The travels of Sig. Pietro della Valle, a noble Roman, into East-India and Arabia Deserta in which, the several countries, together with the customs, manners, traffique, and rites both religious and civil, of those Oriental princes and nations, are faithfully described : in familiar letters to his friend Signior Mario Schipano : whereunto is added a relation of Sir Thomas Roe's Voyage into the East-Indies.
Della Valle, Pietro, 1586-1652., Roe, Thomas, Sir, 1581?-1644., Havers, G. (George)

An account of my Arrival and Residence at Naples, in the House of Sig: Maria Schipano.

JAnuary the thirtieth, Having hir'd two Felluca's for Naples, [ I] and embarqu'd all our goods with good Bills of Health, (which in regard of Sitti Maani's Body which I carry'd with me, were more then necessary, and my Friends at Mes∣sina had procur'd to my satisfaction) in the Morning we set sail from Messina with a good wind, being accompany'd to the boat by many Persons of quality of both Sexes, from whom we separated with much tenderness. We pass'd the Pharo between Caribdis and Scilla, the Sea being sufficiently rough, though the wind favorable. On the left hand, at a good distance we left the Island of Strongile, Vulcano, and other places; at night arriving at Trupia, where, because they refus'd to give us Prattick, alledging that this was no Landing-place in these infectious times, and that certain Landing-places were ap∣pointed Page  312 for Passage-Vessels upon the Coast of Calabria, where alone Prattick was to be had; we kept out at Sea all night, and pass'd il Pizzo.

January the one and thirtieth, We pass'd by Mantea and other places, at noon arriving at Paola where I went ashore. A little without the City, amongst the little Hills we saw the Church of S. Francis of Paola, which is delicately seated amongst goodly Trees and Brooks which run between the Hills. We saw the Reliques, the Chappel of the Marquis, Lord of the place, and his Sepulchres; the Lime-kiln where S. Francis did a miracle; the Fountain and the Grotto wherein he lived, with all other things remarkable; after which we lodg'd in an Hostery or Inn upon the shore.

February the first, Having heard Mass in a little Church there, we left Paola, and passing by Scoglio del Marchese and other Islands; in the Evening we supp'd at Sea under Belvedere, and sailing all night, the next day we din'd on Land at Camerota; from whence we sail'd and came to an Anchor in the Port of Pali∣nuro; which place I beheld with pleasure, through the delight∣full remembrance of Virgil's Verses, which relate the mis∣fortune of the Pilot Palniurus, and with-all, give immortal fame to the place.

February the fourth, We departed from Palinuro, and lodg'd on shore at Acciaruolo, where Passengers are notoriously abus'd, by being constrain'd to lodg in a lewd Inn there, and pay the Host what he pleases to demand, who is also to pay the Lord of the place what Rent he desires. The next day we pass'd the Gulph of Salerno, and bocche di Capri, arriving late in the Port of Napples, under the Dogana of Corn; but because it was so late that we could not get Prattick, we slept all night in the Felluca's.

February the sixth, Sig: Andrea Pulice my Comrade, being by me advertis'd of my coming, brought Sig: Mario Schipano, and many other Friends to visit me in my Felluca; which interview, after so many years, was as pleasant as can be imagin'd. As soon as the Officers negotiated for Prattick they obtain'd it; but, for less trouble, and because I intended to stay little at Naples, I di∣spatch'd one of my Felluca's wherein was the Body of Sitti Maani, and other goods, immediately to Rome. Upon Sig: Schipano's invitation, I lodg'd in his House, together with all my people. At Naples I receiv'd the first Letters from Rome af∣ter above four years, wherein I had not receiv'd any, nor heard any certain tidings of my Relations. These advertis'd me of the death of Sig: Vallerio della Valle, which hapned four years before, and also of that of Sig: Tomasso della Valle, my Uncle, which fell out about a year before my arrival. At whose deaths I also be∣ing no longer accounted living, certain Pious Places seis'd upon part of my goods and revenues, and would have gotten all the rest with the writings, (as they attempted to do) had not my Page  213 kinred, and, particularly, SigraLaura Gaetana stoutly with-stood them, making it apparent that I was alive, by shewing some of my Letters which she had lately receiv'd; whereto nevertheless they would by no means give credit. I found entertainment for many dayes in reading abundance of Letters from Rome, which almost all my kindred and friends writ to me, and in answering the same; as also in receiving and returning the visits of many Neapolitan Cavaliers and Titolado's; and, indeed, I am much oblig'd to all the Nobility of that City for the Civilities they shew'd me in this my Return.

February the tenth, I sent to Rome authentical Certificates of [ II] my survivance, attested by many Persons of Naples, who acknow∣ledg'd me for what I was twelve years before when I departed thence; as also Letters of Attorney and other writings, to the end my Relations might make use thereof to my benefit against who-ever at Rome attempted to molest my Estate.

February the three and twentieth, A brave Tournement was publickly made at Naples with great splendor in the Piazza of the Palace, for the Birth of the Princess of Spain, the King's first-born Daughter; to behold which, there interven'd with the Duke of Alva, the Vice-Roy, the Duke of Alcala, newly ar∣riv'd from Rome, where he had been extraordinary Ambassador about the troubles of Italy. The Tourneyment was gallant, con∣sisting of abundance of Squadrons and Cavaliers, but without any Inventions, and nothing near so brave as that which I saw here in the year 1612. upon the Marriage of France and Spain.

February the four and twentieth, Which was the day of Carni∣val, a Mascherade was made in Naples, and Balls in the Palace for an entertainment to the Duke of Alcala; as also the next day, (although it was Lent) another Mascherade was made on Horse-back with a Tilting, and at night Balls in the Palace.

March the ninth, About seven a clock at night, a very great Earth-quake hapned in Naples, which shook the strongest walls as if they had been but of paper; but it lasted little, and was very short, so that (God be prais'd) it did no considerable hurt, although for the small time it continu'd, it was sufficiently dreadful.

March the tenth, The Abbess and other Nunns of San Marcel∣lino, and, particularly, Donna Feliciana, and Donna Beatrice d' Avalos, (to whom I have always had great respect) did me the favor to cause a Mass to be sung in their Church, whilst I was present, in thanks to God for my safe return into Italy; where twelve years before I had begun and took the Ensignes of my Peregrination.

March the thirteenth, The fit time for my departure by Sea to Rome, being come, I took leave of Sig: Mario Schipano, who had entertain'd us nobly all the time of my stay at Naples, (du∣ring which, we frequently review'd our Letters and Travels Page  314 with much Curiosity and Pleasure) and also of all other Friends, and after due thanks to Sig: Angelo Crescentio, and Sig: Andrea Pulice who accompani'd us to the Scoglio di Euplea, vulgarly call'd Gaiola, I went aboard and departed.