Voyages and travels over all Europe Containing all that is most curious in that part of the world. In eight tomes. Done out of French.

HISTORICAL TRAVELS OVER EUROPE. (Book 3)

ITALY. (Book 3)

CHAP. I. Of Italy in General.

ALthô above fourscore Authors have wrote the Description of Italy, never∣theless it is not known from whence it derives its Name. Some deduce it from Oxen or Bulls, which in the ancient obso∣lete Greek were called Itali; and for the feed∣ing of which, Italy was then in high repute Others will have it so called from one Italus, one of the first Kings of the Country. It formerly bore the Names of Saturnia, Ausonia, Oenopia, and Hesperia, which it receiv'd from several Prin∣ces

and renowned Captains that regin'd therein at several times.

This part of Europe is seated in the middle of the Temperate Zone, between the 28th Degree and a half and the 42d and a half of Longitude, and between the 37th Degree and a half and 48th and a half of Latitude.

It is bounded to the North by a ridge of Mountains called the Alpes, which separate it from Germany and Switzerland; to the West, by the Alpes also and the River Var, which divides it from France and Savoy; to the East, by the Mediterranean Sea, otherwise call'd the Adriatic Sea, or the Golph of Venice; and to the South, by the Tyrrhene or Tuscan Sea. Where it is long∣est, to take it from the Frontiers of Savoy, to the farthest extremity of the Kingdom of Naples, it extends it self about 280 French Leagues, or 450 Italian Miles. But the breadth of it is not all alike, sometimes 30, in other places 40, 60, 80, and 100 French Leagues, resembling a Boot, that seems to kick at Sicily, to force it into Africa.

Most Geographers divide Italy into four parts; the first comprehends the ancient Lombardy, wherein are contain'd, the States or Dominions of the Dukes of Savoy, Mantua, Parma, Modena, Milanois, the Republic of Venice, Genoa, and some other Petty Principalities. The second includes the Ecclesiastical State, and Tuscany. The third, the Kingdom of Naples. And the fourth, the Islands of Sardigna, Sicily, Corsica, &c.

The Air is very wholsome and very temperate over all Italy, except in the Ecclesiastical State, where certain malignant Fevers are very rife, and

were much more frequent before the use of Ice in Summer to cool their Drink.

Italy produces in great plenty whatever is ne∣cessary for the support of Human Life; as Corn, Oyl, Oranges, Citrons, Pomegranates, with all sorts of Fruits and Flowers. There is to be found both Sugar and Cotton in the Kingdom of Naples; besides great store of Silkworms, very good Horses and Bufalo's. The Mountains af∣ford Mines of Sulphur, and several Quarries of Alablaster, and all sorts of Marble.

The principal Rivers that water it, are the Po, the Adige, Adda, Arno, and Tiber, which contri∣bute not a little to the Fertility of it, from whence it is call'd, The Garden of Europe. The highest Mountains are the Alpes, the Apennine, which runs quite through the whole length of Italy, Mount Masso, Mount Barboro, Vesuvius, and Mount Gibello.

'Tis said, the Italians are very wicked, or very honest and virtuous. The People are generally polite, obliging, quick of apprehension, ingenious, crafty, eloquent, politic, and want not worth, when they have once rid themselves of a certain Reservedness, which frequently begets 'em the Epithete of Knaves. These good Qualities are accompanied with some bad ones, to which they are a little too much enclined: For they are jealous, quick of their promises, slow to perform; but above all, revengeful; insomuch that many times Revenge descends from Family to Family.

The Italian Language is a kind of adulterated Latin, which the Goths, Huns, Vandals, Lombards, and other People inhabiting Italy, have much cor∣rupted:

Nor do they speak it equally polite in all parts of the Kingdom. It is more refined in Tuscany then any where else: but the Tuscans do not pronounce it so well as the Romans; which is the reason of the Italian Proverb, Lingua Tuscana in Bucca Romana. And it is observed, that the Italians speak in the throat, the Venetians in the roof of the mouth, the Neapolitans between the teeth, and the Genoeses between the Lips.

The Roman Apostolic Religion, is the only Re∣ligion allowed over all the States of Italy, where∣in, for the preservation of it, there are several Tribunals of the Inquisition erected; not but that there are great numbers of Lutherans and Calve∣nists settl'd upon the Sea-Coasts, drawn thither by the conveniency of Trade: And thô the Ma∣gistrates know that they are departed from the Church, yet 'tis their interest to take no cogni∣zance of it. The Jews enjoy much more free∣dom, and have their Synagogues even in Rome it self, upon the Payment of an Annual Tribute. There are also Greeks and Armenians in some Ci∣ties, who perform their Church Worship accor∣ding to the customs of their Country.

History informs us, that after the Foundation of Rome, Italy was govern'd by Kings for the space of 245 Years, and that Tarquin the Proud was the last of her Kings. That afterwards the Romans erected themselves into a Commonwealth, which, under the conduct of Consuls and Sena∣rors, acquir'd Immortal Honour, as well for their Policy, as for an infinite number of Victories which they obtain'd over their Enemies. That Commonwealth lasted till the 706th Year of

Rome, at what time Julius Caesar was proclaim'd Emperor, and extended the Roman Empire in all the three parts of the World which were then known; for America was not discover'd in those days. After this Empire had mounted to the highest period of its Grandeur, it declin'd in such a manner, that it has left us a memorable Example of the instability and fleeting condition of all Earthly Grandeur. This formidable Empire be∣ing fallen to decay, was dismember'd in the Reign of Honorius, who dy'd in the year of Christ 423, and 4176th after the Foundation of Rome.

Italy after this fell under the Dominion of the Emperors of Constantinople, who sent thither their Viceroys or Governors under the Title of Ex∣archs, who kept their Court at Ravenna. But that Government, which began in the year of Christ 568, lasted not above 184 years, at what time those Emperors were expell'd by the Kings of Lombardy. Afterwards, the Emperors of the West conquer'd Italy; and the Kingdom of Lom∣bardy was quite extinguish'd in 774, by Charle∣main, who made great Presents to the Holy See: that Monarch, and the Kings of France, his Suc∣cessors, being the only Princes who rais'd the Temporal Power of the Pope to that degree wherein we now behold it.

This part of Europe is at this day divided a∣mong several Potentates. That is to say, the Pope in the Ecclesiastical State: The King of Spain, who is of the House of Austria, of the Branch of Burgundy, possesses the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily, the State of Milan, and the Island of Sardigna. These two Potentates are

the most considerable in Italy; the next to them are,

• The Republic of Venice.
• The Republic of Genoa.
• The Republic of Luca.
• The Grand Duke of Tuscany of the House of Medici.
• The Duke of Savoy of the House of Saxony.
• The Duke of Mantua of the House of Gonzaga.
• The Duke of Parma of the House of Farneze.
• The Duke of Modena of the House of d'Este.

There are many other Sovereign Princes who have power of Life and Death over their Sub∣jects, with absolute authority to make War and Peace, and to coyn Money; but by reason of the small Extent of their Territories, are call'd the Petty Princes of Italy. Such are,

• The Republic of St. Marin.
• The Bishop of Trent.
• The Duke of Guastalla.
• The Duke of Sabionetta.
• The Count of Novelare.
• The Prince of Bozzolo.
• The Duke of Mirandola.
• The Prince of Monaco.
• The Prince of Massera.
• The Prince of Piombino.
• The Duke of Bracciano: And several others.

All the States of these Princes hold of the Church, or of the Emperor of Germany. Only the Territories of the Pope and the Republic of Venice are independent. 'Tis to be observ'd, that the States that hold of the Church, devolve to it again, if the Proprietors happen to die without

Issue Male; the Daughters not being admitted to succeed their Fathers.

There are reckon'd to be in Italy 68 Principa∣lities; 95 Dukedoms; an infinite number of Archbishoprics and Bishoprics, and great store of Universities; of which the most famous are those of Padua, Venice, Turin, Pavia, Siena, Pisa, Bologna, Rome, Ferrara, Fermo, Macerata, Salerno, Naples.

The Principal Cities of Italy, are Rome, which is the Metropolis of the whole Country, term'd the Holy; next to that, Naples the Noble, Flo∣rence the Fair, Genoa the Proud, Milan the Great, Ravenna the Ancient, Venice the Rich, Padua the Learned, and Bologna the Fat.

It remains that I should speak of some Cu∣stoms that are general in Italy. In regard the Coasts of Italy upon the Mediterranean Sea are much infested by the Pyrates of Barbary, who often Land there, and carry away the Inhabi∣tants in the Country with the best of their Goods, there are little Forts built all along the Coasts, about a mile distance one from another; more especially upon the Riviera di Genoa, and upon the Coasts of Naples and Sicily, where six men keep Garrison with two Pieces of Cannon to pre∣vent Descents. These Guards every night kindle one or two Fires upon the neighbouring Moun∣tains. When there is but one, it is call'd a Fire of Assurance, as being a sign that no Turkish Bri∣gantine has appear'd all that day. But if they kindle two some Paces off one from another, 'tis to give notice to the Inhabitants to stand upon their Guards, and that they have seen some Pi∣rates

sounding where to get ashore. Those Fires they call Fires of Mistrust.

The Italians never tell the Clock as other Peo∣ple of Europe do. They begin to tell One at the close of the Day; so that the Hours of Noon and Midnight alter higher or lower ac∣cording to the Seasons. For Example, the 12th of August which we reckon to be Noon in France, the Italians count it 17 a clock, and 24 when the Sun disappears. They keep a man at their principal Clocks, who, when the Clock has strook, with a Hammer strikes as many times upon the same Bell as the Clock strook; that if any one were mistaken in telling the first time, he may not fail to tell right the second.

'Tis also a usual thing to be robb'd upon the High way, more especially near any Garrison Towns; but most of all in the Territories of the King of Spain. Nor is there any trusting to the Guards which are granted to those that desire 'em, because those Guards many times share the Booty with the Thieves, who for the most part disguise themselves in the Habit of Pilgrims or Hermits.

Neither Wives nor Maids stir out of Doors unless it be to Church, or at least very seldom; and when they do, they are attended by some Spy which their jealous Parents or Husbands send along with 'em to watch 'em. That Sex never appears either in Shops or Markets; for the Men drive all the Trade. Marriages are usually celebrated by Proxies; and many times the Man and the Woman never see one another till they come before the Priest to be married.

When Mass is said in Italy, only the Men rise up at the Gospel.

I could relate many more things of Italy in General; but I reserve 'em for the several Chap∣ters of each particular State, to which they more properly belong.

CHAP. II. Of the States of the Duke of Savoy.

THE Dukes of Savoy descend from the House of Saxony, one of the most ancient and most illustrious Families of Germany. 'Tis above a thousand years since that they have been in So∣vereign Possession of Piemont and Savoy, and no less then five Emperors and four Kings have de∣scended from it. The Duke of Savoy bears a Crown fasten'd over his Arms, ever since Char∣lote de Lusignan Queen of Jerusalem, Cyprus and Armenia, being driven out of her Kingdom by her Bastard Brother, and flying for Refuge to Rome under the Pontificate of Sixtus IV. where she died in 1489, bequeath'd all her Pretensions to Cyprus, in the presence of the Pope and seve∣ral Cardinals, to Charles Duke of Savoy her Ne∣phew. Nevertheless, he is not address'd to by the Title of Majesty, but only of His Royal High∣ness, and Perpetual Vicar of the Holy Empire in Italy.

The Duke of Savoy, upon a stress of necessity, may be able to bring into the Field about 30000 Foot, and 5000 Horse. His fixed Revenue in

time of Peace amounts to Six millions fourscore and eighteen thousand Livres of Piemont. But that Livre not being worth above five French Sols, that Sum amounts to no more then to Four millions five hundred forty three thousand six hundred Livres of our money.

Althô the Duke of Savoy coins Pistols, Duca∣toons, Pieces of Six Sols, and other small Money, however the Pieces of France and Spain go cur∣rant in his Country. The French Crowns go there for-seventy two Sols, and the other Pieces proportionably. But nothing is so much talk'd if in Piemont as Florins; which is a chimerical sort of money like our Livres of France, the Florin not being worth above twelve Sols, and the Ducatoon goes in Piemont for 84 Sols.

As for the manners of the Savoyards and Pie∣montois, the Nobility are endow'd with all the Qualities requir'd in Persons of their Rank. The People are laborious, and naturally very affable, good Husbands, sober, and fit to undergo any sort of Hardship; but they have no great inclination to War.

The Dukes of Savoy have always appear'd ve∣ry zealous for the Catholic Religion, which has often induc'd 'em to make use of their Power to constrain their Subjects in the Vallies of Vaudois to return to the Bosom of the Church, from whence they departed in the last Age. The Duke now reigning is the only person that brought his design to pass, by forcing the most obstinate in their Religion to leave their Habi∣tations, and to retire into Switzerland and Ger∣many. But two years after, in 1689. he recall'd

'em to serve in his War against France, and per∣mits 'em the free Exercise of their Religion.

The Government of Savoy is purely Monar∣chical; and the Salic Law takes place there as well as in France, for the Daughters never inhe∣rit the Sovereignty. For want of Male Issue, the Succession appertains to the next of kin to the Duke, of the Masculine Line.

Savoy was erected into a Dukedom by the Em∣peror Sigismund, in favour of Amadeus, the 8th Count of Savoy. Thô the Country be altogether Mountainous, yet it abounds in very fertile Val∣leys. The principal Cities in it are Chamberi, Nice. and Villa Franca, which are now reduc'd under the Dominion of France, together with all the rest of the Province, which is bounded to the North by the River Rhine and the Lake of Geneva; to the East, by Switzerland and Piemont; to the South, by the Dauphinate; and to the West, by the Rhine, which separates it from La Bress and Burgundy.

Piemont is another Province of the States of Savoy, so called from the situation of it at the foot of the Alpes. The eldest Sons of the Princes of Piemont bear the Title of Dukes of Piemont. This Province is much more fertile then Savoy; being bounded to the East by Milanois and Mont∣ferrat; to the South, by the Republic of Genoa, and the County of Nice; by Savoy and the Dau∣phinate to the West; and Le Velais to the North.

Turin is not only the Capital City of Piemont, but of all the Duke's Territories, where he also keops his Court. It is seated in a fertile Plain, between the Rivers Po, and Doire. It is secur'd

by a Citadel with five good Bastions, furnish'd with all things necessary for the defence of it. Nevertheless the French took it, with an Army far inferior to that of the Spaniards who defen∣ded it. During the Siege, the Spaniards threw in Powder, Letters, &c. by the assistance of a Mortar, invented by a Fleming, which for that reason was call'd, The Courier Cannon.

The City of Turin is adorn'd with an Arch∣bishopric and a University, wherein all Sciences are profess'd, and it boasts it self to be the first City of Italy where Printing was made use of. The chiefest Curiosity in Turin most worthy the Observation of a Traveller is the Citadel, where∣in there is a Well to be admir'd for the largeness of it, and the conveniency of watering a great number of Horses without any trouble; for they ascend one way, and descend another.

The Ducal Palace is magnificent for the Fur∣niture of it, as well for the Winter as for the Sum∣mer. Among the Rarities which are shewn to Strangers, there is a Chariot of Massie Gold, having six Horses of the same Metal spang'd to it, and enchas'd all over with precious Stones. There is also a little Castle of Gold, with Artil∣lery and Fortifications of the same Metal. There is besides an Engin, that carries her Royal High∣ness from her Chamber to her Baths, with a sin∣gle Pulley, by the favour of a Counterpoise, and that with all the safety and ease imaginable.

The Cathedral Church of Turin is very state∣ly; wherein is kept the sacred Sudary, in which the Face and part of the Body of our Saviour are imprinted. They assure ye, that is the same

wherein the Saviour of the World was shrouded before he was laid in the Sepulchre of Arima∣thea, and that it was brought into Savoy by the Daughter of John King of Cyprus and Jerusalem, who marry'd Lewis of Savoy. But that which raises a greater Contest is this, that they shew ye such another Sudary at Besanton, the Capital of Franche Conte.

They whose Curiosity leads 'em to see the Tomb of Clement Marot, the famous Poet and Valet de Chambre to Francis the First, will find it at Turin. For that having been banish'd for his irregular Life from the Court of France, he went to Geneva, from whence he was also expell'd for his loose Living, and retiring to Turin, died in 1544, in the 60th year of his Age. Althô he understood neither Hebrew, Greek, nor Latin, nevertheless he Translated one part of David's Psalms into French Verse, which are sung by the Protestants at this day, both in Holland, Germany, and Switzerland. And notwithstanding that the more Learned among them agree, that he ob∣serv'd little exactness, and that there are many Versions much better, both for the Sense and the Poetry, yet Marot's are still preferr'd before all others, perhaps because he was censur'd by the Sorbon in the Reign of Francis the First. Marot was born at Cahors in Querci, and after his death the following EPITAPH was made upon him:

Querci, the Court, Piemont and all the Earth, Bred, Fed, Enterr'd me, knew my Worth. Querci my Love, the Court had all my Time, Piemont my Bones, and all the Earth my Rhime.

The Duke has also several Houses of Pleasure in the parts adjoyning to Turin, of which the chiefest are Parc, Valentin, and Mille fleurs; but they have all suffer'd very much through the Violences of the War, as well as the rest of Pie∣mont.

Suza is one of the principal Cities of Piemont, by the Romans call'd Segusium, which was one of Pompey's Colonies, who was the first that open'd the passage of Mount Genevre. It has undergone however several Calamities upon several occasi∣ons. History informs us that Constantine the Great caus'd it to be plunder'd and then burnt. In a second Conflagration which it suffer'd through the provok'd fury of the Emperor Frederick Bar∣barossa, all the Records and Rolls of the House of Savoy were consum'd. This City is conside∣rable for the situation of it, in regard it shuts up one of the principal Inlets of France into Italy However the French have forc'd it several times; more especially at the beginning of this Age, though the Duke of Savoy had rais'd a dozen Barricado's in the Defiles, which defended one another; and in our time the King's Armies clear'd their way through it, and are still in pos∣session of it. There are still to be seen at Suza very fair Remains of a Triumphal Arch, which some say was erected by the Goths, others by

the Romans; though others are of Opinion that they are the Ruines of the Trophies rear'd by the Emperor Augustus 740 years after the build∣ing of Rome, and 14 before the Birth of our Sa∣viour.

Nice is the Capital City of a County of the same name, which was formerly included within Provence, and which Amadeus the Seventh usurp'd from Joan Countess of Provence, at the same time that she was busi'd in pacifying the Troubles of Naples. To palliate which Usurpation, the Dukes of Savoy alledge, that Ioland, the Mother and Nurse of Lewis the Third, Count of Pro∣vence, and King of Naples, surrendred that County to Amadeus of Savoy in 1419, in compensation for the Sum of 160000 Livres, which he pretended to be due to him from his Pupil. But besides that that Sum was never due, nor a sufficient Equi∣valent giv'n for that County, Ioland had no power to grant away the Territories of her Son, thô the Duke's Pretensions had been just. However it were, both the City and the County are now in the hands of the French; Catinat making him∣self Master of the Cities of Nice and Villa Fran∣ca at the beginning of the year 1691.

The City of Nice was founded by the Inhabi∣tants of Marseilles, who made it one of their Colonies: And it was enlarg'd out of the Ruins of Cemella, the Bishopric of which place was translated to Nice, It is a Town of great Trade, wherein are still to be seen some Re∣mainders of an Amphitheatre erected in Honour of the Romans, and some Footsteps of a Temple of Pluto, and another dedicated to Juno. The

Citadel is built upon a steep Rock, and is look'd upon as one of the strongest Forts in Europe. The Turks besieg'd it in the year 1543, but were forc'd to leave it. The Cathedral Church is dedicated to St. Repareus.

The Cities of Chamberi, Montmelian, and Villa Franca, together with the Cities of Casal and Pignerol, are already described in the Sixth Chapter of the First Volume of these Voyages.

CHAP. III. The State of Milan.

MIlanois is a Province of Italy with the Title of a Dukedom, seated in the most beautiful Country of all Lombardy. The Soyl is so fertile in Corn, Wine, and all manner of Fruits, that it bears twice a year. The High∣ways are all drawn in a Line, with a Canal of Running Water on each side, which, besides the Ornament of it, serves for the Transportation of Goods and Merchandize from the adjoyning Countries. The Goodness and Fertility of the Country procur'd it formerly the Envy of ma∣ny, and made it the Seat of cruel Wars. The Revenues of it in time of Peace may amount to Two Millions and Four hundred thousand Crowns; which Sum is advanc'd a third part in time of War. This State is so numerously Peopl'd, that in case of necessity it is able to bring above 50000 men into the Field. Never∣theless, the King of Spain is so ill serv'd, that the

Officers only make the benefit of the Revenue, and his Catholick Majesty is constrain'd to send considerable Sums for the payment of 20000 Men which he maintains in the Country.

Besides the Spanish Money, and the Genoese Coyn that goes currant in Milanois, the Mint sends forth also Philipins, Ducatoons, Creusons, Par∣bayolles, and Sesins. A Philipin contains the value of 6 Livres 6 Sols of the Country; the Duca∣toon, 7 Livres; the Creuson, 5 Livres 10 Sols; the Parbayolle, 2 Sols and a half, or 5 Sesins, which is a small Copper Coyn, two of which make a Sol. The Milanois Livre is worth about 10 Sols of France.

Milan, an Archiepiscopal City, is the Metropolis of the Duchy, built by the Gauls when they set∣tl'd in Italy about the year 170, after the buil∣ding of Rome. The Romans expell'd 'em thence 462 years after. This Country was often ex∣pos'd to the Incursions of the Barbarians, the Goths, and Huns; and after that, was subdu'd by the Lombards, who possess'd it till the Reign of Charlemain, who made it a part of the Em∣pire. By degrees this City became so powerful, that she commanded all her Neighbours; and her Pride swell'd to that height, that she several times rebell'd against her Sovereigns. The Em∣peror Frederic the First was constrain'd to make use of Force to reduce her to Obedience, which he brought to pass in 1160; and soon after the Empress his Wife going to Milan, the People rose, out the throats of the Imperial Garrison, and sei∣zing upon the Empress, set her upon an Ass with her face toward the Tail, which they gave her

in her hand in stead of a Bridle, and so led her through the whole City. The Emperor justly incens'd at such a piece of Insolence, besieg'd the City, and forc'd it to surrender at Discretion the 3d of March, 1162. Which done, he levell'd it with the Earth all but three Churches, drew a Plough over the whole, and sow'd it with Salt, as an Eternal Memorial of Reproach and Infamy upon the People, who had no way to redeem their Lives, but by drawing with their Teeth a Fig out of the Fundament of the Ass upon which they had set the Empress; and they that refus'd to do it were put to the Sword.

Nine years after the City was rebuilt, and rose by degrees in such a manner, that now it is call'd the Great. The Duchy of Milan is claim'd by the Kings of France, upon account that John Ga∣leazzo, first Duke of Milan, having given his Daughter Valentina in marriage to Lewis of France Duke of Orleans, Second Son of Charles the Fifth, surnamed the Wise, it was covenanted by the Articles of the Contract, That if the said John happen'd to dye without Male Issue, the Duchy of Milan should descend to Lewis his Son-in-Law, and his Successors. So that John-Maria and Philip-Maria dying without Legiti∣mate Offspring, the Succession belong'd without dispute to Charles Duke of Orleans, the Son of Lewis. Charles the Fifth was not ignorant of this Pretension, when he promis'd Francis the First, King of France, to give him the Investiture of it for one of his Sons, at the Sollicitation of the Electors of the Empire. But taking the advan∣tage of his Power, and the disorders of France,

the Emperor was so far from standing to his word, that he gave the Investiture to Philip the Second, his own Son; and ever since the Kings of Spain have possess'd that Duchy.

It is observ'd, that the City of Milan has been besieg'd 40 times, taken 22; that it has 22 Gates, including those belonging to the Suburbs; 230 Churches, 96 Parishes, and that it is 10 miles in circuit. It has a Senate, consisting of a President and twelve Senators, of which three must be natural Spaniards. There is in it so great a num∣ber of Handicraft Tradesmen, that 'tis common∣ly said, That Milan ought to be ruin'd to accom∣modate Italy. This City is defended by a Castle fortifi'd with six Bastions lin'd with Brick, and environ'd with Moats of running Waters. There are three different Inclosures able to make great Resistance; for which reason it is look'd upon to be one of the best Fortresses of Europe. It is about a mile in compass, containing whole Streets, wherein all manner of Artificers keep their shops. It also includes large Palaces, where the Officers lodge; and several Piazza's, in one of which 6000 men may be drawn up in Battel-array. There are in it likewise four Wells or Fountains, which are never empty; one Mill, above 200 Pieces of Cannon mounted upon the Bastions, not counting in those which are in the Arsenal, which is furnish'd with all manner of Arms. In one Hall of the Castle is to be seen the Cannon that kill'd Marshal Crequi when he besieg'd Breme, which is laid upon the Ground, to the end it may never be made use of again.

The Cathedral Church, which is call'd the Domo, is the largest and most superb in all Italy, except St. Peter's in Rome; being lin'd with Mar∣ble within and without, sustain'd with 60 Co∣lumns of white Marble, which three men can hardly fathom, the least of which cost 1000 Crowns; those of Adam and St. Bartholomew are the best esteem'd: The whole Church is a∣bout 250 Paces long. In St. Anthony's Church is to be seen a Brazen Serpent, which they would make you believe to be the same that Moses lifted up in the Desert; and that the Emperor Theodo∣sius brought it to Milan.

Strangers go to see the Great Hospital at Mi∣lan, considerable for the largeness and magnifi∣cence of it, the conveniency of the Building, and the good order of the Government. It is en∣dow'd with a Revenue for the maintenance of above 4000 Persons. The Chambers of the Sick are built in form of a Cross, with an Altar open on four sides in the middle, where the sick Peo∣ple go to say Mass at their going to bed. Be∣sides this Hospital, there is another upon the Moat of the City, wherein there are as many Chambers as there are Days in the Year.

There are to be seen at Milan the Ruins of Triumphal Arches, Baths, and other Roman Edi∣fices; and the Church of St. Lanrence, built af∣ter the Model of the Roman Pantheon, was a Temple dedicated to Hercules. In former times the Emperors were crown'd at Milan with an Iron Crown, and at Alexandria in the same Pro∣vince with a Crown of Straw.

The other Cities belonging to this Duchy are Coma, Cremona, Tortona, Lodi, Novara, Valencia, Pavia, &c. which are all considerable in some respect or other; but my purpose is to speak of Milan and Pavia only, which are the prin∣cipal.

Pavia, regularle fortified, is seated in a Plain upon the River Tecino. In the Cathedral is to be seen a small Mast of a Ship, which the People believe to be Rowland's Lance, who was Nephew to Charlemain. St, Austin's is remarkable for the Tomb where that Saint lies Enterr'd. In the Grand Piazza stands a Statue of the Emperor Constantine, though some will rather have it to be the Statue of the Emperor Antoninus. It stood formerly at Ravenna, from whence it was re∣mov'd to Pavia. And History observes upon this Subject, that Laurec the French General ha∣ving taken that City by storm in 1527, a Soldier of Ravenna, who enter'd first, desir'd of his Ge∣neral that Statue for his Reward, to the end he might send it back to Ravenna. But the Inhabi∣tants being more afflicted with that loss, then the loss of their Estates which the Soldiers were just going to plunder from 'em, or the Lives of their Country-men, made such lamentable Outcries, that they mov'd the Victor to let 'em have their Statue for a Crown of Gold, which he engag'd 'em to give the Soldier. The City of Pavia is adorn'd with a University, founded by Charle∣main, who, in 734, took the City, and Didier, the last King of the Lombards, Prisoner. In 1525, Francis the First having laid Siege to Pa∣via, and sent a part of his Army to Naples, Charles

the Fifth taking advantage of that Diversion, gave him Battel, which prov'd so fatal to France, that the King was taken Prisoner, and carry'd into Spain. 'Tis observ'd, that this happen'd up∣on St. Matthias's day, a day always fortunate to that Emperor. For he was born upon that day, and receiv'd the Imperial Crown upon that day.

CHAP. IV. Of the Republic of Genoa.

THE State of Genoa, is a Fief of the Empire which possesses that part of the Mediterra∣nean Coast, which we call La Riviera di Genoa, and which was heretofore the Country of the ancient Ligurians. This Republic carries the Name of The Capital City, which some will have to derive the Name of it from Janus. At this day it is divided into the Western and the Eastern Riviera; being bounded by the River Magro to the East, by the Principality of Monaco to the West, the Mountains of Piemont and Milanois to the North, and the Ligustic Sea to the South.

The Maritime Force of this Commonwealth consists in Armed Gallies, and two Men of War carrying between 60 and 70 Guns apiece, for the security of Trade. Upon a case of Extremity they can bring into the Field 30000 Foot. There are about 69000 Souls in the City of Genoa, 80000 in the Eastern Riviera, and about 113000 in the Western Riviera. The Revenues of this

Republic amount to 1200000 Crowns, but in regard the most part of it is engag'd for the Debts of the State, there remains not above 150000 Livres, as I have learnt from the most exact Memoirs drawn up by a Person, who by reason of his Employment was perfectly well acquainted with the Finances of the Republic.

The Money stamp'd with the Arms of Spain goes currant in the State of Genoa, when it is Weight. Nevertheless, the Republic coins Pi∣stolets, Genoeses, Piasters, Reals, and some other small Money. The Spanish Pistole is worth 17 Livres 16 Sols, which is as much as 3 Piasters; one Genoese goes for 3 Piasters and a half. The Piaster of Perou, which weighs a French Crown, is worth 4 Livres 16 Sols: So that a French Livre amounts to 32 Sols of Genoa.

The Genoeses are very expert in Sea-Affairs, and have contributed very much toward all the Enterprizes that have been undertaken for the Conquest of the Holy Land. In former times they won from the Infidels the Kingdoms of Corfu, Sardinia, and Cyprus; as also the Islands of Mete∣lite and Chio; and have been Masters of the Ci∣ties of Coffa and Pera. 'Tis true, that at present they are despoil'd of all these Countries except Corse, from whence they have no other advan∣tage but that of a Royal Crown affixed over the Arms of the Republic, and the Title of Most Serene. The Genoeses are proud and inconstant; of which, the sundry sorts of Government which they have admitted within these few years are an uncontroulable Proof. At present they keep much to the humour of the Spaniards, even to an

Affection of their Habit. Nor are they be∣lov'd by the rest of the People of Italy, among whom these Characters of the Genoeses are very common. Gente senza Fide, Mare senza Pesce, Monte senza Legno, & Donna senza Veregogna. A people without Faith, a Sea without Fish, Moun∣tains without Wood, and Women without Modesty.

The Genoeses differ from the Spaniards in this, that they are much addicted to Trade and La∣bour. The Gentlemen drive a Trade in all manner of Stuffs, which they sell by Wholesale; for they are not permitted to sell by Retail, nor to keep Shops. 'Tis a custom in Genoa, That the Parties never sign the Acts which are pass'd before the Public Notary, who by this means are the Masters of the Estates and Tranquility of Families. Nor do the Witnesses sign their Depositions, neither are they brought Face to Face with the Parties accus'd. The Nobility are not to have either directly or indirectly any private Communication with any Foreign Mi∣nisters.

When a Stranger arrives at Genoa, he is oblig'd to give in his Name to the Commissioners ap∣pointed, from whom they have leave to remain four days in the City, without which they would not be admitted into any Inn. And it is obser∣vable, that if a Man be not very careful to car∣ry this Permission about him, and to renew it in case he intends to stay any longer, he is in dan∣ger to be seiz'd by the Sbirri, and condemn'd to a Forfeiture of 5 Pistoles.

When they proceed to the Election of Sena∣tors, several persons put Money into that which

is call'd the Seminary, as into a Lottery: And they who have the good fortune to divine who will be the five Senators, whose Names are first drawn, among a hundred and twenty, out of a small Box by a little Boy, such is the multiplica∣tion of the Money at that sort of Play, that a Man who has ventur'd 10 Pistoles, may win be∣tween 7 and 800. Which thô it rarely falls out, yet the Accident is not without Example.

The Genoeses wear Fardingales, which is the reason that they frequently embarrass one ano∣ther when they meet in the Streets, which are very narrow. One day, a Lady made use of her Fardingale to get her Son out of Prison: He was about 18 years of Age, and was condemn'd to die. His Mother having leave to visit him in order to the taking of her last Leave of him, put him under her Petticoat, which was born up by a circle of Steel in stead of Whalebone, and two Women leading her as she went along, according to the custom of Italy, she got home, and was deliver'd without the help of a Mid∣wife, and the same day sent away her Child as far as Marseilles to Nurse. The most part of the Houses in Genoa are built with Terrasses at the top, where the Women go to dry their Hair after they have wash'd 'em, to make 'em look yellow.

There is no State in Europe that has submitted to so many sorts of Government, as that of Ge∣noa. Not to make an exact Enumeration of 'em, I shall only acquaint ye, That they were first subjected to the Romans, afterwards to the Lom∣bards, and then to the Emperors. 'Tis observ'd,

that from the year 1454, to 1528, Genoa has been under twelve sorts of Government. She has been rul'd by Consuls, Podesta's, Captains, Governors, Lieutenants, Rectors of the People, Abbots of the People, Reformers, Dukes both Noble and Popular, &c.

The Kings of France have been in possession of Genoa at several different times. In 1396, this City was surrender'd to Charles VI. and in 1409, the Inhabitants massacred the French, and put themselves under the Marquiss of Montfer∣rat. Four years after they chose Dukes. In 1421, they submitted to the Duke of Milan. But in 1436, being weary of that Government, they made choice of Dukes again, who go∣vern'd 'em till 1458, at what time they gave themselves into the Hands of Charles VII. King of France. In 1461, the French were expell'd to make way for the Popular Dukes, of whom there were five sorts in three years. After which the City surrender'd it self to Francis Forza Duke of Milan, who was expell'd in 1478, after which they had Dukes till 1488▪ and then the Duke of Milan took possession of it again.

History informs us, that the Genoeses having sent Ambassadors to Lewis XI. King of France, with Offers to surrender themselves into his hands; that Monarch, who foresaw how little reason they had to rely upon the Faith of a People so inconstant and subject to rebel, re∣turn'd 'em for Answer, That if they gave their City to him, he would give it to the Devil. How∣ever it were in 1499, Lewis XII. took Genoa by Assault, and had resolv'd to ruin it by Fire

and Sword. But the Inhabitants having laid about four thousand small Children in the Grand Piazza that cry'd out for Mercy, The King touch'd with compassion, pardon'd the Pa∣rents in favour of the innocent Children. But the People growing never the better for it, re∣volted in 1506; the French retook it in 1507, and were expell'd again in 1512. The next year they got possession of it once more, and re∣main'd Masters of it till 1522, at what time the City was taken and pillag'd by the Army of Charles V. Francis I. reconquer'd it in 1527; but the next year Andrew Doria, a Genoese, who commanded the French Fleet, revolted, and be∣traying his King and his own Honour, made use of the Forces of the French Crown to deliver Genoa from the Dominion of France; and since that time it has been govern'd by a Senate, of which the chief, who is call'd the Duke, is chang'd every two years.

This new Government is Aristocratical: The Duke is assisted with eight Senator-Governors, and four Procurators; two of which, in their turns, lodge with him in the Ducal Palace four months in the year: And this is that which is call'd the Senate. But the Basis and Foundation of the Republic resides in the Grand Council, compos'd out of 400 Gentlemen chosen out of the ancient and new Nobility. This Council deliberates joyntly with the Duke and the Sena∣tors of whatever concerns Peace or War. There are also two sorts of Noble Families, which are dist••nguish'd by Antiquity and new Creation; the number of the first is no more then 28, the

others are in all 437; and the Duke and the Senators are chosen alternatively out of these two sorts of Nobility.

Philip II. King of Spain, and his Successors, out of a Prospect purely politic, have insensibly fasten'd the Genoeses to their Interests, by bor∣rowing vast Sums of Money. Philip II. bor∣row'd two Millions of this Republic, which was never repay'd: Quite the contrary this Sum has been so multiply'd, as well by new Loans, as by the Interests added to the Principal, that it has occasion'd a common Saying, That the King of Spain holds the Genoeses faster chain'd to his Yoak, then if he were in possession of the City; In regard these Republicans must be either Slaves to his Catholic Majesty, or lose their Debt.

The Duke must be at least 50 years of Age before he can be Elected; and after his two years Regency, he cannot obtain the same Em∣ployment till after the expiration of 12 years. He can admit no Visits, give no Audiences, open no Letters that are directed to him, but in the presence of the Senators that are lodg'd with him in his Palace. His Robe of Ceremony is of Red Velvet or Damask, made after the old fashion, ruffled below, with a pointed Cap of the same Stuff with the Robe. When the term of his Regency is expir'd, which falls out to be upon the 13th of August, at 14 a Clock and half an hour after, he repairs to the Assembly of the Colledges, where the Secretary of the Assembly returns him Thanks in these terms: Vostra Sere∣nita ha fornito il suo tempo, vostra Eccellenza sene vadi a casa. Your Serenity has compleated your Time,

you may return home again. Which he does at the same time, and being come to his own door, he returns Thanks to the Senators and Gentle∣men that attended him; which done, he puts off his Red Robe, and puts on his Senators Gown, which he wears all the rest of his Life.

Three Days after, they proceed to the Electi∣on of a new Duke, the Dean of the Senators performing the Function. Presently the Grand Council is call'd together, which names Fifteen Persons proper for that Dignity: out of these Fifteen the Little Council chuses Six, who be∣ing communicated back to the Grand Council, they chuse One, who, nevertheless is not Crown'd till Three Months after, thô some have been Crown'd sooner; and among others, Francesco Maria Sercaro, who was Elected, and Crown'd the same day. The Ceremony is perform'd by the Arch-Bishop of Genoa in the Cathedral Church. Moreover, the Duke and the Senators are oblig'd to take the Communion twice a year, at Christmas and Easter.

The Lesser Council is compos'd of the Duke, the Senators, the Colledges, and 200 Gentlemen, none under Seven and twenty years of Age. This Council is Summon'd together by the sound of a Bell; and as every Gentleman enters into the Chamber, an Usher in a long Red Robe presents him with a little wooden Ball Silver'd over, which he throws into a Bason over against the Duke. When all the Noblemen are enter'd, the Door is shut, and the Chancellor counts the Balls, that he may know the number of those that compose the Assembly; and after the Duke

has made known the occasion of their Assem∣bling, the Suffrages are gather'd after this man∣ner: A Sub-Chancellor distributes to every one a white Woollen or Linen Ball; and another Sub-Chancellor gives about a Black Ball; and a Third presents 'em with an Urn, which they call a Pix, where are Two Pipes the One for the Negative, the Other for the Affirmative, which close together at the top in such a manner, that the hand of him that throws in the Ball, covering all the entrance, it cannot be discern'd into which Pipe he puts in the Black or the White. It is also to be observ'd, that the Decrees of this Council must be render'd Authentick by a Hunderd thirty four Voices at least, which are Two Thirds of the Two hundred.

The Grand Council is compos'd of the Duke, the Senate, and all the Colledges, the lesser Council, and all the Nobility of the City. It is summon'd together after the same manner as the Lesser Council, and the Duke also Declares the occasion of their coming. It is then chiefly call'd together when any Law is to be abolish'd, or any new ones to be made; or when Plebean is to be admitted into the Nobility; or for the laying new Taxes or Impositions. In short, in this Assembly it is that all the Power and Au∣thority of the State resides. But these Matters are all prepar'd in the Lesser Council, before they are propos'd in the Grand ones.

The City of Genoa, adorn'd with an Arch-Bishoprick, is the Capital City of the State; Sur∣nam'd the Superb, as well by reason of the Hu∣mor of the Inhabitants, as the Magnificence of the Buildings; being seated by the Sea side up∣on

the Ascent of a Hill, in the Form of an Amphi-Theater. It is surrounded with good Walls on that side next the Land, and well fortify'd in all parts where it lies liable to be attackt. It is about Six Italian Miles in Circuit, but the Streets are very narrow and dark, by reason of the height of the Houses. Four Gates belong to it, a great number of Magnificent Palaces, and a good Harbor, tho' the entrance into it be somewhat difficult, by reason of several Rocks that lye round about it under water. It is defended by a Mole which the Genoeses built since they revolted from France. At the end of the Mole stands a Phanal, fot the direction of Ships that Sail along the Coast in the night time; and by the situation of the Lanthorn, they in the City understand what Course the Vessels steer, which they perceive. This Phanal is built in that part where Lewis XII K. of France built a Fort to bridle the City.

There is to be seen in Genoa an Aquaeduct, which carries the Water from one to the other end of the City, and which supplies an infinite number of Fountains; some of which furnish the Vessels before they put to Sea, with fresh Water. If they who Sail from Genoa to Legorne should happen to want Water, they will meet with a Spring of fresh Water in the middle of the Golph de l'Esprece, that bubbles up through the Salt Water, to the surface of the Sea, and still pre∣serves its sweetness.

The Domo (for so are all the Cathedrals call'd in Italy) is consecrated to St. Laurence. It is all lin'd without side with Black and White

Marble, having Three Doors in the Front, su∣stain'd with fair Columns of Marble. The Ri∣ches within-side also, is exactly correspondent to the out-side Imbellishments. But they who are desirous to see the Reliques, are oblig'd under a forfeiture, to leave their Weapons at the Door. An Iron Gate with Four Locks opens into the Treasury, of which, the Senators keep the Keys. Among other things, they shew ye a Dish all of one Emrauld, which they would make ye believe was presented to Solomon by the Queen of Sheba, and that Christ made use of it at his last Supper with his Disciples; adding withal, that when Antioch was taken, the Genoe∣ses made choice of it for their share of the Booty. Nevertheless, some Authors say, That Christ Eat the Paschal Lamb in a Silver Dish, as Richard Lassels the Famous English Traveller has observ'd. Moreover, they will have the Ashes of John the Baptist to be preserv'd in this Cathedral.

There are also other very fair Churches in Genoa, of which I forbear to say any thing, for fear of Prolixity; I shall also say nothing of the Palaces, of which there are almost as many as there are Houses. Which Magnificence has oc∣casion'd this Remark, that the Genoeses are the Richest Private Persons in Italy, and the poorest State, and that the People took as much care of their Private Estates, as the Venetians of their Republick. But of all the Palaces, Prince Doria's is, without all contradiction, the most Superb. For among other Rooms, there is in it a long Gallery pav'd with Black and White Marble, Sixscore Paces long, and Six and Twen∣ty

Broad, from whence you may behold all the Vessels and Ships that enter the Port of Genoa. The Apartments are so richly furnish'd, that a Governor of Milan, not being able to believe that they could all belong to Doria, told the Queen of Spain, who was to take Shipping at Genoa, that She should Lodge in one of the most Noble Palaces of the World, but that the sum∣ptuous Furniture, was borrow'd out of all the most wealthy Houses in the City.

Doria being told of this, before the Queens arrival, caus'd to be Engrav'd upon the Gate of his Palace, By the Grace of God and the King, the Whole belongs to the Master of the House. In his Garden is to be seen a large Statue of a Giant, under which is to be read the Epitaph of a Dog, that while he liv'd, had Five hundred Crowns a year allow'd him for his Maintenance.

There are few States of Europe where the Civil Policy is better establish'd then at Genoa. There are certain Magistrates who are call'd the Magistrates of Abundance, whose Care it is to see that the City be provided with Corn, Meal, Wine and Oil for a whole Year (how Dear soever it be) besides what comes daily to the Market, and to regulate and set the price of Provision, according to the Fertility or Scarcity of the Year. And to prevent mis-management, there are in all the Quarters of the City, more espe∣cially, near the Courts of Judicature, certain Holes in the Wall, into which all People have the liberty to throw in Accusations against those whom they suspect to have mis-manag'd themselves in their Imployments or Commissions;

and sometimes without any other Conviction it happens to be the misfortune of an innocent Person to be punish'd.

I must not conclude this Chapter, without speaking a word of that which gave the occasion to the Bombing of Genoa in 1684. by the French Fleet.

The King having make several complaints to this Republick, by Mr. S. Olon, his Envoy Ex∣traordinary, of the proceeding of this City, in opposition to the Interests of that Crown, and the injuries done his Subjects, that Minister could obtain no reasonable satisfaction. In the Second place, his Majesty demanded of the Re∣publick, free passage by Land through their Ter∣ritories, for his Salt to Cazal, and that he might erect a Magazine at Savona, of which the Ma∣gistrates of Genoa had one Key, to secure 'em from any suspition that it was vended in the City of Savona; which the Republick refused; and not so contented, they made a private Treaty with Spain against France, by which the Republick oblig'd themselves to maintain Four thousand Men in the State of Genoa, which were to be rais'd in the name of the Count de Melgar, and at the charges of the Republick; As also to add Six more Gallies to the Six al∣ready prepar'd, to joyn with the Spanish Fleet. The most Christian King therefore, inform'd of their Design, commanded his Minister to know their Reason, and offer'd at the same time his Mediation, or his Forces if they had occa∣sion.

But the Genoeses were so far from accepting the King's Proposals, that they return'd haughty and ambiguous Answers, which enforc'd the King to send a Fleet thither, to the end, that the ap∣pearance of it might scare 'em into their Duty. To that purpose M. de Signeley, Minister and Secretary of State, who was aboard the Fleet, being arriv'd in the Port of Genoa, sent for some of the Senators, to whom he made known the Causes of Resentment which the Republick had given the King, and that he was come to de∣mand Satisfaction: that in the mean time they might prevent the mischief that threaten'd 'em, if they unrigg'd the four new Gallies that were already fitted for Sea, and sent to Paris four Se∣nators to excuse their Miscarriages to his Maje∣sty. But they refused to accept of this Expedi∣ent; and were so bold as to let fly first of all upon the King's Gallies, which had not as yet committed any Act of Hostility; which drew upon 'em a shower of Bombs for some days, that ruin'd a good part of their Palaces.

There is also some reason to believe, that the King would not have stopp'd there, had not the Genoeses besought Pope Innocent XI. to intercede with his Majesty in their behalf, offering to give his Majesty such satisfaction as he should de∣sire. The King therefore, consented to an Ac∣commodation, which was Mediated by Ranuccio, Bishop of Fano, his Holiness's Nuncio, with M. Colbert, Minister and Secretary of State, whom his Majesty had appointed his Plenipotentiary 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Marquis de Marini, Envoy Extraordin•••••• from the Republick.

The Treaty was Sign'd at Versailles the 12th of February, 1685. Ratifi'd by the Republick the 25th of the same Month, and by his Maje∣sty the 3d. of March following, the substance of which was,

I. That the Duke then Governing, and Four of the Senators should repair to the King in their Cere∣monial Habit, and that the Duke, speaking in be∣half of the rest, should in the name of the Repub∣lick, acknowledge their extream Sorrow for having displeas'd his Majesty, and that he should in his Speech, make use of most submissive and respectful Expressions, and such as should manifest the sincere desire they had to merit his Majesties Good Will for the future, and carefully to study the preservation of it.

II. That the Duke and the Four Senators, at their return to Genoa, should exercise their Employments, and retain their Dignities, and that no others should be chosen into their Places during their absence.

III. That the Republick of Genoa, within a Months time, should dismiss all the Spanish Forces▪ that had been admitted into the strong Holds and Countrey belonging to the State, and should renounce from henceforth, by virtue of this Treaty, all other Leagues and Associations by them enter'd into, since the First of January 1683.

IV. That the Genoeses might refit at the same time, the same number of Gallies which they had three years agoe, and should lay up those that they had since Equipp'd.

V. That the Republick should restore to the French all that they could recover of the Effects that had

been taken from 'em in the City and Territories of Genoa, the King consenting, out of his Royal Com∣passion, that instead of Reparation of Damages, to which his Subjects might pretend, for such of their Effects as could not be found, that the Republick should engage themselves, as they did by this Article, to contribute toward the Repair of the Churches and Sacred Places endamag'd by the Bombs; the King referring it to the Pope to settle the Sum that should be thought convenient for that purpose, and to limit the time for bringing those Repairs to perfection.

VI. That the Republick should pay a Hundred thousand Crowns to the Count de Fiesque, in de∣duction of his ancient Pretensions, upon the sole con∣sideration that the said Count is under the King's Protection; and upon condition that the payment of this Money should no way prejudice the Reasons which the Republick has to alledge against the said Preten∣sions.

VII. That the King being content with the satis∣factions above-nam••d, will vouchsafe the Honour of his Favours to the Republick of Genoa.

VIII. That all Acts of Hostility shall cease by Land, from the day of this Treaty, and by Sea with∣in a Month; and the Pris'ners on both sides to be set at liberty.

IX. That this Treaty shall be Ratify'd, and the Ratifications exchang'd, at farthest within Three weeks, &c.

By vertue of this Treaty, the Republick sent the Duke Francis-Maria-Imperiale Lercaro, then ruling, together with four Senators, Marcellino Durazzo, Paris Maria Salvago, Giovanni Garibal∣do,

and Agostino Lomellino; who departed from Genoa the 29th of March, 1685. attended by six young Gentlemen appointed by the Repub∣lick.

They arriv'd the 10th of April at Lions, and the 18th at Paris; where the Duke spent about five and twenty days in preparing his Equipage, and the 4th of May had his Audience of the King at Versailles, to which he was conducted by M. Bonnueil Introductor of Embassadors. Some days before, he had caus'd the Nails that fasten'd the Cloath of State of his Coach to be taken a∣way, as being a distinction that belongs to none but Royal Persons, and Sovereign Princes. The King was seated upon a Throne rais'd ten or twelve steps at the end of the Great Gallery. The King had on each side of him, the Dauphin, Monsieur the King's Brother, the Duke of Bour∣bon, the Duke of Main, and the Count of Tho∣louze, and upon the Duke of Genoa's approach he rose up and put off his Hat: Then he caus'd the Duke to be cover'd, but the four Senators re∣main'd uncover'd.

The Duke made an elegant Harangue which I shall insert at the end of the Chapter. Which done, the Senators also made their Compliments, and it was observ'd that the Duke was uncover'd all the while the Senators spoke. The Audience being over, they were Treated at Dinner by the King's Order with all the Profusion and Magni∣ficence imaginable; and after Dinner resuming their Ceremonial Habits, which they put off be∣fore they sate down to Dinner, they were con∣ducted to wait upon Monseigneur, the Dau∣phiness,

the Dukes of Burgundy and Anjou, Mon∣sieur, Madame, and all the Princes and Princesses of the Royal Family. And it was observable that the Senators did not cover till they came to the Duke of Chartres's Apartment. They return∣ed that Evening to Paris, but the 18th and 23d they went back to Versailles in the Habit of Gen∣tlemen to view the Apartments, the Water-works, the place where the great Horses are manag'd, and the Castles of Trianon and Marli. The 26th the Duke and three Senators, Salvago being sick, had their Audience of leave of the King, and departed within a few days for Genoa, where they continu'd in their Employments, till the usual time of a new choice.

The Duke of Genoa's Speech to the King at Versailles, May 14th. 1685.

SIR,

MY Republick has always held it for one of the fundamental Maxims of their Go∣vernment, to signalize themselves by a profound Veneration for this great Crown, which being transmitted to your Majesty by your August Progenitors, you have exalted to so high a de∣gree of Power and Glory, by such prodigious and unheard of Atchievements, that Fame, up∣on other occasions accustom'd to multiply, proves deficient in this, not being able should she lessen 'em, to render your Great Actions cre∣dible to Posterity.

Prerogatives so sublime, that they enforce all States to look upon 'em with a most profound Obsequiousness, and have particularly induc'd my Republick to distinguish her self above all others, to manifest it in such a manner, that all the World may be apparently convinc'd of it: And the most terrible and fatal Accident that ever befel her is this of incurring your Maje∣sties high displeasure. I cannot therefore pro∣portionably display her extream Sorrow to have offended your Majesty; though she is apt to flatter her self that this is befallen through an effect of pure Misfortune, nevertheless she is desirous that whatever may have dissatisfy'd your Majesty, may be cancell'd at any rate, not only from your Memory, but from the Re∣membrance of all Men; she not knowing any way to alleviate her Afflictions till she beholds her self restor'd to your Majesties inestimable Favour.

Therefore, that she may become worthy of obtaining it, she assures your Majesty, that all her most intent Applications, and most sollici∣tous Cares shall be imploy'd to procure not only the preservation of it, but also to habituate her self to increase it. In order to which, not con∣tent with expressions the most proper and most obsequious, she resolv'd to make use of unusual and singular forms, sending her Duke and four Senators, in hopes that by such special Demon∣strations your Majesty will be fully convinc'd of the most high esteem which my Republick has of your Favour and Good Will.

As for my own part, Sir, I acknowledge it for my greatest good fortune, to have the Honour of declaring these my most sincere and most re∣spectful Sentiments, and prize above all things this Opportunity of appearing in the presence of so great a Monarch, who invincible for his Valour, and reverenc'd for his unparallel'd Magnanimity and Grandeur, as you have sur∣mounted all others in Ages Past, so you secure the same Prosperity to your Progeny. From so happy an Augury, I assume the Confidence, that your Majesty, to make known to the Uni∣verse the singularity of your most Generous Soul, will incline your Heart to look upon these Remonstrances no less just then sincere, as Testimonies not only of the Integrity of my Heart, as of the Minds of these Illustrious Se∣nators, and Citizens of my Country, who with Impatience attend the reciprocal Marks that your Majesty will vouchsafe to grant 'em of your Benignity and Kindness.

CHAP. V. Of the States of the Dukes of Parma and Modena.

THE Duke of Parma is a Vassal to the Ho∣ly See; to which he pays a Tribute of Ten Thousand Crowns for his Dutchies of Parma and

Piacenza. This State has undergone several Re∣volutions since the Decay of the Empire, till the Church being in peaceable Possession of it, Alex∣ander Farneze being advanc'd to the Pontificate, under the name of Paul III. erected Parma into a Dukedom, and gave it his Son Peter Farneze, in the year 1545. But the Emperor Charles V. dis∣puted the Possession of it with him, till the death of the said Duke, who died Two years after. However, Octavio Farneze his Son, being pow∣erfully protected by the King of France, secur'd that State to his Successors, by the Marriage of Margaret of Austria, natural Daughter of the same Emperor.

The Country adjoyning is very Ferril in Corn, Wine, Fruit, but more especially in Cheese, the excellency of which is sufficiently known. 'Tis sufficient to say that they make some of these Cheeses that weigh a Hundred and fifty pound, and that they are esteem'd for so great Delica∣cies among the Turks, that they are usually serv'd up to the Great Turk and his Visiers at their Ban∣quets. There are likewise several Wells of Salt Water in the adjacent parts, out of which they draw White Salt; and some Iron and Copper Mines.

The Revenue of the Duke of Parma amounts to Five hundred thousand Roman Crowns a year, which make Seventeen hundred and fifty Livres of France; and at a pinch of necessity, he is able to bring into the Field Eighteen thousand Foot of his own Subjects.

The City of Parma, Capital of the Dntchy, and where the Duke keeps his Court, is divided into three Parts by the River Parma, over which are built Three Bridges that joyn the whole to∣gether. It is adorn'd with a Bishoprick, under the Arch-Bishop of Bologna, and a Famous Uni∣versity, Founded in the year 1599, by Ranuccio Farneze. The Citadel consisting of Five Basti∣ons, is one of the strongest and best fortifi'd in Italy. Foreigners always visit the Dukes Palace, which is a most Magnificent Structure, wherein there was no spare made of Marble, Jasper or Porphyrie. The Gardens belonging to the Pa∣lace and the Cathedral Church, are the Rarities which next the Palace are worthy Observati∣on.

Piacenza is the Second City in the Duke of Parma's Territories; bearing the Title of a a Dutchy, with a Bishoprick Suffragan to Bologna. 'Tis thought that it deriv'd the name of it from the Situation, which is in a Plain extreamly Fer∣tile. It stands not far from the River Po, be∣ing about Five Miles in circuit. Near the City to the West, they shew ye the Place where St. Anthony call'd down Fire from Heaven upon the Soldiers that derided his Name. Thô what is more considerable, is the Fountain in the great Piazza of Piacenza, which Augustus caus'd to be brought to the City; and the Statue of Alexander Farneze the First, a Horseback, in Brass.

MOdenois, or the State of Medena, lies to the East of Parma. It was erected into a Dukedom by the Emperor Frederick III. in 1452. in favour of Borso d'Este. The Country abounds with Plenty of all things. As for the Dutchy it self, it holds of the Emperor, to whom the Duke of Modena pays a yearly Tribute of 4000 Crowns. The Revenue of it amounts to about a Million of Italian Livres, which make Seven hundred and fifty thousand Livres of France: and in a time of Need, the Duke is able to Arm Five and twenty thousand Men.

Modena the Capital of the Dutchy, is the usual Residence of the Duke. It is seated between the Rivers of Sechia and Panaro; and altho the Streets are somewhat narrow, yet it is a very pleasant Habitation. Foreigners go to see the Duke's and the Bishop's Palaces, the Cathedral and the Citadel, where there is nothing, how∣ever very remarkable. History informs us, that Modena was formerly a Roman Colony, and that after the death of Julius Caesar, Brutus was there in vain Besieg'd by Marc Antonie, in the year of Rome 710. That the City was afterwards ruin'd by the Goths and Lombards, and rebuilt under the Reign of the Sons Charlemain: and that it was near Modena, that in the year of Rome 711, Hir∣tius and Pansa were defeated by Marc Antonie. The Steeple of Modena is one of the Highest Towers in Italy.

CHAP. VI. Of the Territories of the Duke of Mantua.

THE Duke of Mantua holds the Fee of his Territories from the Emperor, by whom he is invested. Mantua was formerly no more then a Marquisate, till by Charles V. erected into a Dukedom in 1530. The Duke in present Pos∣session, is of the Illustrious House of Gonzaga, He assumes the Titles of Duke of Mantua, Mont∣ferrat and Guastalla, Perpetual Vicar of the Em∣pire, &c. The Country is seated between the Territories of the Church, the States of Modena, Venice and Milancis, in length about Fifty Miles, and Forty broad. The Po that runs through it, makes it one of the most fertile Countries in Italy, especially in Corn; seeing that one good Harvest is sufficient to supply the Inhabitants for Five Years. 'Tis true, that by reason of the Inun∣dations of the Po, the Wine's a little Green and Sowre.

His Highness may be able to bring into the Field, an Army of Twelve thousand Foot, and Eight hundred Horse, and his Revenue amounts to 300000 Crowns a Year, the chiefest part of which is raised either by his Mills, or upon the Jews, who give considerable Sums for liberty of Free Trade; but they are oblig'd to wear Yellow Ribonds in their Hats, to distinguish 'em from the Christians.

The City of Mantua is the Metropolis of the Dutchy. It is seated in a Lake Twenty Miles in compass, that fills the River Mincius, so that there is no way to approach it, but over two Causeys, with two Draw-Bridges at the ends. Upon this Lake, there are a prodigious quanti∣ty of Mills; and it is remarkable that there are Three in one House that serve to Spin, Wind, Double and Twist Silk, which are manag'd by one single Man.

This City is very Ancient: The Poets Virgil and Fass were both born in Mantua; nor is it less remarkable for the Manufacture of Tab∣bies, and other rich Silks. The Streets are broad, Straight, and very neat. It contains about Four miles in compass, having Eight Gates, Eighteen Parishes, Forty Convents, and one particular Quarter for the Jews. There is the same Custom observ'd here as in most of the other Cities of Italy; that is, that at your entrance into the City you are oblig'd to leave your Fire Arms at the Gate, which are return'd to you again upon your de∣parture at the Gate, which you go forth at. But you must be careful to mark 'em that you may know 'em again.

Travellers take great delight to visit the Ma∣nufactures, the Town-house, the Cathedral, the Roof of which is all over Gold and Azure, but more especially the Duke's Palace, which without Question is the fairest Ornament of the City: Nor is it without good reason, that this Palace is said to be able to lodge five Kings with all their Retinue; there being no less then five hun∣dred and fifty Chambers in it richly furnish'd

every one (though formerly there were seven hundred. The Apartments design'd for the Lodging of Princes, Embassadors, and Cardinals, are proportionable in Magnificence to the Gran∣deur of the Person that is to be entertain'd in 'em. There are Beds embroider'd with Gold and Pearls, Silk Tapestries emboss'd with Gold. Six Tables about three foot long, of which the one is all compos'd of Emraulds so well joyn'd toge∣ther, that you would swear it to be all one stone, as well as the rest, which are one compos'd of Turquoises, a third of Violet Saphirs, one of Am∣ber, and another of Jasper. There is also to be seen a Noble Organ of Alabaster; After which I think it needless to give a description of the Gold, Silver and pretious Stones that glister in all the Cabinets, nor of the Silver, Brass, and Marble Statues that adorn the Chambers and the Galle∣ries; for there is no question but that every thing else is correspondent to the Magnificence of the Palace, and the Grandeur of the Prince who is the Lord of it. Give me leave to say this by the by, that there are Harnesses for Horses all cover'd with Pearls and Diamonds, a great number of Arms enrich'd in the same manner: Chalices of Gold, Crosses Basons and other Or∣naments of the Chappels belonging to the Cardi∣nals of the same House, all enrich'd with Pearls, Rubies, Emraulds and other pretious Stones. To which I shall add, that all this Wealth was much more considerable before the Palace was pillag'd by the Emperour Ferdinand the Second's Forces, under the Conduct of Colalto; who made himself Master of it in 1630. at what time the Barba∣rism

of the Soldiers, not being satiated with the Plunder, was such, that they broke and spoil'd an infinite number of Statues, and rare pieces of Workmanship.

CHAP. VII. Of the State and Republick of Venice.

WE call the State of Venice the whole Extent of Territory that the Republick possesses in Italy, which was part of the lower Lombardy. Venice is likewise Mistress of Istria, Dalmatia, the Morea, and part of the Islands of the Archi∣pelago. This Republick is the only Sovereign State in Italy, the rest being Feudataries either to the Church or to the Empire. The Air of Venice is not wholsome, as being annoy'd byt he stench of the Canalls, which together with the little Society that Strangers find there for the reasons which I shall hereafter mention, is the occasion that Travellers care not to reside long in the City, when they have once seen the Curi∣osities that beautifie it.

This Republick is addrest to by the Title of most Serene, as being the most Potent State of Italy. The Revenue of it amounts to about Fif∣teen Millions; and the City of Venice alone pays about Two Millions and Five hundred Thousand Ducats; nor is it less true that she alone contri∣butes

as much as all the demeans which she pos∣sesses upon the firm Land. She is very sparing, and lays up vastly in time of Peace, of which, her famous Treasury of St. Mark is an undenia∣ble Proof.

In a time of need, she is able to set out to Sea Two hundred sail of Ships and Gallies, and to Arm 400000 of her own Subjects. In times of Peace she always keeps Forty Gallies in pay, to clear the Golph of the Pyrates of Barbary. When the Republick is at War with the Turk, she al∣ways makes use of Foreign Forces, which she hires out of Germany and other places; reser∣ving her own Subjects to People her Cities and her Conquests; which nevertheless does no way diminish her Treasure, for that the Money which she lays out, is all spent again in her own Ter∣ritories.

Almost all the Money currant in Italy goes at Venice, proportionably to their weight and Alloy. Nevertheless the Republick Coins Pistols, Se∣quins, Ducats, Crowns, Pieces of Twenty four Sols, Twenty Sols, and Gazettes, &c. The Sequin is worth Seventeen Livres or Two Ducats; the Pistole Eight and twenty Livres; the Ducatoon Six Livres Four Sols; the Crown Nine Livres, Twelve Sols, and the Gazette, Two Sols. The Ducatoon is not worth above Fifty French Sols; and between Forty Eight and Fifty Sols of Venice, make a Livre of France.

'Tis not without reason that Venice is counted one of the richest Cities in the World, in regard it was never yet taken or plunder'd by her Ene∣mies; which makes it a common Saying, That

'tis as impossible that Money should be wanting in the Treasury of St. Mark, as Soldiers in France.

The City of Venice is the Metropolis of the whole State: and I have already said that she is very potent, and I may add, That if she had but plenty of Fresh Water, she would want nothing. But that defect proceeds from her being built upon Seventy two Fenny Islands. Most Authors agree, that Venice was Founded in the year 421. of Christ; to which others more precisely add, That the Building was begun upon the 25th of March; which day is principally observ'd, for that it was the day when the World was Crea∣ted, and of the Incarnation of Christ. The In∣habitants of Padua were they who Founded this City, at what time Attila King of the Hunns, after he had laid Aquileia in Ashes, undertook to subdue and ruine all Italy. His Cruelties en∣forc'd the Paduans and other People that inha∣bited between the Alps and the Golph, now call'd The Golph of Venice, to shelter themselves in cer∣tain unwholsome Fenns. And in the year 421. they began to build some Houses in the Island of Rialto, which was proclaim'd to be the Place of Sancturay and Refuge; and so in process of time those Buildings multiply'd in such a manner, that Venice now takes in Seventy two Islands, joyn'd together with 450 Bridges: and because the Soil would not admit of any solid Foundati∣ons, they built upon Piles, as they do at Amster∣dam in Holland. The Bridge of Rialto, over the Great Canal, is the most beautiful in Venice, and indeed in all Europe. It has but one Arch, all of Marble, built upon 6328 Piles, and border'd

with two rows of Shops. The situation of the City in this manner, is the reason that there is no use of Coaches in Venice, so that when they goe from one place to another, they take Water in Shallops or Boats call'd Gondola's, with which the Canals are cover'd. The Canals and the Bridges are Lin'd with a White shining Stone, and in regard the Women are handsome, and the Gown-men very severe, this has occasion'd a Proverb, which admonishes Travellers to have a care of the Women, the White Stones, and the Men of the long Robe.

At first the Government of Venice was Demo∣cratical, under Consuls and Tribunes. Every Island had their particular Consuls, that assum'd to themselves a Petty Sovereignty. But the Jealousies that arose among 'em, were the occa∣sion that in the year 709. the Tribunes of the Twelve Principal Islands, resolv'd to set up a Republick, and to elect a Chieftain to Command 'em; and first of all they cast their Eyes upon Paolo Lucio Anafesto, to whom they gave the Ti∣tle of Duke or Doge. This First Duke and his Successors Rul'd with Absolute Authority till the year 1172. because that in their Life time they caus'd their Sons or their Brothers to be chosen to succeed 'em; and went about in that manner to perpetuate the Ducal Dignity in their Fami∣lies. But the Principal Citizens abolish'd the Election which was made till then by the Peo∣ple, and set up an Independent and Sovereign Council, out of which they elected their Duke. This Tribunal was compos'd of 240 Citizens, indifferently chosen out of the Nobility, the

Burgesses and Artificers; and at the same time they created Twelve Tribunes,, who were to oppose the Decrees of the Prince, if they ap∣pear'd to be unjust. This Form of Government lasted till the year 1289. at what time Duke Pe∣ter Gradenigo chang'd it into a Real Aristocracy, such as it is at this day; all the Authority be∣ing devolv'd into the hands of a certain number of Families, writ down in a Golden Book, which is the Register of the Venetian Nobility.

There are four different Councils in Venice; the first which is called the Grand Council, com∣pos'd of 2000 Noblemen; out of which they choose all the Magistrates, Podesta's, Generals of their Armies, Proveditors, Ambassadors, &c. and they make all the Laws which are deem'd necessary for the Welfare of the State. The se∣cond is call'd the Council of Pregati, which de∣termines all things that relate to Peace or War, Alliances or Leagues; and this is that which we call the Senate of Venice. The third is the Coun∣cil call'd the Colledge, compos'd of 26 Noble∣men, that gives Audience to Ambassadors, and carries their Demands to the Senate. The fourth is the Council of Ten, which judges all Crimes against the State, and is the most redoubted Council in Europe. This Council is renew'd eve∣ry Year. This Council every Month chooses three Inquisitors of State, who are always taken out of the Ten, to the end that every one may serve in his Turn, and the Authority of this Tri∣umvirate is such, that they have as much Power over the Duke's Life, as over the Life of the meanest Subject, without acquainting the Senate.

This Council has cavs'd several Heads of Mar∣ble to be plac'd against the Walls of the Palace with gaping Mouths, upon which these words are to be read, Secret Denunciations, into which they who have any accusation against any Magi∣strate, or other person holding Criminal Corre∣spondence, throw in little Notes. And upon these Accusations it is, and sometimes upon the least suspicion that they put People to Death, who are sometimes guilty of no other Crime then not to please their Enemies. For such is the Policy of Venice rather to take away the Lives of the Innocent, then to let the Guilty go unpunish'd. We must not forget that all the No∣bility, when they betake themselves to the Church, are excluded from all their Councils, and from all Employments in the State to pre∣vent the Court of Rome from having any know∣ledge of the Secrets of the State.

As to Spirituals, Venice is govern'd by a Pa∣triarch, who by a particular Rubrick, at the be∣ginning of his Commands and Orders never sets any other Titles, than N. divina misericordia Ve∣netiarum Patriarcha, without ever adding, like the Prelates of the Roman Church, Et Sanctae sedis Apostolicae gratia, as if he were no Member of it. He is Primate of Dalmatia, and Metropolitan of the Archbishopricks of Candy and Corfu. Venice has also another Patriarch within her Territories, that is to say, the Patriarch of Aquileia, who re∣sides at Ʋdena in Friuli, And in regard the Ci∣ty of Aquileia now belongs to the Emperour, he pretends to have a Right to appoint the Patriarch. But the Venetians, to the end the Patriarchate may

never become vacant, have empowr'd the Patri∣arch to nominate a Coadjutor and Successor, so soon as he is advanc'd to that Dignity, which the Senate presently confirms, if they deem him worthy of it.

The Employment of Duke of Venice is for life, and generally they choose to that Dignity an Old Man, who has been Ambassador in the principal Courts of Europe, and who is perfectly acquain∣ted with Forreign Countries. He cannot stir out of the Laguna without leave, and can do nothing without the Advice of his Counsellors which are allotted him, chosen out of the most considera∣ble Gentlemen of the Republick. When the Duke gives his Opinion in the Senate, he has but one Voice; but his suffrage goes for two in the Grand Council. The Duke is clad in a Purple Robe with hanging Sleeves; and when he parades upon any publick Ceremony, he walks under a Canopy of Cloth of Gold, eight Silver Trumpets marching before him, and a Youth carrying a Torch of white Wax; a Sword is also carried before him as a mark of his dependency. All Declarations and Letters of State are written in his Name, and the Money is also stamp'd with his Portraiture, though there is always on the Reverse a Lyon and the Image of St. Mark, with the Duke kneeling before him.

The Duke is Elected after the following man∣ner: The Grand Council being assembl'd at the hour prefix'd, the Door is shut; and after they have counted the number of those in the Hall, they throw into a Bason an equal number of little Balls, among which there are thirty guilt; and

when they are well jumbl'd and mix'd, every Gentleman goes and takes one. Then the Thirty that have the Golden Balls, assemble together in another Room, where there are ready prepar'd as many little Balls, of which there are but Nine guilt. These Nine Gentlemen whose chance it is to light upon the Nine guilt Balls, choose out forty Gentlemen of the Assembly, which for∣ty are reduc'd to Twelve by means of the guilt Balls; and those Twelve elect Five and twen∣ty, which are reduc'd to Nine. Those Nine choose out Forty five, who are reduced at length to Eleven, who choose out One and forty Gen∣tlemen, and they Elect the Duke. This Tedious Ballating prevents the Effects of Canvossing. Now when these Electors are approv'd by the Grand Council, they are shut up in the Palace of St, Mark, out of which they never stir till they have Elected the Duke. And it is to be observ'd, that though the Election be authentick, it must be corroborated by Five and twenty Suffra∣ges; and while the Electors are thus shut up, they are carefully guarded, and diligently lookt after, almost in the same manner as the Cardinals in the Conclave.

The Venetian Nobility is distinguish'd into four Classes: The first comprehends the Families de∣scended from the Tribunes, who in the Year 709. were the Electors of the first Duke of Ve∣nice, and which have continu'd by a kind of Mi∣racle to this present time. Those Twelve Electo∣ral Families are the Contarini, the Morosini, Ba∣douari, Ziopoli, Micheli, Sanudi, Gradenighi, Me∣onni, Falieri, Dandoli, Polani, and Barozzi.

There are also other four Noble Families that have continu'd in a Lineal Succession ever since the Year 800, viz. The Justiniani, Cornari, Bragadini and Bembi. For which reason the first are vulgarly call'd the Twelve Apostles, and the latter the four Evangelists. The second Classis of Noblemen, are they that began to be enregister'd in the Golden Book▪ when Grade∣nigo the Duke settled the Aristocracy in 1289. The third comprehends about fourscore and ten or a hundred Families, who purchas'd their No∣bility for a Thousand Ducats apiece. These No∣blemen are never employ'd in the high Prefer∣ments of the Republick. The fourth Order of Nobility is that which the Republick confers up∣on Forreign Princes and other Illustrious Perso∣nages. Thus Hen. III. and Hen. IV. of France were admitted into the Body of the Nobility of Venice.

The Noble Venetians walk the Streets in a long Black Robe, and a Bonnet of black Tissue, border'd with a Fringe that hangs round about, and falls down over their Hair; for they are not suffer'd to wear Perriwigs; their Gowns are o∣pen before, and discover a rich Cassock; their Shooes are all of black Spanish Leather; and for their Gate and Aire, they are very Grave and Majestick. But this Nobility of theirs deprives 'em of the freedom of conversing with Forreign∣ers: Nor will their Jealousie of all other Nati∣ons, permit 'em so much as to give Strangers a Visit, or to pay the least Civility to Ambassadors, their Wives, nor any other person belonging to their Retinue, without express leave from the

Senate. Nor dare they speak to a Venetian Mer∣chant, if he be known to frequent a Forreign Minister's House.

Having thus discours'd of the Government, both Politick and Ecclesiastick of Venice, I shall only speak one word of what is most worthy the Curious Observation of Travellers. If they happen to be there at the Festival of the Ascensi∣on, they will see the Ceremony, which is annu∣ally perform'd upon that Day, of the Duke's E∣spousing the Sea. At what time the Duke and the Senators in their Purple Robes, accompanied by the Patriarch, the Pope's Nuncio, and the Ambassadors go aboard the Bucentaure, which is a sort of Galley with several Decks, guilded down to the Water, and cover'd with Crimson Velvet with broad Gold Fringes; and attended by all the Nobility and the People in four or five Thousand Gondola's and other Vessels, rows for∣ward within a Mile of the Main Sea. And then it is that the Duke Espouses the Golf of the Adriatick Sea, in Testimony that the Republick is the Mistress of it. The Ceremony of this E∣spousal is perform'd by casting a Gold Ring into the Sea, and saying these words, We Espouse Thee our Sea, as a Mark of real and perpetual Su∣periority. After which the Patriarch gives his Benediction, accompanied with the roaring of the Canon. Thence they go to hear Mass upon the Lido, and so return to the Palace, where the Duke treats all the Senators and Great Lords. Alexander III. instituted this Ceremony as a Mark of Gratitude to the Republick, who had so strenuously upheld him against the Prosecuti∣ons,

of the Emperour Frederick Barbarossa. But it is an Errour to believe upon the Credit of some Historians, ill inform'd, that the Repub∣lick of Venice held the Soveraignty of the Adri∣atick, by Donation from that Pope; for besides that it was never disputed with the Venetians, the Holy See never had, nor ever pretended to any Right over the Adriatick; so that that same Pontiff could never bestow upon the Republick a thing that never was in his power to give. And there needs no more then to read the Pope's own words to the Duke Ziani, while he acknow∣ledg'd the Republick's Right, and instituted the Ceremony of Espousing the Sea. Receive (said he) this Ring, to give it every Year upon the same Day to the Sea, as to your lawful Spouse, so that your Posterity may know that the Sea belongs to You by Right of Arms.

The Cathedral Church was formerly dedicated to St. Theodore; but after the Body of St. Mark was brought thither from Alexandria, the City made choice of that Saint for her Patron, and the Church is Consecrated under his Name; be∣ing one of the most Beautiful Edifices in the World; and what is more surprizing is, that such a weighty Bulk should have no other Foun∣dation then Piles. The Tower which serves for a Steeple, is one of the highest in Italy. The Church is built of nothing else but Marble of all Colours, the finest in all Italy; and the Floor is pav'd with Jasper and Porphyrie wrought in Mosaick work. The chief Altar is sustain'd by four large Pillars, upon which in Releif you see engrav'd the History of the Old and New Testament;

and over it stands a Globe of Gold and Silver, enrich'd with Pearles and Diamonds. The Chap∣pel of the Holy Sacrament is supported by four Columns of Alablaster, which, as they say, had been Pillars in the Temple of Solomon. The Church divided into five Domes, is cover'd with Lead, and has four Brass Gates; over the Prin∣cipal of which stand four Horses of the same Mettal guilt, made formerly on purpose for the Triumphal Arch erected at Rome in Honour of Nero, after he had vanquish'd the Parthians, and afterwards carry'd to Constantinople, to adorn Constantine's Triumphal Arch, and afterwards brought away by the Venetians when they sack'd that great City. This wonderful Structure is supported by thirty six Columns of Marble two foot in Diameter: and the ascent to the Steeple which is 246 Foot high, and 40 broad, is so made as to be very easie, and without Stairs.

The Treasury of this Church encloses a vast heap of immense Riches. Among other things Twelve Regal Crowns, and Twelve Corslets of Massie Gold, enrich'd with Pearls and Diamonds. Ten Rubies of eight Ounces each. One Saphir of ten Ounces: A Vessel all of one single Emrauld: A Dish of one single Turquoise: A Pail to take up water, the whole but one Granate: The Duke's horned Bonnet set with large Diamonds and Oriental Pearls, with an infinite number of other costly Rarities: not to speak of the Or∣naments of the Church, as a great number of Pixe, Candlesticks, Silver and Chrystal, toge∣ther with an infinite number of Relicks, among

which the chiefest are the Body of St. Mark and his Gospel, written by his own hand.

They who have a mind to visit St. Luke's Church, may there see Peter Aretimes Tomb, who liv'd in the Fifteenth Age, famous for his Satyrical Writings, which acquir'd him Presents and Pensions from several great Men, and among others from Charles V. and Francis I. King of France; whither they fear'd his Satyrs, or lik'd his manner of Writing; which occasion'd the following Epitaph to be made upon him.

Qui giace L'Aretin, Poeta Tosco, Chi d'ognun disse mal, che di dio, Scusandosi col dir, Jo no'l conosco.

Here Aretin lies, reduc'd to Earthy Clod, Who wrote in Tuscan Language many a Poem, And rail'd at all Mankind, yet spar'd his God; But his Excuse was this, He did not know Him.

The Palace of St. Mark's is admir'd by all Forreigners. It has two Fronts, lin'd with red and white Marble, and cover'd with Plates of Brass, since the Conflagration in 1514. which melted down the Lead with which it was over∣laid before. There is nothing but Gold and A∣zure to be seen in all the Apartments, with an infinite number of very fair Statues, all curious pieces of Workmanship. The Grand Council-Chamber is 150 Foot long, and 73 broad, sur∣rounded with other Chambers full of Fire Arms; of which the greatest part are always charg'd. Among others are to be seen the Arms which

Henry IV. made use of to reduce his Kingdom to Obedience, and which he presented to the Repub∣lick. One Piece of Canon and the Carriage all of Massie Silver: A Coffer, at the opening of which four Pistols discharge, and would kill the Person that opens it if they were charg'd: A large Canon that discharges thrice at one time; and a small Piece that discharges seven times at once. In this Armory there are Muskets, Pikes and Swords to arm a Thousand Men in an In∣stant, for the security of the Senate: And all things are dispos'd in such a manner, that by pulling a Cord at one end, the Arms fall into the Hands of those that have occasion for 'em. The Muskets are always charg'd; and they who are possessed of 'em, as they go out of the Ar∣mory, will find a large Globe boar'd thorough with as many holes as there are Muskets, in eve∣ry one of which there sticks a Match ready to be drawn out lighted; in regard that by means of an Engin, and the Powder which is scatter'd in those Concavities, they can set fire to all those Matches in a Moment.

The Piazza of St. Mark is environ'd with beau∣tiful Houses, of which the Symmetry is very gracefully order'd. The Mint is one of the fairest, and so built, that there is no danger of Fire, because that all the Gates and Windows are of Iron, and for that there is no Wood made use of in the whole Structure. In the midst of the Piazza, three large Masts of a Ship are fix'd upright in the Ground, upon which the Repub∣lick's Standards of Gold and Silk are hung out upon solemn days, and at the end toward the

Sea side, stand two Marble Pillars all of one piece about sixty fathom high, and eight in com∣pass; upon one of which is erected St. Mark's winged Lyon, and upon the other the Statue of St. Theodore.

The Arsenal of Venice is one of the most beau∣tiful, and one of the best supply'd with all sorts of Arms of any in Europe. There they shew to the Curious the Arms of Bajamonte Theopoli, who at the Head of Eight Ragamuffins had resolv'd to murder the Senate in the Council Chamber, and to have seiz'd upon the Soveraignty. They carry'd all their Weapons conceal'd under their Cloaths: But as they were hastning to the Pa∣lace, a Flower-pot fell out of a Window upon the Head of their Captain, and beat out his Brains; which so dismay'd the rest of his Ac∣complices, that believing their design discover'd, they all dispers'd, and the Senate by that means escap'd. They also shew ye the Sword of Scan∣derbeg, Prince of Albania, who won no less then seven Battels from the Turks, with which he cleft a Man quite through at one blow. There is also a great number of other Arms and Wea∣pons very curious, and among the rest a Coffer, which they call the Devils Organs, because that if you open it, it discharges several Pistols, that scattering their Shot about the Room, make a great havock of all that are in it.

After you have seen the City of Venice, Tra∣vellers always visit the Glass-house at Mirano, where they make admirable pieces of Workman∣ship of that brittle Mettal, which are transported over all Europe.

But in regard I do not undertake to write the History of Venice, I forbear to speak of all the Places which that Republick possesses in Italy. I shall therefore only say something of Padua which is one of the Ancientest Cities in the Venetian Territories, being about 2300 Paces in Circuit. 'Tis said, that Antenor was the Founder of it, and that it is much more ancient then either Rome or Venice. The Church of St. Anthony of Lisbonne is famous, because that St. Anthony, now call'd St. Anthony of Padua, lies there interr'd: And they say, that the Stone that covers his Tomb, smells of Musk: However certain it is, that 'tis the most beautiful Church in the City. The Pa∣lace where Justice is administer'd, is cover'd with Lead, and there is an Ascent of four large Marble Steps up to it. The Great Hall is 256 Foot long, and 86 broad, where are to be seen the Twelve Celestial Signs and great number of other very Beautiful Paintings. Every Night at a certain hour they make the Great Clock strike 32 times, in memory of so many Traytors who would have deliver'd up the City into the Ene∣mies hands. Padua still retains several Footsteps of Antiquity, as the Remains of an Amphithea∣ter, call'd the Arenae, near the Austin Fryars Church.

And the Ruines of such another are also to be seen at Veronas another City under the Dominion of the Venetians; but there is much more of the Structure standing, which is said to have been erected by order of the Consul Flaminius, 380 Foot in length, and 200 broad. There is also a Circus where above Fourscore Thousand People may sit upon Seats of Marble.

CHAP. VIII. Of the Republicks of Luca and St. Marino.

LƲCA is a small Republican State almost en∣clos'd within the Territories of Tuscany, ha∣ving preserv'd its Freedom ever since the Year 1430, under the Protection of the Emperour. This Republick is govern'd by a Gonfaloniere, who is Elected every two Months out of the No∣bility, and has for his Assistants nine Ancients, who bear the Title of Excellentissimo's. How∣ever they can determine nothing that is not ap∣prov'd in the Grand Conncil, compos'd of 120 Burgesses. Though the Extent of the Territo∣ries belonging to this Republick be very small, yet they are very well Peopl'd; so that they can easily bring 20000 Men into the Field to defend themselves, besides that their Revenue amounts to above 500000 Livres a Year. Their Arsenals are always provided with all things necessary to hold out a long Siege. The Gonfaloniere, who during his Regency lodges in the Palace of the Signiory, and has a hundred Soldiers for his Guard, is clad in a Robe of Crimson Velvet or Damask, with a Bonnet of the same Stuff. Nor are there but few States wherein the Civil Go∣vernment is better Regulated then in this Repub∣lick.

The City of Luca, the Metropolis of the Ter∣ritory is seated upon the River Serchio, defended by eleven Bastions lin'd with Brick, and as re∣gular as can be imagin'd. Nor is it less conside∣rable for the Antiquity of it, then the Fortifica∣tions that secure it, Several Silk Stuffs are made in this City, wherein the Inhabitants drive a very great Trade, which has acquir'd to the City the Epithite of Luca the Industrious.

The Churches are very beautiful, especially the Cathedral Consecrated to St. Martin, where they shew a Picture, upon which they would make ye believe that the Angels painted our Sa∣viour's Face. It is Crown'd with a Crown of Gold, having over it the two Letters Alpha and Omega; that is to say, the Beginning and the End; or he that is, was and shall be. In the Austin-Fryars Church they shew ye a kind of an Abyss, which as they say, open'd to swallow up a Gamester that Blasphem'd the Name of his Creator.

The Territories of the Republick of St. Marino are of a smaller extent then those belonging to Luca, because they include only the City of Sancto Marino, and some few Castles that serve to defend it, the whole containing not above six Thousand Inhabitants. It settl'd it self in the Year of Christ 600, and has all along supported it self under the Protection of the Pope, being almost enclos'd within the Territories of the Church. It is govern'd by two Captains that are new chosen every year. She still preserves her Gravity, e∣specially in respect of other Republicks; so that

when she writes to the Republick of Venice, she calls her Dear Sister.

The City of Sancto Marino is very strong, not only by reason of the situation of it, which is up∣on the top of a Mountain in the Dutchy of Ʋr∣bin, but also because of the Fortifications, which are very regular, and certain Castles that defend it. The Name of it was deriv'd from one Sancto Marino, a Stone-Cutter, born in Dalmatia; who coming into Italy in the Third Age, and being addicted to Piety, preach'd the Gospel to the Pagans, and Converted several to the Faith. He Dy'd in a kind of Hermitage where he had his Oratory upon the top of the Mountain where now the City of Sancto Marino stands.

CHAP. IX. Of TUSCANY.

THE State of Tuscany Is purely Monarchical and Despotick. It is compos'd of three Estates, which were formerly as many Repub∣licks; the Florentin, Pisan and Sienese, which derive their Names from their Capital City, where the Grand Duke has built good Citadels. This is one of the most considerable States of Italy, and wants nothing but the Title of a King∣dom, which a Pope of that Family had a design once to have conferr'd upon it. In the mean time

according to the Italian Proverb, the Grand Duke wants nothing but Luca and Sarzana to be King of Tuscany.

This Prince is one of the Richest in Italy: his ordinary Revenue amounts to two Millions and a half of Crowns, and 'tis said that he has above Five and Twenty Millions of Gold in his Trea∣sury, besides his Moveables and Jewels which are of an Inestimable value. He is able to bring into the Field 30000 Foot, and 3000 Horse; and as to his strength by Sea, in a case of neces∣sity he can set out Twenty Men of War, a Do∣zen Galleys, and some Galeasses.

As to the Money, Spanish Pistoles, Piasters and Reals of Peru go currant all over the Duke∣dom, provided they be weight. The Money which the Grand Duke Coyns are Pistoles, Du∣catoons, Julio's and Gratie. The Pistole of Spain goes for Forty two Livres of the Country; but the Tuscan Pistole goes but for Forty. A Duca∣toon is worth seven Livres. A Julio is worth eight Gratie, which is a small piece of Money, part Copper, part Silver. A Livre is worth a Julio and a half, and every Gratia is worth Ele∣ven Deneers of France; so that the Tuscan Livre is not worth above Eleven French Sols.

Florence is the Metropolis of the Dukedom, with an Archbishobprick Erected in the Year 1421. by Pope Martin V. Surnam'd the Fair, because that without all contradiction it surpas∣ses in Beauty and Magnificence all the Cities round about it; to which the situation of it con∣tributes not a little, being built upon the River Arno, which divides it into two unequal parts,

joyn'd together by Four Stone Bridges; and it is about Six Miles in circuit, with very neat Streets and well kept. Some Authors will have Sylla's Soldiers to be the Founders of Florence, to whom he gave the Land as a Reward of their Services: That it was at first call'd Fluentia, by reason of the Confluence of the Rivers Arno and the Main, but that the Fertility of the Soil gave it after∣wards the Name of Florentia.

The ordinary Residence of the Grand Signior's Court contributes not a little to the Magnificence of it. For assuredly the Grand Duke's Palace deserves to be the Mansion of an Emperour. It is adorn'd with Statues of Marble and Brass much more noble then are to be found in any other place. The Painting, Sculpture and Guild∣ing appear to be the Effects of Profusion. And therefore not to engage in an exact description of this Palace, I shall only take notice of some Pie∣ces the most Magnificent.

There is to be seen a Candlestick or Luster all of Amber; a Domo of Mother of Pearl, and Gold Enamell'd with red; a Table where you see the City and Harbour of Leghorn, repre∣sented by several Stones of Jasper, Marble, La∣pis Lazuli, Topazes and Emraulds most artifici∣ally enchas'd; another Table of Calcedon Ena∣mell'd with Flowers, Empal'd with Agates, Lapis Lazuli, and Emraulds, supported with Enamel'd Pillars: a Cabinet of Jet Inlay'd with several Gold Plates, with Seven Doors where as many Organs play; and withinside the Passion of our Saviour figur'd in Marble: A Loadstone that sustains about Sixty pound weight of Iron, but

it has lost much of the Vertue of it since the last Fire that happen'd in the Palace. A Nail half Iron half Gold, which was thought to be an ef∣fect of Chimical Operation, but some years since it was found out that the two Metals were only soder'd together, but so imperceptibly, that it was not possible to be discern'd: An Agate Table, a Statue of Lewis XIII. on Horseback of Massie Gold; an entire Service of Massie Gold Plate; and a prodigious quantity of Silver Ena∣mel'd Plate. In short all the Apartments of the Palace, and the Equipage of the Grand Duke are proportionable to this Immense Treasure.

Nor are these the only Rarities which this Pa∣lace encloses, the only Objects worthy a Tra∣vellers Curiosity. The Gallery wherein are the Portraitures of the Family of the Medicis, and of all the Famous Men of this Age, as well for Learning as for Arms, delightfully allures a Travellers Eye for some Hours, The Great Captains are plac'd upon the Right Hand, among whom is Hannibal the Terrour of Rome; Scipio who took Carthage and vanquish'd Hannibal: Pyrrhus who rejoyc'd Rome by declaring War a∣gainst it: Scanderbeg the Scourge of the Turks. Alexander Farneze, who never lost a Battel. Cor∣tesius, who discover'd the Streight of Magellan. Andrew Doria, who recover'd Genoa from the French. Gaston de Foix, whose Memory is still Terrible to the Spaniard. Duke d' Alva, who though Bloody and Cruel perform'd many great Exploits, and who lamented at his Death not the Mischiefs he had committed, but that he had ne∣ver fought against the Turks. Custruccio, of

whom no Body ever spoke ill. Eccellino, of whom no body ever spoke any thing that was good; and Madam de Momorancy, who was well con∣tented to die in a Battel against the Religionaries of France.

In an Armory adjoyning are to be seen several curious Arms: A Harquebuse, the Barrel of which is Gold, and which carries much farther then a Barrel of Iron: A Pistol which is call'd the Good Night, that discharges five times with once pulling the Trigger. Also another with Ten Barrels, that discharges as many times at once.

In one of the Cabinets stands a Mirrour, into which if a Man looks, he seems to be a Woman; and if a Woman looks into it, she seems to be a Man. I forgot to tell ye, that among the Grand Duke's Jewels, there is a Diamond as thick as a Man's Finger, that weighs a Hundred thirty eight Carrats, and is lookt upon to be one of the fairest in Europe, being valued at 150000 Crowns.

The Church of St. Mary of the Flowre, is the Cathedral of Florence. It is lin'd without-side with great square Panes of Marble, White, Red and Black intermix'd. The Inside is answerable to the Outside, and the Steeple is of Marble though of a prodigious heigth.

St. Laurence's also is a very Beautiful Church; but that which renders it more remarkable, is the Chappel wherein the Dukes of Florence lie Buried. This Chappel is built all of Marble, lin'd with Jasper, Alablaster, and other rare Stones, so well polish'd and wrought, that the Workman∣ship

is more esteem'd then the Materials. The Vault is lin'd with Lapis Lazuli of Persia, which is a Pretious Stone of a Blue Colour interlac'd with Veins of Gold, and which perfectly resem∣bles the Colour of the Skie in a clear and serene Season. Round about this Chappel are plac'd the Statues of all the Dukes of Florence, all of Copper guilded in their Ducal Habits; and be∣tween two Tombs one of the Cities of the State of Florence, which takes up the whole void space. In a word the Magnificence of that Mausoleum is so great that 'tis enough to make those who are wrapt up with the Pride and Vanity of this World wish for Death, if they might be assur'd of such Glorious Monuments after their Decease.

Having thus view'd the Magnificence of the Palace and Mausoleums of the Great Duke, we come to the Curiosities of the City; where there are to be seen upon the Bridge that leads to the Grand Piazza, four Statues of White Marble representing the four Seasons; and in the Piazza stands a Brass Statue upon a Pedestal of the same Metal, representing Como de Medicis, the first Duke of Florence, together with his most re∣markable Exploits, in Relief. This Piazza lies before the old Palace, on both sides of which are to be seen the Statues of David and Hercules. To this Palace belongs a Tower which is a Hun∣dred and Fifty Fathom high, without any other Foundations then those of the Palace it self, which gave an occasion to the saying of the Flo∣rentines, that they have one Tower in the Air, another in the Water, meaning the Pharo of Li∣vorn, and another in the Earth, which is the

Steeple of Florence. Near the River is to be seen a large Column, upon which is plac'd the Statue of Justice in Porphyrie; upon which the Criticks have made two Burlesque Remarks; the one is that Justice is plac'd so high, that the poor can∣not reach it; the other is, that she turns her Back to those places where Justice is usually ad∣minister'd.

It would be a great oversight not to visit the Houses of pleasure belonging to the Grand Duke, of which the most considerable are Poggio Impe∣riale, Pratolino, aad Lampeggio; where the Ar∣bours, the Alleys, the Labyrinths, Grotto's, Wa∣terworks, and whatever can make any place de∣lightful, are in their highest perfection. Stran∣gers are often trickt near Cupid's Grotto in the Garden of Pratolino. For before they come at it, they are led a great way about; so that com∣ing to the Seats that are not far off, they are willing to sit down and rest themselves: But no sooner are they sate down, but the pillars of the Seat giving way to the weight of their Bodies, out flies the Water all of a sndden, and washes 'em from Head to Foot.

Siena, with an Archbishoprick and a Univer∣sity, was formerly much more considerable then now it is, as having once contain'd above seventy five thousand Inhabitants, whereas now there are not above Four and twenty Thousand in the Ci∣ty. The Streets are broad and all pav'd with Brick. Formerly the Sienois, who had a great many Children were exempted from all manner of Impositions, in regard they had supply'd the Republick with several Members; and they

who had no Children bare the Burthen of the Taxes.

The Cathedral is pav'd with spotted Marble, upon which is engrav'd the Sacrifice of Abraham, and several other Histories of the Old Testa∣ment. The Roof is all of Azure, spangl'd with Stars of Gold: There are also to be seen the Marble Statues of several Popes and Emperors, together with Twelve Angels of Brass, every one holding a Wax Taper in their hands. The Piazza of Siena is round, and the Houses built exactly according to the Rules of Symmetry, supported by Arches like those in the Royal Piazza in Paris, where you may walk Winter and Summer without being annoy'd either by Rain, or Sunshine. The middle of the Piazza is hol∣lowed like a Scallop Shell, and may be fill'd with Water from a Fountain adjoyning, for the Lanching of several Shallops into it, wherewith to imitate a Naval Engagement. And near to the Roman Gate, upon two high Pillars, stands a Wolf giving suck to Rhemus and Romulus.

But is Siena has lost her ancient Splendour, Pisa▪ is no less unfortunate. For she was once the most potent City of all Tuscany; as having been Mistress of the Islands of Corse and Sardigna, as also of the City of Carthage, at what time above 50 Gallies might have been seen in her Har∣bour all belonging to her; but now she is no longer remarkable for any thing else but her Archbishopprick, her University, and the House of the Knights of St. Stephen; where several who prefer Celibacy before a Marry'd Life, are maintain'd at the Charges of the Order. They

wear a Cross of Red Sattin upon their Habits; and in St. Stephen's Church are to be seen several Flags, Ship-Lanthorns and Colours taken from the Turks by those Knights.

The Steeple of the Domo is admir'd for the height of it, because it seems to lean on one side, though in the judgment of skilful Workmen, it stands as upright as it is possible. This Church is supported by Seventy six Columns of Marble of all Colours, and has three Gates of Brass▪ which they say belong'd to the Temple of Salomon. The Great Piazza is call'd Campo Santo, by reason it was fill'd up with a vast quantity of earth which the Galleys brought from Jerusalem, in 1224.

Livorno or Ligorno. is a Sea-port Town with∣in the Territories of Tuscany, of which the Ha∣ven is accounted one of the safest and most con∣venient on that side, Now in regard the City is but new built, the Streets are large and streight, and the Houses very convenient, Here it is that the Duke's Galleys and Men of War lie. The Pharos, or Tower of Livorn is lookt upon to be one of the most beautiful, and most necessary in all Italy. One of the most Remarkable. Things in this City is the Marble Statue of Ferdinand. I. having under his Feet four Slaves of Brass, in al∣lusion to the four Turkish Slaves who seiz'd one Night upon a Galley, with a design to have made their Escapes into Barbary, but were taken in the Act. Some say 'twas the Father and his Three Sons who came on purpose from Turkey by the Sultan's Order, to have Massaker'd the Grand Duke; but that their Design being discover'd,

they were taken and punish'd according to their Deserts.

CHAP. X. Of the Ecclesiastical State.

THIS State is called the Ecclesiastical State, because the Pope is both the Spiritual and Temporal Sovereign of it. It is compos'd of Twelve Provinces; La Campagna di Roma, St. Peter's Patrimony, La Terra Sabina, Ombria, or the Dutchy of Spoleto, Orvietano, Perugia, the Earldom of the City of Castello, La Marca d' Ancona, the Dukedom of Ʋrbin, La Romagna, the Territories of Bologna and Ferrara. This State is bounded to the North by the Republick of Venice; to the South by the Dukedomes of Mantua and Modena; to the West by the Grand Dukedome of Tuscany; and to the East by the Kingdom of Naples.

The Pope is able to bring into the Field an Army of 50000 Foot and 10000 Horse, and ought to have Twelve Galleys for the security of his Coasts. The Revenues of the Holy See, a∣mount to about Two Millions of God. But the Popes have a blessed and easie way to augment it when they please; and therefore Sixtus IV. had good reason to say, that he could never want Money so long as he had a Hand and a

Pen. This easie way of filling the Apostolick Treasuries with Money, has been the cause several Popes not having Children of their own to en∣rich, as Paul III. had, have solely apply'd them∣selves to raise the Fortunes of their Nephews. Paul V. left the Prince of Salmone, his Nephew, a Revenue of a Thousand Crowns a Day. And others have done well for Theirs, proportionably to the Times that they enjoy'd the Papal Chair; and by this means it was that the Number of Petty Princes multiply'd so greatly in Italy.

Besides the Spanish Pistoles, Piasters, Sequins, and some other Foreign Pieces that are currant in the Ecclesiastical State, the Pope Coyns several sorts of Money, viz. Pistoles, Piasters, Testons, Giulios, Gros, half Baioques, and Quatrini. The Popes Pistole goes at 30 Giulio's, and the Spanish at 31: Three Giulio's make a Teston; the Giu∣lio is worth 5 Baioques, and one Baioque worth 5 Quatrini. One Baioque is worth 8 Deneers of France, the Giulio 3 Sols 4 Deneers; so that by that accompt the Ecclesiastical Pistole is not worth above 100 Sols, Money of France.

Now in regard I intend a particular Chapter for the City of Rome, I shall in this Chapter men∣tion only the other principal Cities of the Eccle∣siastical State, and begin with Bologna, call'd, The Fat, because of the Excellency and Fertility of the Soil. It is so delightfully built, that in the most part of the Streets you walk under Por∣tico's secur'd from Rain and Sun: It is not a∣bove 5 Miles in Circuit; but if the Air were not so unwholsome, it would be one of the most pleasant Abodes in Italy. Though it be under

the Jurisdiction of the Holy See, yet is it lookt upon at Rome, rather as a Sister then a Subject; in regard that by voluntarily surrendring her self to the Church, she has preserv'd to her self the freedom of sending Ambassadors to Rome, from whence she has Coadjurors; which is a kind of Bridle to curb the Power and Pride of the Le∣gates.

The Bolognese's also have this farther considera∣ble Priviledge, that if one Citizen kills another, and that he can make his Escape, his Goods can∣not be Confiscated. There is also a Tower at Bologna, which by reason of the height of it, seems to lean on one side, like that of Pisa; which some assert to be an effect of Art; others that it was occasion'd by an Earthquake. In the Treasury of the Dominicans Church is to be seen a Manuscript Bible in Parchment, which as they say was written by Esdras with his own Hand. They who have a mind to visit the Churches of Bologna, will see the Body of Katherine de Vigri, a Nun of the Order of Santa Clara, who though she Dy'd in 1463, looks still as fresh as if she were but newly Dead. But that which is more won∣derful is this, that every Month they pair her Nails, and cut her Hair once a Year before a great Number of Credible Persons; nevertheless both the Hair and the Nails still grow as if she were Alive.

There are an infinite number of Country Seats in the parts adjacent to Bologna, but that of the Senator Volta surpasses all the rest in Magnifi∣cence. There is an Inscription there to be seen, which has puzzl'd the most Learned Wits of se∣veral

Nations, For my part, I cannot aspire to that Excellency; and therefore I shall only men∣tion here the Interpretations of others. This E∣nigmatick Inscription is in Latin, and 'tis said to have been made by a person that was neither Man nor Woman, nor Hermaphrodite; that she Dy'd neither of Hunger, nor Thirst, nor by the Sword, nor by Poyson, yet by all together; That she was neither in the Water, nor in the Air, nor in the Earth, but in all at once; and that this Inscription was made by Lycus Agatho Priscus, who was neither her Husband, nor her Gallant, nor her Kinsman, but all three at one time. Many People have thought they could expound this Riddle; Some saying that it was Rain Water; Another Materia Prima; Another Chymical Mercury; And a Fourth ascrib'd it to Love.

Since my Remarques have not led me out of Bologna, I cannot leave it without observing, that there is frequently seen in the Parts adjoyn∣ing to the City, a certain Meteor, toward the Appennine Mountain, when the weather is ob∣scure and dark, which is a Light almost as round as a Globe, by the Country People, call'd Bocca d'Inferno, the Mouth of Hell, because it has so fall'n out, that Traveliers, having lost their way in the Night, and following this Light at a distance, have been led into Precipices.

Ancona the Metropolis of Marca d'Ancona, is one of the strongest places in the Ecclesiastical State, where the Magazines are always abun∣dantly Stor'd with all things necessary for the defence of it. The Harbor was formerly in

great request, insomuch that it was a Proverb, Porto d'Ancona, Torre di Cremona, e Petro di Roma; The Port of Ancona; The Tower of Cremona; And Peter of Rome. The Port was formerly lin'd with Marble, and the Ships were Moor'd to Pillars of Marble, set up all along the Haven at a certain distance one from the other. But Time and the Wars have ruin'd the greatest part, and the Trade is gone off to other places. However, it still preserves a very fair Triumphal Arch, which the Romans erected in Honor of the Emperor Trajan.

Loretto is another City of Marca d'Ancona, Built upon a Hill, and well Fortify'd. This Ci∣ty has been Famous for some Ages, as being the Repository of the Chamber where the Holy Vir∣gin conceiv'd the Divine Word. This Chamber is about Four Fathom long, Two Broad, and as many in heighth. It is built of a Stone inclining to a Red colour, resembling Brick, but much bigger and harder. There is also a little Chim∣ney against one of the Walls on the Right side, with an old Cupboard, where they still preserve some Earthen Platters and Dishes, which being found there when the Building was remov'd, make People believe that it was the Plate where∣in the Holy Virgin was serv'd. Some years since they made a Silver Door to the Cupboard; and at the end of the Chamber is a Window, through whch the Angel enter'd when he brought her the Mysterious Tidings of the Incarnation. There is also the Portraicture of our Saviour, and of the Happy Virgin, which they would have the World believe was Drawn by St. Luke.

This Chamber is now inclos'd within a Chap∣pel of the Church of Loretio, consecrated to the Holy Virgin; and by the help of a Candle you may perceive that this Chamber stands upon no Foundation. There is a World of Riches in that Church, which has often tempted the Py∣rates of Barbary to try whither they could be so fortunate as carry it away, but without any suc∣cess. Among the rest of the Wealth, for it would be too tedious to give an Inventory of it all, there is to be seen two Crowns and a Dolphin of Massy Gold, which Ann of Austria Queen of France, gave that Church upon the Birth of Lewis XIV. an infinite number of Crowns, Lamps, Gold and Silver Candlesticks set with precious Stones. In the Treasury of the Church are to be seen several sumptuous Altar-Services; and among others, one made of Chry∣stal; Candlesticks, Crevets, a Bason and Eure, and the Foot of a Chalice, all of Amber. An∣other Service of Agate, another of Chrystal of the Rock; another of Engrav'd or Carv'd Sil∣ver. I forbear to mention any more, that I may have room to say something of the miraculous removal of this Chamber.

The Story is Engrav'd upon the Pillars of the Great Church in Thirteen sorts of Languages, for the Information of Pilgrims; by which they are given to understand, That the Turks having begun to invade the Holy Land, GOD, unwil∣ling that the Place where his Son receiv'd his Incarnation, should be polluted by the Infidels, ordered the Angels to take this poor Domicil, and carry it the 9th of May 1291. from Naza∣reth

in Galilee, where then it was, into Dalmatia, or as others say, into Slavonia: That Three or Four years after it was remov'd by those Blessed Spirits into the Diocess of Reconati in Marca d'Ancona, upon the Lands belonging to a Pious Lady, whose Name was Loretta; but that the little House being seated in a Wood, where of∣ten Robbers set upon the Pilgrims, it was after∣wards remov'd halfe a League from thence up∣on a Hill, and then a little further to the Place where this Magnificent and Wealthy Church stands, and wherein this Chamber is now in∣clos'd, Before the Great Church stands a very fair Brass Statue of Sixtus V. one of its Bene∣factors. Several Strangers visit the Apartments of the Chapter-House, which are very Superb, and sufficient to Lodge the Courts of several Princes at a time. The Cellars are always re∣plenished with excellent Wine, not only for the Provision of the Governor, the Canons, and all the Ecclesiasticks, but also for the Entertain∣ment of the Princes, Cardinals, Bishops, Ambas∣sadors, and generally all the Pilgrims that re∣sort thither, of which there are an infinite num∣ber. The Storehouse for Drugs and Medicines where the Pilgrims are supply'd with Physick gratis, is worth a Travsller's Observation. A¦mong other things there are in that Infirmatory, Four Earthen Pots, upon which, Raphael Ʋrbin Painted the Four Evangelists, for which the King of France's Ambassador offer'd in exchange, in his Master's Name, Four Vessels of Gold of the same bigness and thickness, but could not ob∣tain his Request, which caus'd a Saying, That

Raphael's Fingers had a greater Virtue in 'em than Midas's, to change all things into Gold which they touch'd.

Ferrara, the Capital City of that Province, seated upon one of the Arms of the Po, has ap∣pertain'd to the Holy See, ever since the year 1597. at what time Alphonso II. Duke of Ferrara, of the House of D' Este, dying without Issue, the Apostolick Chamber seiz'd it into her hands, pretending it to be devolv'd to her; which could not be done without Revolutions, that did not a little contribute to the Ruine of the Inha∣bitants. This City bears the Title of a Dutchy, and is Adorn'd with a Bishoprick: the Streets are also Fair, and the Palaces Magnificent. The Cathedral is the most Ancient in Italy. Pope Clement VIII. caus'd a Citadel to be built, con∣sisting of Six Bastions, which cost him above Two Millions of Gold, and set up his Statue in the middle of the Piazza. Near the Gate of the new Piazza stand Two Brass Statues of the Two Princes of the House of d'Este, the one a Horse∣back the other Sitting. Strangers must take no∣tice, that before they can Lodge in the Inns of Ferrara, they must have a Ticket from the Town-House.

Civita Vecchia is one of the best Sea-Port Towns in the Ecclesiastical State, where the Pope's Gallies generally ride. But it now be∣gins to grow more considerable then ever, in re∣gard the present Pope has Declar'd it a Free Port, and Granted Franchises and Priviledges, not only to Christians, but also to the Jews that will settle there.

In the Province of Ʋmbria, near a place call'd Terni, there is a wonderful sort of Earth, which in a time of Drowth, turns into Mudd, and in Rainy weather turns into Dust. In the same Province is to be seen the Lake call'd Pie di Luco, of which, the Water, as they say, in a little time petrifies pieces of Wood that are thrown into it. The Lake of Norcia, of Norcera is no less remarkable, in the vulgar Opinion, who be∣lieve that the Devil walks there, and that the Magicians and Witches keep their Rendezvous upon the Banks of it. Nor is it less certain that the Inhabitants of the neighbouring Villages are often upon their Guards to interrupt those sorts of Meeting. The Sybils Cave is in that Quarter, the Subterraneal Concavity of which leads, as they report, into a very far Kingdom, where the Men and Women sport all Day, and are turn'd into Serpents in the Night.

Visiting the parts about Rome, you come to see Nariri an Episcopal City, anciently call'd The Wicked City, for that the Inhabitants finding themselves constrain'd to Surrender, resolv'd ra∣ther all of 'em to Die, and kill one another, then to be Spectators of their Enemies Victory. They began with cutting their Children's, their Sister's and their Mother's Throats, soon after they did the same to their Wives, and then set∣ting Fire to the Four corners of the City, fell a Massakring one another, till not one was left alive.

Before I conclude this Chapter, I must inform the Reader, that near Tivoli, an Episcopal Ci∣ty of La Campagna di Roma, there is a very deep

Lake, in which there are several floating Islands, which when the Wind blows, are driven to the sides of the Lake, by the motion of the Water. This Lake is about 500 paces in length, and in regard the Water is very Sulphury, 'tis thought that the boiling of the Water forces up the Mudd to the surface of the Lake, which sticking to the Reeds and other Herbage, forms those Islands, that in time grow bigger and bigger.

CHAP. XII. Of the City of Rome, and the Curiosities there∣in contain'd.

ROME, formerly the Metropolis of a Fa∣mous Empire, and now the Chief City of Christendom, is-without contradiction the most Fa∣mous City of the Ʋniverse. Her Fame is spread abroad to all the most distant parts of the World, where she has manifestly made appear the puissance of her Arms, and the Prowess of her Governors. Men may easily judge of the Strength and Power of the Ancient Romans, when they find that their Armies consisted of be∣tween Two hundred and fifty and Three hun∣dred thousand Men; when they had about 1500 Gallies, and an infinite number of other Ves∣sels: And Lastly, That the bounds of their Empire were Euphrates, Mount Taurus, and Arme∣nia Eastward; Aethiopia Southward; the Danaw to the North; and the Ocean to the West. She

has now acquir'd the Epithite of Holy, not only because she has been Dy'd with the Blood of an infinite number of Martyrs, but because She is now the usual Residence of the Popes, accounted the visible Heads of the Roman Apostolical Church.

This Famous City was Founded in the Year of the World 3301. by Remus and Romulus, who were the Grand-children by Rhea Sylvia their Mother (for their Father is not known) of Numitor King of Albania: which has giv'n an occasion to the Historians, to publish 'em to po∣sterity for the Sons of Mars, because their Mo∣ther was found to be big with Child, thô She were in the number of the Vestal Virgins. These Two Founders could not agree about the Name, which they should give their City: For some Authors will have it, that at first it was call'd Valencia; but the Disputes between the Two Brothers being reconcil'd, or rather determin'd in favour of Romulus, he gave it the Name of Rome, and was the First of the Seven Kings that Govern'd it. After which, she had Con∣suls till Julius Caesar, who was the First Emperor of Rome.

Thô this City has been Sackt and Burnt an infinite number of times, as well by Foreigners as by her own Citizens, yet has she been so for∣tunate, as still to preserve some Lovely Remains of her Antiquity and Magnificence. However, She is neither so potent, nor so spacious as for∣merly She was; since History assutes us, That once She was above Thirty Miles in compass, whereas now She incloses no more then 23050

common Paces, and 360 Towres within the Cir∣cuit of her Walls and Suburbs. She had for∣merly thirty Gates, which occasion'd as many High Roads that lead to 'em, which are still pav'd with great Stones, and in many places a∣dorn'd with Marble Pillars set up at every Miles end. And it was in those High-ways, all along, that they Enterr'd their Dead; there being a Law which forbids Burials in the City. Now there are not above Nineteen Gates; of which we shall give you both the Ancient and Modern Names.

1. La Porta del Popolo, formerly Flaminia

2. Sancta Merodia's Gate, formerly Gabiosa.

3. La Porta Piciana, formerly Colatina.

4. The Latin Gate, formerly Terentia.

5. La Porta Agonia, formerly Quirinalis.

6. St. Sebastian's Gate, formerly Capena.

7. St. Agnes's Gate formerly Viminalis.

8. St. Paul's, or Ostia-Gate, formerly Trige∣mina.

9. La Porta Ripa, formerly Portuensis.

10. St. Laurence's Gate, formerly Esquilina.

11. St. Pancrace's Gate, formerly Aurelia and Septima.

12. The Porta Maggiore, formerly Nevia.

13. La Porta Septimiana, formerly Fontinalis.

14. St. John's Gate, or Coeliomontana.

15. The Vatican Gate near Tiber.

16. La Porta Fabricia.

17. La Porta Pertusa.

18. La Porta Angelica.

19. The Castle Gate.

Rome is Peopl'd with about 300000 Christi∣ans, and about 8 or 10000 Jews, who are obli∣ged every Saturday to hear a Fryar Preach upon their Incredulity. The whole Circuit of Rome encloses seven Hills; but generally they never reckon above seven which are the biggest.

1. Monte Capitolino, where formerly stood the Temples of above Sixty Deities.

2. Monte Palatino, formerly the Mansion of the Ancient Kings, where still are to be seen a great number of Subterraneal Vaults, and the Garden Farnaise, one of the most Lovely Gar∣dens for Pleasure in Italy.

3. Monte Aventino, where now stands Santa Sabina.

4. Monte Celio, which extends from St. Grego∣ries to St. John de Laterano.

5. Monte Esquelino, so call'd from the Watch that stood there.

6. Monte Vioninale, so call'd from the Oziers with which it was formerly overgrown. And

7. Monte Quirinale, now Monte Cavallo, ever since the setting up in that place of the two Mar∣ble Bucephalus's which Tiridates King of Arme∣nia presented to Nero. The Popes also have built upon it a Magnificent Palace for their Summer Habitation.

They reck'n fourscore Parishes in Rome, and a∣bove Three hundred Churches: Of which the Seven principal, whither the People repair to obtain Indulgences, are St. Peter's in Vaticano, St. Paul's without the City, St. Maria Maggiore, St. Sebastians, St. John di Laterano, of the Holy Cross of Jerusalem, and St. Laurences. But in

extream hot Weather they go to Sancta Maria del Popola, instead of St. Sebastians.

There are two sorts of Government in Rome; that of the City, and that of the Church; and both the one and the other is in the hands of some Ecclesiastick upon whom the Pope confers it. The first has under him a Captain of a Hunderd Men, to be ready upon all occasions to execute the Orders of the Civil Government. This Cap∣tain is call'd Bargello, and his Soldiers Sbirri.

It may be said that there is no City in the World wherein the Civil Government is better settl'd then at Rome. All sorts of Provisions are rated in the Markets, in the Shops and in the Inns, where no body can sell any thing but ac∣cording to the Rate set. There are Bills set up in all Inns containing the Price of Bread, Wine and Meat, &c. and-for the Information of Stran∣gers, and to the end that the Inn-keepers may not deceive those who are ignorant of the Lan∣guage, or who cannot read, the Sbirri many times stop Strangers in the Streets, to know of 'em where they Lodge, and what they pay a Meal, to the end that they who offend against the Orders of the Civil Government may be soundly fin'd; and the better to take the Inn-keepers napping, many times the Sbirri go and Lodge in the Inns, in the Disguise of Forreign∣ers, especially where they have any suspicion.

As to the Ecclesiastical Government, it resides in the Person of the Pope, or the Cardinal Pa∣tron under the Character of his Vicar General. When there is any thing to be regulated, the Pope calls a Congregation, where not only the

Cardinals are present, but the Bishops and Do∣ctors; and if any Important Affairs of the Church are in Agitation, they are propos'd in a Consi∣story, which the Pope usually holds every 15 Days, where all the Cardinals that are in Rome must be present.

None but the Cardinals, whose Assembly is call'd the Sacred Colledge, have any Right in the Election of the New Pope. This Name of Cardinal was formerly given to all the Curates of Parishes in Rome. Nor was it till after the Fa∣mous Council held at Rome, in the Pontificare of Nicholas II. in 1053. that the Cardinals assum'd to themselves the only Right of choosing the So∣veraign Pontiff. Their number is fix'd to Se∣venty, viz. Fifty Priest Cardinals, Fourteen Deacon Cardinals, and Six Bishop Cardinals, which are the Bishops of Porto, Ostia, Sabina, Palestrina, Frescari, and Albano. For these Bi∣shopprick Suffragans to the Pope, as their Me∣tropolitain are always enjoy'd by a Cardinal.

At the Council of Lion held in 1243. Pope In∣nocent IV. gave the Red Cap to the Cardinals. Paul II. in 1464. allow'd 'em Red Habits; Gre∣gory XIV. gave a Red Bonnet to the Regular Car∣dinals, who before that time wore only a Hat, and Ʋrban VIII. allow'd 'em the Title of Eminency, till then addrest to by no other Title than that of Illustrissimo.

At the Time of the Promotion of Cardinals, the Pope being then in the Consistory, tells the Cardinals that are present, You have for your Bre∣thren, N. N. and then he causes the List of their Names and Qualities to be read. Which done

the Cardinal Patron sends for those who are at Rome, and carries 'em to the Pope to receive the Red Bonnet at his Hands I and in the next first Consistory, His Holiness gives 'em the Hat, and this Ceremony is call'd the Opening and Shuting the Mouths of the New Cardinals. As for those that are absent, the Pope dispatches away an Ex∣press to carry 'em the Bonnet; but they are ob∣lig'd to go to Rome, to receive the Hat from His Holinesses Hands. The Cardinals Habits, are a Cassock, a Rochet, a Mantelet, the Mozette, and the Papal Cope upon Solemn Days. The Colour of their Habit varies according to the Sea∣son, sometimes Light Crimson, sometimes Violet, sometimes Murrey, or a very dark Crimson, The Cardinals are in great Reputa∣tion at Rome, and have great Priviledges: Among which one of the most considerable is, that if a Cardinal chances to pass through any place where any Criminal is led to Punishment, the Cardinals presence gives a full Pardon for his Crime.

The place where the Cardinals meet in order to the Election of a new Pope when the See is vacant, is call'd the Conclave. This Conclave is not fix'd to any place, but is in the power of the Cardinals to make choice of any place which they shall deem convenient. However in regard the Vatican is the most commodious for many Reasons, this Assembly has been held there for a long time; so that the Deliberation of the Car∣dinals about the Choice of a place for the Con∣clave is no more then a bare Formality.

There are so many Cells as there are Cardi∣nals, erected in a spacious Apartment of the Palace; which Cells are made of Deal-Boards, every Cardinals Conclavist having his Partition also, who is a Person shut up with the Cardinal to wait upon him. When the Cells are ready, they are drawn by Lot, and every Cardinal fur∣nishes his own, and sets up his Arms over the Door. The Cells are finish'd in Nine Days, by which time the Pope's Funeral Obsequies being over, upon the Tenth, the Cardinals that are at Rome, enter the Conclave; and without staying for the Arriual of the Absent Cardinals, labour Morning and Evening in the Election of the Pope. When the absent Cardinals arrive at Rome, they spend some Days in Visits, and reposing them∣selves, and then they enter the Conclave also.

So soon as the Pope is Dead, the Publick is inform'd of it by the ringing of a Bell that hangs in the Capitol, and which is never towl'd upon any other occasion. At the same time Courriers are dispatch'd to all the Sovereign Princes of Europe that profess the Roman Catholick Religion, to inform 'em of the Pope's Death, The Car∣dinal Chamberlain removes to the Palace, and takes possession of the Fishermans Ring, which was the Deceased Pope's Signet, and breaks it to pieces, because all Dispatches of Bulls cease during the Vacancy of the See. Afterwards he gives out all necessary Orders for the Pope's Fu∣neral, whose Body is Embaulm'd and carry'd into a Chappel of St. Peter's Church, and expos'd upon a Bed of State, for the People to come and kiss his Feet through a Grate. The Funeral

Obsequies last Nine Days, and the Ceremony is perform'd by the Sacred Colledge. During the Vacancies of the Holy See, the Three Chiefs of the Orders of the Colledge, viz. the Dean of the Cardinal Bishops, the first Cardinal Priest, and the first Cardinal Deacon, have in their hands the whole Government of the City and Ecclesiastical State, and before they shut them∣selves up in the Conclave, they issue forth all necessary Orders for the Publick Security as well in Rome as in all the Cities of the State.

I shall not enter into a particular description of the manner of Electing Popes since Linus's time, who was the first that succeeded St. Peter till this present time, as well for that it would carry me too far, as for that the Ecclesiastical History has amply satisfy'd that piece of Curiosity. 'Tis ob∣servable in that History, that the People and the Clergy joyntly, and sometimes the Clergy alone proceeded to this Election; that at other times the Princes and Emperors have assum'd to them∣selves the power of appointing whom they plea∣sed to be Popes, and reserv'd the Confirmation also to themselves: That Lewis the Debonaire, and his Successors Lotharre I. and Lewis II. restor'd the Liberty of Election to the Church in the Ninth Age: That it was again taken from her in the Reign of Otho I. and not restor'd to her again till in the Twelfth Age. But now briefly to the manner of Election in use at this day.

The Cardinals that compose the Conclave re∣pair Morning and Evening to the Chappel, to make the Scrutiny; to which purpose they car∣ry every one of 'em a little Ticket, wherein is

written the Name of the Cardinal for whom they give their Suffrage for the Pontificate: This Billet also contains the Name of the Cardi∣nal Elector, which nevertheless is inclos'd in a Cover and seal'd up, and instead of a Super∣scription such a Motto or short saying as the Per∣son thinks of; as for example, God is my Help.—The Holy Ghost be my Guide. Every Car∣dinal throws his Billet into a Chalice that stands upon the Altar of the Chappel of the Conclave; and after all the Tickets are in, two Cardinals are appointed to open the first Fould of the Ticket, and read aloud the Persons Nam'd to the Pontifi∣cate which are writ down in a Register, yet not breaking open the Seal that encloses the Name of him that gives his Suffrage, unless it be found that two Thirds of the Suffrages are for one and the same Person, which is the number requisite to render the Election Authentick; but then the Seals are broke open, and the New Pope has the satisfaction to know who were the Persons that contributed to his Election. This Scrutiny also continues till two Thirds of the Voices meet; and after reading of the Scrutiny, if the two Thirds of the Suffrages do not agree upon the same Person, then they have recourse to that which they call Anough; that is to say, that eve∣ry one is at Liberty to give his Voice for him who had the most by the Scrutiny, with this Re∣servation, that the Person is not permitted to give his Voice, by the Anough, for him to whom they had given it by the Scrutiny. But if at length, neither the Scrutiny, nor the Anough de∣termine the Election, all the Tickets are burnt, to

the end the Names of the Electors may be kept secret. Sometimes the Election is carry'd by way of Inspiration, as they call it, which is as it were an open Declaration, several Cardinals cry∣ing out at the same time, such a one Pope. But this is never us'd, but when They who make that Exclamation are assur'd that they shall be upheld by the Suffrages of two Thirds of the Assembly.

When any one of the Cardinals is Elected. Pope, the Masters of the Ceremonies repairs to his Cell, to carry him the Tidings of his Exalta∣tation; after which he is conducted to the Chap∣pel, and Rob'd with the Pontifical Habit: Which done he receives the Adoration of the Cardinals; that is to say, the Respects which they are accu∣stom'd to pay the Sovereign Pontiff. That done, they seat him in the Pontifical Chair, and set him upon the Altar of the Apostles in St. Peter's Church▪ where the Cardinals perform the Cere∣mony of Adoration a second time. From thence his Holiness is reconducted to his Apartment, and some Days after they proceed to the Cere∣mony of his Coronation, as of a Temporal Prince. And here are to be observ'd the two Qualificati∣ons of a Pope; the one is as he is the Soveraign Pontiff and Head of the Church; the other, as he is a Temporal Prince, and Sovereign of a considerable State.

The Ceremony of the Coronation is perform'd in St. Peter's Church, where there is a Throne erected, to which the new Pope ascends, and being seated▪ his Miter is taken off, and the Crown set upon his Head before all the People.

And then begins the Cavalcade from St. Peters to St. John di Laterano, at what time all the Car∣dinals, Princes, and Ambassadors accompany him on Horseback. Being arriv'd at St. John di Laterano, the Archbishop of that Church pre∣sents the Pope with two Keys, the one of Gold, the other of Silver; and after he has given the Canons leave to kiss his Feet, his Holiness is at∣tended back to his Palace with the same Cere∣mony.

In the Account which I am going to give of the Curiosities in Rome most worthy the observa∣tion of a Traveller, I shall endeavour to omit nothing considerable of what came to my know∣ledge, and begin with a Description of the Churches, which are the fairest and best adorn'd of any in the World.

The Church of St. Peter is deservedly lookt upon to be the most beautiful, the largest and the most Superb in Europe. It is built in the Form of a Cross, 840 Geometrical Paces in length, 725 in breadth, 300 high, and 1465 in Circuit. The Roof of it is guilt, and it is co∣ver'd with Lead and Copper guilt. The whole Structure is lin'd with Marble within and with∣out side; and it is pav'd with square panes of Marble: Above one hundred Pillars support the Roof. of which the ancient Emperors despoyl'd Asia: Among the rest there are Twelve that Vespatian brought away from the Temple of So∣lomon. I say nothing of the Riches that glister in all the Chappels of the Church, nor of the in∣finite number of Relicks which are there pre∣serv'd. Those for which the People have the

greatest Veneration are the Vail of St. Veronica, with the Picture of our Saviour's Face; the Lance that was run into his Body; St. Peter's Wooden Pulpit, with the Bodies of several Saints. The Portico of this Church is 289 Foot long, 40 broad, and 133 in height; and it has five Doors that answer to the five Doors of the Church; of which one is call'd the Holy Door, as being never open'd but in time of Jubilee.

Over the Domo of the Church stands a Cu∣pola, or Globe of Copper guilt, which below seems not to be a Foot in Diameter, neverthe∣less it will hold above Twenty Men. After you have ascended a great number of Steps, you come to a Ladder of Eighteen Rounds which joyns to the Foot that sustains the Globe, so that you must get up with great trouble by the help of a Rope that is fasten'd above, and hangs down by the side of the Ladder. This Globe is about a Fingers breadth in thickness, having no more than four small Clefts, two Inches broad, and six high to let in the Light, and two Iron Bars run a-cross it for People to sit upon. 'Tis observable that no Body is permitted to go into it in the heat of Summer, for fear of being stifl'd. 'Tis said that St. Peter's Church cost Forty Three Millions of Gold, and was the Work of Twenty three Popes.

The Church of St. John, di Laterano, is very considerable, as well for the Antiquity of it, as for that it is the Episcopal Church of Rome; and because there it is, that the Pope takes Possession of his Dignity. There it was also where the Emperors receiv'd a Crown of Gold: It is all

Pav'd with Marble, and supported with Four rows of Guilded Pillars. Before the Church stands an Obelisk, a Hundred and fifteen Foot high, erected by Sixtus V. This Church was built by Constantine the Great, after his Con∣version, in the year 318. and enrich'd with se∣veral Crowns of Massie Gold and Silver. The Kings of France have a Right to present Two Canons of this Church to his Holiness, in con∣sideration of the Great Benefits this Church has receiv'd from His Most Christian Majesty; and there is a Solemn Service said in it every year in Memory of Henry IV. of France.

There is to be seen enchac'd in the Great Al∣tar, another little Altar, upon which they say, that St. Peter and some of his Successors said Mass, before they could be admitted the Pub∣lick exercise of Divine Worship. However, it were, no body must say Mass upon this Altar but the Pope himself, or a Cardinal that repre∣sents his Person, and he must have an Aposto∣lick Brief for that too. A Chair of Porphyrie is also shown to Foreigners, wherein the Pope Seats himself at the Door of the Church, when he takes Possession of the Papacy. There are a World of Relicks in this Church, as the Ark of the Old Testament, Moses's Rod, the Heads of St. Peter, St. Paul, and St. Zacharie, &c. too te∣dious to be here repeated.

Upon one side you ascend to St. John de La∣terano, by the Scala Santa, or Holy Ladder, which are Twelve Steps of White Marble, the same by which Christ ascended into Pilates Palace, and which Helena sent from Jerusalem to her Son

Constantine, then at Rome. People creep up these Stairs upon their Knees out of Devotion.

St. Anastasius's Church was formerly the Temple of Neptune.

The Church of St. Theodore was formerly the Temple of Romulus and Remus; and as it is said, 'tis built in the very same place where the Two Founders of Rome were Suckl'd by the Wolfe. The Hospital of Nostra Madonna of Consolation, was the Temple of Vesta, where the Vestal Vir∣gins kept the Sacred Fire.

St. Agnes's Church was formerly the Tem∣ple of Bacchus; That of St. Alexis upon Mount Aventine, was the Temple of Hercules. Upon St. Anthony of Padua's Day, the People bring all manner of Beasts to his Church in the Martian Valley, in hopes that Saint will preserve 'em from all Sickness, and from the devouring Jaws of the Wolfe. Sta. Barba's in the Quarter of Pigna, was the Temple of Venus. St. Bartholo∣mews in the Island, was the Temple of Jupiter and Escubapius. St. Blase's in the Field of Mars, was another Temple of Neptune. St. Cosmo and St. Damian was another Temple, formerly De∣dicated to Romulus and Remus. St. Laurences by Janicola was the Temple of Juno-Lucina. St. Lucius near the Palace, was the Temple of Apollo. St. Maries upon the Capitoline Hill was the Tem∣ple of Jupiter Feretrius. St. Nerea's was the Temple of Isis. Sta. Sabina up the Aventine Mount was the Temple of Diana.

St. Martin's Church in the Mount, is remarka∣ble for the Vault, which, as they say, was the Place wherein the Christian Religion was First

exercised, and where St. Sylvester held Two Councils, during the persecution of the Church. The Church of the Holy Cross in Jerusalem, which is one of the Seven Consecrated to the Cross, was built by Constantine, out of the ruins of the Temple of Venus and Jupiter; and because the Infidels had erected the Statue of Venus upon Mount Calvarie, and had given the Name of that Goddess to the Mount. Sta. Helena caus'd the Superficies of the Mountain to be par'd off, and sent the Earth to the Emperor Constantine her Son, who put it into the Chappel of that Church, where it is kept among the rest of the Reliques.

St. Pauls Church, a Mile without the City, was also founded by Constantine, in Honour of that Apostle, who lies there Enterr'd. It is 477 Foot Long, 258 Broad, and is supported by 100 Pillars of White Marble, in Four Rows. The Church of St. Maries de la Rotonda, formerly the Pantheon, is a considerable Structure, as well for that Agrippa, who was the Founder of it, set up the Statues of all the Ancient Deities therein, in that order of Dignity which the Heathens ascrib'd to 'em; as for that the Model of seve∣ral new Churches has been taken from the round Form of it. This same Structure is a Hundred and forty Foot high, and as many Broad, with∣out Pillars, having no other support then that of the Walls; which makes it lookt upon, as one of the boldest pieces of Architecture that is in Italy. There is no Light but what comes in at the Door, and at an Overture, about Eight Fa∣thom in circumference, it the top of the Church. This Building was formerly cover'd

with Plates of Silver, afterwards of Copper, and since that with Lead; but now Lastly, at this day with Large Stones.

There are a great many Hospitals in Rome, every Nation having one particularly belonging to it. But the Hospital of the Trinity, erected by Clement VIII. actually maintains Five thousand Persons; not to mention such as come by chance. In the Apostles Church, there is to be seen every year an Election of Twelve Gentlemen and one Prelate, for the distribution of Alms to such as are asham'd to make known their Necessities; and to the end they may be the more easily dis∣covered, there are several Boxes Lock'd up, and set up in Publick Places, having little Grates at the top, wherein they who are in want, may put in little Notes containing the Places of their Abode.

There are also Houses for young Girls of Ten or Twelve years of Age, when their Parents are not able to provide for 'em, for fear lest Po∣verty should tempt 'em to prostitute themselves. There is another House, over the Gate of which is to be read this Inscription, Per le Donne mal maritate. For the Women ill Married; Where they put such Women as are unfortunately Mar∣ried, or cannot agree with their Husbands: and where they stay till their differences are re∣concil'd, and that the one or the other testifies a desire to live peaceably together.

All sorts of lewd Strumpets that signifie a de∣sire to Repent and Reform their Lives, are ad∣mitted into St. Mary Magdalains in Corse, and are there maintain'd all the rest of their Lives: Nor

are they Lock'd up by force, as in the Spinning-House, in Amsterdam; but they must see no Men, unless it be their Confessor and their Physitian.

They who report that Brothel-houses are per∣mitted in Rome, say true; but not when they add that the Pope approves 'em, and receives a Tribute from 'em. For there is a great diffe∣rence between approving and conniving. Judaism is no more approved in Italy, then in England and Holland, thô the Jews are suffer'd in all these places, and have their Publick Synagogues. And the Popes are so far from laying any Tribute upon the infamous Traffick of the Daughters of Joy, that they have been the Founders of several Hospitals for the maintenance of young Girls, whose Fathers and Mothers are not able to keep 'em, lest Poverty should tempt them to Liberti∣nism: and they are maintain'd in those Hou∣ses, till they are of an Age to Marry, or enter into a Religious House; and they that are dis∣pos'd to Marry, have a reasonable Portion al∣low'd 'em, proportionable to the Match that offers it self, and every Annunciation Day, there is a considerable Sum of Money distributed in the Dominicans Church to 300 young Virgins that are in those Hospitals.

The Laws in respect of common Prostitutes are very rigorous: they are forbid to come into the Assemblies of Honest Women, or to frequent the places where they walk to take the Air: they must not go in a Coach in the Day time; nor stirr out of their Houses in the Night; nor may they converse together, to the end they may have no opportunity to encourage one another to de∣baucherie.

They are forbid upon pain of exempla∣ry Punishment, to admit any company into their Houses during Lent, nor during the Advent. They are bound to Register their Names in the Publick Registers, kept on purpose for the Cur∣tisans; who by that means are lookt upon as in∣famous for ever. They are not admitted to the Holy Communion, nor Buried in Holy Ground, but in the nasty places along by the Walls of the City. Lastly, they cannot make a Will, so that if they leave any Estate behind 'em, which is ve∣ry rarely, 'tis all confiscated for the Benefit of the Hospitals for young Virgins.

Those Places which they call Catacombs, are certain Subterraneal Walks, or Caverns. where the Primitive Christians performed the Exerci∣ses of their Religion, during the Persecutions of the Pagan Emperors, and where they privately also held some Councils. The Catacombs, most known in Rome, are those that open into the Churches St. Pancras, St. Sebastian, St. Agnes, and St. Laurence. They who have gone through 'em report, That they run almost quite under the City, even under the River Tiber. These Vaults are for the most part about Five Foot High, and Three in Breadth. By the sides of which lie the Bodies of several Saints and Mar∣tyrs, from whence the Pope causes the Holy Bodies to be taken up, and Presents 'em to Prin∣ces and Ambassadors, by such Names as his Ho∣liness thinks proper to give 'em. There are some Places in these Catacombs, where People are forc'd to crawl along upon their Bellies, for Twenty or Thirty Paces: and several Persons

that have gone thither to visit the Tombs of the Ancient Christians have laid their own Bones in the same place. For being engag'd too far with∣out good Guides, they have lost themselves; either their light failing 'em before they can find the way out again. or else being stifl'd with the smoak of the Torches.

The Palace of St. Peter's of the Vatican, where the Popes usually reside in Winter, is seated in the Burrough, the best fortify'd place in all the City. This Palace is of a very vast extent, in re∣gard it côntains above 5000 Rooms and Cham∣bers. It has three rows of Galleries adorn'd with Pictures, representing the Principal Histo∣ries of the Old and New Testament. In the Chambers also are an infinite Number of Marble and Alablaster Statues; more especially there is a Stone to be admir'd in the Imperial Chamber, upon which Nature has form'd the Image of Pius V. more exactly then any Pencil could have drawn it upon Cloth. This Palace so call'd from the Name of the Hill upon which it is seated, was begun in the Pontificate of Nicholas V. and finish'd under Leo V. but was embellish'd with Painting and Statues by Sixtus V. Clement VIII. Ʋrban VIII. and their Successors, who have made it a Palace fit for the Residence of the Severeign Pontiffs. In the midst of the Gallery that leads to Belvedere, stands the Vatican Library, which is lookt upon to be the fairest and the most fa∣mous for Number and Curiosity of Books in the World. There are an infinite Variety of Manu∣scripts in Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Arabick, &c. Writings upon Leaves of Wood, and Tablets of

Wax, of which they made use before the inven∣tion of Paper. There is a large Manuscript He∣brew Bible, and another Hebrew Bible written upon pieces of Parchment roll'd up, from whence the Latin word Volumen, with another Manu∣script written upon the Leaves of a Tree, as the Custome was in those days, whence the La∣tin word Folium for the Leaf of a Book. Lastly, There is a Greek Bible, which as they assure us, was one of the Seventy Copies of the Seventy Interpreters who Translated the Old Testament by the Command of Ptolomy Philadelphus, being shut up every one apart by themselves.

Before they leave the Vatican, Travellers go to see the Garden of Belvedere, so call'd be∣cause from that place you have a prospect over the whole City. 'Tis to be observ'd that what we call a Garden of Pleasure, in Italy they call a Vinyard. This Vinyard of Belvedcre is remarka∣ble for an infinite number of Marble. Brass, and Alablaster Statues; among which is the Statue of the River Tiber, resting upon a Wolf that gives suck to Romulus and Rhemus; and on the other side Nilus with Seventeen Children, every one about a fathom in height, denoting the Se∣venteen various measures to which the Waters of that River encrease. There is also to be seen a Cleopatra expiring after her being bitten by a Ser∣pent twisted about her Arm; a Venus Ericina co∣ming out of a Bath; the Statues of Bacchus, Mer∣cury, Apollo, and Laocoon and his Children folded about with two Surpents.

The Piazza of the Vatican, commonly call'd St. Peter's Piazza, is one of the fairest in Rome, adorn'd with a Fountain that spouts up the Wa∣ter, as big about as a Man's Middle, and as high as a Half-Pike; and an Obelisk, which is call'd the Needle by reason of the shape and height of it. This is a Stone that was brought from Egypt, by the Command of Caligula, at an incredible charge, and was set up in Nero's Circus; but Sixtus V. caus'd it to be remov'd into the Vatioan Piazza. It is 217 Foot high, comprehend∣ing the Basis about 12 Foot in circumference be∣low, and 8 at the top. It is supported by four Lions of Brass guilt, that stand upon a large Pe∣destal of Marble.

The Castle of St. Angelo is one of the best For∣tresses in Italy, and has been the Sanctuary of se∣veral Popes in the Troubles of Italy. Alexander VI. built a private Coridor, or Gallery, which leads from the Palace of St. Peter, to the Castle, to the end the Popes might retire in a Time of necessity without being seen. Prisoners of State are committed thither; and the Treasure of the Church, the Records and Rolls, the Triple Crown, with the five Millions which Sixtus V. laid up there, with a prohibition upon pain of Excommunication to all his Successors, forbiding 'em to touch it, but upon a most urgent necessity for the defence of the City, to which end that Sum was only design'd. As to the Name of the Castle, it was so call'd, as they say, from the Sta∣tue of an Angel that stands at the top of the Frontispiece with a Sword in his Hand, in me∣mory of St. Gregories Vision, in which an Angel

appear'd to him sheathing his Sword, to let him understand that the Wrath of God was appeasd toward the Romans, who had been very much afflicted with War, Pestilence and Famine.

Near the Castle is a Bridge over the Tiber, call'd St. Angelo's Bridge, built almost in the same place where formerly stood the Triumphal Bridge, by reason that all the Triumphs that were decreed in Rome, pass'd that way. But now we see no more remaining but only the sad Ru∣ines of that Pompous Vanity, it being the Will of God, that that piece of solemn Luxury should be quite extinct, by reason the Excess of those Triumphs was grown to that degree of Exorbi∣tancy, that had the use of 'em continu'd, Men would have been made use of instead of Beasts to draw the Victors Chariot. Camillus's was drawn by four White Horses; Pompey's by four Elephants; Mark-Antony's by four Lyons; and Nero's by four Hermophradites; Aurelian's by six Harts, and Firmius's by six Ostriches.

The Capitol is one of the most ancient Build∣ings in Rome, so call'd from the Head of a Man that was found when the Foundations of it were laid by the Orders of Tarquin the Proud. The Structure was finish'd and cover'd with Brass guilt in the Consulship of Pulvillus. Catulus con∣secrated it to Jupiter Capitolinus; and it was a∣dorn'd with a great number of Statues of Massie Gold and Silver, which represented the Ancient Roman Magistrates and Consuls, and it had 3000 Brass Tables when one part of it was consum'd by Fire. Nor was that the only Fire which de∣fac'd this Building, for it was again burnt down

in Sylla's time: A third time in the Reign of Do∣mitian; and a fourth under Commodus. So that it wants that Wealth and Magnificence which for∣merly render'd it so famous. An Ascent of 128 Steps led up to it, and there are still remarkable in it for curious pieces of Workmanship two Sta∣tues of Constantine upon two Horses of Marble, and in the Grand piazza stands a Brass Statue of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus on Horse-back. The Palace of the Conservators, which is also a part of the Capitol, is adorn'd with an infinite number very curious Statues.

Upon the Quirinal Hill are to be seen the Ruines of Constantine's Bathing Places. These sorts of Buildings were very large and sumptu∣ous in every respect; and there are also to be seen at Rome some Ruines of the Emperors Alex∣ander, Severus, Nero, Titus, Trajan, Philippus, and Caracalla's Baths.

They that are very curious are easily led to see upon the Palatin Hill, the Lake or Gulf of Cur∣tius, a kind of an Abyss whence formerly issued forth a Stench that caus'd the Pestilence in Rome, upon which the Oracle being consulted, return'd for Answer, that the Contagion should not cease, till they had thrown into the Gulph whatever Rome had of most precious. Presently the Roman Ladies threw in all their Jewels; but that not a∣vailing Curtius, a Roman Knight, imagining there was nothing more pretious than a Brave and a Valiant Man, and willing to signalize his Pre∣sumption and his Zeal for his Country, threw himself headlong Horse and Man into the Abyss, and then the Plague ceas'd.

In that Quarter which is call'd the Field of Mars, stands Antoninus's Pillar, upon which are represented in half Relief the Glorious Actions of that Emperor against the Armenians, the Par∣thians, the Germans, &c. Two hunder'd and se∣ven Marble Steps lead up to the top of it, the Light coming in at six little Windows. It con∣sists of no more then Eight and twenty Marble Stones, which being joyn'd together, make a Hundred seventy five Foot in heighth. Of late they have plac'd upon the top of it a Statue of St. Paul of guilt Brass.

Trajan's Column in the Piazza of the same Name consists of no more then four Stones that rise to 140 Foot in heighth; to the top of which there is an Ascent of 185 Steps, enlighten'd by 44 Windows. Formerly they had set upon the top of this Column an Urn with Trajan's Ashes in it; but that is since taken down, and the Statue of St. Peter in Brass erected in the room of it.

Nor must I bury in silence the Statues of Pas∣quin and Manforio; for they that talk so often of others, must not be themselves forgotten. It is call'd the Statue of Pasquin, because that all the Satyrs which are made in Rome, call'd Pasquina∣des are always fix'd upon it. Some say this Sta∣tue was erected in Honour of one of Alexander's Soldiers who had done him many signal Services. Others reject this Opinion, and tell us that the Word Pasquin is deriv'd from a Taylor who made Cloaths for Persons of Quality in Rome; and in regard he was a very great Droll, he observ'd their blind sides, to make Lampoons upon 'em

in his Shop, which always gain'd him good Com∣pany. They add that sometime after his De∣cease the Paviers digging before his Door found a Statue, to which they presently gave the Name of Pasquin, and set it up in the next Quarter to his House. However it were, it was propos'd to one of the Popes, that it might be thrown in∣to Tiber, to take away all Opportunities of Li∣belling and Lampoons that were fix'd upon it. But the Holy Father made answer that he was afraid it would turn to a Frog that would be croaking Day and Night: intimating thereby, that instead of stopping the Course of Satyrs, the Lampooners would fix 'em upon all the Statues in the City.

Not far from the Capitol stands another Sta∣tue call'd Manforio, where generally are hung up the Answers made to the Lampoons which are fix'd upon Pasquin. Some say this Statue was erected in honour or Jupiter Panarius; o∣thers that it is a Statue of the Rhine. because that formerly the Emperot Domitian's Brazen Horse set his Foot upon the Head of it.

There is no City in the World wherein there are more Magnificent Palaces. The Learned Mr. Spon, in his Travels into the East has given us a Catalogue of 'em, which has sav'd me the trouble. I shall only say, that the Palace of the Farnezi is one of the most sumptuous. It has four Fronts with a large Gate belonging to eve∣ry one that leads into the Court, and is surroun∣ded with Pillars forming Portico's that support an open Gallery that leads to every Apartment, In this Court stand two Statues of Hercules lean∣ing

upon his Club; one of which was found in Caracalla's Baths; the other is an Imitation of That. In the Palace Hall stands the Statue of Alexander Farneze, Duke of Parma, who tram∣ples under foot two Statues representing Heresie and Rebellion, while Fame sets a Crown upon his Head. This Piece is so much the more e∣steem'd, because all the four Peices are all of one single Stone of White Marble. There are an infinite number of other Lovely Statues and Pictures in the Apartments belonging to this Pa∣lace: More particularly there is to be seen a Marble Statue in a small Back-Court, represen∣ting the Figure of a Bull, all of one Stone, ha∣ving one of the Horns ty'd with a Woman's Hair, while two Men endeavour to throw 'em into the Sea. 'Tis the History of Amphion and Zethes, who in revenge of the injury done their Mother, whom Lycus King of Thebes had repu∣diated, upon the Importunity of Dirce, ty'd Dirce to the Horns of a Bull, and cast 'em both Head∣long into the Sea.

One of the Curiosities of Rome, which Stran∣gers always visit, is to be found in Prince Ludo∣visio's Palace; that is to say, the Body of a Man petrefy'd and laid in a Velvet Box, with one Leg broken, to convince the Incredulity of the Curious, who will not believe that the Ske∣leton was cover'd with Stone, because they say it was a Garment made on purpose. This justi∣fies what Ortelius affirms, That upon certain Mountains of Tartary, there are to be found Men, Camels, Sheep, &e. chang'd into Stones for above Three Hundred Years past: And▪

Aristotle reports that there is a Cave near Berga∣mo, where are to be seen the Petrify'd Bodys of several Men.

When I enumerated the Churches of Rome, I forgot to tell ye, that in the Church call'd La Bocca di Verita, there is a piece of Marble re∣presenting a Head with the Mouth open; And the Good Women do say, that if a Woman Un∣faithful to her Husband's Bed, lays her Hand upon it, the Mouth will shut. The Roman Wo∣men who have Jealous and Credulous Hus∣bands, frequently justifie their Chastity by this means, wherein they run far less hazard then they who formerly were constrain'd to walk bare-foot over red hot Coals, and Plough∣shares.

This is what I purpos'd to say of the Famous City of Rome, wherein though I have omitted many things, yet there is sufficient to give an Advantageous Idea of it to those who have never seen it; and to breed in others a desire of see∣ing it.

CHAP. XII. Of the Kingdom of Naples.

THERE is not any State in Italy of that vast Extent as the Kingdom of Naples. Some Italian Authors have call'd it Sicily on this side the Pharos, which is the reason that the Kings of Spain have assum'd the Title of Kings of both Sicilies. Generally this Kingdom is divided into Twelve Provinces; viz. La Terra di Lavore, Principato Giteriore, Principato Ʋlteriore, Calabria Ʋlteriore, La Terra d' Otranto, La Terra di Bari, La Capitanata, the County of Molisso, the hi∣thermost Abruzzo, and the furthermost Abruzzo: It is reckon'd to contain 24 Archbishopricks, 60 Principalities, 100 Dukedoms, as many Marqui∣sates, 66 Earldoms, and above 1000 Baronies. Which shews us, that the Nobility multiplies in that Kingdom, more then any where else; which is the reason that Naples is call'd Naples the Noble. The Air is very wholsome, and the Country ve∣ry fruitful in Corn, Wine, and all sorts of Fruits, This Kingdom has not been free from Revoluti∣ons that have turmoyl'd the Repose of Italy upon several Occasions. It has been in the Possession of the Romans, Goths, Lombards, Normans, Sua∣bians, French and Spaniards. Which latter Usurp'd it from the French who have an undoubted claim

to it, as well by the Investiture given by Clement IV. both of that Kingdom, as also of Sicily, to Charles of France, Duke of Anjou and Provence, Brother of St. Lewis in 1265. as for that Queen Joan I. by her last Will and Testament, dated June 29, 1480. adopted Lewis of France I. of that Name: Jane II. who possessed the Throne from the Year 1414. till the Year 1434. adopted Rene of France, Sirnam'd, The Good; which acquir'd him a double Right. But Ferdinand King of Spain, contrary to the Treaty made with Lewis XII. King of France, sent a Puissant Army into Italy, under the leading of the Famous Gonsalvo, who drove the French out of Naples and Sicily; since which time the Spaniards have been in pos∣session of 'em, and keep a Viceroy there, who is chang'd every three Years. The Kingdom of Naples holds of the Holy See; and the King of Spain pays every year to the Pope upon St. Pe∣ter's Day a Tribute of a White Nag, and a Purse of 7000 Ducats. But the Neapolitans do not willingly brook the Spanish Yoak: And therefore they have endeavour'd to cast it off se∣veral Times: But their last Insurrection was in the years 1646. and 1647. tho they fail'd in the success, because the Design was ill laid, and 'for that the Male-Contents had no body to head em but a sorry Fisherman, vulgarly known by the Name of Masaniello, who for above 15 Days Commanded above 200000 Men, who paid him a blind Obedience.

This Kidgdom that stretches it self forth in Form of a Peninsula, is bounded to the East by the Ionian Sea; to the North by the Gulph of

Venice, by the Tuscan Sea to the South; and by the Ecclesiastical Territories to the West. It is about 500 Miles Broad, and 1500 in Cir∣cuit.

The City of Naples, the Metropolitan of this flourishing Kingdom, is seated upon the Sea-Shore; formerly call'd Parthenopea, and is de∣fended by three Citadels provided with all things necessary to keep the Neapolitans under the Spa∣nish Yoke; of which one is call'd the Norman Castle, as being founded by William III. Duke of Normandy and King of Naples: The Second call'd the New Castle, was built by Charles I. Brothrr to St. Lewis; but Ferdinand King of Ar∣ragon, who understood the importance of it, caus'd it to be fortify'd after an extraordinary manner; and it has always a Garrison in it of 500 Natural Spaniards. The Castle of St. Elmo which cemmands one part of the City, was built by Robert I. the Son of Charles II. and the Empe∣ror Charles V. after he had caus'd it to be well fortify'd, call'd it the Bridle of Naples. Besides these Castles there are also some Towres and o∣ther Buildings, which are call'd by the Name of Fortresses, as the Capuan Castle, which however are of no other use then for the Councils of Ju∣stice and the Civil Government to Assemble in.

The Viceroy's Palace is very spacious, richly Furnish'd, and incloses several Curiosities, among others, a Plant about Two Fingers in breadth, and about a Foot and a halfe long, upon which the Ancients wrote before the use of Paper was invented. A Stone, which being scrap'd, yields a

kind of Cotton, of which the Pagans made a certain sort of Cloth to wrap the Dead Bodies, which they burnt, by reason that this Cloth be∣ing incombustible, preserv'd the Ashes of the Corps entire, This sort of Cloth is in use among some People in India; the nature of it being such, thar when 'tis Foul, 'tis but throw∣ing it into the Fire, and it becomes as white as Snow.

The Port of Naples would be one of the best Ports in Italy▪ were it but shelter'd from the South-East Wind. The City is very neatly Built; The Streets are Broad, Long, and as Streight as a Line, and so order'd▪ that there runs a Canal through every Street, as in the Cities of Holland, which receive the Filth and Nastiness through Iron Grates, so that the Streets are always clean. It may be about Six Miles in compass, compre∣hending the Seven Suburbs; and it has been all along the Residence of Illustrious Men, by rea∣son of the mild and temperate Air which it en∣joys; in the number of which we may reckon Virgil, Livie, Horace, Seneca, &c.

The Cathedral Church is Dedicated to St. Januarius formerly Bishop of Beneventum, who is the Fourteenth Patron that the Neapoli∣tans have made choice of: and they keep the Blood of this Saint as a Sacred Relique, which is congeal'd in Vessels: but if they lay it to the Saints Head, such is the Story which they tell, it presently turns Liquid, and rowls up into little Bubbles.

As for the Neapolitan Money, they reckon all by Carolino's; every Carolino being worth about Ten Sols of France: the Spanish Pistol goes for Three and thirty Carolino's; a Sequin for Twen∣ty Carolino's; a Piaster weighs Nine Carolino's; besides which, they have some small Copper-Money, that goes in the Markets.

After that Strangers have seen the Curiosities of Naples, rhey visit the Wonders in the parts adjoyning: for an infinite number of surprizing Things that are to be met with in the Kingdom of Naples, may well be call'd by that Name.

The Mountain Vesuvius may well deserve to be plac'd in the First rank of these Wonders, as being so frequently all in a Flame. Not to mention that Inundation of Fire which hap'ned in Titus's Reign, wherein Plinie was a little too far engag'd, out of Curiosity; nor of several others; I shall only say, that this Mountain, which is above Seven Leagues from Naples, continually vomits forth Fire, sometimes more, sometimes less violently; which has many times laid wast the Country, and very much annoy'd the City of Naples. There was formerly upon this Hill, the Loveliest Vineyards in the Coun∣try, and a very beautiful Village, containing above 2500 Inhabitants; but in the year 1631. this Infernal Chimney, as Tertullian calls it, vo∣mited forth such a Deluge of Flames, accom∣panied with a Torrent of Sulphur, and a Show∣er of Stones, that all the poor People were ei∣ther burnt of stifl'd, and their Town was buri∣ed in the Cinders, that lay more then Ten Foot thick above the Steeple of the Church. Stones

are also there to be seen, of a prodigious igness, and there are People still living, that beheld a Torrent of Sulphur, Alome and Salt-Peter fall from the Top of the Moun∣tain. Some time before this dismal Ravage, the Smoak, that issu'd continually forth, increas'd, and was intermix'd with Flames and Ashes; soon after, it was accompany'd with a noise so dreadful, that you would have thought that na∣ture was about to have been swallow'd up: this noise was attended with an Earthquake that swell'd up the Sea; and at length the Moun∣tain bursting, pieces of Rock, all of a light Fire, flew out, and the Sulphur that ran down, float∣ed upon the Sea no less then Three Miles from the Shore; and 'tis thought that if the Wind had not prov'd favourable to the City of Naples, it had been buried in the Cinders that flew from the Mountain. This terrible accident is engrav'd upon a Marble Stone, that stands in the High way which leads from Naples to Vesuvius, Seve∣ral People out of Curiosity, have gone up to the top of the Mountain, by a way cut out of the Ashes for above Two Miles together, and found at the top of the Mountain, a wide Abyss, about Two Miles in circumference, and as many deep; wherein there appear'd another, no less wide then the First, from whence issu'd out a thick Smoak that smelt of Sulphur.

The Mountain Pausilipus is remarkable for the Subterraneal way cut through the Mountain for above a Mile together, thô it be all of Free Stone; This Cavern is call'd The Grotto of Na∣ples, and was made to shorten the Passage from

Naples to Puzzuolo. For in regard that Moun∣tain stretches out into the Sea, like a Promonto∣ry there is no passage left upon the Shore: So that before that Way was made, the Ascent and Descent of the Mountain was very painful and laborious. There are some who averr it to be the Work of Lucullus; others ascribe it to Cocceius Nerva: But however it were, the way is about a Mile in length, and between Twelve and Thir∣teen Foot high, and so broad that Two Coaches may goe a Breast, There is no Light comes in∣to it but by the two Entrances, and by two small Overtures, which Alphonso VII. King of Naples caus'd to be boar'd through the top of the Grotto, much about the middle of it, where there is a Lamp continually burning before the Image of the Virgin; but notwithstanding the Darkness of the Place, you are never pester'd, by reason that they who come from Naples, always keep the Right hand, and they who Travel thither take the Left.

Virgil's Tomb stands in the Garden of Severino, shaded with Laurels, almost at the entrance in∣to the Grotto.

After this you must see the Lake Avernus, which Virgil calls The Lake of Hell, because the Birds that fly over it, are poison'd with the stench that exhales from the Water. It may be above Two thousand Paces long, and half as broad. The Ancients faign'd that Charon ply'd there with his Boat, in regard the River Acheron forms this Lake, upon the Banks of which are to be seen the Ruines of the Temple of Apollo.

Nor is the Lake d'Agnano far from it, envi∣ronn'd with Mountains, and thought to be bot∣tomless in the middle. Thô the Water be full of Serpents, yet has it the good Quality to Cure such Beasts, as entring into such a venemous Grotto adjoyning, call'd The Dogs Grotto, are dragg'd, halfe stifl'd with the Sulphurie Steam, that in an hours time would kill 'em quite.

The Lake Lucrinus, the most abounding in Fish of any in the Kingdom, formerly intermix'd with Avernus, by means of a Canal: But in 1538. or as others say, upon Michaelmas Night in 1636. an Earthquake, not only fill'd up the Canal, but sett a Mountain above Four Miles in compass, between the Two Lakes.

The Alome Mountain yields a great Revenue to the King of Spain. The Ancients made an Infernal Mansion of it, and plac'd Vulcan's Work-house there; because they saw nothing but Flames all Night upon it, and Smoak all Day; and for that the Sulphurie Vapour infected the Air for above a League round; The Trench, from which this Smoak arises, being a Thousand Foot wide, and Fifteen hundred in length. All the Land about Puzzuolo is nothing but Sulphu∣rie Earth, so that you shall see the Smoak rise under your Feet through the Clefts in the High way, occasion'd by the Drowth of the Wea∣ther.

Not far from the Mountain of Brimstone, lies the Ʋsurers Lake, because it never restores any thing that is plung'd into the Water, which is very black, thick, and bolls all day long. If you throw Meat into it, it comes out halfe boil'd, and

the one halfe of it consum'd: And if you put into it Three Eggs in a close Basket, 'tis said, that be as cautious as you can, you shall pull out but Two, the Lake taking the Third as due for Tribute.

Near Puzzuolo, is a Subterraneal Labyrinth, in∣to which you must not enter without lighted Torches, and a Skein of Thread, which you must be very careful to preserve from breaking, unless you will run the hazard of losing your way. This Labyrinth is compos'd of an infinite number of Rooms, one within another: And there are likewise to be seen in the same place, some Ruins of the Temples of Diana and Nep∣tune: Nero's Stoves, that yield a very great Heat; Four Chambers furnish'd with Stone Beds, and Boulsters of the same Materials, would entice a Man to take his Rest there, were they not a little of the hardest: Cicero's Baths are in a large Room, where the Letters are scrap'd out that were written upon the Roof, because that Sick People were so vain as to believe they should be Cur'd so soon as they had read 'em. Others affirm, that those Inscriptions were only the Names of such sick People as those Baths had Cur'd, but that the Physitians caus'd 'em to be raz'd out, under pretence that they were Ma∣gical Characters.

The Baths of Tirtola lie not far distant; being a very long Grotto, into which you are no sooner enter'd but you begin to sweat; but when you are at the end of the Grotto, you feel less heat: And if you feel it too hot, you need no more then stoop to the Ground, and there comes up

a coolness very refreshing. 'Tis said that at the farther end of this Grotto there are Baths that are qualify'd with excellent Vertues; but that they are but very little frequented, by reason the Access to 'em is so frightful.

About a 100 Paces from the Lake Lucrinus, you meet with other Baths, some cold, others hot. These are Caverns in the Rock, wherein they have cut out certain Receptacles to Bath in. When you enter into the cold Baths, there are several Chambers hew'd out of the Rock, where there are a great number of those Receptacles, some full, others empty. 'Tis said that every Receptacle had a peculiar vertue to cure several Distempers; and they know 'em by the Statues erected near the Receptacles, laying a hand upon the part affected.

When you leave these Baths, you ascend some Steps that are cut out of the Rock which lead to the hot Baths; and when you have gone forward about 20 or 30 Paces, there is a deep place full of Water almost boyling hot; on the side of which there is a Grotto.; but the Descent into it is so hot, that it fetches out the Sweat by very great drops, because the Vapours and Exhalations are so violent.

Near to Cumae, which is lookt upon to be the Mother of Naples, is to be seen the Grotto of the Cumaean Sybil, which though a Pagan, foretold the Birth of Christ, and the Mysteries of the In∣carnation. You enter into it through a long and wide Walk cut out of the Rock, which former∣ly led to the City of Cumae. After you have gone 450 Paces, upon the right hand you meet

with a very low Door, which leads into a Cham∣ber 14 Foot long, and 8 wide, the Roof of which is painted with Gold and Azure, and the Walls inlay'd with Coral, and Mother of Pearl. On the left hand of that Chamber, is another Door which leads into a Walk cut out of the Rock also, 4 Foot high, and 40 long. At the end of it is a Chamber that leads into two other Cham∣bers, in the one of which is a kind of a small Lake: Now in regard the Room is very hot, and for that you cannot tarry long in it without Sweating, 'tis conjectur'd that it was the Sybil's Bath. And because that all these Apartments are under ground, and for that no Light comes into 'em, you must take care to be well furnish'd with Flambeaus, or Wax-Candles, and to be no less cautious that they do not go out. Now be∣cause all the Rocks in this part of the Kingdom of Naples are full of these Grotto's, 'tis thought that the Ancient Inhabitants liv'd under ground.

After you have taken a view of all the Rarities about Puzzuolo, you take Boat and slip over to Baiae, which lies not above 4 Miles distant, and where there are also several Remarkable Curiosi∣ties. More especially some Ruins of Caligula's famous Bridge, who to fulfil the Prophesie of an Astrologer, that in the time of Tiberius foretold that Caligula should be Emperor when he should ride on Horseback over the Golph between Puz∣zuolo and Baiae, joyn'd to the Bridge which the Romans had then already begun, two rows of Ships stay'd by huge Anchors, over which he laid a great number of Planks, and so rode over both on Horseback, and in his Chariot. There are

some who believe that Caligula did not only design the fulfilling of that Prophesie, but that he was at that vast expence, to imitate Xerxes, and to terrisie the People of Europe that were unsubdu'd at that time. The Sand all along that Coast has two peculiar Qualities; that although the Water be cold, the Sand at the bottom of the Sea is so hot that you can scarce endure to touch it, and when it comes out of the Water, it becomes as hard as Marble.

It was at Baiae where Agrippina was stabb'd by the Command of Nero her Son, who was so cruel as to rip open her Body, that he might in∣spect the place where he had lain Nine Months. This Misfortune was foretold that Princess long before. For having consulted the Oracle con∣cerning the Destiny of the Fruit which she bare in her Womb; answer was return'd her, Thou shalt bring forth a Son who shall be Emperor, but he shall put Thee to Death. To which she reply'd. Let him put me to Death, provided that he Reign. Her Tomb is in a Grotto, where there is a Cave cut out of the Rock, adorn'd with some Scul∣ptures which represent the Empress surrounded with some Birds of Prey.

There is also a certain Subterraneal Structure to be seen at Baiae, which is call'd Piscina Mira∣bile, or, The Wonderful Fish-Pond. It is support∣ed with about 45 or 50 Pillars, and lin'd with Ciment; which makes People believe that it is a Cistern wherein the Ancients preserv'd Rain-wa∣ter for their Drink, in regard that all the Water thereabout tastes strong of the Minerals.

There is another Subterraneal Structure, call'd the hundred Little Chambers, all built of Brick, wherein they formerly put their Slaves belong∣ing to the Galleys that always Winter'd at Baiae. There are an infinite number of Curiosities more in the parts about Puzzuolo and Baiae: and with∣out question, there is no part of Europe where there are to be seen the Ruines of so many Pagan Temples, Tombs, Amphitheaters, Aqueducts, Grotto's, Palaces, &c. So that in regard it would take up above six Months for a Traveller to take up an exact view of all those Rarities, it would require a Volume in Folio to make a faithful Enumeration and Description of 'em.

But though I am leaving the Parts adjoyning to Puzzuolo, yet I am not quitting the Kingdom of Naples, before I have made some other Re∣marks worthy the Reader's Curiosity.

In the Province of Tarentum, there are a sort of Lizards, by which if a Man be bitten, he cannot be cur'd but by Dancing, and the sound of Instruments. They add further, that these Animals never bite any but the People of the Country, and that it was a Punishment which befel 'em, because that being Dancing one Day, they would not quit their Jollity but for so long time till the Host past by 'em.

The Territory of Otranto is a kind of Penin∣sula, environ'd with the Adriatick and Ionick Seas, and much infested with Locusts, that are pursu'd and hunted after by a sort of Birds not to be seen in other Parts. The City of Otranto, the Metropolis of the Province is considerable for being an Archbishoprick, and for the Haven from

whence they generally take Shipping for Greece. In former time Pyrrhus had a design to have joyn'd Greece to Italy with a Bridge of Ships, in that part where Otranto stands, though the two Coasts are above 60 Miles, or 25 French Leagues asunder. Otranto had the Misfortune to be plunder'd by the Turks in 1481. but it was nothing near so strong then, as it is now.

Brindisi, or Brundusium: another Archbishop∣prick and Haven, famous for the Passage of Ju∣lius Caesar into Greece, in pursuit of Pompey, whom he Besieg'd, and forc'd to retire into Epi∣rus.

The Extrrordinary Devotion that oblig'd se∣veral Emperors and Kings to visit Mount St. An∣gelo, especially the Emperor Otho, who Travell'd Bare-foot to Rome with all his Court, engages me to say something of it. 'Tis reported that St, Michael having had a Vision in those parts. made choice of it for the Place of his Abode, and digg'd a Grotto in the Rock. A Marble Portal leads into this Subterraneal Cavern, and you go down a descent of 55 Marble Steps into it. There is to be seen the little Altar consecrated by St. Michael himself, together with several o∣ther Chappels under Ground: Besides, there is a Fountain of Water of Sovereign Vertue for the Cure of several Distempers. The Devotion paid to this Place, and the Resort of People to it, has occasion'd the building of a City and several Churches.

Rossano is another Archiepiscopal City of Cala∣bria, for nothing considerable but for the Church of St. Maries. into which the Women are not

admitted to enter: For which the People of the Country give this Reason. The Holy Vir∣gin, say they, having shew'd St. Bartholomew the Place where he should build that Church, she still appear'd to him at a distance from the En∣closure of the Walls, while the Church was building, and commanded that Saint not to let any Woman enter into it but to order 'em to stand without and hear Mass. They further add, that some Women happening to go in, either out of Curiosi∣ty, or Devotion, there arose such a violent Storm of Rain, Hail and Thunder, that never ceas'd till the Women were gone out, and had given Testimonies of their Repentance for their Rash∣ness; and they pretend that their Ancestors have seen several Tryals in Confirmation of the Truth of this Story.

Salerno, the Metropolis of the hithermost Principato, derives its Name from the little Ri∣vers of Salo and Erno, that water the Territory belonging to it. When Naples was Govern'd by particular Kings of their own, their eldest Sons bore the Title of Princes of Salerno. In the Convent of Jacobins, there is a Bell that sometimes Towls alone of it self; and they pretend that such a spontaneous Towling, presages the approaching death of some Fryer in the Convent.

Amalfi in the same Province is famous for the invention of the Needle and Compass, and for being the First place that contributed to the Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem.

Capoua. An Archiepiscopal City in the Terra di Lavoro, was formerly accounted the third City in the World; Rome and Carthage being the other

two. It is now seated about two Miles distant from the place, where ancient Capua stood: nor is considerable for any thing but the Name of it, and some deplorable Ruins of her Ancient Thea∣ters, Aqueducts, Portico's, Temples and Sub∣terraneal Vaults. It was formerly call'd the Mansion of Pride and Pleasure, as well by reason of the Magnificence of it; as for that Hannibal in one Winter Quarter of a year, was so soften'd and effeminated with the Pleasures and Delights of that City, that he was no longer able to with∣stand the Romans, whom he had so often defea∣ted before.

Gaeta is another City in the same Province, built by Aeneas's Nurse in honor of his Nurse Caieta The Castle belonging to it, is considerable for the strength of it, and is well provided of all things necessary for the defence of it. The Sta∣tue of Charles of Bourbon, Constable of France, is also there to be seen, who being in the Ser∣vice of Charles V. was slain at the Siege of Rome, and lies buried at Caieta. Upon his Tomb are written the four following Verses in Spanish.

Francia me clio la leche, Espagna suerte y ventura. Roma me clio la muerte Y Caieta la Sepultura.

My Infant Milk I Suckt in France, Spain did my Lot and Fame advance; Death snatcht me from the Walls of Rome, And now Caieta has my Tomb.

The Dolphins that appear upon this Coast are very large, which gives an occasion to con∣clude this Chapter with a report of an accident that befell a Seaman of Caieta. That a Sea-man having caught one of these Fish, preserv'd it alive in a small Pond, and tam'd him to that degree, that he would often get upon his Back, and managing him with his Voice only, accu∣stom'd the willing fish, proud of his burden, to car∣ry him for his Pleasure to and fro upon the wide Sea. Some time after it happen'd, that the Sea-man embarking for Spain, the Fish made his escape to follow the Vessel in which he heard his Masters Voice: and it so fell out, that the Ship being cast away, the faithful Fish distinguish'd his Ma∣ster from among all the rest that cry'd out for Help, and having taken him upon his Back, re∣turn'd with him to the Port from whence he set out.

CHAP. XIII. Os the Islands and Kingdoms of Sicily and Sardigna.

SOme Authors have written, that Sicily which is the biggest Island in the Mediterranean, with the Title of a Kingdom, was formerly joyn'd to Italy, and that a storm of Wind occa∣sion'd the separation; others assert, that it was divided from it by an Earthquake. It was first

inhabited by Giants, by Listrigons and Cyclops; it was likewise call'd The Island of the Sun, and Trinacrea, by reason of the Three Promontories of Faro, Passaro and Boco, which are so plac'd. that the whole Island resembles a Greek Delta. It is seated between 36 and 40 Degree of Lon∣gitude, and the Latiude extends from the 35 to 88 Degree. The circuit of the Sea-coast takes up a Hundred Fourscore and Ten Leagues; where it is longest; Sixty Leagues in length, and Fifty, where it is broadest. 'Tis but Seven Miles from Cape Faro to Seiglio in the Kingdom, of Naples. Some will have this Island to hang in the Seas, being supported only by Three Pil∣lars that are under the Three Promontories, and to justifie their Opinion, assert, That the River Salso, that rises out of a Hole in the middle of the Island, comes from the Sea, by reason the Water is Salt.

The Air is very wholesome, thô somewhat of the hottest for Strangers. The Soil is so fertile in Corn, Wine, and all sorts of Fruits, that Sicily was call'd the Granary of Italy. The Ho∣ney, Oil, Wax, Sugar, Saffron, &c. which are all the Products of that Island, draw a great Trade to it. Besides, there are found in this Island, great store of Agates, Emraulds, Jasper, Porphyrie, Salt, and several Mineral Mines: and all the Sea-coasts abound in Fish.

When the Roman Empire fell to decay, Sicily was plunder'd and Usurp'd by the Vandals. Af∣ter that the Saracins settl'd in it, till they were expell'd by the Normans in 1070. Charles of France, Duke of Anjou, Count of Provence, and

Brother of St. Lewis. was invested in the King∣doms of Naples and Sicily, and the French re∣main'd Masters of it till the year 1282, or as others say, 1283. at what time, upon an Easter day, at the Hour of Vespers, the Sicilians, solli∣cited by the Arragonians, Massacred all the French in the Churches, little dreaming of such a fatal surprize: and this was the Massacre which still carries the Name of the Sicilian Ves∣pers. Since that, the Spaniards setl'd themselves there. and are still in possession of it, sending a Viceroy thither to Govern it.

Spanish Pistoles, Piasters and Reals, as also Sequins of Venice goe currant in Sicilie, provi∣ded the Pieces be weight; for they Coin no other Money but Tarins. A Spanish Pistole is worth Forty Tarins; and the Venetian Sequin, Twenty four: Every Tarin is worth about Five Sols of France. When they make any Pay∣ment, they reckon all by Ounces; and by an Ounce they mean 30 Tarins, which make Seven Livres, Ten Sols of France.

One of the Customs observ'd in Sicily, and which appears very ridiculous in France, is, that neither Women nor Men, if they have no Beards upon their Chins, can Lodge in the Inns, unless they be particularly acquainted with some Per∣son of Worth in the place, or without very suf∣ficient and Authentick Certificates. There are also Guards appointed to visit the Inns in the Night time, and to look into the Beds, and see whether there be any Chins without Beards. They likewise seize upon all that are abroad in the Streets Two Hours after Night is shut in,

and they who are so apprehended, are Fin'd, if the cause of their being late out be not suffici∣ent to excuse 'em. This Island is infested with so many Robbers, that 'tis a difficult thing for a Man to stir halfe a League out of the City, without losing his Cloak-bag, if he scape with his Throat. So that the People never Travel by Land but in Caravans, or without good Con∣voys, and you must take a great care too, lest the Convoys allow'd ye be not Thieves them∣selves. There is nothing expos'd to Sale in Si∣cily, either in the Shops or in the Markets, till the Commissaries of the Civil Government have set the price: and it would be an unpardona∣ble Crime for any Merchant or Countryman to sell his Wares or Provision dearer then the sett Rate.

The Sicilians for the most part, and they that inhabit the Coasts of Calabria, wear a Bonnet of Goats-Skin undrest, their Hair being matted or plaited flat behind; A Doublet with great Skirts, neither Band nor Cravatt, their Breeches very strait, a Cloak of the same Stuff which the Chimney-Sweepers in Savoy wear, which they fling under their Left Arm, with a Sword and Pistol by their sides. Their Shooes are made of the Rind of Bacon well Curry'd, which lasts a long time: But the Poor have no more then a bare Sole made of the Bark of a Tree, ty'd about their Feet with Packthread: And as for People of Quality, they wear Pumps after the Spanish fashion.

Palermo is the Metropolis of the Kingdom, an Archiepiscopal See, and the Residence of the

Viceroy, whose Train is more splendid then the King of Spain's. The Air is temperate, the Ha∣ven, the Fountains, and the Magnificence of the Buildings, contribute not a little to render Pa∣lermo a pleasant Habitation; and therefore the Chiefest of the Nobility reside there. In the Great Piazza that faces the Palace, stands the Statue of Philip IV. upon a Pedestal, upon which are represented the Victories of that Mo∣narch, supported by Four Figures representing the Four Virtues, the whole of White Marble. In another Piazza stands a Brass Statue of Charles V. upon a Pedestal of Marble. In the meeting of the new Street and Cassaron street, which are two of the fairest Streets in Palermo, is to be seen the Palace, a noble Fountain; and Four Statues of the King's of Spain, Charles V. Philip II. III. IV. which are the most beautiful Ornaments of the City.

In the Piazza right against the Palace of Ju∣stice stands a Fountain, which deservedly is lookt upon to be the most beautiful in Europe. It consists of several hollow Receptacles, one above another, separated by Galeries, whither you ascend to admire the variety of large Ani∣mals that spout forth Water after different manners. The whole is of Marble, with a great number of Figures of the same Stone.

After that you have seen all that is curious in Palermo, Travellers go to visit Mount Peregrin, at the top of which, after an ascent of Three Miles, you meet with a Cave, almost like that of St. Beaume in Provence, which was the re∣tirement of Sta Rasalia, and 'tis reported that

the Fountain within that Grotto has a peculiar Quality to Heal several Distempers.

Thô the City of Mont Real be not above Four Miles distant from Palermo, however it is an Archiepiscopal See. From thence there is a Prospect of Nine Islands, call'd by the Name of Lipari, which is the name of the most consi∣derable among 'em. Of which two, Vulcano and Stromboli, are not inhabited, because of their continual vomiting forth Flames and Smoak; for which reason they are call'd the Burning Islands of Sicily.

However, these Islands are not to be taken confusedly for Mount Aetna, commonly call'd Mount Gibello, the highest Mountain in Sicily; which thô almost cover'd with Snow, yet conti∣nually vomits forth flames of Fire, like a Glass-house Furnace; and spreads the Ashes of the consum'd Materials with that impetuosity, that the Country is frequently much endamaged thereby: thô if the same Ashes are but mode∣rately scatter'd over the Ground, they enferti∣lize the Earth. The City of Catanea, lying un∣der this Mountain, has suffer'd many Confla∣grations, occasion'd by the sparkles of this Infer∣nal Gulph. Several Persons that have been so curious as to climb to the Top of Mount Gibello, have been either lost in the Snow, or buried in the Ashes, and many times the Flames enforce their way through Chawns and Rifts ne'r known before, with such an amazing noise, as alarms all the Island. Not far from Mount Gibello is the place where some will have it, that Ceres first began to sow Wheat; and they will under∣take

to shew ye the Meadows where Hercules fed his Oxen.

The Lake Naphtica is noted for this, that the stench of the Water is so noisom, that it poisons the adjacent Air, and very much impairs the Health of the neighbouring Inhabitants.

There is another Lake near Castro Giovanni, which is said to have no bottom; 'Tis call'd the Lake of Proserpina, upon a suspition that it was the place where Proserpina was Ravish'd, and carried to the Infernal Regions by her Ra∣visher.

Messina is an Archiepiscopal City, famous for the Haven that belongs to it, near Cape Faro, which makes it a Town of Great Trade, and much frequented by Foreigners. In the Grand Piazza stands a Brass Statue of Philip IV. upon a Horse of the same Metal; the whole Adorn'd with Base-Reliefs, representing his most famous Actions. Over the Door of a Tower near the Metropolitan Church, stands a French Inscri∣ption. Grand-merci a Messina, in remembrance, as they say, that the French began with Messina, when they made themselves Masters of the Island.

There are several other Whirlpools, or Abysses of Water in the Sea adjoyning to Messina, among the rest, Charybdis, Famous among the Latin Poets. This Whirlpool is about Thirty Paces in Diameter; which compass of the Surface is usually cover'd with Froth, Bulrushes, and other foul excrescencies of the Sea, which throw themselves into it, and are swallow'd up by it. Nevertheless, the Mariners of Messina, Sail over

in flat bottom'd Barks, where after several times being whirl'd and turn'd about, they row them∣selves back.

The Tides of Ebb and Flood are so rapid in the Channel that separates Sicily from Italy, that they many times force the Vessels riding there, from their Anchors, let 'em be never so strong; which is the loss of many a Ship.

Saragossa or Syracuse was formerly lookt upon as the largest and most Magnificent City in the Universe. Athens beheld her self abandon'd by the Greatest part of her Inhabitants, who betook themselves to settle at Syracuse: And the most sumptuous Edifices in Rome, derive their chiefest Ornaments from the Spoils of her Structures. The most beautiful Ruin of her Antiquity re∣maining is the Aqueduct, cut out of a Rock, that carries the Water over the Haven, about Ten Miles in length. Without the City is to be seen Arethusa's Fountain that rises in great abundance, out of a Rock by the Sea-side; and they report, that this Water comes from the Holy Land, by a conveyance that runs under the Abysses of the Sea. But the greatest Evidence that they alleadge for it is this, That a Pilgrim one day taking up Water, out of the River Al∣pheus, by chance let his Dish fall into the River, and lost it to his incredible Grief; for that he had hid within it Seven Pistoles for unforeseen occasions. That embarking to return for Eu∣rope, he landed in Sicily, and going to the Foun∣tain Arethusa to Drink, he found his Dish float∣ing upon the Water, which he knew again, not only by the Seven Pistoles, but by several other marks.

Dionysius, the Tyrants Grotto, lies not far di∣stant from Saragossa, much more considerable than any of those about Puzzuolo, For there you may see a whole City cut out of a Rock, with subterraneal Streets, Palaces, Piazza's, and other admirable Structures. But you must have some notable Antiquarie for your guide, that knows all the Turnings and Windings, and be well provided with Matches and Torches.

There are several other Islands between Sicily and Barbary, as Maltha, Gozes, Limosa, Lam∣padousa, &c. but in regard they rather belong to Africa then Europe, I shall say nothing of 'em here. Nevertheless, I cannot forbear observing, that in the last there is a Chappel, where you shall meet with all sorts of Refreshments for Sea faring People, and all that is necessary for Navigation, as Biscuit, Cordage, Anchors, Sails, Oil, Wood, Fish, Stuffs, &c. And all that Sail near that Island, and have occasion for any of those things, goe and fetch 'em from that Chap∣pel, leaving the value in other Commodities, with which their Vessel is best provided. All Nations, even the Turks themselves, goe thither for what they want; and 'tis said, that if they fail to leave a Compensation, their Ships can stir no farther, let the Wind be never so favourable. We are assur'd, that several have known this to be true by many Tryals. However it be, that Chappel is hewen out of a Rock; and some Pa∣ces from thence, there is a Spring of excellent fresh Water, which will keep sweet a long time at Sea.

As for Sardigna, there are not so many Re∣marks to be made upon that Island. All that I can say of it is, that 'tis an Island in the Medi∣terranean Sea, with the Title of a Kingdom, be∣longing to the King of Spain, who Governs it by a Viceroy. The Air is so thick, that for∣merly such persons were banish'd thither, as the State had a mind to be rid of; that there is a Breed of Great Dogs there, bigger then the Dogs in England; and such an infinite number of Rats, that the King of Spain has enjoyn'd all the Owners of Houses, to keep as many Cats as they have Rooms.

The Ancient Sardignians had a Law, which ordain'd, that the Sons should knock out their Parents Brains, when once they came to be Su∣perannuated, for fear the Infirmity of their Minds should incline 'em to commit Faults pre∣judicial to their Families or the Government.

CHAP. XIV. Of the Island of Corse.

THis Island is seated to the North of Sardigna from whence it is separated by a Channel that may be Sail'd over in an hour, and lies be∣tween the 40 and 42 Degree of Latitude, and between the 31 and 32 of Longitude. The lar∣gest extent of it from South to North, is about

40 Leagues, 20 Broad, and in Circuit about Fourscore and Ten. It is said to have been so call'd from a Woman of Liguria, whose Name was Corsa Bubulca, who carried thither a Colo∣nie out of her own Country.

The Island of Corse has belong'd to the Genoe∣ses ever since the year 1559. at what time Henry II. Granted it to 'em, at the request of the Spaniards, after the Battel of St. Quintin. Nevertheless, the People are not pleas'd with their Government; and the Genoeses on the other side, who are afraid of their Revolting, or lest some Foreign Power should make themselves Masters of it, do as much as in them lies to lay it waste; and give out, that the Air is too un∣wholsome for People that are not bred there; Besides that, the Soil is so ungrateful, that it will hardly return the Seed that is sown in it. How∣ever, 'tis certain that this is spoken, either out of Malice or Sloth; for that it brings forth Corn, Wine, and all sorts of Fruits, more then sufficient the Inhabitants; that it produces good Horses, and Timber for Shipping; and that there are in it several Mines of Copper, Lead, &c. Baths and Mineral Fountains; among which, that of Povera in the Province of Ampugnano, cures the Dropsie; Besides that, they fish for Coral upon the Coasts.

Moreover, this Island might be made a place of great Trade; for that there is no want of good and convenient Havens; of which, the chiefest are San Fiorenzo, Ajacho, and Porto Vec∣chio, big enough to contain whole Fleets. The First was formerly Fortifi'd by the French; but

the Genoeses have demolish'd the best Works, having left nothing but the Foundations, which are of Free-stone.

The Corses are good Soldiers, very strong, but ve∣ry slothful, and no less revengeful; so that upon their Death-beds they recommend the revenge of Injuries done 'em to their Kindred. Thô there be Five Bishopricks in the Island, yet there is but one considerable City, which is Bastia, the Metropolis of the Country and Residence of the Governor. There are but Five hundred Men in the Pay of the Republick for security of the whole Island; so that it might be an easie thing to surprize it, especially for those that are strong∣er at Sea then the Genoeses are.

The END.