Voyages and travels over all Europe Containing all that is most curious in that part of the world. In eight tomes. Done out of French.

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Title
Voyages and travels over all Europe Containing all that is most curious in that part of the world. In eight tomes. Done out of French.
Author
Fer, Nicolas de, 1646-1720.
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London :: Printed for H. Rhodes next Bride-Lane in Fleetstreet, and J. Harris at the Harrow in the Poultry,
1693[-1694].
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Voyages and travels -- Early works to 1800.
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http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A70100.0001.001
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"Voyages and travels over all Europe Containing all that is most curious in that part of the world. In eight tomes. Done out of French." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A70100.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed April 27, 2025.

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Historical Voyages & Travels OVER EUROPE. (Book 1)

CHAP. I. Of Europe in general.

THE World is usually di∣vided into four Parts; that is to say, Asia, Africa, Ame∣rica and Europe. This last is the smallest of all; but without con∣tradiction the most considerable, in re∣gard it is most Populous, most Fertile, and under the most noble and best or∣der'd Forms of Government. The Bounds of it to the North, are the Nor∣thern, or the Frozen Sea; to the West the Atlantick Ocean; the Mediterra∣nean,

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to the South, which separates it from Africa; and to the East, the Aegean Sea, the Streight of Gallipoli, the Sea of Marmara, the Streight of Con∣stantinople, the Black Sea, the Palus Maeotis, the Tanais, &c. which part it from Asia.

The Length of it from Cape St. Vin∣cents in the Western part of Spain, to the mouth of the River Ob, in the Frontiers of Muscovy, is about thir∣teen hundred Leagues.

Moreover there are always said to be in Europe, besides the Territories of the Church in Italy, two Empires, that of Germany, and that of Turky; seven Kingdoms under different Soveraigns who acknowledge no Superior; France, Spain, England, Portugal, Sweden, Den∣mark and Poland. The first six Heredi∣tary, the latter Elective. There are now nine Electorates, Mayence, Treves, Cologne, Bohemia, Bavaria, Saxony, Bran∣denburgh, the Palatinate, and Hanover; which are all Soveraign States under the Titles of Dukedoms, Marquisates, &c. We have also in Europe two Great Dukedomes, Muscovy and Tuscany. Six other Dukedoms, besides those which are enclos'd within the Empire; viz.

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Lorrain, Savoy, Mantoua, Modena, Par∣ma and Curland. Seven Republicks; viz. The United Provinces, otherwise call'd Holland, Switzerland, Venice, Ge∣noa, Luca, St. Marin, and Ragusa. And besides all this there is the Arch-Duke∣dom of Austria, the Patrimony of the Em∣pire, who also possesses Bohemia and Hungary. As for the Principalities of Transylvania, Moldavia, and Walachia, they are possess'd by particular Princes who are tributary either to the Empe∣ror or the Grand Signior, and some∣times to both together.

The Principal Islands of Europe are England united to Scotland, Ireland, Ma∣jorca, Minorca, Sicily, Sardignia, Cor∣fu, Creet, and an infinite number of others in the Archipelago. And the Highest Mountains are in France, the Pyreneans and the Alpes; La Sierra Mo∣rena in Spain; the Apennine in Italy; Parnassus in Greece; the Crapack in Po∣land; the Rhipheans in Muscovy; and Mont Gibel in Sicily.

This part of the World is water'd with an infinite number of fair Streams and vast Rivers, which contribute not a little to the Fertility of it. The most considerable are the Seine, the Loire, the

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Garonne, the Rhone in France; the Duero, the Tagus, the Guadiana, the Guadal∣quivir, the Ebro in Spain; the Po and Tibur in Italy; the Danaw, the Rhine, the Elbe, the Order in Germany; the Vistula and Niepor in Poland; the Volga, and Don, in Muscovy; the Thames, Severn and Trent in England, the Tay in Scot∣land, and the Shanon in Ireland.

CHAP. II. Of France in general.

FRance is to Europe, as Europe is to all the other parts of the World, for number of Inhabitants, for the In∣genuity of the People, the Fertility of the Soil, the Temper of the Climate, and the Excellency of the Wine. The Government is Monarchical, but too severely Absolute, tho the Nobility are brave and Warlike. This Kingdom is seated between the forty second and fifty first degree of Latitude, and the fifteenth and nineteenth of Longitude. It is bounded to the West by the Great Ocean; to the East, by the Rhine and the Alpes, that separate it

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from Germany and Italy; to the South, by the Mediterranean Sea, and the Pyreneans that divide it from Spain; and to the North by St. Georges-Channel, which the French call La Manche, that parts it from England. But these Bounds have not hinder'd the Kings from fre∣quently extending their Dominions beyond these Limits, and without searching past Ages for Examples, no body can be ignorant that in our days neither the Rhine, the Alpes, nor the Pyreneans could stop the Rapidness of the Conquests of Lewis the XIV.

France is about two hundred and sixty Leagues in length, if we take it from the Coasts of Britany, to the Frontiers of Switzerland, and two hun∣dred and forty in breadth from Dun∣kirk ro Perpignan

The Kingdom is compos'd of Three Estates, the Clergy, the Nobility and the People. In 1614. the States Ge∣neral of the Kingdom being summon'd to meet at Paris, appear'd there under Twelve great Governments; which are Picardy, Normandy, Champagne, the Island of France, Britany, Orleanois, Burgogne, Lionois, the Dauphinate, Pro∣vence, Languedoc and Guienne; and

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under these Governments are compre∣hended Le Maine, Anjou, Tourain, Poi∣ctou Xaintoin, Perigort, Limozin, Querci, Rovergne, Auvergne, Gevodan, Albigeois, Bearne, Bigorre, Foix, Cominges, Armag∣nac, Vivarez, Le Forest, Beaugelois, Bu∣geay, Valcomay, La Bresse, Nivernois, Bourbonnois, Berri, Salogne, Gatinois, Beauce, &c.

All this shews us that France must needs be a very Potent Kingdom, since it includes so great a number of Fair Provinces; some of which contain more Cities, Burroughs and Villages then many Soveraign Kingdoms and Principalities. But if you add to these the Conquests of Lewis the XIII and XIV, you will find the Limits of this Kingdom to be of a much larger Ex∣tent, since those two Monarchs sub∣du'd Franche Contè, Lorraine, Alsatia, Artois, part of Flanders, Hainault, Luxemburgh, &c.

France, which was known to the Ancients under the name of Gaul, is a Hereditary Kingdom, the Crown of which cannot descend to the Female Sex, by vertue of the Salique Law. It always belongs to the Eldest Son and for want of Male Issue to the next of

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Kin. France has beheld upon the Throne Kings of three Races. The first was that of Meroveus; the second, that of Charlemaigne; and the third that of Hugh Capet. Pharamond was the first King of France: He began to Reign in the year 400 of our Salvation; and Clovis who was the Fifth King of this Monarchy, was the first who embrac'd Christianity in 499 being baptiz'd by St. Remi, Bishop of Rheims; and ever since that time it was that our Kings have born the Title of Most Christian King, and Eldest Son of the Church which no other Potentate disputes with 'em.

As to the Humour of the French, they are lookt upon to have a quick and penetrating Wit, to be civil, jolly, and generous, but the most inconstant and most impatient in Europe.

There are reckon'd to be in France Eight Arch-Bishopricks, which have under their Jurisdiction a hundred and eleven Bishopricks; that is to say, as far as I can remember, Paris, Lim, Rouen-Tours, Reims, Sens, Cambray, Bourges, Bourdeaux, Auch, Vienne, Ambrun, Tou∣louse, Narbonne, Aix, Arles, Avignon, and Treves, which have under 'em a hun∣dred twenty five Suffragans. Fourteen

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Parliaments or Soveraign Courts; viz. Paris, Toulouse, Grenoble, Bourdeaux, Dijon, Rouen, Aix, Rennes, Pau, Metz, Tournay, Perpignan, Besanson and Cham∣beri.

Besides an infinite number of Col∣ledges, with which all the Cities of France are provided for the Education of Youth, there are sixteen famous Universities; viz▪ that of Paris, Toulouse, Montpellier, Orleans, Angers, Poictiers, Caen, Bourdeaux, Bourges, Cahors, Nantes, Rheims, Valence, Aix, Avignon and Orange.

This is all I have to say of France in general: I now come to the Remarks which I have made in my Travels, be∣ginning with Provence, which is one of the Extream parts of the Kingdom.

CHAP. III. Of Provence.

GEographers usually divide this Province into the Upper and Lower Provence: The Upper is very Mountainous and Barren: But to re∣compence

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compence that defect, the Lower may be lookt upon as a Terrestrial Para∣dise. And did not Sacred History in∣form us of the Rivers Phison, Gehon, and Euphrates, that environ'd the Garden of Eden, which God gave to our First Parent Adam, we might have just reason to believe that the Paradise of all Delights was in Lower Provence. The Air is so mild and temperate, and the Soil so fertile, that it produces Corn in abundance, Wine, Oyl, Silk, together with great variety of Excel∣lent Fruits; and in the depth of Win∣ter, you may without any trouble find Oranges, Jelsomines, Roses and Violets in Flower.

The Provencials are generally ac∣counted a more rude and clownish sort of People then they who inhabit the Neighbouring Provinces. Perhaps their nearness to the Sea, and the resort of all sorts of Nations that come thither for the sake of Trade, may not a little contribute to it. But the Women are merry and jocund, and have excellent Voices.

Aix is the Capital City of the Pro∣vince, large and fair; the Houses are built after the Modern Fashion, and

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those that stand next the Court are like so many Palaces. It is the Seat of the Parliament of Provence, and of an Arch-Bishoprick, a Chamber of Ac∣counts, a Court of Aids, a Mint, and a Generality. There is also in it an Uni∣versity for Law and Physick, founded by H. the IV. The Churches are very beautiful, and the Curious fail not to examin the Font of Baptism in that of St. Saviour, supported by eight Marble Columns, upon which 'tis said that in Old Time they sacrific'd to Baal. In the Church of the Carmelites is to be seen the Sepulchre of Renatus, King of Jerusalem.

Some Leagues from Aix stands a Burrough call'd Sallon, where Nostre Damus, so famous for his Predictions, was born, and interr'd in the Church of the Franciscan Grey-Fryers; his Tomb being half within the Church, and half without: Which has given an occasion for some people to say, that it was so contriv'd, because it was not known whether he were a Prophet or a Con∣jurer: But the Monk that shew'd it us, told us, that Nostre Damus himself had order'd it to be erected after that manner: For that finding the World to

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be so corrupt as it is, he was desirous to leave it in a singular manner. For that having rais'd his Tomb to Man's height, he caus'd himself to be enclos'd therein while he was living, after he had made provision of Oyl for his Lamp, Pens, Ink and Paper, and pro∣nounc'd a Curse upon him that should open it before such a time; which by the Calculation of the Fryer, was to expire at the beginning of the eigh∣teenth Age.

And upon my saying to the Fryer, that by the Epitaph which appear'd up∣on his Tomb, it did not appear that he was enterr'd alive, but that he di'd the first of July 1566. in the 62th year of his Age; the Monk repli'd, that from that day he was dead to the World, and that in engraving the Epitaph, they had follow'd his directions; all which was to be justifi'd by the Registers of the Convent; and that he would have part of his Tomb to be in the Street, to let the World know the remaining part of Human Life, which perhaps he employ'd in pious works. For my part, I had much ado to believe the Monk, but that the respect which is owing to his Character perswaded me that he

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would not suffer an Impostor to escape his Lips. However it were, I cannot tell whether honest Nostre Damus re∣pented or no, but I am sure he was in an ill condition, if he let his Lamp go out, before he had finish'd what he had to write.

Beaucaire is a City seated upon the Banks of the Rhone, famous for the Fair which is there held the 22d of July, which draws to it all the Nations of Europe, and Immense Wealth.

On the other side of the River is to be seen the City of Tarascon, where Renatus King of Jerusalem and Sicily built a very fair Castle. Some years ago a certain person digging a Vault in his Cellar, found a Wall with an Iron Gate, which he caus'd to be open'd, and then discover'd a hollow passage, from whence he heard a most dreadful Noise, so terrible indeed, that he durst not satisfie his Curiosity any farther. However, the Magistrates of the City being inform'd of it, were resolv'd to know what it was. To which purpose they proffer'd a condemn'd person his Life, if he would but go and take a view of that Subterraneal Gallery.

This man being fortifi'd with every

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thing which he thought necessary to in∣fuse a confidence into him, enter'd in. But before he got five and twenty or thirty paces, he return'd like a man hard out of his senses, crying out, That they might hang him if they pleas'd, for he would not die a Death which he did not understand. He told 'em he heard a most dreadful Noise, which grew louder and louder the farther he went. After they had given him time till the next day to recover himself, they offer'd him new favours, and some Money if he would go to the End of the Gallery. That allurement made him resolve to scorn all dangers, and having recover'd fresh strength, he went to the Bottom, where he found ano∣ther Iron Gate, at which he knockt, as he said, but no body answer'd; he added also, that the roaring Noise con∣tinu'd for half the way, and seem'd to be over his Head.

This Rehearsal augmented the Cu∣riosity of the Magistrates of Tarascon, and oblig'd 'em to send Work-men to force open the Gate; but unwilling∣ness or fears over-mastering their Obe∣dience and Duty, there were none re∣solute enough to be found: for they

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lookt upon the last Gate to be certain∣ly the Gate which led to Hell. How∣ever, the Magistrates found an Expe∣dient to gain their good wills, per∣swading 'em that there was some vast Treasure hid there, and that if they found it to be really so, they would give 'em the twenty fifth part of it. Upon that, they found Work-men more than enow, and the Gate being soon open'd, they as soon discover'd that the hollow way led to Beaucaire, that it was a Subterranean Communi∣cation between one City and the other, and that the Noise was nothing but the Rapidness of the Rhone, which rolling the Stones along with it, caus'd that hideous rumbling in the Vault. Since which time, 'tis a common saying among the Bricklayers of Tarascon, That the Twenty fifth part of Beaucaire belongs to them.

Arles, formerly the Capital of a Kingdom, is seated also upon the Banks of the Rhone, drawing towards the Sea. People say, the Air is not so whole∣som there, and that there is a passage from thence under Ground to Nimes, but I could never find any certainty in that report. There are to be seen in

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this City two Porticoes of an admirable Structure, an Amphitheater and an Obelisque, built by the Romans, and the Sepulchre of Rowland, Nephew to Charlemaine. There is also in the Town-house a Marble Statue of Diana, which Goddess had formerly a Temple in an Island of the Rhone a little below the City. Travellers that delight in viewing Ancient Tombs, may find a great number near Arles. For 'tis said, that the Pagans call'd these parts the Elysian Fields, and that they who inhabited along the River from Arles to Lyons, desirous that their Bodies should be there buri'd, they ty'd 'em to Planks, with Money sufficient for their Enterment, and put 'em into the Water, verily believing that the Stream would carry 'em to the Elysian Fields, without going any farther.

They also shew'd me the house where Eight Children, all Twins were born at one Birth, which the Mother would needs have thrown into the River all but the Ninth. And they farther told me, 'twas through the Judgment of God that this Woman had so many Children at a time, because she had tax'd a Beggar-woman of unchastness

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for having Three at one Delivery, who thereupon wisht, if she were not a Whore, that her Accuser might have as many as a Sow barrows Piggs at once. Let the Story be true or false, certain it is, that 'tis not only in these parts where such Prodigies are pretend∣ed to have happen'd; for I have seen in Holland the Castle of a Lady, who is reported to have been brought to Bed at one time of as many Children as there are days in the year. St. Maximin is a little City in the Neighbourhood of Aix, remarkable for the Holy Vial, which is there kept, and which draws Pilgrims to it from all parts of Europe. They pretend that in this Holy Vial there is the Blood and Water which issued from our Saviour's side, which by a Miracle, moves every Good Friday from Eleven a Clock till high Noon.

In the year 1679. I was there upon the same day, and what I happen'd to observe was this. They carri'd us up into a Gallery guarded by six Halber∣deers, as well to prevent disorder as for the security of their pretious Re∣lique. In the midst of the Gallery in a kind of by-corner we found a Jaco∣bin Frier holding the sacred Vial in

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his hand; Which is a Vial much in the Form of our Hour Glasses of Sand, in which you may perceive a Liquor as clear as Rock-water, with a little black Moat that danced up and down in the Viol, and which sometimes inclining to fall down to the Bottom, some∣times mounted up all of a sudden to the Top.

This Devotion draws great Profit to the Convent; So that the Inhabitants of the place would never care how of∣ten the Miracle happen'd. There is also in the same Church the Head of Mary Magdalen in a Golden Shrine, and her Body in another.

From thence we mounted for four Hours together, that we might get to St. Baume, through a dreadful Desert. In this place they say it was, that Mary Magdalen did Pennance, and there is to be seen in a Grotto where the Rock-water distills from all parts, one little place dry, which was the Place where Magdalen lay. There is in this Nook a small Convent of Jacobins, with one only Inn belonging to it, where were above four thousand Persons in all, ve∣ry ill accommodated. The next day we ascended above the Clouds; at least

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when we were at St. Piton, we saw the Clouds thicken and gather together under us. This is the Place, as the Tradition goes, where the Angels brought Penitent Magdalen her Victu∣als. Afterwards we travell'd through a continual Desert to Toulton; For we went above eight Leagues before we met with one House, or a drop of Wa∣ter to drink.

Toulton is a very fair City seated up∣on the shoar of the Mediterranean Sea: It has a good Haven, where the Kings biggest Men of War ride secure from the injuries of the Weather or the At∣tempts of an Enemy. Henry IV. for∣tifi'd it with Walls, for the security of the Port and the Arsenal, which is the chiefest the French have upon that Sea.

Marseilles is another Sea Port, which is held to be the safest in all Europe. The City is very antient; as having been built six hundred thirty three years before the Birth of Christ: and 'tis the usual place where the Kings Galleys, which are very numerous, ride. This Haven is defended by the Fortress of our Lady of the Guard; by two Citadels at the entrance into the Port,

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which is barr'd up with a huge chain; and there are there Forts in the little Islands a league from the City which secure the Road. They are call'd the Fort of St. John, Le Rattoneau, and the Castle Dif, furnish'd with good Garrisons, and with all things necessa∣ry for their Defence. This last Castle is remarkable for this, that 'tis the Place where they shut up Youths of Good Houses, that vex their Superiors by their Exorbitant Debaucheries and Leud behaviour; and where they are kept so long as is thought convenient with a moderate allowance.

The City it self is very Beautiful and without all contradiction the most weal∣thy in the Province, by reason of the Haven, by which means it has all the Trade of the Levant, Italy, Spain and Africa to it self. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Lazarus, in memory of this, that the Persecutors of the Primitive Church, having put Lazarus together with Mary Magdalen and Mar∣tha his Sisters, into a Vessel without Sails and Seamen, and exposing it in that manner to the Merciless Waves, the Vessel after it had been toss'd to and fro for some time by the raging

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Billows, was by Providence guided in∣to the Port of Marseilles, where Laza∣rus having preach'd the Gospel was made Bishop of the place, and di'd there.

The Slaves at Marseilles, all the length of the Port, keep Barbers Shops and Fripperies, like those up∣on Pont Neuf at Paris, where they sell all manner of Linnen Cloaths, Breeches, and other necessary Furniture at second Hand. They who have this leave, are chain'd there in the Morning, and know what they must give a day to their Of∣ficers. There are others that make up together Companies of Fidlers, noises of Trumpets, Hautboys and other In∣struments, who being all chain'd toge∣ther and attended by a Souldier, go about from Tavern to Tavern, and House to House, to play to those that will give 'em any thing.

There is in the Convent of the Obser∣vance, the Head of one called Borduni, the son of a Notary Publick of Mar∣seilles which is of a Prodigious bigness. For, tho the Man, who liv'd at the beginning of this Age, were not above four foot high, his Head takes up the fourth part of that heighth, and three

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foot in compass at the sides. He had so little wit, tho his Head were full of Brains, that he gave occasion to the Proverb, when you would talk of a Man that wanted sence, He has no more wit then Borduni.

When you go out of the City, it looks as if you were entring into Su∣burbs that are near two Leagues in ex∣tent. For that in the parts adjoining to Marseilles, there are above six thou∣sand Country Houses, which the Pro∣vensals call Bastades, and which stand so near one to another, that many times there is hardly a Garden between 'em. This is a very great Ornament to the out parts of the City, and of great Benefit, when the Town is af∣flicted with the Pestilence; there be∣ing few of the Burgesses but who have one of those Bastades: for they are still in fear lest some Vessel or other should bring that spreading Contagion among 'em. Which is the reason that they are to observe an exact Quarantan un∣der the Cannon of the Castle Dif, and those other Fortresses which I have mention'd.

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They are excellent Artists at Mar∣seilles for working in Corral, and you meet there with that which is extraor∣dinary for the whiteness of it.

CHAP. IV. Of the County of Venaissin, and the Prin∣cipality of Orange.

THE County of Venaissin is a little Province enclos'd between Pro∣vence and the Dauphinate, the Capital City of which is Avignon, which is seated upon the Banks of the Rhone, surrounded with the most Beautiful Walls in Europe. It has been frequent∣ly the residence of the Roman Pontiffs, and that suffices to convince the Rea∣der that it must needs be stor'd with beautiful Edifices both Sacred and Pro∣phane. The Popes are also still in pos∣session of it to this day, and send a Le∣gate thither; and it was thus that the Holy See came to have a Title to it.

Pope Clement the sixth, taking ad∣vantage of the necessity to which the Princess Joane, Daughter of Charles II. Count of Provence, to whom Avignon

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with all dependencies belong'd, had re∣duc'd her self, purchas'd this City of her for forty eight Thousand Livres, Money of France. The Contract of Sale was passed the 19th of June 1348. and History reports that the Money was never paid. However it were, the Princess was a Minor at the time of the Sale, and besides that, she could not alienate her Demeans, there being Laws that expresly ordain'd the con∣trary. So that this Sale was indeed no more than a Mortgage. Thereupon the Parliament of Provence reunited the City of Avignon, and the whole Coun∣ty of Venaissin to the Crown. Which shews that the Holy See enjoys it onely by the liberality of the Kings of France; neither is this the onely nor the most considerable benefit which Rome has re∣ceiv'd from the French Crown.

There is a Jewish Synagogue at Avig∣non very nasty and out of Order; and though they are bound to hear a Frier Preach every week; they are so obsti∣nate in their Judaism, that there are very few that embrace Christianity. They all wear yellow Hats, to distin∣guish 'em from Christians.

Avignon had formerly a stately Bridge

Page 24

over the Rhone, but the rapidness of the Stream has carried away a good part of it. The Pope keeps an Italian Gar∣rison in it, and they keep a Guard as exact there as in the expos'd Frontier Towns in Time of War. They are not contented to examine all strangers that come into the Town, to know where they lodge, and to direct peo∣ple that are not acquainted with the Town what Inns to go to, but in the Night time they visit all those parts where the new comers lodge, and tell how many persons lye in every Bed, which sometimes surprizes those that are ignorant of the Custom.

The University of Avignon, found∣ed in 1391. was formerly more famous then now it is. I shall not undertake to describe all the Tombs and Reliques that are to be seen in most parts of the Churches; which would carry me too far. Nor have I seen any thing there more remarkable then the Fountain of Daucluse, which dividing it self about ten or twelve paces from the source of it, forms a most delightful Island and a Navigable River. There, are al∣so to be seen the Houses of Petrach and Laura his Mistress.

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Orange is the Capital of a little Pro∣vince of the same name, not above three Leagues broad and four in length. This Principality depending upon the County of Provence, fell long since to the Counts of Nassau, by the Marriage of Claudia de Chalons with Henry of Nassau.

This City had not long since a Ca∣stle belonging to it, which was lookt upon to be one of the strongest Castles in France: it had a Well digg'd into the solid Rock above thirty fathom deep, and a subterranean passage that led from the Castle to a House of Plea∣sure about half a league distant. But the Castle was raz'd and the City dis∣mantl'd about twenty years since by the King of France, out of a particular enmity to the Prince of Orange under pretence that it serv'd as a Refuge for the Protestants that were Dragoon'd out of France.

However it affords very beautiful Pieces of Antiquity, and among the rest the Circus which is very spacious, with a Pavement of Mosaick work in a low Chamber or Room of State; a Triumphal Arch Erected in Honour of Marius and Lacturius, Consuls of

Page 26

Rome after the Victory which they ob∣tain'd over the Cimbrians and Teutons. This edifice which is commonly call'd the Tower of the Arch, was formerly in the middle of the City: afterwards it came to be one of the Gates of the City; but now stands a good quarter of a League from it. Which shews that Orange was in ancient Time a very large and beautiful City. When you are at the top of this Tower, you may see all at once five Provinces of France, Provence, the Dauphinate, Languedoc, Auvergne and Forest.

Tho' this City still enjoys a Parlia∣ment, and an University for Law, Phy∣sick and Sciences, founded by Raimond V. Prince of Orange in the year 1365. it may be truely said that there is no∣thing now left, but the sad remainders of the former Grandeur and Magnifi∣cence, which formerly rendered it con∣siderable. There is only the goodness of the Soil which never alters: for it produces generally whatever is necessa∣ry for humane Life; and all the High-ways are border'd with white Mul∣berry Trees that nourish an Infinite num∣ber

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[illustration]

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of Silk-worms, which are a good part of the Wealth of the Inhabitants.

CHAP. V. Of the Dauphinate and Vivarez.

THE Dauphinate is one of the most beautiful Provinces of France: Historians speak wonders of it; and as such, they observe seven things ex∣treamly remarkable, which they call the seven Wonders of the Dauphinate; that is to say, the Tower without Poi∣son, the Inaccessible Mountain, the Burning Fountain, the Caves of Sasse∣nage; the pretious Stones of the Moun∣tain of Sassenage. The Manna of Brian∣son, and the Grove of our Lady de la Balme.

'Tis commonly divided into the Up∣per and Lower, and is bounded east∣ward by Piemont and Savoy; to the South by Provence; northward by la Bress, and to the west by the County of Venaissin. The sterility of the Moun∣tains of the Upper Dauphinate is not so bad, but that they afford great quan∣tities of Cassia, Manna, Turpentine and

Page 28

Agaric. But the Lower Dauphinate be∣stows in a bundance upon the Inhabi∣tants Wine, Corn, Silk and all sorts of Fruit. The People in general are stout, civil and courteous to Strangers: which Civility extends even to the most rustical Peasants: for it is a com∣mon thing to see a Ploughman leave his Plough to put a Stranger in the right Road, when he has lost his way.

Historians have always character'd the Dauphinois to be faithful to their King; jealous of their Liberty; some∣what given to litigious petty-fogging, and inclin'd to praise themselves. Ne∣vertheless, the learned Mr. Richelet has not done 'em all this justice in his Dictionary; perhaps because he would make the Province suffer for the injury which some Dauphinois might have done him.

This Province is not so much cele∣brated by all those Advantages which I have recounted, as for the Honour which it has of being the Title born by the Eldest Son of France and presump∣tive Heir of the Crown. They who know not why the Dauphinate enjoys this Honour before any of the Pro∣vinces

Page 29

of France, may here be inform'd in few words.

Hubert II. Soveraign Prince of the Dauphinate, having but one only Son, at that time very young, and being at his Castle of Vienne, took him in his Arms to play with him, and making a shew as if he would throw him out of the Window, the Infant being a brisk lively child, slipt out of his Hands and fell into the Rhone; nor did the un∣fortunate Father ever hear more of him. His Grief was such as is not to be imagin'd: and his despair transport∣ed him so far as to make a Donation of the Dauphinate to Philip Valois King of France, in the year 1349. upon con∣dition, among other things, that the First born Son of the Kings of France, for the time to come should be call'd Dauphins.

Grenoble is the Capital City of the Province, seated among the Mountains upon the Banks of the River Isere, which divides the City into two parts. It is the Seat of a Parliament, a Chamber of Accounts, or place for the publick Receipt of the Finances, a Generality, a Baillage, a Mint, and a Bishoprick. It is adorn'd with Magnificent Buildings,

Page 30

of which the principal are the Palace of the Duke de L'Ediguieres, the Bishops Mansion, and the Parlament House. The Prelates of this Diocess assume the Title of Prince, by reason of seve∣ral Donations of the Lords of the Coun∣try at several times.

There are some things in the Parts about Grenoble, worthy the curious ob∣servation of Travellers; chiefly the spatious Charter-house, which is usual∣ly the Residence of the General of that Order. Never was Desert better bap∣tiz'd then this Nook which those Monks have made choice of for their place of Retirement: for indeed the Mountain has something of a dreadful Aspect. But when you come to the Con∣vent, you are presently surpriz'd to meet with so goodly a Mansion, so magnificent a Church, and Monks so civil and courteous, where you thought to find nothing but Precipices and Wild Beasts.

The Order of the Chartreux was founded in 1084 by St. Bruno, who was the first General of it. The Air is very healthy, the top of the Moun∣tain Fertile; and in a word it may be said, that a Man is amply recompens'd

Page 31

for the trouble and dread in clambring up, which redoubles when you are a∣bout to quit that delightful solitude; the descent being worse then the ascent, and much more terrible.

Among the wonders that environ Grenoble, the burning Fountain is not the least considerable, which darts forth Flames through the Water a foot high; whither the young Men and Virgins go frequently to make Fri∣cassees, and fry Pancakes. Not far from thence is to be seen a Tower where no venomous Creature will live; and they which are sometimes brought thither dye presently after.

Valence is the second City of the Dau∣phinate, and much better scituated then Grenoble, as being seated on the Banks of the Rhone, and upon the High Road from Paris to Marseilles. It is adorn'd with a Bishoprick, and a Uni∣versity for Law and Physick; founded by Lewis the Dauphin, Son of Charles VII. in the year 1452. who confirm'd the Priviledges it enjoys, in the year 1475. when he came to the Crown. It is also the Seat of a Presidial-court and a Seneschalship.

There is to be seen in the Church

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of the Jacobins the Body of a Giant fifteen foot high, and seven in breadth, some of the Bones of which were car∣ri'd to Paris where they are preserv'd in the Kings Closet. There is a Foun∣tain without the City very hot in the Winter, and extreamly cold in the Summer. The principal Churches are the Cathedral dedicated to St. Apolli∣naris; St. Johns which is said to have been a Pantheon in ancient time, the Abby of St. Ruff, and St. Peters Church in the Burrough Les-valence, in which is to be seen a Cavern which 'tis said crosses under the Rhone, near to which stands a Sepulchre, wherein formerly was found the Body of a Woman co∣ver'd with Gold and Precious Stones, which appear'd to be fresh, but so soon as it was brought into the Air, crumbl'd to dust. There was also found in the same Tomb a Latin Inscription in these words, The Happy Justina Mother; whence some infer, that it was the Empress Justina's Tomb. Near St. Felix's Gate there is also a Round Tower which leans forward more at the top then below; and most people believe that the Tower bow'd out of respect when St. Felix enter'd the City.

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Pont St. Esprit, or The Holy Ghost's Bridge, is a very pleasant City that de∣rives its name from a Bridge built over the Rhone with extraordinary la∣bour and expence. It consists of two and twenty Arches twelve hundred Fa∣thom long, and fifteen broad; so that it may not be vainly lookt upon to be one of the largest and most beautiful Bridges in France.

The Dauphinate includes several o∣ther Cities which have their particular Ornaments and Beauties, as Montelimar, Cret, Die, Gap, Ambrun and Vienne, which is the first City you meet with, as you enter into the Dauphinate through Lionnois. It was formerly inhabited by the Allobroges; at what time Le Viennois was call'd the Island of the Allobroges as being scituated between the Rhone and the Isere.

At Vienne they make the Blades of Swords in such vast numbers, that 'tis the wonder of all people, how the Ar∣tificers can sell 'em so cheap. But the reason is, because their Engins are so dispos'd as to be mov'd by the Water, and that in such a manner, that one workman can attend several sorts of Workmanship at one time Pilate

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was banish'd to Vienne by the Empe∣ror Tiberius; There is also to be seen the Tower where he was kept a Pri∣soner; and the Precipice from whence he threw himself Headlong, which is al∣ways cover'd with Clouds and Mists. Vienne had formerly two Castles belong∣it to it which were accounted impreg∣nable; but they were demolish'd, for fear they might prove a Recepticle for such as had a design to disturb the State.

Die, or Diva Augusta, seated upon the Drome among the Mountains, with a Bishoprick, suffragan to the Archbi∣shop of Vienne. It was one of the nineteen principal Cities of the an∣tient Vocantis mention'd by Tacitus, and once a Colony of the Romans.

Gap lyes two leagues from Durance with a Baileage, a Bishoprick, a strong Cittadel, and the Fort of Puy∣more. But neither the Cittadel nor the Fort could hinder it from being ruin'd by the Duke of Savoys Army in the year 1692.

Ambrun is a Bishops See, and lyes among the Mountains at the Foot of a Rock upon which stands a Castle. This City is said to stand the highest of any

Page 35

City of Europe. It is a Town of great antiquity; and 'tis said that Nero grant∣ed the Citizens of it the right of Lati∣nity, which Galba afterwards enlarg'd with new Priviledges. In the year 1692. it was taken by the Duke of Savoy, but quitted the same year, after every thing was demolish'd that ren∣der'd it Tenable.

Before I leave the Dauphinate, it be∣hoves me to make one Observation not unacceptable to the Curious, of a peculiar Wind that blows at Nyons, six leagues from Orange. It is call'd the Wind Pontius, from the name of the Mountain whence it comes. Nyons is seated in a Bottom, upon the bank of a River call'd Egue, where there is a Bridge with one only Arch, account∣ed the most beautiful in the World. It is said to be a Piece of Roman work∣manship, round like the Letter O, and to be as deep from the Foundation un∣der Ground as above. And indeed, altho it be of a Prodigious heighth, yet there appears but the half of the Circle above Ground. And I have heard the People of the place aver, that when they have gone to search for the Foun∣dation, they could never find any.

Page 36

But they perceiv'd, that still the lower they digg'd, the narrower the circle contracted.

As to the Wind of Pontius, it usual∣ly blows from Midnight till ten or ele∣ven a Clock in the Morning, and it is almost as cold as the North-wind. It issues out of the Cleft of a Rock, about a small League from Nyons near a Her∣mitage. Into this cleft the people have often thrown Stones, and let down a Sounding Line, but could never reach the Bottom. Nor is the Wind so vio∣lent in this part, as about a quarter of a League from thence. Now in re∣gard the cleft is not very wide, it was stopt up toward the end of the last Age, and so it remain'd for seven or eight years; but then they were forc'd to o∣pen it again, in regard the Earth surceas'd to bear, the Olive Trees, Vines, and other Fruit Trees wither'd, so that their Autumnal Harvests were very Barren, and the Inhabitants were seiz'd with Contagious Diseases, which caus∣ed a great Mortality among 'em.

As for Vivarez, it being a Province very Mountainous and Barren, Travel∣lours take no pleasure in it; unless it be at Viviers, which is the Capital City

Page 37

of it, and the See of a Bishop. You may also visit Annonay, where the Gen∣try are very Civil and Courteous; but where the Common People make it no scruple of Conscience to discharge their Fusee's upon you from behind a Hedge upon any slight occasion.

CHAP. VI. Of Savoy and part of Piedmont.

SInce the King has brought Savoy, the County of Nice, and some part of Piedmont under his Subjection, 'tis requisite that I say something of those Parts, before I engage farther into France. Chamberi is the Capital City of Savoy, and the Seat of a Parlament, but the King of France being desirous to extend his Conquests this way, hav∣ing this Wind of Victory in his Poop, first made himself Master of this City: after which, the County and City of Nice and Villa Franca which was call'd the Bulwark of the Mediterranean, were forc'd to acknowledge the Do∣minion of France, under pretence that Nice was formerly a part of Pro∣vence.

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Not long after the Fortress of Montmelian, which the Savoyards ac∣counted Impregnable was likewise car∣ry'd by the French, and then they took and burnt Oneglia, the only remaining Sea Port Town in Savoy. The Forti∣fications of all these Towns are very Regular, and the Churches very Beau∣tiful.

Besides these places, the King of France has Pignerol seated upon a Mountain of the Valley of Perousa, five leagues from Turin. The other is Casal the Capital City of Montferrat, upon the River Po, which the Duke of Mantoua surrender'd to the King in 1681. These two Towns are very considerable in respect of their strength and scituation, in regard they secure France from the Invasions of the Princes of Italy, and open him a passage, when he shall be at leisure to look that way. But in regard I pro∣pose to my self a particular Volume of Italy, I omit here several remarks more proper for that Tome, then this of France.

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CHAP. VII. Of Languedoc.

THere is no Province of France so vast in the extent of it as Langue∣doc. Eastward, it is bounded by the River Rhone, which parts it from the Dauphi∣nate and Lorrain; to the South, by the Mediterranean and the Pyreneans; by the Garonne, to the West; and to the North by Rouergne and Quercy. The Climate is accounted the best in the Kingdom, and the Soil is the most Fertile; insomuch that it produces whatever is to be found in all the other parts of the World except Spices, your rich Gums and Sugar. The People are character'd to be very witty, much ad∣dicted to Study, and to appear often in their Accoutrements what they are not. They are accus'd of being great Talk∣ers, very inconstant, and unfit to keep a secret. Their Women are wanton and frolicksome, much given to Paint, and love a greater liberty then becomes their Sex. However these Rules are not so general, but that they admit of

Page 40

many exceptions: and they that are not stain'd with these defects, need not concern themselves with common fame; and as for others if they are so happy to amend 'em, People of Vertue will always do 'em Justice.

Tholouse is the Capital City of this beautiful and spacious Province, seated upon the Garonne; and so antient, that 'tis said, that Tholo, one of the Sons of Japhet was the Founder of it. Certain it is however that when the Romans Invaded the Gauls they found Tholouse to be a very considerable City, and therefore beautify'd it with a Capitol, Amphitheaters, and Aqueducts, the Remainders of which, besides her Churches and other Structures are suf∣ficient Testimonies of her Antiquity. Afterwards it was the Metropolis of the Kingdom of the Visigoths, and after that, of the Kingdom of Aquitain.

It is the seat of a Famous Parlament, an Arch-bishoprick, a Generality, a Chamber of Accounts, and a Univer∣sity. The Cathedral is dedicated to St. Stephen; and that of St. Saturnin is a beautiful Pile; where 'tis said they have the Bodies of no less then seven of the Apostles, and one of the Thorns of our

Page 41

Saviour's Crown. There is a vast Treasure which could never be taken away, whether it be by reason of the noisomness of the Water, or whether it be guarded, as they say, by Prodigious Serpents that threaten to devour all those that disturb their Rest. How∣ever it were, History tells us, that the Gauls making War with the Inhabi∣tants of Delphos brought away vast Riches: and that the share of the Tecto∣sages, who inhabited Languedoc, came to a hundred and ten thousand pound weight in Gold, and five millions of pounds weight in Silver: that their Priests enforc'd 'em to throw the Riches into the Lake of Tholouse, whence Cepio, the Roman Consul caus'd it to be carri'd away, sometime after, hav∣ing put the Lake to Sale by Outcry: and there is some reason to believe that a great deal of it might be left behind; but I am not certain whether it lies in that part where the Church of St. Sa∣turnin is built.

In the Church of the Observantin Friers is a Vault which consumes the Flesh of Dead Bodies without hurting the Skin, or Dislocating their Members. In the Church of the Jacobins is to be seen a

Page 42

Pillar that supports after a wonderful manner five or six Vaults one above another: I forbear to mention the rest of their Monasteries, in some of which there are several Reliques and Curiosi∣ties.

The University of Tholouse is account∣ted one of the most famous in Europe, except the two Universities in Eng∣land, and the second in France; for which reason perhaps it was that Au∣sonius calls it the City of Pallas, and that it generally bears the Epithete of Tholouse la Savante, or Tholouse the Learn∣ed.

Castres is another very antient City of Languedoc with a Bishoprick. Lavaur, Pamiers, a Bishops See, Mirepoix, a Bi∣shops See, and some other Cities in the Parts adjoining are very pleasant places, where the People feast and make good chear at a cheap rate; which is the reason that 'tis a common saying among 'em that they have more good Victuals then Money.

Carcasson is commanded by a Cittadel which is very strong, both by reason of the scituation of it and the Works about it; and before you enter into it you must leave your Sword at the Gate.

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The City is considerable for the Wool∣len Manufactures, for the neatness and uniformity of the Streets, and the sweet temper and civility of the Inhabitants.

We must not remove far from Lan∣guedoc without visiting Perpignan in Rous∣sillon, where the Men go after the French Fashion; and the Women after the Spa∣nish Mode. The Cittadel is compos'd of Five Bastions, commanded by a Fort which is call'd the Donjon. Some Leagues from thence, you meet with a Fountain of Salt Water, which springs out of a Rock in such abundance, that about six or seven Paces from thence it forms a River, over which there is built a Bridge of several Arches.

Narbonne disputes the Point of An∣tiquity with all the other Cities of France; for they pretend that Narbo, K. of the Country was the Founder of it, long before the Birth of Christ. But that which we find most certain is, that it was in great Request in the time of the Romans, who grac'd it with a Capi∣tol and an Amphitheater, erected Mu∣nicipal Schools within it, adorn'd it with a Bath and Aqueducts, and all the marks of Roman Grandeur, as being the Seat of the Proconsuls, and their first Colony

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out of Italy in Europe; in acknowledg∣ment of which Favours, the Inhabitants set up a Statue to Augustus: So that Rome and Narbonne were leagu'd to each other under the Title of Sisters; and 'tis said, that the Sympathy between 'em was so great, that in the Year 145. Rome and Narbonne were afflicted both at the same time with a dreadful Con∣flagration that happen'd by Accident. But the greatest part of the Roman An∣tiquities were ruin'd by the Goths and Vandals. This, being a Frontier Town, is regularly fortifi'd; and the Canal of Conjunction between the two Seas, a Royal Undertaking, becoming a great Prince, derives the beginning of it from Narbonne. It is the Seat of an Arch∣bishoprick; and the Archbishop is Pri∣mate of the Province, President born of the States of Languedoc, and dignifi'd with the Title of Lord of the Sea.

Bezieres, is a City not far distant from Narbonne, seated upon a Hill, the Avenues to which are somewhat diffi∣cult. It is both Large and Ancient, and greatly valu'd by the Romans, who ere∣cted there two famous Temples to Au∣gustus and Julia. It is still one of the most Delightful Places of Abode in

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France. Insomuch, that the beauty of the place, and the fertility of the soil, have begot a Proverb among the People of the Country, Que si Dieu habitoit sur la Terre, il choisiroit Bezieres pour sa Se∣jour. That if God were to live upon the Earth, he would make choice of Bezieres for his Place of Residence.

The City of Pesenas is no less plea∣sant, and the Inhabitants are much more civil and courteous: and no question but the Residence of several Princes there from time to time, as the late Prince of Conti deceas'd, and Monsieur de Montmoranci, contributed not a lit∣tle to infuse into 'em the Air of the Court.

Though I shall end this Chapter with the Cities of Montpellier and Nimes, 'tis not because they are less considerable: the contrary rather may be said, that Travellers tarry longer at Montpellier, then in any other City of Languedoc, by reason of the Variety of Divertise∣ments which they meet with in the Place, good Chear, good Company, Fa∣miliarity, Galantry, and Learning; all which Advantages they meet with there in a Superlative Degree.

The University is accounted the most

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famous for Physick in all France. And it is to be observ'd that no Dr. in that Faculty is to be admitted, till he has first receiv'd seven times the Robe and Bonnet of Rabelais in the Castle of Mo∣nac. In such Veneration is that Doctor among those that govern this Academy. The reason of it is this.

The Scholars having committed some Disorders in the City, which occasion'd Complaints against the University at Court, they were depriv'd of some part of their Liberties▪ and Privileges. Rabelais, who had been a Monk, and was a person of a Luxuriant Wit, being then at Montpellier, could not choose but participate of the Trouble the Aca∣demians were in when they heard the News. What does he do, but goes to Paris, and presents himself at the Chan∣cellor du Pratt's House? The Swiss, who took him for a Fool, ask'd him, what his Business was? To which Rabe∣lais answer'd him in Latin. Upon which, the Swiss not understanding a word he said, call'd for one of the Chancellor's Officers, who understood the Language; which Rabelais finding out, answer'd him in Greek: With that they brought him a person that

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understood Greek perfectly well; but to him the Doctor spoke Hebrew: and if they talk'd to him in Hebrew, he answer'd in Syriack or Arabick, &c. So that having puzzl'd and exhausted all the Learning in the Chancellors House, the Chancellor desir'd to see him him∣self: at what time having Harangu'd him in favour of the Students of Mont∣pellier, he obtain'd the Restoration of the Privileges that had been taken from 'em. This Rabelais was made Curate of Meudon, and dy'd at Paris in 1553. and being a Man of such a pleasant Humour, this Epitaph was made upon him:

Pluto, Prince of Shades Infernall, Where sad Souls ne're laugh, but burn all, Be kind to Rablais, and they'll all Fall a laughing, great and small.

Near the Convent of the Cordeleers, there is to be seen a Lake full of Frogs that have never been heard to make a Noise, as the people of the County say, since St. Anthony of Padua, being interrupted by 'em in his Prayers and Meditations, commanded 'em to be Si∣lent; and 'tis observ'd, that if you take

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any of those that make most noise in other places, and put 'em into this Lake they presently become as Mute as Fish. On the other side, if you take 'em out of this Lake and put 'em in another place, they shall be the first that shall fall a Croaking and the loudest in the Consort of Paddocks. Pliny recites the same thing of the Frogs in the Island of Seriphos in the Archipelago. The City it self is very Ancient, commanded by a Cittadel with fair and royal Bastions, and is the Seat of a Bishop Suffragan to Narbonne, a Presidial Court, and a Se∣neschalship, a Court of Aids, a Cham∣ber of the Finances, &c. without the Town is to be seen the Royal Physick-Garden, stor'd with Curiosities in abun∣dance.

Nimes is a very fair City, & where the Inhabitants, were they not such great Talkers, and less Malapert, would be very good Company. The City is ve∣ry Ancient; for they affirm, that Ne∣mausus the Son of Hercules was the Founder of it, and gave it his own Name as being call'd in Latin Ne∣mausis or Nemausus. It was formerly much more spatious then it is, as inclu∣ding within it seven Hills like Old Rome,

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and the Walls were fortify'd with a Thousand Towers.

Among the most remarkable Pieces of Antiquity we must reckon the Am∣phitheater erected by the Emperor An∣toninus, Four hundred and seventy Pa∣ces in compass. There are also to be seen two Gladiators cut in Stone; the Wolf that suckl'd Romulus and Remus, and the Vultures that appear'd to those two Founders of Rome.

There is likewise to be seen at Nimes, a Cavern that runs under-ground as far as Arles: for it was the Custom of the Romans to have in several parts such subterraneal Communications between one City and the other. In the Neigh∣borhood also appears a very Curious Piece of Roman Workmanship; that is to say, Three Bridges one above ano∣ther; the lowest of six Arches; the second of two; and the third of thirty: so that the whole Structure may be a∣bout Fourscore and two foot high. This Bridge is call'd Pont du Gard.

I shall say nothing of the Grotto's, the Garden of St. Privat, or of the great number of Curious Statues; only I may add this in short, that this City is an Epitome of the Roman Antiquities:

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and give me leave to insert this one thing more, that without the City some Remainders of a Building are to be seen, which is said to have been a Temple of Diana, and that the Fountain of Ve∣sta, which is near it, was famous here∣tofore, because the Water was made use of to Purifie the Vestal Nuns.

The City is a Town of great Trade, & there are made in it great Quantities of Woollen Stuffs. It is also the Seat of Bishop, a Seneschalship, and a Presi∣dial Court.

CHAP. VIII. Of Guien and Gascoignie.

MAny People under the Name of Gascognie, comprehend all the Provinces that lye beyond Lion; as the Dauphinate, Provence and Languedoc; whereas Gascognie is no more then a small Province included with in Guienne.

The Garonne contributes not a little to enrich this Province; it receives the Merchandizes which Forreign Ves∣sels import, and carries away the Wines and other Commodities of the Coun∣try.

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The People are look'd upon to be a little Insolent, excessive Boasters, and somewhat given to Thieving. But the Rule is not without Exceptions, for there are as vertuous People among 'em as in other places, and free-hearted be∣yond compare. They are the best Soul∣diers in France, especially after they have had a Campagne or two i' their Bellies; and the Souldiers from the Neighbouring Provinces are as good as they: Their Train'd-Bands have made themselves sufficiently known in Piedmont and Catalogna these last Years.

Bourdeaux is the most considerable City of this Province, as being the seat of a Venerable Parliament, an Arch∣bishoprick, and a famous University for the Civil and Canon-Law, founded by Eugenius IV. and Lewis X. in 1473. It affords very beautiful Pieces of An∣tiquity; among the rest the Statue of Jupiter, and that of the Emperour A∣drian, which a Counsellor of the City has got into his Study. The Hollow-Stones that lye at St. Severin's, are ve∣ry much worth Observation; in re∣gard they are full or empty of Wa∣ter, as the Moon is either at the

Page 52

Full, or in her Wain. Lewis XIV. has not a little contributed to make this City considerable by the Castle Trompette, which he built for the De∣fence of the Haven, which by means of the Garonne, receives the biggest of Merchants Vessels, that bring great Wealth to the City. Some Years since the Parlament of Bour∣deaux was remov'd to Reaule, which did a great Injury to the City, dis∣contented the Members of that Ve∣nerable Body; but brought great Advantages and Profit to that little Borough.

There are an Infinite Number of other Cities in Guyenne, and the parts adjoyning, where Travellers may meet with a Thousand▪ pleasing Objects; as Cadillac, Baza, Bayonne, St. Jean de Luz, &c. But I leave those that have seen 'em, or have a mind to visit 'em, to judge of their Beauty.

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CHAP. IX. Of Xaintonge and Angoumois.

I Join these two Provinces together, first, because they both give their names to the Capital Cities, and are very near under the same Climate; and secondly because the Remarks which I have made upon each in particular, be∣ing added together, will afford matter but for a very small Chapter.

Xaintes, seated upon the Banks of the Charante, is beautify'd with many marks of Antiquity. The Bridge over the River makes it evident by a Latin Inscription that it was built by Caesar; upon which are also to be seen the re∣mains of a Triumphal Arch. The Church of St. Peters, which was the one and twentieth of those that Charle∣maign caus'd to be built was ruin'd in the last Civil Wars. Nor is it less re∣markable for the remains of an Amphi∣theater and several Aqueducts, and di∣vers other Monuments of Roman An∣tiquity. It is also a Bishops See, and the Seat of a Presidial Court. 'Tis

Page 54

likewise observ'd that the Water of the River Charante keeps much longer sweet at Sea, then the Water of other Rivers.

There are also several other fair Cities in Xaintoigne, as Coignac, Tonnay, and Brouage; famous for the Salt-pits adjoyning to it. At the Mouth of the Sea, which is call'd the Sea of Bourdeaux, stands a Tower built upon a Rock, which serves as a Pharos or Land mark to direct Ships that Sail upon that Coast. It is call'd the Tower of Cordouan; and we are as∣sur'd, that it is much higher and more beautiful then the Pharos of Alexandria.

Blaye, built upon the River side, is considerable for the Fortifications which hinder the Entrance of any Enemies Ships into the Harbour. There is also to be seen the Sepul∣chre of Charibert King of Paris, the Eldest Son of Clotaire the First.

The County of Xantoigne is very fer∣tile in Corn, Wine, Pasturage, Saf∣fron, &c. greatly stor'd with Fish, and abounding in Roman, or Pontic Worm∣wood; and it is a common Proverb a∣mong the People of the Country, That

Page 55

if France were an Egg, Xantoigne would be the Yolk.

Though the City of Angoulesm be seated upon a Rock at the top of a Moun∣tain, yet there is a Cittadel also built for the better Defence of it: Which also serves for a Curb upon the City it self should their happen any Sedition.

Two Leagues from Angoulesm, is a Fountain to be seen, which issuing out of an Abyss, never increases nor dimi∣nishes. A certain Queen of France, be∣ing desirous to know whence the Spring of this Fountain should arise, order'd a Condemn'd Person to be let down into the Abyss, who reported that he could see nothing but Dreadful Rocks and Monstrous Fish, that would have de∣vour'd him, had he not speedily got out of their way. At Montmeron a Silver Mine was discover'd; but no-body was ever set to work in it. The reason of which I believe to be, because Nature has furnish'd it with so small a quantity of that Metal, that the Mine will not afford Ore enough to Pay the Work∣men.

The People of Xantoigne are lookt on to be very Witty, and more Courageous. Those of Angoulesm are no less War∣like,

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and love to live like Gentlemen; but the Common People are Clowns and Brutes.

CHAP. X. Of Limosin and Perigort.

THE City of Limoges, is the Capi∣tal of Limosin; remarkable for several Monuments of Antiquity, and for three Councils held there in the Years 1029. 1031. and 1182. There are also to be seen several Aqueducts built by the Romans, Three Chur∣ches, and a great Number of Mona∣steries. 'Tis also the seat of a Presi∣dial Court, and an Audit for the King's Finances. Nor are Travellers to pass through it, without seeing the Arti∣ficers for Enamelling, wherein they are so perfect in this City, that there is not better Workmanship of that sort in any part of the World: and going to Ʋssel you see 'em no less busily em∣ploy'd in making of false Diamonds. The other most considerable Cities of Limosin, are Gueret, Tulle Brive, Ʋserche, a very Strong Hold, Roche Abeille, fa∣mous

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for the great Battel there fought in 1569. Chalos, noted for the Horse-Fairs there kept, Aines, Aimotier, &c.

Though Perigort be Stony and Moun∣tainous, yet the Inhabitants are well enough contented with their Condition. For the vast Number of Chesnuts which grow in this County, not only serve 'em for the Nourishment of their Families, but to fatten their Hoggs; Be∣sides, that it is well stor'd with Medi∣cinal Waters, and Iron Mines.

Periguex is the Capital City of this Province; so very Ancient, that some scruple not to affirm it to have been built by one of the Sons of Noah. But others from the Name of Vesuna, which the Ancients gave it, derive the Name of it from Venus, who was for∣merly worshipt in this City; where there are still to be seen the Ruins of a Temple dedicated to that Goddess, with several other Antiquities. The Fountain of Marlac, not far off from Pe∣riguex, ought to be visited, for the Eb∣bing and Flowing of the Waters that supply it. Which contributes not a little to confirm the Opinion of those who say, that Periguex is built upon a floating piece of Ground. Some Years

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ago, there was a Well in the Great Market-Place stopt up, which was thought to be an Abyss, in regard that several People being let down, could could never find a Bottom; only they reported upon their coming up again, that they saw a large Plain cover'd with Water. It may be some may put the Question, whence those People had so much light as to make such a Disco∣very? To which I shall answer accor∣ding as they told me, that it was from other Wells of the City, and parts thereabout, which let the light into that Subterraneal Sea, and by floating Lan∣thorns which they drove before 'em with Engines.

Besides there are few Houses in the City, but the owners if they dig never so little in their Cellars, presently meet with Water, which by the weight, the taste, and other marks, seems to be the same with that of the Well which was stopt up, because the Harlots were wont to throw their Children into it.

Two Leagues from the City there is another Fountain, the Water of which changes it self into Stones of what form you please. But among the

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most remarkable things, there is a Ca∣vern near Miramont, which is call'd Cluseau, which extends it self five or six Leagues under Ground, wherein are to be found Apartments pav'd with Mosaic Work, Altars adorn'd with beautiful Pictures, Fountains, and a River six and twenty foot broad, and beyond that, as they say, there is a vast Plain or Champian Country, where no body yet durst be so bold as to plant any Colonies.

In the Abby of Cadouan at Sarlat is to be seen a Sacred Napkin or rather Winding Sheet, wherein they affirm that the Body of Christ was wrapt when he was put into the Sepulchre of Joseph of Arimathea. Libourne, upon the Banks of the Dordogne, is a pleasant City, to which that River Ebbing and Flowing brings up Vessels of a Conside∣rable bigness. But there is one thing very extraordinary, nor do I know that there is any other like it in the World, which is, that from time to time there runs from the Sea a Whirl∣ing Eddy of Water, about the quantity of a Tunn, which without being driven by the Force of violent Gusts of Wind, rowls up the River with such an Im∣petuous

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fury as would overturn the big∣gest Ships, if they stood in the way of it; but in regard the terrible noise it makes, may be heard three Leagues off, and for that they know this Whir∣ling Eddy which they call Macanet, al∣ways keeps along by the Shoar, the Ves∣sels remove to the middle of the River; and by an Instinct no less worthy of Admiration, the Wild Ducks and Swans, no sooner hear the noise but they make haste to the Land, to secure themselves from the Rowling Waves.

CHAP. XI. Of Querci, and Rouergne.

QƲerci cannot chuse but be a very fertile Country, as being water'd by the Garonne, the Dordogne, and the Tarr, which are three Navigable Rivers. There are said to be Mines both of Gold and Silver in it; but the Inhabitants take little or no care to look after 'em; no question because they have plenty of Corn, Wine, Prunes, Saffran and Pastorage, that will fetch Gold and Silver without the pains of

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Digging and Delving. The Common People are Boarish, but the Gentry and Nobility very Civil.

Cahors is the Capital City of Querci where the Amphitheater, the Bridges and the Towers are infallible proofs of the Antiquity of it. Pope John XXII. a great disturber of the peace of Eu∣rope, was born at Cahors, and founded there a University for the Common Law in 1332. Wherein he shew'd more love to the place of his Nativity then to all the World besides. It is also a Bishops See which is said to bring in the greatest Profit of any other in France. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Steven, and was Con∣secrated by St. Martral. There are also in it several other Churches and Monasteries and a Colledge of Jesuits, ever since the year 1605. 'Tis also the Seat of a Presidial Court, from whence Judgments are carry'd by appeal to the Parliament of Tholouse.

Part of the Diocess of Montaubon is seated in Languedoc, and therefore the Bishops have a seat in the Diocess of that Province. The Hugonots made themselves Masters of it in 1562. and fortify'd it so well that it held out three

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several Seiges; but at length it was snbdu'd in the year 1592. and because it should be no more a refuge for Re∣volt, the Fortifications were laid level with the Ground.

Moissac is another City of Querci, seated as well as Montauban upon the River Tarr. It was taken from the Romans by the Goths, and from them by K. Clovis. After that Gaiger Duke of Aquitain took it, and from him it was retaken by K. Pepin in 1212. The English utterly ruin'd it. However af∣terwards it came to be considerable again; but it will hardly recover the ill usage it receiv'd from the Hugo∣nots in the Civil Wars. A traveller will find little considerable in Rouergne except the Steeple of the Cathedral of Rodez, which is lookt upon to be the highest and the best wrought Piece of Architecture in France. The City of Rodez is very ancient but has lost the Antient splendour of it, as having been ruin'd by the Goths, Saracens and Francks, &c. however it is still a Bi∣shops See, and the Seat of a Seneschal∣ship. It formerly bore the Title of an Earldom, which was united to the Crown by Hen. IV.

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In the parts adjoining to this City stands the Mountain of Canseu, which Burns when it Rains: and two Leagues from thence you meet with an Abyss, sixty paces wide at the top, and two hunder'd deep: and by the side of this Abyss is to be seen a hole which has no bottom.

The Quercinois are lookt upon to be very great dissemblers; and the Perigor∣dins to be very quarrelsome, especially in their Cups.

CHAP. XII. Of Auvergne.

AƲvergne is one of the principal Provinces of France: it bears the Title of an Earldom; and is bounded to the East; by Forests, and Lyonnois; by Rouergne and Velai to the South; by Querci, Perigort, and Limosin to the West, and by Berry and Bourbonnois to the North. It is divided into the Up∣per and Lower. The Upper drives a great Trade in Cheese, Horses, Cows, Mules, &c. The Lower abounds in Corn and Wine, and Trades in Tapestry,

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Bone-lace, Cloth, Knives, and other Commodities. The greatest part of the Auvergnois are laborious, crafty, full of dissimulation, addicted to quarrel, and very self-conceited and opinionated of themselves; so that if you do not give 'em their way with much compli∣ance, a little thing will create a squab∣ble.

Aurillac is the Capital City of the Upper Auvergne, which was formerly adorn'd with several fair Churches, for the most part ruin'd in the Civil Wars. Among the most remarkable things we have there to be seen, the Refectory of the Carmelites is reckon'd to be the chiefest, which much surpasses in Neat∣ness, Bigness and Painting all the rest of the Convent.

The Presidial Court of Aurillac is lookt upon to be one of the severest Tribunals in the whole Kingdom.

In this Division of Auvergne stands the Mountain Cantal, remarkable for the height of it, and for the Simples which it produces, tho it be extream∣ly cold; the other Mountains are also fertile in Pastorages. The lower Au∣vergne commonly called la Limayne is not so wide in the extent of it as the

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Upper. But it is much a more plea∣sant place to reside in. The soil is more fertile, and the Inhabitants are more Civil and Sociable. Clairmont is the Capital City of it. The Ca∣thedral is cover'd with Lead, which the Air has purify'd to that degree, that people have offer'd a considerable summ for the Covering, and to lay on another of Lead of the same thickness; but neither would their Money be ta∣ken, nor their proffer accepted. There is in it a Fountain that turns into Stone as it falls: upon which account, some aver that the Bridge which is there to be seen was the work of this strange operation of nature. It is eight fathom wide, six in thickness, and thirty six long: for which reason Charles IX. had the curiosity to see it. Several Councils have been held at Clairmont; among which the most famous was that in the year 1095. at what time by the sollicitations of Ʋrban the II. The cele∣brated Croisade was resolv'd upon for the Conquest of the Holy Land. Charles the V. assembled the States of the Kingdom in this City. 'Tis believ'd this City was built out of the Ruins of the Ancient Gergovia, so highly applau∣ded

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by Caesar in his Commentaries; and where there was a Tower which could not be burnt when that City was all in Conflagration, by reason it was made of Larch or Larinx wood, which resists Fire.

Rion famous for the Antiquity of it is seated upon a Hill, which renders the Situation and the Prospect very pleasant. The Houses are well built, the Streets straight and broad, the Churches Magnificent, the Monasteries stately, the Inhabitants sumptuous: but nothing makes the City so remark∣able, as St. Amable's Tooth, which as they say, infallibly cures the bitings of mad Dogs, of Serpents or any other venemous Beasts. In a word the Si∣tuation of the City and parts adjoining is so pleasant, that it is call'd the Gar∣den and Paradise of Auvergne.

This City is the seat of a Mareschal∣ship, a Presidial-court, a Generality of the Finances, an Election and all the Officers of Justice sit in a Palace built by John of Berry.

About a small quarter of a League from Clairmont stands Montferrand ano∣ther considerable City; which was the reason that the Marquess d'Effiat, would

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fain have had 'em join'd together under the name of Clairmont-Ferrand, but the Jealousie of the Inhabitants started so many difficulties, that he could not compass his design. The Buildings are very beautiful and the Magnificence of the Churches inspire Devotion.

Some few Leagues from Rion is to be seen the little City of old Brioude, remarkable for the Bridge that belongs to it consisting of one Arch▪ which is supported by two Mountains of a pro∣digious height. It was built by Caesar's Order; and it is observable, that one Stone falling out of the Building some Ages since, could never be put again into the place from whence it fell.

Le Puy is a City very considerable for the largeness of it, the riches of it, the fertility of the soil, and other ad∣vantages. The great number of Re∣liques which are there preserv'd draws the Devotion of the people for above seven or eight leagues round. But in regard the People always magnify Ob∣jects, and multiply Miracles, which the places where Reliques are deposited, are seldom sorry for, it many times happens that true Devotion is intermix'd with Superstition. Amongst the pre∣tious

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Gages which that City preserves, there is an Image of the Holy Virgin, of Cedarwood, which the Ignorant People say was made by a Prophet of the Old Testament that wrought Jour∣ney work under Joseph.

The same silly People also give credit to what a Demoniack formerly pro∣nounc'd in the Church of this City, that a Relique which is there preserv'd of one of the Innocent Children which were Massacred by Herod was the be∣gotten son of that Barbarous King.

CHAP. XIII. Of Lionnois.

LIonnois is a small Province from the which Capital City derives the name of Lyon. The People are very cour∣teous and civil to strangers; their pre∣vailing passion being desire of gain, which extends their Trade to that de∣gree, that it is call'd the Magazine of France. And it is commonly said in reference to the Magnificence of Lyon, that if Paris be without her equal, Lyon

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has no companion. It was formerly call'd the Colony of Claudius, because that Emperor was born there.

The City of Lyon, seated upon the Con∣fluence of the Rhone and the Sone, is ac∣counted one of the best Situated, most Antient, the Fairest and one that drives the greatest Trade in all France. It is the Seat of an Archbishop who is Primate of the Gauls, of a Presidial Court, an Au∣dit for the Kings Revenues, a Mint, a Seneschalship, an Election, a Tribu∣nal of Trade under the Title of the Conservation of Lyon. It is said to have been founded by one Lugdus, King of the Celtae, and therefore was in Latin call'd Lugdunum. Others say that one Momor a Prince of the Gauls built a Ci∣ty upon the Confluence of the Rhone and Sone by command of the Emperour, and because he saw a flight of Crows settle upon a Mountain adjoining he call'd it the Lugdune or the Hill of the Crows. As for those who assert it to have been a Colony of the Romans, 'tis a visible Errour, in regard the Druids had held their Assemblies there before ever Rome was talk'd of; and the Phoe∣nicians and Greeks had settl'd them∣selves in it, before that Famous Re∣publick

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ever sent any Colonies into Gaul. However it were certain it is that there was an Altar in or near this City where the Orators of those times disputed for the Prizes of Eloquence, and a Sacred Grove where the Ancients offer'd up their Sacrifices. The City of Lyon is divided into thirty seven quarters, which are call'd Penonages, which have every one their several Captains, and other Officers. It has seven Gates, the Market Places and Piazza's are Magnificent, and the Build∣ings both Sacred and Prophane are sumptuous. The Cathedral is dedica∣ted to St. John, and was built upon the Ruins of the Altar which was dedicated to the Emperor Augustus the same year that the Emperour Claudius was born. The Town House is one of the most superb Structures in Europe: and among the Curiosities which are there to be seen, there are two Tables of Brass, upon which are engrav'd the Speech which Claudius made to the Roman Senate to incline 'em to admit the Lionnois and other Gauls into the Senate as Citizens of Rome. The Arse∣nal is one of the best supply'd in France. The Archiepiscopal Palace is very

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Beautiful. Pope Gregory VII. confirm'd in the year 1079. to the Archbishop of Lyon the Title of Primate of the Gauls. And this priviledge was adjudg'd to him by several other Pontiffs Successors to Gregory. The Chapiter of Lyon is com∣pos'd of three Churches under one and the same Steeple; and upon the Toll∣ing of the same Bell Divine Service be∣gins and ends in all the three Churches at the same Time, which are St. Johns, St. Stephans, and Holy Roods. This Chapiter has been always fill'd with persons as well Illustrious for the No∣bility of their Birth, as for their Learn∣ing. Five or six celebrated Authors have observ'd that in the thirteenth Age there had been known to have been Canons, one Son of an Emperour, nine Sons of a King, fourteen Sons of Dukes, thirty Sons of Counts, and Twenty Barons.

The thirteenth Oecumenical Coun∣cil was assembl'd at Lyon by Innocent IV. in 1245. and Gregory X. celebrated another there in 1274. where he presid∣ed himself And besides these two Coun∣cils several other particular Councils were held in this City at different times.

The Castle of Pierre Aneise may be

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said to have peculiar Beauties, if there be any Beauty in a Prison. For Prison∣ers of Quality and Consequence are committed to this Place: and thus the Duke of Milan was under Confinement in this Castle, when the French took him after his being defeated.

The Antiquity of Lion is easily prov'd by the Amphitheaters, Aque∣ducts, and old Ruins of the Palaces of several Roman Emperors who resided in it. Without the Gate of the City is to be seen a Sepulchre, call'd, The Sepulchre of the two Lovers. Some will have it to be the Monument of Herod and Herodias; others, the Tomb of two Lovers, that had been long in Love together, but dy'd in the state of Vir∣ginity. Before the Gate of St. Justus lyes a Stone of an Immense weight, which is plac'd in such a true Equili∣brium, that you may move it with one Finger.

This City is endowed with several Privileges which have been granted her by her Soveraigns from time to time; and they who have been once honour'd with the Shrievalty of Lion, are en∣nobl'd, both they and their Posterity.

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CHAP. XIV. Of Burgundy and Nivernois.

BƲrgundy is a Province with the Ti∣tle of a Dutchy and Peerdom, though it were formerly a Kingdom; and the Title is now born by the Dau∣phin's eldest Son. This Province ex∣tends it self from North to South a∣bove Fifty Leagues (not above Forty, says De la Croix) and Thirty from East to West (Thirty two, says De la Croix). The Source of the River Seine, rises in a Village of Burgundy, which is call'd St. Seine. The Burgundians are an obliging people, and love Honour; but they are naturally opinionated and obstinate, and you must have a great Ascendant over 'em to make 'em alter their Sentiments.

Dijon is the Capital of this Province; and Historians report, that the Empe∣rour Aurelian having utterly raz'd and destroy'd a certain place call'd Burg-Dogne, or Burgus Deorum, was afraid of the Anger of the Gods to whom that place was Consecrated; whereupon his

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Mother, Priestess of the Sun, advis'd him for the Expiation of his Fault, to build a Temple and a Castle in the same place, which were the First Foun∣dations of this Capital City. It is re∣markable for the Walls, which are fortify'd with Towers and Bastions; the Castle flank'd with Four Great Towers, and Two Ravelins; a fair Charter-House, wherein are the State∣ly Tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy, the Palace of Justice, the King's House, Sixteen Churches, two Abbies, five Hospitals, the Town-House, and for being the Place where the States of the Country meet every Three Years. This Country enriches it self by her Corn and Wine, being generally call'd the Magazine of Paris. St. Bernard was Born in a Village of this Province, call'd Fontaine.

Beaune, is a very ancient City, with a Chancery and a Bailliage, seated ad∣vantageously for every thing; but most chiefly fruitful in delicious Wines.

Autun is also very Ancient, and some there are who derive the Ety∣mology of the Name from Augustus. However it were, the Romans thought

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it worthy of their Friendship, and en∣ter'd into an Alliance with it. The Druids held their Senate in this City. There are also to be seen the Ruins of a Temple of Juno, which they call Ja∣nitoye. And among other Antiquities, there are still to be seen a Field of Mars, the Mount of Jupiter, and the Ruins of Triumphal Arches, Pyramids, Aqueducts, &c. The Cathedral Church, and the Episcopal Palace are worth the sight of the most curious Tra∣vellers.

Auxerre is a very good City with an Episcopal See, a Presidial Court, and a Bailliage. This City is very Ancient, and it's said, that Julian the Apostate stopt here for some time to refresh his Army. In the next Age, it was taken and almost ruin'd by Attila in the Year 451. After that, K. Robert took it in 1005. from Landri, Count of Ne∣vers. Since which time it was go∣vern'd by particular Counts of her own. 'Tis a very great Thorough-fare, having a Stone Bridge, Large Piazza's, several Fountains, beautiful Churches, among which, the Cathedral is very Magnificent, stor'd with Reliques, and adorn'd with a most beautiful Quire, a

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Steeple remarkable for the heighth of it, and a Chapter of Fifty nine Canons: but the Earldom is now united to the Crown. The Bishop resides in the Ca∣stle, which it would be no difficult thing to fortifie, in regard it stands upon a rising Ground which Commands the City. There have also been two Coun∣cils held in this City, the one under the Pontificate of Pelagius, in 578. the o∣ther in 1147. It is seated upon the Ri∣ver Yonne, that falls into the Seine at Montereau.

Nevers, the Capital City of Nivernois, is a considerable City, not only for the goodness and fertility of the Soil, but for the Advantages it receives from the River Loire, which washes the Walls of it, and runs by the Fortress that Com∣mands it, and over which it has a Bridge of Twenty Arches. Travellers are always us'd to visit these Parts, where the Inhabitants make Glasses and Ear∣then Pots, which bring great Profit to this City. The Bishoprick is under the Archbishop of Sens, and one of the best in the Kingdom. In the last Assem∣bly of the States General of the King∣dom, the Deputies of Nivernois ap∣pear'd under the Government of Orlea∣nois.

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There are in this Little Province both Iron and Silver Mines, but the People make little Advantage of 'em.

CHAP. XV. Of Berry and Burbonnois.

THough the Province of Berry be of no great Extent, yet is it very Rich. The Cloth which is there made is in great Esteem; and the Wool in this Province is the best in the King∣dom. The Inhabitants who were in Ancient Time call'd the Bituriges, were very formidable: And History informs us not only of the Conquests which they made in Germany and Italy; but that the same People, who a long time held the Empire of the Gauls, were they who gave Caesar the Greatest Trouble in his Conquests.

The Capital City of Berry is Bourges, being an Archbishoprick, with the Ti∣tle of a Primacy and Patriarchate, ha∣ving also a Presidial Court, a Bailliage, a Generality, and a University. The Situation of it is very Advantageous, by reason of the two Rivers that make

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a kind of Bogg, and fill the Moats. It has seven Gates, and as many Suburbs. The Walls are in a good condition, for∣tify'd with Four and twenty Towers. The Ramparts are Cannon-proof, the Stones being cut Diamond fashion, and Nineteen Foot thick. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Stephen, a most beautiful Structure, supported by Fifty Pillars.

The Treasury of this Cathedral con∣tains many Curiosities which Foreigners will be glad to see, and of which I would have inserted here a Catalogue, had I not unfortunately mislay'd it in my Travels. This City suffer'd much by the Irruptions of the Barbarians in the Fifth Age, and still it feels the fu∣rious sack of the Huguenots upon the 27th of May 1562. when the Count of Montmorancy, who was their General, took it.

Bourbonnois is separated from Burgun∣dy by the River Loire, which lyes to the East; Berry bounds it to the West; Auvergne and Forest to the South; and Nivernois to the North. This Province is not so considerable for it self, though the Soil be very fertile, as for the Ho∣nour which it has to see the Illustrious

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House of Bourbon wear the Crown of France.

The City of Bourbon bequeath'd her Name to this Province, though it be not the Capital; which is attributed to Moulins. The Castle of Bourbon is en∣viron'd with 24 Towers, which renders it extremely strong. Near the Castle lies a great Marsh, where are the Baths of Bourbon, so renown'd all over Eu∣rope.

Moulins is a very large and fair City, seated upon the River Allier, and re∣markable for the Mineral Waters, and for the great Number of Cutlers Shops. The Presidial Court is one of the greatest Ornaments that belong to it.

CHAP. XVI. Of Poitou, and the Country of Aunis.

POitou is a large Province, containing near Sixty Leagues from East to West, (De la Croix says, about 30 Leagues in Length, and 20 in Breadth) It is bounded by Berry, Limosin, and Touraine. To the South, by Angoumois

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and Xantoigne; by Anjou and Bretaigne to the North; and to the West by the Ocean. The Poictovins are civil and obliging; but they are so addicted to Raillery, and nettling, girding Sarcasms, that you must either forbear keeping 'em Company, or else be forc'd to bear their Flouts; which being so frequent, change their Gay and Sportive Hu∣mour into the Vice of Scurrilous De∣traction.

The Capital City of this Province is Poiters, seated upon a rising Ground be∣tween two Rivers. It is famous for being a Bishops See, and has a Presidial Court, and a University for the Law, which Pope Eugenius IV. and Charles VII. founded there in 1431. At what time the Parlament of Paris was trans∣lated thither, because the English were Masters of the Metropolis of the King∣dom. Near to Poitiers it was that the Battel so dismall to France was fought in the Year 1356. where the English took K. John Prisoner.

The City of Poitiers is govern'd by a Mayor, Twelve Sheriffs or Alder∣men, and Twelve Sworn Counsellors. The Walls and Castle rose from the Ruins of the Amphitheater, and the o∣ther

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Structures are sufficient Proofs of the Antiquity of it. Among the Re∣liques which are there preserv'd, there is to be seen in the Cathedral, a part of St. Peter's Beard, which St. Hilary brought thither from Rome, as they say. The Statue of Constantine the Great, stands in the Church of Nostre Dame. In the Church of St. Hilarius, is to be seen the Trunk of a Tree, which they tell you, serv'd that Saint instead of a Cradle, and has a peculiar Efficacy to restore Madmen to their Wits. There is also a Sepulchre which consumes Dead Bo∣dies in Four & twenty Hours, but which becomes noisom to the Smell, if you rub it with Iron.

Above half a League from the City, is to be seen that which is call'd La Pi∣erre Elevée, or the High-rais'd Stone, Five and twenty Foot long, and Seventeen broad, supported by Four other Stones. They tell yee, that Pantagruel drew this Stone out of a Rock, which is call'd, Passe-Lourain or the Lobcoch; having this Distich engrav'd upon it,

Hic Lapis ingentem superat gravitate Co∣lossum, Ponderis & grandi sidera mole premit.

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This Stone the vast Colossus far surpasses, And with its ponderous Bulk the Stars op∣presses.

This Stone, as I have said already, is supported by Four Pillars; and there is also a fifth, upon which the Stone does not rest; though it stand within a fin∣gers breadth of it, of which the people of the Country tell this Story. That Sir Aldegonde carrying the great Stone upon his Head, and the Five Pillars in his Apron, let fall one of 'em; which the Devil presently taking up, follow'd the Saint, who stopp'd half a League from Poitiers, and set the great Stone upon the Four Pillars that remain'd in his Apron. But the Devil being desi∣rous to add a fifth, could never raise it so high as to bear with the rest, and to be assistant in supporting the Bur∣then.

Nor must I pass over in silence a cer∣tain Cavern about four Leagues from the City, the Entrance into which is very difficult, and the Passage more difficult. 'Tis said, that formerly they were wont to go and take a walk in this Cavern, after the usual mirth and rejoycing that attends upon Weddings.

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But that a Young Bride having fallen into it and broken her Head, they who came after, thinking it more convenient to keep their Skulls whole, the Custom was abolish'd. They who have a desire to Visit the Town-House of Poitiers, may see the Fran∣chises and Privileges granted by the Kings of France from time to time, to the City, Engraven upon Plates of Brass.

There are also other very fair Cities in Poitou, as Lodun, the Castle of which is one of the best situated in the King∣dom. It was formerly call'd Juliodu∣num, and has a Bailliage and a Presidial Court. Next to this Chasteleraut, fa∣mous for Cutlers, and where they make the best false Diamonds in any Part of the World. 'Tis said, that about a small League from this City, in former days, a young Hind shew'd the Soul∣diers of Clovis the Great, where to pass the River, going before 'em as their Guide, when they went to fight Alaric K. of the Goths. The Bridge which Katherine de Medicis there built, is a very fair one; as being Sixty six foot broad, and Two hundred and thirty long, supported by Nine Arches. Mail∣luizay

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and Luson, are two Episcopal Cities, which have very fair Churches; nor are they without some particular Beauties: Nevertheless the First Bi∣shoprick was translated to Rochelle in 1648.

The Country of Aunis, so call'd, as they say, because a certain King under∣took to Conquer it by an Ell aday, though it be but of a small extent, yet is very fertile and well peopl'd. The City of Rochelle is the Capital City. Which though it be not very Ancient, became famous in the last Age, by rea∣son of the Civil Wars for Religion. The first Houses that were erected in this place, were built to withstand the Incursions of the Normans, that ma∣ny times Landed in the Harbour. By the Treaty of Bretigny it was sur∣render'd to the English against the Will of the Inhabitants; but return'd not long after under the Dominion of France.

The Hugonets became Masters of it in the last Age. And La Noue, who was Governor of it, valiantly defend∣ed it against the Siege which Charles IX. in vain laid to it, with his Forces under the Conduct of his Brother

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Henry, afterwards Henry III. who left the Siege to take Possession of the Crown of Poland. In the Year 1620. there was a meeting of the Huguenots at Rochel, to consult about laying the Foundation of a small Protestant Re∣publick. But Lewis XIII. reduc'd 'em to their Duty in 1622. But in re∣gard the English and Hollanders en∣courag'd 'em to revolt, and for that the Sea afforded an easie entrance for their succour, they soon drew upon 'em the Indignation of their Soveraign; at what time, in the Year 1627. Car∣dinal Richelieu having caus'd a Mound or Dam to be raised, Seven hundred forty seven Fathom long, on purpose to hinder their Communication with the Sea, they Surrender'd the 28th of Octob. 1628. The King who was per∣sonally at the Siege, enter'd into the Town upon All-Saints Day, depriv'd the Inhabitants of their Privileges, and demolish'd their Fortifications, leaving only the two Towers which Charles V. built, and which were thought requi∣site for the defence of the Port, which he secur'd with a Chain that reach'd from one Tower to another.

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Since that time, the present King has surrounded it with New and Strong Fortifications, a good Cittadel, and o∣ther Works to hinder the Landing of a Forreign Enemy. It is now a Town of great Trade, whither all the Mer∣chandizes are brought that are trans∣ported from the Indies; and besides that it is a Bishops See, it is also the seat of a Presidial Jurisdiction, and a Soveraign Court for the Western Salt-Pits. The people in their Humour, partake of the Air of the Sea, which they breath, and are therefore very boisterous and insolent, and no less full of Vanity and Pride. Rochefort is a Sea-Port Town at the Mouth of the River Charante, formerly no more then a Village, now a City with good Bastions, upon which are planted Rows of Trees, that make very pleasant Walks; There is also in this place se∣veral Ware-houses, and an Hospital for sick and wounded Seamen.

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CHAP. XVII. Of Bretagne.

BRetagne is a very large Province, which is also usually call'd by the Name of Little Bretaigne, to distinguish it from Great Britain; which contains the Kingdoms of England, Scotland and Ireland, and the small Islands adjoyning. There is no Province of France that has so great a Number of Havens as this; for it is environ'd by the Ocean to the North, South and West: Eastward it is bounded by Poitou, Anjou, Maine and Normandy. It extends it self above Forty Leagues from South to North; that is to say, from the Island of Bouitz to the Mouth of the River Couenon, and Sixty from East to West; that is to say, from Vitrey, to the Point of Con∣quet, and contains Nine Bishopricks. Formerly it was govern'd by Kings for above Three hundred Years together, but was afterwards contented with the Title of a Dukedom, till the Year 1491. that Ann of Bretaine, the only Daugh∣ter of Francis II. the last Duke, married

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Charles the Eighth of France, and after that Lewis XII. who both United this Dutchy to the Crown.

The Soil is fertile in Corn, Flax, Hemp and Fruits, affords good Butter, and Breeds good Horses, but produces little Wine, to the great Grief of the Inhabitants, who are great Lovers of it. Between Chasteau-Briant and Martigues, are several Mines of Iron and Lead. In the Signory of Salle, is a Source of Wa∣ter that smells of Antimony, and drives before it a sort of Sand of the co∣lour of Gold: and not far off upon a high Hill, they find Antimony, Sulphur and Copper: And in another place, they dig out Talc and Stone Allum, which being pounded into Powder, may be spun into long Threads or Candle∣wieks, which never go out as long as there is any substance remaining, and is thought to be the Asbestos of the An∣cients. In the Mines of Valgoet, are to be found both Jasper Stones, and ve∣ry clear Chrystal, with several other Rarities. Moreover, in this Province there is a great Value put upon the Se∣crets of the Mount Menehaldec, the Beauties of the Forrest of Besban, where is still to be seen the square Base of

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Stone call'd Perron-Merlin, the ancient Divertisement of the Knights Errant, and the Fountain of Balanton, &c. They also make great reckoning of the Am∣ber of Bell-Isle, the Aqueducts of Dal, the Vaults between Rieux and Redon. the Subterraneal Torrent in the Forrest of St. Aubin du Cornier, the Singulari∣ties of the River Ardre, and the Lake of Grandlieu near Nantes. And having already told yee how the Province is seated upon the Sea, I think it needless to tell yee that they are stor'd with all sorts of Fish; among the rest, there is taken upon the Coast of Bretaigne, a certain Fish, which at Marseilles is call'd Imperador or the Emperour, but in Bre∣tanie, Gracieux Seigneur, which is very delightful to the tast. The Bretons are of a very sociable Humour, and there are two sorts of People, whose Com∣pany pleases 'em better then any other. The first are those that can stoutly hold out to drink with 'em; The next, are they who in their Discourses, or other∣wise, make appear their Hatred of the Normans.

For the People of those two Provin∣ces have such an Antipathy one against another, that they can never speak well of each other.

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Rennes is the Capital City of Bretagne, divided by the little River of Vilaine, which brings up great Barks to the Town, though it stands above Twenty Leagues from the Sea. Henry II. ere∣cted a Parlament in this City, which is also a Bishop's See, adorn'd with fair Churches, two Abbies, St. Magdalens and St. Georges, with several other Re∣ligious Houses, and the Bell belonging to the Palace Clock, is accompted one of the biggest in the Kingdom: and having been formerly the Residence of the Dukes of Bretagne; it is stor'd with several Reliques for Travellers to see, either out of Curiosity or De∣votion.

Nantes contends for Superiority with Rennes, as being likewise a Bishops See, and pretending that her Haven ren∣ders her more wealthy, more famous, and makes an ample amends for the Parlament, with which the other is Honour'd. But not to trouble my self to decide the Controversie between these two Cities, I shall only observe that Nantes is very ancient; and some Authors will have it, that Nantes, one of the Progeny of Noah, was the Foun∣der of it, and gave it his own Name.

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However it were, she had once parti∣cular Counts of her own, and the Beau∣ty and Fertility of her Soil, appropri∣ated to her the Sirname of the Eye of Bretagne. There is a Castle belonging to this City; which secures the Port: and her Presidial Court, where there is a Tower and a Clock, both consi∣derable for the rarity of their Work∣manship, and an Election render her no less remarkable then her University for the Law, founded by Pope Pius II. in the time of Francis II. the last Duke of Bretagne.

When you visit the Churches, you shall see the Tombs of several Dukes of Bretagne: The Town-House is built after the Modern Mode: and her large Ware-Houses for all sorts of Merchan∣dizes merit the View of all Travel∣lers, who will then admire the vast Wealth of this City. The Edict which Hen. IV. set forth at Nantes, in favour of the Protestants in April 1598. was revok'd by Lewis XIV. in October 1685.

St. Malo's is another famous Sea∣port Town of this Province seated up∣on a Rock in the Sea, in the Island of St. Aron, joyn'd to the Land by a long

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Causey; the entrance into which is de∣fended by a Castle flank'd with large Towers, environ'd with good Moats, where there is a Garison and a Gover∣nour. The Bishoprick of St. Quidalet was translated thither in the Year 1172.

I have here two things to observe concerning St. Malo's, one of which is true, the other seems to me to be a Fa∣ble. The first is, That every Night they let out a dozen or fifteen great Mastiffs, that presently run their Rounds about the City upon the Ramparts, and infallibly tear to pieces all people that they meet with. So that before they suffer 'em to walk their Patrolle, there is a Bell Toll'd for some time to give people notice that the merciless Watch is a coming. These Dogs are kept on purpose to preserve the City from sur∣prize: which gave occasion for some to say, That Dogs had the Guard of St. Malo's.

My second Remark relates to a Ra∣ven and a Crow that are in the Island, whose number never increases. When one of these two Dies, all that are in the Neighbouring Parts flock thither to take possession of the Vacancy, as if it

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were an Inheritance; and in regard they have no Knowledge of Littleton's Tenures or the Canon-Law, much less of the Genealogy of their Ancestors, so as to leave their Estates to the next Heirs, they fall to Bloody Wars one among another: many are slain on both sides, many are wounded, and many betake themselves to Cowardly flight, and save themselves upon the Conti∣nent; and thus at length the strongest carries it, and becomes peaceable Pos∣sessour of the Island all the rest of his days. As to the Surviver, I know not whether upon the loss of his Compa∣nion he loses his Privileges, or whe∣ther he measures Beaks and Claws, and then Duels it out with the new Comer.

Brest is the best Seaport-Town which The French have upon the Ocean; for which reason it is the Great Maritime Arsenal of the Kingdom, and the Ren∣devouz of the French Fleets. The En∣trance into the Bay is very dangerous by reason of several Rocks that lye under Water upon high Tides; but there are always skilful Pilots ready to carry in great Ships without any hazard. The King caus'd this Place to be fortify'd

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after a wonderful manner, and not with∣out Reason, it being one of the Princi∣pal Keys of the Kingdom, and the Ren∣devouze of all his Men of War.

CHAP. XVIII. Of Anjou and Touraine.

THE Province of Anjou, dignify'd with the Title of a Dukedom, has Bretagne to the East, Maine to the North, Touraine to the West, and Poitou to the South. It is Thirty Leagues in Length, and Twenty Broad (Twenty two, says de la Croix) and being water'd with the Loire, the Sarre, and several other Rivers (no less then Six and Thirty, says de la Croix) it is extreme∣ly fertile, and the People are Witty and very Crafty.

Angers, the Metropolis, call'd by some Authors the Black City, by reason that all the Houses are cover'd with black Slate, which they dig out of the Quarries adjoyning, is the Seat of a Bi∣shop, a Presidial Court, a Bailliage, a Mint, and a University for the Law; Founded by Charles V. in 1364. others

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say, by Lewis XII. in 1398. The Ca∣thedral dedicated to St. Maurice, is a lovely Structure, and the three Steeples over the Portal are wonderful pieces of Architecture, of which that in the mid∣dle seems as if it hung in the Air, be∣ing supported by the Foundations of the other two. Among the Antiquities of the Treasury, there is to be seen St. Maurice's Sword, and one of the Cisterns, that contain'd some part of the Water which Christ turn'd into Wine at the Galilean Wedding.

The Castle is very Ancient, and built upon a Rock, flank'd with Eighteen large round Towers, and defended with a wide & deep Moat cut out of the Rock, whither many times Prisoners of State are sent, for more Security. The Hu∣guenots surpriz'd this Castle in the Year 1585. but they were soon after expell'd again by the Anjovins. Angers is also remarkable for the University there Erected, according to the King's Letters Patents bearing Date June—1605. with the same Privileges which the Academy of Paris enjoys, except the Comittimus. The Number of the Aca∣demies is fix'd to Thirty, besides the Bishop, the King's Lieutenant, the first

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President, the King's Proctor in the Presidial Court, and some others who have their Places in the Academy by vertue of their Employments. The City it self is govern'd by a Mayor and Twen∣ty four Aldermen or Sheriffs.

La Flesche stands upon the Loire, about Ten Leagues from Angers to the South. There is in it a very fair College of Je∣suits, Founded in the Year 1605. by Henry IV. containing three Courts, and three Piles of Lodging Chambers, suffi∣cient to Lodge the King and all his Court. The Heart of that great Mo∣narch lyes in the Chappel under the Steps ascending to the Altar, as he or∣dain'd by his Last Will.

Saumur, is applauded by all Forreign∣ers for the Pleasantness of the Situation; where there is also a Strong Castle and well fortify'd.

Touraine lyes to the North of Anjou, about Thirty Leagues in length, and as many broad. This Country is so fer∣tile, that it's call'd the Garden of France. The People are good Natur'd, Sincere and Witty. If you will gain their Friendship, you must have a care of be∣ing Melancholy: And therefore they are call'd, The Laughers of Tours, Les Ri∣eurs de Tours.

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They who have seen Tours the Capital City of this Province agree, that it is one of the most delightful Mansions in the Kingdom. It is the seat of an Archbi∣shop, a Presidial Court, and a Money-Chamber. The Loire, over which there is a Bridge of Nineteen Arches, causes it to abound with all things. There are great Quantities of Silk Stuffs made in this City, which are thence transported all over Europe. The Church of St. Mar∣tins is of a vast length, being a Hundred and sixty Foot long, with two and fifty Windows, twenty Columns, nineteen Doors, and three very High Towers. in the Year 1591. there were found in it two Urns full of the Ashes of several Bodies consum'd by Fire.

Amboise stands upon the Loire with a Castle Royal built there by Charles VIII. to signalize the Place of his Birth.

Loches is remarkable for the Castle and a beautiful Forrest adjoyning to it. Lewis XI. enlarg'd this Castle, and ad∣ded a Dungeon to it, where he kept the Cardinal de Balve a long time: and here it was that Lewis Sforza being confin'd by Lewis XIII. dy'd in his Im∣prisonment, and was Buri'd in the

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Church of Nostre Dame, where is to be seen the Tomb of Agnes Surel, Charles VIIth's Mistress.

Chinon is a pleasant City, where Charles the Seventh was retir'd, when Joane of Arc came to find him out and proffer him her Service: And more lately remarkable for being the place where Rablaise was Born.

CHAP. XIX. Of Beausse, which Comprehends Orleanois, Blesois, and Le Pais Chartrain.

IN regard there have been no just Bounds given to this Province, be∣cause several Authors, out of a humour joyn the Neighbouring Provinces to it, I shall not undertake to limit the extent of it; but following the Opinion of those who divide it into Upper, Middle and Lower, which are commonly call'd Le Pais Chartrain, Orleanois, and Blesois; I shall only observe what is most curi∣ous in the Principal Cities of the Pro∣vince. By the way, you are to observe that this Country is call'd the Granary of France, by reason of the great quan∣tity

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of Corn which it produces. As for the People, the Chartrains are look'd upon to be Zealous Catholicks: The Orleanois, somewhat addicted to Slan∣dering and Backbiting: The Blesois are said to speak the best French; yet both the one and the other are very civil and obliging.

Chartres is a City so Ancient, that some Authors affirm it to have been built by the Gomerites, who were sent into Gaul, a little after Noah's time. However, certain it is, that the Druids built this City long before the Birth of Christ, whose Nativity they foretold, and that he should be Born of a Virgin; which was the reason that Priscus the Roman Governor erected a Temple there, which he consecrated Virgini Pa∣riturae, to the Virgin that should bear a Son. And seeing that St. Paul com∣ing to Athens, met with an Altar dedi∣cated to the Ʋnknown God, we may the more readily believe that either by some Prophetick Spirit, or by some other Prerogatives only known to Pro∣vidence, that the Pagans in the midst of their Darkness had some glimmer∣ings of that knowledge which God re∣serv'd for the Christians. And hence

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I may observe, that if some Christians were to be met among the Pagans of those Times, there are more Pagans to be found among the Christians at this day.

There is a Well to be seen at Char∣tres, which is call'd the Saints Well, because the Romans were wont to throw the Primitive Christians into it. There belongs to this City a Presidial Court, together with a Bishops See, under the Archbishop of Paris, ever since 1622. for before it depended up∣on the Archbishop of Sens. There are to be seen in this City many Pieces of Antiquity, and a great number of Re∣liques. The Cathedral dedicated to the Holy Virgin is very considerable for the Quire, & the Church under-ground, and the two Steeples are the Admira∣tion of Forreigners. The Streets are fair and straight, the Houses neatly built, the Market-Places large, and the River Eure affords a Water very pro∣per for several sorts of Manufacture. In the Year 1591. Hen. IV. took it from the League, and caus'd him∣self to be Crown'd in it, by rea∣son that Reims held out in Rebel∣lion.

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Orleans is a very considerable City, dignify'd with the Title of Dukedom, and a Bishop's See, under the Arch∣bishop of Paris, with a Presidial Court and a University for the Law, founded by St. Lewis, and confirm'd by Philip the Fair in 1312. All this advances much the Honour of the City, but her grea∣ter▪ Glory to be the Appanage or Childs Portion and Title always belonging to the Second Son of France, much more Exalts the Idea that Forreigners have of her.

This City is seated upon the Banks of the River Loire, in a Country full of Vineyards that furnish it with excellent Wine.

Among the most considerable Build∣ings is to be seen the Church of the Holy Cross, which the Religionaries ruin'd in the last Age; but though Henry the Great caus'd it to be rebuilt, he has not restor'd it the Beauty of her Pristin Antiquity. This City was seve∣ral times Besieg'd, and twice miracu∣lously deliver'd: Once by the Prayers of her Bishop St. Aignan, when Attila King of the Hunns besieg'd it in the Year 450. Long after that the English besieg'd it in the Year 1417. at what

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time it was succour'd by Joan of Arc, call'd the Maid of Orleans. The Kingdom was then in a Low condition, and upon the very brink of Ruin; at what time this Maid, who was no more then a poor Shepherdess, born at Dompremi upon the Meuse, receiv'd a Command from God to go and succour Orleans, and to Crown Charles VII. K. of France at Reims. Coming to Court, she made up to the King, whom she had never seen in her life before; and though he had nothing to be signaliz'd from the rest, in the croud of Courtiers that were in a huddle about him.

She told him of the Command she had receiv'd from Heaven; They gave her what Men she desir'd, with which she defeated the English and reliev'd Orleans. After that she caus'd the King to be Crown'd at Reims, re-conquer'd all Champagne, and had expell'd the Eng∣lish quite out of France, but that she had the Misfortune to be taken before Compiegne, which she had laid Siege to. When the English had her in their power, they carri'd her to Rouen, and Burnt her for a Witch. She was call'd the Maid or Virgin, because that having been search'd by several Matrons in the

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presence of the Queen of Sicily, she was found to be so. The Orleanois had so great a Veneration for her Memory, that they set up her Statue upon the Bridge of Orleans.

There are several very fair Country seats in the Parts about Orleans, of which Chambort is the most remarka∣ble, as being built by the Command of Francis I. and the Stairs belonging to it, are look'd upon to be a kind of a Prodigy; for that when you would go up into the Chamber over head from the Room where you are, instead of ascending, you must descend.

The Loire washes the Walls of Bloise as well as of Orleans. This City is seated in a most delightful Air, which the Pleasure of the Walks about it renders much more Charming, provided the Weather be dry. For otherwise the Soil is so fat, that the least Rain makes the ways almost impassable. There is a very beautiful Castle belongs to it, built upon a Rock, which has been the seat of several Kings. There is also a Pyramid erected upon the Bridge that crosses the River, in Honour of Hen. IV. of France. There are also to be seen some fair Ruins of Roman Antiquity:

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and Travellers will find a great deal of Pleasure in viewing the Park that be∣longs to the Royal Castle.

At some distance from the City is to be seen the Castle of Buri, in the Court of which is erected a Pillar, on the top of which stands a Figure of King David in Brass, which was brought from Rome.

The Lake also which is in the Dutchy of Vendosme is very remarkable for this, that the Water abounds in it for seven Years together; but the next seven Years it lyes quite dry. During which time you may perceive Caverns in it that are extreamly deep. The Coun∣try people also know by certain Marks of the Height of the Water, whether the seven Years that the Water is absent will be fruitful or barren.

Amboise is a very ancient City, where Charles VIII. was Born; and this Prince it was who built the Castle, which is the greatest Ornament of it. In this Castle Lewis XII. instituted the Order of the Knights of St. Michael, the First day of August in the Year 1469. This City is also famous for the Con∣spiracy there discover'd against Fran∣cis II. Catherine de Medicis, his Mother,

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and all the Court in 1560. And Histo∣ry informs us, that there was a most Bloody Butchery of the Conspirators, among whom there was a great number of Persons of Quality.

CHAP. XX. Of the Island of France.

VVHen Forreigners hear talk of the Island of France, unless they cast their Eyes upon the Map, they take it for a Land divided from the rest of the Kingdom. But though it be intercut and intercepted with many Rivers, however they do not make any Island; only it is a Name which the Province has deriv'd from little Islands which the Seine surrounds in several pla∣ces, and among the rest, from two within the Circuit of Paris; which are call'd, the Island of Nostre Dame, and the Island of the Palace. This Island is the most Noble Portion of the most Illustrious, most Potent and most Flou∣rishing Kingdom in the World.

This is what the Author stretches out in Praise of his own Country; but whe∣ther

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it agree so well with the present Condition of France, is left for the Im∣partial to judge.

Paris is not only the Capital of this Province, but the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom; nor is it without good Reason that a certain Author calls it, The Queen of the Cities in the World. It is so ancient, that the Time is not positively known when it began to be built. Some say, that the Foundations of it were laid before the Death of Noah. However it were, Authors agree that it is more ancient then Rome, as it is much larger; in regard that Rome is not above Twenty three Thou∣sand and fifty Paces in Circuit; but that Paris is Twenty six Thousand eight Hundred and fifty Paces in Compass, the Suburbs being therein comprehen∣ded.

In the Year 1622. the Bishoprick was Erected into an Archbishoprick; The present Archbishop is one of the most Learned, the most Illustrious, and the most Obliging Prelates in the King∣dom; Messire Francois de Harlay, Duke and Peer of France; Commander of the King's Orders; formerly Archbi∣shop of Rouen, and one whose Merit

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is Universally known. He has a Seat in the Parlament of Paris, which is the first in the Kingdom; and which is usually call'd the Parlament of Peers. But besides this Tribunal, there are se∣veral others in Paris, as the Chamber of Accompts or of the Exchequer, which was made Sedentary at Paris, at the same time that the Parlament was fix'd; The Grand Chastelet, where the Provost of Paris sits as a Judge, and may be call'd the Sessions House of Paris. There is also the Conseil du Roy, or the King's Council, which consists of such Persons as he pleases to make Choice of to Consult about Publick and Important Business; Conseil de Finances, compos'd of a Super∣intendant, Intendants, Comptrollers, Registers, &c. and the Conseil Privè de Parties, which is Assembled about par∣ticular Causes and Controversies be∣tween Party and Party: Besides several other Courts and Chambers which we omit for Brevities sake.

The University of Paris is the most famous in all France, Italy, Spain, or Germany; where all manner of Learn∣ing and Sciences are taught. It was founded in the Year 791. by Charle∣maign, at the perswasion of the learned

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Alcuin, who was the first Professor of it. And I am apt to believe, that to justifie the Opinion of M. Balzac, who calls the University of Paris the Latin Country, there needs no more then to tell yee, that it consists of Fifty five Colleges, which are always full of an Infinite Number of Scholars; and eve∣ry Body knows that the Sorbonne is a Nursery of Learned Men, and the most rigid College in France.

I do not here propose to my self to make an exact Description of all the Beauties of Paris; for a Volume in Fo∣lio would not contain 'em all. I shall only take notice of those things that render it most remarkable, without en∣tring into a particular Enumeration of all Particulars. The chiefest without doubt is this, that it is the place where the Monarchs of France have all along kept their Courts: and when the Pa∣lace of the Louvre, which is joyn'd to that of the Tuilleries, shall be finish'd, with that Order and Magnificence as it is begun, 'twill be the most Noble Building in the Universe. There will not be only Lodging sufficient for all the Court; but also for the Ministers of State, for all the Officers of the

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Crown, and all Forreign Ambassadors that come to reside in the City.

The Cathedral Church which is de∣dicated to the Holy Virgin, is a Hun∣dred seventy four Paces in length, and Sixty broad, and a Hundred Paces high. There is to be seen the Old and New Testament engrav'd upon the Stones of the Quire; and over the Door of the Quire is to be seen a Crucifix, with an Image of our Lady, which are two Master-pieces of Workmanship. The Frontispiece of the Church is adorn'd with three large Portals, over which are One and twenty Figures of the King's that Reign'd from Childebert, to Philip the August. Two high square Towers serve it instead of a Steeple, which are esteem'd to be the fairest in France. So that 'tis commonly said, If you would have a perfect Cathedral, you must joyn the Quire of Bauvaise, the Body of Amiens, the Portal of Reimes, the Steeple of Chartres, and the Towers of Paris. From the bottom to the top of these Towers you ascend with Three hundred eighty nine Steps; and at the top there is a Gallery that leads from one Tower to the other. To the Church it self belong Seven

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Doors and Forty five Chappels. But that which is most of all to be won∣der'd at is this, that this Vast and Mag∣nificent Structure is built upon Piles driven into the Ground, by reason it stands at the farther end of the Island of the Palace. The Quire, the Body of the Church, and the Chappels are adorn'd with lovely Pictures, and many precious Reliques are preserv'd within those sacred Walls.

The Holy Chappel of the Palace, is a Church which is very remarkable, not only for Antiquities and Reliques, but for the Workmanship of the Building which is supported by Pillars so small, that a Man would wonder how they are able to bear so great a weight. The most famous Reliques that are lockt up within these two Places, are the Crown of Thorns with which Christ was Crown'd: The Table-Cloath upon which he Supp'd with his Apostles: The Spunge, and Head of the Spear wherewith his Side was pierc'd; Some of the Virgins Milk, Moses's Rod, a piece of St. John Baptist's Head, &c. In short, not to engage my self to give an account of all the Churches in particu∣lar; I shall only tell yee that Paris

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contains One and fifty Parishes▪ of which the most part consist of Twenty five, Thirty and Thirty five thousand Communicants; Two and fifty Mona∣steries, Seventy eight Nunneries, and Thirty Hospitals.

If we add to this, that there are in Paris Eight hundred and thirty Streets, Twelve Suburbs, of which St. German des Prez alone is larger then many Ca∣pital Cities; Ten Bridges, Seventy three Piazza's and Market-Places, though de la Croix says but Twenty five, and a great Number of Palaces or Noble-Men's Houses, 'twill be no wonder to us what Charles V. said, That he had seen in France a World, a City and a Village: The World was Paris; the City was Orleans, and the Village was Poitiers. It would be no difficult thing to Arm in Paris Two hundred Thou∣sand Men for the Service of the State; for an Army might be rais'd only of the People that wear Liveries, from Eighteen to Thirty Years of Age.

The Bastille is a Castle built near St. Anthony's Gate for the Security of the Arsenal, which is one of the best provided in Europe. This Fortress is flank'd with Four Towers, surrounded

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with Moats, and furnish'd with Good Artillery; and is the Place where many times Prisoners of State are se∣cur'd.

The Royal Hospital for the Infirm, is a House which Lewis XIV. caus'd to be built for the Entertainment of Officers and Souldiers who are not in a Condi∣tion to bear Arms, as having been Maim'd in the King's Service. And there may be conveniently Lodg'd in this Hospital Four Thousand Men, who keep as exact Guard within the Place, as if they were in a Garrison.

Now in regard that Paris lyes in the Heart of the Kingdom, there is no need of keeping any Garrison in it. But because it is the general Concourse of all sorts of People, and for that it frequently happens that Rogues and Night-Robbers wait their Opportu∣nities, and generally practise their Vil∣lanies in Places of great resort; the City therefore keeps a standing Watch of Two hundred and fifty Men, part Horse and part Foot, which are divi∣ded into several Quarters to walk the Rounds and ride the Patroule. But in regard the Criminals make it their Bu∣siness to avoid 'em, the Citizens and

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others are frequently set upon after the Watch is past, not being able to help themselves. 'Tis true, that in my Opi∣nion it were an easie thing to secure Paris against the Robberies and Mur∣thers which are too frequently there committed, with little Charge to the City; but it would be a rashness in me to go about to instruct the most under∣standing Magistrates in the World.

I have already mention'd, that in Paris there are Seventy and three Pub∣lick Piazza's or Market-Places. I shall only speak of those three which are the most Modern, and which are also the most considerable. The first is call'd the Royal Place, which is in that part where formerly stood the Palais des Tournelles, or of the Parlamental Court for Criminal Causes, near St. An∣tonies-Street. 'Tis very regular, and en∣viron'd with Thirty six Pavillions no less proportionable, and rail'd quite round with Iron Spikes on all the four sides. All the foreparts of the Houses round the Piazza are supported with Pillars that make a kind of a Gallery or Portico, under which People may walk at all times shelter'd from the Sun and the Rain. Hen. IV. began it,

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but in regard it was not finish'd till in the Reign of Lewis XIII. they set up a Brass Statue of King Lewis, omitting his Predecessor, Erected the 27th. of Septemb. 1639. upon a Pedestal of white Marble, with Inscriptions on the four Sides.

The Second is the Place de Victoires in the Parish of St. Eustachius, at the End of the Street des Petits Champs; which some People know better by Mazarin's Quarter. Messire Francois d'Aubusson, Duke de Fueillade, built this Piazza, as an Eternal Monument of his Fidelity and Zeal for the Honour of Lewis XIV. in the Year 1686. and in his Memory Erected in the Mid∣dle of it, the King's Statue of Gilt Brass.

The Groupe of this Statue is com∣pos'd of three Figures: The one re∣presents the King standing upright in his Royal Robes: The other Victory, which stands behind, having one foot upon a Globe, from whence she raises her self, and puts a Crown upon the King's Head. The Third is a Cerberus, which the King tramples under foot; alluding to the Triple Alliance, which the King made a shift to break by the

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help of a Kind Neighbour. The King's Statue is Thirteen foot high: and the Groupe with a Hercules's Club, a Lions Skin, and a Helmet weighs above Thirty thousand weight. The whole is very neatly Gilt, and rais'd upon a Pedestal of vein'd Marble, two and twenty foot high, adorn'd with four Bodies of Brass in Chains, with Inscrip∣tions denoting the Subjection to which the King has reduc'd his Enemies. At the four Entrances into the Place stands a Brass Lanthorn Gilt, into which there are Candles put every Night to en∣lighten the Place. Which Lanthorns are sustain'd by three Columns of Mar∣ble, adorn'd with Base Reliefs of Brass which represent the King's Victories.

Monsieur de la Fueillade foreseeing that Time brings all things to ruin, and defaces the noblest Structures; and be∣ing desirous to preserve this Monument entire to perpetuity, made a Deed of Conveyance of all his Estate to the pre∣sent Duke of Fueillade, & the Male Heirs of his Body, and for want of such Issue to the next of Kin, that bore the Name and Arms of Aubusson, and for want of such to the City of Paris, upon Condi∣tion that whoever inherit shall every

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Five and twenty Years reguild the Sta∣tue, Lanthorns and Ornaments at their own Costs and Charges, keep all the several Pieces of Workmanship in re∣pair, and find Candles for the Lanthorns to enlighten the Piazza.

The Third is a very fair and large Piazza very like the Royal Piazza, only that it has not Arches round about in form of a Portico. It joyns to St. Ho∣nor's Street facing the Convents of the Brown Mendicants and the Capuchins; and runs as far as the New Street of the Little Fields. M. de Louvois began it, but since his Death, the Buildings have been discontinu'd. 'Tis call'd the Pi∣azza of the Conquests, and was design'd for the setting up the King's Statue on Horseback, which is already finish'd; and the Ornaments that are to accom∣pany it, are to set forth the Glorious Actions of that Monarch.

And since I am speaking of the Pub∣lick Places where the Statues of our Kings are to be seen, I must not omit the Statue of Henry the Great erected upon Pont Neuf, just against the Dau∣phin Piazza. It is of Brass, upon a Horse of the same Metal, rais'd upon a Pedestal of Marble and Jasper, adorn'd

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with Base Reliefs, and Inscriptions in Letters of Gold, denoting the Prin∣cipal Victories of that Great Mo∣narch.

Pont Neuf, standing over the Point of the Island of the Palace, was begun in 1578. under the Reign of Henry III. but was not finish'd till 1604. when Henry IV. was come to the Crown, and had in part appeas'd the Troubles of his Kingdom. It consists of two Bridges, which the Point of the Island joyns together, supported by Twelve Arches. On both sides of this Bridge upon an Elevation of about three foot, stand a great Number of Brokers Shops, which do not hinder, but that four Coaches may go a-breast in the middle. It is also adorn'd with a House that stands upon Piles, which is commonly call'd La Samaritaine, because of the Figure of the Samaritan Woman which is there to be seen, together with that of Christ, who instructs her that there is a Water more wholesom then that which she seeks for.

Within these few Years there was another Bridge built much after the fashion of Pont Neuf, over against the Palace of the Tuilleries, which is now

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call'd Pont Royal, the Royal Bridge, and stands where the Red Bridge stood be∣fore. There are moreover several o∣ther Bridges very considerable, as the Change Bridge, St. Michael's, the Bridge of Nostredame, and Pont Marie; which have Houses on both sides, so high that they cannot be perceiv'd to stand over the Water.

The French Academy is become so famous over Europe, that all Men have a particular Esteem for all the Learned Men who have the Honour to be Mem∣bers of it. It was not Confirm'd by the King's Edict till the Year 1635. though it were set up five or six Years before, and was instituted by Chance. For that in the Year 1620. certain Learned Persons that Lodg'd in seve∣ral parts of the City, resolv'd to meet once a Week at one of their Houses by Turns, that so they might with more ease confer together. And this was that which gave a Beginning to this Academy, which was at first un∣der the Protection of Cardinal Richlieu. Now the Number of the Academies is fix'd to Forty.

Besides this Academy, Paris has also Three others; The Academy Royal of

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Painting, which owes the Beginning of it to M. de Noyers Secretary of State, and Surveyor of the King's Buildings in the Reign of Lewis XIII. They met at first in the Palais Royal, but were afterwards remov'd into the Galleries of the Louvre, at what time it was settl'd by a Decree of Council in the Year 1648. The Academy Royal of Sciences, compos'd of a great number of Learned Physicians, Philosophers, and Mathematicians, settl'd by Mr. Col∣bert, Minister of State, at the Sollici∣tation of M. du Clos, and the Abbot of Bonzaisi. And for the sake of these Learned Men it is, that the King has erected an Observatory in the Suburb of St. James, for the making new Expe∣riences, and discovery of new Secrets in Physick and Mathematicks. And lastly, The Royal Academy of Archite∣cture, settl'd by the same Mr. Colbert in 1671.

As for the Divertisements of Paris▪ no body can be ignorant that there are wanting neither Exquisite Voices for Opera's, nor good Actors for French and Italian Comedies; nor any sort of excellent Company; whether for Conversation, Play, or Courtship. And

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for Places of Meeting and Walking, there are the Tuilleries, the Queen's Court, and the Groves of Boulogne and Vincennes.

But I perceive this Chapter has car∣ried me too far, which obliges me to omit a Thousand Wonderful Things which Paris encloses, and only to tell Forreigners▪ That they can never be able to understand the Beauty and Magnificence of it, till they have made a considerable stay in the Place; and that the most elevated Idea's which I could give 'em, by a more Copious Description and better Study'd, would come short of what they really are.

CHAP. XXI. Of the Places adjoyning to Paris.

AFter what I have said of the Gran∣deur, Beauty and Magnificence of Paris, 'twill be no hard matter to believe that the parts about it are ex∣treamly well peopled; There being Ten Thousand Boroughs, Villages or Castles within Ten Leagues round it. I shall only say something of the most

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Considerable places, not much caring for the Criticisms of those who shall censure me for not reporting faithfully all their Beauties. For I declare to 'em before hand, that I shall not engage to satisfie 'em with a Piece of Perfection. For in short, if a Man should go about to examine all the Wonders, Magni∣ficence and Riches of the Royal Seats not far from Paris, it would be enough to dazle his Eyes; nor can any Man Contemplate 'em without being ravish'd into Extasie.

Since the Reign of Lewis the Just, Versailles was no more then an Ordinary Castle, consisting of a Body of Lodg∣ings, accompani'd with two Wings, and ending in four Pavillons. But in 1661. the King proposing to himself to make some stay there, enlarg'd this Building with another much more Magnificent. At length in 1678, the Old Castle not appearing worthy the State and Gran∣deur of so Great a Monarch, it was pull'd down, to make room for ano∣ther more Superb: for the rearing of which, all the most Famous Masters in Europe for Architecture, Sculpture and Painting were sent for to display their utmost Skill. So that the Mag∣nificence

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of every Apartment out-does whatever there is of most rare in For∣reign Countries: Even the Stables of Versailles are more Magnificent and No∣bler then the Palaces of several Princes of Europe. There is a City built on two sides of the Castle with extraordi∣nary Symmetry. The Castle is of so large Extent, that not only all the Prin∣ces and Princesses of the Blood have Large and Convenient Lodgings within it, but also all the Ministers and Secre∣taries of State, and a great number of other Lords.

The Soil about Versailles is naturally dry and unpleasant. But Lewis the Great, has enforc'd Nature, as I may so say, to be more favourable to that Part which he had made choice of for his Residence. For the Earth not only produces all the Plants, the Fruits, the Flowers that grow in the most fertile places in the World, but by the benefit of the Aque∣ducts this place abounds so much in Water, that you would take it rather for a Sea, when all the Engins play, then for a Garden of Pleasure. And what is more particular and almost in∣credible, those Engins throw the Water up into the Air in different Fi∣gures.

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You shall perceive Galleries of Water, Triumphal Arches, Pavillions, Arbors, Theatres, Mountains, &c. The fairest Receptacles for Water, are those of Ceres, Flora, Apollo and Bacchus. The Banqueting-Hall, the Labyrinth, the Walk of Water, are Machines worthy the Curiosity of Strangers.

All this Water is drawn from the Sein, by the Assistance of a great num∣ber of Pumps ranvers'd, and carry'd to Versailles by the only Engin which is to be seen in Europe; being the Invention of the Sieurs de Ville and Ranequin. This Piece of Workman∣ship which may contend with the Seven Wonders of the World, con∣sists of Fourteen Wheels that have Eight and twenty Motions, which are caus'd by Twenty Chains, and Eight Water Engins, with which they force up the Water into an Aqueduct of Thirty six Arches seated upon the Top of a Mountain, and Five hundred and seventy Foot from the side of the Ri∣ver. All these Motions work Night and Day, there being no more then 18 Men, in three different Divisions to look after 'em. All people admire the Effects of the King's Glory and

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Grandeur, and the large extent of the Genius of those Artists who invented this Engin to the highest degree of Perfection.

They who will visit the Apartments of Versailles, the Gardens, the Park, the Place where all sorts of Strange Crea∣tures are kept; the Grotto's, the Laby∣rinths, and the Castle of Trianon, which is a real Jewel, all wrought within and without with Marble of divers colours, have need of Eight days time; neither will that suffice to view all these Wonders that surpass Ima∣gination.

The Castle of Merli, but a small League from Versailles, is another Royal Seat, whither the King goes usually twice a Month, to spend two or three days; during which time, he gives Au∣dience to no body, unless it be to his Ministers, and those that are sent for to Council, which his Majesty holds there, concerning the most Important Affairs of State.

Next to Versailles, St. German on Laie may dispute for Priority before all the other Royal Houses. This place is fa∣mous for the Birth of Lewis XIV. upon the 5th. of Septemb. 1638. He was bap∣tiz'd

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in the Old Castle the 21st. of April, 1643.

Besides the Regularity and Magni∣ficence of the Castle, there are the Gardens and Grotto's to be seen, adorn'd with a Thousand Figures of Water. Among the rest, in one of these Grot∣to's there is an Orpheus playing upon his Harp, and with the motion of his Head and his Body keeping time to his Instrument. He is also attend∣ed by a great number of Beasts that follow him, as being enchanted with the Melody of his Harp; which also draws after him Rocks, Trees and Plants. There is likewise Paradise, Hell, the Sea, and the Four Elements so livelily represented, that you would think your self in some Enchanted Place.

About a League from St. Germans, upon one side of Paris, you meet with the Traytors Wood, divided into two parts by a spacious High-Way. The Branches which you break off from one side of this Wood sink; but those which you break off from the other side swim in the Water. In this Wood it was that the Perfidious Ganelon con∣triv'd his Treason against the Peers

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of France, and all the great Captains of Charlemagne, which was put in Exe∣cution at the Battel of Roncevaux, so fa∣tal to France, in the Passage of the Pyre∣neans.

St. Clou is another very beautiful Royal Seat, belonging to Monsieur, the King's only Brother. It stands upon a Hill near the Banks of the River Seine, almost half way between Paris and Ver∣sailles. The Paintings are very Noble, the Furniture very Rich, and the Ca∣binet of China; wherein there are an infinite number of Curiosities, and vast Riches, is worthy the Grandeur and Magnificence of the Prince to whom it belongs.

As for the Castle of Madrit, Fran∣cis I. caus'd it to be built in the Wood of Boulogne, in memory of his being carry'd a Prisoner into Spain; to let the Spaniards understand, that he held it for no shame to have been made a Pri∣soner of War at the Head of his Army; which had never befall'n him, had he contented himself to Command in his Cabinet, as the Kings of Spain do. They who believe this Castle to be built after the same form as that, where this Mo∣narch was kept in durance, are much de∣ceiv'd;

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for it is little or nothing like it. It is nothing so magnificent now as for∣merly; and the little care that is tak'n to repair it, shews that the King has no great Fancy for the Seat, nor minds whether it go to ruin or no.

The Castle of Vincennes is considera∣ble, as being the Place where Prisoners of War of great Quality are Confin'd; and many times Prisoners of State; witness the Princes of Conde and Conti, and the Duke of Longueville, in the Time of Cardinal Mazarin. It is very large, and flank'd with Eight great Towers. Here are kept the Chains of the Streets of Paris; which Charles VI. took away after he had chastiz'd that City for her Rebellion.

Fountainbleau, is another Royal Seat, so call'd from the great number of Springs in that place. It lyes about Twelve Leagues from Paris: and in regard it is a Country proper for Hunt∣ing, the Court spends a great part of the Autumn in this Place. This Castle is very large, as being said to contain Nine hundred Chambers, Halls, Cabinets or Galleries; where Art has quite exhaust∣ed her self to render every thing wor∣thy the Residence of our Monarchs.

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At Fontainbleau it was where Marshal Biron was disarm'd by the King's Or∣der; and where Cardinal Perron and the Sieur du Plessis-Mornai met in the Presence of Hen. 4. to Dispute upon Matters of Religion; which drew thi∣ther the most Learned of both Parties: and 'tis said, that when the two Dispu∣tants could not agree, the King addres∣sing himself to the Cardinal, ask'd him, Whether all those that were separated from the Roman Church were damn'd? His Eminency and the rest of the Ca∣tholick Doctors, assur'd him, That there was nothing more certain. After which, the K. demanding from those of the Pro∣testant Party, whether it were a Point of their Doctrine, that there was no Salva∣tion for those that were not of their Communion? They made answer, 'Twas none of their Opinion; for that they thought the Mercy of God might ex∣tend to all Men. That being so, reply'd the King, 'tis my Judgment to choose the Certainty before the Ʋncertainty: and so turn'd Roman Catholick.

Chantilli is a fair Seat belonging to Monsieur the Prince, whither the Court often goes for the Recreation of Hunt∣ing. It is an Epitome of Art and Na∣ture.

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'Tis observ'd, that Hen. IV. be∣ing to Answer a Letter which he had receiv'd from the K. of Spain, cramm'd full of Titles, not only of the King∣doms which the Kings of Spain, and their Ancestors possess'd, but of those they never had; as also of Ter∣ritories in the New World, not yet discover'd; took upon him no other Titles, but only Citizen of Paris, and Lord of Chantilli. And there is much the same Story of Francis I. who write∣ing to Charles V. fill'd the first Page with only these words repeated, King of France, King of France; adding on∣ly at the lower end, Lord of Ʋauvre and Gonesse.

I shall say nothing of an Infinite Number of other Beautiful Seats and Houses of Pleasure in the Parts ad∣joyning to Paris, as Ruel, Meudon, Con∣flans, Seaux, &c. which are all fit for the Entertainment of Kings, whether in respect of their Bigness or Magnifi∣cence. It remains that I now say some∣thing of St. Denis, the Burying-place of our Monarchs; for which I design a par∣ticular Chapter. Only before I conclude this, I must not omit to tell yee, that there is at Alincourt near Paris, the Tomb

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of a Mother and her Children that gave Occasion to this Epitaph.

Here lyes the Son, here lyes the Mother, Here lyes the Daughter with the Father, Here lyes the Sister and the Brother, Here lyes the Husband, here the Wife; All but Three Body's, on my Life.

To Expound this Riddle, you must know, That a certain Young Stripling importun'd his Mothers Maid to grant him you may guess what; who told her Mistress, the Mother of the Young Man and a Widow. She order'd the Servant to give him a Meeting in her Chamber, where the Mother put her self in place of the Maid; and having had the Company of her Son with∣out discovering who she was, at Nine Months end was brought to Bed of a Daughter; which she put out till she came to such an Age, and then sent for her home. The Son in the mean time had been Travelling for several Years, but then returning Home and finding the Young Virgin, which his Mother said was an Or∣phan, to be very pretty, Marry'd her; and so of his Daughter and his

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Sister made her his Wife. The Young Couple dy'd before the Mother, who then discover'd the Secret, and would needs be Interr'd in the same Tomb.

CHAP. XXII. Of St. Denis.

ST. Denis is a small City in the Island of France, Six Miles from Paris. It was formerly call'd Catuliaca; but was call'd St. Denis, from St. Denis the Are∣opagite, who being Beheaded at Mont∣martre, carry'd his Head in his Hands as far as Catuliaque; that is to say, a∣bout a League and a half. King Dago∣bert Erected a very stately Church in this place, Three hundred Foot in Length, Two hundred Broad, and Fourscore Foot High, supported by Sixty Pillars. 'Tis now a Royal Ab∣by of the Benedictin Order; where∣in are kept all the Ornaments for the Coronation of our Kings; which do not a little augment the Lustre and Riches of the Treasury of this Abby. The Church is also Famous for being the Burying-Place of our Monarchs,

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and of all the Royal Family. Here follows a Catalogue of the Kings and Queens whose Tombs are to be seen in the Church of St. Denis.

  • Dagobert, who dy'd in the Year 638
  • Clovis the Second. 656
  • Clotaire III. 664
  • Thieri I. 690
  • Clotaire IV. 720
  • Childeric III. a Monk.
  • Pepin the Short. 768
  • Charles the Bald. 877
  • Lewis III. 882
  • Charlemane 884
  • Eudes. 898
  • Hugh Capet. 997
  • Robert. 1033
  • Henry I. 1060
  • Philip I. 1131
  • Lewis VI. 1137
  • Philip II. 1223
  • Lewis VIII. 1226
  • Lewis IX. Sirnam'd the Saint. 1270
  • Philip III. 1285
  • Philip IV. 1314
  • Lewis X. 1316
  • John I. 1316
  • Philip V. 1322
  • Charles IV. 1328
  • ...

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  • ... Philip VI. de Valois. 1350
  • John II. 1364
  • Charles V. 1380
  • Charles VI. 1422
  • Charles VII. 1461
  • Charles VIII. 1498
  • Lewis XII. 1515
  • Francis I. 1547
  • Henry II. 1559
  • Francis II. 1560
  • Charles IX. 1574
  • Henry III. 1589
  • Henry IV. 1610
  • Lewis XIII. 1643
A Catalogue of the Queens that lye Buried at St. Denis's.
  • Nantild, the Wife of Dagobert.
  • Bertha, the Wife of Pepin.
  • Hermintrude, the Wife of Charles the Bald.
  • Constance, the Wife of Robert.
  • Margaret, the Wife of St. Lewis.
  • Isabel, the Wife of Philip III.
  • Joane of Eureux, the Wife of Charles IV.
  • Joane, the Wife of Philip VI.
  • Joane, Queen of Navarre.
  • Joane, Wife of Charles VI.
  • Marie, Wife of Charles VII.
  • ...

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  • ... Clandia, Wife of Francis I.
  • Blanch, Second Wife of Philip VI.
  • Ann of Bretaigne, Wife of Lewis XII.
  • Catherine de Medicis, Wife of Hen. II.
  • Margaret, Queen of Navarre.
  • Mary de Medicis, Wife of Hen. IV.
  • Ann of Austria, Wife of Lewis XIII.
  • Henrietta Maria, Queen of England.
  • Mary Teresa of Austria, Wife of Le∣wis XIV. And,
  • Marie Ann, Christina, Victoria, Dau∣phiness of France, who deceas'd in 1690.

I do not here insert the Tombs of the Children of France, nor those of the Princes and Princesses of the Blood, nor of those of the Bodies of the Saints that lye in this Church, for fear of be∣ing too tedious; believing moreover, that the Reader will take more delight to peruse the following Inventory of the most remarkable things that are to be seen in the Treasury of St. Denis's, which makes so great a noise in the World, and which alone draws thi∣ther such an infinite number of For∣reigners.

Before I ascend into the Room wherein this Treasure is lockt up,

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there is to be seen above the Chief Altar, a Cross of Gold seven foot high, enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Ori∣ental Pearl.

A Table of Gold five foot long, and three foot high, in the middle of which is to be seen our Saviour in Relief, together with six Apostles and four An∣gels, the whole of Gold, enrich'd with Pretious Stones and Oriental Pearls, a Sea Agate, a Topaze, and two admirable Grenates.

Another Cross of Gold six foot high, adorn'd with Pretious Stones.

So soon as you come into the Great Room, entring in upon the Right, you meet with in the first Cup-board or Press,

A great Cross of massy Gold cover'd with Rubies, Saphirs, Emeraulds, and Oriental Pearls; and under the Croison, a piece of Wood, which as they say, is a piece of the Real Cross, about a foot and a half long.

A Shrine of Gold enclosing a Cruci∣fix made of the same Wood, by the hands of Clement III.

The Oratory of Philip the August, en∣rich'd with an Infinite Number of Pre∣tious Stones, which encloses Thirty

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four sorts of Reliques; among which are reck'nd one of the Thorns of our Saviour's Crown▪ The Spunge, with which they gave him Vinegar and Gall; A piece of his Garment; A Viol full of the Blood and Water which issu'd from his Side; and some of the Myrrh which the Magi offer'd.

One of the Nails, with which our Saviour was fasten'd to the Cross.

And Image of the Holy Virgin▪ gilt and enamell'd, which holds in one hand a Shrine containing her own Hair, and some pieces of her Garments.

Another of the same, holding ano∣ther Casket, wherein are preserv'd the Linnen made use of in Burying our Saviour.

An Image of the same Metal of St. John the Evangelist, with one of his Teeth.

A Shrine of Gold, containing as they assure us, the Bones of several Saints.

An Arm-bone of St. Eustachius.

Such another Bone of St. Simeon in a Shrine of Gold enchac'd with Pretious Stone.

One of the Pitchers of Cana in Ga∣lilee.

The two Crowns made use of at the

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Coronation of Hen. IV. one of which is of Gold, the other enamell'd.

The Scepter, and the Hand of Justice in Silver, of the same King.

This Hand of Justice, is a hand at the top of a Rod, held by the King as a Mark of Soveraignty.

Two costly Mitres of Abbots; one of which is adorn'd with an Embellish∣ment of Pretious Stones upon a Ground of Pearls.

A fair Crosier, once an Abbots, and a Battoon of Silver gilt, enrich'd with Pretious Stones.

In the Second Press or Ambrie.

An enamell'd Image of St. Hilary, en∣rich'd with Pretious Stones and Pearls.

A great Cross of massy Gold, enrich'd with Grenates, Saphirs and Pearls.

A Shrine of Silver gilt, with a Fin∣ger Flesh and Bone, of St. Bartholomew.

Another of the same, with the Shoul∣der Bone, as they say, of John the Baptist.

A Cross silver gilt, with a piece of the real Cross.

An Image silver gilt of St. Denis of Areopagus.

Another of the same of St. Nicholas.

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Another of the same of St. Katherine.

An Eye of St. Leger, Bishop of Autun.

A Shrine silver gilt, enclosing the Reliques of the Prophet Isaiah.

Another of the same, with a Bone of St. Pantaleon.

Another of Chrystal, with the Hair and Garments of St. Margerie.

Another of Silver, containing the Leprosie which Christ took from the Leper mention'd in the Gospel.

An Eagle of Gold enrich'd with Pre∣tious Stones, which serv'd for a Clasp for K. Dagobert's Cloak.

Dagobert's Scepter of Gold enamell'd.

An Oriental Jacinth.

The two Crowns of Lewis XIII. the one of Gold, the other enamell'd.

An enamell'd Crown made use of at the Funeral Pomp of Ann of Austria.

An Image of our Lady in Ivory, en∣rich'd with Pretious Stones.

A Missal in Manuscript, the Cover of which is enrich'd with Plates of Gold.

A Manuscript of the Four Evange∣lists, written above Eleven hundred Years ago, in Letters of Gold and Sil∣ver, upon Purple Vellum.

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In the Third Ambrie.

The Head of St. Denis enrich'd with Pretious Stones: His Cross of Wood all cover'd with Gold and Precious Stones, as also his Travelling Stick.

The right Hand, Flesh and Bone, of the Apostle St. Thomas, in a Shrine of Gold, enrich'd with Pearls, Rubies, and great Pearls.

An enamell'd Shrine, where through a Christal you see the Lower Chap of St. Lewis.

The Crown of the same St. Lewis, of massy Gold, beset with Pretious Stones.

A Seal of Gold with a Saphir Stone, wherein his Image is engrav'd with these Letters, S. L.

A Sword which he brought in his first Expedition from the Holy Land.

A wooden Cup of Tamarisk wherein he drank.

A Shrine which he carried along with him in his Expeditions, with a Bone of St. Denis.

His Hand of Justice, of Silver gilt.

The Clasp of his Cloak of the same, beset with Pretious Stones.

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A Chalice of Oriental Agate, with a great number of Pretious Stones.

The Effigies of the Queen of Sheba upon a Brouch of Agate.

A Gondola of Agate and Onyx.

The two Crowns of Lewis XIV. the one of Gold, the other enamell'd.

In the Fourth Ambrie.

A great Image, Silver gilt of St. Be∣nedict, extreamly Rich.

A great Cross of massy Gold, cover'd with Pearl, and enrich'd with large Saphirs.

The Oratory of Charlemain, all of Gold, where the multitudes of Saphirs, Emraulds, Agates, and Oriental Pearls that glitter in it, vastly enhaunce the Price of it. This Oratory preserves an Arm of St. George.

The Crown of Charlemain, all of Gold, and embellish'd like the Oratory. This Crown is carry'd to Reims, at the Coronation of our Kings; with the Scepter, the Hand of Justice, the Spurs, the Clasp for the Mantle▪ the Book of Ceremonies, and Prayers for the Coro∣nation. All the Ornaments are of that Richness as befits the Use which is made of 'em.

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The Crown of Gold that Joane of Eureux were, enrich'd with Rubies, Saphirs and Pearl, serves for the Coro∣nation of the Queens that is Perform'd at St. Denis.

Several Vessels of Gold, Chrystal, and other Materials very Rich.

The Portraiture of Nero upon an Agate; which is look'd upon as one of the Noblest Pieces of Curiosity in the Treasury.

In other Cupboards in General.

There are moreover Four other Am∣bries, which do not contain such vast Wealth, but only Reliques or Anti∣quities; of which these are the most considerable.

An enamell'd Shrine, embellish'd with Pretious Stones, wherein lyes the Body of St. Lewis.

Judas's Lanthorn; the Sword of the Maid of Orlean's; a Unicorn's Horn, seven foot long; and a Stool of Cop∣per, which, as they say, was Dagobert's Throne.

Beside all these things of which I have given you a Catalogue, there are several other things very remarkable,

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which I insert not here, for fear of be∣ing Tedious; and therefore to conclude this Chapter, I shall only inform the Reader, that the Monks who shew the Treasury, very distinctly give an ac∣compt of every thing, and tell you the time and the occasion that all these Curiosities were brought to this Place.

CHAP. XXIII. Of Normandy, and the Country of Maine.

NOrmandy is a very fair large Pro∣vince of France, with the Title of a Dukedom, bounded Eastward by the Island of France and Picardy; by the Ocean to the North; by Bretagne to the West, and Beausse and le Maine to the South. The length of it is Seventy two Leagues (de la Croix says 73. from Aumale to the Coast of Courantin) and Thirty in breadth (37. says de la Croix from Alenson to the City of Eu). The Name of it is absolutely German; for Noort-Man, signifies a Man of the North: so that the Name it bears was given it by the People of the North, that Pi∣pirated

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upon the Seas, and afterwards settl'd themselves in Normandy, and ravag'd the Country to the very Walls of Paris. William the Norman laid Claim to England, and Invading it under Pre∣tence of Title, his Successors Kings of England, became Masters of Normandy. But Philip the August united it to the Crown of France, & Charles the Seventh expell'd the English.

This Province being the most Nor∣thern part of the Kingdom is also the Goldest. It is divided into Upper and Lower. It abounds in all sorts of Fruit, especially Pears and Apples, of which they make Cider, and which serves 'em instead of Wine; for Wine they have none but what they fetch from the Neighbouring Provinces. As for Corn, it produces more then suffices the In∣habitants. The Dyers also have their Madder and Woad from thence. The Humour of the Common People does 'em no great Credit: They are look'd upon to have more defects then Perfe∣ctions.

The Normans are accus'd to be very cholerick, litigious upon every Trifle, and not to be too great Slaves to their words, when their Interest is concern'd.

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So then, when you deal with a Nor∣man, the first Question is, whether he will insist upon the Privileges of the Country; that is to say, whether he will go from his word, when the Bar∣gain is concluded. And therefore when a Man has fail'd of his word, 'tis a com∣mon thing to say, He is a Norman. But the Gentry and Persons well educated, who have a share of Honour, are to be excepted out of this Number. More∣over, they have as great an Antipathy against the Bretons, as the Bretons have against them.

Rouen is the Principal City of Nor∣mandy, dignify'd with an Archbishop's See, and the Seat of a Parliament, a Chamber of Accompts, an Audit of the Treasurers of France, a Chamber of Money and a Presidial Court. The Par∣liament had that Name given it first of all by Francis I. in 1515. whereas be∣fore it was call'd the Court of Exche∣quer, founded by Philip the Fair in 1286. This City is seated upon the Banks of the River Seine, on the one side, on the other in a Valley environ'd with Hills thick spread with Wood. From the East come little Rivers, which run through the Town, keep the Streets

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clean, and after they have turn'd seve∣ral Mills, fall into the Seine. But the nearness of it to the Sea, is that which makes it a Town of great Trade when Commerce is open. Among those things which it has most remarkable, we are to admire the Bridge of Boats over the Seine, Two hundred and seventy Paces in length. For though it be all Pav'd, and appear as firm as a Bridge of Stone; yet it rises and sinks according to the Ebbing and Flowing of the Sea. This Bridge was made to supply the want of another Stone Bridge of 15 Arches that was ruin'd, and was accompted one of the Fairest Bridges in France.

The Castle is fortified with Eleven great Towers, which all Vessels out∣ward or inward bound, are engag'd to salute with Three Guns at a time. The Fortifications are Regular and of good defence.

The Cathedral is consecrated to the Holy Virgin; wherein are to be seen several Mausoleum's of the Dukes of Normandy, with a Treasury in the Ve∣stry; which was much more considera∣ble before the Huguenots plunder's it during the Civil Wars of the last Age. There are three Towers that serve in∣stead

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of a Steeple; one of which is so high, that you must ascend Five hun∣dred and fifty Steps, before you come at the great Bell, which is call'd George d' Amboise, by reason it was made by the Order of the Cardinal d' Amboise. Over the Portal of this Cathedral is to be seen a Triumphal Arch, where Henry IV. is represented chasing the Lions and the Wolves out of his Sheep-Fold; the League en∣chain'd and gnawing her Chains; and the King of Spain beholding all these Trophies with a Pensive and Melancho∣ly look.

There are very fair Structures at Rouen, as well Sacred as Prophane, which are marks of her Antiquity, and Stran∣gers always go to see the Place where the English burnt the Maid of Orleance.

Normandy is blest with several other good Ports; as that of St. Valeri, which is a very Commodious Haven. But Diepe is much the Stronger. This City is seated at the Foot of the Mountains from whence the River of Arques takes its rise; which separates the Suburbs from the City. The Castle of Pollet Commands the Haven, and a Cittadel defends the other side of the Town.

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The Streets are large, adorn'd with se∣veral Churches and Market-Places. The Haven brings it a good Trade, and the Seamen have gain'd a Reputation in the World; for that the Best Sea-Compas∣ses, and the most Exact Quadrants, are there said to be made. The Inhabi∣tants also were the first that wrought in Ivory and Tortoise-Shell. They are also Excellent and very quick at the Riming Exercises, call'd Jeux Floraux, where the best doer is rewarded with an Eglantine, the Second with a Mari∣gold in Silver; which Sports are usual in this Town at Christmas, and the Fe∣stival of the Assumption.

Havre de Grace is also a considerable Sea Town, situated at the Mouth of the River Seine, and is lookt upon to be one of the Havens in France, upon St. George's Channel. Francis I. began to fortifie it; but the Huguenots having seiz'd it, deliver'd it up to the English in 1562. from whom Charles IX. re∣took it; Lewis XIII. added a Cittadel to it, flank'd with four Bastions: But Lewis XIV. compleated the Work, and has made it impregnable by regular Fortifications. In times of Peace with England and Holland, it drives a great Trade.

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Evreux is a very ancient City, digni∣fy'd with a Bishop's See, a Bailliage and a Presidial Court, and adorn'd with a good number of Churches and Religi∣ous Houses; among which, the Abbies of St. Thurin, and St. Saviour are very remarkable. Several Princes of the Blood, and other great Lords, have been Counts of Evreux; and it is said, that Walter and Robert d' Evreux Earls of Essex in England, came originally from this place.

Caen, seated upon the River Orne, is not so famous for the Antiquity of it, as for the Privileges and Variety of Tribunals that it enjoys. For it is dig∣nify'd with a Presidial Court, a Bailli∣age, an Election, a Generality, an Au∣dit of the Finances, and a University for the Civil and Canon Law there founded in 1411. by Hen. VI. King of England. It has had the same Fate with other Cities of Normandy, as having suffer'd very much during the Trou∣bles that shook the French Monarchy in the 16th Age. However the Town-House built upon St. Peter's Bridge is a noble Structure adorn'd with four large Towers. The People boast of their Fi∣delity to their Prince, for which reason

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they are permitted to bear the Three Flower-de-Luces in their Arms. Wil∣liam the Norman King of England, lyes Buried in St. Stephen's Abby, which was one of his own Foundations.

Mount St. Michael, is a Town built at the Foot of a Mountain, on the top of which stands a Church and an Abby consecrated to St. Michael the Arch-Angel. For the Story goes, that in the Year 708. St. Michael appear'd to Aubert Bishop of Avranches, and told him, 'Twas the Will of God that a Church should be built upon the Hill, and dedicated to him in particular. Upon the same Mount stands also a very fair Castle. The flowing in of the Sea makes a perfect Island of it, co∣vering for near a League together all the Land between the Mount and the firm Land; which the Ebb soon after leaves dry agen. Nevertheless, they who Travel thither, must be very ex∣act in observing the Time of the Motion of the Water; for if they should be surpriz'd in that sandy Plain, they would run the risque of being Drown'd; which many times falls out. This place is famous for the resort of Pilgrims to St. Michael; and for the

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Sand of which they make Salt, by straining the Sea-water through it. In 966, Richard I founded the Abby of the Benedictins, and his Son Richard II. finish'd the Church.

Maine is a Province dignify'd with the Title of a Dutchy, border'd by Nor∣mandy to the North; by Perche, Vendo∣mois and La Beausse to the East; Bretagne to the West; and by Tourain and Anjou to the South. This Province is fruitful in Wine, Corn, Fruit and Cattle; and has some Iron Mines. The same defects are attributed to the Manceaux, as to the Normans: and as to their exactness in keeping their words, it is become a Proverb, That a Manceau is worth a Norman and a half.

The Capital City of this Province is Mans, seated upon the Banks of the River Sarte, dignify'd with a Presidial Court and a Bishop's See. This City is very Ancient, and is thought to have been one of the most considera∣ble Cities of the Gauls in the time of Charlemagne. It is said to have been built by Sarthon, Grandchild to Samo∣thes King of the Gauls; but being de∣stroy'd by the Druids and the Sarrho∣nides, it was repair'd by Le Mant, K. of

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the Gauls; who gave it his own Name. But however it were, there is nothing now remaining but only some few Ruins of what formerly render'd it so famous.

CHAP. XXIV. Of Picardy.

PIcardy is a very large Province, having Champagne to the East; the Island of France to the South; Normandy and part of Mance or the Ocean to the West; Artois and Flanders to the North. It is fertile in Corn and Fruits. But as for the People, 'tis said they are ge∣nerally hot-headed, and being apt to take Snuff upon every Trifle, Men are willing to avoid their Compa∣ny for fear of running themselves into Quarrels that are often attended with fatal Consequences.

Amiens upon the Somme dignify'd with a Bishoprick, a Presidial Court, a Bail∣liage and a Generality, is the Capital City of Picardy, and has been taken several times in the preceding Wars: among the rest, the Spaniards took it

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with a Bag of Nuts in the Month of March 1597. as the Learned M. Har∣douin, formerly Tutor to the King, in∣forms us in his History of Henry the Great: For the Spaniards, then Masters of Artois, understanding that Amiens was only guarded by the Citizens, laid a Design to surprize it. To which pur∣pose, by the favour of the Night, they laid a Party of Souldiers in Ambuscado near the City; and so soon as the Gates were open'd, they order'd other Soul∣diers, in the Habit of Peasants, to drive several Carts to Market; of which one being laden with Nuts, they let a Sack fall, as if it had been by Accident, in the Gate; upon which the Nuts tumbling out, and the Guards being no less busie upon the Scramble, the suppos'd Peasants stopp'd up the Gate with their Carts, while the Spaniards that lay in Ambush advanc'd and seiz'd upon the City. But they did not keep it long; for Hen. IV. re∣took it by main force within a few Months after; and built a Cittadel to secure it for the future from the like Mischances. There is now to be seen upon one of the Gates this Distich.

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Amiens was taken by Fox-like Craft, and retaken by Lion-like Force.

The Cathedral is a Noble Structure; the Body of the Church being lookt upon to be the most beautiful in the whole Kingdom. It is dedicated to the Holy Virgin; and the Treasury that belongs to it is very Rich; where a∣mong other things is preserv'd the Head of John the Baptist in a Shrine set all with Pretious Stones, and brought from Constantinople by one Vallon de Sarton, a Gentleman of Picardy. The Pillars, the Quire, the Chappels, the Tombs, the Paintings, the Place for the Singing Men, the Portal, over which are two great Towers adorn'd with above a Thousand Statues, are all admir'd by Travellers. In ancient time, Caesar made it a Magazine for his Army; and held an Assembly of the Gauls in this City. The Emperor Antoninus and M▪ Aurelius, his Son, much enlarg'd it; and the Emperors Constantine, Con∣stans, Julian, Valentinian, Valens, Gra∣tian and Theodosius made choice of it for the Place of their Residence among the Gauls. Queen Isabel of Bavaria,

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settl'd a Parlament in this City; but now the Bishop, the Vidame and the Bailli are Chief in Authority next the King.

The other Principal Cities of Picardy are Soissons, Laon and Noyen, all three Episcopal Sees. For the last of which the Huguenots have a great Veneration, as being the place of Calvin's Nati∣vity.

Corbie, is a place of strength sur∣priz'd by the Spaniards in 1636. but soon after regain'd by the French. And the Story goes, That being press'd by the K. of France's Army, the Spaniards wrote to Prince Thomas, then General of the Spanish Army in these words, Fiat misericordia tua, Domine, super nos, quemadmodum speravimus in te, Let thy Mercy be shewn us, Lord, as we have, put our Trust in thee.

Senlis is also an Episcopal City, with a Presidial Court. In the Parts adjoyn∣ing to it, stand several stately Houses of Pleasure; as Vernueil, Chantilli, Dreux and Anet; which is a Palace becoming the Residence of a King, and whither the Dauphin often retires for the Pa∣stime of Hunting▪ Among the Won∣ders of this Castle, great Observation is

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to be taken of the Clock. For when it is ready to strike, you shall see about Fifteen or Eighteen Hounds of Brass come out and open with a full Cry; after which, follows a Stag of the same Metal, bigger then the life, and strikes the Hour with his Foot.

Usually Bourbonnois and the County of Oie is joyn'd to Picardy. The first owns Boulogne for the Capital City; the other Calais.

Boulogne is seated upon the Streight of Calais; being a Bishop's See, with a County and a Bailliage. The Cathe∣dral Church is consecrated to our Lady; and to which the Kings of France, at their first coming to the Crown, are by Custom oblig'd to offer a Heart of massy Gold, weighing 2000 Crowns. Lewis XI. was so devoted to the Holy Virgin, that he would needs have the Count of Artois hold of our Lady of Boulogne and not of him. In 1544. the English besieg'd and took it, but it was restor'd again to the French, by the Peace concluded in 1550.

Calais is a Town seated upon the Narrowest part of the Streight be∣tween England and France, built in a Triangular Form, defended by a good

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Castle, having no access to it from the Land, but over a Causey that crosses a great Marsh or Fenn; and you must have the Permission of the Garrison of Risban to enter the Port. The most remarkable things in this Town are the two Towers, the Altar of the great Church, the rich Tabernacle, and the stately Domo. It was tak'n by Edward III. of England, and re∣main'd in Possession of the English 210 Years, till the Reign of Queen Mary. History observes, that when the French had expell'd the English, one of the Duke of Guise's Officers cry'd to an English Man in a jeering manner, When will you come agen? To whom the other reply'd, When the Measure of your Sins is full, and that we are less Wicked then you. In∣timating thereby, that the English would never set foot there agen, so long as the French Nation▪ continu'd well united to their Head.

Abbeville, seated upon the River Somme, is one of the strongest and most Important Places of France. She has all along preserv'd her Pri∣vileges, and is call'd the Faithful and the Maiden; because she was never

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taken. The Somme brings up Barks to the very Middle of the Town.

CHAP. XXV.

CHampaigne, dignify'd with the Ti∣tle of an Earldom, is bounded by Lorrain and part of Franche Conté; to the West it has Picardy and the Island of France; Burgundy to the South, and Hainault and Luxemburgh to the North. The Extent of it from North to South is 70 Leagues (67 says de la Croix) that is to say, from Ravieres to Rocroy; and from West to South-East 47 Leagues. It abounds in Corn and Cattel; and the Wine which it pro∣duces, is extreamly desir'd at the Tables of Princes and great Lords. The Champenois are somewhat Opinio∣nated; nevertheless, they are irrecon∣cileable Enemies of Libertinism and Impiety.

Rheimes, the Capital City of this fair Province may vaunt it self to be one of the fairest and most famous in the Kingdom. For her Archbishop has the Advantage of being the First Duke and Peer of France. The Ca∣thedral

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of this City is dedicated to our Lady, adorn'd with the most noble Front of any Cathedral in France, and the most admir'd for the Architecture, the Figures and Base Reliefs that ren∣der it so Gorgeous. In this Church it is that the Archbishop of Rheims Crowns the Kings of France with the Holy Oil, sent from Heaven to Crown Clo∣vis I. the First King of France. The Antiquity of it appears by the Inscrip∣tions of the Names of the Pagan Dei∣ties upon the Gates, and Caesar's Fort close by the City; which is also the seat of a Presidial Court, a Bailliage, and a University founded by Charles of Lorrain, Archbishop of the City by the Permission of Hen. II. and the Ap∣probation of Paul III.

Chalon's may pass for the second City of Champaigne for the beauty of the Streets, Market-Places, and Buildings, and the Antiquity of it; for that in the time of Julian the Apostate, it was look'd upon as one of the Principal Cities of Belgick Gaul. The Cathedral is remarkable for the Tower that a∣dorns it very large and very high. There is also in this City a Generality and a Presidial Court.

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Troyes is another very fair City, and very Ancient, with a Presidial Seat and a Bailliage. The Cathedral is consecrated to St. Peter, wherein are preserv'd many pretious Curiosities. Among the rest, they pretend to shew yee some Locks of Christ's Hair; one of the Dishes made use of at the Last Supper; a Tooth of St. Peter's; and the Body of St. Helena, which still appears to be fresh.

Charleville has this peculiar to it, that though the Duke of Mantua be Sove∣raign Lord of the City; yet the Gates, the Walls, and the Castle of Mount Olympus belong to the King of France.

Sens, seated upon the Confluence of the Seine and the Yonne, is the Seat of an Archbishop; and a City both large, beautiful and very ancient. The Ca∣thedral of St. Stephens is very remarka∣ble for the Front of it, adorn'd with variety of Figures, and two Stately Towers; for the Largeness of the Body of the Church, for the Richness of the Chappels, the Antiquity of the Tombs, the Base of the Cheif Altar; where is to be seen upon a Table of Gold, enrich'd with a great Number of Pretious Stones, a Representation of

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the Four Evangelists; and in the mid∣dle, a St. Steven kneeling. To this City also belongs a Presidial Court, and a Bailliage.

There are several other Cities in this Province of Champaign, as Lan∣gres, Auxerre, &c. of which I omit to say any thing in particular, in regard I never propos'd to my self to make a particular Description of all the Ci∣ties of France, designing only an account of what is most worthy the Curious View of a Traveller.

CHAP. XXVI.

IN regard our Monarch has United the Dutchy of Lorrain to his Crown, whether by right of Conquest, or by vertue of a Donation and Resignation which Charles III. made to His Majesty in 1662, I find my self bound to add in this place a short Description of it. It is bounded by Champaigne to the West, by Luxemburgh to the North, by the Rhine to the East, and by Burgundy to the South. It extends it self Forty Leagues from East to West, and as many from South to North. It was the Allot∣ment

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that fell to Lothair, who gave it his Name, and the Germans still call it Luttheringe. The People have been al∣ways accompted Warlike, and at this day the Lorrainers are look'd upon to be good Souldiers.

Nanci, seated in the Middle of a Plain, with a Chamber of Accompts, and a Seneschalship, is the Chief City of Lorrain; where formerly the Dukes kept their Courts.

The City of Metz is very Ancient, as being formerly the Capital of the Medromatrices; it is the Seat of a Bishop, and Lewis XIII. honour'd it with a Par∣lament in 1633, which renders it the most Considerable of any in the whole Province. The Cathedral is Consecra∣ted to St. Stephen, where there is to be seen a Vessel of Red Porphyrie, all of one piece, above Ten foot long, where∣in the Holy Water is put.

This Province abounds in all sorts of Cattle; and is furnish'd with Salt-Pits. It affords also Mines of Iron and Lead; and at the foot of the Mountain Volege, the People find Pearls, Azure Stones, and Materials for good Looking-Glasses. Toul & Verdune are also both Bishopricks. And this is all I have at present to say

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of Lorrain. For as for the Conquer'd Countries, I have a design, God willing, to treat of 'em in a Particular Volume, under the Title of The Conquests of Lewis the Great. I shall only observe, that under the Conquer'd Countries, I Com∣prehend Artois, Luxemburg, Hainault, the County of Namur, and part of Flan∣ders; of which the Principal Cities are Arras, Cambrai, Tournai, Douai, Valen∣ciennes, Lisle, Dunkirk, Luxemburgh, Mons and Namur; all which Impregna∣nable Places are in the hands of the French.

The End of the First Tome.
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