Memoirs and observations typographical, physical, mathematical, mechanical, natural, civil, and ecclesiastical, made in a late journey through the empire of China, and published in several letters particularly upon the Chinese pottery and varnishing, the silk and other manufactures, the pearl fishing, the history of plants and animals, description of their cities and publick works, number of people, their language, manners and commerce, their habits, oeconomy, and government, the philosophy of Confucius, the state of Christianity : with many other curious and useful remarks / by Louis Le Compte ... ; translated from the Paris edition, and illustrated with figures.

LETTER V. To the Marquis de TORSI, Secre∣tary of State for Foreign Affairs.

Of the peculiar Character of the Chinese Nation, its Antiquity, Nobility, Manners, and its good and bad Qualities.

My Lord,

SEeing in the Employment wherewith the King hath honoured you, and which you do alrea∣dy discharge with so much Wisdom, nothing can contribute more to promote you to that high pitch of Perfection, that all Europe expects from you, than the exact Knowledge of the Manners and Genius of Foreigners, I made account that by ordering me to write to you concerning the Empire of China, you did particularly desire to learn what was the Genius of its Inhabitants.

It is true, that to judge of the future by preceding Reigns, such Informations would perhaps stand you in no stead, Hitherto France hath had nothing to do with that People, and Nature seems not to have pla∣ced them at such a distance from us, but only intirely

to separate them from our Interests. But under the Reign of Lewis the Great, for whom Nature her self hath so often changed her Laws, is there any thing impossible? Nay, will not Heaven, which seems to have employed all Nations to make him Renowned, oblige China, as proud and haughty as it is, to con∣tribute something to his Glory?

It is, according to all Human Probability, under your Ministry, My Lord, that we shall behold the most flourishing and mighty Empire of the West, u∣nite it self with the most puissant Realm in all Europe. And perhaps, if it had not been for this fa∣tal War, the dire Consequences of which have made themselves be felt as far as the Extremities of the Uni∣verse, you would e're this have given Audience to the Envoys of a Prince, who never acknowledged any o∣ther Sovereign besides himself in the World. This Negotiation, so glorious for you, and so much con∣ducing to the Establishment of Religion, which the Iniquity of the Times hath hitherto interrupted, may be hereafter set afoot again; and it is on purpose to dispose and incline you to the same, that I presume to take the liberty, My Lord, to let you understand the Character of those who are to be employed there∣in.

The Chineses are so Ancient in the World, that it fares with them as to their Original, as with great Rivers whose Source can scarce be discovered. It is necessary for that purpose, to look back farther then all our Prophane Histories; and that very Time ob∣served by the Vulgar, is not so long to verifie their Chronology.

It is very true, the Vulgar History of that Grand Monarchy, is not only dubious, but manifestly false besides, for it computes Forty thousand years since the Foundation of the Empire, but that wherein all Knowing and Learned Men agree, is so much in

vogue, so well circumstantiated, established by so con∣stant a Tradition, that one cannot call it in question among them, without passing for Ridiculous, and as they themselves express it, for Heretical.

According to this History, which none of their Learned Men ever questioned, China hath had its Kings for above Four thousand years, that have con∣tinued to this present Time without any Interruption. The same Family hath not been always seated upon the Throne, there hath been Twenty two of them severally, that hath produced Two hundred thirty six Emperors. Several Doctors carry this Monarchy back Six hundred years higher yet, but, altho' their Opinion be very probable, yet may we nevertheless stick to the first. And this is the thing that makes the Grandeur and Nobility of this Empire plainly to ap∣pear, since Five or Six hundred years, more or less, does not produce any notable diminution in its Antiqui∣ty.

Certainly, after all the Inquiries and Examinations that have been made into this Chronology, it is no longer left to our Liberty to doubt of it, than of the Histories that are the most authentickly received a∣mongst us: And it ought so much the rather to be believed, forasmuch as it was incapable of admitting any Alteration from Foreigners; forasmuch as it was always currant amongst the knowing Men of the Country, for true, sure, and uncontestable, for ha∣ving been written in a natural, plain uneffected Stile, that carries with it that Air of Verity that ever per∣swades: And because Confucius, esteemed for his great Capacity, Sincerity and Uprightness, never doubted of it; nay, and did even establish his whole Do∣ctrine thereupon, Five hundred and fifty years before the Birth of our Saviour, because his Books are very conformable to the Holy Scripture, in reference to the Age of the first Men; for they assure us that ••ohi

reigned an hundred and fifty years; Chinnum, an hun∣dred and forty; Hoamti, an hundred and eleven; Yao, an hundred and eighteen, and so for the rest, always decreasing, conformable to what Holy Writ teaches us. In a word, the Eclipses observed at that time, must needs happen in effect; which they could not know, but by observation, and not by any Calculati∣ons that were not extant enough: All this perswades us that there is little certainty in the Prophane Histo∣ry of the World, if we can reasonably doubt of that of China.

In a word, this Empire was involved in the Com∣mon Fate of all others, whose Origin is still little con∣siderable. It seems probable that the Children, or Grand children of Noah, disperst themselves into A∣sia, and at length penitrated as far as this part of Chi∣na, that is most Westerly; which is called at this day Chansi and Chensi. They lived at the beginning in Families, and the Kings were Fathers, to whom a long continuance of years, abundance of Flocks, and other Country Pastoral richness added some authority.

Fohi was the first that laid the Foundation of the Monarchy; his Wisdom, Discretion, his good Mo∣rals, Power, and Reputation, which his great Age had acquired him, made them give ear to him, as to an Oracle: He regulated all Private, as well as Po∣litick and Religious Matters; insomuch that the State became in a very flourishing Condition in a short time, his Subjects possessed the Province of Honan at first, and some years after all the Lands and Territories that are extended as far as the South Sea.

It is probable that the Chineses, from their very o∣riginal, did look upon themselves as something more than other Men, like to those Princes, who as soon as they are born, discover a certain natural loftiness that ever distinguisheth them from the Vulgar. Whe∣ther it was that the neighbouring Kingdoms were

barbarous, or inferiour to them in point of Wisdom, I don't know; but at that very time they laid down a Maxim of State amongst themselves, To have no Com∣merce with Foreigners and Strangers, but just so much as should be necessary to receive their Homages. Neither did they court and seek after these Badges of Sovereignty out of a Spirit of Ambition, but whereby to have an occasion to prescribe to other People of the World Laws and Constitutions of perfect Government.

So that when any one amongst their Tributaries failed to appear at the time appointed, they did not oblige him by open Force to submit, but on the con∣trary had Compassion on him. What do we lose by it, say they, if he still remain barbarous? since he is so averse to Wisdom, he needs to blame no body but himself as often as he shall fail in his Duty through Passion or Blind∣ness.

This grave Policy acquired the Chineses so great a Reputation, that throughout all the Indies, all Tartary and Persia lookt upon them as the Oracles of the World; yea, and the People of Iapan had such an high Conceit of them, that when St. Xavier brought the Faith amongst them (altho' China at that time came short of her pristine Probity) one of the great Reasons they objected against the good Man, was, That a Nation so Wise, so intelligent, had not yet embra∣ced it.

But this piece of Policy that induced them to dif∣ference themselves from others, which at first might probably be a profitable Maxim, degenerated after∣wards into Pride. They lookt upon themselves as a chosen elect People, that Heaven had produced in the Center of the Universe to give them a Law; a Peo∣ple only capable to Instruct, Civilize, and Govern Nations. They fansied other Men but as Dwarfs, and pitiful Monsters, that had been the Out-casts in∣to the Extremities of the Earth, as the Dross and Off-scouring

of Nature; whereas the Chineses placed in the middle of the World, had alone received from God Almighty, a rational Form and Shape, and a true Size. Their Ancient Maps are filled with such like Figures, and a great many Emblems apt to in∣spire that Disdain they shew'd of all Mankind.

But perceiving the Europeans instructed in all sorts of Sciences, they were strucken with Astonishment. How can it possibly be, said they, that a People so far re∣mote from us, should have any Wit or Capacity? They have never perused our Books; they were never modelled by our Laws, and yet they speak, discourse, and argue aright as we do.

Our Workmanship, as Stuffs, Clocks, Watches, Mathematical Instruments, and such like Curiosities, surprised them still more; for they imagined that dex∣trous and expert Artificers were no where to be met with but in China. Then they began to understand that we were not so barbarous as they imagined; and said in a joking way, We supposed all other People blind, and that Nature had bestowed Eyes upon none but Chine∣ses: that is not universally true, if the Europeans do not see so clearly as we, they have at least one Eye apiece.

I have taken notice of some Frenchmen so moved at this ridiculous Vanity, that they were not Masters of their Passion; they would possibly have done better to have laught at it (at least the Chineses deserve Ex∣cuse) till that time, they had seen none but Indians and Tartars, and they beheld ••••e West at a distance, as we at present behold the Terra Australis Incognita, and Forests of Canada: Now if at 300 Leagues di∣stance from Quebec we found Iroquian Mathematici∣ans, or Learned Alkonkins, that could discover to us a New Philosophy, more clear, comprehensive, and more perfect than ours, we should be no less blame-worthy than the Chineses, for preferring our selves to that People, and for having hitherto termed them Barbarians.

Abating this Pride, you must confess that the Chi∣nese Nation hath been endued with rare Qualities; with a great deal of Politeness in practising the World, with great Sense and Regularity in their Bu∣siness, with much Zeal for the Publick Good, True and Just Idea's of Government, with a Genius, mean indeed as to Speculative Sciences, but yet right and sure in Morality, which they have always preserved very conformable to Reason.

The People principally applied themselves to the Education of Children in their Families; they e∣steemed Agriculture above all other things; they were Laborious to excess, loving and understanding Com∣merce and Trading perfectly well. Judges and Go∣vernors of Cities affected an outside Gravity, Sobrie∣ty at their Tables, Moderation in House-keeping, and Equity in all their Judgments, that gain'd the Love and Respect from all the People in general. The Emperor placed his Happiness in nothing more than to procure it for his Subjects, and lookt upon himself not so much a King of a Grand State, as a Father of a Numerous Family.

This Character of China, My Lord, that I have gi∣ven you, is not flattering, but faithfully deduced from its own History, that furnishes us with an infinite number of Examples of the conspicuous Wisdom that hath been so long the Soul that informs its Govern∣ment. 'Tis true indeed, the Civil Wars, the Weak, or Wicked Kings and Foreign Dominion, have from time to time disturbed this goodly Order: But be it that the Fundamental Laws of the State were excel∣lent, or that the People from their Cradles were in∣dued with happy Dispositions, is not material; but it is most certain, these Fatal and Troublesom Intervals did not long continue; if so be they were but never so little lest to their own disposal, they took to their former Conduct again: And we see at this very day,

in the midst of Corruption, which the Domestick Troubles and Commerce with Tartars have introdu∣ced, some Footsteps of their ancient Probity remain∣ing.

I do not pretend, My Lord, to enlarge any further upon this Subject. I know very well that it is a Letter that I have the honour to write to you, and not a History; besides, they are about Translating into French that History which the Chineses themselves have left behind them, and I am confident it will please, by its Novelty and Extraordinary Matters it contains.

I content my self in this place to draw you out the Portraiture of the present State of China, in relation to the Manners and Customs of its People; I could decipher it in a few words, by telling you that they live there as we do in Europe. Avarice, Ambition, and Love, bear a great stroke in all Transactions. They Cozen and Cheat in Traffick; Injustice reigns in Sovereign Courts; Intrigues busie both Princes and Courtiers. In the mean time Persons of Quality take so many measures to conceal Vice; and the Out∣works are so well guarded, that if a Stranger be not careful to be instructed concerning Affairs to the bot∣tom, he imagines that every thing is perfectly well regulated. That is the thing wherein the Chineses re∣semble the Europeans. Now I will here shew you wherein they differ from them. Their Countenance, Air, Language, Disposition, Civilities, Manners and Behaviour, are not only different from ours, but also front those we may observe in all other Nations of the World.

Without doubt, My Lord, you may have taken no∣tice that the Figures that are painted upon the Porce∣lain Dishes and Cabinets that come from China; our Pictures in Europe do always flatter us, but those of China make them maimed and ridiculous. They are

not so ill-favoured as they make themselves; it is true, they do not agree in the Idea that we frame to our¦selves of real Beauty. They would have a Man big, tall, and gross; they would have him have a broad Fore∣head, Eyes little and flat, a short Nose, great Ears, a Mouth of a midling size, a long Beard, a black Hair. That curious Feature, that lively Aspect, that state∣ly and noble Gate and Deportment the French so much esteem, does not at all please them. That is an handsome Man that fills an Elbow-Chair, that by his Gravity and healthful Constitution can make a good huffing Figure. As for their Colour, they are natu∣rally as fair as we, especially towards the North; but being the Men take no care of themselves, travel much, wear upon their Head nothing but a little Bon∣net not proper to defend their Face from the Sun-beams, they are commonly as Tawny as the Portu∣guese in the Indies: The People also of the Provinces of Canton and Iannon, by reason of the excessive Heat, working half naked, are of a Dun Complexion.

As much as the Men neglect themselves in this particular, so much do the Women take all the care imaginable to preserve themselves. I am not sure if painting be usual with them; but some body told me that they rub their Faces every Morning with a sort of white Meal, more fit to ternish than to inhance their Beauty. They have all of them little Eyes, and short Noses; excepting that, they come nothing short of European Ladies, but their Modesty, so natural to them, doth infinitely set off their Handsomness; a little Collar of white Sattin fastened to a Vest, keeps them light, and covers their Neck all over. Their Hands are always hid in long Sleeves; they tread soft∣ly and gingerly, with their Eyes upon the Ground, their Head on one side, and a Man would imagine, to look on them, that they were a Company of Nuns or Devotees by Profession, set apart, and sequestred

from the World, only taken up in the Service of God. So that it is observable, That Custom hath many times more power to perplex and trouble the fair Sex, than the most austere and rigid Vertue: Nay, and it were a thing to be desired, that Christianity were able to obtain from Christian Ladies here, what the Practice of the World hath for so many Ages inspired into the Idolatrous Chineses.

This Modesty nevertheless does not hinder them from being possest with Womanish Whimseys; the more they are confined, the less they love Solitude; they dress themselves gorgeously, and spend all the Morning in making themselves fine, thinking they may be seen in the day time, altho' perhaps they are not by any one but their own Domesticks. Their Head-dress, which usually consists of several Locks buckled up, interlaced with Flowers of Gold and Silver, is somewhat odd. But I neither can, nor will, My Lord, give you a particular Description of it, because I know you do not expect it from me. However, I am perswaded if People should see the Model of them in France, they would go near to be tempted to quit that extravagant Company of Orna∣ments they use, to dress their Heads a-la-mode▪ de Chi∣neses.

The Ladies wear, as Men do, a long Sattin or Cloath of Gold Vest, red, blue, or green, according to their particular Phansie; the elder sort habit them¦selves in black, or purple; they wear besides that, a kind of Surtout, the Sleeves whereof, extream wide, trail upon the Ground, when they have no occasion to hold them up. But that which distinguisheth them from all the Women in the World, and does in a manner make a particular Species of them, is the lit∣tleness of their Feet, and here lyes the more essential point of their Beauty. That is miraculous, and can∣not be comprehended; this Affectation proceeds some∣times

even to that Excess that would pass for Folly, did not an extravagant and ancient Custom (which in the business of the Mode, evermore prevails over the most natural Idea's) oblige them to follow the Streams, and comply with the Custom of the Country.

So soon as ever the Girls are born, the Nurses take care to tye their Feet extream hard for fear of grow∣ing; Nature that seems to be disposed for this Tor∣ment, does more easily buckle to it than one could imagine; nay, one does not perceive that their Health is impaired thereby. Their Shoes of Sattin, embroi∣dered with Gold, Silver, and Silk, are extraordinary neat; and tho' they be very little, yet do they study to let them be seen as they walk; for walk they do (which one would not be apt to believe) and would walk all day long by their good will, if they had liberty to go abroad. Some have been perswaded that it was an Invention of the ancient Chineses, who to bring Women under a necessity of keeping within Doors, brought little Feet in fashion. I have more than once inquired about it of the Chinese themselves, that never heard nothing of it. These are idle Tales, says one of them smiling, our Fore-fathers knew Women but too well, as we do, to believe that in retrenching half of their Feet, they could be deprived of the power▪ of walking, and of longing to see the World.

If People would have given themselves the trouble to have consulted the Relations concerning the Coun∣tenance and Physiognomy of the China Women; it would not have been so easie a matter to impose upon the easiness of the Ladies of Paris, who entertain'd a poor French Woman the last year, giving her all manner of Relief, because she said she was an Out∣landish Woman, and of one of the best Families in China. This Accident surprised all Curious Persons, and the Marquis de Croisi intimated to me that I would do him a kindness in examining the truth of the story.

Charity, added he, is no less acceptable to God, al∣tho' it be misplaced upon Objects that deserve it not. If the Business were only a bare Mistake in Matter of Alms, one might, without any Scruple of Consci∣ence, leave those in an Errour whom one deceives under a false pretence of Necessity. But this Maid saith she was an Heathen, she is exhorted long since to be Converted; she conceives already, or at least makes as if she did conceive our Mysteries; in fine, she desires to embrace our Religion; and they are just upon the point to baptize her. If she be a Chi∣nese, well and good; and we have cause to admire Divine Providence from bringing this Soul from so remote a Place, to be admitted into the Bosom of the Church; but if she be a French Woman, who probably hath been baptized from her Infancy, this Abuse of the Sacrament that she's a going to receive a second time, is a Sacriledge deserving the severest Punishment; of which Sacriledge, those that assist her become Guilty themselves.

I was already much prepossessed with an ill Opi∣nion of this pretended Chinese; but, besides the order of the Marquis de Croissi, I thought it would be good to sift out the Business to the bottom, to undeceive those that were any ways concern'd therein. When she understood that I would come and see her, she was not a little perplext. He is not a China Father, says she, but one of the Indian Missionaries, whom the Revolution of Siam hath made to come back. Nay, they had much ado to find her, when I appeared; they sought for her all up and down a good while, and at length unkennell'd her, and perswaded her to make Appearance.

So soon as I saw her, I had no need of Examinati∣on, the Features of her Face, her Gate, her Feet, her whole Behaviour betray'd her. She feigned in speaking French, that she did not well understand the

Language; but, besides the placing of the words, which she endeavoured not to pronounce articulately, was altogether natural, which is scarce ever got by Strangers, she did also pronounce with a great deal of firmness several Letters not in use with the Chineses, which it is impossible for them to express.

After the first Discourses, I demanded of what Pro∣vince, and what Family of China she was, and by what strange Adventure she was at such a great Di∣stance from her Country? I am of Pekin it self, says she, the Metropolis of the Empire, born in the Emperor's Palace, brought up at Court, and Daughter to Prince Co∣ronne: That is to say, who does dispose Sovereignly every thing; more a Master, and more powerful than the Emperor himself; whose Pleasures are never in∣terrupted by the Cares of Publick Affairs; who be∣ing little concerned at the good or bad Condition of the Empire, confines all his Ambition to the render∣ing himself happy, and to lead an easie and pleasant Life.

I embarked with my Mother, who had a design to pass into Japan, there to treat of a Marriage for me. In the Passage our Vessel was attacked by an Holland Pi∣rate, that took it, and blew it up; and brought me away Prisoner. However the barbarous Pirate took such care of me, as was capable to sweeten my Captivity, if the loss of my Mother had not reduced me to a Disconsolate Condition, for she died before mine Eyes, and the Representation of so fatal an Accident that lay night and day heavy upon my Spirit, would scarce permit me to reflect upon the many kind Offices he did me.

Nevertheless, my Condition was not so deplorable as I imagined; the victorious Hollander was at length over∣come by a French Privateer; I was a second time a Cap∣tive, and treated by the new Captain with so much harshness, that I was at that very moment apprehensive that my Grief might increase, and that the excess of Miseries that one en∣dure

in this World, is never so great, but one may become still more miserable. This Voyage was to me the longest, most dangerous, and accompanied with sorrow and bitter∣ness. At length we came ashoar at a place I know not; they brought me out of the Ship, and after they had drag∣ged me through several Provinces, they barbarously forsook me, and I found my self destitute, comfortless, and without any support, in the middle of this great City, which I hear called Paris.

'Tis true, Heaven hath not quite forsaken me; the word Pekin, the only word, by which I can make known my Country; and to that purpose did I so often repeat it; hath brought me out of Misery. Some Ladies, at the hearing of this word were moved with Compassion, took me into their House, and have ever since treated me with so much Cha∣rity, that, I do not know if I ought to complain of Fate that hath conducted me into so good hands.

She had, indeed, some cause to be well pleased with her Lot, much better in effect, than she could naturally expect. They treated her as a Maid of some Noble Family; nay, it was an Hundred pound to a penny but they had given her the quality of Princess Couron∣né, a Name much better known in France than China, where this Dignity is still in fieri. They told me more∣over that divers Persons were impatient to do her a kindness, and that Monsieur N. one of our most fa∣mous Writers, had already Composed three extraor∣dinary eloquent Letters in her Name; one for the Emperor, another for Prince Couronné, and the third for some other Prince of her Family. He hath, with∣out doubt, what he deserved from the Persons that ingaged him in it; yet I do not believe that China will ever thank him for it.

For my part, My Lord, I do confess that the bare recital of this Adventure appear'd to me somewhat fa∣bulous, and carries with it such a Romantick Air that is capable of undeceiving those, whom an excess of

Charity had not quite blinded. Prince Couronné is a Chimera, that hath not the least appearance of Truth in it. The Birth of a Maid in a Palace where there is none but Eunuchs, is still more hard to be belei∣ved. The Hollanders are not at War with the Chineses, and it is not their best way to fall out with them, by Assaulting their Ships.

The Chinese Dames, that scarce ever stir out of their Houses, do not care for undertaking long Voyages at Sea: And the Match they were going to mannage is no more likely than that of a Princess of France that some body might feign to Embark at Brest, to Sail in∣to the Indies to espouse some Mandarin of Siam.

Besides, We know all the Vessels that we have ta∣ken from the Hollanders, as well as those that are arri∣ved in France from the Indies: we know the Captains of them, we know their Prizes, their Engagements, their Adventures, and yet we hear not one word of what our Chinese relates. Now if she be so unfortunate as to be found in the Streets of Paris miserable, forlorn, and unknown, she ought not so much to lay the fault upon our French People, as upon her ill Fortune that took no care to place her better in this World.

But to Convince all those who were present at our Interview, I put divers questions to her about the principle Cities in China; I examined her concern∣ing the Money, their Writing, the Characters and Language of the Country. She told me she had of∣ten travelled from Pekin to Nankin in less then Three days, notwithstanding it is above Three hundred Leagues from one to another; that they used Gold Money, altho' Gold is not currant through all the Empire, but as precious Stones are in Europe; that the Silver Coin was stamp as ours is, round, flat, bearing the Emperors Arms, with divers Figures according to the Custom of Eastern Nations, notwithstanding the Silver hath no regular Figure, they cast it into Ingots,

they reduce it to what form they please without Arms, Order, or Ornament, they clip into great Pieces, as occasion serves; and it is only by weight, not by the Emperor's Mark that they know its value.

I writ down some Chinese Characters; for she had boasted that she could read, a Pèrson of her quality durst not say the contrary; but the Misfortune was, she mistook her self, and took the Paper at the wrong end, boldly reading the Letters, turn'd upside down, as if they had been right: upon the whole, that which she pronounced had no manner of relation to the ge∣nuine Sense of the Writing. At last I spoke Chinese to her, and for fear least she might avoid the difficul∣ty, I acquainted her that I spake the Mandarin Lan∣guage so currant throughout the Empire, which they constantly use at the Court. She was so impudent as to frame ex tempore a wild, ridiculous Gibberish, but so little understood, that it was evident she had not time enough to make it hang well together; so that not being able to understand what I said to her, I should have been sore put to it to explain what she meant, if indeed she did mean any thing.

After this Trial and Examination, she might blush for shame, and ingeniously confess the Imposture; but she still keeps up her Conversation without being con∣cerned, and with such an Air of Confidence that would make any one judge that this China Romance was not the first Story she had made.

I thought, My Lord, that you would be very glad to be acquainted with this; besides that it may af∣ford you some pleasure, it will also serve to let you understand, that the Mind, Countenance, and Beha∣viour of the Chinese Women have no Affinity with those of the Europeans; and that a French Woman must needs be brazen-fac'd, when under the borrow∣ed Name of a Chinese, she pretends to impose upon Per∣sons who have, as long as I have done, seen both Nations.

After this little Digression, you may be willing I should take up my former Discourse again. The Mens Habits, as every where else, are there much different from the Womens; they shave their Head all over, except behind, where they let grow as much Hair as is needful to make a long Tress. They do not use a Hat as we do, but wear continually a Bonnet or a Cap, which Civility forbids p••tting off.

This Bonnet differs according to the different Sea∣sons of the year: That which they use in Summer is in form of a Cone, that is to say, round, and wide below, but short, and strait above, where it termi∣nates in a meer Point. It is lined within with a pretty Sattin, and the top covered with a very fine Mat, ve∣ry much esteemed in the Country. Besides that, they add thereto a great slake of red Silk, that falls round about it, and reaches to the Edges; so that when they walk this Silk flows irregularly on all sides, and the continual Motion of the Head gives it a particular pleasing Grace.

Sometimes in lieu of Silk they wear a sort of long Hair, of a vivid shining red, which Rain does not deface, and is more especially in use amongst Men when they ride. This Hair comes from the Province of Sout-chouen, and grows upon the Legs of certain Cows; its natural Colour is white, but they give it a tincture, that makes it dearer than the finest Silk. In Winter they wear a Plush Cap, bordered with a Sable Fox-skin; the rest is of a curious Sattin, black or purple, covered with a great flake of red Silk, like the Summer Cap. There is nothing more hand∣some than these Caps, which are sold sometimes for Eight or Ten Crowns; but they are so shallow, that they always discover the Ears, which is mighty in∣convenient in the Sun, or upon a Journey. When the Mandarins are in their Formalities, the upper part of the Bonnet hath a Diamond in the Crest, or some other

precious Stone ill cut, yet inchased in a Button of very curious wrought Gold: the others have a huge Tufft, or Button of Stuff, Agate, Crystal, or some other Matter.

Their Habit is long, and convenient enough for Students, but cumbersome for Men on Horseback▪ It consists of a Vest that reaches to the Ground, the Skirts or Sides of which, are folded before one over the other, in such a manner that the uppermost is ex∣tended to the left side, where they fasten it all along, with four or five Gold or Silver Buttons. The Sleeves, that are wide towards the Shoulder, grow straiter and straiter to the Wrist, like the Sleeves of a Priest's Albe, but they do in a manner cover the whole Hand, and leave nothing to be seen but the Fingers ends: They keep the Vest close with a broad silken Sash, whose two ends hang down to the Knees. The Tartars stick an Handkerchief to it on both sides, with a Sheath for a Knife and Fork, and Tooth-pick, a Purse, and other pretty Implements. In Summer their Neck is all bare, which looks very ill, in Winter they cover it with a Collar of Sattin fastened to the Vest, or with a Tip∣pet of Sable or Fox-skin, about three or four Fingers broad, which is fastened before with a Button, which is very decent, and becomes Horsmen wonderfully.

Besides the Vest they put on a kind of Surtout with short wide Sleeves like those of your Baresters Gowns; the Students wear them very long; the Gentlemen, and especially the Tartars, will have them short; and those they use reach no farther than their Pocket-holes: As for their under Garment, they use in Sum∣mer only a single pair of Drawers of white Taffaty, under a very broad and short Shirt of the same Stuff; but in Winter the Shirt is of Linnen, and under it they have Breeches of course Sattin quilted with Cotton, or raw Silk, which is warmer.

All this is natural enough; but perhaps, My Lord,

you will be surprised to hear that the Chineses are al∣ways booted; and when any one renders them a Vi∣sit, if they chance not to have their Boots on, they make them wait till they go fetch them.

We stand in need of this Example to authorize our ancient Custom, but we carried on the Mode far∣ther than they; for we have seen, that the French Men, not satisfied with walking booted along the Streets, armed them with huge jingling Spurs, that nothing might be wanting to the Ornaments of a Gentleman on Horseback; but we are recovered as to this Point, and several others; but the Chineses in all probability, that dote upon Antiquity, will not be cured of it in haste; it is indeed, in respect of them, an extravagant piece of Foppery, not to dare to go into the City without their Boots, because they are always carried in a Sedan.

This Mode would be still the more pardonable in Winter; for their Boots being of Silk, and their Boot-hose of a pinked Stuff, lined with Cottons a good inch think, the Leg is thereby well defended against the Cold: But in Summer, where the Heat is excessive, no body living besides the Chineses, for the keeping up of an Air of Gravity, were able to endure to be at that rate in a kind of a Stove from Morning to Evening: And what is more strange, your People that work scarce ever use them, either by reason of the incon∣venience, or to save charges.

The form of these Boots is somewhat different from ours, for they have neither heel nor top; when they ride any long Journey, they are made of obso∣lete, old fashion'd Leather, of thick, black, pinked Cotton; but in the City they usually wear them of Sattin, with a course border of Plush or Velvet upon the Knee. The People in publick, and Persons of Quality within Doors, are instead of Shoes, shod with Pattins of black Linnen, or some very pretty

Silk, very convenient; they stick close to the Foot of themselves, by a Border that covers the Heel, with∣out needing to try them before.

They have not introduced the use of the Muff and Gloves into China; but the Sleeves of the Vest being very long, they draw up their Hand into them when it is cold to keep it warm. I know not if I may make hold, My Lord, to add another Custom, which is very ancient among the Chineses, and by no means suitable to the French Politeness; their Doctors, and other Learned Men, let their Nails grow excessively, insomuch that in some they are little shorter than their Fingers; it obtains amongst them not only for an Ornament, but a Distinction, by which it may be known, that by their Condition they are separated from Mechanick Arts, and are wholly addicted to Sciences. In short, since they affect a starched Gra∣vity in all their ways, which conciliates Respect, they imagine with themselves that a long Beard might con∣tribute thereto, so they suffer it to grow; now if they have not much, it is not for want of Cultivating: But Nature in this point has been very niggardly, there is not a Man of them that does not envy the Europeans, whom they look upon in this respect as the greatest Men in the World.

Here you have, My Lord, a particular Description, that may in some measure acquaint you with the Deportment and Aspect of the Chineses; I do not be∣lieve, says a Spaniard to me one day, that they ought to be offended at it in France; In all likelyhood those Modes formerly reigned amongst you; for tell me, is there any one of them, that hath escaped the fertile Invention of the French; in Fourteen hundred years, which is as long as the Monarchy hath continued, there have been above Four∣teen hundred Modes. So that perhaps there is not that Habit in the World, that should seem strange to you; and all that we can say, when any Mode that is presented to

you, displeases you, is, that it is out of fashion.

'Tis true, the Chineses are not so sickle as we, but they have carried on things to another extremity: for rather than forsake their ancient Habit, they re∣newed a Cruel War against the Tartars; I, and the greatest part of them had as live lose their Head, as let their Hair be cut, of all the Excesses in point of Mode, none is more uncouth and phantastical than that, and how ridiculous soever the Chineses may fear to look, after they have parted with an Head of Hair, yet they might be convinced that a Man whose Head is lop'd off, is worse disfigured. However, we must grant that the Constancy of this People is admirable, for when the Tartars attacked them, they had kept their Habit for above Two thousand years, which can be ascribed to nothing but the good order observed in the Empire, the Government of which hath always been uniform, where the Laws have been exactly ob∣served in the least Punctilio's.

Notwithstanding I am perswaded these ways would not please all our French People; nay, and the Modes, of which we are so fond, do not appear so handsome to the Chineses as we imagine; but above all, the Pe∣riwig does strangely run in their Mind; and they look upon us as a sort of People, who, for want of a Beard, would get an Artificial one clapt to the Chin, that should reach to the Knees. This Phantastical Head-dress, say they, and that prodigious heap of cur∣led Hair, are proper upon the Stage for a Man that would represent the Devil; But has one the shape of a Man when he is thus disguised? Insomuch that the Chinese Politeness will go near upon this Article alone to araign us of Barbarity.

They have likewise much ado to be perswaded, that long Shanks discovered, with a Stocken drawn strait, and narrow Breeches, look handsome, because they are accustomed to an Air of Gravity that gives them other

Conceptions. They would sooner be reconciled with the Figure of a Magistrate shaven, without a Periwig, who should in his Lawyers Gown go booted, than with all this Attire that makes our Cavaliers have a fine Shape, and easie and fine Gate, a quick and dis∣ingaged Carriage; which will by no means go down with them. Thus Ridiculousness pleases, and one is often times offended at Real Prettiness, according as Prejudice or Custom have differently changed the I∣magination; there is notwithstanding in all these Modes some other intrinsick real Beauty, which na∣ked Simplicity, which Nature in her Innocence, and exempt from Passion, have inspired into Men, for the Necessity and Conveniency of Life.

Altho' Persons of Quality observe exactly all the Formalities and Decencies suitable to their State, and never appear uncovered in Publick, how great soever the heat be, yet in Private, and among their Friends they assume a freedom even to a fault; they ever and anon quit their Bonnet, Surtout, Vest, and Shirt, reserving nothing but a single pair of Drawers of white Taffaty, or Transparent Linnen. That is the more surprising, because they condemn all Naked∣ness in Pictures, and are even offended that our En∣gravers represent Men with their Arms, Thighs, and Shoulders uncovered; they seem to be in the right for being displeased at the unchristian Licence of our Workmen; but yet they are ridiculous to blame that upon a piece of Linnen, or Paper, which they practise themselves with so much liberty and undecency in their own proper Persons.

As for the Vulgar, they transgress in that respect all the Bounds of Modesty, especially in the Southern Provinces, where Water-men, and certain other Han∣dicrafs-men, are impudent to the highest degree; and intruth the most barbarous Indians, notwithstanding the Climate seems to excuse them, appear'd to me in this

respect much less barbarous than the Chineses; almost all the Artificers and inferiour Tradesmen go along the Streets with single Drawers, without Cap, Stock∣ings, or Shirt, which makes them much tanned, and of a swarthy hue. In the Northern Provinces they are a little more reserved; and the Cold, in spight of their Teeth, makes them modest, and keep within bounds.

After having described to you the Modes of China, perhaps you may be desirous, My Lord, that I should speak of their Stuffs. Here is what I have observed of them in general: Their Silk, without question, is the finest in the World; they make of it in many Pro∣vinces, but the best and fairest is to be found in that of Tchekiam, because the Soil is very proper for Mul∣berry Trees, and because the Air is indued with a de∣gree of Heat and Moisture, more conformable to the Worms that make it. Every body deals in it, and the Traffick of it is so very great, that this Province alone is able to supply all China, and the greatest part of Eu∣rope.

Yet the finest and fairest Silks are wrought in the Province of Nankin, the Rendevouz of almost all the good Workmen. It is there that the Emperor furnisheth himself with the Silks spent in the Palace, and with those he presents to the Lords of the Court; the Silks of Canton notwithstanding, are valued above all amongst Strangers; and the Silks of this Province are also more saleable, and go off better than those of all the other Provinces of China.

Altho' all these Silks have some resemblance to ours, yet the Workmanship hath something in it that makes a difference. I have there seen Plush, Velvet, Tissa of Gold, Sattin, Taffaty, Crapes, and several others, of which I do not so much as know the name in France; that which I do not so much as know the name in France; that which is the most currant amongst them is called Touanze; it is a sort of Sattin, stronger, but not so

glossy as ours, sometimes smooth, and sometimes di∣stinguished by Flowers, Birds, Trees, Houses, and sha∣dy Groves.

These Figures are not raised upon the ground by a mixture of raw Silk, as our Workmen are used to do in Europe, which makes our Work not so durable; all the Silk of that is twisted, and the Flowers are distin∣guished only by the difference of Colours, and shadow∣ing, when they mix Gold or Silver with it, it does much resemble our Brocado, or flower'd Silk, but their Gold and Silver is wrought a way that is parti∣cular to them alone; for whereas in Europe we draw the Gold as fine as possibly it can be twist∣ed with the thred, the Chineses to save the matter, or because they did not bethink themselves of this Trick, satisfie themselves to gild or silver over a long Leaf of Paper, which they afterward cut into little Scrowls, wherein they wrap the Silk.

There is a great deal of Cunning in that; but this gilding will not last long, Water, or even Moistness it self, will ternish the Splendor of it quickly: yet for all that, when the Pieces come out of the Workmans bands, they are very fine, and one would take them for valuable Pieces. Sometimes they are contented only to put into the Piece these little Scrowls of gild∣ed Paper, without rolling them upon the Thred, and then the Figures, altho' pretty and finely turn'd, do not last so long by far; and the Silk thus flowered is at a lower rate.

Amongst the different Figures they represent, the Dragon is the most ordinary: There be two sorts of them; one, to which they make five Claws, called Lom, is only used upon the Stuffs designed for the Em∣peror: that is his Arms, which Tobi, Founder of the Empire, first took for himself and Successors, above Four thousand years ago. The second sort of Dragons hath but four Claws, and is named Mam. The Empe∣ror

Vouvam, who reigned Two thousand eight hun∣dred thirty two years ago, ordain'd that every body might bear the same; and since that time, the use of it is grown common.

They make use of another kind of Stuff in Summer, which the Chineses call Cha; it is not so close, nor hath so good a gloss as our Taffaty, but much more substan∣tial; altho' several People desire to have it smooth and even, yet most wear it powdered with great Flowers pierced through, and cut into Flowers like your Eng∣lish Lace; and many times these hollowings are in such a great number, that one can scarce discern the body of the Silk. These Summer Garments are ex∣traordinary convenient, and wonderful neat, so that all the Persons of Quality use them: Besides, the Taffa∣ty is not dear; a whole Piece, enough to make a long Vest and Surtout, will not amount to above 2 Guinea's.

The third is a particular sort of Taffaty, that serves for Drawers, Shirts, Linings, they call it Tcheouze; it is close, and withal so plyant, that it is vain to fold and double it, and squeeze it with your hand; you can scarce ever rumple it. It is sold by weight; and is is so serviceable, that they wash it as they do Lin∣nen, without losing much of its former lustre.

Besides the ordinary Silk of which I but now spoke, which we know in Europe, China hath of another sort, which you meet with in the Province of Chanton. The Worms from which they take it are wild, they go to seek for them in the Woods; and I am not sure, whe∣ther or no they breed of them in Houses. This Silk is of a grey Colour, void of any gloss; so that those who are not well acquainted with it, take the Stuffs that are made of it for red Linnen, or for one of the coursest Druggets; yet for all that they infi∣nitely value it, and it costs more than Sattin too, they call them Kien-Tcbeou; they will endure a long time; tho' strong and close, yet do they not fret; they wash

them as they do Linnen; and the Chineses assure us, that Spots cannot spoil them, and that they do not so much as take Oil it self.

Wooll is very common, and withal very cheap, e∣specially in the Provinces of Chensi and Chansi, and Sout∣chouen, where they feed abundance of Flocks, yet do not the Chineses make Cloath. That of Europe, where∣with the English furnish them, is highly esteemed, but by reason they sell it much dearer than the finest Silks, they buy but little of it. The Mandarins make themselves studying Gowns for the Winter of a kind of course Russet, for want of better Cloath. As for Druggets, Serges, and Tammies, we scarce meet with better than theirs; the Bonze's Wives do com∣monly work them, because the Bonze's make use of them themselves; there is a great Trade driven of them every where in the Empire.

Besides Cotton Linnen, that is very common, they use also for the Summer nettle Linnen for long Vests; but that which is the most valued, and is to be found no where else, is called Copou: because it is made of a Plant that the People of the Country call Co, found in the Province of Fokien.

It is a kind of creeping Shrub, whole Leaves are much bigger than Ivy-leaves; they are round, smooth, green within, whitish, and cottony, or downy, on the out∣side; they let them grow and spread along the Fields. There be some of them as thick as your finger, which is plyable, and cottony as its Leaves are. When it begins to dry, they make the sheaves of it to rot in Water, as they do Flax and Hemp; they always peel off the first skin, which they throw away; but of the second, which is much more fine and delicate, they divide it by the hand into very slender and very small Filaments, without beating, or spinning it, they make that Linnen of which I spake; it is transparent, pret∣ty fine, but so cool and light, that one would think he had nothing on his back.

All Persons of Quality make long Vests of it du∣ring the excessive Heat, with a Surtout of Cha. In the Spring and Autumn they put on Kien-tcheou, and Touanze in Winter, that is to say, course Sattin, or flowered Silk. Grave Persons desire to have it even, others wear it flowered; but no body, except the Man∣darins in the Assemblies, or upon certain Solemn Vi∣sits, use Silk flowered with Gold or Silver. The Vul∣gar, that usually habit themselves in course Linnen dyed blue, or black, quilt it with Cotton, or line it with Sheepskin during the cold weather: But great Persons line their Vests and Surtouts with the noble Skins of Sable or Ermyn, Fox or Lamb: They use al∣so for the same purpose Plush and Petit-gris.

Because Ermyn is very rare in China, they content themselves only to border their Vests and extre∣mity of their Sleeves with it; that which I have seen did not appear to me to be of a fair white.

Sable is pretty well known in France, but much less common there than in China, where all the conside∣rable Mandarins wear it: One Skin only of a Foot long, and between four and six Inches broad (for the * 1.1 Animal is but small) will sometimes cost Ten Crowns: But when one chooseth some of the finest for a compleat Habit, the whole Lining of a Vest will cost between 5 and 6000 Livres; yet one may have a pretty handsome one for 200 Pistols.

Fox-skins are likewise much used, those who would be magnificent take nothing but the Belly of this A∣nimal, where the Hair is long, fine, and softest; and of a great number of small pieces patched together, they compose an entire Lining, which for the Vest and Surtout comes to a matter of five or six hundred Livres.

There are also several other sorts of Furs that Tar∣tary perhaps supplies them withal, which the Mandarins

make use of to sit upon the Ground, especially at the Palace when they wait, and expect the time of their Audience. They put some of them also under the Quilt, not only to heat the Bed, but also to take a∣way its dampness. Besides, there is another Fur of a particular Species, that is perfectly handsome and fine, the Hair of it is long, soft, very thick set; it is of a pretty whitish grey mixt with black, striped with black and yellow Lists as those of Tigres; they make great Winter Gowns of them to wear in the City, putting the Fur on the out-side, so that when the Mandarins are thick and short, (which is very common with them) besides two Furs underneath for the Vest and Surtout, when, I say, they have put on their back one of these furr'd Gowns with long Hair, they differ but a little from Bears, or from the Animal of whom they borrowed the Skin; altho' in this Condi∣tion they think themselves to be very gentile, and to make a graceful Figure.

Of all the Furrings the most common are Lambskins * 1.2. They are white, downy, and very warm, but burthensome, and at first of a strong smell, in a manner like those greezy Gloves that smell, in a manner like those greezy Gloves that smell of Oil: I wonder they bring not up the Mode in France; those who delight in slender fine Shapes, would not submit to it, yet otherwise there is nothing more gentile, nor more convenient for Winter.

Upon the whole, if great Caution be not used, all these Furs are easily spoiled, especially in hot and moist Countries, Worms breed in them, and the Hair falls off: To prevent them, the Chineses, so soon as e∣ver the Summer approaches, expose them to the Air for some days, when it is fair and dry Weather; then they beat them with Sticks, or shake them often, to get out the Dust; and when they have enclosed them in huge earthen Pots, into which they throw Corns of

Pepper, and other bitter Drugs, they stop it up very close, and there let them lye till the beginning of Winter.

Besides their usual Garments, there are yet two sorts that deserve to be known: They put on one to defend them from the Rain; for the Chineses, who de∣light in Travelling, spare for no cost to travel com∣modiously; they are made of a course Taffaty, crust∣ed over with a condensed Oil, which is in lieu of Wax, which being once well dried, makes the Stuff green, transparent, and extraordinary gentile: They make Bonnets of it, Vests, and Surtouts, that resist the Rain for some time; but it gets through at last, unless the Garment be a choice one, and carefully prepared. The Boots are of Leather, but so little that the Stockings are spoiled at the Knee, except one be a Horse∣back, like the Tartars, with their Legs doubled up, and their Stirrups extream short.

The Mourning Habit hath also something odd in it, The Bonnet, Vests, Surtout, Stockings and Boots are made of white Linnen, and from the Prince to the most inferiour Handicrafts-man, none dare wear any of another colour. In close Mourning the Bonnet seems phantastick, and very difficult to be represented; it is of a red and very clear Canvas Cloath, not much unlike the Canvas we use for packing up Commodi∣ties. The Vest is kept close with a Girdle of Canvas; the Chineses in this posture do at the beginning affect a careless Behaviour, and Grief and Sorrow seems paint∣ed all over the outward Man; but all being nothing but Ceremony, and Affectation with them, they ea∣sily put on their own Face again; they can Laugh and Cry both with a wind; for I have seen some Laugh immediately after they had shed abundance of Tears over the Tomb of their Fathers.

Perhaps, My Lord, you may have the Curiosity to know after what manner the Missionaries, who labour about the Conversion of the Infidels, are habited; the

Laws, that suffer no Foreign Mode to take place, de∣termined the first Jesuits to take the Garb of the Bonzes at the beginning: But this Garb, though grave and modest enough, was so cried down by the ignorance and irregular Life of those wicked Priests, that that alone was sufficient to deprive us of the Company and Correspondence of honest People.

In effect, nothing was so diametrically opposite to Religion: so that after a long deliberation, they thought it more adviseable to take the Students Habit, which, together with the quality of European Doctor, did ca∣pacitate us to speak to the People with some Authori∣ty, and to be heard by the Mandarins with some re∣spect. From that very time we had free Access every where, and God did so far vouchsafe a Blessing to the Labours of our first Missionaries, that the Gospel in a short time was propagated with considerable Suc∣cess.

But in the late Revolution of the Empire, these Fathers, as well as the Chineses, were forced to go in the Tartarian Fashion, after the manner as I told you. In the Visits made to the Mandarins upon the account of Religion, we could not dispense from wearing a Vest and Surtout of common Silk; but in the House we are clothed in Serge or painted Linnen.

So that, My Lord, preserving as much as lyes in us the Spirit of Poverty suitable to our Condition, we endeavour to become all things to all Men, after the A∣postles example, that we may the more easily win over some to Iesus Christ; being perswaded, that as to a Missionary, the Garment, Diet, Manner of Living, and exterior Customs ought all to be referred to the great Design he proposes to himself, to Convert the whole Earth. A Man must be a Barbarian with Bar∣barians, Polite with Men of Parts, Austere and Ri∣gid to Excess among the Indian Penetents, handsom∣ly Drest in China, and half Naked in the Wilderness

of Medura, to the end that the Gospel always uni∣form, always unalterable in it self, may the more easily insinuate it self into the Minds of Men whom an holy Compliance and Conformity to Customs regulated by Christian Prudence, have already pre∣possest in favour to us. I am with the most profound Respect,

My Lord,

Your most humble and most obedient Servant ••. J.

Notes

• * 1.1

  They call it In∣chu Ti••ochu.
• * 1.2

  Yam-pi.