Purchas his pilgrimes. part 3 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part.

CHAP. I. [ 30] A Voyage set forth by the Right Worshipfull Sir THOMAS SMITH, and the rest of the Muscouie Company, to Cherry Iland: and for a further discouerie to be made towards the North-Pole, for the likelihood of a Trade or a passage that way, in the Ship called the Amitie, of burthen seuentie tuns; in the which I IONAS POOLE was Master, hauing fourteene men and one boy: A.D. 1610.

[ 40] THE first of March 1609. I wayed at Black-wall and went to Grauesend. The third day I went downe to the Noore-head.* 1.1 The ninth, wee wayed and put out to Sea (blessed bee God:) and by the fifteenth day I was in the Bay of Rosse, on the Coast of Norway, in Latitude 65. degrees: at what time the wind came Northerly, and blew extreame fierce, with great store of Snow and Frost. The sixteenth day, wee had the like weather and winds, so that wee could not maintaine a * 1.2 mayne-course, and we lost some of our Beere. The seuenteenth day, we had Snow, and all the Beak-head was so laden with Ice, that it seemed a firme lumpe, and the wind at North, which blew so fierce [ 50] that we could not maintaine a * 1.3 fore-course, and draue vs backe to the altitude 63. degrees, 56. minutes. The storme continued so exceeding violent, that I was faine to spoone before it fortie eight houres, and the same wind and weather continued till the twentie one day, and in that time wee were driuen as farre to the Southwards as Shottland. And being faire by the Land, and seeing no likelihood of faire weather, I got a Fisher-man to conduct mee to a good Harbour, called Hamersound, not so much to eschew the stormy weather, as to stop some leakes, and to amend our rackling.* 1.4 I tarryed in Shottland till the twelfth of April 1610. at which time the wind was Southerly. The former wind came to the North at midnight, with great store of Snow, which froze as fast as it fell: which wind continued [ 60] till the fourteenth at noone. At two of the clocke it came to the East north-east, and I stood to the Northwards, after many stormes, much cold, Snow, and extreame Frosts. I had sight of the North-cape the second day of May. Then I stood towards Chery Iland,* 1.5 the winde being at West North-west. The third day at noone, the Cape bare South South-east; seauenteene leagues off, we had much Snow with Frost. The fourth day, it was thicke weather

with great store of Snow and Frost, the winde at North-west and by North. The fift day, it was faire weather, the winde at North North-east. The sixt day, at two of the clocke in the morning,* 1.6 I met with some Ice, but not very thicke, so that I held my course toward Chery Iland, the winde being at South: at fiue of the clocke, I saw the Ice so thicke, that I could not possibly get through it.* 1.7 Then I stood to the West wards with a short sayle, and sounded, but had no ground at a hundred fathome: thicke foggie weather, at eight of the clocke it began to cleere vp, and I stoode into the Ice finding it scattered in some places; and at twelue at noone, I found the Pole eleuated aboue the horizon 74. degrees 7. minutes, and sounded, but had no ground at one hun∣dred and seauentie fathomes.* 1.8 From twelue till foure, I ran North North-west two leagues, and sounded, and had a hundred and sixtie fathomes. Then Chery Island did beare, as I iudged, North North-west, about fifteene leagues off or more: from foure till eight it was calme, at eight of [ 10] the clocke the winde came Southerly, and I stood towards the Iland and found the Ice so thicke, that the Ship had no roome to wend, and withall such a fogge that I could not see one Cables length; in which time the Ship had many a knocke, but thankes be to God, no harme was done. By twelue of the clocke, the seauenth day, I got out of the Ice and lay a hull till the North Sunne, at which time it began to be cleere weather: then I set saile, and stood to the Eastwards, cold frosty weather.

The eight day it was very foggie, the winde at North and by East, with Snow and Frost: I stood to the Eastwards, in hope to get the Easter end of the Ice, and so to Chery Island; and I ranne into a Channell betweene two firme bankes of Ice, and could finde no way through, but [ 20] lay in the Ice till the ninth day at a South Sunne. Then I obserued, and found the Ship in the altitude 74. degrees and 17. minutes, the winde being at North North-west, very faire weather, but frostie.

I sailed in the abouesaid Ice, one while one way, and another while another, in hope to finde some opening towards the Iland:* 1.9 but which way soeuer I stood, I saw all the Sea couered with Ice. At a South Sunne, the tenth day, I obserued both with my Astrolabe and Crossestaffe, and found the Poles height 74. degrees and 15. minutes:* 1.10 and the variation 13. degrees and 30. minutes the North point Westerly: by a North Sunne I got out of the Ice into the open Sea, and to write. each course, way, and winde, with all other accidents, would be too tedious: but the thirteenth day of May, at midnight, I sounded, being in very thicke Ice, and had a hundred thirtie eight [ 30] fadoms; there presently I espied the Lionesse standing into the Ice, I kept her company till eight of the clocke at night,* 1.11 and then I steered as followeth, from eight aboue said, till twelue at noone: The foureteenth day I sailed North-west and by North twelue leagues, the winde at South South-east, thicke foggie weather: from twelue till foure at night, I sailed seauen leagues North, the same winde and weather with raine. And by the fifteenth day at foure of the clocke in the morning, I had sailed North twentie seauen leagues, the same winde and weather: at what time I supposed, that I was not farre from land, because I see great store of Sea-Foule * 1.12 about the Ship: at eight of the clocke I sounded, but had no ground at a hundred and fortie fathome: very foggy weather: likewise I sounded at twelue of the clocke at noone; no ground at a hundred thirtie fiue fathomes, where I met with Ice and grear store of Fowle, as before, winde at South, and [ 40] foggie weather.

I stood through the Ice, till eight of the clocke at night, holding no course by reason of it, at which time I sounded, and had nintie fiue fathom greene oze, the weather being all one, and very much Ice from eight, till ten of the clocke. I sayled North, one legaue and a halfe, and had se∣uentie fiue fathoms rockie ground. From ten till twelue at midnight I sayled North one league and a halfe, and sounded, and had thirtie seuen fathoms, the wind being at South, with great store of raine and fogs, and abundance of Ice round about, but something broken. Then I stood off West and by South, and tooke in all the Sayles, except the fore-saile and maine top-saile: and at one of the clocke the sixteenth day sounded, and had fortie fathomes oze: likewise I soun∣ded at two of the clocke,* 1.13 and had fiftie two fathomes: I could neither perceiue Current nor Tide in all this time, and it did raine as fast as I haue commonly seene in England: then I stood to the [ 50] East wards, and at three of the clocke sounded, and had fortie fathomes oze: and thus I sailed among the Ice East and East and by South, and East North-east, keeping no certaine course, by reason of the Ice,* 1.14 and had these depths following, 30.20.19.16. and fifteene fathomes, and then I saw the Land within two leagues and lesse of me, bearing betweene the South and by East, and the North-west: then I stood in East and by South, supposing to haue found a harborough within a ledge of rocks that lay off a low point, which seemed like an Iland, and standing in, I found depths, 10.9.8.7.6.7.4. and three fathomes, standing in it a shoald bay, and full of rockes.

Then I steered a way North-west and by West, and had six, seuen, eight, and ten fathome foule ground; this part of this Land is foule ground a great way off, therefore come no neerer [ 60] this place then ten fathome, and that will carry you cleere of all dangers that I could see. To∣wards noone it cleered vp, and I did looke the Meridian altitude of the Sunne, which was 34. degrees and 20. minutes,* 1.15 the declination being 21. degrees and 10. minutes North, the Equator

must bee 13. degrees and 10. minutes aboue and beneath my Horizon. The Complement being 76. degrees and 50. minutes, the Poles height. Likewise I found by true obseruation the Com∣pass•• to vary 16. degrees,* 1.16 and before I had sayled foure leagues I saw a Sound that lay East and by South in, the winde comming to the East South-east; then I sent the Skiffe on land in the mouth of the Sound, because I supposed I had seene Morses on the land, but they proued Rocks. I followed into the said Bay with the ship, but standing in I had a stiffe gale of winde off the shoa••e, which draue abundance of Ice out of the Sound, through the which I enforced the ship, in hope there to haue found an Harbour; in turning in I found these depths, thirtie fiue, thirtie, twentie, and eighteene fathoms. The Boat came aboard about a North-west Sunne,* 1.17 and the men told me they found deepe water within and foule ground;* 1.18 they saw great store of Mohorses [ 10] lying on the Ice, but none on land, and they brought a piece of a Deeres horne aboord, therefore I called this Sound Horne Sound, and a Mount that lyeth foure leagues to the South of it, the Muscouy Companies Mount, because it was my first landfale.

Then finding no benefit here to bee had, nor Hauen for the ship, I stood to Sea,* 1.19 and sayled North-west and by North foure leagues: at midnight it blew very hard, and I stood to the West∣wards with a short sayle, and sayled foure leagues West by eight of the clock the seuenteenth day. Then I stood to the Landwards, the winde being at South South-west thick weather: and three leagues from me I saw a Point, which I named the Ice Point, because there lay abundance of Ice vpon it. Then I saw another Point beare North North-west fiue leagues off,* 1.20 which I na∣med Bell Point, because of a Hill formed like a Bell on the top,* 1.21 and to the Northwards of Bell [ 30] Point goes in a great Bay with two Sounds in it, the one lieth in East South-east, the other North-east and by East; the last Sound you can hardly discerne, by reason there is a long Iland lying in the mouth of it. But the going into the said Sound is on the North side, yet there is an Inlet vnder Point-partition, but very narrow and full of Rocks,* 1.22 and an exceeding strong Tyde setteth in there. This day I found the weather very warme and farre temperater then I haue found it at the North Cape at this time of the yeere: this place lying in 77. degrees and 25. minutes, and the Cape in 71. degrees and 20. minutes; this place being to the Northwards of the Cape 6. de∣grees and 5. minutes: and note, two leagues to the Southwards of Bell Point is a ledge of Rocks three miles off the shoare, and come no neerer the shoare then fifteene fathom: vpon the North side of the Bay is low land, which I named Lownesse Iland. I called the North Sound Lowe Sound.* 1.23 [ 30] Into the Bay I turned, the winde at East North-east faire weather; turning in I had no lesse then fortie fathoms close by the shoare, and in the middest no ground at sixtie fathoms, and be∣ing neere the Point that parteth both the Sounds, the winde increased with raine. Then I saw the Sound frozen ouer from side to side, and vpon the Ice a Beare and great store of Mohorses, but the winde blew so extreme hard, that the Boat could not row to windwards,* 1.24 to trie if we could kill some of them. The fogs and raine continued till ten of the clock the nineteenth day, at which time the raine ceased, and it did freeze with snow and winde and fogs, as before.

From twelue at mid-night the nineteenth day, till foure in the morning the twentieth day, I sayled three leagues South-west and by South, then I found the Ice thicker then before. It was very thick fogs, with winde, frost, and snow, and cold, that I thinke they did striue here which [ 40] of them should haue the superioritie. I put into the Ice aforesaid in hope to get through,* 1.25 and af∣ter many a sore stroke with the ship in it, I got through at a South-west Sunne, at what time it began to be faire weather. Then I stood through the Ice towards the land againe, in hope that that land would proue worth the labour and trauell; and going to set the mayne top sayle, it was frozen as hard as euer I saw any cloath in all my life time,* 1.26 so that all my company could ve∣ry hardly set it; and whereas I supposed, and haue often said, that this climate is not so subiect to foggs in May and Iune, as it is in Iuly and August, it is contrarie; for I haue not seene the Sunne on the Meridian these fiue dayes, nor seene it at all in sixtie houres: I had not sailed three leagues North-east, when it was as thicke as it was before with Frost and Snow: yet I stood still towards the Land.

[ 50] The twentie one, I saw the Land at an East Sunne, and stood towards it, and at a South and by West Westerly, I obserued the Sunne, and found the Meridian altitude of it 33. degrees 30. mi∣nutes, the declination being 21. degrees 56. minutes, &c. the altitude of the Pole was 78. degrees 26. minutes. The winde at North North-east: cold frostie weather: This place I called the Black-point Ile: I called a point (that lyeth foure leagues to the North-west of Black-point) Cape-cold, and to the South-east of Black-point is a great sound, which because it was couered with Ice,* 1.27 I called Ice-sound, and standing neerer to the shore, I could not see any Sound or Harbour open;* 1.28 therefore I determined to stand to the Northwards to seeke what good might be done that way to profit the Merchants, and also to get some Wood, for we had but little left. I sounded at the [ 60] Black-point, and had twentie three fathomes streamy ground. At two of the clocke I stood off, and at midnight stood to the shore againe, cold weather with frost, the winde at North and by East. The two and twentieth day, at an East Sunne, I was faire by the Land, betweene Cape-cold and Black-point, a league off where it fell calme, and I sounded there, and had twentie eight fathoms, where I tried for Fish, but could take none.

The three and twentieth day, at an East North-east Sunne, I was within three leagues of Capecold: this day it was faire weather, and I tooke the Sunnes height at twelue of the clocke, and found it to be 33. degrees 30. minutes, the declination being 22. degrees 13 mi∣nutes, the distance of the Pole from my Zeneth, was 11. degrees 17. minutes, the com∣plement thereof being 78. degrees and 43. minutes,* 1.29 the Poles altitude. All this day it was calme a••l the forenoone, warme sunshine weather, and whereas I named this place Cape-cold, if I had f••lne with it this day, or the like, I should haue giuen it another name. Here I tried to take fish, but could perceiue none. Item, there is a point that beareth from Cape-cold North & by West which I called Faire-forland:* 1.30 this Forland, and Cape-cold, and Black-point, are all one Iland. At sixe of the clocke at night, the winde came to the North North-west, then I determined to [ 10] view the Ice-sound better; but comming neere it, I perceiued it packt ful of Ice, so that I could see no end thereof at the Top-mast-head, neither could I see any open water in it. At a North Sun, the wind came to the North-east, and by North, then I stood to the Northwards, as before.

The foure and twentieth day, at a North-east Sunne, the wind came to the South-west, faire weather and warme. At a North north-east Sun, I tooke the Meridian Altitude, which was ele∣uen degrees aboue the Horizon, and by working accordingly, I found the eleuation of the Pole aboue the Horizon, to be 78. degrees, 37. minutes. The fiue and twentieth day, at an East-south-east Sun, I set the boat to the land, neere Fayer-forland, and it being calme I sounded fortie fiue fa∣thoms,* 1.31 where I proued for fish, but could find none, and within one league of the shoare I had fiue and thirtie, and thirtie fathome streamy ground. At a South-east Sunne, the Boat came [ 20] aboord laden with Wood,* 1.32 and some Whales fins. The men told mee there was great store of Morses in the Sea, about the shoare side, and about thirtie on Land. Immediately I sent my Mate, Nicholas Woodcock with the Boat on Land againe, to see if they could kill any of the said Mohorses, and also to search what other thing they should hap to find that might proue be∣neficiall. Moreouer I was certified, that all the Ponds and Lakes were vnfrozen, they being Fresh-water, which putteth mee in hope of a milde Summer here, after so sharpe a beginning as I haue had, and my opinion is such (and I assure my selfe it is so) that a passage may bee assoone at∣tayned this way,* 1.33 by the Pole, as any vnknowne way whatsoeuer, by reason the Sun doth giue a great heat in this climate; and the Ice, I meane that that freezeth here, is nothing so huge as I haue seene in 73. degrees. [ 30]

The sixe and twentieth day, at a North-east Sunne, the Boat came aboord againe, hauing slaine but two Morses, at twelue at midnight the wind came to the North, and blew so hard, that I was enforced to try with a Mayne-course, cold frosty weather, with snow. The sayd wind and weather continued till a South Sun, the seuen and twentieth day, at eight of the clocke at night, the wind came to the North-west and by West faire weather, then I stood towards the Land a∣gain. And at a South-east sun, the eight & twentieth day, I was within three leagues of Fayer-for∣land, and standing in I sounded diuers times, and had these depths, 15.17.19. and 18. fathoms, within fiue, sixe, and seuen myles of the shoare, and when Fayer-forland did beare South and by East by the Compasse. It being two miles from me, I saw the Land beare North-east and by North, about nine leagues off, the which because it was full of knottie Mountaines, I called Knot∣tie-point,* 1.34 [ 40] and betweene Knottie-point, and Fayer-forland, I saw a great Bay, which because it was foggy on the sudden, I could not discouer. In the Sea, about the Forland, I saw great store of Mo∣horses and Sea-fowle, I sounded in the Bay and had nintie fiue fathomes rockie ground. I stood to Sea, and had very foule weather, with snow, and fogs, and frost, which weather continued till the thirtieth day,* 1.35 at foure of the clocke in the morning, at which time I was within one mile of Fayer-forland in nine fathomes, and then I sayled East North-east about two miles, and had these dephs, 18.17.16.14. and 12. fathomes all rockes. Then I steered South with the like depths and grounds, but when I had runne South South-east three miles further, I had sandie ground, then did Fayer-forland beare West and by North, about three leagues of, the next cast I had tenne fathomes foule ground, and from thence I steered two leagues South and by East, hauing these [ 50] depths, 10.9.8. and 7. fathomes, then I saw the Bay couered ouer with Ice. I turned out the wind at North. This Sound I named Fowle-sound, for in this Bay are three Sounds; this I spake last of,* 1.36 which lyeth in South, and goeth out at Black-point: another lyeth in East South-east, which I named Deere-sound:* 1.37 another goeth in North, which is called Closse-coue, and being neere the point betweene Fowle-sound and Deere-sound, it fell calme, and I sent the Skiffe on Land, and standing after, with a little wind at West. I found the sayd Point very shoale, with a ridge of Rockes, where I had these depths, 4.5.6.7.9.10.18. and then 30. fathomes. At a South Sun, the Boat came aboord and brought Wood, and some Whale-fins.

The last of May, at an East North-east Sun, I was within three leagues of Knotty-point, at which time I saw Ice all the Sea ouer betwixt the West and the Land:* 1.38 then I saw another Point foure [ 60] leagues distant from Knotty-point, the one bearing of the other North and by East, and South and by West,* 1.39 and it is smooth Land, the which I named the Gurnerds-nose, indifferent warme wea∣ther: and finding the Ice to bee so thicke that I could not passe it, and the wind comming to the West, I stood to the Southwards againe, determining to search the Sounds better for a Road, and

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for commodities, because I saw no good to bee gotten in keeping the Sea amongst the Ice, and at a North Sun, I was in the entrance of Close-coue, where I had no ground at one hundred & twenty fathomes, and yet I was within two Cables length of a sunken ledge of Rockes,* 1.40 that lyeth on the Larboord side of the Bay a mile from the shoare.

The first of Iune I found a good Road in Close-coue, on the South-west side,* 1.41 where I rid in seuen fathomes sand mingled with oze, at an East Sun I sent a Skiffe to a low Point, that lyeth on the North side of the Bay, where they found some Whales fins, and three pieces of Mohorse teeth, and vpon a little rockie Iland, they saw neere one hundred Mohorses, which were there sleeping. In this time I went towards the bottome of the Sound, and slue a white Beare.* 1.42 At a South-west Sun, I went towards the rocke, to see if I could kill any of the Morses that lay there, [ 10] and as wee went by the shoare side I espied Deere, three of them I slue,* 1.43 and one of my com∣pany one. But when I came to the rocke, the Ice that the beasts lay on was hollow, and the rocks that was betwixt the Ice and the sea stood sloping toward the Sea; the which when I saw, I determined to go aboord and let them alone, yet afterward I went on the rocke betwixt the Ice and the Sea: and as I with the rest of my company were killing them, the Ice brake, and Ice and beasts slid into the Sea together, and carryed one of the men with them, so that he escaped out of that danger very hardly; for besides the weight of dead Mohorses, and Ice that bruised him, the beasts that were aliue strook at him in the water, and bruised him very soare. I had beene in the [ 20] same case, if I had not beene the nimbler, and slipt on one side. I killed three Morses,* 1.44 whose teeth I tooke off. Then I espied the Beare, which my Mate had hurt before with a shot; hee went into the Sea, when hee saw the Boate, where I slue him with a Lance,* 1.45 and brought him aboord.

The second day at a North and by East Sunne. At a South Sunne, I went to the South shoare of Deere-sound, where I found a good quantitie of Fins, and came aboord, at a North North-west Sunne. The third day, being Sunday, I rid still, hauing the wind at West South-West much wind. Then vpon the side of a Hill, a mile to the Westwards of the Road, I set vp a Crosse,* 1.46 with a writing vpon it, signifying the day of my arriuall first in this Land, by whom I was set out, and the time of my being heere. This Road I called Crosse-road. At a South-east sunne the fourth day, I wayed, the wind at West South-west, and when I was almost out, the wind in∣creased with fogs, which made me put back into the Road, where I anchored the same day at six [ 30] of the clocke, at afternone. The fifth day, at a North-east and by East sunne I wayed, and it fell calme, then I went to the East side, and killed some Fowle, which I found in great abundance: and when I was readie to go aboord, I saw fourteene Deere, at which time I spent all my powder,* 1.47 and shot but one shot, with the which I slue a fat Buck. The same day, at a South sun, I went on Land and slue two Deere more. And at a South-west sun I went on Land and slue a Dog, and took the Faune aliue, and brought it aboord, but it dyed the next day. The calme continued till the sixth day, at an East North-east sunne (and we droue in the Bay, with a little soaking tyde that runneth there.) Then I sent the skiffe to the rocke aforesaid, to see what store of Mohorses were there; at three of the clocke they came aboord, and told mee there was neere two hundred beasts.* 1.48 [ 40] I tooke both the boat and skiffe, with all my company, and went to the rock, and in going thither I slue a Beare: but when I came to the rocke, the beasts began to goe into the sea, then I presently went on land, with all my company, and slue eightie beasts,* 1.49 whose teeth I tooke, and in going aboord slue another Beare, and came aboord the seuenth day, at a North-east sun. Then I saw two white fishes, which at the first fight I supposed to be Beares, they had long snouts like Scurgeons, two flat Fins close by their gils, flat bodied, small towards their tailes, and a broad taile.

The tenth day, I went on shoare and slue fiue Deere; with the which,* 1.50 and them that I slue before I haue lengthened out my victuals, blessed be the Creator of the World, * 1.51 which hath not made any part thereof in vaine, but so that in these parts (which hath seemed vnpossible to our Ancestors to bee trauelled vnto, by reason of the extreame cold which they supposed to bee [ 50] here) I find the ayre temperate in the Lands, and nothing so cold as I haue found at Chery Iland in fiue seuerall Voyages. Moreouer, in this Land I haue seene great store of Deere, which haue neither bush nor tree to shelter them from the nipping cold of Winter, nor yet a∣ny extraordinarie pasture to refresh them. If these (I say) hauing nothing but the Rockes for a house, and the Starry Canopie for a couering doe liue here; why may not man, which hath all the gifts of God bestowed vpon him for his health and succour▪

The eleuenth day in the morning, I sent the skiffe to a Beach, that lyeth Northwards from the Rocke where we slue our beasts, but when they came to the Rocke, it beganne to blow hard at North North-west, that they could not proceed any further, vpon the Rocke they found a Beare, and slue him, and came aboord. In which time I tooke the boate and went [ 60] to the East side, and slue two Beares and two Deere.

The twelfth day, at a North-east sunne I wayed, and hauing very little wind▪* 1.52 I sent the skiffe to goe to the place abouesayd, at a North sunne, they came aboord and brought some Whales Finnes and a Beare, and told mee that it did blow very much wind at Sea, yet I had

it all this time calme in the Bay. Yet before I could get out of the Sound, the wind came to the North-west,* 1.53 and blew very hard, which made mee to put roome for Crosse-road, where I rid till the fourteenth day, in which time I caused both the boates to bee trimmed, and the thirteenth day at noone, I obserued on Land, in this place, and found the Poles height 79. degrees, fifteene minutes, and the variation of the Compasse 18. degrees, 16. minutes North-west: the same day I slue a Bucke.

The fourteenth day, at a South-east Sunne I wayed, the wind at South-west foggie weather, at a South-west Sunne, I went on Land and slew a Buck. The fifteenth day, at East Sunne, I got out of the Bay,* 1.54 at which time I saw abundance of Ice to the Sea-wards, but the wind came to the South-east, and I sayled betwixt the Ice and the shoare. At a North-west Sunne, I sent the skiffe (with seuen men in it) to the Land vnder Knottie-point, at which time the wind [ 10] came to the North-east, and I stood to the North-wardes, where I had these depths, fifteene, thirteene,* 1.55 and eleuen fathomes foule-ground. These depths were about a league, and to the Northwards of Knottie-point, I saw great store of Whales, the like I saw in Deere-sound. The sixteenth day, the Skiffe came aboord, and brought a few Finnes, and fiue Deere, and they told mee that within the Bay,* 1.56 that lyeth betwixt Knottie-point and Gurnerds-nose is a Hauen, in the entrance whereof is an Iland, and seuen fathomes going in, but within eight, nine, fifteene, and twentie fathomes good ground. This maketh Gurnerds-nose, an Iland, for this Hauen go∣eth out on the North-west side of Gurnerds-nose. I named this Hauen, the Fayre-hauen; I found a great tyde heere,* 1.57 which runneth South South-west, the floud commeth from the [ 20] Southwards.

Then standing to the Northwards, I saw the Sea couered with Ice, which lay close to the Land which made me stand to the Southwards again, I obserued at Gurnerds-nose, and found the Poles height 79. degrees,* 1.58 50. minutes. At a North-west Sun, the same day, I sent the skiffe on Land to search the Coast to the Southwards of Knottie-point, where I sounded and had twenty foure fathomes Foule-ground, and in the Fayre-way I sounded, hauing these depths, 30.35.45. and 48. fathomes all Rocky-ground. By the seuenteenth day, I was in the entrance of Close-coue, at a South Sun, at which time the Skiffe came aboord, and brought a Beares skin, and a Buck, and a good quantite of Whales Fins and an Vnicornes horne, which was fiue foot and seuen inches long, and in the biggest part of it, it was seuen inches and a halfe about. The eighteenth day, at a [ 30] South Sun, I came into the Road, where I rid all that day, hauing very much wind and raine that wee could doe nothing. At a North Sunne, I sent my Mate, with the Skiffe, and sixe men to seeke for more Fins, &c. The ninteenth day, at a North Sun, they came aboord, hauing slaine ten Beares, three of their skins and fat they brought aboord, and a good quantitie of Fins, and six paire of teeth. The twentieth day, in the morning, I sent both the Boat and Skiffe to slay the other seuen Beares, the wind being at North faire weather. But they were no sooner gone, but it blew very hard at North, which brought abundance of Ice out of the bottome of the Sound, but did the Ship no hurt. At a West South West Sunne, the Boats came aboord with the Beares skins, the wind abouesaid set so much Ice out of the sound vpon the Ship, that it inforced mee to set sayle. [ 40]

The one and twentieth day, at a North Sun, I stood towardes Fayer-forland, and sent out the skiffe. The two and twentieth day, at a South-east sunne, they came aboord, with the skiffe laden with Fins,* 1.59 and killed fiue Deere. Then I went on Land to search what I could find, and I slew a Beare, and tooke a young one aliue, and at three of the clocke in the afternoone I came aboord with the skiffe laden with Fins. The three & twentieth day, at a South-east sun, the Boat came aboord, and brought a good quantitie of Finnes, and a Beares skinne. Then I stood to∣ward Cape-cold,* 1.60 and the same day, at a South sunne, I sent the skiffe on Land to the North∣wards of the Cape, where they found sixteene Mohorses on a rocke, which they slue; and at a North-east sun,* 1.61 the foure and twentieth day, they had brought all the teeth and blubber of them aboord; at which time the wind came to the North-west, and blew verie hard: then I stood towardes the Ice-sound to seeke what commodities it would yeeld. At a North sunne I was [ 50] neere Black-point, which hath a great many sunken Rockes lying on the southermost end of it, therefore you must come no neerer that shoare then twentie fiue fathomes. The fiue and twen∣tieth day, till a South sun, it was calme, and the tyde droue the ship so farre from the Land, that I could not send the boat on shoare.

* 1.62The sixe and twentieth day, at a South South-west Sunne, I came aboord, more laden with trauell then commodities, at which time I slue a Buck. Then I stood toward Ice-sound, and at a Point which parteth Foule-sound and Ice-sound, I had thirtie fathomes oze, & so to ten fathomes Rockes, then I steered East along the shoare, and had betwixt thirtie and fifteene fathomes oze and sand. In fifteen fathomes I anchored, hauing the wind at North North-west, faire weather at a North-west sun, at a North sun, I sent the skiffe to the shoare to search for commodities. The [ 60] seuen and twentieth day of Iune, at an East North-east sun, they came aboord, and brought a good parcell of fins. At six of the clock I sent the Skiffe to the Land againe, and set sayle with the ship; but it being calme, and the tide setting the Ship towards a ledge of rocks, made mee to anchor a∣gaine.

At a South South-east Sun, they came aboord againe, and brought a good quantitie of fins: at a South Sunne I sent the Skiffe towardes the mouth of Ice-sound, and in the entrance thereof I found a Coue in the which was twentie fathomes, and so to thirteene, but by reason of the tyde, and edy-winds, I could not get into it; here the Skiffe came aboord and brought a few finnes. Then I steered to another Sound, in the Southside of Ice-sound, where I anchored in twentie fa∣thomes oze, the same day at a North Sun. The eight and twentieth day I stayed at the place a∣bouesaid, and tried the Beares grease to bring it into oyle, and when we were all busied, a Beare came swimming ouer the Bay, towards the ship, which I slew, and split my Peece,* 1.63 the wind be∣ing at West. The nine and twentieth day, at a South-east Sunne, I sent the skiffe to search the Coast to the Westwards of this Bay, the wind at North-west. The last of Iune,* 1.64 the skiffe [ 10] came aboord, at a South-east Sunne, and brought a few Finnes, and a Bucke, the wind at North.

The first of Iuly▪ being Sunday, I rid at the place abouesaid,* 1.65 in hope to haue more Mo∣on Land; I obserued heere and found this place in 78. degrees, 24. minutes, and the va∣riation Westwards, seuenteene degrees. Then I sent the skiffe to see if any more beasts were on Land. The wind at Northwest, faire weather. The second day, at a North North-east Sunne; they came aboord and brought two Deere. The third, wee slew a few Morses,* 1.66 whose teeth and blubber wee brought aboord, at a North-west Sunne, at which time I slew a Pricket: this place I named the Green-hauen. Immediately I sent the skiffe to take the teeth, and fat of seuen beasts, which lay slaine in another place. The wind at West, thicke foggie wea∣ther. [ 20] It floweth here on the Change day South, and by West, and hyeth sixe foot water, and run∣neth halfe tyde halfe quarter. The fourth day, wee rid still at the South-west with fogges and raine, and very much wind: at the same time I saw great store of Ice in Ice sound. The fifth day,* 1.67 at a North-east Sunne I wayed, the wind at West thicke weather; and in standing out wee slew a she Beare, and tooke her two young ones. Indifferent faire weather, we lay becalmed all this day.* 1.68

The sixth day, I was off Lownesse (at a South Sunne) the wind being at East blew so hard, with raine and thicke weather, that I was enforced to take in all the sayles saue a Mayne course, which storme continued till eight at night, at which time I set more sayle, and stood to the Southwardes, hoping to get some goods that way. The seuenth day, at noone the wind came to the North-east, and then it began to bee cleere weather, at what time I saw the [ 30] Land of Bel-sound, whither I purposed to goe, yet could not by reason of abundance of Ice, which lay aboue three leagues from the Land, which I could not possibly passe. At a North-west and by West sun, I saw abundance of Ice all along the Land, to the Southwards of Bel-sound.* 1.69 The eight day, at twelue at noone, I stood into the Ice, in hope to get to the shoare, the wind at North and by West hasie weather, Horn••-sound bearing East North-east, nine leagues of, I stood to the landwards till foure of the clocke, at which time I found the Ice so thick that I was forced to stand to the Southwards to eschew it. I sayled by, and amongst the Ice, till a North North-west Sunne, at which time I was within three leagues of the shoare. Then I soun∣ded, and had thirtie sixe fathomes. Then I stood to the Westwards, and finding all this part of the Land full of Ice, I purposed to stand to the Northwards againe to search for commodi∣ties [ 40] that way: the wind being at North-west, I turned to windwards, till the tenth day, at eight of the clocke before noone, at which time we•• found a part of a dead Whale, which I caused to bee made fast to the Ship, determining to get into some Harbour,* 1.70 there to make the best of it. I could get into Bel-sound, at which time I saw all the bottom of the Sound full of Ice, so that there was no refuge for the Ship. Then I was faine to turne out with the winde at West, and beganne to blow verie hard. At a North-west Sunne, it was fayre weather, and I sent my Mate with the skiffe to search the Coasts towardes Bel-point. The fourteenth day, at a North-east Sunne, the skiffe came aboord, and brought three Beares, which they had slaine. Immediately I sent the Boat for water and wood,* 1.71 and then I stood through the Ice, and got through it by a North Sun the fifteenth day, the wind at North-west [ 50] foggie weather. Then I turned to windwards, to double Lownesse, and got cleere of it: at sixe of the clocke at night thicke foggie weather.

The sixteenth day, at fiue of the clocke in the afternoone, I got to Black-point, the wind com∣ming to the South, thicke weather. Then I sent the skiffe to range the Coast, and to search what they might find. The seuenteenth day, at ten of the clocke they came aboord,* 1.72 and brought some Fins, and three Deere. Then I stood towards Crosse-road, and ankered there at a North-sun, the wind and weather as abouesaid. The eighteenth day, about fiue of the clocke in the mor∣ning, I sent the skiffe to see if they could find any Mor••es on Land, on the Rocke, or in Deere-sound, and in the meane time, I, with the rest of the company got drift-wood and water readie,* 1.73 [ 60] and about a South sunne, a Beare with two young ones; the Dam I slew, and tooke the young ones aboord the ship, the wind Northerly, cold, foggie weather. The nine and twentieth day, in the morning, I went to th•• Eastside, to see if any Mohorses were on land; there I slew foure ex∣ceeding fat Buckes and a Doe. In which time the skiffe came aboord and brought two Beares skins, but found no beasts, and in Deere-sound they found Sea-coales, which burnt very well.

The twentieth day, I sent the Skiffe into the bottome of Closse-coue to search it for commodi∣ties, the wind at South close weather with raine: at eight of the clock at night they came aboord, but found nothing; immediately I got wood and water aboord, which was ready before, prepa∣ring to set sayle the wind and weather abouesaid, we slue three Deere. The one and twentieth, I wayed, the wind at North faire weather. The two and twentieth day, the wind came to the West, and then I stood to the Northward, at eight of the clocke ha••••-weather. At twelue of the clocke at noone the wind came to the North, and I stood to the Southwards by Fayer-forland. The three and twentieth day, at an East north-east Sunne, the Boat brought some Whales finnes, and three Buckes,* 1.74 and one Doe: In which time I thought I had seene Land beare West from me. I stood to the Westwards, and by a South South-east sunne, had run fifteene leagues West and by [ 10] South, then I perceiued it to be fogs. The foure and twentieth day, at seuen of the clocke in the afternoone I came into Bel-sound and found but little Ice, then I sent the Skiffe to seeke for a Road for the Ship, and also for commodities. The fiue and twentieth day, at three of the clocke in the morning, the Skiffe came aboord, hauing beene in the mouth of the North Inlet, which I call Low-sound, they went into it by Point-partition, but there is no good Channell that way for a Ship:* 1.75 neuerthelesse there seemeth to bee an Inlet or Channell, but it is full of Rockes from side to side, and the men told mee, that vpon the Land lay some Mohorses, which I sent them to kill. At eight of the clocke, the Skiffe came aboord, and brought the teeth of the sayd beasts, and some blubber. Immediately I sent them into Bel-sound, to seeke for a Road for the Ship, the wind at West thicke foggie weather. About an North West Sunne, I anchored in Bel-sound, in sixteen [ 20] fathomes ozie ground,* 1.76 this Harbour lyeth about two leagues aboue Point-partition on the South∣side of it, and here a ship may ride safe from all windes. At a North Sunne my Mate slue a Beare. The six and twentieth day in the morning, it blew hard, and I went on Land and slue a Beare, and a Bucke which had three inches and an halfe in thicknesse of fat on the haunches. At nine of the clocke I sent both the Boats to fetch the fat of those Mohorses which were slaine the day before, and likewise to search if they could find any more, the wind at North with fogs. At six of the clocke at night the Boats came abo••rd with the fat, and brought two Buckes, but found no beasts on Land.

The seuen and twentieth day, at a South South-east Sunne I weighed, the winde being at North and by West faire weather, and I steered out (betwixt an Iland and the point where I [ 30] rid) South-west and by West, hauing these depths, 10.7.6.5. and 4. fathomes: then I was in the middest betwixt the said point, and a shoald which lay South and North, one of the other, and after keeping the same course, I had these depths, 5.6.7.8.9.10.12. and 13. fathomes, in all these depths I had sand, and after oze. At sixe of the clocke the wind came to the South-west with fogges, and I turned to the wind-wards. And at twelue, the eight and twentieth day Low∣nesse did beare North-east about foure leagues off, where I sounded hauing thirtie two fathomes streamie ground with blacke stones, at which time it was calme, and continued so till the nine and twentieth day at sixe of the clocke in the morning, then the wind came to the North with fogges, and I stood to the Southwards, and to see what Commodities I could find that way.

At nine of the clocke I was neere the Ice-sound, where I met with much Ice, which put mee [ 40] from the Land,* 1.77 and I was enforced to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 South-west and by South to shunne it, the winde at North-west which blew hard with fogges. The wind increased, I stood towards Cherrie Iland (if possible I could attayne it) for fogges and Ice. The thirtieth day, at foure of the clocke in the morning I saw no Ice, hauing kept to certayne course, by reason of the Ice which I had past, the winde at North and by West, cold foggie weather with raine. From the time aboue-said till twelue of the clocke at noone I sayled South South-east, and ranne fifteene leagues, the same wind and weather, at which time I sounded & had eightie fathoms greene oze like Kowes dung. I sounded at two of the clocke, and at foure of the clock, the first, eightie eight, the second, eigh∣tie two fathomes, and sayled sixe leagues, the formes course wind and weather. At which time I heard a breach which proued Ice, then I steered West to eschew it, the fogges being so thicke [ 50] that I could not see one Cables length.

The last of Iuly at noone, I had sayled South and by East halfe a point Southerly eight leagues hauing little wind, and sounded, and found one hundred and fortie fathomes thicke foggie wea∣ther, and in haling vp the Lead, a fish followed it to the top of the water: then I tryed to take fish but could not.* 1.78 At foure of the clocke in the afternoone, the winde came Southerly, and I stood to the Westward, by reason the Ice lay both to the South and East of vs, at a North 〈◊〉〈◊〉 it was cleere weather, and I saw the Ice round about vs, cold weather with frost.

The first of August, we beat in the Ice till noone, but could finde no end thereof, because it was so foggie, and the Ice packed very close; yet after many intricate courses, I got to the West∣ward•• of it at mid-night the same day, the winde at South-east, cold weather with raine and [ 60] fogges. And after I had seene so much Ice that I could not come neere Cherry Iland, to prosecute the rest of my Voyage,* 1.79 I determined to stand for England, as God would giue me leaue. From mid-night the first day, till eight of the clocke the second day before noone, I sayled South-west and by South fiue leagues, the wind at East South-east, thicke fogges with raine. From the se∣cond

day at eight of the clocke, till the third day at twelue of the clock at noone, I sayled West South-west fifteene leagues, the wind at South and by East, wet foggie weather. From noone abouesaid, till twelue at noone the fourth day, I sayled foure leagues South, the winde variable, and the most part of that time calme, and so continued till eight of the clocke at night, at which time the wind came to the South and by East, and blew very hard; from the fourth day at noon till the fift day at noone I sayled South-west Westerly seuen leagues. The sixt day, the winde was at South-east cleere weather, at noone I found the shippe in 73. degrees, the North Cape bearing by my computation, East South-east Easterly. The seuenth day at noone, I found the ship in 72. degrees 22. minutes, indifferent faire weather. And from the seuenth day at [ 10] noone, till the eight day at noone I sayled foure and twentie leagues, the course South South-west, the wind at South-east and by East, at which time it beganne to be very foggie, and the winde came to the South, but immediatly it was calme, and continued so till mid-night. Then the wind came to the North, little wind, and at a South Sunne the ninth day, I had sayled South seuen leagues. From the ninth day at noone till the tenth day at that time I sayled South, and ranne seuen leagues South, it being calme most part of the day, with much rayne and fogges. From twelue the tenth day, till noone the eleuenth day, I sayled South and by West, and ranne seuenteene leagues, the wind Northerly. And from the eleuenth day at noone, till the twelfth [ 20] at that time, I sayled South and by West eighteene leagues, the winde at North North-west faire weather. From noone the twelfth day, vntill twelue at noone the thirteenth day, I sayled South and by West fortie eight leagues, the wind betweene the North, and the West North-west gustie weather. From the thirteenth at noone, till the fourteenth at noone, I say∣led South and by West fortie fiue leagues, the wind betwixt the West North-west, and the West South-west gustie weather, latitude 64. degrees 21. minutes. From the fourteenth day at noone, till the fifteenth day at that time, I sayled South and by West nine and twentie leagues, at which time I obserued and found the ship in 62. degrees 53. minutes faire weather,* 1.80 the wind at North. At foure of the clocke the same day, I saw Skutsnesse in Norway seuenteene leagues off, and bearing South-east, from whence I hold it superfluous to write it, being a place well knowne. The last of August I arriued at London, Blessed be God for euer and euer. Amen.

A briefe note what Beasts, Fowles▪ and Fishes were seene [ 30] in this Land.

BEasts: Buckes, and Does, white Beares and Foxes, of colour dunne and grey.

Fowles: white Partridges, a small land Bird, like a Sparrow, partly white, and partly browne, a Fowle with a combe and a tayle like a Cock, a redde Fowle of the bignesse of a Pid∣geon; a white Fowle with a greene bill, the top of the bill of it and the eyes were redde,* 1.81 with blacke feet. Wild Geese, Coluidines, Gulls, Sea-mewes, Willockes, Noddies, Ice-birds, Reeks, and Sea-pidgeons.

Fishes: great store of Whales, Gramposes, Mohorses, the white fish I spake of the seuenth [ 40] of Iune, a small fish like Cuplen, likewise I saw the bones of Cods, or Haddocks; but could take no fish: I often looked for Shel-fish, but could take none: diuers of my company did see two Beauers.

Notes

• * 1.1

  A.D. 1609. Secund. Comput. Ang.
• * 1.2

  The Main-sayle without a Bonnet.
• * 1.3

  The Fore-sayle without a Bonnet.
• * 1.4

  Hamersound in Shotland.
• * 1.5

  North Cape in 71. degrees 20. minutes. May the se∣cond.
• * 1.6

  Chery Iland.
• * 1.7

  Ice.
• * 1.8

  The sixt day of May wee were in 74. de∣grees 7. mi∣nutes.
• * 1.9

  Abundance of Ice.
• * 1.10

  74. degrees 15. minutes. vari∣ation 13. de∣grees. 30. mi∣nutes.
• * 1.11

  The Lyonesse was sent to Che∣ry Iland.
• * 1.12

  As Cobodines wildgeese and Willocks. Ice.
• * 1.13

  Much raine.
• * 1.14

  Land the 16. day of May.
• * 1.15

  Note.
• * 1.16

  76. degrees 50 minutes, Pole height.

  Variation 16. degrees.

  The North point westerly.
• * 1.17

  Rockes.
• * 1.18

  Mohorses or Morses. Hornsound. Muscouy Mount.
• * 1.19

  For these pla∣ces see Captain Edges Map.
• * 1.20

  Ice point.
• * 1.21

  Bell point.
• * 1.22

  Point parti∣tion.

  The ayre tem∣perate·
• * 1.23

  Lownesse Ile. Lowsound.
• * 1.24

  The Sounds season.

  Very thicke fogs.
• * 1.25

  Extreame cold weather.
• * 1.26

  Sailes frozen.
• * 1.27

  Black-point Ile
• * 1.28

  Cape-cold. Ice-sound.
• * 1.29

  Faire weather.
• * 1.30

  Fayer-forland.
• * 1.31

  No fish.
• * 1.32

  In all this land by the sea side is good store of Drift-wood, but none groweth here. N. Wood cock. Whale-fins.
• * 1.33

  Hope of a Po∣late passage.
• * 1.34

  Knotty-point.
• * 1.35

  Thirty day of May.
• * 1.36

  Foule-sound.
• * 1.37

  Deere-sound. Close-Coue.
• * 1.38

  Ice.
• * 1.39

  Gornerd-nose.
• * 1.40

  Note.
• * 1.41

  Iune.
• * 1.42

  A Beare slaine▪
• * 1.43

  Foure Deere slaine.
• * 1.44

  His name was Tho. Whiteman.
• * 1.45

  A Beare slaine.
• * 1.46

  A crosse set vp. Crosse-road. A good Road for all winds.
• * 1.47

  There is great store of Fowle in this Land. A Buck slaine.
• * 1.48

  Three Deere slaine.
• * 1.49

  A fawne taken Beares slaine. Mohorses.

  White fishes.
• * 1.50

  Fiue Deere.
• * 1.51

  Isa. 45.18.
• * 1.52

  Two Beares▪ and two Deere slaine.
• * 1.53

  Crosse-road. in 79. degres 15 minutes.

  Compasse vary 18. degrees 16. minutes.
• * 1.54

  Ice.
• * 1.55

  Great store of Whales.
• * 1.56

  Fiue Deere slaine.
• * 1.57

  Faier-Hauen. Abundance of Ice.
• * 1.58

  79. degrees 50. minutes. the Latitude of Gornerds nose. The f••rthest place of my be∣ing this Voyage This Vnicorns horne is the Horne of a fish of which s••e after in Baffins discouery. Ten Beares slaine.
• * 1.59

  Fiue Deere slaine.
• * 1.60

  A yong beare taken.
• * 1.61

  A Beare slaine Take heede of this point.
• * 1.62

  A Bucke slaine
• * 1.63

  A Beare slaine.
• * 1.64

  A Bucke.
• * 1.65

  Iuly the first. 78 degrees, 24. mitutes, var. 17. W.
• * 1.66

  Two Deere slaine.

  Greene-harbour one Deere slaine.
• * 1.67

  Ice.
• * 1.68

  A Beare slaine, two yong ones taken.
• * 1.69

  Ice.
• * 1.70

  A dead Whale.
• * 1.71

  Three Beares slaine.
• * 1.72

  Three Deeres slaine.
• * 1.73

  A Beare with two young ones taken. Fiue Deere slaine.

  Two Beares slaine.

  Sea-coales,
• * 1.74

  Three Bucks slaine.
• * 1.75

  No good cha∣nell.
• * 1.76

  A Beare slaine. A fat Bucke. And although I haue not written of the farnesse of the rest, yet the most of them were two and three inches thicke of fat.
• * 1.77

  My departure from the land. Ice.
• * 1.78

  A fish seene, Ice & fogs two of the greatest hinderances in the Northerne Nauigations.
• * 1.79

  I stood 〈◊〉〈◊〉 England.
• * 1.80

  In 62. degrees 15. minutes.
• * 1.81

  The Colui∣dine is as big as a Mallard, the male is neerer of the colour, and the female browne.