Voyages and travels over all Europe Containing all that is most curious in that part of the world. In eight tomes. Done out of French.

CHAP. XII. Of the City of Rome, and the Curiosities there∣in contain'd.

ROME, formerly the Metropolis of a Fa∣mous Empire, and now the Chief City of Christendom, is-without contradiction the most Fa∣mous City of the Ʋniverse. Her Fame is spread abroad to all the most distant parts of the World, where she has manifestly made appear the puissance of her Arms, and the Prowess of her Governors. Men may easily judge of the Strength and Power of the Ancient Romans, when they find that their Armies consisted of be∣tween Two hundred and fifty and Three hun∣dred thousand Men; when they had about 1500 Gallies, and an infinite number of other Ves∣sels: And Lastly, That the bounds of their Empire were Euphrates, Mount Taurus, and Arme∣nia Eastward; Aethiopia Southward; the Danaw to the North; and the Ocean to the West. She

has now acquir'd the Epithite of Holy, not only because she has been Dy'd with the Blood of an infinite number of Martyrs, but because She is now the usual Residence of the Popes, accounted the visible Heads of the Roman Apostolical Church.

This Famous City was Founded in the Year of the World 3301. by Remus and Romulus, who were the Grand-children by Rhea Sylvia their Mother (for their Father is not known) of Numitor King of Albania: which has giv'n an occasion to the Historians, to publish 'em to po∣sterity for the Sons of Mars, because their Mo∣ther was found to be big with Child, thô She were in the number of the Vestal Virgins. These Two Founders could not agree about the Name, which they should give their City: For some Authors will have it, that at first it was call'd Valencia; but the Disputes between the Two Brothers being reconcil'd, or rather determin'd in favour of Romulus, he gave it the Name of Rome, and was the First of the Seven Kings that Govern'd it. After which, she had Con∣suls till Julius Caesar, who was the First Emperor of Rome.

Thô this City has been Sackt and Burnt an infinite number of times, as well by Foreigners as by her own Citizens, yet has she been so for∣tunate, as still to preserve some Lovely Remains of her Antiquity and Magnificence. However, She is neither so potent, nor so spacious as for∣merly She was; since History assutes us, That once She was above Thirty Miles in compass, whereas now She incloses no more then 23050

common Paces, and 360 Towres within the Cir∣cuit of her Walls and Suburbs. She had for∣merly thirty Gates, which occasion'd as many High Roads that lead to 'em, which are still pav'd with great Stones, and in many places a∣dorn'd with Marble Pillars set up at every Miles end. And it was in those High-ways, all along, that they Enterr'd their Dead; there being a Law which forbids Burials in the City. Now there are not above Nineteen Gates; of which we shall give you both the Ancient and Modern Names.

1. La Porta del Popolo, formerly Flaminia

2. Sancta Merodia's Gate, formerly Gabiosa.

3. La Porta Piciana, formerly Colatina.

4. The Latin Gate, formerly Terentia.

5. La Porta Agonia, formerly Quirinalis.

6. St. Sebastian's Gate, formerly Capena.

7. St. Agnes's Gate formerly Viminalis.

8. St. Paul's, or Ostia-Gate, formerly Trige∣mina.

9. La Porta Ripa, formerly Portuensis.

10. St. Laurence's Gate, formerly Esquilina.

11. St. Pancrace's Gate, formerly Aurelia and Septima.

12. The Porta Maggiore, formerly Nevia.

13. La Porta Septimiana, formerly Fontinalis.

14. St. John's Gate, or Coeliomontana.

15. The Vatican Gate near Tiber.

16. La Porta Fabricia.

17. La Porta Pertusa.

18. La Porta Angelica.

19. The Castle Gate.

Rome is Peopl'd with about 300000 Christi∣ans, and about 8 or 10000 Jews, who are obli∣ged every Saturday to hear a Fryar Preach upon their Incredulity. The whole Circuit of Rome encloses seven Hills; but generally they never reckon above seven which are the biggest.

1. Monte Capitolino, where formerly stood the Temples of above Sixty Deities.

2. Monte Palatino, formerly the Mansion of the Ancient Kings, where still are to be seen a great number of Subterraneal Vaults, and the Garden Farnaise, one of the most Lovely Gar∣dens for Pleasure in Italy.

3. Monte Aventino, where now stands Santa Sabina.

4. Monte Celio, which extends from St. Grego∣ries to St. John de Laterano.

5. Monte Esquelino, so call'd from the Watch that stood there.

6. Monte Vioninale, so call'd from the Oziers with which it was formerly overgrown. And

7. Monte Quirinale, now Monte Cavallo, ever since the setting up in that place of the two Mar∣ble Bucephalus's which Tiridates King of Arme∣nia presented to Nero. The Popes also have built upon it a Magnificent Palace for their Summer Habitation.

They reck'n fourscore Parishes in Rome, and a∣bove Three hundred Churches: Of which the Seven principal, whither the People repair to obtain Indulgences, are St. Peter's in Vaticano, St. Paul's without the City, St. Maria Maggiore, St. Sebastians, St. John di Laterano, of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem, and St. Laurences. But in

extream hot Weather they go to Sancta Maria del Popola, instead of St. Sebastians.

There are two sorts of Government in Rome; that of the City, and that of the Church; and both the one and the other is in the hands of some Ecclesiastick upon whom the Pope confers it. The first has under him a Captain of a Hunderd Men, to be ready upon all occasions to execute the Orders of the Civil Government. This Cap∣tain is call'd Bargello, and his Soldiers Sbirri.

It may be said that there is no City in the World wherein the Civil Government is better settl'd then at Rome. All sorts of Provisions are rated in the Markets, in the Shops and in the Inns, where no body can sell any thing but ac∣cording to the Rate set. There are Bills set up in all Inns containing the Price of Bread, Wine and Meat, &c. and-for the Information of Stran∣gers, and to the end that the Inn-keepers may not deceive those who are ignorant of the Lan∣guage, or who cannot read, the Sbirri many times stop Strangers in the Streets, to know of 'em where they Lodge, and what they pay a Meal, to the end that they who offend against the Orders of the Civil Government may be soundly fin'd; and the better to take the Inn-keepers napping, many times the Sbirri go and Lodge in the Inns, in the Disguise of Forreign∣ers, especially where they have any suspicion.

As to the Ecclesiastical Government, it resides in the Person of the Pope, or the Cardinal Pa∣tron under the Character of his Vicar General. When there is any thing to be regulated, the Pope calls a Congregation, where not only the

Cardinals are present, but the Bishops and Do∣ctors; and if any Important Affairs of the Church are in Agitation, they are propos'd in a Consi∣story, which the Pope usually holds every 15 Days, where all the Cardinals that are in Rome must be present.

None but the Cardinals, whose Assembly is call'd the Sacred Colledge, have any Right in the Election of the New Pope. This Name of Cardinal was formerly given to all the Curates of Parishes in Rome. Nor was it till after the Fa∣mous Council held at Rome, in the Pontificare of Nicholas II. in 1053. that the Cardinals assum'd to themselves the only Right of choosing the So∣veraign Pontiff. Their number is fix'd to Se∣venty, viz. Fifty Priest Cardinals, Fourteen Deacon Cardinals, and Six Bishop Cardinals, which are the Bishops of Porto, Ostia, Sabina, Palestrina, Frescari, and Albano. For these Bi∣shopprick Suffragans to the Pope, as their Me∣tropolitain are always enjoy'd by a Cardinal.

At the Council of Lion held in 1243. Pope In∣nocent IV. gave the Red Cap to the Cardinals. Paul II. in 1464. allow'd 'em Red Habits; Gre∣gory XIV. gave a Red Bonnet to the Regular Car∣dinals, who before that time wore only a Hat, and Ʋrban VIII. allow'd 'em the Title of Eminency, till then addrest to by no other Title than that of Illustrissimo.

At the Time of the Promotion of Cardinals, the Pope being then in the Consistory, tells the Cardinals that are present, You have for your Bre∣thren, N. N. and then he causes the List of their Names and Qualities to be read. Which done

the Cardinal Patron sends for those who are at Rome, and carries 'em to the Pope to receive the Red Bonnet at his Hands I and in the next first Consistory, His Holiness gives 'em the Hat, and this Ceremony is call'd the Opening and Shuting the Mouths of the New Cardinals. As for those that are absent, the Pope dispatches away an Ex∣press to carry 'em the Bonnet; but they are ob∣lig'd to go to Rome, to receive the Hat from His Holinesses Hands. The Cardinals Habits, are a Cassock, a Rochet, a Mantelet, the Mozette, and the Papal Cope upon Solemn Days. The Colour of their Habit varies according to the Sea∣son, sometimes Light Crimson, sometimes Violet, sometimes Murrey, or a very dark Crimson, The Cardinals are in great Reputa∣tion at Rome, and have great Priviledges: Among which one of the most considerable is, that if a Cardinal chances to pass through any place where any Criminal is led to Punishment, the Cardinals presence gives a full Pardon for his Crime.

The place where the Cardinals meet in order to the Election of a new Pope when the See is vacant, is call'd the Conclave. This Conclave is not fix'd to any place, but is in the power of the Cardinals to make choice of any place which they shall deem convenient. However in regard the Vatican is the most commodious for many Reasons, this Assembly has been held there for a long time; so that the Deliberation of the Car∣dinals about the Choice of a place for the Con∣clave is no more then a bare Formality.

There are so many Cells as there are Cardi∣nals, erected in a spacious Apartment of the Palace; which Cells are made of Deal-Boards, every Cardinals Conclavist having his Partition also, who is a Person shut up with the Cardinal to wait upon him. When the Cells are ready, they are drawn by Lot, and every Cardinal fur∣nishes his own, and sets up his Arms over the Door. The Cells are finish'd in Nine Days, by which time the Pope's Funeral Obsequies being over, upon the Tenth, the Cardinals that are at Rome, enter the Conclave; and without staying for the Arriual of the Absent Cardinals, labour Morning and Evening in the Election of the Pope. When the absent Cardinals arrive at Rome, they spend some Days in Visits, and reposing them∣selves, and then they enter the Conclave also.

So soon as the Pope is Dead, the Publick is inform'd of it by the ringing of a Bell that hangs in the Capitol, and which is never towl'd upon any other occasion. At the same time Courriers are dispatch'd to all the Sovereign Princes of Europe that profess the Roman Catholick Religion, to inform 'em of the Pope's Death, The Car∣dinal Chamberlain removes to the Palace, and takes possession of the Fishermans Ring, which was the Deceased Pope's Signet, and breaks it to pieces, because all Dispatches of Bulls cease during the Vacancy of the See. Afterwards he gives out all necessary Orders for the Pope's Fu∣neral, whose Body is Embaulm'd and carry'd into a Chappel of St. Peter's Church, and expos'd upon a Bed of State, for the People to come and kiss his Feet through a Grate. The Funeral

Obsequies last Nine Days, and the Ceremony is perform'd by the Sacred Colledge. During the Vacancies of the Holy See, the Three Chiefs of the Orders of the Colledge, viz. the Dean of the Cardinal Bishops, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, have in their hands the whole Government of the City and Ecclesiastical State, and before they shut them∣selves up in the Conclave, they issue forth all necessary Orders for the Publick Security as well in Rome as in all the Cities of the State.

I shall not enter into a particular description of the manner of Electing Popes since Linus's time, who was the first that succeeded St. Peter till this present time, as well for that it would carry me too far, as for that the Ecclesiastical History has amply satisfy'd that piece of Curiosity. 'Tis ob∣servable in that History, that the People and the Clergy joyntly, and sometimes the Clergy alone proceeded to this Election; that at other times the Princes and Emperors have assum'd to them∣selves the power of appointing whom they plea∣sed to be Popes, and reserv'd the Confirmation also to themselves: That Lewis the Debonaire, and his Successors Lotharre I. and Lewis II. restor'd the Liberty of Election to the Church in the Ninth Age: That it was again taken from her in the Reign of Otho I. and not restor'd to her again till in the Twelfth Age. But now briefly to the manner of Election in use at this day.

The Cardinals that compose the Conclave re∣pair Morning and Evening to the Chappel, to make the Scrutiny; to which purpose they car∣ry every one of 'em a little Ticket, wherein is

written the Name of the Cardinal for whom they give their Suffrage for the Pontificate: This Billet also contains the Name of the Cardi∣nal Elector, which nevertheless is inclos'd in a Cover and seal'd up, and instead of a Super∣scription such a Motto or short saying as the Per∣son thinks of; as for example, God is my Help.—The Holy Ghost be my Guide. Every Car∣dinal throws his Billet into a Chalice that stands upon the Altar of the Chappel of the Conclave; and after all the Tickets are in, two Cardinals are appointed to open the first Fould of the Ticket, and read aloud the Persons Nam'd to the Pontifi∣cate which are writ down in a Register, yet not breaking open the Seal that encloses the Name of him that gives his Suffrage, unless it be found that two Thirds of the Suffrages are for one and the same Person, which is the number requisite to render the Election Authentick; but then the Seals are broke open, and the New Pope has the satisfaction to know who were the Persons that contributed to his Election. This Scrutiny also continues till two Thirds of the Voices meet; and after reading of the Scrutiny, if the two Thirds of the Suffrages do not agree upon the same Person, then they have recourse to that which they call Anough; that is to say, that eve∣ry one is at Liberty to give his Voice for him who had the most by the Scrutiny, with this Re∣servation, that the Person is not permitted to give his Voice, by the Anough, for him to whom they had given it by the Scrutiny. But if at length, neither the Scrutiny, nor the Anough de∣termine the Election, all the Tickets are burnt, to

the end the Names of the Electors may be kept secret. Sometimes the Election is carry'd by way of Inspiration, as they call it, which is as it were an open Declaration, several Cardinals cry∣ing out at the same time, such a one Pope. But this is never us'd, but when They who make that Exclamation are assur'd that they shall be upheld by the Suffrages of two Thirds of the Assembly.

When any one of the Cardinals is Elected. Pope, the Masters of the Ceremonies repairs to his Cell, to carry him the Tidings of his Exalta∣tation; after which he is conducted to the Chap∣pel, and Rob'd with the Pontifical Habit: Which done he receives the Adoration of the Cardinals; that is to say, the Respects which they are accu∣stom'd to pay the Sovereign Pontiff. That done, they seat him in the Pontifical Chair, and set him upon the Altar of the Apostles in St. Peter's Church▪ where the Cardinals perform the Cere∣mony of Adoration a second time. From thence his Holiness is reconducted to his Apartment, and some Days after they proceed to the Cere∣mony of his Coronation, as of a Temporal Prince. And here are to be observ'd the two Qualificati∣ons of a Pope; the one is as he is the Soveraign Pontiff and Head of the Church; the other, as he is a Temporal Prince, and Sovereign of a considerable State.

The Ceremony of the Coronation is perform'd in St. Peter's Church, where there is a Throne erected, to which the new Pope ascends, and being seated▪ his Miter is taken off, and the Crown set upon his Head before all the People.

And then begins the Cavalcade from St. Peters to St. John di Laterano, at what time all the Car∣dinals, Princes, and Ambassadors accompany him on Horseback. Being arriv'd at St. John di Laterano, the Archbishop of that Church pre∣sents the Pope with two Keys, the one of Gold, the other of Silver; and after he has given the Canons leave to kiss his Feet, his Holiness is at∣tended back to his Palace with the same Cere∣mony.

In the Account which I am going to give of the Curiosities in Rome most worthy the observa∣tion of a Traveller, I shall endeavour to omit nothing considerable of what came to my know∣ledge, and begin with a Description of the Churches, which are the fairest and best adorn'd of any in the World.

The Church of St. Peter is deservedly lookt upon to be the most beautiful, the largest and the most Superb in Europe. It is built in the Form of a Cross, 840 Geometrical Paces in length, 725 in breadth, 300 high, and 1465 in Circuit. The Roof of it is guilt, and it is co∣ver'd with Lead and Copper guilt. The whole Structure is lin'd with Marble within and with∣out side; and it is pav'd with square panes of Marble: Above one hundred Pillars support the Roof. of which the ancient Emperors despoyl'd Asia: Among the rest there are Twelve that Vespatian brought away from the Temple of So∣lomon. I say nothing of the Riches that glister in all the Chappels of the Church, nor of the in∣finite number of Relicks which are there pre∣serv'd. Those for which the People have the

greatest Veneration are the Vail of St. Veronica, with the Picture of our Saviour's Face; the Lance that was run into his Body; St. Peter's Wooden Pulpit, with the Bodies of several Saints. The Portico of this Church is 289 Foot long, 40 broad, and 133 in height; and it has five Doors that answer to the five Doors of the Church; of which one is call'd the Holy Door, as being never open'd but in time of Jubilee.

Over the Domo of the Church stands a Cu∣pola, or Globe of Copper guilt, which below seems not to be a Foot in Diameter, neverthe∣less it will hold above Twenty Men. After you have ascended a great number of Steps, you come to a Ladder of Eighteen Rounds which joyns to the Foot that sustains the Globe, so that you must get up with great trouble by the help of a Rope that is fasten'd above, and hangs down by the side of the Ladder. This Globe is about a Fingers breadth in thickness, having no more than four small Clefts, two Inches broad, and six high to let in the Light, and two Iron Bars run a-cross it for People to sit upon. 'Tis observable that no Body is permitted to go into it in the heat of Summer, for fear of being stifl'd. 'Tis said that St. Peter's Church cost Forty Three Millions of Gold, and was the Work of Twenty three Popes.

The Church of St. John, di Laterano, is very considerable, as well for the Antiquity of it, as for that it is the Episcopal Church of Rome; and because there it is, that the Pope takes Possession of his Dignity. There it was also where the Emperors receiv'd a Crown of Gold: It is all

Pav'd with Marble, and supported with Four rows of Guilded Pillars. Before the Church stands an Obelisk, a Hundred and fifteen Foot high, erected by Sixtus V. This Church was built by Constantine the Great, after his Con∣version, in the year 318. and enrich'd with se∣veral Crowns of Massie Gold and Silver. The Kings of France have a Right to present Two Canons of this Church to his Holiness, in con∣sideration of the Great Benefits this Church has receiv'd from His Most Christian Majesty; and there is a Solemn Service said in it every year in Memory of Henry IV. of France.

There is to be seen enchac'd in the Great Al∣tar, another little Altar, upon which they say, that St. Peter and some of his Successors said Mass, before they could be admitted the Pub∣lick exercise of Divine Worship. However, it were, no body must say Mass upon this Altar but the Pope himself, or a Cardinal that repre∣sents his Person, and he must have an Aposto∣lick Brief for that too. A Chair of Porphyrie is also shown to Foreigners, wherein the Pope Seats himself at the Door of the Church, when he takes Possession of the Papacy. There are a World of Relicks in this Church, as the Ark of the Old Testament, Moses's Rod, the Heads of St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Zacharie, &c. too te∣dious to be here repeated.

Upon one side you ascend to St. John de La∣terano, by the Scala Santa, or Holy Ladder, which are Twelve Steps of White Marble, the same by which Christ ascended into Pilates Palace, and which Helena sent from Jerusalem to her Son

Constantine, then at Rome. People creep up these Stairs upon their Knees out of Devotion.

St. Anastasius's Church was formerly the Temple of Neptune.

The Church of St. Theodore was formerly the Temple of Romulus and Remus; and as it is said, 'tis built in the very same place where the Two Founders of Rome were Suckl'd by the Wolfe. The Hospital of Nostra Madonna of Consolation, was the Temple of Vesta, where the Vestal Vir∣gins kept the Sacred Fire.

St. Agnes's Church was formerly the Tem∣ple of Bacchus; That of St. Alexis upon Mount Aventine, was the Temple of Hercules. Upon St. Anthony of Padua's Day, the People bring all manner of Beasts to his Church in the Martian Valley, in hopes that Saint will preserve 'em from all Sickness, and from the devouring Jaws of the Wolfe. Sta. Barba's in the Quarter of Pigna, was the Temple of Venus. St. Bartholo∣mews in the Island, was the Temple of Jupiter and Escubapius. St. Blase's in the Field of Mars, was another Temple of Neptune. St. Cosmo and St. Damian was another Temple, formerly De∣dicated to Romulus and Remus. St. Laurences by Janicola was the Temple of Juno-Lucina. St. Lucius near the Palace, was the Temple of Apollo. St. Maries upon the Capitoline Hill was the Tem∣ple of Jupiter Feretrius. St. Nerea's was the Temple of Isis. Sta. Sabina up the Aventine Mount was the Temple of Diana.

St. Martin's Church in the Mount, is remarka∣ble for the Vault, which, as they say, was the Place wherein the Christian Religion was First

exercised, and where St. Sylvester held Two Councils, during the persecution of the Church. The Church of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem, which is one of the Seven Consecrated to the Cross, was built by Constantine, out of the ruins of the Temple of Venus and Jupiter; and because the Infidels had erected the Statue of Venus upon Mount Calvarie, and had given the Name of that Goddess to the Mount. Sta. Helena caus'd the Superficies of the Mountain to be par'd off, and sent the Earth to the Emperor Constantine her Son, who put it into the Chappel of that Church, where it is kept among the rest of the Reliques.

St. Pauls Church, a Mile without the City, was also founded by Constantine, in Honour of that Apostle, who lies there Enterr'd. It is 477 Foot Long, 258 Broad, and is supported by 100 Pillars of White Marble, in Four Rows. The Church of St. Maries de la Rotonda, formerly the Pantheon, is a considerable Structure, as well for that Agrippa, who was the Founder of it, set up the Statues of all the Ancient Deities therein, in that order of Dignity which the Heathens ascrib'd to 'em; as for that the Model of seve∣ral new Churches has been taken from the round Form of it. This same Structure is a Hundred and forty Foot high, and as many Broad, with∣out Pillars, having no other support then that of the Walls; which makes it lookt upon, as one of the boldest pieces of Architecture that is in Italy. There is no Light but what comes in at the Door, and at an Overture, about Eight Fa∣thom in circumference, it the top of the Church. This Building was formerly cover'd

with Plates of Silver, afterwards of Copper, and since that with Lead; but now Lastly, at this day with Large Stones.

There are a great many Hospitals in Rome, every Nation having one particularly belonging to it. But the Hospital of the Trinity, erected by Clement VIII. actually maintains Five thousand Persons; not to mention such as come by chance. In the Apostles Church, there is to be seen every year an Election of Twelve Gentlemen and one Prelate, for the distribution of Alms to such as are asham'd to make known their Necessities; and to the end they may be the more easily dis∣covered, there are several Boxes Lock'd up, and set up in Publick Places, having little Grates at the top, wherein they who are in want, may put in little Notes containing the Places of their Abode.

There are also Houses for young Girls of Ten or Twelve years of Age, when their Parents are not able to provide for 'em, for fear lest Po∣verty should tempt 'em to prostitute themselves. There is another House, over the Gate of which is to be read this Inscription, Per le Donne mal maritate. For the Women ill Married; Where they put such Women as are unfortunately Mar∣ried, or cannot agree with their Husbands: and where they stay till their differences are re∣concil'd, and that the one or the other testifies a desire to live peaceably together.

All sorts of lewd Strumpets that signifie a de∣sire to Repent and Reform their Lives, are ad∣mitted into St. Mary Magdalains in Corse, and are there maintain'd all the rest of their Lives: Nor

are they Lock'd up by force, as in the Spinning-House, in Amsterdam; but they must see no Men, unless it be their Confessor and their Physitian.

They who report that Brothel-houses are per∣mitted in Rome, say true; but not when they add that the Pope approves 'em, and receives a Tribute from 'em. For there is a great diffe∣rence between approving and conniving. Judaism is no more approved in Italy, then in England and Holland, thô the Jews are suffer'd in all these places, and have their Publick Synagogues. And the Popes are so far from laying any Tribute upon the infamous Traffick of the Daughters of Joy, that they have been the Founders of several Hospitals for the maintenance of young Girls, whose Fathers and Mothers are not able to keep 'em, lest Poverty should tempt them to Liberti∣nism: and they are maintain'd in those Hou∣ses, till they are of an Age to Marry, or enter into a Religious House; and they that are dis∣pos'd to Marry, have a reasonable Portion al∣low'd 'em, proportionable to the Match that offers it self, and every Annunciation Day, there is a considerable Sum of Money distributed in the Dominicans Church to 300 young Virgins that are in those Hospitals.

The Laws in respect of common Prostitutes are very rigorous: they are forbid to come into the Assemblies of Honest Women, or to frequent the places where they walk to take the Air: they must not go in a Coach in the Day time; nor stirr out of their Houses in the Night; nor may they converse together, to the end they may have no opportunity to encourage one another to de∣baucherie.

They are forbid upon pain of exempla∣ry Punishment, to admit any company into their Houses during Lent, nor during the Advent. They are bound to Register their Names in the Publick Registers, kept on purpose for the Cur∣tisans; who by that means are lookt upon as in∣famous for ever. They are not admitted to the Holy Communion, nor Buried in Holy Ground, but in the nasty places along by the Walls of the City. Lastly, they cannot make a Will, so that if they leave any Estate behind 'em, which is ve∣ry rarely, 'tis all confiscated for the Benefit of the Hospitals for young Virgins.

Those Places which they call Catacombs, are certain Subterraneal Walks, or Caverns. where the Primitive Christians performed the Exerci∣ses of their Religion, during the Persecutions of the Pagan Emperors, and where they privately also held some Councils. The Catacombs, most known in Rome, are those that open into the Churches St. Pancras, St. Sebastian, St. Agnes, and St. Laurence. They who have gone through 'em report, That they run almost quite under the City, even under the River Tiber. These Vaults are for the most part about Five Foot High, and Three in Breadth. By the sides of which lie the Bodies of several Saints and Mar∣tyrs, from whence the Pope causes the Holy Bodies to be taken up, and Presents 'em to Prin∣ces and Ambassadors, by such Names as his Ho∣liness thinks proper to give 'em. There are some Places in these Catacombs, where People are forc'd to crawl along upon their Bellies, for Twenty or Thirty Paces: and several Persons

that have gone thither to visit the Tombs of the Ancient Christians have laid their own Bones in the same place. For being engag'd too far with∣out good Guides, they have lost themselves; either their light failing 'em before they can find the way out again. or else being stifl'd with the smoak of the Torches.

The Palace of St. Peter's of the Vatican, where the Popes usually reside in Winter, is seated in the Burrough, the best fortify'd place in all the City. This Palace is of a very vast extent, in re∣gard it côntains above 5000 Rooms and Cham∣bers. It has three rows of Galleries adorn'd with Pictures, representing the Principal Histo∣ries of the Old and New Testament. In the Chambers also are an infinite Number of Marble and Alablaster Statues; more especially there is a Stone to be admir'd in the Imperial Chamber, upon which Nature has form'd the Image of Pius V. more exactly then any Pencil could have drawn it upon Cloth. This Palace so call'd from the Name of the Hill upon which it is seated, was begun in the Pontificate of Nicholas V. and finish'd under Leo V. but was embellish'd with Painting and Statues by Sixtus V. Clement VIII. Ʋrban VIII. and their Successors, who have made it a Palace fit for the Residence of the Severeign Pontiffs. In the midst of the Gallery that leads to Belvedere, stands the Vatican Library, which is lookt upon to be the fairest and the most fa∣mous for Number and Curiosity of Books in the World. There are an infinite Variety of Manu∣scripts in Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabick, &c. Writings upon Leaves of Wood, and Tablets of

Wax, of which they made use before the inven∣tion of Paper. There is a large Manuscript He∣brew Bible, and another Hebrew Bible written upon pieces of Parchment roll'd up, from whence the Latin word Volumen, with another Manu∣script written upon the Leaves of a Tree, as the Custome was in those days, whence the La∣tin word Folium for the Leaf of a Book. Lastly, There is a Greek Bible, which as they assure us, was one of the Seventy Copies of the Seventy Interpreters who Translated the Old Testament by the Command of Ptolomy Philadelphus, being shut up every one apart by themselves.

Before they leave the Vatican, Travellers go to see the Garden of Belvedere, so call'd be∣cause from that place you have a prospect over the whole City. 'Tis to be observ'd that what we call a Garden of Pleasure, in Italy they call a Vinyard. This Vinyard of Belvedcre is remarka∣ble for an infinite number of Marble. Brass, and Alablaster Statues; among which is the Statue of the River Tiber, resting upon a Wolf that gives suck to Romulus and Rhemus; and on the other side Nilus with Seventeen Children, every one about a fathom in height, denoting the Se∣venteen various measures to which the Waters of that River encrease. There is also to be seen a Cleopatra expiring after her being bitten by a Ser∣pent twisted about her Arm; a Venus Ericina co∣ming out of a Bath; the Statues of Bacchus, Mer∣cury, Apollo, and Laocoon and his Children folded about with two Surpents.

The Piazza of the Vatican, commonly call'd St. Peter's Piazza, is one of the fairest in Rome, adorn'd with a Fountain that spouts up the Wa∣ter, as big about as a Man's Middle, and as high as a Half-Pike; and an Obelisk, which is call'd the Needle by reason of the shape and height of it. This is a Stone that was brought from Egypt, by the Command of Caligula, at an incredible charge, and was set up in Nero's Circus; but Sixtus V. caus'd it to be remov'd into the Vatioan Piazza. It is 217 Foot high, comprehend∣ing the Basis about 12 Foot in circumference be∣low, and 8 at the top. It is supported by four Lions of Brass guilt, that stand upon a large Pe∣destal of Marble.

The Castle of St. Angelo is one of the best For∣tresses in Italy, and has been the Sanctuary of se∣veral Popes in the Troubles of Italy. Alexander VI. built a private Coridor, or Gallery, which leads from the Palace of St. Peter, to the Castle, to the end the Popes might retire in a Time of necessity without being seen. Prisoners of State are committed thither; and the Treasure of the Church, the Records and Rolls, the Triple Crown, with the five Millions which Sixtus V. laid up there, with a prohibition upon pain of Excommunication to all his Successors, forbiding 'em to touch it, but upon a most urgent necessity for the defence of the City, to which end that Sum was only design'd. As to the Name of the Castle, it was so call'd, as they say, from the Sta∣tue of an Angel that stands at the top of the Frontispiece with a Sword in his Hand, in me∣mory of St. Gregories Vision, in which an Angel

appear'd to him sheathing his Sword, to let him understand that the Wrath of God was appeasd toward the Romans, who had been very much afflicted with War, Pestilence and Famine.

Near the Castle is a Bridge over the Tiber, call'd St. Angelo's Bridge, built almost in the same place where formerly stood the Triumphal Bridge, by reason that all the Triumphs that were decreed in Rome, pass'd that way. But now we see no more remaining but only the sad Ru∣ines of that Pompous Vanity, it being the Will of God, that that piece of solemn Luxury should be quite extinct, by reason the Excess of those Triumphs was grown to that degree of Exorbi∣tancy, that had the use of 'em continu'd, Men would have been made use of instead of Beasts to draw the Victors Chariot. Camillus's was drawn by four White Horses; Pompey's by four Elephants; Mark-Antony's by four Lyons; and Nero's by four Hermophradites; Aurelian's by six Harts, and Firmius's by six Ostriches.

The Capitol is one of the most ancient Build∣ings in Rome, so call'd from the Head of a Man that was found when the Foundations of it were laid by the Orders of Tarquin the Proud. The Structure was finish'd and cover'd with Brass guilt in the Consulship of Pulvillus. Catulus con∣secrated it to Jupiter Capitolinus; and it was a∣dorn'd with a great number of Statues of Massie Gold and Silver, which represented the Ancient Roman Magistrates and Consuls, and it had 3000 Brass Tables when one part of it was consum'd by Fire. Nor was that the only Fire which de∣fac'd this Building, for it was again burnt down

in Sylla's time: A third time in the Reign of Do∣mitian; and a fourth under Commodus. So that it wants that Wealth and Magnificence which for∣merly render'd it so famous. An Ascent of 128 Steps led up to it, and there are still remarkable in it for curious pieces of Workmanship two Sta∣tues of Constantine upon two Horses of Marble, and in the Grand piazza stands a Brass Statue of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus on Horse-back. The Palace of the Conservators, which is also a part of the Capitol, is adorn'd with an infinite number very curious Statues.

Upon the Quirinal Hill are to be seen the Ruines of Constantine's Bathing Places. These sorts of Buildings were very large and sumptu∣ous in every respect; and there are also to be seen at Rome some Ruines of the Emperors Alex∣ander, Severus, Nero, Titus, Trajan, Philippus, and Caracalla's Baths.

They that are very curious are easily led to see upon the Palatin Hill, the Lake or Gulf of Cur∣tius, a kind of an Abyss whence formerly issued forth a Stench that caus'd the Pestilence in Rome, upon which the Oracle being consulted, return'd for Answer, that the Contagion should not cease, till they had thrown into the Gulph whatever Rome had of most precious. Presently the Roman Ladies threw in all their Jewels; but that not a∣vailing Curtius, a Roman Knight, imagining there was nothing more pretious than a Brave and a Valiant Man, and willing to signalize his Pre∣sumption and his Zeal for his Country, threw himself headlong Horse and Man into the Abyss, and then the Plague ceas'd.

In that Quarter which is call'd the Field of Mars, stands Antoninus's Pillar, upon which are represented in half Relief the Glorious Actions of that Emperor against the Armenians, the Par∣thians, the Germans, &c. Two hunder'd and se∣ven Marble Steps lead up to the top of it, the Light coming in at six little Windows. It con∣sists of no more then Eight and twenty Marble Stones, which being joyn'd together, make a Hundred seventy five Foot in heighth. Of late they have plac'd upon the top of it a Statue of St. Paul of guilt Brass.

Trajan's Column in the Piazza of the same Name consists of no more then four Stones that rise to 140 Foot in heighth; to the top of which there is an Ascent of 185 Steps, enlighten'd by 44 Windows. Formerly they had set upon the top of this Column an Urn with Trajan's Ashes in it; but that is since taken down, and the Statue of St. Peter in Brass erected in the room of it.

Nor must I bury in silence the Statues of Pas∣quin and Manforio; for they that talk so often of others, must not be themselves forgotten. It is call'd the Statue of Pasquin, because that all the Satyrs which are made in Rome, call'd Pasquina∣des are always fix'd upon it. Some say this Sta∣tue was erected in Honour of one of Alexander's Soldiers who had done him many signal Services. Others reject this Opinion, and tell us that the Word Pasquin is deriv'd from a Taylor who made Cloaths for Persons of Quality in Rome; and in regard he was a very great Droll, he observ'd their blind sides, to make Lampoons upon 'em

in his Shop, which always gain'd him good Com∣pany. They add that sometime after his De∣cease the Paviers digging before his Door found a Statue, to which they presently gave the Name of Pasquin, and set it up in the next Quarter to his House. However it were, it was propos'd to one of the Popes, that it might be thrown in∣to Tiber, to take away all Opportunities of Li∣belling and Lampoons that were fix'd upon it. But the Holy Father made answer that he was afraid it would turn to a Frog that would be croaking Day and Night: intimating thereby, that instead of stopping the Course of Satyrs, the Lampooners would fix 'em upon all the Statues in the City.

Not far from the Capitol stands another Sta∣tue call'd Manforio, where generally are hung up the Answers made to the Lampoons which are fix'd upon Pasquin. Some say this Statue was erected in honour or Jupiter Panarius; o∣thers that it is a Statue of the Rhine. because that formerly the Emperot Domitian's Brazen Horse set his Foot upon the Head of it.

There is no City in the World wherein there are more Magnificent Palaces. The Learned Mr. Spon, in his Travels into the East has given us a Catalogue of 'em, which has sav'd me the trouble. I shall only say, that the Palace of the Farnezi is one of the most sumptuous. It has four Fronts with a large Gate belonging to eve∣ry one that leads into the Court, and is surroun∣ded with Pillars forming Portico's that support an open Gallery that leads to every Apartment, In this Court stand two Statues of Hercules lean∣ing

upon his Club; one of which was found in Caracalla's Baths; the other is an Imitation of That. In the Palace Hall stands the Statue of Alexander Farneze, Duke of Parma, who tram∣ples under foot two Statues representing Heresie and Rebellion, while Fame sets a Crown upon his Head. This Piece is so much the more e∣steem'd, because all the four Peices are all of one single Stone of White Marble. There are an infinite number of other Lovely Statues and Pictures in the Apartments belonging to this Pa∣lace: More particularly there is to be seen a Marble Statue in a small Back-Court, represen∣ting the Figure of a Bull, all of one Stone, ha∣ving one of the Horns ty'd with a Woman's Hair, while two Men endeavour to throw 'em into the Sea. 'Tis the History of Amphion and Zethes, who in revenge of the injury done their Mother, whom Lycus King of Thebes had repu∣diated, upon the Importunity of Dirce, ty'd Dirce to the Horns of a Bull, and cast 'em both Head∣long into the Sea.

One of the Curiosities of Rome, which Stran∣gers always visit, is to be found in Prince Ludo∣visio's Palace; that is to say, the Body of a Man petrefy'd and laid in a Velvet Box, with one Leg broken, to convince the Incredulity of the Curious, who will not believe that the Ske∣leton was cover'd with Stone, because they say it was a Garment made on purpose. This justi∣fies what Ortelius affirms, That upon certain Mountains of Tartary, there are to be found Men, Camels, Sheep, &e. chang'd into Stones for above Three Hundred Years past: And▪

Aristotle reports that there is a Cave near Berga∣mo, where are to be seen the Petrify'd Bodys of several Men.

When I enumerated the Churches of Rome, I forgot to tell ye, that in the Church call'd La Bocca di Verita, there is a piece of Marble re∣presenting a Head with the Mouth open; And the Good Women do say, that if a Woman Un∣faithful to her Husband's Bed, lays her Hand upon it, the Mouth will shut. The Roman Wo∣men who have Jealous and Credulous Hus∣bands, frequently justifie their Chastity by this means, wherein they run far less hazard then they who formerly were constrain'd to walk bare-foot over red hot Coals, and Plough∣shares.

This is what I purpos'd to say of the Famous City of Rome, wherein though I have omitted many things, yet there is sufficient to give an Advantageous Idea of it to those who have never seen it; and to breed in others a desire of see∣ing it.