The strange and dangerous voyage of Captaine Thomas Iames, in his intended discouery of the Northwest Passage into the South Sea VVherein the miseries indured both going, wintering, returning; and the rarities obserued, both philosophicall and mathematicall, are related in this iournall of it. Published by his Maiesties command. To which are added, a plat or card for the sayling in those seas. Diuers little tables of the author's, of the variation of the compasse, &c. VVith an appendix concerning longitude, by Master Henry Gellibrand astronomy reader of Gresham Colledge in London. And an aduise concerning the philosophy of these late discouereyes, by W.W.

The VVintering.

AFter we had haled vp the Boate, we went alongst the breach side in the darke, towards our house, where we made a good fire, and with it, and bread and water, wee thawde and comforted our selues, beginning after that to reason one with another, con∣cerning our Ship. I requir'd that euery one should speak his mind freely. The Carpenter, (especially) was of the opinion, that she was founderd; and would neuer be seruiceable againe. He alledged, that she had so beaten, that it was not possible, but that all her Ioints were loose, and seames open: and that by reason it flowed so little wa∣ter, and no Creeke nor Coue being neere, wherein to bring her aground, he could not deuise how he might come to mend it. Moreouer, her Rudder was lost, and he had no Iron-worke to hang on another. Some alledged, that we had hea∣ued her vp so high vpon the sands, that they thought we should neuer haue her off againe: and that they were assured she was already dockt three foote. Others, that she lay in the Tydes way; and that the Ice might teare her to pieces off the ground: besides which, two of our Ankers we could not now get from vnder the Ice: which when the Ice brake (which would be of a great thickenesse by the Spring) would breake our Ankers to pieces, and then we should haue

no Ankers to bring vs home withall: supposed we got off the ship, & that she proued sound also. I comforted them the best I could with such like words: My Masters and faithfull Companions: be not dismaide for any of these disasters, but let vs put our whole trust in God. It is he that giueth, and he that taketh away: he throwes downe with one hand, and raiseth vp with another. His will be done. If it be our fortunes to end our dayes here, we are as neere heauen, as in England; and we are much bound to God Almighty for gi∣uing vs so large a time of repentance, who as it were dayly calls vpon vs, to prepare our solues for a better life in heauen. I make no doubt, but he will be mercifull to vs, both here on earth, and in his blessed Kingdome: he doth not in the meane time deny, but that we may vse all honest meanes to saue and prolong our naturall liues withall: and in my Iudge∣ment, we are not yet so farre past hope of returning into our natiue Countries, but that I see a faire way by which wee may effect it. Admit the Ship be foundered (which God for∣bid, I hope the best) yet haue those our owne nation, and others, when they haue beene put to these extremities, euen out of the wracke of their lost Ship, built then a Pinnasse, and recouered to their friends againe. If it be obiected, that they haue happened into better Climats, both for temperate∣nesse of the ayre, and for pacificke and open Seas: and pro∣vided withall, of abundance of fresh victuall: yet there is nothing too hard for couragious minds: which hitherto you haue showne, and I doubt not will still doe, to the vtter∣most.

They all protested to worke to the vttermost of their strength, and that they would refuse nothing that I should order them to doe, to the vttermost hazzard of their liues. I thanke them all: and to the Carpenter for his cheerefull vn∣dertaking, I promised to giue him so much plate presently, as should be worth ten pound sterling: and if so be I went to England in the Pinnasse, I would giue her him freely, and fifty pounds in mony ouer and aboue, and would moreouer gratifie all them, that I should see painefull and industrious.

Thus we then resolued, to build vs a new Pinnasse, with the timber we should get vpon the Iland: that so in the spring, if we found not the Ship seruiceable; wee might teare her vp, and planke her with the Ships planks. And so for this night we settled our selues close about the fire: and tooke some rest till day-light.

The thirtieth betimes in the morning,* 1.1 I caused the Chirur∣gion to cut the haire of my head short, and to shaue away all the haire of my face: for that it was become intolerable; and that it would be frozen so great with Ice-sickles.

The like did all the rest:* 1.2 and we fitted our selues to worke. The first thing we were to doe, was to get our clothes and prouisions ashoare: and therefore I deuided the company. The Master and a conuenient company with him, were to goe aboord; and to get things out of Hold. The Cock-swaine with his ging, were to goe in the Boate, to bring and carry things ashoare. My selfe with the rest, to carry it halfe a mile thorow the snow, vnto the place where we intended to build a Store-house; As for the heauier things, we purposed to lay them vpon the Beache. In the afternoone, the winde was at South South-west, and the water veerd to so low an ebbe, that we thought we might get something out of our Hold: we lanched our Boate therefore: and with oares, set thorow the thicke congealed water: It did freeze extreme hard: and I did stand on the shoare with a troubled minde, thinking veri∣ly that with the ebbe the Boate would be carried into the Sea; and that then wee were all lost men. But by Gods assistance they got safely to the Ship and made a fire there, to signifie their arriuall aboord. They fell presently to worke; and got something out of the Hold, vpon the decks: but night com∣ming on, they durst not aduenture to come ashoare, but lay on the bed in the great Cabbin, being almost starued.

The first of December was so cold,* 1.3 that I went the same way ouer the Ice to the Ship, where the Boate had gone ye∣sterday. This day we carried vpon our backs in bundles 500. of our fish: and much of our bedding and clothes; which we were faine to digge out of the Ice.

The second was milde weather:* 1.4 and some of the men go∣ing ouer the Ice, fell in, and very hardly recouered: so that this day we could land nothing, neither by Boate nor backe: I put them therfore to make vs a Store-house ashoare. In the euening, the winde came vp at West: and the Ice did breake and driue out of the Bay: It was very deepe and large Ice: that we much doubted it would haue spoyled the Ship.

The third day,* 1.5 there were diuers great pieces of Ice that came athwart the Ship: and shee stopt them, yet not so, that we could goe ouer them. We found a way for the Boat: but when shee was loaden, shee drew foure foot water, and could not come within a slight-shot of the shoare. The men there∣fore must wade thorow the thicke congealed water; and carry all things out of the Ship vpon their backs. Euery time they waded in the Ice, it so gathered about thē, that they did seeme like a walking piece of Ice, most lamentable to behold. In this extreme cold euening, they cut away as much Ice from about the Boate as they could, and pickt it with hand-spikes out of her, and endeauouring to hoyse her into the Ship. There being small hope, that shee could goe to and againe any more. But vse what meanes they could, shee was so heauy, that they could not hoyse her in: but were faine there to leaue her in the tackles by the Ships side.

The fourth being Sunday,* 1.6 we rested; and performed the Sabbath duties of a Christian.

The fift and sixt were extreme cold:* 1.7 and wee made bags of our store shirts: and in them carried our loose bread ouer the Ice ashoare vpon our backs. We also digged our clothes and new sayles with hand-spikes of iron, out of the Ice: and carried them ashoare, which we dryed by a great fire.

The seuenth day was so extremely cold,* 1.8 that our noses, cheekes, and hands, did freeze as white as paper.

The eighth and ninth,* 1.9 it was extreme cold; and it did snow much, yet we continued our labour; in carrying and rowling things ashoare. In the euening the water raised the Ice very high: and it did breake two thoughts of our Boat: and breake in the side of her: but for that time, we could not helpe it.

The tenth,* 1.10 our Carpenter found timber to make a Keele, and a Sterne for our Pinnace: the rest wrought about our pro∣visions, vntill the 13. day: and that we spent in digging our boate out of the Ice: which we were faine to doe to the ve∣ry Keele: and dig the Ice out of her, and then we got her vp on the Ice: in which doing, many had their noses, cheekes and fingers, frozen as white as paper. The cold now increa∣sed most extremely. By the 19. we could get no more things out of our Hold: but were faine to leaue 5. barrels of Beefe and Porke, all our Beere; and diuers other things: which were all firme frozen in her.

The one and twentieth was so cold,* 1.11 that we could not goe out of the house.

The three and twentieth we went to haue our boate a∣shoare;* 1.12 running her ouer our oares: but by 10. a clocke there came such a thicke fogge, that it was as darke as night. I made them giue ouer, and make what haste we could to the shoare: which we had much adoe to finde, for the time, losing one another. At the last we met all at the house, the miserablest frozen, that can bee conceiued. Vpon di∣vers, had the cold raised blisters as bigge as wall-nuts. This we imagined to come, by reason that they came too hastily to the fire. Our Well was now frozen vp: so that digge as deepe as we could, we can come by no water. Melted snow-water is very vnwholsome: either to drinke or to dresse our victuals. It made vs so short-breathed, that we were scarce able to speake. All our Sacke, Vineger, Oyle, and euery thing else that was liquid, was now frozen as hard as a piece of wood, and we must cut it with a hatchet. Our house was all frozen on the inside, and it froze hard within a yard of the fires side. When I landed first vpon this Iland, I found a spring vnder a hils side: which I then obseruing, had caused some trees to be cut for markes to know the place againe by. It was about three quarters of a mile from our house. I sent 3. of our men which had beene formerly with me, thither vpon the 24. These wading thorow the snow, at last found the place, and shoueling away the snow, they made way to

the very head of it. They found it spring very strongly: and brought me a Can of it, for which I was right ioyfull. This spring continued all the yeere; and did not freeze: but that we could breake the Ice and come to it. We labor'd very hard, these three or foure dayes, to get wood to the house, which we found to be very troublesome, through the deepe snow.

Wee then settled our bedding and prouisions, pro∣viding to keepe Christmas day holy: which we solemnized in the ioyfullest manner we could: So likewise did we Saint Iohns day: vpon which we named the wood we did winter in, in memory of that Honourable Knight Sir Iohn Winter, Winters Forrest. And now in stead of a Christmas Tale, I will here describe the house that we did liue in, with those ad∣ioyning.

When I first resolued to build a house, I chose the most war∣mest and conuenientest place and the neerest the Ship withall. It was amongst a tuft of thicke trees, vnder a South banke; about a flight-shot from the Seas side. True it is, that at that time we could not digge into the ground, to make vs a Hole or Caue in the earth, (which had been the best way) because we found water within 2. foote digging: and therefore that proiect fail'd. It was a white light sand; so that we could by no meanes make vp a mud-wall. As for stones, there were none neere vs: which, moreouer, were all now couered with the snow. We had no boords for such a purpose; and there∣fore, we must doe the best we could, with such materials as we had about vs.

The house was square; about 20. foote euery way: as much namely, as our mayne-Course could well couer: first we droue strong stakes into the earth, round about: which we watteled with boughes, as thicke as might be, beating them downe very close. This our first worke was sixe foote high on both sides, but at the ends, almost vp to the very top. There we left 2. holes, for the light to come in at: and the same way the smoke did vent out also. Moreouer, I caused at both ends, three rowes of thicke bush trees: to be stucke

vp, as close together as mought be possibly. Then at a distance from the house, we cut downe trees: proportioning them into lengths of sixe foote; with which we made a pile on both sides, sixe foote thicke, and sixe foote high: but at both ends, tenne foote high, and sixe foote thicke: We left a little low doore to creepe into; and a portall before that, made with piles of wood, that the wind might not blow into it. We next of all fastned a rough tree aloft ouer all: vpon which we laid our rafters; and our Mayne Course o∣uer those againe: which lying thwart-wayes ouer all, did reach downe to the very ground, on either side. And this was the Fabricke of the out-side of it. On the inside, we made fast our bonnet sayles, round about. Then we droue in stakes and made vs bed-stead frames; about three sides of the house: which bed-steads were double, one vnder an∣other: the lower-most, being a foote from the ground: These, we first fild with boughes, then we layd some spare sayles on that, and then our bedding and clothes. We made a Hearth or Causie in the middle of the house, and on it, made our fire: some boords wee layd round about our Hearth, to stand vpon: that the cold dampe should not strike vp into vs. With our Wast-clothes, we made vs Ca∣nopies and Curtaines: others did the like with our small sayles. Our second house was not past 20. foote distant from this, and made for the watteling much after the same manner, but it was lesse, and couered with our fore-Course: It had no pyles on the South side: but in liew of that, we pilde vp all our Chests, on the inside: and indeed the reflexe of the heate of the fire against them, did make it warmer then the Mansion house. In this house, we drest our victuall: and the subordinate crue did refresh themselues all day in it. A third house, (which was our store-house) we likewise made, some twenty paces off from this; for feare of firing. This house was onely a rough tree fastened aloft: with raf∣ters layd from it to the ground, and couered ouer with our new suite of sailes. On the inside, we had laid small trees, and couered them ouer with boughes: and so stor'd vp our

Bread, and Fish in it; about two foote from the ground: the better to preserue them. Other things lay more care∣lessely.

Long before Christmas, our mansion house was couered thicke ouer with Snow: almost to the very roofe of it. And so likewise was our second house: but our Store-house, all ouer: by reason we made no fire in it. Thus we seemed to liue in aheape, and Wildernesse of Snow; forth adores we could not go, but vpon the snow: in which we made vs paths middle deepe in some places: and in one speciall place, the length of tenne steps. To doe this, we must shouell away the Snow first; and then by treadding, make it something hard vnderfoote: The Snow in this path, was a full yard thicke vnder vs. And this was our best gallery for the sicke-men: and for mine owne ordinary walking. And both houses and walkes, we did daily accommodate more and more, and make fitter for our vses.

The twenty seuenth,* 1.13 we got our Boate ashore: and fetcht vp some of our prouisions from the beach side into the Store-house: and so by degrees did we with therest of our prouisions: with extremity of cold and labour, making way with shouels thorow the deepe Snow; euen from the Sea-side vnto our Store-house. And thus concluded we the old yeere. 1631.

Ianuary, 1632.

The first of Ianuary (and for the most part all the moneth) was extreme cold.

The sixth,* 1.14 I obserued the latitude, with what exactnesse I could (it being very cleere Sun-shine weather) which I found to be 51. 52. This difference, is by reason that here is a great Refraction.

The one and twentieth,* 1.15 I obserued the Sunne to rise like an Ouall, alongst the Horizon: I cald three or foure to see it, the better to confirme my Iudgement: and we all agreed, that it was twice as long as it was broad. We plainely per∣ceiued

withall, that by degrees as it gate vp higher, it also recouered his roundnesse.

The sixe and twentieth,* 1.16 I obserued, when the Easterne edge of the Moone did touch the Planet Mars, the Lions heart was then in the East quarter 21. 45. aboue the Hori∣zon: but all this was not done with that exactnesse, that I haue done other obseruations.

The thirtieth and one and thirtieth,* 1.17 there appeared in the beginning of the night, more Starres in the firma∣ment, then euer I had before seene by two thirds. I could see the Cloud in Cancer full of small Starres: and all the via lactea, nothing but small Starres: and amongst the Plyades, a great many small Starres. About tenne a Clocke, the Moone did rise; and then a quarter of them was not to be seene. The wind for the most part of this month, hath beene Nor∣therly, and very cold: the warmest of which time wee imployed our selues in fetching Wood, working vpon our Pinnasse and other things that happened. In the beginning of this moneth, the Sea was all firmely frozen ouer, so that we could see no water any way. I hope it will not seeme tedi∣ous to the Readers, if I here deliuer mine owne opinion, how this abundance of Ice comes to be ingendered.

The Land that encircles this great Bay, (which lyes in a broken Irregular forme, making many little shoald Bayes, and Guts, being, moreouer, full of Ilands and dry sands) is for the most part low and flat, and hath flat shoalds adioy∣ning to it, halfe a mile or a mile, that are dry at low water. Now you must know, that it flowes halfe tyde (as I haue often experienced) that is, from whence the flood commeth, the water thither returneth, two houres before it be high water, or full Sea. It seldome raines, after the middle of September: but snowes: and that Snow will not melt on the Land nor Sands; At low water when it snowes (which it doth very often) the sands are all couered ouer with it; which the halfe tyde carries officiously (twice in twentie foure houres) into the great Bay, which is the common Ren∣dezvous of it, Euery low water, are the sands left cleere, to ga∣ther

more to the increase of it. Thus doth it daily gather to∣gether in this manner, till the latter end of October, and by that time hath it brought the Sea to that coldnesse, that as it snows, the snow will lye vpon the water in flakes without changing his colour; but with the winde is wrought toge∣ther; and as the winter goes forward, it begins to freeze on the surface of it, two or three inches or more in one night: which being carried with the halfe tyde, meets with some obstacle, (as it soone doth) and then it crumples and so runnes vpon it selfe, that in a few houres it will be fiue or sixe foote thicke. The halfe tyde still flowing, carries it so fast away, that by December it is growne to an infinite multiplication of Ice. And thus by this storing of it vp, the cold gets the pre∣domination in the Sea (which also furnisheth the Springs and water, in the low flat lands) that it cooles it like it selfe. This may appeare by our experience, though in all this, I free∣ly submit my selfe vnto the better learned. Our men found it more mortifying cold to wade thorow the water in the be∣ginning of Iune when the Sea was all full of Ice; then in December, when it was increasing. Our Well, moreouer, out of which we had water in December, we had none in Iuly.

The ground at ten foote deepe, was frozen. The quantitie of the Ice, may very easily be made to appeare, by Mathema∣ticall Demonstration: and yet I am not of the opinion, that the Bay doth freeze all ouer. For the one and twentieth, the winde blowing a storme at North, we could perceiue the Ice to rise something in the Bay.

February, 1632.

The cold was as extreme this moneth, as at any time we had felt it this yeere: and many of our men complained of infirmities. Some, of sore mouthes; all the teeth in their heads being loose, their gums swolne, with blacke rotten flesh; which must euery day be cut away. The paine was so sore on them, that they could not eate their ordinary meat. Others complained of paine in their heads, and their brests: Some of weakenesse in their backs; Others of aches in their

thighs and knees: and others, of swellings in their legges. Thus were two thirds of the company, vnder the Chirurgi∣ons hand. And yet neuerthelesse, they must worke daily; and goe abroad to fetch wood, and timber; notwithstanding the most of thē had no shooes to put on. Their shooes, vpon their comming to the fire, out of the snow, were burnt and scorcht vpon their feete: and our store-shooes were all sunke in the Ship. In this necessitie they would make this shift: To bind clouts about their feet, and endeauoured by that poore helpe, the best they could to performe their duties. Our Carpenter likewise is by this time falne sicke to our great discomforts. I practised some obseruations by the rising and setting of the Sunne, calculating the time of his rising and setting, by very true running glasses. As for our Clocke and Watch, notwith∣standing we still kept them by the fires side, in a Chest wrapt in clothes, yet were they so frozen, that they could not goe. My obseruations by these Glasses, I compared with the Stars comming to the Meridian. By this meanes wee found the Sunne to rise twentie minutes before it should: and in the euening to remaine aboue the Horizon twentie minutes (or thereabouts) longer then it should doe. And all this by rea∣son of the Refraction.

Since now I haue spoken so much of the cold, I hope it will not be too coldly taken, if I in a few words make it someway to appeare vnto our Readers.

Wee made three differences of the cold: all according to the places. In our house, In the woods: and in the open Ayer, vpon the Ice, in our going to the ship.

For the last, it would be sometimes so extreme, that it was not indurable: no Cloathes were proofe against it; no motion could resist it. It would, moreouer, so freeze the haire on our eye-lids, that we could not see: and I verily be∣leeue, that it would haue stifled a man, in a very few houres: we did daily find by experience, that the cold in the Woods would freeze our faces, or any part of our flesh that was bare; but it was yet not so mortifying as the other. Our house on the out-side, was couered two thirdparts with Snow; and on

the inside frozen, & hang with Icesickles. The Cloathes on our beds would be couered with hoare frost: which in this little habitacle, was not farre from the fire. But let vs come a little neerer to it. The Cookes Tubs, wherein he did water his meate, standing about a yard from the fire, and which he did all day plye with melted Snow-water: yet in the night season, whilst he slept but one watch, would they be firme frozen to the very bottome. And therefore was hee faine to water his meate in a brasse Kettle close adioyning to the fire; and I haue many times both seene and felt by putting my hand into it; that side which was next the fire, was very warme, and the other side an inch frozen; I leaue the rest to our Cooke; who will almost speake miracles of the cold. The Surgeon, who had hung his bottles of sirrops, and other liquid things as conueniently as he could to preserue them, had them all frozen: our Vineger, Oyle, and Sacke, which we had in small Caske in the house, was all firme frozen. It may further in generall be conceiued, that in the beginning of Iune, the Sea was not broken vp: and the ground was yet frozen, and thus much wee found by experience, in the bu∣rying of our men: in setting vp the Kings Standard towards the latter end of Iune: and by our Well, at our comming away in the beginning of Iuly: at which time vpon the land for some other reasons, it was very hote weather.

March, 1632.

The first of this moneth being Saint Dauids day,* 1.18 we kept Holyday, and solemnized it in the manner of the Ancient Bri∣taines: praying for his Highnesse happinesse Charles Prince of Wales.

The fifteenth,* 1.19 one of our men thought he had seene a Deere: whereupon he with two or three more desired that they might go to see if they could take it: I gaue them leaue: but in the Euening they returned so disabled with cold, which did rise vp in blisters vnder the soales of their feete and vpon their legges, to the bignesse of Walnuts; that they

could not recouer their former estate (which was not very well) in a fortnight after.

The sixe and twentieth,* 1.20 three more desire that they also might goe out to try their fortunes: but they returned worse disabled, and euen almost stifled with the cold.

This Euening, the Moone rose in a very long Ovale alongst the Horizon.

By the last of this moneth, the Carpenter had set vp 17. ground timbers: and 34. Staddles; and (poore man) hee proceedeth the best he can, though he be faine to be led vnto his labour.

In briefe, all this moneth hath beene very cold. The wind about the N. W. The snow as deepe as it hath beene all this winter; But to answer an obiection that may be made, You were in a wood (may some men say vnto vs) and therefore you might make fire enough to keepe you from the cold. It is true, we were in a wood; and vnder a South-banke too: or otherwise, we had all starued. But I must tell you with∣all; how difficult it was to haue wood in a wood: And first, I will make a muster of the tooles we had: The Car∣penter in his Chest had 2. Axes indeed: but one of them was spoyl'd in cutting downe wood to pile about our house be∣fore Christmas; When we came first a land, we had but two whole hatchets, which in a few dayes broke 2. inches be∣low the Sockets. I cald for 3. of the Coopers hatchets: The Carpenters axe and the Coopers best hatchet I caused to be lockt vp: The other 2. hatchets to be new helu'd, and the blades of the 2. broken hatchets, to be put into a cleft piece of wood, and then to be bound about with rope yame as fast as might be: which must be repaired euery day. And these were all the cutting tooles we had: moreouer the 6. of February the Carpenter had out his best axe about something, and one of the company in his absence, by his vndiscreete handling of it, brake that too, two inches below the Socket: we must henceforth order these pieces of tooles the best we could: wherefore I gaue order, that the Carpenter should haue one of the Coopers hatchets: they that lookt for tim∣ber

in the woods, the other: and they that cut downe wood to burne, were to haue the 2. pieces. And this was before Christmas.

The three that were appointed to looke crooked timber, must stalke and wade, (sometimes on all foure) thorow the snow: and where they saw a tree likely to fit the mould: they must first heaue away the snow, and then see if it would fit the mould: if not, they must seeke further: if it did fit the mould; then they must make a fire to it, to thawe it: otherwise it could not be cut. Then cut it downe, and fit it to the length of the mould: and then with other helpe, get it home: a mile thorow the snow.

Now for our firing. We could not burne greene wood, it would so smoke, that it was not indurable: yea the men had rather starue without in the cold, then sit by it. As for the dry wood, that also was bad enough in that kinde: for it was full of Turpentine, and would send forth such a thicke smoke, that would make abundance of soote: which made vs all looke, as if we had beene free of the company of Chimney-Sweepers. Our cloathes were quite burnt in pieces about vs: and for the most part, we were all without shooes: But to our Fuellers againe. They must first (as the former) goe vp and downe in the snow: till they saw a standing dry tree: for that the snow couered any that were fallen. Then they must hacke it downe with their pieces of hatchets: and then o∣thers must carry it home thorow the snow. The boyes with Cuttleasses, must cut boughes for the Carpenter: for euery piece of timber that he did worke, must first be thaw'd in the fire: and he must haue a fire by him, or he could not worke. And this was our continuall labour, throughout the forementioned cold: besides our tending of the sicke, and o∣ther necessary imployments.

Aprill. 1632.

The first of this moneth being Easter-day,* 1.21 we solem∣nized as religiously as God did giue vs grace. Both this

day and the 2. following Holy-dayes were extreme cold: And now sitting all about the fire, we reasoned and conside∣red together vpon our estate; We had 5. men (whereof the Carpenter was one:) not able to doe any thing. The Boate∣swayne and many more, were very infirme: and of all the rest, we had but 5. that could eate of their ordinary allow∣ance. The time and season of the yeere came forwards apace: and the cold did very little mitigate. Our Pinnace was in an indifferent forwardnesse: but the Carpenter grew worse and worse: The Ship (as we then thought) lay all full of solid Ice: which was weight enough to open the seames of any new and sound vessell: especially of one that had layne so long vpon the ground as she had done. In briefe, after ma∣ny disputations, and laying open of our miserable and hope∣lesse estates, I resolued vpon this course: that notwithstan∣ding it was more labour, and though we declined, weaker still and weaker: yet that with the first warme weather, we would begin to cleere the Ship: that so we might haue the time before vs, to thinke of some other course. This being ordered, we lookt to those tooles we had, to digge the Ice out of her: we had but 2. Iron barres ashoare: the rest were sunke in the Ship: and one of them was broken too. Well! we fell to fitting of those barres, and of 4. broken shouels that we had: with which we intended (as after we did) to digge the Ice out of her: and to lay that Ice on a heape, vpon the Lar-boord bowe, and to sinke downe that Ice to the ground so fast, that it should be a Barricadoe to vs, when the Ice brake vp; which we feared would teare vs all to pieces.

The 6. was the deepest snow we had all this yeere:* 1.22 which fild vp all our pathes and wayes, by which we were vsed to goe vnto the wood: This snow was something moyster and greater, then any we had had all this yeere: for formerly it was as dry as dust; and as small as sand, and would driue like dust with the winde.

The weather continued with this extremitie,* 1.23 vntill the 15. at which time our spring was harder frozen, then it had

beene all the yeere before. I had often obserued the difference betwixt cleere weather and mistie Refractious weather: in this manner. From a little hill which was neere adioyning to our house; in the cleerest weather, when the Sunne shone with all the puritie of ayre, that I could conceiue: we could not see a little Iland; which bare off vs South South-east, some foure leagues off: but if the weather were mistie (as afore∣said) then we should often see it, from the lowest place. This little Iland I had seene the last yeere, when I was on Danby Iland:* 1.24 The 13. I tooke the height of it instrumentally; stan∣ding neere the Seas side: which I found to be 34. minutes: the Sunne being 28. degrees high. This showes, how great a Refraction here is. Yet may this be noted by the way; That I haue seene the land eleuated, by reason of the refractious ayre; and neuerthelesse, the Sunne hath risen perfect round.

The sixteenth was the most comfortable Sun-shine day,* 1.25 that came this yeere: and I put some to cleere off the snow from the vpper decks of the Ship; and to cleere and dry the great Cabbin, by making fire in it. Others I put to digge downe thorow the Ice, to come by our Anker, that was in shoald water, which the 17. in the afternoone we got vp,* 1.26 and carried aboord.

The eighteenth,* 1.27 I put them to digge downe thorow the Ice, neere the place where we thought our Rudder might be. They digged downe, and came to water: but no hope of fin∣ding of it: we had many doubts, that it mought be sanded: or that the Ice might haue carried it away already, the last yeere: or if we could not recouer it by digging before the Ice brake vp, and droue, there was little hope of it.

The nineteenth wee continued our myning worke a∣boord the Shippe;* 1.28 and returned in the Euening to Sup∣per ashoare: This Day, The Master and two others, desired that they might lye aboord: which I condiscen∣ded to: for indeed they had laine very discommodiously all the winter, and with sicke bed-fellowes: as I my selfe had done; euery one in that kinde taking their fortunes. By lying aboord, they auoyded the hearing of the misera∣ble

groanings: and lamenting of the sicke men all night long: enduring (poore soules) intolerable torments.

By the one and twentieth,* 1.29 we had laboured so hard, that we came to see a Caske; and could likewise perceiue that there was some water in the Hold. This we knew could not be thawed water; because it did still freeze night and day very hard aboord the Ship, and one the land also.

By the three and twentieth in the Euening,* 1.30 wee came to pierce the forementioned Caske: and found it was full of ve∣ry good Beere, which did much reioyce vs all: especially the sickemen, notwithstanding that it did taste a little of bulge∣water. By this we at that time thought that the holes we had cut to sinke the Ship, were frozen, and that this water had stood in the Ship all the Winter.

The foure and twentieth,* 1.31 we went betimes in the mor∣ning to worke: but found that the water was risen aboue the Ice where we had left work, about two foot: for that the wind had blowne very hard at North, the night before. In the morning, the wind came about South, and blew hard, and although we had little reason for it; we yet expected a low∣er veere of the water. I there vpon put them to worke on the outside of the Ship: that we might come to the lower hole, which we had cut in the Sterne-Shootes. With much labour by night, we digged downe thorow the Ice to it; and found it vnfrozen (as it had bin all the Winter) and to our great comforts, we found that on the inside, the water was ebd euen with the hole: and that on the outside, it was ebd a foot lower. Hereupon I made a shot-boord to be naild on it: and to be made as tight as might be, to try if the water came in any other way. To the other two holes, we had digged on the inside: and found them frozen? Now I did this betimes, that if we found the Ship foundered, we might resolue of some course to saue, or prolong our liues, by getting to the maine before the Ice were broken vp: for, as for our Boate, it was too little, and bulged, besides that. Our Car∣penter was by this time past hope: and therefore little hope had we of our Pinnasse. But which was worst of all, we

had not foure men able to trauell through the Snow ouer the Ice, and in this miserable estate were we at this present.

The 25. we satisfied our longing:* 1.32 for the winde now com∣ming about Northerly, the water rose by the Ships side (where we had digged downe) a foot and more aboue the Hold: and yet did not rise within boord. This did so incourage vs, that we fell very lustily to digging, and to heaue out the Ice, out of the ship. I put the Cooke and some others, to thaw the pumps: who by continuall powring of hot water into them; by the 27. in the morning they had cleered one of them: which we say-ing, found that it did deliuer water very suffi∣ciently. Thus we fell to pumping: and hauing cleered two foot water, we then left to haue a second tryall. Continuing our worke thus,* 1.33 in digging the Ice; by the 28. we had clee∣red our other pumpe: which we also found to deliuer wa∣ter very well: We found likewise, that the water did not rise any thing, in Hold.

The 29. it rained all day long,* 1.34 a sure signe to vs, that win∣ter was broken vp.

The 30. wee were betimes aboord at our worke:* 1.35 which day,* 1.36 and the one and thirtieth, were very cold, with snow and haile: which did pinch our sicke men more then any time this yeere. This euening being May Euen; we returned late from our worke to our house: and made a good fire, and chose Ladies, and did ceremoniously weare their names in our Caps: endeauouring to reuiue our selues by any meanes. And because you heare vs in this merry humour; I will make knowne to you what good cheere we kept at Christmas and Easter: and how we had dieted our selues all the winter.

At our comming foorth of England, we were stored with all sort of Sea prouisions: as Beefe, Porke, Fish, &c. but now that we had little hope of refreshing, our Cooke did order it in this manner.

The Beefe which was to serue on Sunday-night to Supper; he did boyle on Saterday-night, in a Kettle full of water, with a quart of Oaterneale, about an houre: Then taking the Beefe out, he boyled the rest till it came to halfe the quantitie: And

this we called porridge: which with bread we did eate, as hot as we could: and after this we had our ordinary of fish. Sunday dinner, wee had Porke and Pease: and at night the former boyled Beefe made more porridge. In this manner our Tuesdayes Beefe was boyled on the Munday nights: and the Thursdayes, vpon the Wednesdayes. And thus all the weeke (except Friday night) we had some warme thing in our bellies euery supper. And (surely) this did vs a great deale of good. But soone after Christmas, many of vs fell sicke, and had sore mouthes: and could neither eate Beefe, Porke, Fish, nor Porridge. Their dyet was onely this: They would pound Bread, or Oatmeale in a morter, to meale: then fry it in a frying panne, with a little oyle, and so eate it. Some would boyle Pease to a soft paste, and feed as well as they could, vpon that. For the most part of the winter, water was our drinke. In the whole winter, we tooke not aboue a doozen Foxes: many of which would be dead in the traps, two or three dayes, oftentimes; and then when the blood was settled, they would be vnwholesome. But if we tooke one aliue, that had not bin long in the trap, him we boyled, and made broth for the weakest sicke men of him: the flesh of it being soft boyled they did eate also.

Some white partridges we kild: but not worth the men∣tioning towards any refreshing.

We had three sorts of sickemen. Those that could not moue nor turne themselues in their Beds, who must be ten∣ded like an Infant. Others that were as it were creepled with scuruy Aches. And others lastly, that were something better. Most of all had sore mouthes. You may now aske me, how these infirme men could worke? I will tell you: Our Surgeon (which was diligent, and a sweet-conditioned man, as euer I saw) would be vp betimes in the mornings; and whilest he did picke their Teeth, and cut away the dead flesh from their Gummes, they would bathe their owne thighes, knees, and legges. The manner whereof way this: There was no tree, bud, nor herbe; but we made tryall of it: and this being first boyled in a Kettle, and then put in a small

Tubs, and Basons: they put it vnder them, and couering themselues with Cloathes vpon it; this would so mollifie the grieued parts, that although, when they did rise out of their Beds, they would be so crippled, that they could scarce stand: yet after this done halfe an houre, they would be able to goe (and must goe) to wood, thorow the Snow, to the Ship, and about their other businesse. By night, they would be as bad againe: and then they must bee bathed, anoynted, and their mouthes againe drest, before they went to Bed. And with this dyet, and in this manner, did we goe thorow our miseries.

I euer doubted, that we should be weakest in the Spring; and therefore had I reserued a Tun of Alegant Wine vnto this time. Of this, by putting seuen parts of water, to one of wine, we made some weake Beuerage: which (by rea∣son that the wine by being frozen, had lost his Vertue) was little better then water. The sicker sort had a Pint of Ale∣gant a day, by it selfe; and of such poore Aqua vitae too, as we had, they had a little dramme allowed them next their hearts euery morning; and thus wee made the best vse of what we had, according to the seasons.

May, 1632.

The first,* 1.37 we went aboord betimes, to heaue out the Ice.

The second,* 1.38 it did snow and blow, and was so cold, that we were faine to keepe house all day. This vnexpected cold at this time of the yeere did so vexe our sicke men; that they grew worse and worse: we cannot now take them out of their beds, but they would swound: and we had much adoe, to fetch life in them.

The third,* 1.39 those that were able, went aboord betimes to heaue out the Ice. The Snow was now melted in many pla∣ces vpon the Land, and stood in plashes: and now there came some Cranes, and Geese to it.

The fourth,* 1.40 while the rest wrought aboord, I and the Surgeon went with a couple of pieces, to see if we could

kill any of these fowle for our sicke men, but neuer did I see such wild-fowle: They would not indure to see any thing mooue. Wherefore we returned within 2. houres, not being able to indure any longer stalking thorow the snow, and the wet plashes. I verily thought that my feet and legs would haue fallen off, they did so torment me with aking.

The 6. Iohn Wardon,* 1.41 the Master of my Ships chiefe Mate dyed, whom we buried in the Euening (in the most Chri∣stian-like manner we could) vpon the top of a bare hill of sand: which we cald Brandon Hill.

The weather continued very cold: freezing so hard in a night, that it would beare a man.

By the 9. we were come to,* 1.42 and got vp our fiue barrels of Beefe and Porke, and had found 4. Buts of Beere, and one of Cydar, which God had preserued for vs: It had layne vn∣der water all the winter; yet we could not perceiue that it was any thing the worse. God make vs euer thankefull for the comfort it gaue vs.

The 10. it did snow and blow so cold,* 1.43 that we could not stirre out of the house: yet neuerthelesse, by day the snow vanisheth away apace on the land.

The 11. we were aboord betimes,* 1.44 to heaue out Ice. By the 12. at night, we had cleered out all the Ice, out of the Hold: and found likewise our store-shooes which had layne soakt in the water all the winter: but we dried them by the fire, and fitted our selues with them. We strooke againe our Cables into the Hold; there stowd we a But of Wine also, which had beene all the Winter on the vpper decke, and con∣tinued as yet, all firme frozen. We fitted the Ship also: ma∣king her ready to sinke her againe, when the Ice brake vp. We could hitherto find no defect in her: and therefore well hoped, that she was stanche. The Carpenter, neuerthelesse, did earnestly argue to the contrary: alleadging, that now she lay on the ground, in her Docke; and that the Ice had fild her defects: and that the Ice was the thing that kept out the water: but when she should come to labour in the sea; then doubtlesse, she would open. And indeed we could

now see quite through her seames, betwixt wind and water. But that which did trouble vs as ill as all this, was the losse of her Rudder: and that she now lay in the very strength of the Tyde: which, when euer the Ice droue, might teare her to pieces. But we still hoped the best.

The 13.* 1.45 being the Sabbath Day, we solemnized; giuing God thankes for those hopes and comforts we dayly had: The weather by day-time was pretty and warme: but it did freeze by night: yet now we could see some bare patches of land.

The 14.* 1.46 we began a new sort of worke. The Boate∣swaine and a conuenient number sought ashoare the rest of our Rigging: which was much spoyld by pecking of it out of the Ice: and this they now fell to fitting, and to seruing of it. I set the Cooper to fit our Caske, although (poore man) he was very infirme: my intent being, to passe some Cables vnder the Ship, and so to Buoy her vp with these Caske; if otherwise we could not get her off. Some others, I ordered to goe see, if they could kill some wild-fowle for our sicke men: who now grew worse and worse. And this is to be remembred, that we had no shot, but what we did make of the Aprons of our Gunnes and some old pewter that I had: for the Carpenters-sheet-lead, we durst not vse.

The 15. I manured a little patch of ground,* 1.47 that was bare of snow; and sowed it with Peason: hoping to haue some of the hearbs of them shortly, to eate: for as yet we can finde no greene thing to comfort vs.

The 18. our Carpenter William Cole dyed,* 1.48 a man general∣ly bemoaned of vs all: asmuch for his innate goodnesse, as for the present necessity we had of a man of his quality. He had indured a long sicknesse, with much patience, and made a very godly end. In the Euening, we buried him by Master Wardon: accompanied with as many as could goe: for 3. more of our principall men, lay then expecting a good houre. And now were we in the most miserable estate, that we were in all the voyage. Before his extreme weaknesse, he had brought the Pinnace to that passe, that she was ready

to be boulted and trenneld; and to be ioyn'd together to re∣ceiue the planke: so that we were not so discouraged by his death, but that we did hope of our selues to finish her: if the Ship proved vnseruiceable.

This our Pinnace was 27. foot by the Keele, 10. foot by the Beame, and 5. foot in Hold: she had 17. ground tim∣bers, 34. principall Staddles, and 8. short Staddles. He had contriued Her with a round sterne, to saue labour: and in∣deed she was a well proportioned Vessell. Her burthen was 12. or 14. Tunne.

In the Euening, the Master of our Ship, after buriall re∣turning aboord Ship, and looking about her: discouered some part of our Gunner; vnder the Gun-roome ports. This man, we had committed to the Sea at a good distance from the Ship, and in deep water, neere 6. moneths before.

The 19. in the morning,* 1.49 I sent men to dig him out, he was fast in the Ice, his head downewards, and his heele vp∣ward, for he had but one legge; and the plaster was yet at his wound: In the afternoone, they had digd him cleere out: after all which time, he was as free from noysomenesse, as when we first committed him to the Sea. This alteration had the Ice and water, and time onely wrought on him: that his flesh would slip vp and downe vpon his bones, like a gloue on a mans hand. In the Euening we buried him by the others. This day, one George Vgganes (who could handle a toole best of vs all) had indifferent well repaired out boate: and so we ended this mournefull weeke. The snow was by this time prettily well wasted in the woods: and we hauing a high tree, on the highest place of the Iland, which we called our watch-tree; from the top of it we might see into the sea, but found no appearance of breaking vp yet.

This 20. being Whit-Sunday,* 1.50 we sadly solemnized, and had some taste of the wilde-fowle: but not worth the writing.

The one and twentieth,* 1.51 was the warmest Sunne-shine-day, that came this yeere. I sent 2. a-fowling: and my selfe ta∣king the Master, the Surgeon, and one more, with our pieces

and our Dogs, we went into the woods to see what com∣fort wee could finde. Wee wandred from the house eight miles; and searcht with all diligence: but returned comfort∣lesse, not an herbe nor leafe eatable, that we could finde. Our Fowlers had as bad successe. In the woods, wee found the Snow partly wasted away, so that it was passable. The ponds were almost vnthawd: but the Sea from any place we could see all firme frozen.

The snow doth not melt away here with the Sunne or raine; and so make any land-floods; as in England: but it is exhaled vp by the Sunne, and suckt full of holes, like honey∣combs: so that the sand whereon it lyes, will not be at all wetted. The like obseruation wee also had: that let it raine euer so much, you shall see no land-floods after it.

The two and twentieth,* 1.52 we went aboord the Ship: and found that shee had made so much water, that it was now ri∣sen aboue the ballast, which made vs doubt againe of her soundnesse. We fell to pumping, and pumpt her quite dry. And now by day sometimes, we haue such hot gloomes, that we cannot endure in the Sunne: and yet in the night it would freeze very hard. This vnnaturalnesse of the season, did tor∣ment our men, that they now grew worse and worse daily.

The three and twentieth,* 1.53 our Boat-swayne (a painefull man) hauing beene long sicke, which he had heartily resi∣sted, was taken with such a painefull ache in one of his thighs; that we verily thought he would haue presently dyed. He kept his bed all day in great extremitie: and it was a maxime amongst vs; that if any one kept his bed two dayes, he could rise no more. This made euery man to striue to keepe vp, for life.

The foure and twentieth was very warme Sun-shine:* 1.54 and the Ice did consume by the shores side, and crackt all ouer the Bay, with a fearefull noyse. About three in the afternoone, we could perceiue the Ice with the ebbe to driue by the Ship. Whereupon I sent two with all speed vnto the Master, with order: to beate out the hole, and to sinke the Ship: as like∣wise to looke for the Rudder, betwixt the Ice. This he pre∣sently

performed: and a happy fellow, one Dauid Hammon, pecking betwixt the Ice, strooke vpon it, and it came vp with his lance: who crying that he had found it, the rest came and got it vp on the Ice, and so into the Ship. In the meane space, with the little drift that the Ice had, it began to rise and mount into high heaps against the shoald shoares, and rocks: and likewise against the heape of Ice, which we had put for a Barricado to our Ship: but with little harme to vs. Yet we were faine to cut away 20. faddome of Cable which was frozen in the Ice. After an houre, the Ice settled againe, as not hauing any vent outwards. Oh! this was a ioyfull day to vs all: and we gaue God thanks for the hopes we had of it.

The fiue and twentieth was a fine warme day;* 1.55 and with the ebbe, the Ice did driue against the Ship, and shake her shrowdly.

The sixe and twentieth,* 1.56 I tooke the Chirurgion with mee, and went againe to wander the woods: and went to that Bay, where last yeere wee had lost our man Iohn Barton. But we could finde no signe of him, nor of other reliefe.

By the eight and twentieth it was pretty and cleere,* 1.57 betwixt the Ship and the shoare, and I hoped the Ice would no more dangerously oppresse vs. Wherefore I caused the lower hole to be firmely stopt: the water then remaining three foot, a∣boue the Ballast.

The nine and twentieth,* 1.58 being Prince Charles his birth day; we kept Holy-day, and display'd his Maiesties Colours: both aland and aboord; and named our habitation Charles Towne; by contraction Charlton: and the Iland, Charlton Iland.

The thirtieth we lanched our Boate;* 1.59 and had intercourse sometimes betwixt the Ship and the shoare by Boat: which was newes to vs.

The last of this moneth, we found on the Beach some Vetches, to appeare out of the ground; which I made the men to pick vp, and to boyle for our sicke men.

This day, we made an end of fitting all our Rigging and Sayles: and it being a very hot day, we did dry and new make our Fish in the Sunne: and ayred all our other prouisions.

There was not a man of vs at present, able to eate of our salt prouisions, but my selfe and the Master of my Ship. It may be here remembred, that all this Winter wee had not beene troubled with any rhumes, nor flegmaticall diseases. All this moneth the winde hath beene variable, but for the most part Northerly.

Iune. 1632.

The foure first dayes, it did snow, haile, and blow very hard; and was so cold, that the Ponds of water did freeze o∣uer: and the water in our Cans did freeze in the very house: our clothes also that had beene washed and hung out to dry, did not thaw all day.

The fift,* 1.60 it continued blowing very hard in the broad side of the Ship: which did make her swag and wallow in her Docke for all shee was sunken: which did much shake her. The Ice withall did driue against her, and gaue her many fearefull blowes. I resolued to endeuour to hang the Rudder; and when God sent vs water, (notwithstanding the abun∣dance of Ice that was yet about vs) to haue her further off: In the afternoone, we vnder-run our small Cable to our An∣ker, which lay a-Sterne in deepe water; and so with some dif∣ficultie gate vp our Anker: This Cable had laine slacke vn∣der-foot, and vnder the Ice, all the Winter: and wee could neuer haue a cleere slatch from Ice, to haue it vp, before now; we found it not a iot the worse. I put some to make Col∣rakes; that they might goe into the water, and rake a hole in the sands to let downe our Rudder.

The sixth,* 1.61 we went about to hang it. And our young lus∣tiest men tooke turnes, to goe into the water, and to rake away the sand: but they were not able to indure the cold of it halfe a quarter of an houre, it was so mortifying: yea, vse what comforts we could, it would make them swound and dye away. We brought it to the Sternepost: but were then faine to giue it ouer, being able to worke at it no longer. Then we plugg'd vp the vpper holes, within boord: and fell to pumping the water againe out of her.

The seuenth we wrought something about our Rudder,* 1.62 but were againe forced to giue ouer; and to put out our Ca∣bles ouer-boord, with Messengers vnto them: the Ankers lying to that passe, that we might keepe her right in her docke, when we should haue brought her light.

By the eighth at night,* 1.63 we had pumpt all the water out of her: and shee at a high water would fleet in her docke, though she were still dockt in the sands, almost fourefoot. This made vs to consider what was to be done. I resolued to heaue out all the Ballast: for that the bottome of her being so soakt all the winter, I hoped was so heauy, that it would beare her. If we could not get her off that way, I then thought to cut her downe to the lower decke, and take out her Masts: and so with our Caske to Buoy her off.

The ninth,* 1.64 betimes in the morning wee fell to worke, we hoyst out our Beere and Cydar, and made a raft of it; fastning it to our shoare-Anker: The Beere and Cydar sunke presently to the ground: which was nothing strange to vs; for that any wood or pipe-slaues that had layne vnder the Ice all the winter, would also sinke downe, so soone as euer it was heaued ouer-boord: This day we heaued out tenne tunne of Ballast. And here I am to remember Gods good∣nesse towards vs: in sending those forementioned greene Vetches. For now our feeble sicke men, that could not for their liues stirre these two or three months, can indure the ayre and walke about the house: our other sicke men gather strength also: and it is wonderfull to see how soone they were recouered. We vsed them in this manner: Twice a day we went to gather the herbe or leafe of these Vetches, as they first appeared out of the ground: then did we wash and boyle them, and so with Oyle and Vineger that had been fro∣zen, we did eate them: It was an excellent sustenance and refreshing: the most part of vs ate nothing else: we would likewise bruise them, and take the Iuyce of them, and mixe that with our drinke: we would eate them raw also, with our bread.

The eleuenth was very warme weather,* 1.65 and we did hang

our Rudder. The tydes did now very much deceiue vs: for a Northerly wind would very little raise the water. This made vs doubt of getting off our Ship.

The thirteenth I resolued of the Latitude of this place,* 1.66 so that hauing examined the Instruments, and practised about it this Fortnight, I now found it to be in 52 degrees, and 3 minutes.

The foureteenth wee had heaued out all the Ballast,* 1.67 and carried all our Yards, and euery thing else of weight a∣shoare, so that we now had the Ship as light as possible it could be.

The fifteenth we did little but exercise our selues:* 1.68 see∣ing that by this time, our men that were most feeble, are now growne strong, and can runne about. The flesh of their gummes became settled againe, and their teeth fastned: so that they can eate Beefe with their Vetches.

This day I went to our Watch-tree: but the Sea (for any thing I could perceiue to the contrary) was still firme frozen: and the Bay we were in, all full of Ice, hauing no way to vent it.

The sixteenth was wondrous hot,* 1.69 with some thunder and lightning, so that our men did goe into the ponds ashoare, to swimme and coole themselues: yet was the water very cold still. Here had lately appeared diuers sorts of flyes: as Butterflyes, Butchers-flyes, Horseflyes: and such an infinit abundance of bloud-thirsty Muskitoes, that we were more tormented with them, then euer we were with the cold wea∣ther. These (I thinke) lye dead in the old rotten wood all the winter, and in summer they reuiue againe. Here be like∣wise infinite company of Ants, and Frogs in the ponds vp∣on the land: but we durst not eate of them; they lookt so speckled like Toads. By this time were there neither Beares, Foxes, nor Fowle to be seene: they are all gone.

The seuenteenth,* 1.70 the wind came Northerly, and wee ex∣pecting a high Tyde, in the morning betimes, put out our small Cable asterne out at the Gun-roome-port: but the morning Tyde we had not water by a foot. In the Euening

I had laid markes, by stones, &c. and mee thoughts the water did flow apace. Making signes therefore for the Boate to come ashoare; I tooke all that were able to doe any thing with me aboord: and at high water (although she wanted something to rise cleere out of her docke) yet we heau'd with such a good will, that we heaued her thorow the sand into a foot and a halfe deeper water. Further then so, we durst not yet bring her, for that the Ice was all thicke about vs. After we had moor'd her, we went all to prayers: and gaue God thankes, that had giuen vs our ship againe.

The 18th.* 1.71 we were vp betimes: the Cooper, and some with him, to fill fresh water: my selfe with some others, to gather stones at low-water; which we pyling vp in a heape, at high water the Cock-swaine and his Ging, fetcht them aboord: where the Master with the rest stood them. The Ship at low water had a great lust to the offing: by which meanes we could the better come and stop the two vpper holes firmely: after which we fitted other conuenient places, to make others to sinke her, if occasion were.

The ninteenth,* 1.72 we were all vp betimes to worke, as a∣fore specified: these two dayes, our Ship did not fleet: and it was a happy houre, when we got her off, for that we neuer had such a high Tyde all the time we were here. In the Euening, I went vp to our Watch tree: and this was the first time I could see any open water, any way: except that little by the shoareside, where we were. This put vs in some comfort, that the Sea would shortly breake vp: which wee knew must bee to the Northward; seeing that way we were certaine, there was aboue two hundred leagues of Sea.

The 20.* 1.73 we laboured as aforesaid. The winde at N. N. W. The tyde rose so high, that our Ship fleeted, and we drew her further off, into a foote and a halfe deepe water. Thus we did it by little and little; for that the Ice was still won∣derfull thicke about vs.

The 22.* 1.74 there droue much Ice about vs, and within vs, and brought home our Sterne-Anker. At high water (notwith∣standing

all the Ice) we heau'd our Ship further off: that so she might lie aflote at low-water.

The next low-water, we sounded all about the Ship: and found it very foule ground, we discouered stones 3. foote high, aboue the ground, and 2. of them within a Ships breadth of the Ship: whereby did more manifestly appeare Gods mercies to vs: for if when we forced her ashoare, she had strooken one blow against those stones, it had bulged her. Many such dangers were there in this Bay: which we now first perceiued, by the Ices grounding and rising against them. In the Euening, we tow'd off the Ship, vnto the place she rid the last yeere, and there moord her. Shering the Ship, night and day, flood and ebbe, amongst the disperst Ice that came athwart of vs.

The 23.* 1.75 we laboured in fetching our prouisions aboord: which to doe, we were faine to wade to carry it to the boate a full flight-shot: and all by reason the winde was Southerly. This morning, I tooke an Obseruation of the Moones com∣ming to the South, by a Meridian line of 120. yards long: which I had rectified many weeks before-hand.

The 24.* 1.76 I tooke another Obseruation of the Moones com∣ming to the Meridian: for which I referre you to the ob∣seruations in the latter end of this Iournall.

Whereas I had formerly cut downe a very high tree, and made a Crosse of it, to it I now fastened (vppermost) the Kings and Queenes Maiesties Pictures; drawne to the life: and doubly wrapt in lead, and so close, that no weather could hurt them. Betwixt both these I affixed his Maiesties Royall Title: Viz. Charles the first King of England, Scotland, France and Ireland: as also of New-found-land, and of these Territories, and to the Westward, as farre as Nova Albion, and to the Northward to the Latitude of 80. degrees, &c.

On the out-side of the lead, I fastened a shilling and a sixe∣pence of his Maiesties Coyne: vnder that, we fastened the Kings Armes, fairely cut in lead: and vnder that, the Armes of the City of Bristoll. And this being Midsummer-Day, we raised it on the top of the bare Hill, where we had buried

our dead fellowes: formally by this ceremony taking posses∣sion of these Territories, to his Maiesties vse.

The winde continuing Southerly and blowing hard, put all the Ice vpon vs: so that the Ship now rid amongst it, in such apparent danger, that I thought verily we should haue lost her. We laboured, flood and ebbe, both with poles and oares, to heaue away and part the Ice from her. But it was God that did protect and preserue vs: for it was past any mans vnderstanding, how the Ship could indure it, or we by our labour saue her. In the night, the winde shifted to the Westward, and blew the Ice from vs: whereby we had some rest.

The 25.* 1.77 in the morning, the Boate-swayne with a conue∣nient crue with him, began to rigge the Ship: the rest fetch∣ing our prouisions aboord. About 10. a clocke, when it was something darke, I tooke a Lance in my hand; and one with me with a Musket and some fire, and went to our watch-tree; to make a fire on the eminentest place of the Iland: to see if it would be answered: Such fires I had formerly made, to haue knowledge if there were any Saluages on the maine or the Ilands about vs. Had there beene any, my purpose was to haue gone to them, to get some intelligence of some Christi∣ans, or some Ocean Sea thereabouts. When I was come to the tree, I laid downe my Lance, and so did my Consort his Musket: and whilest my selfe climed vp to the top of the tree, I ordered him to put fire vnto some low tree therabouts. He, (vnaduisedly) put fire to some trees that were to wind-ward: so that they (and all the rest too by reason it had beene very hot weather) being seare and dry, tooke fire like flaxe or hempe: and the wind blowing the fire towards me, I made haste downe the tree. But before I was halfe way down, the fire tooke in the bottome of it, and blazed so fiercely vpwards, that I was faine to leape off the tree, and downe a steepe hill, and in briefe, with much adoe, escapt burning. The mosse on the ground was as dry as flaxe: and it would runne most strangely, and like a traine along the earth. The Musket and the Lance were both burnt. My Consort at last

came to me, and was ioyfull to see me: for he thought veri∣ly I had bin burned. And thus we went homeward together, leauing the fire increasing, and still burning most furiously. We could see no answer of it. I slept but little all night after: and at breake of day, I made all our Powder and Beefe, to be carried aboord. This day, I went to the hils, to looke to the fire: where I saw how it did still burne most furiously: both to the Westward, and Northward: leauing one vpon the hils to watch it, I came home immediately, and made them take downe our new suite of sayles, and carry them to the seas-side, ready to be cast in, if occasion were, and to make haste to take downe our houses. About noone, the winde shifted Northerly; and our Sentinell came running home, bringing vs word that the fire did follow him at hard heeles, like a traine of powder. It was no neede to bid vs take downe and carry all away to the sea-side. The fire came towards vs with a most terrible rattling noyse: bearing a full mile in breadth: and by that time wee had vncouered our houses and laid hand on, to carry away our last things: the fire was come to our Towne and seazed on it, and (in a trice) burnt it downe to the ground. We lost nothing of any value in it: for we had brought it all away into a place of security. Our dogges, in this combustion, would sit downe on their tayles, and howle, and then runne into the Sea, on the shoalds, and there stay. The winde shifted Easterly: and the fire ranged to the Westward, seeking what it might deuoure. This night, we lay all together a∣boord the Ship, and gaue God thankes, that had Shipt vs in her againe.

The twentie seuen,* 1.78 twentie eight, and twentie nine; wee wrought hard, in fetching our things aboord, as likewise our water, which we must towe off with the ebbe, and bring it to the Ship with the flood. Moreouer, we must goe about the Easter-point for drift-wood: for our tooles were all so spent, that we could cut none. Wherefore, about some three dayes agone, I had caused our Pinnace to be sawed to pieces, and with that we stowed our Caske, intending to burne it at

low waters, and such other times, as we could not worke in carrying things aboord. I employed the men in fetching stones: and we did build three Tombs ouer our three dead fellowes; filling them vp with sand in a decent and handsome fashion. The least Tombe, had two tunnes of stones about it.

The thirtieth, we most earnestly continued our labour: and brought our sayles to yard: and by eleuen a clocke at night had made a priddy Ship: meaning to haue finished our busi∣nesse with the weeke and the moneth, that so we might the better solemnize the Sabbath ashoare to morrow, and so take leaue of our wintering Iland.

The winde hath been variable a great while: and the Bayes are now so cleere of Ice, that we cannot see a piece of it: for it was all gone to the Northward. Hoping therefore that it giue content to some Readers: I will relate the manner of the breaking of it vp. It is first to be noted, that it doth not freeze (naturally) aboue sixe foot: the rest, is by accident. Such is that Ice that you may see here, sixe faddome thicke. This we had manifest proofe of, by our digging the Ice out of the Ship: and by digging to our Ankers, before the Ice broke vp.

In May, when the heate increaseth, it thawes first on the shoald by the shoare side: which when it hath done round about, then the courses of the tydes (as well by the ebbe and flood, as by their rising and falling) doe so shake the maine Ice, that it cracks and breakes it. Thus, when it hath gotten roome for motion; then runnes one piece of it vpon ano∣ther: and so bruises and grinds it selfe against the shoalds and rocks, that it becomes abbreuiated, insomuch that a Ship may haue well passage thorow it. Besides this; much of it is thrust vpon the shoalds, where it is much consumed by the heate of the Sunne. The season here in this Climate, is most vnnatu∣rall: for in the day time, it will be extreme hot: yea not in∣durable in the Sunne, which is, by reason that it is a sandy countrey. In the night againe, it will freeze an inch thicke in the ponds, and in the tubs about and in our house: And all this, towards the latter end of Iune.

The Muskitoes vpon our comming away, were most in∣tolerable. Wee tore an old Auncient in pieces, and made vs bagges of it to put our heads in: but it was no fortification against them. They would finde wayes and meanes to sting vs, that our faces were swolne hard out in pumples, which would so itch and smart, that we must needs rubbe and teare them. And these flyes, indeed, were more tormenting to vs, then all the cold we had heretofore indured.

Iuly. 1632.

The first of this month being Sunday, we were vp betimes. And I caused our Ship to be adorned the best we could: our Ancient on the Poope, and the Kings Colours in the maine top. I had prouided a short briefe of all the passages of our voyage to this day: I likewise wrote in what state we were at present, and how I did intend to prosecute the discouery, both to the Westward, and to the Southward, about this Iland. This Briefe discourse I had concluded, with a request to any Noble minded Trauaylor that should take it downe, or come to the notice of it: that if we should perish in the Action, then to make our indeuours knowne to our Soue∣raigne Lord the King. And thus with our Armes, Drumme and Colours, Cooke and Kettle, we went ashoare, and first we marcht vp to our eminent Crosse, adioyning to which we had buried our dead fellowes. There we read morning pray∣er, and then walked vp and downe till dinner time. After dinner we walkt to the highest Hils, to see which way the fire had wasted. We descryed that it had consumed to the Westward, sixteene miles at least, and the whole bredth of the Iland: neere about our Crosse and dead, it could not come: by reason it was a bare sandy Hill. After Euening prayer, I happened to walke alongst the Beach side: where I found an herbe resembling Scuruy-grasse. I made some to be gathered: which we boyld with our meate to supper: It was most excellent good, and farre better them our Vet∣ches. After supper we went all to seeke and gather more of

it: which we did, to the quantity of two bushels which did afterwards much refresh vs: And now the Sunne was set, and the Boat comne ashoare for vs: whereupon we assem∣bled our selues together, and went vp to take the last view of our dead, and to looke vnto their Tombes, and other things: here leaning vpon mine arme, on one of their Tombes I vttered these lines, which though perchance they may pro∣cure laughter in the wiser sort (which I shall be glad of) they yet moued my young and tender-hearted companions at that time with some compassion. And these they were.

I Were vnkind, vnlesse that I did shead, Before I part, some teares vpon our dead: And when my eyes be dry, I will not cease In heart to pray, their bones may rest in peace: Their better parts, (good soules) I know were giuen, With an intent they should returne to heauen. Their liues they spent, to the last drop of bloud, Seeking Gods glory, and their Countries good, And as a valiant Souldier rather dyes, Then yeelds his courage to his Enemies: And stops their way, with his hew'd flesh, when death Hath quite depriu'd him of his strength and breath: So haue they spent themselues; and here they lye, A famous marke of our Discouery. We that suruiue, perchance may end our dayes In some imployment meriting no praise; And in a dung-hill rot: when no man names The memory of vs, but to our shames. They haue out-liu'd this feare, and their braue ends, Will euer be an honour to their friends. Why drop ye so, mine eyes? Nay rather powre My sad departure in a solemne showre. The Winters cold, that lately froze our bloud, Now were it so extreme, might doe this good, As make these teares, bright pearles: which I would lay, Tomb'd safely with you, till Doomes fatall day.

That in this Solitary place, where none Will euer come to breathe a sigh or grone, Some remnant might be extant, of the true And faithfull loue, I euer tenderd you. Oh, rest in peace, deare friends, and let it be No pride to say the sometime part of me. What paine and anguish doth afflict the head, The heart and stomake, when the limbes are dead: So grieu'd, I kisse your graues: and vow to dye, A Foster-father to your memory.

Farewell.

So fastning my briefe to the Crosse, which was securely wrapt vp in Lead: we presently tooke Boat and departed: and neuer put foote more on that Iland. This Iland and all the rest, (as likewise the maine) is a light white sand; couered ouer with a white mosse, and full of shrubs and low bushes: excepting some bare hils, and other patches. In these bare places, the sand will driue with the wind like dust. It is very full of trees, as Spruse and Iuniper: but the biggest tree I saw, was but a foote and a halfe ouer. At our first comming hither, we saw some Deare and kild one: but neuer any since. Foxes, all the winter we saw many, and kild some dozen of them: but they went all away in May. Beares we saw but few, but kild none: we saw some other little beasts. In May there came some fowle, as Duckes and Geese: of which we kild very few. White Partridges we saw; but in small quantities: nor had we any shot, to shoot at them. Fish we could neuer see any in the Sea: nor no bones of fish on the shoare side: excepting a few Cockle-shels: and yet no∣thing in them neither. Other things remarkeable I haue before mentioned.

Notes

• * 1.1

  30.
• * 1.2

  Nouember.
• * 1.3

  December 1.
• * 1.4

  2.
• * 1.5

  3.
• * 1.6

  4.
• * 1.7

  5. & 6.
• * 1.8

  7.
• * 1.9

  8. & 9.
• * 1.10

  10.
• * 1.11

  21
• * 1.12

  23.
• * 1.13

  27.
• * 1.14

  6.
• * 1.15

  21.
• * 1.16

  26.
• * 1.17

  30. & 31.
• * 1.18

  1.
• * 1.19

  15.
• * 1.20

  16.
• * 1.21

  1.
• * 1.22

  6.
• * 1.23

  15.
• * 1.24

  13.
• * 1.25

  16.
• * 1.26

  17.
• * 1.27

  18.
• * 1.28

  19.
• * 1.29

  21.
• * 1.30

  23.
• * 1.31

  24.
• * 1.32

  25.
• * 1.33

  28.
• * 1.34

  29.
• * 1.35

  30.
• * 1.36

  31.
• * 1.37

  1.
• * 1.38

  2.
• * 1.39

  3.
• * 1.40

  4.
• * 1.41

  6.
• * 1.42

  9.
• * 1.43

  10.
• * 1.44

  11. & 12.
• * 1.45

  13.
• * 1.46

  14.
• * 1.47

  15.
• * 1.48

  18.
• * 1.49

  19.
• * 1.50

  20.
• * 1.51

  21.
• * 1.52

  22.
• * 1.53

  23.
• * 1.54

  24.
• * 1.55

  25
• * 1.56

  26.
• * 1.57

  28.
• * 1.58

  29.
• * 1.59

  30.
• * 1.60

  5.
• * 1.61

  6.
• * 1.62

  7.
• * 1.63

  8.
• * 1.64

  9.
• * 1.65

  11.
• * 1.66

  13.
• * 1.67

  14.
• * 1.68

  15.
• * 1.69

  16.
• * 1.70

  17.
• * 1.71

  18.
• * 1.72

  19.
• * 1.73

  20.
• * 1.74

  22.
• * 1.75

  23.
• * 1.76

  24.
• * 1.77

  25.
• * 1.78

  27.