therefore (because I take it for a confessed truth, that our ancestors neuer shewed themselues more curious in their diet, then many countreyes at this day,) I shall desire the reader not to take it amisse, if I compare some of their customes and fa∣shions, with those in vse at this present. And first I will beginne with one which is so common and ordinary, that children of tenne or twelue yeares of age may well remember it: and if I shold say that it were yet practised in some places of France, I should not (it may be) speake without my booke. It is a foolish custome taken vp by certaine gentlemen, who to the end they may cunningly deceiue and finely fetch ouer their seruants, cause their table to be furnished at the first seruice, with I know not what fryed fritters, hotchpotches, sippets, sauces, and gallymalfrayes: and then with store of Mutton, Veale, and boūsing peeces of Beefe, which peeces of Beefe they will rather feed vpon, then vpon any other dish. And after that the stomacke hath reuenged his quarrell vpon such grosse meates, they serue in Ca∣pon, Chicken, Pigeon, and wild foule. Yet not all in one course: for they keepe Partridge, Phaysant and other dainties, for the last seruice; the stomacke being not onely satisfied, but euen closed vp. So that it is great pittie to see how the seruitors (poore soules) are glad to eate such meates, as their stomackes were neuer accusto∣med vnto, and to leaue their ordinary fare for their masters and mistresses. I mean how they are to take the paines to eate the finer meates, as wild foule, and venai∣son, and to leaue the grosser for them. What then can the old man answer, Lauda∣tor tēporis acti se puero? Or what can he say (trow we) to defend or excuse the rusti∣city of former times? (for in that I call those that vsed this seemely seruice, but rude and rusticall, I fauour them much.) And were it not that I am afraid I should be ouer troublesome, I would gladly aske them yet another question, touching Partridge, & such like foule, viz. Whether those men had noses or not? and if they had, what noses they were, when they could find no goodnesse in wild foule, and venaison, except it were tainted a litle, that is, (to speake plaine English) except it stunke a little, this stincke seeming to them to be 〈…〉〈…〉 of venaison?
3 But now to proceed to the fashions of other countryes, which haue bene (perhaps) practised alike by our ancestors, as hath bene said. Albeit then there be no French-man to be found at this day, if he be of the right stamp, and haue wher∣with to maintain himself, who hath so bad a tast, but can put a difference between tender and tough flesh: yet it were a wonder (I had almost said a miracle) to see a German who neuer trauailed abroad, that either obserued or cared to obserue this difference. For example, Ne gallina malum responset dura palato, as Horace speaketh: that is, lest the pullets flesh should be ouer tough, and vnpleasant to the tast, the Frenchman who hath no leasure to kill it a day or two before, that it may wax ten∣der of it selfe, will haue twenty deuises besides those mentioned in Horace. But when he shall leaue France his natiue countrey, and come into Germanie, he will not a little wonder to see a pullet (or some cocke of the game, for want of a better) serued to the table, which he had heard crowing in the court but halfe an houre before: which shalbe killed, plumed, and boiled, al in the sodainnesse of an instant. If our ancestors then (not to speake of Germans) haue done the like, may we not truly say that they were very rude and rusticall? Except some proctor shall haply plead for them, and tell vs that their stomackes were hotter then ours; so that they could disgest meate halfe raw, as well as we can flesh thorowly rosted, boiled, or baked. But Phisitians, which liued in those dayes, witnes the contrary. This there∣fore may serue for an instance of cookerie or dressing of meates. Let vs see another in the choise of them: choice I say, not of diuers sorts of meates, but of the same