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THE VVEST-RIDING OF YORKE-SHIRE. CHAPTER XL.
THE other Division, which is called the West-Riding of Yorkeshire, lying towards the North-West,* 1.1 carryeth a great compasse: On the North-side it borders upon part of the North-Ri∣ding: On the East upon part of the East-Riding, and part of Lincoln-shire. The West-side is neighboured with part of Lanca-shire: The South confined with Notting∣ham and part of Darby-shires.
* 1.2(2) The Ayre unto which this Countie is subject, is for the most part frigid and cold, much subject to sharpe winds, hard frosts, and other intemperate and Winter-like disposi∣tions of weather: in so much as the people of this Province are inured to maintain a moderate and ordinary heat in their bodies, by an extraordinary hardnesse of labour, and thereby become very healthfull, and not so often afflicted with infir∣mities, as others are that live more easily.
* 1.3(3) Although the Soile in the generalitie be not fruitfull, as lying very high and full of ragged rockes and swelling mountaines, yet the sides thereof stooping in some places doe beare good grasse, and the bottomes and vallies are not altogether unfertill. That part that borders upon Lancashire is so mountainous and waste, so unsightly and full of solita∣rinesse, that the bordering neighbours call certaine little Ri∣vers that creepe along this way, by a contemptible name, Hell becks. That part againe, where the River Vre cutteth thorow the vale called Wends-dale, is very good ground, where great flockes of sheepe doe pasture, and which, in some places, do naturally yeeld great plenty of Lead-stones: In other places, where the hils are barren and bare of Corne and Cattle, they make a recompence of those wants by the store of Copper,* 1.4 Lead, and Stone, or Pit-coale, with the which they are abundantly furnished. That part where the River Swale running downe East-ward, out of the West Mountaines (with a violent and swift streame) to unlade her selfe into the River Vre, and passing along a large and o∣pen vale, which derives the name from her, and is called Swale-dale, hath a neighbouring place full of Lead-Oare: and for the lacke of woods,* 1.5 which doth here much pinch the people, they are requited againe with plentie of grasse, which this place yeelds them in great abundance. Thus hath provident nature for every discommoditie made a∣mends with a contrarietie, and furnished the defects of one place with sufficient supply from another.
(4) The ancient Inhabitants knowne unto Ptolomey, and of whom there is other mention made,* 1.6 as well in the gene∣rall and other particular divisions of Yorke-shire, as in the Countries likewise joyning in proximitie unto them, were the Brigantes, subdued by the Romanes. And because the roome best fitted for the Citie of Yorke, in this Chard I have placed it, whose description you may finde in the Generall; so the North-riding, spacious to containe the sites of the Townes, Hull and Richmond, are therein charged: but want∣ing place there to relate of both, I am constrained to speake of the latter here; desiring my Reader to beare with these necessities. Richmond the chiefe Towne of the North-Ri∣ding, seated upon Swale, seemed to have been fenced with a Wall,* 1.7 whose Gates yet stand in the midst of the Towne, so that the Suburbs are extended farre without the same. It is indifferently populous and well frequented, the people most imployed in knitting of Stockings, wherewith even the decrepit, and children, get their own livings.
* 1.8(5) Alan the first Earle thereof, distrusting the strength of Gilling (a Manor house of his not farre off, called by Bede Gethling) to withstand the violence of the Danes and Eng∣lish, whom the Normans had despoiled of their inheritance, built this Towne, and gave it ••e name, calling it Rich∣mond, as one would say, The Rich Mount, which he forti∣fied with a Wall and strong Castle set upon a Rocke: for Gilling ever since the time that Oswy King of Northumber∣land (being there Guest-wise entertained) was murthe∣rously made away,* 1.9 was more regarded in respect of Reli∣gion, then for any strength it had: in expiation of which murther, the Monastery was founded and had in great ac∣count among our Ancestors.* 1.10 This Towne for the admini∣stration of government, hath an Alderman yeerely chosen out of twelve Brethren, who is assisted by twentie foure Burgesses, a Recorder, foure Chamberlaines, and two Ser∣geants at Mace. The position of this place for Latitude is set in the deg. 55.17. min. from the North-Pole,* 1.11 and for Lon∣gitude from the first West-point in the degr. 18. and 50 min.
(6) Things of raritie and worthy observation in this Countie,* 1.12 are those hils neere Richmond, where there is a Mine or Delfe of Copper,* 1.13 mentioned in a Charter of King Edward the fourth, having not as yet beene pierced into. Also, those Mountaines, on the top whereof are found cer∣taine stones much like unto Sea-winkles,* 1.14 Cockles, and o∣ther Sea-fish; which if they be not the wonders of nature, yet with Orosius (a Christian Historiographer) we may deeme to be the undoubted tokens of the generall Deluge, that in Noahs time over-flowed the whole face of the earth. Also the River Swale (spoken of before) which among the ancient English was reputed a very sacred River,* 1.15 and cele∣brated with an universall glory, for that (the English-Saxons first embracing Christianitie) in one day about ten thousand men, besides a multitude of women and children, were therein baptized unto Christ, by the hands of Paulinus Arch-bishop of Yorke:* 1.16 A holy spectacle, when out of one Rivers Channell so great a progenie sprung up, for the cele∣stiall and heavenly Citie.
(7) Places in elder times had in great estimation with the Romanes,* 1.17 were Bayntbridge, where they in those dayes had a Garrison lying, the reliques whereof are there remain∣ing. Bowes,* 1.18 in Antonines Itinerary called Lavatrae or Leva∣trae, (both by the account of distance, and the site thereof, by the high street of the Romans) confirmes the antiquitie by a large stone found in the Church, sometimes used for an Altar-stone, with an inscription upon it to the honour of the Emperour Hadrian. The first Cohort also of the Thracians lay here in Garrison,* 1.19 whilest Virius Lupus ruled as Lieute∣nant Generall, and Propretor of Britaine under the Empe∣rour Severus, as appeares by inscriptions from hence transla∣ted to Connington in Huntingtonshire. Here also in the de∣clining estate of the Romane Empire, the Band or Compa∣ny of the Exploratores kept their Station, under the dispose of the Generall of Britaine,* 1.20 as is witnessed by the Notice of Provinces. At Spittle on Stanemore is the fragment of a Crosse,* 1.21 by us called Rerecrosse, by Scots, Reicrosse, as one would say, The Kings Crosse, which Hector Boetius (a Sco∣tish Writer) recordeth to have been a Meere-stone confi∣ning England and Scotland. And a little lower, upon the Ro∣mans high Street, stood a little Fort of the Romanes, built foure-square, which at this day is called Maiden Castle. At Burgh (in times past called Bracchium) the sixt Cohort of the Nervians lay in Garrison.* 1.22 And not long since, the Statue of Aurelius Commodus the Emperour was digged up, which Statue of his may then seeme to be erected,* 1.23 when he prizing himselfe more then a man, proceeded to that folly, that he commanded himselfe to be called, The Romane Her∣cules, Iupiters Sonne. For he was purtraied in the habit of Hercules, his right hand armed, holding a Club: and this hath appeared by a mangled inscription found lying under the same Statue. Catarike and Catt-rrick-bridge (amongst the rest) bring in arguments of their antiquitie,* 1.24 as well by the situation thereof neere unto the High-street-way which the Romanes made, as also by heapes of rubbish here and there dispersed, which shew very probable signes to confirm the same.
(8) Places of devotion, sequestred from other worldly affaires,* 1.25 and consecrated to religious uses, were these: The Monastery built neere Richmond,* 1.26 the Abbey for Canons, erected at Coverham (now called Corham) in Coverdale, and the Abbey of Cistertians,* 1.27 first founded at Fois, and af∣ter translated to Iervis or Iervalle,* 1.28 which is watered by the River Vre. These flourished in the dayes of ignorance and obscuritie,* 1.29 and were flockt unto in great Confluences, be∣fore the darknesse of errours was chased and driven away by the light of holy Faith:* 1.30 but since the operation of Go••s Almightie grace hath so wrought in the hearts of the faith∣full, that they have not onely spurned and trodden their Idols under their feete, but have also made the very places (that were their receptacles) to become the ruinous objects of superstition.
(9) This Division of Yorkeshire, called the West-Riding hath beene strengthned with four strong Castles,* 1.31 is yet traded with twentie one Market-Townes, and Gods divine service is celebrated in one hundred and foure Parish-Chur∣ches, besides Chappels, whereof there is an Alphabeticall enumeration in the Table following.