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§. III. Of the qualitie of the Land at the Indies in generall. Properties of Peru, and of new Spaine, and other parts: Of Vulcanes and Earthquakes.
WE may know the qualitie of the Land at the Indies, for the greatest part (seeing it is the last of the three Elements,* 1.1 whereof we haue propounded to treate in this Booke) by the discourse we haue made in the former Booke of the burning Zone, seeing that [ 10] the greatest part of the Indies doth lye vnder it. But to make it knowne the more particularly, I haue obserued three kindes of Lands, as I haue passed through those Regions: whereof there is one very low, another very high, and the third which holds the middle of these two extreames. The lower is that which lyeth by the Sea coasts, whereof there is in all parts of the Indies, and it is commonly very hot and moist, so as it is not so healthfull; and at this day we see it lesse peopled, although in former times it hath beene greatly inhabited with Indians, as it appeareth by the histories of new Spaine and Peru, and where they kept and liued, for that the soile was naturall vnto them being bred there. They liued of fishing at Sea, and of seeds, drawing brooks from the Riuers, which they vsed for want of raine, for that it raines little there, and in some places not at all. This low Countrie hath many places vnhabitable, as well by [ 20] reason of the Sands which are dangerous (for there are whole Mountaines of these Sands) as also for the Marishes which grow by reason of the waters that fall from the Mountaines, which fin∣ding no issue in these flat and low Lands, drowne them, and make them vnprofitable.
And in truth the greatest part of all the Indian Sea coast is of this sort, chiefly vpon the South Sea: the habitation of which coasts is at this present so wasted and contemned,* 1.2 that of thirty parts of the people that inhabited it, there wants twenty nine; and it is likely the rest of the Indians will in short time decay. Many, according to the varietie of their opinions, attribute this to diuers causes: some to the great labour which hath beene imposed vpon these Indians; o∣thers, vnto the change and varietie of meates and drinkes they vse, since their commerce with the Spaniards: others, to their great excesse and drinking, and to other vices they haue: for my [ 30] part, I hold this disorder to be the greatest cause of their decay, whereof it is not now time to dis∣course any more. In this low Countrie (which I say generally is vnhealthfull, ond vnfit for mans habitation) there is exception in some places which are temperate and fertile, as the greatest part of the Plaines of Peru, where there are coole vallies and very fertile. The greatest part of the habitation of the coast entertains all the traffike of Spain by Sea: whereon all the estate of the In∣dies dependeth. Vpon this coast there are some Towns well peopled, as Lima and Truxillo in Pe∣ru, Panama and Carthagena vpon the maine Land, and in the Ilands Saint Dominique, Port Ricco, and Hauana, with many other Towns which are lesse then these, as the True Crosse in new Spain, Y••a, Arigua and others in Peru: the Ports are commonly inhabited, although but slenderly. The second sort of Land is contrary, very high, and by consequent, cold and dry, as all the Moun∣taines [ 40] are commonly. This Land is neither fertile nor pleasant, but very healthfull, which makes it to be peopled and inhabited. There are Pastures and great store of Cattle, the which, for the most part, entertaines life, and by their Cattell, they supply the want they haue of Corne and Graine, by trucking and exchange. But that which makes these Lands more inhabited and peopled, is the riches of the Mines that are found there, for that all obeys to Gold and Siluer. By reason of the Mines there are some dwellings of Spaniards and Indians, which are increased and multiplied, as Potozi and Gancanelicqua in Peru, and Cacatecas in new Spaine. There are also through all these Mountaines great dwellings of the Indians, which to this day are main∣tained; yea some will say they increase, but that the labour of the Mines doth consume many, and some generall diseases haue destroyed a great part, as the Cocoliste in new Spaine: yet they [ 50] finde no great diminution. In this extremitie of high ground they finde two commodities, as I haue said, of Pastures and Mines, which doe well counteruaile the two other that are in the lower grounds alongst the Sea coast, that is, the commerce of the Sea, and the abundance of Wine which groweth not but in the hot Lands. Betwixt these two extreames there is ground of a meane height, the which, although it be in some parts higher or lower one then other,* 1.3 yet doth it not approach neither to the heate of the Sea coast, nor the intemperature of the Moun∣taines. In this sort of soyle there groweth many kindes of Graine, as Wheate, Barley, and Mays, which growes not at all in the high Countries, but well in the lower; there is likewise store of Pasture, Cattell, Fruits, and greene Forrests. This part is the best habitation of the three, [ 60] for health and recreation; and therefore it is best peopled of any part of the Indies, the which I haue curiously obserued in many Voyages that I haue vndertaken, and haue alwayes found it true, that the Prouince best peopled at the Indies be in this scituation. Let vs looke neerely into new Spaine (the which without doubt is the best Prouince the Sunne doth circle) by what part soeuer you doe enter, you mount vp; and when you haue mounted a good height, you begin to