The six voyages of John Baptista Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne through Turky, into Persia and the East-Indies, for the space of forty years : giving an account of the present state of those countries, viz. of the religion, government, customs, and commerce of every country, and the figures, weight, and value of the money currant all over Asia : to which is added A new description of the Seraglio / made English by J.P. ; added likewise, A voyage into the Indies, &c. by an English traveller, never before printed ; publish'd by Dr. Daniel Cox

THE SECOND BOOK OF THE PERSIAN TRAVELS OF MONSIEUR TAVERNIER: Containing the several ROADS From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Capital CITY of PERSIA; Through the Southern Provinces of TURKI, and through the DESERTS. (Book 2)

CHAP. I. The second Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ispahan: and first; of his Embarking at Marseilles for Alexandretta.

THE Road from Constantinople to Erivan, which with all those other Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkie, the first time I travel'd into Persia, I have amply describ'd. It behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces, and of those through the Deserts, where there are several Emirs, or Arabian Princes, of which several are very potent: For there are some of them that can bring 30000 Horse into the Field, five of which I have had the honour to discourse, and to oblige them with small Presents; in recompence whereof they sent me Rice, Mutton, Dates, and Sherbet, as long as I staid among them.

I embark'd at Marseilles in a Holland Vessel that carry'd five and forty Guns, from thence we set sail for Malta. At Malta we staid twelve days to carine the Vessel, and to take in fresh Victuals. Among the rest we bought two thousand Quails, for there are a prodigious quantity in the Iland: but in two or three days we found five or six hundred of them destroy'd by the Vermin that pester'd the Ship.

From Malta we set sail for Larneca, a good Road in the Iland of Cypras, to the West of Famagosta, which is not above a days journey from it by Land. As we were making into the Road, about two or three hours after midnight, we perceiv'd a Vessel close upon us, and both the Ships Company began to cry out, for fear of falling foul one upon another, but the Vessel sheer'd clear without any harm on either side.

In the morning we cast Anchor, and went a-shoar. It is a good half League from the Road where the Consuls and Merchants, both English, Hollanders, and French, live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monastery of Capuchins, who officiate in the Chappel of the French Consul; and another of Religious Italians, that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem. We staid but two days at Larneca; the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himself what business they might have for him at his return; it being usual to then to take in spun and unspun Cottons, together with course Wool for Mattresses.

From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coast of Syria, we had the Wind very favourable; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, instead of carrying us to Alexandretta, it cast us to the Northward, two or three Leagues higher, upon the Coast of Cilicia, toward a Town call'd Païasses. Half a League from that City lyes a vast Rock, and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea: And here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale cast up Jonas again; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Joppa in Palestine. All along that Coast from Alexandretta to Païasses, and farther, the way is so narrow and straiten'd by the Mountain, that in some parts the Camels and Horses must dip their Feet in the Sea: and yet you must pass that way of necessity, travelling from Syria to Constantinople. Between Alexandretta and Païasses it was, that the Chevalier Paul, in a Vessel that carry'd only three hundred Men, miss'd but little of surprizing the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt to Constantinople, which since hath never been sent by Sea for fear of the Maltesi. This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambuscade; but unfortunately his Design was discover'd, so that the Caravan, that might have been easily surpriz'd, stood upon their Guard.

We were near the Coast, when we discover'd a Skiff with fifteen or sixteen Turks, that were sent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the Customary Present from our Captain. Those Galleys then anchor'd at Païasses, and had there discharg'd themselves of their Provisions of War for Bagdat, which the Grand Signor was going to besiege. And it is the custom, that when the Great Turk's Galleys are out at Sea, that whatever strange Vessel passes by them must send them a Present, either willingly or by force. When the Basha of the Sea, who is the Admiral of the Turks, is in Person at Sea, the Vessel which he meets is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns: so that when he sets out from Constantinople to cruise, the Vessels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are some that will seek to escape in sight of the Galleys, but it has cost them dear. And it happen'd, that one day the Wind slackning, they boarded a Vessel of Marseilles, the Captain and Notary whereof were both seiz'd, and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almost bruis'd to a Gelly, and they had like to have dy'd upon it, without being the better in their Purses; for the rudeness of the Chastisement did not excuse them from paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour, he laugh'd at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had no Presents for them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys, who soon deliver'd us from the true fear we were in, that the gallantry of the Captain had drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea close by the Coast, to observe the Countenances of the Turks, they weigh'd Anchor, and turn'd their Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they sent us a Broad-side, and our Captain, whatever we could say, sent them another, which render'd us more guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, and that a strange Vessel is in fight, she is bound to come as near as the Wind will permit her without being hal'd, for which they will otherwise make the Commander pay very severely. The Consuls and Merchants of Aleppo understanding what had pass'd, very much blam'd the Captain, fearing a worse consequence of the business: But by good fortune, the miscarriage was stifl'd and never went farther.

The same day the Wind veering to the West-North-West, we sail'd into the Road of Alexandretta, where we came to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Christendom, so soon as they of Alexandretta discover a Vessel, and know what Colours she carries, the Vice-Consul of the Nation to which the Vessel belongs, fails not to advertise the

Consul of Aleppo, by a Note which is carr'yd in four or five hours; though it be more than two or three days journey on Horse-back. For they tye a Note under the Wing of a Pigeon, who is taught what to do, and she flies directly to the place whence she was brought. For more surety, they usually send two, that if the one should miscarry i'the dark, which has many times happen'd, the other may supply the defect.

Alexandretta is nothing else but a confus'd heap of paltry Houses, inhabited by the Greeks, who keep little Fudling-schools, for the Mariners and others, the meaner sort of the people: for the Merchants lye at the Vice-Consuls of the Nation. There were but two then, the English Vice-Consul and the French; who had each of them a very convenient dwelling. However they must be Men who love Money at a strange rate, that accept of those Employments. For the Air, like that of Ormus, is generally so bad, especially in the Summer, in so much that they who do not dye, cannot avoid very dangerous Distempers. If there be any so strong that they can hold out for three or four Years, and can accustom themselves to bad Air, they do well to stay there; for for them to betake themselves to a good Air, is to hazard their Lives. Mr. Philips the English Consul has been the only Person that ever liv'd two and twenty Years at Alexandretta: but you must know he was a brisk merry Man, and of an excellent temper of Body; and yet for all that he had been forc'd to be cauteriz'd. That which renders the Air so bad, is the great quantity of standing Pools and Plashes in the neighbouring Plains, extending to the East and South; but when the great Heats begin to approach, the most part of the Inhabi∣tants retire to a Village call'd Belan, upon the next Mountain to the City, where there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits. They come also thither from Aleppo, when there is any appearance of a Pestilence; and yet there are few people in this Village who are not troubl'd with a sort of Fever, that makes their Eyes look yellow and hollow; which they never can remedy as long as they live.

About half a League from Alexandretta, on the right band of the High-way, just against the Mersh on the other side, is a Tower whereon are to be seen the Arms of Godfrey of Bulloign. In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the High-way, which is enclos'd between these two Mershes, whose Exhalations are very noxious.

It is but three little days journey from Alexandretta to Aleppo, and some well mounted have rid it in two. The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot. For before that Prohibition, in regard the way was short, every Sea-man that had a hundred Crowns, more or less, went on Foot to Aleppo, and got easily thither in three days, with little expence. Now because they had but little Money to spend, and were willing to dispatch their business, they would not stand to give Four or Five in the Hundred extraordinary for what Goods they bought, which was of dangerous consequence to the Merchants. For you must observe, that when the Ships arrive, the first Man that either out of rashness or ignorance, gives two Sous more for a Commodity that is not worth a Crown, sets the Price, and causes all the whole Commodity to be sold at that rate. So that the Merchants that lay out ten or twelve thousand Crowns together, are very careful lest those Saylors should get before them, and enhance the Price of the Market.

To remedy which inconvenience, the Merchants obtain'd an Order, That no Strangers should be permitted to go a-foot from Alexandretta to Aleppo, but that they should be bound to hire Horses, and to give for every Horse six Plasters thither, and six back; which expence would soon eat out the Profit of a poor Ma∣riner's small Sum.

Usually you stay at Alexandretta three or four days, as well to rest your self, as to make some little Provisions for your Journey to Aleppo. For though you meet with good Stages at Evening, yet the Janizaries will be very glad to eat by the way.

Setting out from Alexandretta, we travel'd over a Plain to the foot of a Mountain which is call'd Belan. There is a wide Gap in the midst of this Mountain, which giving liberty to the North-East Wind, when it blows hard, doth so enrage the Road of Alexandretta, which is otherwise very calm, that no Ship can ride there at that time. In so much that all Ships that happ'n to be there when the Wind rises, presently weigh, and get out to Sea, for fear of being cast away. Almost at

the top of the Mountain you meet with an Inn; but though it be a very fair one, with Fountains round about it, yet Merchants never stop there, but go on a little farther to a Grecian that speaks good Italian, and whose entertainment is indifferent good, considering the Country. When you go away, you give him a Crown for your accommodation, which is the manner at other Stages, by a custom, which the Franks themselves having establish'd, will never be left off.

Descending down the Mountain you discover the City of Antioch, built upon a Hill. Formerly the Road lay through that City, but the Janizaries of the place exacting a Piaster from every person that travel'd that way, that Road is now disus'd. Antioch once made more noise in the World, being fal'n to ruine ever since the Channel, that ran from the City to the Sea, where Galleys might ride, has been stop'd up by the Sands that have encroach'd upon the Mouth of the Haven.

When you are at the bottom of the Hill toward the North, you discover a Castle built upon a Hill standing by it self, from whence you have a prospect over a good part of the Plain of Antioch. It is about fifteen Leagues long, and three broad, in that part where the Road lyes. Somewhat more than half the way, you meet with a long Causey parted by several Bridges, by reason of certain Rivulets that cross it, without which the Road were hardly passable. The frequent Revolts of Bagdat and Balsara, which the Grand Signor has been forc'd so often to besiege, caus'd the Grand Visier in the Reign of Achmat to undertake this Causey, which together with the Bridge was finish'd in six Months, that was lookt upon as a Mira∣cle. This was done for the more easie passage of the Artillery, and other Provisions of War, that were brought out of Romania and Greece to the Siege of Bagdat, which could never have been done, but for this Causey. At the end of this Causey stands a Bridge, very long and strongly built, under which runs a River, which, with the other Rivulets that wind about the Plain, forms a Lake toward the South, that is call'd the Lake of Antioch. This Lake affords a great Revenue, by reason of the Eels that are caught there, which are taken two Months before Lent, and transported to Malta, Sicily, and other parts of Italy.

This Plain is very full of Olive-Trees; which produces that great Trade of Soap, that is made at Aleppo, and transported into Mesopotamia, Chaldea, Persia, and the Desert; that Commodity being one of the most acceptable Presents that can be made to the Arabians. Sallet-Oyl is also in great esteem among them: so that when you make them a Present of it, they will take off their Bonnets, and rub their Heads, their Faces, and their Beards with it, lifting up their Eyes to Heaven, and cry in their Language, God be thank'd. Therein they have lost nothing of the ancient custom of the Eastern People, of which there is often mention made in Holy Scripture.

About a League and a half beyond the Plain, you meet with a Rock, at the foot whereof is a little deep Lake, wherein they catch a world of Fish that are like our Barbels. I have kill'd them with my Pistol; and found them to be of an excellent tast; though they are not regarded at Aleppo.

Two hours after, you ford a River which is call'd Afrora; though if it have hap∣pen'd to rain, you must stay 'till the Waters are fal'n. Having past the River, upon the Banks whereof you stay to feed your self and your Horses, you come to lye at a poor Village call'd Shaquemin, where there is an Inn. Here the Country∣people bring Provisions of Food to the Travellers; and whether you eat or no, you must pay a Piaster, according to the custom which the Franks have establish'd. After you have pass'd the Plain of Antioch as far as Shaquemin, the Horses in Summer are so terribly tormented with a sort of great Flies, that it were impossible to travel three or four hours together, were it not for going out of the Road, either to the right, or to the left, and riding through the Fields, which are full of those Burrs that our Clothworkers make use of: For in regard they grow as high as the Crupper of the Horse, they keep the Flies off from stinging and tyring the Horses.

Leaving the Village of Shaquemin, the Road lyes among Stones; and for half this tedious way, for two or three Leagues round about, you see nothing but the Ruines of ancient Monasteries. There are some of them which are built almost all of Free-stone; and about half a days journey toward the North, quite out of the Road, stands the Monastery of St. Simeon the Stylite, with the remainder of his so

famous Pillar, which is still to be seen. The Franks that travel to Aleppo, usually go out of their way to see that place. That which I find most entire, and worthy observation among the Ruines of those Monasteries, is the number of arch'd Cisterns of Free-stone, which time has not defac'd.

From Shaquemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare, where every Travel∣ler isentertain'd for his Piaster, as at the other Stages. Between the other Villages it is ten hours journey; but between Angare and Aleppo, but three. We alighted at the French Consul's House, at what time the Customers came presently to search our Cloak-bags; after which we went to the Quaissery, which is a place where all Strangers are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themselves, and a quarter so much for every Servant, and are well entertain'd.

CHAP. II. The Description of Aleppo, now the Capital City of Syria.

A Leppo is one of the most famous Cities in all Turkie, as well for the bigness and beauty of it, as for the goodness of the Air, and plenty of all things; together with the great Trade which is driv'n there by all the Nations of the World. It lyes in 71 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude, and 36 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude, in an excellent Soil. With all the search that I could make, I could never learn how it was anciently call'd. Some would have it to be Hierapolis, others Beroea: and the Christians of the Country agree with the latter. The Arabian Historians that record the taking of it, call it only Aleb, not mentioning any other name. Whence this Observation is to be made, That if the Arabians call it Aleb, others Alep; the reason is, because the Arabians never use the Letter P in their Language. This City was tak'n by the Arabians in the fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet, which was about the Year of CHRIST 637, in the Reign of Heraclius Emperour of Constantinople.

The City is built upon four Hills, and the Castle upon the highest that stands in the middle of Aleppo, being supported by Arches in some places, for fear the Earth should tumble and moulder away from it. The Castle is large, and may be about five or six hundred Paces in compass. The Walls and Towers, though built of Free-stone, are of little defence. There is but one Gate to enter into it from the South, over a Draw-bridge, laid over certain Arches cross a Moat about six or seven Fathom deep. There is but one half of it full of Water, and that a standing Puddle to boot; the rest is a meer dry Ditch: so that it cannot be accounted a wholsom place. However there is Water brought into the Castle through a large Pipe from the Fountains in the City: and there is a strong Garrison kept in it.

The City is above three Miles in circuit, and the best half of it is unmoated; that Moat there, is not above three Fathom deep. The Walls are very good, and all of Free-stone; with several square Towers, distant one from the other about fourscore Paces; between which there are others also that are less. But these Walls are not all of them of an equal height, for in some places they are not above four Fathoms from the Ground. There are ten Gates to enter into the City, without either Moat or Draw-Bridge; under one of which there is a place that the Turks have in great veneration; where they keep Lamps continually burning, and report that Elisha the Prophet liv'd for some time.

There is no River that runs through Aleppo; and but only a small one without the City, which the Arabians call Coïc. However, though indeed it be but pro∣perly a Rivulet, yet it is very useful to water the Gardens, where grows an abundance of Fruit, particularly Pistaches, much bigger, and better tasted than those that comes from the parts near Casbin. But though there be no River, yet there are store of Fountains and Receptacles of Water, which they bring from two places distant from the City.

The Edifices, neither publick nor private, are very handsom, but only within∣side; the Walls are of Marble of several colours, and the Cieling of Foliage Fret-work, with Inscriptions in Gold'n Letters. Without and within the City there are six and twenty Mosquees, six or seven whereof are very magnificent, with stately Duomo's, three being cover'd with Lead. The chiefest and largest of all, was a Christian Church which they call'd Alhha, or Listen'd unto: which is thought to have been built by St. Helen. In one part of the Suburbs also stands another Mosquee, which was formerly a Christian Church. In that there is one thing worthy observation. In the Wall upon the right side of the Gate, there is a Stone to be seen two or three Foot square, wherein there is the figure of a hand∣som Chalice, and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it, with a Crescent that covers the Sacrifice, the two Horns whereof descend just upon the brims of the mouth of the Chalice. One would think at first that those Figures were in Mosaïc-Work: but it is all Natural, as I have found with several other Franks, having scrap'd the Stone with an Iron Instrument, when the Turks were out of the way. Several Consuls would have bought it, and there has been offer'd for it 2000 Crowns; but the Basha's of Aleppo would never suffer it to be sold. Half a League from the City lyes a pleasant Hill, where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the side of that Hill is to be seen a Cave or Grotto, where the Turks report that Haly liv'd for some few days; and for that there is an ill-shap'd figure of a Hand imprinted in the Rock, they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly.

There are three Colledges in Aleppo, but very few Scholars, though there be Men of Learning that belong to them, who have Salaries to teach Grammar, and their odd kind of Philosophy, with the Grounds of their Religion, which are the Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themselves.

The Streets of the City are all pav'd, except the Bazar's, where the Merchants and Handicraft-Tradesmen keep their Shops. The chiefest Artists, and the most numerous, are Silk and Chamlet-Weavers.

In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns; and fifty publick Baths, as well for Women as for Men, keeping their turns. 'Tis the chiefest Pastime the Women have to go to the Baths; and they will spare all the Week long to carry a Collation, when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themselves, in those places of privacy.

The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopl'd, for almost all the Christians have their Houses and Churches there. Of which Christians there are four sorts in Aleppo, I mean of Eastern Christians, that is to say, Greeks, Armenians, Jacobites or Syrians, and Maronites. The Greeks have an Archbishop there, and are about fifteen or sixteen thousand in number; their Church is dedicated to St. George: The Armenians have a Bishop, whom they call Vertabet; and are about twelve thou∣sand in number; their Church is dedicated to the Virgin. The Jacobites being about ten thousand, have a Bishop also; and their Church is likewise dedicated to the Virgin, as is that of the Armenians. The Maronites depend upon the Pope, not being above twelve hundred; their Church being consecrated to St. Elias. The Roman Catho∣licks have three Churches, serv'd by the Capuchins, Carmelites, and Jesuites. They reckon that in the Suburbs and City of Aleppo there are about 250000 Souls.

There is a vast Trade at Aleppo for Silks and Chamlets; but chiefly for Gall-Nuts, and Valanede, which is a sort of Acorn-shell without which the Curriers cannot dress their Leather. They have also a great Trade for Soap, and for several other Com∣modities; the Merchants repairing thither from all parts of the World. For not to speak of the Turks, Arabians, Persians, Indians, there are several English, Italians, French, and Hollanders, every Nation having their Consul to carry on their Interests, and maintain their Priviledges.

Nor does this place happ'n to be so great a Mart, through the convenience of the two Rivers of Tigris and Euphrates, as some have writt'n; by which they say such vast quantities of Commodities are transported and imported out and into the City. For had that been, I should never have cross'd the Desert, coming from Bagdat to Aleppo; nor at another time, going from Aleppo to Balsara. And as for Euphrates, certain it is, that the great number of Mills built upon it, to bring the Water to the neighbouring Grounds, have not only render'd it unnavigable, but made it very dangerous.

I must confess, that in the year 1638 I saw a great part of the Grand Signor's Army, and several Boats full of Warlike Provisions fall down the Stream, when he went to besiege it: but then they were forc'd to take away all the Mills that are upon the River; which was not done without a vast trouble and expence. As for Tigris, it is not navigable 'till beyond Babylon down to Balsara; where you may take Water, and be at Balsara in nine days. But the Voyage is very inconvenient, for at every Town which the Arabs have upon the River, you must be hal'd, and be forc'd to leave some Money behind you. Sometimes indeed the Merchants of Moussul and Bagdat, and others that come out of Chaldea to Trade at Balsara, carry their Goods by Water from Bagdat; but in regard the Boats are only to be tow'd by Men, it takes them up a Voyage of seventy days. By this you may judge of the time and expence of carrying Goods by Water up the River Euphrates to Bir, where they are to be unlad'n for Aleppo.

In short, if the convenience of Morat-sou (for so the Turks call Euphrates) were to be had, and that Goods might be transported by that River, the Merchants would never take that way: for the Arabian Princes, with their People and their Cattel, lying all the Summer long upon the Banks of the River, for the sake of the Water and the Grass, would make the Merchants pay what Toll they pleas'd them∣selves.

I saw an Example of this, coming one time from Babylon to Aleppo. In all which Road we met but with one of those Arabian Princes, who lay at Anna: yet he made us pay for every Camel's Load forty Piasters. And which was worse, he detain'd us above five Weeks, to the end his Subjects might get more of our Money by selling us their Provisions. The last time I pass'd the Desert, I met another of these Arabian Princes together with his Brother, both young Men: He would not let us go a step farther, unless we would exchange two hundred Piasters in specie for Larins, the Money of the Country; and he forc'd us to take them, what-ever we could urge to make it appear how much we should lose by them. And indeed we said as much as we could, for the dispute lasted two and twenty days to no purpose; might overcoming right. By this you may guess what the other Arabians would do, who are not a jot more civil; and whether the Merchants would get by taking the Road of Euphrates.

The City is govern'd by a Basha, who commands all the Country from Alexan∣dretta to Euphrates. His Guard usually consists of three hundred Men, and some years ago he was made a Vizier. There is also an Aga or Captain of the Cavalry, as well within the City as without, who commands four hundred Men. There is another Aga who has under him seven hundred Janizaries, who has the charge of the Gates of the City; to whom the Keys are carry'd every Evening, neither has he any dependance upon the Basha. The Castle is also under another Commander, sent immediately from Constantinople, who has under him two hundred Musketeers, and likewise the charge of the Cannon; of which there are about thirty Pieces; eight great Guns, the rest of a small size. There is also another Aga or Captain of the City, who commands three hundred Harquebuzes; beside a Sou-Bashi, who is a kind of Provost of the Merchants, or Captain of the Watch, going the round every Night with his Officers through the City and Suburbs. He also puts in Execution the Sentences of the Basha, upon Criminal Offenders.

In Civils there is a Cadi, who sits sole Judge, without any Assistants, of all Causes as well Civil as Criminal; and when he has condemn'd any Man to Death, he sends him to the Basha, together with his Accusation, with whom the Basha does as he pleases. This Cady makes and dissolves all Contracts of Marriage; all Acts of Sale and Purchase pass in his presence. He also creates the sworn Masters of every Trade, who make their inspection that there may be no deceit in the Work. The Grand Signor's Duties are receiv'd by a Tefterdar, or Treasurer-General, who has under him several Receivers in divers places.

In matters of Religion, the Mufti is the Chief, and the Interpreter of the Law, as well in relation to the Ceremonies, as in all Ecclesiastical differences. Among these Interpreters of the Law there is a Chieke or Doctor, appointed to instruct those that are newly converted to Mahumetanism, and to teach them the Maxims and Customs of their Religion.

Three days after I arriv'd at Aleppo, Sultan Amurat made his Entry, going to

his Army, which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon. Now you must take notice, that not far from Aleppo, toward the East, there stands a House inha∣bited by the Dervies, which are a Religious Order among the Turks; though it for∣merly belong'd to the Monks of St. Basil, and was a fair Covent. It is still in good repair, the Walls of the Chambers, Halls, and Galleries being all of Marble. All the Dervies of this House went half a League from the City, as far as Mount Ozelet, to meet the Grand Signor; and the Superiour, at the Head of the rest, having made a Speech to his Highness, two Dervies came and made their obeisance in particular. Which being perform'd, from that place to the Castle of Aleppo, for half an hours march together; they went just before the Grand Signor's Horse, turning round continually with all their might, 'till they soam'd again at the Mouth, and dazl'd the Eyes of those that beheld them. There are some of these Dervies that will turn in that manner for two hours together, and glory in that which we account folly.

While the Grand Signor staid at Aleppo, the Basha of Cayro came thither with a thousand Janizaries: And indeed, there never was a sight of Men more active, or better order'd. Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reach'd down to their Ancles, with a Turkie-Robe of English Cloth, and, a Wast-coat of Calicut painted with several Colours. The most part had Buttons of Gold and Silk; and as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorn'd with Silver. The Basha march'd at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modest Garb; but the Harness of his Horse was as rich as his Habit seem'd to be careless, having spar'd for no Cost to appear before the Grand Signor in a stately Equipage.

There is a necessity for a Man to stay some time at Aleppo, as well to dispose of his Affairs, and in expectation 'till the Caravan be ready, unless he will venture himself alone without a Guide, which I have done more than once. And thus much for Aleppo, next to Constantinople and Cayro, the most considerable City in all the Turkish Empire.

CHAP. III. Of several Roads in general from Aleppo to Ispahan, and par∣ticularly of the Road through the great Desert.

THere are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Ispahan, which being added to those other Roads which I have describ'd, through Natolia, make seven Roads into Persia, parting from Constantinople, Smyrna, or Aleppo.

The first of the five Roads, setting out from Aleppo, is upon the left hand, to∣ward the Summer-East, through Diarbek and Tauris. The second directly East, by Mesopotamia, through Moussul and Amadan. The third upon the right hand, toward the Winter-East, through Bagdat and Kengavar. The fourth somewhat more to the South, crossing a little Desert, through Anna, Bagdat, and Balsara. The fifth through the great Desert, which is an extraordinary Road, never travel'd but once a year, when the Merchants of Turkie and Egypt go to buy Camels. Of these Roads I intend to treat distinctly, and in several Chapters. And first of the Road through the great Desert.

The Caravans that go to Balsara this way never set out 'till the Rains are fal'n, that they may not want Water in the Desert: and the Rain seldom holds up 'till December. This Caravan, with which I travel'd, set out upon Christmas-day, con∣sisting of about six hundred Camels, and four hundred Men, Masters and Servants together: the Caravan-Bashi being only on Horse-back, and riding before, to find Water, and convenient places to lodge in.

I must confess I had the convenience my self to ride my own Horse, which I kept all the while I was at Aleppo. A liberty permitted the Franks only at Constantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo: for at Damas, Seyde, or Cayro, none but the Consuls are suffer'd

to keep Horses: others can only keep or hire Asses, which stand ready in the publick Streets at all times.

The next day we dislodg'd by day-break, and by noon we came to a place where there were five Wells, about five hundred Paces distant one from the other. The Water was excellent, and eaus'd us to replenish our Borache's: and about four a Clock in the Afternoon, we lay at a place where there was no Water.

The next day near noon we met with two Wells, but the Water was not good, and only the Camels drank of it; there we also lodg'd that night.

Having now travel'd two days in the Desert, I will describe it in a few words. You begin to enter upon it two or three Leagues from Aleppo, where by degrees you meet with nothing but Tents instead of Houses. It stretches out to the Winter-East, all along the Euphrates to Balsara, and the Shoar of the Gulf of Persia; and upon the South to the Chain of Mountains that divides it from Arabia Petraea and Arabia the Happy. These Deserts are almost quite thorough nothing but Plains of Sand, which in some places lye looser than in others; and are hardly passable 'till the Rains are but newly fal'n, and have knit the Sands together. 'Tis a rare thing to meet with a Hill or a Valley in these Deserts; if you do, there is as surely Water, and as many Bushes as will serve to boyl a little Rice. For throughout the whole Desert there is no Wood to be found; and all the Bavins and Charcoal that you can load upon Camels at Aleppo, will not last above eight or ten days. Therefore you must take notice, that of six hundred Camels that pass through the Desert, there are searce fifty laden with Merehandize, which is gene∣rally course Cloth, some little Iron Ware, but chiefly black and blew Calicuts, which the Arabians make use of without ever whitening them. All the other Camels are only laden with Provision, and all little enough; so many People being to travel for so many days through so long a Tract of Ground where there is nothing in the World to sustain Life and Soul together.

For the first fifteen days travel we met with Water but once in two days, and sometimes not above once in three days. The twentieth day after we set out from Aleppo, the Caravan lay at a place where there were two Wells, and the Water very good. Every one was glad of the convenience of washing his Linnen, and the Caravan-Bashi made account to have staid there two or three days. But the News that we receiv'd, caus'd us to alter our Resolutions. For we had no seener giv'n order to dress our Suppers, when we saw a Courier with three Arabs, all mounted upon Dromedaries, who were sent to carry the news of the Taking of Babylon to Aleppo and other Cities of the Empire. They stop'd at the Wells to let their Beasts drink; and immediately the Caravan-Bashi, and the principal persons of the Caravan made them a small Present of dry'd Fruits and Granates. Who thereupon were so kind as to tell us, that the Camels which carry'd the Baggage belonging to the Grand Signor and his Train being tyr'd, his Officers would be sure to seize upon ours, if they should chance to meet with us: they advis'd us moreover not to come near Anna, lest the Emir should stop us.

Upon this news, we departed three hours after midnight; and keeping directly to the South, we put our selves into the midst of the Desert.

Eight days after we came to lye at a place where were three Wells, and three or four Houses. We staid there two days to take fresh Water, and we were just setting forward again, when thirty Horsemen well mounted came from one of the Emirs, to tell the Caravan-Bashi that he must stop his Caravan. We staid im∣patiently for him three days; and at length he came, and was presented by the Caravan-Bashi with a piece of Satin, half a piece of Searlet Cloth; and two large Copper Cauldrons. Now although those Cauldrons could not but be very acceptable to an Arabian Prince, who most certainly had none such in his Kitchin, yet he did not seem contented with his Present, and demanded above four hundred Crowns. We contested seven or eight days to have kept our Money in our Pockets, but in vain; so that we were forc'd to rate one another, and to raise him his Sum; which being paid, he treated the chief of the Caravan with Pilaw, Honey, and Dates, and when he went away, gave them five or six Sheep ready boyl'd.

Three days after we had left this Arabian Prince, we met with two Wells near certain old decay'd Brick Buildings. The Water of those Wells was so hitter, that the Camels would not drink it: however we fill'd our Borache's, thinking

it would have left its bitterness by being boyl'd: but we found the contrary.

From those two Wells that were good for nothing, we travel'd six days before we met with any Water, which with the three days before, made nine; and all that time the Camels never drank, as I have hinted already. At the end of nine days we cross'd a Hilly Country for three Leagues together, at the feet of three of which Hills there were three standing Pools. The Camels, that smelt the Water half a League off, put themselves upon their great trot, which is their manner of running, and no sooner came to the Pools but they crouded in all together, which caus'd the Water to be thick and muddy. Thereupon the Caravan-Bashi resolv'd to stay there two or three days together, 'till the Water was setl'd. Here we had also the opportunity to boyl us some Rice, there being good store of Bushes that grew about the Lake. But above all, the People were over-joy'd that they had an opportunity to make Bread, which they do after the following manner. First they dig a round Hole in the Ground, half a Foot deep, and two or three in diameter, which they croud full of Bushes, and then set them on fire, covering them with Bricks or Stones 'till they are red-hot. In the mean while they prepare their Dough upon a Sofra, or round piece of Copper, which serves at other times for Table and Table-Cloth to eat upon. Then they take away the Ashes and Bricks, and making the Hole very clean, put in their Dough, and cov'ring it again with the hot Bricks or Stones, leave it so 'till the morning. The Bread thus bak'd is very well tasted, not being above two Fingers thick, and as big as an ordinary Cake.

While we stay'd at the three Ponds, I spent my time in killing Hares and Par∣tridge, of which there was very great plenty in those parts. The night before we departed we fill'd our Boracho's again, the Water being very good and clear; though it be nothing but Rain-water preserv'd in those Cavities, which in the Summer are dry again.

But now the Caravan-Bashi, seeing we had travel'd already nine days without finding any Water, resolv'd to leave the South, and to keep to the West; and if he met not with Water in two or three days, to take to the North-East, or Winter-East, in quest of the River Euphrates.

Two days after we had chang'd our Road, we pass'd between two little Hills, where we met with a Pond, near to which were two Arabians, each with his Wife and Children, tending a Herd of Goats and a Flock of Sheep. They told us they were going toward Moussui, and put us in the best Road to find Water; and indeed, from that place to Balsara, we never travel'd three days together, but we met with enough.

Five days after we had left those two Arabians, we discover'd a large Palace all of Brick; which shew'd some probability, that the Country had been formerly sow'd, and that the Bricks had been burnt with the Straw. To the Palace belong'd three large Courts; in every one of which were fair Buildings, with two Stories of Arches, one-upon another. Though this large Pile was standing, yet no body liv'd in it, nor could the Arabians, very ignorant in Antiquity, tell us by whom it was built. Before the Gate of the Palace there is a Lake with a Channel, the bottom whereof is brick'd, as also the Arch, which is even with the Ground. This the Arabians believe to have been a conveyance of Water from Euphrates: which surely could never be, in regard that Euphrates is above twenty Leagues distant.

From that Palace we kept to the North-East, and after we had travel'd five days, we arriv'd at a pitiful Town, formerly call'd Cufa, now Meched-Ali, where Ali, Mahomet's Son-in-law lyes buried in a plain Mosquee. Generally there stand four Tapers lighted about the Tomb, and certain Lamps burning over-head, which are fasten'd to the Roof.

Though the Persians have Ali in so much veneration, yet they rarely go in Pil∣grimage to his Tomb. The reason is, because that there being no way to come at it, but through Bagdat, which is under the Dominion of the Great Turk, there is a demand of eight Piaesters from every Pilgrim; which is an Imposition that no way pleases the King of Persia. Sha-Abas scorning that his Subjects should be tributary to the Turks, endeavour'd to divert them from this Pilgrimage by another sort of Devotion, which he set up at Meshéed, upon the Road from Tauris to Candahar. Nor have the Kings his Successors been less unwilling to give their Subjects leave to visit their Prophet Ali, taking it for an Affront to pay Tribute to the Grand Signor.

Which is the reason that this Mosquee is no more enrich'd by the Persians. For besides the Lamps and Tapers that burn continually, there are only two Moullah's that read the Alcoran according to custom. In this Town there are only three or four bad Wells of brackish Water, and a dry Channel, which they say Sha-Abas made to bring the Water of Euphrates to the Town for the benefit of the Pilgrims. As for Food, we met with nothing but Dates, Grapes, and Almonds, which the people sold at a dear rate. When any Pilgrims come thither, which is very rare, and that they want Victuals, the Sheck causes a distribution to be made among them of Rice boyl'd with Water and Salt, and a little Butter pour'd a top. For there is no Pasturage for Cattel, and by consequence there can be no store of Food.

Two days journey from Ali's Town, by nine of the Clock in the morning we met two young Arabian Lords that took upon them the name of Sultans. They were two Brothers, one of the age of seventeen years, the other of thirteen; and as we pitch'd our Tents, they pitch'd theirs close by us; which were of a very fine Scarlet Cloth; and among the rest there was one cover'd with Purple Velvet, lac'd with a rich Galoon-lace. So soon as they were setl'd in their Tents, the Caravan-Bashi and I went to wait upon them; who understanding that there were Franks in the Caravan, ask'd me whether I had any Curiosities to sell them; but when I made them answer that I had nothing worthy their purchase, they would not believe me, and therefore commanded the Caravan-Bashi to fetch my Trunks, that they might be open'd in their presence. While they were opening, one of the chief persons about those Princes would not suffer any of the rest of the Arabs to come near, for though most of the Arabs are great Thieves, yet some of them are persons of great integrity. Now I had in my company a young Painter, who had in his Chest several engrav'd Cuts, part Landskips, part Figures, together with the Pictures of certain Courtisans drawn to the Wast. The young Lords made choice only of twenty of those Courtisans, which I would have presented to them; but they gave me to understand, that they knew how to pay for what they had, and especially the youngest, who seem'd to be very generous; him I pleas'd in an extraordinary manner; for his Teeth being very foul, I order'd a Chirurgeon that I carry'd along with me at the same time to clean them, which he did to the great satisfaction of the young Prince. Thereupon they sent me and my Train, of their best Victuals they had. The Caravan-Bashi presented them with half a piece of Scarlet, and two pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silver. When we were ready to go, the young Sultan gave me twelve Ducats for my Pictures, and sent the Caravan-Bashi and my self two Frails of the best Dates that we had met with since we lest Aleppo.

About midnight the Princes dislodg'd, and took to the North, toward Euphrates. We set forward after them, driving Northward toward the same River. After we had travel'd four days we met one of the most potent Emirs of Arabia, who coming from the South, and going Northward, was to cross the Road that we kept. He was about fifty years of age, well made, and of a comely presence. He had not then above two thousand Horse, of thirty thousand which we heard had pass'd by some days before. Behind the two thousand Horse were fifty Camels that carry'd his Women; their Cajavas being cover'd with Scarlet-cloth fring'd with Silk. In the midst of these Camels there were six encompass'd with Eunuchs, the Fringes of the Cajavas being Silk, Silver, and Gold. The Arabians do not seem to be jealous of their Wives, as in Turkie and other places; for they led their Camels by our Caravan, never requiring us to retire, as is the custom in other places. They lodg'd a quarter of a League off, where we thought to have pitch'd, for the conveniency of two or three Ponds, which they depriv'd us of. This Arabian Prince had a great number of lovely Horses richly harness'd: others he had that were neither sadl'd nor bridl'd, yet the Riders would turn them with a Wand which way they pleas'd, and upon a full gallop would stop 'em, by only holding them by the Hair. He had some Horses of an excessive price; and this is to be observ'd, that they are never shod.

The Caravan-Bashi believing he should not escape scot-free from so powerful a Prince, among the Merchants of the Caravan found out a rich Saddle, with Bridle and Stirrups, which were all set out and garnish'd with massy Silver, with an

embroider'd Quiver full of Arrows, together with a Buckler, the whole coming to about eleven or twelve hundred Livers; and adding to these of his own a piece of Scarlet, four pieces of Tissue of Gold and Silk, and six pieces of Tissue of Silver and Silk, made a Present of all together to the Emir. But he refus'd all, demanding only two hundred thousand Piasters for Larins: which exchange being no way for the Merchants profit, rais'd a great dispute. But at length, considering that it was in his power to stop and starve us there, we only endeavour'd a Composition; which was obtain'd. Thereupon he took the Present, which perhaps he would not else have done. For two days that we staid to weigh the Money, he sent Provisions to the chief of the Caravan; and at our departure, he sent us twelve Frails of Dates, and four young Camels that might be worth about forty Crowns a-piece.

Two days after we met a Schek, who among the Arabians is one of the chief of the Law. He was going to Mecca, cross some part of Arabia the Happy, with a Train of ten or twelve Camels. He staid all night with us, and one of his Servants having been dangerously wounded about two days before with a Musket-bullet, my Chirurgeon drest him, and gave him Salve and Tents, for which he was extremely thankful. He sent me to Supper a great Dish of Pilaw, and the next day a whole Sheep. The Caravan-Bashi likewise presented him with two Ells of Scarlet.

The next we met with nothing worth observation, but the day following we met another Emir, of about Five and Twenty years of age, who came from Euphrates, and was travelling into the Happy Arabia. He had with him about five hundred Horse, and three hundred Camels that carry'd his women. He pre∣sently sent to know what Caravan it was, and understanding that it consisted of many Franks, among whom there was a Chirurgeon: He sent again to desire the Caravan Bashi to follow with the Caravan, to the place where he intended to pitch his Tents, which was not far out of the way. We did not think to have gone so far that day, but he led us to the best water in all the Desert. The Princes Tent being set up, he sent for my Chirurgeon, with whom I went along to know what his pleasure was. He had upon his left Arm a Tetter, with a most filthy Scab as broad as a Crown piece; and this went and came at certain times in the year. He presently ask'd the Chirurgeon whether he could cure him? to whom the Chirurgeon made answer, that the cure was not impossible, provided he knew where to get such remedies as were convenient: For had he said, he could have abso∣lutely cur'd him, the Emir would have carry'd him away with him, without any farther Ceremony. Thereupon he would have giv'n the Chirurgeon five hun∣dred Crowns to have bought Medicines. But I made answer, that the cure would not cost so much, and that if the Chirurgeon could meet with proper Drugs, I would lay out the Money my self. The Emir content with that answer, sent one of his chief People to Balsara, to come back with the Chirurgeon, when he had bought his Medicines. He himself stay'd three days in expectation of him; but after we had pretended to seek for what we wanted, up and down the Town (for we enquired for such things as we knew were not to be had) we sent him back word that we could not find what we look'd for, and desir'd his excuse, in regard the attendance of the Chirurgeon would be of no use, where he had not proper remedies; which was the only way we could think of, to get cleverly rid of him.

The next days Journey after we had left the Arabian Prince, was through a Country altogether uninhabited; but the day following, which was the sixty-fifth and last day of our being in the Desert, we met after some time, with the ruines of some houses on both sides the way; which made us conjecture, that some great City had stood formerly in that place.

At length we came to Balsara, which I shall describe in another place.

While I stay'd at Balsara, which was about three weeks, an Ambassador from the Great Mogul arriv'd there, who from Constantinople went to Bagdat to congra∣tulate the Grand Signor for the Conquest of that City which he had taken in so short a time. The Emperour presented him with three stately Horses, and a little Watch, the Case whereof was set with Diamonds and Rubies. But the Ambas∣sador not knowing what belong'd to that little Engin, winding it up the wrong way, broke the string. Coming to Balsara he sent to the Carmelites to desire them to mend his Watch; for he fear'd the loss of his head, should he return to his

Master and not shew him the Watch entire. It wat at their House that I then lay; and therefore not knowing what to do with it, they desir'd me to shew my skill: Thereupon I put on a new string. But the Ambassador when he understood to whom he was beholding, though it were but a trifle, profer'd me all the service and kindness imaginable. Thereupon the Carmelites and Augustin Fryars desir'd me to request of the Ambassador in their behalf, that he would obtain the Great Turks protection for them, in case he took Balsara, that their Houses and Churches might be preserv'd; which I did, and obtain'd by his means full pro∣tection from the Grand Visier. But they had no need of it, for the Turks did not make any attempt upon Balsara, hearing that the Persians were advancing; besides that the rainy season was at hand, which will not permit an Army to keep the Field: So that had Bagdat held out eight days longer; the Grand Signor would have been constrain'd to have rais'd the Siege.

Having spoken of the Arabian Horses; I must needs say, that there are some that are valu'd at a very high rate. The Mogul's Ambassador gave for some three, four, and six thousand Crowns, and for another he offer'd eight thousand Crowns, but the Horse would not be sold under ten, and so he left it. When he was got home into the Indies, and had presented the Mogul those Horses which he had carry'd along with him, being very lovely Creatures; he told his Master how he had offer'd eight thousand Crowns for a Horse more beautiful than any of them; but because the Owner would not let him go under ten, he left him. The King incens'd that his Ambassador had stood for so small a Sum, when it was for one of the greatest Monarchs in the World, upbraided the poorness of his Spirit, and banish'd him for ever from his presence, into a Province far distant from the Court. Thereupon the King wrote to the English to buy him the Horse, who accordingly did so, and brought him to Surat, where the Governour re-paid them their Money. But the Horse dy'd at Brampour.

Nor must I forget, that while I was at Balsara, twice there flew by such a pro∣digious number of Locusts, that a-far-off they appear'd like a Cloud, and darkn'd the Air. They pass by Balsara four or five times in the year, the Wind carrying them into the Desert, where they alight, and most certainly dye. Should they not be thus wind-driv'n, there could nothing live upon the Earth in some parts of Chaldea. They swarm all along the Persian Gulf, and when the Vessels come to Ormus at the time of the year, there are little Shops where people sell Locusts fry'd in Butter to those that love that sort of Diet. Once I had the curiosity to open the Belly of a Locust six Inches long, and found therein seventeen little ones that stirr'd; whence it is easie to guess how those Insects come to be so numerous, espe∣cially in hot Countries.

There are several Barks that go from Ormus to furnish both sides of the Persian Gulf, where the people eat neither Bread nor Rice. I agreed with the Master of one of these Barks, and made my agreement that the Bark should not be above half laden; for generally they lade them too deep, and in foul weather they are forc'd to throw half the Freight over-board, to save the rest.

From Balsara to the mouth of the River Euphrates, it is reck'nd to be twenty Leagues of Fresh-water. We staid seven whole days for a Wind, which proving favourable, we came to Brander-ric, in forty-eight hours. This is the place where you must land, if you intend for Persia, unless you are bound for Ormus. Brander-ric consists only of five or six little Fishers Hutts; which Hutts are only Hurdles set one against another, and cover'd over, where they and their Families live. To the same place come Asses lad'n with Dates, which I was forc'd to hire for want of Horses.

We were six days upon the Road from thence to Cazerom. This is a Mountainous Country, where there is Wood enough; but you must lodge in the Fields, for there are no Inns upon the Road. The way is pleasant in some places, along the Banks of several Rivulets, and through verdant Groves stor'd with great quantities of Turtles. We kill'd a good many; which we eat, part with Pilaw, instead of Henns; some we rosted; making Sticks to serve for Spits.

Cazerom is a little City ill built, where there is but one Inn, and that none of the most inviting to Strangers neither.

From Cazerom to Schiras it is five days journey. The Road lyes over very craggy

Mountains, which had been impassable, but for the Liberality of Ali-Couli-Kan, Governour of Schiras. He made Ways where there were none before, and joyn'd Mountains together by Bridges, in Countries which otherwise had been inaccessible. In the midst of the Mountains is a wide gap or discontinuance, from whence a Plain extends it self of about twenty Leagues in circuit. It is inhabited by Jews only, who are Silk-Weavers. In these Mountains you meet with Tents, where the Chaldeans sojourn, that come for cool Air and Pasturage in the Summer.

Coming to Schiras, I took Horse there for Ispahan, where I arriv'd in nine days. The Country over which you travel, between these two Cities, is part Plains, part Mountains; part wild, and part manur'd. Three days journey from Schiras you pass the Mountain of Mayen, a little City where there is nothing worthy obser∣vation. Two days journey from thence you enter upon the Plains of the Province of Cuscuzar, where the King of Persia keeps his Race-Horses. The next day I arriv'd at Yesdecas, where the best Bread in Persia is made. This is a little City upon a Rock, wherein there is a very fair Inn: at the foot whereof runs a little River that glides into the Valley, wherein grows that excellent Corn which is utter'd in Bread from that City.

In three days I went from Yesdecas to Ispahan. This was the first Road from Aleppo to Ispahan.

CHAP. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ispahan, through Mesopotamia and Assyria, which I travel'd in my third Voyage to the In∣dies.

I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the sixth of December 1643, and went to Ligorn, where I found the Dutch Fleet ready to set Sail for the Levant. The Vessel wherein I embark'd seeming rather a Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man. We pass'd through the Channel of Messina, and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City. From thence pas∣sing by the Morea, we enter'd into the Archipelago, where the Fleet parted, ac∣cording as every Ship was bound. Our Ship sayl'd directly for the Port of Alexan∣dretta, but though the Wind were favourable, we were stop'd for some time by a Pirate that met with us off the Eastern Point of Candy. We endeavour'd to have got clear of him; but the Pirate gaining upon us, we made ready. Thereupon the Pirate gave us three Broad-sides, that went over the Ship without doing us any harm: which we answer'd by as many from our Ship, the first whereof brought his Fore-mast by the Board; and the third Shot went through the Fore-castle and kill'd him some Men, as far as we could discern. At that very instant one of our Mari∣ners cry'd out from the Top-mast-head, A Sail from the South. Thereupon the Pirate left us, and made Sail after her: and we, glad of such an escape, pursu'd our Voyage to Alexandretta, where we happily arriv'd; from whence I took Horse for Aleppo, as I have already describ'd.

The sixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin Friars, Father Raphael and Father Yves, and a Venetian whose name was Dominico de Sanctis.

From Aleppo to Bir, where you cross the Euphrates, it is four days journey for the Horse-Caravan. The Country is well wooded, and well manur'd.

The seventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the usual Stage, so that we could not gain Telbechar, another Town, where there is no Inn: which constrain'd us to stop a League on this side, and to go to a Cave that was able to contain three hundred Horse. This is a Cave where the Bedouins or Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire, who live after the manner of the Arabs, either in Rocks or in poor Hutts. The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time, there being several Niches in it like little Chambers. Our Caravan-Bashi fearing

some Ambuscade, rode thither before to view the place, but finding it empty and free, we rested there that night, and the next night came to lye at Mezara, which is only a small Village without an Inn: Neither was there any thing remarkable upon that Road. Only that near the Cave, in the Mountain, there is very good Water: And formerly upon the Mountain stood a Castle, of which some ruines are still re∣maining. From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Prospect as far as you can see, over very fair Plains on every side, and in several places very good Land, water'd by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates. All the Rivolets also that you cross from Aleppo to Bir come from the same River.

The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo, being the ninth of March, we came to the banks of Euphrates. Bir is on the other side of the River; and be∣cause that sometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day; there is a fair and large Inn, to defend the Merchants from the Bedoüins, which would else disturb and rob them, were not they and their Goods in that manner secur'd.

You cross the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats, and as soon as you are got over the other side of the River, the Customer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales, and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong. The Caravan does not lye in the Town, which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a very craggy Mountain, but passes forward over a scurvy Road to an Inn upon the top of the Mountain. Near the Inn there are several Chambers cut out of the Rock, where they that cannot get room in the Inn are forc'd to lye. That Evening the Custom-Officer comes to receive his duties, being two Piasters upon every load of Goods, whether upon Horse or Mule, though the Mules carry more than the Horses; and half a Piaster for every Beast that carries Provisions. But for Saddle Horses or Mules there is nothing demanded.

The Bir, or Berygeon, as the Natives call it, is a large City for an Eastern City, scituated upon the brow of a Hill. Below upon the River stands a Castle that de∣clares its Antiquity; it is half as long as the City, but narrow, and without any other Fortification, saving only a Tower that scours the River, in which there are eight or nine pitiful Culverins. In the highest part of the Town stands another Castle where the Governour resides, who is an Aga, whom some call a Basha, having un∣der him two hundred Janizaries, and four hundred Spahi's. The City is ill built, as are the most part of the Cities of Turkie: But there are an extraordinary plenty of all things, excellent Bread, good Wine, and great store of the best sort of Fish.

The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the first Lands of Mesopo∣tamia, that lyes between the two Rivers Euphrates and Tigre, which at present they call Diarbek, we came in the evening to Sharmely. This is a very good Town, with a fair Inn, and Baths round about it. About twice Musquet-Shot from thence, stands a Mountain alone by it self, like Montmartre near Paris: Round about it are Plains, and at the top of it stands a Fortress, with a Garrison of two hundred Spahi's, by reason that the Arabs sometimes cross Euphrates, and make incursions upon that side. In the year 1631, the Grand Vizier retur∣ning from Bagdat, where he had lost the greatest part of the Grand Signor's Army, not being able to take the City; fearing the loss of his head if he return'd to Con∣stantinople, and knowing himself to be in great esteem among the Souldiers, re∣solv'd to quarter himself upon this Mountain, and to erect a Fortress to secure himself from the tempest that threaten'd him. No doubt but'l if he could have brought about his design, he might have made himself Master of all Mesopotamia, and would have put the Grand Signor to a great deal of trouble. For if you in∣tend for Aleppo, whither it be from Tauris, Mossul, or Bagdat, unless you travel tho∣rough the Desert, you must pass through Sharmely, under the command of this Fortress, for Provision and Waters sake. The work was gone so far forward, that there was a good defence rais'd, and the Vizier had already enclos'd all the Mountain together with the Inn, with a Wall almost twenty foot thick, and three fathom high, when he was strangl'd by those in whom he most confided, the Grand Signor having gain'd them either by threats or by rewards.

The eleventh, after a Journey of ten hours we came to Ourfa, where the Cara∣van usually stays eight or ten days; for here it is that they live that hire the Horses and the Mules, who have always some business in this place. We lay at an Inn

three or four hundred paces distant from the City toward the North. When the Inn is full, the rest retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand, and are very good quarters. Here the Toll-gatherer presently comes and counts the Bales without op'ning them. They that carry any Sacks must pay for half a Load; if not, he op'ns the Sack to see if there be any Merchandise therein, for then the Merchant must pay the whole duty.

Ourfa is the Capital City of Mesopotamia, built as they say, in the same place where Abraham liv'd, and where stood the ancient Edessa, where the people of the Country report, that King Abagarus generally kept his Court. There are still to be seen the ruines of a Castle; from whence they add, that the same King sent to CHRIST for his Picture, and offer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend him against the Jews, whom he understood to be his Enemies. The Chronicles of the Armenians report, that Abagarus was their Country-man, and that in his Reign they began to be Christians, and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apostle, whom CHRIST sent to that Prince after his Resurrection. * Neither is this Castle yet so far ruin'd, but that there is still to be seen a spacious Hall, and three or four hand∣som Rooms with some relicks of Mosaick work. I was curious to see what ever was remarkable in this City. And first they led me to a large Fountain which re∣sembles a Fish-pond, the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal Mosquèe, which was built in the honour of Abraham. The Christians of the Coun∣try say, that it was in that place where he pray'd, before he went about to Sacri∣fice his Son Isaac, and that two Springs of Water arose from the two places where he rested his knees, which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of. It is pav'd with Free-stone, and so full of fish, that if you throw them in a little Bread, they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the side of the Pond. There is no medling with them; for the Turks have a great veneration for those Fish which they call Abraham's Fish. Besides that, the place about the Fountain where the water wid'ns it self to water all the City, is cover'd with very fair Carpets, for about twenty paces in bredth. This Fountain at length falls into a little River that runs by the Walls. As for the Grotto where the two Springs rise, there is no going into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes, and it is a great favour for a Christian to see it; such a favour as cost me six Piasters. I also saw the Church, under the portal whereof, they say, St. Alexis liv'd seventeen years a private life. It stands in the middle of a Church-yard, in the highest part of the Town, in the possession of the Armenians. But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours walking from the City, built by St. Ephren, who is there buried. The Monastery stands yet entire, enclos'd with fair Walls. In the Church I saw a large Bible in Armenian Characters. The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the Mountain, to which there also belongs a Chappel, where they keep three or four Lamps continually burning. There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain, where are to be seen very ancient Sepulchers of the Christians. The City of Ourfa is seated in a good soil, very well manur'd, which extends it self out of sight to∣ward the East. There are several pleasant Gardens near the walls, water'd by little Channels brought thither by Art. The soil produces good Wine, so that a man may live as well at Ourfa, as in any part of Turkie. While I stay'd there, I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in those Gardens; and indeed there is great store of wild Fowl all the Country over. The Walls of the City are of Freestone, with Battlements and Towers; but within, the houses are small, ill built, and ruinous: And there are several void spaces in the City, which makes Ourfa to look rather like a Desert than a Metropolis. The City is Govern'd by a Basha, who has under him a hundred and fifty Janizaries, and six hundred Spahi's, standing more in need of Cavalry than Infantry, by reason of the Incursions of the Arabians, especially in Harvest time. In short, Ourfa is the place were they dress such great quanti∣ties of Cordovan Skins, by reason of the waters particular to the Country, which give them that peculiar beauty. The Yellow Skins are drest at Ourfa, the Blew at Tocat, and the red Rat Diarbequir.

The twentieth of March, we set out of Ourfa, and after a Journey of six hours, we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was fal'n all to decay. There is a Foun∣tain of excellent water by it, which is all the convenience of the place, for there is no Provision to be had.

The twenty-first we travel'd nine hours, and came to lye near several Caverns which are very deep; at the entry whereof there are little Rooms, which are sup∣pos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel thereabouts. There is also Rain-Water to be had in some of the Concavities of the Rock. Half this days journey you must pass over Rocks, where it is almost impos∣sible, and very dangerous to keep your Horses back.

The twenty-second, having travel'd eleven hours, we lodg'd near a Cavern, having forded a River that runs at the foot of it. There are two great Grotto's on each side, where Travellers take up their Quarters, and whither the Natives of the Country bring Provisions both for Horse and Man. The Toll-gatherers, coming from a Fort about three Leagues distant from these Caverns, here exact two Piasters and a half for every Horse and Mules Load; and search your Sacks, to see if there be no Merchantable Goods therein. About half the way of this days journey you meet with a City quite deserted by the Inhabitants; and about an hours march after that, with Tombs of Stone, in the middle whereof stands a Cross, with Armenian Cha∣racters.

The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours, and lay at Dadacardin. This appears to have been a great Town, but is all ruin'd: nor is there any thing remaining but a long Stone-Bridge very well built, under which runs a River that is very broad when it overflows. The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the Hollows of Rocks; yet they bring to the Travellers Hens, Butter, Cheese, and other Provisions which they sell very cheap.

The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours, and lay at a place call'd Cara, built upon a Hill. The Caravan lay at the Inn; but the two Capuchins and I lay at a private Christian's House, who carry'd us to the Church, where was then the Ver∣tabet or Bishop of Merdin. It was a pitiful poor Church, where they had nothing but two Planks supported with four Sticks instead of an Altar. They dare not leave any Furniture in it; but as soon as the Priest has said Service, he must have a care to take away every thing, as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar, which was only a Painted Cloth: For the Turks that travel that way, if it be foul weather, will break open the Door, put their Horses there, burn the Altar, and take away whatever they find.

In the Village where we lay, there was a Pond, the sides whereof were sur∣rounded with fair Free-stones, which were fetch'd from the Christian Churches, and the Tombs of the Christians thereabouts. Among the rest, there was one very large Stone, with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters; whereby we knew it to be the Tomb-stone of a Norman Gentleman, who had been a Captain of Foot. The Bishop inform'd us, that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories, that the French were a long time in this Country, at what time the Christians were Masters of Syria. This Country is all a large Plain, about twenty Leagues in length; which might be well manur'd, and make the Inhabitants rich, did not the Tyranny of the Turks, and the Incursions of the Arabs reduce them to the utmost degree of Poverty.

The twenty-fifth, after we had travel'd eight hours, we lay at a Village call'd Cousasar, where there was no Inn. There were formerly three great Monasteries, a quarter of a League one from the other. The Turks have ruin'd two, all but the Steeples of the Churches that belong'd to them. The third, which stands all entire, and is the fairest Pile of Building, serves for a Mosquee. They have made Shops round about the Cloysters, in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water.

The twenty-seventh we lay still at Cousasar, being the place where you must pay the Customs of Diarbequir, which is not above two days journey off, amounting to two Piasters and a fourth part, for every Load of Merchants Goods.

Merdin is not above two Leagues from Cousasar. This is a little City seated upon a Mountain, with good Walls, and a fair Fountain replenish'd from the Castle; which stands upon the North side, in a place yet higher, that commands the City; where there lives a Basha, who has under him two hundred Spahi's, and four hun∣dred Janizaries. Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida, the first Wife of Pietro de la Valle, so well known for his famous Travels.

As for Cousasar, which is a large Village, it is inhabited for the most part by Ar∣menian Christians and Nestorians. The Armenians perform Divine Service in their own Language; the Nestorians in the Chaldaïc. The latter shew'd me two Bibles

in a large Volume, in the same Language, writt'n in Vellum, all the Capital Letters being in Gold and Azure. They seem'd to be very old; and one of their Priests told me, that it is 937 years ago since one of them was writt'n; the other not above 374 since. When Service is done, they put them in a Chest, and hide them under Ground. I would have giv'n 200 Piasters for the oldest, but they durst not sell it, in regard it belong'd to the Church, and was not at their disposal.

The twenty-seventh, after we had travel'd nine hours, we arriv'd at Karasara, which had been formerly a great Town, and no doubt inhabited by Christians; as appears by seven or eight Churches half ruin'd, though the Steeples are little the worse. They stand at a good distance one from the other; and upon the North-side of one of those Churches there is a Gallery, at the end whereof, through a little Door you descend about a hundred Steps, every Step being ten Inches thick. When you come under the Church, you meet with a larger and bigger Vault, supported with Pillars. The Building is so contriv'd, that there is more light below than in that above; but of late years the Earth has stop'd up several Windows. The great Altar is in the Rock; on the right side whereof is a Room, which receives the light from several Windows contriv'd in the Rock. Over the Gate of the Church was a great Free-stone, wherein were certain Letters that I could not read. On the North-side of the same Church under Ground are to be seen two great Cisterns, each four hundred and fifty Paces long; with two great Arches, sustain'd with several Pillars. Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain, and makes a kind of a River. A quarter of a League from the Church, you descend the Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks, on each side whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock. Upon every Door there is a Cross; and in every Room as it were a Bench, and a Table, with a little place about the length of a Man, like a Bedsted, all cut out of the Rock. At the bottom of the Rock is a Hall, round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to sit on. The Roof is all plain, without any Arch; in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Moun∣tain: but in regard it gives no light, 'tis very probable 'twas only made to let out the Smoak when they drest their Meat; or else to let in the fresh Air, as I have seen in many Villages upon the Persian Gulf. Upon the highest of those Mountains stands a paltry Village, where they buy their Victuals. But before the Caravan arrives, certain Merchants ride before to inform themselves from the Herdsmen, whether they know of any Thieves in the Grotto's, that often hide themselves there in expectation of Prey.

In the year 1638, Sultan Amur at going to besiege Babylon, march'd this very way, as well to see these Ruines, as to give order for the demolishing a Fort that stood not above two Leagues off of Karasera, which the Thieves of the Country made their place of retreat. He also at the same time caus'd the Road to be clear'd for four days journey, by ord'ring the Stones to be pickt up and laid in heaps, all along the Road. He also built a Bridge over the River. And indeed, that March of the Grand Signor was very advantageous to all Travellers that pass this way.

The twenty-eighth we travel'd eight hours, and came to Nesbin, anciently Ni∣sibis. Two or three hours travel on this side, near the Road, is a kind of Hermitage, being a small Room enclos'd with Walls, the Door whereof is so low, that a Man must creep upon his Belly to get in. Three or four Jews went and perform'd their Devotions at this Hermitage, believing it to be the place where the Prophet Elisha was buried.

The Country from Cousasar to Nesbin is a large Plain, where for the first days journey you shall see no other green Herb upon the Ground but only Pimpernel; the Roots whereof are so large, that there are some a Foot and a half in diameter. The next day, the Fields are cover'd with a large thick Leaf, the Root whereof is bulbous, and as big as an Egg. There are also great store of yellow, red, and violet Flowers, Tulips of several colours, Emonies, and single Daffadillies. But in general Mesopotamia is a very barren Country, and there are very few places that can be better'd by Art or Industry.

Nesbin is only the Shadow of the ancient Nisibis, being now only a large Village; the Inhabitants whereof are Christians, both Armenians and Nestorians. Our Ca∣ravan lodg'd a little beyond, in a Church-yard adjoyning to one of the Armenian Churches. The next day, hearing people sing, I went to the Church with the two

Capuchins, where I saw an Armenian Bishop, with his Miter, and a wooden Crosier, accompany'd with several Priests and a good Congregation. When Service was done, after some few Compliments between us, he led us down under the Church into a Chappel, where he shew'd us the Sepulcher of St. James Bishop of Nisibis. In the Church-yard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and six high; upon which were laid several Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor Offer in their Necessities, but especially in their Sicknesses. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedestal for the Statue of some Saint, which the Turks have defac'd: so that they give the same Honour to the Pedestal, as they would have giv'n to the Statue. There are also some Roman Characters to be seen, but half worn out, and spaces brok'n off in some parts: so that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. Half a League from Nisbin runs a River, which you cross, over a Stone-Bridge. In the way to the River are several pieces of Wall, with an Arch, which made me con∣jecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River.

Twice Musket-shot from the River, you meet with a Stone, half buried, upon which are written certain Latin Words; whereby it appears that it was the Tomb∣stone of the General of an Army that was a French-man: but I could not read his Name, which time had desac'd. The same Bishop inform'd us, that formerly the Moors having besieg'd the City, there came such a prodigious company of strange Flyes, and did so torment both Men and Horses, that they were forc'd to raise the Siege. You must pay the same Toll at Nisbin as in other places, that is, two Piasters and a half, for every Mule or Horses Load. We lay there three days toge∣ther, to furnish our selves with Provisions 'till we came to Moussul, which is five days journey from Nisbin; the Country between being altogether desert and uninha∣bited. There is no Water to be found but in two places, and that not very good neither; near to which you shall see some few Herdsmen grazing their Cattel.

The first of April we departed from Nisbin; and after we had travel'd eleven hours, we lay near to a River, whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to sell.

The second we travel'd ten hours, and lay at a paltry Town, where we met with nothing to eat.

The third we travel'd thirteen hours, and lodg'd by a pitiful Fountain, the Water whereof was hardly good enough for our Horses.

The fourth we travel'd ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, near to which appear'd the Ruines of a Bridge and a Castle.

The fifth we travel'd eleven hours, to reach Moussul, which is not far from the ancient Niniveh.

Moussul is a City that makes a great shew without, the Walls being of Free-stone; but within it is almost all ruin'd, having only two blind Market-places, with a little Castle upon the Tigris, where the Basha lives. In a word, there is nothing worth a Man's sight in Moussul, the place being only considerable for the great concourse of Merchants; especially the Arabians and Curds, which are the Inha∣bitants of the ancient Assyria, now call'd Curdistan, where there grows great plenty of Galls, and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four sorts of Christians, Greeks, Armenians, Nestorians, and Maronites. The Capuchins had a pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris; but the Basha laying a Fine upon them, because they went about a little to enlarge it, they were forc'd to quit it. The City is govern'd by a Basha, that has under him, part Janizaries, part Spahi's, about three thousand Men.

There are only two scurvy Inns in Moussul, which being full when we came, I caus'd my Tent to be set up at the Meydan, or great Market-place.

Now to say something in general of the difference of the two Rivers, Tigris and Euphrates, in reference to their Course and Waters: I observ'd that the Water of Euphrates appear'd somewhat red; and that the Stream was not so swift as that of Tigris, which seem'd to be whitish, like the Loire. As for its Course, Euphrates runs a far longer way than Tigris. But now let us cross the Tigris, over a Bridge of Boats, to view the sad Ruines of a City that has made such a noise in the World; though there be now scarce any appearance of its ancient splendour.

Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon Assyria-side, being now only a heap of Rubbish extending almost a League along the River. There are

abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited; nor could a man well conjecture whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people, or whether any houses had been built upon them in former times; for most of the houses in Turkie are like Cellars, or else but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris stands a little Hill encompas'd with Houses, on the top whereof is built a Mosquée. The people of the Country say 'twas the place where Jonas was bury'd; and for that place they have so great a veneration, that no Christians are suffer'd to enter into it, but pri∣vately, and for Money. By that means I got in with two Capuchin Fryars; but we were forc'd to put off our Shooes first. In the middle of the Mosquée stood a Sepulchre, cover'd with a Persian Carpet of Silk and Silver, and at the four cor∣ners, great Copper Candlesticks with Wax Tapers, besides several Lamps and Ostridge-Shells that hung down from the Roof. We saw a great number of Moores without, and within sat two Dervi's reading the Alcoran.

About a Musket-Shot from Moussul toward the North-East, stands a great Ruin'd Monastery, enclos'd with high Walls, the greatest part whereof is still to be seen.

We stay'd ten days at Moussul, and having provided all things ready for the rest of our Journey, we set forward for Ispahan.

CHAP. V. A Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Ispahan: Together with the Story of an Ambassador, call'd Dominico de Santis.

HAving pass'd the Tigris, we stay'd three quarters of an hours Journey from Nineveh for some Merchants that were to go along with the Cara∣van. The way which we took was not the usual Road to Persia; but it was a way wherein there were less Duties to be paid; and besides, it was a short cut, the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo and Ispahan. From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that Evening, we saw nothing but continu'd Ruines, which makes me believe, it was the place where the ancient Nineveh stood.

We stay'd two days near the Mosquée, where according to the tradition of the Turks, Jonas was bury'd, and made choice of a Curd, or Assyrian for our Cara∣van-Basbi, though the people are generally Thieves, and must be carefully look'd after. But it was a piece of Policy, because we were to cross the ancient Assyria, now call'd Curdistan; the Language of which Country is a particular Speech.

In the two first days Journey we cross'd two small Rivers that fall from the Moun∣tains, and empty themselves into Tigris. Our first Journey was through a plain Country all along by the side of a little River; and the second Evening we lodg'd by the side of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North, and running to the South, discharges it self into Tigris. It is call'd Bohrus, being a very rapid Stream, full of Fish, but more especially excellent Trouts. The Caravan was two days passing that River, by reason there were no Boats. For the people are forc'd to tye long Perches four or five together one upon another, which the Natives call a Kilet. They make it four-square, and put underneath it about a hundred Goat-Skins full of wind, to the end the Kilet may not touch the water. Besides the Merchant must be careful to spread good store of thick Felts over the Kilet, of which he must be provided to keep off the Water, least the Bales that sink the Kilet should take wet. At the four corners are four Perches that serve for Oars, though they avail but little against the force of the Tide; so that you must be forc'd to hale the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a' this side up the River, and then row down the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods. When the Goods are Landed, the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main strength out of the water, to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appoin∣ted to carry them. As for the Horses, Mules, and Asses, as well those that carri'd

the Goods, as those upon which the Men ride; so soon as the Herds-men thereabout see a Caravan coming, they stock to the River-side. Those people that wear nothing but a course piece of Linnen or a Goat-skin to cover their nakedness, take off their Cloaths and wind them about their Heads, like a Turbant. Then every one tyes a Goat-skin blow'd up under his Stomach; and then two or three of the most expert mounting the same number of the best Horses, which are bridl'd, put themselves first into the Water, while others follow them swimming, and drive the Horses before them; holding the Beast by the Tayl with one Hand, and switching him with the other. If they find any Horse or Ass that is too weak, they tye a Goat∣skin under his Belly to help him. Considering which difficulties, it cannot take up less time than I have mention'd to get over a Caravan of five or six hundred Horses.

The Caravan being thus got over, for two or three days has but a very bad Road. The first days journey, the Horses were continually in the Water up to the mid-leg; and the second, and part of the third we travel'd through a very desert Country, where we met with very little food, for our Horses, and only a few Brakes to boyl our Rice. Having got over this bad way, we came to a River call'd the great Zarbe, over which we pass'd upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches. They report that this Bridge was built by Alexander the Great, in his March against Darius. A quarter of a League to the South-East, two Rivers meet, which empty themselves into Tigris. Lea∣ving the Bridge, we came to a Town call'd Sherazoul, built upon a rising Ground, upon three Redoubts. There resides a Basha, who must be brib'd with a small Present to let the Caravan pass; we lay by the Banks of a River, and staid there two days. From thence we travel'd one days journey over dry Mountains, not finding any Water. But the next day we came into a pleasant Plain, stor'd with Fruit-trees. This was the Plain of Arbele, where Alexander defeated Darius; containing about fifteen Leagues in all. It is water'd with several Rivulets, and in the middle of the Mountain rises a little Hill about half a League in circuit. It is all over cover'd with the fairest Oaks that ever were seen; and on the top are the Ruines of a Castle, that seems to have been a sumptuous Structure. The Country-people say that Darius staid there while his Captains gave Battel to Alexander. Three Leagues from thence, near a great Mountain toward the North, are to be seen the Ruines of another Castle and several Houses, where they add, that Darius secur'd some of his Wives when he lost the Battel. This Castle is seated in a most lovely Prospect. At the foot of the Mountain rises a Spring, which a quarter of a League off swells into a River that bears good big Boats. It runs winding about the Mountains to the Southward; so that two days journey from the Hill, you cross it near a Town call'd Sherazoul, over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches, whereof the Great Sha-Abas caus'd three to be brok'n down, after he had tak'n Bagdat.

This City of Sherazoul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities in those parts, being all cut out of a steep Rock for a quarter of a League together, so that you must go up to the Houses by Stairs of fifteen, or twenty steps, some∣times more, sometimes less, according to the situation of the place. The people have no other Doors to their Houses than only a thin round Stone, like a Mill-stone, which they will roll away when they go in or out, the sides of the Wall being so cut as to receive the Stone like a Case, being level with the Rock.

The tops of their Houses are like Niches in the Mountain, where the Inhabi∣tants have contriv'd Caves to keep their Cattel in: So that we judg'd it to be built for a place of safety to secure the Inhabitants from the Incursions of the Arabians and Bedouins of Mesopotamia.

We came to Sherazoul upon Easter-Eve, and staid there three days to refresh our selves, after a Lent which we had kept very sparingly. Here I found certain Springs that rose up in large Bubbles, which after I had mix'd with two Glasses of Wine and drank up, I found to have a Purgative quality, having a kind of Mineral tast. These Springs boyl up near the side of a River call'd Altun-sou, or, The River of Gold, that falls into the River Tigris, three days journey on this side Bagdat.

The next day we lay at a pitiful Town, upon the Frontiers of Turkie and Persia.

The next day, being the fifth after we set out from Niniveh, we pass'd over

several Fenns and hot Waters, that part the two Empires. Entring thus into Persia, we met with a high Mountain cover'd with fair Oaks, which bear the Gall-Nuts, so high, that the Caravan was some hours ere it could get to the top. As we ascended, but especially when we were up, we heard several Muskets go off. At first we thought the people had been hunting the wild Boars or Stags, of which the Mountains are full: but the report of the Guns being too loud and too thick for Hunters, we stood upon our guard; and I believe we should have mended our paces, had we known what was intended us. Besides, I remember'd that the Country-people would not sell any thing but for Powder and Bullet, which the Caravan-Bashi advis'd me not to let them have, for fear they should make use of it against our selves. From the Mountain we descended into a fertil Plain, water'd with several Rivers; and night approaching, we set up our Tents, not fearing any thing, because we were in the Dominions of the King of Persia, where there is so much security in travelling. After that we sent our Servants to the Tents of the Country-men, but they brought us nothing but Bread made of Acorns, than which the poor people thereabouts eat no other. This Acorn is about the bigness of our Nuts; and once I met with a Branch that had thirty Acorns, and twenty-three Gall-Nuts, all at one time growing upon it.

The Province which we travel'd through then, compos'd the greatest part of the ancient Assyria. But now to come to the Story of Dominico de Santis the Ve∣netian. He had Letters of Credence from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of Poland, and the Republick of Venice, to the King of Persia; and he went in the Caravan through the Grand Signor's Territories, never discovering himself who he was; but coming into Persia, he took upon him without fear the Title of Ambassa∣dor from the Commonwealth of Venice.

From the Plain where we lodg'd, it is two days journey to a good big Town, to which belongs a Fortress, where the Governour of the Province has a Lieutenant, with about two thousand Horse under his Command. The Fortress is upon the right hand toward the South, after three hours riding upon the High-way. To this Lieutenant, the Caravan-Bashi was according to duty bound to give notice of the Arrival of the Caravan, and an account of the Persons and their Merchandize. This Venetian was a person ill fitted for the quality of an Ambassador, being a person of no Parts; which made me wonder that such great Princes, and so wise a Commonwealth should send such a person upon a Concern of that importance. For the Grand Signor then assailing Candy, he was sent to excite the King of Persia to engage him in a War against the Turk, thereby to keep off the Storm that threaten'd Christendom. Thereupon I told the Ambassador, that it was necessary for him to give the Commander of the Fort first notice of his coming, to the end he might give advice thereof to Solyman-Kan Governour of the Province, whose duty it was to advertise the King. Thereupon he requested me to send my Inter∣preter, which I did. Upon whose intelligence the Lieutenant of the Fort came to Compliment the Ambassador on the behalf of the chief Commander, and to conduct him to the Castle.

Thereupon the Ambassador, my self, and my Interpreter, together with some Armenian Merchants went with him, travelling for three hours over the Mountains. By that time we came half the way, as we pass'd through a Wood, we heard as it were some person give a Whistle; at which when the Lieutenant perceiv'd us to be somewhat startl'd, he carry'd us to the place from whence the Whistle came, where we saw a Serpent about as big as a Man's Thigh, and about twelve Foot long, whose head was squeez'd between two Trees, that put him to pain. From that Mountain we descended into a pleasant Plain, where the Commander of the Fortress staid for us under his Tent. He had set it up by the side of a River, under the shade of several great Walnut-trees. So soon as he saw us, he rose from his great Silk Tapestry Coverlet, and saluted us in a most civil manner, telling us, that assuredly Sha-Abas, his Master, would be very glad to hear that the Monarchs of Christendom had sent him an Ambassador, and that he would write to Solyman-Kan, whose duty it was to advertise the Emperour. Thereupon he wrote and dispatch'd away a Messenger, giving him order to tell the Deroga, or Judge of the Town, through which we were to pass, that he should make Provision for us and our Horses 'till we came to the Governour. After he had ask'd us several Questions

concerning the War between the Grand Signor and the Venetians, how many thou∣sand men he had as well by Sea as Land, and what number of Galleys and Ships? wherein we satisfy'd him according to the best of our knowledge. After he had civilly treated us, he sent his Lieutenant back with us again to the Caravan. About ten a Clock the next night we dislodg'd, and the Lieutenant and six Souldiers attended upon us; who told us he had order not to leave us, 'till he had brought us to Solyman Kan.

The next night we lodg'd between two Hills, among several Tents of Herds∣men. Here it was that the Commander had order'd that we should be treated by the Deroga. A Deroga, as I have said, is the Judge of a Village: But this De∣roga was chief of many Families, some of which were of Mesopotamia, others of Arabia. These are all Herdsmen that never live in Houses, but retire with their Cattle to the holes in the Rocks, where partly Nature, partly Art, have contri∣buted to make them convenient Habitations.

So soon as we were alighted, four ancient men came and led the Ambassador and my self to the Deroga's Tent. It seem'd to consist of many Rooms, with a Hall in the middle, spread with fair Persian Carpets. He caus'd us to sit down upon Cushions, and then presented us with a Pipe of Tobacco, and Water to wash our Feet. After he had nobly treated us, and that we were upon taking our leaves, the Deroga was very much troubl'd that we had made a small Present to his Son; telling us, that it was a crime for him to take any thing of the King's Guests, especially from Strangers that had come so long a Journey.

The next day we lodg'd in a place where there was such a prodigious quantity of Lillies that the Ground was almost cover'd with them. There were none that were white, being for the most part of a fair Violet colour, with a streak of Red in the middle of every leaf; they are like our Lilly's, but much bigger. And to drink the infusion of the Roots of these Lilly's, especially those whose Leaves are blackest, for fifteen days together, is a most Soveraign remedy against the Pox. Not long after came a Person of a goodly Aspect, who seem'd to be an Arabian, but he spoke the Persian Language, whom Solyman Kan had sent to Compliment the Ambassador. He carry'd us to the Tent which the Governour had caus'd to be set up in a Garden near the Town, where he also Lodg'd the Capuchins. The Ambassa∣dor also sent to Compliment the Kan by my interpreter; and when the hour was come that we were to set forward, he gave order to six of the Captains of his Ca∣valry to accompany the Ambassador. The House where the Governour liv'd in, was one of the most beautiful in Persia. And as for the Governour himself, we found him in a Gallery that look'd upon the Garden, the Floor being all spread over with a Tapestry of Gold and Silk, with large Cushions of Cloth of Gold all along the Wall. After some Questions and discourse concerning the Affairs of Europe, they serv'd in Supper, which consisted of several Dishes; but no Wine was to be had; our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates, with Sugar for those that desir'd it. We were a long time at Supper, for 'tis the custom of Persia that when one man rises, another takes his place and falls too, in so much that the Master of the Feast must have the Patience to stay 'till several have tak'n their turns; and when every one has done, the Cloth is tak'n away without any more to do. Here the Ambassador committed an absurdity; for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in Persia, but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way. Now the Ambassa∣dor reaching his Ladle to a Purslane-Dish full of Pottage that was scalding hot, clap'd it presently into his mouth; but finding it so hot that he could not endure it, after several scurvy faces, he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand, in the presence of all the Company.

After we had stay'd five days at Sneirne, the Caravan-Bashi signifi'd his desire to pursue his Journey. Thereupon the Ambassador took his leave of the Governour, presenting him with a Watch and a pair of Pistols; who in retaliation presented the Ambassador with a stately Horse, and a Colt of two years old. The next day we dislodg'd, and pursu'd our Road to Amadan, which is not above three days Journey from Sneirne.

Amadan is one of the largest and most considerable Cities of Persia, seated at the foot of a Mountain, where do arise an infinite company of Springs that water all the Country. The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice, wherewith it furnishes

the greatest part of the neighbouring Provinces. Which is the reason that some of the Persian States-men hold it very inconvenient for the King of Persia to keep Bagdat, as well by reason of the vastness of the Charge, as also for that it draws from Amadan that which should supply other Provinces. On the other side, it is easie for the Grand Signor to hold it, by reason of the neighbourhood of Mesopo∣tamia, Assyria, and the Arabs, Enemies to the Persians: by which means Provi∣sions are very cheap, which the people would not know where to put off, if the King of Persia were Lord of Bagdat.

We staid at Amadan about ten days, by reason of the Rains; during which time the Caravans cannot travel. While we tarry'd there, we were visited by several Babylonian Christians, who were glad to see that we had escap'd the Clutches of the Basha of Bagdat, who had giv'n order to the Basha of Karkou, and the Bey of Sharassou that commands the Frontiers of Turkie, to seize us, and carry us back to Bagdat. For which we might have thank'd the Ambassador, and a malicious Rabbi, that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo; who finding the Feast of the Tabernacles to be at hand, and that we had a great way to Ispahan, left us at Ni∣niveh, to keep the Festival with the Jews of Babylon. Where that he might insi∣nuate himself into the Basha's favour, he inform'd him that there was a Fringuiz in the Caravan, whom he look'd upon as a Spy, and that he was an Envoy into Persia from the Commonwealth of Venice; for he carry'd no Merchandize, but had three Chests full of rich Habits, and several other things which he took for Presens to the Persian King. For out of vanity or folly, the Venetian had several times open'd his Chest and expos'd his Gallantry to view. And yet he was so clutch-fisted and niggardly in every thing, that when there was any occasion to reward the Kan's Servant, or any of the Country-men that brought us the Dainties of the place, it came all out of my Pocket. So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Ca∣puchins; and with three Servants and a Guide, after I had staid at Amadan three days, I took Horse for Ispahan.

When I came there, the Nazar or Master of the King's Houshold hearing I had left an Ambassador behind me with the Caravan, enquir'd of me what manner of Person he was, but I pretended I had had little converse with him, unwilling to discover his mean Spirit. The Evening before his Arrival the Nazar sent to give the Fringuiz notice in the King's Name, that they should be ready to go meet the Ambassador the next day; which we did, and brought him into the City and through Ali's Gate, that joyns to the King's Palace. Now 'tis the custom for all Ambassadors to salute that Gate, by reason of a white Marble Stone made like an Asses back, and which serves for a Step: being, as they report, brought anciently out of Arabia, where Ali liv'd. So soon as you have strid over that Stone without touching it, which were a great crime, you enter into a kind of a Gallery, where there are Rooms on each side, which serves for a Sanctuary for Criminals, which the King himself cannot fetch out of that place. That day that the new King receives his Ensigns of Royalty, he goes to stride over that Stone; and if by negli∣gence he should chance to touch it, there are four Guards at the Gate, that would make a shew of thrusting him back again.

But now the Master of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambassador to the Apartment alotted him, as an Ambassador that came from three great Mo∣narchs, and a potent Commonwealth, he desir'd to lodge at the House of one Pietro Pentalet, descended from Venetian Parents; whereupon the Master of the Ceremonies conducted him thither, and caus'd his Dinner to be brought him. While we were eating, I counted thirteen Languages spoken at the Table; Latin, French, High-Dutch, English, Low-Dutch, Italian, Portuguez, Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Indian, Syriac, and Malaye, which is the Language of the Learned, that is spoken from the River Indus to China and Japan, and in all the Ilands of the East, like Latin in Europe; not reck'ning the little Moresco or Gibbrish of the Country. So that it is a difficult thing to observe what is talk'd in one Company, where the Discourse begins in one Language, is pursu'd in another, and finish'd in a third: and for the Turks and Armenians, they never speak above three or four Languages at most.

Now to shew you the Civility of the Persians; the Master of the Ceremonies came to the Ambassador and told him, that if he did not like the Cookery of the Persians, he had Order from the Atemadoulet, who is as the Grand Vizier in Turkie, to offer him

Money instead of Diet, to the end he might dress his own Meat as he pleas'd him∣self. Upon which the covetous Ambassador accepted his offer, and two hours after there was a Bag brought him of 50 Tomans, which amount to about 800 Crowns. The Franks being offended at his baseness, slighted the Ambassador, and left him to keep House by himself, which was poor enough God knows; an Onion or a Turnep serving his turn for a Meal. Some days after, he had Audience of the King, to whom he presented his Letters Credential from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of Poland, and the Commonwealth of Venice. Those from the three last were well receiv'd, because the Seals were of Gold, and for that the Paper was embelish'd with curious Flourishes: but the Pope's Letters were rejected with scorn, because the Seals were only of Lead, as the Bulls are usually seal'd; and for that the Writing was very plain. For the Kings of Persia, who are very nice, love things that are gay to the Eye; otherwise they look upon themselves to be affronted. Dominico de Santis had better have tak'n upon him the meaner quality of an Envoy, than the title of an Ambassador, unless he had known better how to behave himself; especially being so eclips'd as he was by a real Ambassador that arriv'd at Ispahan some time after. All the Franks went forth to meet him, and the Master of the Ceremonies made him the same proffers as he had done to the Venetian: but he nobly answer'd, That what∣ever it were that the King of Persia sent him, he should take it for a very great Honour: otherwise, if he would have eaten Gold, the King his Master would have allow'd him 30 Mules Load. Such persons as behave themselves with decency and a good grace, are the persons that the Christian Princes should send into Persia, who are the most refin'd Wits, and the best Politicians of all Asia.

To conclude the Story of the Venetian, I will give you his Character. An Indian naturally of a good Wit having embrac'd Christianity and an Ecclesiastical Life, went to Rome to complete his Studies which he had begun at Goa; whither, the Pope, taking an affection to him, sent him afterward as his Vicar. Dominico de Santis being then at Rome, put himself into his service, and follow'd him into the Indies, where I saw him the first time I went, in a mean condition. Upon his return to Venice, where he was in no credit before, he made people believe that he understood the Trade of Asia; whereupon some particular Merchants trusted him with some Goods, which were cast away at Seide. Thus poor and bare he return'd to Goa, where he got 800 Crowns by a charitable Contribution. From thence he travel'd to Ispahan, where he fell into the acquaintance of Father Rigordi a Jesoite, with whom he went into Poland: where making his brags of the great knowledge he had of the Affairs of Persia, the King gave him that Commission which I have already mention'd. The Emperour follow'd his Example, and the Commonwealth of Venice did the same: and to give the more lustre and authority to his Embassy, they got the Pope to joyn with them. But alas! both Dominico de Santis, and all such persons as he, that go into Asia without Brains and good Behaviour, do out prostitute the Reputation of the Princes that send them. Such another was Father Rigordi, who after he had been thrust out of Goa by the Portugals, went to Ispahan, where he insinuated himself by a Proposition which he made of Marrying the King of Persia, who was then a very young Prince, to the Dutchess of Orleanoe. Under which pretence he was well receiv'd and treated by the King; from whom he also recerv'd some Presents by virtue of that Proposal, which was good sport to the Dutchess when she heard of it.

As for the Venetian, the Atemudoulet, who was very glad to be rid of him, desir'd the Muscovite Ambassador, who was then upon his return home, to take him along with him, which he did as far as the Caspian Sea, where they take Shipping for Astracan; but there the Muscovite told him he could carry him no further: thereupon he was forc'd to come back to Ispahan, and so to travel to Goa, whence the Portugals shipt thim home for Charities sake. But when he came to Venice, has was so far from being well receiv'd, that the Senate had like to have punish'd him severely for giving so bad an account of his Negotiation.

CHAP. VI. Of the Road which the Author kept, when he Travell'd the fourth time into Asia, to go from Paris to Ormus. And first of his Voyage from Marseilles to Alexandretta.

ISet out from Paris in the company of Monsieur d'Ardiliere the eighteenth of June, 1651. and arriv'd at Marseilles the sixteenth of July. On the twenty-sixth of August we set Sail, with a favourable North-West Wind that blew very briskly the two next days; but at length it grew so very slack, that coming about to the North. North-East, we made for Sardinia. Upon the second of September by Sun-rising, we discover'd the Western Coast of Sardinia, six Leagues from the Land. About Noon the Wind chopping about again to the North-West, we held on our first Course; and upon the third of September, we descry'd the Island Galita upon the Coast of Africa. On the fourth we discover'd the Island of Zambino before Tunis, and about Evening Cape Bon, which is the most Southerly Point of all Africa. The fifth we had a sight of the Island of Pantalaria, and the Coast of Sicily. The sixth we discover'd the Island of Goza, and the seventh the Castle that bears the same name.

We landed at Malta upon the day of the Nativity of the Virgin, which is a great day among the Maltesi, upon which they give thanks to God, for that the Turks rais'd their Siege upon that day.

The Grand-Master goes to the Church of St. John, accompany'd with all the chief Commanders in their Robes of Command, and the greatest part of the Knights. All the Country-men and Citizens are up in Arms upon that day, and march to the Inn call'd the Auvernian-house, with the Knight that goes to fetch the Standard. This Knight is clad in a Cassock of Crimson-Velvet, with a Cross of the Order, be∣fore and behind. He wears a Helmet upon his head, and carries the Standard upon his shoulders; and by him marches the Grand-Master's Page, who carries a Sword in one hand, and a Dagger in the other, both very richly Embellish'd, and giv'n to the Order by CHARLES the fifth. The Page that carry'd the Sword and Dagger was the youngest Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth. The Souldiers and Citizens marching before to the Church door, make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to pass on to the Altar, where the Knight makes three bows, and having done as much to the Grand-Master, places himself on the right hand of the Grand-Masters Chair, and the Page on the left. Then the Mass and the Musick begins, and while the Gospel is reading, the Grand-Master takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the Page's hand, and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the Mass. During the Elevation of the Host, the Knights repeats the same Ceremony as at the beginning; and then the Bells ring, the great Guns go off, and the Soul∣diers give three Vollies. Mass being ended, the Grand-Master retires, accom∣pany'd as before, only that he is then attended by all the Ecclesiastical persons of the City, and coming out of the Church, he proceeds with all the Infantry marching before him toward our Lady's of Victory, where they all go in procession. While they make a stand in that place, the Souldiers give another Volley, which is an∣swer'd by all the Canons in the Town, as also from the Ships and Galleys. After that they return to St. John's; and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn, while the Grand-Master goes to his Palace.

The ninth we view'd the Fortifications, which are stor'd with very fair pieces of Canon.

The tenth we saw the Pages perform their Exercises before the Grand-master, which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms, both Musquet and Pike.

The elev'nth we view'd the Arsenal, where I was assur'd that there were Arms for twenty thousand men, being in good order, and rarely well look'd after.

The next day we visited the Infirmery, where the sick are serv'd in Plate, as well the poor as rich.

The twentieth we set Sail, having the Wind at West-South-West, and a fresh gale; so that upon the twenty-third we discover'd the Coast of the Morea, to which we approach'd so near, as to descry Navarin. In the Evening we saw the City of Coron, where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl. From thence it was that the Great Turk Embarqu'd for Candy in the year 1645.

The twenty-fourth the Wind was at East-North-East. In the Morning we disco∣ver'd the Cape of Matapan, which is the most Southern Point of Land in Europe, lying in the Morea, and at Noon the Iland of Cherigo.

The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus, and descry'd a Mountain in that Iland, call'd Canteliere, with some other Promontories toward the South.

From the twenty-seventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta, we perceiv'd the Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-stones, which happ'nd from an Earth∣quake that had for some time before swallow'd up the Iland of Santorini. Some think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur, of which that Country is full, which took Fire, and was the death of above 750 of the Ilanders, that were partly buried in the Ruines, and partly dy'd out of fear. They that remain'd alive, became black like Charcoal; and the Vapours that ascended out of the Abyss fully'd all the Silver as far as Constantinople; the noise of the Earthquake being heard as far as Smyrna.

The twenty-ninth, by break of day we discover'd the Iland of Cyprus.

The first of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines, which is one of the Ports of Cyprus, where our Consuls live. Here I ask'd several of the Christians of the Country, how they did to live and pay their Carage? Who told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty, in regard the Iland was very bare of Money; which was the reason that many Christians turn'd Mahometans, to avoid paying their Carage, which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor Iayes upon all Christians throughout his Dominions. He exacts from the poorest six Piasters a Head; but there are some that pay a hundred, or a hundred and fifty: and this Tribute is due so soon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age.

The Iland of Cyprus is one of the most considerable in the Mediterranean Sea, more to the East than any of the rest; bearing the title of a Kingdom, as being 500 Miles in circuit. It is not all of the same bredth, being of a triangular form, the sides whereof are very unequal. To it there belong several Capes or Promon∣tories, the principal whereof are, St. Epiphanio, toward the West; Cape de Gate, toward the South; Cape Diegrega, toward the North-East; Cape Cormachiti, toward the North; and Cape St. Andrew, upon the most Eastern Point of the Iland. The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines or Cerigni. The Haven of Famagosta signifies nothing as to great Ships, there being none but small Vessels that can ride there. The Venetians had formerly made a small Mole there to harbour their Gallies, but it is now quite ruin'd. The Road of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania, and Payasses; and where the Basha's land that are sent as Governours of the Iland from Constantinople, who reside generally at Nicosia. That City is almost in the middle of the Iland, and was formerly a very large one, as appears by the compass of the ancient Walls. The new Walls are well terrass'd within-side, and in a good posture of defence. There are three Gates belong to the City; that of Famagosta, that of Paphos, and that of Cerines. The City it self is no uncomely place; the Venetians having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces, which the Turks demolish every day, out of hopes to find hidd'n Treasure therein, and sell the Stones to build new Houses. The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure, of which the Turks have now made a Mosquee, together with one more, which was formerly a Monastery belonging to the Austin-Fryars. The Greeks have there four Churches, and the Franks two; that is to say, the French Missionary Capuchins, and the Italian Missionary Soccolans. The first have a Church dedicated to St. James, the others another, which is call'd Holy Rood Church. The Armenians also have another belonging to them, which is a very neat Building, which was formerly a Monastery of the Carthusians. There it is that there is a Tomb, adorn'd with several Sculptures of Religious Nunns, especially an Abbess with a Cross in her Hand, the Writing about the Stone being in French Characters. The City is seated in a temperate Air and a fertil Soil, abounding with Water. It extends more in length than bredth,

having been anciently nine Miles in compass; but the Venetians to make it stronger, reduc'd it to the circuit of three. The Work of the Fortification was so neat, and such a proportion observ'd in all things, that the most famous Engineers esteem'd it one of the most stately Fortresses in the World, when Sclim the Second sent an Army against it, under the Command of Mustapha his Grand Vizier.

Famagosta is a Sea-Town upon the East-side of the Iland, and the chief Bulwark of it. It is kept in good repair, the Castle within being in form of a Cittadel. The Turks have converted into Mosquees the Churches of the Christians, who are not suffer'd to dwell in the City. They have only the liberty to come thither in the day, and to open Shops, which they shut up again at night, and then go home to their Houses in the neighbouring Villages. The City is govern'd by a Bey, who has no depen∣dance upon the Governour of the Iland, who is oblig'd to maintain a Galley for the guard of the Coast.

Cerines is another little City, but without any defence, the Walls thereof being all tumbl'd to ruine. Only there is a Fortress toward the Sea, well built, with a Garrison in it. There is also a handsom Monastery of Religious Greeks, built somewhat after the French manner; wherein there are some of the Cells which stand so upon the Sea, that they can fish out of the Windows. The Fields about it bear Cotton, which is the chief Revenue of the Monastery. There is only the Fort of Cerines upon the North, where the Iland does not lye so open, as toward the South and East; which besides by that of Famagosta, are guarded by the Forts of Salines, Limisso, and Paphos. The Inhabitants of the Iland are for the most part Greeks, especially in the Villages. They are clad after the Italian manner, both Men and Women; the Men wearing Hats like the Franks, and retaining their ancient Customs as much as is possible for them to do. The Trade of the Iland lyes in Cotton-wool, which is the best in all the East; and some Silk, which is neither good, nor very plentiful. However the Iland is fertil enough, did it not want In∣habitants enow to till it. As for Bread, Wine, Cheese, and Milk, they are all very cheap, and there is Oyl enough to serve the Iland. But for the Wine, it is trans∣ported out of the Iland to all the places of Trade not far distant. The best grows at the foot of Olympus, and is a delicious sort of Drink. The Country between Nicosia and Famagosta produces Cotton, of which there grows also some between Paphos and Limisso. The chief place where the Silk is made is call'd Cytherea, a large Town water'd with a fair River that runs from the Mountain of Venus. This River turns several Mills, which are the chief Revenue of the Iland. There is Silk also made between Paphos and Limisso; upon the Road between which two places you meet with a Town call'd Piscopi, where are to be seen several Aquaeducts, that carry'd the Water into the Rooms and Magazines where the people formerly made Sugar. But since the Iland was tak'n from the Venetians, one of the Basha's that was sent as Governour, burnt up all the Sugar Canes in the Country. Toward the Sea-shoar near Limisso, is to be seen one of the fairest Gardens of Cyprus, which they call Shiti; to which there belongs a magnificent House, and a Grove of Orange-Trees. It was built by a rich Venetian, who had a good Estate in Lands there∣abouts.

In Cyprus the people take a vast number of Birds as big as a Lark, especially near the Mountain of the Holy Cross. In the Months of September and October, the Country-people of the adjacent Villages make themselves little Hutts in the Fields, where usually those Birds are wont to light, and feed upon the Seed of an Herb that grows there; which when it is dry, the people daub over with Lime-twigs. But this they never do but when the North-West Wind blows, and that the weather be very cold; for with a Southerly Wind they never take any. These Birds are ac∣counted great Dainties by the Venetians, who make no great Feasts in Carnival-time wherein they do not set these Birds upon the Table, pil'd up in Dishes like a Pyramid. They buy them up every year; being first prepar'd fit for exportation by the people, who having pull'd off their Feathers, parboyl them, and pickle them up in Barrels with Vinegar and Salt. When they are to be eat'n, they are set upon a Chafing-dish, between two Dishes. Sometimes there are above a thousand Barrels exported out of the Iland; and indeed, were it not for this Trade, the poor people would see but very little Money.

Upon the Mountain of the Holy Cross stands a Church of the same name; upon

which the report of the Country goes, that St. Helena returning from Jerusalem left a piece of our Saviour's Cross with the Christians of Cyprus, who built a Church there, by means of the Liberality of the same Princess. Afterwards those of the Town of Leucara took it from hence, and carry'd it to their Church, where I saw it. The piece is as big as the Palm of a Man's Hand, set in a great Cross of Latten, emboss'd with several Figures.

In the Kingdom of Cyprus there is an Archbishop and three Suffragans. The Arch-bishop takes upon him the Title of Nicosia; to which Famagosta belongs with all the Country between Nicosia and Famagosta, with the Territories of Nicosia and all the Villages round. He has a House about a League from Nicosia, where the chiefest of his Revenue lies. Some years since he caus'd the high Altar of the Church to be painted and guilded, being a neat piece of Workmanship. Thus the Arch-bishop has under his Jurisdiction all the middle part of the Island, and some part toward the East. The Bishops are the Bishops of Paphos, Larneca; and Cerines.

The Greeks are very much addicted to the observation of their ancient Customs and Ceremonies; and generally their Masses are very long. Upon Sundays and Holy-days they rise between one and two of the Clock in the Morning to Sing Mat∣tins. To which purpose there is a Clerk that goes from door to door and knocks with a Hammer, to wake the people, and then cries out with a loud voice, Chri∣stians go the Church. The men and old women fail not to go as being more zealous; but the maids and young women never go out of doors in the night for fear of the Turks. There are seven or eight Villages, the Inhabitants whereof are Maronites, who came from Mount Libanus, and speak Arabic at home, but Greek among the Islanders. They follow the Romish Religion, and have their Churches peculiar to themselves.

The Island of Cyprus is no wholesom Air, being subject to the spoyl of a sort of Locusts, that some Summers destroy all their Fruit aud Corn. During the heats they hover in the Air, which they will dark'n with their number like a thick Cloud; but when the North Wind blows, it carry's them into the Sea, where they perish.

There are in Cyprus three sorts of colour'd Earth, a Grey-black, a Red, and a Yellow; of which the Venetians fetch away great quantities for their courser sort of Painting. There's also a Mine of White Alome, which is the stone call'd Dami∣antlius. 'Tis thought that the Ancients had a way to spin this Alome into a kind of Cotton, and so to make out of it a certain sort of Cloth that would not consume in the Fire, but only be the more perfectly whiten'd thereby. The Indians formerly bury'd the dead bodies of their Kings deceas'd in Shrouds of this kind of Linnen, and then putting them into the Fire, found the bodies all reduc'd to ashes, but the Cloth whole; out of which they took the ashes, and carefully put them into an Vrne, which was prepar'd for their preservation.

When the Basha of Cyprus has a mind to view the Fortress of Famagosta, he sends to give the Bey, who is Governour thereof, notice of it. For it is at the Gover∣nours choice whether he will give him admission or no. The Basha Hali-Giorgi, being a comely old man of above a hundred and two years of age, setting out of Nicosia in his Litter with about two hundred Horse, when he was come within half a League of Famagosta, the Governour of the place sent his Lieutenant with a hundred Horse to Compliment him, and to conduct him to the Town. Immediately they took upon them the Guard of the Basha's Litter, who was not permitted to take along with him above eight or ten of his principal Officers. The Cannons roar'd at his entry, and he was treated magnificently, but he lay not in the Town, be∣ing conducted back by the same party to the place where they met him in the Morning.

Upon the third day of October we set Sail about three a Clock in the Morning with a West-North-West Wind, and about Noon we were within sight of Famagosta, into which place we could by no means be admitted, by reason of the Wars be∣tween the Turks and Venetians. But as far as I could discern a far off, there is no easie access to the Port, and for the City I could descry no part of it.

The fourth, by break of day we got sight of the Coast of Syria, Cape Canger, and the Golf of Antioch, and about Evening we arriv'd in the Road of Alex∣andretta.

From thence we went to Aleppo, and stay'd there from the seventh of October; to the thirtieth of December.

On the thirtieth we set forward for Nineveh, and with little variation of the Road which I have already describ'd in my third Voyage from Paris. We arriv'd the second day of February at Moussul or Nineveh, where we stay'd 'till the fifteenth, 'till the Kilets or Boats of the Country could be got ready. Our Kilet carry'd thirty Pas∣sengers, and sixty hundred of Aleppo Weight, or thirty three thousand pound of Paris Weight, upon which the Tigris bore us from Moussul to Babylon.

CHAP. VII. A Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the fourth Voyage into Asia, and particularly of his passage upon the Tigris from Nineveh to Babylon.

THE fifteenth of February we put off from Moussul, and after we had swam six hours, we came to lye near a hot Bath, about a Musket-shot from the Tigris. It was throng'd with Sick people that came thither for their Recovery. We kept our selves upon the Watch all night; but for all we could do, the Arabs stole two Coverlets from a Merchant, and a Turk's Cloaths that was gone into the Bath.

The sixteenth, after we had row'd about five hours, we came to a huge Dam; it is 200 Foot wide, and makes a fall in the River of about 20 Fathoms steep. The Arabians said that Alexander the Great made it to turn the course of the River; others will have it, that Darius caus'd it to be made to hinder the passage of the Macedonians by Water. However, we were forc'd to land our selves and our Goods, and to lade them upon Horses which the Arabs brought us.

The passing this Dam is worthy observation. For it is a thing of wonder to see the Kilet all of a sudden fall above sixscore Foot, and yet to be kept by the Leather-Bottles still above Water. The Water-men that guide the Boat, tye them∣selves and their Oars fast to a Pearch bent like a Semicircle, to defend themselves from the force of the Water. And indeed this is the Dam that renders Tigris un∣navigable.

The Kilet being come to the place where we expected it, we put our Goods aboard, and lay in the same place upon the Bank of the River. For the Arabs, if they perceive the Merchants asleep, cut the Cords of the Kilet, and setting it a-drift, swim after it, and rifle away what they please.

The seventeenth, after three hours rowing we met with the River Zab, that empties into the Tigris, upon Chaldea-side. Half a League above the River stands a fair Castle of Brick upon a little Hill; but no body dwelling in it, it runs to ruine. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and came to lye at a place which was full of Wood, where we made great Fires, and shot off our Muskets often in the night to scare the Lions.

The eighteenth we were upon the Water eighteen hours, and lay upon the Bank of the River, upon Assyria-side. That Evening the Arabs brought us Milk-Meats, and fresh Butter. They swim from the other side of the River with a Boracho under their Stomachs, and another upon their Heads, wherein they bring their Commo∣dities; for which they will have no Money, but only Tobacco, or Bisket, or Pepper.

The nineteenth, in four hours time we met with a River call'd Altum-sou, or The River of Gold. It flows from the Mountains of the Medes, and I travel'd by the side of it for three days together, returning from Tauris to Aleppo, and passing the Tigris to Mesia. The Water of the River is of an excellent tast, and it falls into Tigris upon Assyria-side. All along the Tigris, on the same side, are great store of Bituminous Springs, and other Streams of hot Water that smell of Sulphur. All that

day we saw none but Arabs and Curds marching along the Banks of the River, the Curds upon Mesopotamia side, and the Arabs upon Assyria side. They were at War, and both sides march'd in very good order. The Young men went formost with Bows and Arrows, and some Muskets, but several Half-Pikes. Next to them their Wives, Virgins, and Children, with their Cattel, Herds, and Camels; after which march'd the Old men in the rear. As well the Curds as the Arabians sent out Horse-men to scout upon the high Grounds; for as soon as they find any advantage, they presently swim their Horses over the River and fall on. Now because we would not trust those sort of People, we row'd nineteen hours to avoid 'em.

The twentieth we were eleven hours upon the Tigris, and came to lye at a Town call'd Tegrit, upon Mesopotamia side. There belongs to the Town a Castle half ruin'd, and yet there are still some handsom Chambers to be seen. Upon the North and East, the River serves for a Moat; but upon the West and South it has a deep Artificial one pav'd with Free-stone. The Arabians say that formerly it was the strongest place in all Mesopotamia, though it be commanded by two Hills not far from it. The Christians dwelt half a League from the City, where the Ruines of a Church and part of a Steeple are still to be seen, whereby it appears to have been a considerable Pile of Building.

The twenty-first, after we had row'd three hours, we met with a Town upon Assyria side, which was call'd Amet-el-tour, from the name of a person that lyes inter'd in a Monastery, whom the people account to be a Saint. Therefore is it a place of great Devotion among them, so that great numbers of Votaries go thither in private. That day we were twelve hours upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of the River.

The twenty-second, having been upon the Water two hours, we met with a great Channel cut out of Tigris to water the Lands, which runs up as far as just over∣against Bagdat, and there falls into the Tigris again. Coming thither, we landed upon Chaldea side, by reason that there were certain Turks with us, who would of necessity perform their Devotions at a place call'd Samàtra. In the same there is a Mosquee not above half a League from the River; to which many Mahometans pay their Devoirs, especially Indians and Tartars, who believe forty of their Pro∣phets to be buried there. When they knew us to be Christians, they would not permit us, no not for Money, to set our Feet in it. About five hundred Paces from the Mosquee stands a Tower very ingeniously built. There are two Stair-cases without, that belong to it, made twirling like a Periwinkle-shell: one of which Stair-cases was built deeper into the Tower than the other. I would have taken better notice of it, could I have been permitted to have come nearer it. Only I observ'd that it was made of Brick, and that it seems to be very ancient. Half a League from thence appear three great Portals, that look as if they had been the Gates of some great Palace. And indeed it is not improbable but that there was some great City thereabouts; for, for three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be seen but Ruines. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and lay upon the Banks of Tigris, according to custom.

The twenty-third, we were twenty hours upon the Water, and all the day long we saw nothing upon either side of the River but pitiful Hutts made of the Branches of Palm-trees, where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels, by means whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds. We also met that day with a River call'd Odoine, that falls into Tigris upon the side of the ancient Chaldea.

The twenty-fourth, we were twenty-two hours upon the Water together, never stirring off from the Kilet. The reason is, because the Merchants having tak'n out of the Kilet all their Money and the best part of their Merchandizes, give them to the Country-people, who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat, whither they go to sell their own Commodities: which the Merchants do, to avoid the payment of Five in the Hundred, in the City. I trusted them also with several things of which they gave me a very good account, as they did to others, being contented with a small matter for their pains.

The twenty-fifth, about four of the Clock in the Morning we arriv'd at Bagdat, which is as usually call'd Babylon. They open the Gates by six, and then the Customers come to take an account of the Merchandize, and to search the Merchants themselves. If they find nothing about 'em, they let the Merchants go: but if

they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay, they carry the persons to the Custom-House, where they write down the quantity of the Goods, and let them go. All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither also, which the Mer∣chant fetches away again in two or three days, paying the Custom: All which is done in very great order, without any noise or disturbance in the least.

Though Bagdat usually bear the name of Babylon, yet it is at a great distance from the ancient Babylon, whereof in due place. But now for Bagdat, as it stands at this day.

Bagdat is a City seated upon the River of Tigris, on the Coast of Persia, and se∣parated from Mesopotamia by the same River. It lyes in 33 Deg. 15 Min. of Ele∣vation. The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their Califfs nam'd Almansour, in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145, and of Christianity 762, or thereabouts. They call it Dar-al-sani, that is, the House of Peace. Some say it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that stood in a Meadow where the City now stands, whence it was call'd Bagdat, or, a Garden bequeath'd. About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn, the Work-men found a Body entire, habited like a Bishop, with a Censor and Incense by him. And in the same place several Cells of Religious Houses shew'd themselves: which makes it very probable, that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monastery, with several Houses where the Christians inhabited. The City is about fifteen hundred Paces long, and sev'n or eight hundred broad, and cannot possibly be above three Miles in circuit. The Walls are of Brick, and terrass'd in some places, with large Towers like Bastions. Upon all these Towers there are mounted about sixty pieces of Cannon, the biggest whereof carries not above a five or six Pound Ball. The Moats are wide, and about five or six Fathom deep. There are not above four Gates; three upon the Land-side, and one upon the River, which you must cross, over a Bridge of thirty-three Boats, distant one from the other about the bredth of one Boat. The Castle is in the City, near to one of the Gates call'd El-Maazan, upon the North side. It is partly built upon the River, encompass'd only with a single Wall, terrass'd in some places; and adorn'd with little Towers, upon which are planted about a hundred and fifty Cannon, but without Carriages. The Moat is narrow, and not above two or three Fathom deep, neither is there any Draw-Bridge before the Gate. The Garrison consists of three hundred Janizaries, commanded by an Aga. The City is govern'd by a Basha, who is generally a Vizier. His House is upon the side of the River, making a fair shew; and he has alway ready at com∣mand six or sev'n hundred Horse. There is also an Aga that commands three or four hundred Spahi's. They have besides another sort of Cavalry which is call'd Gin∣guliler, that is to say, Men of Courage, commanded by two Aga's; and usually there are about three thousand in the City and the Towns adjoyning. The Keys of the Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the custody of another Aga, who has under him two hundred Janizaries. There are also six hundred Foot-men, who have their particular Aga, and about sixty Cannoneers, who were at that time commanded by an expert Artist that went by the name of Signor Michaël, who pass'd for a Turk, though he were born in Candy. He put himself into the Grand Signor's service, when he went to besiege Bagdat, in the year 1638. Though the Turk had the good fortune to carry the City in a small time; not so much by virtue of the Breach which Signor Michaël had made in the Wall, as the Sedition and Revolt that hap∣pen'd at the same instant, the Story whereof was thus in short.

The Kan that sustain'd the brunt of the Siege at first, was originally an Armenian, and his name was Sefi-couli-Kan. He had commanded the City a long time, and had defended it twice from the Army of the Turks, who were not able to take it before. But the King of Persia having sent one of his Favourites to command in his room, who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach, the old Kan finding himself displac'd by the Commission of the new Governour, rather chose to dye, than survive the Affront which was put upon him. To which purpose he sent for his Servants, the Officers of the Army, his Wife and Son, and taking three Cups of Poyson in his Hand, he commanded his Wife, if ever she lov'd him, now to shew the marks of her affection by generously dying with him. He gave the same exhortation to his Son; and so all three together drank up the Poyson, which procur'd their speedy death. The Souldiers, who had a great love for their Governour,

having beheld so dismal a Spectacle, and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing for a general Assault, would not obey their new Kan, but began to act like Re∣volter's; and to that purpose they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition they might march away with their Arms and Baggage: but the Turks did not keep their words. For so soon as the Turks were got into the City; the Basha's told the Grand Signor, that to weak'n the force of the Persian, it was necessary for him to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City: and thereupon there were above twenty thousand massacr'd in cold Blood. The Turks had seiz'd upon the Capuchins Mansion, but Signor Michaël chief of the Canoneers, got it to be restor'd them again.

As to the Civil Government of Bagdat, there is none but a Cady, who does all, acting even the Mufti, with a Shiekelaslon or Tefterdar, who receives the Revenues of the Grand Signor. There are in it five Mosquees, of which two are indifferently well built, and adorn'd with Duomo's cover'd with varnish'd Tiles of different colours. There are also ten Inns, all ill built, except two, which are reasonably convenient. In general, the City is ill built; there being nothing of beauty in it but the Bazars, which are all arch'd; else the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. They must also be water'd three or four times a day; for which office several poor people are hir'd upon the publick charge. The City is full of Trade, but not so full as it was, when in the hands of the King of Persia: for when the Turk took it, he kill'd most of the richest Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither from all Parts; whither for Trade, or for Devotions sake, I cannot tell: because they that follow the Sect of Haly, do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat. Besides, all they that are desirous to go to Mecca by Land, must pass through Bagdat, where every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piasters to the Basha. You must take notice that there are in Bagdat two sorts of Mahometans, the first are call'd Rafedi's, or Here∣ticks; the second, Observers of the Law, in all things like those at Constantinople. The Rafedi's will by no means eat or drink with a Christian, and very hardly with the rest of the Mahometans: or if they do happ'n to drink out of the same Cup, or to touch them, they presently wash themselves, as believing themselves unclean. The others are not so scrupulous, but eat and drink and converse with all the World. In the year 1639, after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat, a Rafedi who was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink, who desir'd it of him in the Market-place, but abus'd him also in words. Thereupon the Jew com∣plain'd to the Cady, who immediately sent for him, and caus'd his Boracho and his Cup to be brought along with him; when he came before him, he ask'd for his Cup, and gave the Jew to drink, and then made the Porter drink also out of the same Cup: After that, he order'd the Rafedi to be Bastinado'd, and this Lesson to be taught him while he was chastising, That we are all God's Creatures, as well Maho∣metans, as Christians and Jews. This has made them less zealous in their Superstition, though they are the chiefest part of the Inhabitants of the City.

As to their Funerals, I have particularly observ'd, that when the Husband dyes, the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear, and lets her Hair fall about her Ears; then she all besmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle, and having so done, frisks and leaps about after such a ridiculous manner, as from others would rather produce laughter than tears. All the kindred, friends and neighbours meet at the House of the deceas'd, and stay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Wo∣men strive to out-vie one another in a thousand Apish tricks, clapping their Cheoks, yelling like mad people; and then of a sudden setting themselves to dance to the sound of two Drums, like those which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry, upon which the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more ac∣custom'd to this fool'ry than the rest, that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns: to which other Women make answer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at a great distance. It would then be a vain thing to seek to comfort the Children of the deceas'd; for they seem to be so much beside themselves, that they are not in a condition to hear any thing. And they are oblig'd to carry themselves in that manner, unless they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindness for their Parents. When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave, abundunce of poor people go before with Banners, and Crescents at the ends of Sticks, singing most dismal Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Interrment, who are not

to go abroad but only upon Thursdays, when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for the Dead. And because that by their Law the Husband is oblig'd to lye with his lawful Wife upon Thursday-night or Fryday-night, upon Wednesday-morning the Women go to the ••••ths, where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a sweet Water. They may go abroad sometimes at other seasons, when their Husbands give them leave to visit their Kindred; but then they are to be wrapt up from Head to Foot, that it is impossible for their Husbands themselves to know them if they meet 'em i'the Streets. By the way take notice, that the Persian Women, unless they be such as are very poor, would rather stay within all the days of their Lives, than go abroad without a Horse. And it is a certain sign to know a Curtisan from an honest Woman; for that the Curtisans put their Feet in the Stirup, and the honest Women only in the Stirup-leathers. The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited, after their fashions; but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their Necks and Wrists, for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces, and will bore holes in their Ears to put in a Ring. The Arabian Women only bore the separation between the two Nostrils, where they wear hollow Rings, as well to spare cost, as for lightness; for some are so big, that you may almost thrust your Fist through them. Beyond all this, the more to beautifie themselves, they make a round Ring about their Eyes with a certain sort of Blacking: And as well Men as Women, in the Desert, put the same near their Eyes, to preserve them, as they say, from the heat of the Sun.

Of Christians there are three sorts: Nestorians, who have a Church; Armenians and Jacobites, who have none, but go to the Capuchins, who administer the Sacra∣ments to them. The Christians go in Devotion to a Chappel, about a short quarter of a League from the City, dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias, paying a small Fee, for admission, to the Turks, who keep the Keys. Two days journey from the City stands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village, where they say, that St. Simon and St. Jude were both Martyr'd and Buried. If a Christian dyes, all the rest come to his Burial, and returning home, find a Supper prepar'd to welcom them; the next day they return to the Grave, and pray for the deceas'd; and the third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers. Sometimes there will be a hundred and fifty persons at a Burial. They repeat the same Ceremonies for the seventh, fifteenth, thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards; having a great veneration for the Dead, for whom they pray too often. This custom of Feasting is very in∣convenient for the Poor; for they being desirous to imitate the Rich, run them∣selves sometimes so far in Debt, that they are forc'd to sell their Children to the Turks to discharge themselves.

There are several Jews also in Bagdat, but more that come every year in Devotion to visit the Sepulcher of the Prophet Ezekiel, which is a day and a halfs journey from the City. In short, since the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amurat, the number of Inhabitants cannot be less than fifteen thousand Souls; which shews that the City is not peopl'd according to its bigness.

About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Mesopotamia, at distance almost equal between Tigris and Euphrates, there appears a vast Heap of Earth, which the people call to this day Nemrod. It stands in the midst of a wide Plain, and may be discover'd a great way off. The vulgar sort believe it to be the Remains of the Tower of Babel; but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion, who call it Agartouf, and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince, who always kept a Beacon at the top to assemble his Subjects together in time of War. This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit; but it is not easie to guess at the ancient height, the rest being fal'n to ruine, but only eighteen or twenty Fathom. It is built of Brick dry'd in the Sun, every Brick being ten Inches square, and three thick. The Building is thus rais'd. Upon every row of Canes or Reeds bruis'd to pieces and mix'd with Wheat-straw, and spred an Inch and a half thick, lye seven orders of these Bricks with a little Straw between each; then another Bed of Reeds, and six rows of Bricks; then a third with five rows, decreasing in that manner 'till you come to the top. The form of it seems to have been rather square than round; and in the highest part of that which remains there appears a Hole like a Window; if it were not rather an Out-let for Water, or a Hole for the Scaffolding. In short, according to the Description of Moses there

is no likelihood that this should be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Ba∣bel.

The Plane of the City of Bagdat, which is to be compass'd, as well by Land as by Water, in two Hours.

• A. The Ground-Plot.
• B. The Fortress.
• C. The Gate call'd Maazan-capl.
• D. The New Bulwark.
• E. The Port where the Grand Signor erected his first Batt'ry, Anno 1638.
• F. The Old Bulwark.
• G. The Gate in the Wall.
• H. The Old Bulwark.
• I. The Place where Amurat rais'd his second Batt'ry, when he made the Breach, and took the City.
• K. The Gate in the Wall.
• L. The Old Bulwark.
• M. The Old Bulwark.
• N. Cara capi, or the Black Gate.
• O. The Old Bulwark.
• P. Sou-capi, or the Water-Gate.

CHAP. VIII. A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat to Balsara; and of the Religion of the Christians of St. John.

THE fifteenth of March we hir'd a Bark from Bagdat to Balsara. And we observ'd, that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides it self into two Arms; the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea, the other keeps its course toward the Point of Mesopotamia; these two Arms making a large Iland, cross'd by several small Channels.

When we came to the place where Tigris divides it self, we beheld as it were the compass of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit. There are some of the Walls yet standing, upon which six Coaches may go a-brest. They are made of burnt Brick, every Brick being ten Foot square, and three thick. The Chronicles of the Country say, that these were the Ruines of the ancient Ba∣bylon.

We follow'd that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coast of Chaldea; for fear of falling into the hands of the Arabs, who were then at War with the Basha of Babylon, denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signor. We were ten days upon the Water in our passage from Bagdat to Balsara, and lay every night upon the Water, dressing our Victuals in the Bark. For when we came to any Villages, we sent our Servants a-shoar to buy Provisions, which we had very cheap. Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were these. Amurat, where there stood a Fort of Brick bak'd in the Sun; Mansoury, a great Town; Magar, Gazer, and Gorno. At this last place Euphrates and Tigris meet together: where are also three Castles to be seen; one upon the Point where the two Rivers meet, which is the strongest, and where the Son of the Prince of Balsara then commanded; the second upon Chaldea side; and the third upon Arabia side. Though the Customs be there exactly demanded, and paid, yet they never search any person. The Tides come up to that place: so that having but fifteen Leagues to Balsara, we got thither in sev'n hours, having both Wind and Tide.

All the Country between Bagdat and Balsara is inter-cut and parted by Dikes, like the Low Countries; the two Cities lying a hundred and sixty Leagues one from

the other. It is one of the best countries in the possession of the Grand Signor, being stor'd with large Meadows and excellent Pasturage, where are bred infinite numbers of Beasts, especially Mares and Bufalo's. The Female Bufalo's go twelve Months, and yield so much milk, that there are some which will give two and twenty Pints. And there is so large a quantity of Butter made, that in some Vil∣lages upon the Tigris, we saw sometimes five and twenty, sometimes twenty Barks lad'n with Butter, which the people sell all along the Gulf of Persia, as well upon Arabia, as Persia side.

Half the way between Bagdat and Balsara, we perceiv'd several Pavilions set up in the Meadows along by the side of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that the Tefterdar was come from Constantinople to gather the Grand Signor's duty's. For from Bagdat to Gorno, for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female, there is to be paid a Piaster and a quarter for every head once a year; which is worth yearly to the Grand Signor a hundred and fourscore thousand Piasters. Every Mare also pays two Piasters, every Sheep ten Sous; which if the Country people were not very cunning, would be worth fifty thousand Piasters more than it is.

After this we came to Gorno, a Fortress upon the point where the two Rivers meet, besides two other small Castles upon each side, so that there is no passing without leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnish'd with Cannon, we saw the Prince of Balsara's Son, who was Governour of the Fort. And here it is that the Account of the Customs is taken. But though they are very exact in searching the Barks, they are very civil, for they search no body. However lest any Goods should be hid between the Planks of the Ships, over which they generally throw Fa∣gots and Canes, the Customers bring a great Piercer, with which they bore the sides of the Bark quite through for the discovery of conceal'd Goods. The Goods are Register'd at Gorno, but the Customs are always paid at Balsara, according to the accompt giv'n from the Fort.

The same day entring into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balsara, we met the chief of the Holland Factory taking his pleasure in a Boat cover'd with Scarlet, who took me with him to Balsara.

Balsara stands upon the side of Arabia deserta, two Leagues from the Ruines of a City, which was formerly call'd Teredon, and anciently stood in the Desert, to which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel still to be seen.

By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City, from whence the Arabians fetch away the Bricks and sell them at Balsara. The City of Balsara is half a League from Euphrates, which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-areb, or the River of Araebia. The Inhabitants of the City have made a Channel to it about half a League long, which bears Vessels of 150 Tun; at the end where∣of stands a Fort, so that no Vessel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is above fifteen Leagues off, but the Tide comes up to the Channel, and fills the River other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is so low, that were it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-shoar, it would often be in danger of being drown'd. The Dam is above a League in length, and built all of Free-stone so strong, that the fury of the waves can do them no injury, though it lie open to a Boystrous Sea.

It is not above a hundred years since Balsara belong'd to the Arabians of the Desert, and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe. For those people were contented to eat their own Dates, having so great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 'Tis the same thing all along the Gulf on each side; for from Balsara to the River Indus for above six hundred Leagues together, and all along the Coast of Arabia to Mascaté, the poor sort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon Dates and Salt-fish dry'd in the wind. The Cows eat no Grass, and though they go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the bushes which is proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the Field, and when they return home, they give them heads of fish and Date-nuts boil'd together.

The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balsara; and yet because the Arabians always hover'd about the Town, and made booty of all they could lay their hands on, they were forc'd to come to an agreement with them, that the Arabs should quietly enjoy all the Desert 'till within a League of the City; and that the

Turks should remain peaceable Masters of the City, where they have a Basha for Governour. But this Treaty endur'd not long; for in the middle of the City there is a Cittadel, call'd Aushel Basha, or the Basha's Court, which the Turks built; so that the Garrison being Turks and the Inhabitants Arabians, who could not endure to be curb'd, they oft-times quarrell'd with the Turks and came to blows. There∣upon the Arabians of the Desert came to the relief of the Citizens and besieg'd the Basha in the Fortress. At length because there could be no such agreement made, but that one party or other took an occasion presently to break it, there was one Basha whose name was Aiud, who after many contests and revolts which had almost tyr'd him, resolv'd to rid himself of the trouble, and sold his Government for forty thousand Piasters to a rich Lord in the Country, who presently rais'd a sufficient number of Souldiers to keep the people in awe. This great man took upon him the name of Efrasias Basha, being the Grandfather of Hussen Basha, who was Gover∣nour at the time when I pass'd through before. This Efrasias threw off the Turkish voak, and took upon him the title of Prince of Balsara. As for the Basha that sold his Government, he no sooner arriv'd at Constantinople, but he was strangl'd. But after Amurath had taken Bagdat, the Prince of Balsara was glad to feed him conti∣nually with Presents that chiefly consisted in Horses, which are very beautiful in that Country. The Great Sha-Abas having taken Ormus, sent a powerful Army under the Command of Iman-Kouli-Kan Governour of Shiras, to take in Balsara. Whereupon the Prince finding himself too weak to resist so great a Pow'r, made an agreement with the Desert Arabians to break down the Dam that stops the Sea. Which being per∣form'd, in came the Sea tumbling fifteen Leagues to Balsara, and four Leagues be∣yond it, which constrain'd the Persians, surrounded with water, and hearing at the same time of the death of Sha-Abas, to raise their Siege. Since that inundation, several Lands and Gardens have been utterly barren, or have born very little, by reason of the Salt which the Sea has left behind.

The Prince of Balsara has enter'd into Leagues with several strange Nations, so that whencesoever you come, you may be welcom. There is so much liberty and so good order in the City, that you may walk all night long in the Streets without mo∣lestation. The Hollanders bring Spices thither every year. The English carry Pepper and some few Cloves; but the Portugals have no Trade at all thither. The Indians bring Calicuts, Indigo, and all sorts of Merchandize. In short, there are Mer∣chants of all Country's, from Constantinople, Smyrna, Aleppo, Damascus, Cairo, and other parts of Turkie, to buy such Merchandizes as come from the Indies, with which they lade the young Camels which they buy in that place; for thither the Arabians bring them to put them to sale. They that come from Diarbequir, Mou∣ssul, Bagdat, Mesopotamia, and Assyria, send their Merchandizes up the Tigris by Water, but with great trouble and expence. In regard the Boats are to be tow'd by men, that cannot go above two Leagues and a half in a day, and against the Wind they cannot stir, which makes them oft-times between Balsara and Bagdat to be above sixty days, nay there have been some that have been three months upon the Water.

The Customs of Balsara amount to five in the hundred, but generally you have some favour shew'd you, either by the Customer or the Prince himself, that the Merchant does not really pay above four in the hundred. The Prince of Balsara is so good a Husband, that he lays up three millions of Liuers in a year. His chiefest Revenue is in four things, Money, Horses, Camels, and Date-trees; but in the last consists his chiefest wealth. For all the Country from the meeting of the two Rivers to the Sea, for the space of thirty Leagues together, is all cover'd with these Trees; nor does any one dare to touch a Date, 'till he has paid for every Tree three fourths of a Larin, or nine Sous French. The profit which the Prince makes upon money, proceeds from this, that the Merchants that come from abroad are oblig'd to carry their Reals to his Mint, where they are Coyn'd and converted into Larins, which is worth to him eight in the hundred. As for his Horses, there is no place in the world, where there are more fit for travel, or handsomer shap'd; for there are some that will travel thirty hours together and never draw bit, especially the Mares. But to return to the Palm-trees it is worth observation, that there is more Art to bring up those Trees than any other. The Natives dig a hole in the ground, wherein they heap a great quantity of Date-nuts in a Pyramidical form, the top

whereof ends in one single Nut, which being cover'd with Earth produces the Palm-tree. Most of the people of the Country do say, that in regard there is among the Palm-trees the distinction of Male and Female, that therefore they must be planted one by another, for that otherwise the Female Tree will bear no Fruit. But others affirm that nicety to be unnecessary; and that it susfices, when the Male is in Blossom to take a Flower from the Male, and put it into the Heart of the Female a little above the Stem; for unless they should do so, all the Fruit would fall off before it came to maturity.

There is at Balsara a Cady that administers Justice, and who is establish'd by the authority of the Prince that commands there. In the City are also three sorts of Christians, Jacobites, Nestorians, and Christians of St. John. There is also a House of Italian Carmelites; and there was a House of Portugal Austin-Friars, but they have forsak'n the Town ever since their Country-men quitted the Trade.

The Christians of St. John are very numerous at Balsara, and the Villages there∣abouts; who anciently liv'd by the River of Jordan, where St. John Baptiz'd; and from whom they took their Name. But since the time that Mahomet conquer'd Palestine, though Mahomet formerly gave them his Hand and his Letters of Pri∣viledge that they should not be molested, nevertheless they that succeeded the false Prophet resolv'd to extirpate them all; to which purpose they ruin'd their Churches, burnt their Books, and exercis'd all manner of cruelties upon their Per∣sons: which oblig'd them to retire into Mesopotamia and Chaldea, and for some time they were under the Patriarch of Babylon, from whom they separated about a hundred and sixty years ago. Then they remov'd into Persia and Arabia, and the Towns round about Balsara; as Souter, Despoul, Rumez, Bitoum, Mono, Endecan, Calufabat, Aveza, Dega, Dorech, Masquel, Gumar, Carianous, Balsara, Onezer, Zech, Loza. Nor do they inhabit City or Village by which there does not run a River. And many of their Bishops have assur'd me, that the Christians in all the foregoing places make above five and twenty thousand Families. There are some among them who are Merchants; but the most part of them are Trades-men, especially Gold∣smiths, Joyners, and Lock-smiths.

Their Creed is full of fables and foul errours. The Persians and Arabians call them Sabbi, a People that have forsak'n their own Religion, to take up a new one. In their own Language they call themselves Mendai Jahia, or Disciples of St. John, from whom, as they ascertain us, they have receiv'd their Faith, their Books, and their Traditions. Every year they celebrate a Feast for about five days, during which time they go in Troops to their Bishops, who Baptize them according to the Baptism of St. John.

They never Baptize but in Rivers, and only upon Sundays. But before they go to the River they carry the Infant to Church, where there is a Bishop who reads certain Prayers over the Head of the Child; from thence they carry the Child to the River, with a Train of Men and Women, who together with the Bishop go up to the knees in Water. Then the Bishop reads again certain Prayers out of a Book which he holds in his Hand, which done he sprinkles the Infant three times, saying, Beesmebrad er-Rabi, Kaddemin, Akreri, Menhal el gennet Alli Koulli Kralek; or, In the Name of the Lord, first and last of the World and of Paradise, the high Creator of all things. After that, the Bishop reads something again in his Book, while the God-father plunges the Child all over in the Water; after which they go all to the Parents House to feast. If any tax their Baptism for insufficient, in regard the Three Persons of the Divinity are not nam'd therein, they can make no rational defence for them∣selves. Nor have they any knowledge of the Mystery of the Holy Trinity, only they say that Christ is the Spirit and Word of the Eternal Father. They are so blind as to believe the Angel Gabriel to be the Son of God, begotten upon Light; yet will not believe the Eternal Generation of Christ, as God. Yet they confess he became Man, to free us from the Punishment of Sin: and that he was conceiv'd in the womb of a Virgin without the knowledge of Man, by means of the Water of a certain Fountain which she drank of. They believe he was crucifi'd by the Jews; that he rose the third day; and that his Soul ascending up to Heaven, his Body remain'd on Earth. But like the Mahometans they corrupt their Faith, by saying, that Christ vanish'd when the Jews came to take him, and that he deluded their cruelty with his Shadow.

In the Eucharist they make use of Meal or Flow'r, kneaded up with Wine and Oyl: For, say they, the Body of Christ being compos'd of the two principal parts; Flesh and Blood, the Flowr and the Wine do most perfectly represent them; besides, that Christ at his Supper made use of Wine only, and not of Water. They add Oyl, to signifie the benefit we receive by his favour of the Sacrament, and to put us in mind of our Love and Charity towards God and our Neighbour. To make this Wine, they take Grapes dry'd in the Sun, which they call in their Lan∣guage Zebibes, and casting Water upon them, let them steep for so long a time. The same Wine they use for the Consecration of the Cup. They make use of Raisins, in regard they are more easie to be had than Wine; the Persians, espe∣cially the Arabians, under whose Government they live, not permitting, nor indeed allowing them the use of it. Of all people that follow the Law of Mahomet, there are none so opposite to other Religions, as these Persians and Arabians about Balsara. The words of their Consecration, are no other than certain long Prayers, which they make to praise and thank God, at the same time blessing the Bread and Wine, never making mention of his Body and Blood; which they say is not at all necessary, because God knows their intentions. After all the Ceremonies are ended, the Priest takes the Bread, and having eaten some of it, distributes the rest to the People.

As to their Bishops and Priests, when any one dyes, who has a Son, they choose him in his place; and if he have no Son, they take the next a-kin that is most capable and best instructed in their Religion. They that make the Election, say several Prayers over him that is elected. If he be a Bishop, after he is receiv'd, and that he go about to Ordain others, he ought to fast six days, during which time he continually repeats certain Prayers over him that is to be ordain'd Priest, who also for his part fasts and prays all the said time. And whereas I say the Father succeeds the Son, it is to be observ'd, that among the Christians in those Parts, both Bishops and Priests marry, as do the rest of the people; only if their first Wife dye, they cannot marry another unless she be a Virgin. Moreover, they that are admitted to Ecclesiastical Functions, must be of the race of Bishops or Priests; and their Mothers must have been always Virgins when they were marry'd. All their Bishops and Priests wear their Hair long, and a little Cross wrought with a Needle.

When there is any Wedding to be, the kindred and persons invited go toge∣ther with the Bridegroom, to the House where the Bride lives. Thither comes the Bishop also, and approaching the Bride, who is sitting under a Canopy; he asks her if she be a Virgin. If she answer that she is so, he makes her confirm it by an Oath. After which he returns to the Guests, and sends his Wife with some other skilful Women to make an inspection. If they find her to be a Virgin, the Bishop's Wife returns and makes Oath of it; and then they all go to the River, where the Bishop re-baptizes the Couple to be marry'd. Then they return toward the House, and making a stop before they come quite near it, the Bridegroom takes the Bride by the Hand, and leads her seven times from the Company to the House, the Bishop following them every time, and reading certain Prayers. After that they go into the House, and the Bride and Bridegroom place themselves under the Canopy, where they set their Shoulders one against another, and the Bishop reads again, causing them to lay their Heads together three times. Then op'ning a Book of Divination, and looking for the most fortunate day to consummate the Marriage, he tells them of it. But if the Bishop's Wife do not find the Bride to be a Virgin, the Bishop can proceed no farther, so that if the young Man have still a mind, he must go to some meaner Priest to perform the Ceremony. Which is the reason that the people take it for a great dishonour to be marry'd by any other than the Bishops; for when a Priest marries, 'tis an infallible sign that the Bride was no Virgin. The Priests also, in regard they take it to be a great Sin for a Woman to marry not being a Virgin, they never marry any such but by constraint, and to avoid ensuing inconveniencies; for sometimes in despite they will turn Mahometans. The reason of the Inspection is, that the Husbands may not be deceiv'd, and to keep the young Girls in awe.

As to what they believe touching the Creation of the World, they say, that the Angel Gabriel undertrking to create the World according to the command which

God gave him, took along with him three hundred thirty-six thousand Demons, and made the earth so fertile, that it was but to Sow in the Morning and Reap at Night. That the same Angel taught Adam to Plant and Sow, and all other necessary Sciences. Moreover that the same Angel made the seven lower Spheres, the least whereof reaches to the Center of the World, in the same manner as the Heavens do, all contriv'd one within another. That all these Spheres are of different Metals, the first next the Center is of Iron, the second of Lead, the third of Brass, the fourth of Laten, the fifth of Silver, the sixth of Gold, and the seventh of Earth. The seventh is that which contains all the rest, and is the chiefest of all, as being the most fruitful and profitable to Man, and the most proper to preserve Man∣kind, whereas the rest seem rather to be fram'd for its destruction. They believe that over every Heaven there is Water, whence they conclude that the Sun swims in a Ship upon that Water, and that the Mast of his Ship is a Cross, and that there are a great number of Boys and Servants to guide the Ships of the Sun and Moon. Besides, they have the Picture of a Barque, which they say belong'd to the Angel Becan, whom God sends to visit the Sun and Moon, to see whither they move right or no, and keep close to their duty.

In reference to the other World and life to come, they believe there is no other World, but where Angels and Devils, the Souls of good and bad reside. That in that World there are Cities, Houses, and Churches, and that the Evil Spirits have also Churches, where they pray, singing and rejoycing upon Instruments, and Feasting as in this World. That when any one lies at the point of death, three hundred and sixty Demons come and carry his Soul to a place full of Serpents, Dogs, Lyons, Tygres, and Devils; who, if it be the Soul of a wicked man, tear it in pieces; but being the Soul of a just man, it creeps under the bellies of those Crea∣tures into the presence of God, who sits in his seat of Majesty to judge the World. That there are Angels also that weigh the Souls of Men in a Ballance, who being thought worthy, are admitted immediately into Glory. That the Angels and Devils are Male and Female, and beget Children. That the Angel Gabriel is the Son of God engender'd upon Light, and that he has a Daughter call'd Souret who has two Sons. That the Angel Gabriel has several Legions of Demons under him, who are instead of Souldiers, and others that are his Officers of justice, whom he sends from Town to Town, and from City to City, to punish the wicked.

In reference to Saints, they hold that Christ left twelve Apostles to Preach to the Nations. That the Virgin Mary is not dead, but that she lives somewhere in the World, though there be no person that can tell where she is. That next to her St. John is the chiefest Saint in Heaven, and next to them Zacharias and Elizabeth, of whom they recompt several miracles and Apocryphal tales. For they believe that they two begat St. John only by embracing; that when he came to be of age they Marry'd him, and that he had four Sons which he begat upon the waters of Jordan. That when St. John desir'd a Son, he pray'd to God, who drew him one out of the water; so that St. John had no more to do with his Wife but only to give her the Child to bring up. That he dy'd a natural death, but that he commanded his Disciples to Crucifie him after his death, that he might be like Christ. Lastly, that he dy'd in the City of Fuster, and that he was bury'd in a Chrystal Tomb, brought by miracle to the City, and that this Sepulchre was in a certain House near the River Jordan.

They highly honour the Cross, and sign themselves with it; but they are very careful of letting the Turks observe them; and during their Ceremonies, they set a Watch at their Church doors for fear the Turks should enter, and lay some unjust Fine upon them. When they have ador'd the Cross, they take it in two pieces, which they never put together again, 'till their Service rebegins. The reason why they so adore the Cross is drawn out of a Book which they have, Entitul'd The Di∣van. Where it is written that every day early in the Morning, the Angels take the Cross and put it in the middle of the Sun, which receives his light from it, as the Moon also doth hers. They add, that in the same Book are Pictur'd two Ships, one of which is nam'd the Sun, the other the Moon; and tha•• in every one of these Ships there is a Cross full of Bells: And moreover, that if there were not a Cross in those two Ships, the Sun and Moon would be depriv'd of Light, and the Ships would suffer Shipwrack.

Their chief Festivals are three. The one in Winter, that lasts three days, in memory of our first Parent and the Creation of the World. The other in the Month of August, that also lasts three days, which is call'd the Feast of St. John. The third which lasts five days in June, during which time they are all re-baptiz'd. They observe Sunday, doing no work upon that day. They neither Fast nor do any penance. They have no Canonical Books, but a great number of others that treat of nothing but Witchcraft, in which they believe their Priests to be very crafty, and that the Devils are at their beck. They hold all Women to be unclean, and that it is not at all available for them to come to the Church.

They have one Ceremony, which they call the Ceremony of the Hen, of which they make great Accompt, which is not lawful for any to perform but a Priest Born of a Virgin at the time of her Marriage. When a hen is to be kill'd, the Priest puts off his ordinary habit, and puts on a Linnen Cloth, girding his waste with a second, and throwing a third about his shoulders like a Stole. Then he takes the Fowl, and plunges it in the water to make it clean; after which he turns toward the East and cuts off the head, holding the Body in his hand 'till it has bled out all the blood. While the Hen bleeds, with his Eyes lifted up to Heaven, as if he were in an extasie, he repeats in his own Language these words following: In the name of God, may this flesh be profitable to all that eat of it? They observe the same ceremony when they kill Sheep. For first, they cleanse the place very carefully where the Sheep is to be kill'd, washing it with water, and strewing it with boughs, nor is the number of people small that assists at this Ceremony, as if it were at some solemn Sacrifice. If you ask them why it is not lawful for the Laity to kill Fowls? They answer that it is no more lawful for them to kill than to consecrate them; and that is all the reason which they bring. They eat of nothing drest by the Turks; and if a Turk ask them for drink, so soon as he has drank, they break the Cup. And to make the Turks more hateful, they Picture Mahomet like a great Gyant, shut up in Prison in Hell with four more of his Parents; and they say, that all the Turks are carry'd into the same place full of wild Beasts to be there devour'd.

They pretend all to Salvation. For say they, after the Angel Gabriel had fram'd the World by the command of God, he thus discours'd him. Lord God, said he, behold I have built the World as thou didst command me. It has put me to a great deal of trouble, and my Brethren also, to raise such high Mountains that seem to sustain Heaven. And who indeed was able to make way for Rivers through Mountains without vast labour, and to give every thing its proper place? Moreover, great God, by the aid of thy powerfull Arm, we have brought the World to so much perfection, that men cannot think upon any thing needful for them, which is not to be found therein. But instead of that satis∣faction which I ought to have for having accomplish'd so great a work, I find no reason but to be altogether griev'd. When God demanding the cause, the Angel Gabriel answer'd: My God and Father, I will tell you what afflicts me; because that after the making of the World as I have done, I foresee that there will come into it a prodigious number of Jews, Turks, Idolaters, and other Infidels, Enemies of your Name, who will be un∣worthy to eat and enjoy the Fruits of our Labours. To whom God thus reply'd: Never grieve, my Son, there shall live in this World which thou hast built, certain Christians of St. John who shall be my friends, and shall be all sav'd. Upon which the Angel admiring how that should be! What, said he, will there not be several Sinners among those Christians, and by consequence will not they be your Enemies? To whom God thus concluded: That at the day of Judgment the Good should Pray for the Wicked, and by that means they should be all forgiv'n, and obtain Salvation.

These Christians have a strange Antipathy against the Blew Colour call'd Indigo, which they will not so much as touch. For certain Jews dreaming that their Law should be abolish'd by St. John, told it their Country-men. Which they under∣standing, and seeing that St. John prepar'd to Baptize Christ, in a great rage, fetch'd a vast quantity of Indigo, which they call Nill in their Language, and flung it into Jordan. They add also that those waters continu'd unclean for some time, and had hinder'd the Baptism of Christ, had not God sent his Angels with a large Vessel of water, which he caus'd them to fill out of Jordan before the Jews had defil'd it with Indigo; for which reason God particularly Curs'd that Colour.

CHAP. IX. A Continuation of the Road from Balsara to Ormus.

THe tenth of April we set out from Balsara for Bander-Congo, for which passage we hir'd a Terrade or a Barque for the purpose; for they which are laden with Dates are generally so overcharg'd, that if a Storm rises, they are in danger of being overset. The River of Balsara is very dan∣gerous, by reason of the Sands which also lie up and down the Persian Gulf, and are very prejudicial to Navigation in that place. On both sides the Gulf that sepa∣rates Persia from Arabia the Happy, live a sort of poor people that follow no other Trade than fishing; so poor, that when they bring fish to your Vessel, they require nothing for it but Rice; and not the best neither, but such course stuff as we feed our Hens and Pigs withall. I gave them a Sack of thirty or forty pounds, and bid them make merry with it, but they told me, they must be careful how they spent such Rice as that, unless it were for their Sick, or at their Weddings; so that if the rest of Arabia the Happy be like that, assuredly 'tis rather a most unfortunate Country.

There are several Isles in the Persian Gulf, but the chiefest of all is the Isle of Baharen, where they fish for Pearls, of which I have spoken in its proper place.

Near to the place where Euphrates falls from Balsarae into the Sea, there is a little Island, where the Barques generally come to an Anchor, in expectation of the wind. There we stay'd four days, whence to Bandar-Congo it is fourteen days Sail, and we got thither the twenty-third of April. This place would be a far better habitation for the Merchants than Ormus, where it is very unwholesom and dangerous to live. But that which hinders the Trade from Bandar-Congo, is because the Road to Lar is so bad, by reason of the want of Water, and craggy narrow ways, which only Camels can endure; but from Ormus to Lar the way is tollerable. We stay'd at Bandar-Congo two days, where there is a Portugais Factor, who receives one half of the Customs by agreement with the King of Persia. By the way take notice, that they who will go by Water from Ormus to Balsara, must take the Natives for their Pilots, and be continually sounding besides.

The thirtieth, we hir'd a Vessel for Bander-Abassi, and after three or four hours Sailing, we put into a Village upon the Sea-side, in the Island of Keck∣mishe.

Keckmishe is an Island three Leagues about, and about five or six from Ormus. It exceeds in Fertility all the Islands of the East, that produce neither Wheat nor Bar∣ley; but at Keckmishe is a Magazine of both, without which Ormus would hardly subsist, in regard it furnishes that City with most of their Provision for their Horses. There is in the Island a Spring of good Water, for the preservation of which, the Persians have built a Fort, least the Portugals when they held Ormus, should get it into their Possession.

In 1641. aud 1642. the Hollanders falling out with the King of Persia about their Silk Trade, besieg'd this Island. For the Ambassadors of the Duke of Holstein com∣ing into Persia, the Dutch were jealous that they came to fetch away all the Silk; and thereupon enhanc'd the Market from forty-two to fifty Tomans. When the Ambassadors were gone, the Dutch would pay no more than forty-four, which was two Tomans more than they were us'd to do. The King netl'd that they would not stand to their words, forbid that they should make sale of their Goods 'till they had paid their Customs, from which 'till that time they were exempted. Thereupon the Hollanders besieg'd the Fortress of Keckmishe, but the Heats were so intollera∣ble, that they were forc'd to quit their design with great loss of their Men; and at length by great Presents to the chief Courtiers, they obtain'd to pay no more than forty-six Tomans.

Larec is an Island nearer to Ormus than Keckmishe, well inhabited, and so stor'd with Stags and Hinds, that in one day we kill'd five and forty.

From Keckmishe we Sail'd for Ormus, where we arriv'd the first of May. I had

put my choicest Goods in a Chest directed for the Hollaad Commander at Ormus, by which means I got the Custom free.

The Persian Gulf is the most dangerous Gulf I know, by reason of the shallow∣ness and sharp Promontories that point out into the Sea; and therefore the best way is to take a Pilot at Ormus or Bander-Congo, and the most proper Pilots are the Fisher∣men, who are only skill'd in that Sea and no farther. The Soyl about the Persian Gulf is dry Sand and without Water, so that it is impossible to Travel by Land from Ormus to Balsara. The Merchants would be glad to find a way through the Coast of Arabia to get to Mascaté, whence there might a cut be made to Sindi, Diu, or Surat, which are the three chief Ports of India. During the difference between the King of Persia and the Hollanders, the Emir of Vodana an Arabian Prince; offer'd to shew them an easie Road from Mascaté to Balsara. But the Hollanders fearing to break with the King of Persia, where they vended above fifteen or sixteen hundred thousand pounds of their Pepper, and paid therewith for all their Silk, did not think it worth their while to quit Ormus to settle themselves at Mas∣caté.

Had it been yielded to, the way had been from Balsara to Elcatif a Sea-Town in Arabia the Happy, where there is a Fishery for Pearls that belongs to the Emir of Elcatif. From Elcatif to Mascalat, another City of Arabia, and the residence of another Emir. From Mascalat to Vodana, a good handsom City seated upon the meeting of two little Rivers that carry Barques to the Sea, and run together by the single name of Moyesur. The Soyl about Vodana produces no Corn, and very little Rice; but it abounds in Fruits, especially Prunes and Quinces, which are not so sour as ours, and are eaten by the Natives as Pears. There are extraordinary good Melons and great Store of Grapes, of which the Jews, who inhabit the best part of the City, are permitted to make Wine. From Vodana to the Gulf, the County of each side is full of Palm-Trees, the Dates being the Food of the common people, who have not Money to buy either Corn or Rice. From Vodana to Mascatè it is but fifteen Leagues, though by the Maps, which are Erroneous, the way is describ'd to be much longer.

Being at Ormus, the Emir of Vodana shew'd me a Pearl transparent and perfectly round, that weigh'd seventeen Abas, or fourteen Carats and seven Eights; for in all the Pearl Fisheries of the East they use no other weights but Abas, which make seven Eights of a Carat. I offer'd him 300000 Piasters, or 60000 Roupies for the same Pearl, but the Emir refus'd to take it, telling me that he had been offer'd more Money for it by several Princes of Asia, who had sent to him to buy it, but that he was resolv'd never to part with it.

CHAP. X. Of the Authors first Voyage, and the adventures of four French-men.

I Departed out of Paris in the year 1657, and Embark'd at Marseilles for Ligorn.

We set Sail from Ligorn seven Vessels together, two bound for Venice, one for Constantinople, one for Aleppo, and three for Smyrna, in one of which be∣ing a Dutch Vessel I Embark'd. But before I leave Smyrna, to begin my Journey from Tauris, give me leave to relate the story of four French-men, the various acci∣dents whereof will much enlight'n the Reader into the Customs and Manners, as well of the Turks as Persians.

While I stay'd the departure of the Caravan, which could not be ready in five or six Weeks, as also upon the advice of a rich Jew and a Merchant of Jewels at Constan∣tinople, who had several Pearls to sell, as well for their beauty as their bigness, the best Commodity a man can carry to the Indies, I sent to Constantinople a person that I

carry'd along with me, one that was well vers'd in that sort of Commodity. There was a Norman Gentleman nam'd de Reville then at Smyrna, who would needs accom∣pany my Factor, so that they went both together in a Vessel that carry'd the French Ambassador and his Lady to Constantinople. This Gentleman had two or three thou∣sand Ducats in his Purse, wanting neither wit nor courage, besides a good presence; but perhaps he was more hasty in his proceedings than the reserv'dness of that Coun∣try requir'd. He had left the Service of the Muscovites, thinking to find an employ∣ment in the Service of the Venetians at Candy; but failing in his expectations, he re∣solv'd to travel into Persia. While he was at Constantinople, the Jews, who lay hold upon all opportunities of gain, soon found out my Factor; and besides the Pearls which he desir'd to see, they shew'd him several other rich Stones to try whether they could draw him in; for he had refus'd the Pearls because they held them at too high a Rate. The Norman Gentleman fell into their acquaintance; and picking out the richest, told him, that being resolv'd for the Indies, he had a mind to lay out four thousand Ducats in Pearls. He added also, that he would pay him half in Money, half in Goods, and at the same time shew'd the Jew two thousand Ducats, which the Jew had already devour'd with his eyes. Some four days after, the Jew brought the Gentleman four fair Pearles with some Emraulds; and you may be sure they easily agreed upon the price, in regard the Gentleman had a design to put a trick upon the Jew. Thereupon he shews his Ducats a second time, which the Jew, who thought he had a Cully, presently told out as his own. After that the Jew desiring to see the Goods, which made up the other part of the payment, the Gen∣tleman without any more ado told him, that all the Merchandize which he had to pay him, was a good strong Quartan Ague which had held him a long time, and indeed such a one, that he could not possibly meet with a better, but that he would not over-rate it, in regard he ask'd but two thousand Ducats for it. The Jew who was rich and in great credit at Court, was so incens'd at his raillery, that he had like to have made a wicked stir about it. For as he had heard him say, that the Gentleman was going into the Indies and Persia, he might have easily caus'd him to have been apprehended for a Spy. But in regard the Jews can do nothing in point of Trade without the assistance of the French Merchants, he adviz'd with some of them, who perswaded him that it was an Act of folly, which it better became him to excuse, and desir'd him to take his Goods again, and put up the business; which with much ado they perswaded him to condescend to. The Gentleman fearing least the Jews underhand should do him a private mischief, stole away with what speed he could, and return'd to Smyrna.

De Reville being thus return'd to Smyrna, put himself into an Almadier, which is a small Vessel of War, that generally touches at Chio and Rhodes, being bound for Cyprus, from whence there is always some convenience or other to get to Alexan∣dretta. From thence he went to Aleppo; and while he stay'd there he met with two French men, the one whose name was Neret, the other Hautin, who was an Ac∣comptant. They had four wooden Chests full of false Stones ready set, by which they flatter'd themselves to be great gainers in Persia. They went from Marseilles to Seyde, from Seyde to Damas, hearing that there was an opportunity to Travel to Bagdat with the Topigi-Bashi. This Topigi-Bashi or chief of the Engineers, was he that assisted Amurath in the taking of Bagdat; in recompence whereof the Grand Signor gave him a Timar, or Lordship in Damas worth four thousand Crowns a year. Now it was his custom every year to visit Bagdat, and to stay there during the Season, that there was any probability of the King of Persia's besieging it; which Season not lasting above three or four Months, when that was over, he return'd to Damas. He usually had about thirty Horse with him, with which he never made it above eighteen or twenty days, taking the shortest cut directly through the Desert, where the Arabs are commanded to bring him Victuals upon the Road. And he is willing at any time when he has this opportunity, to conduct the Franks that desire it that way, in regard they are never ungrateful to him for it. These two Franks therefore having desir'd that they might be taken into his Company, the Topigi-Bashi readily consented, provided they could stay 'till he went, which would not be 'till two or three Months; with which answer they were well satisfi'd. But the two Franks had not stay'd at Damas above seven or eight days but they fell acquainted with a Spahi, a Renegado of Marseilles, who proffer'd to carry them

through the Road of Mesopotamia, so that they should be at Ispahan before the Topigi-Bashi set out from Damas. Thereupon they privately departed out of Damas without acquainting the Topigi-Bashi, who understanding they were gone after the courtesie he had offer'd them, was so enrag'd at their uncivillity, that he sent two of his Arabian Servants directly through the Wilderness to the Basha of Bagdat, to give him advice of two Franks that were to pass that way; who were most certainly Spies, describing them withall from head to foot.

In the mean while the two Franks being arriv'd at Ourfa, the Spahi, as he had contriv'd his own design at Damas, goes to the Basha of Ourfa, and informs him that he had con∣ducted thither two Franks, who could be no other than Spies. Thereupon the Basha seiz'd upon them and all their Goods, among the rest he laid his paws upon seven hundred Piasters, of which the Spahi no doubt had his share. And this may serve for instruction to Travellers to have a care how and with whom they Travel in Turkie.

While the two French men were in hold at Ourfa by one sort of Treachery, the Norman Gentleman and his Companion arriv'd at Bagdat. But they had no sooner set their feet upon the shore, when the Basha verily believing them to be the persons, of whom the Topigi-Bashi had giv'n him notice, caus'd them to be brought before him, and seiz'd upon their Goods and Letters, of which they had several for the Consul of Aleppo, and other rich Merchants for Persia. The Basha sent for the Capuchins to read those Letters, but not believing them, he sent for a Sicilian Physitian which he had in his Service, and his Treasurer who had been a Slave tak'n in Candy. But neither Physitian, Treasurer, nor Capuchins would in∣terpret any thing in prejudice of the French men; yet all that could not preserve them from being shut up in a Stable full of dung, and from being threaten'd to be Shot out of a Cannon's mouth if they would not confess the truth. Thereupon the Capuchins and the Cadi beg'd him to suspend his Sentence 'till the Arrival of the chief of the Cannoniers, to which he readily consented.

When the Topigi-Bashi came, the Basha commanded the Prisoners to be brought before him. But when the Topigi-Bashi deny'd them to be the persons, the Basha grew into such a rage, that he no less reproach'd the Topigi-Bashi for Treachery, than he had accus'd the others. Which so incens'd the Topigi-Bashi on the other side, that he never left 'till he had obtain'd the release of the two French men; yet not so, but that the Basha would have his due; so that Reville was forc'd to leave some of his Ducats behind which the Jew should have had.

But now to return to Smyrna where I expected the Caravan for some time in order to my Journey into Persia. Every thing being provided, we set forward in the Road for Tauris, which I have at large describ'd, nor was there any thing worthy observation all the way. I will only take notice, that when we departed from Tocat, in re∣gard the heat was so extream, we left the common Road toward the North, and took the way through the Mountains, where there is always a fresh Breeze and store of shady Lanes. In many of which high Mountains we met with Snow, and abun∣dance of excellent Sorrel; and upon the tops of some of those Mountains, we met with several sorts of shells, as it had been upon the Sea shore, which is very extraordinary. From Erzerom we went to Cars; from Cars we came to Erivan, The Kan was not there then, being retir'd during the heat into the Mountains, a days Journey from the City. His Lieutenant telling me that I could not well pass farther without paying my duty to the Kan; I follow'd his advice, and found him in his Tent in a fair Dale, where there was a great quantity of Snow: and where when it began to melt, appear'd several beautiful Flowers, so that Summer and Winter seem'd to lodge both in the same place. The Kan entertain'd both me and all my Company most nobly for ten days. I drove also a small Trade with him. For I durst not shew him the rarities I had, being design'd for the King. For as in India, so in Persia, nei∣ther will the King look upon any thing which his Subjects have seen before, nor will the Subject buy any thing which the King has seen, it being an affront to present any thing to the King which he had formerly view'd, and the Subject buys nothing rare but what he intends to present.

Being past Erivan you may leave your Caravan when you please, by reason of the security of the Roads in Persia. And indeed I intended to have visited the Kan of Gengéa, but finding the Road so full of Rocks and Precipices, where a man was

continually in danger of breaking his Neck, I turn'd my Horses head and met the Caravan at Nacksivan in the Road to Tauris.

From Tauris to Ispahan I met with nothing worthy observation. When I came to the Court I was well receiv'd by the King, and I sold him as many Jewels and other Goods of great value, as came to sixty-two thousand Crowns. But of this more in another place.