The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox

CHAP. IV. The Road from Surat to Agra, through Brampour and Seronge.

I Am no less well acquainted with all the principal Roads that lead to the chief Cities of India, than those of Turkey and Persia; for in six times that I have travell'd from Paris to Ispahan, I have gone twice for one from Ispahan to Agra, and many other places of the Great Mogul's Empire. But it would be tiresome to the Reader to carry him more than once the same way, on purpose to make a relation of every particular journey, and the accidents that accompany them: And therefore it will suffice to give an exact description of the Roads, without parti∣cularizing the distinct times that I went.

There are but two Roads from Surat to Agra, one through Brampour and Se∣ronge, the other through Amadabat. The first shall be the Subject of this Chap∣ter.

From Surat to Barnoly, costes 14

Barnoly is a great Borough-Town, where you are to ford a great River; and this first days journey you cross a mixt Countrey, part Wood, part through Fields of Wheat and Rice.

From Barnoly to Bahor, costes. 10

Bahor is also a large Village upon a Lake, about a league in compass. Upon the side whereof is to be seen a good substantial Fortress; though there be no use made of it. Three quarters of a league on this side the Village you ford a small River, though not without great difficulty, by reason of the Rocks and Stones that hazard the over-turning of the Coach. This second days-journey you travel almost altogether through Woods.

From Balor to Kerkoa, or as it is call'd at this day, Carvansera de la Begum, costes. 5

This Carvansera or Inn is very large and commodious; being built out of Cha∣rity by Begum-saheb the Daughter of Cha-jehan. For formerly the journey from Balor to Navapoura was too great: And this place being upon the Frontiers of those Raja's that sometimes will not acknowledg the Great Mogul, whose Vassals they are, there was no Caravan that past by which was not abused; besides that it is a wooddy-Countrey. Between Carvansera and Navapoura you ford a Ri∣ver; as also another very neer to Navapoura.

From Kerkoa to Navapoura, costes. 75

Navapoura is a great Town full of Weavers; but Rice is the greatest Com∣modity of that place. There runs a River through the Countrey, which makes it very fruitful, and waters the Rice, that requires moisture. All the Rice which grows in this Countrey has one peculiar quality, that makes it more particularly

esteem'd. The grain of it is less by one half, than the grain of the common Rice; and when it is boil'd, no snow is whiter; but besides all that, it smells of Musk; and all the Grandees of the Indians eat no other. When they would make an acceptable Present to any one in Persia, they send him a sack of this Rice. This River which passes by Kerkoa and those other places I have men∣tion'd, empties it self into the River of Surat.

From Navapoura to Nasarbar, costes. 9

From Nasarbar to Dol-medan, costes. 74

From Dol-medan to Senquera, costes. 7

From Senquera to Tallener, costes. 10

At Tallener you are to pass the River, which runs to Baroche; where it is very large, and empties it self into the Golf of Cambaya.

From Tallener to Choupre, costes. 15

From Coupre to Senquelis, costes. 13

From Senquelis to Nabir, costes. 10

From Nabir to Badelpoura, costes. 9

At Badelpoura it is, where the loaded Waggons pay the duties of Brampour; but the Waggons that carry nothing but Passengers, pay nothing.

From Badelpoura to Brampour, costes 5

Brampour is a great City, very much ruin'd, the Houses being for the most part thatch'd with straw. There is also a great Castle in the midst of the City, where the Governour lies; the Government of this Province is a very considera∣ble command; and is only conferr'd upon the Son or Unckle of the King. And Aureng-zeb, the present King, was a long time Governour of this Province in the Reign of his Father. But since they came to understand the strength of the Pro∣vince of Bengala, which formerly bore the Title of a Kingdom, that Province is now the most considerable in all the Mogul's Countrey. There is a great Trade in this City, and as well in Brampore, as over all the Province, there is made a prodigious quantity of Calicuts very clear and white, which are transported into Porsia, Turkey and Muscovia, Poland, Arabia, to Grand Cairo, and other places. There are some which are painted with several colours, with flowers, of which the Women make Veils and Scarfs; the same Calicuts serve for Coverlets of Beds, and for Handkerchiefs. There is another sort of Linnen which they never dye, with a stripe or two of Gold or Silver quite through the piece, and at each end from the bredth of one inch to twelve or fifteen, in some more, in some less, they fix a tissue of Gold, Silver, and Silk, intermix'd with Flowers, whereof there is no wrong-side, both sides being as fair the one as the other. If these pieces, which they carry into Poland, where they have a vast utterance, want at each end three or four inches at the least of Gold or Silver; or if that Gold or Silver become tarnish'd in being carried by Sea from Surat to Ormus, and from Trebizan to Mangala, or any other parts upon the Black-Sea, the Merchant shall have much ado to put them off without great loss. He must take care that his goods be packt up in good Bales, that no wet may get in; which for so long a Voyage requires great care and trouble. Some of these Linnens are made purposely for Swathbands or Shashes, and those pieces are call'd Ornis. They contain from 15 to 20 Ells; and cost from an hunderd to an hunderd and fifty Roupies, the least not being under ten or twelve ells. Those that are not above two ells long are worn by the Ladies of Quality for Veils and Scarfs, of which there is a vast quantity ven∣ded in Persia and Turkey. They make at Brampour also other sorts of Cotton-Linnen; for indeed there is no Province in all the Indies which more abounds in Cotton.

When you leave the City of Brampoure, you must pass another River, besides that which I have mention'd already. There is no Bridge, and therefore when the water is low, you ford it; when the rains fall, there are Boats attending.

From Surat to Brampour it is 132 Costes; and these Costes are very short in the Indies; for you may travel one of them in a Coach in less than an hour.

I remember a strange tumult at Brampoure, in the year 1641, when I re∣turned from Agra to Surat; the cause whereof was thus, in short: The Governour of the Province who was the King's Nephew by the Mother's-side, had among his Pages a young Boy that was very beautiful, and of a very good Family, who had a Brother in the City that liv'd as a Dervich; and for whom

all the Town had a very great veneration. One day the Governour, being alone in his Chamber, did all that lay in his power, by vertue of Gifts and Caresses, to have had the use of his Body; but the Boy detesting his abominable purpose, made his escape from him, and came and told his Brother. The Dervich, without deliberating what Councel he had to give his younger Brother, gave him a Sword, such a one as he might easily hide under his Garment; and told him, that if the Governour urg'd him any more, that he should make a shew of complying with him, but that when he went about to do the fact, he should be sure to run him into the Guts. The Governour, who knew nothing of what the Page had reveal'd to his Brother, ceas'd not every day to court him to consent to his infamous lust; and being one day alone with him in a small Apartment of a Banquetting-House, at the lower end of his Garden, he sent for his Page to fan him, and to keep off the Flies, after the fashion of the Country; for it was about noon, when every one goes to sleep. Then did the Governour begin again to press the young Page; and finding that he made no resistance, he thought he should suddenly accomplish his design. But the Page seeing him ready to commit the act, stab'd him three times into the Belly, before he could open his mouth to cry out for help. That done, the Page went out of the Palace, without any disturbance In his countenance; so that the Guards believ'd that the Governour had sent him out upon some errand. The Der∣vich understanding by his Brother what had pass'd, to save him from the fury of the people, and to discover the Infamy of the Governour, caus'd the rest of the Dervichs his Companions, to take the Banners of Mahomet, that were planted round the Mosquee; and at the same time with loud cries encourag'd all the rest of the Dervichs, Faquirs, and others that were good Mahumetans, to follow him. In less than an hours time he had got together an infinite multitude of the Rabble, and the Dervich marching at the head of them, they made directly to the Palace, crying out with all their might, Let us dye for Mahomet, or let us have that infamous person deliver'd up into our hands, to the end the Dogs may eat him after his death, not being worthy to be enterr'd among the Musselmen. The Guard of the Palace was not in a condition to resist so great a Multitude, so that they must have been forced to have yeilded to their fury, had not the Deroga of the Town, and some five or six Lords, found a way to make themselves to be heard, and to appease them, by representing to them, that they ought to have some respect to the Nephew of the King; by that means obliging them to retire. That night the Body of the Governour was sent to Agra, with his Haram; and Cha-jehan, who then reign'd, being inform'd of the accident, was not much troubl'd, because he is Heir to all the goods of his Subjects; and at the same time he bestow'd upon the Page a small Government in the Province of Bengala.

From Brampour to Piombi-sera, costes 5

Before we go any farther, you must take notice, that where-ever you meet with the word Sera, it signifies a great Enclosure of Walls and Hedges, within which are about fifty or sixty Huts, cover'd over with Straw. There are some men and women that there put to sale Flower, Rice, Butter, and Herbs, and make it their business to bake Bread and boil Rice. If there be any Mahu∣metan in that place, he will go to the City, and buy a little piece of Mut∣ton, or a Fowl; and those that sell Victuals to the Travellers, always cleanse the Hut which they take up, and put into it a little Bed with girths, to lay a Mattress or Quilt upon, which the Travellers carry along with them.

From Piombi-sera to Pander, costes 3

From Pander to Balki-sera, costes 6

From Balki-sera to Nevilki-sera, costes 5

From Nevilki-sera to Consemba, costes 5

From Consemba to Chenipore, costes 3

From Chenipore to Charava, costes 8

From Charava to Bich-ola, costes 8

From Bich-ola to Andy, costes 4

At Andy you must pass a River that falls into Ganges, between Banarou and Patna.

From Andi to Onquenas, costes 4

From Onquenas to Tiquery, costes 5

From Tiquery to Tool-meden, costes 4

From Tool-meden to Nova-sera, costes 4

From Nova-sera to Ichavour, costes 4

From Ichavour to Signor, costes 5

From Signor to Chekaipour, costes 3

From Chekaipour to Dour-ay, costes 3

From Dour-ay to Aser-kaira, costes 3

From Aser-kaira to Telor, costes 3

From Telor to San-kaira, costes 3

From San-kaira to Seronge, costes 12

Seronge is a great City, the most part of the Inhabitants whereof are Banian Merchants, and Handicraft-trades-men from Father to Son, which is the reason that there are in this City several Houses of Stone and Brick. There is also a great Trade for all sorts of painted Calicuts, which are called Chites; which is the cloathing of all the meaner sort of people both in Persia and Turkey: Of which in other Countreys also they make use, for Coverlets for Beds, and Table-napkins. They make the same sort of Calicuts in other Countreys as well as at Seronge, but the colours are not so lively; besides, that they wear out with often wash∣ing. Whereas those that are made at Seronge, the more you wash them the fairer the colours shew. There runs a River by the City, the water whereof has that vertue, that it gives that beauty and liveliness to the colours. And all the while the rains fall, the Workmen will make these prints upon their Cottons, ac∣cording to the Patterns which the Forreign Merchants give them; for when the waters are ceas'd the water is the thicker; and the oftener they dip their Cali∣cuts, the better the colours hold.

There is also made at Seronge another sort of Calicut, which is so fine, that when a man puts it on, his skin shall appear through it, as if he were naked. The Mer∣chants are not permitted to transport it. For the Governour sends it all to the Se∣raglio of the Great Mogul, and to the principal Lords of the Court. Of this, the Sultanesses, and great Noblemen's Wives make them Shifts and Garments in hot-weather: And the King and the Lords take great pleasure to behold them in those Shifts, and to see them Dance with nothing else upon their Bodies.

From Brampore to Seronge is an hundred and one costes, which are longer than those from Surat to Brampore; for the Coach is a full hour, and sometimes five quarters, going one of these costes. In these hundred leagues of the Countrey you travel whole days journeys along by most fertil Fields of Corn and Rice, be∣ing lovely Champaign, where you meet with very little Wood; and from Seronge to Agra, the Countrey is much of the same nature: And because the Villages lye thick together, your journey is the more pleasant; besides, that you may rest when you please.

From Seronge to Madalki-sera, costes. 6

From Madalki-sera to Poulki-sera, costes. 2

From Poulki-sera to Kasariki-sera, costes. 3

From Kasariki-sera to Chadolki-sera, costes. 6

From Chadolki-sera to Callabas, costes. 6

Callabas is a great Town, which was formerly the Residence of a Raja, who paid Tribute to the Great Mogul. But when Orang-zeb came to the Crown, he not only cut off his, but a great number of the heads of his Subjects. There are two Towers near the Town, upon the high-way, and round about the Towers are several holes, like windows; and in every hole, two foot distant one from ano∣ther, there is fix'd a man's head. In my last Travels in the year 1665, it had not been long since that Execution had been done; for then all the Heads were whole, and caus'd a very ill smell.

From Callabas to Akmate, costes 2

From Akmate to Collasar, costes 9

Collasar is a little Town, all the Inhabitants whereof are Idolaters. As I past through it upon my last Travels, there were brought to it eight Pieces of Ar∣tillery, the one carrying 48 pound-Bullet, the rest 36. Every Piece was drawn

by 24 Yoke of Oxen. A very strong Elephant follow'd the Artillery, and when they came to any bad-way, where the Oxen were at a stand, they brought up the Elephant, who heav'd the Cannon forward with his Trunk. Without the Town, all along the high-way, there grows a vast number of great Trees, which they call Mangues; and in many places neer the Trees are to be seen little Pagods, with every one an Idol at the door. The Elephant passing by one of the Pagods, before which I was lodg'd, at the door whereof there stood three Idols about five foot high; so soon as he came near one, he took it up in his trunk, and broke it in two pieces; the next he took, he threw it up so high, and so far, that he broke it in four pieces; and carried away the head of the third along with him. Some thought that the Governour of the Elephant had taught him what to do, and made signs to him, which however I did not observe; nevertheless the Banians were very much offended, though they durst not say any thing; for there was a Guard of above two thousand men that convoy'd the Artillery, all Souldiers of the King, and Mahometans, besides Franguis, or Franks, English and Hollanders that were Cannoneers. The King sent this Artillery to his Army in Decan, being at Wars with the Raja Sova-gi, who the year before had plunder'd Surat; of whom I shall have occasion to speak in another place.

From Collasar to Sansele, costes 6

From Sansele to Dongry, costes 4

From Dongry to Gate, costes 3

Gate is a strait passage of the Mountains, a quarter of a league in length, the descent whereof leads from Surat to Agra. At the entry thereof you see the ruins of two or three Castles, and the Road is so narrow, that two Waggons can hardly go a breast. They that come from the South to go to Agra, as from Su∣rat, Goa, Visapore, Golconda, Maslipatan, and other places, cannot avoid these streights, there being no other Road but this, especially if you take the Road from Amadabat. Formerly there was a Gate at each end of the streight, and at that end which is next to Agra, there are five or six Shops of Banians, that sell Flower, Butter, Rice, Herbs and Pulse. In my last Travels I staid at one of these Shops, to carry for the Coaches and Waggons, all the Passengers alighting at the foot of the Streights. Not far off there is a great Magazin full of sacks of Rice and Corn; and behind every sack lay a Serpent thirteen or fourteen foot long, and proportionable in bigness. A Woman that went to fetch Corn out of one of those sacks, was bitten by one of those Serpents, and perceiving her self wounded, ran out of the Magazin, crying out Ram, Ram, that is, O God, O God; whereupon several Banians, men and women came running to her relief, and bound her arm very hard above the wound, thinking to stop the venom from run∣ning any higher. But all in vain, for immediately her face swell'd, and turn'd black, and she dy'd in less than an hour. The Ragipou's, who are the best Souldiers among the Indians, and are all Idolaters, came in just as the woman was expiring, and about four of them entring with their Skains, and Half-pikes in their hands into the Magazin, kill'd the Serpent. The people of the Village took and threw it without the Town, and immediately there came a great number of Birds of prey, which lighting upon the Carrion, devour'd it in less than an hours time. The Pa∣rents of the woman took her body, carri'd it to the River, wash'd it, and then burnt it. I was forc'd to stay two days at that place, because there was a River to pass, which instead of falling, swell'd at that time, by reason of the rains that fell for three or four days together: So that I was constrain'd to go half a league lower before I could cross it. They always endeavour'd to ford this River; for otherwise they must be compell'd to unload the Waggon into the Boats; and also to carry the Goods in their arms for above half a league, which is worse way than can be imagin'd. The people get their livings by the Passengers, from whom they extort as much as they can, there being none but they that know the ways: Otherwise it would be an easy thing to make a Bridg, there being no want either of Wood or Stone near at hand. For the passage is nothing but thorough Rocks, that lie between the Mountain and the River; so that the waters when they swell, overflow all the Road, in-so-much that no-body can pass it, but they who are very well acquainted with it.

From Gate to Nader, costes 4

Nader is a great City upon the descent of a Mountain, at the top whereof is a kind of a Fortress; all the Mountain being encompast with walls. The greatest part of the Houses, as in all other Cities of India, are thatch'd with straw, one Story high; but the Rich-men's Houses, are two Stories, and terrass'd. Round about the City are several great Ponds to be seen, which were formerly encom∣past with hewn-stone, but now are not at all look'd after; yet there are very fair Monuments about them. The same River which we past the day before, and which we repass four or five Costes on this side Nader, encompasses three parts of the City and Mountain, like a Peninsula, and after a long winding-course which it takes, falls at length into Ganges. At Nader they make a great quantity of quilted-Coverlets, some white, others embroidered with Flowers of Gold, Silk and Satin.

From Nader to Barqui-sera, costes 9

From Barqui-sera to Trie, costes 3

From Trie to Goualeor, costes 6

Goualeor is a great City ill-built, like all the rest, after the manner of the In∣dians; it is built all along the side of a Mountain that lies upon the West-side of it; and which at the top is encompast with Walls and Towers. There are in this Enclosure several Ponds made by the rains; and what they sow there is sufficient to keep the Garrison: For which reason it is esteem'd one of the best in the In∣dies. Upon the descent of the Hill, which looks towards the North-east, Cha∣jehan built an House of Pleasure; from whence there is a Prospect over all the City, and indeed it may serve for a Garrison. Below the House are to be seen se∣veral Idols cut out of the Rock, representing the shapes of their Gods: And among the rest, there is one of an extraordinary heighth.

Since the Mahometan Kings became Masters of this Countrey, this Fortress of Goualeor is the place where they secure Princes and great Noblemen. Cha-jehan coming to the Empire by foul-play, caus'd all the Princes and Lords whom he mistrusted, to be seiz'd one after another, and sent them to the Fortress of Goua∣leor; but he suffer'd them all to live, and enjoy their Estates, Aureng-zeb his Son acts quite otherwise: For when he sends any great Lord to this place, at the end of nine or ten days he orders him to be poison'd; and this he does that the peo∣ple may not exclaim against him for a bloody Prince. So soon as he had in his clutches Prince Morat-Bakche his youngest Brother, whom he engaged to take Arms against his Father Cha-jehan; and who being Governour of the Province of Guzerat, took upon him the Title of King, he sent him to this Fortress, where he dy'd. They have made him a most magnificent Monument in the City in a Mosquee, which they built on purpose, with a great Piazza before it all sur∣rounded with Vaults and Shops over them. For it is the custom of the Indians, when they rear any publick Building, to make a great Piazza before it, where they keep their Markets, with a Foundation for the Poor, to whom they give Alms every day, as being to pray to God for him that rais'd the Fabrick.

Five Cost's from Goualeor, you ford a River which is call'd Lantké.

From Goualeor to Paterki-sera, costes 3

From Paterki-sera to Quariqui-sera, costes 10

There is a Bridg at Paterki-sera, consisting of six wide Arches; and the River you go over is call'd Quarinado.

From Quariki-sera to Dolpoura, costes 6

At Dolpoura there is a great River which is call'd Chammelnadi, to which there belongs a Ferry-Boat: The River it self falls into the Gemena between Agra and Halabas.

From Dolpoura to Minasqui-sera, costes 6

At Minasqui-sera there is a River, which is call'd Jagounadi. You pass it over a very long Bridg, built of Stone, the name whereof is Jaoulcapoul.

From Minasqui-sera to this Bridg, costes 8

Not far from this Bridg it is, that they view the Merchants Goods, that when they come to Agra they may not be deceiv'd of their duties. But more parti∣cularly to see whether among the Casks of Fruits pickl'd in Vinegar, in pots of Glass, there be no flasks of Wine.

From the Bridg Jaoulcapoul to Agra, costes

So that from Seronge to Agra it is an hundred and six Costes, which are ordinary leagues; and from Surat to Agra, 339.