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THIS Province, called by our Welsh Bri∣taines, Vltw, in Irish, Cui Guilly, in Latine, Vltonia, and Vlidia, in Eng∣lish Vlster,* 1.1 on the North is divided by a narrow Sea from Scotland; Southwaad it extends it selfe to Connagh and Leinster; the East part lyeth upon the Irish Sea; and the West part is conti∣nually beaten with the boisterous rage of the maine West O∣cean. This Province and furthest part of Ireland affronteth the Scotish Ilands, which are called the Hebrides, and are scat∣tered in the Seas betweene both Kingdomes; whose in∣habitants at this day is the Irish Scot, successour of the old Scythian.
* 1.2(2) The forme thereof is round, reaching in length from Coldagh Haven in her North, to Kilmore in her South, neere an hundred miles; and in bredth from Black-Abbey in her East, to Calebegh point in her West, one hundred thirty and odde miles: The whole in circumference, about foure hun∣dred and twenty miles.
(3) This Country seldome feeleth any unseasonable ex∣tremities,* 1.3 the quick and flexible winds cooling the heat of Summer, and soft and gentle showers mollifie the hardnesse of the Winter. Briefly, the frozen nor horrid Zone have not here any usurpation; the clouds in the ayre very sweet and pleasant, yea, and when they are most impure, are not un∣wholesome, nor of long continuance, the rough winds hold∣ing them in continuall agitation.
* 1.4(4) This equall temperature causeth the ground to bring forth great store of severall Trees, both fit for building, and bearing of fruit; plentifull of grasse for the breeding of Cat∣tle, and is abundantly furnished with Horses, Sheepe, and Oxen; the Rivers likewise pay double tribute, deep enough to carry Vessels either for pleasure or profit, and fish great store, both for their owne uses, and commodity of others. Salmons in some Rivers of this County abound more in number then in any River of Europe.* 1.5 To speak (in generall) though in some places it be some what barren, troubled with Loughs, Lakes, and thick Woods, yet is it every where fresh, and full of Cattle and forrage, ready at all times to answer the husbandmans paines. But Nature is there so little beholding to Art or Industry,* 1.6 that the various shew upon banks, the sha∣die groves, the greene meadowes, hanging hilles, and fields fit for Corne, (if they were manured) doe seeme to be angry with their Inhabitants for suffering all to grow wilde and barbarous, through their owne negligence.
* 1.7(5) This County in Ptolemies dayes was wholly posses∣sed by the Voluntii, Darni, Robogdii, and Erdini, who bran∣ched and spred themselves into the severall parts of that Island.
(6) The people of this Province were accustomed in controversies and solemne protestations,* 1.8 to sweare by S. Pa∣trickes Staffe, which oath they feared more to break, then if they had sworne by the holy Evangelist. Their ancient cu∣stome in making their King, was this: A white Cow was ta∣ken, which the King must kill,* 1.9 and seethe the same in water whole, then must he bathe himselfe therein starke naked; and sitting in the Cawdron wherin it was sod, accompanied with his people round about him, he and they used to eat the flesh and drinke the broath wherein he sate, without cup, or dish, or use of hand. How farre these prescriptions and customes were different from the conformities of other civill Monar∣chies, we may well perceive by these and other like observa∣tions of those grosse times, and as yet they are more barba∣rous then is any other part of the Island besides.
(7) Historians relating of Ireland, tell of severall Islands in the severall Provinces: some full of Angels, some full of Devils; some for male only, some for female; some where none may live, some where none can dye; and such effects of trees, stones, and waters, that a man (but of easie conceit) may well esteeme them as heedlesse as uncertaine. So also S. Patrickes Purgatory (a thing of much note in the Tract of this Province) is a vault or narrow cave in the ground,* 1.10 neere a Lake (called Erne Lyffer) much spoken of, by reason of (I wot not what) fearfull walking spirits, and dreadfull appari∣tions, (or rather some religious horrour) which (as some ri∣diculously dreame) was digged by Vlysses when hee went downe to parley with those in hell. This is the cave which the Inhabitants in these dayes call Ellan u' Frugadory,* 1.11 that is, The Isle of Purgatory, and S. Patricks Purgatory: for some persons, lesse devout then credulous, affirme that S. Patricke (or rather Patricius Secundus an holy Abbot of that name) labouring the conversion of the people of this Province, and much inforcing the life to come, they replyed contemptu∣ously unto him, that unlesse they saw proofes of those joyes and paines he preached, they would not lose the possession of their present pleasures, in hope or feare of things to come, they wist not when. Whereupon (as they say) he obtained at Gods hands by earnest prayer, that the punishments and torments which the godlesse are to suffer after this life, might be there presented to the eye, that so he might more easily root out the sins and heathenish errors, that stuck so fast in the hearts of the Irish. But touching the credit hereof (al∣though common fame, and some records do utter it) I nei∣ther will urge the beliefe, nor regard, seeing it is no Article of our Creed.
(8) Matters memorable within this Province are these:* 1.12 first, that the Bishops of Ireland were wont to be consecrated by the Arch-bishop of Canterbury,* 1.13 in regard of the Primacie which they had in this country; untill such time as Iohn Pa∣pirio a Cardinall was sent thither from Pope Eugenius ••he fourth, to reform Ecclesiastical discipline in this Iland, which was then growne so loose, that there were translations, and pluralities of Bishops, according to the will and pleasure of the Metropolitane.* 1.14 Also that the Irish-men were accustomed to leave and forsake their wedded wives at their owne free∣willes, whereof Lanfranck Arch-bishop of Canterbury com∣plained unto Therdeluac, a King of Ireland. And had not this Nation been corrupted with this vice, even unto these our dayes; both the right of lineall succession had been more cer∣taine among them, and the Gentry and Comminalty had not in such cruelties imbrued themselves, with such effusion of their owne kindreds bloud, about their inheritances and le∣gitimation.
(9) The principall place in this Tract is Armagh neare unto the River Kalin,* 1.15 which (albeit it maketh a poor shew) is the Archiepiscopall See and Metropolitane of the whole Is∣land. Before S. Patricke had built there a faire City, for site, forme, quantity, and compasse, modelled out (as he saith) by the appointment and direction of Angels, this place was na∣med Drumsalich; the Irish tel much that it received the name of Queene Armacha: but the better opinions are, that it is the same which Bed•• calleth Dearmach, and out of the Scot∣tish and Irish language interpreteth it, The Field of Oakes. Here (as S. Bernard writeth) S. Patricke the Apostle of Ire∣land ruled in his life-time,* 1.16 and rested after death: in honour of whom it was of such venerable estimation in old time, that not only Bishops and Priests, but Kings also and Princes were (in general) subject to the Metropolitane therof in all obedi∣ence, and to his government alone. Among the Arch-bishops of this Province, S. Malachy is famoused,* 1.17 who first prohibi∣ted Priests marriage in Ireland, and (as S. Bernard saith, who wrote his life at large) borrowed no more of the native bar∣barousnesse of that Country, then Sea-fishes do saltnesse of the Seas.* 1.18 Also Richard Fitz-Ralf (commonly called Armacha∣nus) is of famous memory, who turning the edge of his stile, about the yeare 1355. began to oppose his opinion against the Order of Mendicant Fryers, as detesting in Christians such voluntary begging. The chiefe Fort in this Tract is Enis Kel∣ling,* 1.19 defended by the Rebels in the yeare 1593. and won by Dowdall, a most valiant Captain: neere unto which is a great downfall of water, termed The Salmon-Leape:* 1.20 of which there is a common speech currant among the Inhabitants, that is was once firme ground, very populous, and well hus∣banded with tillage; till it was suddenly over-flowne with waters, and turned into a Lake, for some filthy abominable acts of the people against Nature committed with beasts.
(10) The places of Religion,* 1.21 sequestred from other worldly services, and consecrated to holy purposes, erected in this Province, were: The Abbey which sheweth it selfe at Donegal: The Monastery of Derie, where the Irish Re∣bell Shane O-Neal received such an overthrow (by Edward Randolph, renowned for his service in the behalf of his Coun∣try) that he could never after recover the losse he sustained at that time: The Monastery neere unto the River Liffer: The famous Monastery at the Bay of Knockfergus, of the same institution, name, and order, as was that ancient Abbey in England, neere unto Chester, called Banchor: Also Mellifont Abbey, founded by Donald a King of Vriel, and much com∣mended by S. Bernard: And lastly, the most renowned Mo∣nastery, built as Armagh in the yeare of our Salvation 610. out of which very many Monasteries were afterwards pro∣pagate both in Britaine and Ireland. These places were farre and neere frequented and sought unto by great confluences of Pilgrims, till Time proved their devotions to be erroni∣ous, and the pure light of the Word revealed, opening the eyes of their understanding, hath taught them to shake oft the shame of such Superstitions.
(11) That the people of this County might be kepth with∣in the bounds of their duty, this Province hath been secured with fifty six Castles and Forts; and for trade of commerce, nine Market-Townes appointed,* 1.22 being divided into these Counties ensuing:
| Counties, | Dunghall, or Tyr connell. | Nether Tyrone. | Monaghan. | Downe. |
| Fermanagh. | Colrane. | Armagh.* 1.23 | ||
| Vpper Tyrone. | Cavan. | Antrim. | Lough. |