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CHAPTER XLIII.
WESTMORLAND, by some late Latine Writers is called West∣maria,* 1.1 and Westmorlandia, by some later Westmoria, and in our English Tongue Westmorland. It came to be thus named in our Language by the situation, which in every part is so plen∣teously full of Moores and high hils, reaching one to another, that Westmorland (with us) is nothing else but a Westerne Moorish Countrey. Having on the West and North-side Cumberland, on the South-part Lanca-sbire, on the East-side Yorke-shire, and the Bishopricke of Durham.
(2) The length thereof extended from Burton in her South,* 1.2 to Kirkland on her North-part is thirtie miles:* 1.3 the broadest part from East to West, is from the River Eden to Dunbalrase-stones, containing 24. miles, the whole circumference about hundred and twelve miles.
(3) The forme thereof is somewhat long and nar∣row:* 1.4 the Ayre sharpe and piercing, purging it selfe from the trouble of grosse foggy mists and vapours, by reason of which the people of this Province are not accquainted with strange diseases or imperfecti∣ons of body, but live long, and are healthfull, and attaine to the number of many yeares.
(4) The Soile for the most part of it,* 1.5 is but barren, and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulnes by the industry and painfull labour of the husbandman, being so full of infertile places, which the Northern Englishmen call Moores: yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile, but more fruitfull in the vallies, though contained in a narrow roome, betweene the River Lone, and Winander-mear, and it is all termed by one name. The Barony of Kendale or Candale, that is, the dale by Can, taking the name of the River Can that runnes through it.
(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Brigantes,* 1.6 mentioned in the severall Counties of Yorke, Lancaster, and Cumberland.
(6) It is not commended either for plenty of corn or Cattle,* 1.7 being neither stored with arable grounds to bring forth the one, norpasturage to breed up the other: the principal profit that the people of this Province raise unto themselves, is by Cloathing.
(7) The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale,* 1.8 called also Kirkeby Kendale, standing on the bank of the river Can. This Towne is of great trade and resort, and for the diligent and industrious pra∣ctice of making Cloath so excels the rest, that in re∣gard thereof it carrieth a supereminent name above them, and hath great vent and traffick for her wool∣len Cloaths through all the parts of England. It chal∣lengeth not much glory for Antiquitie; onely this it accounteth a great credit, that it hath dignified three Earles with the title thereof,* 1.9 as Iohn Duke of Bedford, whom Henry the fift (being his brother) advanced to that honour, Iohn Duke of Sommerset, and Iohn de Foix, whom King Henry the sixt prefer∣red to that dignitie for his honourable and trustie services done in the French Warres.* 1.10 It is a place of very civill and orderly Government, the which is managed by an Alderman, chosen every yeare out of his twelve Brethren, who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of Purple gar∣ments. The Alderman and his Senior Brother are alwayes Justices of Peace and Quorum. There are in it a Town-Clerke, a Recorder two Sergeants at Mace,* 1.11 and two Chamberlaines. By Mathematicall observation the site of this Towne is in the de∣gree of Longitude 17.30. scruples, from the first West point, and the Pole elevated in Latitude to the degree 55. and 15. minutes.
(8) Places of memorable note for Antiquitie are Verterae,* 1.12 mentioned by Antonine the Emperour; and Aballaba, which we contractly call Apelby. In the one the Northern English conspired against William the Conquerour in the beginning of the Norman govern∣ment.* 1.13 In the other, the Aurelian Maures kept a stati∣on in the time of the Romanes, & their high street is yet apparantly to be seen by the ridges therof which lead by Apelby to a place called Brovonacum, mentio∣ned in the Booke of Provinciall notices.* 1.14 The anticke pieces of Roman Coyne otherwhiles digged up here∣abouts, and some inscriptions not long since found, shew of what continuance they have been: although Time, which devoureth all things, hath so fed upon their carkasses many ages together, as it hath almost consumed both houses and Inhabitants. For Apelby now is bare both of people and building, and were it not for the antiquitie that makes it the more estima∣ble,* 1.15 in whose Castle the Assises are commonly kept, it would be little better in account then a Village. Verterae is long since decayed, and the name of it changed into Burgh: for it is cōmonly named Burgh under Stanemore. In which, it is said, a Romane Cap∣tain made his abode with a band of Directores,* 1.16 in the declining age of the Roman Empire. These two pla∣ces William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds, and writeth that William King of Scots a little before he himselfe was taken prisoner at Alnewicke, surpri∣zed them on a suddain,* 1.17 but K. Iohn recovered them after, and liberally bestowed them upon Robert Vi∣pont for his many worthy services.
(9) There is mention made but of one religious house that hath bin in all this Country,* 1.18 and that was a little Monastery seated neere unto the River Loden built by Thomas the sonne of Gospatrick, the sonne of Orms: where there is a fountaine or spring that ebbes and flowes many times a day, and it is thought that some notable act of atchievement hath been perfor∣med there, for that there be huge stones in forme of Pyramides,* 1.19 some nine foote high, and fourteen foot thick, ranged for a mile in length directly in a row, and equally distant, which might seeme to have bin there purposely pitched in memory thereof: but what that Act was, is not now knowne, but quite worne out of remembrance by times injury.
(10) Other matters worthy observation are onely these:* 1.20 that at Amboglana, now called Amble-side, neere the upper corner of Wimander-mear, there ap∣peares at this day the ruines of an ancient Citie, which by the British Brickes, by Roman-money often∣times found there, by High-wayes paved leading un∣to it, and other likelihoods, seemes to have beene a worke of the Romanes: The Fortresse therof so long fenced with a ditch and rampire, that it tooke up in length one hundred thirty two Ells, and in bredth eight. There are also neere Kendale in the River Can, two Catadupae or Waterfals, where the waters descend with such a forcible downefall,* 1.21 that it com∣pels a mighty noise to be heard, wch the neighbour Inhabitants make such use of, as they stand them in as good stead as Prognostications:* 1.22 for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more cleare, and with a louder eccho in their eares, they certainely looke for faire weather to follow: But when that on the South doth the like, they expect foggy mists and showres of raine.
(11) This Province is traded with foure Market-Towns,* 1.23 fortified with the strength of seven Castles, and hath 26. Parishes in it for the celebration of Di∣vine service.