Purchas his pilgrimes. part 3 In fiue bookes. The first, contayning the voyages and peregrinations made by ancient kings, patriarkes, apostles, philosophers, and others, to and thorow the remoter parts of the knowne world: enquiries also of languages and religions, especially of the moderne diuersified professions of Christianitie. The second, a description of all the circum-nauigations of the globe. The third, nauigations and voyages of English-men, alongst the coasts of Africa ... The fourth, English voyages beyond the East Indies, to the ilands of Iapan, China, Cauchinchina, the Philippinæ with others ... The fifth, nauigations, voyages, traffiques, discoueries, of the English nation in the easterne parts of the world ... The first part.

CHAP. VIII. A Voyage made to Pechora 1611. Written by WILLIAM GOV••DON of Hull, appointed chiefe Pilot, for [ 40] Discouerie to Ob, &c.

THe eleuenth of Aprill we weighed Anchor at Blacke-wall in the Riuer of Thames, in a ship called the Amitie; whereof Iames Vadun was Master, and sayling a∣long the Coasts of England, Scotland, Norway, and Finmarke, on the eleuenth of the next moneth of May, wee found our selues in the latitude of 71. degrees 40. minutes.

The twelfth, wee ranne fortie eight leagues North North-east, the wind being at South South-east, and found our selues in the latitude of 73. degrees 42. minutes, and at [ 50] night wee had shoaldings of Cherie Iland: for wee were enioyned by our Commission to touch there, although it were three degrees to the North out of our way.

* 1.1The thirteenth, being Whit-sunday it cleered vp, and then we did see Cherie Iland six leagues East South-east from vs.

The fourteenth, being faire weather, we stood to the Northwards, thinking to haue gone on shoare, but we could not for Ice, and labouring to Land on the South side of the Iland, wee met with Ionas Poole about Eeuening in the Elizabeth,* 1.2 who came as then to the Iland, and was set forth by the Right Worshipfull Company of our Russian Merchants, to discouer further North∣ward, from eightie degrees toward the North Pole. Then we stood to the Eastward, where wee found great store of Ice.

The fifteenth, we spent on the South-side of the Iland, in hope of the arriuall of the Marie [ 60] Margaret, which being a ship of nine score Tunnes, was set forth very chargeably by the a∣foresaid Russian Company,* 1.3 and had in her sixe Baskes, being excellent Whale-killers of Saint Iohn de Luz, for the killing of the Whale on the Coast of Greenland, in a Road called Crosse Road,

standing exceeding farre to the North, euen in the latitude of 79. degrees and better. The same day at night, seeing that there we could doe no good, we determined to proceed on our Voyage for the Riuer of Pechora: and Letters being giuen one to the other for Testimoniall of our mee∣ting in that place, we left Ionas Pooley, and directed our course to the Eastward.

The two and twentieth of May, we came to a small Iland, called Bigs Hole by Tapani Harbour.* 1.4 The three and twentieth, we arriued at the Ile of Kildin in Lappia.

The foure and twentieth, Iosias Logan, which was appointed Factor for Pechora, and my selfe with two more, went to Olena, and stayed there all the fiue and twentieth, being Saturday, where wee found a ship of Yarmouth, whereof Iames Wright of Hull was Master, of whom we learned [ 10] the proceeding of the Hollanders.

The seuenth of Iune, in the morning we had sight of the Coast of Lappia, a little short of Cape Comfort, and met with a ship of Amsterdam,* 1.5 by which we sent Letters to Master Iohn Mericke our English Agent, then Resident in Colmogro; and we had two Hogsheads of Beere of them.

The eight, we plyed to Cape Comfort, the wind at South-east.

The ninth being Sunday, in the morning wee put off from the Coast of Lappia, to crosse ouer the White Sea, to the Cape of Callinos corruptly, and commonly called Candinos. At noone we passed through some Ice, the weather being thicke and foggie.

The eleuenth, we plyed to the Cape of Callinos, passing through much Ice, the wind at North North-east. And therefore wee thought it better to goe to the Southward againe:* 1.6 and in the [ 20] Eeuening we came to an Anchor in ten fathomes. This night wee had a sore storme; the winde at North-east.

The twelfth, in the morning we weighed, and in weighing brake our Anchor: and then wee stood to the Southward, and came to an Anchor; and at night wee went on shoare for Wood,* 1.7 and Water, where was good store of Drift Wood: And within a ledge of Rockes on the West∣side of Callinos there lay ten Lodias or Russe small shippes, some fourteene or fifteene Tunnes the biggest (of a Towne called Pinega) all which were bound for Noua Zembla, to kill the Morsse: with the men of which Fleete wee had some conference, and did see their Prouisions: which were Launces of their fashion, and Harping Irons; their Victuals were Salt-fish, Butter, Bacon, Meale, their Drinke Quasse.

[ 30] The sixteenth, in the morning wee weighed and stood our course for the Ile of Colgoiene, the wind being at South South-west, and did find the Ice that was close to the shoare to bee open: but at night finding that we could not sayle our course for the Ice, we thought it better to stay, and so came to an Anchor.

The seuenteenth, wee weighed in the morning, and stood along the shoare, which did lye South-east by East, and North-west by West. And in the after-noone, wee went on shoare with our shallop, and came to a Riuer, which we called Hakluyts Riuer, where wee did see cer∣tayne Samoieds, with their Deere: but when they perceiued vs, they fled into the Land, carrying with them such things as in haste they could get together: but left most of their necessaries, as Bowes, Arrowes, long Speares, wanting Iron heads burnt at the end, Harping Irons, Wimbles, [ 40] and Morsse-skinnes, lying hid, some in one place, some in another: which wee caused our men to vncouer, and would not suffer them to take any thing away; only I tooke the Pizzell of a Morsse which they had lately killed; and Iosias Logan left a Knife, that they might not shunne vs hereafter. The same Eeuening we anchored and stayed all night.

The eighteenth, wee weighed, and at noone wee came to an Harbour; which, as wee thinke,* 1.8 was the very same where Master Stephen Burrow was in his Discouerie of Vaigatz, and Noua Zembla, 1556. where there is twelue, or thirteene foot at high water vpon the Barre, and within six or seuen fathomes. Also in this place were three Lodias of Pinega, which when they saw vs come in, rowed out, and at night returned, and some of their men came aboord of vs,* 1.9 and told vs that they could not passe for Ice; and said, that they were bound for Sharskai Gooba, or [ 50] Shar Bay to fish for certayne fishes; which they call Omilie, which are somewhat like a Shad, and for Morsses.

The twentieth, Iosias Logan and my selfe went ouer to the Mayne, which was distant two leagues, and came to a great Riuer in 67. degrees and 40. minutes, where there had beene peo∣ple: and there we saw foure or fiue great white fishes swimming,* 1.10 which are foure or fiue yards long, and called by the Russes Belluga, whereof they make Oyle, whereof afterward we found at Pechora, great store to be spoyled.

The one and twentieth, we sent our men for Wood,* 1.11 for there was good store of Flote-wood as we had found all the Coast along; but none growing.

The two and twentieth, in the morning we came ouer the Barre, the winde at South South-east, [ 60] directing our course for the Ile of Colgiene; and at noone wee passed through much Ice, which lay so thicke that wee could not sayle, but tooke in our sayles, and made fast our ship to a piece of Ice.

The three and twentieth, in the morning wee set sayle, and plyed to the Wind-ward, the wind at South-east, with raine: and at night wee mored to a Cake of Ice.

The foure and twentieth, in the morning we set sayle, and pyled to wind-ward, the wind at South-west to get cleere of the Ice; and at noone we obserued and found our selues to bee in 67. degrees 12. minutes, and in the after-noone we had sight of the Land againe, being foure leagues to the Southwards of the aforesaid Harbour; and finding the Tyde to set very sore vpon the shoare to the Westward,* 1.12 we stood to the Eastward, bearing through the Ice, and at twelue at night wee mored to a piece of Ice.

The fiue and twentieth, we loosed and sayled to the Eastward, till we found the Ice so thick, that we could not passe further: then we made fast to a piece of Ice: the wind at North North-east, thicke fogge, and some raine. The six and twentieth, we set our fore top-sayle, the wind at North North-east, blowing hard and thicke fogge: we stood sometimes one way, sometimes another, as we could find the Ice open; and at noone we had sight of the shoare, being foure or [ 10] fiue leagues off, and the Ice lying so thicke, that we could make no meanes to get farther from the shoare: wherefore wee made fast to a great Cake of Ice. The seuen and twentieth, wee lay still, the Ice lying very close, with thicke foggie weather: the wind at North North-west.

The eight and twentieth, in the morning it was cleere, and the Land did beare North by West seuen leagues off, and then we set sayle, passing to the Eastward till noone: then we made fast to a piece of Ice, it being very foggie: the wind at West North-west. And the same day at eight in the after-noone wee loosed from the Ice, it being cleere, the wind at North-west. And at mid-night we got cleere of the Ice, keeping our course East North-east.

* 1.13The nine and twentieth, at eight in the morning, we had sight of Cape Swetinos, the winde [ 20] at North North-west, with thicke foggie weather: At noone, finding the Ice to lye close to the shoare,* 1.14 we cast about to the Westward. And at eight in the Eeuening, wee came to an Anchor in tenne fathomes; and then I went on shoare, where there were two Russian Crosses: the Land was smooth, and full of fresh Ponds, being a kind of white Chalke Cliffes. At our comming a∣boord, we weighed and stood neerer to the shoare because of the Ice.

The thirtieth, in the morning the Ice came so extreamely vpon vs, that we could not weigh; for our men being cast from the Capstan, our Cable brake, and so wee lost an Anchor. Then seeing wee could not passe to the Eastward,* 1.15 wee stood to the Westward of Cape Swetinos, into the afore-said deepe Bay in seuen fathomes: the wind at East North-east, cleere weather.

The first of Iuly, we went on shoare to see if there were any thing to take notice of: but wee [ 30] found nothing worth the going. For only we saw a wild Deere, and an House of Wood after the Russe fashion, where people had beene. The second, likewise we rode still, and going againe on shoare we did see the Ice all gone to the Eastward; and so came aboord. The third, at sixe in the morning we weighed, the wind at East North-east, and plyed through some Ice: and at foure in the after-noone we got cleere of it: and at eight of the clocke wee came to an Anchor, it being calme and cleere weather: then I went on shoare, where we were first; and came aboord because of the great abundance of Muskitos or Gnats.* 1.16 At our comming hauing the winde at South-west, we set sayle and stood along the shoare.

The fourth, we sayled along the shoare with faire weather, hauing the winde variable. The fifth, wee plyed to the Eastward, wind at North-east by East faire weather. The sixth, wee [ 40] plyed along the shoare, the wind at North by East. And in the after-noone wee passed through much Ice. The seuenth, we plyed through the Ice to the Eastward, the winde at East North-east, thicke and foggie. The eight, with cleere weather, the winde at North North-east, we plyed to the Eastward; and at noone obserued the Sunne hauing 69. degrees 40. minutes: At Eeuening we had sight of the Land to the Eastward of the Riuer of Pechora; and thinking to get into the shoare we could not for the shoald water.

The ninth, in the morning we stood backe to find the Barre or entrance of the Riuer of Pe∣chora.* 1.17 And in the after-noone, seeing the Sand ouer the Ice, which was not broken off from the shoare, I went thither with my shallop, and going on shoare, we espyed three Crosses, and cer∣tayne Russes walking vpon the S••nd; who told vs, that that was the place that we desired: and [ 50] one of them came aboord our ship to bring vs ouer the Barre. But comming to shoald water, wee durst not trust his skill, but stood backe againe, and came to an Anchor in foure fathomes.

The tenth, in the morning I went to found the Barre; where we had eleuen and tenne, and in one place but nine foot water. And comming aboord wee set sayle to come in. And in going o∣uer the Barre we were on ground; but, God be thanked, wee got well ouer, and came to an An∣chor in six fathomes.

The eleuenth, the Ice brake off from the shoare, and came so fast vpon vs, that we could not shift from it, but were put on ground vpon a Sand; yet God be thanked without any harme. The same day leauing our ship lying so, Iosias Logan our Factor, my selfe, William Pursgl••ue, being rowed in our Skiffe by six of our Mariners, tooke our way toward the Towne ouer a shoald Sea, which the [ 60] Russes cal, The Dry Sea: which may very wel be so called. For on the starboord or West side going vp is a low dry Sand, and on the Larboord or East side is all shoald water, as two, three, or foure foote water. And seuen leagues within to the South-west is an Iland called Dolgoi, that is to say, The long Iland, which you must keep on the Larboord or East side, & then steer away South South-west,

neere vpon twentie leagues, all in shoald water; and then you shall come to the sight of an high Land called The Boluan; which in the Russe Tongue signifieth, a Blocke:* 1.18 which you must leaue on the Larboord, or East side. And be sure to keepe the channell, which doth trend South-west, and South-west by West. By report of the Inhabitants the Riuer hath two and seuen∣tie mouthes.

The twelfth, we passed ouer the Drie Sea, (which the Russes call in their Language, Suchoi Morie,) to the mouth of the Riuer Pechora: where we found many small Ilands, some a mile, some two miles in length, and so shoald water, that wee could not get to the shoare with our Shallop, but lay in her all night at an anchor, being vncertaine which way to take: and seeing so many entrances before vs, we could hit right at none. The thirteenth,* 1.19 in the morning wee [ 10] got to an Iland, at the very mouth of the Riuer, where wee stayed all the day, hauing much wind and fogge. The fourteenth, being Sunday, we set sayle from the Iland, the Sea going very high: and at noone we came by Gods direction, into one of the chiefest entrances of the Riuer Pechora; and came to an house, where there were two and their families, who made vs the best entertaynment that they could, and gaue vs directions how to goe to the Towne.

The fifteenth, we came to a Sari or Ferme house of one of the principall men of the Towne;* 1.20 who bid vs kindly welcome: and as the place and season affoorded, hee made vs good cheere. He lay there at this time, to take Duckes, Swannes, Geese, and other Fowles: for then was the time of the yeere. Their feathers they sell, and their bodies they salt for winter prouision. He also gaue vs a man to bring vs to the Towne.

[ 20] The sixteenth, we came to the Towne of Pustozera, which standeth vpon a Lake.* 1.21 There was no Gentleman or Gouernour in the Towne at our arriuall: for he had destroyed the Castle, and fled away the last Winter. For certaine dayes wee could haue no answer, whether wee might stay or no, all the chiefe men being abroad for their Winters prouision. But the chiefe Customer Ma••phe, sending men to know their mindes, the three and twentieth day of the same moneth of Iuly, we were embraced of them, and desired to stay, and they appointed vs an house to dwell in. Furthermore, they told vs that the Riuer Pechora was more conuenient for vs, then the Riuer of Duyna: and that a great part of the goods, which come to Colmogro vpon Dwina, doe passe in one place or other by the Riuer Pechora, which, they say, runneth through Siberia; and how much farther they themselues know not. The fiue and twentieth, in the morning,* 1.22 ha∣uing [ 30] one of their Boats full with feathers, wee departed from the Towne, taking our leaues of Iosias Logan, who stayed behind.

The sixe and twentieth, we came downe to the Boluan, where wee went aboord of two Co∣ches of some fifteene tunnes a piece, bound for Mougunzea. Here I went on shoare, and bought an airie of Slight-falcons, being very young. The seuen and twentieth, in the Eeuening wee came aboord our ship, and the same night tooke in the Feathers, and laded their Boat againe with Meale, sending her vp to the Towne by the Russes that brought her downe.

The eight and twentieth, we got out our goods, which were appointed to be left at Pechora, vnder the charge of Master Logan, and made ready our ship. The nine and twentieth, wee [ 40] weighed anchor, and fell lower downe, the wind North North-east. The thirtieth, wee rode still, and in the after-noone two Lodias that were fishing for Omulais, went out to Sea, the wind at North-west by West. The one and thirtieth, the wind being at West North-west,* 1.23 there came in foure and twentie sayles of Lodias or Coches, all bound for Mugunzea: but the yeere being farre spent they gaue ouer their Voyage, and went to the Towne of Pustozera, to winter. Out of one of the which Lodias we hired a man belonging to the Towne, to stay with William Pursgloue and Marmaduke Wilson, by our goods, till the Lodia came, which we had hired. Which two were to winter with Master Logan in the Countrey. The aforesaid foure and twentie Lo∣dias were of Colmogro, Pinega, Mezen, and Pustozera.

The first of August, the wind at West, we weighed, and, God bee thanked,* 1.24 came safely ouer the Barre of Pechora. From thence wee directed our course for Noua Zembla: and at noone [ 50] we came to Ice: where hauing sayled many points of our Compasse, at mid-night wee tooke in our sayles, and made fast to a piece of Ice; the weather being very thicke and foggie. The se∣cond being very cleere, and seeing no way to passe to the Northward for Ice, we determined to return; and because the yeere was so farre spent to go for Cherie Iland, to see if it pleased God to giue vs there any good successe, for the bearing of the charges of this Voyage. So wee loosed, and at eight in the Eeuening wee got cleere off the Ice, keeping our course by the edge of it, which did lie East by North, and East North-east. The third, at noone we had sight of Colgoiene Iland,* 1.25 and tooke the latitude, being on the North side of the Iland which was 69. degrees 20. minutes: and at night I went on shoare to see the Land, which was high clay ground: and I came where there was an airie of Slight-falcons: but they did flie all away saue one, which I tooke vp,* 1.26 and [ 60] brought aboord. This Ile of Colgoiene is but thirtie leagues from the Barre of Pechora.

The fourth, we passed through some Ice, and at noone wee got cleere off it, and stood to the Northward, Colgoiene bearing South-west sixe leagues, the wind at East North-east. The fift, we had faire weather, the wind at East South-east, wee sayled two and thirtie leagues North

North-west, we obserued, and found our selues in 70. degrees and 40. minutes. The sixt, the wind being at South South-west,* 1.27 we steered North North-west fortie leagues, and were in 72. degrees 34. minutes. The seuenth, the wind was variable, the weather faire: we steered North by West, eight and thirtie leagues, and at noone had the latitude of 74. degrees 30. minutes. And at eight in the Eeuening we sounded, and had eightie fathomes greene Oze. The eight, the wind at West, we sayled North twenty leagues: in the morning we sounded, and had seuenty fathoms Oze: and at three in the afternoone, the wind comming North, wee cast about to the Westward.

The ninth, faire weather, we sayled thirteene leagues West, the wind at North. At noone we sounded, and had an hundred and twentie fathomes, greene slime. The tenth, the wind va∣riable, [ 10] with fogge and raine: wee steered West North-west fiue and twentie leagues: and at noone we obserued,* 1.28 and had the latitude of 74. degrees 57. minutes. The eleuenth, was thicke foggie weather; wee sayled foure and twentie leagues West: and at eight in the Eeuening wee sounded, and had ninety fathomes, soft Oze. The thirteenth, at noone wee had sight of Cherie Iland,* 1.29 being within a mile of it, before we did see it: and the same Eeuening wee got into the Coue, and mored our ship. Here we stayed twelue dayes, taking what it pleased God to send, which was but little.

The sixe and twentieth of August, we left the Iland, because the time of the yeere was farre spent, and returned for England, where (blessed be God) we safely arriued in Saint Catharines Poole, in the Riuer of Thames, on Saturday being Saint Matthews day, and the one and twen∣tieth [ 20] of September, 1611.

* 1.30There were in the Hauen of the Riuer Pechora, at our being there, about thirtie Lodias, or small Russe ships, hauing ten, twelue, fourteene, and sixteene men in each of them: which purposed to haue gone, some to Noua Zembla, some to Tasse gorodoc, and some to other places in Mougumsey, to the East of the Riuer Ob. These Lodias for the most part, were of Vstiug, Col∣mogro, Pinega, Mezen, and Pechora.

* 1.31Also, we that went vp to the Towne, found about fiftie Cayucks, or Boats of foure, fiue, six, and seuen tunnes a piece, fishing in the Riuer of Pechora for Salmons, and other kinds of fish; most of which Cayucks come from the great Towne of Vstiug, and the Townes thereunto ad∣ioyning, by the Riuer Iug, through the Land into the Riuer Pechora, and at the Boluan, at the Ri∣uers [ 30] mouth they tooke most part of their Salmon.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Cherie Iland.
• * 1.2

  Ionas Poole.
• * 1.3

  Six Biscainers. Crosse Road.
• * 1.4

  May. Bigs Hole. Kildin in Lappia Olena.
• * 1.5

  Iune. Cape Comfort. A ship of Am∣sterdam.
• * 1.6

  Callinos.
• * 1.7

  They goe on shoare.

  Ten Lodias of Pinega bound for Noua Zem∣bla.
• * 1.8

  A good Har∣bour.

  Stephen Burrow
• * 1.9

  Three Lodias of Pinega.

  Sharkai Gooba, which is the great Bay of Hayuburi.
• * 1.10

  They land the third time.

  A great Riuer.
• * 1.11

  Flote-wood.
• * 1.12

  A sore tyde vp∣on the shoare.
• * 1.13

  Cape Swetinos.
• * 1.14

  William Gour∣dan goeth on shoare.

  Two Russe Crosses.
• * 1.15

  A deepe Bay Westward of Cape Swetinos They goe on Land againe. An house of Wood.
• * 1.16

  They goe on Land the sixth time.

  A••undance of Muskitos.
• * 1.17

  Crosses found and cer••ayne Russes at the mouth of Pe∣chora.

  The depth of the B••••re of the Riuer of Pechora.

  They passe o∣uer the Barre, and ride in six fathoms w••ter. They ••oe vp the Riuer of Pechora, ouer The D••y Sea. D••lgoi is seuen leagues vp from the Barre
• * 1.18

  The Boluan, or East head land of the Riuer Pechora.

  The channell trendeth South-west.
• * 1.19

  An Iland neere the mouth of the Riuer.

  They find one of the chiefest entrances of the Riuer.
• * 1.20

  They come to a Ferme house of a principall man of the Towne.
• * 1.21

  The Towne is called Pusto∣zera.
• * 1.22

  Pechora run∣neth through Siberia, and far∣ther.

  Two Coches or Lodias, bound for Mougunzea. He buyeth two Falcons.

  The stocke of goods left in Pustozera.
• * 1.23

  24. Lodias bound for Mu∣gunzea, which is to the East∣ward of Ob.
• * 1.24

  They safely passe the Barre of Pechora.
• * 1.25

  Colgoien•• Iland 69. degrees. 20. minutes.
• * 1.26

  Falcons.
• * 1.27

  70 degrees 40. minutes.

  72. degrees 34 minutes.

  74. degrees 30. minutes.
• * 1.28

  74. degrees 57. minutes.
• * 1.29

  They arriue at Cherie Iland.
• * 1.30

  30. Lodias.
• * 1.31

  50. Cayucks or fishing Boats, haun••ing the Riuer Pechora.