And the day of laying down the Praetexta, and taking up this, was called in their Kalender, Liberia, at which time, they, or their Relations, put into the Treasury (which was in the Temple of Youth) a Roman Penny, whereby they knew the true number of those that came to Mans estate that year.
Thirdly, Toga Candida, which was worn by those that sued for publick Offices, called Candida, because, besides the natural Whiteness of its colour, it was arti∣ficially made more intensively white and conspicuous with Chalk, from hence those that stood for such Offices were termed, Candidati.
Fourthly, Toga pulla, this Gown (whilest the Common weal flourisht) was only used by Mourners, but under the Emperours, when the Toga alba, or Virilis, grew out of fashion, these black Gowns were the ordinary wear of the Common people.
Hence grew that distinction, unknown to former Ages, of Pullati, which signified the Commonalty, and Candidati, the better sort of Citizens, and not those (as for∣merly it signified) which sued for Magistracies. With such Gowns, in most parts of Italy, they wrapped up their dead, from whence Juvenal takes occasion to write thus,
Pars magna Italiae (si verum admittimus) in quá
Nemo togam sumit nifi mortuus—.
Such Gowns in Italy (if truth wee'l hear)
The dead instead of Winding-sheets did wear.
The Sordida Toga, which was also the wear of the Poorer sort, was not of a Cole∣black colour, as Sigonius falsly imagined, but was a Gown which at first was White, but afterwards, by long usage and constant wearing, became durty and sullied, for the Richer and neater sort of People alwaies went abroad in White garments, and if by walking they had contracted any filth, there were Fullers at Rome on purpose, who would take out those spots with Sulphur and Chalk, and restore them to their pristine colour.
But on the daies of publick and private Rejoycing, they appeared in fresh Gowns more particularly, the Meaner sort also, who could not change so often, were wont, on daies of Publick Games (that they might seem finer, and gentiler than ordinary) to Chalk their Gowns all over, but the Nobility, who alwaies appeared in White, if they were supposed Guilty, during the time of their Arraignment, both they, and their Relations, wore this Toga Sordida, their Hair, and their Beards, long, neglecting on purpose all kind of Ornaments, that they might the easier incline the People to pity and favour.
Not only the Romans, but the Jewish Nobility also affected this colour of White, thereby distinguishing in like manner their People from their Noble-men, and those of the better Rank they termed 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Chorim, Albatos, Men in White, and on the contrary, the ordinary sort 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Chaschucim, Sordidatos, Men clad in foul Garments.
Toga Picta was an Hetrurian Garment, of a Purple colour, embroidered and richly wrought with Gold, worn generally by those that had the liberty of a Tri∣umph allowed them, therefore 'twas some times called Toga Triumphalis, brought to Rome by Tarquinius Priscus, after the conquest of Hetruria, sometimes Toga Palmata, from the Palm-branches which were wrought in it, betokening Vi∣ctory.
Toga Purpurea was not wrought or flowered, but plain, differing in that respect from the Toga picta, and from the Praetexta, in regard that was all white, except the Border or Edging, which was purple, this all purple, having no such gard or edging at all.
There were three sorts of Gowns termed Trabeae, the first consisted of Purple only, termed Trabea consecrata, sacred to the Gods, the second was of Purple woven upon White, called Trabea Regia, worn by their Kings, the third was Scarlet woven upon Purple, called Trabea Auguralis, which the Augures, or Sooth sayers only did wear.