decaied to this day, is the Templum omnium Deorum, but now, omnium sanctorum, builded in a rotundo, and open at the top, with a large round, like to the quire of the holy graue, And a pret∣ty way from this, are the remainants of that ancient Amphitheatre beautified with great Co∣lumnes, of a wonderfull bignesse and height; the reason why it was first deuised, the ghosts of the slaughtered Sabines may testifie. To be briefe, I saw the decaied house of worthy Cicero, the high Capitoll, the Pallace of cruell Nero, the Statues of Marcus Aurelius, Alexander, and his horse Bucephalus. The greene hill like vnto Mount Cauallo, that was made of the Pottars shards at one time, which brought the tributarie Gold to this imperiall seat, the seuen hils whereon she stands, and their seuen Pyramides, the Castell Saint Angelo, which Adrian first founded, and their doubtfull transported Reliques from Ierusalem, with many other things I diligently remark∣ed, [ 10] some whereof were friuolous, some ambiguous, and some famous. Besides all these I saw one most sight-worthy-spectacle, which was the Library of the aneient Romans, being licenciated to enter with two Gentlemen, Sir William Kerre, and Ia••es Anghtermuty my Countrey-men, where when I was come, I beheld a word of old Bookes, the first whereof, was an infinite num∣ber of Greeke Bibles subscribed with the hands of these holy Fathers, who (as they say) transla∣ted them out of the Hebrew tongue.
I saw also the Academies of Aristotle, wherein he treateth of the Soule, health, life, nature, and qualities of men, with the Medicaments of Galen, for the diseases and infirmities of man: The fa∣miliar Epistles of Cicero, the Ac••••idos of Virgil, the Saphicke Verses of that Lesbian Sapho, the Workes of Ouid, Plinie, ••lutarke, Titus Liuins, H••ratins, Strabo, Plato, Homer, Terentius, Cato, Hippo∣crates, [ 20] Iosephus, Pythagoras, Diodorus Siculns, Eusebius, Saint Augustine, Saint Ambrose, Saint Cy∣prian, Saint Gregory, and likewise the workes of other excellent Philosophers, Diuines, and Poets: all wrote with their owne hands, and sealed with their names, and manuell subscriptions. I saw also the forme of the first ancient Writing, which was vpon leaues of trees, cakes of lead, with their fingers on ashes, barkes of trees, with strange figures, and vnknowne Letters, that was brought from Egypt: for the Aegyptians first deuised the vse thereof, and the sight of infinitie Ob∣ligatorie Writings, of Emperours, Kings, and Princes, which I omit to relate, referring the same to the registred, by the next beholder.
Bidding adew to my Company, and this Library, I longed to view the gorgeous Mosaicall worke of Saint Peters Church: The matter was no sooner conceiued, but I went to the doore, yet [ 30] afraid to enter, because I was not accustomed, with the carriage, and ceremonies of such a San∣ctum Sanctorum. But at the last, abandoning all scrupulositie, I came in boldly, and on my right hand, as I entred within the doore, I espied the portraied image of Saint Peter, erected of pure Brasse, and sitting on a brasen Chaire. The fashion of the people is this, entring the Church, they goe strait to this Idoll, and saluting with many crosses his senslesse body, kisse his feete; and euery one of his seuerall toes: next, they lay their heads vnder the soale of his right foot, and arising, rub their Beads on his hard costed belly: thus adoring that breathlesse masse of mettall, more then though it were a liuing creature.
The period of Time, after eight and twenty dayes abode, wishing my departure, I hardly es∣caped from the hunting of these bloud-sucking Inquisitors, of whom the most part were mine [ 40] owne Countrimen; for I may iustly affirme it, man hath no worser Enemie then his owne sup∣posed friend. And the Italian saieth in his Prouerbe; God keepe me from the hurt of my friends, for I know well how to keepe me from mine Enemies. From thence bound Eastward, I visited Naples, the commendation of which, I onely reuolue in this Verse:
Inclyta Parthenope gignit Comites{que} Duces{que}.
Among many other remarkeable things, neare to this Citie (as Lacus Auernus, Sibillaes Caue, Puteoli; the Sulphurean Mountaine, Capua and Cuma, where banished Aeneas from Troy, and Carthage arriued) I saw the Monument of Virgils buriall.
In the meane while, hauing alwaies a regard, of my hasty dispatching from Christendome, I returned, addressing my selfe to Venice for transportation. But by your leaue, let me lay down be∣fore [ 50] your eyes, some notable illusions of Madonna di Loretta.
Before I came neere to Loretta, by ten miles, I ouertooke a Caroch, wherein were two Geu∣tlemen of Rome, and their tw•• Concubines: Who, when they espied me, saluted me kindely, en∣quiring of what Nation I was? whither I was bound? and what pleasure I had to trauell alone? After I had to these demands giuen satisfaction, they intreated me to come vp to the Caroach, but I thankfully refused, and would not, replying the way was faire, the weather seasonable, and my body vnwearied. At lsst they perceiuing my absolute refusall, presently dismounted on the ground, to recreate themselues in my company: and incontinently, the two yong vnmarried Dames, came forth elso, and would by no perswasion of me, nor their familiars, mount againe; saying, They were all Pilgrimes, and bound to Loreta (for deuotions sake) in pilgrimage, and for the [ 60] penance enioyned to them by their Father Confessour. Truely, so farre as I could iudge, their penance was small, being carried with horses, and the appearance of deuotion much lesse: for lodging at Riginati, after supper, each youth led captiue his dearest Darling to an vnsanctified bed, and left me to my accustomed repose.