An epitome of Mr. John Speed's theatre of the empire of Great Britain And of his prospect of the most famous parts of the world. In this new edition are added, the despciptions of His Majesties dominions abroad, viz. New England, New York, 226 Carolina, Florida, 251 Virginia, Maryland, 212 Jamaica, 232 Barbados, 239 as also the empire of the great Mogol, with the rest of the East-Indies, 255 the empire of Russia, 266 with their respective descriptions.

[illustration] map of Wales

WALES

The Description of WALES.

CHAPTER I.

ANtiquity hath avouched, that the whole Isle of Britain was divided into three Parts. The first and fairest lay contained within the French-Seas, the Rivers of Sev••rn••, D••••, and Humber, called then L••oyger, which name it yet retaineth in Welsh; in English called England. The second part occupied all the Land Northward from Humber, to the Orkney-Sea, called by the Latines, Mar•• Caledonium, or D••uc••l••••o••ium, now famously known by the name of Scotland. The third part was this, lying betwixt the Irish-Seas, the Rivers S••∣verne and Dee, and was called C••mbria, which name doth yet continue with them, though we, the E••g∣lish, call it Wales, as the People Welshmen, which is, strange and strangers; for so at this day the dwellers of Tyroll in the higher Germany, whence our Saxons are said to have come, do name the Italian their next neighbour) a Welshman, and his language Welsh.

(2) This opinion Versteg••n doth altogether contradict, rather judging by the ancient T••ut••••ick tongue, which the Germans spake, and wherein the G is pronounced for W that these S••xo••s called them Gallish from the Gaules, whence their original proceeded, rather than Wallish from strangers: which he thinketh could not be, considering their habitations so neer unto them; and that the like was in use, he proveth by the words of Erench Gardian for Wardian, Cornugalles for C••rw••lles, yea and Galles for Walles, calling our most famous Edward Prince of Galles not Prince of W••lles: inso∣much that the County of Lombardy, bordering along upon the Germans, was of them called G••lli••∣ci••

cis-alphina, and at this day Welsh-land. So likewise do the Netherlands call the Inhabitants of Henalt and Artois, Wallen or Wallo••s, and some part of Brabant and Flanders, Welsh-Brabant, and Welsh-Fla••∣ders, and all because of the Language and Lineage of the Gauls. Neither do the meer Natives of Wales know any other name of their Country than Cambria, of themselves than Cambri or Cumri, or of their Language than Cambraoc. But leaving this opinion free to his affection, we will proceed.

(3) Wales therefore being anciently bounded as before, the Saxons did afterwards win by force from the Britains, all the plain and Champion Country over the River Dee; and especially Offa King of Mercia, made their limits straighter, by making a Ditch of great breadth and depth, to be a Mear betwixt this Kingdom and Wales. This Ditch is in many places to be seen at this day, and bears the name of Clawh Offa, that is, Offaes Ditch. The Country between it and England is commonly called the Marches, and is for the most part inhabited by Welshmen, especially in North-Wales, even to the Ri∣ver Dee. This admirable Trench began at Bassi••gwerke in Elintshire, between Chester and Ruthland, and ran along the Hills to the South-Sea, a little from Bristow, reaching above an hundred miles in length.

(4) Silvester Giraldus makes the River Wye to be the Mear between England and Wales, on the South part, called South-Wales: whence he ascribeth the breadth of Wales unto Saint Davids in Men••∣vi••, to be an hundred miles; and the length from Caerleon upon Vske in Gwentland, to Holly-head in Angles••y, an hundred miles, he might have said thirty more.

(5) About the year of Christ 870, our Alfred reigning in England, Rodericus Magnus King of VVales did divide it into three Talaiths, Regions, or Territories, which were called Kingdoms. This Rodericus Magnus gave Ven••d••tia, Gwyneth or North-Wales, to Anarawd his eldest son; to Cadeth his second son Deme••ia, Debeu••arth or South-VValls; and to Mervin his third son, Powys.

(6) North-VVales had upon the North-side the Irish-Sea, from the River Dee to Bassingwerke to Aberdyvi: upon the West and South-West▪ the River Dyvi, which divideth it from South-VVales, and in some places from Powysland. And on the South and East, it is divided from Powys, sometimes with high Hills, and sometimes with Rivers, till it come again to the River Dee. It is generally full of high Mountains, craggy Rocks, great Woods, and deep Vallies, many strait dangerous places, deep and swift Rivers.

(7) This Land was of old time divided into four parts, Mon, Arvon, Meryonith▪ and y Bervedhwlan, or the middle Country, and each of these were again divided into several Countries, and they subdi∣vided into their Cymeden or Commots, wherein we follow that division which was in the time of Llewy∣lyn ap Ruffin, last Prince of VVales, according to a Copy imparted to me by a worshipful Friend and learned Antiquary, as seeming far more exact than that of Doctor Powels.

(8) A••gl••sey the chiefest, is separated from the main Land with the River Moenai, wherein at Aber∣fraw was the Princes Court, now a mean Village. In this Island is a fair Town called Beaumarish, And common passage to Ireland at Caergybi, in English, Holly-head.

(9) Arv••n, the second part of North-VVales, is now called Carnarvanshire, the strongest Country within that Principality, giving place to none for fertility of the ground, or for plenty of Wood, Cat∣tel, Fish, and Fowl, &c. Here are the Towns of Caernarvan, in old time called Caer-Sego••t, and Bangor the Bishops See, with divers other ancient Castles, and places of memory. This portion hath on the North, the Sea and Moe••ai; upon the East and South-East, the River Conwey, which divideth it from Den••igh-shire: and on the South-West is separated from Merionyth, by Rivers, Mountains, and Mears.

(10) Merionyth was the third part of Gwyneth, and keepeth the name till this day; it is full of Hills, and much noted for the resort of People that repair thither to take Herr••ngs. Upon the North it

hath Arvon and Denbigh land; upon the South, Caerdigan-Shire; and upon the East, Montg••m••ry-shire, heretofore part of Powis. In this County standeth the Town of Harlech, and a great Lake cal∣led Llyn-Tegyd, This Country is likewise full of Cattel, Fowl, and Fish, and hath in it great store of red Deer and Roes, but there is much scarcity of Corn.

(11) Y Bervedhwland was the fourth part of Gwyneth, and may be called in English, The middle Country: is inclosed with Hills, on the East, West, and South-parts, and with the Sea Northward. It is plentiful of Cattel, Fish, and Fowl, as also of Corn: and is divided in the midst with the River Clwyd, to which run a number of other Rivers from the Hills. In this part is Dyffryn-Clwyd, the fair∣est Valley within Wales, containing eighteen miles in length, and seven in breadth. In which is the Town and Castle of Ruthl••n, near unto the Sea; and not far thence, S. Assaph, an Episcopal seat, be∣tween the Rivers Clwyd and Elwy. Herein stands the fair Town and goodly Castle of Denbigh, situa∣ted upon a Rock, the greatest Market-Town of North-Wales: and from thence is seen the Town and Castle of Ruthyn, fair for prospect, and fruitful for fite. This part of North-Wales hath the Sea upon the North; Dee toward the East; Arvon, The River Conwey, and M••ri••nyth upon the West; and the Country then called P••wys, upon the South.

And these were the Mears and Bounds of the four Parts of Vened••tia, Gwyneth, or North-Wales.

(12) The second Talaith or Kingdom, was Mathraval or Powys. To this belonged the Country of Powys, and the Land between Wye and Sev••rne. It hath South-Wales upon the South and West, with the Rivers Wye and Tywy, and other Mears: upon the North, Gwy••eth; and upon the East, the Mar∣ches of England, from Chester to Wye, a little above Hereford. This part was divided into Powis Vadoc, Powis between Wye and Severne, and Powis-We••wynwyn. In Powis-Vadoc is the Castle of Holt in Bromefield and the Castle of Chirke in Chirk••land; the Castle likewise of Whittington; and Lordship of Oswestrie, with others.

(13) The second part of Powi••, or the Territory belonging to Mathr••v••l, is Po••is between 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and Severne, (or Guy and Hauren) whereof some is at this day in Montgo••ery-shir••, some in Rad∣nor-shire, and some in Brecknock-shire; and among sundry other, hath these Towns and Castles fol∣lowing.

Montgomery: The Castle of Cly••, The Town of Knight••n: The Castle of Cy••aron: Presteyn: The Town and the Castle of Rad••or, called in Welch, Maesyvet, which is at this day the Shire-Town: The Town of Kinton, and the Castle of Huntington.

(14) The third part belonging to Mathraval (the chief seat of Powis, after the Welsh were driven from Pe••gwern or Shrewsbury) was Powis Wenwynwy••, a County full of Woods, Hills, and Rivers, having in it among others, the Towns of Welsh-Pool, New-Town, Machin••a••th Arustly was anciently in this part, but afterward it came to them of Gwyneth.

This may suffice, for the description of that which in old time was called Gwyneth and Powis.

(15) It now remaineth that we describe the last Kingdom of Wales, called Demetia-Deheubarth, or the Talaith of Dinevowr, which although it was the greatest, yet was it not the best, because it was much molested with Flemings and Normans, and for that also divers parts thereof would not obey their Prince, as in Gwent, and in Morganwe.

(16) This was divided into six parts, of which Cardiga•• was the first, and is a Champion Country, without much Wood. It hath Merionyth-shire on the North: part of Powys upon the East: Carmar∣den-shire and Pembroke-shire, with the River Tivi, upon the South: and upon the West, the Irish-Sea. In this part is the Town of Cardiga•• upon Tivi, not far from the Sea; as also the Town of Aberstwyth upon the River Istwyth; and L••a••bad••r••evowr, which in times past wa•• a great Sanctuary: there were also many Castles; as of Str••tneyrie, of Walter, of L••an••ysted, of Dyv••rth, and of A••er-Royd••ll, &c.

(17) The second part was called Dyvet, and at this day Pembroke-shire. It hath upon the North and West, the Irish-Sea; upon the East, Carmarden-shire; and upon the South, Severne. There are in it sundry Towns and Havens: among others, these: Pembroke: Tenby: Hereford-West, with the goodly and many Branched Haven of Milford, called in Welsh, Aberdangledhett: S. Davids, or Menevia, which is the chiefest See in Wales: Fiscard, called Aberwayn: and Newport, named Tresdreth.

(18) The third part was Carmarden-shire, which is a Country accounted the strongest part of all South-Wales: as that which is full of high Mountains, great Woods, and fair Rivers.

(19) The fourth called Morganwe, now Glamorgan-shire, hath on the South, the Severne-Sea, which divideth it self from Devon-shire and Cornwall upon the West and North-West, Carmardenshire: upon the North-East, Brecknock-shire; and upon the East, Monmouth-shire.

(20) The fifth now called Gwent, and in Monmouth-shire, hath in it the ancient City of Caerlhe••n upon Vske. There are also divers Towns and Castles, Chepstow, Glynstrygul, Ros, Tynterne upon the Ri∣ver Wye, &c. This is a fair and fertile Country. It hath on the West, Glamorgan and Brecknock-shir••s: upon the North, Hereford-shire: upon the East, Glocester-shire: with the River Wye, and the River Se∣verne upon the South and South-East.

(21) The last is Brecknock-shire, for the most part full of Mountains, Woods and Rivers. This Coun∣try is both great and large, being full of fair Plains and Valley, for Corn; it hath plenty of thick Woods Forrests and Parks. It is full also of clear and deep Rivers, of which Severne is the chiefest; although, there be other fair Rivers, as Vske and the like.

(22) Thus far concerning the ancient Welsh division by Talaiths: but the present division di∣stributeth them more compendiously into two Countries, and twelve Shires, enacted so by Parlia∣ment under King Henry the Eighth. The Countries are North-Wales, and South-Wales, which have sha∣red,

and as it were devoured between them, all Powysland; each of which Countries contains 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Shires.

North-Wales,

• A••gles••y,
• C••ernarvan,
• Merionyth,
• Denbigh.
• Flint.
• Montgomery.

South-Wales.

• Cardigan.
• Pembroke.
• Carmarden.
• Glamorgan.
• Brecknock.
• Rad••••r.

But whereas Monmouth-shire and Radnor, were anciently parts, the first of South-Wales, the other of Powys-land: Monmouth-shire by Act of Parliament also under the same King, was pluckt away whol∣ly from Wales, and laid to England, one of whose Counties and Shires it was from that time forward, and is at this present reckoned; and Radnor-Shire (as it were in lieu thereof) is comprehended in South-Wales. Humphry Hluyd a Welsh Gentleman, in his Epistle and Map of old Wales, maketh menti∣on of a West-Wales, which he calleth Deme••ia and Dyfer, the one the Latine, and the other the British name there: but because it is wholly swallowed up by this last division, we will not perplex the Reader with superfluous and impertinent recitals.

[illustration] map of Pembrokeshire

PEMBROK Shire

PEMBROKE-SHIRE.

CHAPTER II.

PEMBROKE-SHIRE the furthest Promonto••y of all West-Wales, li••th parted on the North from Cardigan-shire, with the Rivers Tivy and Keach; and on the East is Confronted by Caermarden-shire; the South and West shooting far into the Irish-Seas, is with the same altogether washed.

(2) The form thereof is longer than it is broad; for from S. Govens South-point to Cardigan-bridge in the North, are twenty six miles; the Eastern Landenie to S. Davids-point in the West, are twenty miles; the whole circumference is ninety three miles.

(3) The Air is passing temperate, by the report of Giraldus, who 〈◊〉〈◊〉 his reason from the sit•• of Ireland, against which it butteth, and is so nearly adjoyned, that 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Ruf•• thought it possible to make a Bridge of his Ships over the Sea, whereby he might pass to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 on foot.

(4) Anciently it was po••••essed by the Demetia, further branched into Cardigan and Caermarden-shires, as in that County hath been said, and in the Saxons Conquest and H••ptarchy, by the Britai••s forced into those parts for refuge, whither H••••ry the First, and third of the Normans Kings, sent cer∣tain Flemings (whose Country was over-whelmed with the breaking in of the Seas) to inhabit the Maritime Tract called Rosse, lying West upon the River Dougledye. These Dutchmen (saith Giraldus) were a strong and stout Nation, inured to Wars, and accustomed to seek gain by Cloathi••g, Traffique, and Tillage, and ever ready for the Field to fight it out, adding withal, that they were most loyal ••o the English, and most faithful to the Englishmen. Whereupon Malmesbury writeth thus: Many a tim•• did King William Rufus a••••aile the Welsh, but ••ver in vain: which is to be wondred a••, ••nsid••ring

his other fortunate success. But (saith he it may be the unevenness of the ground, and sharpness of the air, that maintained their courage, and impeached his valour: which to redress, King Henry his Brother found means; for those Flemings, who in regard of his Mothers kindred by the Fathers side, s••rely pestred and endamaged the English he sent into Wales, both to purge a••d disburden his own Kingdom, and to quell and keep back th•• courage of his enemies. These men here seated, deceived not his expectation, but so carried themselves in his quarrel, that they seldome communicated with their Neighbours, so that to this day they speak not the Language, and the Country is yet called Little England beyond Wales.

(5) The Commodities of this Shire are Corn, Cattel, Sea-Fish, and Fowl, and in Giraldus his daies of saleable Wines, the Havens being so commodious for Ships arrivage: such is that at Ten∣by and Milford, and Haven of such capacity, that sixteen Creeks, ••ive Bays, and thirteen Roads known all by several names 〈◊〉〈◊〉 therein contained, where Henry of Richmond, of most happy memory, arrived with 〈…〉〈…〉 of E••glands freedom from under the government of an usurping Tyrant.

(6) Near unto this is Pembroke the Shire-Town seated, more ancient in shew than it is in years, and more houses without Inhabitants, than I saw in any one City throughout my Survey. It is walled long-wife, and them but indifferent for repair, containing in circuit eight hundred and fourscore pa∣ces, having three Gates of passage, and at the West-end a large Castle, and locked Causey, that leads over the water to the decayed Priory of Monton. The site of this Town is in the degree of Longitude, as Merc••tor doth measure, 14 and 35 minutes, and the Elevation from the North-Pole in the degree of Latitude 52.

(7) A City as barren is old Saint Davids, neither clad with Woods, nor garnished with Rivers, nor beau••ified with Fields, nor adorned with Meadows, but lieth alwaies open both to Wind and

Storms. Yet hath it been a Nursery to Holy Men, for herein lived Calphurnius, a Britain Priest, whose Wife was Choncha, Sister to Saint Martin, and both of them the Pa••ents of Saint Patrick the Apostle of Ireland. Devi a most Religious Bishop, made this an Archepiscopal See, removed from Isca Legi••∣num. This the Britains call Tuy Dewy, the House of Devi: we Saint Davids,: a City with few In∣habitants: yet hath it a fair Cathedral Church, dedicated to Saint Andrew and David, in the midst of whose Quire lieth intombed Edmond Earl of Richmond, Father to King Henry the Seventh: whose Monument (as the Prebends told me) spared their Church from other defacements, when all went down under the Hammers of King Henry the Eighth. About this is a fair Wall, and the Bishops Palace, all of Free-Stone, a goodly House I assure you, and of great Receit, whose uncovered Tops cause the curious Works in the Walls daily to weep, and them to fear their downfal ere long.

(8) But Monton the Priory, and S. Dogmels, places of devout piety erected in this County, found not the like favour, when the commission of their dissolutions came down against them, and the axes of destruction cut down the props of their Walls.

(9) This Shire hath been strengthened with sixteen Castles, besides two Block-Houses commandi••g the Mouth of Milf••rd-Haven, and is still traded in five Market-Towns, being divided into seven Hun∣dreds, and in them seated one hundred forty five Pari••h-Churches.

[illustration] map of Radnorshire

RADNOR BREK¦NOK CARDIGAN and CAERMAR∣THEN discribed

Petrus Kaerius caelavit 1500.

RADNOR-SHIRE.

CHAPTER III.

RADNOR-SHIRE, lyeth bordered upon the North with the County Monmouth, upon the East toucheth Shropshire; and Herefo••dshire; the Rivers Clarwen and Wye, divide it from Brecknock in the South; and the West part doth shorten point-wise in Cardigan-shire.

(2) The form thereof is in proportion triangle, every side containing almost a like distance: for from West to North are twenty miles; from North to South, twenty two miles; and from South to West are twenty four miles: the whole in circumference extending to four∣score and ten miles.

(3) The Air thereof is sharp and cold (as most of Wales is) for that the Snow lieth and lasteth long unmelted under those shadowing high Hills and over-hanging Rocks.

(4) The Soil is hungry, though not barren, and that in the East and South the best: the other parts are rough and churlish, and hardly bettered by painful labour; so that the Riches of the North and West consisted chiefly in the brood of Cattel.

(5) Anciently this County was posse••••ed by the Sil••res, warlike People, and great withstanders of the Romans Impo••itions, who had not only them to ••ight against, but withal the unacce••••ible Mountains, wherewith this Shire is so overpressed and burdened, that many times I feared to look down from the hanging Rocks, whereunder I passed into those deep and dark Dales, seeming to me an entrance into Limb••. Among th••se (as say our Historia••s) that hateful Prince to God and Man, V••rtig••r, his Countries scourge, and last Monarch of the British-blood, by Fire from Heaven was consu∣med with his incestuous Wise, from whom ••ini•• nameth the Country wherein his Castle stood,

Guartiger-Maur, of whose Rubbish the Castle Guthremion was raised, as some are of opinion. Yet they of North-Wales will have his destruction and Castle to stand in their parts near unto Beth-Kellech, whereof we will further speak in the relation of his Life. Fatal was this place also to Llewellin the last Prince of the British Race, who being betrayed by the Men of Buelth, ••••ed into those vast Moun∣tains of Radnor, where by Adam Francton he was slain, and his Head (Crowned with Ivy) set upon the Tower of London.

(6) Places most worthy of note in this Shire, are as ensueth; The first is Radnor, from whom the County receiveth her name anciently Magi, where the Commander of the Pacensian Regiment lay, and thought to be the Magnos in Antonine the Emperours Survey. This Town is pleasantly seated un∣der a Hill, whereon standeth mounted a large and strong Castle, from whose Bulwark a Trench is drawn along the West of the Town, whereon a Wall of Stone was once raised, as by the remains in ma∣ny places appeareth. This Trench doth likewise inverge her West-side so far as the River, but after is no more seen: whose Graduation is observed to have the Pole elevated for Latitude 52 degrees, and 45 minutes; and for Longitude, from the first Point of the West set by Mercator 17 degrees and one minute.

Prestayn for beautious building is the best in this Shire, a Town of Commerce, wonderfully fre∣quented, and that very lately. Next is K••ighton, a Market-Town likewise, under which is seen the Clawdh-Offa, or Offaes Dit••h, whose Tract for a space I followed along the edge of the Moun∣••ain, which was a bound set to separate the Welsh from the English by the Mercian King Offa: and by Egber•• the Monarch, a Law made, by the instigation of his Wife, that it should be present death for the Welsh to pass over the same, as Iohn Bever the Monk of Westminster reporteth: and the like under H••∣••ald as Iohn of Salisbury writeth; wherein it was ordained: that what Welshman soever should be found with any weapon on this side of that Limit, which was Offaes Ditch, should have his right

hand cut off by the Kings Officers. The fourth place for account is Raihader Gowy, who besides the great fall of Wye with a continual noyse, hath her Markets there kept upon the Sabbath, which I there observed, and here note for an offence.

(7) Many Rivers arise and run thorow this Shire, which were it not that the Hills so cluster together might make the Soyl both fertile and fat. Such are Teme, Lug, Ithon, Clowdok, Dulas, Comatton, Somegill, Guithel, Arro, Machaway, Edway, Hawye, Eland, Clarwen, and Wye, besides other Lo••ghs that stand betwixt the Hills.

This Shire is divided into six Hundreds, wherein are seated three Forrests, four Market-Towns, si•• Castles, and fifty two Parish-Churches.

BRECKNOCK-SHIRE.

CHAPTER IV.

BRECKNOCK-SHIRE, in the British language Brethin••a••, (so called as the Welshmen re∣late, of a Prince named Brecha••ius, the Father of an holy off-spring, whose twenty four Daughters were all of them Saints) is a County neither very large, nor greatly to be prai∣sed or disliked of, whose bounds upon the North is parted from Radn••r with the Rivers Clarwen and Wye: the West lyeth butted upon by Cardigan and Caermarden-shires: the South is confined by Glamorgan: and the East with Monmouth and Radnor-shires, is wholly bound.

(2) The length of this Shire from North to South, betwixt L••anuthel and I••tradgunles, are twenty eight English miles; and her breadth from East to West, extended betwixt Frentisso and Elywell, are twenty miles; the whole circumference, about one hundred and two miles.

(3) This County is full of Hills, and uneven for travel, which on the South part mount in such height that as Giraldus hath written, They make the Air much colder, and defend the Country from the excessive heat of the Sun, where by a certain natural wholsomness of Air maketh it most temperate: and on the East side the Mountains of Tolgar and Ewias do as it were fore fence the same. Among which, there arise and run so many fruitful Springs, that their Vallies are thereby made most fertile, yielding in plenty both Corn and Grass.

(4) The ancient Inhabitants and possessors of this Shire, with the rest in this South Tract, were the Silures, much spoken of, and great opposers to the Romans, whose Countries were first made subject by Iulius Frontinus, who besides the valour of the enemy, had to struggle with the Mountains and Straits, as Tacitus tells us; neither any more hard, we may well say, than them of this Shire; where∣of

one in the South, and three miles from Brecknock, is of such height and operation, as is uncredi∣ble: and were it not, that I have witness to affirm what I shall speak, I should blush to let the re¦port thereof pass from my Pen: In my Perambulation in these parts, remaining in Br••cknock to ob∣serve the site of that Town, the Aldermen or chief Seniors thereof regarding my pains with friendly and courteous entertainments, at my departure, no less than eight of them, that had been Bailiffs of the Town, came to visite me; where they reported upon their Credit and Trials, that from the top of that Hill, in the Welsh called Mounch-denny, or Cadier Arthur, they had oftentimes cast from them▪ and down the North-East Rock, their Cloaks, Hats, and Staves, which notwithstanding would ne∣ver fall, but were with the Air and Wind still returned back, and blown up: neither, said they, will any thing descend from that Cliffe being so cast, unless it be stone or some Metalline substance: affirm∣ing the cause to be the Clouds, which are seen to rack much lower than the top of that Hill. As strange Tales are told of the Mear Llynsavathan, two miles by East from Brecknock, which at the break∣ing of her frozen Ice, maketh a fearful sound like unto Thunder. In which place, as is reported, some∣times stood a fair City, which was swallowed up in an Earthquake, and resigned her Stone-Walls unto this deep and broad Water: whither unto this day leadeth all the waies in this Shire: which, as lear∣ned Camd••n conjectureth, might be that Loventrium, which Ptolomy in this Tract placeth; and the more confirmed by the Rivers name adjoyning, being also called Lovenny, which River also passeth tho∣row this Mear without any mixture of her waters, as by the colour thereof is well perceived, which glideth through it with the same stream, and no greater than wherewith she first entred in.

(5) The Towns for Commerce, are Hay, Bealt, and Brecknock, two of them unfortunate of their former greatness, whom Wars and sedition have defaced and cast down. Hay upon Wye and Dulas, pleasant for situation, in the Rebellion of Owen Glendowerdy, was diswalled, depopulated, and burnt, in whose foundations for new repairs, many Roman Coyns have been found: and thereby thought to

be the Seat of their Legions: and Buelth, now Bealt, though of good frequency, yet not so great as when Ptolomy observed her position for graduation, who calleth it Buleum Silurum, neither when it with the Country was possessed by Aurelius Ambrosius, by whose permission Pascentius the Son of Vorti∣ger ruled all, as Ninius writeth; nor yet as of later times, when Leolin the last Prince of the Britains, was therein betrayed and slain.

(6) Brecknock the Shire-Town, for Buildings and Beauty retaineth a better regard, whose Walls in Oval-wise are both strong and of good repair, having three Gates for Entrance, with ten Towers for defence, and is in circuit six hundred and forty paces about, upon whose West part a most sumptuous and stately Castle is seated, the like whereof is not commonly seen, whose decayes approaching do increase her ruins daily, and in the end is feared will be her fall. This Town is seated upon the meeting of two Rivers, Houthy and Vske, whose yearly Government is committed to two Bailiffs, fifteen Alder∣men, two Chamberlains, two Constables, a Town-Clerk, and two Sergeants their Attendants, having the Poles Elevation in 52, 21 minutes of Latitude, and for Longitude is placed in the 16 and 32 mi∣nutes, as the Mathematicians do measure them.

(7) This Shire is strengthened with nine Castles divided into six Hundreds, wherein are seated three Market-Towns, and sixty one Parish-Churches.

CARDIGAN-SHIRE.

CHAPTER. V.

CARDIGAN-SHIRE, (in the Welsh called Sire Aber-Tivi) is parted on the North from Merioneth-shire with the River Dovi; by the Plinillimon Hills from Montgomery-shire in part of her East; and the rest from Brecknock shire, with the water Towy; and with Ty∣vy altogether on the South from Caermarden-shire: The West is wholly washed with the Irish-Sea.

(2) The Form thereof is Horn-like, bowing compass, long and narrow, and growing wider stll to∣wards the North: so that from Cardigan, the Shire-Town and uttermost point in the South, unto the River Dovi, her farthest North-bounder, are thirty two miles: and from the head of Clarwan in the East, to Abersthwyth on her West, the broadest part in the Shire, are only fifteen: the whole in circum∣ference is one hundred and three miles.

(3) The Air is open and somewhat piercing; The Soil is hilly, and (Wales like) uneven: yet more plain and champion towards the Sea, than in the East or North of the Land. For besides that great and high Hill called Plinillimon, a continual range of lesser doth shoot along, yielding in their Vallies both goodly rich Pastures, and very large Pools, which being assisted with Springs from the Rocks, do branch themselves as Veins in the Body, and make fruitful their passages un∣to the Sea. In Tyuy one of these, as Giraldus hath written, the Beaver hath been found, a Crea∣ture living both by Land and Water, whose Stones the Physicians hold in great price. His fore••eet are like unto a Dog, but the hinder whole skinned, as is the Goose: the Dog-like serve him on shore for to run; and the Goose-like as Oars give him swift motion in swimming; his Tail broad and gristly, he useth as a Stern, wherewith on the sudden he can divert his swi••t floating course.

But this creature in these parts a long time hath not been seen, whose room we may well say the Salmon hath possessed, who still coveting fresh-water-Rivers, at their down-right falls useth this policy: He bendeth himself backward, and taketh his Tail in his Mouth, and with all his strength unloosing his circle on the sudden (as a Lath let go) mounteth up before the fall of the Stream; whereupon such water-falls are called the Salmons-leap: and in these Rivers many such Salmons are caught.

(4) The Commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattel, Sea-Fowl, and Fish; Corn sufficient, but of Woods some scarcity; and at the Head of Istwyd are certain Veins of Lead, a Merchandize of no mean regard or wealth.

(5) The ancient People that possessed this Province, were the Dim••tae, by Ptolomy branched thorow the Tract of Caermarden, Pembroke, and this Shire; who in their struglings against the Romans, did not a little rely upon Caractacus their most warlike King, (from whose name, though unlikely, some will have the Shire called Cardigan) yet lastly felt the fortune of subjection with the rest, when Iulius Frontinus warred with these Mountains. Scarce had the Normans setled their Kingdom in Britain, but that they a••••ailed this County, as well to enjoy so fair a Possession, as to secure those Seas from any Invasion against them: so that Rufu•• first wrested from the Welshmen the Maritime Coasts, and Henry the first gave the whole County to Gilbert de Clare.

(6) This Gilbert fortified Cardig••n, and Shire-Town, with a Wall and strong Castle, whose aged Lineaments do to this day shew the industry both of Nature and Art: for the Town is seated upon a steep bank, her South side guarded with the deep River Tyvy, and passable no way but by a bridge under the Castle. The Walls take the advantage of the rising Rocks, and circulate the Town even round about. The Castle is higher built upon a Rock, both spacious and fair, had not Storms impaired her beauty, and time left her carkass a very Anatomy. The Walls range as thou feest,

and are indifferent for repair, having three ways for entrance, and contain in compass six hundred and fourscore paces: whose position for Latitude is in the degree 52, 33 minutes from the North-pole, and for Longitude from the first West point by M••rc••tor, in the degree 15 and 10 minutes.

(7) This Shire, as it is little in circuit, so accordingly is besprinkled with Townships, whereof four only have the Trade of Markets: neither find I other remembrance of religious Foundations, but at Cardigan, Istradfleet, and at Llan B••dern Vaur, where sometimes was seated an Episcopal See, which (as Hoveden writeth) was decayed many years since, when the people had wickedly stain their Pastor. And yet Llan-Devi-brevi, built and so called in memory of the most famous David Bishop of Menevia, was in great esteem, where in a frequent Synod there holden, he refuted the Pelagian-Heresie, sprung up a∣gain in Britain, both by the authority of holy Scriptures, and also by miracle, as is reported, while the earth whereon he stood and preached, rose up unto a certain height under his Feet.

(8) The Shires Division, for businesses belonging either to the Crown or Common-wealth, is into five Hundreds, wherein are seated four Market-Towns, and sixty four Parish-Churches for Gods Divine and daily Service.

CAERMARDEN-SHIRE.

CHAPTER VI.

CAERMARDEN-SHIRE, so called from the chief Town Caermarden, lyeth bordered upon the South, with Cardigan-shire; upon her East, by Brecknock and Glamorgan-shires; upon the South, with a Bay of the British-Seas; and upon the West with Pembroke-shire.

(2) The form of this County is long, and shooteth it self from the South-West into the North and by East, betwixt whose further bounds are thirty five English miles, and in her broadest part twenty miles; the whole in circumference about one hundred and two miles.

(3) This Shire is not altogether so pestred with Hills as her bordering Neighbors are: and those that she hath, neither so high nor so thick, and therefore is better for Corn and Pasturage, yea and in Woods also, so that for Victuals this County is very well stored, which the Stomach doth as well digest, the Air being wholsome, temperate, and pleasing.

(4) Anciently these parts were possessed by the Dimetree, as Ptolomy, Gildas, and Ninius do name them: though Pliny holds opinion that they were part of the Silures, with whom no doubt they were subdued to the Romans yoke by Iulius Frontinus, when he struggled with the Rocky Hills in those Southern parts. And this County is accounted by Writers to be the very strength of South-Wales. In the West thereof, at Kilmanlloid (as it should seem) their Legions were kept, where lately an earth∣en Pot hoarded with store of Roman-Coyns, was by the Spade digged up, being stamped upon im∣based Silver, from the time of Commodus unto the first Tribuneship of Gordian the third, which fell in the year of Christ two hundred forty three: and amongst these were the Coyns of Helvius Pertinax, Marcus Opellius, Antonius Diadumenianus, Iulius Veru•• Maximu••, the Son of Maximus, of Coelius

Balbinus, of Clodius Pupienus, of Aquilla Severa, the wife of Heliogabalus, and of Soll. Barbia Orbiana•• pieces rarely found.

(5) The Commodities of this Shire chiefly consist in Cattel, Pit-coal, Fowl, and Sea-Fish, whereof the Salmon is common among them, and that of such greatness and plenty, as no place is better furni∣shed therewith than the Shire-Town Caermarden is.

(6) Which Town by Ptolomy is called Maridunum; by Antonin•• the Emperour, Muridunum; by the Britains, Caerfridhin; and by us, Caermarden. It is pleasantly seated upon the South-West side of the River Tovy, that runneth through the midst of this Shire, and falleth South from hence into the British Sea, where before-times was a convenient Haven for Ships arrivage, but now is sore pe∣stred with Sands and Shelves▪ notwithstanding some small Vessels ascend up the River, even unto the Bridge of this Town, which is fairly built of Free-stone. And over the same, upon a hanging Rock, standeth a very large Castle, from whose Stone-wall another intermingled with Brick rangeth about the Town, being in circuit one thousand and four hundred paces. The Inhabitants of this place do not a little glory of their Merlin, who (as they say) was therein born the Son of a bad Angel, or of an Incubus Spirit, the Britains great Apollo, whom Geffery ap Arthur would rank with the South-saying Seer, or rather with the true Prophets themselves: being none other than a meer Se∣ducer and Phantastical Wizard: which howsoever Alani de Insulis in his Commentaries hath labour∣ed to unlock those dark and hidden Similies, wherewith his Book is pestred and full, yet was it not without cause forbid the reading by the Council of Trent, as vain, and not worthy of Countenance or Credit.

At the entrance of the Normans this Town was brought under their obedience, and for a long time was distressed with the Calamities of War, yet afterwards was made by the English Princes the Chancery and Exchequer of all South••Wales: And at this day is yearly governed by a Maior, who

ever after is an Alderman and Iustice of the Peace, two Sheriffs elected out of sixteen Burgesses, all of them in Scarlet, a Sword-Bearer, a Town-Clerk, and two Sergeants with Maces: from whence the Pole is raised 52 degrees 15 minutes in Latitude, and for Longitude is in the degree 15 and 30 minutes from the first point in the West, according to Mercator.

(7) East from this place are the ruines of Carreg-Castle, which stood mounted on a high Hill, under the which many Vaults and spacious Caves far into the ground are seen, wherein is thought the People unable to ••ight, were therein secured in time of their Wars. Where also is a Well (take the report from Giraldus, who writeth it) that in this place twice in four and twenty hours ••bbing, and twice flow∣ing resembleth the unstable motions of the main Sea.

(8) This Shire is watred with twenty eight Rivers and Rivelets of name, strengthned with ten Ca∣stles, traded in six Market-Towns, divided into six Hundreds, wherein are seated fourscore and seven Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Glamorganshire

GLAMORGAN Shire

GLAMORGAN-SHIRE.

CHAPTER VII.

GLAMORGAN-SHIRE, as some think, named from Prince Morgan the possessor thereof, or according to others, is taken from Morgan an Abbey, founded by William Earl of Glocester, upon the Sea-shoar in the South of this Shire, lyeth bounded upon that part altogether with the British-Sea, the West by Logor is parted from Caermarden-shire; the North butteth upon the County of Brecknock; and the East by Remney is divided from Monmouth.

(2) The form of this Shire groweth still wider from her West-point, spreading her broadest touch in the East, betwixt which extreams I find by measure to be well-near forty English miles, and from North to South, not altogether twenty miles: the whole in circumference, about one hundred and twelve miles.

(3) The Air is temperate, and gives more content to the mind, than the Soil doth fruit or ease unto Travellers. The Hills being high and very many, which from the North notwithstanding are lessened as it were by degrees; and towards the Sea-coasts, the Countrey becometh somewhat plain, which part is the best, both for plenty of Grain, and populous of Inhabitants. The rest all Mountain, is repleni∣shed with Cattel, which is the best means unto wealth that this Shire doth afford; upon whose Hills you may behold whole Heards of them feeding; and from whose Rocks most clear springing waters thorow the Vallies trickling, which sportingly do pass with a most pleasant sound, and did not a little revive my wearied spirits among those vast Mountains, imployed in their search: whose infancy at first ad∣mitted an easie step over; but grown unto strength, more boldly forbad me such passage, and with a more stern countenance held on their Iourney unto the British-Seas; and Ta••e among these is accoun∣ted for a chief.

(4) Upon whose fall, and East-bank, the fairest Town of all South-Wales is seated, the Britains Caerdid, the English Caerdiffe, which Fitz-Haimon fortified with a Wall and Castle, in the Reign of King Rufus, when he and his Norman-Knights had overcome Rhese the Prince of these parts, and thrust out Iustine from his lawful possession. This Town he made his own Seat and Court of Iustice, enjoyning his Consorts to give Aid to this honour, and to hold their Portions in Vassallage of him. Strong was the Castle, as by the trust therein reposed may well appear, where the youngest brother Bea••clark kept Captive the eldest Curthose, both of them Sons to the Conquerour, the space of twenty six years. This Castle is large, and in good repair, whence the Town-Wall went both South and East to the Rivers side, thorow which, four Gates enter into the four Winds, and contain in com∣pass nine hundred and twenty paces; and along the River (a sure defence) upon her West-side, three hundred more; so that the Town containeth in circuit twelve hundred and fourscore paces. But as the Tave is a friend to the Town, in making a Key for arrivage of shipping; so is she a foe to S. Ma∣ries Church in the South, with undermining her Foundations, and threatning her fall. The Town is governed by a Mayor, yearly elected out of twelve Aldermen, assisted with other twelve Burgesses, a Town-Clerk, four Constables, and two Sergeants with Maces: whose site is observed from the North-Star to lie in the degree of Latitude 51 and 49 scruples, and from the ••irst point in the West, 16 and 53 scruples.

(5) In the same graduation almost is sited the City Landaf, wherein is a Castle and Cathedral Church, dedicated to S. Telean, Bishop of the same, without any other memorable matter worthy the speaking of.

(6) But things of strange Note are these, by the report of Giraldus, who affirmeth that in a Rock or Cliffe upon the Sea-side, and Island Barry, lying near the South-East point of this County, is heard out of a litttle chink (let him take heed what he faith) the noise as it it were of Smiths at their work; one whiles

••he blowing of Bellows to increase the heat, then the str••aks of the Hammer, and sound of the Anvil; some∣tim••s the noise of the Grind stone in grinding of Iron Tools; then the hissing Sparks of Steel••gads, as they flie from their ••eating, with the puffing noise of Flames in a Furnace. And whether this is the place whereof Clemens Alexandrinus speaketh, I de••ermine not; where in his Writings he hath these words; They that have recorded Histories (saith he) do say, that in the Isle of Britain, there is a certain Hole or Cave under th•• bottom of an Hill, and on the top thereof a gaping Chink, into the which when the Wind is gathered, and tossed to and fro in the Womb or concavity thereof, there is heard above, a sound of Cymbals: for the Wind being driven back from his hole, is forced to make a loud sound as her vent.

(7) More Westward from hence, upon the River Ogmore, and neer unto Newton, in a sandy plain about an hundred paces from Severne, there springeth a Well, though not of the clearest wa∣ter, where at the flowing and fulness of the Sea, can hardly any water be gotten; but at the Ebb and Fall o•• Tide it walloweth up amain. The cause may be, as Polibius reports of the like at Cadys; Wherein the windy air, when it is deprived of his ••onted issues, forcibly returneth, shutting and stopping up the pa••sages and veins of the Spring, whereby the waters are kept in. But contrariwise when the surface thereof is void and empty of water, the veins of the Source or Spring are unstopped and set free, which then boileth up in great abundance.

(8) And upon the same Shoar more North and by West, on the top of an Hill called Minyd-Marga••, is erected a Monument inscribed with a strange Character, and as strange a conceit held thereof by the by-dwellers whose opinions are possessed, that if any man read the same, he shall shortly after die.

This Shire, as it is the furthest Coast of South-Wales, and lay open to forrain Invasion; so was it fortified with twenty five stronger Castles, whereof times and storms have devoured the most: such were Barry, Saint D••neits, Denispowis, Morlashe, Meneshe, Logh••r, Llanddeny, Llanquian, Oxwich,

Oystermouth, Ogmor, Pile, Porkery, Pennarth, Winston, Newcastle, Caersly, Coche, Peullyn, Kethligar••••, Kenfeage, Tallavan, Treer, and Cothy.

Neither was the County so ill seated for sufficiency of Life, or barren of Grain, but that therein were planted places for divine piety: such were Neath, Margan, and Caerdif, besides the Episcopal See of Landaf, which last still remaineth; the other three suppressed among the fall of their like, un∣der King Henry the eight.

This Shire is divided into ten Hundreds, wherein are seated six Market-Towns, and one hundred and eighteen Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Monmouthshire

Mounmouth Shire

MONMOUTH-SHIRE.

CHAPTER VIII.

MONMOUTH-SHIRE, from Monmouth Town, and that from Monnowe-water bearing name, is altogether inclosed on the North, and is separated from Hereford-shire with the same River, upon the East both it and Wye divides this County from Glocester-shire. The South-side is wholly wa••hed by the Severne-Sea, and some of her We••t part by Rempney is parted from Glamorgan, and the rest lyeth bordered up∣on by Brecknock shire.

(2) The form thereof is Scallop-wise, both long and broad, shooting her North point to Llantony, and her South to the fall of Rempney, betwixt which two are twenty four English miles: and from Chep••tow East to Blanagwent West, are not altogether nineteen miles: the whole in circuit draweth somewhat neer to seventy seven miles.

(3) The Air is temperate, healthful and clear, the Soil is hilly, woody and rich, all places fruitful, but no place barren. The Hills are grased upon by Cattel and Sheep, the Vallies are laden with Corn and Grass, never ungrateful of the Husbandmans pains, nor makes frustrate his hope of expected in∣crease; whose Springs abundantly ris••ng in this County with many Streams, do fatten the Soil even from side to side.

(4) Anciently the Silures inhabited this Shire, whose chief City by the Emperour Antonine is named Venta Silurum, by the Welsh-Caer••••ent, and was by Tathaie the British Saint, made an Academy, and a divine place for Worship. So likewise Caer-lion now, once Is••a, was where the second Roman Le∣gion called Augusta lay, as by their Coins, Altars, Tables, and Inscriptions there found, and daily therein digged up, doth evidently appear.

By the report of Giraldm, in this City was the Court of great Arthur, whither the Roman Embassa∣dors resorted unto him; and as Alexander Elsebiensis writeth, therein was a School of two hundred Philosophers, skilful in Astronomy and other Arts. Which is the more credible, for that Amphibalus, S. Albant Instructer, was therein born, and Iulius and Aaron, two noble Proto-Martyrs of great Bri∣tain, in this City received the Crown of Martyrdom, where their Bodies were also interred. But as all things find their fatal period, so this City for beauty, circuit, and magnifical respect, is laid in the ruines of her own decay: neither may any more lament the loss of glory than Monmouths Castle, which Captive-like doth yield to conquering Time. Her down-cast Stones from those lofty Turrets do shew what beauty once it bare, standing mounted round in compass, and within her Walls another Mount, whereon a Tower of great height and strength is built, which was the birth place of our Conquering Henry, the great Triumpher over France, but now decayed, and from a Princely Castle, is become no better than a regardless Cottage. In this Town a beautiful Church built with three Isles is remaining, and at the East-end a most curiously built (but now decayed) Church stands, called the Monks Church: In the Monastery whereof, our great Antiquary Geoffery, surnamed Monmouth, and ap Ar∣t••ur, wrote his History of Great Britain: whose pains as they were both learned and great, so have they bred great pains among the learned both to defend and to disprove. The Towns situation is pleasant and good, seated betwixt the Rivers Monnow and Wye: three Gates yet stand, besides that Tower or Lock of the Bridge, and a Trench or Tract of Wall running betwixt them on each side down to the River, containing in circuit about eight hundred paces. The Town is in good repair, and well fre∣quented, governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs, fifteen Common-Co••••ellors, a Town-Clerk, and two Sergeants for their Attendance. It is in Latitude removed from the Equator 52 degrees and 8 mi∣nutes, and from the West point of Longitude is set in the degree 17, 36 minutes.

Religious Houses erected and suppressed in this Shire, for greatest account have been in Caerlion, Chepstow, Gold-cliff, Monmouth and Llantony; which last stood so solitary, and among Hills, that the Sun was not seen to shine there, but only betwixt the hours of one and three.

This Shire is strengthned with fourteen Castles, traded with six Market-Towns, divided into six Hundreds, wherein are situated one hundred twenty and seven Parish-Churches, and is not accounted among the Welsh-shires, being subdued by Henry the Second, who passing the Nant-Pe••-carne, a small Brook and of no danger, yet held fatal by the Welsh, over credulous to a Prophecy of Merlyn Sylve∣ster the British Apollo, who had fore-shewed that when a stout and freckled fac'd King (such as Henry was) should pass over that Ford, then the power of the Welshmen should be brought under; whereby their stout courage was soon abated, and the whole County the sooner in subjection to the English.

[illustration] map of Montgomeryshire and Merionethshire

Montgomeri¦e Merionidh Shires

MOUNTGOMERY-SHIRE.

CHAPTER IX.

MOUNTGOMERY-SHIRE, in the British speech called Siretrefaldwin, and that of the principal Town Mountgomery, lyeth bounded upon the North with Denbigh-shire, upon the East with Shrop-shire, on the South with Radnor and Cardigan-shires, and on the West with Merioneth shire.

(2) In form it somewhat resembleth a Pear or Pine-apple, as it were growing out of the West, and rising thence with many high Hills and plentiful Springs, which water and make fruit∣ful the Soil every where: whose searching rills with a longing desire haste ever forward to find an in∣crease, and to augment their growth into a bigger body, whereof the Severne is the chief, and the se∣cond River in the Land: whose Head rising from the spired Mountain Plynillimon, runneth not far without the Receits of other Rivolets into her Stream, and with many Wings doth sport her self tho∣row all the East-part of this Shire.

(3) That this River took her name from Abren, the beautiful base daughter of Locrinus, begotten out of Wedlock upon Estrildis the daughter of Humber the Scythian King, that invaded this Land, and both of them drowned in this River by Guendolena King Locrinus surviving Widow: let Geoffrey relate, and Poets enlarge, whereof one among them in good account, thus writeth:

—In flumen praaecipitatur Abren, Nomen Abren fluvio de Virgine, nomen eidem Nomine corrupto, deinde Sabrina datur.

Into this stream fair Abren headlong-cast, Gave name of Abren to those waters vast, Corruptly call'd Sabrina now at last,

(4) The River maketh the East part of this Shire for fruitfulness to be compared with most of the Land, and to exceed any other Shire in Wales: the West-side is more hilly and less inhabited, yet sure∣ly those mountains breed innumerable of Cattel, especially of Horses, whose Portraiture for making and incomparable swiftness, Giraldus Cambrensis Arch-Deacon of Brecknock, doth greatly commend.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants that were seated in Gwineth and Powisland, whereof this Shire was a part, were to the Romans known by the name of ORDOVICES, a puissant and couragious Na∣tion, whose Hearts and Hills held them the longest free from the Yoke of Subjection, either of the Romans or English: for unto the daies of Domitian, they kept plea with the Romans, and were not brought to the will of the English before the Reign of King Edward the first. Those ORDOVICES inhabited the Counties of Mountgomery, Merioneth, Caernarvan, Denbigh, and Flint, which are of us called now North-Wales, a people generous and of affable conditions, goodly for feature, fair of com∣plexion, couragious of mind, courteous to strangers, and that which is most commendable, most true and loyal to the English Crown.

Towns for Trades and Commerce in this County are six: the chiefest thereof and Shire-Town is Mountgomery, very wholsome for Air, and pleasant for situation, upon an easie ascent of an Hill, and upon another far higher mounted, stands a fair and well-repaired Castle, from the East-Rock whereof, the Town hath been walled, as by some part yet standing, and the Tract and Trench of the rest even unto the North-side of the said Castle, may evidently be seen: whose graduation for

Latitude is placed in the degree 53, and for Longitude 17, the lines cutting each other in the site of this Town.

This Town hath lately received the Honour and Title of an Earldome, whereof Philip Herbere the second Son of Henry Earl Pembroke, was created the first, in Anno 1605. And the Shire divided into seven Hundreds, wherein are seated six Market-Towns, and forty seven Parish-Churches.

MERIONETH-SHIRE.

CHAPTER. X.

MERIONETH-SHIRE, which the Britains call Sire Verioneth, and in Latine Mervia; is bordered upon the North by Car••arvon and Denbigh-shires, upon the East with Mountgomery, upon the South by the River Dowy, is parted from Cardigan-shire, and the West side altogether washed with the Irish-Seas, whose rage with such vehemency beateth against her Banks, that it is thought and said, some quantity of the Land hath been swallowed up by those Seas.

(2) In form this Shire somewhat resembleth a Welsh-Harp, though small is the Musick that to her Inhabitants she makes, being the roughest, and most unpleasant to see to (as Giraldus their own Histo∣rian writeth) in all Wales. The Air for great pleasure, nor Soil for great profit, I cannot greatly commend, unless it be for the many and mighty great winds, that for the most part therein do rage, and the spired Hills clustred together so near and so high, as the same Author affirmeth, that Shep∣herds upon their tops falling at odds in the morning and challenging the Field for fight, before they can come together to try out the quarrel, the day will be spent, and the heat of their fury shut up with their sleep.

(3) These mountains formerly did abound with Wolves, for whose avoidance Edgar the peace∣able, did impose (as Malmesbury writeth) a yearly Tribute of three hundred Wolves, upon Ludwall Prince of that Country, whereby in three years space they were quite destroyed: and now their faces are covered with fruitful Flocks of Sheep, besides Neat and other Cattel that therein abun∣dantly do grase, w••erein the only riches of this Shire doth consist: for by reason of this uneven∣ness

of the Soil and Rocks so near the face of the Earth, the Plough cannot be drawn, nor the Corn prosper, which some have imputed to the idleness of the Inhabitants, wherein they have been greatly wronged.

(4) These People are a part of the Ordovices, of whom we have spoken, who by the advantage of these Mountains held out with the longest against the Romans, and their Necks not brought under the yoke of Bondage before the daies of King Edward the first; since when they have attempted to cast off their subjection to the English, upon those stirs raised by Owen Glendover, who having been a Fa∣vorite of King Richard the second, and discontented by King Henry the fourth, in a quarrel with the Lord Grey of Rut••in, that intruded upon his demains, quarrelled with the King, and entred into open Rebellion and Confederacy with all other his Rebels, drawing the Welsh-men wholly to his side, in hope to have had Princes restored of their own blood: and he maintained the same with wonderful pride, policy, and obstinacy for a long time, until his Confederates, Followers and Favorites, and his own courage, credit, and maintenance, were brought so low by that powerful King, that in the end he peri∣shed for very want of Food.

(5) Their Towns are not many, neither those that they have of any stately Buildings, whereof Bala, Dolgelhe, and Harlech are the Markets. By Bala in the North-East of this County, in the Welsh L••integid, in English, Pimble-mear, a great Pool of Water doth drown at least threescore Acres of ground: whose nature is, as the report doth pass, that the High-land Floods, though never so great, cannot make her swell bigger by their receits▪ but if the Air be troubled with over great blasts and tempests of Winds, she, in as great a rage, riseth and passeth her Banks, as if she would encoun∣ter that enemy in fight. Into the South whereof the two headed Dee with a pretty sharp stream en∣treth, and through the same glideth without any mixture of the same water, as the Inhabitants be∣lieve: more strongly conceited in their opinion, for that the Salmon, usually taken in Dee, is never

found in that Pool; and the Fish called Guiniad, bread in that Mear, never is seen in the River D•••• South thence near Dolgelhe, in a lower Hill, a great Rampire of Stone and compass is seen, and hath been some fortification or defence in War: which whilst we were curious to find out some instructions thereof, by report this only we learned, that it was called Caddoryrita Dr••n, according to the name of her neighbour and far higher Hill.

(6) Upon the West and Sea-shore of this Shire, Harlech a Market and Mayor-Town standeth bleak enough and barren, but only for Fowl and Fish; Houses not many, neither curiously built, wherein ••tandeth a little Chappel decayed and without use, in which lieth buried Sir Richard Thimbleby, an Eng∣lish Knight, who for the delight he took in that game, removed his abode from a far better Soil. Here also standeth a most strong and beautiful Castle, mounted upon a Hill, and with a double Bulwark walled about, commanding the Sea, and passage of entrance of such as seek to invade the Coast: and surely a great pity it is to see so fair a Work fall to decay: the Constable whereof by Patent is ever the Mayor of this Town; near unto which are two great Inlets of Seas, which at low water may be pa••sed upon the Sands with Guides. Upon whose Shore, as upon the Sea Coasts in this County, abundance of Herrings are caught, for which cause they are much frequented in the season of the year, by many People from divers Countries.

(7) This Town being the chiefest of the Shire, The Pole shall be elevated only from thence, whose height for Latitude standeth in the degree 53, 29 minutes, and for Longitude in the 15, 47 minutes. The whole being bivided into six Hundreds, wherein are feared thirty seven Parishes-Churches.

[illustration] map of Denbighshire and Flintshire

DENBIGH and FLINT discribed

DENBIGH-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XI.

DENBIGH-SHIRE, called in Welsh, Sire Denbigh, retiring more from the Sea within the Country, on this side of the River Conwey shooteth Eastward in one place as far as to the River Dee: on the North, first the Sea, (for a small space) and then Flint-shire en∣compasseth it: on the West, Caernarvan and Merioneth shire: on the East, Cheshire and Shropshire; and on the South, Mountgomery shire.

(2) The form thereof is long, growing wider still towards the North-West, and narrower towards the East. It is in length from East to West, one and thirty miles; and in breadth from North to South, seventeen miles: in the whole circuit and circumference, one hundred and fourteen miles.

(3) The Air is very wholsome and pleasant, yet bleak-enough, as exposed to the winds on all sides, and the high Hills, wherewith it is in many places environed, long retaining the congealed Snow. The tops whereof, in the Summer time, are the Harvest-Mens Almanacks, by the rising of certain Vapours thereon in the Mornings, and foreshew a fair Day ensuing.

(4) The Soil is but barren towards the West-part: yet the middle, where it lieth flat in a Valley, is most fertile. The East-side, when it is once past the Valley, findeth Nature to be a very sparing nig∣gard of her favours: but next unto Dee it feeleth a more liberal extent of her blessings. The West part is but here and there inhabited, and mounteth up more than the other with bare and hungry Hills; yet the leanness of the Soil (where the Hills settle any thing flatting) hath been now a good while begun to b•• overcome by the diligent pains and careful industry of the Husbandmen;

for they parting away the upper Coat of the Earth into certain Turffs, with a broad kind of Spade, pile them up artificially on heaps, and fire them, so as being turned into Ashes, and thrown upon the ground so pared, they fructifie the hungry barrenness and sterility of Soil, and make the Fields bring forth a kind of Rie or Amell-Corn, in such plenty, as is hardly to be believed.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ord••vices, who being also named Ordevices, or Ordovicae: a puissant and couragious People, by reason they kept wholly in a mountainous place, and took heart even of the Soil it self: for they continued longest free from the Yoke both of Roman, and also of English dominion. They were not subdued by the Romans, before the dayes of the Empe∣rour Domitian (for then Iulius Agricol•• conquered almost the whole Nation) nor brought under the command of the English, before the Reign of King Edward the First; but lived a long time in a law∣less kind of liberty, as bearing themselves bold upon their own magnanimity, and the strength of the Country.

(6) The Mountains of this County yield sufficiency of Neat, Sheep, and Goats. The Valleys in most places are very plenteous of Corn, especially Eastward on this side, betwixt the Rivers of Alen and Dee; But the most Westerly part is Heathy, and altogether barren. The heart of the Shire shews it self beneath the Hills, in a beautiful and pleasant Vale, reaching seventeen miles in length from South to North, and five miles, or thereabouts, in breadth, and lieth open only toward the Sea. It is environed on every side with high Hills, amongst which, the highest is Moillenly, on the top whereof is a warlike Fence with Trench and Rampier, and a little Fountain of clear Water. From these Hills the River Cluyd resorts unto this Vale, and from the very Spring-head (increased with Becks and Brooks) doth part it in twain, running through the midst of it; whereof in ancient time it was named Strat-Cluyd: for Marianus maketh mention of a King of the Strat-Cluyd of the W••lsh: And at this day it is com∣monly called Diffryn-Cluyd, that is, The Vale of Cluyd.

This thing is worthy observation, as a matter memorable, both for admiration and antiquity, that in the Parish of Lan-sanan within this Country, there is a place compass cut out of the main Rock by Mans hand, in the side of a Stony Hill, wherein there be four and twenty Seats to sit in, some less, some bigger, where children and young men, coming to seek their Cattel, use to sit, and to have their sports. And at this day they commonly call it Arthurs Round Table.

(7) Henry Lacy Earl of Lincoln, obtaining Denbigh by the Grant of King Edward the First, after the Conviction and Beheading of David Brother of Llewelin for High-Treason, was the first that fortified it with a Wall about, nor large in circuit, but very strong, and on the South-side with a fair Castle, strengthned with many high Towers. But he gave it over, and left the work unfinished, conceiving grief (as a sorrowful Father) that his only Son came to untimely death, and was downed in the Well thereof: The fame of this Town spreads it self far for repute, a•• being reckoned the most beautiful place in all North-Wales: and it is of no less report, for the Castle adjunct unto it is impregnable for forti∣fication. And this strange accident hapning there in the year 1575, deserves not to be omit••ed, being left as a continual remembrance of Gods merciful Providence and preservation at that time: that where by reason of great Earthquakes, many People were put into great ••ear, and had much harm done unto them both within and without their Houses, in the Cities of ••ork, Worcester, Glocester, Bristo••, Hereford, and in other Countries adj••cent, yet in the Shire-Hall of Denbigh the Bell was caused to Toll twice, by the shaking of the earth, and no hurt or hindrance at all either done or received. The go∣vernment of this Town is managed by two Aldermen, and two Bailiffs, who are yearly elected out of twenty five Burgesses, that are their assistants. It hath no Recorder, one Town-Clerk, and two Ser∣geants at Mace: and by observation of the Mathematicks, the Pole is elevated in the degree of Lati∣••ude 53, and 49 s••ruples, and from she first point in Longitude 16 and 45.

(8) This County with them of Flint and Carnarven-shires. are not divided by pricks into their

several hundreds, according to the rest of this work, the want of their particulars in the Parliament Roles so causing it, which for the good of these three Shires, I earnestly sought to have supplied from the Nomina Villarum, in their Sheriffs Books, and had promise of them that might easily have procured the same. But whether a fearless jealousie possessed their spirits, lest the riches of these Shires, by revealing such particulars▪ should be further sought into, I cannot say: yet this I have observed in all my Survey, that where least is to be had, the greatest fears are poss••ssed. Take these Shires therefore to be done as I could, and not as I would, that wish both the wealth of them all, and their esteem to be of bet∣ter regard by those that may do them good.

(6) This Shire then is divided into twelve Hundreds, for the readier ordering of businesses neces∣sary to the State of the Country; wherein are placed three Market-Towns, ••it for buying and selling, and other negotiations. It hath five Castles to defend her self, and to offend her enemies, and fifty seven Parishes for Gods Divine Service and Worship.

FLINT-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XII.

FLINT-SHIRE, stretching out in length, broad at one end, and narrow at another, is not much unlike in fashion to a Wedge, a piece of which is cut off by the meeti••g of Cheshire and Denbighshire, South-East in distance some four miles. It borders East-ward with part of Cheshire, from whence it is guarded in length with the River Dee unto the North, which parteth Worrall and Flint-shire, till you come to a little Island called Hellebree. Northward it is bounded with the Virginian-Sea: on the West, a little River, called Cluyd, parteth her and Den∣bighshire asunder: and on the South altogether by Shrop-shire.

(2) This Country is nothing mountainous, as other parts of Wales are, but rising gently all along the River Dee, makes a fair shew and prospect of her self to every eye that beholds her, as well upon the River, being in most places thereabouts four or five miles broad, as upon the other side thereof, being a part of Cheshire,

(3) The Air is healthful and temperate, without any foggy clouds or fenny vapours, saving that sometimes there ariseth from the Sea, and the River Dee, certain thick and smoaky seeming Mis••••, which nevertheless are not found hurtful to the Inhabitants, who in this part live long and health∣fully.

(4) The Clime is somewhat colder there than in Cheshire, by reason of the Sea, and the River that engi••ts the better part of her; by which, the Northern-winds, being long carried upon the Waters, blow the more cold; and that side of the Country upward, that lieth shoring unto the top, having nei••her shelter nor defence, receiveth them in their still power, and is naturally a Bulwark from their

violence unto her bordering Neighbours, that maketh the Snow to lie much longer there than on the other side of the River.

(5) The Soil bringeth forth plenty both of Corn and Grass, as also great store of Cattel, but they be little. To supply which defect, they have more by much in their numbers than in other places where they be bigger. Great store of Fish they take in the River of Dee, but little from the Sea, by reason they have no Havens or Creeks for Boats. No great store of Woods either there or in any o∣ther part of Wales are found, it having been a general plague unto all the Country ever since the head-strong Rebellions of their Princes and great Men against the Kings of England, that (in time) took away the principal helps of their Innovations, by cutting down their Woods, whereof in this Shire there hath heretofore been great plenty. Fruits are scarce, but Milk, Butter and Cheese plenty, as al∣so store of Honey, of the which they make a pleasant Wine, in colour like (in taste not much unlike) unto Muskadine, which they call Metheglin. Yea, and in the days of Giraldus Cambrensis, near the place now called Holy-Well, was a rich Mine of Silver, in seeking after which, men pierced and pried into the very bowels of the earth.

(6) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordovices, a sturdy People against the Ro∣mans, but now most kind and gentle towards the English, and indeed make much of all Srangers, ex∣cept they be crossed: and then they are the contrary.

(7) Places of defence are the Castles of Flint, Hawarden, vulgarly Harden, Treer, Rudland, Mold, Yowley, and Hope: of which Flint and Harden are the two principal. The Castle of Flint, famous for the benefit it received from two Kings, and for the refuge and relief it gave unto the third. It was founded by Henry the Second, finished by Edward the First, and long after gave harbour and enter∣tainment to that noble, but unfortunate Prince, Richard the Second, coming out of Ireland, being within her Walls a free and absolute King, but no sooner without, but taken Prisoner by Henry Bul∣lingbroke,

Duke of Lancaster, losing at that time his liberty, and not long after his life. This standeth in the graduation of Latitude 53, 55 minutes, in Longitude 17.

For the Castle of Hawarden, no Record remains of the first Founder, but that it was held a long time by the Stewards of the Earls of Chester. Howbeit their resistances did not so genearally consist in the strength of their Castles and Fortifications, as in their Mountains and Hills, which in times of danger served as natural Bulwarks and Defences unto them against the force of Enemies. As was that which standeth in a certain strait set about with Woods, near unto the River Alen, called Coles-hull, that is, Coles-hill, where the English, by reason of their disordered multitude, not ranged in good array, lost the Field, and were defeated, when King Henry the Second had made as great preparation as might be to give Battel unto the Welsh, and the very Kings Standard was forsaken by Henry of Essex, who was Standard-Bearer to the Kings of England in right of inheritance.

(8) This Country hath many shallow Rivers in it, but none of fame and note, but Dee and Cluyde. Howbeit, there is a Spring not far from Rudland Castle, of great report and antiquity, which is ter∣med Fons Sacer, in English, Holy-Well, and is also commonly called S. Winefrids-Well; of whom an∣tiquity thus reporteth: That Winefrid a Christian Virgin, very fair and vertuous, was doated upon by a young lustful Prince or Lord of the Country, who not long able to rule his head-strong affecti∣ons, having many times in vain attempted and tried her chastity, both by rich gifts and large pro∣mises, could not by any means obtain his desires; he therefore (in a place of advantage) suddenly surprised and ravished her weak (yet resisting) body. After the deed done, the cruel Tyrant, to stop her cries and acclamations, slew her, and cut off her head; out of which place did suddenly arise a Spring that continueth to this day, carrying from the Fountain such a forcible stream and Current, as the like is not found in Christendom. Over the Head of the Spring there is built a Chappel of Free-stone, with Pillars curiously wrought and engraved, in the Chancel whereof, and

Glass-Window, the Picture of the Virgin is drawn, together with the memorial of her Life and Death, To this Fountain Pilgrims are accustomed to repair in their zealous, but blind devotion; and divers others resort to Bath in, holding firmly that the water is of much vertue.

There be many red Stones in the bottom of this Well, and much green Moss growing upon the sides: the superstition of the People holding that those red spots in the Stones were drops of the La∣dies Blood, which all the Water in the Spring can never wash away; and that the Moss about the Wall was her Hair, which though some of it be given to every Stranger that comes, yet it never wa∣steth. But howsoever this be carried for truth by the Tradition of time, the Moss it self smells exceed∣ing sweet.

There is also hard by Kilken (a small Village) within this County, a little Well of no great note, that at certain times riseth and falleth, after the manner of Sea-tydes.

(9) In the South-part of this Country, divided from the rest, is a place ( in some written Co∣pies of Antonine, called Bovium) which we now term Banchor, first a City, and afterwards a Mona∣stery of famous memory, and the first that is read of in the World: wherein (as Beda saith) were a great number of Monks, and them divided into seven Companies, every one having his several Ru∣ler assigned. None of these Companies had less than three hundred Persons devoted to Prayer, and to get living by their own labour, for themselves and the poor: although it hath long since been ut∣terly ruinate, so as now there is scarce seen the face and outward shew of a dead City or Mona∣stery. It hath only the names of two Gates remaining, one standing a mile di••tant from another, and betwixt which the River Dee now runneth, where are often-times found many pieces of Roman Coyn, and other tokens of antiquity. But of these shall be more mention made in the following History.

Another like Monastery, but of lesser account, stood in the Vale beneath Varish (a little City placed

by the Romans in the consines of this Shire and Denbigh-shire) and upon the Bank of Elwy and Cluyd. This the Britains call Llan-Elwy, of the River; the Englishmen, Asaph, of the Founder; and the Histo∣riographers, Asaphensis. It is more famoused for antiquity, than for building or bravery: for about the year 560 Kentigern Bishop of Glasco, being fled hither out of Scotland, placed here a Bishops See, and erected a Monastery, gathering together 663. in a Religious Brotherhood, whereof 300 that were un∣learned, gave themselves to husbandry, and to work within the Monastery; the rest to Prayer and Me∣ditations. When he returned into Scotland, he ordained Asaph, a godly and upright man, to be Go∣vernour over this Monastery, of whom it took the name, and is called Saint Asaphs.

Another Monastery of great account was at Basingwarke in this County, near unto which began that admirable Ditch drawn thence into the Month of Severne by King Offa, the Tract whereof I have expressed thorow this Shire, and will further speak thereof in the following History.

(10) This Shire is divided into five Hundreds, fortified with seven Castles, hath only one Market-Town, and twenty eight Parishes, in which there is a continual celebration of Divine Service.

[illustration] map of Anglesey and Caernarvonshire

ANGLESEY and CARNARVAN

ANGLESEY.

CHAPTER XIII.

ANGLESEY was in the time of the Romans called Mona, by the Britains Mon, and Ver-Mon, (that is) the Land of Mon, of the ancient England-Saxons Moneg: And at last, after the Englishmen had by their sharp and several assaults brought it under their rule, and became Lords thereof, it was termed Anglesey, as one would say, The Englishmens Island.

(2) For an Island it is, albeit it be severed from the Continent of Britain, but with a small and narrow straight of the River Menai, and on all other parts beaten upon with the surging and troublous Irish Sea, in which it lyeth somewhat square-wise not much different in length and breadth; being, where it reacheth out in length, from Beau-marish Eastward, to the utmost Promontory Westward, which we call Holy-head, twenty miles; and in breadth from Llambederick Northward, to the point of Menai Southward, seventeen miles; the whole circuit or circumference amounting towards seventy miles.

(3) The Air is reasonable grateful and healthful, and not generally subject to Diseases, excepting certain Agues at sometimes, which are occasioned by the Fogs and misty Exhalations, which arise from the Sea called Mare Virginium, with the which this Isle is encompassed.

(4) The Commodities that commend (or rather beautifie) this Country, are in Corn and Cat∣tel, wherewith it not only enricheth it self exceedingly, but sendeth out great Provision thereof to others to supply their defects, and although the ground may seem dry and stony, or unpleasant and nothing sightly, wherein for the outward quality it resembleth some other parts of Wales, that are not so fruitful, yet for the inward bounties of nature, it is far unlike; for above all the

Coasts of Wales it is most plentiful of Wheat, insomuch as by Giraldus Cambre••sis report, they are wont to say in Welsh, by way of a Proverb, Mon Mam Cambry, which is to say, Mon is the Mother of Wales; for that when other Countries Harvest fails round about, or their Provision is exhaust and drawn dry, this alone, like a provident and full breasted Mother is able to sustain the rest. Whereunto Nature most providently hath added another benefit serviceable and necessary to the former, in that the Country produceth also those kind of Stones which are called Molares, as of all other fittest to make Millstones or Grindstones. In some places also it yieldeth an Earth of Aluminous quality, out of which some not long since began to make Al••m and Copperose, who (like unflesht Souldiers) gave over their en∣terprise without further hope, because at first they saw it not answer their over-hasty expectations.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the Ordovines, mentioned before in the prece∣dent Provinces of Denbigh-shire, Flint-shire, and Carnarvon-shire. And this very Island was that an∣cient, and so much ennobled Seat of the British Dr••yds, who so amated the Army of Roman Invaders, as Tacitus reports, and as else-where we have related in the sixth Book and seventh Chapter of our en∣suing History.

(6) This Nation was attempted first by Paulinus Suetonius in the Reign of Nero, but brought under the Roman Empire by Iulius Agricola. When the Empire of the Romans in Britain began to decline and go downward, some out of Ireland entred into this Isle by stealth, and ••estled themselves there, as may be gathered by certain mounts of earth entrenched about, and yet to be seen, which they call the Irish-mens Cottages: as also by a place named of the Irish-men, y•• Hiericy G••idid, who did there (as is recorded) put the Britains to flight under the leading of Sirigus. The Norwegians also were often infestuous to this Island; but King Ethelreds Fleet, having in the year 1000 scoured the Seas round about this Isle, far exceeded all both Irish and Norwegian depopulations, for they was••ed the Coun∣try in all hostile manner.

(7) After this, two Hughs, both Normans, did greatly afflict this Island: The one being Earl of Chester, the other of Shrewsbury; at which very time Magnus the Norwegian arriving there, shot Hugh Earl of Shrewsbury through with an Arrow, and departed af••er he had ransacked the Island. It was afterwards grievousl•• infested by the Englishmen, who never gave over from time to time to invade it, until in the Reign o•• King Edward ••••e first, it was whol••y bro••ght under his subjection.

(8) The principal Town in this Isle is Beaumarish, which the said King Edward the First built in the East-side thereof, and for the f••••r situation, th••u••h in a Moo••ish-place, gave it the name which it now beareth, whereas in times past it was called Bonover; which ••e also fortified with a goodly Ca∣••tle.

(9) The Mayor is the chiefest Magistrate of the Town, who is yearly chosen, and hath the assi∣stance and help of two Bailiffs, two Sergeants at M••ce, and one Town-Clerk: by whose careful dili∣gence the affairs of this Town are orderly managed and commanded: whose Latitude is 54, and Lon∣gitude 15, 45 minutes.

(10) Not far from hence is Lhaanvais, in times past a fair Religious House of the Friers Minors, which although it be now in a manner rased out of memory, yet antiquity maketh mention that it hath been of great regard among the Kings of England, who h••ve sh••wed themselves very bountiful Patrons unto that Covent, both in respect of the sanctimonious life of such as conversed there, as also because there the Bodies of very eminent persons, as the Daughter of King Iohn, the Son of a King of the Danes, as likewise of many great Lords, Knights and Squires, were enterred, that were slain in the Wars again••t the Welsh, in the time of many illustrious Kings of England.

(11) This Isle is reckoned to have had anciently many Villag••s in it, even to the number of three hundred threescore and three; and the same even at this day is very well peopled.

The division of this Isle for disposition of affairs that belong either to the state of the Crown, or to the condition of the Country, is into six Hundreds: in which are seated two Market-Towns, and se∣venty four Parish-Churches for Gods Divine Honour and Worship.

CAERNARVON-SHIRE.

CHAPTER. XIV.

CAERNARVON-SHIRE, in Welsh, Sire Caer-ar-v••n, so called because it is just over against Anglesey, (which the Britains call Mon) and in composition was termed also Snowden-Forrest, before Wales was laid into Shires; the North-side whereof and the West butteth upon the Irish-Sea, the South-side is inclosed with Merioneth, and the East with Den∣bigh shires, from which it is severed by the River Conwey.

(2) The form thereof is much like a wedge, long and narrow towards the South and growing still wider towards the North: so that from Pev••nkel-point Southward, to Orms-head-point Northward, are forty miles, from the River Conwey Eastward, to the River Ll••noy Westward, miles twenty: and the whole circumference one hundred and ten miles.

(3) The Air is sharp and piercing, by reason that the Country hath not natural Provision to en∣sconce her self against the extremity of Winds and Weather: but especially, as may be thought, through the continuance of the Snow on the Hills, which also exclude the Suns aspect and warmth.

(4) The Soil cannot be much commended for the fertility, except those parts of the Sea-coasts, which lie on the West towards Ireland: but for the heart of this Shire, it is altogether mountainous, as if nature had a purpose here, by rearing up these craggy Hills so thick together, strongly to com∣pact the joynts of this our Island, and to frame the Inland part thereof for a fit place of refuge to the Britains, against those times of adversity which afterward did fall upon them; for no Army, though never so strongly, or scarce any Travellers, though never so lightly appointed, can find passage a∣mong those so many rough and hard Rocks, so many Vales and Pools here and there, crossing

all the ways, as ready obstacles to repel any Inroads of forrain assailants. These Mountains may not unfitly be termed the British Alps, as being the most vast of all Britain, and for their steepness and crag∣giness not unlike to those of Italy, all of them towring up into the Air, and round encompassing one far higher than all the rest, peculiarly called Snowdon Hills, though the other likewise in the sa••••e sense, are by the Welsh termed Craig Eriry, as much as Snowy Mountains, taking their name as doth (by Plinies testimony) Niphates in Armenia, and Imaus in Scythia: For all the year long these lie man∣telled over with Snow hard crusted together, though otherwise for their height they are open and liable both to the Sun to dissolve them, and the Winds to over-sweep them.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country were the O••••ovices, of whom we have sufficiently spoken in the description of the former Provinces; neither need I insist either upon the pleasures or profits that this Country yieldeth, by reason of the great affinity it hath both of Climate and Commo∣dities with Denbigh-shire and Flint-shire before mentioned: But this beyond the other in some places breeds certain Shel-fishes, which being conceived by an heavenly dew, bring forth Pearls, in ancient times more reckoned of than now they are.

(6) Touching places of note, that City is very ancient which the Emperour Antonine call••••h Segontium, taking name of a River running by, which at this day is called S••••ent: some Reliques of the Walls whereof do yet appear, neer unto a little Church consecrated to the honour of Saint Publicius. This City Ninius calleth Caer Custenith, which some interpret the City of Constantine. Indeed Matthew Westminster saith (how true I know not) that Anno 1283. here was found the body of Constantius (Father to Great Constantine) which King Edward th•• first caused to be sumptuously bestowed in the Church of the new City, which he raised out of the ruins of the old, and is now called Caernarvon, which giveth name to this whole Shire. The Town it self yieldeth a most

excellent prospect towards the Sea, and is incompassed (in a manner) round with the Walls of the Ca∣stle: so as we may say, it is a City within a Castle, which taketh up the whole West-side of it: and great pity it is, that so famous a work should not be perpetuous, or ever become the ruin of time, which is much feared, for the merciless underminings of the Sea, that with her daily and forcible irruptions ne∣ver ceaseth to wash away the Foundations of the Key. The People of this Town are well approved for courtesie, and also Civil Government, which is administred by the Constable of the Castle (who is ever Mayor by Patent) having the assistance of one Alderman, two Bailiffs, two Sergeants at Mace, and one Town-Cle••k. The Townsmen do not a little glory that King Edward the Second was born there, in a Tower of the Castle called Eagle-Tower, and surnamed of Caer-nar-von, he being the first Prince of Wales of the English Line. The site of this Town according to Mathematical observation is in the degree of Longitude 15 and 50 scruples from the first West point, and the Pole elevated in La∣titude 53 and 50.

Bangor the Bishops See, though it be now but a small Town, yet it was in time past so large, that for the greatness thereof it was called Banchor-Vaur, that is, Great-Banchor; which Hugh Earl of Che∣ster fortified with a Castle: But it hath been long since utterly ruinated and laid level with the ground, insomuch as there is not any footing to be found or o••her monuments left thereof, although they have been sought with all diligent enquiry. This Bishops See hath been the Diocess of ninety six Parishes. But the ancient Church which was consecrated unto Daniel, sometime Bishop thereof, was defaced and set on fire by that notorious Rebel Owen Glendowerdwy, who had a purpose also to destroy all the Cities of Wales, for that they stood for the King of England. And though the same Church was since repaired about the time of King Henry the seventh, yet hath it scarce recovered the resemblance of her former dignity.

The River Conwey (which limiteth this Shire on the East-side) is in Ptolomy by corruption or igno∣rance of Transcribers called Toissonius, instead of Cononius, whence Canonium (a Town mentioned by Antonine) took name: and albeit both it and its name be now utterly extinct, yet is there a covert re∣membrance thereof in the new name of a poor Village, standing among the rubbish thereof, called Caer-hean, (that is) the ancient City: Out of the Spoil whereof King Edward the first, built a new Town at the Rivers mouth, termed thereupon Aber-Conwey: (that is) the mouth of Conwey, which being formerly fortified by Hugh of Chester, and strongly situate and senced both with Walls and a fair Castle by the Rivers side, deserves rather the name of a City than a Town, if it were more populous and traffiqued with Inhabitants. Neither must I here forget Nowin, though but a small Market-Town, for that it pleased the English Nobles, Anno 1284, to honour it and the memory of King Ar∣thur, with triumphant celebrity, after they had subdued the rebellious Ringleaders of Wales.

(7) Other matters of memorable note this Country affordeth not much, unless perhaps this: That just over-against the River Conwey, where it issueth into the Sea, there sometimes stood an ancient City named Diganwey, which many years ago was consumed by Lightning, and so made utterly desolate, as many other Monuments have been, of ancient and worthy memory. As likewise that in the Pool Lin-Peris, there is a kind of Fish called there T••rcoth, having a red Belly, no where else seen. For touching these two other miracles famoused by Gira••dus and Gervasius, that on those his high Hills there are two Pools called the Mears, the one of which produceth great store of Fish, but all having only one Eye, and the other there is a moveable Island, which as soon as a man treadeth thereon, it forth∣with floateth a great way off, whereby the Welsh are said to have often scaped and deluded their Ene∣mies assailing them: these matters are out of my Creed, and yet I think the Reader had rather be∣lieve them, than to go to see whether it be so or no.

It is traded with five Market-Towns fit for bargaining, buying and selling, fortified with four Ca∣stles, and hath sixty eight Parish-Churches in it, where the Inhabitants concur and meet together for the celebration of Divine-Service.