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ON the 13th of May, 1673. I embark'd with M. Ioliet, who was chosen to be our Director in this Undertaking, and five other French-Men, in two Canow's made of Barks of Trees, with some Indian Corn and boil'd Flesh for our Subsistence. We had taken care to get from the Savages all the Intel∣ligence we could, concerning the Countries through which we design'd to travel, and had
drawn a Map of the same, according to their Relation, in which we had mark'd the Rivers, and the Name of the Nations we were to meet, and the Rhombs of the Wind we were to make use of in our Journey.
The first Nation we meet with is call'd the Nation of the Wild-Oats: I went into their Ri∣ver to visit that People, to whom we have preach'd the Gospel for several Years, and a∣mongst whom there are many good Christi∣ans. The Wild-Oats, from which they have got their Name, is a sort of Corn which grows naturally in the small Rivers, the bottom whereof is owzie, as also in marshy Grounds. It is much like our European Oats; the Stem is knotted, and grows about two foot above the Surface of the Water. The Corn is not bigger than ours, but it is twice as long, and therefore it yields much more Meal. It grows above the Waters in Iune, and the Savages gather it about September in this manner: They go in their Canow's in those Rivers, and as they go they shake the Ears of the Corn in their Ca∣now's, which easily fall••, if it be ripe: They dry it upon the Fire; and when it is very dry, they put it into a kind of Sack made with the Skin of Beasts; and having made a Hole in the Ground, they put their Sack therein, and tread on it till they see the Chaff is separated from the Corn, which they vann afterwards. They pound it in a Mortar to reduce it into Meal, or else boyl it in Water, and season it with Grease, which makes it near as good as our Rice.
I acquainted that Nation with the Design I had to travel farther into the Country, to dis∣cover the remotest Nations, and teach them the Mysteries of our Holy Religion; at which they were mightily surpriz'd, and did their ut∣most to disswade me from that Enterprize. They told me that I should meet some Nations who spare no Strangers, whom they kill with∣out any Provocation or Mercy; that the War those different Nations had one with the other, should daily expose me to be taken by their Warriors, who are perpetually abroad to sur∣prize their Enemies: That the great River was exceedingly dangerous, and full of dreadful Monsters, who devour'd Men, and even the Canow's themselves. They added, That a Devil stopp'd the Passage of the said River, and sunk those who were so bold as to come near the Place where he stood; and, in short, that the Heat was so excessive in those Parts, that we should never be able to preserve our Health.
I return'd them my hearty Thanks for their good Advices; but told them I would not fol∣low them, since the Salvation of a great many Souls were concern'd in our Undertaking, for whom I should be glad to lose my Life. I ad∣ded, That I laugh'd at their pretended Devils and Monsters, and that their Informations would oblige us to stand the more upon our Guard to avoid any Surprize. And so having pray'd to God with them, and given them some Instructions, we parted from them, and arriv'd to the Bay of Puans, where our Fathers make a considerable Progress towards the Conversion of those Ignorant Nations.
The Name of this Bay sounds better in the Language of the Savages than in ours; for ac∣cording to the Word they make use of, one may call it as well the Salted Bay, as the Stink∣ing Bay; for they call the Sea after the same Name. This oblig'd us to enquire whether there were in that Country any Salted Foun∣tains, as there is one among the Iroquois; but we could find none; therefore we think that this Name was given to this Bay, because of the great quantity of Mud and Owze that is there, from whence such Vapours arise, that occasion the most dreadful Thunders that ever I heard in any Country.
This Bay is about thirty Leagues long, and about eight broad, that is to say in its greatest breadth; for it grows narrower, and forms a Cone at the extremity; where one may easily observe, that this Bay has its setled Tides just as the Sea. This is not a proper place to enquire whether the Flowing and Ebbing of the Water of this Bay, may be properly call'd a Tide, or whether they are occasion'd by the Winds, which never, or very seldom fail to blow from the same Point upon the Moon's as∣cending our Horizon; but this I may say, That in the greatest Calm, the Waters in this Bay flow and ebb according to the Motion of the Moon; tho' I will not deny but that the Winds, which move the Waters towards the middle of the Lake, may contribute to this effect.
We left this Bay to go into a River that dis∣charges it self therein, and found its Mouth very broad and deep. It flows very gently; but after we had advanc'd some Leagues into
it, we saw it was interrupted by several Rocks and rapid Streams; and so shallow in some places, that it would hardly bear our Canow's. The bottom is full of Flints, which are as so many Razors that cut the Canow's, and made it impossible for our Men to walk therein, to make the C••now's more light, when the shallowness of the Water did not permit us to row away. It is full of Bustard, Ducks, and Teals, because of the Wild Oats in the Marshes thereabouts. However, we conquer'd those Difficulties, and came to an Habitation of the Miamis, Maskoutens, and Kikabeux; but before we arriv'd to their Village, I had the Curiosity to taste the Mineral Water of a River near it, and found a Simple of a wonderful Virtue a∣gainst the Venom of the Serpents. A Savage who knew it, had shown it to Father Allouez, who had often occasion to try its Virtues, God having been pleas'd to provide that Country with that wonderful Antidote against the Ser∣pents, who are very dangerous in those Parts. The Root of that Simple is very hot, and tastes like Gun-powder; they chew it, and apply it upon the Part of the Body stung by the Serpents; and this without any other Mystery cures the Wound; and the Serpents have such an Anti∣pathy with this Herb, that they run away from any Man who has rubb'd his Body with the same. It brings several Stalks about a foot high; the Leaves are somewhat long; the Flower is white, and the whole looks like our Gilliflowers. I took one into our Canow, the better to examine it.
This Bay of Pu••ons had been hitherto, as one may say, the Ultima Thulae of the French, for they never durst advance further into the Country. This Village, as I have intimated, consists of three several Nations, viz. Miamis, Maskoutens, and Kikabeux. The first are more civil than the other, and better shap'd, as well as more liberal. They wear long Hair over their Ears, which looks well enough. They are accounted valiant Men amongst their Neigh∣bours; but are so cunning, that they seldom return from their warlike Expeditions without Booty. They are apt to learn any thing, for they love to hear the Europeans talk; and Fa∣ther Allouez told me, That they had such a vio∣lent desire to be instructed, that they often disturb'd his Rest to ask him Questions about what he had told them the Day before. The Maskoutens and Kikabeux are more clownish; and there is as much difference between the Mia∣mis and them, as between our Boors and Ci∣tizens. As the Rind of Birch-Trees are scarce in this Country, they are oblig'd to make their Cabins with Rushes, which serve as well for covering the same, as for Walls. It must be own'd that these Cabins are very convenient; for they take them down when they please, and carry them by small Parcels where-ever they will, without any trouble.
When I arriv'd there, I was very glad to see a great Cross set up in the middle of the Village, adorn'd with several White Skins, Red Girdles, Bows and Arrows, which that good People had offer'd to the Great Manitou, to return him their Thanks for the care he
had taken of them during the Winter, and that he had granted them a prosperous Hunt∣ing. Manitou is the Name they give in gene∣ral to all Spirits whom they think to be above the Nature of Man.
Their Village is situated on a Hill, from whence one may discover the largest Meadows in the World, a••orn'd at certain distance with Groves and Woods. The Soil is very fertile, and produces a great quantity of Indian Corn. They preserve also Plums and Grapes.
As soon as we were arriv'd, M. Ioliet and I desir'd the Eldest of the Savages to meet us, and I told them that M. Ioliet was sent by the Governour of Canada to discover new Coun∣tries, and I from God Almighty to teach them the Knowledge of their Creator, who being absolute Master of all his Creatures, will have all Nations to know him; and that therefore to comply with his Will, I did not value my Life, which I freely expos'd to all manner of Dangers; Concluding, That we wanted two Guides to put us in our Way, which we de∣sir'd them to grant us. We enforc'd our Compli∣ment with some Presents that were kindly ac∣cepted by the Savages; who answer'd us like∣wise with a Present, viz. a Mat, which was our Bed during our Voyage. They granted us also two Guides, to accompany us for some Days. The next Day, being the 10th of Iune, the two Miamis who were to conduct us, im∣bark'd with us in sight of all the Inhabitants of the Village, who cou'd not admire enough that seven Europeans shou'd venture upon so dangerous and extraordinary an Undertaking.
We were inform'd, that within three Leagues of the Maskoutens, there was a Ri∣ver which runs into the * 1.1 Mississipi, and that we were to go directly to the West-South-West, to find it; but there are so many Morasses and Lakes between it, that had it not been for our Guide, we had never been able to find it; and the Ri∣ver upon which we row'd, to find the Place we were to land and carry our Canow into the other, was so full of Wild-Oats, that it lookt rather like a Corn-Field than a River; insomuch that we cou'd hardly discover its Channel. As the Miamis frequented this Place, they conducted us to the usual Place of Por∣tage, and help'd us to carry our Canow over∣land into the other River, distant from the former about two Miles and a half; from whence they return'd home, leaving us in an unknown Country, having nothing to relie upon but the Divine Providence. We made a solemn Vow in this place, and resolv'd to use some particular Prayers every Day to the Blessed Virgin, to recommend our Persons and Enterprize to her Protection, and after∣wards embark'd.
This River is call'd Mesconsin: It is very broad, but the Sands make its Navigation dif∣ficult; and this Difficulty is incrceas'd by an in∣finite Number of Islands cover'd with Vines. The Country thro' which it flows is very sine; the Groves dispos'd at certain Distances in the Meadows, make a noble Prospect; and the Fruit of the Trees discovers the Fertility of the Soil. Those Groves are full of Wallnut-Trees,
as also of Oaks, and of another sort of Tree unknown to us in Europe, the Boughs whereof are arm'd with long Thorns. We saw no other Game in these Meadows but a∣bundance of Wild-Goats, and Wild-Oxen. Within thirty Leagues of this Place where we embark'd, we found some Iron-Mines; and one of our Company, who had formerly seen such Mines, told us that these were extraordi∣nary good: They are not above three Foot deep, and are situate near a Row of Rocks, the Foot whereof is cover'd with fine Woods. After having row'd ten Leagues further, that is, forty Leagues in all from the Place where we embark'd, we came into the Mississipi on the 17th of Iune. The Mouth of the Mescon∣sin is about 42 Degrees and a half of Lat••tude. The Satisfaction I had to see this famous Ri∣ver, is almost incredible; for tho' the Savages had often spoken of it to our Men, none of them had been so bold as to venture so far in this unknown Country. This oblig'd me to consider this River with a greater Attention than otherwise I wou'd have done, as the Rea∣der will perceive in perusing the following Account.
The Mississipi is form'd by several Lakes in the North-Country, from whence its runs to the South. Its Channel is pretty narrow at the Mouth of the Mesconsin, being streighten'd by a Row of high Mountains on the other side; but however its Stream is very gentle, because of its depth; for we found there 19 Fathom Water. But a little below that Place, it enlarges it self, and is about three quarters
of a League broad. Its Banks are very fine; but three Days after, we discover'd a much bet∣ter Co••ucirc;ntry. The Trees are higher, and the Islands so beautiful, that I verily believe there is nothing like it in the World. The Mea∣dows are cover'd with an infinite number of Wild-Goats and Oxen, and the River with Bustards and Swans without Wings, because their Feathers fall in this Country about that time. We saw extraordinary Fishes, and one of them was so big, that our Canow was like to be broke into into Pieces, because it run a∣gainst it. We saw also a very hideous Sea-Monster; his Head was like that of a Tyger, but his Nose was somewhat sharper, and like a Wild-Cat; his Beard was long, his Ears stood upright, the Colour of his Head being Grey, and the Neck Black. He look'd upon us for some time; but as we came near him, our Oars frighted him away: This is the only one we saw. We caught abundance of Sturgeons, and another sort of Fish somewhat like our Trouts, except that their Eyes and Nose are much les∣ser, and that they have near the Nose a Bone like a Woman's Busk, three Inches broad, and a Foot and a half long, the End whereof is flat and very broad, insomuch that when they leap out of the Water, the Weight of that Bone makes them fall backwards. We saw al∣so abundance of Turky-Cocks on the Banks of the River.
The Pisikious, which we call Wild-Oxen, are not much unlike ours; they are not altogether so long, but twice as big: We shot one of them, and Thirteen Men had much ado to
drag him from the Place where he fell. Their Head is of a prodigious bigness, their Fore∣head broad and flat, and their Horns (between which there is at least a Foot and a half di∣stance) are all black, and much longer than those of our European Oxen. They have a Bump on the Back; and their Head, Breast, and part of the Shoulders are cover'd with long Hair. They have in the middle of their Forehead an ugly Tuff of long Hair, which falling down over their Eyes, blinds them in a manner, and makes them look dreadful. The rest of the Body is cover'd with curl'd Hair, or rather Wooll, like our Sheep, but much thick∣er and ruffer. Their Hair falls in Summer∣time, and then their Skin is as soft as Velvet, nothing remaining but a kind of short Downe. The Savages make use of their Skins for Gowns, which they paint with several Colours. Their Flesh and Fat is excellent, and the best Dish of the Savages, who destroy abundance of them, tho' they are very fierce and dange∣rous; and if they can but take a Man with their Horns, they toss him up, and then tread upon him. The Savages hide themselves when they have shot at them, for else they shou'd be in great danger of their Lives, those Beasts being fiercer when wounded; They follow them at certain distances, till they have lost so much Blood as to be unable to do them any hurt, or to defend themselves. They graze upon the Banks of the River; and I have seen above 400 together.
We continu'd to fall down the River, ha∣ving seen nothing for above 100 Leagues, but
Beasts and Birds; however, we were always upon our Guard, and especially during the Night, for fear of any Surprize. We landed in the Evening to dress our Supper, and made but a little Fire, and then left the Shore, cast∣ing an Anchor near the middle of the River, where we lay, as the safest Place, and yet one of us watch'd always by turns. On the 25th of Iune we went a-shore, and found some fresh Traces of Men upon the Sand, and then found a Path which led into a Meadow. We call'd our Men together, and it was resolv'd that our Men shou'd continue in the Canow's, while M. Ioliet and I shou'd follow that Path, and endeavour to find the Habitation of the Savages. This Undertaking was very bold, yet relying upon God Almighty, we went on, and within 10 Leagues from thence, discover'd a Village on the Banks of a River, and two other Villages on a Hill within half a League from the former. Having again implor'd God's Protection, we advanc'd so near to the Savages, that we cou'd hear them talk, and therefore thought it was time to give them notice of our Arrival, which we did with a loud Cry, and then stopp'd. The Savages immediately came out of their Cabins, and seeing but two Men, they were not frighted, and especially because we had acquainted them by our Cry, with our Approach, therefore they sent four of their Old Men to talk to us, and see who we were, and what Business we came upon. They carry'd two Pipes, adorn'd with Feathers of several Colours, which they presented to the Sun, without speaking a Word.
They march'd so slowly, that we began to be impatient; and when they came near us, they stopp'd, and us'd many Ceremonies. We were very glad to see them cover'd with Cloth, for thereby we judg'd they were either our Allies, or Friends of our Allies; and therefore I spoke to them, and ask'd them who they were? They answer'd, that they were Illinois; and present∣ed us their Pipe to smoak, desiring us also to walk to their Habitation. Those Pipes are call'd both by the Savages and Europeans, Calu∣mets; and therefore I shall make use of their Word for the future, having often occasion to mention these Pipes.
They conducted us to a Cabin, where an Old Man waited for us, in a very extraordina∣ry Posture, which, as I understand since, is the usual Ceremony they use for the reception of Strangers. This Man stood before the Cabin, having both his Hands lifted up to Heaven, opposite to the Sun, insomuch that it darted its Rays thro' his Fingers, upon his Face; and when we came near him, he told us, What a fair Day this is since thou comest to visit us! All our People wait for thee, and thou shalt enter our Cabin in Peace. Having repeated the Compliment to M. Ioliet, he conducted us into his Cabin, where abundance of People crowded to see us, keeping however a great Silence, that we heard nothing a great while, but now and then these Words, You have done well, Brothers, to come and see us.
As soon as we sat down, they presented us, according to Custom, their Calumet, which one must needs accept, for else he shou'd be lookt
upon as an open Enemy, or a meer Brute; however, it is not necessary to smoak; and provided one puts it to his Mouth, it is enough. While the Old Man smoak'd in our Cabin to entertain us, the Great Captain of the Illinois sent us word to come to his Village, where he de∣sign'd to confer with us; and accordingly we went to him, being attended by all the Inha∣bitants of this Village, who having never seen any Europeans before, accompany'd us all the Way. We met that Captain at the Door of his Cabin, in the middle of Ten Old Men; all of them were standing, and each had his Calumet towards the Sun. He made us a short Speech, to congratulate our happy Arrival in that Country; and presented us his Calumet, wherein we were oblig'd to smoak before we went into his Cabin.
This Ceremony being over, he conducted us, and desir'd us to sit down upon a Mat, and the Old Men of that Nation being present, I thought fit to acquaint them with the Subject of our Voyage, and therefore I told them, 1. That we design'd to visit all Nations that were on that River, down to the Sea. 2. That God Almighty, their Creator, took pity on them, and had sent me to bring them to the Knowledge of his Being, and therefore expe∣cted a full Submission from them. 3. That the Great Captain of the French had com∣manded me to tell them, that he had subdu'd the Iroquois, and wou'd have every Body to live in Peace. 4. We desir'd them to tell us whatever they knew concerning the Nations we were to meet along the River. We en∣forc'd
every Point of our Speech with a Pre∣sent, and then sate down. The Captain of the Illinois answer'd, that he was very glad to hear of the great Actions of our Captain, meaning the Governour of Canada, and de∣sir'd us to remain amongst them, because of the great Dangers to which we shou'd be ex∣pos'd in continuing our Voyage; but I told them that we did not fear to lose our Lives for the Glory of God; at which they were mightily surpriz'd. He presented us with a Calumet, the most mysterious thing in the World; of which I shall give an Account in another Place.
The Council being over, we were invited to a Feast, which we were oblig'd to accept. The first Mess was a Dish of Sagamittee, that is, some Meal of Indian Corn boyl'd with Wa∣ter, and season'd with Grease: The Master of Ceremonies holding a kind of Spoon full of that Sagamittee, put some thrice into my Mouth, and then did the like to M. Ioliet. They brought for a Second Course, three Fishes in a Dish, whereof he took a Piece, and ha∣ving took out the Bones, and blown upon it to cool it, he put it into my Mouth, just as a Bird feeds his young ones. The third Service was a huge Dog, whom they kill'd on pur∣pose; but understanding that we eat no such Creatures, they brought a Piece of Beef, and serv'd us as before.
As soon as we had done, we went to visit the Village, which consists of near 300 Ca∣bins, being attended by an Officer, to oblige the Savages to make room, and not crowd up∣on
us. They presented us with Girdles and Garters, and some other Works made of the Hair of Bears and Oxen. We lay in the Ca∣bin of the Captain, and the next Day took our Leave of him, promising to return in Four Moons. They conducted us as far as our Canow's, with near 800 Persons, who ex∣press'd an extraordinary Joy for our kind Visit, as they call'd it.
It will not be improper to relate here what I observ'd of the Custom and Manners of this People, which are very different from what is practis'd among the other Nations of the Nor∣thern-America.
The Word Illinois in their Language signifies Men, as if they shou'd look upon the other Sa∣vages as Beasts; and truly it must be confess'd that they are not altogether in the Wrong, for they have more Humanity than all the other Nations that I have seen in America. The short time I remain'd with them, did not permit me to inform my self, as much as I desir'd, of their Customs and Manners; but here is what I was able to observe. They are divided in∣to several Villages, whereof some are very re∣mote from those that I have seen. They call them Perouarca; but as they live so far one from the other, their Language is also very different. However, it is a Dialect of the Al∣gonquin, and therefore we were able to under∣stand what they said, and to converse with them. They are good-natur'd Men, tractable and easie: They keep several Wives, and yet they are exceedingly jealous: They observe with a great Care their Behaviour; and if they
find them in any Fault as to their Chastity, they cut their Noses and Ears; and I saw se∣veral who carry'd upon their Faces the Marks of their Infidelity. The Illinois are very well shap'd, and very dexterous: They are good Marks-men with their Arrows and small Guns, with which they are supply'd by the Savages that have Commerce with the Eu∣ropeans. This makes them formidable to the other Nations inhabiting to the Westward, who have no Fire-Arms. The Illinois know∣ing how much they are frighted, at the Noise of their Guns, make Excursions very far to the Westward, and bring Slaves from thence, which they barter with other Nations for the Commodities they want. Those Nations are altogether ignorant of Iron Tools; and their Knives, Axes, and other In∣struments, are made of Flints, and other sharp Stones.
When the Illinois go upon any Expedition, the whole Village must have notice of it; and therefore they use to make an Out-cry at the Door of their Huts the Evening before they go, and the Morning they are to set out. Their Captains are distinguish'd from the Sol∣diers by Red Scarffs, made with the Hair of Bears or Wild-Oxen, that are curiously wrought. They have abundance of Game; and their Soil is so fertile, that their Indian Corn never fails, and therefore they never la∣bour under Famine. They sow Beans and Melons, which are excellent, and especially those whose Seed is Red. They esteem much their Citruls, tho' they are none of the best.
They dry them up, and keep them till the Winter and Spring. Their Cabins are very large; they are made, cover'd, and pav'd with Mats of Marish-Rushes. Their Dishes are of Wood; but their Spoons are made with the Bones of the Skull of Wild-Oxen, which they cut so as to make them very convenient to eat their Sagamittee. They have Physicians a∣mongst them, towards whom they are very liberal when they are sick, thinking that the Operation of the Remedies they take, is pro∣portionable to the Presents they make unto those who have prescrib'd them. They have no other Clothes but Skins of Beasts, which serve to cover their Women; for the Men go most of the Year stark-naked. I don't know by what Superstition some of the Illinois and Nadouessians wear Women's Apparel. When they have taken the same, which they do in their Youth, they never leave it off; and cer∣tainly there must be some Mystery in this Matter, for they never Marry, and work in the Cabins with Women, which other Men think below them to do. They may go however to their Wars, but they must use on∣ly a Club, and not Bows and Arrows, which are fit, as they say, for Men alone. They assist at all the Superstitions of their Iuglers, and their solemn Dances in honour of the Calumet, in which they may sing, but it is not lawful for them to dance. They are call'd to their Councils, and nothing is determin'd with∣out their Advice; for, because of their ex∣traordinary way of Living, they are look'd
upon as Manitous, or at least for great and in∣comparable Genius's.
I must speak here of the Calumet, the most mysterious thing in the World. The Sceptres of our Kings are not so much respected; for the Savages have such a Deference for this Pipe, that one may call it The God of Peace and War, and the Arbiter of Life and Death. One, with this Calumet, may venture amongst his Enemies, and in the hottest Engagement they lay down their Arms before this Sacred Pipe. The Illinois presented me with one of them, which was very useful to us in our Voyage. Their Calumet of Peace is different from the Ca∣lumet of War; They make use of the former to seal their Alliances and Treaties, to travel with safety, and receive Strangers; and the o∣ther is to proclaim War.
It is made of a Red Stone like our Marble; the Head is like our common Tobacco-Pipes, but larger; and it is fix'd to a hollow Reed, to hold it for smoaking. They adorn it with fine Feathers of several Colours; and they call it The Calumet of the Sun, to whom they pre∣sent it, especially when they want fair Weather or Rain, thinking that that Planet can have no less respect for it than Men have, and therefore that they shall obtain their Desires. They dare not wash themselves in Rivers in the beginning of the Summer, or taste the new Fruit of Trees, before they have danc'd the Calumet, which they do in the following manner:
This Dance of the Calumet is a solemn Ce∣remony amongst the Savages, which they per∣form
upon important Occasions, as to con∣firm an Alliance, or make Peace with their Neighbours. They use it also to entertain any Nation that comes to visit them; and in this Case we may consider it as their Balls. They perform it in Winter-time in their Cabins, and in the open Field in the Summer. They chuse for that purpose a set Place among Tre••s, to shelter themselves against the Heat of the Sun, and lay in the middle a large Matt, as a Car∣pet, to lay upon the God of the Chief of the Company, who gave the Ball; for every one has his peculiar God, whom they call Mani∣toa. It is sometime a Stone, a Bird, a Serpent, or any thing else that they dream of in their Sleep; for they think this Manitoa will prosper their Wants, as Fishing, Hunting, and other Enterprizes. To the Right of their Manitoa they place the Calumet▪ their Great Deity, making round about it a kind of Tro∣phy with their Arms, viz. their Clubs, Axes, Bows, Quivers, and Arrows.
Things being thus dispos'd, and the Hour of Dancing coming on, those who are to sing, take the most Honourable Seats under the Sha∣dow of the Trees, or the Green Arbors they make in case the Trees be not thick enough to shadow them. They chuse for this Service the best Wits amongst them, either Men or Women. Every Body sits down afterwards, round about, as they come, having first of all saluted the Manitoa, which they do in blowing the Smoak of their Tobacco upon it, which is as much as offering to it Frankincense. E∣very Body, one after another, takes the Calu∣met,
and holding it with his two Hands, dances with it, following the Cadence of the Songs. This Preludium being over, he who is to begin the Dance appears in the middle of the Assem∣bly, and having taken the Calumet, presents it to the Sun, as if he wou'd invite him to smoke. Then he moves it into an infinite Number of Postures, sometimes laying it near the Ground, then stretching its Wings, as if he wou'd make it fly, and then presents it to the Spectators, who smoke with it one after another, dancing all the while. This is the first Scene of this fa∣mous Ball.
The Second is a Fight, with Vocal and In∣strumental Musick; for they have a kind of Drum, which agrees pretty well with the Voi∣ces. The Person who dances with the Calu∣met, gives a Signal to one of their Warriours, who takes a Bow and Arrows, with an Ax, from the Trophy already mention'd, and fights the other, who defends himself with the Calu∣met alone, both of them dancing all the while. The Fight being over, he who holds the Calu∣met, makes a Speech, wherein he gives án Ac∣count of the Battels he has fought, and the Prisoners he has taken, and then receives a Gown, or any other Present, from the Chief of the Ball. He giv••s then the Calumet to another, who having acted his Part, gives it to another, and so of all others, till the Calu∣met returns to the Captain, who presents it to the Nation invited unto that Feast, as a Mark of their Friendship, and a Confirmation of their Alliance. I can't pretend to be so much Master of their Language as to judge
of their Songs, but methinks they are very witty.
We parted from the Illinois towards the mid∣dle of Iune, about 3 a-clock, and fell down the River, looking for another call'd Pakitanoni, which runs from the North-West into the Mis∣sissipi, of which I shall speak anon. As we follow'd the Banks, I observ'd on a Rock a Simple, which I take to be very extraordinary. Its Root is like small Turnips link'd together by some Fibres of the same Root, which tastes like Carrots. From that Root springs a Leaf as large as one's Hand, and about an Inch thick, with some Spots in the middle; from whence spring also some other Leaves, each of them bearing five or six yellow Flowers, like little Bells.
We found abundance of Mulberries as good and as big as ours; and another Fruit which we took at first for Olives, but it tastes like Orange. We found another Fruit as big as an Egg, and having cut it in two Pieces, we found the inside was divided into sixteen, eighteen, and twenty small Cells or Holes, and in each of them a Fruit like our Almonds, which is very sweet, tho' the Tree stinks: Its Leaves are like our Walnut-Tree's. We saw also in the Meadows a Fruit like our Filbirds: The Tree which bears it has its Leaves much broad∣er than ours; and at the End of the Branches there is a kind of a Purse like a Turnbole, in which the Filbirds are lock'd up.
Along the Rocks I have mention'd, we found one very high and steep, and saw two Monsters painted upon it, which are so hide∣ous
that we were frighted at the first Sight, and the boldest Savages dare not fix their Eyes upon them. They are drawn as big as a Calf, with two Horns like a Wild-Goat; Their Looks are terrible, tho' their Face has some∣thing of Humane Figure in it: Their Eyes are Red, their Beard is like that of a Tyger, and their Body is cover'd with Scales. Their Tail is so long that it goes o'er their Heads, and then turns between their Fore-Legs under the Belly, ending like a Fish-Tail. There are but three Colours, viz. Red, Green, and Black; but those Monsters are so well drawn, that I cannot believe that the Savages did it; and the Rock whereon they are painted is so steep, that it is a Wonder to me how it was possible to draw those Figures: But to know to what purpose they were made, is as great a Mystery. Whatever it be, our best Painters wou'd hardly do better.
As we fell down the River, following the gentle Stream of the Waters, and discoursing upon those Monsters, we heard a great Noise of Waters, and saw several Pieces of Timber, and small floating Islands, which were hudled down the River Pekitanoni. The Waters of this River are so muddy, because of the vio∣lence of its Stream, that it is impossible to drink of it, and they spoil the Clearness of the Mississipi, and make its Navigation very dangerous in this Place. This River runs from the North-West; and I hope to discover, in following its Channel towards its Source, som•• other River that discharges it self into the Mar Marvejo, or the Caliphornian-Gulph. The
Savages told me, That about six Days Journey from its Mouth, there is a Meadow of thirty Leagues broad, at the end whereof, directly to the North-West, is a small River, which is near navigable for Canow's, and runs to the South-West into a Lake, from which springs a deep River, which runs directly Westward into the Sea, which certainly must be the Mar Vermejo; and I hope I shall have, one time or other, the opportunity to undertake that Discovery, to instruct those poor Nations who have been so long ignorant of their Creator. But leaving this Digression, I return to the Mississipi.
About 20 Leagues lower than the Pekitanoni, we met another River call'd Ouabouskigo••, which runs into the Mississipi, in the Latitude of 36 degrees; but before we arriv'd there, we pass'd through a most formidable Place to the Savages, who believe that a Manitoa, or Devil, resides in that Place, to deliver such who are so bold as to come near it. They had told us dreadful Stories to deter us from our Undertaking; but this terrible Manitoa proves nothing but some Rocks in a turning of the River, about thirty foot high, against whom the Stream runs with a great violence; and being beaten back by the Rocks and Island near it, the Waters make a great noise, and flow with a great rapidity through a narrow Canal, which is certainly very dangerous to unskilful Canow-men. This River Ouabouskigou comes from the Eastward; the Chuoanous inhabit its Banks, and are so nu∣merous, that I have been inform'd there are thirty eight Villages of that Nation situated on this River. This People is much infected by
the Iroquois, who make a cruel War upon them without any Provocation, but only bec••use they are a poor harmless Nation, unacquainted with any Arms. They take them without any resistance, and carry them into Slavery.
A little above the Mouth of the River, we saw some Downs, wherein our Men discover'd a good ••ron-Mine: They saw several Veins of it, and a Lay of about a foot thick. There is also a great quantity of it adhering to the Flints, some of which they broug••t into our Canow. There is also a kind of fat Earth of three diffe∣rent Colours, viz. Purple, Violet, and Red, which turns the Water into a deep Blood-colour. We found also a red Sand very heavy: I put some upon my Oar, which immediately became red; and the Waters could not wash it away for a Fortnight together. We had seen no Reeds or Canes; but they begin to be so thick ••n this Place, that Wild Oxen can hardly go through them. They grow very high and big, and their Knots are crown'd with several Leaves long and sharp, the greenness whereof is incomparable.
We had not been troubled hitherto with Gnats, but they began to be very troublesom to us a little lower in the Ouabouskigou. The Sa∣vages who inhabit this Country are oblig'd to build their Huts in a different manner from the other, because of those troublesom Flies. They drive into the Ground big Poles, very near one another, which support a large Hurdle, which serves them instead of a Floor, under which they make their Fire; and the Smoak drives a∣way those Creatures, who cannot abide it.
They lay upon that Hurdle, the Roof whereof is cover'd with Skins against the Rain, and serves also to shelter them against the Heat of the Sun. The same Reason oblig'd us to make a Cabin over our Canow.
As we were considering the Country, the Banks of the River being very low, we disco∣ver'd several Savages arm'd with Fire-Arms, waiting for us upon the Shoar, where the Stream of the River carry'd us. Our Men pre∣par'd themselves to fight, and it was resolv'd to let them fire first of all; and as we came near, I spoke to them in the Language of the Hurons, and shew'd my Calumet of Peace; but they did not answer me, which we took for a Declara∣tion of War. However, we resolv'd to venture to pass; but when they had seen us at a nearer distance, they desir'd us in a friendly manner to come to their Habitations, where they en∣tertain'd us with Beef and Oil of Bears, toge∣ther with white Plums, as good every bit as ours. These Savages have Guns, Knives, Axes, Shovels, Glass-Beads, and Bottles wherein they put their Gun-powder. They wear their Hair long▪ as the Iroquois, and their Women are cover'd as they are amongst the Hurons. They told us, That they were only within ten Days Journey of the Sea; that they bought those Commodities from Europeans who live to the Eastward; that these Europeans had Images and Beads; that they play upon Instruments; that some were cloath'd as I was, and that they were very kind to them. However, I could find nothing in them, that could perswade me that they had receiv'd any Instruction about our
Holy Religion. I endeavour'd to give them a general Idea of it, and presented them with some Medals to put them in mind of it.
The account given us by the Savages was a great Encouragement to us, in hopes to see the Sea in a few Days; and therefore we row'd with an extraordinary vigour. The Banks of the River began to be cover'd with high Trees, which hinder'd us from observing the Country, as we had done all along▪ but we judged from the bellowing of the Oxen, that the Meadows are very near. We saw some Quails on the Water-side, and shot a small Parrot, who had the half of his Head red, and the other part, and the Neck, yellow, and the rest of the Body green. We found our selves in this Place in the Lati∣tude of 33 Degrees, steering directly Southerly; and a little while afterwards we discover'd a Village on the River-side call'd Michigamea. The Savages made a great noise, and appear'd in Arms, dividing themselves into three Parties, one of which stood on the Shoar, while the others went into their Wooden Canow's to intercept our Retreat, and prevent our escape. They were arm'd with Bows and Arrows, Clubs, Axes, and Bucklers. Notwithstanding these Preparations, we row'd directly to the Shoar, where their main Body stood; and as we came near, two of their young Warriors flung them∣selves into the Water to board my Canow, which he would have done, had not the ra∣pidity of the Stream prevented his Design; so that they were forc'd to return a-shoar, having thrown at us their Clubs, which by good for∣tune went over our Heads. I presented my
Calumet of Peace, but they werè so busie that they could not see: However, as they advanc'd in a body to shoot at us, the Old Men disco∣ver'd my Calumet; whereupon they made an Out-cry, commanding their Youth to stop, and two of them advanc'd to the Water-side, throwing their Ar••ows and Quivers into our Canow, as a sign of Peace, desiring us by signs to come a-shoar, which we did, tho' with great apprehensions. I spoke to them in six different Languages, of which they understood none; but they brought an Old Man who spoke Illinois, whom we told, That we design'd to go to the Sea, and made them some small Presents. They understood what I told them on this matter; but very little, as I fear, what I added concerning the CREATOR of the World. They answer••d, That we should learn whatever we desir'd ten Leagues lower, at a great Village call••d Akamsca, and presented us with their Sagometta and some Fish.
We lay there that Night in great Fears, and the next Morning embark'd again with our In∣terpreter and ten Savages in one of their wooden Canow's, and met within half a League from Akamsca two large Canow's full of Savages. The Captain was standing in the first, holding his Calumet, of which he made several Motions, according to the Customs of his Country. I stood up likewise in my Canow with my Calumet, at which they were so pleas'd, that they met us with all imaginable Demonstrations of Joy, at∣tended with Songs and Shouts. They presented us their Calumet to smoak, and some Bread made of Indian Corn, and then return'd home, bid∣ding
us to follow him, which we did at some distance. They had in the mean time pre∣par'd a kind of Scaffold to receive us, adorn'd with fine Mats; upon which we fat down, and the Old Men and Warriors near us, the rest of the People standing off. We found amongst them a young Man who spoke Illinois much better than the Interpreter we had brought with us from Mitchigamea; and we desir'd him to acquaint his Nation with the Sub∣ject of our Voyage, as he had understood it from us. We made him some small Presents, which they receiv'd with great Civility, and seem'd to admire what I told them concerning GOD, the Creation of the World, and the Providences; telling us by the Interpreter, That they should think themselves very hap∣py, if we would remain with them to teach them.
They told us that we were within five Days Journey from the Sea; but that they were not acquainted with the Nation inhabiting the same; meaning doubtless the Europeans; for their Enemies hindred them from keeping any Correspondence with them. They added, That their Axes, Knives, and Glass-Beads, had been given them in exchange of other Com∣modities, by some Nations inhabiting to the Eastward, and by some Illinois, who had an Habitation to the Westward within four Days Journey: That the Savages whom we had met with Fire-Arms, were their Enemies, who hindred their Commerce with the Europeans; and that we should be expos'd to great Dangers, did not venture to proceed farther, because those
Savages were continually cruizing at the River. In the mean time, they brought us some Saga∣mettea, with some roasted Corn, and a piece of a Dog.
These Savages are very courteous, and give freely what they have; but their Provisions are but indifferent, because they dare not leave their Habitation to go a Hunting for fear of their Enemies. They have Indian Corn in great plenty, and at all times, having three Crops every Year. They roast it, or else boil it in great Pots of Earth, which are curiously made. They go n••ked, and wear their Hair very short, boring their Ears, which they adorn with Rings of Glass-Beads; but their Women are cover'd with Skins, having their Hair divi∣ded into two Tresses, which they throw be∣hind their Back, without any other Ornament. Their Feasts are without any Ceremony: They serve their Meats in great Dishes, and every one eats as much as he pleases. Their Lan∣guage is very difficult, and I could never pro∣nounce any Word. Their Cabins are made with the Barks of Trees, and are generally very long; they lie at the two ends, their Beds be∣ing about two foot higher than the Floor. They keep their Corn in Paniers made of Rushes, or in great Gourds. They have no Beavers, and all ••heir Commodities are the Skins of Wild Oxen. It never Snows in their Country, and they have no other Winter than some violent Rains, which makes the only difference between Summer and Winter. They have no other Fruit but Water-Melons, though their Soil might produce any other, did they know how to cultivate it.
They held a Council, wherein some propo∣sed to murther us, because of our Commodi∣ties; but their Chief oppos'd that base Design, and having sent for us, danc'd the Calumet in our Presence, which he presented me with, to seal our common Friendship. M. Ioliet and I in the mean time call'd our Men together, to advise whether we shou'd proceed any further, or return home from thence; and having con∣sider'd that the Gulph of Mexico lying in the Latitude of 31 Degrees and 40 Minutes, cou'd be but within three or four Days Journey from the Akamsca, and that therefore the Mississipi dis∣charg'd it self into it, and not to the Eastward of the Cape of Florida, or into the Californian-Sea, as it was expected, it was resolv'd to return home. We consider'd likewise that the Advan∣tage of our great Voyage wou'd be altogether lost to our Nation, did we fall into the hands of the Spaniards, from whom we cou'd expect no other Treatment but Death or Slavery; and therefore it was more prudent to content our selves with this Discovery, and make a Report thereof to those who had sent us. So that having rested another Day, we left the Vil∣lage of the Akamsca, on the 17th of Iuly, ha∣ving follow'd the Mississipi from the Latitude of 42 to 34, and preach••d the Gospel to the ut∣most of my Power, to the Nations we visited. We went up the River with great Difficulty, because of the Rapidity of the Stream, and left it in the Latitude of 38 Degrees, and went into a River, which conducted us into the Lake of the Illinois, which Way is much short∣er than the other, by the River Mescousin, thro' which we came.
I never saw a more pleasant Country than the Banks of that River. The Meadows are cover'd with Oxen, Stags, Wild-Goats; and the Rivers and Lakes with Bustards, Swans, Ducks, Beavers. We saw also abundance of Parrots. Several small Rivers fall into this, which is deep and broad, for 65 Leagues, and therefore navigable almost all the Year long. There is but a Portage of half a League into the Lake of the Illinois. We found on the Banks of the said River a Village of Illinois call'd Kuilka, consisting of 74 Cabins. They receiv'd us with all the Kindness imaginable, and oblig'd me to promise that I wou'd re∣turn to instruct them, and live in their Coun∣try. Their Captain, with most of their Youth, accompany'd us to the Lake of the Illinois, from whence we return'd to the Bay of Puans; where we arriv'd towards the latter end of September, having been about three Months in our Journey.
Altho' my tedious Journey shou'd be attend∣ed with no other Advantage than the Salvati∣on of one Soul, I shou'd think my Pains suffi∣ciently rewarded, and I hope I may presume so much, for having preach'd the Gospel to the Illinois of Perouacca for three Days together, in our Return, my Words made such an Im∣pression upon that poor People, that as we were imbarking, they brought to me a Dying Child, to Christen him, which I did about half an Hour before he dy'd, by a special Pro∣vidence of God, who was pleas'd to save that innocent Creature.
MR. du Salles, with divers French who did accompany him, fell down to the Mouth of the Great River, where it disembogues it self into the Gulf of Mexico; but neither he nor any of his Company under∣standing Navigation, or wanting Instruments, fancy'd they were in the Latitude of 27 De∣grees, whereas really it was 29; and not be∣ing able to inform themselves of its Longitude, or distance from the most Westerly End of the Gulf, they presum'd they were within a few Leagues of the River of Magdalen, which is 60 Leagues North of the River of Palms, and 120 from the River Panuco, as it is represented in Hennepin's Chart, and on the Great Globe of Coronelli; which great Mistake was the cause of all his Misfortunes: For after his return up the River, and through the Great Lakes to Canada, he embrac'd the next Opportunity of returning
by Shipping for France; where he to the King and his Ministers gave such a favourable Repre∣sentation of the Country, and Commodities therein contain'd, the Populousness of the Country, Civility of the Inhabitants far ex∣ceeding all the other Natives of America they had the Knowledge of: The King thereupon order'd him a Fleet, and a very considerable Equipage, viz. a Man of War carrying 56 Guns, a great Fly-boat, a Patache, and a Bri∣gantine, with things convenient for establish∣ing a Colony and Traffick with the Natives. This Fleet was Commanded by M. Beaujeau, an Experienc'd Sea-Captain, who was Victu∣all'd for a Year; and M. du Salles had under his Command 150 Land-men, who were to settle in the Country. The Fleet pass'd by Marti∣nico and Guardaloupe, where they took in fresh Provision and Water, together with divers Vo∣luntiers; and by M. du Salles's Direction, sail'd thence to the North-West end of the Gulf, in 27 Degrees. When they arriv'd there, they were in great confusion, not being able to come near the Coast of Florida, by reason of a long Bank Reciff, or as the French call it Contre-coste, which they search'd for some hundred Miles. It was no-where above a Musket-shot over, and every 20 or 30 Miles there was a Breach, by which the Waters issu'd out of a vast Lagune, whose breadth they could not learn. They went in their Ship-Boat above 40 Miles, and could not gain sight of the main Land or Con∣tinent. This Lagune was shallow, in some Places six foot, in few above nine or ten; there are scatter'd up and down in it divers sma••l
Islands, upon one of them they found above four hundred Indians, who did not inhabit there, but came accidentally, being upon some Expedition. They were all Archers, very proper goodly Men; their Hutts were cover'd with Skins of the wild crook-back Kine, which the French call Pesikieus, the Spa∣niards Corcobades, or Crook-back'd. They con∣vers'd and traffick'd very friendly with the French divers Weeks, until an unhappy Acci∣dent made a great Breach.
M. du Salles, against the Opinion of the Pi∣lots, would adventure the Fly-boat through one of the Breaches into the Lagune, appre∣hending he had found a Chanel of sufficient depth, through which he might pass to the Continent: But whither the Chanel was too shallow, or that they mistook it, the Fly-boat was lost, and the Frigate drawing little Water, escap'd. The Indians upon the Island sav'd some small matter of the Wreck, which the French would take by force from them: They offer'd in exchange Skins, and such other Commodities as they had. The French when they could get no more, took two of their Pi∣roques, or large Canow's; which being abso∣lutely necessary for them, and without which they could not possibly return to the main Land from whence they came, occasion'd a Skirmish, in which the French lost fifteen Men, and the Indians many more. M. du Salles being almost distracted, not knowing how to find the Mouth of the River, took the Frigate, di∣vers Boats and Pinnaces, together with a hun∣dr••d and fifty Men, and Provisions for a Month,
and cross'd the Lagune, with an intention to search the Coast till he found the Mouth of the Great River. M. Beaujeu waited ten Weeks, and heard no Tidings from him, it be∣ing in the Heat of Summer. They wanting Water and Provisions, besides abundance of his Men falling sick of Fevers and Bloody∣fluxes, he departed for France, without any News of M. du Salle; who after he departed from the Ships, rambled some Days in the Lagune, and coasted the Main chiefly towards the West; which was directly contrary to the Course he should have taken, the great River being distant above one hundred Leagues to the East. But many believe M. du Salle was guilty of a wilful Mistake; for he perswaded his Men, That since they could not find the River, and were come to the Rivèr of St. Mag∣dalen, being the North-Westerly end of the Gulf, which was not above two hundred Leagues from the rich Mines of Endehe, Santa Barbara, la Parale, and others in the Province of Saceatecas, where the Spaniards are few, and not Warlike, they could not fail of a rich and easie Booty. This Proposition occasion'd a great Division amongst his Men, and deadly Feuds: One part were ready to comply with his Pro∣ject; others for returning to their Ships; a third Party for searching the Continent to∣wards the East, till they found the Great Ri∣ver, and then return and Pilot the Ship thither, and pursue their Instructions of Planting and Trading. From Words they came to Blows; many were kill'd in the Scuffle, and amongst others M. du Salle very treacherously by one
of his pretended Friends. Upon his Death they divided, and took several Courses. They that return'd to seek the Ship, found it departed, and were never heard of since; others scatter'd, some Easterly, some Westerly and Northerly. When I receiv'd this Account, which was a∣bove three Years after this disastrous Expedi∣tion, not above Six were return'd to Canada, and amongst them M. de Salle's Brother.
So that the Providence of Almighty GOD seems to have reserv'd this Country for the English, a Patent whereof was granted above Fifty Years ago to the Lords Proprietors of Carolina, who have made great Discoveries therein, seven hundred Miles Westerly from the Mountains, which separate between it Carolina and Virginia, and Six hundred Miles from North to South, from the Gulf of Mexico to the great inland Lakes, which are situated behind the Mountains of Carolina and Virginia. Besides, they have an Account of all the Coast, from the Cape of Florida to the River Panuco, the Northerly Bounds of the Spaniards on the Gulf of Mexico, together with most of the chief Harbours, Rivers, and Islands thereunto appertaining; and are abou•• to establish a very considerable Colony on s••••e part of the great River, so soon as they have agreed upon the Boundaries, or Limits, with the Lords Proprie∣tors of Carolina, who claim by a Patent procur'd long after that of Carolina. But there being space enough for both, and the Proprietors ge∣nerally inclin'd to an amicable Conclusion, the Success of this Undertaking is impatiently ex∣pected:
For considering the Benignity of the Climate, the Healthfulness of the Country, Fruitfulness of the Soil, Ingenuity and Tracta∣bleness of the Inhabitants, Variety of Producti∣ons, if prudently manag'd, it cannot, humanely speaking, fail of proving one of the most con∣siderable Colonies on the North-Continent of America, profitable to the Publick and the Un∣dertakers.
I Am inform'd a large Map, or Draught, of this Country is preparing, together with a very particular Account of the Natives, their Customs, Religion, Commodities, and Mate∣rials for divers sorts of Manufacturers, which are by the English procur'd at great Expence from other Countries.
Henepin calls it Meschasipi.