Purchas his pilgrimes. part 2 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part.

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Title
Purchas his pilgrimes. part 2 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part.
Author
Purchas, Samuel, 1577?-1626.
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London :: Printed by William Stansby for Henrie Fetherstone, and are to be sold at his shop in Pauls Church-yard at the signe of the Rose,
1625.
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Voyages and travels -- Early works to 1800.
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http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A71307.0001.001
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"Purchas his pilgrimes. part 2 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A71307.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 18, 2025.

Pages

§. IIII.

Arriuall at Malta, and obseruations there.

NOw out of sight of Candie, the Winds both slacke and contrary, we were forced to [ 30] beare Northward of our course, vntill we came within view of Zant, where our Master purposed to put in (since we could not shorten our way) but anon we dis∣couered fiue sailes making towards vs; and imagining them to be men of warre, made all things readie for defence. But to our better comfort, they prooued all English, and bound for * 1.1 England; with whom we consorted to furnish the ship with fresh water, and other prouisions: they hauing supplied our necessities.

So on the second of Tune being Sunday, we entred the Hauen that lies on the East side of the Citie of Valetta, which we saluted with eighteene peeces of Ordnance, but we were not suffe∣red [ 40] to come into the Citie (though euery ship had a neat Patent to shew, that those places from whence they came were free from the infection) nor suffered to depart, when the wind blew faire; which was within a day or two after. For the Gallies of the Religion were then setting forth, to make some attempt vpon Barbarie. The reason thereof, left being taken by the Pyrats, or touching vpon occasion at Tripoli, Tunis, or Argire, their designes might be by compulion, or voluntarily reuealed: nor would they suffer any Frigat of their owne, for feare of surprisall, to goe out of the Hauen, vntill many dayes after that the Gallies were departed. But because the English were so strong (a great ship of Holland putting also in to seeke company) and that they incented to make no more Ports: On the sixt of Iune, they were licenced to set saile, the Ma∣sters hauing the night before, in their seuerall long-boats, attended their returne of the great Ma∣ster [ 50] (who had beene abroad in his Gallie to view a Fort that then was in building) and wel∣comed him home with one and twenty peeces of Ordnance.

But no intreaty could get me abroad, choosing rather to vndergoe all hazards and hardnesse whatsoeuer, then so long a Voyage by sea, to my nature so irkesome. And so was I left alone on a naked promontory right against the Citie, remote from the concourse of people, without pro∣uision, and not knowing how to dispose of my selfe. At length a little boat made towards me, rowed by an officer appointed to attend on strangers that had not pratticke, left others by com∣ming into their company, should receiue the infection; who carried me to the hollow hanging of a rocke, where I was for that night to take vp my lodging; and the day following to be con∣ueied [ 60] by him vnto the Lazaretta, there to remaine for thirty or forty dayes before I could be admitted into the Citie. But behold, an accident, which I rather thought at the first to haue been * 1.2 a vision, then (as I found it) reall. My guardian being departed to fetch me some victuals, laid along, and musing on my present condition, a Phalucco arriueth at the place. Out of which

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there stept two olde women; the one made mee doubt whether shee were so or no, shee drew her face into so many formes, and with such anticke gestures stared vpon me. These two did spread a Turkie Carpet on the rocke, and on that a table-cloth, which they furnished with va∣rietie * 1.3 of the choycest viands. Anon, another arriued, which set a Gallant ashoare with his two Amarosas, attired like Nymphs, with Lutes in their hands, full of disport and sorcery. For lit∣tle would they suffer him to eate, but what he receiued with his mouth from their fingers. Sometimes the one would play on the Lute, whilst the other sang, and laid his head in her lap; their false eyes looking vpon him, as their hearts were troubled with passions. The attending Hags had no small part in the Comedie, administring matter of myrth with their ridiculous moppings. Who indeed (as I after heard) were their mothers borne in Greece, and by them [ 10] brought hither to trade amongst the vnmarried fraternitie. At length, the French Captaine (for such he was, and of much regard) came and intreated me to take a part of their banquet; which my stomacke perswaded me to accept of. He willed them to make much of the Forestier: but they were not to be taught entertainment, and grew so familiar, as was to neither of our likings. But both he and they, in pittie of my hard lodging, did offer to bring me into the Citie by night (an offence, that if knowne, is punished by death) and backe againe in the morning. Whilest they were vrging me thereunto, my guardian returned; with him a Maltese, whose father was an English man, he made acquainted there with, did by all meanes dehort them. At length (the * 1.4 Captaine hauing promised to labour by admittance into the Citie) they departed. When a good way from shoare, the Curtizans stript themselues, and leapt into the Sea, where they vio∣lated [ 20] all the prescriptions of modestie. But the Captain the next morning was not vnmindfull of his promise, soliciting the Great Master in my behalfe, as he sate in Counsell; who with the assent of the great Crosses, granted me Pratticke. So I came into the Citie, and was kindly en∣tertained in the house of the foresaid Maltese, where for three weekes space, with much con∣tentment I remained.

Malta doth lie in the Lybian Sea, right betweene Tripolis of Barbarie and the South-east an∣gle * 1.5 of Sicilia: distant an hundred fourescore and ten miles from the one, and threescore from the other; containing also threescore miles in circuit, called formerly Melita, of the abundance of ho∣ney. A Countrey altogether Champion, being no other then a rock couered ouer with earth, but two feet deepe where the deepest; hauing few trees, but such as beare fruit; whereof of all [ 30] sorts plentifully furnished, so that their wood they haue from Sicilia, yet there is a kind of great Thistle, which together with Cow-dung serues the Countrey people for fuell, who need not much in a Clime so exceeding hot; hotter by much then any other which is seated in the same parallell, yet sometimes temperated by the comfortable winds, to which it lies open. Ri∣uers here are none, but sundry fountaines. The soile produceth no graine but Barley, bread made of it, and Oliues, is the Villagers ordinary diet: and with the straw they sustaine their Cattell. Commin-seed, Annis-seed, and honey, they haue here in abundance, whereof they make Mer∣chandize, and an indifferent quantity of Cotten-wooll; but that the best of all other. The in∣habitants die more with age then diseases, and heretofore were reputed fortunate for their ex∣cellencie in Arts and curious Weauings. They were at first a Colonie of the Phoenicians, who ex∣ercising [ 40] Merchandize as farre as the great Ocean, betooke themselues to this Iland; and by the commoditie of the Hauen, attained too much riches and honour (who yet retaine some print of the Punicke Language, yet so that they now differ not much from the Moresco) and built in the middest thereof the Citie of Melita (now called old Malta) giuing or taking a name from the Iland. Now whether it came into the hands of Spaine with the Kingdome of Sicilia, or won from the Moores by their swords, (probable both by their Language, and that it belon∣geth to Africa) I am ignorant: but by Charles the fifth it was giuen to the Knights of the Rhodes.

This order of Knight-hood receiued their denomination from Iohn the charitable Patriarch of Alexandria, though vowed to Saint Iohn Baptist as their Patron. Their first seat was the [ 50] * 1.6 Hospitall of Saint Iohn in Ierusalem (whereupon they were called Knight-hospitallers) built by one Gerrard, at such time as the Holy land became famous by the successefull expeditions of the Christians; who drew diuers worthy persons into that societie, approued by Pope Galasius the second. They by the allowance of Honorius the second, wore garments of blacke, signed with a white crosse. Raymond, the first Master of the Order, did amplifie their Canons; insti∣ling himselfe, The poore seruant of Christ, and Guardian of the Hospitall in Ierusalem. In euery Countrey throughout Christendome they had Hospitals, and Reuenues assigned them, with contributions procured by Pope Innocent the second. They were tied by their vowes to enter∣taine all Pilgrims with singular humanitie; to safeguard their passages from theeues and incur∣sions, and valiantly to sacrifice their liues in defence of that Countrey. But the Christians being [ 60] driuen out of Syria, the Knights had the Rhodes assigned them by the Greeke Emperour, (others say, by Clement the fifth) which they won from the Turke, and lost againe as aforesaid; retiring from thence vnto Malta. There are of them here seuen Alberges or Seminaries, one of France in generall, one of Auerne, one of Prouince, one of Castile, one of Aragon, one of Italie, one of

Page 917

Almany: and an eight there was of England, vntill by Henry the Eighth di••••olued, with what Iustice, I know not. Yet is there one that supplyeth the place in the Election of the Great Ma∣ster. Of euery one there is a Grand Prior, who liues in great reputation in his Countrey, and orders the affaires of their Order.

Saint Iohns without Smith-field, being in times past the Mansion of the Grand Prio of Eng∣land, an Irish-man liuing in Naples, and reciuing a large Pension from the King of Spaine; now beareth that Title. Those that come for the Order are to bring a testimonie of their Gentry for * 1.7 ixe Descents, which is to be examined, and approued by the Knights of their Nation, he being first to remaine here a yeare for a probation. Nor are women exempted from that dignitie, ad∣mitted by a Statute made in the Mastership of Hugo Ruelus, perhaps, for that one Agni, a no∣ble [ 10] * 1.8 Ladie was the Author, as they affirme, of their Order; but that there be any now of i, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 more then I could be informed. The Ceremonies vsed in Knighting, are these. First, carrying in his hand a Taper of white Waxe, hee kneeleth before the Altar, clothed in a long ••••ose ••••••∣ment, and desireth the Order of the Ordinarie. Then, in the Name of the Father, the Sonne▪ * 1.9 and the Holy Ghost, he receiueth a Sword, therewith to defend the Catholike Church, to re∣pulse and vanquish the Enemie, to relieue the oppressed, if need should be, to expose himslfe vnto death for the Faith, and all by the power of the Crosse, which by the Crosse-〈…〉〈…〉 is 〈…〉〈…〉gu∣red. Then is he girt with a Belt, and thrice strooke on the shoulders with his Swo•••• to pt him in mind that for the honour of Christ he is chearefully to suffer whatsoeuer is g〈…〉〈…〉, who taking it of him, thrice flourisheth it aloft as a prouokement to the Aduersary, and so sheates [ 20] it againe, hauing wiped it first on his arme, to testifie that thence-forth hee will liue vnde〈…〉〈…〉d∣ly. Then hee that giues him Knight-hood laying his hand on his shoulder, doth exhort him to be vigilant in the Faith, and to aspire vnto true honour by couragious and laudable actions, 〈◊〉〈◊〉▪ Which done, two Knights doe put on his Spurres, guilt; to signifie that he should spurne Gold 〈◊〉〈◊〉▪ durt, not to doe what were ignoble for reward. And so goes he to Masse with the Taper in his hand, the workes of Pietie, Hospitalitie, and redemption of Captiues, being commended vnto him, told also of what he was to performe in regard of his Order. Being as〈…〉〈…〉d if he bee a free man, if not ioyned in Matrimonie, if vnuowed to another Order, or not of any profession, and if he were resolued to liue amongst them, to reuenge their iniuries, and quit the 〈…〉〈…〉oritie of Secular Magistracie. Hauing answered thereunto, vpon the receit of the 〈◊〉〈◊〉, he vowes [ 30] in this Order, I vow to the Almightie God, to the Uirgin Mary his immaculate M••••••er, and to Saint * 1.10 Iohn Baptist, perpetually, by the helpe of God to bee truly obedient to all my Superiours, appointed by God and this Order, to liue without any thing of my 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and 〈…〉〈…〉all to liue chastly. * 1.11 Whereupon he is made a partaker of their Priuiledges and Indulgences, granted vnto them by the Se of Rome. Besides, other Prayers, they are commanded to say a hundred and fiftie Pater 〈◊〉〈◊〉 daily, for such as haue beene slaine in their Warres. They weare Ribands about their neckes with Brou∣ches of the Crosse, and Clokes of blacke with large white Crosses set thereinto on the shoulder, of fine Linnen, but in time of Warre, they weare Crimson Mandilions, behind and before o crossed, ouer their Armour.

They come hither exceeding young, that they may the sooner attayne to a commend〈…〉〈…〉 at [ 40] home, (whereof many be of great value) not got by fauour but signioritie, and are to liue here for the space of fiue yeares (but not necessarily together) and to goe on foure Expeditions. If one of them be conuicted of a capitall crime, hee is first publi••••ly disgraded in the Church of Saint Iohn where he receiued his Knight-hood, then strangled, and throwne after into the Sea * 1.12 in the night time. Euery Nation doe feed by themselues in their seuerall Alberges, and sit at the Table like Fryers, but such as vpon suite doe get leaue to eat apart, haue 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Crownes al∣lowed them by the Religion yearely, as all haue fiue and twentie a piece for apparell.

There are here resident about fiue hundred, not to depart without leaue, and as many more dispersed through Christendome, who hither repaire vpon euery summons, or notice of inuasi∣on. * 1.13 The Religion is their generall Heire wheresoeuer they dye, onely each Knight may dispose of a fifth part of his substance. There be sixteene of them Counsellors of State, and of princi∣pall [ 50] authoritie, called Great Crosses, who weare Tippets, and Coates also vnder their Cloake, that be signed therewith. Of these are the Martiall, the Master of the Hospitall, the Admirall; the Chancelor, &c. When one doth dye another is elected by the Great Master and his Knights, who giue their voyces (if I forget not) by Bullets, as doe the Uenetians, whereby both enulé and faction is auoyded. Now, if the Great Master fall sicke, they will suffer no Vessell to goe * 1.14 out of the Hauen, vntill hee bee either recouered, or dead, and another elected, lest the Pope should intrude into the Election, which they challenge to be theirs, and is in this manner per∣formed.

The seuerall Nations elect two Knights a piece of their owne, and two are elected for the [ 60] English, from amongst themselues these sixteene choose eight, and those eight doe nominate a Knight, a Priest, and a Fryer-seruant (who also weares Armes) and they three choose the Great Master, out of the sixteen Great Crosses. This man is a Pickard borne, about the age of sixtie, and hath gouerned eight yeare. His Name and Title, The Illustrious and most Reuerent Prince my Lord

Page 918

Fryer▪ Aloius of Wignian-court, Great Master of the Hospitall of Sairt Iohns of Ierusalem, Prince of Malta, and Goza. For albeit a Fryer, (as the rest of the Knights) yet is he an absolute Soueraigne, and is brauely attended on by a number of gallant yong Gentlemen. The Clergie doe weare the Cognizance of the Order, who are subiect to like Lawes except in military matters.

There are sixtie Villages in the Iland, vnder the command of ten Captaines, and foure Cities. Old Malta is seated (as hath beene said before) in the midst of the Iland, vpon a hill, and for∣med like a Scutchion: held of no great importance, yet kept by a Garrison. In it there is a Grot, * 1.15 where they say Saint Paul lay when he suffered shipwracke; of great deuotion amongst them. The refined stone thereof they cast into little Medals, with the Effigies of Saint Paul on the one side, and a Viper on the other, Agnus Dei, and the like: of which they vent store to the For∣reiner. [ 10] They say, that being drunke in wine it doth cure the venome of Serpents, and withall, * 1.16 though there be many Serpents in the Iland, that they haue not the power of hurting although handled, and angred; bereft of their venome euer since the being here of the Apostle. The other three Cities (if they may all be so termed) are about eight miles distant, and not much without a Musket shot each of other, neere the East-end, and on the North-side of the Iland, where there is a double Hauen diuided by a tongue of rocke, which extendeth no further then the con∣ueniently large entrance. The East Hauen resembleth the horne of a Stag, the first branch (as the Palme) affoording an excellent harbour for the greatest shippes, and the second for Gallies; the rest are shallow. Close to the vppermost toppe there is a Fountayne of fresh water, which pletifully furnisheth all V essels that doe enter. On the tip of the foresaid tongue stood the [ 20] strong Castle of Saint Hermes, the first that the Turke besieged, which after many furious as∣saults, twentie thousand Canon shot (whose horrible roarings were heard to Messia) and the * 1.17 losse of ten thousand liues, they tooke in the yeare 1565. in the moneth of Iune, but to the greater glory of the vanquished, that losse rather inraging then dis-heartning the remaynder.

Now vpon the point of the Promontory which lyes betweene these two branches of that Hauen, where the Ships and Gallies haue their stations, on a steepe rocke stands the Castle of Saint Angel, whose strength appeared in frustrating those violent batteries (being next besie∣ged by the Turke) whereof it yet beareth the skarres. At the foot of the Rocke are certaine Canons planted, that front the mouth of the Hauen. This Castle is onely diuided by a Trench cut through the Rocke, from the Burgo, a little Citie which possesseth the rest of that Promon∣tory, [ 30] being all a Rock, hewen hollow within, for their better defence; disioyned by a great deep Ditch from the Land. South of this, and on the next Promontory, stands another Towne, which is called, La Isula, on the p〈…〉〈…〉 thereof a platforme, and at the other end the strong Fort of Saint Mich••••l, yet inferiour in strength to that of Saint Angel. Here remember we the pit∣tie of a Ma〈…〉〈…〉an, descended, no doubt of Christian Parentage, and fauouring our Religion, * 1.18 who in the time of the strictest siege, and smallest comfort to the besieged, leapt into the Sea, and maugre all the shot that was made at him, swamme to this Castle: where first requiring and receiuing. Baptisme, hee made knowne vnto them the secrets of the Enemie, aduised how to frustrate their purposes, and brauely thrust himselfe forward in euery extremitie. But the Knights of the Order assisting one another by their proper valour, so nobly behaued them∣selues, [ 40] that the Turke began to despaire of successe, and vpon the rumoured approach of the Christian su••••ours (which in the best construction by the ouer-circumspect Vice-Roy of Sicilia had beene dangerously protracted) ibarqued themselues, and departed. But all, sauing Burgo and Saint Agel, reduced into powder, and the returne of the Turke distrusted, it was pro∣pounded amongst the Knights, to abandon the Iland, rather then vainly to repaire, and endeuour to defend those lamentable ruines, the Aduersaries vnequall power, and backward ayde of the Christian Princes considered. But it too much concerned the state of Christendome, (especially of the Countries confining) it being as it were both the Key and Bulwarke thereof, insomuch that the Pope, the Florentine, and the rest of the Princes of Italy, encouraged them to stay, assi∣sting them with money, and all necessary prouision; but especially the King of Spaine, who ouer [ 50] and aboue did send them three thousand Pioners, leuyed in the Kingdome of Naples and Sicilia, to repaire their old Fortresses, and begin a new Citie vpon that tongue of Land which diuideth the two Hauens, now almost absolutely finished.

This is called the Citie of Valetta, in the honour of Iohn de Valetta, who then was Great * 1.19 Master. Not great, but faire, exactly contriued, and strong aboue all others, mounted aloft, and no where assailable by Land, but at the South end. The walls of the rest doe ioyne to the vp∣right Rocke, as if of one piece, and beaten vpon by the Sea. That towards the Land, is but a narrow Isthmos, where the Rocke doth naturally rise, the Ditch without, hewen downe ex∣ceeding broad, and of an incredible profunditie, strongly flankt, and not wanting what fortifi∣cation can doe. This way openeth the onely gate of the Citie, (the other two, whereof one [ 60] leadeth to Saint Hermes, and the other to the Hauen, being but small Posternes) and hard with∣in * 1.20 are two great Bul warks, planted on the top with Ordnance. At the other end (but with∣out the wall) stands the Castle of Saint Hermes, now stronger then euer, whereof (as of that Saint Angel) no French man can be Gouernour. Almost euery where there are platformes on

Page 919

the walls, well stored with Ordnance. The walls on the inside not aboue sixe foot high, vnim∣battald, and sheluing on the outside, the buildings throughout a good distance off both to leaue roome for the Souldiers, and to secure them from batterie. Neere the South end, and on the West side, there is a great pit hewne into the rocke, out of which a Port cut vnder the wall into the West Hauen, intended (for yet vnfinished) to haue beene made an Arsenall for their Gallies, (that harbour being too shallow for ships) a worke of great difficulty. The market place is spa∣cious, out of which the streets doe point on the round. The buildings for the most part vni∣forme, all of free stone, two stories high, and flat at the top; the vpper roomes of most hauing out tarrasses. The Great Masters Palace is a Princely structure, hauing a Tower which ouer∣looketh * 1.21 the whole Iland. The chamber where they sit in Counsell, is curiously painted with [ 10] their fights by Sea and by Land, both forraine and defensiue. The seuen Alberges of the * 1.22 Knights, be of no meane building; amongst whom the Citie is quartered. Magnificent is the Church of S, Paul, and that of Saint Iohns: the one the seat of a Bishop, and the other of a Prior. And Saint Iohns Hospitall doth merite regard, not onely for the building, but for the entertain∣ment * 1.23 there giuen. For all that fall sicke are admitted thereunto, the Knights themselues there lodge when hurt or diseased, where they haue Physicke for the bodie, and for the soule also (such as they giue.) The attendants many, the beds ouer-spread with faire Canopies; euery fortnight hauing change of Linnen. Serued by the Iunior Knights in siluer, and euery Friday by the Great Master, accompanied with the great Crosses. A seruice obliged vnto from their first insti∣tution; and thereupon called Knight-hospitallers. The Iesuits haue of late crept into the Ci∣tie, [ 20] who now haue a Colledge a building. Heere bee also three Nunneries; the one for Virgins, another for penitent Whores, (of impenitent here are store) and the third for their bastards.

The barrennesse of this Ile is supplied with the fertilitie of Sicilia, from whence they haue their prouision. The Citie is victualed for three yeeres, kept vnder the ground, and supplied with new as they spend of the old. They haue some fresh water Fountaines, and the raine that fal∣leth, they reserue in Cisternes. Besides the Knights and their dependants, the Citizens and I∣land〈…〉〈…〉▪ be within the muster of their forces; in which there are not of liuing soules aboue twen∣tie thousand. They keepe a Court of guard nightly, and almost euery minute of the night, the watch of one Fort giues two or three tolls with a bell, which is answered by the other in or∣der. [ 30] The Religion hath onely fiue Gallies, and stinted they are, as I haue heard, to that number, * 1.24 (if more, they belong vnto priuate men) and but one ship. The custome is, or hath beene, ha∣uing hung out a flagge, to lend money to all commer that would dice it, if they win, to repay it with aduantage; if lose, to serue vntill their entertainment amounted to that summe. Now the * 1.25 expeditions that they make, are little better then for bootie; sometimes landing in the night time on the maine of Africa, and surprising some village, or scouring along the coasts, take cer∣taine small Barks, which disburdened of their lading and people, they suffer to hull with the weather. For they made good profit of their slaues, either imploying them in their drudgeries, (they hauing at this instant aboue fifteene hundred of them) or by putting them to ransome. For euer and anon you shall haue a little boat with a flag of treaty, come hither from Tripoli, Tunis, [ 40] or Algeirs, to agree for the redemption of captiues, as doe the Malteses to those places who are serued with the same measure. During my abode here, there arriued a Barke, brought in by eight English men, who had for a long time serued the Turkish Pirats of Tunis, they bound for Algeirs, tooke weapons in hand, and droue the distrustlesse Turkes (being twice as many) into the sterne, kept there by two, whilst the other dressed the sailes for Malta. Amongst them there was one, who saying he would neuer be slaue to a Christian, stript himselfe secretly, propping vp his gowne, and laying his Turbant vpon it, as if still there, and dropt it into the Sea. But the deceiuer was deceiued by the high land which seemed neerer then it was, and so wearied with swimming, sunke in their sights. The Inquisition would haue seized both on their persons and purchase, because they had serued the Infidell: but they were protected by the Great Master (be∣ing [ 50] desirous to serue him) who will not suffer their cruell authoritie to enter into the new City, so that they are faine to reside in Burgo.

The Matelses are little lesse Tawnie then the Moores, especially those of the Countrey, who * 1.26 goe halfe clad, are indeed a miserable people; but the Citizens are altogether Frenchified; the Great Master, and maior part of the Knights being French men. The women weare long blacke stoles, wherewith they couer their faces (for it is a great reproach to be seene otherwise) who conuerse not with men, and are guarded according to the manner of Italy. But the iealous are bet∣ter secured, by the number of allowed Curtizans (for the most part Grecians) who sit playing in their doores on instruments; and with the arte of their eyes inueagled these continent by vow, but contrary in practise, as if chastitie were onely violated by marriage. They here stirre early and late, in regard of the immoderate heat, and sleepe at noone day. Their markets they [ 60] keepe on Sundayes.

Now were the Gallies returned with indifferent successe, and yet my stay was proroged by the approaching festiuall of their Patron; for vntill that was past, no boat would stirre out of

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the Harbour. The Palace, Temples, Alberges, and other principall houses, were stucke round on * 1.27 the outside with lampes, the euening before: and amongst other solemnities, they honoured the day with the discharge of all their Artilery. The Forts put forth their Banners, and euery Al∣berge the Ensigne of his Nation, at night hauing Bone-fires before them; fiue great ones being made in the Court of the Palace; whereof, the first was kindled by the Great Master, the second by the Bishop, the third by the Prior, the fourth and fifth by the Marshall and Admi∣rall. On the foure and twentieth of Iune, I departed from Malta in a Phalucco of Naples, rowed by fiue, and not twice so big as a Wherry, yet will for a space keepe way with a Gally. They vse to set foorth in such boats as these, two houres before Sun-set, and if they discouer a suspected saile betweene that and night (for the Turkes continually lie [ 10] there in waite) doe returne againe: if not, they proceed; and by the next morning (as now did we) reach the Coast of Sicilia.

Notes

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