Healths improvement: or, Rules comprizing and discovering the nature, method, and manner of preparing all sorts of food used in this nation. Written by that ever famous Thomas Muffett, Doctor in Physick: corrected and enlarged by Christopher Bennet, Doctor in Physick, and fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London.

CHAP. XVIII. (Book 18)

Of SEA-FISH. (Book 18)

SEa-fish, may be called that sort of fish, which chiefly liveth, feedeth, breedeth, and is taken in salt water; of which I will write according to the letters of the Al∣phabet, that every man may readily find out the fishes name, whose nature or goodness he desires to know of.

Encrasicholi.

[ A] Anchovaes are but the Sea▪minoes of Provence and Sardinia; which being poudred with salt, wine-vinegar and origanum, and so put up into little barrels, are carried into all Greece, and there esteemed for a most dainty meat. It seemeth that the people of those hot Coun∣tries are very often distempered and distasted of their meat; wherefore to recover their appetite they feed upon Anchovaes, or rather taste one or two of them; whereby not onely to them, but also to us appe∣tite is restored: I could wish that the old manner of bar∣relling

them up with origanum, salt and and wine-vinegar were observed; but now they taste onely of salt, and are nothing so pleasant as they were wont to be: They are fittest for stomachs oppressed with fleam, for they will cut, ripen, and digest it, and warm the stomack ex∣ceeding well; they are of little nourishment, but light enough if they were not so over-salted; they are best drest with oil, vinegar, pepper, and dryed origanum, and they must be freed from their outward skin & the ridge∣bone & be washt in wine, before they be laid in the dish.

Variatae. Alburni marini.

[ B] Bleaks of the Sea, or Sea-bleaks, called of Dr Cajus Variatae, or Sea-cameleons (because they are never of one colour, but change with every light and object, like to changeable silk) are as sound, firm and wholesome as any Carp; there be great plenty of them in our Sou∣thern Seas, betwixt Rye and Exceter, and they are best sodden, because they are so fine and so firm a meat.

Abramides marinae.

Breams of the Sea, be of a white and solid substance, good juice, most easie digestion and good nourishment.

Piscis Capellanus. Asellus medius.

[ C] Cod-fish is a great Sea-whiting, called also a Keeling or Melwel; of a tender flesh but not fully so dry and firm as the Whiting is: Cods have a bladder in them full of eggs or spawne, which the Northern men call the kelk, and esteem it a very dainty meat; they have also a thick and gluish substance at the end of their stomach called a sowne, more pleasant in eating then good of nourishment; for the toughest fish-glue is made of that. Of all parts of the fresh Cod, the head, lips, and palate is preferred, being a very light though a slimy meat

Pectines. Pectunculi.

Cocks and Cockles are commended by Scribonius * 1.1Largus, for strengthening the stomack. Pliny saith they

encrease flesh, but certain it is that they encrease lust; for they themselves are so hot of nature, that they leap and fly above water like an arrow, in the sommer nights * 1.2to be cooled by the air, Alexander Benedictus report∣eth, that some with eating too many Cockles have be∣come stark fools. Their broth loosneth the body, but their flesh staies it. Galen commends them for a good * 1.3meat, but dangerous to them that are subject to the stone or falling sickness. The best Cockles keep in sandy seas, which maketh the Purbeck and Selsey Cockles so highly esteemed; they are best in the month of May, for then are they fullest, lustiest, and cleanest of gravel. To avoid their gravel, keep them in salt water or brine a whole day before you eat them, and if you shift them into fresh water or brine when the tide is comming, they will open themselves, and spue out all their gravel and filthiness. Chuse the greatest and the whitest of them, and of al shell fish, they are best broild in a frying pan, neither are they ill being sod in water with salt, pepper, parsly, dried mints, and cinamon, after the French fashion.

Conger.

Conger is nothing but a sea-eele of a white sweet and fatty flesh: little Congers are taken in great plenty in the Severn, betwixt Glocester and Tewkesbury, but the great ones keep onely in the salt seas, which are whiter-flesht, and more tender; they feed (as eels do) upon fat waters at the mouths of rivers running into the sea: they are hard of digestion for most stomacks, engendring chollicks if they be eaten cold, & leprosies if they be eaten hot after their seething. Philemon the Comical Poet seeing a Con∣ger * 1.4seething in a Cooks-shop for divers young Gentle∣men, that bespake it to dinner, suddenly snacht away the * 1.5pan wherein it boiled, and ran away with it, the Gentlemen followed and catcht at him like a number of Chickens; whom he had crossed, and turned, and mocked

for a great while, till having sported himself enough, he flang down pan and all with these words: O humane fol∣ly! how do fooles long for unwholsome meats? for he thought Conger to be bad enough of its owne nature, but far worse if it were eaten hot out of the pan. In England we do not amiss first to boil it tender in wa∣ter with salt, time, parsly, baies, and hot herbs, then to lay it covered in vinegar, and then to broil it; for so is it a meetly good nourishment in Sommer, for hot sto∣machs.

Merula.

The Cook-fish, is so called of the seamen, because he so pleasantly tasteth when he is well sod, as though he had seasoned himself with salt and spices. They are very rare, but tender and light of nourishment; and there is never seen of them past one at once, which caused the Latins to call them Merulas, that is to say the Solitarians or Hermits or Blackbirds of the Sea.

Cancri marini.

Crabs of the Sea, be of divers sorts; some smooth∣crusted, and some rough-casted as it were, and full of prickles, called Echinometrae: The first sort hath the two formost clawes very big and long, the other wanteth them; wherefore as they go side wi••e, so these move not themselves but round about like a spiral line: the first sort are also very big, or never growing to be of any rea∣sonable sise. The great ones are called Paguri, where∣of some weigh 10 l. weight; furthermore one sort of the great ones (which is the best of all) goeth so fast up∣on the shore, that the Grecians have termed them Hip∣peis, or light horsemen. The little sort of Crabs is softer shelld (called Pinnotheres) whose weakness is defended with abundance of wit; for whilst he is little, he hides himself in a little Oister, and when he groweth bigger

(yet is he never so bigg as our common crabb) he con∣veyeth himself into a bigger Oister; of all sea-crabbs this is the lightest and wholesomest, next unto them are our ordinary crabs, but somewhat harder of digesti∣on; both of them nourish much, and are highly com∣mended, in consumptions of lungs and spittings up of blood, not onely by Dioscorides, Pliny, and Avicen, but also by all writers, especially if Asses milk be drunk with them.

As for their manner of preparation, their vents are first to be stopped with a sticks end, and then they are to be sodden in water for such as are costiff, or in wine for them which are loose bellied; some seeth them in vinegar, water, and salt; but Galen saith that then they * 1.6are best, when they are sod in that water out of which they were taken; the fuller of eggs the better they are, for the female is preferred. Our great sea-crabbs (either of the smooth or rough kind) full of a yellowish red and strong pulp, lushish in taste, and bought deerly, are of a very hard digestion, except they light upon a very strong stomach. They also over-heat and enflame the body, whereas contrariwise the lesser sort do cool and moisten it. The broth of all of them consume the stone, and cureth Quartains being drunk every morning fasting they are best in season in the spring and fall, as also at the full of the moon.

Cuculi marini.

Currs are supposed by Dr Cajus to be all one with our Gurnard; but it somewhat differeth, being of a very firm, whitish, dry, sound, and wholesome flesh; they are best sodden with salt, water, mace, nutmegs, parsly and vinegar.

Sepiae. vel Lolligines calamariae.

Cuttles (called also sleeves for their shape, and scribes

for their incky humour wherewith they are replenished) * 1.7are commended by Galen for great nourishers; their skins be as smooth as any womans, but their flesh as brawny as any ploughmans, therefore I fear me Galen rather commended them upon hear-say, then upon any just cause or true experience; Apicius, that great Master∣cook, makes sawsages of them with lard and other things; which composition I would not have omitted, if it had been worth the penning.

Canis Cetaceus.

[ D] Dog-fish is strong▪ hard, and of grose and bad juice: * 1.8albeit Hippocrates commends it in Pleuresies, and also in the skin-dropsie or Anasarca. The Dorry is very like to a Sea-bream, of most excellent taste, constitution, and nourishment, being either backt, or sodden whilst it is alive in wine, water, salt, vinegar, and pennirial.

Mustelae.

[ E] Eele-powtes are best in April, May and September; their spawne is counted very hurtful, but their flesh is white, firm, and of good nourishment, and their livers most sweet and delicate: seeth them as you do a Dorry, and then broil them a little to make them easier of di∣gestion, or else boil them as you do Sturgian, and so eat them cold.

Rhombi marini.

[ F] Sea-Flounders are very thick, firm, and yet light of di∣gestion, they are exceeding good for aguish persons be∣ing well sod, and for some men, being fried in vinegar and butter.

Lucernae.

[ G] Gilt-heads or Golden-poles, are very little unlike the Gournard, save that it seems about the noddle of the head, as though it were all besprinkled with gold-filings,

it is something harder of digestion, as Galen writeth.

Cuculi majores.

Gurnards are of two sorts, Swart or Reddish; either of them are within of a white, firm, dry, firm, and whol∣some substance; giving our bodies a competent nourish∣ment, being sodden in white wine-vinegar, salt, mace, and onions, or else being sodden onely in wine and then sowced.

Asellus. Islandicus.

[ H] Haberdine is nothing but an Island Cod, bigger some∣what then ours, and also firmer.

Asselluli.

Haddocks are little Cods, of light substance, crum∣bling flesh, and good nourishment in the Sommer time, especially whilst Venison is in season.

Aselluli longi.

Hakes be of the same nature, resembling a Cod in taste, but a Ling in likeness.

Aquila marina.

* 1.9 The Sea-Hawke is of hard flesh & slow digestion, as Galen avoucheth from Philotimus mouth; smelling strong and heavily, not to be eaten without leeks, onions, and garlick

Haleces.

Herrings are an usual and common meat, coveted as much of the Nobility for variety and wantoness, as used of poor men for want of other provision: it is one of the Cardinal supporters of our holy Lent, and therefore not * 1.10to be ill spoken of: yet Thomas Cogan (in his Haven of Health) saith that by eating of fresh Herring many fall in∣to fevers, and that Red-herring gives as good nourish∣ment to the body, as resty Bacon. And truely I dare a∣vouch, that new bloat-herrings are little better; and pick∣eld herrings far worse, though you correct them with never so much vinegar, salt, pepper and oil. As for salt

Herring well watred or qualified in warm milk, they taste not ill after they are broild, but yet they give none or a bad nourishment; saving to Ploughmen, Sai∣lers, Souldiers, Mariners, or labouring persons, to whom gross and heavy meats are most familiar and conveni∣ent.

Rhinocerotes. Acus.

Horne-beaks are ever lean (as some think) because they are ever fighting; yet are they good and tender, whe∣ther they be eaten fresh or poudred. Highly be they commended of Alexander Benedictus in the plague time, because they breed no unwholesome or excremen∣tal humours.

Leucisci marini.

[ I] Javelings or Sea-darts are plentiful in the Venecian gulf and all the Adriatique Sea; where having taken the young ones, they salt them and send them to Constanti∣nople in infinite number for Anchovaes; the greater sort they fry and boil at home, being of a very sweet and soft flesh.

Miluus marinus.

[ K] Keelings differ nothing but in name from Cod. The Sea-Kite, called of Pliny Hirundo volans, the flying Swallow, resembleth much the flying Herrings so plen∣tiful about the West-Indies, which finding not proper meat within the waters, flieth after gnats and muskitoes like a swallow. Sir Francis Drake (whom thankful posterity will worthily esteem) did first shew me one of them dead, and I think he was one of the first of our Na∣tion, that did ever eat them; they are of a good taste, tender flesh, but somewhat aguish after the nature of fresh Herrings.

Asellus.

[ L] Ling perhaps looks for great extolling, being count∣ed

the beefe of the Sea, and standing every fish day (as * 1.11a cold supporter) at my Lord Maiors table; yet is it no∣thing but a long Cod: whereof the greater sised is cal∣led Organe Ling, and the other Codling, because it is no longer then a Cod, and yet hath the taste of Ling: whilst it is new it is called green-fish, when it is salted it is called Ling, perhaps of lying, because the longer it lyeth (be∣ing conveniently turned, and the Peace-straw often shifted wherein it lyeth) the better it is, waxing in the end as yellow as the gold noble, at which time they are worth a noble a piece. They are taken onely in the far Nothern Seas, where the sweetest and biggest live; but Codlings are taken in great plenty neer to Bedwell in Northumberland shire.

Locustae marinae.

Lobsters are of a strong and hard flesh, and hard of concoction; the belly, clawes and upper parts are most tender, the tail parts tough; when they are seething their mouth and lower vent should be stopped with towe, lest the liquor being bettered with their juice, they themselves prove flashy and unpleasant in taste. As the * 1.12River Lobster or Crevisse seemeth (as Dorion said) to be made onely for weak stomacks; so I think these are or∣dained onely for the stronger sort: for I have known many weak persons venture on them to their great hurt, as contrariwise sound stomacks do well digest them? Pliny saith, that in the North-west Indian Seas there be * 1.13Lobsters taken of two yards length; whereof we have none, or if we had, yet can they not be so wholesome, for the least is tendrest, and the middle sised is best flesht; as for the great ones they be old and tough, & will cause sorrow enough before they be well concocted. They come into season with the Buck, and go out of season when the Doe comes in; also in the wane of the moon

they are little worth, and best towards and in the full: clove-vinegar and gilly flour-vinegar is their best sawce, and if you butter them after they are well sodden with store of vinegar and pepper, they will give a strong nou∣rishment to an indifferent stomack; when their spawne lies greatest in their head, then are they in prime; but when all their spawn is out, then is their spawn good, and they wax bad.

Lucij.

Luces are properly called Pikes of the Sea; so rare in Spaine, that they are never seen. But our English Seas, especially which wash the Southern shore, have store of them which are large fat and good. Mr Huzzy of Cook∣field sent me once a Luce out of Sussex a yard and a half long, which being presented by me to the Mirror of Chivalry (the Lord Willoughby of Eresby) was thought, and truly thought a most dainty fish; for it eateth more sweet, tender, and crisper then our river Pikes, and may be eaten of aguish persons, weak stomacks, and women in child-bed. Their feed is chiefly upon young fry, and spawnes of fish: and by continual swimming (whereunto they are forced by beating of the surges) they become tenderer then our fresh water Pikes, though not so fat.

Orbes.

Lumps are of two sorts, the one as round almost as a bowle, the other resembling the fillets of a Calfe; either of them is deformed, shapeless and ugly, so that my Maides once at Ipswich were afraid to touch it, being flayed they resemble a soft and gellied substance, where∣upon the Hollanders call them Snot-fishes; I liked not their substance, taste, nor qualities, for they were (as they are written of) a curde, raw, and fleagmatick meat, much like to a Thorne-back half sodden, they are best being boiled and pickled like Sturgian, and so eaten cold.

Scombri. [ M]

Mackrels were in old time in such request, that two gallons of their pickle (called the pickle of good fel∣lows) * 1.14was sold for a thousand pieces of silver; but time and experience described them to be of a thick, clammy and suffocating substance, offensive to the brain, head, and brest, though pleasant in taste, and acceptable to the stomach: Certain it is that they cause drousiness in the * 1.15best stomacks, and apoplexies, or palsies, or lethargies, or dulness (at the least) of sense and sinews to them that be weak. Tralianus rightly adviseth all persons sick of fleag∣matick diseases, and of stoppings, to beware of Mack∣rels as a most dangerous meat: albeit their liver helpeth * 1.16the jaundies, being sod in vinegar, and their flesh sod in vinegar cureth the suffocation of the matrix: they are best being sod in wine-vinegar with mints, parsly, rose∣mary, and time, and if afterwards they be kept in pickle, made of Rhennish wine, ginger, pepper, and dill, they prove a very dainty and no unwholesome meat; they are worst of all buttered. The French men lay Southern∣wood upon a gridiron, & them upon the Southernwood, and so broil them both upon the fire, basting them well with wine and butter, and so serve them in with vinegar, pepper and butter, as hot as can be; by which way no doubt their malignity is much lessened, and their good∣ness no less encreased.

Rajolae.

Maides are as little and tender Skates, feeding chiefly upon flesh, livers, and spawne of fish; whereas other fish bring forth eggs, which are in time converted into their parents shape; onely Maides Skate and Thorne-back bring forth their young ones without eggs, after the kind of propagation of beasts: they are very nourishing and of good juice, fit for weak stomacks, and such as have

through wantoness spoiled themselves and robbed na∣ture. Boil them in wine water and salt, with a sprig of rosemary, and then eat them with vinegar, pepper, and sweet butter.

Mugiles marini. Italice Cephalo.

Sea-Mullets differ little or nothing in shape from Barbels, saving that they are very little or nothing beard∣ed, and those that have beards, have them onely on the neither lip.

There is store of them in the mouth of the river of * 1.17Usk, and perhaps as many as at Lateran in Province. They are so swift, that they often outswim the lightest Ships; which argueth them to be of a light and aeireal substance: It is strange what is written of this fish; * 1.18namely that it should hurt Venus game; yea that the very broth of it, or the wine wherein it is sodden should make a man unable to get, and a woman unable to conceive * 1.19children. Nay furthermore Terpsides avoucheth, that a little of that broth being mingled with hens meat, maketh them barren though never so well trodden of the Cock; whereupon he saith, The Poets have consecrated the Sea-Mullets to Diana, as being the procurer and preserver of chastity; which if it be true (as I can hard∣ly think it is) then farewell Paracelsus his cabalistical con∣clusion, or rather the follies of Avicen and many Ara∣bians, which give the stones, brains, and combs, of most lascivious birds (as Cocks, Phesants, Partridges, Drakes and Sparrows) to stir up lust and encrease seed: for the Sea-Mullet is so lascivious, that a thousand Females swim after one Male as soon as they have spawned, and the Males likewise strive as much if they have not choice of Females; yea whereas in a manner all kind of fish, spawne but once a year; they come (like to swine among beasts) thrice a year at the least; yet are they

(as men say, and as many have written since) abaters of courage, extinguishers of seed, and charmes as it were against conception: Nevertheless sith their flesh is * 1.20wholesome, white, sweet, and tender, and they feed clean and good, I dare boldly aver them to be much nourishing; being first well sodden in wine, salt, and water, and then either sowced like a Gurnard, or kept in gelly like a Tench, or eaten hot with vinegar and pep∣per. Of the eggs and blood of this fish mixed with salt (which must not be omitted in this discourse) is also made that which the Italians call Botargo, from the Greek words 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 or salted eggs.

Mityli. Chamae.

Mussels were never in credit, but amongst the poorer sort; till lately the lilly white Mussel was found out a∣bout Romers-wall, as we sail betwixt Flushing and Ber∣gen-••p-Zon, where indeed in the heat of Sommer, they are commonly and much eaten without any offence to the head, liver or stomach; yea my self (whom once twen∣ty Mussels had almost poisoned at Cambridg, and who have seen sharp, filthy, and cruel diseases follow the eat∣ing of English Mussels) did fill my self with those Mussels of the Low Country, being never a whit distempered with my bold adventure. Dr Wotton saith that the least * 1.21Mussels be ever best, because they are whitest softest, and soonest digested, but the great ones give a stronger and larger nourishment; the red ones are very dange∣rous, yellow ones are suspected, but the white ones are wholesome and much commended, save unto hot and distempered stomacks: they are best sodden in the water out of which they were taken, which being not obtained, seeth them in water and salt, and a little strong Ale and Vinegar: broild Mussels encrease heat and draught; fryed Mussels do easily corrupt in

our bodies, and turn to a bad juice. If they be kept in the like pickle, as lately is devised by Serjeant Goodrons to keep Oisters in (made of sea water, wine, vinegar, bayleaves, mints, pepper, ginger, and cinamon) I durst warrant them as wholesome, and questionless more plea∣sant then the Oister. As for horse-mussels they deserve not the remembrance, sith neither experience, custome, nor reason approveth them a wholesome meat; nay as * 1.22Pliny saith, Salem virusque refipiunt; they taste brackish and strong, having a hidden poison within their flesh; yet have I seen them ordinarily sold in Venice, which mak∣eth me think that some Sea and River may have whole∣some ones of that kind, though ours be neither whole∣some nor pleasant of taste. They are exceeding bigg in Spaine and the West Indies; but the greatest that ever I read of, is that which Juba recordeth in his volumes * 1.23writen to Cajus (Augustus son) being as big in compass as three pecks.

Monachae.

[ N] Nunfishes were not seen in England till Sir Francis Drake and Mr Caundish brought them (no man knows out of what Seas) cleaving to the keels of their happy Vessels. It is a kind of shell-fish, not winding like a Peri∣winckle, nor opening his shell (as Oisters, Mussels, and Cockles do) but creeping out of his craggy cabine, like a sea-snail, but that (as I said) his hole goeth strait inward and windeth not: the face of it is very white, the head is covered as it were with a black vail, like the Nuns of Saint Bridgets order, whereof I suppose it took the name. It feedeth upon sweet mud sticking upon Ships sides whilst they lye at Anchor, and is as wholesome and delicate a meat as any Periwinckle.

Ostreae.

[ O] Oisters do justly deserve a full treatice, being so com∣mon,

and whithall so wholesome a meat; they differ in colour, substance, and bigness; but the best are thick, little and round sheld, not sli ppery nor flaggy through abundance of a gellied humour, but short, firm, and thick of flesh, riseing up round like a womans breast, being in a manner all belly, and no fins; or at the most having very short fins, of a green colour, and listed about as with a purple haire, which will make them indeed to be justly called Calliblephara, that is to say, The fair eye * 1.24lidded Oisters; such are our Walfleet and Colchester Oisters; whose good rellish, substance, and wholesome∣ness, far exceedeth the Oisters of Vsk, Pool, Southamp∣ton, Whitstable, Rye, or any other Port or Haven in Eng∣land.

Thus much concerning the body of Oisters, now somewhat concerning their bigness; Alexander with his (Friends and Physitians wondred to find Oisters in * 1.25the Indian seas a foot long. And in Plinies time they marvelled at an Oister, which might be divided into three morsels, calling it therefore Tridacnon by a pecu∣liar name: but I dare and do truly affirm, that at my eld∣est Brothers marriage, at Aldham hall in Essex, I did see a Pelden Oister divided into eight good morsels, whose shell was nothing less then that of Alexanders; but as the Greek Proverb saith, Goodness is not tied to great∣ness, but greatness to goodness; wherefore sith the lit∣tle round Oisters be commonly best rellished, and less fulsome, let them be of the greatest account, especially to be eaten raw, which of all other is thought to be the best way. Galen saith that they are somewhat heavy * 1.26of digestion, and engender fleagm; but as he knew not the goodness of English beefe (when he condemned the use of all Ox-flesh) so had he tryed the goodness of our Oisters, which Pliny maketh the second best of the * 1.27

world, no doubt he would have given Oisters a better censure. That they are wholesome and to be desired of every man, this may be no small reason, that (almost) every man loves them, Item whereas no flesh or other fish is or can be dangerless being eaten raw, raw Oisters are never offensive to any indifferent stomack. Nay fur∣thermore they settle a wayward appetite and confirm a weak stomack, and give good nourishment to decayed members, either through their owne goodness, or that they are so much desired.

Finally if they were an ill and heavy meat, why were they appointed to be eaten first? which is no new cu∣stome brought in by some late Physitian: for one ask∣ing * 1.28Dromeas (who lived long before Athenaeus and Ma∣crobius time) whether he liked best, the Feast of Athens or Chalcis? I like, said he, the Athenians Prologue better then the Chalcidians, for they began their feasts with Oisters, and these with hony▪cakes: which argueth them to have been ever held for a meat of light digesti∣on, else had they not alwaies been eaten in the first place. It is great pitty of the loss of Asellius the Sabins book written Dialogue-wise betwixt the Fig-finch, the Thrush and the Oisters, wherein upon just grounds he * 1.29so preferred them before the Birds, that Tiberius Caesar rewarded him with a thousand pound Sterling. The fattest Oisters are taken in salt water at the mouth of Rivers, but the wholesomest and lightest are in the main * 1.30upon shelfs and rocks; which also procure urine and stools, and are helps to cure the chollick and dropsy, if they be eaten raw, for sodden Oisters bind the * 1.31belly, stop urine, and encrease the collick. How dange∣rous it is to drink small drink upon Oisters it appeareth * 1.32by Andronicus the elder, who having made a great Din∣ner of Oisters, drank cold water upon them, whereupon

he died, being not able to overcome them. And truly as Oisters do hardly corrupt of themselves; so if cold drink follow them they concoct as hardly: wherefore (especially having eaten many) drink either wine or some strong and hot beer after them, for fear of a mischiefe. Little Oisters are best raw, great Oisters should be stued with wine, onions, pepper, and butter, or roasted with vinegar, pepper, and butter, or bak't with onions, pep∣per, andbutter, or pickled with white-wine-vinegar, their owne water, bayes, mints, and hot spices; for of all wayes they are worst sod, unless you seeth them in that sea water from whence they were brought.

All Oisters are dangeours whilst they be full of milk, which commonly is betwixt May and August. Raw Oi∣sters are best in cold weather, when the stomach is hot∣test, namely from September to April: albeit the Italians dare not venture on a raw Oister at any time, but broil them in the shell with their water, the juice of an o∣renge, pepper, and oil; which way I must needs con∣fess it eates daintily. Pickled Oisters may be eaten at all times, and to my taste and judgement they are more commendable, chiefly to cold, weak, windy, distasted * 1.33stomachs, then any way else prepared. I wonder whe∣ther it be true or no which I have heard of, and Pliny seemeth also to affirm, That Oisters may be kept all the year long covered in snow, and so be eaten in Sommer as cold as can be; which if it prove answerable to the likelihood I conceive of it, I will cry out with Pliny in the same Chapter, Quanti quanti es▪luxuria, quae sum∣ma montium & maris ima commisces? How great and powerful is riot, which maketh the highest covering of * 1.34mountains, and the lowest creatures of the seas to meet together? Yet it is recorded that Apicius the Roman, kept Oisters so long sweet (were it in snow, pickle, or

brine) that he sent them from thence sweet and good to the Emperour Trajan, warring against the Parthians.

Cochleae marinae.

[ P] Perwinckles or Whelks, are nothing but sea-snails, feed∣ing upon the finest mud of the shore and the best weeds; they are very nourishing and restorative, being sod at the sea-side in their own sea water: the whitest flesht are ever best & tenderest, & they which are taken in clean creeks eat pleasant, but they which are gathered upon muddy shores eat very strongly and offend the eyesight. They * 1.35are best in winter and in the spring: for a stomack and liver resolved as it were and disposessed of strength. A∣picius * 1.36warneth us to pick away the covering of their holes, for it is a most unwholesome thing, being nothing but a collection of all their slime hardned with seething. The best way to prepare them for sound persons is to seeth them in their owne sea-water, or else in river water with salt and vinegar; But for weak and consumed per∣sons Apicius willeth them (in the Book and Chapter a∣foresaid) to be thus drest; take first the skin from their holes, and lay them for a day or two covered in salt and milk; the third day lay them onely in new milk, then seeth them in milk till they be dead, or fry them in a pan with butter and salt.

Passeres.

Plaise (called the sea-sparrows, because they are brown above and white beneath) are of good, wholesome and fine nourishment. Arnoldus de villa nova writeth thus of them. Of all sea-fish Rochets and Gurnards are to be preferred; for their flesh is firm, and their substance purest of all other. Next unto them Plaise and Soles are to be numbred, being eaten in time; for if either of them be once stale, there is no flesh more carrion-like nor more ••roublesome to the belly of man: the best Plaise have

blackest spots, as the best flounders reddest, & the thick∣er, is most commended, and such as are taken upon the Eastern cost, as Rye, Sandwich, and Dover; could we have store at all times of such wholesome fish, at any reasonable rate, Jackalent would be a cock-horse all the year long, and butchers meat would go a begging.

Alausae minores.

Pilchers differ not only in age (as some dream) but even in substance and form from Herrings; for their flesh is firmer and fuller, and their body rounder, neither are they of so aguish an operation; they are best broild, hav∣ing lien a day in salt, and eaten with butter salt, & pepper.

Porci marini.

Porpesses, Tursions, or sea-hogs, are of the nature of swine, never good till they be fat, contrary to the disposi∣on of Tunnies, whose flesh is ever best when they are leanest; it is an unsavory meat, engendring many superflu∣ous humours, augmenting fleagm, and troubling no less an indifferent stomach, then they trouble the water a∣gainst a tempest; yet many Ladies and Gentlemen love it exceedingly, bak't like venison; yea I knew a great Gentle-woman (in Warwick lane) once send for a pasty of it given from a Courtier) when the prisoners of Newgate had refused the fellow of it out of the Beggers basket. Thus like lips like lettice, and that which is most mens bane, may be fittest to delight and nourish others.

Pol••pi.

Poulps are hard of digestion, naught howsoever they be drest, as Platina thinketh. But sith Hyppocrates com∣mendeth * 1.37them to women in childbed▪ I dare not abso∣lutely diswade the eating of them; especially sith Di∣philus, Paulus, Aegineta, and Aetius commend them likewise, saying that they nourish much, and exces∣sively provoke lust. Indeed if any would eat a

* 1.38 live pulp, to anger others and to kill himself, as Diogenes did (though some say that he died of a raw cow-heel, others that he stiffeld himself in his cloke) no doubt he shall find it a dangerous morsel; but being well sod∣den in salt water and wine, and sweet herbs, it is as dainty and far more wholesomer then a Mackrel.

Anates marini.

Puffins, whom I may call the feathered fishes, are accounted even by the holy fatherhood of Cardinals to be no flesh but rather fish; whose Catholique censure I will not here oppugne, though I have just reason for it, because I will not encrease the Popes Coffers; which no doubt would be filled, if every Puffin eater bought a pardon, upon true and certain knowledge that a Puffin were flesh: albeit perhaps if his Holiness would say, that a shoulder of Muton were fish; they either would not or could not think it flesh.

Aranei marini.

Quawiners (for so the Scots and Northen English term them) are very subtile and crafty fishes, but utter∣ly unwholesome for indifferent stomachs, though the poorer sort of the Orcadians eat them for hunger.

Rubelliones.

Rochets (or rather Rougets, because they are so red) differ from Gurnards and Curs, in that they are redder by a great deal, and also lesser; they are of the like flesh and goodness yet better fryed with onions, but∣ter, and vinegar, then sodden; because they are so little, that seething would soke out their best nourishing sub¦stance.

Pectines veneris.

Scallopes are called Venus Cockles, either because she was borne in one of them, or because she loved them * 1.39above all other meat. Pliny extolleth the Scallops of

Alexandria in Egypt, but now the most and best be in Spaine by Compostella, whether many lecherous men and women resort, to eat Scallops fot the kindling of lust and encrease of nature, under the name of a Pilgri∣mage to Saint James his shrine: The whitest are best, and least hot, all of them encrease lust, provoke much urine, and nourish strongly. Selsey and Purbeck have gotten them credit for them and for Cockles, above all the Costs of England; they are best being broild with their owne water, vinegar, pepper, and butter, but sod∣den they are held to be unwholesome

Phocae.

Seales flesh is counted as hard of digestion, as it is gross of substance, especially being old; wherefore I leave it to Mariners and Sailers, for whose stomachs it is fittest, and who know the best way how to prepare it

Triches. Clupeae.

Shads have a tender and pleasant flesh, but in some months they are so full of bones, that the danger in eat∣ing them lessneth the pleasure; they nourish plentiful∣ly, especially the Severn shad, which in my judgement is void of that viscous humour, whereby other shads (no less then Mackrels) enforce sleepiness to the eater. They are best in May, June, and July, for then they are full of flesh and freest of bones.

Squillae.

Shrimps are of two sorts; the one crookbacked, the other straitbacked: the first sort is called of French∣men Caramots de la sante healthful shrimps; because they recover▪sick and consumed persons; of all other * 1.40they are most nimble, witty, and skipping, and of best juice. Shrimps were of great request amongst the Ro∣mans, and brought in as a principal dish in Venus feasts.

The best way of preparing them for healthful persons, is to boil them in sea or salt water, with a little vinegar; but for sick and consumed bodies dress them after this sort: first wash them clean in barly water, then unscale them whilst they are alive, and seeth them in chicken broth; so are they as much (or rather more) restorative as the best crabs and crevisses most highly commended by Physitians. Futhermore they are unscaled, to vent the windiness which is in them, being sodden with their scales, whereof lust and disposition to venery might arise, but no better nor sounder nourishment.

There is a great kind of Shrimps, which are called Prawnes in English, and Crangones by Rondeletius, high∣ly prized in hectick fevers and consumptions; but the crook-backt Shrimp far suprasseth them for that pur∣pose, as being of a sweeter taste and more temperate con∣stitution.

Squatina.

Skate is skin'd like a File, of the same nature with a Thorneback, but pleasanter, more tender, and more avail∣able to stir up letchery; it is so neer a Thorneback in * 1.41shape, that they often couple and engender together.

Lingulacae Soleae.

Soles or Tongue fishes, are counted the Partridges of the sea, and the fittest meat of all other for sick folks; for they are of a good smell, a pleasant taste, neither of too hard nor too soft a flesh, engendring neither too thick nor too thin blood; of easie concoction, leaving none or few excrements after they be digested. Platina fried them (as we do) with persly, butter, and verjuce, and sawced them with butter and juce of orenges; but for sick persons they are best sodden in water, butter, and verjuce with a little falt; it is a fish impatient of winter, and there∣fore then it lurketh in deep holes, but in summer it

sporteth it self abroad, and offereth it self to be seen when it is most seasonable.

Chalcides.

Sprats need no description, being one of Jack-a-lents principle pages: They smell well being new and fresh, resembling therein the river-smelt; but their flesh is quezy, corruptible, and aguish, especially if they light on a weak stomach; they are worst being smoked or fried, indifferent sodden, and best broild.

Chalcides majores.

Spurlings are but broad Sprats, taken chiefly upon our Northern coast; which being drest and pickled as Anchovaes be in Provence, rather surpass them then come behind them in taste and goodness. Were Eng∣lish men as industrious as I could wish, we should sel them deerer to the French and Italians, then their Anchovaes are sold to us; for I have seen some prepared by Dr. Turner, which far exceeded theirs: but strange things are ever best liked, according to that saying of Galen, Peregrina, quae ignorant, magis celebrant mortales, quàm quod nativum est, quodque esse praeclarum nôrunt. * 1.42Mortal men (saith he) do more extoll forreign things, albeit they know them not; then home▪bred and famili∣ar things, though they know them to be excellent.

Apuae infumatae.

As for Red Sprats and Spurlings, I vonchsafe them not the name of any wholesome nourishment, or rather of no nourishment at all; commending them for no∣thing but that they are bawdes to enforce appetite, and serve well the poor mans turn to quench hunger.

Asellus aridus

Stockfish whilst is is unbeaten is called Buckhorne, be∣cause it is so tough; when it is beaten upon the stock, it is termed stockfish. Rondelitius calleth the first * 1.43 〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

Merlucium, and Stock-fish Moluam, it may be Salpa Plinij, for that is a great fish, and made tender * 1.44by age and beating. Erasmus thinketh it to be called Stockfish, because it nourisheth no more then a dryed stock: wherefore howsoever it be sod, buter'd, fried or baked, and made both toothsomer and delectable by good and chargeable cookery; yet a stone will be a stone, and an ape an ape, howsoever the one be set up for a Saint, and the other apparelled like a Judge.

The Stilliard Merchants lay it twenty four hours in strong lye, and then as long again in warm waters; after∣wards they boil it in abundance of butter, and so serve it in with pepper, and salt, which way (if any way) it is most nourishing, because it is made not onely tender, but also more moist and warm: Now let us stay longer upon the Sturgian, esteemed sometime the Monarch of all sea-fish.

Acipenser.

Sturgian is thought of Mr. Cogan to be a fish of hard substance, not much better (in his judgement) then Ba∣con * 1.45or Brawne, although for the rareness it be esteemed of great Estates; which I will not deny to be true in old and resty Sturgian; but young Sturgian is so far of from being tough or unwholesome, that of all other fish it is and was ever most preferred: Severus and his fol∣lowers * 1.46did so esteem it (though Trajan for an in borne hatred could not abide it) that whensoever any great feast was kept, the chiefe Gentleman of his Court car∣ried up the Sturgian, all gilded over with gold, and at∣tended with minstrelsy and carolling, as though a solemn Pageant or Saints shrine were to be carried about the Ci∣ty. * 1.47Galen likewise and Tully affirm it to be of a sweet delicate and good nourishment. Cordan compareth it with Veal, but indeed it is far sweeter: Sturgians livers

are so exceeding sweet, that at Hamborough they rub them over with the broken gall, lest the stomach should be cloyed with over swetness. The great and full grown Sturgians are better then the less, and the Male then the Female; and they which suck and lye at the mouths of Rivers, are counted sweeter then they which are taken in the main sea; it feeds not (as other fish do) upon flies, worms, fish-spawne or roots, but sucketh like a Lamprey (because it hath no teeth) of such sweet mor∣sels or offall as happily it findeth. One thing is admira∣ble in this fish, that albeit clean contrary to other fishes the scales turn toward the head; yet against the side and stream it swimeth fasteth▪ Physicians forbid all Sturgi∣an (especially the head and fore-rand) to aguish persons and such as be lately recovered of agues; because they are so fat and oily, that their stomachs will convert them into choler. At Danske and Hamborough (whence we have the best) sometimes they are roasted, being stickt full of cloves; but then the belly onely is toothsome, which eateth like Veal, or rather better, if such sawce be made unto it as we use to roasted Venison. Other∣whiles they are broild and basted with oil and vinegar, having been first a little corned with salt; but if Stur∣gian be well sod, and then kept in convenient pickle, of all other preparations it is the chiefest, being eaten with vinegar and sweet fennel.

They are first sod in two parts of water, one of white wine, and one of white wine vinegar, with sufficient salt, verveine and dill, as long as one would seeth a legg of Veal; then being cold, they are divided into jouls and rands, and put up into barrels or kegs, with store of Rhe∣nish wine, wine▪vinegar, and seawater; wherein having lain half a year, they become a light, toothsome and sin∣gular good meat, to an indifferent and temperate sto∣mach.

As for Cavialie, or their eggs being poudred, let Turks, Grecians, Venetians, and Spaniards, celebrate them never so much, yet the Italian Proverb will ever be true.

Chi mangia di Caviale, Mangia moschi merdi & salae. He that eateth of Cavialies▪ Eateth falt, dung, and flies.

I commend the flesh of Sturgian chiefly to hot and distasted stomachs, to young men, and especially in Som∣mer; at which time (eaten with gilly-flour vinegar) it slaketh thirst, sharpneth appetite, setleth the stomach, delayeth heat, and giveth both a temperate and a sound nourishment.

Xiphij.

Sword-fishes are much whiter and pleasanter in taste then Tunny; but as hard of digestion, and therefore unworthy any longer discourse.

Raja.

[ T] Thornback, which Charles Chester merily and not unfitly calleth Neptunes beard, was extolled by Antiphanes in Athenaeus history for a dainty fish; indeed it is of a plea∣sant taste, but of a stronger smell then Skate, over-moist to nourish much, but not so much as to hinder lust, which it mightily encreaseth. Albertus thinks it as hard to be concocted as any beefe; whose judgement I suspect, * 1.48sith Hippocrates permits it in long Consumptions: Assuredly if not the flesh, yet the liver is marvelous sweet and of great nourishment, which the very taste and consistence thereof will sufficiently demonstrate. Thorneback is good sodden, especially the liver of it, * 1.49though Dorion the Musitian said, That a sodden

Thornback is like a piece of sodden Cloth; but the flesh is best broiled after it hath been sodden▪ to con∣sume the watrishness.

Thynni.

Tunies are best when they are leanest; namely, to∣wards the Fall and the dead of Winter. When they are at the best, their flesh is unsavoury enough, cloying an indifferent stomach, and engendering most gross and superfluous moistures. As Porpesses must be baked while they are new, so Tunny is never good till it have been long pouldred with salt, vinegar, coriander, and hot spices. No Tunny lives past two years, waxing so fat that their bellies break: at which time more gain is made of their fat, by making Train-oyl for Clothiers, then good by their flesh; which is only good, (if good at all) for Spanish and Italian Mariners.

Rhombi.

Turbuts, which some call the Sea-Pheasant, were in old time counted so good and delicate, that this Proverb grew upon them, Nihil ad Rhombum; that is to say, What is all this in comparison of a Turbutt. Verily, whilst they be young, (at which time they are called Butts) their flesh is moist, tender, white, and pleasant; afterwards they are harder to be digested, though more crumbling to feel to: and as their prickles wax longer, so their flesh waxeth tougher. They are best being sodden as you seeth Thornback; or rather as you seeth a grown Plaise.

Balaenae.

[ W] Whales flesh is the hardest of all other, and unusuall to be eaten of our Countrymen, no not when they are very young and tenderest; yet the livers of Whales, Sturgians, and Dolphins smell like violets, taste most pleasantly being salted, and give competent nourishment as Cardan writeth.

Onisci. Albulae. Molliculae.

Whitings had never staid so long in the Court of Eng∣land (where they are never wanting upon a fish day) un∣less they had done some notable service, and still deserv∣ed their entertainment; the best Whitings are taken in Tweede, called Merlings, of like shape and vertue with ours, but far bigger; all Physitians allow them for a light, wholesome and good meat, not denying them to sick persons, and highly commending them to such as be in health; they are good sodden with salt and time, and their livers are very restorative, yea more then of other fishes: they are also good broild, and dried after the manner of Stockfish into little Buckhorne; but then they are fitter (as Stockfish is) to dry up moistures in a rhumatick stomach, then to nourish the body.

Colybdaenae.

[ Y] Yards or shamefishes (so called because they resemble * 1.50the yard of a man) are by Galens judgement as agreeable to weak stomachs, as Crabs, Shrimps, & Crevisses. Gesner in his book of fishes, saith that the French men call this * 1.51fish the Asses-prick, and Dr Wotton termeth it grosly the Pintle fish. How shameful a name so ever it beareth, it needs not be ashamed of his vertues; for it nourisheth much, is light of concoction, and encreaseth nature.

Yellow heads or Giltpoles are before spoken of, next before Gurnards. And thus much of Sea fish; now fresh water fish challenge their due remembrance, of which we will treat in the next Chapter.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Lib. 32 cap. 7
• * 1.2

  Plin. l. 9. c. 29.
• * 1.3

  3. de simp. sac.
• * 1.4

  Athen. l. 8. c. 6.
• * 1.5

  Vict. l. 18. c. 17. var. lect.
• * 1.6

  Gal 9. comp. sec. loc.
• * 1.7

  de alim fac.
• * 1.8

  lib. de af••••. int.
• * 1.9

  3. de. al. fa c. 31
• * 1.10

  cap. 185.
• * 1.11

  This Asellus is also by Jul. Scaliger, aud ••ac. Cujacius rendred stock∣fish perhaps because like unto the Afse, not serviceable or fit for use til wel beaten.
• * 1.12

  Athen.
• * 1.13

  lib 9. cap. 3.
• * 1.14

  Plin. l. 31. c. ••.
• * 1.15

  Arnol. de vil. nou. com. in▪ Sch. Sal.
• * 1.16

  Aelianus.
• * 1.17

  Plin. l. 9 cap. 8.
• * 1.18

  Plin. l. 32. c. 7.
• * 1.19

  L. de Venereis.
• * 1.20

  Plin. 9. c. 17.
• * 1.21

  L de diff. anim.
• * 1.22

  lib. 32 c. 9.
• * 1.23

  Plin. l. 32. c. 1.
• * 1.24

  Plin. l. 32. ca. 6.
• * 1.25

  Plin. l. 32. ca. 6.
• * 1.26

  De cib bon. &. mal. succ.
• * 1.27

  Loco citato.
• * 1.28

  Athen. l 4 c. 3. Mac 3. sat. c. 13
• * 1.29

  Su. in vita Ti••.
• * 1.30

  C••lcus. Trallianus.
• * 1.31

  Gal. 5. de. sa. tu
• * 1.32

  Gregr. hist. l. 9.
• * 1.33

  Lib. 32. cap. 6.
• * 1.34

  Seneca in ep.
• * 1.35

  Gal. 8. de comp med. sec. loc.
• * 1.36

  Apic. l. 7. c. 16.
• * 1.37

  Lib. 1. de morb▪ mul.
• * 1.38

  Lae. in vit. Dio.
• * 1.39

  Lib 32 cap. 11
• * 1.40

  Pli. lib 9▪ c. 51.
• * 1.41

  Plin. li. 9. ••. 51.
• * 1.42

  com 1. epid. 3▪ cap. 4.
• * 1.43

  lib. de pisc▪
• * 1.44

  Lib. colloq.
• * 1.45

  cap. 184.
• * 1.46

  Suet. in vita. Sever.
• * 1.47

  Gal▪ de Euchy & cacochym. cic. 1. Tuscu∣lan quaest.
• * 1.48

  Lib. de morb. int.
• * 1.49

  Athen. l. 8. c. 5.
• * 1.50

  De comp. med. sec. loc.
• * 1.51

  li. de dif. anim.