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Aleppo.
Honoured Sir.
THese serve to Accompany an Account of my Iourney to Holy Land, for which I might refer you to others, who have given •• most exact Relation of that Pilgrimage, yet according to your desire, I present you with this my Description.
TUesday, May 3. 1669. we set Sail from Scanderoon, with a N.E. Wind on th•• Margaret, Tho. Middleton Commander, be∣ing fourteen English Men, (of the Factory of Aleppo) in Company; but being force•• to return three times, by contrary Winds, by May 10. we arrived at Trippoly, whose Por•• is guarded with six small Castles, near th•• Sea, and one great Castle upon the Land; de∣fended from Tempests on the West wit•• Islands, and on the East with a Cape of Land•• so that none but a North Wind can be preju∣dicial to Ships in this Port: the Ground i•• stony, which forced the Captains to buoy u•• their Cables, the Ships riding in six or seve•• Fathom Water. The Town is about a Mil•• fr••m the Marine, situate upon the shelf of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Hill, and hath one good Castle for its defence•• the Town is ruinate, and there were few t•• be seen, it being the time of making whit•• Sild, and most o•• the People in their Garden••.
May 13. after three days Treatment b•• the Consul (for Engl••sh, French and Dutch 〈◊〉〈◊〉 with extraordinary Civility, about four of th•• Clock in the Afternoon, we set forward fo•• Mount Lebanon, and two hours Riding fro•• Tri••poly, we pitched our Tent at the Villag•• Coffersinue; the Inhabitants are Christians, an••
••ive in Houses made of Reeds, and covered with Bushes; the Rode to this Village is ve∣••y pleasant, through a Forest of Olive Trees; and in the Valleys, are Gardens of Mulber∣••ies, with which they f••ed their Silk-worms, Friday May 14 we departed from Coffersinue, ••bout four in the morning, passing in a good Rode, and through Plains sowed wi•••• Wheat: ••bout six of the Clock, we passed over seve∣••al Mountains resembling Marble, if not real∣••y so, from which we had a fine Prospect of the ••ruitfulness of the Valleys: between these Mountains; upon the ascent of an Hill, we ••ame to a Fountain, where we break fasted; ••t seven we rose from the Fountain, and ha¦••ing passed a very dangerous ragged Moun∣••ain, about nine of the Clock we came to Eden, a small Village, and very pleasantly seat∣••d, being surrounded with Mulberries, Wal∣••uts, and other sorts of Trees; Walnus es∣••ecially we found very common in this Mount: we went to the Bishops House, a most misera∣••le ruinated Cottage, who coming to bid us ••elcom, appeared more like a Dunghill-raker ••han a Bishop. We enquired whence this Vil∣••••ge had its name, the M••ronites who inhabit ••he Mountains say, this was the place where Adam committed the sin of Eating the For∣••idden Fruit; but the Bishop told us, it was
in Heaven, where were three Trees, Adam being forbidden to eat of one of them which was the fig-tree: but having eaten, he fel•• down from Heaven, among those Cedars 〈◊〉〈◊〉 which are some two hours riding from th•• Bishops House, and there he began to till th•• Ground. But the Bishop being very Ignoran•• of these things, we forbare to enquire farther▪ The Bishop have great respect shewed him 〈◊〉〈◊〉 every one Kissing his hand on their knees bare•• headed: in his House he hath a ruinate Church 〈◊〉〈◊〉 with an Altar in it; and a little beyond, is 〈◊〉〈◊〉 little Chappel, near the head of the Rivule•• that feeds his House with Water, where w•• found many men with Frank names, whic•• had continued there from the Year 1611.
Mid-day coming, the Bishop made wha•• Preparation his House would afford for Din∣ner, killing two Kids, and a Goat, and givin•• us the best Wine the Mountain did afford 〈◊〉〈◊〉 being a well relished Red and White Win•• Night coming, after Supper, we kissed 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Hand,; and the next morning being now 〈◊〉〈◊〉 twelve in Company, went to take our leav•••• and made him a Present of Livers, besid•• something to the Servants, as is usual 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Pilgrims that take this Voyage; two of 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Company waiting our return at Trippol•• Saturday May the 15. about five a Clo••••
in the Morning, we rose from thence, and about eight of the Clock we came to the Cedars; all that remain of them, being in a very small compass: We spent some time in cut∣ting sticks, and setting our Names on the great Trees. At this place came to us the Captain of a Village, called Upshara, an hours riding from the Cedars. In our way, as we returned; he invited us to Dinner at his Village, which we accepted of, and after Dinner made him a Present, This man is a Maronite, and takes Caeffar or Toll of the Turks, which pass that way with their Sheep and Oxen; he hath a hundred Souldiers under his Command, who are all Christians. About two a Clock we mounted, and after three hours riding, we came to a mighty deep Descent, winding in and out, which is the way to the Pa∣triark of the Maronites House, called Caunibene ••t is a very good Convent, and lies under the Rock, they have a Bell in the Church as in Eu∣••ope, and go to their Devotions Morning and Evening: After we had kissed the Patriarks Hand, we demanded what was to be seen, ••nd the Druggarman carryed us to see St. Marren's Cross, of whom they recount this Story.
That a Venetian in the time that the Franks had the Country, came with his
Wi••e and one Daughter to live there; and after▪ some years his Wife dying, he was resolved to go into the Convent and live a Religious Life, and would there∣fore have his Daughter to leave him; but his perswasions could not prevail with her; but rather than leave her Father, she would put on mans Apparel, and live a Devoted Life with him also; which at last (though unwillingly) he assented to (she being young and handsom;) there they lived ve∣ry strictly for several years; afterward her Father dyed: And the Lay Brothers and Fathers going out, as usually, to till the Ground; She seldom went with them, the Chief of the Convent keeping her at home (being much taken with such a handsom young man as he thought) whereupon they began to grumble, that St. Marrena did not go with them; so that at last, to satisfy the Fratres, he was sent out to work a∣mong them near the Village Tursa: pre∣sently after one of the young Virgins of that Village proving with Child, she came to the Convent, and laid it to the charge of St. Marrena; who was thereupon pre∣sently Excommunicated, and lived a Reli∣gious Life in the Grot near the Convent for the space of 7 years; and being then
again admitted into the Convent, and still continuing to live a very strict Life, he at length dyed; and the Fathers coming ac∣cording to their Custom, to anoint the Body, found that he was a Woman; where∣upon they began to Cross themselves, and to beg Pardon for excommunicating her; and have built an altar in the Grot, and call it by the Name of St. Marrena, as they have also in several Grots thereabouts, in remembrance of the Religious Relicks of those that dwelt therein; and when they carry any Body to see them, they pre∣sently fall down to prayers.
About a League from the Convent, are two French men that live a Hermits Life, ha∣ving Bread and Wine allowed them by the Patriark: Night coming on, we went to Supper with the Patriark, the B. of Aleppo▪ and two other Bishops, with what the Place afforded; At Supper they brought out a great Glass, which held near two Quarts, with which the Old Man soon made himself merry, it being their custom to drink freely; He tel∣ling us, that that Glass had belonged to the Convent more than one hundred Years, and that the Turks coming once to Ransack the Convent, seeing this Glass, told one of the Fratres, if he could drink off that full of pure Wine, he would save the Convent; which
one of them doing, the Turks went away, ad∣miring what sort of People they were. May 16. We took our leave of the Patriarks, and pre∣sented him with some Livers, as also to the poor Fratres, and others belonging to the Convent, and so took our Journey to Trippo∣ly, having had a review of those Mountains, and the Country adjacent, over-spread with many fair Villages, and fruitful Valleys sown with Corn, and great quantity of Mul∣berry Gardens; it being the general imploy∣ment of the Inhabitants to make Silk.
We Returned to Trippoly to the Consuls House that Night, where after two days re∣pose, and having been extraordinary well Treated, we took our leave of the Consul May 18. about midnight, we set sail for Ioppa, with a good Wind; in the Morning we came in sight of Cape-Blanco, where the Wind proving contrary, we were forced to bear up and down for two days, before we could weather the Cape; the Wind coming good, we weather'd the Cape, and came in sight of Cape-Carmel, which Two Cape•• make the Bay of Aerica, on which there is a Convent of White Friars, and there they shewed us Elisha's Tomb. And three or four hours Sail further, we came in sight of Cesa∣rea, now Ruinate and Inhabited by a Com∣pany of Savage Arabs. May 23. we Arrived
at Ioppa, which hath no Harbour to defend Ships from Storms, but hath very good Ground to Anchor in, about ten Fathom Water: It is a poor Town, and hath one Castle: to defend those Ships that come in close to the Shoar; the chief Trade thereof is Pot-ashes for Soap, Cottons, and Cotton-Yarn, which the Franks bring from thence. May 24, We arrived at Ramah, a pleasant Village; the Trade of the Inhabitants is in Fillado's; the People are poor, and the lively-hood of the Women is to Spin it: We were Treated there at the Convent, till a Messenger was dispatched to the Convent at Ierusalem, for our Admittance to pass thither, because of some extravagant Stories that flew abroad, of the Plague raging in the place from whence we came; our Messenger returned back that night.
May 25. in the morning, we mounted to take our Journey for Ierusalem, and baited at St. Ieroms Church about twelve of the Clock, to Eat what small provisions we had with us: and the heat of the Day being pas∣sed, we proceeded on our Journey; and a∣bout four of the Clock in the afternoon we arrived at Ierusalem, at Ioppa Gate; where we tarried till the Druggerman of the Con∣vent went to the Caddy for Licence for us to enter the City; which having obtaine••,
and delivering up our Swords, and what o∣ther Arms we had, to be carried to the Con∣vent; we entred the City on Foot, and were conducted by the Druggerman to the Latines Convent, with two or three Fathers; we found them at their Devotion, and after∣wards all went into the Father Guardians Chamber, who imbraced, and bid us wel∣come; We were carried to our Lodgings, and the Father Procurator came to us, and passed a Complement on us, bringing two or three bottles of the best Wine, and desiring us to call for what we wanted; this was our first entertainment. But I should have told you that our Druggerman, Mallanis Salley, who conducted us from Ioppa, through the Mountains up to Ierusalem, was formerly a Robber himself, and could therefore the bet∣ter carry us through the Arabs, who molest those Mountains and live all upon Purchase; he was a Greek by Nation and Religion. Now to our further Entertainment at Ierusalem; the next morning Father Tomaso, a Lay-Bro∣ther, mighty Serious, and Religious in their way, came to our Chamber with Milk, Wine and ••ruit, (with a Blessing in his Mouth) the season being very hot: and a∣bout twelve of the Clock we went to Dinner▪ two or three Lay-Brothers attending at the Hall door, with a Bason and Ewer for us to
wash; and then entring the Hall, the Fathers stood all on one side near one another, say∣ing Grace in Latin, and then singing the Lords Prayer altogether; and afterwards bow∣ing towards the Picture of our Saviour at Sup∣per with his Apostles, which is placed over the Guardians Head, adorned with silver Crosses about it, &c. The Guardian hath his Table alone in the middle of the Room and two long Tables stand of each side, one for the Pilgrims, and the other for the Fa∣thers; after they had kiss'd the ground, we all sate down, and had every one his allot∣ment brought in a little dish, never wanting three or four Courses of several sorts of Meat: our Wine, Water, and Fruit, was set ready; the Wine about a Quart, the Water some∣thing less, which was the allowance of two men, and had two Glasses belonging to it: a∣bout the middle of Dinner, the Frater came, & changed our Water, that it might drink the fresher. Dinner being ending, the Father Guar∣dian knocks, and the Fraters rise and kneel with their faces toward the Picture of our Saviour with his Disciples at Supper, and mumbling something to themselves, they kiss the Ground, and then begin to take away; one taking away the Dishes, another the Knives, every one having his appointment; and then give Thanks in the same manne
as before Dinner; then washing at the door, they go into the Church to Prayer, for a quarter of an hour; this they do daily, ri∣sing always early, and in the Night also, to go to Mass.
At this time there were two or three Chri∣stians come from Bethlehem, whose art is to make the Figure of our Saviours Sepulchre, or what Holy Story you please, upon your Arm; they make it of a blew colour, and it is done by the continually pricking of your Arm with two Needles; they began present∣ly to go to work on some of us, and having presented us the Patterns of abundance of Prints, every one took his Fancy.
The next day, May 27. we all agreed to go into the Temple, and about four after∣noon we went: ten or twelve Fathers live there continually, and have their Church there: The door is sealed with the Caddys Seal, and when any man goes in, he pays fourteen Livers; we being entred the Tem∣ple, the Fathers came and saluted us, and conducted us to their Lodgings; where after we had been about an hour, they prepared to go in Procession to all the holy places, pre∣senting us every one a Book of Holy Songs, for every place in Latin.
And so we set out, the Fathers being dres∣••ed in White Surplices; and the Chief a∣mong
them with Cloth of Silver over his Surplice, with two more dressed in the like Garb to lead him: there was a great Silver Crucifix carried before him, and two men going on each side of it, with Incense Pots, to perfume every holy place, that we came to. And so we went to the places follow∣ing.
1. The Pillar to which our Saviour was bound when he was scourged. 2. The Prison, wherein our Saviour was put. 3. The place where the Soldiers divided our Saviours Garments. 4. The place where St. Helena found our Saviours Cross. 5. The Pillar to which our Saviour was bound when he was Crowned with Thorns. 6. To Mount Cal∣vary, where he was Crucified. 7. The place where our Saviour was Nailed to the Cross. 8. To the place where he was Anointed. 9. To the Sepulchre of Christ. 10. The place where our Saviour appeared to Mary Magdalen in the shape of a Gardiner. 11. The Chappel of the Virgin Mary, where our Saviour first appeared to her after his Resurrection. I might give you a particular description of the Adornment of these places; but to be short, every one have Lamps burn¦ing at them; some are paved with Marble, others are hung with Pictures; the place where our Saviour was laid down to be nail∣ed
to the Cross, is paved with Marble also; but in the exact place where the Cross stood, the Marble is covered over with Silver, with Silver Lamps, and Wax candles continually burning; and our Saviour Crucified standing on it: the Sepulchre also is covered with Marble, with Silver Lamps continually burn∣ing on it; so hath the Anointing Stone: you must go into the Sepulchre bare foot, as also on Mount Calvary.
Here all sorts of Christians have their Churches: The Greeks have the best, the Latines▪ the Armenians, the C••pty's and the Syrians, have each of them Churches here. The Greeks and Latines are the two power∣ful Religions in the Temple, and with great Sums of money, and the credit they have at Stambul or Constantin••ple, buy these Holy Places out of one anothers hands; the other Parties are poor; and squeez'd into a small part of the Temple; The Latines once offer∣ed ten thousand Livers for a piece of the Cross, which the Greeks bought out of their hands. These Religious People bear little respect one to another, speaking very basely each of other. After our Procession, we went to view all the places and Churches again; the Greeks have a place in the middle of their Church, which they say, is the middle of the World: they have another place by the
Prison of Christ, with two holes to put the Feet in: there is also a Narrow Passage be∣tween two Pillars, which is in imitation of the streightness of the Path to Heaven, which the Greeks Creep through. In the Church of the Syrians, is the intended S••pulchre of Io∣seph of Arimathea, and Nicodemus: And near the Anointing Stone, is a Tomb, where Godfrey and Baldwin, Kings of Ierusalem, are buried. In the same place is the Rent of the Rock which begins above, near the place where our Saviour was Crucified, and in that Rent they say, Adams Head was found, when our Saviour gave up the Ghost. Thus having seen the Temple, we returned to t••e Convent.
May 28. we went out of the City at Damascus Gate, and turning on the right came to one of the Fish-ponds of the old City, and a quarter of a Mile further, to the Gro•• where Ieremiah lived when he Wrote his La∣mentations; on the left hand in the entrance, is a Led•• in the Rock, about a Story high, where they say Ieremiah slept; and below over against the Door, is a hole intended for his Sepulchre; and passing through a Rui∣nate Door, you come into the Y••rd, where his Well is, being a very good Spring of sweet Water; there you pay one Liver; af∣terwards passing along the side of a Moun∣tain,
that lies level with the City, a little beyond Ieremiahs Tomb, we came to the Sepulchre of the Kings; the entrance into the first Room was so small and low, that we were forced to creep in, in which there were seven Sepulchres cut out of the Rock: in the second Room, were eight; and in the third Room twenty six; and many more in several other Rooms: One of the Rooms hath a Door of Stone, Cut out of the Rock, and shuts and opens as a Door with Hinges; this Door belongs to the Room, wherein Ieho∣saphat was Buried; his Coffin is of Stone with a Cover to it, and is very neatly Wrote on the sides with Flowers, as several of them are also in the first Room, but they know not what Kings they are; there is also one ••ther Chamber into which we crept; so that there are in all 42 Burying places under Ground, to which there is but one door to enter, all adorned with Admirable Work∣manship; which I being unskilled in, am unfit to express in proper Terms: and so we return'd to the Convent, entring the City at the same Gate. May 29. we reposed, some of our company being a Marking. May 30. we took Horse to go for Bethlehem, and went out at the West Gate called Ioppa Gate, and turning on the left hand, and tak∣ing the lower Path, we passed along the
Road that the Virgin Mary brought our Sa∣viour, when She came to offer him at the Temple; and half a mile from the City is the place where the Tree Tirabintha Grew which the Virgin Mary sat under to give him Suck; but the Tree being Cut down, the place is incompassed with a Wall. On the left hand you see Davids house, when he spied Bathsheba washing her self; on the right a little out of the Road, is old Simeons and Elias House; and a quarter of a Mile fur∣ther is a Well where the Wise Men first saw the Star; a little further is the Ground where the Reapers were at work, when Ha∣bakkuk coming to bring them Meat, the An∣gel took him up by the Hair of the Head, and carried him into Babylon to Daniel in the Lions Den: afterward we saw Iacobs House; and a hill like a Sugar Loaf: where the Franks remained forty Years, after they were driven out of Ierusalem; next is a Mo∣nastery of Monks of the Order of St. Tavola Paula Romana, who when they die, are Bu∣ried at the Convent in Bethlehem.
A Mile further is the place where the An∣gels appeared to the Shepherds, and cryed, Gloria in Excelsis, &c. When our Saviou•• was Born, where there hath been a Convent; but now there only remains an Arched Vault, where we paid Money to the Arabs; who
when they espy any Franks going thither, Ride Post before to take Possession of the place, and get something from them; A quarter of a Mile from hence, in the way to Solomons Cisterns, is the Village of the Shep∣herds, on the back part whereof is a Well, of which they say, the Virgin Mary desired to Drink; but the Inhabitants denying to draw her any Water, it presently Overflow∣ed for her to Drink: a little way from this Village, is Iosephs House, and a while after, we came to Solomons Gardens lying shelving: At the bottom of them is the Road from Grand Cairo, and round the Top passes the Aqueduct, which feeds Ierusalem with Wa∣ter (from thence we saw Tekoa standing on a high Hill;) the water comes from the Foun∣tains which feed Solomons Cisterns; passing a Mile along by the Aqueduct, we came to Solomons Cisterns, which are Three; the first had no Water in it, and might be about 250. Yards long, sixty broad, and of a great depth; the second had little water, something less in Compass; the third was full of Water and as big as the first: they run one into ano∣ther, and are fed by the Spring that feeds the City. The Fathers say, that they were made ••o Swim in, they being built with steps for a Man to go down, but seem rather intended for a reserve of Water for the City or the
Gardens, having passage to both; near the Gardens, is an ill contrived Castle, where a few Villains inhabit, to whom we paid one Liver per Man, for leave to go into the Grot, where the Springs are that feed the City, and the Cisterns; it is large, and hath three Springs, and a large passage cut through the Rock, toward the Cisterns, passable by a Man, but we went not to the end of it.
We mounted our Horses to proceed on our Journey, leaving the Castle on the Right Hand, and at a distance we saw St. Georges Church, where the Fathers say, the Chains remain wherewith St. George was bound, which will presently cure a Mad-man if he be bound therewith. After an hour and a halfs Riding, we came near to Bethlehem, where passing through a narrow Lane, the Guard consisting of four or five Musqu••tiers, received five Livers of every one of us, and our Druggerman that went with us, received three: and arriving at the Convent, we paid one for our entrance; and after our being welcomed by the Fathers, we took our repose till five of the Clock in the Even∣ing; and then we prepared to go in Pro∣cession to the Holy Places in the same manner as we did at the Temple in Ierusalem; the Places we Visited were these.
1. The Place where our Saviour was
Born. 2. The Tomb of St. Ioseph to whom the Virgin Mary was espoused. 3. St. Inno∣cents Tomb. 4. The place where St. Ierom lived, when he translated the Bible into La∣tin. 5. St. Ieroms Praying place. 6. St. Ie∣roms Tomb. 7. St. Pauls Tomb. 8. St. Eustachias her Daughter. 9. The S••pulchre of St. Eusebius, Abbot of Bethlehem. 10. We return to the Chappel of St. Catherena, built by St. Paula. Next is the great Church without the Convent, which hath 48 Pillars of Marble about three Yards long, all in one Piece. At Evening we went to visit the place of our Saviours Birth, formerly belong∣ing to the Latines, till the Greeks bought it out of their Hand••; so that now the Latines, when they go their Procession, Pray at that Door by which they formerly entred. The Precipio hath two Doors, one over against the other, which are well lined with Carved Iron, and strengthned with Iron Spikes: We went in bare-foot; on the Right hand in the entrance, is the place they say where our Sa∣viour was Born, which is lined with Marble; and in the middle of the Room there is a lit∣tle place covered with Silver, by which they set a Dish to receive your Charity: On the left Hand is the Manger where the Virgin Mary laid our Saviour; which is Lined with Marble; and at the end of the Manger on
the Right Hand, is the Picture of St. Ierom naturally in the Marble, which the Fathers esteem as a Miracle, Over ••gainst this Man∣ger, is the place where the three wise Men stood, when they came to Worship our Sa∣viour: at the end of this place in a corner, is a hole made up with Marble, wherein they say, the Virgin Mary put the Water, when she had washed her hands: Over which a Lamp Burns continually: and a great many in other places. Over this Precipio, in the great Church is the Altar of Circumcision, where our Saviour was Circumcised.
Having seen what was Rare at Bethlehem, May 31. early in the Morning, we rose to proceed in our Journey, in which we saw these Places following. 1. The Grot where the Virgin Mary hid her self, when she was warned to Fly into Egypt, and her Milk running out of her Breasts there made the Earth turn White; which Earth the Catho∣licks do very much esteem. 2. Davids Ci∣sterns. 3. The Grot wherein the Virgin Mary and Ioseph lived, before they could get a House. 4. The Tomb of Rachel, Iacobs Wife, which the Turks do also much esteem. 5. The Field of Sennacherib, where the An∣gel of the Lord slew in one Night, One hun∣dred eighty five thousand of the Syrians; in this Place is a Village, which is called Bote∣chelle,
where the Fathers affirm no Turk can live. 6. The place where the Pillars of the Convent of Ramah were built. 7. The Vine∣yard whence the Spyes of the Land of Ca∣naan took the Cluster of Grapes, to shew the fruitfulness of it; also the Fountain where Philip Baptized the Q. of Sheba's Eunuch. 8. The Desarts of Iohn Baptist; and after an hours Riding we came to Iohn ••aptists Foun∣tain, where was his Chamber, and a Rock, wherein there was a place cut out like a Bench for his Bed; to break off any bit of this Rock, is Worthy Excommunication. 9. Zacharias House, where the Virgin Mary came to sa∣lute her Cousen Elizabeth; for the Angel that told her she should conceive, told her also, that her Cousen was with Child; and upon her salutation, the Child leaped in the Womb; Near this is House a Fountain with two Cisterns, which is called Elizab••ths Foun∣tain. 10. A Stone where Iohn Baptist Preach∣ed, which the Fathers say, the Turks have endeavoured to break in pieces, but could not. 11. The place where Iohn Baptist was Born, now a Stable, but formerly a Church, where the Fathers upon Iohn Baptists day carry their Organs thither, and Adorn the place for their Prayers. 12. The Tombs of the Mac∣cabees, which we saw at a distance, and be∣ing ruinated, appear as so many Arches. 13.
We passed by a Village, where the Men are all Turks, and the Women Christians; for the people being poor, the Turks were very severe with them for their Harach; who not being able to pay all at once, turned Turks, &c. 14. We came to the Mountain Crupil, where part of the Wood whereof our Saviours Cross was made, was cut down, and over the place where they say the Tree stood, is a stately Church, in the possession of the Greeks, the just place wh••re the Tree grew is inlaid with Silver, by which they set a D••sh for Charity: The Floor of this Church is well Wrought with Mosaick Work, and painted with Scripture Stories; and in∣stead of a Bell they knock upon a board, that hangs up, which sounds somewhat like a Bell.
And now we go forward to the Convent at Ierusalem, passing by M••unt Gihon where Solomon was Anoin••ed King, and about night we came to our Lodgings, having made two days journey to see the Holy places, and Traverse the Mountains of Iudea; we slept very well that night, but still we have mere Pilgrimages. June 1. We lay still to recover our selves of our Bethlehem Journey, But Father Tomasa out of his Zeal, is very importunate with us to be walking to see other places, which is very
Meritorious in the Roman Church; and had we been of their Religion, it had been im∣possible to have mist Heaven; for we had received indulgences for all our Lives; which fancy I wish do not deceive too many. June 2. We began to search for the Holy places, which are these following. 1. The Immolation of Isaac near the Temple, called Mount Moriah, inlaid with Silver, and a dish set by for your Offering. 2. Peters Prison, still made a Prison by the Turks: at the end of which, is a hole in the Wall, where they say the Chain was fasten'd, with which St. Peter was Chained; little remembring, how oft Jerusalem hath been destroyed, and the stones of that Old Wall are now probably as far under Ground, as these are above. 3. The Monastery of the Knights of Malta; a very fair Building, one Room hath several Partitions for Beds, with a hole in the mid∣dle, that if any of them are Sick or Fluxi∣tive, they are laid there to which the water, being Bad and the Air unwholesome, doth very much incline them. 4. Solomons Tem∣ple; which, if any Christian go into, or but up the stairs, he must Turn Turk, or be burnt: The Rarity of which I shall give you an Account of, when I come to a Pro∣spect. 5. St. Hellen's Hospital where there are seven great Caldrons, in which she used
to have Proivsions dressed for the Poor, where we pay one Liver for entranc••. 6. The Judgment Gate, at which our Sa∣viour was brought in: and near the Gate, is the place where he was Condemned. 7. The Dolorous Way, which Christ went, when he went to be Crucified; and in the way is the House of St. Veronica, who gave our Sa∣viour a Napkin to wipe his Face, as he passed by: there is also Lazarus's House, and the House of the Rich Glutton; and the place where our Saviour Fainted (as they say) and Simon took up the Cross; and near that, is the Church, where the Virgin Mary stood to see him pass by, and swounded with Grief; now called the Virgin Maries Church. 8. Herods Palace, now ruinated, and is now the Bashah's Seraglio; in one Room is the place where they Clothed our Saviour with Purple. 9. Pilates House, where they shew the place, where our Saviour was Crowned with Thorns, and the Pillar to which he was bound, which was brought from thence, and put into the Temple: next, we enter the Hall, where Pilate washed his Hands, and declared himself Innocent of our Saviours Blood: out of which place we had a fair Prospect of Solomons Temple; which is built within the middle of a spacious Yard very well Paved; there are several
Arches, good Walks, and Buildings about it: The Temple is Wrought with Mosaick Work, and by the Turks r••port, is very Rich within, it being one of th••••r Mosques; and though they have a Halt Moon upon all their Temples or Mosques, yet this only hath a Cross through the middle; The Fathers reporti••g it would not stand till the Cross was made. 10. The place where Christ was Scourged, now a Sh••p for Lin∣nen Cloth; but the Pillar to which ōur Sa∣viour was bound, is brought thence and put into the Temple. 11. The House of Annas, where our Saviour being hurried with Vio∣lence down a steep place, to prevent falling he laid hold of the corner of a Wall, where there is a place in one of the Stones, fit for a Mans Hand, which the Fathers account a great Miracle. 12. Simon the Pharisees House▪ where there is a Stone, with the print of a Foot, which they said our Saviour made when he stood to pardon Mary Magdale•• her Sins: The Fathers say, the Turks hav•• endeavoured oft times to remove thi•• Stone, but still it comes into the same plac•• again. 13. The House of Joakim and Anna•• a fair high Building; and in an Under Room, cut out of the Rock, is the plac•• where they say the Virgin Mary was Bor•• 14. The Pool of Bethesda, where the Sic••
lay to be healed; the Angel coming to trouble the Water, and he that entred in first, was healed; but it is now dry, and half filled with Earth. 15. S••. Stephens Gate and a little out of the City, is the place where Stephen was Stoned: and the Fathers fancy, that there is the print of his hands, Face and and Knees, when he fell down. 16. The Valley of Jehosaphat, at the bottom of the Hill, between the Mountain on which Jerusalem stands, and Mount Olivet. 17. The Place vvhere the Virgin Mary is Buri∣ed; vvhere going dovvn a great many stone steps, you come into a large Vault, vvhere all the Christians have their Altars apart, all being of several Opinions, and the Turks, and Christians, both burn Lamps, over her Grave; here vve pay One Liver for entrance; and 48 Stone Steps upvvard, is Josephs Tomb; and against that, the Tombs of Joakim and Anna. 18. The place vvhere Christ svvate Bloud, and the Angel appeared to Comfort him, is near the bottom of Mount Olivet. 19. The place vvhere our Saviour Prayed, that This Cup might pass from him; and near that place, is the Rock on vvhich his Disci∣ples sate, vvhen he vvent to Prayer, betvveen vvhich tvvo places he vvas taken; it is novv bordering on the Garden of Gethsemana, but might formerly be part of the Garden, and is
on the Ascent of the Mount Olivet; vvhere the Multitude going to Carry our Saviour avvay, Peter smote off Malchus his Ear. 20. The Place vvhere they say the Virgin Mary Prayed for St. Stephen, vvhile he vvas ston∣ing. 21. The place vvhere Christ Wept over Jerusalem, it is almost at the Top of Mount Olivet. 22. The Place vvhence our Saviour Ascended into Heaven having as they say, left the Print of his Foot on a stone; it hath novv a Chappel built over it, vvith 14 Mar∣ble Pillars; it is at the Top of Mount Olivet, and a little vvay off, is the Place vvhere the Men of Galilee stood, vvhen the Angel asked them, Why stand ye gazing up? 23. The Place vvhere the Angel told the Virgin, she should be Raised in three Days. 24. Pelagius his Grot; whence vve savv Bethphage, vvhere the Asses Colt vvas tied. 25. The Tree under vvhich our Saviour stood, vvhen he Preached the Judgment Sermon. 26. The place vvhere he made the Lords Prayer. 27. The Place vvhere the Apostles made the Creed; being a Grot of tvvelve Arches. 28. The Sepulchres of the Prophets, 47 in Num∣ber, cut out of the Rock; and entring in at a Door, vve came into a large Grot, vvhere there vvere several places to cut out, fit to contain a Coffin: here vve paid one Liver. 29. The Tree vvhere Judas Hanged
himself. 30. The Sepulchre vvhich Jehosa∣phat intended for himself; but being a King, he vvas buried in the Sepulchre of the Kings. 31. Absoloms Pillar or Sepulchre, vvhich is cut out of the Rock, and about the bigness of a small Chamber, vvith Pillars round a∣bout; like a Room built for some single Per∣son: it is of a good Height, and hath some Carving about it. 32. They say hereby is the Print of Christs Feet; for vvhen he vvas Carried to Jerusalem he stopped at the Brook Cedron, and desired to Drink: This Brook is novv but a small Channel and had no Water, but in the Winter time, the Water comes dovvn from the Hills, and makes a small Cur∣rent▪ 33. Next is the place vvhere S••. James hid himself three days, and three Nights; it is a place cut out of the Rock, vvhich must needs have been made for a dvvelling place; near this is the Sepulchre of Zacharia••s the Son of Barachias, cut out of the Rock. 34. On the side of the Hill on vvhich Solomon Worshipped Moloch, are Chambers cut out of the Rock, vvhich they say vvas the place, vvherein the Three hun∣dred Wives, and One thousand Concubines of Solomon vvere kept. 35. The Fountain of the Virgin Mary, vvhich you go dovvn to by stone steps; the Water vvhereof is so Svveet, that vvere a man blind-folded, he could not
think it to be any thing but Milk and Wa∣ter. 36. The Place vvhere the Prophet Isaiah vvas Savvn asunder: his Sepulchre is under a Rock near the same. 37. The Fountain of Siloa, by vvhich is a Cistern, vvherein for∣merly the Pilgrims used to Wash, but novv Ruined, and filled vvith Stones and Mud, yet is its Water still accounted good for the Eye-sight; and near this is Golgotha. 38. Next in a bottom, is a Well, vvherein they say Nehemiah hid the Holy Fire, vvhen the Children of Israel vvere carried Captive; and vvhen they returned 40 Years after, they say they found the same Fire in the Well. 39. Ascending up the Mount vve came to the Tombs of Annas and Cajaphas, vvho vvere High Priests. 40. And near it is the place vvhere the Apostles hid themselves; vvhere entring a streight passage, vve came into a Room under Ground, out of vvhich there go several holes vvherein they say, the Apostles lay. 41. We then came to Aceldama, a Grot, novv held by the Armenians for a Burying place: it is said, the Earth thereof vvill consume the Body of a Man in Forty Eight Hours: there are several Vents on the Top to let out the smell: We vvent dovvn under a Rock, to a place vvhere vve could look into it, and there savv the form of a Man entire, they being only laid in, but not
covered with Earth. 42. We came to the Fountain of Beersheba, at the bottom of Mount Sion, in which there is now little Wa∣ter, we being forced to tarry a quarter of an hour for one Draught.
Having seen all that was Remarkable in these Parts, we made toward the Convent, having got a great deal of Credit with Fa∣ther Tomaso; that we should be such Zealous Pilgrims as to walk from five a Clock in the morning till Mid-day; but he to encourage us, would still be foremost; and told us al∣ways, there was some place more worth our seeing, than any before; and though he was old, and the Weather hot, yet at the going up of a Hill, he would run, that he might be foremost: and gave all the good Words that could be, to encourage us Protestants who never hoped or thought, that we Merited any thing by it: but at length we came to the Convent again well weary, every one retiring to his Lodgings.
Iune 3. we reposed at the Convent; after Dinner, one of the Fathers came and told us, that the Father Guardian would wash our Feet; which Honour we accounted too great for us, and desired to be excused, but we were forced to comply with the Orders of the Convent; The Bason, which was as big as a Tub, was placed by a Chair, there were
Rose-Leaves and Herbs put into the Water; the Fathers all stood in a Row, Singing God∣ly Hymns; we sat down, and the Fath•••• Guardian wrapt a Towel about our Knees, to save our Clothes; then they began to scrub our Leggs and Feet, (being Masters of their Art;) there were two Fratres attending, one on one Leg, and another on the other; hav∣ing first dryed the left Foot, the Frater kisses it, and puts on our Slipper; then he dryes the Right Foot, and wraps the Towel about the Sole of the Foot, and setting it on his Knee, covers the Toes with his Hand, and then come all the Fratres, and Kiss it; he gives us a little Candle, in taking which, we kiss his Hand, and so rise and stand by, till all our Company are Washed in like manner. Then went we in Procession, round their Chappel, they saying several Prayers, at their three Altars, and so we return'd to our Chambers. Iune 4. After Dinner we went into the Kitchen, where we found all the Fa∣thers, with Napkins before them, washing the Dishes, every one taking his part, even to the Father Guardian himself; some were cleaning, some handing away; but all the while with one consent, they say some Prayer; it seeming to be their endeavour, that all that they do, may be done to the Glory of God; this being done they go all
to Prayers, and you shall never see the Chap∣pel without some of them; yea, and two or three times in the Night they Rise to Prayers. On Whitsunday the Chappel was Adorned something Extraordinarily, a very Rich Ca∣nopy being set on the Right Hand of the high Altar, for the Father Guardian to sit under; when the Prayers began, the Father Guardian came into the Chappel, and sate under this Canopy: There were three or four Fathers Drest in Cloth of Silver, like Heralds, two whereof attend on each side of the Guardian, and two stand over against him. Then they began to dress the Father Guardian in his Festival Robes, and having read two or three Lines, put a piece of Lin∣nen laced about his Neck, and then his Sur∣plice, Reading still between every Robe that was put on. Then they cover him with a Garment of Rich Sattin, and Cloth of Silver; the two that stand over against him, bowing at some words. His body being thus drest, the two Fathers put a Myter on his head, with all the Respect Imaginable; after a short Prayer, they take the Father Guardian by the hand, and lead him to the Altar, he standing in the middle of the four Fathers, adorned as aforesaid; the other Fathers have their Surplices on, and the Organs go; then making a short Prayer at the Altar, they lead
the Guardian to his place again; and af∣ter a little reading they take off his Myter, and he sits bare till the Prayer be done: then they put on another Myter; the first was of Cloth of Silver, and the second of Cloth of Gold•• set full of Rubies, and Diamonds, and other sorts of Stones; they afterward took off that also, and put on a third Myter, of Cloth of Gold, differing in shape from the others. The Guardian being led to and from the Altar, a great while, at length, when they came to read where ••he Holy Ghost came down upon the Apostles assembled to∣gether, a Father upon the Terrass, was ap∣pointed to throw down a white Pidgeon drest up with Ribbons, in imitation of the Holy Ghost, but he met with some difficulty; for the Window was so fast shut that he could not open it a great while, so that we had like to have gone away without their Holy Ghost: but this difficulty overcome, he made the Dove descend among us, which being done, after a Prayer, they began to undress the Father Guardian again, reading all the while his Robes were taking off; and so that days service was done.
Now we began to think of going to the Dead Seas, and the River Iordan, demand∣ing what our expence would be; the Fa∣thers say, 25 Livers, but we all agreed not
to give above 20. The Fathers sent our re∣solution to the Bassa, and he returned an∣swer, That if we would go, we should pay 22 Livers; and if we would not, he would have ten Livers a man; we thinking our selves under his command, were not willing to embroil the Convent, who bear all da∣mages, as they have done for several; but thanks be to God, none happened in our time. We all resolved to go except Mr. T. H. and one Englishman more, and a Dutchman, not thinking the Bassa had been in earnest; but because they went not, they were forced to pay ten Livers for nothing; we then came to Bethany, now a small Vil∣lage, where entring into a Grot under ground, we saw a Tomb; from whence they say our Saviour raised Lazarus, after he had been dead so many days; here we had the Bassa's guard to wait upon us, for fear of the Arabs, who are on the other side Iordan in the Land of Moab, and often make Incursions, and have sharp disputes, at the end of the Lance, with those that live on this side, in the land of Promise; The Bassa pretended, he must send fifty men with us, but it proved but fourteen or sixteen. Having reposed a little on the ground, about Nine at night, we mounted our Horses, and passing through the turning and winding of the Mountains,
came in the Morning to the foot of the Qua∣rantine Mountain, where we dismounted; and making the cold Earth our Bed, slept two or three hours, having our Horses made fast to our Hands; and the Sun rising, we rose also, and walked to Elisha's Fountain, a stones thro•• off; and before the Sun was too hot, we mounted our Horses at the foot of the Mountain, and so began to ascend, it being very steep; having ascended a great height, we came to the place where they say our Saviour slept, when he fasted forty days; and from that the Mountain received its name; this place is near the height of the Mountain but the passage to the top is known only to the Arabs; here is a Church over this place, where some Fathers have lived, till they were murthered by the Arabs. Be∣low are several Cisterns of water, and Fron∣tis pieces of Chappels, but the passage to them is cut off; as we were going up, the thoughts of the danger of descending, enters into our heads, and the E. of Germanies Drugger∣man for these Country Languages, being fearful, got two Turks to conduct him down, and so having all had a safe descent, we rode cheerfully back to Elisha's Fountain, for∣merly bitter; but he throwing in a handful of salt, the waters became sweet. Here we lay till four a Clock, and the heat of the Sun
being over, made for Iericho, arrived about five, where there are now only a few poor Cottages: we pitched by Zacheus Tree. The Inhabitants are most Arabians, and some few Greeks: here the Captain of the Village came to welcome our Bassa and his people mounted upon a Mare, valued at a Thousand Livers, Mares being only in esteem among them; here we reposed under a rot∣ten hedge, till about four next morning, having little pleasure in our companions, the Gnats and other stinging creatures.
We proceed for the River Iordan arriving by day light, and tarried about an hour to swim in the River; the stream is strong and rapid; and the force of a Man can scarce re∣sist it; it runs into the Dead Sea. Our Guard were very hasty for us to be gone, be∣ing afraid their Enemies should find them; therefore we all made ready and set forward for the Dead Sea; about two hours after in our way to the Sea we passed through a most cursed, barren place, not having so much as a green herb, or grass, and the face of the Earth was covered with Salt; and though it was dry, yet our Horses sunk up to the Knees. We come now to the Dead Sea, be∣ing about seventy or eighty Miles in breadth, and about Eighteen over: There is no place Visible from whence the Water, which
comes into it, runs out again, except it be under the Earth; neither doth it seem to increase with the water of the River Jordan, and of several other Waters that run into it: It was once a fruitful Valley, and compared, for delight, unto Paradise, and called Pen∣••apolis, of her five Cities, but afterward de∣stroyed with fire from Heaven, and turned into this filthy Lake, and barren desolation which doth encompass it: and to try the ver∣tue that is reported to be in the water, wherein they say a man cannot sink, some of our Company went into the Sea, and found it impossible to get their bodies under water, yea could hardly keep their legs under; The Water is sulphury, and the extremity of the saltness not to be exprest; when they came out, there was a perfect Oyl upon their bo∣dies. Our Eyes being satisfied with Curio∣sities, and Rarities, we make what haste we can back to Jerusalem: The Ruins of one of the Cities, that were destroyed for Sodomy, now lyes good part out of the water, and is supposed to be Zeboim.
Now the Sun gets strength, and by re∣flection on the ground, makes the heat so violent, that our faces looked as if the skin were flead off, by riding in the Sun, from Morning till four afternoon; but the Fathers being accustomed, to meet with tender
faced Travellers, soon provided something to mitigate our pain, which was much in∣creased, by the saltness of the water of the Dead Sea: this night we took little plea∣sure in eating, but more in sleeping, having had but little in this Voyage. Having now visi∣ted all the places in the Holy Land, which Pil∣grims usually do, we prepare for our return.
Iune 9. We being resolved to set forward in the Morning, the Father Guardian came and gave us his blessing, and sprinkled us with Holy Water, desiring us to excuse our Bad Treatment, and that if at any time we had been distasted we would pass it over; but we knew it was a complement, for we had the Civilest Entertainment imaginable, and very far from disgusting us; for they were not only ready to be our servants, but our slaves, yea, my honest name sake Father Tomaso, never ceased from Morning to Night, from bringing us either Victuals or Drink, or asking us whether we wanted any thing; and now for this his fourteen days service, we were no ways capable to recom∣pence him; for they would take no money, but for our Victuals, and some other small ser∣vices; we therefore presented to the Con∣vent, thirty Livers a piece, and some that had servants more. The Father Procurator receiving it, they entred all our names in a
Book, and the sums we gave: the Book where the names only were written we had a view of, and took a Copy of all the English-mens that were in it, from the year 1661. to this day, being 158 in number.
Now taking our leaves of the Fathers, they all shewed great affection to us, weeping, and expressing their desires, to enjoy our compa∣ny longer; and our desires were as much to be nearer home, to have an Account of our Friends.
Iune 4. we departed, our Mulletteers hav∣ing provided us Horses; intending to take Emaus in our way, but night drawing on, we made St. Ieroms Church our sleeping place; formerly Fathers lived in it, but the Arabs came upon them in the night, and cut all their Throats; The Church is well built, and hath been adorned with Pictures on the Wall, of which some remain to this day. About two hours riding from Ierusalem, we passed over the brook, out of which they say, David gathered the Pebble stones, to slay Goliah. Iune 5. we arrived at the Con∣vent in Ramah about ten in the Morning; where we tarried till mid-night, at which time there was a Ship to depart, and some of us intended to embarque; the rest took a Boat like a Gravesend Barge; we put our provi∣sions of Bread and Wine aboard, and so put
to Sea, keeping always near the shore for fear of a Storm. After three days Sail, we arrived at Aerica, formerly called Ptolemais, always coming to Anchor at night; this place is famous for nothing but the ruins, the Road being so bad, that all the Art Captains have, can but keep their Cables together. The Commodities in this place are only Cot∣tons, Pot-ashes, and some Filletto's. Two days after we arrived at Trippoly, where we made bold at our old House; the Consul receives us very gladly, and our design was to depart next day, but the Plague still rag∣ing at Aleppo, the Consul forced us to stay 12 or 14 days; all which time we were treated like Princes, and then by his leave we imbarqued on a Dutch Ship for Scande∣roon; the rest of our Company (whom we left at Aerica to go to see the Sea of Galilee) being arrived. Iune 26. we arrived at Scanderoon, where some were dead, and o∣thers dying, and one flying from another. We tarried upon the Mount and aboard the Ship for some time: and July 2d. we arrived at Aleppo: where there died at that time, Seventy or Eighty of a day of the Plague. And thus ended our Journey.