The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox

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The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox
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Tavernier, Jean-Baptiste, 1605-1689.
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London :: Printed by William Godbid for Robert Littlebury ... and Moses Pitt ...,
1677.
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"The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A63439.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 25, 2025.

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CHAP. VIII. The Road from Agra to Patna, and Daca, Cities in the Province of Bengala, and of the Quarrel which the Author had with Cha-Est-Kan, the King's Unckle.

I Departed from Agra toward Bengala the 25th of November 1665, and that day I reach'd no farther than a very bad Inn, distant from Agra, costes 3

The 26th I came to Beruzabad, costes 9

This is a little City where, at my return, I received eight thousand Roupies, being the remainder of the Money which Giafer-Kan ow'd me for Wares that he had bought at Janabat.

The 27th to Serael Morlides, costes 9

The 28th to Serail Estanja, costes 14

The 29th to Serail Haii-mal, costes 12

The 30th. to Serail Sekandera, costes 13

The 1st of December to Sanqual, costes 14

I met that day 110 Waggons, every Waggon drawn by sixOxen, & in every Waggon 50000 Roupies. This is the Revenue of the Province of Bengala, with all charges de∣fraid, and the Governor's Purse well-fill'd, comes to 5500000 Roupies. A league beyond Sanqual, you must pass a River call'd Saingour, which runs into Gemine, not above half a league distant from it. You pass over this River of Saingour upon a Stone-bridg, and when you come from toward Bengala to go to Seronge or Su∣rat, if you have a mind to shorten your journey ten days, you must leave Agra-Road, and come to this Bridg, and so Ferry over Gemine in a Boat. But generally Agra-Road is taken, because the other way you must travel five or six days to∣gether upon the stones; and also for that you are to pass through the Territories of certain Raja's, where you are in danger of being robb'd.

The second day I came to an Inn call'd Cherourabad, costes 12

When you are got about half the way, you pass through Gianabad, a little City, near to which, about a quarter of a League on this side, crossing a Field of Millet, I saw a Rhinoceros feeding upon Millet-Canes, which a little Boy of nine or ten years old gave him to eat. When I came near the Boy, he gave me some Millet to give the Rhinoceros; who immediately came to me, open∣ing his chops three or four times; I put the Millet into his mouth, and when he had swallow'd it, he still open'd his mouth for more.

The 3d I came to Serrail Chajeada, costes 10

The 4th to Serrail Atakan, costes 13

The 5th to Aureng-Abad, costes 9

Formerly this Village had another name; but being the place where Aureng∣zeb gave Battel to his Brother Sultan Sujah, who was Governor of all the Pro∣vince of Bengala; Aureng-zeb, in Memory of the Victory he had won, gave it his own name, and built there a very fair House, with a Garden, and a little Mosquee.

The 6th to Alinchan, costes 9

Two leagues on this side Alinchan, you meet the River Ganges. Monsieur Ber∣nier the King's Physitian, and another person whose name was Rachepot, with whom I travell'd, were amaz'd to see, that a River that had made such a noise in the World, was no broader than the River Seine before the Lovre; be∣lieving before, that it had been as wide as the Danaw above Belgrade. There is also so little water in it from March to June or July, when the rains fall, that it will not bear a small Boat. When we came to Ganges, we drank every one of us a

Page 52

Glass of Wine, mixing some of the River-water with it; which caus'd a griping in our bellies: But our Servants that drank it alone, were worse tormented than we. The Hollanders, who have an House upon the Bank of Ganges, never drink the water of this River, until they have boil'd it. But for the natural Inhabitants of the Countrey, they are so accustom'd to it from their youth, that the King and the Court drink no other. You shall see a vast number of Camels every day, whose business only it is to fetch water from the Ganges.

The 7th, I came to Halabas, costes 8

Halabas is a great City, built upon a point of Land where Ganges and Ge∣mine meet. There is a fair Castle of hew'n Stone, with a double Moat; where the Governour resides. He is one of the greatest Lords in India; and being very sickly, he has always about him ten Persian Physicians. He had also in his service, Claudius Maille of Bourges, who practises Chyrurgery and Physick both together. This was he that advis'd us not to drink of Ganges Water, which would put us into a looseness; but rather to drink Well-water. The chief of these Persian Physicians, whom this Governour hires with his Money, one day threw his Wife from the top of a Battlement to the ground; prompt∣ed to that act of cruelty, by some jealousies he had entertain'd. He thought the fall had kill'd her, but she had only a Rib or two bruis'd; whereupon the Kindred of the Woman came and demanded justice, at the feet of the Gover∣nour. The Governour sending for the Physician, commanded him to be gone, resolving to retain him no longer in his service. The Physician obey'd, and putting his maim'd Wife in a Pallanquin, he set forward upon the Road with all his Family. But he was not gone above three or four days journey from the City, when the Governour finding himself worse than he was wont to be, sent to recall him; which the Physician perceiving, stab'd his Wife, his four Children, and thirteen female Slaves, and return'd again to the Governour, who said not a word to him, but entertain'd him again into his service.

The eighth day I cross'd the River in a large Boat, having stay'd from morn∣ing till noon upon the bank-side, expecting Monsieur Maille, to bring me a Pass∣port from the Governour. For there stands a Deroga upon each side of the River, who will not suffer any person to pass without leave; and he takes no∣tice what sort of Goods are transported; there being due from every Waggon four Roupies, and from every Coach one; not accounting the charge of the Boat, which you must pay beside. The same day I went to Sadoul-serail, costes 16

The ninth, to Yakedel-sera, costes 10

The tenth, to Bouraki-sera, costes 10

The eleventh, to Banarou, costes 10

Banarou is a large City, and handsomly built; the most part of the Houses being either of Brick or Stone, and higher than in any other Cities of India; but the inconveniency is, that the Streets are very narrow. There are many Inns in the Town; among the rest, one very large, and very handsomely built. In the middle of the Court are two Galleries, where are to be sold Calicuts, Silks, and other sorts of Merchandise. The greatest part of the Sellers, are the Workmen themselves; so that the Merchants buy at the first hand. These Workmen, before they expose any thing to sale, must go to him that has the stamp, to have the Kings Seal set upon their Linnen and Silks; otherwise they would be fin'd, and lambasted with a good Cudgel. This City is scituated upon the North side of Ganges, that runs by the Walls, and into which there falls also another River, some two Leagues upward toward the West. In Banarou stands one of the Idolaters principal Pagods, whereof I shall speak in my second Book, when I come to treat of the Religion of the Banians.

About five hundred paces from the City Northward, there is a Mosquee, where are to be seen many Mahometan Sepulehers; whereof some are very curious pieces of Architecture. The fairest are every one in the middle of a Garden enclosed with Walls, wherein there are Holes some half a foot square, through which Passengers may have a sight of the Tomb within. The most considerable of all is as it were a four square Pedestal, every square whereof is forty paces wide. In the midst of this Platform rises a Column thirty-two or thirty-five foot high, all of a piece, which three men can hardly embrace.

Page 53

The Stone is of a grey colour, and so hard that I could not scrape it with my Knife. As it is Pyramidical, there is a great Bowl at the top, which is en∣compass'd at the upper end with huge Grains of Wheat. All the fronts of the Tomb are full of figures of Animals cut in the Stone; and it has been higher above ground than now it seems to be, for several old men, that look'd to some of the Sepulchers, assur'd me, that within these fifty years it had sunk above thirty foot into the Earth. They tell you moreover, that it is the Se∣pulcher of one of the Kings of Boutan, who was interr'd here after he had left his own Countrey to conquer this Kingdom, out of which he was driven by the Successors of Tamerlane. The Kingdom of Boutan is the place from whence they fetch Musk, and I will give you a description of it in my third Book.

I stay'd at Banarou the 12th and 13th; and during those two days it rain'd continually, but not so as to stop my journey; so that the evening of the thir∣teenth day I cross'd the Ganges, with the Governours Pass-port. Before you go into the Boat, they search the Travellers baggage; wearing Apparel how∣ever pays nothing of Custom, but only Merchandise.

The 13th, I went to Baterpour, costes 2

The 14th, to Satraguy-sera, costes 8

The 15th, to Moniarky-sera, costes 9

The same day in the morning, after I had travel'd two Leagues, I cross'd a River call'd Carnasarsou; and three Leagues from thence I cross'd another, which they call Saode-sou; both which I foarded.

The 16th, to Gourmabad, costes 8

This is a Town upon a River call'd Goudera-sou, which is cross'd over a Stone-Bridg.

The 17th, to Saseron, costes 4

Saseron is a City at the foot of certain Mountains, near to which there is a great Lake. In the middle whereof there is a small Island, with a fair Mosquee built upon it; wherein is to be seen, the Sepulcher of a Nahab or Favourite, call'd Selim-Kan; who built it when he was Governour of the Province. There is a fair Bridg to cross over into the Island, pav'd and lin'd with large free Stone. Upon one side of the Lake is a great Garden, in the middle whereof is another fair Sepulcher of the Son of the same Nahab, Selim-Kan, who suc∣ceeded his Father in the Government of the Province. If you would go to the Mine of Soulmelpour, whereof I shall speak in the last Book of these Re∣lations, you must leave the great Road to Patna, and bend to the South through Exberbourgh, and the famous Fortress of Rhodes, of which I shall treat in the same place.

The 18th, I ferry'd in a Boat over the River Sonsou, which descends from the Southern Mountains; after you have cross'd it, the Merchandise pays a cer∣tain Toll.

The same day I travel'd on to Daoud-Nagar-sera, where there is a fair Tomb, costes 9

The 19th, to Halva-sera, costes 10

The 20th, to Aga-sera, costes 9

In the morning I met a hundred and thirty Elephants, great and small, which they were leading to Dehli to the great Mogul.

The one and twentienth, to Patna, costes 10

Patna is one of the greatest Cities of India, upon the Bank of Ganges, to∣ward the West; not being less than two Leagues in length. But the Houses are no fairer than in the greatest part of the other Cities of India; being cover'd with Bambouck, or Straw. The Holland Company have a House there, by reason of their Trade in Saltpeter, which they refine at a great Town call'd Choupar, which is also scituated upon Ganges, ten Leagues above Patna.

Coming to Patna, we met the Hollanders, in the Street returning from Chou∣par, who stop'd our Coaches to salute us. We did not part, till we had emptied two Bottles of Sohiras Wine in the open Street; which is not taken notice of in that Country, where people meet with an entire freedom without any Cere∣mony.

I stay'd eight days at Patna, during which time there fell out an accident,

Page 54

which will let the Reader understand, that Sodomy does not go altogether un∣punish'd among the Mahumetans. A Mimbachi, who commanded a thousand Foot, went about to abuse a young Boy in his service; and who had several times resisted his attempts; complaining also to the Governour, and telling him withall, that if his Master persisted to urge him any more, he would cer∣tainly kill him. At length the Captain took his opportunity, at a House which he had in the Country, and forc'd the Boy. The Boy o'rewhelm'd with grief and rage, took his opportunity also to revenge himself; and being one day hunt∣ing with his Master, about a quarter of a League from any of his other Ser∣vants, he got behind him, and cleft his head with his Hanger. After he had done, he rode full speed to the City, crying out all the way, that he had kill'd his Master for such a reason; and went immediately to the Governours Lodg∣ing, who sent him to prison; but he let him out at the end of six months; and notwithstanding all the endeavours which the Captains Kindred us'd to have had him put to death, the Governour durst not condemn him, for fear of the people, who affirm'd that the Boy had done well.

I parted from Patna in a Boat for Daca, the nine and twentieth of Janu∣ary, between eleven and twelve at noon; and had the River been deep, as it uses to be after the Rains, I had taken Boat at Hallabas, or at least at Ba∣narou.

The same day I came to lye at sera-Beconcour, costes 15

Five Leagues on this side Beconcour, you meet with a River call'd Pompon∣sou, which comes from the South, and falls into Ganges.

The thirtieth to Sera-d' Erija, costes 17

The one and thirtieth, after we had travel'd four Leagues, or thereabout, we met with the River Kaoa, which comes from the South. Three Leagues lower, you meet with another River call'd Chanon, which comes from the North. Four Leagues farther, you discover the River Erguga, which runs from the South; and at length, six Leagues, beyond, the River Aquera, falling from the same part of the World; all which four Rivers lose their Names in the Ganges. All that day I saw great Mountains toward the South, distant from Ganges sometimes ten, and sometimes fifteen Leagues, till at length I came to lodg in Monger-City, costes 18

The first day of January; 1666, after I had gone by Water two hours, I saw the Gandet fall into the Ganges, flowing from the North. This is a great Ri∣ver, that carries Boats.

That eveining I lay at Zangira, costes 8

But in regard of the winding of Ganges all that days journey, I might well reckon them by Water two and twenty Leagues.

The second day, from between six in the morning till eleven, I saw three Rivers that threw themselves into Ganges, all three descending from the North.

The first is call'd Ronova, the second Then the third Ghanan.

I came to lye at Baquelpour, costes 18

The third, after four hours upon the Ganges, I met the River Katare, which comes from the North; and lay at a Village call'd Pongangel, at the foot of certain Mountains that descend to Ganges it self, costes 13

The fourth, an hours rowing beyond Pongangel, I met a great River, call'd Mart-Nadi, coming from the South; and I lay at Rage-Mehale, costes 6

Rage-Mehale, is a City upon the right hand of Ganges; and if you go by Land, you shall find the high-way, for a League or two, pav'd with Brick to the Town. Formerly the Governours of Bengala resided here; it being an excellent Country for hunting, besides that it was a place of great Trade. But now the River having taken another course, above a good half League from the City, as well for that reason, as to keep in awe the King of Aracan, and se∣veral Portuguese Banditi, who are retir'd to the mouths of Ganges, and made excursions even as far as Daca it self; both the Governour and the Merchants have remov'd themselves to Daca, which is at present a large City, and a Town of great Trade.

The sixth, being arriv'd at a considerable Town, call'd Donapour, six Leagues from Rage-Mehale, I parted with Monsieur Bernier, who was going to Casenbasar,

Page 55

and thence to Ogouli by Land; for when the River is low, there is no going by Water, by reason of a great Bank of Sand that lies before a City call'd San∣tiqui.

I lay that night at Toutipour, distant from Rage-mehale, costes 12

I saw there at Sun-rising a great number of Crocodiles lying upon the Sand.

The seventh, I came to Acerat, costes 25

From Acerat to Daca, it is counted by Land forty-five Leagues. All that day I saw such a vast number of Crocodiles, that I had a great desire to shoot at one, to try whether the vulgar report were true, that a Musket-shot would not pierce their skin. The bullet hit him in the jaw, and made the blood gush out; however he would not stay in the place, but plung'd into the River.

The eighth, I saw again a great number lying upon the bank of the River, and made two shot at two with three bullets at a time. As soon as they were woun∣ded, they turn'd themselves upon their backs, opening their throats, and di'd upon the spot.

That day I came to lie at Douloudia, costes 17

The Crows were here the cause that we found a very fair Fish, which the Fisher-men had hid among the Osiers by the side of the River; for when our Water-men saw the Crows in great numbers hovering, and making an hideous noise about the Osiers, they presently conjectur'd that there was something more than ordinary: and they made so diligent a search, that at length they found an excellent dish of meat.

The ninth, two hours after noon, we met with a River call'd Chativor, that runs from the North, and we lay at Dampour, costes 16

The tenth, we lay by the River-side in a place remote from Houses, and we travell'd that day, costes 15

The eleventh, toward evening, being come to that part where Ganges divides it self into three Arms, whereof one runs to Daca; we lay at a large Town, upon the entry of the great Channel, which Town is call'd Jatrapour, costes 20

They that have no luggage, may make a short-cut from Jatrapour to Daca, and save much ground, by reason of the many windings of the River.

The twelf, about noon, we past by a large Village call'd Bagamara, and came to lie at Kasiata, another great Town, costes 11

The thirteenth, about noon we met with a River, two leagues from Daca, call'd Laquia, which runs from the North-East. Iust against the Point where the two Rivers join, there stands a Fortress of each side, with several pieces of Can∣non. Half a league lower, appears another River call'd Pagalu, upon which there is a fair Bridg of Brick, which Mirza-Mola caus'd to be built. This River comes from the North-East; and half a league upward appears another River call'd Ca∣damtali, that runs from the North, over which there is another Bridg of Brick. On both sides of the River are several Towers, as it were enchas'd with several heads of men, executed for robbing upon the high-way.

About evening we came to Daca, having travell'd by water that day, costes 9

Daca is a great Town, that extends it self only in length; every one coveting to have an House by the Ganges-side. The length of this Town is above two leagues. And indeed from the last Brick-Bridg which I mention'd, to Daca, there is but one continued row of Houses separated one from the other; inhabited for the most part by Carpenters, that build Galleys and other small Vessels. These Houses are properly no more than paltry Huts built up with Bambout's; and daub'd over with fat Earth. Those of Daca are not much better built: The Governor's Palace is a place enclos'd with high Walls, in the midst whereof is a pittiful House, built only of Wood. He generally lodges in Tents, which he causes to be set up in a great Court of that Enclosure. The Hollanders finding that their Goods were not safe in the ordinary Houses of Daca, have built them a very fair House; and the English have another, which is reasonably handsom. The Church of the Austin-Friers is all of Brick, and is a very comely Pile.

When I travell'd last to Daca, the Nahab Cha-Est-Kan, who was then Gover∣nor of Bengala, was at War with the King of Arakan, whose-Naval-Force consists generally of 200 Galeasses, attended by several other smaller Vessels. These Galeasses run through the Gulf of Bengala, and enter into the mouth of Ganges,

Page 56

the Sea flowing up higher then Daca. Cha-Est-Kan, Uncle to King Aureng∣zeb, the present Mogul, and the best Head-piece that ever was in all his Territo∣ries, found out a way to corrupt several of the King of Aracan's Captains, so that of a sudden forty Galeasses, commanded by Portugals, came and join'd themselves with him. To engage more firmly all this new multitude to his service, he gave a larger pay to all the Portugal-Officers, and to the Souldiers proportiona∣bly: But those of the Countrey had no more than their ordinary pay doubl'd. 'Tis an incredible thing to see how swiftly these Galeasses cut their way in the wa∣ter. Some are so long that they carry fifty Oars of a side; but they have but two men to an Oare: There are some very curiously painted, and upon which there is no cost of Gold and Azure spar'd. The Hollanders have some of their own to transport their Goods; and sometimes they are forc'd to hire others, whereby many people get a good livelihood.

The next day after my arrival at Daca, which was the 14th of January, I went to wait upon the Nahab; and presented him with a Garment of Cloath of Gold, lac'd with a Gold-needle-work Lace of Point of Spain; with a Scarf of Gold and Silver of the same Point; and a very fair Emrald-Jewel. Toward evening, being return'd to the Hollander's House, where I lodg'd, the Nahab sent me Gra∣nates, China-Oranges, two Persian-Melons, and three sorts of Pears.

The fifteenth, I shewed him my Goods, and presented the Prince with a Watch, in a Gold-Enamell'd-Case; with a pair of little Pistols inlaid with Silver, and a very fair Prospective-Glass. What I gave to the Father and the Son, a young Lord, about ten years old, stood me in above five thousand Livres.

The sixteenth, I treated with him about the Prizes of my Goods: And at length I went to his Steward to take my Letter of Exchange to be paid at Casen-Bazar. Not but that he would have paid me my Money at Daca; but the Hollanders, who understood things better than I did, told me it was very dangerous to carry Mony to Casen-Bazar, whither there was no going, but over the Ganges by water, the way by land being full of Bogs and Fens. And to go by water is no less dangerous, by reason that the Boats which they use, are very apt to tip over upon the least storm: And when the Mariners perceive that you carry Money along with you, 'tis an easy thing for them to overset the Boat, and afterwards to come and take up the Money that lies but at the bottom of the River.

The twentieth, I took leave of the Nahab, who desir'd me to come and see him again, and caus'd a Pass to be deliver'd me, wherein he gave me the title of one of the Gentlemen of his House, which he had done before, when he was Go∣vernor of Amadabad, when I went to him, to the Army, in the Province of Decan, into which the Raja-seva-gi was enter'd, as I shall relate in another place. By ver∣tue of these Passes I could travel over all the Countreys of the Great Mogul, as being one of his Houshold.

The one and twentieth, the Hollanders made a great Feast for my sake; to which they invited the English, and some Portuguese's, together with the Austin-Friers of the same Nation.

The two and twentieth, I made a Visit to the English, whose President then was Mr. Prat.

From the twenty-third to the twenty-ninth, I bought up Goods, to the value of 11000 Roupies; and after I had embark'd them, I took my leave.

The twenty-ninth, in the evening, I departed from Daca, the Hollanders bear∣ing me company for two leagues, with their little Barques Arm'd: Nor did we spare the Spanish-Wine all that time. Having been upon the River from the twenty-ninth of January to the eleventh of February, I left my Goods and Ser∣vants in the Barque at Acerat; where I took a Boat that carri'd me to a great Village call'd Mirdapour.

The next day I hir'd an Horse for my self, but not finding another for my Lug∣gage, I was forc'd to hire two Women, who carri'd it for me. That evening I ar∣riv'd at Casen-Basar, where I was welcom'd by Menheir Arnold Van Wachttendonk, Director of all the Holland-Factories in Bengala, who invited me to lie at his House.

The fourteenth, Menhoir Wachttendonk return'd to Ouguely, where is the Gene∣ral Factory. The same day one of my Servants brought me word that my People and Goods, which I had left behind in the Barque, had been in very

Page 57

great danger, by reason of the high Winds that had blown for two days to∣gether.

The fifteenth, the Hollanders lent me a Pallekis, to go to Madesou-basarki. This was a great Town three Leagues from Casen-basar, where lay Cha-Est-Kan's Receiver General, to whom I presented my Bill of Exchange. He told me it was very good, and that he would willingly have paid me, had he not receiv'd order the night before, not to pay me, in case he had not paid me al∣ready. He did not tell me the reason that mov'd Cha-Est-Kan to act in that manner; so that I went home to my Lodging infinitely surpriz'd at his pro∣ceeding.

The sixteenth, I wrote to the Nahab, to know the reason why he had for∣bad his Receiver General to pay me.

The seventeenth in the evening, I took water for Ougueli, in a Bark of four∣teen Oars, which the Hollanders lent me; and that night and the next I lay upon the River.

The nineteenth toward evening, I pass'd by a large Town call'd Nandi, far∣ther than which the Sea does not flow. Here the Wind blew so fiercely, and the Water grew so rough, that we were forc'd to stay three or four hours, and ly by the shore.

The twentieth, I arriv'd at Ougueli, where I stay'd till the second of March. During which time the Hollanders bid me very welcome, and made it their business to shew me all the divertisements which the Country was capable to afford. We went several times in Pleasure-Boats upon the River, and we had a Banquet of all the Delicacies that the Gardens of Europe could have afforded us. Salads of all sorts, Colewarts, Asparagus, Pease, but our chiefest Dish was Japon Beans; the Hollanders being very curious to have all sorts of Pulse and Herbs in their Gardens, though they could never get Artichokes to grow in that Country.

The second of March I left Ougueli, and the fifth arriv'd at Casenbasar.

The next day I went to Madesou-Barsaki, to know whether the Nahab had sent any other orders to his Receiver. For I told you a little before, that I wrote upon the place to Cha-Est-Kan, to complain of his proceedings, and to know the reason why my Bill of Exchange was not paid. The Director of the Holland Factories writ a Letter also in my behalf, which I enclosed, wherein he represented to the Nahab, that I was too well known to him, as having been formerly with him at Amadabat, in the Army in Decan, and other places, to deserve such hard usage. That he ought to consider, that I being the only person that brought the chiefest rarities of Europe to the Indies, it was not the way to make me eager of returning any more, as he himself had invited me to do, to send me away in a discontent. Besides, that the credit of my report would discourage others from coming to the Indies, fearing the same usage as I had receiv'd. Neither mine nor the Directors Letter produc'd that effect which we expected. Nor was I much better satisfi'd with the new order which the Nahab sent to his Receiver; which was to pay me, abating twenty thousand Roupies of the sum which we had agreed upon; and if I would not take the remainder, that I might come and fetch my goods again.

This ill dealing of the Nahab, proceeded from a scurvy trick that was play'd me by three Canary-birds at the Great Mogul's Court. The story whereof was thus in short:

Aurengzeb, that now reigns, at the instigation of two Persians and a Banian, has brought up a custom very much to the disadvantage of Merchants, that come out of Europe, and other parts, to sell Jewels at Court. For whether they come into India either by Land or Sea, the Governour of the place where they first arrive, has order to send them to the King, together with their goods, whether they will or no. As the Governour of Surat dealt by me, in the year 1665, sending me to Delhi, or Jehanabad, where the King was. There were then attending upon his Majesty, two Persians and a Banian, who are entrusted to view and examine all the Jewels which are to be sold to the King. One of those Persians is call'd Nahab-Akel-Kan, that is, the Prince of the Spirit; who keeps all the Kings Jewels. The name of the other is

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Mirza-Mouson, whose business is to rate every stone. The Banian, whose name is Nalikan, is to see whether the Stones be false or not, or whether they have any defect. These three men have obtain'd a Licence from the King, to view, before ever he does, whatever forreign Merchants shall bring to Court, and to present their goods to him themselves. And though they are under an Oath not to take any thing from the Merchants, yet they extort whatever they can get from them, though it be to their ruine. When they see any thing that is lovely, and likely to bring great profit, they would perswade you to sell it to them for less by half than the thing is worth; and if you refuse to let them have it, when they are in the Kings presence, they will set a price upon it at half the value; knowing that Aurengzeb is not very covetous of Jewels, loving his Money far better. Upon the Kings Festival-day, of which I shall speak in another place, all the Princes and Nobility of the Court pre∣sent him with most magnificent gifts. And when they cannot meet with Jewels, they send him Roupies of Gold, which the King likes far better than Stones; though Jewels are the more honourable present. Therefore when this Festival draws nigh, he issues out of his Treasury, a great quantity of Diamonds, Ru∣bies, Emraulds, and Pearls, which he who is entrusted to prize the Stones, de∣livers to several Merchants to sell to the Nobility, who are bound to present the King; by which means the King gets the Money and his Jewels again.

There is also another thing very disadvantageous to a Merchant Jeweller, which is, that when the King has seen the Stones, no Prince or Nobleman that knows of it, will ever buy them. Besides, while these three persons, who are entrusted to view the Jewels, are considering and examining them at their Lodgings, several Banians resort thither, who are expert, some in Diamonds, some in Rubies, some in Emraulds, and others in Pearls, who write down the weight, goodness, cleanness, and colour of every piece. So that when a Mer∣chant goes afterwards to any Prince or Governour of any Province, these people send them a note of what he has, and the price, which they set down at half the value. For in trade these Banians are a thousand times worse than the Jews; more expert in all sorts of cunning tricks, and more maliciously mischie∣vous in their revenge. Now you shall hear what a trick these unworthy peo∣ple serv'd me.

When I arriv'd at Gehanabad, one of them came to my Lodging, and told me, he had order from the King to see what I had brought, before I expos'd my goods in the Kings presence. They would have rather that the King had not been at Gehanabad, for they would have then endeavour'd to have bought them themselves, to gain thereby, by selling them again to the King, or the Nobility upon occasion; which they could never perswade me to. The next day they came to see me all three, one after another; and they would needs have of me, amongst other things, a Jewel of nine great Pearls, in the fashion of a Pear, the biggest whereof weigh'd thirty Carats, and the least sixteen; together with another single Pearl like a Pear, of fifty-five Carats. As for the Jewel, the King took it; but for the single Pearl, they finding that what∣ever they could say, I would not be wrought upon to sell them any bargains, so order'd it, that before I had shew'd my Jewels to the King, Giafer-Kan the Kings Uncle saw, and kept it, telling me he would give me as good a price as the King; and desir'd me not to speak of it, for indeed he had a de∣sign to make a present to the King.

When the King had made choice of such of my Jewels as he pleas'd, Giafer-Kan bought of me several pieces, and at the same time agreed with me for the great Pearl. Some days after he paid me, according as we had agreed, ex∣cept for the Pearl, upon which he would have abated me ten thousand Rou∣pies. For the two Persians and the Banian had malitiously inform'd him, that at my first arrival, they could have bought the Pearl for eight or ten thousand Roupies less than I had valu'd it to him; which was absolutely false. There∣upon Giafer-Kan telling me, that if I would not take his Money, I might have my Jewel again; I took him at his word, assuring him, he should never see it again as long as he liv'd. And I was as good as my word. And indeed that which made me the more resolute was, that I was resolv'd to carry some∣something

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which was considerable to Cha-Est-Kan; for could I have had my liber∣ty upon my arrival at Surat to have gone to him, I would never have seen the King at Gehanabad; about which I had a very great quarrel with the Go∣vernour of Surat. For when I came to visit him, he told me presently, that the case was alter'd from what it had been since my last being there, for that the King was resolv'd to have the first view of all Curiosities imported into his Kingdom. I was above four Months contending in vain with the Gover∣nour; but nothing would serve; I must go to the King, and for fear I should take another Road, he sent fifteen Horsemen along with me as far as Sha∣laour.

When I went for Bengala, these Overseers of the Jewels, our of meer spite, and, it may be, set on by Giafer-Kan, to be reveng'd of me for denying to let him have my Jewel, writ to Cha-Est-Kan, that I intended to shew him certain Jewels, among the rest a very fair Pearl, which I had sold to Giafer-Kan; but that he had given it me again, because he understood that I would have made him pay for it, ten thousand Roupies more than it was worth. They wrote also the particular proportion of all the other Stones which I carry'd. And upon this false and malicious advice it was, that Cha-Est-Kan, who receiv'd not this information till he had deliver'd me my Bill of Exchange, would abate me for my whole parcel, twenty thousand Roupies, which he reduc'd at length to ten thousand; and well I had it too.

Since I told you before, what a Present I gave to Cha-Est-Kam; I think it not amiss to tell you, what I gave the King, to Nahab Giafer-Kan, to the Eunuch of the Grand Begum, Aurengzeb's Sister, the Great Treasurer, and the Porters of the Treasury. For you must take notice, that whoever he be, that craves Audience of the King, they ask him in the first place, where the Pre∣sent is which he intends for the King; and examine whether it be fitting to present to his Majesty. For no man must come into his presence empty handed, though it be an honour dearly purchas'd. Coming then to Gehanabad, I went to make my obeisance to the King; and this is the Present which I made him.

In the first place, a Buckler of Brass highly emboss'd, and very richly guilt, the cost of the Guilding alone amounting to two hundred Ducats of Gold, or eighteen hundred Livres; the value of the whole piece coming to four thou∣sand three hundred seventy eight Livres. In the middle thereof was the story of Curtius, who threw himself and his Horse into the Barathrum, when the Earth gap'd, near Rome. Round the outermost Circle of the Buckler, was re∣presented the siege of Rochel. It was wrought by one of the best Workmen in France, by the order of Cardinal Richlieu. All the great Lords that were about Aurengzeb at that time, were charm'd at the beauty of the Workman∣ship, and told him, he could not do better, than to put it upon the great Elephant, which carry'd the Standard before his Majesty when he march'd into the Field.

I presented him also with a Battle-Axe of Chrystal of the Rock, the sides whereof were set with Rubies and Emraulds, enchas'd in Gold in the body of the Chrystal, which cost three thousand one hundred and nineteen Livres.

Moreover, I presented him with a Saddle after the Turky fashion, embroi∣der'd with little Rubies, Pearls, and Diamonds, which cost two thousand eight hundred and ninety-two Livres.

I presented him also with another Saddle and Foot-cloath, embroider'd with Gold and Silver, to the value of one thousand seven hundred and thirty Livres. The whole Present amounting to twelve thousand one hundred and nineteen Livres.

The Present which I made to Giafar-Kan, the Great Mogul's Unkle, was a Table, with other nineteen pieces to make a Cabinet, all nataurl Stones, of divers colours, representing the shapes of several Birds and Flowers. The work was made at Florence, and cost two thousand one hundred and fifty Livres.

A perfect Ruby Ring, which cost one thousand and three hundred Livres.

To the great Treasurer, I presented a Watch in a Gold Case, set with small Emraulds, at seven hundred and twenty Livres.

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To the Potters of the Kings Treasury, and those that deliver out the Mo∣ney out of the Treasury, two hundred Roupies, at three hundred Livres.

To the Eunuch of the Great Begum, Sister to Aurengzeb, a Watch in a painted Case, which cost two hundred and sixty Livres.

All these Presents which I made, as well to the Great Mogul, as to Cha-Est-Kan, Giaser-Kan, his Majesties Uncles; as also the Great Treasurer, to the Stewards of the Houses of the Kan's, and those that brought me twice the Calaat, or Habit of Honour from the King, and as many times from the Be∣gum his Sister, and once from Giafar Kan; all these Presents, I say, came to twenty-three thousand one hundred fourscore and seven Livres. So true it is, that they who have any business to do at the Court of the great Princes, as well in Turky as in Persia and in the Indies, must not pretend to do any thing in reference to their affairs, till they have their Presents, and those very con∣siderable, ready. Besides, that his Purse must be continually open to divers Officers of meaner reputation, who may be able to serve him. I did not mention in my first Volume the Present which I made to him that brought me the Calaat from the King of Persia, to whom I gave two hundred Crowns.

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