Page 1031
§. II.
Of the manner and situation of the Monasteries, and of their holy Rites, Times, Places, and Things: And first of this of Saint MICHAEL.
11. FIrst, this Monasterie is situate vpon the cragge of a Mountaine, which is very wild, seated at the foot of another huge Mountaine, vpon the which no man can ascend. The stone of these Rockes is of the colour and graine of the stone, wherewith the wall of the Cities of Portugall are built, and the stones are verie [ 10] great. All the ground except these stones is couered with many great Woods, and the greatest part are wild Oliue Trees, and great store of Herbs grow among them, and the most part is Ba∣sill. The Trees which were not Oliues, were not knowne of vs, and all of them were without fruit. In certaine narrow Vallies, which belong to this Monasterie, were Groues of Orange∣trees, Limons, Cedars, Vines, and Figs of all sorts, as well of those which are found in Portu∣gall, as those of India, and Peaches: there were also Cabbages, Corianders, Cressis, Worme∣wood, * 1.1 Mirtles, and many other kindes of Herbes fragrant and medicinall: and all was ill husbanded, because they are people of no industrie; and the Earth bringeth forth the things aforesaid, as it bringeth forth wild things, and would bring forth much better, all they should plant or sow. The House of the Monasterie seemeth, indeed, to bee a Church-building beeing [ 20] made like vnto ours: it hath about it a circuit like to a Cloyster, and the couering aboue is fastned to the couering of the Church. It hath three gates, as ours haue, to wit, one chiefe gate in the fore-front, and one on each side in the midst. The couering of the Church, and of the circuit is made of wild Reed, which lasteth the life of a man.
The body of the Church is made with Iles, very well wrought, and the Arches are very well stored, it seemeth all to be made like a Vault: It hath a little Quire behind the great Altar, with a Crosse afore it, whereupon hang Curtaines which goe from one side to another; and likewise, * 1.2 there are other Curtaines before the Gates, passing from one Wall to another, and they are of [ 30] Silke, and the entrie by these Curtaines is at three places, and are fastned against the Walls: and at these three entrances or gates, are little Bels fastned to the Curtaines, about the bignesse of Saint Anthonies Bels; and a man cannot enter in at the gates, but these Bels will ring. There is but one Altar belonging to the whole Church, which standeth in the great Chappell. Aboue the Altar is a Cloath of Gold borne vp with foure pillars, and the Altar toucheth all these foure Pillars, and the said Cloath of Gold is hollow like a Vault, it hath his Super-Altare, or conse∣crated stone, which they call Tabuto, and vpon this stone standeth a very great Bason of Cop∣per, and it is flat in the bottome, and is low brimmed, which reacheth vnto all the foure Pillars of the Altar, because the Pillars are set in a square, and in the said Bason is set another lesser Ba∣son, and on euery side of this cloth of Gold, that is to say, behind and on both sides a Curtaine [ 40] hangeth downe which couereth the whole Altar downe to the ground, sauing that it is open before. * 1.3
Their Bels are of stone, that is to say, long and thin stones, hanged vp with Cords, and they beat them on the inside with a piece of wood, and they make a very strange sound, like to the sound of broken Bels when they are heard afarre off. And likewise on Festiuall dayes, they take * 1.4 Basons, and strike them with certaine small stickes, which make them sound very loud. They haue likewise Bels of Iron, which are not fully round, but haue two sides like vnto the Iacket of a Muletier, whereof the one part couereth him before, and the other behind; they haue a clap∣per which beateth the same first on the one side, and then on the other, and it maketh a sound like vnto a man that diggeth Vines. They haue also other Bels ill-fauouredly made, which they [ 50] carrie in their hands when they go on Procession, and ring them altogether vpon Festiuall dayes, * 1.5 on other dayes they vse their Bels of stone, and of Iron; they ring to Mattens two houres be∣fore day, and they say them by heart without light: onely there hangs a Lampe before the Al∣tar, wherein they burne Butter, for they haue no Oyle.
They sing and say with a loud and harsh voice, as of one that cryeth, without any art of sing∣ing: they say no Verses, but their speech is as it were in Prose, and yet they are Psalmes, and * 1.6 on their Holidayes, besides their Psalmes, they say Prose, and according to the Feasts so is their Prose, and alwayes they stand on their feet in the Church. They say not aboue one Lesson at their Mattens, with a harsh, disordered and vntuneable voice, and like vnto that wherein wee pronounce the words of the Iewes, in representing the Passion of our Sauiour Christ. And al∣though [ 60] their voice be so harsh, yet they speake it running, as fast as the tongue of a man can * 1.7 wagge, and a Clerke or a Frier saith the same; and this Lesson is read before the principall gate.
Which being ended on Saturday and Sundayes, they goe on Procession with foure or fiue cros∣ses, being carryed vpon certaine staues not very high; and they carrie the same in their left hands, because in their right hand they carrie a Censer, and alwayes there are so many Censers