The compleat gard'ner, or, Directions for cultivating and right ordering of fruit-gardens and kitchen-gardens with divers reflections on several parts of husbandry, in six books : to which is added, his treatise of orange-trees, with the raising of melons, omitted in the French editions / by the famous Monsr De La Quintinye ... ; made English by John Evelyn ... ; illustrated with copper plates.

CHAP. IV.

How to judge certainly by viewing and visiting a Kitchen-Garden, whether there be any thing wanting in it, which it should be stockt with.

IT is no inconsiderable thing to understand certainly, not only what Provisions a Kitch∣en-Garden well maintained and ordered may furnish us with every Month in the Year, but likewise what works are to be done there in every Season, by an able Gard'ner, but yet that is not enough to make a Gentleman so knowing, as to be able to give him∣self the Pleasure to judge certainly by viewing of his Kitchen-Garden, whether it be indeed so well stockt or no, as to want nothing that it should have. For in fine, we must not expect always actually to find init, all the advantages we are beholding to Gardens for. We know indeed, that it should bring forth a provision for the whole Year, but we know very well too, that it does not bring forth all days in the Year, for example, in the Winter Months we hardly see in it any of its Productions, the most part of them being then carried out of it, and laid up in Store-houses and Conservatories. And besides, a∣mong the Plants that are to be seen in it at other times, how many is there which have not then attain'd to their perfection, which yet ought to make a Figure in this Garden, though they require perhaps two or three, and sometimes five or six Months time to arrive to it? Thus it is in the beginning of the Spring, with all Legumes or Edible Plants, and green things, and thus it is too in the Summer, with the principal Fruits of the other Sea∣sons, upon which Consideration, I thought it not impertinent nor unuseful, to shew yet

a little more particularly wherein consists the excellency and accomplishment of a Kitchen-Garden, judging of it acccording to the proportion of what we ought to find in it every time we go into it, and to give you the more exact and perfect an Idea of it, I will as near as I can, draw you the picture of our Kings, which is in its kind, the greatest that ever was beheld, as its Master is the greatest Prince that ever yet appeared; not, that I exhibit this Picture to engage any Person to copy it, but only to direct them how by the Rules of a just Comparison, and proportion of great things to little, they may take such Measures, as they shall think most accommodated to their own particular conve∣niences.

I will begin this Chapter with the Month of January, as I have done the two next preceeding ones, and shall tell you first, That in the Month of January, we ought to be very well satisfied with the Garden in Question, if we find in it a reasonable quantity of Winter Lettuces planted in Borders by Walls, and covered with long Straw, or Straw Screens. And Secondly, if we find in it some Squares of Artichokes, and Beet-Chards well covered with long Dung, with the like provision of Cellery, Endive, Common Parsly, and Macedonian Parsly, or Alisanders, &c. and ordered after the same manner. And in the third place, some Winter Cabbages, Ciboules, Sorrel, and Sallet Furnitures, and if these two last be sheltred with some sort of Covering. And if in the fourth place there be some squares of Asparagus without any other Artifice, than what is used to warm and force them in their Cold Beds, as I do, and have begun to do in November and December. All o∣ther Kitchen-plants must be housed and laid up, as Roots, Onions, Cardons, Artichokes, Col∣lyflowers, &c. In the fifth place, we may be content if we find the Fig-Trees well covered, all places where Trees should be, well filled up with Trees, or at least, with holes dig∣ged, and Trenches prepared, ready for planting them, or the Roots of those bared and laid open, that begin to languish, in order to their Cure. Sixthly, if we see Men busie in clearing the Fruit-Trees of Moss, and other filth that Spoils them, and if over and above that, we find there any Hot Beds for the Novelties of the Spring time, such as are Strawberries, Radishes, Little Sallets, Peas, Beans, Cabbage Lettuces, Parsly, Cucumbers, and Musk-melon Plantations, &c. If we likewise see some Fig-Trees and some other Trees forced and advanced by artificial Warmth, what then ought we not to say in praise of the Gard'ner, especially if we find the Walks and Alleys kept neat and clean, and no Garden Tools or Utensils any where neglected?

Having told you what should compose the Beauty of a Kitchen-Garden in the Month of January, I think it needless to add any Description of what makes it imperfect and disagreeable as well in that Month, as in all the rest of which I shall afterwards treat, be∣cause any Body may easily discern of himself, that 'tis just the contrary and reverse of what I have just now specified, that is to say, a want of any thing that should be in it, Negli∣gence, Slovinglyness, &c. which we are to look upon as the Monsters of Kitchen Gardens.

In the Month of February, we must certainly expect to see the beginning of a great Bustling and Activity in Garden works, we should now find the most part of those things flourishing, and grown pretty forward, that we told you were to be raised on Hot Beds, in the preceeding Month, and if about the latter end of the Month, the Weather appear pretty temperate, and there happen so considerable a Thaw as to promise an end of the great cold, our Gard'ners should then begin to dig and manure the Squares and the Coun∣ter Borders prepare the Cold Beds, sow those sorts of Seeds that are long coming up, as Parsly, Onions, Ciboules, Leeks, &c. They must likewise now earnestly mind the pruning of Trees, as well Dwarfs, as Wall-Trees, and palisade or nail up these last for the first time, and particularly they must take care to make Hot Beds for the replanting of Musk-melons and Cucumbers, and for little Sallets, Radishes, Cabbage-Lettuces, &c.

In March, when the Sun begins to pleasure us with both indifferent fair, and pretty long days, and nature begins visibly to grow warm and active, our Gard'ners also should with new and fresh vigour, and Application, bestir themselves in all parts of their Gar∣den, and be seen indefatigably to pursue all the works I have mentioned in the particular Treatise I made on that subject, and which therefore 'tis not necessary to repeat here again; so that if the extent of our Ground be great, and the number of Labourers propor∣tionable, we should have the pleasure with one cast of an Eye to see them diging, making up, sowing, planting, howing, weeding, graffing, pruning, &c. for in fine, before the Month be out, the most part of the Ground should be taken up either with Seeds or plants, which are to serve for provision for the whole year. All that was before covered with Dung, ought to be discharged of its coverings, which are now grown hidious, assoon as they cease to be necessary, and every thing ought to breath the free Air, which begins now to cheer both Animals and Plants; we should at this time have at least something to begin to

gather, either of Sallets or Radishes, of the new Season, if the Hot Beds of the foregoing Months have not as yet obliged us with that pleasure; But neatness and politeness ought particularly to glitter every where, and serve for a varnish to all the Alleys, and the dressed Grounds, that together with the first dawning of the rising Green that is now springing out of the Womb of the teeming Earth, and the perfumed breath of those Plants which Heavens richer influences have made odoriferous, and the abundance of Flowers which begin to display their beauties on every side, and the harmony of the pretty Birds, which a sort of extraordinary gayety and briskness at this time inspires with amo∣rous prattle, and with melodious Airs to strive to out-vie each other. This neatness may concurr to make a Theater of pleasure universally perfect, which may with irresistible allurements intice the curious to the divertisement of walking in so delicious a place.

In the Month of April, we are not to find any thing new to be done in our Kitchen-Gar∣dens, unless it be an augmentation of Hot Beds for Musk-Melons and Cucumbers. The Earth in them should now be covered almost all over with a new decoration of Infant Plants; Here we should see Artichokes rising as 'twere from the dead, and there Asparagus piercing the Ground in a thousand places; here we should with pleasure observe the Cabbage Let∣tuce wind up it self into round Balls, and here that multitude of Green Herbs, and Legumes, so different in colour, and so various in their shapes; These, these are the Innocent and natural Dainties which there present themselves for the nourishment, and Delicious entertainment of Humane kind. The Jacinth, the Tulip, the Anemone, the Ranimculus, and so many other Flowers, with what Glories do they not adorn the Gardens where they are? That which is here to be remarked, is only the ordinary main∣taining of what is already done and perfected; but that which should most take up our thoughts is the hopes of a future crop of Fruits, every one now being eager to run and view the Trees that shed their Blossoms, to see whether much Fruit knit upon them or no, or else to visit the Hot Beds of Musk-Melons and Cucumbers that seem to have taken well, to see how liberally they are like to recompence them for all the pains bestowed upon them.

When the Month of May comes in, what contentment have we not in useful Gardens; and how great are the sweets of enjoyment which we begin then to taste? We have now no longer occasion to demand why such and such spots of Ground are yet bare, Spanish Cardons, Collyflowers, Chard-Beets, Cellery, and even Arti∣chokes, and Cabbage Lettuces, which were not to appear so early, and for which those places were designed, coming to occupy them at the latter end of April, or beginning of this Month, and Purslain which because of the delicateness of its temper, had till now been retain'd in the Seed Closet, comes out at this time to gild the Earth, and to offer it self in abundance to pleasure its Master. The Straw-berries beginning to come now to maturity open and lead the way to the other Red Fruits which are immedi∣ately to follow after them: Green Peas are ready to satisfie the longing Appetire of the lickerish Palate. Mushrooms shoot up in Crowds; and in fine, of all the things contained in the Alphabet I have premised before this Treatise, there is hardly any but Spinage, and Mâches, that stave off the performance of their duty till August and September, for we may now see some little beginnings even of Endive, and if Hasting or Early Cherries were the first Fruit that appeared in this Month of May, the Hasting Apricocks, the Little Muscat Pears, and the Avant Peaches, or Forward Peaches will not leave them long alone to enjoy the glory of being the sole Riches and Ornaments of our Gardens, all these Fruits being now preparing themselves to appear in a very few days; the Musk-Melons likewise will not stay long behind them, &c. while the Cucum∣bers with an infinite number both of Lettuces and of other Plants, satisfie both our Palates and Necessities, as the Flowers together with the Orange-Trees, which in Mid-May we carry abroad out of their houses, perform likewise their functions in delighting both our Sight and Smell.

The parching heat of the Month of June, hinders us indeed from going into our Garden in the heat of the day, but what charms are there not in going to visit it Morning and Evening, when the cool breathings of a gentle Zephir reign there with Sovereign sway? Now is the Season when we may visibly perceive with our Eyes, all things to grow and thrive, and see a Branch that five or six days before, was not above a foot long, now shot out to three or four. Leeks are now planted, and squares covered with Green Herbs, compleat the tapestry; that odorns the Ground the Vine Flowers make an end of throughly embalming the air which was already all over perfumed with the grateful odour of the Straw-berries.

We gather in all parts, and at the same time with profusion distribute all those Plants that are become so beautiful and accomplish'd; we fill up the places again we had disfurnish'd, so that there hardly ever remains any part void; and nature now affects no better divertisement than to be amazing us with miracles of fertillity, so well assisted as she is, by the kindly warmth of the Father of Light; only she needs now and then the Auxiliary refreshment of convenient moisture, moisture which the propitious Clouds sometimes abundantly pour down, but which sometimes the Gard'ners Industry too is fain to supply her with in time of need. The Cold Beds and Counterborders Levelled and ad∣justed so even to a line, and so well furnish'd with Cabbage-Lettuces, what pleasure do they not afford to behold them? That forest of Artichokes of different colours which appears in a select and particular place, doth it not call out to the curious to come and admire them, and more especially to judge of their goodness and delicacy, whilst they are also passing their opinions of their beauty and abundance? The Palisades and Pole-Hedges so exquisitely well extended, and resounding with the warbling notes of chirping Birds which we pass through in going to this Kitchen-Garden, commence the pleasure of their walk, compleat it at their going back, and inspire them with a longing desire to return again with all convenient speed.

In these two Months of July and August, Kitchen-Gardens should be so richly and happily endowed with whatsoever their condition is capable of, that we may find plenty of all things there both to satisfie the pleasures of the present, and provide for the ne∣cessities of the future time, so that let us require of them what we please, they may be as ready to answer as we to make our Demands.

As for example have we a mind to all or any sorts of Herbs, Roots, Sallets, Perfumes, &c. They will immediately furnish us with them; have we a fancy to any Musk-Melons those chief and principal Fruits of our Climate? we may smell them a great way off, and need but follow our noses and go and visit them, and stoop and gather them; Would we have any Cucumbers, flat Pumpions, or other Pumpions or Citrulls, Mushrooms, &c. They will present us with store of them; Do our Appetites further crave after Artichokes, or Pears, Plums, Figs. &c. we may be sure to find there a considerable quantity of all those things; or, Have we a mind likewise to have any sweet and Aromatical Herbs, as Time, Sage, Savory, &c. or any relishing Plants, as Garlick, Onions, Ciboules, Leeks, Rocamboles, or Spanish Garlick, &c. There we need not fear to be supplied. Nay, the four or five next preceeding Months seem only to have laboured for these two last, so that we may expect all should go well in our Gardens in this season, if we be provided with a good Gard'ner, and which above all things, has the skill to chuse well, and Judg∣ment enough to know how and when to gather. The Carnations now are no small Or∣naments to our Gardens; and the Florists now are busie in couching their layers, and forget not to take their Bulbous Roots out of the Earth, to lay them up in places of shelter and security.

If in July and August our Kitchen-Gardens have signalized themselves by their Musk-Melons, Cucumbers, Legumes, and even by their Plums, their first Figs, and some few Pears, &c. we shall see that in the Months of September and October which succeed them, they will shew themselves exceedingly Glorious in the matter of Fruits which will be by the abundance of Peaches, Muscat, and Chassela's Grapes, of second Figs, and of Russelet, Butter, Verte Longue, or Long Green, and Bergamot Pears, &c. This being undoubtedly the true Season for Fruits, and the time in the whole year wherein the Country is most frequented.

That moderate temper of the Air which now keeps an agreeable Medium between the great Heat of the Dog-days newly past, and the bitter Cold that is to bring on Winter; this charming moderate temper I say, of the weather, Invites out the inhabitants of the Cities, to make a sally out to go and breath the free Air of the Countrey, and to assist at the diverting employment of the Vintage, and gathering of Fruits: And the Gardens ought now to surpass in an infinite quantity of all they were accustomed to produce in other Months, nor is it fit now to suffer one speck of Ground to lie idle. For if any square has been newly disfurnished, as for example, a Garlick Onion, or Shallot Square, &c. we should take care to fill it up presently again with Spinage, Mâches, Cheroil, Ci∣boules, &c. The same course is to be taken with some Beds of Summer Lettuces, which should be succeeded by a great number of Endive Plants, Winter Lettuces, &c. The Bulbous Roots of Flowers must now be put into the Earth again, to begin to take such new Root as may defend them against the rigours of the approaching Win∣ter.

The first White Frosts of November that make the Leaves of Trees grow Yellow, and loosen them from the places where they grew, that shrivel up and rot the Leaves of Endive, and of the larger Lettuces, and that Blacken the Artichoke Tops, &c. are as so many cruel, and Dreadful fore-runners, that give us warning of the approach of Winter that common and merciless Enemy of all Vegetation: And therefore we must take care early to secure in our Conservatory or store-house, all that is liable to be spoiled by the Cold without-doors, and besides, to cover with long dry Dung, that which we cannot conveniently take out of the Ground, and which yet will run great hazard of perishing without being sheltered with some covering, and so in this kind of hasty breaking up, and removing, I would have every body extraordinary busie in plying their duty, and I would advise our Gard'ner to increase the number of his Labourers, to prevent the damage he is theat'ned with. The prickle Baskets, and Hand-barrows should at this time be plyed with the greatest vigour and diligence, so that there may be always the one going thither and coming away again loaden with such things as are to be laid up or housed in the store-house or Conservatory, and the other filled with Dung, to cover that which is to be left upon the Ground. In a word, I cannot tell how to pardon those that either by imprudence or negligence, let themselves be surprized in such important occasions as this, for I would not have them indulge themselves any rest at all, till all their business be done: I would likewise have the store-house or Conser∣vatory well filled, and all things in it placed in a regular order. And I would have the whole Garden put on as 'twere another strange and new kind of cloathing, and such a Cloathing as at another time would render it ugly and disagreeable. I need not name here of what stuff it must be composed, we may smell well enough, that it must be gene∣rally of long Dung.

The Month of December, is still not without standing in need of a great deal of activity, for it often happens that the preceeding Month proves too short to let us finish all that should be done in it, which must therefore be made an end of in this, and that particularly if the Cold have not yet made all the havock it is capable of: We must then mind exactly to do all I have directed to be done under the head of the Works of this Month; so that we should expect to see now a great diligence used to prepare the Novelties of the following Spring; to clear the places of old Hot Beds, and to make preparation for the making of new ones with all imaginable expedition, and care taken not only to have a good provision of long Dung, and a great many Glass-Bells, but likewise to keep all the Glass-Frames in good repair, &c. And here I shall not forget to recommend to those curious persons who are blessed with the means to do it, the care to force Asparagus, and to recruit their Beds with new warmth as often as their great heat shall begin to flag. It is a work indeed of no inconsiderable pains and ex∣pence, but the pleasure to see growing in the midst of the severest Frost and Snow, abun∣dance of Asparagus, both thick, green, and every way most excellent, is great enough to take us off from grudging at our cost or trouble, and it may be truly said, that 'tis a priviledge hardly belonging to any but our King, to taste of such a pleasure as that, which is perhaps none of the least which his Versailles has afforded him by the care I have had the honour to take of it for that effect; and I may add, that 'tis certainly the only place in the world, where a Ground naturally Cold, backward and unfruitful, was ever seen to be forced to bear in the midst of the hardest Winter, what the best Grounds produce not but in temperate Seasons.

Notes

• January.
• February.
• March.
• April.
• May.
• June.
• July and Au∣gust.
• September and October.
• November.
• December.