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The Bishopricke of DVRHAM.
THe Bishoprick of Durham contain∣eth those parts and Town ships that lye betwixt the River Tees and Derwent,* 1.1 and all along the Germane-Seas. It is neighbour∣ed on the North with Nor∣thumberland, and their Jurisdi∣ctions, parted by the River Derwent: her West is touched by Cumberland, West∣morland, and from Staine-more divided by the River Tees, and by the same water on her South, from York∣shire even unto the Sea; and the East is altogether coasted by the Germane-Seas.
* 1.2(2) The forme thereof is triangle, and sides not much differing; for from her South-East, unto the West-point,* 1.3 are about thirty miles; from thence to her North-East and Tyne-mouth, are likewise as ma∣ny, and her base along the Sea shore are twenty three; the whole in circumference, about one hun∣dred and three miles.
* 1.4(3) The Ayre is sharpe and very piercing, and would be more, were it not that the vapours from the German-Seas did helpe much to dissolve her ice and snow: and the store of Coales therein growing and gotten, doe warme the body, and keepe backe the cold, which fuell, besides their owne use, doth yeeld great commodities unto this Province, by trade thereof into other parts.
* 1.5(4) For soile, it consisteth much alike of pastures, arable, and barren grounds: the East is the richest and most champion, the South more moorish, but well inhabited; her West all rockie, without either grasse or graine, notwithstanding recompenceth her pos∣sessors with as great gaine, both in rearing up cattle, and bringing forth coale,* 1.6 whereof all this Country is plentifully stored, and groweth so neere to the upper face of the earth, that in the trod wayes the cart∣wheeles do turne up the same. Some hold their sub∣stance to bee a clammy kinde of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth,* 1.7 and so becoming con∣cocted, is nothing else but Bitumen; for proofe wher∣of, these Coales have both the like smell and ope∣ration of Bitumen: for being sprinckled with water, they burne more vehemently, but with Oyle are quite extinguished and put out.
* 1.8(5) The ancient Inhabitants knowne unto Ptole∣mie, were the Brigantes, of whom we have spoken in the Generall of Yorkshire, they being subdued by the Romans, after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberlands Kingdome; at first a Province belon∣ging to the Deirians, and enjoyed by Ella their first King; afterwards invaded by the Danes, and lastly possessed by the Normans: whose site being so neer unto Scotland, hath many times felt their fury, and hath bin as buckler betwixt them and the English; for which cause,* 1.9 the Inhabitants have certaine free∣domes, and are not charged with service as other Counties are, so that this with Westmorland, Cumber∣land, and Northumberland, are not divided into Hun∣dreds in those Parliament Rolles whence I had the rest: which want I must leave for others to supply.
(6) Over this County, the Bishops thereof have had the Royalties of Princes, and the Inhabitants have pleaded priviledge not to passe in service of warre over the River of Tees or Tyne; whose charge (as they have alledged) was to keepe and defend the corps of S. Cuthbert their great adored Saint,* 1.10 and therefore they termed themselves, The holy-worke-folkes. And the repute of this Cuthbert and his suppo∣sed defence against the Scots was such, that our Eng∣lish Kings in great devotion have gone in pilgrimage to visite his Tombe, and have given many large pos∣sessions to his Church:* 1.11 such were King Egfrid Ael∣fred, and Guthrun the Danc, Edward, and Athelstan Monarch of England, and zealous Canute, the greatest of all who came thither bare footed and at Cuthberts Tombe both augmented and confirmed their Li∣berties. This Saint then, of nothing made Durham become great, and William the Conquerour, of a Bi∣shoprick made it a County Palatine: at that time William Careleph, Bishop of the Diocesse, pulled down the old Church which Aldwin had built, and with sumptu∣ous cost laid the foundations of a new, wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancie of the Bishops, was the keeper of the Castle-keyes.
In the West of this Church, and place called Galli∣le, the Marble Tombe of venerable Beda remaineth,* 1.12 who was borne at Iarro in this County, and became a Monk at Weremouth, whose painfull industries and light of learning in those times of darkenesse are wonderfull, as the Volumes which he wrote do well declare. And had the idle Monkes of England im∣ployed their times after his example, their founders expectations had not been frustrate,* 1.13 nor those foun∣dations so easily overturned. But the revenge of sin ever following the actions of sinnes, dissolved first the largenesses of this Counties liberties, under the raigne of King Edward the first, and since hath sha∣ken to pieces those places herein erected, under the raigne of King Henry the eight: such were Durham, Sherborne, Stayndrop, Iarro, Weremouth, and Egleton, all which felt the reward of their idlenesse, and wrath of him that is jealous of his owne honour.
(7) Things of rare note observed in this Shire, are three Pits of a wonderfull depth, commonly called the Hell-Kettles,* 1.14 which are adjoyning neer unto Dar∣lington, whose waters are somewhat warm. These are thought to come of an Earth-quake, which happen∣ed in the yeer of grace 1179. whereof the Chronicle of Tyn-mouth maketh mention, whose record is this: On Christmas day, at Oxenhall in the Territory of Darlington, within the Bishopricke of Durham, the ground heaved up aloft, like unto a high Tower, & so con∣tinued all that day, as it were unmoveable, untill the even∣ing; and then fell with so horrible a no••se, that it made all the neighbour dwellers sure afraide: and the earth swallowed it up, and made in the same place a deep pit, which is there to be seene for a testimony unto this day.
(8) Of no lesse admiration are certaine stones ly∣ing within the River Weere, at Butterbee neere Dur∣ham; from whose sides at the Ebbe and low water in the Summer, issueth a certaine salt reddish water, which with the Sunne waxeth white, and growing into a thicke substance,* 1.15 becometh a necessary salt to the use of the by-dwellers.
(9) And places of elder times had in account by the Romanes, were Benovium, now Binchester,* 1.16 and Con∣dercum,* 1.17 Chester in the street, where their monies have beene digged up, and at Condercum so much, that Egelrik Bishop of Durham was therewith made ex∣ceedingly rich.* 1.18
This Country hath been strengthned with seven strong Castles,* 1.19 is yet traded with six Market Towns, and Gods divine honour in one hundred and eigh∣teene Parish-Churches celebrated, whose names in the Table are further inserted.