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Title:  The institution, laws & ceremonies of the most noble Order of the Garter collected and digested into one body by Elias Ashmole ...
Author: Ashmole, Elias, 1617-1692.
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The Black Velvet Cap,3. Cap: mentioned and described hap. 7. Sect. 4. before, and therefore needless to speak of it here; is also to be provided at the charge of the Knight Elect.Likewise the Helm,4. Helm, Crest, &c. and Crest, with Mantlings thereunto belonging, also a Sword and Girdle (usually called within the verge of this Order, the Atchieve∣ments of a Knight-Companion) are to be got in readiness, by the care and dire∣ction of Garter, but at the Elect Knights cost; all which are to be set over his Stall, assoon as his Installation Fees are paid.This honor, that every Knight-Companion should have his Helme, Crest, and Sword, hung up over his Stall in the Chappel of St. George at Windesor is parti∣cularly provided for, in all the several Bodies of Statutes; and are ordained to remain there during the lives of the possessors, E. 3. Stat. Art. memory (or as a hd. Stat. in Bl. Hattn Art. 9. Token or Mark of Honor) of him that bears them, and a testimony of the defence of the Church, as the Oaths of Military Orders require.The Helms, used for this purpose and upon this occasion, are made of Steel large and fair, and of a more than ordinary proportion: they are likewise (for the most part) of two sorts, the one appointed for Soveraign Princes, and framed Collect W. le N. Cl. open, with large Bailes or Bars; the other for Knights Subjects, whose Vizors are made Collect W. le N. Cl. close. About King Henry the Eighth's Reign the Knights Subjects Helms were parcel gilt with fine Gold in Oyle, wrought with Rabeskys and other works, and burnished with fine Gold. But in Queen Elizabeth's Reign, and since, it hath been the Custom to gild their Helms all over, placing St. George's Arms in the middle before the Vizors.The Mantlings that hang down on either side the Helm, which, with the Wreath, are in some places called Lib. N. p. 67.70. videsis Stat. in Pabl. Ha Art. 7. & . 8. Stat. Art. 8.Appendixes, are all of Tissue or Cloth of Gold, and heretofore lined with Collct. W. le N. .Sarcenet; but in Queen Mary's Reign they began to make use of Collect. W. le N. . White Satin, for of such were the Linings to the Mant∣lings of Collect Io. Vincent.Anthony Brown Viscount Montague, and Collect Io. Vincent.William Howard Lord Admiral.At the bottom of these Mantlings hang a pair of gilt knobs, burnished with Gold, from which issue Tassels of either Gold or Silver (according as is the me∣tal in the Knights Coat Armour) mixed with Silk of the chief Colour in his Arms.Upon the Helm and Mantlings is placed a Wreath of corded Silks, of the Knights colours, which was heretofore made of Sarcenet, but now of Taffaty.The Crest of the Knight is placed either upon these Wreaths, or issuant out of a Crown, or ducal Cap; turned up with Ermyn, and of what kind soever the Crest is, the same is neatly carved in wood, and either gilt or wrought in its proper colours in Oyl.Directly before the Helm, an arming Sword hangs down, the Pomel, Cross, and Chape are gilt; the Scabberd is made of the same Tissue or Cloth of Gold, as are the Mantlings, and so is the Girdle thereunto belonging; but the Buckles and Pendants are of Copper gilt.It appears a little before, that the custom of setting up the Helm, Crest, and Sword, over the Knights Stall is as ancient as the Institution of the Order; but when their Banners were first hung up, is not so clearly manifest; for neither do the Statutes of Institution, or King Henry the Fifth's Statutes take notice of them.The first mention of them that we find is in the Black Book of the Order, an. 2. H. 6. where the Lib. N. p. 7.Banner of the King of Portugal, is particularly named among the Atchievements then set up over his Stall, but Henry the Eighth's body of Statutes makes particular Art. 8. mention of them.The fashion of the Soveraign's and all the Knight-Companions Banners are square; but it doth no where appear to us, of what size their Banners anciently were; yet in Queen Elizabeth's Reign, we find them Collect. W. le N. Cl. videsis MS. 4. penes E. W. G. two yards and a quarter long, and a yard and three quarters broad, beside the Fringe (which is made of Gold or Silver and Silk, of the colours in the Wreath) and thereon are wrought or beaten upon Taffaty-Sarcenet, double-Sarcenet, or rich Taffaty, with fine Gold and Colours, on both sides, the paternal Coat of the Knights Companion,