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* 1.1GLAMORGAN-SHIRE, as some thinke, named from Prince Mor∣gan the possessor thereof, or ac∣cording to others, is taken from Morgan an Abbey, founded by William Earle of Gloucester, up∣on the Sea-shoare in the South of this Shire, lyeth bounded up∣on that part altogether with the British Sea; the West by Loghor, is parted from Caermarden-shire; the North butteth upon the Countie of Breknok; and the East by Remney is divided from Monmouth.
* 1.2(2) The forme of this Shire groweth still wider from her West-point, spreading her broadest touch in the East, betwixt which extreames I finde by mea∣sure to be well-neere fortie English miles, and from North to South, not altogether twentie: the whole in circumference, about one hundred and twelve miles.
* 1.3(3) The ayre is temperate, and gives more con∣tent to the minde, then the Soile doth fruit or ease unto Travellers. The hils being high and very many, which from the North notwithstanding are lessened as it were by degrees; and towards the Sea-coasts, the Countrey becommeth somewhat plaine, which part is the best both for plentie of Graine, and popu∣lous of Inhabitants. The rest all mountaine, is re∣plenished with Cattle, which is the best meanes unto wealth that this Shire doth affoord; upon whose Hils you may behold whole Herds of them feeding, and from whose Rocks, most cleere springing wa∣ters thorow the vallies trickling, which sportingly doe passe with a most pleasant sound, and did not a little revive my wearied spirits among those vast mountaines, imployed in their search: whose infan∣cy at first admitted an easie step over; but grown unto strength, more boldly forbad me such passage, and with a more sterne countenance held on their jour∣ney unto the British Seas:* 1.4 and Tave among these is accounted for a chiefe.
* 1.5(4) Upon whose fall, and East-banke, the fairest Towne of all South-Wales is seated, the Britains Caer∣did, the English Caerdiffe, which Fitz-Haimon fortifi∣ed with a Wall and Castle, in the Raigne of King Ru∣fus, when he and his Norman Knights had overcome Rhese the Prince of these parts, and thrust our Iestine from his lawfull possession. This Towne he made his own Seat and Court of Justice, enjoyning his Consorts to give aide to this honour, and to hold their portions in vassallage of him. Strong was the Castle, as by the trust therein reposed may well ap∣peare,* 1.6 where the youngest brother Beauclark kept captive the eldest Curthose,* 1.7 both of them sonnes to the Conquerour, the space of twentie-sixe yeeres. This Castle is large, and in good repaire, whence the Towne-wall went both South and East to the Rivers side, thorow which, foure Gates enter into the foure windes, and contain in compasse nine hun∣dred and twenty pases; and along the River (a sure defence) upon her West side, three hundred more, so that the Towne containeth in circuit twelve hun∣dred and fourescore pases. But as the Tave is a friend to the Towne, in making a Key for arrivage of ship∣ping; so is she a foe to S. Maries Church in the South, with undermining her foundations, and threatning her fall. The Towne is governed by a Major, yeere∣ly elected out of twelve Aldermen, assisted with o∣ther twelve Burgesses, a Town-Clerke, foure Con∣stables, and two Sergeants with Mace: whose site is observed from the North-Starre to lie in the degree of Latitude,* 1.8 51. and 49. scruples; and from the first point in the West, 16. and 52. scruples.
(5) In the same graduation almost is sited the Citie Landaf,* 1.9 wherein is a Castle and Cathedrall Church, dedicated to S. Telean, Bishop of the same, without any other memorable matter worthy the speaking of.
(6) But things of strange note are these, by the report of Giraldus,* 1.10 who affirmeth, that In a Rocke or Cliffe upon the Sea-side, and Iland Barry, lying neere the South-East point of this County,* 1.11 is heard out of a little Chinke (let him take heed what he saith) the noise as it were of Smiths at their worke; one whiles the blowing of Bellowes to increase the heat, then the stroakes of the Hammer, and sound of the Anvile; sometimes the noise of the Grind-stone in grinding of Iron tooles; then the his∣sing sparks of Steele-gads, as they flie from their beating, with the puffing noise of flames in a Furnace. And whe∣ther this is the place whereof Clemens Alexandrinus speaketh,* 1.12 I determine not; where in his writings he hath these words: They that have recorded Histories (saith he) doe say that in the Ile of Britaine, there is a certaine Hole or Cave under the bottome of an hill, and on the top thereof a gaping Chinke, into the which when the wind is gathered, and tossed to and fro in the wombe or concavitie thereof, there is heard above, a sound of Cym∣bals: for the winde being driven backe from his hole, is forced to make a loud sound at her vent.
(7) More Westward from hence, upon the River Ogmore, and neere unto Newton, in a sandy plaine, about an hundred pases from Severne, there spring∣eth a Well,* 1.13 though not of the clearest water, where at the flowing and fulnesse of the Sea, can hardly any water be gotten; but at the ebbe and fall of tyde it walloweth up amaine. The cause may be, as Polybius reports of the like at Cadys;* 1.14 wherein the windie aire, when it is deprived of his wonted issues, forcibly returneth, shutting and stopping up the passages and veines of the Spring, whereby the waters are kept in. But contrariwise, when the surface thereof is voyd and emptie of water, the veines of the Source or Spring are unstopped and set free, which then boyleth up in great abundance.
(8) And upon the same shoare more North and by West,* 1.15 on the top of a hill called Minyd-Margan, is erected a Monument inscribed with a strange Cha∣racter, and as strange a conceit held thereof by the by-dwellers, whose opinions are possessed, that if a∣ny man reade the same, he shall shortly after die.
This Shire, as it is the furthest Coast of South-wales, and lay open to sorraine invasion; so was it fortified with twenty five stronger Castles, whereof times and stormes have devoured the most:* 1.16 such were Barry, Saint Doneits, Denispowes, Morlashe, Meneshe, Loghor, Llāddeny, Llāquian, Oxwich, Oystermouth, Ogmor, Pise, Porkery, Pennarth, Winston, Newcastle, Caerfly, Coche, Pe∣ullyn, Kethligarne, Kenfeage, Tallavan, Treer and Cothy.
Neither was the County so ill seated for sufficien∣cie of life, or barren of graine, but that therein were planted places for divine pietie:* 1.17 such were Neeth, Margan, and Caerdif, besides the Episcopall See of Landaf: which last still remaineth; the other three suppressed among the fall of their like, under King Henry the eight.
This Shire is divided into ten Hundreds,* 1.18 wherein are seated sixe Market-Townes, and one hundred and eighteene Parish-Churches, as in the Card and Table annexed, more at large appeareth.