An itinerary contayning a voyage, made through Italy, in the yeare 1646, and 1647. Illustrated with divers figures of antiquities. Never before published. / By Jo: Raymond, Gent.

AN ITENIRARY CONTAINING A breife Narration of a Voyage made through Italy, in the yeare 1646. and 1647.

THere are but two ordi∣nary passages out of France into Italy, the one over the Alpes, the other by the Mediterranean Sea, those commonly which goe by the first, returne by the second, and so contrary. We (November be∣ing quite expired ere we left France) for our owne conveni∣ence preferred a boate before

a horse, I meane the Sea voy∣age, before the Land. Where∣fore being come to Antibe the utmost City of France, wee found favour of the Governour (it being a Frontiere and place of strength) in giving us a Bill of health, without which it is very difficult to enter into any of the Italian States or Cities, & having over night procured a Filoaco to carry us all our way to Genua if so be wee mett with no Boate of returne betwixt thence and Monaco; the next morning we departed, and a∣bout nine in the forenoone came before Nice in Savoy, situ∣ated on the Sea side, but hath no Port, the buildings are after the Italian, & it is commanded by a strong Castle that stands on a hill. Finding no conveni∣ence of imbarquing better here

we sayled on, but at the point of Land that turnes towards Morgues, there arose a contrary winde, which forc't us to re∣tyre into the next harbour, to wit Villa Franca (aunciently called Portus Herculis) where by permissiō of the Governour of the Citadell we lay that night. This place likewise be∣longs to the Duke of Savoy. The next day going out of the Ha∣ven we met with a Genova Fi∣louco, & having agreed for our passage in that, quitted our for∣mer, yet no sooner were we in the boat but a Tempest drove us againe into the harbour; so that we lost that day entirely. The day following we had both faire weather, & a calme Sea, which encourag'd our water∣men to adventure out; about 2. miles from Ʋilla Franca we dis-

a great vessell making towards us, which our Boatmen seemed to feare taking it, for a Turkish man of War, but we were after∣wards informed to the cōtrary. A little further we strooke into the Port of Monaco, and after an houre or two stay there, the wind growing contrary, our Boatmen wisht us to tarry lon∣ger least wee should be exposed to a greater inconvenience, which wee the more willingly condiscended too, in regard, tis so remarkable a place as no stranger can well passe without especiall observation thereof; for I must confesse I know no so small a principality of the like consideration, either for strength or riches; The Prince of the family of the Grimaldi of Genua, is in his state sove∣raine, and coynes mony, but

hath still some greater King for his Protector, of late yeares hee left the Spanish party, and gave himselfe with this his cheife Towne, to the King of France's tuition, so that at our arrive there, there was a strict garison of French; the Marquis of Cor∣bon being then Governour to whom wee had addresse from his Brother in Law at Antibe, us'd us very civilly, and sent a souldier with us; to shew us all the rarityes that are there to be seene.

Monaco (whether I may pro∣perly call it a Town or Castle I know not) is situated on the top of a rockey Promontory of in∣credible hard accesse,* 1.1 inviron'd with strong walls, within which are some streets very neately representing the face of a City, in the middest is a spaci∣ous

court fit for to exercise mi∣litary discipline in, at the end is the Princes Palace, which though Beautifull on the out∣side yet contains greater wealth within, cheifly in his Gardrobe, where the variety of Tapistries the great quantity of plate, with the vastnesse of vessels, as Fountaines, Tables, and such like of pure silver, striks a∣mazement into him that sees it, besides this rich furniture, there are two Cabinets or Galeries of rare curiosities which excep∣ting the Duke of Florences, may be equaled with most of that nature in Italy: amongst other singularities I was much taken with the statue of an In∣dian of Porphyre, and other materiall, as likewise a gem∣mery compil'd of severall pre∣tious stones with these letters;

Otium Francisci Bembi; The Prince was then in enlarging this Palace, and beautifying it with Marbles and waterworks. Having with great satisfaction seene all the particularities of this place, we returned downe to our Inne, and it growing to∣wards night, some few howers before our departure a hard ac∣cident befell us, which was the losse of our Bill of health, wherefore though it was darke and the watch was set, yet wee sent up a letter by a string to the Governour, who very courteously returned us a Ticket of larger extent then our former. At midnight wee departed from Monaco past eight miles farther by Menton, a village belonging to the same Prince, and about breake of day we came before Vintimiglia

the first city (towards France) of the Republique of Genua, from hence we were in view of the mountaines of Corsica and foure miles farther we past by Saint Remes, where the shore (which is called by the name of the rive of Genua) is all cove∣red with Orange, Citron, and Date Trees. Past the rest of that day without seeing any thing remarkable, unlesse Porto Mauritio, where heretofore there was a very good Port which the Genuesians ruin'd, fearing it should bring preju∣dice to their owne. Towards night we strooke in at Oneille, a city which seemes to inter∣rupt the Genois dominions, and belongs to the Duke of Savoy. After we had supt wee tooke boate and sayled all night by many Townes, viz.

Diano, Araisse, where they fish for Corall, Albengue, Luan, a city of the Prince of Oria a Ge∣nois, Final a place of strength and the only garrison the King of Spaine hath in these coasts; the Port though small yet serves much in the conveyance of men and amunition towards Milan. This place commonly pillageth strangers, they taking all for Frenchmen; but (pray∣sed be God) wee past quietly, and towards breake of day came before Savona; The most ancient and greatest city of the Genevoisat after Genua it selfe. Behind this city, the Apennines that cleave Italy in sunder be∣gin to take their rise. From hence to Genua is 35. Italian miles; all which way one goes more and more into the plea∣santnesse of Italy, the whole

board being fild with Country Seats and Villages, which for beauty surpasse many cities I have seene elsewhere. Amongst those San Pietro d' Arania (whi∣ther the richer Genuesians re∣tire themselves in the sommer, and indeed may bee call'd ano∣ther Genua for the gallantry of the buildings) is the best; but three miles distant from Genua, the Metropolis of that most flourishing Republick, which contains so stately Palaces, that from all the rest of Italy, it hath gotten the name of Genua the superbe.

Tis situated at the foot of very high mountaines,* 1.2 which though sterile, yet want no∣thing that Art can enrich them with; In gardens, water∣workes, and the like. That which exceeds all the rest, is

the Prince of Orias Palace, rea∣ching from the bottome of the shoare, to the top of the moun∣taines, divided into three gar∣dens. In the first whereof the Terrasses or Porches one a∣bove another bore up with marble Pillars, is very magni∣ficent, as likewise the Foun∣taine of the Eagles, and the Family of Neptune: at the one side that famous Cage of iron∣worke, which is of so vast an extent that it encloseth a wood of Cypresse and other trees. The other two are fild with Grottes, Orange trees; and o∣ther variety of delights: At the upper part of all stands the sta∣tue of Jupiter tonant. Within the Pallace the Gardrobe full of rarietyes; the Tapestries and precious Furuiture declare greatly the richnesse of that Prince.

Next to this is the house of Hieronimo del Negro, where the excellent Pictures, the fall of waters, the Fountain, the Pis∣cina, the Grove and other de∣lightfull departments, are well worth seeing. On all sides of the City is an infinity of such places of pleasure, especially round a∣bout the Port, which is of a large circuit, resembling much the forme of a Theatre en∣clos'd with faire buildings. Tis defended by a solid Bul∣warke (which they call Il Mole) that lyes about 2 hun∣dred paces into the Sea, rais'd at a very great expence: Op∣posite to that a rocky Pro∣montory casts it selfe forth, at the head whereof stands a ve∣ry lofty Pharos, bearing a lan∣terne of more then an ordina∣ry bignesse, to guide Ships in

the night: Within the Haven is a place where the Gallyes lay, every one in a particular Classis. As for the City it selfe, it is enough to say the Genu∣esians live in a Kingly luxu∣ry, and I believe it is the best built and compacted City, not onely of Italy, but also of Eu∣rope. The houses generally are very high, the streets for the most part (its onely fault) are somewhat narow, so that no Coaches are here admitted, which though an inconvenience, yet preserves the wayes more cleane and neater. I except here that spa∣cious, long, even, and indeed Mistris of streets the Strada Nova, which I am confident may be justly preferd before any in Christendome, so proud in Architecture, so rich in Mar∣bles

are the Palaces tis fild with. The fairest one belongs to the Duke of Oria. Amongst the publick Edifices, the Ex∣change or Merchants Hall. the Dukes Palace with the Ar∣mory for 30 thousand men de∣serv'd our walking to. Neither are the Genuesians lesse splen∣did, in adorning their Conse∣crated places; witnesse the mighty quantity of polish't Marble, wherewith all the Churches are fild, especially San Lorenzo the Dome, and Santo Ambrosio belonging to the Jesuites. But that which surpasseth all, and is of most admiration, is the Chappell of the Anunciade, begun to bee built not many yeares since at the expence of one Family, (whose Palace joynes to it) yet is of so incredible richnesse

for the red and white Marble Pillars, and other ornaments, that one would imagine the revenues of a whole City could not bee enough to raise so glo∣rious a Worke as that will be when tis finisht. Finally, the Genuesians to defend this their brave City, have encompast it with Walls no lesse commen∣dable for beauty and strength, then prodigious for their large extent. The people of this Common-wealth are habited all alike, somewhat tending to∣wards the Spanish Mode; and are of a very austere and su∣perbe humour, hardly vouch∣safing to look so low as a stran∣ger, wherefore having with much satisfaction seene their Flourishing Estate, wee left them. We set out from Ge∣nua in a Filouca about Sun-set∣ting,

and having sayld all that night, about noone the next day we strooke into Porto Ve∣nere, and after dinner crost the Golfe of Aspecia, (which is de∣fended with many strong For∣tifications) to Lerizi. This Bourg being the mid way from Genua to Ligourne (such is the villany of the watermen in these parts) if they get their passengers, chiefly strangers hi∣ther, they will so delay their departure, pretending the in∣conveniences of the weather, that by lying still at so great an expence, they may bee forc'd to give them their pay, and to hire horses for the rest of the way by Land. Which trick wee were forc't to suffer pati∣ently, after a day and halfes at∣tendance for our boat. Hence we tooke Post, and having past

through the Olive woods, over the hills that lay neerest the shoare, wee came into a low plaine Countrey, which con∣tinued so to Ligorne. First we past the River Magre, then went by Sarazana, a good City, and last of the dominion of Genua, after that we came into the Principality of Massa, wher∣in we past by Lavenza and Car∣rara, where out of the hills they dig great store of Marble, and then through Massa it selfe, where the Prince resides in E∣state Soveraigne.

The Towne is very plea∣sant, standing in a Territorie fruitfull in Orange trees and other fruits. Hence wee came suddenly into Tuscany, but quickly left it, falling into a woody Country, belonging to the State of Lucas, and so

to Viregio, under the same power, standing at the mouth of a small river, which runnes from Lucques. Here we were forc't to lye, and the next morn∣ing some two mile farther wee past the river that parts the Re∣publique of Lucques from Tos∣cany, and so in the morning ar∣riv'd at Pisa.* 1.3

Which City was hereto∣fore a great free state of it selfe, but at the rising of the fa∣mily of the Medicis on which line the Dukes of Etruria suc∣cessively runne, this with many other noble cities, was reduced to the great Dukes subjection. From whom it hath received many Embellisments. Tis situ∣ated in a Marshy land, so that the unholesomnesse of the aire renders it scarce of the native people, much more of stran∣gers

which seldome tarry any longer then to see the rarities of the place. Amongst which I preferre that worthy peece of arte the Falling Tower which travellers boast of, (and not un∣deservedly) as one of the most mervellous things they see in the voyage of Italy. Tis cover'd round with galleries & 7. rowes one above another of Marble Pillars, so that 'tis hard to bee imagin'd by what engines so great a structure should be sup∣ported, it being built so decli∣ning to one side, that all men which regard it, at the first ex∣pect its fall. Hard by is the Do∣me or Cathedrall Church of Pi∣sa; where threescore Pillars testifie as well its Antiquity, as the Gates of Brasse its rarity. Joyning to this is the Campo Santo, or Cimetiere firm'd in

with a wall of Marble, and much resembles a Cloyster; in the midst is the Church yard from whence the place hath its denomination, that implies the holy Field; because halfe the ground was brought from Je∣rusalem, and it hath a particu∣lar propriety, that all bodies which are buried there, are consum'd within the space of 40. houres. Here are likewise reserv'd many Ancient Urnes, which, with the story of the Old and New Testament pain∣ted of old worke, make the place very venerable. Hard by is the Baptistary, or San Gio∣vanni; wherein, the Font, and pulpit leaning on foure Lyons, will for the precious∣nesse of the stone, yield to no other in Italie. Leaving the Area where these things stand

together, a little more into the towne is the Chappell and Pa∣lace, of the Knights of the Or∣der of St. Stephen, the Fron∣tespiece of the Chappell is of Marble neatly pollish't. The inside is adorn'd with the truest Ensignes of Valour; I meane Trophees taken from the com∣mon enemies of Christianity, the Turkes. Before their Pa∣lace is the statue of the great Duke Cosmus, with a Fountain. This Dignity of Knighthood is much like to that of Malta, both to maintain Christs cause against the Mahometans, yet these may marrie, the others I conceive may not: These weare a red Crosse for their badge in this fashion. ✚ From hence we walk't to the Physiti∣ans garden, which is more for use then delight; although there

be good walks, & water-works that well washt us, yet for the most 'tis cover'd with simples, outlandish Plants and the like. Joyning to it is a gallery very commodious for Medecinall things, it abounding with all curiosities of Nature, as for∣reign creatures, Stones, Mine∣ralls, and whatsoever strange the farthest Indies produce. In generall, this City stands so op∣portunely, as few like for the receiving of all forreign Wares. In the midst thereof runnes the river Arno, from thence to its Embuschment navigable for very great Vessels, so that here is a place where the Duke builds his Gallies: On one side of the river, is a faire street cald Longarno, where is the great Dukes Palace, and before it the statue of Ferdinand the third;

On the other side is the Ex∣change, little, but of Marble, then which nothing more common in Italy. In a word, 'tis prayse enough, to say tis the third City under the great Duke, who I thinke hath the fairest of what Prince soever. Having taken a satisfactory view hereof, we went on our way to Ligourne, whither there is an hourely convenience of a Coach to transport Merchan∣dise from Ligorne to Pisa, the Duke hath made an artificiall Channell, of 15. miles long, which bares small boates like to Venetian Gondoloes. The Escluse of which Channell we saw at our setting forth out of Pisa, cover'd for 250. paces. The most part of the way to Ligorne is through Fennes, till one enters into the great Dukes

Forrest, which continues to the towne.* 1.4

Ligorne the only maritimate place of importance, under the Great Duke, is situated in a plaine, at the board of the Me∣diterranean Sea, tis but little, yet the great concurse of Mer∣chants which flow thither from all Nations, chiefly from my one, make it more spoken of than many Cities, of a larger extent. 'Tis an innumerable summe of money the Duke re∣ceives yearly from this small Port: wherefore his Predeces∣sors with him have omitted no∣thing to make it strong, wit∣nesse the royall Bastions, and mote wherewith tis fenct; The great Port where the Ships lay at Anchor, is defended by the Mole, and about hath many fanalls. The Darcina, where

the Gallies (then but six in number) lay as quiet as in a Chamber, is most exquisitely well contriv'd: Before stands that best of moderne Statues, the Duke Ferdinand in Marble, and the Colosses of foure slaves under him, in brasse in divers Postures, so lively represented, that if the Statuary could have fram'd a voice as well as those bodies, he might have con∣querd nature. Besides this piece, there are no more curio∣sities in this towne, yet many conveniences. The streets are generally large, the houses low, but uniforme, unlesse some which have been put out of or∣der by an Earthquake, to which this place is often Sub∣ject. The great place is very beautifull, and fit for the as∣semblies of Merchants. On the

houses round about and in the fairest streets, are pictur'd all the battels, and victories of the great Dukes gallies, obtained over the Turks, which a slave did to gaine his redemption. The Jewes which are here in great number, have the fairest Synagogue I ever yet saw, wherin on a saturday their Sab∣baoth, we saw the manner of their divine (if so I may call it) service. Their priviledges here are more then ordinary, they wearing no marke of distincti∣on as in other Townes, so that here the wealthier and richer sort are of that Sect. The Greeks likewise have a Congre∣gation, and Church here. In a word, Ligorne is compacted of forreigners, yet the un∣wholsomenesse of the aire ba∣nisheth a great part from

thence, which I by dangerous experience found true; for the day before I was to depart for Florence, (having all the while I stayed at Ligorne found a strange alteration of the aire, different both from that of England and France.) I was ill dispos'd to sicknesse, however, not so much but that I adven∣tur'd on my journey, which though with much difficulty I perfected. The first night we lay at Pisa, which way we had for∣merly past. The next morning we tooke Coach, (a very un∣pleasant passage over hilly way) and past first by S. Ro∣man, a Convent of the Obser∣vantins standing on high, from whence is a pleasant prospect downe the valley, from thence we came to Empoly, a neat lit∣tle towne where we lay, and

the next day towards noone arrived at Florence.

Which for its singular ex∣cellencies,* 1.5 amongst all other Cities of Italy, is cal'd 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 the Faire. Florence the Capi∣tall of Toscany, and seat of the great Duke, is scituated at the bottome of very high hills, en∣viron'd on all sides with the same, excepting towards the West side, before which lies a plaine Countrey, vulgo Pianu∣ra di Fiorenza. This City is di∣vided in two by the river Arno, over which are built foure Bridges of stone, upon one of the two chief is the Goldsmiths street; upon the other of ve∣ry stately structure stand the foure quarters of the yeare in marble; Opposite to this be∣fore the Trinity, stands a vast Columne, with a statue of Ju∣stice

in Porphyre at the top, which, Cosmus the first great Duke rais'd as a Trophee in that place, because the newes there came to his eare of the taking of Siena. Hard by, is the Palazzo de Strozzi, no lesse to be admir'd for the immensity of its fabrick, then for its rude and unusuall Architecture. From hence towards the right hand is the Merchants Vault, supported with faire Pillars, and before it a brazen Boare jetting forth water; Keeping right on, one comes into the great Place, in the midst there∣of is the great Duke Cosmus, a horse-back in brasse, with this inscription under.

Cosmo Medici Magno, Etru∣riae Duci Primo, Pio, Felici, In∣victo, Justo, Clementi, Sacrae Militiae, Pacisque in Etruria Au∣thori,

Patri & Principi Opti∣mo, Ferdinandus, F. Mag. Dux: Mag. Dux. III. erexit: An. M. DLXXXXIV. on each side of the Basis.

Profligatis hostibus in dediti∣onem acceptis Senensibus: Ple∣nis liberis Sen: Fl. suffragiis Dux. Patriae renuntiatur. Be∣hinde.

Ob Zelam Religionis praecipu∣umque Justitiae studium.

Betwixt this horse and the Palazzo vecchio, is a Fountaine, which all Italy cannot shew the like besides, round about the Laver is the family of Nep∣tune in brasse, with his Co∣losse of Marble in the midst, bore up by foure horses; The whole not possible to be equald, much lesse excel'd by humaine art.

In this same Piazza, is a

Porch archt and adorn'd with some statues, amongst which that of Judith, in brasse with that of the Rape of the Sabines, three Persons in severall Po∣stures cut all out of one stone are most remarkable.

Just against it is the Palazzo Vecchio, at the entrance stands two Colosses, the one of Da∣vid, the other of Hercules trampling on Cacus, the first of Michael Angelo, which in my judgement comes short of the other, though he the more famous statuary. Within is a Court set about with Pillars of Corinthian worke; Above is a very spacious Hall with divers Statues, and amongst them those of two Popes, Leo the tenth, and Clement the seventh, of the family of the Medicis; the apertenants of this lodging

are very great, and costly, but it being not so frequented as if the Court were kept there, e∣very thing looseth its luster.

Wherefore having speedily dispatcht the sight hereof; that which requires a week to ob∣serve well, is at hand: I meane that richest of Treasures, the great Dukes Gallery. In the lower story sit the Courts of Justice, with an arcade to walk in on each side. Above are the shops of divers Artisans which work continually for the great Duke. In the uppermost part is contained as many wonders as things, Some to be admir'd for their preciousnesse and art, others for their rarity and An∣tiquity. On each side of the Gallerie are ranged Statues, to the number of fourescore and odde, of which for Antiquity

I preferre the Idoll brought from the temple of Apollo, at Delphis, with this verse on the Pedistall.

Ʋt potui huc veni Delphis & fratre relicto.

As likewise that of Scipio Africanus, holding up his Gowne under his arme, accor∣ding to Ciceros words. Nobis quidem olim annus erat unus ad cohibendum brachium toga con∣stitutus, & ut exercitatione lu∣doque campestri, tunicati utere∣mur. After these I may reckon the two triumphant Pillars; from whence they were taken I know not; but their worke speaks them Roman. Over the statues hang the Pictures, some Prototypes of the most famous men of the moderne times, on the one side Schollars, on the other souldiers.

At the right hand of this

gallerie are severall stanzas full of curiosities, into which who∣soever enters is astonisht at the quantity of wealth; confus'd with the variety of things worth observation.

In the first Roome we went into, stands the Tabernacle, or altar destinated for S. Lau∣rence Chappell, no part thereof of common Marble; but total∣ly compacted with Jewells and Precious stones; The value inestimable.

In the next Chamber is a Ta∣ble with Flowers, and Birds in their naturall colours of Pre∣cious stones, with a Cabinet priz'd at two hundred thou∣sand Crownes, coverd with Agaths, Emerauds, Anama∣thists, &c. Within is the pas∣sion of our Saviour with the twelve Apostles all in Amber.

In the third is a Cabinet with Calcidon Pillars, fild (as they told us) with ancient medailles of Gold; round a∣bout this Roome is an infinite number of Naturall and artifi∣ciall curiosities, as the Nalle turn'd halfe into Gold by Al∣chymy, The Emperours head on a Turqu'oise bigger then a Walnut, with thousands more. Next is the Armory, wherein are the habits, and diverse sorts of armes of severall ages, and People; amonst those, the King of China's habit, Hanni∣bals Head-piece of Corinthian metall, Charlemain's Sword; and an argument of the Italian Jealousie, an Invention to lock up female frailty. Here likewise is a Magnet which beares up fourescore pound weight of Iron.

In the last Cabinet we saw the curious Turnity of Ivory, a Pillar of Orientall Alablaster, &c. and from thence wee went into the Gardrobe, where are twelve great Cubbards of sil∣ver Plate, a service all of pure Massie Gold; A saddle which the Emperour gave in a present to the great Duke, all Embroy∣der'd with Pearles and Dia∣monds; These, with many other Particularities of this gallerie, (which might be a Theame copious enough to write a Vo∣lume on,) declaring the wealth of this Prince equall with any Kings in Christendome.

From the said gallery is a Cor∣rider; or private passage to the Palazzo de Pithi, on the other side of the river; where the Duke keeps his Court; The Front of this edifice is very

majestique towards the Basis of Dorick work, in the midst of Ionick, in the uppermost sto∣ry of Corinthian. In the Court is a Grotte with statues and a fountaine over it, yet that which is most wonderfull is the Loadstone of a most pro∣digious greatnesse.

Neither are the gardens to be omitted, which for their largenesse have the face of a Forrest, for their variety of a Paradise. Here Cypres groves, there Walkes with statues, here a Sea of Fountaines, there Swans, Austriches, and other recreative Creatures.

Being now on this side of the Arno, I will take notice of all I saw there before I returne to the other. And first there stands a Pillar, bearing on it the statue of Peter Martyr, in

the same place where hee was beheaded. Next on the wall of S. Nicholas Church, above a mans reach are these veses, signifying an inundation of the River.

☞ Fluctibus undisonis similis pela∣gique procellis. Huc tumidis praeceps, irruit Arnus Aquis, Prostravitque suae spumanti gurgite Flo∣rae. Opida, Agros, Pontes, Mae••ia, Templa, Viros. M DL. Id sept.

Going now back into the fuller body of the City, on the other side of the River; on the banck there is a Marble, which I found of no great con∣sequence, yet set by a Veneti∣an Embassador as a Monument to a horse there buried, which had done him good service in the siege of the City.

The Epitaph runs thus.

Non ingratus Herus (sonipes Memorande) sepulchrum Hoc, tibi pro meritis, haec mo∣numenta dedit.

Least I should dwell too long amongst these earthly de∣lights, wherewith Florence is fil'd, I will goe and meditate in the Churches; and first in the Dome, which I conceive either for the exquisitenesse of the worke, or worth of so vast a Bulke of Red, Black, and white Marble, to be the fairest Cathedrall without, that ever man laid eyes on. Its better part is the Cupola, so high that the brasse Globe at the top, is capable of holding sixteen per∣sons.

No lesse wonderfull is the Steeple, which without ex∣empt,

will yield to no other in the world, composed of the same stone and materialls with the Church, but with more art and ornaments.

Before the Dome is the Tem∣ple of Mars; built in an Octo∣gon; now cald S. John, or the Baptistary. The foure gates of Brasse, vvhich Ortelius prefers before any else in the world, the broken Pillars of Porphyre, the pavement, the old Grecian Pieces at the top, are things to be noted.

From hence wee went to see that mirrour of Art, and wonder of this present age, Saint Laurents Chappell, which is so glorious, that whosoever enters, will even imagine him∣selfe in some place above terre∣striall. 'Tis wholly overlaid with fine Pollisht stones, nei∣ther

is any colour upon Earth, but it is there in stones natural∣ly, all which I have been since told by diverse, (an argument of the great riches included in the Bowells of Italy) are dugg up within the great Dukes do∣minions. Round about this Chappell are all the scutions of the townes under the great Duke, in their proper Colours of stone. Above are Niches for the statues of the great Dukes. Beside them their Urnes. The intent of this whole sumptious Fabrick, being that it should successively serve for the Se∣pulcher of the great Dukes.

Saint Laurents Church and Convent joyne to this, where the Library fild with Bookes, all in Manuscripts is not con∣temptible.

Not farre from hence is San∣ta

Maria Novella; in the Court are two Marble Pyramids that stand on brasse Turtoises. Hard by is S. Maries Church be∣longing to the Jacobins, where on the North wall is the Tombe of Picus Mirandola, an eminent schollar, with this Epitaph.

Joannes jacet hic Mirandola, cae∣tera morunt. Et Tagus è Ganges forsan & Antipodes.

In the same Church is Poli∣tianus his Tombe subscribed thus.

Politianus in hoc tumulo jacet Angelus, unum Qui caput, & linguas, (res nova) tres habuit.

From hence I went to the Anunciade, and saw in the way the Fountaine of the Centaure.

The Anunciade is a place of great devotion, to a Madonna drawne by the hand of Saint Luke. In the Piazza before is the statue of the Duke Ferdi∣nand the first; on horseback in brasse, made by the same hand, with the former above mentio∣ned, so that there is little diffe∣rence betwixt them. Hard by are kept the Lions, and other wilde beasts; and a little far∣ther the Menage or Stables of the great Duke stord with Bar∣bary and other excellent horses, and as I remember, I never saw better horse then at Florence. On the wall of the Cavalrizza is this Inscription.

Franciscus Medices, Magnus Etruscor Dux 11. Quod No∣bilissimorum Adolescentium, qui equestri splendore se orna∣ri cupiunt. Imprimisque

Joannis fratris commodo fie∣re•• hunc in Equo se exercendi Locum extrui jussit, Rusti∣co Picardino Equorum Magi∣stro. M DLXXXVI.

Next to these though much distance, Santa Croce deserves seeing. Before it is a faire spa∣tious Court, in which (it being Carnavall time while wee were at Florence) we saw the play at Calce, with Cavalcades, shewes, and other assemblies of the No∣bility.

Within the Church is the tombe of that famous Statuary, Picturer, and Architecture, Michael Angelo, made by his owne hand; Over his Urne stand those three arts, hee was so renowned for with their instruments broken, bewail∣ing the losse of their Patron

underneath this Inscription.

Michaeli Angelo Bonerotio Evetusta Simoniorū familia. Sculptori, Pictori, Architecto. Fama Omnibus notissimo.

Leonardus Patruo amantiss: & de se optime meritro, Trans∣latis Roma ejus ossibus, atque in hoc templo Major suorum Sepul∣chro conditis, cohortante Sere∣nissimo Med: Magno Hetruriae Duce. P. 6. An. Sal: M DLXX. Vixit. ann. LXXXVIII. M. XI. D. XV.

To conclude my description of Florence, the houses are high built, the streets pav'd with great stones, even and long, many Fountaines, and o∣ther publick ornaments, decla∣ring the magnificence of the great Dukes. For eight mile round about the City there

seemes another Florence, so full are the fields speckled with Country seats. Neither are those delights to private men a∣lone, but there are likewise publike walkes, witnesse that of Pines two mile long: that of Cypresses leading to Poggio Imperiale, and many more.

Two miles up into the Nor∣therne Mountaines lies the old Fesuli, often spoke of amongst the ancient Writers, but now a poore Village, not having so much as the remnants of An∣tiquity.

In fine, there is no Province in Italy more furnish't with de∣lightfull, and well peopled Ci∣ties; then that of the great Duke, whose Ancestours ha∣ving united the States of three Common-wealths together, to wit, Of Pisa, Florence, and Sie∣na,

doth now entirely possesse all Toscany; the nobler part of Italy. The wife of this present Great Duke, Ferdinand the se∣cond of that name, comes from the Duke of Ʋrbin, of the fa∣mily of Rovori.

The Revenues of this Prince of Toscany exceeed yearly ten hundred thousand Crownes, which will amount to a hun∣dred thousand pound English, his ordinary guard is of Caval∣ry, and Infantry, with Ger∣mans very well equipag'd.

The Florentins have com∣monly notable head pieces, so that from hence spring notable Polititians, and States-men Machevil was of them, and 'tis said that three Embassadours from severall Kings, meeting accidentally on the way, prov'd in the conclusion to be all Flo∣rentins.

So soone as we had fill'd our selves with the sight of those many singularities, that are in and about Florence, wee set for∣ward for Siena.

Going out of Florence, at the Porta Romana, one leaves Poggio Imperiale a Villa of the great Dukes, which I had o∣mitted above. At the entrance of the walkes of Cypres, that leads to it are the statues of the Tybre and Arno; those of the famous old and new Po∣ets, Virgil, Ovid, Petrarche, and Dante. The house swarmes with rarities, chiefly with ex∣cellent Pictures, amongst them all the line of Austria, this great Dukes mother, who built this house, being sister to the Empe∣rour.

After wee had past by that, wee lay that night at a little

Bourg call'd Santo Cassiano. The next morning wee rode through a Village Barbarino, from whence the mighty stir∣ring family of the Cardinalls tooke their originall. Wee din'd at Poggio Bonci, a place noted for the perfumd Tobacco compos'd there; which the Italians through custome take in powder, as profusely, as we in England doe in the pipe. From hence in the afternoone we arriv'd at Siena.

Siena formerly a free State of it self, now subject to the Duke of Florence, stands aloft covering the back of a hill; so that in the hottest time of the yeare, this City is still refresht by coole gailes of winde; The ayre is very wholsome, much agreeing with the constitution of strangers, the Inhabitants

very curteous, a great deale suiting to the humours of for∣reigners, and besides the puri∣ty of the Italian Language, is here profest, and spoken; these and the like conveniences make it much frequented by Travel∣lers, and indeed mov'd us to settle our selves there, for some Moneths.

Here wee stayd not to see the rarities of the Place, which are not many in number; but to get some knowledge and pra∣ctise in the Vulgar Tongue, however Siena deserves a bet∣ter description then my pen can afford it; for neatnesse and gentility, yielding to no other in Italy.

At the entrance of the Porta Camulia, or di Fiorenza, onely the higher buildings are in view; but out of the Porta Ro∣mans,

the City seemes to raise it selfe with a great deale of Majesty; chiefly because of the many Towers it hath, which during the time of its Liberty, were rais'd in honour of such and such men as had done any worthy service for the Com∣mon-wealth, amongst these Towers which stand yet as signes of its formerly possest Freedome; that of Mangio surpasseth for height, which though its foundations be in the Bottome of the Piazza, yet outtops all the City besides, It serves now for the Clock-house; From above is a faire prospect even to the confines of Toscany, below at the foot of this hidious Structure, is a Chappell of Marble, where on set dayes Masse is said to the People in publick.

To this joynes the Senate house, built by the Goths, as some conceive by the manner of the Architecture. At one end thereof stands a Pillar, bearing Romulus and Remus sucking the Wolfe, in brasse, which are the Armes of Siena, an infallible argument of its Antiquity, and certainly di∣rived from the Romans, of whom this City was a Colony. There are frequently more of the like pillars about the Town upon one more decayed, then the rest is ingraved-Memores Huberum, old, very old La∣tine.

As for the Piazza, which lies in the heart of the City, I can∣not fancie a more pleasing or commodious Place; tis of a large Compasse, resembling (whether naturally so, or ar∣tificially

made so I know not) the fashion of a Cockle shell, in the midst is a Marble Fountaine of curious worke, wherein out of the Wolves mouthes comes water. This place is pav'd with the same materiall as all the streets of the City are, to wit, Brick; so that here and indeed throughout all Siena, in the fowlest weather one may walke as cleane as within dores. The houses are for the most part Brick, built alla Moderna, the chiefest is that of the Pope, and the Arch bishops, who is of the fa∣mily of the Picolominys.

In the Strada larga lives the Prince Matthias, the Duke of Florence's Brother, a man ve∣ry courteous to strangers.

Close by his Palace is the Dome, or Cathedrall Church of

Sienna, which though in com∣parison of others in Italy is but small, yet for the great tra∣vell and expence which it must needs have cost, tis inferiour to none, tis both without and within of Black and white Marble; The Facade is admi∣rable, garnisht with statues; About the inside are the heads of all the Popes; The Pulpet is an unparalelld piece, beset with figures of Marble. But that singularity which this Temple boasts of above all o∣thers, is the pavement, where∣on many parts of the sacred hi∣story are so lively represented in severall colours of Marble, as no pensill can come neere it, though many Masters take pat∣terne from those stones. Going up to the high Altar, at the left hand is the Library, painted

by Raphel d' Ʋrbino; On the same side is a Chappell, where∣in is kept the arme of S. John Baptist, which (as an Inscrip∣tion there manifesteth) was gi∣ven to a Pope by the King of Peloponesus.

Opposite to the Dome is the Hospitall, whither all Pil∣grimmes in their passage to to Rome, may come and take two or three meales gratis. In the Chappell lyes the body of their founder B. Susorius, as yet uncorrupted though nine hundred yeares since he dyed.

Going downe the Hill, from the Hospitall, one comes to the Ponte Brande, which is a reser∣vitoire of Fish, not so much for the publick use, as delight, or pastime.

Hard by is the House where Santa Catharina of Siena liv'd,

which, though a place of speci∣all devotion, yet not so fre∣quented as the Madonna di Pro∣venzana. From hence going up the hill, by the Dominicans one sees the Fortification, the onely defence of the City, and there by the Cavalrizza, whi∣ther in the sommer all the Gen∣try retire a Spasso.

The walls of Siena are of an exceeding compasse, yet but slight, coverd with Caper trees; that fruit growing best in that Soyle, to wit, Morter.

The Country about Sienna, principally towards the Marem∣mas or Marshes, is filld with all sorts of great Chase, so that wilde Boare, and other veni∣son in its season is sold in the Butchers shops, as commonly as other flesh.

In a word, I found Sienna the

most commodious place a stranger could pick out to live retiredly, and make his time beneficiall. Where after two moneths stay, having made some little progresse in the lan∣guage, the time of Easter oc∣casionly urging, together with good company, and the holy week, we set on for Rome.

About ten miles from Siena one goeth over a Bridge, whereupon is the Prince Mat∣thias his armes with this In∣scription.

Viator securus incede.

Ʋt expedita tibi ad Ʋrbem per Hertruriam pateret via, tri∣plicem, fluvium Assum, Ʋmbro∣nem, Ʋrcium, triplici poute sub∣egit Matthias Seress: Hetruriae princeps, Publicae securitatis vindex, invictus heros, nec ip∣sam aquarum licentiam errare patitur sine jugo.

Afterwards we past through Buon Convento, where the Em∣perour Henry the seventh dy'd by poyson, given him in the Eucharist. Din'd at Tornieri, In the afternoone past a faire Bridge, leaving at the right Mont Alcino, (auciently Mons Ilicinus) noted for the Musca∣tello, it produceth, past through San Querico; Lay at the next Post.

The next day about twelve miles from Santo Querico wee past by Radicofany; the last Fortification of the great Dukes Dominions situated on a steep rocky mountaine, be∣neath it is the Bourg: and a little lower one of the greatest Ho∣steries or Innes in the way to Rome.

That very high Mountaine which the vallie parts from

that of Radicofany, now cal'd Montamiata, was Tuniatus mentiond by Cato and Antoni∣us. From Radicofany we went to Centino, din'd there in the confines of Toscany.

In the afternoone went over a faire bridge of Brick, built by Gregory the thirteenth; Up∣on it a Marble speaketh thus.

Omnia dic laeto eveniant & Fausta Viator Gregorio, tutum qui tibi reddit iter.

Here begins the Stato della Chiesa, or Patrimony of Saint Peter: A mile farther is A∣quapendente, of which all the memoriall I could gather (wee onely passing through it) is a very ingenuous direction un∣der the signe of the Post-house, it runs thus.

L'insegna della Posta, e posta a posta In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua Posta. Ogn' un cavallo a Vetturi in posta.

From hence the way conti∣nues very even, till one comes to a rude and stony descent; downe into a valley, from the top of which is a most pleasant prospect, on the Lake of Bol∣sena, thirty miles in circuit; in the midst thereof are two little Ilands; In the one is a Convent of Capuchins, where those of the family of the Far∣nese are interd, the other not inhabited unlesse by Fisher∣men. At the side of the Lake stands Bolsena, on the ruines of the ancient Vulsinium, famous in the Romans time. Some mo∣numents

of its former glory, yet stand chiefly in the Court of Santa Christiana's Church, as an Ancient Urne, having Li∣ons heads, Cornucopias, Sa∣tyres, Furies, pieces of such art as now the world cannot imitate, besides this, there is a heathnish altar of Ophit stone, frequent pieces of Diaspre Pil∣lars; from hence wee may ga∣ther that the Volsinienses, were once splendid though now bu∣ried in their dust.

Distant from Bolsena seven miles is Monte Fiascone, in which way one passeth through a grove, wherein the ancients celebrated many Sacrifices to Juno.

Monte Fiascone was formerly the head of the Falisci, a re∣nowned people in old wri∣ters.

'Tis now spoken of for the delicious Wine, of which there is a common story, that a Ger∣man Bishop having heard much commendations of the wine of that place, sent his servant be∣forehand to trye for the best at all the tavernes in the Towne, giving him in charge, that where he found the best hee should write over the dore Est, Est; which he did, and having tasted, the Master approv'd his choyce, but in fine, he so filld his body with wine, that hee left no roome for his Soule; for he suddenly dyed, and was bu∣ried in Faviono's Church, his servant bewailing his losse; caus'd this witty Epitaph to be put upon his Tombe stone.

Propter Est Est, Dominus meus mortuus. Est.

Leaving Monte Fiascone, one goes downe into a plaine, wherein about two mile from Viterbo, on the right hand is a Sulphureous Fountaine, the water perpetually boiling. At the entrance into Viterbo is this Verse.

Ʋrbs Antiqua potens armis ac Ʋbere glebae.

In the Palace is this.

Osiridis victoriam in Gi∣gantes Litteris Historiogra∣phicis, in hoc antiquissimo Marmore Inscriptam, ex Her∣culis olim uunc Divi Lauren∣tii Templo translatam, ad con∣servan: Vetustiss: Patriae monumenta, atque decora hic locandam statuit. SPQƲ.

Sum Osiris Rex. Qui ab Italis in

Gigantes exercitus Veni, Vidi, & Vici.

Sum Osiris Rex.* 2.1 Qui terrarum pacato Italiam decem annos incolni, docens quorum inven∣tor fui.

The publick Fountaines at Viterbo are very Remarkable.

Without Viterbo are two wayes for Rome, the old which the Pope in the last diffe∣rence with the Duke of Parma, charg'd none should passe; the new by Capranica; wee desi∣rous to see the famous Palace of Capraroules, belonging to the aforesaid Duke of the fa∣mily of the Farnese, tooke the old way, which though lesse usuall, yet gives more satisfa∣ction

by the sight of that mag∣nificent Fabrick.

'Tis built in a Heptagon, or seven corners, before it is a Kingly Court, within, the Staire Case, In the Garden the Cata∣racts of water, are very admira∣ble: But that for w^ch this place is most spoken of, is the Sellar, which besides the amplenesse thereof, is as well stord with wine of all sorts, the Duke al∣lowing to all strangers that come to see his house, two, or three glasses of fresh liquor.

Hence, though late at night, we departed, and strooke again into the Via nuova, at Monte∣rose where we lay; From Mon∣terose to Rome, are twenty Ita∣lian miles, all which Countrey the Veientes anciently possest, a people that much hindered the growth of the Roman Empire,

of which take Florus. Hoc tunc Veientes fuere: nunc fuisse quis meminit? quae reliquiae? quod∣ve vestigium? laborat annalium fides ut Veios fuisse credamus. So that if in Florus his time, the memory of the Veientes was so extirpated, what signes or rem∣nants of them can we expect in this age.

Six mile beyond Monterose, upon the Via Cassia, stands Bac∣cano, and hard by, the Lake for bignesse not much exceed∣ing a Pond; yet noted for that memorable slaughter of the three hundred Fabii, which the Veientes hereabouts cut off in one day. There being but one child left at home, who af∣terwards restord his family, often serviceable to the Com∣mon-wealth.

After Baccano, there is a pas∣sage

through a wood (Maesia anciently) where heretofore a passenger could hardly scape robbing, but of late yeares the trees being cut downe tis free from danger. At the end there∣of from the hill, one may dis∣cerne that Mistris of the World Rome.

Which before I enter,* 2.2 I can∣not but premeditate on Saint Hieromes three wishes, which were, to have seen our Saviour in the flesh, to have heard Saint Paul preach, and to have seen Rome in its glory; which last, if ranged amongst the two for∣mer by so learned a Father, it must needs be one of the hap∣piest sights mortall eye could attaine to.

I must confesse the fame of Rome, which hath spread it selfe even to the most remote parts

of the earth; together with the small intelligence I had in those histories, that declare the greatnesse of that universall Monarchy, made my Idea of Rome to exceed that of all the world besides; yet again when I conceived, how all humane things are by succession of time subject to change; how at the fall of the Roman Empire this City was pillag'd by the Barba∣rous, how through the insati∣able fury of Nero, the fire de∣vour'd it, I imagind some lower fancy of Rome.

But in the conclusion, ha∣ving had a full ocular view thereof, I found that it flouri∣sheth beyond all expectation, this New even emulous to ex∣ceed the old, the remnants of the old adding to the splen∣dour of the new, both speaking it

—Roma triumphati Ca∣put Orbis.

'Tis so ample a Theame, that I grow almost confounded in going about to describe it, and indeed no man will take that taske upon him, that hath seen the diversity of Bookes, and Impressions there are onely of the things of Note at Rome.

One Volume of the Antiqui∣ties; Another of the Pallaces; a third of the Churches, a fourth of the Gardens; a fifth of the Statues; a sixth of the Fountaines; a seventh of the Villas; In a word, the Presse is burdened with nothing more then discriptions of Rome.

Wherefore I will briefly passe over what I saw, leaving the narration of each particu∣lar, To the Itinerario d' Italia; and the Roma Antica, and the Roma Moderna.

About foure miles from Rome, in the way that leads to Porta Del Popolo is Nero's Tombe, which because of the honour I owe not to the person the Tyrant, but to the Anti∣quity I will here put down ha∣ving never seen it in Print.

[illustration]

Neros Tombe

DMS KARISSIMA

This Sepulcher is of solid Marble, on it are engraven Dragons, Fame, &c. The In∣scription is hardly legible, one∣ly I could pick out Karissima with a K.

Within a mile and a halfe of Rome, we past the Tybre on the Mole, anciently Pons Milvins, where (besides the many noble exploits performed there by heathens.) Constantine the first Christian Emperour saw mira∣culously the signe of the Crosse, with the Motto, In hoc signo vin∣ces. After we were gone over that Bridge, wee came upon a very broad pav'd way, The Via Flaminia, which Flaminius in his Consulship continued sixtie miles, from Rome to Ari∣minum.

At the entrance into Rome, at Porta del Popolo, is a lofty Py∣ramid

coverd with Egyptian Hyeroglyfiques, which was heretofore dedicated to the Sunne, and stood in the Circus Maximus, but was thence trans∣fer'd, and placd here by Sintus, V. as the inscriptions under∣neath manifest* 2.3.

Hee that would see Rome may doe it in a fortnight, walk∣ing about from Morning to Evening, he that would make it his study to understand it, can hardly perfect it in lesse then a yeare. A man may spend ma∣ny Moneths at Rome, and yet have something of Note to see every day.

The first day we walkt to the Villa of Prince Ludovisio, which stands on the same Soyle, where that renowned one of Salust anciently stood, as one may collect from the broken

Guglia, one and twenty paces in length, which was rais'd in his Hippodromus.

The principall rarities in this Kingly place, are the tyr'd gla∣diator, Marc Aurelius, his head of Brasse that stood in the Ca∣pitol; The Oracles head of Porphyre with the mouth open, whereby the Priests spake, those for old; Among the new, the man Petrified which the Emperour sent to the Pope. A Bedstead built all of precious stones, to the valew of 80000. Crownes. A bed (as a worthy Knight then in our Company said) fit to get none but an A∣lexander the great upon. In the garden are two ancient Tombes, and sixteen round Vessells of stone, wherein the ancient Romans were wont to keep their Oyle.

The same day in returning to our Lodging, wee saw many Antiquities, Passing by Alta Se mita, or Mons Quirinalis by the foure Fountaines, which Lepi¦dus brought, we came by Monte de Cavallo, which takes its deno∣mination from the two Colosses of Alexander, menaging his horse Bucephalus, made in emu∣lation by the two famous Sculptures, Phidias and Praxi∣teles. The horse at the left hand of Alexander hath under it Opus Phidiae, that on the right, O∣pus Praxitelis. Constantin the great had these transported out of Greece, and plac't in his baths which were adjoyning, as the* 2.4 inscriptians underneath witnesse.

Afterwards wee past by the reliques of Antoninus his Basili∣ca, and saw* 2.5 his and Trajans

triumphant Pillar, the two most wonderfull pieces of Rome. The first which M. Au∣relius Antoninus dedicated to his father Antonius Pius, is 175. foot in height, and now conse∣crated to Saint Paul, whose statue of Brasse guilded it bears on the top, that of Trajan which (as the vast letters on the Pedistall lately discoverd de∣clare) was rais'd in honour of him by the Senate, after his death, returning from the Daci∣an warres, is a hundred twenty eight foot high from the Basis whereon it stands.

On both these two Ensignes of the Roman glory, are in Mezzo levato, all the adven∣tures and battailes of those two worthy Heros. The last of these Saint Peter now patroni∣seth, whose statue of Brasse is upon the Head.

On Palme Sunday we walkt to Monte Cavallo, a most sump∣tuous Palace of his S. to see the distribution of Palmes, and Olive branches to the Cardi∣nalls, with other Ceremonies of that day.

From thence we made a cir∣cuit through a part of old Rome, and saw first the Colosseo, or* 2.6 Amphitheatre which Mar∣tiall prefers before the seven wonders of the world, with

Omnis Caesareo cedat labor Amphitheatro.

This stupenduous Fabrick, which that Poet through flat∣tery attributes to Domitian, was began by Vespasian, and fi∣nished by Titus his sonne. A great part stands entire to this day, the rest (which I much merveile at) was demolisht for

to build two eminent Pallaces, that of the Farnesi and the Cancellario.

On one side of it is a ruine of the* 2.7 Meta Sudans, from whence sprang water, where∣with the Spectatours ref••esht themselves.

Hard by is thea 2.8 Arche Tri∣umphall of Constantin the great, rais'd in honour of him for his victory over Maxentius the Tyrant, at Pons Milvius, as the inscription on both sides de∣clares. In the Passage through on the one side is ingraven Li∣beratori Ʋrbis, on the other Fundatori Quietis. From this the via Appia began.

Opposite to this, is theb 2.9 Arch of Titus Vespasian, erected to him for his prise of Jerusa∣lem; In the work of this Arche is observd him riding in tri∣umph,

drawne in a Charriot by foure horses; on the con∣trary side, the Golden Candle∣stick, The tables of the Law, the Arca Faederis, and many o∣ther Spoiles taken out of the temple of Solomon.

Having gaz'd a little on these Marbles, which speak Roman History more palpably then a∣ny Author, we returnd home∣wards by Saint John Latran, saw the* 2.10 Obelisque, which with that before mentioned of the Madonna del populo, stood in the Circus Maximus, this is held to be the biggest of one stone (to wit, Ophit vulgarly granito, of which sort all the Pyramids here are) that ever came into Rome, there being a great ship made purposely for the Carriage.

It was transported by Con∣stantin

from Alexandria to Constantinople, by his sonne Constantius, from thence to Rome. In Egypt it servd for a Monument to the King Ramu∣sis, from which particulars one may gather that it hath above two thousand yeares, and yet by the preservation of Sixtus V. who plac't it here, it stands yet entire with Egyptian Cha∣racters upon it.

The Church of Saint John Latran,* 2.11 so cald from a Pallace of the Laterani, which stood there upon the Mons Caelius, is the Mother of all Churches, not for the Fabrick but Antiqui∣ty; twas founded by Constan∣tin; it would be too long a Subject to speak of all the par∣ticulars, I will onely name the chiefe, leaving the rest to the Prints in Italy.

At one end of the Porch, is the statue of Henry the fourth of France, who gave large re∣venues to the Church. At the high Altar the Pillars of Brasse are very glorious. Amongst the many sacred curiosities reserv'd here; first the Tombe of He∣len, Mother to Constantin the Great, foure pillars bearing a stone, which shew the measure of our Saviours height, the ta∣ble whereon the Souldiers cast Lots. Two Pillars of the vaile of the Temple wrent, The Pillar whereon the Cock crew, &c.

Without S. John Lat: On the one side is a little Rotunda, coverd with Lead, wherein is the Font, or Baptistarie of Con∣stantin, with the fairest Pillars of Porphyre in Rome. On the other is the* 2.12 Scala Santa, con∣taining

28. staires, that stood in Pilats house at Hierusalem, whereon our Saviour went and returnd whilst he was in his A∣gony, sweating bloud.

[illustration]

The Scala Sancta.

Above is the Sancta Sanctorum, and over it this verse.

Non est in toto sanctior Orbe locus.

'Tis credited that Helene sent them to Rome, with many o∣ther things of the holy Land.

The Popes Pallace of Saint John Latran, although not in∣habited, yet is no lesse maje∣stick then the others, wherein his S. keeps his Court.

Having seen all the things of note, within and about Saint John Lat: we took in our way homeward* 2.13 Saint Mary Mag∣gior one of the seven Churches; and for beauty the second in Rome; The two emulous Chap∣pells of Paulus quintus, and Six∣tus V. for the variety and pre∣ciousnesse of the stone, imitat∣ing the famous San Lorenzo of Florence.

Before the great Dore of this Church is a higha 2.14 Columne, taken out of the Temple of Peace, twas set up and dedica∣ted

to the Virgin (whose sta∣tue is on the top) by Paulus V wherefore it stands perpendi∣cularly on foure brasse Coqua∣trises, the armes of the Bor∣ghesi, out of which family came Paulus quintus. On the other side of Santa Maria Mag∣giore is a Pyramid not so large as the others translated thither from the Mausoleum of Augu∣stus.

In the afternoone wee saw little, onely tooke a slight view of the Campo Vaccino, fild with Antiquities; another day in the morning, we went to the Va∣tican; In the way is Pons Elius, now Del Castello Santo Angelo, so cald from the Castle of S. An∣gelo by it, which was anciently * 2.15 Moles Adriani. 'Twas built by Adrian the Emperour, as a Sepulcher for him and his Suc∣cessours;

and in regard it stands yet so firme and entire, tis re∣ductiuto the forme of a* 2.16 For∣tresse, wherein are kept the three millions of Gold, which money may bee employd on no use, unlesse to defend the State Apostolique, in point of armes.

From hence looking into the Tyber,* 2.17 one may discerne some ruines of the (a) triumphant Bridge, yet so little are the rem∣nants thereof, that tis hard to judge it to have been so glori∣ous as it was, however, tis said the Jewes offerd his S. fiftteen thousand Crownes, that they might turne the course of the Tybre for some Moneths, and have all they could find about this Bridge, In which I believe the Jewes would not have been loosers, it being the custome of

the ancient Romans, when they past over the Tybre in triumph, to fling in a part of their spoiles taken from their enemies, yet his S. would not assent there∣unto, least the turning of the river might prove prejudiciall to the City.

From the Castello Santo An∣gelo is a Corridor that goes unto the Vatican, the Popes winter Pallace, to which joynes Saint Peters.

Before these two prime stru∣ctures of new Rome; is a wide Court, in the midst whereof is an Esguile or* 2.18 Pyramid bore upon foure Lions of Brasse, which heretofore stood in Ne∣ro's Cirque, and was Dedicated to Julius Caesar, whose ashes were conserv'd at the top, where now the Crosse tri∣umpheth. This Pyramid bear∣eth

no Hierogly fixes as the o∣thers, but is more firme and to sight newer.

In the some Court is a Foun∣taine, from whence flowes a streame of water, and indeed throughout all Rome no street wants a publick Fountaine; wherefore, because they are so common I omit them.

* 2.19 Saint Peters Church, as Eras∣mus said of that at Canterbury, —Tanta sese Majestate in coelum erigit, ut etiam procul in tuentibus, Religionem incutiat. In a word, tis the most perfect modell of decent Magnificence in the world, there being an answerable Uniformity both within and without. The Fron∣tis piece is glorious with the Colosses of Christ, and the twelve Apostles, the Porch it selfe is ample enough to bee a

Temple; Entring into the Church one admires the work of the top, which is all of squares, Levati as they call it, after the same manner with the Pantheon. In the Cupola is re∣presented the Coelestiall Hie∣rarchy in pieces of Mosaick, so well that to all Beholders they seeme painted; In the Center of the Church stands the great * 2.20 Altar, the most singular piece both for the materiall and art that ever humane hand pro∣duc't, tis all of solid Brasse, ta∣ken from the covering of the Rotunda, and afterwards melt∣ed into so stupenduous Pillars, each one whereof weighes five and twenty thousand pounds, besides other diversity of Over∣ages, the whole so unpareld a worke, that tis fit to stand in no Cathedrall, unlesse S. Peters.

* The Vatican Pallace is such a Sea of lodgings, that tis said three Kings may at the same time have roome enough for themselves and followers.

In these large buildings are containd so many worthy Ra∣rities, as the whole world affords not the like; witnesse first that most famous Library of Chri∣stendom; The Vatican, wherin severall stanzas, or Centuries are most choise Bookes, as well Manuscripts as Prints. At the entranee into the Bibliotheque, are the two ancient statues of Hippolitus and Aristides; round about upon the walls, are pi∣ctur'd the generall Counsells.

Amongst other rare Manu∣scripts, which are to bee seen here, as Virgils, Terence, and many Roman Authors, written with their owne hands, there

are likewise (though of later Date) King Harry the eights Letters to Anne of Bulloyne, some in French, some in English; those beginning commonly with My Darling, or a lascivious expression, together with his Booke against Luther, which procurd him the Title of De∣fender of the Faith, and at the end these two verses written with his own hand.

Anglorum Rex Henricus Leo Decime mittit Hoc opus, & Fidei testem & amicitiae.

In the Opposite Stanza is the Palsgraves Library, taken at Auspurg, and sent afterwards as a present to his S. Here also is kept the true draught of Ma∣homets cheast. On the wall are picturd the machins, and in∣ventions

us'd in raising the Py∣ramid before Saint Peters with these verses.

Saxa agit Amphion Thebana ut Maenia condat Sixtus & inmensae pon∣era Molis agit.

Many other singularities are there in this Library, from whence passing through the Conclave, we went downe into the armory, which standing underneath, doth as it were support the Library, wherefore the Motto over the Dore is

Ʋrbanus VIII. Litteris arma, Armis litteras.

The Sword must uphold the pen, the pen the Sword. There are armes, and all accomplish∣ments for five and thirty thou∣sand Men, Horse and foot.

Next to these, passing through a long gallerie, where the Maps of the Provinces of old and new Italy are printed at large, we came into Belvede∣re so cald, because from thence one hath most parr of Rome in view; There are five gardens, some in Terrace, others low, in that of Belvedere, stands that vast Pine Apple of Mettall, which stood on the top of Mo∣les Adriani, with two Peacocks of the same materiall which stood on Scipio's Tombe; The other gardens are fild with groves of Orange trees, and ad∣mirable Fountaines, amongst which the artificiall Ship is most dilectable. In the last gar∣den in Niches, shut up are the best and most ancient statues of Rome, as that of* 2.21 Laocoon and his two sonnes, all of one Mar∣ble;

The Cleopatra, the Niobe, the Romulus and Remus suck∣ing the Wolfe; The Nilus, The Tybre, all famous pieces; the first to wit, Loacoon was found in the seven halls of Ti∣tus.

In the Vatican hall (the walls of which are of Marble) is pi∣ctur'd the Massacre of France, under one side Coligni & Soci∣orum caedes, on the other Rex Coligni necem probat. In the Vatican Chappell we saw the judgement designd by Michael Angelo, a piece which cannot be valued for its excellency.

After we had seen all the ap∣partements of this vast house, returning homeward, we stept into Santa Maria de Cavalli Scossi, where there is the stone on which Abraham offerd Isa∣ack, and another whereon our

Saviour was circumcis'd, with this which ad libitum credas.

Hic lapis est in quem Natum templo obtulit olim More Hebraeorum Virgo Ma∣ria suum.

In the next Church the Pil∣lars are reserv'd in wodden cases, which Saint Peter and Saint Paul were tyde too, and whip't.

In the afternoone wee walkt to the Emperour Justinians gardens, and going out by Por∣to del Popolo, just against the Pyramid upon the wall, I e∣spide this sentence, which in∣timates the inundation of the Tybre above the height of a man.

☞ Notas Quirite hic Imprime hic Tybris fui.

The gardens of Justinian

are not so full of delights, as throng'd with Antiquities, which are for the most part Urnes of stone, amongst which is Minu••ius Felix his; Here is besides the Emperour Justini∣ans Colosse, and the seventh of the termini or lapides that stood on the Via Appia, the first is in the Capitoll and none else to be found. There is a Vo∣lume out in print onely about this garden

From thence we went to the Villa Borghese Which without exempt may for all excellencies bee preferr'd before any other about Rome or in Italy; Before we came into the Parke, wee past through a little house, where the artificiall raine: with the diversity of waterworks, by putting on severall heads, on the same fountaine is very

ingenuous. The gardens and Parke want nothing which should make a man conceive himselfe in Paradise. Groves of Laurells, Pines, Cypresses, ••ame Haires, Deares, Peacocks, Swans, Feasants, and all recrea∣tions the world can afford. In the gardens the foure Sphinxes of ancient stone are to be noted. The outside of the house is a∣dornd with foure Frontis∣pieces of ancient Sculptures, in Basso Relievo, amongst which, Curtius falling into the Vorago, Europa beard away on a Bull, Leda suckt by a Swan are most exquisite; Within the house the Hall beset with Pillars of Porphyre, and other precious stone, Seneca bleeding to death of Jet; The great Diana that Pompey worshipt of Orien∣tall Marble, The Gladiatour

menacing the heavens, The Hermophrodite on the bed, and for new pieces the Daphny and David.

Another day, in the morn∣ing we lookt, into the Palazzo Borghese, hard by our lodge∣ing, which is one of the great∣est, and most royall about Rome; In the Court the Rowes of Marble Pillars and the Ar∣cades, are very magnificent, Here about where this Pallace stands, was the Campus Marti∣us.

From thence we went to the Palazzo Farnese, but in the way wee tooke a full view of the Rotunda, or* 2.22 Pantheon, the most absolute entire Anti∣quity in all Rome, which was built by Marc. Agrippa, and de∣dicated to all the Gods, and is now to the Virgin and all the Saints.

There was an Ascent into the Pantheon in the ancient times, but now one goes downe into it, (from whence I collect how the ruines of old Rome lay bu∣ried in the earth; besides, if there be any digging for to lay the foundations of a house in Rome, they still finde pieces of statues, heads of Pillars, and the like) yet for height it wants nothing of its first, and indeed to this day it seemes rather the worke of Giants, then com∣mon men. So vast are the thir∣teen Columns in the Porch, so stupenduous the Moles within, representing the world with its orbicular forme.

In the Porch is an ancient Sculpture of the primitive Christians, with this Inscrip∣on, which because tis not in the Prints I will not omit.

Auspiciis Eminentiss: Prin∣cipis Julii Mazarini Romani, S. R. E. Cardinalis hanc ar∣cam Marmoream Veteris ac Novi Testamenti figuris caela∣tam tanquam nascentis Eccle∣siae adversus Iconomicos Te∣stimonium.

Franciscus Gualdus Arimin: Eques Sancti Stephani tene∣bris in lucem.

Anno MDCXIVI.

Huc transferri ac veluti Tro∣phaeum erigi curavit.

From the Pantheon we went directly to the Palazzo Farnese, which glorious fabrick was rais'd out of the ruines of the Amphitheatre; for the commen∣dations of the Architecture, tis enough to say Michael Angelo had a chiefe part therein. Be∣fore it are two of the fairest Fountaines about Rome.

In the Court the Hercules, and the Flora, are very noted Statues. But that which surpas∣seth all Statues, not only here, but in all Rome (and if in Rome surely in all the world) is the * 2.23 Tauro Farnese; A Bull with a dog and five persons, every one bigger then the Naturall cut to wonder out of one stone, the worke of Apollonius and Tau∣riscus of Rhodes, from whence it was conducted and plac't in Antoninus his bathes, where it was dug up a hundred yeares since, as Intire as if made but vesterday; and now stands in this pallace astonishing all that behold it.

In the afternoone wee went to the Antiquities of the* 2.24 Ca∣pitol; At the foot of the staires, are two Lions of Ancient stone, w^ch stood before the Rotunda,

at the head, the statues of Ca∣stor and Pollux holding their horses; The Trophees of Ma∣rius, The Primus Lapis, with a Ball of Brasse on the top; In the midst of the place is the Marcus Aurelius on horseback, of Brasse, and underneath the Marforius, which because of the Posture, Combente, as those of rivers use to be, tis sup∣pos'd was made for the Rhene; Under the staires of the Senate house, is a Fountaine with the statue of Rome in red of Por∣phyre, having on the sides the Tigris, and the Tybre.

At the right hand, as one comes on the Capitall hill is the Conservatorio, so cald because most of the precious Antiqui∣ties are kept there;* 2.25 As one goes in,* 2.26 are the statues of Juli∣us and Augustus Caesar, the *

Columna Rostrata with an In∣scription of very old Latine; not grammaticall with ours, scarce the same Dialect.

C. Duilius exemet leciones. Macistratos. Castreis exfocient: Pugnandod. Cepet enque Nave∣bos. marid. Consol Primos or∣navet. Navebos Classeis Paenicus sumas Cartaciniensis. Dictato∣red. Altod. Socieis Triresmos, Naveis, Captom. numei. Nava∣led. Praedad Poplo.

In the Court is the hand and head of Commodus, his Colosse in Brasse, The foot and head of the Colosse of Apollo, of a most stupenduous vastnesse. A Pila, with the ravishing of the Sabins in Relievo, with Severus, and Mamea upon it. In the little Court going up the staires are foure admirable pieces of Basso Relievo of Aurelius his triumph.

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At the top of the staires the old Statue of Marius, a Table of Brasse with the old Lawes, in a gallerie hard by are the names of the Old and New Consuls.

The names of the Consuls when I was at Rome were these.

Primo Januarii: MDCXLVII.

• Petrus Prignanus.
• Julius Gironus.
• Vincentius Baccellia. Coss.
• Benedictus Masseius.

Within the Hall, and other Roomes of the Capitoll, are most worthy statues, both new and old, for New those of se∣verall Popes, for old those of Cicero; Virgil; The Hercules of Mettall, with the Lupus Fulmi∣ne tactus, and a hundred more things worth observation.

Upon this same Mons Capi∣tolinus, is a Church cald Ara

Celi, which stands on the same ground where the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus stood.

The next day in the morn∣ing wee went to the Palazzo Barberino, which I cannot say to bee inferiour or superiour to the others of Rome, for indeed the Pallaces of Rome are so ex∣cellent, that they will admit of no comparison amongst them∣selves, for in what one comes short of another in one particu∣lar, it outgoes it in some thing else.

The Palazzo Barberino is al∣wayes to bee reckond amongst the chiefe, whither for the Structure, or for the Rari∣ties.

In the Court lies a broken Pyramid. In the Galleries are admirable statues, and amongst them the old, old Egyptian

Idoll Osiris, of a black strange stone, the forme of it because I never saw it printed, I will not omit.

[illustration]

OSIRIS In Aed. Card. Barb.

Osiris implies the figure of an Oxe, yet blind Antiquity attributed any strange shape to that Liety.

From this pallace wee went up to the Via Pia, The first thing of note wee saw, was a Round Chappell, one of the Torrions of* 2.27 Dioclesians Bathes which are hard by, with vast Columnes and Fragments of Marble.

After that we stept into San∣ta Maria della Vittoria, where the Ensignes hang which were taken in Germany, to wit, the Crosse Keyes and the Miter, with the motto Exterpentur. Against this Church stands the famous Fountaine of the great Moyses striking the Rock, out of which gusheth water; The two Lions on each side were brought from before the Ro∣tunda. The Popes granaryes are hard by.

From thence we went to the Villa Montalto on the Viminal,

saw the Water workes, the Ci∣tron trees in great number, with thousand rarities. In re∣turning, wee saw the Church from whence the Arrians were expeld, together with the Villa Aldobrandina.

In the afternoone wee walkt amongst the Antiquities, and saw the Rupis Tarpeia, the Tem∣ple of* 2.28 Janus Quadrifrons, a solid square of Marble, with foure gates which represented the foure quarters of the yeare, or foure parts of the world. About it are many Nichi, wherein stood the statues of the Moneths, as some suppose. The place where this Temple is, was anciently calld Velabrum, or Forum Boarium, as the Arco Bo∣ario there standing by Saint Georges Church testifieth.

Hard by on the mount Pala∣tin

are the ruines of the* 2.29 Palaz∣zo Maggiore, or seat of the Cae∣sars.

The Valley betwixt this hill and the Aventin, was thea 2.30 Cir∣cus Maximus.

At the foot of the Aventin are Antoninus his Bathes. And on all sides fragments of Anti∣quitie, which shew that the Ro∣mans built to last unto eterni∣ty.

The sixth day in the morn∣ing wee went to Saint Peters, where wee saw his S. carried about in Pompe, with his triple Crowne, his breaking of the Toarch, with other Ceremo∣nies of the excommunication, and his washing of the Pil∣grims feet, to humble him∣selfe.

In the afternoone, wee walkt amongst some Antiquities, first

passing along the Tyber, wee saw the* 2.31 Insula Tiburtina, which was made of the wheat of Tarquinius his granaries, that was cast into the River af∣ter his banishment out from Rome; Secondly, thea 2.32 Bridge wheron Horatius Cocles fought, when he commanded his men to cut downe a piece, and to leave him to his enemies.

A little farther, by the Via Ostiensis is the Pratum, where they us'd their Olympick games; and in the same Medow is the Mons Testaceus so cald, because the Romans which in their Temples and Sacrifices us'd earthen vessels much, were wont to carry all their broken Pots to this place, which in time grew to such a heap, that at this day there is a high hill of Pot∣shares, from whence wee had a

full view of all the seven hills of Rome, to wit, the Capito∣line, The Pallatin, The Aven∣tine, The Celius, The Esqui∣line, The Viminall, The Qui∣rinall.

Against Testaceus in the walls of Rome, just by the Gate that leads to Ostia, is a huge Pyra∣mid of Marble,* 2.33 Cestius one of the rich Epulons Tombe.

On good Friday wee went to S. Peters, wherein his San∣ctities Chappell wee saw most admirable Representations. And there wee found opportu∣nity to goe into the Vaults, un∣der Saint Peters, where we saw diverse Sepulchers of the pri∣mitive Christians, that of Pope Adrian the fourth, an English man, of Porphyre. The Chap∣pell where the bodyes of Saint Peter and S. Paul were interd.

In the afternoone, wee went to the Campo Vaccino, but in the way stands Saint Pauls House, where according to the Acts,a 2.34 Paul dwelt two whole yeares in his owne hired house, &c.

Theb 2.35 Campo Vaccino was here∣tofore the Forum Romanum, fild with the best buildings a∣bout Rome, of which great rem¦nants are yet standing. Going downe into it from the Capitoll, in the wall towards the foun∣dations of the new Capitoll is some part of the old, of mighty great stones. On the left is the Prison anciently Tertullianum, now San Pietro in Carcere, be∣cause hee was there impri∣sond.

At the foot of the Capitoll is thec 2.36 Arc triumphal, of Septimi∣us Severus suppos'd to be the

first that was erected in Rome, amongst the worke upon this Arche is be seen the fashion of the Roman Aries.

The three Pillars which stand buried halfe way in the ground behind the Capitoll, are of the Temple of Jupiter stator.

The seven the Temple of Con∣corde.

The third in the midst of Campo Vaccino, The Temple of Jupiter tonant.

Hard by there is the Vorago, whereinto Curtius threw him∣selfe, and a good way towards the Villa Farnese, the place wher Remus and Romulus were found by Faustulus.

At the other end of the Cam∣po Vaccino, is the* 2.37 Temple of Peace, where Vespasian con∣serv'd that precious Treasury he brought away from Hierusa∣lem.

On the Palatin the Temple of Isis.

One morning we went to S. John Latran, where we saw the solemnity of a Moore, and two Iewes baptis'd in Constantins Baptistary.

From thence we went to the Villa Matthei, in the way runs Claudus his Aquiducts, and hard by is the Temple of Fan∣nus, a very entire Antiquity, now Saint Stefano Rotundo.

In the Villa Matthei there is an ancient Pila, a Pyramid, the Colosse of Alexander, things as pleasing to the judicious, as the other delights of the gar∣dens to the ignorant.

The same day about the Eve∣ning, we went to the Greeks Church where wee saw the Ceremonies of the Easterne Churches, and heard their Ser∣vice

all in Greek. On Easter day wee went to Saint Peters, to see the manner of his S. re∣ceiving the Eucharist: The rest of that day wee repos'd to fit our selves for the voyage of Naples, so that now after so satisfactory a sight of this Mi∣stris of the world Rome, we bid her adieu for a time, leaving what we now omitted till our Returne.

The voyage from Rome to Naples, though it bee the most dangerous passage in Italy, be∣cause the wayes are so throng'd with Banditos, yet in the up∣shot it proves no lesse requisite to mindes inquisitive in the Roman Antiquities; no lesse delightfull to men that would see the Wonders of Nature, then any other in Europe.

There is all the way so many

fragments of the Roman glo∣ry, that tis hard to judge whi∣ther Rome and Naples were once joynd together, or whi∣ther Pozzuolo was the Suburbe of Rome.

From whence wee set forth out of Port. Lat: anciently Asinaria; a mile out of the Ci∣ty there are on all sides pieces of Antiquity. On the right hand we left the Aquiducts of of Ancus Martius, and Claudius, with the new of Sixtus Quintus not so stately as the old, on which the Aqua Felice runnes sixteene miles. A little farther on the right upon the Via Ap∣pia, is the* 2.38 Sepulcher of Me∣tella Crassus his wife, now Ca∣po di buove from the Oxes heads of Marble upon it, with many more ancient Tombes.

Hard by is the Cirque of Ca∣racalla,

where lies the Pyramid that the old Earle of Arundell would have bought, but in re∣gard of the vastnesse, could find no possibility of conveying it to the Tyber, tis said the pre∣sent Pope after his Nephewes Pallace in Piazza di Navona is finisht, will erect it there in Circus Agonalis.

These and diverse more An∣tiquities we had in view, round about us, till wee came unto Frescati.

Where having dined, wee walkt up to old Tusculum, to see Ciceros house, where hee compos'd that immortall testi∣mony of Morality and learn∣ing, his Tusculans Qnestions. tis situated on the top of a hill two mile above Frescati; so that some give the Etemology 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 from 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 vexare,

because tis troublesome to goe up to.

Tullies house stands, that continu∣ally tis refresht with gales of winde, and hath on all sides a most pleasant Prospect, even to the Mediterranean Sea, it shewes it self thus in its ruines.

[illustration]

Jullies Jusculan House

In the ruine vnder the letter. A. was of late yeares found a treasure.

B. Tullies house whereof. 10. Vaults are yet very firme.

C. The place where his Piscina or Fish-ponde was.

The territorie of Frescati, as it was the ancient delight of the Romans, so it is as yet coverd with Gardens and Villas, about ten Cardinalls having their Countrey seats there. A place of such ravishing delights, as fit∣ter's for the Gods to inhabit then men. Such is the Quanti∣ty of trees, which keep perpe∣tually green, the murmuring of Fountaines and the like.

Amongst the the Villa's, the chiefe, and which wonderful∣ly declares the ingenuity of the Italians, is the Aldobrandina, which for divises in water is the first within or without Rome, I think I may say in the world. Quite through the garden, falls a Cataract, or deluge of water, towards the Embushment of which, stand two Serpentin Pillars of Mosaick, from the

tops of which, the water creeps downe; Below in the Court is that admirable Fountaine, in which is represented Atlas throwing up water, which forceth artificiall Thunder, and a perfect Rainbow; Whil'st the Elements seeme here to bee at difference; A Satyre blowes a horne lowder then I ever heard a man; And Pan in the Inter∣im, playes two diverse tunes upon the Organes: Things that strike astonishment to all the Spectators, which whoso∣ever they be, must looke to goe away wet to the skinne, as we did, and from thence went in∣to a place cald the terrestiall Paradise, and not undeserved∣ly; for as the other inventions are mov'd by water, so these goe by wind. At the end of it is fashiond a hill, Parnassus

whereon set the nine Muses with severall winde Instru∣ments that sound by art. Un∣derneath this hill are Organs, which plaid divers tunes so di∣stinctly, that wee conceiv'd some Master was playing on them, but looking wee saw they went of themselves, the cause of all this wee afterwards saw; In the midst of the roome, there being a Hole out of wch winde issueth, so violently, that for halfe a quarter of an houre it beares up a Ball.

Leaving Frescati, that after∣noone we past by Diana's Lake, and the wood famous for the fiction of Acteon. From thence wee had a woody and mounta∣nous way unto Veletri, where wee lay, Veletri heretofore be∣longd to the Volsci, and the an∣cestors of Augustus came from thence.

The best things to be seen in it now is the statue of Pope Ʋrban the eight, in ••rasse, and the publick fountaines.

The next morning having past downe the hill, whereon Veletri stands, wee came into a plaine Country, and din'd at Sermoneta, fifteen miles from Veletri.

In the afternoone, about three miles from Sermoneta, we past by a Tower, built on the top of a Rock, to defend the Country from Robbery, as they say, though I believe more to take money for passage, through the Gate below.

Five Italian miles farther, neere to the Casa Nuova, and casa Biancha at the foot of the hills, at the left are the Tres Ta∣bernae, or three Tavernes, where the Brethren met Saint Paul, in

his voyage to Rome; according to the Acts. They shew them∣selves in this forme now, & are indifferent entire, they being built as the other Fabricks of the Romans, of great stones and Bricks in Square.

[illustration]

Tres Tabernae mentioned Act: 28^th

Just before the Tres Taber∣nae are the Pomptine Fennes, and above, on a hill stands Setia, which Martiall saith

—Pendulam Pomptinos spe∣ctare campos.

That night wee lay at Piper∣no, at the Post house on the other side of the Hill; but be∣fore we there arriv'd, wee saw the Quarters of many Banditas hangd on the high way side, an argument of the great hazard one undergoes in this journey, if not a competent number to∣gether. Piperno heretofore Pri∣vernum was a City of the Volsci, noted onely for the Birth of Virgills Camilla, who came from thence.

The next morning leaving Piperno, wee past by a Convent, with a faire ancient Church cald Fossa Nova, where Thomas

Aquinas died, which Place was the Appii Forum. Likewise mention'd by Saint Luke, in his description of Saint Pauls voy∣age to Rome.

About foure miles farther, at a high Tower wee enterd upon the Via Appia, that Queen of wayes, which Appius in his Consulship▪ lead from Rome to Capua, and which Trajan af∣terwards extended to Brundu∣sium.

This street if I may so call it (the ruines of houses, Tombes, and the like on both sides of it, testifying the former beauty thereof) is compacted of such solid stones, that after so long a succession of time, neither the continuall passage of foote or horse, nor the inju∣rie of weather, hath yet con∣sum'd any part of it, unlesse that

which past through the Pomp∣tine Fennes which the water hath overflowde, the rest is very entire and firme, chiefly from this Tower to Terracina, where we dind.

Terracina was formerly Anx∣ur, as Livie hath it, Anxur fuit quae nunc Terracinae sunt Ʋrbs prona in paludes, it stands on the Cercean Promontory, according to that of Virgill

—Circaeumque jugum queis Jupiter Anxuris oris-Praesidet.

Upon which Servius in his Comentarie gives the dirivati∣on of Anxur, quasi 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 sine novacula, because that Jupiter imberbis was there worshipt; a part of which Temple yet stands in the walls of the Dome, as the vast Marbles and pieces of Pillars witnesse; Before it are some old inscriptions, with

a Pillar to Theodorick for ha∣ving dry'd the Fennes, and re∣newed the way; over the old Inscriptions are these new.

Inclyta Gothorum Regis mo∣numenta vetusta Anxurei hoc oculis exposu∣ere Loco.

The Old.

Imp. Caesar Divi Nervae Fili us Nerva Trajanus Aug: Ger∣manicus Dacicus Pontif: Max: Trib: Pot: XVIIII. Imp. VI. Cos. V. PP. XVIII. Silices sua Pecunia stravit.

TIT ƲPIO Aug:

• Optato
• Pontiano
• Procuratori ET
• Praefect: Classis
• TI Julius
• TI Fab—
• Optatus II. VIR.

From Terraccina to Fondi, are ten miles, which way lying in the Confines of the State of Rome, and the Kingdome of Naples, is the most dangerous part of all the voyage. From Terracina wee first past by the Emperour Galbas Villa; of which take Suetonius. Ser. Gal∣ba Imperator M. Valerio Mes∣salla, Cn. Lentulo Coss. natus est IX. Kal. Januarii in villa Colli supposita prope Tarraci∣nam sinistrorsum Fundos peten∣tibus.

Two mile farther wee came to a wall with a Gate, which is the entrance into the King∣dome of Naples, where on a Marble Table I read thus.

Hospes hic sunt Fines regni Neopolitani, si amicus adve∣nis pacatè omnia invenies, & malis moribus pulsis, bonas leges.

From thence keeping right on the Via Appia, plaine and even, wee saw many pieces of Antiquity, amongst which was an ancient Tombe, very en∣tire, but whose, tis not cer∣taine.

In this pleasant passage wee came at length to Fundi, where we lay that night.

Fundi, though spoild of all signes of its Antiquity, yet still keeps its old name, as Cicer: Atic.

—Fundis accepi tuasitt e∣ras caenans.

Tis scituated in a low plain, and as the Poet saith

Collibus hinc at{que} inde Lacu simul aequore cinctum Citria cui florent hortis è littore Myrti.

The Territoire about is ve∣ry

fruitfull of Orange trees, so much that wee went into an Orchard, and for twenty Ci∣trons & about thirty Oranges, wee gave the Owner a Julio, (that comes to an English six-pence) which very well con∣tented him, and I believe if we had stood to agree upon the price, wee might have had as many more for that money.

Over a gate on the left hand at Fundi, is this old Inscrip∣tion.

EnVmmis Fronius LF DEC∣TIEN C. Lucius, M. F. M. Runtius, L. F. Mess. Aed: Portas, Turreis, Murum. Ex SC. Faciund: Coerunt Eis∣demque probarunt.

Neer to Fondi we saw the Mons Caecubus noted amongst the ancients for the good Wine it

bore, as Martiall saith.

—Caecuba Fundanis genero∣sa coquuntur ahenis.

The next morning insi∣sting yet on the Via Appia; which though mountanous in that part, yet hath on both sides Myrtles, Bayes, Locusts, Pomegrannets, and such like Verts, that grow wild in the Hedges, we came at length to an ancient Torret, built halfe of solid Marble; which after little examination wee found to bee Ciceros Tombe, his Villa Formiana famous for his Slaughter, being there; Tullie••s Sepulcher is now in this figure. As in the page follow∣ing.

[illustration]

Jullies tombe at his Vida Formiana

This Tombe stands in an Olive garden, and at that instant when we rode by, a labourer working there, dug up two old Coines,

which some of our Company bought. From hence we were in view of Cajeta; Of which Virgil saith,

Tu qoque littoribus nostris Aeneia Nutrix Aeternam moriens famam Ca∣jeta dedisti.

The City lies in a Peninsula, very strong, and hard to come to by Land, but over a narrow Isthmus.

The mountaine cleft in sun∣der by an Earthquake (which commonly happen in the King∣dome of Naples) is very hidi∣ous. The Inhabitants beare a great reverence to this place, for that they believe it happen∣ed at the same time when our Saviour was in his Passion.

In the Church hard by the Trinitate, amongst other things

to be seen, there's the Corpes of the Duke of Bourbon in a wodden Chest, who was kild in attempting to surprize Rome; His Epitaph is thus in Spanish.

Francia me dio la luze Espanna m' esfuerzo y ven∣tura, Roma mi dio la muerte Gaëta la Sepoltura. France gave me breath, Spaine strength to Armes did call, Rome gave me Death; Gajeta Buriall.

In the great Church at Gaie∣ta is a huge Crater or Bowle, now put to the use of a Font, which was dug up out of the ruines of Formia. The worke so good that the Sculptor was not asham'd to put his name to it; for thereon is this.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

At Gajeta twill quit the paines of climing up the Pro∣montory, to see the Mausole∣um of L. Munatius Plancus, one of Ciceros Pupills, a most entire Antiquity; over the dore may plainly be read.

L Munatius L. P. L. F. L. Pron. Plancus. Cos. Cens. Imp Iter. VII. Vir. Epul. Triump. ex Raptis. Aedem. Saturni fecit de Manubiis. Agros. Div. Sit. in Italia. Beneventi. In. Gallia Colonias deduxit. Lug∣dunum & Rauricam.

From this a Chronologer may collect, it is of neere one thousand six hundred yeares standing.

The Countrey from Mola to

Gajeta, containes more Orange trees then any I know, except Naples it selfe.

A little farther, about a mile from Mola, Formiae anciently, a Marble on the Via Appia speaks thus

Plautius Theodo Pil: Apella Magister Augustalis Plautiae A. L. Rufae ConLibert. Con∣cubin. Piae Plautiae Aug▪ L. Faustae Libert.

That day wee dind at Mola, where there is to bee seen Cice∣ros Grote, in which he wrote many of his familiar Epistles.

In the afternoone eight miles from Mola, we came unto Gari∣gliano, where the famous City Minturna stood, as a very en∣tire Aquiduct, an Amphithea∣tre, with many other ruines te∣stifie.

Having past here the river Liris, that terminated old Lati∣um we came into the Medowes of Minturna, where Marius hid himselfe in his flight from Syl∣la; at the end of those fields runs along, Mons Massicus, so renown'd for the wines it pro∣duc't, tis now cald Garo, and from thence the river Liris, Garigliano, adjoyning are the ruines of Senuessa, as Martiall

—Et Senuessanis venerunt Massica Praelis.

That night wee lay in Ager Falernus, at a Village calld S. Agatha, at the bottome of Sessa, formerly Aurunca.

The Ager Falernus is all that space of ground, which lies be∣twixt the Mons Massicus, and the River Vulturnus, so that be∣cause of their affinity, Vinum

Massicum and Falernum was us'd promiscuously by the An∣cients.

The next morning, we past by Torre di Francolesse, where Hanniball being besieg'd by Fa∣bius Maximus, escapt through that famous stratageme of ma∣king his enemies drunke.

Two mile farther, wee came in view of that happie Plaine of Campania, now Terru di La∣voro, which most Authors, as well Moderne, as old, extoll for the most fruitfull plat of earth, that is in the Universe. In a word, twas the Subject of Virgils Georgicks.

In which having rode five miles, wee came to dinner at New Capua, which though so cald in regard of the other, yet hath some remnants of Anti∣quitie. In the Cloister of a

Church, are some Ancient Tombes.

In the midst of the City, at the entrance as I suppose of the Jesuites Colledge, is this old Inscription.

Julio Auroxonti Leonidae. Ʋ. C. Quaestori Praet. Curatori Capuensium Ob multa praecla∣ra in cives patriamque Hono∣ri Licentiae suae merita Insti∣tutori Novorum ac Renovato∣ri Operum Publicorum. Ab origine Patrono omni laude dignissimo Regio Competi.

The old Capua, the delight of Hanniball, and Paragon with Rome, and Carthage is two mile off out of the way, on the left where the ruines of Columnes, Theatres, Temples, Porches shew its former Magnificence. From Capua to Naples, the way

is even, spacious, and like a gar∣den, tis indeed Campania. The fertility of which is such, that if the owner have not as much Wine out of one Vine, as will load five Mules, he thinkes his labour ill spent, an incredible, though true argument of the fruitfullnesse, of this Countrey. In the mid-way stands An∣versa, and eight miles farther Naples.

This Metropolis of that Kingdome,* 2.39 which takes its de∣nomination from thence, is a Maritimate on the Mediterra∣nean shoare.

Tis ancient, though Neapolis, and was first cald Parthenope. At this present tis reckond the third City in Italy, and so great are the delights which nature hath allowed to this place, that tis still frequented by men of

high condition, and great per∣sonages, so that it hath taken the Epethite, Naples the Gen∣tle.

The streets of Naples are ge∣nerally well pav'd of free∣stone, especially that of Toledo, very large and even. Which in∣deed is necessarie, here in re∣gard of the multitude of Coaches that passe to and fro. The Houses are very uni∣forme, built flat, at the top to walke on, a notable conveni∣ence in these hot parts.

Another like accommodati∣on which this City hath, against the heats is the Mole, which is like an Artificiall street casting it selfe into the Sea, hither all the Gentry at the evening re∣tire to take the Fresco.

At the end of the Mole is the Fanal, and underneath a foun∣taine,

with the statues of the old Dieties of Parthenope.

From thence one hath in view the mountanous Iland Capreas, the delight of Tybe∣rius.

Amongst the Palaces of Na∣plee, the Vice Kings then Duca d' Arcos is the fairest. There are three Castles, S. Elmo above, Castel nuovo, Castello del Ovo below. The Churches are ge∣nerally the best I ever came in∣to, fild with Marbles, chiefly the Carthusians, the Jesuits, the Bishops Chappell.

The onely Antiquity within the City, is at the Theatins Church, which was a Temple of Castor and Pollux, the Fron∣tispiece, or Porch of ancient Pillars, with a Greek Inscrip∣tion over it (which Language this City spake when it was

cald Parthenope) as likewise the remnants of their two Sta∣tues yet standing; The Inscrip∣tion is this.

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

It beiug May while we staide at Naples, We saw the famous Miracle of the bloud of Santo Gennaro, carryed in processi∣on.

Naples is extremely popu∣lous, and consequently vitious, he that desires to live a retired, or indeed chaste life must not set up there; as the gardens are fild with Oranges, so the houses want not for Lemmon.

Jusque datum Sceleri, saith the Poet.

There were at my being there thirty thousand Courtesans Registred, that paid taxes for their pleasure.

The things within Naples, are not to be omitted, yet those about give farre more satisfa∣ction; and truly if a traveller Hyperbolise in any part of his voyage of Italy, the most fit Theame he can take, are the Wonders a little distant from Naples; and first the Tractus Puteolanus scatens hominum ac naturae miraculis.

Parting for Pozzuoloes, on the left a Suburb by the Sea side leads to the Margouline, where in the Church cald San∣ta Maria Del Parto, is the Se∣pulcher of Sincerus Sannazari∣us, with many figures of Mar∣ble

excellently cut, and this Epitaph.

Actius. Sincerus. D. O. M. Da Sacro cineri Flores, Hic il∣le Maroni, Sincerus Musa Proximus ut tumulo. Vix: Ann. LXXI. Obiit MD XXX.

A Countreyman of ours in honour to that worthy Poet, hath left this paper of verses beside his Tombe.

Sonulus hendeca-Syllabicus Rithmicus. Valum Nobile par brevi Ca∣moena Longum mensus iter; Fleam necesse Quorum fertur oves? ita iste flesse.

Ʋt narint lachrimis & uda Avena Seu pisces, lepida sed ille vena Tam pisces cecinit probe atque presse Se tanquam placidos ut ipse adesse Cura praestiteriut oves arena Partum Virginis unus arte rara In sanctos rotulos modosque cultos Alter quem memorant Sybillae ad ar•• Annos Vaticinatus ante mul∣tos Quid mirum est igitur jacere clara Ambos Virginis Ʋrbe Conse∣pultos. Ad Aras P. Virgilii Maronis, &c.

Act: Sin: Poetarum Prin∣cip: Hugo Hollandus Nobilis Cambo Britannus. Flevit Fixitque Autore vero egregio & amico Alexandro Hebruno Nobili Anglo Bri∣tanno.

1626. Mart. 5.

Returning back a little, wee came to the entrance of the famous Grotte, over which on the left hand, stands Virgils Tombe upon a high rock, so that it is scarce to be seen by those that passe below, The Guides commonly shewing a false; wherefore some few dayes after we walkt up into it.

Over the Dore of the Gar∣den you passe through to it, is

this Inscription on a Marble.

Maronis Ʋrnam.

Cum Adjacente Monticulo, extensaque ad Cryptam planitie. Modiorum trium cum dimidio circiter Ʋrbano VIII. annuen∣te, &c.

Renovanda Mem. Praesentis Concessionis singulis XXVIII an∣nis in actis Cur Archiepiscopalis.

Having read this we went into the Tombe, now of this Forme and scituation. As in the page following.

[illustration]

A. Virgills Tombe▪ B. The entrance into the Grotte C. a little chappell taken for Virgills Tombe, but falsely.

This Tombe of the Prince of Poets is built in a Rotunda, or Cupola, about five paces long, within, the walls are of Bricke, in square after the Roman way,

the outside is of Massive stone, all coverd now with Bushes, a∣mongst which three or foure Bay trees, (an immortall Em∣bleme of the Prince of Poets there interd) shoot forth about the height of a man, round it lye scatterd ruines, that testifie its former beauty, In the rock just opposite to the entrance, where his knowne Epitaph of Mantua me genuit was, that be∣ing decayed, is plac't a Marble, stone with these verses.

STAĪSI Cencovius. 15 89 Qui Cineres? Tumuli haec vesti∣gia, conditur olim Ille hoc, qui cecinit pascua, ru∣ra, Duces, Can: Rec: MDLIIII.

What dust lies here? this Heap protects his Hearse. Who whilome warbled Fields, Farmes, Fights in Verse.

The Crypta Neapolitana a perfect signe of the Roman Magnificence is the rockie Mountaine Pausylippus, cut through, very high, spacious▪ and well pav'd, so that for the space of a mile, two Coaches may goe on Front under earth▪ in the midst is a Madonna, with a Lampe perpetually burning, the words at the Incounter are Alla Marina, Alla Mon∣tagne.

At the going out of the Grot∣te, wee strooke towards the right, and arriv'd at the Grotta del Cane, which hath some in∣nate property, to kill every living thing that enters, if not

speedily cast into the lake Agna∣no, 15. paces distant. We saw the experiment, (as for the most part it is shewn) in a Dog, which seem'd to loose his vi∣tall force by degrees, but after∣wards being throwne into the Lake, reviv'd.

Hard by are the Stowes of San Gennaro reasonable hot, with the odour of Sulphure.

Hence turning to the left, we came to Capuchins, and saw the stone whereon San Gen naro was beheaded, with Nasita a Mountaine in the Sea, and a little towards the right hand, is the Sulphatara, or hill of Brimstone, on which no grasse or hearb growes, but tis all white with ashes, it still cast∣ing out of severall holes a con∣tinuall smoke, with Flame, ma∣king the very earth to boile.

The ground is hollow under∣neath, and makes a hidious noise if strooke upon with a Hammer, or the like. These hills were cald by the ancient Leucogei; Campus Phlegraeus, and Forum Vulcani, whose Kingdome (if in any part of the world) is here about, the Fire breaking out even in the high wayes. Here they com∣pose Medicinall Pots of Brim∣stone.

Advancing forward, into the Suburbs of Pozzuoles, wee saw an Amphitheatre, and Ci∣ceros house, cald Academia.

Afterwards being come to the Port, wee tooke a barque, to passe over the bay, which is round about, fild with rem∣nants of those Romans magni∣ficence, that liv'd there.

The first place wee saw after

wee were set to Land, was the Mercato del Sabbato formerly a a Cirque; and the buriall place of the ancient Romans.

From thence we past through the Elisian Fields (as they call them) a plaine spot of Earth, between the Mount Misenus, & the Augustins Convent of twen∣ty Acres, and came to the an∣cient Misenus, so cal'd from the Trumpeter of Aeneas there interd, the old Poets cald it A erius, because of the many Sotteran Caves in it; of which many are yet to be seen.

The chiefe is the Piscina Mi∣rabili; before which is the Mare Mortuum. This Piscina cald mirabili, because of the wonderfull art tis built with, was a reserver of fresh water for the Navie, which, (because this stands so neare the Sea) was

brought sixtie mile. It hath eleven Pillars in the length, foure in breadth, about foure and fourty in all. The materi∣all tis plaisterd with, in the in∣side is as durable as stone, yet no man knowes of what it is compos'd, some conceive it to be of the whites of Egges, and dust of Marble mingled toge∣ther.

From hence leaving Lucullus his house at the left, wee went downe into the Cento Camerel∣le, or Nerôs hundred Cham∣bers, where hee kept his Priso∣ners, a most hidious place.

Below that towards the Sea∣side is the Temple of Hercules, the place where Agrippina, Ne∣ros Mother was kild, the Pes∣cheries of Hortensius, Tacitus his sons house, with many other ancient fragments which we

saw though with much paines.

From thence we tooke boat for Baia, where the Castle built by Charles the fifth of France is strong, going thither we could discerne the foundations of Cimeria, and old Baia under∣neath the Sea, with the Via Consularis overwhelm'd by the water, and on the shoare nothing but ruines.

Hereabouts Caron was feign'd to passe with his Boate. Here we set againe to Land, and saw the Temple of Venus, the Se∣pulcher of Agrippina, with di∣verse figures, and her Pallace of the same worke. The Tem∣ple of Diana at the left, the Bathes of Trullius; The houses of Marius Pompey, Nero standing aloft.

Hereabout the Sea water is naturally hot: Hard by we went

into Ciceros Bathes, as gallant and entire an Antiquity as any in the Tract of Pozzuolo; These waters were so soveraigne, not many years since over most dis∣eases, that over every Bath was written for what cures it was good, of which Inscripti∣ons some letters yet stand, but the Physitians of Palermo (as they tell the story) finding those waters prejudiciall to their cu∣stome, went with instruments expresly, and demolisht those writings (so that for the present they are unusefull) the said Physitians, being all cast away in their returne.

From these Bathes we went up to the Stowes of Tritola ex∣treamely hot, even to Suffoca∣cation, yet contrary to the Grottadel Cane, that choking below, and harmelesse above,

these coole and refreshing be∣low, but almost stifeling a∣bove.

From thence we took horse, and past by the Lacus Lucrinus, the greater part whereof is now coverd with the Monte Nuovo, which mountaine (as their tra∣dition is) was rais'd in one night, a mile high, from the ashes which came out of Sul∣fatara, and so coverd the Lu∣crin Lake. Tommaso Fonnare an old man of Pozzuolo, that dyed three yeares since remem∣bred of that mountaines being made in one night a hundred yeares agoe.

After that wee rode to the Lake Avernus, where abouts was the Poets Acheron or de∣scent into hell, at one side of the Lake is the Temple of A∣pollo; at the other, the Sybilla

Cumanas Grotte. Tis very spa∣cious, at the end is a Magnificent ascent where the Oracle stood, with the way that lead to Cuma, Her bath yet stands, and her Chambers painted in Mosaick worke, yet all under ground, as indeed most of the aforesaid Antiquities (excepting the Temples) are.

In returning to Pozzuolo, we saw the Mount Gaurus, from whence came the best Falernum, now cald Barbaro, it being al∣together sterile. In Puteoli there are some Antiquities, as the Temple of Neptune, &c. In the Port are the vast ruines of Cali∣gulas Bridge, which past three mile crosse the Sea, from Pozzu∣oles to Baia.

After dinner wee went back to Naples, In the way wee saw the Lions, Austriches, and o∣ther

wild beasts and fowles, that a certaine Prince keeps.

Having repos'd a day after this troublesome, yet satisfacto∣ry voyage of Pozzuoles, the next morning wee set out of the quite contrary part of Na∣ples, to see that Miracle of Na∣ture, the Brother of Aetna, Ve∣suvius, so famous for its last e∣ruption.

On the way, almost at the foot of the mountaine, (a Mar∣ble frame which are usuall on the high wayes, in the King∣dome of Naples) relates this.

Posteri Posteri Vestra res agitur Dies facem profert Dici nudi∣us perendino Advortite. Vicies ab satu solis ni fabula∣tur historia

Arsit Vesevus Immani semper clade haesitan∣tantium. Ne posthaec incertos occupet. Ʋterum gerit Mons hic mo∣neo. Bitumine, alumine, Ferro, Sul∣phure, Auro, Argento, Nitro, Aquarum Fontibus gravem. Seryus, Ocyus ignescet, pela∣goque influente pariet. Sedante parturit. Concutitur, concutit{que} solum, Fumigat, coruscat, Flāmigerat, Quatit aerem. Horrendum immugit, boat, tonat Arsit finibus accolas Emica dum licet. Jam jam inititur mixtum ig∣ne lacum evomit Praecipiti ruit ille lapsu Seram{que} fugam praevertit

Si praeripit actum est periisti. Ann: Sal. M DCXXX. XVI. Jan Philippo IV. Rego. Tum tu si sap is audi clamantem La∣pidem Sperne Larem, sperne Sarcinulas, mo∣ra nulla fuge. Antonio Suares Vice Praefecto viarum.

The Vesuvius shewes it selfe thus from Naples.

[illustration]

The Mountaine Vesuvius

Upon this Hill, or (chang∣ing a Letter) Hell is a goodly Countrey for the space of foure mile on all sides, which former∣ly produc't the excellent Graeco, made barren, being coverd with a matter like Seacole Sin∣ders. Going up higher tis hidi∣ous to behold the deep cracks in the Earth, through which the streames of Sulphure past, all about lyes scatterd the se∣verall materialls it cast forth; Some like mettall, other like Pitch, Brimstone and the like, with such vast stones, as (I speake the least) foure porters would not able to carrie one of them

Being come so neere the top, as we could with our horses, we were forc't to alight, and to crawle up the steeper part, which is all coverd with a red∣dish

substance, that sounds like earthen vessells, some conceive it to be Pumie stone burnt, after this wee got up though weary to the top; where the Vorago is so terrifying a spectacle, that if I would paint Hell, this would be the best Patterne; It is a hole about three mile in compasse, and about halfe as much in depth, in the midst is a new hill that still vomits thick smoke, which the fire within hath rais'd within few yeares, it daily in∣creaseth, and when tis growne to a fuller Bulke caveat Neapo∣lis.

Pliny the Naturalist too In∣quisitive after the cause of this intestine fire chang'd lives with Death on this Mountaine.

In returning, as we were tir'd in getting up, so wee went ea∣sily down, though almost up to

the knees in ashes.

This Mountaine was the Ʋl∣tima Meta of our voyage to Na∣ples, wherefore having with much content seen these won∣derfull things of Antiquity, Nature, and Curiosity; after some few dayes we parted from Naples to Rome, treading the same path we had before trac't, At our going out of the King∣dome, they made us pay five times, for our Vallees, although they could finde no prohibited goods; At our entrance they let us passe quietly, without paying a farthing.

All the way to Rome I saw nothing observable, but what I had before spoken of, onely I would not omit the great quantity of Bufferos (Beasts which furnish the Souldiery with their skins) that we met in the Countrey.

The day after our returne to Rome, wee walkt to San Seba∣stiano, where a mercenary Fry∣ar let us downe into the Roma Sotterranea, or Rome under ground, those hallowed Ca∣vernes where the Church in her Infancy shelterd her selfe from persecution; there is a most im∣mense Folio out on this Subject. Tis now indeed a City for the Dead, where in every street are pild gradually one above ano∣ther, the Corps of Martyrs, to which some Monuments are added with no other Epitaphs then this, Pro Christo.

This place is as stupendious for the rarity as venerable for the Antiquity: The natives of Rome know not how farre these Vaults continue under the Earth; yet some miles they say are already discoverd, with so

many Maeanders, that hee who adventures to enter without an experienc't Guide may (as some French men did) goe into his grave living, yet increase the Bill of Mortality.

From thence wee went into the Transtevere, saw first Mon∣torio, formerly the Janiculum, and the Chappell where (ut aiunt) Saint Peter was crucifi∣fied. In the Church lies buried the Count Tiron Oneille of Ire∣land, who comming to Rome in devotion dyed, very poore, yet for his good service in the Catholique Cause, hath a Tombestone with this Inscrip∣tion.

D. O. M.

Roderico Principi Odonallio Comiti Tironalliae in Hibernia, Qui pro Religione Catholica Gravissimis defunctus periculis.

In Sago pariter & in Toga, Con∣stantissimus Cultor, & defensor Apostolicae Romanae Fidei, &c.

From thence wee went down into many rich Churches, where the Primitive Christians were martyrd; In one to wit, Santa Maria Transteverana is the Fountaine of Oyle that arose, at our Saviours birth; Some stones that were tide at the Mar∣tyrs feet when they were drown'd, with other manner of Torments that they were put to; In the same Church are ve∣ry rare pillars of Porphyre, and other stone taken from Aureli∣ans baths. Thus every day pro∣duc't a new sight to us, but I would not passe by our Voyage to Tivoli, which was as follow∣eth.

Setting forth out of Rome, at Porta di San Lorenzo five miles

from the City, we saw a Bridge over the Teverone, built by Ma∣mea, the Mother of Severus; A little forwarder the Sepulcher of Valerius Volusi, and ancient Tombes without number; On farther theres a place cald Fide nates, and a Sulphurious River, A Bridge cald Ponte Lucano, and an ancient Tower garnisht with Inscriptions, that stands for the Sepulcher of Plauti∣us.

When wee were come to Ti∣voli, wee went to see those won∣derfull Eliziums, which the Cardinall d' Este at most Roy∣all expence hath there in pos∣session; the sight whereof in my Opinion, may at this present draw as many to see Tivoli, as Rome with all her Merveiles.

This shall be my patterne for a Countrey seat; All Regale,

and therefore I'le not omit any Particular.

First tis evident, the Hill was made even, and upon that Pi∣azza this Pallace was erected; which is built of square stone, and all things answerable to a Kingly Grandezza.

At the right hand are those Gardens which they call the se∣cret, in which there are sixteen huge Lavers of Marble, that cast forth Chrystalline water, in the midst of these stands a Ja∣nus Quadrifrons higher then those, which makes foure more fountaines that resemble Look∣ing Glasses.

At the left there's a sumptu∣ous Place for all manner of Exercises, or Turnaments. The Facciata or Front hath between the Windowes many ancient Statues, and so the first Porch

with most ample steps in the as∣cent to the Palace.

Before this, theres a most glorious Fountaine, with the Statue of Leda; And foure vast and most delicious gardens in view.

Passing down the steps which have Piles of Water on both sides, amongst the Groves theres these Fountaines of Tethys, Es∣culapius, Arethusa, Pandora, Po∣mona, and Flora. Afterwards theres the stately Pegasus in Pamossa. The two Colosses of the Sybilla Tyburtina, and Me∣licerta. The Cupids powring water out of their Flaskes are most ingenious, next there are some Urnes, upon which stand ten Nymphes, and in the midst the Caves of the Sybilla, Tiburtina, and Diana, God∣desse of the Woods. Both a∣adornd

with fountaines, sta∣tues, Roots of Corall, Mo∣ther of Pearle, and pav'd with Mosaick worke.

On the other side of the Gar∣den sets Rome triumphant, in the midst of her most Memora∣ble Fabricks, as the Pantheon, Capitoll, Cirques, Theatres, Amphitheatres, Obelisques, Mausoleos, Archs Triumphall, Pyramids, Aquiducts, Porti∣cos, Thermas, and the like. Nei∣ther is the River Tyber want∣ing; for out of the Wolfe and Twinnes gusheth a Rivolet, proportionable to that Repre∣sentative City.

In the next garden theres the Ʋccellario, where amonst the Branches of Trees, Artificiall Birds move their Wings and sing sweetly; on a sudden an Owle appears, and they change

their Melody into a chattering admiration.

Not farre from thence is the Fountaine of Dragons, which vomit forth the water with a most horrid Noyse.

The Grotte of Nature where the Organs play most harmoni∣ously by the motion of Water. In the garden that followes are diverse Lakelike conservatories of Fish, with Swans, here the Mete Sudanti, the Ocean with Neptune in his Charriot on Sea Horse are most stupenduous. In the last the Triton and thou∣sand exotick Plants are to bee seen.

Tyr'd with these Master-Pieces of Art, wee went to that Naturall Cascata, or Cataract at Tivoli, which is made by the precipitious fall of the River Anien from the Mountaines, it

rusheth downe with that Fury, that there is still a thick mist o∣ver it, and by the Reflexion of the Sun ariseth a perfect Rain∣bow.

Pliny mentioneth this River to have that Innate Quality to Petrifie the ground it passeth through, or any thing that lies long in it. The Sulphurious streame I above mention'd flowes from this.

Neere to this is an old Tem∣ple, some say of Hercules, others adjudge it to the Sibylla Tybur∣tina, or Albunea, and the more propable, for Tivoli was anci∣ently Tybur. Horace and many of the Roman Magnates had their Villas here, of which they shew their Ruines, as likewise the Sybilles Cave.

Returning for Rome, one may discerne Preneste, and a

little out of the way, on the left stands a huge moles of An∣tiquity, the Villa Hadriana, the heap rather of a City then a House, tis reported hee had there the most eminent build∣ings of the World taken from the Originalls, but

—Jam seges est, ubi Troja fuit.

I have been long in the Trans∣action of these things, in and a∣bout Rome, and now end some∣what abruptly, the diversity of things, makes my memory trea∣cherous, I can onely say

Roma Capo e Compendio del Mondo A cui non e cosa simile ne se∣conda. Rome of the world Compendi∣um and Head Admits no like, nor can be se∣conded.

The heats growing on at Rome, wee left it to set up our station for the Summer at Sien∣na, and having already seen Caprarola, wee went with the Procacccio, so that passing to Viterbo by the Strada Nuova, wee saw some remnants of the Via Cassia, with Soutry where Orlando Furioso was borne, and the ruines of Gharlemaines Pal∣lace.

At the great Inne at Radico∣fany, wee met the Marquis de Fontenay, the French Em∣bassadour in his voyage to Rome.

A week after our arrive at Si∣enna, was an Opera represented on the new Theatre of Prince Matthias, with severall changes of Sceanes, as a Garden, Sea, Pallace, and other Machines, at which the Italians are spoke to be excellent.

All the time of our stay at Sienna, I fild my bookes more with observations of the Lan∣guage, then of the people, Ci∣ty, or Country: Onely the di∣versity of fruits which are eve∣ry day brought to Market; and sold at a low rate, argues much the fertility of Italy, as well as the great quantity of silke it produceth, and therefore de∣servedly cald Bombycina; In June was the silke Harvest, If I may so call it, and there was such abundance, that in England I never saw so much Woole, as I did here Silke.

The ninth of July the Sanesi∣ans solemnizd a feast, but sore against their wills, for Cosmus the Duke of Florence's taking Sienna.

In August on the feast of the Assumption of the Virgin, was

a Race of Barbaries, which ran without Riders from one gate of the City to the Princes Pal∣lace, for a Pallium of Cloath of Gold.

The same Moneth wee went to the Jewes Synagogue, and saw the Circumcising of a Child. Which the sacred Page describes.

September the seventh wee set from Siena, to begin our returne towards France, our first dayes journey reacht to Florence, where tarrying one day, the next wee parted with the Pro∣caccio for Venice, paying seven Crownes a man.

Six miles up the Apennin we past by Pratolin, a famous seat of Pleasance belonging to the great Duke; and about as ma∣ny miles farther wee dind at Il Ponte, before which lies a most

delicious Valley, environd with very high mountaines.

After dinner, about two miles farther, wee past through Scar∣peria, from whence we mount∣ed more and more up the Apen∣nins, The way in some places but streight, & on the right hand is a very steep Precipes down to the plaine below. All that af∣ternoon we rode up and down hills, which are as much fruit∣full, as barren, and at night we lodgd at Fiorenzuolo, a For∣tresse which stands in the midst of the Mountaines, at the con∣fiues of the great Dukes Terri∣toire.

The next morning depart∣ing, long before break of day, (as the Procaccios in Italy usu∣ally doe) we perfectly discernd the flame of Pietra Mala, a Mountaine at the highest part

of the Appinines, which perpe∣tually burnes.

All that forenoone wee had a tedious passage through the Chesnut woods, till wee came unto Pianora, where having dind, by a suddain descent pas∣sing a Torrent divers times, wee s••nk into the fertile and plea∣sant plaine of Bolonia, and so to the City it selfe, where we pre∣vaild with our Conductor, to stay the rest of that day, and halfe the following, that wee might take a more full view of this famous City of Bolonia, the second in the Stato della Chiesa.

It is situated at the foot of the Appenins,* 4.1 the neighbouring Countrey producing so great a∣bundance of things necessarie to humane life, that it hath got the name Bolonia the Fat.

For strength it is not much considerable, there being but a single wall without Bulwarks, Ramparts or the like, Tis a fit∣er habitation for the Muses, then for Mars, the fame of that University which flourisheth there, making this Motto com∣mon, BOLONIA DOCET.

Amongst the things I tooke notice of at Bolonia, the first is the generall uniformity in the buildings, there running be∣fore all the houses, a very stately Cloyster, with Arches all of the same structure, so that a large street appeares one building, which manner though it differ from the ordinary Italian way, yet is no lesse admirable

Amongst other faire edefices of this City, the Popes Pallace very spacious, is chiefe, over the Gate is the statue of a Pope in mettall.

Before this Pallace is the Pi∣azza, as remakable as most in Italy: In the midst stands a ve∣ry sumptuous Fountaine, where the Brasen Neptune made by John of Bolonia, a famous Sculp∣turer is very considerable, at one end of this Place is the Do∣me, not yet finisht.

The great Schooles are said to be as stately as most in Eu∣rope. And likewise the Hospi∣talls are worth seeing The Con∣vents at Bolonia are generally very glorious, especially S. Dominick, and out of the Town S. Michael in Bosco.

In briefe, the Bolonians agree with the other Italians, in ha∣ving their houses built decent∣ly, and in their Courts, still have some Verts set, as Orange trees, Cypresses, or the like, which much pleaseth the eye

of a stranger, as he passeth the streets.

In the heart of the City, stands the Tower of the Asinelli: (cald so from a Family that rai'sd it) some making Bolonia to represent the forme of a ship, set this for the maine Mast. It is growne somewhat to decay through time, and the staires are very rotten, however, wee adventurd to goe up to the top, and from thence wee had a full view of the Towne below, with the streets lying in a straight line, as likewise a faire Prospect on the plaines of Lombardy.

On one side of this Tower, is another cald Garisenda, which seemes to fall much after the manner of the Campanile, at Pisa, some impute it to the Architecture, others say it was

of the same height with that of the Asinelli; but the Citizens fearing it would fall, pull'd downe the upper part, and left the rest standing crooked, as at the present it doth.

This is the summe of what I saw in Bolonia, yet berore I went from thence, I tooke a taste of those famous Saltsages, that are compos'd at Bolonia, the which are transported thence, not onely into other places of Italy, but also into diverse parts of Europe, as a rare and costly dish, which addes and maintaines her Epi∣thite Bolonia La Grassa.

Leaving Bolonia for our more free entrance into the State of Venice, wee tooke a Bill of Health.

The first day we past the Ca∣nall, that goes to Ferrara, ha∣ving

our boate drawne by a Horse, in which way we went through about nine Sustegne, Machines not much unlike our Sluses, to keep up and let down the water for the turning of all sorts of Milles, and the passage of Boates.

Towards Evening wee past by Bentivoglio, a Castle that gave denomination to the lear∣ned Cardinall of that name.

Some two houres later, wee came to Mal Albergo, an infa∣mous Inne, both in name and in deed, where having poorely supt, wee imbarqu't in ano∣ther lesse Boate, and having past all night through the fennes, The next morning we arriv'd at Ferrara.* 4.2

Ferrara heretofore a Dutchy by it selfe, yet now subject to the Apostolique See, is more

considerable for strength, then beauty, however it is in Italy, and therefore (secundum nos) no meane City.

Its scituation is on a plat, so that by it runnes two Channels, the one towards Bolonia, the o∣ther towards the Po, it is forti∣fied with very faire Ramparts, upon most of which are planted Allies of trees.

Within the Towne are some faire buildings, as the Palazzo del Diamante, belonging to the Duke of Modena, the Castle where, in the Court are pictur'd the Dukes of Ferrara, and tis said that at the last, there was no Roome left for another

Before the Pallace are two small Statues of a Marquis, and Duke of Ferrara; many other things are observable, as the Epitaph of the famous Poet

Ariostus, and of many other famous men buried there, which my short stay would not admit me to collect.

Our Inne was the Angelo (a too sumptuous edifice to have been made a Taverne) where having dind, wee went by boat downe the Channell, and about three mile beyond Ferrara came into the Po, which is the great∣est and farthest navigable river in Italy, for breadth and length much above Tyber it selfe; the ancients cald it Padus, the Po∣ets Erydanus, on the Bankes whereof they feignd that, Io transformd into a heifer was want to feed.

About evening wee came on the confines of the Venetian ter∣ritoire, and supt at Corbua, a place three miles distant from that most ancient, yet now de∣jected

City Adria, which for∣merly gave the name of Mare Adriaticum, to the Sea now cald the Golfe of Venice.

Three miles farther, wee changd our Barke for a bigger Vessell, to carrie us to Venice, and having now past thirty miles on the Po, we came sud∣denly by an artificiall cut into the River Adice (Athesis in La∣tin) that passeth by Verona; and the next morning, about the opening of the day, wee enterd into the Golfe, pas∣sing by Chioza, a City in an Island on the left, Palestina on the right, with other Islands that lay rang'd in a row to Ve∣nice it selfe, where, wee arriv'd the twelfth of September; and being come to the Port, wee (as the custome and order is) were not permitted to set foot

on shoare, on paine of death, till wee had a ticket of licence.

Venetia,* 4.3 is a word never heard of in the Romans dayes, the originall of this name being not above thirteen Centuries of yeares since, yet Historians ge∣nerally report, that at the de∣cay of the Roman Empire, when the invasion of the Hunns and other Barbarous Nations overspread Italy; Some provi∣dent Fishermen began to build Cottages in those scatterd I∣slands, and in processe of time, others for their better security retyr'd thither: From this poore, and low beginning (imi∣tating her elder sister) is shee growne to that height, that all deservedly call her Venice the rich.

This very mirrour of State and Policy, as shee was borne

about the death of old Rome, so shee seemes ro bee hereditarily Possessour of that which main∣taind Rome in her soveraigne glory; The magnificent Genius of the People, the Gravity of the Senate, the solidity of her lawes, very much consonant with those of Rome.

Hence Venice hath this pro∣priety above all other States; that she is a Virgin, (a cōmodi∣ty rarely found within her self) and more, from her first Infan∣cy, Christian: having never yet fell from her principles, either in Government, or Religion; but still valiantly defending her Liberty against the insulting Mahomet.

Besides the wise and Judici∣ous Potentates, that strengthen this Common-wealth, Na∣ture hath fortified her with a

strange and unusuall scituati∣on

—Mediâ insuperabilis undâ.

Environd with her embracing Neptune; to whom, (as the Ceremonie of throwing a ring into the Sea implies) she mar∣ries her selfe with yearly nupti∣alls.

Hereupon our English Marti∣all admiring the scituation of the Magnificent Venetians City, sayes to them

Quid mirum est vestram consi∣stere Legibus Ʋrbem Legibus exleges cum tenea∣atis aquas. No wonder if by Lawes your City stands, Since out-law waves are chain'd to your Commands.

If some casuall necessity did not constraine men to build Ve∣nice,

I could never conceive how so stately Pallaces, how so compacted a City should stand in the midst of the Sea.

The particularities whereof are these. I may begin with the Piazza San Marco, the Center whither an infinite number of Persons, from divers parts of the world in diverse habits; still tend: The Platforme there∣of somewhat resembles a Car∣penters

[illustration]

square, the uniformity in the buildings, and other embellishments, speaking it the fairest in Italy, I thinke I may say in Christendome.

At the end just before the Chiesa San Marco, are three Standards with Pedestalls of Brasse, very exquisite worke.

At the right side from these, is the Clock-house, adorn'd

with the signes of Heaven, with the Sunne and Moones moneth∣ly entrance to them, and two Statues of Brasse that strike.

Saint Marks Church is not so admirable for vastenesse, as for the rarenesse of the designe, and precious materialls it is compos'd of.

The whole facade, or Fron∣tispiece, is beset with Pillars, of Serpentine and Porphyre, to∣wards the top stand foure horse of Brasse, most worthy Tro∣phees, taken (as some say) by a Stratageme, out of Constantino∣ple. And first stood in an Arch-Triumphall at Rome. Amongst the imagiry worke on this Church, there stands a woman stroking a Dog; The Venetian Annals mention the story, of a Senators Daughter, who (her Father altogether, de∣priving

her of society with men) had a prodigious Birth by that over familiar Play-fel∣low.

For the inward part of this Temple, It is a little obscure within, yet most richly wenes∣coted with Marbles, and the whole top coverd with lively pieces in Mosaick worke: An Art lost or unknowne in these parts, and highly valued there.

Neere that Church gate, that lookes into the Sea, is a little Chappell, and therein is an ill hewd image of the Lady, made (as their Tradition goes) out of the same rocke, which Moses strooke when the water mira∣culously gushed forth; And to make good this story, they shew three little holes out of which the Fountaine came forth. Some probability there

may be of this, an old and now scarce legible Greeke Inscripti∣on, on the same stone beginneth thus—

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉.

And underneath these Latine words,

Aqua quae prius ex petra mi∣raculosè fluxit oratione Prophe∣tae Moysis, producta est, nunc autem haec Michaelis studio labi∣tur, quem servas Christe & Conjugem Irenem.

The construction is dubious the lines verbatim, as there I found them.

In this same Church is kept with great reverence, the body of the Cities Protectour Saint Marke, whose winged Lion with the Motto, Pax tibi Marce E∣vangelista

meus, is the Banner and Armes of this Common∣wealth, In honour of this Saint, here is likewise conservd a most inestimable treasure.

To this Cathedrall Church joynes the Dukes Pallace whol∣ly of Marble, with a Kingly Arcade of three and thirty Pil∣lars, under which, tis a most comely sight to see the Veneti∣ans in their long Gownes, daily consulting of State affaires.

Just against the great Gate, at the top of the steps, stand two Colosses, the one of Mars, the other of Neptune, works of fa∣mous Sansovinus. Opposite to these staires is a Facade of Sta∣tues, both ancient and mo∣derne.

Above is a most royall Cor∣ridor; wherein are divers Tri∣bunalls, or Courts of Justice,

and higher are most gallant as∣cents into the Senate house, and other sumptuous Halls.

Below in the Court, in going out, I observd the mouthes of two Wells in Brasse, of very sin∣gular art.

On the other side of the place is the Zecca, where they coine money, and the Procuratorio; on the top of this structure stand five and twentie Sta∣tues.

On the seventeenth of Sep∣tember, whilst wee were at Ve∣nice, there was a new made Procurator, (the second man in the Republick) enterd into his office, at which solemnity wee saw the Senatours in their robes of Scarlet, Damaske, three hun∣dred most grave, proper per∣sons, every one speaking him∣selfe no lesse then an Embassa∣dour

in his deportment.

The following morning, the Secretarie of the State, of the Family of the Tommasini, for appearing a favourite to some Banditas, was privately strang∣led, and his body afterwards hung up in the place of execu∣tion, which place brings mee againe into my description, it being Between the two Pillars that stand towards the Canale della Giudeca. These two Co∣lomnes were brought out of Greece, on the one stands the Statue of Sanct. Theodorus, with the Crocodile, on the other Saint Markes Lion of Brasse.

This is the summe of what is to be noted within, and about the Piazza San Marco, yet be∣fore I leave it, tis worth the paines to get up Saint Marks steeple, which stands by it selfe,

eightie feet distant from the Church.

From thence one may dis∣cerne how the City lies compa∣cted of many little Islands, separated by Channells, joy∣ned by Bridges, the number whereof, if well reckoned up, comes to foure hundred and fif∣ty, and the greater part of stone. The fairest and most remark∣able is the Bridge of Rialto, which, though but of one Arch, yet for the height, length, and breadth, hath no where a pa∣rell.

Upon it stand twelve shops, at each side coverd all alike with lead, and behind magni∣ficent Balustrades. This Bridge passeth over the Canal Grande, along which are the most state∣ly houses in all Venice.

It is a most satisfactory

sight to behold the Corso in this Channell, every Feast towards the Evening, to see the Ve∣netian Ladies habited like Nymphs, and the Gondola's like so many Daulphines run∣ning a race. These Gondolas are Boats, which because of the little use of walking a foot there, are still carrying some passenger one way or another. Every noble Venetian keeps one of these Seacoaches for his family, and others there are to be hir'd by any man for mo∣ney very genteel and commodi∣ous.

Hence one may easily conje∣cture how populate Venice is; for the number of Gondolas is 40000. so that in case of neces∣sity; the Boatmen would make a considerable army, for every Gondola hath a Rower, and the

better sort too. And now I am on the water, before I set foot to land, I may visite some of the neigbouring Islands, and first Murano a mile distant from Ve∣nice.

Here continually (excepting in August and September) are Fornaces to make Glasses, which for the variety of the worke, and the Chrystall sub∣stance, exceed all others in the world, and are transported to all parts: out of which mer∣chandise Venice drawes infinite summes of money.

In returning wee stept into the Arsenall, The Magazine and store-house of Warre, Mars his warehouse. In this place the Republick hath all ammuniti∣on for Sea and Land, all instru∣ments of offence and Defence, all preparations for shipping so

ready, that tis said they can raise a Gally in foure and twen∣ty houres, and though the late approach of their common ene∣my the Turke, hath much im∣poverisht this Arsenal, yet the daily labours of Artisans that worke there, still restore it.

The next day wee went to the Greek Church, where at their service in their owne tongue, there was a great Con∣gregation, who us'd more Ce∣remonies, but lesse superstiti∣on then the Church of Rome, which calls the Greeks Schis∣maticks onely, because they differ not much in exteriours from them; but will not ac∣knowledge the Pope to bee head of the Church.

Neither have the Orientall Christians alone this Liberty at Venice, but Loyalas Sonnes be∣ing

exild thence, the Inquisiti∣on reacheth not so far as stran∣gers, which made us Hereticks (as they call us) thinke wee were come out of the Land of Bondage, to a more secure Country.

The day following wee made a Gondola carry us over to San Georgeo, an Island with a most beautifull Monastery; The Chappell is pav'd (as generally they are in Venice) with a red∣dish Marble, About the Coire are very rare Statues, and in the Cloister, sits Venice Triumphant.

From thence wee went to San Giovanni e Paulo, more in devotion to the living Ladies, then to the dead Image there worshipt.

This Place is much frequent¦ed by the Venetian walking May Poles, I meane the women,

which gives mee occasion to speake of the common habits or fashions of Venice.

The Citizens rich and poore follow all the same Mode, viz: A long black gowne with wide sleeves, and a kinde of skirt to throw over one shoulder, the collar alwayes open, and a Black Cap edg'd with Fringe of Wooll.

The Ladies have found out a devise very different from all o∣ther Europaeian Dresses. They weare their owne, or a counter∣feit Haire below the shoulders, trim'd with gemmes, and Flow∣ers their Coats halfe too long for their bodies, being mounted on their Chippeens, (which are as high as a mans leg) they walke between two handmaids, majestickly deliberating of e∣very step they take.

This fashion was invented, and appropriated to the noble Venetians wives, to bee con∣stant to distinguish them from the Courtesans, who goe co∣verd in a vaile of white Taffe∣ty. These fashions, because they are not so variable as ours, I have here inserted.

Before the Church I last men∣tioned, San Giovannie Paulo is a Cavalier, or horseman in Brasse, with these words.

Bartholomeo Coleono Bergo∣mensi ob militare Imperium opti∣me gestum S C. Joanni Mauro, & Marino Venereo Curatoribus An: Sal: Mcccclxxxxv.

This is the chiefe of what I observ'd in three weeks resi∣dence at Venice. As concerning the trade, or traffique of this City, shee is without Doubt, Mistris of all others; it is shee

that makes rise or fall the Ex∣change at her pleasure.

And this I imagine proceeds from the great and innumerable company of Jewes, that are har∣bourd here, and that enjoy the Priviledge of a Synagogue for every Nation; so that in their Guetta they have nine diverse ones, yet weare they a Badge of distinction, viz: a Scarlet hat. The shops at Venice are most richly furnisht with Easterne Merchandize, as Sattins, Da∣masks, Cloaths of Gold, with a world of costly Drugs, which word intimates I must hasten to the Medicinall Padua.

From Venice to Padua, be∣cause of the convenient passage by water, is one easie dayes jour∣ney.

About five miles from Venice wee came to Liza Fusina, where

the continent or firme Land beginnes, here one finds com∣modity of going either by Land or Boate, wee tooke the latter; a most delightfull Spasso on the river Brenta, which runnes in so direct a line, that one may see its course foure miles be∣hind or before one, on both sides is a garden-like countrey, and a multitude of Villa's, or Countrey houses, with Gar∣dens of Orange trees, and o∣ther greens after the Italian way. At the close of the even∣ing wee arriv'd at Padua.

Patavium was founded,* 4.4 long before Romulus suckt the Wolfe, Tis reported that Ante∣nor flying with some force into these parts, after the destru∣ction of Troy began this name and city; to confirme this, they yet shew this Noble Heros

Tombe, with this Epitaph in old Characters.

Inclitus Antenor Pat: &c.

The words are these.

C Inclytus Antenor Patriam Vox Nisa Quietem, Transtulit huc Henetum Dar∣danidum{que} Fugas, Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit Ʋrbem; Quem tegit hic humili mar∣caesa Domus.

The Monument whereon these verses are ingraven stands by S. Lorenzos Church, in this figure. As in the page follow∣ing.

[illustration]

Antenors Tombe 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

Not farre from this Marble Chest, are some remnants of the walls that Antenor laid; For the city is divided into the old, and the new, the old hath round about it the river, both are en∣compast

with strong Bull∣warkes, upon which are plant∣ed rowes of trees, very plea∣sant to walke amongst, though they quite hinder the view of the city a farre off.

Neither indeed (I must con∣fesse) doth Padua abound with stately houses, like the other chiefe Cities of Italy, yet those renowned disciples of Aescula∣pius that are nourisht there, make it to be said both at home and abroad, Padua the Learn∣ed.

It stands in a most delicious and fertile Plaine, which pro∣duceth so great abundance of things necessary to humane life; that the vulgar Proverb goes Bolonia la grassa ma Padoua la passa.

By reason of this plenty of provisions, and the daily pra∣ctise

in Physick, and the other liberall Arts this city is no lesse frequented by strangers, then Athens anciently was.

And indeed those who have been students at Padua, have reason to commend the place, for by the Senate of Venice's constitution (under whom Pa∣dua is) every Nation, English, Dutch, &c. hath a Consul, en∣joyes many Priviledges, and by their matriculation may lay in provisions, without paying any excise or taxation.

This liberty is very preva∣lent to draw Forreigners thi∣ther, yet the ill Government of the Schollars there much dis∣swades others from likeing the place.

It is strange to finde Minerva so joynd with Mars, to see stu∣dents in so warlike a posture, for

the common mode of the Schollars is to goe arm'd with a paire of Pistolls, and a Stilletto by his side, this they say pro∣ceeds from some old and inbred dissentions between the Vicen∣tines and Brescians, which two parties so fill the towne with slaughter, that no man can walke the streets late at night for fear of their Chi-va li? and which is a more manifest signe of their Barbarismes on the Pillars of the Porch, or Arches that runne before the houses of this city, one may discerne where Bullet have past; nay, so triviall is homicide amongst them that if at any time they want a body for the Anatomy Lecture, they make it a small bu∣sines to kil a poore fachin, or por∣ter to put his body to that use.

Notwithstanding these grosse

abuses, yet Padua is a very wor∣thy University. It was Vacati∣on time when wee were there, however wee stept into the Schooles.

Over the Gate is the Lion San Marco, and this Inscripti∣on.

Sic ingredere ut teipso quotidie doctior, sic egredere ut indies Pa∣triae Christianaeque Reipublicae utilior evad••s. Ita Demum Gym∣nasium a se feliciter Ornatum ex∣istimabit.

MDC.

Within is a square Court, the building two stories of Pillars, one over another, and round a∣bout in every corner are the Armes of all such as have been Consulls in that University; Some in colours onely, others in colours and stone, with the

countrey, name, and yeare; all which is made at the ex∣pence of the Venetian, to make famous this nursery of learn∣ing.

Above is the Anotomick Theatre a very neat, and sin∣gular invention; commodious both for the Professour, and his Spectatours.

Not farre from the Physick Schooles is the Palagio della Ra∣gione, or Hall of Justice, which considered as an upper Roome is the fairest and most spacious in Christendome. Some impose more on the excellency of this Fabrick, then can be discernd by a common eye, alledging tis plac't to the foure parts of the heaven, so that in the Equi∣noctiall the beames of the Sunne rising, entring at the East win∣dowes strike those at the West,

and in the Solstice, the rayes that come in at the South, touch the opposite window, in a word, there is no part with∣out some Astronomicall secret. The pictures represent the in∣fluence of higher bodies on these below. It is coverd with lead, round about goes a stately Corridor of Marble.

Over every dore, is some Re∣membrance of those men who for their Birth have celebrated Padua. Amongst these is that immortall Treasure of Histo∣ry and Eloquence, Livie. In whose never fading memory there is, (at one end of this hall) a monument erected, and this old inscription added there∣unto.

VE TLIVIƲS

LIVIAE. TF QƲARTAEl HALYS CONCORDIALIS SIBI ET SƲIS OMNIBƲS.

T. Livius 4^o Imperii Tib▪ Caesaris an^o vita excessit aeta∣tis vero suae LXXVI.

There is likewise a Poeticall Elegie, but I passe by this new monument, with all the apper∣tenances of the same, to come to Livies old Tombe, which is there extant in this forme. As in the page following.

[illustration]

OSSA T LIVII PATAIVNI VNIVS OIVM MORTALIVM IVDICIO DISINI CVIVS PROPE INVICTO CALAMO INVICTI P. R. RES GESTAO CONSCRIBERENTVR

To this Westminster Hall at

Padua, joynes the Podestas Pal∣lace.

The Podesta is he who repre∣sents the Senate; and executes their power; In most of the cities under the State of Venice there is one. There is likewise a Ca∣pitan Grande. He lookes after the military affaires, the other the Politicall.

Many houses in Padua are worth seeing, as the Captaines lodging in the Piazza.

At the Palazzo di Foscari all Arena, are some Vestigia of a Theater.

In the Garden of Mantua are divers singularities; Amongst others a huge Colosse of Hercu∣les, with these words.

Hercules Buphiloponus Bestia∣rius, Qui tristitiam Orbis depuli•• omnem Peramplo hoc signo Man∣tuae cura reflorescat.

One day walking to some of those places, I espi'd a good faire Chappell put to no better use then a Barne, asking the reason, twas told me it had been a Jesu∣ites Church; an argument that those Religious States-men are not welcome where the Veneti∣ans sway the sword; neither in∣deed have the Loyalists one Colledge in the Venetian Cities.

As for the Churches of Padua, that of Saint Anthony deserves the first place. Before the dore is a Man and Horse of Brasse, within is a most precious Altar, under which lies the body of S. Anthony, about is his life and miracles in figures of Mar∣ble, cut by the most famous Masters of those times, or (I thinke) that ever were, or will be.

Hard by this Church is Il prato

della Valle a Medow, at the end whereof stands that most weal∣thy and Kingly Convent of S. Justine, the best and stateliest I can remember I sawin Italy. The Chappell is an incomparable piece.

In the Cloysters an Antiqua∣ry might spend a yeares study; for amongst the Legend stories design'd on the walls, they have inserted hundreds of old In∣scriptions, with the Draughts of old stones, and pieces of Urnes, all which were dug up out of the ground, when the Founda∣tions of this Convent were first laid

A little farther is the Physick Garden, fild with simples, but the Euganean Hills furnish Padua more abundantly with medeci∣nall Herbes.

These hills are in view from

Padua, and have been alwayes famous for the Medecinall Bathes, that proceed from them.

Having spent a week in Pa∣dua, the Gentlemen wee left at Venice, came thither (viz: Sir J. G. a Northerne Baronet, and my Lord B. his eldest Son) with whom wee joynd company to goe thorough Lombardy, and so over the Alpes into France.

From Padua we hird a Coach to Verona; In our first dayes journey we had nothing to ob∣serve but the Fertility and plea∣santnesse of the Country, nei¦ther could I imagine my selfe a∣ny where but in Lombardy.

Had not the People, Lan∣guage, Manners, seemd Italian, I might have thought my selfe to have been out of Italy; so great an alteration is there in the Landskip betwixt this, and

the other side of the Appenines.

The meliority of either I dis∣pute not, they being equally good, yet contrary, that moun∣tanous, this flat. The latter is cald Lombardy, and under that name is comprehended the whole plaine betwixt the Alpes, and the Appenines.

It was almost Vintage time when wee past through this Pa∣radise, and it made my journey much easier, to see the trees rangd in order so farre as one can see, to looke on the Vines embracing the Elmes, with such an incredible quantity of grapes, that they are coverd more with Purple, then green.

Et Tellus Bacchi pondere pressa gemens.

Besides this wee lodgd every night in some memorable City, where wee sound good accom∣modation,

and something ob∣servable.

The first day some houres be∣fore it grew darke, we were in Vicenza.

Vicenza,* 4.5 in Latine Vicentia, was according to Livie built by the Galli Senones in the Reigne of Tarquinius Priscus, since that time it hath without doubt suf∣ferd many changes.

It is now under the Venetians, and stands in the Marquisate of Treves. It is neither fortified, nor capable of Fortification, it being situated at the bottome of a hill that commands the Towne, however the fidelity of the In∣habitants keep it in safety.

The Vicentins delight to goe abroad in the world, to see for∣reigne customes (an humour sel∣dome found in other Italians) so that at their returne home

they live splendidly, goe richly appareld, keep many followers; for which cause this city is repu¦ted very full of Gentry, & those rich, the common title to a Gentleman here being Signor Conte, as much as my Lord.

Neither are they lesse noble in their Buildings then in their Garbe; for by the art of Palladi∣us, the late Reviver of the Ro∣man Architecture a Vicentin, this city is beautified with state∣ly Pallaces publick, and private.

The Hall of Justice is admi∣rable, both for the Ancient and moderne structure, the Tower lofty, the Piazza most capaci∣ous of Turnaments, and other assemblyes of the Gentry, Who are much given to shewes and Pastimes; and to this purpose they have erected a Theatre, the figure whereof I conceive to bee

like those of the ancienr Ro∣mans, though the materialls dif∣fer, Palladius was the Inventor, as this Inscription over the stage, testifieth.

Virtuti ac Genio. Olympior: Academia Theatrum hoc a Fundamentis erexit. Paladio Archit: Anno 1584.

It will hold five thousand persons, the Scene is very well contrived with Statues, and Corinthian Order, the Prospe∣ctive represents a Kingly City.

Diverse like places of recrea∣tion there are, within and about the City, amongst which is the Campo Marzo made in imitati∣on of that, anciently at Rome, for to exercise the youth in Chevalry, thither the Ladies

and Gallentry of the City re∣sort, in the sommer Evenings to take the Aire.

The Arch or entrance into this Field will stand as a perpe∣tuall monument of Palladius that built it.

Just opposite is the Garden of Connt Valmarana, wherein the close Walke of Citron and Orange trees, together with the Labyrinthe are things very commendable.

Going forth at the gate di Monte, one sees another Arch of Palladius, with a most high paire of staires to the top of the Madonna Del Monte.

Halfe a mile farther by the river side (which river was in Latin cald Meduacus Minor) is the Rotonda of Conte Mario Capra so cald from the Cupola at the top, or likenesse it hath

with the Pantheon at Rome, though in my opinion it more resembles the Temple of Janus Quadrifrons, for it hath foure faces and foure Gates.

Palladius made this his Ma∣ster-piece; for tis so contriv'd, that it containes Geometri∣cally a Round, a Crosse, and a Square.

The Master of this house uses all strangers very civilly. His Sellars are the best, and the best furnished I met with, nei∣ther is he sparing of his Wines to Travellers; As wee were re∣turning from this house to our Inne, wee met with him and his followers attending him, one of them who spake French sayd, his Master desir'd to see us at his house to morrow, but our short stay would not permit us to ac∣cept of that kind invitation, I in∣fer

this passage to shew the ge∣nerous Minds of the Vicentines.

The next morning wee left Vicenza very early, dind at Oste∣ria Nuova the midway: And about foure in the afternoone wee came unto Verona.

Tis the vulgar Criticisme on this Name,* 4.6 that if it bee sylla∣bizd, it comprehends the first letters of the three head Cities of Italy Ve-Venetia. Ro-Roma. Na—Napoli. Others leave the verball dirivation, and more strictly interpret it, that what∣soever is containd in those three Cities may bee found in Vero∣na.

Her wealth may be compar'd to that of Venice; Her Monu∣ments of Antiquity equall e∣ven those of Rome, neither is the delightfull situation inferi∣our to that of Naples.

Thus much I must needs say, were I to see Italy againe, I should make my Station at Ve∣rona, for I know no place more agreeable or commodious for a stranger.

The City stands one part on the side, the other at the foot of a hill, behind which is a continuation of huge Moun∣taines.

Before one side of the City lies a rich Plat Countrey; Be∣fore the other a stony Champi∣on, or Downes, wherein C. Marius gave a totall overthrow to the Cimbrians.

The River Athesis divideth the City in the midst. Thus nature hath adornd Her, nei∣ther hath art been wanting to glorifie her, and this one may collect from the mighty rem∣nants of Roman Magnificence,

that yet stand within her walls. I may say with Martiall,

—Ʋnum pro cunctis fama lo∣quatur Opus.

Of the Amphitheatre at Vero∣na, the most perfect that is to be seen this day in Christendome, the figure whereof I have here set downe. As in the page fol∣lowing.

[illustration]

The Amphitheatre at Verona Arena

This noble worke was spoild of all its ornaments by the Bar∣barous that sackt Italy, yet one may easily judge, how betwixt the Arches and the Columnes there were statues.

In the circuit of this Moles are three Porches, one within another, made for the Specta∣tours to goe in, and out without disturbance to any one In the midst is the Arena, where the Combatants fought in an ovale forme, foure and thirty perches long, large two and twenty, en∣vironed with two and forty seats, which lie gradatim, one above another, still extending to the top.

In these Cirques the vastnesse of Marble stones is incredi∣ble, so bigge that one cannot conceive how they were trans∣ported thither.

This worke was perfected by L. V. Flaminius Cousul Anno Ʋrb: Cond. 53.

Many other signes of Vene∣rable Antiquity are there in Ve∣rona, as Arches-Triumphalls, ruines of Temples, Aquiducts, Urnes and the like. There's one Arch Triumphall dedicated to Marius for his victory over the Cimbrians.

And although this City bee not now of so great a compasse as Historians report, it was in the height of the Roman Em∣pire, yet the Venetians have with great expence joynd new Bulwarkes and walls unto the old, and it is fencd with three Castles, which make it as well impregnably strong, as delight∣full.

The buildings of this City are answerable to the Italian.

The fairest is the Councell house, upon the roofe where∣of stand expos'd to the open ayre the Statues of Cornelius Nepos, Emilius Marcus, old Po∣ets. Pliny the Naturall Historio∣graphe, Vetruvius the Archite∣cture, all which men graced their native Verona by their sin∣gular Vertues.

Besides these, the Learned Scaliger was of Verona, for whose sake and his Family i Signori della Scala, there is (in the heart of the city, before the Inne wee lay at Il Cavaletto) a stately Tombe of Marble, en∣compast with Iron worke, in the fashion of a Ladder, which that name implies.

These things wee saw before it grew darke at Verona, which wee left the next morning, ha∣ving renewed our bargaine with

the same Coach that brought us thither, to carry us to Milan.

At our going out of the Towne, I saw a Porphire Tombe in a Church yarde, twas told me that a King of the Goths lay buried there. Looking into the River Athesis, I espied a Bridge of old Roman work, and some Engines which convey water out of the river in to the city by Pipes.

When wee parted from Vero∣na, and indeed through all the Venetian State, our Matricu∣lations wee had from Padua did us much service, for by that meanes none of the Guard, would dare to hinder us as they usually doe strangers.

Two miles beyond Verona wee past over the Downes, me∣morable for the Battells of Mari∣us. About noone wee came to

Cavalli Caschieri, an Inne two miles short of Peschiera, which is a most strong Fort of the Ve∣netians, standing at the Embush∣ment of the Lago di Garda into that of Mantua.

The greater part of the after∣noone, wee past by the side of the Lake, which by the Anci∣ents ws cald Benaca. From Pes∣chiera it extends it selfe towards the North five and thirty miles. Tis very rough and tempestu∣ous, as Virgil saith,

Fluctibus & fremitu assurgens Benaca marino.

Which I believe proceeds from its enclosure, between mountaines which stop up the winde, yet being fenct so with Alpes which keep of the Nor∣therne blasts, and warmd by the reflection of the Sunne,

those hills produce great store of Olive, Citron, and Orange trees.

The Lake abounds with fish, especially with Troutes, equall to them of the Lake of Geneva, which wee tasted of that night at supper at Lunato.

In the midst of the Lago di Garda, is an Island wherein stands Sermonea.

The next day wee had very bad Coach way, yet at dinner time wee were at Brescia, where because of bad weather wee tar∣ried that day.

Brescia,* 4.7 (by the Romans Brixia) may be cald the Vene∣tians Magazine, here is a per∣petuall appearance of Warre though they live in peace, every shop is stord with Armes; In a word▪ the chiefe traffick of this place are Swords, Muskets, and

other military Engines, from whence tis vulgarly cald Brescia the Armed.

It hath a plaine on all sides, excepting towards the Castle which stands on Hill; behinde which are very high Moun∣taines; By reason of this vici∣nity to the Hills the City is beautified with many Foun∣taines, a commodity which few of the Cities in Lombardy have.

In some of the streets there runnes Porches, whereby one may walke drye in rainy wea∣ther. The Torre della Pallada is of rare Tuscan structure, the Piazza is but little, yet the Towne house may be reckoned amongst the fairest of Italy

The Dome was a repairing when I was there. In that is kept a skie colour Crosse, which they hold to be the same which

appeard to Constantin.

There is little observable, (onely some Churches) at Brescia; which we left the next morning, and dind at Ʋrsa Vec∣chio; after dinner wee past by Ʋrsi Novi, a strong Garrison in the Venetian Frontiers that way.

A little farther, having past the river Oglio, we went by Son∣cino, the first place where wee saw the Armes of Spaine over the Gates, a signe wee were come into the State of Milan, but wee soone were out of it again, for that night wee lay at Crema, which is under the Sig∣nory of Venice: It stands in a plaine very well fortified with Ramparts and a Mote. The Dome, the Tower, the Place, and the Podestas Pallace are worth seeing.

The next morning foure miles beyond Crema wee enterd into the State of Milan, and past by Lodi, a great City on the side of the River Ada, this City is famous, for the cheeses made there which are not much different from the Parmisano, Lodi was cald by the Romans Laus Pompeia.

From Lodi wee went to din∣ner at Marignano ten miles from Milan; All which way the Countrey is more Garden∣like then in any part of Lombar∣dy, the high wayes are as streight as one can imagine, on both sides runne Channells of water, on both sides trees planted, and in the fields there is Corne, Wine, Fruits, and Medowes altogether, till wee came to the very gates of Milan.* 4.8

Milan for the mighty circuit

of her walls, the great number of Churches, is before any o∣ther City in Italy said to be the Great.

The Metropolis of either France, or England, either Pa∣ris or London, goe much be∣yond it for bignesse, yet they must be lookt on as Heads of Kingdomes, this as the Capitall of a Dutchy or Province, besides their chiefest greatnesse is in their Suburbs, Milan hath none at all, but lies within a stately wall of ten miles compassc.

Tis plac't in a wide plaine, and hath about it green Hills, delightfull Medowes, Navi∣gable Rivers, and enjoyeth a wholsome Ayre, the territory doth so well furnish it with all necessary provisions, that tis worth a dayes journey onely to see the Market of Milan.

Neither doth it want Trade to support it in a flourishing condition, for tis so throngd with Artisans of all sorts, that the vulgar Proverb goes

Chi volesse Rassettare Italia ro∣uinarebbe Milano.

For the Antiquity of this place Mediolanum its ancient appella∣tion speakes it old, and some pieces of Roman edefices, yet standing there confirme the same.

Before San Lorenzo's Church stand sixteene Marble Pillars, a a remnant of the Temple of Hercules, at one end of them is this Inscription put in.

Imp: Caesari. L. Aurelio ve∣ro Aug: Arminiaco Medico Par∣thico Max: Trib: Pot: VII IMP: IIII Cos. III PP Divi Antoni∣ni Pii Divi Hadriani Nepoti:

Divi Trajani Parthici ProNepo∣ti Divi Nervae.

Abnepoti
DEC DEC.

Since Milan shooke off Pa∣ganisme to imbrace the faith of Christ, that glorious Pillar of the Church, Saint Ambrose was her Bishop. To whom there is a Church dedicated vul∣go Sanct' Ambrogio.

Under the high Altar sup∣ported by foure Porphyre Pil∣lars, is interred the body of Saint Ambrose; tis beleev'd that Saint Ambrose stood at the gates of this Church, when he excommunicated Theodosius the Emperour, and would not suffer him to enter therein.

Hard by is a poore Chappell in a blinde corner, with a Well, where Saint Ambrose baptiz'd

Saint Augustine, and began the Te Deum, as the Inscription on the wall witnesseth.

Hic Beatus Ambrosius bap∣tisat Augustinum, Deodatum & Alippum, Hic Beatus Am∣brosius incipit Te Deum lauda∣mus.

Augustinus sequitur Te Dominum Confitemur.

This place is so meane, and so little regarded, that tis very probably true; for tis incredi∣ble how the name of Carolus Baromaeus a Councell of Trent Saint, highly cryd up at Milan, hath extinguisht the memory of that learned Father.

In S. Eustorgios Church is to be seen the Sepulcher wherein lay the bodies of the three Magi; the bodies were transported to Colen in Germany, but there

remaies the Tombe in this forme.

[illustration]

SEPVLCHRVM TRIVM MAGORVM

Most of the Churches in Milan deserve the eye of the curions, yet all may bee inclu∣ded in the Dome or Cathedrall, for the Fabrick; the most like ours of any I saw in Italy; yet for the materialls more costly.

Tis all of white Marble, and about it, are five hundred Sta∣tues of the same. The Additi∣on

that is now in building is ve∣ry glorious, especially for the huge Pillars of Granito, a sort of Marble very common at Mi∣lan. About the body of the Church, are set up pictures of the miracles wrought by Saint Charles Barromee. And in a Chappell under Ground is de∣voutly worshipt the body of that new founded Saint, with a Treasure of rich presents.

As these divine buildings are glorious, so the private mens houses of Milan are not inferi∣our to those of other Cities in Italy; The streets are of a more then common breadth, and there are very many gardens within the walls.

The fairest Pallace in Milan (I may say in Italy) is the great Hospitall, a square of Columnes and Porches six hundred Rods

about; fitter to be the Court of some Kings then to keep Almes men in; yet no use can it be put to better then to feed the Hun∣gry and cloath the naked.

Next to this I reckon the Ca∣stle accounted by all Engi∣neers the fairest, the strongest Fortification or Citadell in Eu∣rope. They are very cautelous in letting strangers to see it, to cast an eye on the outworkes is a crime, wherefore I omit any farther description.

Foure dayes past while wee were visiting these things, I have set down at Milan. After this repose, wee began to be∣thinke our selves of the labori∣ous taske we had to undertake, to get over the neighbouring mountaines the Alpes.

Milan is the rise for two pas∣sages, either by mount Goodard,

or Sampion, the first is through Switzerland, tedious and long; the other is through Valesia more delightsome, and short.

Wee meeting opportunely with a guide who had been con∣versant in the way by Sampi∣on, made our agreement with him, that hee should beare all our charges, for horse, Diet, and lodging, till wee came to Geneva, wee paying him eight pistolls a man.

The passage over the Alpes.

Our first dayes journey to Sesto at the foot of the Alpes was by Coach, wee dind in the midway Alla Castellanza; Three miles short of Sesto, tis very remarkable to see how on a sud∣daine the Alpes break off the flat Countrey, like a wall to

part Italy from her neighbours France and Germany.

Thereabouts wee had in full view the Mount San Bernardo Il grande, the highest Terrasse in Europe. And wee could per∣fectly discerne it about foure English miles to out top the Cloudes.

That night wee lay at Sesto. The next morning before break of day, wee tooke boate to passe over the Lago Maggiore (in La∣tine Verbanus Lacus) so cald not that tis the biggest amongst the Alpes; but because the River Ticinus passeth through it into the Po, so that all Merchandise is thereby transported out of Helvetia, Six mile beyond Seflo, wee past by Arona a strong towne in the Dutchy of Milan, three yeares since besieged by the French; it stands on the

side of the Lake, and against it is Angiera.

All that morning wee had a pleasant passage going Terr' a Terra, till about three in the af∣ternoone wee came to Marguzzo a poore village at the end of the Lake.

Here began the difficulty of our voyage, wee could see no∣thing but a Series of Rockes, heapt to the skies upon one an∣other, yet to get over wee are constraind.

From Marguzzo wee had horses to Duomo, that fore∣noone was not so tedious as wee expected it would have been, for wee rode rather through then over the Mountaines in a very fruitfull though narrow valley.

Having dind at Duomo wee changd horse, and so the way

required; being mounted we presently got two miles higher where wee met with extreame hazardous way, and deep Pre∣cipices to boot. (Believe mee Hanniball had a most hard taske to lead an army over the Alpes —Difficilis est ad Astra Via.)

Our horses though tract up in those pathes, seemd to tell their steps and pick out their footing; however in this slow pace wee got safe to Vedra sixe mile be∣yond Duomo, the last village in Dutchy of Milan.

The next morning about three mile farther, wee enterd into the Paese de' Valesi; a most barbarous disconsolate place, a Habitation for Wolves and Beares.

Our terminus Visus was most hideous Mountaines, coverd with snow, on all sides terrible

Precipices, monstrous Rockes, passages over narrow Bridges, Cataracts of water, tumbling downe with such noise that wee could not heare one another speake.

This strange and unusuall Landskip continued not above five houres, but presently wee met with a new People, a new Phisiognomy, a new genius, a new Dresse, a new Language. Yet the first words wee heard, wee even understood Com Heyn Gots name, and Got tanke heir.

These Monticoli are in all things consonant with the Swit∣zers stout, lusty fellowes, yet very dull and ignorant.

They weare long Breeches, and rough Bands, their tongue is a broken Dutch. That which they are most commen∣dable

for is their Honesty, a man may travell over all their Country with Gold in his hand. Their women speake more of the Male then their owne, the female sex.

Having with much paines, yet delight, because of the variety, crouded through some of the Alpes, wee came to dinner at Sampion, at the top of the Mountaine, to which that Village gives the denomi∣nation.

This mount Sampion was by the Latins cald Mons Sempro∣nius

After dinner we had the har∣dest part of our journey to passe over, and then wee were worst of all provided; the poverty of the place could not afford us either Saddles or bridles to our Jades, yet necessitie drives and away wee must.

Wee were now at the very top of the Alpes; nothing to bee seen but snow, which hath laid there beyond the memory of man, and as some say ever since the flood.

There are Poles set up to di∣rect the way to passengers, yet in the very path our horses went so deep that few or none of us scapt without a fall.

In some parts of the yeare, as December, January and Februa∣ry this mountaine is impassable, The best time is in September, October or November.

After wee had past over the snow which was but for foure mile or thereabouts, wee were forc't to alight, to crawle down the steeper part of the Moun∣taine; When our Guide desird us to horse againe, it hapned one unruly Jade broke loose and

ran away. Twas my ill Fortune to be set upon a Mule, an unta∣mable headstrong beast, which seeing the other Horse, a great way before, ranne headlong up and downe, and carried the Ri∣der over such terrible places that all the company gave mee for lost: When the horse and my Mule stayd of themselves my fellow Travellers, over∣tooke mee, so that evening wee reacht to Briga, at the bottom of the Sampion which was the end of our Alpine voyage.

Hereabouts the Rivers, the Rhene and the Rhosne, have their fountaines but neither are Navigable.

The rest of our way to the Lake of Geneva, was amongst Alpes but not over any. There running along a rich valley be∣tween two huge Mountaines.

From Briga wee lay the next night at Sion (Sedunnm in La∣tine) being from Briga six Swit∣zer mile, thirty Italian.

Sion is the head City of Va∣lesia, the Bishop hath both the Spirituall and Temporall Juris∣diction. From Sion wee lay at Martigni. The next morning wee past by Saint Mauritz, a little farther wee went through a gate that divideth the Vallois from the Dutchy of Savoy: wee dind at Montei, and in the afternoone wee came to Bove∣retta, and there hir'd a Boate, to passe by the Lake unto Geneua.

The Lake of Geneva, hereto∣fore Lacus Lemanus is held to be the biggest in Christendome, on one side it hath the Switz∣ers and France, on the other the Savoyarde, and at that end where it looseth it selfe in the

Rhodanus stands the City that christens it Geneva, where wee arrivd the sixteenth of October: the eighth day from the time we sate out of Milan.

Geneva* 4.9 (ancienty head of the Allobroges) would bee but an obscure Towne were not Fame her friend. Yet is she placed in such a corner of the World, that she seemes to lye Geogra∣fically in the Center between Germany, France, and Italy.

For this reason tis suppos'd Master Calvin began to preach up his Reformation, in this City before any other, not through any splendour in the place, but that some might come from all parts to follow his Do∣ctrine.

And now by Gods protecti∣on I am in no Roman, though Catholicke state, no Inquisition

to lay hold of my words, or writings; I may set downe that which a Marble Table hath in letters of Gold, on the Towne-houseat Geneva Thus.

Post tenebras Lux.

Quum Anno 1535. profligata Romana Antichristi tyrannide, abrogatis{que} ejus superstitionibus, Sacrosancta Christi Religio Hic in suam puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem, singulari Dei beneficio Reposita, & simul pulsis fugatisque hostibus Ʋrbs ipsa in suam Libertatem non si∣ne insigni Miraculo restituta fue∣rit. Senatus Populusque Gene∣vensis Monumentum hoc perpetuae memoriae causa fieri atque hoc lo∣co erigi curavit: Quo suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad Posteros Testatam fecerit.

Before their eyes were open∣ed by Master Calvins Sermons, The Motto of the Genevists was Post Tenebras spero Lucem, since it is alterd to Post Tenebras Lux.

God will confound great things by small, else tis mira∣culous how those seeds of the Gospell, which were first sow'd in this Towne, should spread it selfe into many parts of the world Maugre Rome and her adherents.

This advantage Geneva hath by its situation, the better sort speake or understand any of these three Languages, French, Dutch, Italian, so that every weeke there are Sermons in them all. Amongst the Divines of Geneva, Deodatus is their great Patron, a great Schollar, and a pricking thorne in the Je∣suites sides.

For the Ecclesiasticall Go∣vernment of Geneva, it is Pres∣byterian such as Calvin institu∣ted. For the Politicall, I con∣ceive it to depend on Aristo∣cracy.

Their State (excepting some private men) hath hardly wealth to subsist, yet every Ci∣tizen will lay downe his life and meanes for to maintaine their Cause, and Liberty.

They keep contiauall watch and ward, and not without reason for their owne territory about the City, exceeds not the Lands of many Countrey Gen∣tlemen about their houses.

The Savoyards very often make suddain Incursions, so farre that they shewed us where they once had scal'd the Walls, but were repulst.

Yet if the Duke of Savoye pro∣hibit

his Subjects to carry Pro∣visions into Geneva. The Gene∣vists presently can sallie forth, and take their Cattle or the like by force. For there is no Castle neere to counterpoise the strength of Geneva. Besides this, in cases of necessity they have the three Protestant Can∣tones to help them, with whom they are confederates, as this Inscription standing in the Towne house witnesseth.

D. O. M. S.

Anno a vera Religione divi∣nitus cum veteri Libertate Ge∣nevae restituta L. Quasi novo Jubilaeo ineunte Plurimis vitatis Domi & foris InsidIs, & supe∣ratis Tempestatibus, & Helve∣tiorum. Primar I Tigurini aequo jure in Societatem perpetuam no∣biscum

venerint, & veteres fi∣dissimi Soci Bernenses prius vin∣culum novo adstrinxerint S. P. Q. G. Quod Felix eSe velit DOM. tanti Beneficii Monu∣mentum consecrarunt Anno Tem∣poris Ʋltimi MDXXCIV.

There is little remarkable in the City except in the Towne∣house there are kept fourteen Urnes, which were dug up as they were raising the workes of the City. S. Peters Church is their chiefe.

The houses in Geneva are ge∣nerally well built, but through most of the streets is a Timber worke very offensive to the eye, for it hinders the view of the houses, neverthelesse tis con∣venient to keep out raine. The greatest Merchandise Geneva sends to other parts is Bookes

of all sorts. This is the summe of what I tooke notice of in those few dayes I spent at Ge∣neva.

From thence I made the quickest dispatch I could to Pa∣ris, and so to my Native home. But tis now high time to set my last period to this Itinerary of my Italian voyage.

FINIS.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Monaco.
• * 1.2

  Genua.
• * 1.3

  Pisa.
• * 1.4

  Ligorne.
• * 1.5

  Florence.
• * 2.1

  Sum Osiris Rex. Jupiter univer∣so in terrarum orbe.
• * 2.2

  Rome.
• * 2.3

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 355.
• * 2.4

  Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 280.
• * 2.5

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 343 & 346.
• * 2.6

  Vid. Rom. Antic. p. 353.
• * 2.7

  Vid. Rom▪ An. i••. pag. 1••9.
• a 2.8

  Vid. Rom An∣tic. pag. 173.
• b 2.9

  Vid. Rom An∣tic. pag. 171.
• * 2.10

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 350.
• * 2.11

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 442.
• * 2.12

  Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 45
• * 2.13

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 486.
• a 2.14

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 491.
• * 2.15

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 215
• * 2.16

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 3.
• * 2.17

  * Vid. Rom An∣tic. pag. 190.
• * 2.18

  Vid. Rom. An∣tic pag. 349.
• * 2.19

  Vid. Rom Mod pag. 6.
• * 2.20

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag 10.
• * 2.21

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 20.
• * 2.22

  Vid. Rom. An∣tic. pag. 248.
• * 2.23

  Vid. Rom. Mod pag. 205.
• * 2.24

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 402.
• * 2.25

  Vid.
• * 2.26

  Rom. An∣••ic. pag. 69
• * 2.27

  Vid. Rom. An∣••ic, pag. 309.
• * 2.28

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 168.
• * 2.29

  Vid. Rom. An••ic. pag. 86. & 88.
• a 2.30

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 326.
• * 2.31

  Vid. Rom. An∣tic. pag. 202.
• a 2.32

  Vid. Rom. An∣tic. pag. 207.
• * 2.33

  Vid. Rom. An∣tic. pag. 225.
• a 2.34

  Act. 28. 30.
• b 2.35

  Vid. Rom. Mod. pag. 428.
• c 2.36

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pag. 165.
• * 2.37

  Vid. Rom. Antic. pa. 239.
• * 2.38

  Vid. Rom Antic. pa. 228.
• * 2.39

  Naples.
• * 4.1

  Bolonia
• * 4.2

  Ferrara.
• * 4.3

  Venice.
• * 4.4

  Padua.
• * 4.5

  Vicenza.
• * 4.6

  Verona.
• * 4.7

  Brescia.
• * 4.8

  Milan.
• * 4.9

  Geneva.