Purchas his pilgrimes. part 2 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part.

§. V.

Visiting of Emaus and Bethlehem, and other places: Also other obseruations of the Ierosolymitan Holies.

VPon Easter Munday wee hired certaine Asses to ride to Emaus, accompanied with a Guard, and certaine of the Friers. About the mid-way, at the foot of a hill, there are the ruines of a Monasterie, built by Saint Helena: they say, in that place where Iesus appeared to the two Disciples. Here the Latines performed certaine deuotions, and tooke of the stones (as generally they did from all such like places) preserued as precious. [ 10] Emaus stands seuen miles off, and West of Ierusalem. The way thither mountainous, and in ma∣ny * 1.1 places as if paued with a continuall rocke; yet where there is earth, sufficiently fruitfull. It was seated (for now it is not) vpon the South side of a hill, ouer-looking a little valley, fruitfull in Fountaines. Honoured with the presence of our Sauiour, who there was knowne by the breaking of bread in the house of Cleophas his Coosin-german, and afterward the second Bishop of Ierusalem. In the selfe-same place a Temple was erected by Paula (a Roman Ladie, of whom we shall speake hereafter) whose ruines are yet extant, neere the top of the Mountaine; vnto which the Arabians would not suffer vs to ascend, who inhabite below in a few poore Cotta∣ges, vntill we had payed Caphar they demanded. This Citie was burnt in the Iewish warres, [ 20] by the commandement of Varus; and vpon the destruction of Ierusalem, re-edified by the Ro∣manes; who in regard of their victorie, called it Nicopolis. In the yeere 131. throwne downe * 1.2 by an earth-quake, it was fourescore and twelue yeeres after restored by the Emperour Marcus Aurelius; and afterward dignified during the gouernment of the Christians with an Episcopall Sea, being vnder the Metropolitan of Caesarea. Nicephorus, and the Tripartite historie report of a miraculous Fountaine by the high-way side, where Christ would haue departed from the two Disciples: who when he was conuersant vpon earth, and wearied with a longer iourney, there washed his feet; from thenceforth retayning a curable vertue against all diseases. But relations of that kind, haue credite onely in places farre distant. In our returne, wee inclined a little to the left hand, and after a while ascended the top of a Mountaine, (whose Westerne valley [ 30] was the field, they say, of that battell, when the Sunne and Moone stood still at the comman∣dement of Iosua.) Out of the ruines of an ancient building, a small Mosque is aduanced; where they hold that the Prophet Samuel was buried, who had his Sepulchre in Rama on Mount E∣phraim; though diuers other Townes so seated, are so called, which signifieth High in their Lan∣guage. But our guides were well practised in that precept:

Of Streames, Kings, Fashions, Kingdomes askt, there showne; Answer to all: th'vnknowne relate as knowne.

Atque aliqua ex illis dum regum nomina quaerunt Quae loca, qui mores, quaeue feruntur aquae: Omnia responde; nec tantum si qua rogabit, Et quae nesciris, vt bene nota refer. Ouid.

who endeauour to bring all remarkable places within the compasse of their processions. The [ 40] Mahometans either deceiued with this tradition, or maintayning the report of their profite, would not suffer vs to enter but at an excessiue rate; which wee refused to part with. The next Mountaine vnto this, doth weare on his Crowne, the ruines of a Castle that belonged to the Machabees. Another more humble, and neerer the Citie, presenteth a pile of stones, square, flat, and solid: the Sepulchre, they say, of the seuen brethren who were tortured to death by Antiochus, whom I rather iudge to haue beene buried at Moden, the ancient seat of that Fami∣lie; * 1.3 which stands on the vttermost confines of the Mountaines of Iudea, where were to be seene seuen Sepulchres of white marble, each bearing a Pyramis on his square; said by Iosephus to haue serued in his time for Sea-markes. From hence we approached the North-west side of the Citie, where in the Vineyards are sundry places of buriall hewen out of the maine rocke; a∣mongst [ 50] the rest, one called the Sepulchre of the Prophets. The first entrance large, and like the mantle-tree of a chimney, cut curiously on the out-side: through which we crept into a little square roome, (euery one carrying a light in his hand) the sides cut full of holes (in manner of a Doue-house:) two yards deepe, and three quarters square. Out of that roome wee descended by two streight passages into two other roomes, likewise vnder ground: yet more spacious, and of better workmanship, but so rounded with the Sepulchres as the former; neighboured with a Vault, which serues for a Cisterne, and filled with a liuing Fountaine. A little beyond, vpon the West side of a large square Court, hewen into the rocke some three fathoms deepe, and en∣tred vnder an arch of the same, there is another mansion for the dead, hauing a porch like to that of the Prophets: and garnisht without (amongst other figures) with two great clusters of [ 60] Grapes, in memoriall of those, as they say, which were brought by the spies into the host of the Hebrewes. On the left hand you creepe through a difficult descent, which leadeth into faire roomes vnder the ground, and one within another, benched about with coffins of stone bereaft of their couers, there being some bones yet remayning in some of them. This is famed to bee

the houshold Monument of certaine of the Kings of Iuda. In which there is nothing more ad∣mirable, then is the artificiall contriuing of the doores, the hinges and all, of the selfe-same stone, vnseperated from the rocke without other suppliment. Hitherto (if not further) by all likelihood the old Citie extended. From hence we returned to the Couent.

The day following wee rode towards Bethlehem, which stands about sixe miles South from Ierusalem. Going out from the gate of Ioppa, and turning on the left hand by the foot of Mount Sion. Aloft on whose vttermost angle stood the Tower of Dauid, (whose ruines are yet extant) of a wonderfull strength, and admirable beautie, adorned with shields, and the armes of the mightie. Below on the right hand of the way in our passage, they shewed vs a Fountaine at the Southside of a square Serraglio; deliuered to be that wherein Bersheba bathed. North of [ 10] which, the valley is crossed with a ruinous Aquaduct, which conueyed water vnto the Temple * 1.4 of Salomon. Ascending the opposite Mountaine, we passed through a Countrey, hilly and stony: yet not vtterly forsaken of the Vine, though onely planted by Christians, in many places pro∣ducing Corne, here shadowed with the fig-tree, and there with the Oliue. Sundry small Tur∣rets dispersed about, which serue for solace as well as for safe-guard. Some two miles from the Citie, on the left hand, and by the high-way side, there groweth a Turpentine-tree yet flouri∣shing, which is said to haue affoorded a shelter to the Virgin Marie, as shee passed betweene Beth∣lehem * 1.5 and Ierusalem. This tradition how euer absurd, is generally beleeued by those Christians: a place of high repute in their deuotions. Towards the West about two miles off, on a little hill stands an ancient Tower: which is said, to haue beene the habitation of Simeon. A mile [ 20] * 1.6 beyond the foresaid Tree, in the midst of the way there is a Cisterne, vast within, and square at the mouth; which is called the Cisterne of the Starre. For that (as they say) the wise-men of the East, there first againe did see that conducting Starre, which went before them to the place * 1.7 of our Sauiours natiuitie. A little on the right hand there are the small remaynes of an ancient Monasterie, built, they affirme, in that place where the Angell tooke vp Abacuck by the haire of the head, and conueyed him to Babylon. Halfe a mile further, on the left side of the way, there is another Religious house, but in good repaire, in forme of a Fortresse, and enuironed with high walls, to withstand the insolencies of the Infidels; possessed by the Greeke Coloieros, and dedicated to Elias. Hard by there is a flat rocke, whereon they told vs that the Prophet accu∣stomed * 1.8 to sleepe; and that it beares as yet the impression of his bodie. Indeed there are certaine [ 30] hollowes in the same, but not by my eyes apprehended to retayne any manly proportion. As farre beyond are the decayes of a Church, which stood (as they say) in the place where the Patriarch Iacob inhabited. About a mile further West of the way, and a little off, stands the * 1.9 Sepulchre of Rachel, (by the Scripture affirmed to haue beene buried here about) if the entire∣nesse * 1.10 thereof doe not confute the imputed antiquitie: yet kept perhaps in repaire by her off∣spring, as a Monument of venerable memorie. The Tombe it selfe resembleth a great Trunke, couered with a Cupolo mounted on a square, which hath on each side an ample arch sustayned onely by ••he corners. This is enuironed with a foure-square wall; within which stand two o∣ther, little, but of the same proportion; kept, and vsed for a place of prayer by the Ma∣hometans. Below it on the side of a Mountaine stands the ruines of that Rama, whereof the [ 40] Prophet: A voyce was heard in Rama, Rachel weeping for her children, &c. From this ridge of the hills, the Dead Sea doth appeare as if neere at hand: but not so found by the traueller, for that those high declining Mountaines are not to be directly descended. Within halfe a mile * 1.11 of Bethlehem, separated from the same by a valley, and a little on the left hand of the way, are the Cisternes of Dauid, whereof he so much desired to drinke, and when they brought him of * 1.12 the water, refused it: a large deepe Vault, now out of vse, hauing onely two small tunnels at the top, by which they draw vp the water.

And now wee are come to Bethlehem, where in a Grot at the East side of the Citie, employed * 1.13 for a Stable (the Inne being pestred with strangers) the Virgin fell in trauell, and produced vn∣to the world a Sauiour. In this Caue from the time of Adrian, vnto the raigne of Constantine, [ 50] they celebrated the impious lamentation of Adonis (much honoured by the Syrians) who aboue * 1.14 had his Statue shadowed with a groue of Myrtles: which the vertuous Helena subuerted, and erected thereupon this goodly Temple yet entire, and possest by the Franciscans of Ierusalem, of whomsome few are here continually resident; called Saint Maries of Bethlehem: in forme * 1.15 representing a Crosse the stalke whereof compriseth the bodie; entred at the lower end through a Portico sustayned with sixteene Pillars. The roofe, in the midst, is lofty, flat, and (if I for∣get not) of Cedar: the Sides, of the same fabricke, but much more humble, are vpheld with foure rankes of Pillars (ten in a row) each of one entire marble, white, and in many places beautifully speckled; the largest, and fairest that euer I saw, whose vpper ends doe declare that they haue in part beene exquisitely gilded: The walls are flagged with large tables of white [ 60] marble, wel-nigh to the top; the rest adorned with Mosaique painting, although now greatly defaced. It is both here reported, and recorded by historie, that a Sultan of Egypt allured with their beautie, set certaine Masons aworke, to take downe those Tables, with intent to haue transported them vnto his Castle of Cairo; when a dreadfull serpent issued out of the wall, and

brake in pieces such as were remoued: so that terried therewith, he desisted from his enterprise. The three vpper ends of the Crosse, doe end in three Semi-circles, hauing in each an Altar. In the midst ••he Chancell, roofed with a stately Cupolo, couered without with Lead, and garnished within with Mosaique figures.

This Church is left for the most part desolate, the Altars naked, no Lamps maintained, no * 1.16 Seruice celebrated, except at times extraordinary: yet are there a few poore Greekes and Arme∣nians, who inhabite within on the right hand of the entrance, and in the opposite corners. Ad∣ioyning on the left hand, stands the Monastery of the Franciscans, entred through the Church, sufficiently spacious, but of no commendable building; accommodated with diuers Gardens, and enuironed with defencible walls; at whose North-west corner a tottered Tower doth challenge regard for the waste receiued in that places protection. They brought vs into their [ 10] Chappell, not slightly set forth, and dedicated to Saint Katherine, hauing Indulgences conferred thereupon from Mount Sina. From which wee descended with Lights in our hands, and then were led by a narrow long entry into a little square Caue, supported in the midst with a Pillar of the Rocke. On the left hand, an Altar, and vnder that a passage into a Vault; wherein, they say, that the Infants slaine, by the bloudy Edict of Herod, were buried. Out of this Caue or * 1.17 Chappell, there are two other entries: in that on the right hand, stands the Sepulcher of Euse∣bius the Confessor, and Disciple vnto Saint Ierome: this directeth into another Grot, wherein are two Tombes, in forme not vnlike vnto Altars: the farther contained the body of Paula a * 1.18 Romane Ladie, descended of the ancient families of the Gracchi and Cornelij. She built foure Monasteries neare adioyning to this Temple, (whose ruines do yet giue testimony of her pietie,) [ 20] one she planted with men; the three other with Virgins, who neuer past the bounds of their Couents but on Sundayes onely, (and then attending on their seuerall Gouernesses) to performe the Orasons in the Church, and Caue of the Natiuitie: her selfe the Abbesse of one of them, and so for the space of twentie yeares did continue. She likewise built an adioyning Hospitall for Pilgrims, whose ruines declare it to haue beene no meane Fabricke. The other Tombe did couer the body of Saint Ierome, who liued in her time, and in the Monasterie which shee had founded: his bones, together with the bones of Eusebius, were translated to Rome, and shrined in the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore; ouer which, Pope Sixtus Quintus hath erected a sump∣tuous Chappell. Out of this we past into another Grot, which they call his Cell; wherein hee lay (as they say) full fiftie yeares and sixe moneths, and there twice translated the Bible. Re∣turning [ 30] into the aforeseid Chappell of the Innocents, by the other entry we passed into a Vault or Chappell, twelue foote wide, fortie long, and fifteene in height: the sides and floore all lined with faire white Marble: the compassed roofe adorned with Mosse-worke, and Mosaique Gil∣ding, though now much perished. At the vpper end, in an arched Concaue, stands an Altar gar∣nished with a Table of the Natiuitie. Vnder this a Semi-circle; the sole set forth with stones of seuerall colours, in the forme of a Starre: and in the midst a Serpentine, there set to vp∣hold the memory of that place where our Sauiour was borne: the credite whereof I will nei∣ther impeach, nor inforce. In this Citie it was, and in a stable; nor is the report by the site re∣futed, though vnder ground, hewne out of the liuing Rocke, as is the rest before spoken of. For he that trauels through these Countries, will not wonder to see such Caues imployed to like v∣ses. [ 40] Neither is it likely, that they that succeeded those times so neerely, should erre in the place so celebrated in their deuotions, and beautified with such cost. On either side of this Altar in the Corners, there are two equall ascents, which Land on the opposite out-sides of the Chan∣cell, closed with doores of Brasse cut through, through which they passe in their solemne Pro∣cession. Now on the South side, and neere vnto the foote of the staires, you descend by three steps into a lesser Grot: separated onely from the former, by three fine Columnes of discoloured Marble, which seeme to support the ouer-hanging Rocke. On the West side there is a Manger hewne out in a Concaue, about two foote high from the floore, and a little way hallowed with∣in: wherein, they say, that our New-borne Sauiour was laid by the Virgine; now flagged a∣bout with white Marble, as the Rocke that roofes it; at the left end sustained with a short Ser∣pentine. [ 50] In the bottome of this Manger, and iust in the middle, a round Serpentine is set, to denote the place where he lay, which retaineth, as they would make vs beleeue, the effigies of Saint Ierome, miraculous framed by the naturall veines of the stone, in reward of his often and * 1.19 affectionate kisses. But surely, they bee the eyes of Faith that must apprehend it: yet present they it in Picture. On the opposite side of this Grot, there is a Bench in the Rocke, not vnlike to an Altar: where the Magi of the East, that were conducted hither by the Starre, disposed, (as they say) of their Presents.

These places be in the keeping of the Franciscans, and not lesse reuerenced then Caluarie, or the Sepulcher, visited also by the Mahometan Pilgrimes. Where Lamps still burning do expell [ 60] the naturall darknesse; and giue a greater State thereunto, then the light of the day could af∣foord it. Baldwine the second did honor this place with an Episcopall Sea (being before but a Priorie) adioyning thereunto, together with the Church of Ascalon, many Townes and Villa∣ges. In the place where this Citie stood, there are now but a few poore Cottages standing. Most

of the few Inhabitants Greekes and Armenians, who get a beggerly liuing by selling vnto stran∣gers the Models of the Sepulcher, and of the Grot of the Natiuitie; cut in wood, or cast in stone, with Crosses, and such like Merchandizes, and in being seruiceable vnto Pilgrims.

After dinner we descended a foote into the Valley which lyeth East of the Citie, fruitfull in pasturage, where Iacob fed his flocke (at this day called his field) neere the Tower of Adar; * 1.20 but more famous for the Apparition of the Angels, who there brought to the Shepheards the * 1.21 glad-tidings of our Saluation. In the midst of the field, on the selfe-same place, as is supposed, and two miles distant from Bethlehem, Saint Helena erected a Church, and dedicated it to the Angels; now nothing but ruines. Returning from thence, and turning a little on the left hand, we came to the Village where those Shepheards dwelt, as yet so called: in the midsts whereof there [ 10] standeth a Well; the same, as the rumor goeth, that the blessed Virgine desired to drinke of, * 1.22 when the churlish Villagers refusing to draw her vp water, it forth-with miraculously flowed to the brim; greedy to passe through her blessed lips, and satisfie her longing. Of this the Arabs would not suffer vs to drinke before we had giuen them Money. Neerer to Bethlehem, and at the foote of the hill, are the ruines of a Chappell, where Ioseph (as they say) had his dwelling, at such time as the Angell commanded him to flie into Aegypt. Neere the top, and not farre from the backe of the Monasterie, there is a Caue containing two roomes, one within, another de∣scended into by a narrow entrance, and in some places supported by Pillars. In this it is said, that Ioseph hid our Sauiour and his Mother, whilst he prepared things necessarie for his iourney. The stone thereof puluerated, and often washed, of much a little will remaine, and not vnlike to refined Chalke; which taken in drinke, is said to haue a Soueraigne vertue, in restoring Milke [ 20] both to Women and Cattell, much vsed by the Moores themselues for that purpose. Ouer which stood one of the Nunneries built by Paula, now onely shewing the foundation, and where∣in she dyed. These places seene, we re-entred the Monasterie, and there reposed our selues the night following.

Each of vs bestowing a piece of Gold on the Vicar, betimes in the morning we departed, ben∣ding our course to the Mountaines of Iudaea, lying West from Bethlehem: neere to which, on the side of the opposite hill, we past by a little Village, called (as I take it) Bezec; inhabited onely by Christians: mortall (as they say) to the Mahometans, that attempted to dwell therein. About * 1.23 two miles further we passed by Bethsur, seated in a bottome betweene two rocky Mountaines, [ 30] * 1.24 once a strong Fort: first built by Rhoboam, and after repaired by the Machabies: famous for sun∣dry sieges; being in the vpper way betweene Ierusalem and Gaza, where wee saw the ruines of an ample Church; below that, a Fountaine not vnbeholding by Art, whose pleasant Waters are forth-with drunke vp by the earth that produced them. Heere, they say, that Philip baptized the Eunuch; whereupon it retaineth the name of the Aethiopian Fountaine. And no question, * 1.25 but the adioyning Temple was erected out of deuotion to the honour of the place, and memo∣rie of the fact. Yet seemeth it strange vnto me, that a Chariot should be able to passe those roc∣ky and declining Mountaines, where almost a Horse can hardly keepe footing. Hauing trauelled about a mile and a halfe further, we came to the Caue where Iohn the Baptist is said to haue liued * 1.26 from the age of seuen, vntill such time as hee went vnto the Wildernesse by Iordan, sequestred [ 40] from the abode of men, and feeding on such wilde nourishment as these vninhabited places af∣foorded. This Caue is seated on the Northerne side of a desart Mountaine (onely beholding to the Locust tree) hewne out of the precipitating Rocke, so as difficultie to be ascended or descen∣ded to: entred at the East corner, and receiuing light from a window in the side. At the vpper end there is a Bench of the selfe-same Rocke, whereon (as they say) he accustomed to sleepe; of which, who so breakes a piece off, stands forth-with excommunicate. Ouer this, on a little flat, stands the ruines of a Monasterie, on the South side naturally walled with the steepe of the Mountaine: from whence there gusheth a liuing Spring, which entreth the Rocke, and againe bursteth forth beneath the mouth of the Caue; A place that would make solitarinesse delight∣full, and stand in comparison with the turbulent pompe of Cities. This ouer-looketh a profound Valley, on the far side he〈…〉〈…〉'd with aspiring Mountaines; whereof some are cut (or naturally so) [ 50] in degrees like Allies, which would bee else vnaccessably fruitfulesse, whose leuels yet beare the stumps of decayed Vines, shadowed not rarely with Oliues and Locusts. And surely I thinke, that all, or most of those Mountaines haue beene so husbanded, else could this little Countrey haue neuer sustained such a multitude of people. After wee had fed of such prouision as was brought vs from the Citie, by other of the Fraternitie that there met vs, wee returned towards Ierusalem, leauing the way of Bethlehem on the right hand, and that of Emaus on the left. The first place of note that wee met with, was there where once stood the dwelling of Zacharie, seated on the side of a fruitfull hill, well stored with Oliues and Vineyards. Hither came the * 1.27 blessed Virgine to visite her Cousin Elizabeth. Here died Elizabeth, and here in a Grot on the side [ 60] of a Vault or Chappell, lies buried: ouer which a goodly Church was erected, together with a * 1.28 Monasterie; whereof now little standeth but a part of the Wals, which offer to the view some fragments of painting, which shew that the rest haue beene exquisite. Beyond, and lower is our Ladies Fountaine, (so called of the Inhabitants) which maintaineth a little current through

the neighbouring valley. Neere this, in the bottome, and vttermost extent thereof, there stan∣deth a Temple, once sumptuous, now desolate; built by Helena, and dedicated to Saint Iohn Baptist, in the place where Zacharie had another house where the Prophet was borne, in a roome he wen out of the rocke; of principall deuotion with those Christians: possest, as the rest, by the beastly Arabians, who defile it with their Cattell, and employ it to the basert of vses. Transcending the lesse steepe hills, and passing through valleys of their Roses voluntarily plenti∣full; * 1.29 after a while wee came to a Monasterie seated in a streight betweene two rockie Moun∣taines, enuironed with high walls, and entred by a doore of Iron; where a Bishop of the Geor∣gians hath his residence, who curteously entertayned vs. Within they haue a handsome Chap∣pell, at the vpper end an Altar, and vnder that a pit, in which they say that the Palme did [ 10] grow (but rather, if any, the Oliue, whereof that place hath store) of which a part of the Crosse) was made: for it was framed (as they report) of foure seuerall woods; the foot of Ce∣dar, the bole of Cypresse, the transome of Palme, and the title of Oliue. This is called there∣vpon * 1.30 the Monasterie of the holy Crosse. Where in stead of Bells they strike on a hollow beame (as the Grecians doe in the Temple of Golgotha) to summon their assemblies. Betweene this and Ierusalem, we saw nothing worth noting, that hath not beene spoken of already.

The day following, wee went to reuiew the remarkable places about the Citie. Passing by the Castle of the Pisans, on the left hand entring at a little square passage, wee were shewed a small Chappell, the doore and windowes rammed vp; for that (as they say) the Mahometans * 1.31 became mortally sicke, that, though but by chance did come into it, standing where stoo•• the [ 20] Temple of Saint Thomas. From hence wee were brought to the Palace of Annas, destroyed by the Seditious in the time of the siege, where now standeth a Church dedicated to the blessed Angels, and belonging to the Armenians, who haue their dwellings about it. Within the Court there is an old Oliue tree, enuironed with a low wall; vnto which, it is said, that they bound our Sauiour: Turning on the right hand, wee went out at a Port of Sion. South and not farre from thence, on the midst of the mount is the place, as they say, where Christ did eate his last * 1.32 Supper; where also after his resurrection, the doores being shut, hee appeared to his Apostl••••; where they receiued the holy Ghost; where Peter conuerted three thousand; and where, as they say also, they held the first Councel, in which the Apostles Creed was decreed. Here Helena built a most sumptuous Temple including therein a Coenaculum, where that marble Pillar was [ 30] preserued that stood before in the Palace of Pilate, to which they tyed our Sauiour when they whipped him. This Church subuerted by the Saracons, in the selfe-same place the Franciscans had a Monasterie erected, who in the yeere 1561. were remoued by the Turkes: they building here a Mosque of their owne, into which no Christian is permitted to enter. Yet not in the respects aforesaid, so reuerenced by the Infidels, but in that it is deliuered by tradition (and not vnlikely) that Dauid had there his Sepulchre. Betweene this, and the walls of the Citie, the * 1.33 Franckes haue their buriall, where lie sixe English-men, sent (as may bee suspected) vnto their long-homes not many yeeres since, though coloured by the Franciscans, in whose Monasterie they lay, with pretence of Diuiue vengeance for the supposed murder of their Drogaman. Se∣uen they were in all, all aliue and well in one day, sixe dead in the other; the out-liuer becom∣ming [ 40] a conuert to their Religion. Turning a little on the left hand, we came to a small Church, inclosed within a square wall, arched within, with a walke on the top in manner of a Caue; the habitation of the Armenians, who haue of this Church the custodie. Heere flourished the proud Palace of Caiphas, in which our Sauiour was buffetted, spit vpon, and so spitefully reuiled. * 1.34 Here Helena built a faire Church to Saint Peter; but that destroyed, in the roome thereof this lesse was erected, and dedicated to Saint Sauiour. On the right hand in the Court, they vn∣dertake to shew where the fire was made, by which Peter stood when he denied his Master: * 1.35 and at the side of the Church doore, the chapter of a Pillar, whereon the Cooke crowing did moue him to contrition. At the vpper end of the Church, vpon a large Altar lieth a Stone, that * 1.36 (as they say) which was rolled against the mouth of the Sepulchre. [ 50]

From hence we descended into the valley of Gehinnon, which diuideth Mount Sion from the * 1.37 Mountaine of Offence, so called for that Salomon by the perswasion of his wiues there sacrificed to Chamoch and Molech; but now by these Christians called the Mountaine of Ill counsell, where they say, the Pharises tooke counsell against Iesus; whose heighth yet shewe•• the reliques of no meane buildings. This valley is but streight, now seruing for little vse; heretofore most delight∣full, planted with Groues and watered with Fountaines; wherein the Hebrews sacrificed their children to Molech. On the South side of this valley, neere where it meeteth with the valley of Iehosaphat, mounted a good heighth, on the side of the Mountaine is Aceldama, or the field of * 1.38 bloud; purchased with the restored reward of Treason, for a buriall place for strangers. In the midst whereof a large square roome was made by the mother of Constantine: the South side wai∣led [ 60] with the naturall rocke; flat at the top, and equall with the vpper leuell. Out of which ari∣seth certaine small Cupolos open in the midst to let downe the dead bodies. Through which we might see the bottome all couered with bones; and certaine Corses but newly let downe: it being now the Sepulchre of the Armenians. A greedy Graue; and great enough to deuoure

the dead of a whole Nation. For they say, (and I beleeue it) that the Earth thereof within the space of eight and fortie houres, will consume the flesh that is laid thereon. The like is said of * 1.39 Saint Innocents Church-yard in Paris: and he that sees the multitude of bones, that are there piled about it, the daily burials (it being a generall Receptacle for strangers) and smalnesse of the circuit, may be easily induced to credit. And why might not the Earth be transported from hence, as well as that at Rome in Campo Sancto, brought thither in two hundred and seuentie ships by the commandement of the aforesaid Empresse? which though changing soyles retay∣neth her vertue: it being also a place of buriall for Forreiners. In the Rocke about there are diuers Sepulchers, and some in vse at this day: hauing great stones rolled against their mouthes according to the ancient custome. Beyond on the point of the Hill, a Caue hewne out of the [ 10] Rocke, consisting of seuerall Roomes, is said to haue hidden sixe of the Apostles in the time of * 1.40 Christs Passion: first made without doubt for a Sepulcher; and after seruing for an Hermitage: the Roofe of the larger Roome retayning some shew of gilding. Below, where the Valley of Gehinnon and Iehosaphat, like two conioyning streames doe trent to the South, there is a dry Pit; where the Priests are said to haue hid the sacred fire when the Iewes were carried captiue into Ba∣bylon: and seeking it after their returne did find it conuerted into water. But Nehemiah caused * 1.41 it to be sprinkled on the Altar: when forth-with with the beames of the Sunne it miraculously flamed. This Valley of Iehosaphat (so called of that good King) from hence extendeth full North, and then enclineth a little to the West, first presenting (though naturall) no other then a large dry Ditch to the East of the Citie contracted betweene it, and the ouer-pearing Hils of [ 20] the opposite Oliuet. It is said to be about two miles long, and if it be so, but short ones: where broadest fruitfull; watered by the Torrent Cedron, which runneth no longer then fedde with * 1.42 showres: losing his intermitted streames in the Lake of Asphaltis. It was also called the Valley of Cedron, and of the King: where the generall Iudgement shall be, if the Iewes or Latines may be beleeued; who ground their opinions vpon the Prophesie of Ioel: which I will not gain-say, since some of our Diuines haue of late so laboured to approue it. Of the same opinion are the Mahometans. In the wall aboue it, there is a window not farre from the Golden Gate: where they say, that Mahomet shal sit whilst Christ doth execute Iustice. Passing to the Citie side of the * 1.43 Valley, at the foot of the Hill, and East of the South-east corner, is the place where the Pro∣phet Esay was sawne in sunder by the Commandement of Manasses his Grand-father by the [ 30] Mother: and there buried, where there is a little Pauement vsed for a place of Prayer by the Mahometans. Close below this stood the Oke Rognel, where now a white Mulbery is cherished. North of it, in a gut of the Hill (aboue which in the wall stood the Tower) was the fish-poole of Siloe: contayning not aboue halfe an Acre of ground, now dry in the bottome: and beyond * 1.44 the Fountayne that fed it: now no other then a little Trench walled in on the sides, full of fil∣thy water: whose vpper part is obscured by a Building (as I take it a Mosque) where once flou∣rished a Christian Church built by Saint Helena. Depriued of those her salubrious streames; yet held in honour for their former vertues. Passing along wee came to our Ladies Fountayne (vpon what occasion they so call it, is not worth the relating) in a deepe Caue of the Rocke, des∣cended into by a large paire of staires, and replenisht with pleasant waters. Here the Valley [ 40] streightning, and a little beyond no broader then serues for a Channell to the Torrent, on the o∣ther side stands the Sepulcher of Zacharie, who was slaine betweene the Temple and the Altar: * 1.45 all of the naturall Rocke, eighteene foot high, foure square, and beautified with Doricke Co∣lumnes of the same vnseparated stone, sustayning the Cornish, and topt like a pointed Diamond. Close to this there is another in the vpright Rocke; the Front like the side of an open Gallerie, supported with Marble Pillars, now betweene rammed vp with stones. Within a Grot, whi∣ther Iames retyred (as they say) after the Passion of our Sauiour, with purpose neuer to haue re∣ceiued sustenance vntill he had seene him: who in that place appeared vnto him after his Resur∣rection. In memoriall whereof the Christians erected a Church hard by; whose Ruines are now ruined. A little farther there is a stone Bridge of one Arch, which passes the Torrent. In a Rocke [ 50] at the foot thereof, there are certayne Impressions: made (as they say) by our Sauiours feet when they led him through the water. At the East end of this Bridge, and a little on the North, * 1.46 stands the Pillar of Absolon; which he here erected in his life time, to retayne the memorie of his name, in that his Issue Male fayled, (but he was not buried therein) being yet entyre and of a goodly Fabricke: rising in a loftie square; below adorned with halfe Columnes, wrought out of the sides and corners of the Doricke forme: and then changing into a round, a good height * 1.47 higher doth grow to a point in fashon of a Bell: all framed of the growing stone. Against this there lyeth a great heape of stones which increaseth daily. For both Iewes and Mahometans passing by, doe throw stones against it: yet execrating Absolon for his Rebellion aganist Dauid. Adioyning there is a large square, but lower by far, which hath an entrance like the Frontispice [ 60] of a Porch cut curiously without: the earth almost reaching to the top of the entrance: hauing a Grot within hewne out of the Rocke: some say, a Kingly Sepulcher; perhaps appertayning to the former. A little more North and vp the Torrent, at the foot of Oliuet, once stood the Vil∣lage Gethsemani; the place yet fruitfull in Oliues: and hard by the delightfull Garden wherein * 1.48 our Sauiour was betrayed.

They point out the place where he left two of his Disciples, and a little higher the third when he went to pray, and with all the place where he was taken. In this Garden there is also a stone, whereon they say that our Lady sate, and beheld the Martyrdome of Saint Steuen, who suffe∣red on the side of the opposite Hill. Without the said Garden, in the ioyning of two wayes, they shewed vs the place, as they will haue it, where Saint Thomas stood, when incredulous forsooth of our Ladies Assumption, she let fall her Girdle to informe his beliefe.

And now we are come to the Sepulcher of the blessed Virgin, made thus, as it is, by the Mo∣ther of Constantine. Before it a Court; the building aboue ground, a square pile onely, flat at the * 1.49 top, and neatly wrought, like the largest Portico to a Temple. You enter at the South-side, and forth-with descend by a goodly paire of staires of fiftie steps: about the midst of the descent, [ 10] are two small opposite Chappels; in that on the right hand are the Sepulchers of Ioachim and Anna; in that on the left of Ioseph: the Parents and Spouse of the Mother of Iesus. These staires doe leade you into a spacious Church, stretching East and West, walled on each side, and arched aboue with the naturall Rocke. Vpon the right hand in the midst there is a little square Chappell, framed of the eminent Rocke, but flagged both within and without with white Mar∣ble, entred at two doores. At the far side her Tombe, which taketh vp more then the third part of the Room, now in forme of an Altar: vnder which, they say, that she was decently buryed by the Apostles; and the third day after assumed into Heauen by the Angels. In this there burneth eighteen Lamps continually; partly maintained by the Christians, & partly by the Mahometans, who haue this place in an especiall veneration. Neere the East Semicircle of the Church, there standeth a great Altar (ouer which the little light that this darke place hath, doth descend by a [ 20] Cupolo,) neere the West another, but both vnfurnished, and by the former a Well of excellent Water. In a Canton of the Wall, right against the North end of the Sepulcher, there is a Clift in the Rock, where the Turkes do affirme, that our Lady did hide her selfe, when persecuted by the Iewes; into which I haue seene their women to creepe, and giue the cold Rocke affectionate kisses. The opposite Canton is also vsed for an Oratory by the Mahometans, who haue the kee∣ping of the whole, and will not suffer vs to enter of freecost. Remounting the same staires, not farre off on the left hand, towards the East, and not aboue a stone cast from the Garden of Gethsamani, a straite passage descendeth into a vast round Caue, all of the naturall Rocke, the * 1.50 Roofe confirmed with Arches of the same, receiuing a dimme light from a little hole in the top, in times past all ouer curiously painted. The place, they say, where Christ did pray, when in [ 30] that bloudie agonie he was comforted by the Angels. From hence wee bent our course to the Citie. High on the Hill, where three wayes meete, and vpon the flat of a Rocke, is the place where Saint Steuen (who bore the first Palme of Martyrdome) was stoned to death. The stones thereabout haue a red rust on them; which, they say, giue testimonie of his bloud-shed. A little aboue, we entred the Citie at the gate of Saint Steuen, (where on each side a Lion Retrograde doth stand) called in times past the Port of the Valley, and of the flocke; for that the Cattell came in at this gate, which were to be sacrificed in the Temple, and were sold in the Market place adioyning. On the left hand there is a stone bridge, which passeth at the East end of the North wall into the Court of the Temple of Salomon: the head to the Poole Bethesda, vnder∣neath * 1.51 which it hath a conueyance, called also Probaticum, for that the Sacrifices were therein [ 40] washed ere deliuered to the Priests. It had fiue Portsbuilt thereto by Salomon; in which conti∣nually lay number of diseased persons. For an Angell at certaine seasons troubled the water; and he that could next descend thereinto was perfectly cured. Now a great square profunditie, Greene, and vneuen at the bottome, into which a barren Spring doth drill from betweene the stones of the North-ward Wall, and stealeth away almost vndiscerned. The place is for a good depth hewne out of the Rocke, confined aboue on the North-side with a steepe Wall, on the West with high Buildings (perhaps a part of the Castle of Antonia) where are two doores to descend by, now all that are, halfe choked with Rubbidge; and on the South with the Wall of the Court of the Temple: whereof it is fit that something bee spoken; although not suffered to enter without the forfeiture of our liues, or renouncing of our Religion. [ 50]

I will not speake of the former forme, and magnificencie thereof, by sacred Pens so exactly * 1.52 described. First built by Salomon, destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, re-edified by Zerubabel, (yet so far short of the first in glory, that those wept to behold it, who had beheld the former) new built or rather sumptuously repayred by Herod the Great; and lastly, vtterly subuerted by Titus. The Iewes assayed to re-edifie it in the Reigne of Adrian, of whom he slue an infinite number, leuelled it with the floore, and threw the Rubbidge into the Valley of Iebosaphat, to make it lesse steepe, and the place lesse defenceable, planting in the Roome thereof a Groue, which hee conse∣crated vnto Iupiter. Afterward Iulian the Apostata, to disprooue the Prophesie of our Sauiour, did licence the Iewes to re-build it, furnishing them with mony out of his Treasurie: when loe, a terrible Earth-quake shooke downe what they had begun; and a flame bursting forth, deuou∣red [ 60] the Workmen, reported by Amianus Marcellinus a Pagan, and liuing in those times. But who built this that now standeth, is doubtfull. Some doe attribute it to the Christians; others to a Prince of the Arabians, (which is confirmed by the Christians of these Countries) and hee

the Saracen Omer, next Successor vnto Mahomet. Seated it is vpon Mount Moria, in the South∣east corner of the Citie; without doubt in the very place where Salomons stood: the more emi∣nent * 1.53 building consisting of an eight sq••are round of a blewish stone, adorned with adioyning Pillars, and Tarrast aboue. In the midst of the sheluing Roofe, another vpright aspireth, though lesse by far, yet the same in forme and substance with the former, being couered ouer with a Cu∣polo of Lead. To the West of this a long building adioyneth, like the bodie of a Church, com∣past aboue, and no higher then the vnder Tarras of the other, but like it in colour. Now the Court (the same with that of the old Temple) is iust fouresquare euery way, about a flights shoot ouer. In the East Wall, which is also a Wall to the Citie, stands the Golden Gate, (so called in * 1.54 that it was gilded) which belonged onely to the Temple, through which Christ passed twice; [ 10] first in triumph, and after a Captiue. It is said that the Emperour Heraclius returning from his Persian Victory, attempted to haue entred thereat in all his glory; but was miraculously prohibi∣ted, vntill he had put off all his Princely Ornaments; in a simple habite bearing that part of the Crosse of Christ on his shoulders, which he had recouered from the Persians. This Gate is now * 1.55 rammed vp by the Turkes, to preuent as some say, a Prophesie: which is, that the Citie should there be entred by the Christians. A part of the South-side, is also melosed with the wall of the Citie. The rest not inferiour in strength, surrounded with a deepe Trench hewne into the Rocke: though now much choaked, heretofore inhabited in the bottome like a street. In the midst of this out-court, there is another; wherein the aforesaid Mosque doth stand, raised some two yards aboue it, and garnished on the sides with little Turrets, through which ascended; all paued [ 20] with white Marble (the spoile of Christian Churches) where the Mahometans, as well as with∣in, doe performe their particular Oraysons. Sundry low buildings there are adioyning to the wall: as I suppose, the Habitation of their Santons. In the midst of that, on the South-side, there is a handsome Temple couered with Lead; by the Christians called the Church of the Puri∣fication of the Virgine: now also a Mosque. Godfrey of Bullein, with the rest of the Citie tooke this place by assault, and slue within the circuit thereof tenne thousand Saracens. By him then made a Cathedrall Church: erecting Lodgings about it for the Patriarch and his Canons. Into which there are now but two entrances: that on the West; and this Gate ouer the head of the Poole Bethesda (called of old the Horse-gate, for that here they left their Horses, it beeing not lawfull to ride any further) resembling the Gate of a Citie. One thing by the way may bee no∣ted: [ 30] that whereas our Churches turne to the East. The Temple of Salomon regarded the West, perhaps in respect of Mount Caluarie.

Repassing the aforesaid Bridge, (seeing we might proceed no farther) on the North-side of the street that stretcheth to the West, now in a remote corner, stood the House of Iaachim, where a goodly Church was built to the honour of Saint Anna, with a Monasterie adioyning: of which some part yet remayneth, but polluted with the Mahometan Superstition. Turning backe, we * 1.56 tooke vp the said street to the West: not far onward, at the left hand stood the Palace of Pilate, without all question the Castle of Antonia, neere adioyning to the wall of the Temple, where now the Sanziacke hath his Residence; depriued of those lofty Towers, and scarce appearing a∣boue the wals that confine it. On the right hand, at the far end of a street that pointeth to the [ 40] North, stood the stately Mansion of Herod: of which some signe there are left, that witnesse a perished excellency. Now at the West corner of that of Pilates, where the wall for a space doth turne to the East, there are a paire of high staires which leade to the place of Iustice, and Throne of the Romane President, where the Sauiour of the World, was by the World condemned. The staires that they say then, were called Scala Sancta, I haue seene at Rome neere Saint Iohns in the * 1.57 Lateran; translated thither by Constantine. Three paire there are in one Front, diuided but by wals: the middlemost those: being of white Marble, and eighteene in number; ascended and worne by the knees of the Suppliants, who descend by the other. At the top there is a little Chappell called Sanctum Sanctorum, where they neuer say Masse: and vpon this occasion. A holy Father in the Roome adioyning, hauing consumed most part of the night in his Deuotions, [ 50] * 1.58 is said, an houre before the dawning, to haue seene a procession of Angels passe by him, some singing, and others perhaps that had worse voyces, bearing Torches: amongst whom Saint Pe∣ter with the Eucharist; who executed there his Pontificall Function: and that done returned. This rumored the day following about the Citie, numbers of people flockt thither; who found the Roome all to be dropt with Torches in confirmation of this Relation. Whereupon decreed it was, that not any (as not worthy) should say Masse on that Altar. Now the way betweene the place of those staires and Mount Caluarie, is called the Dolorous way: alongst which our Sa∣uiour was led to his Passion: in which they say, (and shew where) that hee thrice fell vnder the * 1.59 weight of his Crosse. And a little beyond there is an ancient Arch that crosseth the street, and supporteth a ruined Gallerie: in the East-side a two arched window, where Pilate presented [ 60] Christ to the people. An hundred paces farther, and on the left hand there are the Relikes of a Church, where they say that the blessed Virgin stood when her Sonne passed by, and fell into a trance at the sight of that killing Spectacle. Sixtie sixe paces beyond (where this street doth meete with that other which leadeth to Port Ephraim, now called the Gate of Damascus) they

say, that they met with Simon of Cyrene, and compelled him to assist our Sauiour in the bearing * 1.60 of his burthen. Turning a little on the left hand, they shewed vs where the women wept, and he replyed; Weepe not for me you Daughters of Ierusalem, &c. Then turning againe on the right, we passed vnder a little arch, neere which a house ascended by certain steps; the place where Veronica dwelt, who gaue our Sauiour, as they say, a Napkin as he passed by the doore, to cleanse his face * 1.61 from the bloud which trickled from his Thorne-pierst browes; and spittle wherewith they had despitefully defiled him: who returned it againe enriched with his liuely counterfeit, now to be seene at Rome vpon Festiuall dayes, in Saint Peters Church in the Uatican. Fronting the far end of this street, an ancient Gate which stood in the West wall of the old Citie, yet resists the sub∣uersions of time, called by Nehemia, the old Gate; by the Iebusites the Port of Iebus, and the [ 10] Gate of Iudgement; for that the Elders there sate in Iustice: through which the condemned were led to execution vnto Mount Caluarie: then two hundred twentie paces without, and a little on the left hand; though now almost in the heart of the Citie. From hence we ascended the East-side of Mount Caluarie (eight hundred paces from the Palace of Pilate) and so descen∣ded into the Court of the Temple of the Sepulcher. Right against it are the ruines of loftie buildings, heretofore the Alberges of the Knight Hospitallers of Saint Iohns. Turning to the South we were shewed, where once stood the dwelling of Zebedeus, in which Iames and Iohn * 1.62 were borne heretofore a Collegiat Church, but now a Mosque. A little higher wee came to the Iron Gate, a passage in times past betweene the vpper Citie, and the neather (which gaue way vnto Peter conducted by the Angell) built by Alexander the Great: who hauing taken Tyrus, [ 20] and the Sea-bordering Cities of Phoenicia and Palestine, begirt Ierusalem with his Armie: when on a sudden the Gates were set open, Iaddus the High Priest issuing forth, clothed in his Pontifi∣call Habit, and followed with a long trayne in white Rayments: whom Alexander espying, aduanced before the rest of the company; and when he drew neere fell prostrate before him. For it came vnto his remembrance, how once in Dio a Citie of Macedon, consulting with him∣selfe about his Asian Enterprize, he had seene in a Vision one so apparelled, who bid him boldly proceed, and told him that the God whom he serued would protect his Armie, and make him Lord of the Persian Monarchie. Then hand in hand they entred the Citie, the High Priest con∣ducting him vnto the Temple, where hee sacrificed vnto God according to the manner of the Hebrewes: Iaddus expounding vnto him the Prophesies of Daniel, which foretold of his victo∣ries. [ 30] From thence we proceeded vnto the House of Saint Marke, of which an obscure Church in the custodie of the Sorians doth retayne the memory. And beyond, we came to the Church of Saint Iames, standing in the place where he was beheaded; erected by the Spaniards, together * 1.63 with an Hospitall, and now possest by the Armenians. This seene, we returned to the Couent.

The day following, wee went out (as before) at the Port of Sion. Turning on the left hand * 1.64 along the wall, wee were shewed the place where Peter wept, when hee had denyed our Saui∣our; dignified once with a Church, and whereof there now remayneth some part of the founda∣tion. Right against it there is a Posterne in the wall, formerly called Port Esqueline; at which they bore forth the filth of the Citie. The foundation of this part of the wall is much more ancient, and much more strong then the rest, consisting of blacke stones of a mightie size. Not [ 40] farre beyond, we crossed the Valley of Iehosaphat, and mounted the South end of Mount Oliuet, by the way of Bethania. Hauing ascended a good height, on the right hand they shewed vs where Iudas hanged himselfe (the stumpe of the Sycamore, as they say, not long since extant) * 1.65 being buried in a Grot that adioyneth. Neerer the top where Christ cursed the fig-tree, many there growing at this present. Descending the East-side of the Mountaine, a little on the left hand, we came to a desolate Chappell, about which diuers ruines; the Houses heretofore of Simon the Leper. From thence we descended vnto the Castle of Lazarus, (whereof yet there is some∣thing extant) the Brother to Marie and Martha: close vnder which lyes Bethania, (••wo * 1.66 miles from Ierusalem) now a tottered Village, inhabited by Arabians. In it the Vault where Christ raysed Lazarus from death; square and deepe, descended into by certaine steps. Aboue * 1.67 [ 50] are two little Chappels, which haue in either of them an Altar: where stood a stately Church erected by Saint Helena: and after that an Abbey, Queene Milisend the Foundresse. A little North of Bethania, we came to the ruines of a Monasterie, now leuell with the floore, seated in the place vnto which the penitent Marie retyred from the corrupting vanities of the Citie. South-ward of this, and not far off, flood the House of Martha, honoured likewise with a * 1.68 Temple, and ruinated alike. Equally distant from both, there is a stone, whereon, they say, that our Sauiour sate, when the two Sisters intreated him to restore life to their Brother now foure dayes buryed: the Pilgrime that breakes off a piece thereof, stands excommunicated. A little aboue, there is a Fountayne of excellent water, deepe sunke into the Rocke, (by which we re∣freshed our selues with prouision brought with vs) called the Fountayne of the Apostles. Now [ 60] we ascended Mount Oliuet againe, by another way more inclining to the North. Vpon the right hand, and not far from the top, stood Bethfage, whose very foundations are now confounded; * 1.69 from whence Christ past vnto Ierusalem in triumph vpon an Asses Colt: euery Palme-sunday by the Pater-guardian superstitiously imitated.

Here looke we backe, and for a while suruey the high mountaine Quarantania, the low Plains of Iericho, Iordan, and the Dead Sea; which we could not goe to, by reason of our tardy arriuall, * 1.70 the Pilgrims returning on the selfe-same day that wee came vnto Ierusalem. Vndertaken but once a yeere in regard of the charges, then guarded by a Sheck of the Arabians, to resist the wild Arabs, who almost famished on those barren Mountaines (which they dare not husband for feare of surprisall) rob all that passe, if inferiour in strength: yet payed wee towards that conduct, two Dollars apiece to the Sanziack. Iordan runneth wel-nigh thirtie miles from Ierusalem; the * 1.71 way thither by Bethania; made long and troublesome by the steepe descents and labyrinthian windings; being to the iudgement of the eye, not the fourth of that distance. In this the Pil∣grims wash themselues, and bring from thence of the water, soueraigne (as they say) for sun∣dry [ 10] diseases. A great way on this side the Riuer, there stands a ruined Temple, vpon the win∣ding of a crooked channell, forsaken by the streame, (or then not filled but by inundations) where Christ (as they say) was baptized by Iohn. On the right hand stood Ierico, a Citie of fame (and * 1.72 in the time of the Christians an Episcopall Sea) beautifull in her Palmes, but chiefly proud of her Balsamum, a Plant then onely thought particular vnto Iurie, which grew most plentifully * 1.73 in this valley, and on the sides of the Westerne Mountaines which confine it, being about two cubits high, growing vpright, and yeerely pruned of her superfluous branches. In the Summer they lanced the rine with a stone, (not to be touched with steele) but not deeper then the in∣ward filme; for otherwise it forth with perished: from whence those fragrant and precious teares did distill, which now are onely brought vs from India; but they farre worse, and gene∣rally [ 20] sophisticated. The bole of this shrub is of least esteeme, the rine of greater, the seed ex∣ceeding that, but the liquor of greatest, knowne to be right in the curdling of Milke, and not stayning of garments. Here remayned two Orchards thereof in the dayes of Vespasian; in de∣fence of which, a battell was fought with the Iewes that endeauoured to destroy them. Of such repute with the Romanes, that Pompey first, and afterwards Titus did present it in their tri∣umphs as an especiall glorie: now vtterly lost through the barbarous waste and neglect of the Mahometans. Where Ierico stood, there standeth a few poore Cottages inhabited by the Ara∣bians. The valley about ten miles ouer, now producing but a spiny grasse; bordered on the East with the high Arabian Mountaines, on the West with those of Iurie; amongst which, Quaran∣tania the most eminent, in that wildernesse where Christ for fortie dayes was tempted by the [ 30] Deuill, so high, that few dare attempt to ascend to the top; from whence the Tempter shew∣ed him the Kingdomes of the earth; now crowned with a Chappell, which is yet vnruined. There is besides in the side an Hermitage, with a Cisterne to receiue raine-water; and another Grot, wherein the Hermites-were buried. Here Saint Ierome (as they say) fulfilled his foure yeeres penance.

But now returne wee to the summit of Mount Oliuet, which ouer-toppeth the neighbouring * 1.74 Mountaines, whose West side doth giue you a full suruey of each particular part of the Citie, bedect with Oliues, Almonds, and Fig-trees; heretofore with Palmes: pleasantly rich when husbanded, and now vpbraiding the barbarous with his neglected pregnancy. So famous in sa∣cred histories, and so often blest with the presence of Christ, and apparition of Angels. It is [ 40] not much lesse then a mile in heighth, stretching from North to South, and hauing three heads. On the middlemost (and that the highest) there standeth a little Chappell, of an eight square * 1.75 round, at euery corner a Pillar, mounted on three degrees, being all of white marble, and of an elegant structure: within it is not aboue twelue foot ouer, paued with the naturall rocke, which beareth the impression of a foot-step, they say, of our Sauiours; the last that he set vpon earth, * 1.76 when from thence he ascended into Heauen: A place in honour inferiour vnto none, frequen∣ted by Christians, possest by Mahometans, yet free to both their deuotions. Built it was by the mother of Constantine, and couered like the Sepulchre, with a sumptuous Temple (whose ruines yet looke aloft) together with a Monasterie. On the South-side of which, they shewed vs the Cell of Palagia; a famous, rich, and beautifull Curtizan of Antioch, who conuerted by [ 50] * 1.77 the Bishop of Dimiata, retired hither vnknowne, and here long liued in the habite and penurie of an Hermite, being not till dead, discouered for a woman. Descending, wee were shewed by the way, where our Sauiour taught them the Pater noster, where hee fore-told of the destru∣ction of Ierusalem, where the Apostles made the Creede, where hee wept ouer the Citie, (a paued square, now a Mahometan Oratorie) and such like traditions, not much worthy the mentioning. So crossing the valley by the Sepulchre of the blessed Virgin, we entred the Citie at the gate of Saint Steuen; returning the same way (as the day before) to the Monasterie.

Much of the day, and all the night following we spent in the Church of the Sepulchre: they then concluding the ceremonies and solemnities of that Festiuall. The next day wee prepared for our departure. Wee agreed with certaine Muccermen (so call they their Muliters) of Alep∣po [ 60] (who had brought a Portugall hither with his Ianizarie, and interpreter then newly come from India) to carrie vs vnto Tripoly, and to defray all charges (our diet excepted) for sixe and twentie Dollars a man, and for halfe so much as if we went but to Acre, greatly to the displea∣sure of Atala the Drogaman; that would not vndertake our conuey vnder a greater summe:

who found a time to effect his malice; yet his little paines wee rewarded with foure Dollars. Caphar and Asse hire about the Countrey had cost vs sixe Sultanies. We gaue money to the Frier∣seruants, and that not niggardly, considering our light purses and long iourney; whereof the Pater-guardian particularly enquired, lest their vow of pouertie they should couetously infringe (or rather perhaps defraud his desire) by retayning what was giuen, to their priuate vses: A crime with excommunication punished: yet that lesse feared, I suppose, then detection. They vse to marke the armes of Pilgrims with the names of Iesus, Maria, Ierusalem, Bethlehem, the Ierusalem Crosse, and sundry other Characters, done in such manner as hath beene declared be∣fore. The Pater-guardian would needs thrust vpon vs seuerall Certificates, which returned him as many Zecchines: he desired that we would make their pouertie knowne, with the dignitie [ 10] of those sanctified places: as a motiue to reliefe, and more frequent Pilgrimages.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Emaus.
• * 1.2

  Nicopolis.
• * 1.3

  Sepulchres.
• * 1.4

  Bershebas Bath.
• * 1.5

  Turpentine tree.
• * 1.6

  Simeons house.
• * 1.7

  Starre of the wise-men, Abacuck.
• * 1.8

  Elias.
• * 1.9

  Iacob.
• * 1.10

  Rachels Sepul∣chre.
• * 1.11

  Dead Sea.
• * 1.12

  Dauids Ci∣sternes.
• * 1.13

  Bethlehem.
• * 1.14

  Adonis.
• * 1.15

  Saint Maries.
• * 1.16

  Monasterie of Franciscans.
• * 1.17

  Innocents Se∣pulcher.
• * 1.18

  Paulas Sepul∣cher. Much diffe∣rence was be∣twixt the anci∣ent and later Monastaries and Monkes. Those liker our Vniuersities, free from vow, and fitted with arts and sancti∣tie, as Semina∣ries of the Church: The Nuns and Pil∣grimes also much differed from the later more degene∣rate. S. Ierome himselfe, this Noble Paula and her daugh∣ter Eustochium are witnesses hereof. Place of the Natiuitie.
• * 1.19

  Saint Ieromes natural Image Magi.
• * 1.20

  Iacobs fi••lde.
• * 1.21

  Angels appa∣rition to the Shepheards.
• * 1.22

  Our Ladies Well.
• * 1.23

  Bezec.
• * 1.24

  Bethsur.
• * 1.25

  Eunuchs Bap∣tisme.
• * 1.26

  Iohn Baptists Wildernesse.
• * 1.27

  Zacharies house
• * 1.28

  Elizabeth and Marie.
• * 1.29

  Rose valleys.
• * 1.30

  Monasterie of the holy Crosse.
• * 1.31

  Chappell vn∣lucky to Maho∣metans.
• * 1.32

  Last Supper.
• * 1.33

  Dauids Se∣pulchre. Englishmen murthered by Friers.
• * 1.34

  Palace of Caiphas.
• * 1.35

  Peters Deniall.
• * 1.36

  Graue-stone.
• * 1.37

  Gehinnon.
• * 1.38

  Aceldama.
• * 1.39

  Flesh deuou∣ring Earth.
• * 1.40

  Caue.
• * 1.41

  Valley of Ie∣hosaphat.
• * 1.42

  Cedron.
• * 1.43

  Esay sawne.
• * 1.44

  Siloe.
• * 1.45

  Zacharies Se∣pulcher.
• * 1.46

  Absolons Pillar.
• * 1.47

  Stone throw∣ing.
• * 1.48

  Gethsemani.
• * 1.49

  Sepulchers of the blessed Virgin and her Parents.
• * 1.50

  Turkish wo∣mens denoti∣on to the bles∣sed Virgin.
• * 1.51

  Bethesda.
• * 1.52

  Salomons Tem∣ple.
• * 1.53

  Mount Moria.
• * 1.54

  Golden Gate.
• * 1.55

  Turkish Pro∣phesie.
• * 1.56

  Ioachims house. Pilates Palace.
• * 1.57

  Iudgement place.
• * 1.58

  Sanctum San∣ctorum.
• * 1.59

  Dolorous way.
• * 1.60

  Simon of Cyrene
• * 1.61

  Veronica.
• * 1.62

  Zebedees houses
• * 1.63

  Saint Iames.
• * 1.64

  Sion Port. Peters penance.
• * 1.65

  Iudas.
• * 1.66

  Bethania.
• * 1.67

  Lazarus.
• * 1.68

  Ma••thas house
• * 1.69

  Bethfage.
• * 1.70

  Quarantena. Dead Sea.
• * 1.71

  Iordan.
• * 1.72

  Ierico.
• * 1.73

  Balme.
• * 1.74

  Mount Oliuet.
• * 1.75

  Chappell of the Ascension.
• * 1.76

  Foot-print.
• * 1.77

  Cell of Pelagia.