An epitome of Mr. John Speed's theatre of the empire of Great Britain And of his prospect of the most famous parts of the world. In this new edition are added, the despciptions of His Majesties dominions abroad, viz. New England, New York, 226 Carolina, Florida, 251 Virginia, Maryland, 212 Jamaica, 232 Barbados, 239 as also the empire of the great Mogol, with the rest of the East-Indies, 255 the empire of Russia, 266 with their respective descriptions.

The General of Great BRITAIN.

CHAPTER I.

THE State of every Kingdome well managed by prudent government, seems to me to represent a humane Body, guided by the soveraignty of the Reasonable Soul: the Countrey and Land it self representing the one, the Actions and State-Affairs the other. Sith therefore the excellencies of the whole are but imperfectly laid open, where either of these Parts is defective, our intendment is to take a view as well out of the outward Body and Lineaments of the now flourishing British Monar∣chy (the Islands) Kingdomes and Provinces thereof in actual possession, (for with others, no less justly claimed in the continent, we meddle not) which shall be the continent of our first or Chorographical Tome, containing the four first Books of this our Theatre: as also of its successive government and vital actions of State, which shall be our second or Historical Tome, containing the five last Books. And here first we will (by example of the best Anatomists) propose to view the whole Body and Monarchy entire (as far as conveniently we could comprise it) and after will dissect and lay open the particular Members, Veins, and Ioynts, (I mean the Shires, Ri∣v••••s, Cities, and Towns) with such things as shall occur most worthy our regard, and most behove∣ful for our use.

(2) The Isl••nd of Great Britain (which with her adjoyning Isles is here first presented) contain∣••th the Kingdomes of England and Scotland, and is of many accounted the greatest Island in the World, though Iustus Lypsius gives that praise to Cuba in America, as the Oriental Navigators do unto Sumatra (taken for P••olomy's Tapro••aria) or to Madagascar, the Island of S. Laurence, both which are near unto, or under the Equi••octial Line; in which we will not contend: as pleasing our selves

with her other praises greater than her Greatness: yet with this honour also, that it was (without que∣stion) the greatest Island of the Roman World, and for any thing yet certainly known, of all the rest. Concerning whose positure in respect of Heaven, Lucretius (the first of the Latin Writers that names Britain) seemeth to place it in the same Parallel with Pontus, where he saith:

Nam quid Britannum coelum differre putamus, &c.

What differs Britains Heaven from that of Nile? Or Pontus welkin from Gades warmer Ile?

In which, by a certain cross comparison, he opposeth two likes against two unlikes, Britain and Pontus against Egypt and Gades. But to seek into profound Antiquity, rather than present practice, for matters in which Vse makes perfectness, were to affect the giving light by shadows, rather than by Sun-shine.

(3) It is by experience found to lie included form the degree fifty, and thirty scruples of La∣titude, and for Longitude extended from the 13. degree, and 20. minutes, unto the 22. and 50. mi∣nutes, according to the observation of Mercator. It hath Britain, Normandy, and other parts of France upon the South; the Lower Germany, Denmark▪ and Norway upon the East; the Isles of Ork∣ney and the Deucaledonian Sea, upon the North; the Hebrides upon the West, and from it all other Islands and Ilets, which do scatteredly inviron it, and shelter themselves (as it were) under the sha∣dow of Great Albion (another name of this famous Island) are also accounted Britannish, and are therefore here described all together.

(4) Britain thus seated in the Ocean hath her praises, not only in the present sense, and use of her commodities, but also in those honourable Eulogies, which the learnedst of Antiquaries hath col∣lected out of the noblest Authors, that he scarce seemeth to have left any gleanings: neither will we transplant them out of his flourishing Gardens, but as necessity compels, sith nothing can be further or otherwise better said.

(5) That Britain therefore is the Seas High Admiral, is famously known: and the Fortunate Island ••upposed by some, as Robert of Amesbury doth shew: whose Air is more temperate (saith Cae∣sar) then France; whose s••yl bringeth 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Grain in abundance, ••aith Tacitus; whose Seas pro∣duce orient Pearl, saith Suetonius; whose Fields are the seat of a Summer Queen, saith Orpheus; her wildest parts free from wild beasts, saith the ancient Panegyrick; and her chief City worthily named Augusta, as saith Ammianus: So as we may truly say with the royal Psalmist, Our lines are fallen in pleasant places, yea, we have a fair inheritance. Which whatsoever by the goodness of God, and industry of man it is now, yet our English Poet hath truly described unto the first face thereof, thus;

The Land which warlike Britains now possess, And therein have their mighty Empires rais'd, In ancient times was savage Wilderness, Vnpeopled, unmanur'd, unprov'd▪ unprais'd.

(6) And albeit the Ocean doth at this present thrust it self between Dover and Callis, dividing them with a deep and vast entrenchment; so that Britain thereby is of a supposed Penisle made an Island, yet divers have stifly held, that once it was joyned by an arm of land to the Continent of Gallia. To which opinion Spencer farther alluding, thus closeth his Stanza.

Ne was it Island then▪ ne was it paisde Amid the Ocean waves, ne was it sought Of Merchants far, for profits therein prasde, But was all desolate, and of some thought By Sea to have been from the Celtick Mainland brought.

Which as a matter meerly conjectural (because it is not plain that there were no Islands nor Hills

bofore Noahs floud) I leave at large: Virgil surely (of all Poets the most learned) when describing the Shield which Vulcan forged (in Virgils brain) for Aeneas, he calls the Morini (people about Calis) the outmost men, doth only mean that they were Westward, the furthest inhabitants upon the Con∣tinent, signifying that Bri••ain as being an Island, lay out of the World, but yet not out of the knowledge of men, for the Commodities thereof invited the famous Greek Colonies of Mer∣chants, Which dwelt at Marsilia in France, to venture hither, as hath been well observed out of Strabo.

(7) And as Iulius Caesar was the first Roman which ever gave an attempt to conquer it, so will we close its praises with a late Epigram, concerning the outward face of the Isle, and the motive of Caesars coming.

Albionis vertex frondoso crine superbus. Arboreas frondes plurimus ales habet. Gramineam Montes & fundunt pascua pubem; Et carpunt, circum pascua gramen oves: Sed Latii caruit potioribus Insula donis, Victori potior Gloria ni Latio.

Albions high tops her woody locks far shew, With Quires of chanting Birds these Woods resounding, Her Downs and Meadows clad in verdant hew, Meadows and Downs with Flocks and Heards abounding, Latium had greater Wealth, yet Caesar thought, To British Glory, Latiums Wealth worth nought.

(8) The division of Britain concerning the government and territories thereof, at such time as Caesar here arrived, doth not sufficiently appear. Caesar himself makes so sparing mention therein, that we have little cause to believe Florus, where he makes Livie say, that after Caesar had slain an huge multitude of Britaines, he subdued the residue of the Isle; but rather with exq••isite Horace, that he did not at all touch them, as the word inactus doth in him purport.

(9) Kings they were, and therefore that division which was here in Caesars time, was into Kingdoms: the old names of whole Nations, as also the knowledge of their several abodes, hidden under the rubbish of so many ages, have of late with infinite labours and exquisite judgment, been probably restored and abounded; yet that no mans expectation and desire be too much frustrated, reason wills that we briefly set forth such divisions of the Land, as many repute not ancient only, but au∣thentick.

(10) Our seeming ancient Historians begin it at Brute, who to every of his three sons gave a part called presently after by their names; as Loegria to Locrine his eldest son; Cambria to Camber his second son; and Albania to Albanist his third son: And doubtless, if there had been more Nations of fame in this Island, Brute should have had more sons fathered on him; which conceit some ascribe to Monmouth's holding that before him it was never so divided.

(11) Ptolomy naming Britain the Great and the Less, hath been by some mistaken, as so dividing this Island into two parts; But his proportion and distance from the Aequator, compared with his Geo∣graphical description will evince, that he calleth this our Island Great Britain, and Ireland Britain the Less.

(12) Howbeit some later do make indeed the South and more Champion to be called Great Britain, and the North more Mountainous, Britain the Less; whose inhabitants anciently were distinguish∣ed into the Majatae, and Caledo••ii, and now by the Scots are into Heilandmen, and Lawland∣men.

But that Northern clime being more piercing for the Roman constitutions, and less profitable or fruitful, they set their bounds not far from Edenburgh, and altogether neglected the other parts more Northward.

(13) This nearer part of Britain they then divided into two parts; for the more Southern tract, toge∣ther with Wales, Dio termeth the Higher, and that more Northward the Lower, as by the seats of their Legions doth appear; for the second Legion Augusta (which kept at Caerleon in South Wales) and the twentieth called Victrix, (which remained at Chester) he placeth in the higher Britain but the sixt Legion sirnamed also Victrix, resident at York, served (as he writeth) in the Lower Britain, which division, as seemeth, was made by Severus the Emperour, who having vanquished Albinus, General of the Britains, and reduced their State under his obedience, divided the government thereof into two provinces, and placed two Prefects over the same.

(14) After this again the Romans did apportion Britain into three parts, whose limits our great An∣tiquary assigneth by the ancient Archiepiscopal Seats, grounding his conjecture on the saying of Pope Lucius, who affirmeth that the Ecclesiastical Iurisdictions of the Christians, accorded with the pre∣cincts of the Roman Magistrates, and that their Archb••shops had their Sees in those Cities wherein their Presidents abode: so that the ancient Seats of the three Archb••shops here, being London in the East, C••erleon in the West, and York in the North; Londons Diocess (as seemeth) made Britain prima, Caerleon Britain secunda; and York, Maxima Caesari••nsis.

(15) But in the next age, when the power of their Presidents began to grow over great, they again divided Britain into five parts, adding to the three former Valentia and ••lavia Caesariensis: the first of which two seemeth to have been the Northerly part of Maxima Caesariensis, recovered from the Picts and Scots by Theodo••lus the General under Valence the Emperour, and in honour of him named Vale••∣tia: and Flavia may be conjectured to receive the name from Flavius the Emperour (son of The••d••sius) for that we read not of the name Britain ••lavia, before his time.

(16) So these five partitions had their limits assigned after this manner: Britaine prima contained those coasts that lay betwixt Thamesis, the Severne, and the British Sea: Britaine Secunda extended from Severne unto the Irish Seas, containing the Countrey that we now call Wales: Flavia Caesariensis, was that which lay betwixt the Rivers Humber and Tyne: and Valentia from the said River, and Picts wall reached unto the Rampire near Edenburgh in Scotland, the farthest part that the Romans possessed when this division was in use. For the several people inhabiting all those parts, with their ancient Names and Borders (whether designed by the Romans, or the old Britains) together with our modern Names and Shires, answerable to each of them, we will refer you to the Tables thereof elsewhere.

(17) This whole Province of Britain, as in our History shall appear, was highly esteemed of the Emperours themselves, assuming as a glorious surname Britannicus: coming thither in person over those dangerous and scarce known Seas; here marrying, living, and dying: enacting here Laws for the whole Empire, and giving to those Captains that served here, many ensigns of great honour; yea Claudius gave Plantius (the first Prefect of that Province) the right hand, as he accompanied him in his Triumph; and his own Triumph of Britain was set out with such magnificence, that the Provinces brought in golden Crowes of great weight, the Governours commanded to attend, and the very Captains permitted to be present at the same: A Naval Coronet was fixed upon a Pinnacle of his Palace, Arches and Trophies were raised in Rome, and himself on his aged knees mounted the staires into the Capitol, supported by his two sons in Law: so great a joy conceived he in himself for the Conquest of some small portion of Britain.

(18) Now the Romans found it, held it, and left it, as times ripened and rottened their success, with the Names, the Inhabitants, Manners, and Resisters, I leave to be pursued in the following Histories: and will only now shew thee these three Kingdoms, that are (in present) the chief Bodies of Great Britains Monarchy; two of which (Scotland and Ireland) shall in their due places have their farther and more particular Descriptions.

[illustration] map of England

THE KINGDO¦ME OF ENGLAND

ENGLANDS General Description.

CHAPTER II.

THE Saxons glory now near to expire, by his appointment who holdeth both times and Kingdoms in his all-ordering hand, their own Swords being the Instruments, and the Dan••s the mauls that beat their beautiful Diadem into pieces▪ the Normans a stirring Nation, (neither expected, nor much feared) under the leading of William their Duke, and encouragement of the Roman Bishop (an usual promoter of broken titles) made hither suddenly into England, who in one only battel, with the title of his sword and slaughter of Ha∣rold, set the imperial Crown thereof upon his own head: which no sooner was done, but the English went down, and the Normans lording it, became Owners of those Cities which themselves never built, pos∣sessed those Vineyards which they never planted, drunk of those Wells which they never had digged, and inha∣bited those Houses, filled with riches, for which they never had laboured: for they found it to be as the land whereupon the Lord set his eye, even from the beginning to the end of the year: not only drinking water of the rain of Heaven, but having also rivers of waters and fountains in her valleys, and without all scarcitie, whose stones are Iron, and out of whose mountains is digged brass. This made them more resolute at first to settle themselves in this fairest and fruitfullest part of the Island; the conquerour using all policy, both Martial and Civil, to plant his posterity here for ever. How he found the Land governed we shewed in the Heptarchy; but his restless thoughts were not contented with conquering the Nation and their Land, unless he also overcame their very Customes, Laws, and Language.

(2) Touching the distribution of the Kingdome, whereas other Kings before him made use of it, chiefly for the good of the people, and better ministring of Iustice, he made use of it, to know the wealth of his Subjects, and to enrich his Coffers; for he caused a description to be made of all England,

••ow much land every one of his Barons possessed how many Knights fees, how many Plow-lands, how many in villanage, how many heads of beasts, yea, how much ready money every man, from the greatest to the ••ast, did possess, and what rents might be made of every mans possession: the Book of which inquisition (yet in the Exchequer) was called Doomesday, for the generality of that Iudgment on all the Land: Whereunto we may add his other distribution of this Land (worse than any former) when thrusting the English out of their possessions, ••e distributed their inheritances to his Souldiers; yet so, that all should be held of the King, as of the only true Lord and possessor.

(3) For the Laws by which he meant to govern, he held one excellent rule and purpose, which was, that a people ought ••to be ruled by Laws written and certain: for otherwise new Iudges would still bring new Iudgments: and therefore he caused twelve to be chosen out of every County, which should on their oath, without inclining one way or other, neither adding nor de••racting, open unto him all their ancient Laws and Customes. By whose relation understanding that three sorts of Laws former∣ly were in the Land, Merchelenage, West-Saxonlage, Dane-lage; he had preferred these last, (him••elf and people being anciently derived from those Northern people) had not all the Barons beway∣ling to the King, how grievous it was for a Land to be judged by those Laws which they understood not, altered his resolute purpose: yet in bringing in the strange ••orms of Norman Processe, and pleading in the French tongue (which continued till Edward the thirds time) that grievance was bu•• slend••rly prevented. So likewise did he much alter the old Courts of Iustice, where these Laws shou••d be ministred, but whereas the ancient Kings of England, ac••ording to Moses his example, sate in p••rson in the seat of Iustice, to right the greater affairs of their Subjects, as William Lambe•••• sheweth in King Alfred, Edgar, Canutus, &c. and proves out of the Kings Oath, out of Bracto••, Britain, ••axon Laws, &c. King William not only continued this, but beside•• er••cted some other C••urt•• of ••u∣stice, as the Exchequer, and certain Courts and Sessions to be held four times every year ••ap∣pointing

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

both Iudges (some to hear causes, others to whom appeals should be made, but none from them) and also Praefects to look to good orders. Those last Polydor calleth Iustices of Peace; but their in∣struction seems to be far later: and no less is his errour on the other side, in saying the Conquerour first instituted Sheriffs, and the trial by twelve men, which were both ancienter.

(4) And because the Conquerour, for honour of Bishops, caused them to remove from small obssure places to Cities of more renown; we have therefore reserved to this last ••lace that division of this Kingdome▪ which is according to Iurisdiction Episcopal. Formerly in the year of Salvation, 636. Honorius the first Archbishop of Canterbury, first divided England into Parishes, which at this day are contained under their several Diocesans, and these again under their two Metropolitanes (Can∣••erbury and York) in manner following.

CANTERBVRY.

Bishopricks.	Counties.	Parishes.
Canterbury.	Kent.	257.
Rochester.	98.
London.	Essex.	623.
Middlesex.
Hertford-shire part.

Lincoln.	Lincoln-shire.	1255.
Leicester-shire.
Huntington.
Bedford-shire.
Buckingham-shire.
Hertford-shire part.
Chichester.	Hertford-shire	250.
Sussex.
Winchester.	Hant-shire.	362.
Surrey.
Wight Isle.
Gernesey Isle.
Iersey Isle.
Salisbury.	Wilt-shire.	248.
Bark-shire.
Exeter.	Devon-shire.	604.
Corne-wall.

Bath and Wells.	Sommerset-shire.	388.
Gloucester.	Gloucester-shire.	267.
Worcester.	Worcester-shire.	241.
Warwick-shire.
Litchfield and Coventry.	Warwick shire part.	557.
Stafford-shire.
Derby-shire.
Shrop-shire part.
Hereford.	Shrop shire part.	313.
Hereford-shire.
Ely.	Cambridge-shire.	141.
Ely Isle.
Norwich.	Norfolke.	1641.
Suffolk.

Oxford.	Oxford-shire.	195.
Peterborow.	Northampton.	293.
Rutland-shire.
Bristow.	Dorset-shire.	236.
Glamorgan.
Landaffe.	Monmouth-shire.	177.
Brecknock-shire.
Radnor-shire.
S. David.	Pembroke-shire.	308.
Caermarden.
Bangor.	Caernarvon-shire.	107.
Anglesey Isle.
Merioneth-shire.
Denbigh-shire.

S. Asaph.	Devon-shire part.	121.
Flint-shire part.
	YORK.
York.	York-shire.	581.
Nottingham-shire.
Chester.	Cheshire.	256.
Richmond-shire.
Cumberland part.
Lanca-shire.
Flint part.
Carlile.	Cumberland part.	93.
Westmorland.
Durham.	••urham	135.
Northumberland.

Sodor.	Man Island.	17.
Total	Bishopricks 27.	Parishes 9285.

(9) To speak nothing of these twenty eight Flamins the Priests of Idolatry, and the three Arch-Flamins, whose seats were at London, Caerlion, and York; all of them converted by King Lu∣cius into Christian Bishops Sees; let us only insist upon the three last, by the same King appointed to be Metropolitanes over the rest; among whom London is said to be chief; whose first Christian Arch∣bishop was Thean, the builder of S. Peters Church in Cornhill for his Cathedral, as by an ancient Table there hanging, was affirmed, and tradition to this day doth hold. Our British Histori∣ans do bring a succession of fifteen Arch-bishops, to have sate from his time unto the coming of the Saxons, whose last was Vodius, slain by King Vortiger, for reprehending his heathenish marriage with Rowen, the Daughter of Hengist. At what time began the misery of the Land, and of holy Reli∣gion,

both which they laid waste under their prophane feet: until Ethelbert of Kent, the first Christi∣an Saxon King, advanced Christianity, and Augustine to the Archbishoprick of Ca••terbury, when London under Melitus became subject to that See.

(6) At Caerlion upon Vske in the time of the great Arthur, sate Dubritius, a man excellently learned, and of an hol•• conversation; he had sate Bishop of Landaffe a long time, and with Germanus and Lupus, two French Bishops, greatly impugned the Pelagian Heresie, infecting at that time the Island very far, whose fame and integrity was such, that he was made Archbishop of all Wales but grown very old, he resigned the same unto Davi•• his Disciple, a man of greater birth, and greater austeri∣ty of life, who by consent of King Arthur, removed his Archbishops See unto Menevia, a place ve∣ry solitary and meet for meditation: the miracles of the man (which are said to be many) changed both the name of the place into his own, and robbed Caerlion of her Archiepiscopal seat: This See of S. Davids (as in an ancient Register belonging to that Church is recorded) had seven Bishops Suffragans subject unto it, which were Exeter, Bath, Hereford, Landaffe, Bangor, S. Asap••, and ••ernes in Ireland: notwithstanding, either for want of Pall, carried into Britany by Archbishop Sampson, in a dangerous infection of sickness, or by poverty or negligence, it lost that jurisdiction, and in the days of King Henry the first, became subject to the See of Canterbury.

(7) York hath had better succes•• than either of the former, in retaining her original honour, though much impaired in her circuit, challenging to have been sometime Metropolitane over all the Bishops in Scotland; and although it was made equal in honour and power with Canterbury, by Pope Gregory, as Beda relateth, and had twelve suffragan Bishopricks that owed obedience, onely four now ac∣knowledge York their Metropolitane, but Canterbury the Superiour: for William the Conquerour thinking it dangerous to have two in like authority, lest the one should set on his Crown, and the o∣ther 〈◊〉〈◊〉 it off, left York to be a primate, but Canterbury only the primate of all England.

(8) That Lichfield was made an Archiepiscopal See by Pope Hadrian the first, at the suit of Offa, the great King of Mercia, is manifested by Matthew of Westminster, unto whose Iurisdiction were as∣signed the Bishopricks of Winchester, Hereford, Leicester, Sidnacester, Helmham, and Dunwich, and whose first and last Archbishop was Aldwin. That Winchester also had intended an Archiepiscopal Pall, the same Author recordeth, when Henry Bloys, of the Bloud Royal, greatly contended with the Archbishop of Canterbury for superiority, under the pretence of being Cardinal de latere; to him an Archiepiscopal Pall•• was sent, with power and authority over seven Churches; but he dying before that the design was done, the See of Winchester remained in subjection to Canterbury. And that (long before) the See of Dorchester by Oxford, had the Iurisdiction of an Archbishop, is apparent by those provinces that were under his Diocess, which were Winchester, Oxford, Lincoln, Salisbury, Bristow, Wells, Litchfield, Chester, and Exeter; and the first Bishop of this great circuit, Derinus, was called the Apostle and Bishop of the West Saxons: which in his next successor was divided into two parts, Winchester and Dorchester, and not long after into Lichfield, Sidnacester, and Legecister; and last∣ly, the See removed from Dorchester to Lincoln, as now it is. And thus far for the division of this Realm, both Politick and Ecclesiastick, as it hath stood and stands at this day.

(9) But the whole Islands division by most certain Record was anciently made, when Iulius Agri∣cola drew a trench or fortification upon that narrow space of ground betwixt Edenborough Frith, and Dunbetton Bay, maketh the Southern part a province unto the Roman Empire. Afterwards Hadrian the Emperour, seeing perhaps the Province too spacious to be well governed without great expence, drew back these limits almost sourscore miles shorter, even to the mouth of the River Tyne, which he fortified with a wall of admirable work unto Carl••le, where stood the Lands border, while it was a Roman Province: yet the conquering Saxons did spread again over those bounds, and (as seemeth) enlarged their government to that first Tract, as by this inscription in a Stone Cross stand∣ing upon a Bridge over the water of Frith, appeareth.

I am a free Mark as Passengers may ken, To Scots, to Britains, and to English men.

(10) But afterward William the Conquerour, and Malcolm King of Scotland, falling to an agree∣ment for their limits▪ arreared a Cross upon Stanemore, where on the one side the portraiture and Armes of the King of England was sculptured, and of the King of Scots on the other (a piece whereof is yet remaining there near to the Spittle) thence called the Rey-Cross, there erected to be a Meare-stone to either Kingdome. His successors also abolished the two partitions in the West, whereby the Welsh became one Nation and Kingdome with the English. It is also said that King Stephen, to purchase friendship with the Scottish Nation, gave unto their King the County of Cum∣berland, who with it held both Westmorland and Northumberland; but as Newbrigensis writeth, he restored them to King Henry the second, wisely considering his great power and right to those parts.

(11) The last known borders were from the Sulway in the West bay, along the Cheviot hills, un∣to the water of Tweed by Barwick in the East; to maintain which, on each part many Laws have been made, and many inrodes, robberies, and fewdes practised; all which by the hand of God is cut off, and by the rightfull succession of King Iames our Soveraigne, who hath broken down the partition of this great Island, and made the extreames of two Kingdomes, the very midst of his great united Empire.

[illustration] map of Kent

KENT

KENT.

CHAPTER III.

KENT, the first province appearing in the South of this Kingdom, is bounded upon the North with the famous River Thamisis, on the East with the German Ocean: on the South with Sussex and the narrow Seas▪ and upon the West with Sussex and Surrey. The length thereof extending from Langley in the West, unto Ramsgate Eastward in the Isle of Thanet, is about 53 English miles. From Rother in the South, unto the Isle of Graine Northward, the breadth is not much above 26, and the whole circumference about 160 miles.

(2) In form it somewhat resembleth the head of a Hammer or Battle-axe, and lieth corner-wise into the Sea; by Strabo, Caesar, Diodorus, and P••olomy, called Cantium, of Cant, or Canton, an Angle or Corner: or of Caine a British word, which signifieth Bushes or VVoods, whereof that County in those former times was plentifully stored.

(3) The Air though not very clear, because of the vapours arising from the Sea, and Rivers that environ the same, is both wholesome and temperate, as seated nearest to the Equinoctial, and the furthest from the North Pole, not touched with cold as the other parts of the Land are.

(4) The soil towards the East is uneven, rising into little hills, the West more level and Woody; in all places fruitful, and in plenty equals any other of the Realm, yea, and in some things hath the best esteem; as in broad cloths, Fruits, and feeding for Cattel. Onely Mines (except Iron) are wanting: all things else delivered with a prodigal heart and liberal hand.

(5) Sundry navigable Rivers are in Kent, whereof Medway, that divideth the shire in the midst, is chief; in whose bosome securely rideth his Majesties Navy Royal, the walls of the Land, and ter∣rours of the Sea, besides ten other of name and account, that open with twenty Creeks and Ha∣vens

for Ships arrivage into this Land, four of them bearing the name of Cinque Ports, are places o•• great strength and priviledges, which are Dover, Sandwich, Rumney, and Winchelsey: among which Do∣ver with the Castle is accounted by Matthew Paris the Monk, the lock and key to the whole Realm of England; and by Iohn Rosse and Lidgate is said to be built by Iulius Caesar, fatal only for the death of King Stephen, and surrender of King Iohn therein happening.

(6) A conceit is, that Goodwin Sands were sunk for the sins of himself and his sons: Shelves indeed that dangerously lie on the North-east of this County, and are much feared of all Naviga∣tors. These formerly had been firm ground, but by a sudden inundation of the Sea were swallowed up, as at the same time a great part of Flanders and the Low Countries were; and the like also at the same time befel in Scotland, as Hector Boetius their Historiographer writeth. A like accident hapned in the year 1586, the fourth day of August, in this County, at Mottingham, a Town eight miles from London, suddenly the ground began to sink, and three great Elmes thereon growing, were carried so deep into the bowels of the earth, that no part of them could any more be seen, the hole left in compass fourscore yards about, and a line of fifty fathoms plummed into it, doth find no bot∣tom.

(7) The Kentish people in Caesars time were accounted the civillest among the Britains; and as yet esteem themselves the freest Subjects of the English, not conquered, but compounded with by the Normans; and herein glory, that their King and Commons of all the Saxons were the first Christians, converted in Anno 596; yea, and long before that time also Kent received the Faith: for it is recorded that Lucius the first Christian British King in this Island, built a Church to the name and service of Christ, within the Castle of Dover, endowing it with the Toll of the same Haven.

(8) This County is enriched with two Cities and Bishops Sees, strengthened with 27 Castles, graced with 8 of His Majesties most Princely Houses, traded with 24 Market-Towns, and

beautified with many stately and gorgeous buildings. The chiefest Ci••y thereof, the Motropolitane and Arch-bishops See, is Canterbury, bui••t (as our British Historians report) 900 years before the birth of ••hrist; by Henry of Huntington, called Caier-Kent, wherein (as M. Lambard saith) was ere∣cted the first School of professed Arts and Sciences, and the same a pattern unto Sigibert King of the East Angles, for hi•• foundation at Cambridge; notwithstanding by the computation of time, this Sigibert was slain by Penda, King of Mercia, thirty years before that Theodore the Grecian was Bi∣shop of Canterbury, who is said to be the erector of that Academy. But certain it is, that Austin the Monk had made this City famous before that time, by the conversion of these Saxons unto Christiani∣••y, and in building a most magnificent Church to Gods service, wherein eight of their Kings have been interred, but all their Monuments since over-shadowed by the height of Beckets Tomb, that for glory, wealth, and superstitious worships, equalized the Pyramides of Egypt, or the Oracle of Delphos, yet now with Dagon is fallen before the Ark of God.

This City hath been honoured with the presence and Coronations of King Iohn and Queen Isabel his wife, with the marriages of King Henry the third, and of King Edward the first, and with the interments of Edward the Black Prince, King Henry the fourth, and of Queen Ioan his wife: as Fe∣versham is with the burials of King Stephen, and of Maud his Queen and wife. But as in glory so in adversity hath this City born a part, being divers times afflicted by the Danes, but most especially in the dayes of Ethelred, who in that revenge of their massacre, made havock of all, and herein slew forty three thousand and two hundred persons, the tenth besides reserved to live. Afterward it recovered breath and beauty by the liberality of Bishop Lanford; Characters and priviledges by King Henry the third; strength in Trench and Fortifications from King Richard the second; and lastly, Walls for her defence by Simon Sudbury Arch-bishop of that See: whose Graduation is placed for Latitude 51. 25, and parallelized for Longitude 22. 8, her sister Rochester differing not much in either degree.

(9) Which City (as Beda saith) was built by one Rof, Lord of the same, though some ascribe the foundation of the Castle to Iulius C••sar, and hath been often ruinated by the injuries of war, both in the times when the Saxons strove for superiority among themselves, wherein this City was laid waste, Anno 680. as also in the assaults of their common enemy the Danes, who about the year 884. from France sailed up the River Medway, and besieged the same; so that had not King Elfred speedi∣ly come to the rescue, it had been overthrown by those Pagans. And again in Anno 999. the D••nes miserably spoiled this City in the time of King Ethelred: neither ha••n it stood safe from danger since (though not defaced so much by war) for twice hath it been sore endamaged by chance of fire: the first was in the Reign of King Henry the first, Anno 1130. himself being present with most of his Nobility, for the consecration of the Cathedral Church of S. Andrew. And again almost wholly consumed about the latter end of the Reign of King Henry the second, Anno 1177. Yet after all these calamities, it recovered some strength again, by the bounty of King Henry the third, both in buil∣dings, and in ditching her about for defence.

(10) Civil broyls and dissentions hath this County been burdened with, and that not only un∣der the Saxons and Danes, whose desolations were many and grievous, but also by other rebellions since the Normans Conquest, both in those infamous insurrections, called The Barons Wars, in the reign of King Henry the Third, wherein much harm was done: as also under King Richard the Second, when Wat Tyler, Captain of a dreadful commotion, assembled at Black-heath, Mile-end, and in London, doing many outrages, where in Smithfield he was lastly struck down by William VVallworth then Mayor of the City, and worthily slain for his notorious treasons. Again, upon Black-heath, Michael Ioseph, the Lord Dawbeney with their Cornish Rebels, were overthrown by King Henry the Seventh, Anno 1497.

(11) Kent in the time of Iulius Caesar, was governed by four several Kings. Under Vortigern the Britain, by a Lieutenant called Guoronge, from whom the said King gave it to Hengist the Saxon, in fa∣vour of his Daughter Howen, who seeking to make himself absolute King thereof, eight years after his first entrance, fought a victorious battel against the Britains near unto Crayford, and thenceforth accounted that Province his own. Yet afterward Vortimer the valiant Britain, gave him battel at Aylesford: in the which both Horsa and Catigern, brethren to both the Generals, were slain, and the Saxons driven into the Isle of Thanet, their first assigned habitation, not daring to enter the Continent so long as Vortimer lived. Catigern was interred upon that plain, where to this day remaineth his Monument, being 4 stones pitched in manner of the Stonehenge, and is vulgarly called Citscote∣house. The like Monument was of Horsa at Horsted, which stormes and time have now devoured. Hengist made this Province a Kingdom for himself and successors, which name and power it re∣tained the space of three hundred and twenty years, when Egbert King of the West-Saxons subdued and joyned it to his own: in which subjection it stood untill the time of the Normans. Then it was gi∣ven under the title of an Earldom by the Conquerour, unto Otha Bishop of Bayeux his half bro∣ther, whose successors in that dignity were those most honourable families, whose Arms and Names within this plot are blazed and expressed. It is divided principally into five Lathes, subdivided into 66 hundreds, and them again into 398 Parishes: and wherein had been seated twenty three Religious Houses.

[illustration] map of Sussex

SUSSEX

SUSSEX.

CHAPTER IV.

SOUTH-SEX, a word compounded of the site thereof Southward, lieth stretched along the British Seas: The North confronts upon Surrey and Kent, and the West butteth upon Hamp∣shire.

(2) For form it lieth long and narrow, so that all her Rapes do run quite through the Shire, and containeth from Westharting in the West, to Kent ditch, that divides it from Kent in the East, sixty four miles, but in the broadest part little above twenty, the whole circumference about one hundred fifty eight miles.

(3) The Air is good, though somewhat clouded with mists, which arise forth of her South bor∣dering Sea, who is very prodigal unto her for Fish and Sea-fowl, though as sparing for Harbours or Ships arrivage; and those which she hath, as uncertain for continuance, as dangerous for en∣trance.

(4) Rich is the Soil, and yieldeth great plenty of all things necessary, but very ill for travellers, especially in the winter, the Land lying low, and the ways very deep, whose middle tract is garni∣shed with Meadows, Pastures and Corn fields, the Sea-coast with Hills, which are called the Downs, abundantly yielding both Grain and Grass, and the North side over shadowed with plea∣sant Groves and thick Woods, where sometimes stood the famous wood Andradswald, containing no less than an hundred and twenty miles in length, and thirty in breadth, taking the name of Andexida a City adjoyning: both which were won from the Britains by Ella the first Saxon King of this Province, and the place made fatal to Sigebert King of the VVest-Saxens, who being deposed

from his Royal throne, was met in this Wood by a Swine-herd, and slain in revenge of his Lord, whom Sigebert had nurdered.

(5) The ancient people in the Romans time were the R••gni, of whom we have spoken, and who were subdued by Vespasian the Leader of the second Legion under Aulus, Plautius, Lieutenant in Bri∣tain for Claudius the Emperour. But after the departure of the Romans, this, with Surrey, was made the South ••axons King••ome: yet that giving place to the VVest-Saxons, as they in time to the Normans, i•• became a Province under the Conquerours power, who gave to his followers much Land in these parts.

(6) The place of most account in this Shire is Chichester, by the Britains called C••ercei, a City beautifull and large, and very well walled about, first built by Cissa the second King of the ••outh Sax∣ons, wherein his Royal Palace was kept. And when King VVilliam the First had enacted that Bishops Sees should be trans••••ted out of small Towns unto places of greater resort, the Re••idence of the Bishop (until then held at Selsey) was removed to this City, where Bishop Raulfe began a most goodly Cathedral Church: but before it was fu••ly finished by a sudden mischance of fire was quite consumed. Yet the same Bishop with the helping liberality of King Henry the First, began it again, and saw it wholly finished; whose beauty and greatness her fatal enemy still envying, a∣gain cast down in the dayes of King Richard the First, and by her raging flames consumed the buildings both of it and the Bishops Palace adjoyning, which Seffrid the second Bishop of that Name re-edified and built anew. And now to augment the honour of this place, the City hath born the Title of an Earldome; whereof they of Arundel were sometimes so styled. Whose Gra∣duation for Latitude, which is removed from the Aequator unto the degree fifty five minutes; and for Longitude, observing the same point in the West, whence Mercator hath measured, are twenty degrees.

(7) With whom for frequency, bigness, and building, the Town Lewes seemeth to contend, where King Athelstane appointed the mintage of his Moneys, and VVilliam de VVarron built a strong Ca∣stle, whereunto the disloyal Barons of King Henry the Third in warlike manner resorted, and fought a great Battle against their own Soveraign and his son, wherein the King had his Horse flain un∣der him, Richard, King of the Romans surprised and taken in a Wind-mill, and Prince Edward deli∣vered unto them upon equal conditions of peace. But a greater Battel was fought at Battle, when the hazard of England was tried in one days fight, and Harold the King gave place to his Conquerour by losing of his life, among sixty seven thousand, nine hundred seventy four Englishmen besides; whose bloud so spilt, gave name to the place, in French Sangue lac. And the soyl naturally after rain becoming of a reddish colour, caused William Newbery untruly to write, That if there fall any small sweet showers in the place where so great a slaughter of the English-men was made, presently sweateth forth very fresh bloud out of the earth, as if the evidence thereof did plainly declare the voice of bloud there shed, and cried still from the earth unto the Lord.

(8) But places of other note in this Shire are these: from Basham, Earl Harold taking the Sea for his delight, in a small Boat, was driven upon the Coast of Normandy, where by Duke William he was retained, 'till he had sworn to make him King after Edward the Confessors death; which oath being bro∣ken, the Bastard arrived at Pensey, and with his sword revenged that Perjury. At VVest-VVittering also Ell•• the Saxon before him had landed for the conquering of those parts, and gave name to the shore from Cimen his son But with greater glory doth Gromebridge raise up her head, where Charles Duke of Orleance, father to Lewes the twelfth: King of France, taken prisoner at Agincourt, was there a long time detained.

(9) The commodities of this Province are many and divers, both in Corn, Cattle, VVood, Iron, and Glass; which two last, as they bring great gain to their possessors, so do they impoverish

the County of Woods, whose want will be found in ages to come, if not at this present in some sort felt.

(10) Great have been the devotions of religious Persons, in building and consecrating many houses unto the use and only service of Christ; whose Beadmen abusing the intents of their Foun∣ders, hath caused those Foundations to lament their own ruins: For in the tempestuous time of King Henry the Eighth, eighteen of them in this County were blown down, whose fruit fell into the Laps of some that never meant to restore them again to the like use.

This County is principally divided into six Rapes, every of them containing a River, a Castle and Forrest in themselves, besides the several Hundreds whereunto they are parted, that is the Rape of Chichester into seven, of Arundel into five, of Bramber into ten, of Lewes into thirteen, of Peven∣sey into seventeen, and of Hastings into thirteen, in all fifty six; wherein are seated ten Castles, eigh∣teen Market-Towns, and three hundred and twelve Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Surrey

SURREY

SURREY.

CHAPTER V.

SURREY, by Beda called Sutbri, lieth seperated upon the North from the counties of Buc∣kingham and Middlesex, by the great River Thamisis; upon the East, Kent doth inbound it; upon the South is held in with Sussex and Hamp-shire; and her West part is bordered upon by Hamp-shire and Bark-shire.

(2) The form thereof is somewhat square, and lieth by North and by East, whereof Redrith and Frensham are the opposites, betwixt whom are extended thirty four miles. The broadest part is from Awfold Southward, to Thamisis by Stanes, and them asunder twenty two: the whole in circumference is one hundred and twelve miles.

(3) The heavens breathing Air in this Shire is most sweet and delectable, so that for the same cause many Royal Palaces of our Princes are therein seated, and the Countrey better stored with game than with grain, insomuch that this County is by some men compared unto a home-spun freeze-cloth, with a costly fair list, for that the out-verge doth exceed the middle it self. And yet it is wealthy enough both in Corn and Pasturage, especially in Holmesdale, and towards the River of Thamisis.

(4) In this shire the Regni (an ancient people mentioned by Ptolomy) were seated, whom he brancheth further through Sussex and some part of Hamp-shire. And in the wane of the Romans Go∣vernment, when the Land was left to the will of invaders, the South-Saxons under Ella here erected their Kingdome, which with the first was raised, and soonest found end. From them no doubt the Countrey was named Suth-rey as seated upon the South of the River; and now by contraction is cal∣led Sur••ey:

(5) And albeit the County is barren of Cities or Towns of great estate, yet is she stored with many Pri••cely Houses, yea and five of his Majesties, so magnificently built, that of some she may well say, no shire hath none such, as is None such indeed. And were not Richmond a fatal place of Englands best Princes, it might in estem be ranked with the richest: For therein died the great Con∣querour of France, King Edward the Third, the beautiful Ann daughter to Charles the Fourth, Em∣perour, and intirely beloved wife to King Richard the Second; the most wise Prince King Henry the Seventh, and the rarest of her Sex, the Mirrour of Princes, Queen Elizabeth, the worlds love, and Subjects joy.

(6) At M••rton likewise Kenulph King of the West-Saxons came to his untimely end: and at Lam∣beth the hardy Canute, and last of the Danish Kings, died among his Cups. But as these places were fatal for the last breath of these Princes, so other in this County have been graced with the body and beginning of other worthy Monarchs: for in Cher••sey Abby King Henry the Sixth, who was deposed and made away in the Tower of London, was first interred without all ••uneral pomp, but for his holy life was imputed a Saint, and lastly translated, and intombed at Winsor. At Kingstone likewise stood the Chair of Majesty, wherein Athelstan, Edwin, and Etheldred sate at their Coro∣nation, and first received their S••epter of Imperial power. Guildford likewise hath been far greater than now it is, when the Palace of our English-Saxon Kings was therein set. And seeing it is the midst of the Shire, the graduation from thence shall be observed, where for Latitude the Pole is raised from the degree 51, 22 s••ruples: and her Longitude from the West in the degree 20 and 2 scruples.

(7) Neither can we account Okam and Ripley, two small Villages, the least in this Shire, which have brought forth the well known men, William de Okam, that deep Philosopher, and admirable Scholar, and George de Ripley, the ring-leader of our Alchymists and mystical impostors; both of them born in this County, and very near together. But why speak I of these, sith a place nearer

to sight and greater for ••ame, even Lambeth, is the High Seat of Ecclesiastical Government, Piety and Learning, and Palace of Canterburies Arch-bishops, the Metropolita••s of England. First erected by Archbishop Baldwin, and ever since hath been the residing of all those worthy Prelates of our Church, who in a long succession (even from Anno 596:) have continued to him that now most worthily sits at the Churches stern, Richard by Gods providence Lord Archbishop of that See, a most faithfull and prudent Councellour unto King Iames, and a most learned and provident Guide of our most flourishing Church: whose gracious favour undeservedly conferred upon me, hath been a great encouragement to these my poor endeavours.

(8) Memorable places of Battles fought before the Conquest, were Wembledon, where (when the fulness of prosperity burst forth into Civil Dissentions among the Saxons) a bloudy Battle was fought betwixt Cheaulin the West Saxon and young Ethelbert of Kent, wherein he was discomfited and two of his principal Leaders slain, about the year of Christ 560. and three hundred thirty three years after, King Elfred with a small power overcame the Danes with a great slaughter at Farnham in this County, which somewhat quelled the courage of his savage enemy.

(9) Religious Houses erected in this shire by the devotion of Princes, and set apart from publick uses to Gods Divine Service, and their own salvation, as then was taught, the best in account, were Shene, Chertsey, Merton, Newarke, Rygats, Waverly, Horsleg; and in Southwarke, Bermund∣sey, and S. Maries. These all flourished with increase, till the ripeness of their fruit was so pleasing in sight and taste unto King Henry the Eighth, that in beating the boughs he brake down body and all, ruinating those houses, and seizing their rich possessions into his own hands: So jealous is God of his honour, and so great vengeance followeth the sin of Idolatry.

(10) In this Shire have stood eight fair and strong Castles: such we••e Addington, Darking, Star∣burgh, Rygate, Gilford, Farnham, Goseford, and Brenchingley: but of greater State are Oking, Otlands, None-such, and Richmond, his Majesties Royal Mannors. And for service to the Crown or Common∣wealths imployments, this Counties division is into thirteen Hundreds, wherein are seated eight Market-Towns, and one hundred and forty Parish-Churches

[illustration] map of Southhampton

SOUT∣HAMPTON

HANT-SHIRE.

CHAPTER VI.

HANT-SHIRE, lying upon the West of England is bordered upon the North by Bark∣shire, upon the East with Surrey and Sussex, upon the South with the British Seas, and Isle of Wight, and upon the West with Dorset and Wilt-shire.

(2) The length thereof from Blackwater in the North upon Surrey, unto Bascomb in the South upon the Sea, extended in a right line, is fifty four English miles, and the breadth drawn from Petersfield in the East, unto Tidworth in the West, and confines of Wilt-shire, is little less than thirty miles, the whole circumference about one hundred fifty and five miles.

(3) The Air is temperate, though somewhat thick by reason of the Seas, and the many Rivers that through the Shire do fall, whose plenty of Fish, and fruitfull increase, do manifoldly redeem the harmes which they make.

(4) The Soyl is rich sor Corn and Cattel, pleasant for Pasturage, and as plenteous for Woods; in a word, in all Commodities either for Sea or Land, blessed and happy.

(5) Havens it hath, and those Commodities both to let in, and to lose out Ships of great bur∣den in trade of Merchandise, or other imployments: whereof Portsmouth, Tichfield, Hamble, and South-hampton are chief: Besides many other creeks that open their bosoms into those Seas, and the Coast strengthened with many strong Castles, such as Hurst, Calshot, South-hampton, S. Andrews. Worth, Porchester, and the South Castle, besides other Bulwarkes, or Block-houses that secure the Countrey: and further in the Land, as Malwood, Winchester, and Odiam, so strong that in the time of King Iohn, thirteen Englishmen only defended the Fort for fifteen days against Lewis of Franca, that with a great Host assaulted it most hotly.

(6) Anciently it was possest upon the North by the Segontians, who yielded themselves to Iu∣lius Caesar, and whose chief City was Vindonum, Caer Segonte, now Silcester; and upon the South by the Belgae and Regni, who were subdued by Plausius and Vespasian the Romans, where Titus rescuing his Father, straightly besieged by the Britains, as Dio and Forcatulus do report, was grasped about with an Adder, but no hurt to his person, and therefore taken for a sign of good luck. Their chief Town was Rincewood, as yet sounding the name: and more within Land inhabited the Manures, as Beda calls them, whose Hundreds also to this day gave a relish of their names.

(7) Near Ringwood, and the place once YTENE, from God and peoples Service, to Feast and luxury, thirty six Parish Churches were converted, and pulled down by the Conquerour, and thirty miles of circuit enforrested for his game of Hunting, wherein his sons Richard and Rufus, with Henry the second son to Duke Robert, his first, felt by hasty death the hand of Iustice and Revenge: for in the same Forrest, Richard by blasting of a Pestilent Air, Rufus by shot taken for a Beast, and Henry as Absalom hanged by a bough, came to their untimely ends. At so dear a rate the pleasures of Dogs, and harbour for beasts were bought in the bloud of these Princes.

(8) The general Commodities gotten in this Shire, are Wools, Cloaths, and Iron, whereof great store is therein wrought from the Mines, and thence transported into all parts of this Realm, and their Cloaths and Karsies carried into many foreign Countries, to that Countries great benefit, and Englands great praise.

(9) The Trade thereof with other provisions for the whole, are vented through eighteen Mar∣ket-Towns in this Shire, whereof Winchester, the Britains Caer Gwent, the Romans Venta Belgarum, in chief, ancient enough by our British Historians. as built by King Budhudthras, nine hundred years before the Nativity of Christ; and famous in the Romans times for the weavings and embroderies therein wrought, to the peculiar uses of their Emperours own persons. In the Saxons time, after two

Calamities of consuming fire, her walls was raised, and the City made the Royal Seat of their West Saxons Kings, and the Metropolitan of their Bishops See, wherein Egbert and Elfred their most famous Monarchs were Crowned: and Henry the third, the Normans longest Reigner, first took breath: And here King Aethelstane erected six Houses for his Mint, but the Danish desolation over running all, this City felt their fury in the days of King Ethelbright, and in the Normans time, twice was defaced by the mis-fortune of fire, which they again repaired and graced with the trust of keeping the publick Records of the Realm. In the civil wars of Maud and Stephen, this City was sore sacked, but again received breath, was by King Edward the third appointed the place for Mart of Wool and Cloth. The Caehedral Church built by Kenwolf King of the West-Saxons, that had been Amphibalus, S. Peters, Swethins, and now holy Trinitie, is the Sanctuary for the ashes of many English Kings: for herein great Egbert anno 836. with his son King Ethelwolf, 857. Here El∣fred Oxfords founder, 901. with his Queen Elswith 904. Here the first Edmund before the Conquest, 924. with his sons Elfred and Elsward. Here Edred, 955. and Edwy, 956. both Kings of England: Here Emme, 1052. with her Danish Lord Canute, 1035. and his son Hardicanute, 1042. And here lastly, the Normaus, Richard and Rufus, 1100. were interred; their bones by Bishop Fox were ga∣thered and shrined in little gilt coffers fixed upon a wall in the Quire, where still they remain care∣fully preserved.

This Cities situation is fruitful and pleasant, in a valley under hills, having her River on the East and Castle on the West, the circuit of whose walls are well near two English miles, containing one thousand eight hundred and eighty paces; through which openeth six gates for entrance. and there∣in are seven Churches for divine Service, besides the Minister, and those decayed; such as Callen∣der, Ruell Chappell, S. Maries Abbey, and the Friers without the Suburbs, and Sooke; in the East is S. Pete••s, and in the North Hyde Church and Monastery, whose ruins remaining, shew the beau••y

that formerly it bare. The graduation of this City by the Mathematicks, is placed for Latitude in the Degree 51, 10 minutes, and for Longitude 19, 3 minutes.

(10) More South, is South-hampton, a Town populous, rich and beautiful, from whom the whole Shire deriveth her name, most strongly walled about with square stone, containing in circuit one thousand and two hundred paces, having seven Gates for entrance, and twenty nine Towers for defence, two very stately Keys for Ships arrivage, and five fair Churches for Gods divine Ser∣vice, besides an Hospital, called Gods-house, wherein the unfortunate Richard, Earle of Cambridge, beheaded for treason, lieth interred. On the West of this Town is mounted a most beautifull Ca∣stle, in form Circular, and wall within wall, the foundation upon a hill so topped, that it cannot be ascended but by stairs, carrying a goodly prospect both by Land and Sea; and in the East with∣out the walls a goodly Church sometimes stood, called S. Maries, which was pulled down, for that it gave the French direction of course, who with fire had greatly endangered the Town: in∣stead thereof, is newly erected a small and unfinished Chappel. In this place, saith learned Camb∣den, stood the ancient Clausentium, or Fort of the Romans, whose circuit on that side extended it self to the Sea: this suffered many depredations by the Saxon Pirates, and in Anno 980. was by the Danes almost quite overthrown. In King Edward the thirds time, it was fired by the French, under the Conduct of the King of Sicils son, whom a Countrey man encountred and struck down with his Club, he crying Rancon, that is Ransome: but he neither understandiog his language, nor the Law that Arms doth allow, laid on more soundly, saying, I know thee a Frankon, and therefore shalt thou die: And in Richard the seconds time it was somewhat removed, and built in the place where now it standeth. In this Clausentium, Canute to evict his flatterers, made trial of his Deity, commanding the Seas to keep back from his seat: But being not obeyed, he acknowledged God to be the onely supreme Governour, and in a religious devotion gave up his Crown to the Rood at Winchester.

More ancient was Silcester built by Constantius, great Constantines son; whose Monument (they say) was seen in in that City, and where another Constantine put on the purple robe against Honorius' as both Ninius and Gervase of Canterbury do withess. Herein by our Historians record, the war∣like Arthur was Crowned. Whose greatness for circuit contained no less than fourscore Acres of ground, and the walls of great height, yet standing two miles in compass about. This City by the Danish Rovers suffered such wrack, that her mounted tops were never since seen, and her Hulke (the walls) immured to the middle of the earth, which the rubbish of her own desolations hath filled.

(11) Chief Religious houses within this County erected and again suppressed were these, Christ's-Church, Beaulieu, Wh••rwall, Rumsey, Redbridge, Winchester, Hyde, South-hampton and Tichfield. The ho∣nour of this Shire is dignified with the high Titles of Marquess, and them Earls of VVinchester and South-hampton; whose Arms of Families are as thou seest, and her division into thirty seven Hundreds, and those again into two Hundred fifty three Parishes.

[illustration] map of the Isle of Wight

WIGHT ISLAND

VVIGHT ILAND.

CHAPTER VII.

WIGHT ILAND was in times past named by the Romans, Vecta, Vectis, and Vect••sis, by the Britains, Guyth, and in these days usually called by us, The Lsle of Wight, it belongeth to the County of South-hampton, and lieth out in length over against the midst of it South-ward. It is encompassed round with the British Seas, and severed from the Main-land, that it may seem to have been conjoyned to it, and thereof it is thought the British name (Guyth) hath been given unto it, which betokeneth separation, even as Sicily being broken off and cut from Italy, got the name from Secando (which signifieth cutting.)

(2) The form of this Isle is long, and at the midst far more wide than at either end: From Bin∣bridge Isle in the East, to Hurst Castle in the West, it stretcheth out in length 20 miles, and in breadth from Newport haven Northward, to Chale-bay Southward 12 miles. The whole in circumference is about sixty miles.

(3) The Air is commended both for health and delight, whereof the first is witnessed by the long continuance of the Inhabitants in the state of their bodies before they be decayed, and the other for quantity gives place to no neighbouring Countrey.

(4) The ground (to say nothing of the Sea, which is exceeding full of Fish) consisteth of soil very fruiful; yet the husbandmans labour deserves to be thankfully remembred, by whose pains and industry it doth not only supply is self, but affords Corn to be carried forth to others. The Land is plentifully stored with Cattle and Grain, and breeds every where store of Conies,

Hares, Partridges and Phesants, pleasant for meadows, pasturage, and Parks; so that nothing is want∣ing that may suffice man. The middle yields plenty of pasture; and forrage for Sheep; whose wooll the Clothiers esteem the best; next unto that of Leinster and Cotteswold. If you cast your eyes towards the North, it is all over garnished with Meadows, Pastures, and Woods: If towards the South side, it lieth (in a manner) wholly bedecked with Corn fields enclosed, where at each end the Sea doth so incroach it self, that it maketh almost two Islands besides, namely, Freshwater Isle, which looketh to the West, and Binbridge Isle, answering it to the East.

(5) The Commodities of the whole chiefly consist of Cattle, Sea fowl, Fish, and Corn, whereof it hath sufficient: Woods are not here very plentiful; for that it is only stored with one little Forrest; yet the Countrey of Hant-shire for vicinity of Site, is a friendly neighhour in that behalf; so (as it were being tyed together in affinity) they are always ready and propense to add to each others wants and defects by a mutual supply.

(6) The ancient Inhabitants of this Island were the Belgae, spoken of in the several Provinces of Sommerset-shire, Wilt-shire, and Hant-shire. Such as did then possess it were called Lords of the Isle of Wight, till it fell into the Kings hands, by Roger (Son to William Fits Osburne, slain in the war of Flanders) that was driven into exile. And Henry the first King of England gave it unto Richard Rid∣vers, with the Fee or Inheritance of the Town of Christs-Church, where (as in all other places) he built certain Fortresses.

(7) The Principal Market-Town in the Isle of Newport, called in times past Medena; and No∣vus Burgus de Meden; that is, The new Burgh of Meden, whereof the whole Countrey is divided into East-Meden, and West-Meden. A Town well seated, and much frequented; unto whose Burgesses his Majesty hath lately granted the choice of a Major, who with his brethren do govern accord∣ingly. It is populous with Inhabitants, having an entrance into the Isle from the Haven, and a

Passage for Vessels of small burden unto the Key. Not far from it, is the Castle Caresbrook, whose founder is said to have been Whitgar the Saxon, and from him called VVhite-Garesburgh: but now made shorter for easier pronunciation; the graduation whereof for Latitude is in the degree 50, 36 minutes: and her Longitude in 19, 4 minutes, where formerly hath stood a Priory, and at Quarre a Nunnery; a necessary neighbour to those Penitentiaries. And yet in their merry mood the Inhabitants of this Island do boast, that they were happier then their neighbour Countries for that they never had Monk that ever wore hood, Lawyer that cavelled, nor Foxes that were craft••.

(8) It is reported, that in the year of mans Salvation, 1176. and twenty three of King Henry the second, that in this Island it rained a showre of bloud, which continued for the space of 2 hours together, to the great wonder and amazement of the people that beheld it with fear.

(9) This Isle of Wight is fortified both by Art and Nature, for besides the strength of Artificial Forts and Block houses (wherewith it is well furnished) it wants not the Assistants of natural Fences, as being enriched with a continual ridge and range of craggy Cliffs and Rocks, and Banks very dangerous for Saylers, as the Needles, so called by reason of their sharpness: The Shingl••s, Mixon, Brambles, &c.

(10) Vespasian was the first that brought it to the subjection of the Romans, whilest he served as a private person under Claudius Caesar. And Cerdic was the first English Saxon that subdued it, who granting it unto Scuffe and VVhitgar, they joyntly together slew (almost) all the British Inhabi∣tants (being but few of them, there remaining) in the Town aforesaid, called of his name VVhit∣garesburgh. VVolpher King of the Mercians reduced this Island afterwards under his obedience, and at that ••ime when he became God-father to Edelwalch King of the South Saxons, and answered fo•• ••im at his Baptisme; he assigned it over unto him with the Province also of the Menuari. But when

Edelwalch was slain, and Arvandus the petty King of the Island was made away, Caedwalla King of the West-Saxons annexed it to his Dominion, and in a tragical and lamentable Massacre put to the sword (almost) every mothers child of the in-born Inhabitants.

The thing that is best worthy note and observation is this, That Bishop Wilfrid was the first that instructed the Inhabitants of this Island in Christian Religion, and brought them from Idolatrous Superstition, with the which (unto that time) they were obscurely blinded.

For Ecclesiastical Iurisdiction, this Countrey belongeth to the Bishop of Winchester, and for Civil government to the County of South-hampton. It is fortified with the strength of six Castles, traded with three Market-Towns, and hath 36 Parish-Churches planted in it.

[illustration] map of Dorsetshire

Dorcet Shire

DORCESTER-SHIRE.

CHAPTER VIII.

DORCESTER, from her ancient people DUROTRIGES, is most likely to have received that name: By the Britains called DWRGWEIR, lieth bounded upon the North side with Sommerset and Wilt-shire, upon the West with Devon-shire, and some part with Sommerset; upon the East altogether with Hamp-shire: and her South part is wholly bounded with the British Seas.

(2) The form grows wider from the West, and spreads her self the broadest in the midst, where it extends to twenty four miles, but in length is no less than forty four: The whole in Circumference about, is one hundred and fifty miles.

(3) The Air is good, and of an healthful constitution: the soyl is fat, affording many com∣modities, and the Countrey most pleasant in her situation: for the In-land is watered with many sweet and fresh running-Springs, which taking passage through the plain Vallies, do lastly in a lo∣ving manner unite themselves together, and of their many branches make many big bodied streams: neither doth the Sea deny them entrance, but helpeth rather to fill up their Banks, where∣by V••ssels of Burthen discharge their rich Treasures, and her self with open hand distributeth her gifts all along the South of the Shore▪

(4) Antiently it was possest by the Durotriges, whom Ptolomy placeth along in this Tract, who being subdued by the Romans yielded them room, and unwilling subjection. After them the Sax∣ons set foot in these parts, whereof Portland seemeth from that Port to take name, who in this place arrived in Anno 703. and did sorely infect and annoy all the South Tract. And at Bindon before him

Kinegillus King of the West-Saxons, in the year of Christ 614, in a doubtfull and dangerous Batte•• vanquished the Britains. Neither were the Saxons so surely herein seated, but that the Danes sought to defeat them thereof: for twice these bold Rovers landed at Chartmouth, the first was in Anno 831. and reign of King Egbert; and the other eight years after, when Elthelwolfe was King: in both which they went away Victors. Yet when the Iron-side wore the English D••adem, and these fierce people ••ought to pluck it from his Helmet, he met them at Pen-ham in Gillingham Forrest, and with a small power obtained a great victory, causing their King Canute with discourage to retire.

(5) Commodities arising in this County are chiefly Wools and Woods in her North, where the Vorrests are stored with the one, and the pleasant green Hills with the other. The other part is o∣ver-spread both with Corn and Grass, and the Sea yieldeth the Isidis Plocamos, a Shrub growing not unlike the Corral without any leafe; besides her other gifts, turning all to great gain: which the more is made manifect by the many Market-Towns in this Shire, whereof Dorchester is the chief, in Antonius his Itinerarum termed Durnovaria, situated upon the South side of Frome, and the Roman Causey called Fosse-way, wherein some of their Legions kept, as by the Rampiers and Co••ns there daily digged up is probably conjectured; at which time it seemeth the City was walled, where∣of some part yet standeth, especially upon the West and South sides, and the Tract and Trench most apparent in a Quadrant-wise almost meeteth the River, containing in circuit one thousand and seven hundred paces, but were cast down by the Daues, whose trampling feet destroyed all things wheresover they came, and hands here razed the Trenches Maudbury and Poundbury, the seals of their Siege, and signs of times misery. About three hundred paces South-ward from hence, stand∣eth an old Fortification of Earth, trenched about and mounted above the ordinary Plain, thirty paces containing some five Acres of ground; wherein (at my there-being) plenty of Corn grew. This the Inhabitants call The Maiden Castle, having entrance thereunto only upon the East and

West. This is thought to have been a Summer-Camp or Station of ••he Romans, when their Garisons kept the Frontiers of this Province.

The government of this City is yearly committed to two Bayliffs, elected out of eight Magistrates or Aldermen, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and two Sergeants attending them: whence the North-Pole is elevated 50 degrees, 48 minutes in Latitude, and for Longitude is removed from the first West∣point unto the Meridian of eighteen degrees.

(6) Other places also are memorable through the actions therein happening, or antiquities there yet remaining: such is ••adbury, now nothing but a Trench and decayed Castle, hardly seen, though sometimes it was the Court of the West-Saxons Kings. Such also is Cerne, where Augustine the English Apostle brake down the Altars and Idols of the Saxons God HELL, whom they devoutly honoured as the only conserver of their health. Shaftsbury also, wherein one Aquila (whether a Man or Eagle I know not) by our Historians report, is said to have prophesied the future times of this our Empire, and that after the reigns of the Saxons and Normans it should again return unto the government of the British Kings. But with such vain predictions, our Nation is more than once taxed by Philip Comineus the famous French Writer. In this City Edward the son of great Edgar, and one and thirtieth Monarch of the English-men, was interred, being murdered at Corfe, a Castle seated in the Isle of Purbeck, by his Step mother Aelfrith, to make way for her Son to enjoy his Crown: in repentance whereof, and to pacifie Heaven for his bloud, she built the Monasteries of Ambresbury and Whorwell, in the County of Wilt-shire and South-hampton. In the former of which with great peni∣tency she spent the rest of her life.

(7) As upon the like occasion the Monastery of Middleton was laid in this Shire by King E∣thelstan to appease the Ghost of Edwin his innocent brother, and to expiate the sin of his own soul for the bloud of that just Prince, whom most unjustly he caused to die: and with the like de∣votion,

thought not to satisfie for the like bloudy sins, did Queen Cuthburga sue a Divorce from her seco••d husband the Northumberlands King, and at Winburne built her a Nunnery, whereof her self became Abbesse, where afterward was raised a most stately Minster, which added not only more glory to the place, but withall enlarged the name, and made it to be called Winburn-Minster, where King Etheldred, a most vertuous Prince, after much disquietness had with the Danes, in peace here resteth, with his Tombe and ins••ription, as in his History (Christ assisting) shall be further seen. Neither among these may I omit Sherburne, which in the year of grace, 704. was made a Bishops See, in whose Cathedral Church was interred the bodies of Ethelbald and Ethelbert, brethren, both of them Monarchs of the English men.

(8) Seven more besides these were set apart from worldly impolyments, consecrated onely to God and his service in this Service; which were Camestern, Cranburn, Abbottesbury Bindon, Sturminster, Tarrant and Warham. These with the others came to their full period under the hand of King Henry the Eighth, which lay with such weight upon their fair buildings, that he crushed the juyce there∣of into his own Coffers.

(9) Castles for defence in repair and decayed, were at Sherburne, Dorchester, Branksey, Portland, Corfe, Newton, Woodford, and Wareham; so that with these and others the County hath been strength∣ned, with twelve Religious Houses their poor relieved, with eighteen Market-Towns at this day is traded, and principally into five divisions parted, subdivided into thirty four Hundreds, and them again into two hundred forty eight Parishes.

[illustration] map of Devonshire

DEVONSHIRE

P. Kaerius caelavit.

DEVON-SHIRE.

CHAPTER IX.

DEVON-SHIRE, by the Cornish Britains called Devinan; and by contraction of the vulgar Denshire, is not derived from the Danes, as some would have it, but from the people Danmonii, the same we will speak of in Cornwall, and whom Ptolomy hath seated in these Western Borders.

(2) The West of this County is bounded altogether by the River Tamer: the East is held in with the verge of Sommerset-shire; and the North and South sides are washed wholly with the British and Severn Seas: betwixt whose shoares from Cunshire in the North unto Salcombe Haven en∣tering in at the South, are fifty five miles: and from the Hartland Point West, to Thorncombe East, are fifty four: the whole in circumference about two hundred and two miles.

(3) The Air is sharp, healthful and good: the Soyl is hilly, woody and fruitful, yet so as the ha••d of the Manurer must never be idle, nor the purse of the Farmer never fast shut, especially of them that are far from the Sea, whence they fetch a sand with charge and much travel, which being spread upon the face of the earth, bettereth the leanness thereof for grain, and giveth life to the Glebe with great efficacy.

(4) As Cornwall, so this hath the same Commodities that arise from the Seas: and being more in∣la••ded hath more commodious Havens for Shippings entercourse, among whom Totnes is famous for Brutes first entrance, if Geffry say true, or if Havillan the Poet took not a Poetical liberty, when speaking of Brute, he wrote thus:

The Gods did guide his sail and course: the winds were at command: And Totnes was the happy shour where first he came on land.

But with more credit and lamentable event, the Danes at Teigne-mouth first entred for the invasion of this Land, about the year of Christ 787, unto whom Britrik King of the West-Saxons sent the Steward of his house to know their intents, whom r••sistantly they slew: yet were they forced back to their Ships by the Inhabitants, though long they stayed not, but eagerly pursued their begun enter∣prises.

With more happy success hath Plimouth set forth the purchasers of same, and stopped the entrance of Englands Invaders, as in the reign of that eternized Queen, the ••irrour of Princes, Elizabeth of everlasting memory; for from this Port Sir Francis Drake, that potent man at Sea, setting forth Anno 1577 in the space of two years and ten months did compass the circle of the earth by Sea. And the Lord Charles Howard, Englands high Admiral, did not only from hence impeach the en∣trance of the proud invincible Spanish Navy, intending invasion and subversion of State, but with his Bullets so signed their passage, that their sides did well shew in whose hands they had been, as seals of their own shame, and his high honour.

(5) The Commodities of this Shire consist much in Wools and Clothings, where the best and fi∣nest Kersies are made in the Land. Corn is most plenteous in the fruitful Vallies, and Cattle spread∣ing upon the topped Hills; Sea-Fish and Fowl exceedingly abundant. Veins of Lead, yea and some of Silver in this Shire are found: and the Load-stone (not the least for use and esteem) from the Rocks upon Dart-more hath been taken. Many fresh Sp••ings bubble from the Hills in this Province, which with a longing desire of Society search out their passage, till they meet and conjoyn in the Vallies, and gathering still strength with more branches, lastly grow bodies able to bear Ships into the Land, and to lodge them of great burthen in their bosoms or Falls: whereof Tamer, Tave, and Ex are the fairest and most commodious.

(6) Upon which last the chief City and shire Town of this County is seated, and from that

River hath her name Excester: this City by Ptolomy is called Isca; by the Itinerary of Antonius Em∣perour, Isca Danmonioram; and by the Welsh Pencaer. It is pleasantly seated upon the gentle ascent of an hill, so stately for building so rich with inhabitants, so frequent for commeree and concourse of stran∣gers, that a man can desire nothing but there it is to be had, saith VVilliam of Malmesbury. The walls of this City first built by King Athelstane, are in a manner circular or round, but towards the Ex rangeth almost in a straight line, having six Gates for entrance, and many Watch-Towers interposed be∣twixt, whose compass containeth about fifteen hundred paces; upon the East part of this City standeth a Castle of Rugemont, sometimes the Palace of the VVest-Saxon Kings, and after them of the Earls of Cornwall, whose Prospect is pleasant unto the Sea, and over against it a most magnificent Cathedral Church, founded by King Athelstane also, in the honour of S. Peter, and by Edward the Confessor made the Bishops See, which he removed from Crediton or Kirton in this County unto the City of Excester (as saith the private History of that place:) whose dilapidations the reverend Fa∣ther in God VVilliam now Bishop of the Diocess, with great cost hath repaired; whom I may not name without a most thankful remembrance for the great benefits received by his carefull providence towards me and mine. This City was so strong, and so well stored of Britains, that they held out a∣gainst the Saxons for 465 years after their first entrance, and was not absolutely won until Athel∣stane became Monarch of the whole, who then peopled it with his Saxons, and enriched the beau∣ty thereof with many fair buildings; but in the times of the Danish desolation, this City with the rest, felt their destroying hands; for in the year 875 it was by them sore afflicted, spoiled, and shaken, and that most grievously by Swane in the year of Christ Iesus 1003. who razed it down from East to West, so that scarcely had it gotten breath before VVilliam the bastard of Normandy be∣sieged it, against whom the Citizens with great manhood served, till a part of the wall fell down of it self, and that by the hand of Gods providence, saith mine Author: Since when it hath been

three times besieged, and with valiant resistance ever defended. The first was by Hugh Courtney, Earl of Devonshire, in the civil broiles betwixt Lancaster and York: Then by Perkin VVarbeck, that counterfeited Richard Duke of York: And lastly, by the Cornish Rebels, wherein although the Citizens were grievously pinched with scarcity, yet continued they their faithful allegiance unto King Edward the sixth; and at this day flourisheth in tranquility and wealth, being governed by a Major, twenty four Brethren, with a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and other Officers their Attendants. This Cities graduation is set in the degree of Latitude from the North Pole 50 and 45 scruples: And for Longitude from the West, to the degree 16, and 25 scruples. Neither is Ioseph that excellent Poet, whose birth was in this City, the least of her Ornaments, whose Writings bear so great credit, that they were divulged in the German Language under the name of Cornelius Nepos.

The like credit got Crediton in her birth child VVinifred the Apostle of the Hassians, Thuringers, and Frisians of Germany, which were converted by him unto Gospel and knowledge of Christ.

(7) Places memorable in this County remaining for signs of Battles, or other antiquities, are these: Upon Exmore certain Monuments of Antick-work are erected, which are stones pitched in order, some Triangle-wise, and some in round compass: These no doubt were trophies of Victories there obtained, either by the Romans, Saxons, or Danes, and with Danish Letters one of them is in∣scribed, giving direction to such as should travel that way. Hublestowe likewise near unto the mouth of ••awe, was the burial place of Huba the Dane, who with his Brother Hungar, had harried the English in divers parts of the Land: But lastly, was there encountred with, and slain by this Shires Inhabitants, and under a heap of copped stones interred, and the Banner Reasen there and then taken, that had so often been spread in the Danes quarrel, and wherein they reposed no small confidence for success.

(8) A double dignity remaineth in this County, where Princes of State have born the Ti∣tles both of Devon-shire and Excester: of which City, there have been entituled Dukes, the last of whom, namely, Henry Holland, Grand-child to Iohn Holland, half-brother to King Richard the Second; siding with Lancaster against Edward the fourth, whose Sister was his wife, was driven to such misery, as Philip Comineus repotteth, that he was seen all torn and bare-footed to beg his living in the Low Countries: And lastly, his body was cast upon the shore of Kent (as if he had perished by ship-wrack) so certain is Fortune in her endowments, and the state of man, notwithstanding his great birth.

(9) Religious Houses in this Shire built in devotion, and for Idolatry pulled down, were at Excester, Torhay, Tanton, Tavestokes, Kirton, Hartland, Axminster, and Berstuble.

(10) And the Counties divisions are parted into thirty three Hundreds, wherein are seated thirty seven Market-Towns, and three hundred ninety four Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Cornwall

Cornwaile

CORNVVALL.

CHAPTER X.

CORNWALL (as Matthew of Winchester affirmeth) is so named partly from the form, and partly from her people: for shooting it self into the Sea like an Horn (which the Britains call K••rne) and inhabited by them whom the Saxons named Wallia; of these two com∣pounded words it became Cornwallia. Not to trouble the Reader with the Fable of Corinnus cousin to King Brute, who in free gift received this County in reward of his prowess, for wrestling with the Giant Gogmagog, and breaking his neck from the Cliffe of Dover, as he of Monmouth hath fabuled.

(2) Touching the temperature of this County, the Air thereof is cleansed as with Bellowes, by the Billowes that ever work from off her environing Seas, where thorow it becometh pure and sub∣tile, and is made thereby very healthful, but withall so piercing and sharp, that it is apter to pre∣serve than to recover health. The Spring is not so early as in more Eastern parts; yet the Summer with a temperate heat recompenseth his ••low fostering of the fruits with their most kindly ripening. The Autumne bringeth a somewhat late Harvest: and the Winter, by reason of the Seas warm breath, maketh the cold milder than else-where. Notwithstanding that Countrey is much subject to stormy b••asts, whose violence hath freedome from the open waves, to beat upon the dwellers at Land, leaving many times their houses uncovered.

(3) The Soyl for the most part is lifted up into many hills, parted asunder with narrow and short val••••es, and a shallow earth doth cover their outside, which by a Sea weed called Orewood, and a certain kind of fr••••sul Sea-sand, they make so rank and batten, as is uncredible. But more are

the riches that out of those hills are gotten from the Mines of Copper and Tinn; which Countrey was the first, and continueth the best stored in that merchandize, of any in the world. Timaeus the Histo∣rian in Pliny reporteth, that the Britains fetched their Tinn in Wicker boats, stitched about with Leather. And Diodorus Siculus of Augustus Caesars time writeth, that the Britains in this part digged Tin out of stony ground, which by Merchants was carried into Gallia, and thence to Narborne, as it were to a Mart. Which howsoever the English Saxons neglected, yet the Normans made great benefit thereof, especi∣ally Richard brother to King Henry the third, who was Earl of Cornwall, and by those Tinn-works became exceedingly rich: for the incursions of the Moores having stopped up the Tinn-Mines in Spain, and them in Germany not discovered before the year of Christ 1240. these in Cornwall supply∣ed the want in all parts of the world. This Earl made certain Tinn-Laws which with liberties and priviledges were confirmed by Earl Edmund his son. And in the days of King Edward the third, the Common-weale of Tinn-works from one body was divided into four, and a Lord Warden of the Stanniers appointed their Iudge.

(4) The Borders of this Shire on all parts but the East, is bound in with the Sea: and had Tamer drawn his course but four miles further to the North, betwixt this County and Devonshire, it might have been rather accounted an Island, than stood with the Mayne. Her length is from Launston to the Lands-end, containing by measure 60 miles: and the broadest part stretching along by the Tamer, is fully forty, lessening thence still lesser like a horn.

(5) The Antient inhabitants known to the Romans, were the Danmonii, that spread themselves further into Devon-shire also, by the report of Diodorus Sicul••••, a most courteous and civil people: and by Michael their Poet extolled for valour and strength of limbs: nor therein doth he take the liberty that Poets are allowed, to add to the subject whreof they write, but truly repotteth what we see by them performed, who in activity surmount many other people.

When the Heathen Saxons had seated themselves in the best of this Land, and forced the Christian Britains into these rocky parts, then did Cornwall abound in Saints, unto whose honour most of the Churches were erected, by whose names they are yet known and called. To speak nothing of Visula that Counties Dukes daughter, with her company of canonized Virgin-Saints, that are now reputed but to trouble the Calender. These Britains in Cornwall so fenced the Countrey, and defended them∣selves, that to the reign of Athelsta••e they held out against the Saxons, who subduing those Western Parts, made Tamer the Bounder betwixt them and his English, whose last Earl of the British Bloud was called Candorus.

(6) But William the Bastard created Robert (his half-brother by Herlotta their mother) the first Earl of the Normans race: and Edward the Black Prince, the ninth from him, was by his Father King Edward the third invested the first Duke of Cornwall, which Title ever since hath continued in the Crown.

(7) The Commodities of this Shire, ministred both by Sea and Soile, are many and and great; for besides the abundance of Fish, that do suffice the Inhabitants, the Pilchard is taken, who in great shuls swarm about the Coast, whence being transported to France, Spain, and Italy, yield a yearly revenue of gain unto Cornwall: wherein also Copper and Tinn so plentifully grow in the utmost part of this Promontory, that at a low water the veins thereof lie bare, and are seen: and what gain that commodity begets, is vulgarly known. Neither are these Rocks destitute of Gold nor Silver, yea and Diamonds shaped and pointed Angle wise, and smoothed by Nature her self, whereof some are as big as Wallnuts, inferiour to the Orient only in blackness and hardness.

Many are the Ports, Bayes, and Havens that open into this Shire, both safe for arrivage, and com∣modious transport; whereof Falmouth is so copious, that an hundred Ships may therein ride at An∣chor apart by themselves, so that from the tops of their highest Masts, they shall not see each other, and lie most safely under the Winds.

(8) This County is fruitful in Corn, Cattle, Sea-fish, and Fowl: all which, with other provision for pleasures and life, are traded thorow twenty two Market-Towns in this Shire, whereof Lauston and Bodman are the best; from which last, being the middle of the Shire, the Pole is elevated to the degree of Latitude 50, 35 minutes, and for Longitude from the first West-Point 15, 13 minutes, as Mercat••r hath measured them.

(9) Memorable matters both for antiquity and strangeness of sight, are these; At Boskenna upon the South west of her Promontory, is a trophy erected, which are eighteen Stones placed round in compass, and pitched twelve foot each from others, with another far bigger in the very center: These do shew some victory there attained, either by the Roman, or else King Athelstan. At the foot of the Rock near unto S. Michaels M••••nt, in the memory of our Fathers, were digged up Spear∣heads, Axes, and Swords of Brass, wrapped in linen, the weapons that the Cimbrians and ancient Britains anciently used.

At Camelford likewise pieces of Armours both for horse and man, are many times found in digging of the ground, imputed to the signs of that fight wherein Mordred was slain, and wherein great Arthur received his deaths wound. And at Castle Dennys are the Trenches wherein the Danes lodged when they first minded to subdue the Land. In the Parish S. Clare, two stones are pitched, one of them inscribed with a strange Character, and the other called The other half stone. The Hurlers also, fabuled to be men metamorphosed into stones; but in truth shew a note of some victory, or else are so set for Land-marks Bounders. There also the Wring-Cheese doth shew it self, which a••e huge Rocks heaped one upon another, and the lowest of them the least, fashioned like a Cheese, l••∣ing pressed under the rest of those Hills, which seem••th very dangerous to be passed under. But near to Pensans, and unto Mounts bay, a far more strange Rock standeth, namely, Main-Amber, which

lyeth mounted upon others of meaner size, with so equal a counterpoize, that a man may move it with the push of his finger, but no strength remove it out of its place.

(10) Religious Houses built, and suppressed within the limits of Cornwall, the fairest and greatest for account, were Launston, S. Neotes, S Buriens, S. Michaels Mount, and S. Germains, a Bishops See: so was Pedman also, from whence King Edward the Confessor removed it unto the City of Excester.

(11) The division of this Shire is into nine hundreds, wherein are seated twenty two Market-Towns, and 161 Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Somersetshire

SOMERSET SHIRE

Petrus Kaerius caelavit.

SOMMERSET-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XI.

SOMMERSET-SHIRE is both a rich and spacious Countrey, having the Sever•• Sea beating upon it on the North side, the South part bordering upon Devon and Dorset-shires, the West confined with Devon shire, and the East and North-East upon Wilt shire, and Gloucester shire. It took the name of Sommerron (sometime the chief Town of this Shire) whence in the Ancient Historian Asserius, this County is called Sommertunensis, that is, Sommertun-shire.

(2) The form thereof is large, bearing it self still wider as it slretcheth into the middle part thereof, and contains in length from Brackley near unto Frome Selwood Eastward, to Oure in the West, Miles 55. In breadth from Parshut Point in the North, to Chard Southward, is somewhat above forty miles. The whole ciacumference is about 204 miles.

(3) The Air is milde and pleasing, and for the most part subject to such temperate dispositions as the Sommer-season affordeth, whence some have erroniously conceited, that the Region borrowed her name from the nature of her Clime: yet how delightful soever it is in the time of Summer, with change of the season it may well change her pleasing name, and borrow some Winterly deno∣mination; so full of wet, so miry and moorish it is; in so much as the Inhabitants can hardly travel to and fro without their encumbrance.

(4) Howbeit they pass over this with all patience, knowing their ensuing seasonable profits far to exceed any present detriments and displeasures: for as it is fowl, so it is fruitful, which makes them comfort themselves with this Proverb, that What is worst for the Rider, is best for the ••bider: the Soyl and Glebe thereof being very fertile, and every side garnished with Pastures and

delightful Meadows, and beautified with Mannor houses both many and fair; and (in a word) hath every thing in it to content the purse, the heart, the eye, at home: and sufficient ports to give entertainment to commodities from abroad.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants that possessed this Province were the Belgae, who spread themselves far and wide, as well here as in Wilt-shire, and the inner parts of Hant-shire, who being branched from the Germans, conferred the names of those places from whence they came, upon these their seats where they resided.

(6) The general profits of this province are Corn and Cattle, wherewith it is so plentifully sto∣red, as it may challenge any neighbouring County for the quantity to make shew of Cattle so fat, or Grain so rich. Some places are peculiarly enriched by Lead-mines, as Mindiphils, (perchance so called of the deep Mines) by Leiland aptly termed Minerarii, Mineral-hills, which yield plenty of Lead, the most Merchantable Commodity that is in England, and vented into all parts of the world. Some are beautified with Diamonds, as S, Vincent Rock, whereof there is great plenty, and so bright of colour, as they might equalize Indian Diamonds, if they had their hardness: yet being so many, and so common, they are less sought after or commended.

(7) This Countrey is famoused by three Cities, Bath, Wells, and Bristow. The first takes name of the hot Bathes, which Antonine called Aquae Solis, The waters of the Sun; Stephanus, Badiza: we at this day Bathe, and the Latinists Bathonta: a place of continual concourse for persons of all de∣grees, and almost of all diseases, (weence it was sometimes called Akemancester) who by divine pro∣vidence do very often find relief there, the Springs thereof by reason of their Mineral and sul∣phurous passage, being of such exceeding power and medicinable heat, as that they cure and con∣quer the rebellious stubbornness of corrupt humours, in repect of which admirable vertues, some have fabled, that they were first conveyed by Magick Art. To testifie the antiquity of this place,

many images and Roman Inscriptions are found in the walls, which can now be hardly read, they are so worn and eaten into by age. Wells (as Leiland reporteth) was sometimes called Theoderodunum, but from whence it had that denomination he makes no mention, the name it now beareth is taken (as some think) from the River there, which King Kinewulph in his Charter Anno 766 calleth Wel••e, or (as others) from the Wells or Springs which there break forth, and whereupon that See (under whose Iurisdiction is also the City of Bath) hath been anciently called Fontanensis Eccle••••, the Fountain Church: where the Cathedral built by King Inas to the memory of S Andrew, is very beautiful and richly endowed. The City is likewise well replenished both with Inhabitants and seemly buildings. Whose government is managed by a Mayor yearly elected, a Recorder, and seven Masters, having the Assistancs of sixteen Burgesses, a Town-Clerk, and Two Sergeants at Mace. Whose Latitude is 51, 20 minutes, and Longitude 17, 31 minutes. Bristow is not so anci∣ent, as it is fair and well seated: The beauty of it being such, as for the bigness thereof, it scarce gives place to any City of England, and doth worthily deserve the Saxons name Bright-stad: whose pleasantness is the more, by reason that the River Avon scowres through the midst of it, which to∣gether with the benefit of Sewers under all the streets clears the City of all noysome filth and un∣cleanness. It is not wholly seated in this County of Sommerset, but one part thereof in Gloucester∣shire; but because it is an entire County of it self, it denies subjection unto either, having for its own government both a Bishop, with a well furnished Colledge, and a Mayor, with a competent assistance of Aldermen, and other Officers for civil affairs.

(8) This Province hath been the Theater of many Tragical events and bloudy battels: the Danes did grievously afflict Porlock by cruel Piracies, in the year eight hundred eighty six. Yet neer unto Pen a little Village neigbouring upon North Cadbury, Edmund, sirnamed Iron-side, gave them a notable foyle, as he was pursuing Canutus from place, to place, for usurping the Crown of

England. And Keniwach (a West-Saxon) in the same place had such a day against the Britains, that they ever after stood in awe of the English-Saxons prowess. Marianus relateth that not far from Bridge-water, as the Danes were stragling abroad, Ealstane Bishop of Sherbourne did so soyl their Forces in the year 845, as their minds were much discomfited, and their powers utterly disabled. Ninius also writeth that King Arthur did so defeat the English-Saxons in a battel at Cadbury, that it de∣served to be made perpetuously memorable. Neither is Mons Badonicus (now Banesdown) less fa∣mous for Arthurs victories. And King Elfred in another battel not far from hence gave the Danes such an overthrow, as he forced them to submission, and induced Godrus their King to become a Chri∣stian, himself being Godfather to him at the Font. So happy is this Region, and so beholding to Nature and Art for her strengths and fortifications, as she hath a••ways been able to defend her self, and offend her enemies.

(9) Neither hath it been less honoured with beauteous houses consecrated to Religion: such was that of Black Ohanons at Barelinch in the first limit of his Shire Westward: and King Athelsta•• built a Monastery in an Island called Muchelney (that is to say) the great Island, which is between the Rivers Iuel and Pedred, running together, where the defaced wall•• and runs thereof are yet to be seen. King Henry the third also erected a Nunnery at Witham, which was afterwards the first house of the Carthusians Monks in England, as Hinton not far off was the second. But above all other fo•• antiquity, glory, and beauty was the Abby of Glostenbury, whose beginning is fetcht even from Io∣seph of Arimathea, which Davi Bishop of S. Davids repaired, being fallen to ruine, and King Inas lastly builded a fair and stately Church in this Monastery, though it be now made even with the ground, the ruins only shewing how great and magnificent a Seat it hath anciently been; which se∣veral houses were thus beautified by bounteous Princes, for religious purposes, and to retire the mind from worldly services, though blinded times and guides diverted them to superstitious and lewd abuses.

(10) Other memorable places are these: Camalet a very steep hill hard to be ascended, which ap∣pears to have been a work of the Romans by divers Coins dig'd up there, on the top whereof are seen the lineaments of a large and ancient Castle, which the Inhabitants report to have been the Pa∣lace of King Arthur. Ilchester, which at the coming of the Normans was so populous, that it had in it an hundred and seven Burgesses, and it appears to be of great antiquity, by the Roman Caesars Coyns, oftentimes found there. The Church-yard of Avalenia or Glastonbury, where King Arthurs Sepulchre was searcht for by the command of King Henry the second, which was found under a stone, with an Inscription upon it faftned, almost nine foot in the ground. Also Du••stere, where (as is reported) a great Lady obtained of her husband so much Pasture ground in a Common by the Town side, for the good and benefit of the Inhabitants, as she was able in a whole day to go about bare-foot.

This County is divided into 42 Hundreds, for the disposing of business needful for the State thereof, wherein are placed 33 Market-Towns, fit for buying and selling, and other affairs of Commerce. It is fortified with four Castles, and planted with 385 Parishes, for concourse of Divine Service.

[illustration] map of Wiltshire

WILT SHIRE

VVILT-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XII.

WILT-SHIRE, is enclosed upon the North with Gloucester-Shire, upon the East is bounded with B••rk-shire, upon the South with Dorset and Hamp-shire, and upon the West is confronted against partly by Gloucester, and the rest by Somerset-shire.

(2) The form thereof is both long and broad; for from Inglesham upon Thamisis in the North, to Burgat Damarum in the South, are thirty miles; the broadest part is from Buttermer Eastward, to the Shire-stones in the West, being tweuty nine; the whole in Cir∣cumference, is one hundred thirty nine miles.

(3) For Air, it is feated in a temperate Climate, both sweet, pleasant, and wholesome; and for soil (saith Iohn of Sarisbury) is exceeding fortile and plentiful, yea, and that with variety.

(4) The Northern part which they call North-Wilt shire, riseth up into delectable hills, attired with large Woods, and watered with clear Rivers, whereof Isis is one, which soon becometh the most famous in the Land. The South part is more even, yielding abundantly Grass and Corn; and is made the more fruitful by the Rivers Wily, Adder, and Avon. The midst of this County is most plain, and thereby is known and commonly called Salesbnry Plaines; and lie so level indeed, that it doth limit the Horizon; for hardly can a man see from the one side to the other. These Plaines grase an infinite number of sheep, whose fleeces and flesh bring in a yearly revenue to their owners.

(5) Anciently this County was possessed by the Belgae, who are seated by Ptolomy in Hamp-shire, Sommerset shire, and in this Tract; and they (as it seemeth by Caesar) were of the Belgae in Gaul. These

(as some hold) were subdued by Vespatian, Lieutenant of the second Legion under Claudi••, when the foundation of his future greatness was in these parts first laid by his many Victories over the Britains. And herein surely the Romans seated; for besides Ta••esbury Trench, by Tradition held to be his, in many other Forts in this Shire the Tract of their Footing hath been left, and the stamped Coins of their Emperours found, and apparent testimony of their abode.

(6) After them the West-Saxons made it a part of their Kingdom, whose border was Avon, as witnesseth Athelward though the Marcians many times encroched upon them, whereby many great Battles, as Malmesbury tells us, betwixt them were fought, when in the young years of their Heptar∣chie each sought to enlarge his, by the lessoning of the next: but grown unto more ripeness, they assigned their limits by a great and long ditch crossing thorow the midst of these Plaines, which for the wonder thereof is supposed by the vulgar to be the work of the Devil, and is called of all, Wansdike, undoubtedly of Wooden, the Saxons Ancester and great reputed God, where a little Village yet standeth, and retaineth to name Woodens-burg. At this place, in Anno 590, Cea••lin the West-Saxon, received such a foyl of the Britains and his Countrey-men, that he was forced to sorfake his Kingdom, and to end his days in exile, becoming a pitiful spectacle even unto his own enemies. And in this place Ina the West-Saxon joyned Battle with Ceolred the Mercian, whence both of them departed with equal loss. The like was at Bradford by Kenilwalch and Cuthred; at Wilton betwixt Egbert and Beornwolfe; at Edindon where King Elfred was vanquisher of the Danes; and at wilton, where the Danes won the day against him. With as bloudy success, though not happening by sword, was the issue of that Synod assembled at Calne, a small town in this County, in the year of Christ Iesus 977, where being hotly debating for the single life, and against the marriages of the Clergy, what wanted by the word to prove their divorce, was supplyed by a Stratagem, and that very bloody; for suddenly the main timber brake, and down fell the floor with the Nobles and

Prelates, the Gentlemen and Commons, whereby a great number were hurt, and many more slain; onely Dunstan the Prefident, and mouth for the Monks escaped untouched, the Ioist whereon his Chair stood remaining most firm: which confirmed the sentence of their separations, whom God had conjoyned, and became the fall and snare of much incontinency in both sexes.

(7) The chiefest City of this Shire is Salesbury, removed from a higher, but a far more conveni∣ent place; whose want of Water was not so great in the mother, as is supplied and replenished in the daughter, every street almost having a River running thorow her middest; and for sumptuous and delicate buildings is inferiour to none. The Cathedral, a most rich magnificent Church, was be∣gun by Richard Poors, Bishop, and with fourty years continuance was raised to her perfect beauty: wherein are as many windows as there are days in the year, as many cast Pillars of Marble, as there are hours in the year, and as many gates for entrance as there are Months in the year. Nei∣ther doth this City retain true honour to her self, but imparteth hers, and receiveth honour from others, who are intituled Earls of Salesbury, whereof eight Noble Families have been dignified ••ince the Normans Conquest. This Cities situation is in degree, of Latitude 51 10 mi∣nutes, and from the first West point observed by Mercator, 18 Degrees, and 31 Minutes of Longitude.

(8) Over this, old Salesby sheweth it self, where Kenrick over came the Britains, and where C••nutus the Dana did great damage by fire. This formerly had been the seat of the Romans: as likewise was Lecham, as by their Coins digged up is apparent: so were Brokenbridge and Cosham, the Courts of the Saxon Kings. But Fortune long since hath turned her face from all these, as lately she did from many ancient and religious foundations planted in this Province, whereof Malmesbury, was the most famous. I will not with Monmouth avouch the foundation thereof unto Malmutius, but by true Records from Maidulph a Scot, a man of great learning that therein built a Coll, and

led an Hermits life, whereof Beda calleth it the City of Maidulph, and we by contraction Malmes∣bury. Adelme his Disciple and Successor, built here a fair Monastery, which Athelstane the Monarch richly endowed, and left his body after death there to rest. Neither hath any graced this more than William her Monk, in recording to post••rities the Chronicles of our Land, concerning both the Church and Common-weal, wherein himself lived and worte those Histories.

(9) Ambresbury for repute did second this, built by Alfritha King Edgar his wife, to expiate the sin of murder which she committed upon young Edward her son in law, that hers might be King. In this place Queen El••anor widow to King Henry the Third, renounced all Royal pomp, and devo∣ted her self unto God in the habit of a Nun. Other places erected for piety, were at Salesbury, Lacock, Stanley, Wilton, Ivichurch, Parnleg, Bradstoks, Briopune, and Bromhore. These graffs grown to full greatness, were cut down by the Pruiner, least the cankers thereof should infect the whole body (as by them was alledged) and their Revenues bestowed upon far better uses, both for the bringing up of youth, and the Maintenance of estate.

(10) With eight strong Castles this County hath been guarded; in nineteen Market-Towns her commodities are traded; into twenty nine Hundreds for business is divided, and in them are seated three hundred and four Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Berkshire

BARK∣SHIRE

BARK-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XIII.

BARK-SHIRE, whether of the Box woods there sited, according to the censure of Asseriu•• Menevensis, or from a naked and bear less Oak-tree, whereunto the people usually resorted in troublesome times, to confer for the State, I determine not: only the County a long time hath been so called, and bounded with other in manner as followeth: The North part is parted by Thamisis from Buckingham and Oxford Shires; the South near Kenne••, doth tract upon Hamp-shire; the East is confined with the County of Surrey; and the West with VVilt-shire and Glocester-shire is held in.

(2) The form of this Shire doth somewhat resemble a Sandall for a mans foot, lying long wise from East to West, in which part she is broadest, the middle most narrow, and then spreading wi∣der like to the heel: though for her rich endowments and stately magnificence, it may be well ac∣counted the heart of the whole.

(3) The length thereof from Inglesham in the West, to old VVindsor in the East, extendeth unto for∣ty miles; from Ink-pen to VVightham, the broadest part from South to North, are twenty four; the whole in Circumference, about one hundred and twenty miles.

(4) The Air is temperate, sweet, and delightful, and prospect for pleasure inferiour to none; the Soyl is plenteous of Corn, especially in the Vale of VVhite-horse, that yieldeth yearly an admira∣ble encrease. In a word, for Corn, and Cattle, Waters, and Woods, of profit and pleasure, it gives place unto none.

(5) Her ancient inhabitants, by Ptolomy and Caesar, were the Attrebatii, and them of those that descended from Gallia, among whom Comiu•• (conquered by the Dictator) was of good respect,

and could do much with the 〈◊〉〈◊〉, who (as Frontinus reporteth) used this stratagem, though it proved nothing at last: he flyed before Caesar to recover aid of these Attrebatians, light bedded upon a shelf in the Sea, whereupon hoysting his ••ailes as before a fore-wind, gave shew to his pursuer that they were in swift flight; so that hopeless to hail them, he gave over the chase; yet no sooner had Caesar made over among them, but that some of these people, by the name Bibrotes, yielded him subjection, which proved the ruine of all former liberty. But when the Romans had rent their own Empire, and retired their Legion into a narrower circuit, the Saxons set foot where their forces had been, and made this County a parcel of their Western Kingdom.

The Danes then setting their desire upon spoils, from their roaving Pinnaces pierced into these parts, and at Redding fortified themselves betwixt the Rivers Kennet a••d Thamisis, whether after their great overthrow received at Inglefield by the hand of King Ethelwolfe, they retired for their further safety.

(6) This Town King Henry the first most stately beautified with a rich Monastery and strong Castle, where in the Collegiate Chuch of the Abbey, himself and Queen (who lay both vailed and crowned) with the daughter Maud the Empress, called the Lady of England, were interred, as the private History of the place avoucheth, though others bestow the bodies of these two Queens elsewhere. The Castle King Henry the second razed to the ground, because it was the refuge for the followers of King Stephen. From whence the North pole is raised in Latitude 51 degrees and 40 minutes, and in Longitude from the first West-point observed by Mercator 19 degrees and 35 minutes.

(7) A Castle and Town of greater strength and antiquity was Wallingford, by Autonie and Ptolomy called Gellena, the chiefest City of the Attrebatians, whose large circuit, and strong fortifi∣cations, shew plainly that it was a place of the Romans abode, and since in a conceived safety hath

made many very bold, especially when the sparks of Englands civil dissentions were forced to flame in case of the Crown betwixt Maud the Empress and King Stephen, whether her self and associates resorted as their surest defence.

(8) But of far greater magnificence and state is the Castle of Windsor, a most Princely Palace and Mansion of His Majesty. I will not with Ieffery affirm it to be built by King Arthur, but with better authority say, it was so thirsted after-by the Conquerour, that by a composition with the Abbot of Westminster, whose then it was, he made it to be the Kings possesson, as a place, besides the plea∣sures, very commodious to entertain the King. In this Castle that victorious Prince King Edward the third was born, and herein after he had subdued the French and Scots, held he at one and the same time, as his Prisoners, Iohn King of France, and David King of Scotland. Neither was it ever graced with greater Majesty than by the institution of the most honourable Order of the Garter, a signal Ornament of Martial Prowesse; the invention thereof some ascribe to be from a Garter falling from his Queen, or rather from Ioan Countess of Salisbury, a Lady of an incomperable beauty, as she danced before him; whereat the by-standers smiling, he gave the impress to check all evil conceits, and in golden Letters imbellished the Garter with this French Posie, HONI SO•••• QU•• MALY PENSE. And yet that worthy Clarenceaux alledging the Book of the first insti∣tution, finds the invention to be more ancient; as when King Richard the first warred against the Turks, Saracens, Cypres, and Acon, he girt the legs of certain choise Knights with a tack of leather, which promised a future glory to the wearers. The most Princely Chappel thereof is graced with the bodies of those two great Kings, Henry the sixth, and Edward the fourth, whom the whole Kingdom was too little to contain, the one of Lancaster, the other of York, where the rest now united in one mould, with a branch of both those Houses, even King Henry the eighth, who there lieth also inter∣red, and rests in the Lord.

(9) Other places of note in this Shire are Sinodum in the North, and Watham in the East, both of them places of the Romans residence, as by their moneys there oftentimes found appeareth. Nei∣ther was Sunning the least in this Tract, that had been the seat of eight Bishops before the See was translated thence unto Shirburne, or that to Salisbury. Wantage also is not wanting of honour, in bringing to life that learned and most valiant King Ealfred, the scourge of the Danes, and great Mo∣narch of the English. And Finchhamstead for wonder inferiour to none, where (as our Writers do witness) that in the year, a thousand and hundred, a Well boyled up with streams of bloud, and fif∣toen days together continued that Spring, whose waters made red all others where they came, to the great amazement of the beholders.

(10) The riches and sweet Seats that this County affordeth, made many devout persons to shew their devotions unto true piety, in erecting places for Gods divine Service, and their exemptions from all worldly business: such were Abington, Redding, Bysham, Bromehall, Hendley, Hamme, and Wallingford, whose Votaries abusing the intents of their Founders, overthrew both their own Or∣ders and places of professions; all which were dissolved by Act of Parliament, and given the King to dispose at his will.

This Shires division is into twenty Hundreds, and hath been strengthened with six strong Castles, is yet graced with three of His Majesties most Princely Houses, and traded with twelve Market-Towns, and is replenished with one hundred and forty Parishes.

[illustration] map of Middlesex

MIDLE-SEX

MIDDLESEX.

CHAPTER XIV.

MIDDLESEX, so called in regard of the situation as ••eated betwixt the West-Saxons and East-Angles, was sometimes together with Essex and Hartford-Shire, that part and por∣tion which the East-Saxons enjoyed for their Kingdom: it lyeth bordered upon the North with Hartford-Shire, upon the West by Col••••, is severed from Buckingham; the South, by Thamesis, from Surrey and Kent; and on the East from Essex, by the River Lea.

(2) The length thereof extended from Stratford in the East, to Morehall upon Colne in the West, is by measure nineteen English miles; and from South-mines in the North, to his Majesties Mannour of Hampton Court in the South, are little above sixteen miles, the whole Circumference extending to ninety miles.

(3) In Form it is almost square, for Air passing temperate, for Soyl abundantly fertile, and for Pasturage and Grain of all kinds, yielding the best, so that the Wheat of this County hath served a long time for the Manchet to our Princes Table.

(4) It lyeth seated in a vale most wholesome and rich, having some hills also, and them of good ascent, from whose tops the prospect of the whole is seen like unto Z••ar in Egypt, or rather like a Paradise and Garden of God.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants known to Caesar, were the Trinobants, whom he nameth to be the most puisiant in the Land; whose chief City and ••eat yieldeth him subjection, made the whole, with less loss to the Romans, to bear the yoke of their own bondage, and to come in under terms of truce. But when their Forces in these parts were spent, and the Empire shaken by intestine

wars, the Saxons setting their eyes upon so fair a soyl made their footing as sure herein; which lastly with Hartford and Essex, was the portion of the East-Saxons Kingdom.

(6) Five princely Houses, inheritable to the English Crown, are ••eated in this Shire, which are, Enfield, Hanworth, White-hall, S. Iames, and Hampton-Court, a City rather in shew than the Palace of a Prince, and for stately Port and gorgeous building, not inferiour to any in Europe. At Thistleworth once stood the Palace of King Richard of the Romans, Earl of Cornwall, which the Londoners in a tumultuous broile, burned to the ground, many other stately Houses of our English Nobility, Knights and Centlemen, as also of the Worshipful Citizens of London, are in this Shire so sump∣tuously built and pleasantly seated, as the like in the like circuit are no where else to be found. Near unto Thamesis entrance into this County, is kept the remembrance of Caesars entrance over Thamesis, by the name of Coway-stakes, stuck fast in the bottom to impeach his designs; and fur∣ther at Stanes a Maire-stone once stood for a mark of Iurisdiction, that London had so far upon Thame••is.

(7) Which City is more ancient than any true Record beareth, fabuled from Brute, Troynovant, from Lud, Ludstone: But by more credible Writers, Tacitus, Ptolomy, and Antonine, Londinium; by Ammianus Marcellinus for her successive prosperity, August••, the great title that can be given to any: by Britains Londayn; by Strangers Londra; and by us London. This City doth shew as the Cedars among other Trees, being the seat of the British Kings, the Chamber of the English, the model of the Land, and the Mart of the World: for thither are brought the silk of Asia, the Spices from Africa, the Balms from Grecia, and the riches of both the Indies East and West, no City standing so long in fame, nor any for divine and politick government may with her be compared. Her walls were first set by great Constantine the first Christian Emperour, at the suit of his Mother Queen Helen▪ reared with rough Stone and British Brick three English miles in compass; thorow which are now

made seven most fair gates, besides three other passages for entrance. Along the Thame••is, this wall at first ranged, and with two gates opened•• the one Doure-gate, now Dowgate, and the other Billings∣gate, a receptacle for Ships. In the midst of this wall was set a mile-mark (as the like was in Rome) from whence, were measured their stations, for carriage or otherwise; the same as yet standeth, and hath been long known by the name of London Stone. Upon the East of this City, the Church of S. Peters is thought to be the Cathedral of Restitut••••, the Christians Bishops See, who lived in the reign of great Constantine; but since St. Pauls in the West part, from the Temple of Diana, assumed that dignity, whose greatness doth exceed any other at this day, and spires so high that twice it hath been consumed by lightning from heaven. Besides this Cathedral, God is honoured in one hundred twenty one Churches more in this City: that is, ninety six within the walls; sixteen with∣out, but within the Liberties; and nine more in her Suburbs; and in Fitz▪ Stephens time, thirteen Convents of relgious Orders. It is divided into 26 Wards, governed by so many grave Aldermen, a Lord Major, and two Sheriffs, the yearly choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King Iohn, in whose time also a Bridge of stone was made over Thames, upon nineteen Arches, for length, breadth, beauty, and building, the like again not found in the World.

(8) This London (as it were) disdaining bondage, hath set her self on each side, far without the walls, and hath le••t her West gate in the midst, from whence with continual buildings (still affect∣ing greatness) she hath continued her streets unto a Kings Palace, and joyned a second City to her self, famous for the Seat and Sepulchre of our Kings; and for the Gates of Iustice, that termly there are opened; only once a Bishops See, whose title died with the man. No walls are set about this City, and those of London are left, to shew rather what it was, than what it is: Whose Citizens, as the Lacedemonians did, do impute their strength in their men, and not in their walls, how strong soever. Or else for their multitude, cannot be circulated, but (as another Ierusalem) is inhabited

without walls, as Zachary said. The wealth of this City (as Isa once speak of Nilus) grows from the Revenues and Harvest of her South bounding Thames; whose trafique for merchandizing, is like that of Tyrus, whereof Ezekiel speaks, and stands in abundance of Silver, Iron, Tinn, and Lead, &c. And for London her channel is navigable, straitned along with meadowing borders, until she taketh her full liberty in the German Seas. Upon this Thamesis the Ships of Tharsis seem to ride, and the Navy, that rightly is termed the Lady of the Sea, spreads her sail: Whence twice with lucky success hath been accomplished, the compassing of the universal Globe. This River, C••nutus laying siege against London, sought by digging to divert, and before him the Danes had done great harmes in the City, yet was their State recovered by King Elfred, and the River kept her old course notwithstanding that cost. In the times of the Normans, some civil broyles have been at∣tempted in this City, as in the days of King Iohn, whereinto his Barons entred, and the Tower yielded unto Lewis. And again, Wa•• Tyle••▪ herein committed outragio••s cruelties, but was worthily struck down by the Major, and stain in Smithfield. This Cities graduation for Latitude is the degree 51, 45 minutes, and in Longitude 20 degrees, 29 minutes.

(9) In this County at Barnet, upon Easter-day, a bloudy battel was fought, betwixt Henry the sixt and Edward the fourth, wherein was slain one Marquess, one Earl, three Lords, and with them ten thousand Englishmen.

(10) The division of this Shire is into seven hundreds, wherein are seated two Cities, four Market-Towns, and seventy three Parish Churches, besides them in London: where in the Church of Gray-••ry••rs, now called Christ-Chu••ch, three Queens lye interred, which were, Queen Margaret, the D. of Phil. the hardy, King of France, second wife to King Edward the first; the second was Queen Isabel, wife to King Edward the second, and D. to Philip the fair King of France: and the third was Queen Ioan, their daughter, married to David King of Scotland.

[illustration] map of Essex

ESSEX COUNTY

ESSEX.

CHAPTER XV.

ESSEX, by the Normans, Excessa, and by the vulgar Essex, is a County large in compass, very populous, and nothing inferiour to the best of the Land.

(2) The Form thereof is somewhat circular, excepting the East part, which shooteth her self with many Promontories into the Sea; and from Horsey Island to Haidon in the West, (the broadest part of the Shire) are they by measure forty miles; and the length from East Ham upon Thamesis in the South, to Sturmere upon the River Stow in the North, are thirty five miles; the whole in circumference one hundred forty six miles.

(3) It lyeth bounded upon the North, with Suffolk and Cambridge-Shires, upon the West with Hert∣ford and Middlesex, upon the South by Thamesis is parted from Kent, and the East-side thereof is alto∣gether washed with the German Seas.

(4) The Air is temperate and pleasant, only towards the waters somewhat aguish: the soyl is rich and fruitful, though in some places sandy and barren; yet so that it never frustrates the Husband∣mans hopes, or fills not the hands of her Harvest-labourers: but in some part so fertile, that after three years glebe of Saffron, the Land for eighteen more, will yield plenty of Barley, without either dung or other fa••ning earth.

(5) Her ancient inhabitants known to the Romans, were by Caesar called the Trinobants, of whom in the former Chapter we have spoken, and in our History shall speak more at large. But this name perished with the age of the Empire, the Saxons presently framed a new; and with Hertford and Middlesex made it their East-Saxons Kingdom, until that Egb••rt bought this and the whole into an entire and absolute Monarchy: the Danes after them laid so ••ore for this Province, that at ••••••m∣fleet

and Havenet (now S••••bery) they fortified most strongly; and at Barklow, besides the hills mount∣ed for their burials) the Danewort with her red berries, so plentifully grow, that it is held and ac∣counted to spring from the blood of the Danes which in that place was spilt, and the herb as yet is called from them the Danes-bloud; neither yet were they quelled to surcease that quarrel; but at Ash∣downe abode the Iron side in ••ight, wherein so much blood of the English was spilt, that Canutus their King in remorse of conscience, built a Church in the place, to pacifie God for the sins of his people: but when the Normans had got the garland of the whole, many of the Nobles there seated themselves, whose posterities since, both there and else-where are spread further abroad in the Realm.

(6) The Commodities that this shire yieldeth, are many and great, as of Woods, Corn, Cattle, Fish, Forrests, and Saffron; which last groweth with such gain and increase upon her North parts, that from a split Clove much like unto Garlike, a white blewish Flower shortly springeth, from whence fillets of Saffron are gathered before the Sun, and dried, are sold as spice with great gain. From the Islands Canvey, Mersey, Horsey, Northly, Osey, Wallot, and Foulness, great store of Fish and Fowl are daily gotten: and so from their Cattle have they continual increase, which men and boys milk; as well the Ewe as the Kin••; whereof they make great and thick Cheese, sold abroad in the Land, much thereof transported unto other Countries. Their Oysters which we call Walfleet, the best in esteem, and are thought from Pliny to have been served in the Romans Kitchins. But least we should exceed measure in commending, or the people repose their trust in the soyl; behold what God can do to frustrate both in a moment, and that by his meanest creatures: for in our age and re∣membrance, the year of Christ 158. an Army of Mice so over ran the Marshes in Dengey Hundred, near unto South minster in this County, that they shore the grass to the very roots, and so tainted the same with their venemous teeth, that a great Murtain fell upon the Cattle which grazed thereon, to the great losse of their owners.

(7) The chiefest City for account at this day, in this Shire, is Colchester, b••ilt by Collus the Brit∣tish Prince, one hundred twenty four years after the birth of our Saviour Christ (if he of Monmouth say true) wherein his son Lu••ius, Helena, and Constantine, the first Christian King, Empresse, and Em∣perour in the World, were born: which made Nech••m for Constantin•• to sing as he did.

From Colchester there ros•• a Star, The Rayes whereof gave glorious light, Throughout the world in Climates far, Great Constantine, Romes Emperour bright.

And the Romans to the great honour of Helena inscribed her, Piissima Venerabilis August••. But of these we shall be occasioned to speak more hereafter. This City is situated upon the South of the Ri∣ver Coln; from whence it hath the name, and is walled about, raised upon a high Trench of earth, though now much decayed, having six gates of entrance, and three Posterns in the West wall, beside•• nine Watch-Towers for defence, and containeth in compasse 1980 paces; wherein stand eight fair Churches, and two other without the walls, for Gods divine service: S. Tenants, and the Black Fryers decayed in the Suburbs; Mary Magdalens, the Nunnery, S. Iohns, and the Crouched Fryers, all suppressed: within towards the East is mounted an old Castle, and elder ruines upon a Trench containing two Acres of ground, whereas yet may be seen the provident care they had against all ensuing assaults.

The trade of this Town standeth chiefly in making of Cloth and Bayes, with Saies and other like Stuffs daily invented; a••d is governed by two Bayliffs, twelve Aldermen, all wearing Scarlet; a Recorder, a Town Clerk, and four Sergeants at Mace. Whose position for Latitude is in the de∣gree 52, 14 minutes; and for Longitude, in the degree 21, and 50 minutes.

(8) Places of Antiquity and memorable note in this County; I observe the most Famous to be Camolodunum, by us Maldon, which was the Royal Seat of Cunobelin King of the Trinobants, as by his money therein minted appeareth, about the time of our Saviours birth▪ which City afterwards Claudius won from the Britains, and therein placed a Colony of Souldiers, which were called Victri∣••••nsis. This City Queen Bodu••, in revenge of her wrongs razed to the ground, what time she stir∣red their people against Nero, with the slaughter of seventy thousand of the Romans. Of some later and lesser account was Itha••chester, now S. Peters upon the wall, where the Fortenses with their Cap∣tain kept, towards the declination of the Roman Empir••. In the East promontory in this County, in the Reign of Richard the second, the teeth of a Giant were found (if they were not of an Elephant) of a marvellous size (saith Ralph Coggeshall;) and not far thence, in the reign of Elizabeth, more bones to the like wonder were digged up.

(9) I purposely omit the message of a Pilgrim from S. Iohn Baptist, by whom he sent a Ring to King Edward Confessor; for which cause his house took the name Havering▪ seeing the Monks of those times made no great dainty daily to forge matter for their own advantage: who in this Shire so swarmed that they had houses erected at Waltham, Pritelewel, Tiltey, Dunmow, Lecy••, Hatfield-Peve∣rel, Chelmesford, Cogg••shall, Maldon, Earls coln, Colchester, S. Osiths, Saffron-Walden, Hatfield-Bradock••, and more with great revenues thereto belonging, all which felt the Axes and Hammers of destruction, when the rest of such foundations fell under the flail of King Henry the Eighth, who with Hezekiah brake down all these Brazen Serpents.

(10) This Shire is divided into 23 Hundreds, wherein are seated 21 Market-Towns, 5 Castles, 5 Havens, 2 of His Majesties Mannours, and 415 Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Suffolk

SVFFOLCK

SUFFOLK.

CHAPTER XVI.

SUFFOLK, in regard of them which were seated in Northfolk, is a County most plente∣ous and pleasant for habitation. It is seperated from Norfolk, by the Rivers of the lesser Ouse, and Waveney, whose heads meet almost in the midst of her Verge, and that very neer together, the one taking course East, and the other full West, upon which part Cambridge-shire doth wholly confront. The So••th side is severed by Stoure from Essex, and the East together washed with the German Seas.

(2) The Air is good, sweet, and delectable, and in some parts, of some of our best Phy••icians, held to be the best in the Land: the soyl is rich, fruitful, and with all things well replenished; in a word, nothing wanting for pleasure or profit.

(3) The Form thereof is somewhat Cressant, shooting up narrower in the North, and spreading wider towards the South, whose broadest part is about twenty miles: but from East to West much more: for from Easton point (the furthest of this Shire, yea of all Britain, into the Sea) unto great Ouse River, her Western bounder, are forty five miles, and the whole in Circumference, about one hundred and forty six miles.

(4) Anti••ntly this part of the Island was possessed by the Iceni, who as it seemeth by Tacitus, joy∣ned in Amity with the Romans, a mighty people (saith he) and never shaken with wars before the reign of Claudius, but then by Ostorius very vanquished, though not without great slaughter of the Romans; and in a battle against them, M. Ostorius the son of the General, won great honour in sa••ing of a Roman Citizens life; so ready were they to give, and receive Honours to themselves, but sleightly to pass over, and to smother far greater exploits of the Britains: which notwithstand∣ing

long in these parts they could not do; for the wrongs of the Icenians growing intollerable, who by the Roman Souldiers were put out of their rightful possessions, their Princes accounted no better than Slaves, and their Queen whipped in most ignominious manner; under Bod••a they wrought their revenge, as in the History (Christ assisting) shall be further related.

Next to these Icenians, were the Saxons that got their footing into these parts, and of them, this with Norfolk, Cambridge-shire, and the Isle of Ely, was made their East-Angles Kingdom; though as it seemeth ever in subjection, either to the Mercians, or to the Kings of Kent; whose off-spring end∣ing in S. Edmund the Martyr, after the Danes had laid it most desolate, Edward the Elder subdued it unto his West-Saxons Monarchy: and that likewise ending in King Edward the Confessor, many Noble Normans got their possessions in these parts, whose off-spring are plenteously replenished in this Shire to this day.

(5) The Commodities of this Shire are many and great, Whereof the chiefest consisteth in Corn, Cattle, Cloth, Pasturage, Woods, Sea-fish and Fowl; and as Abba Floriensis hath depainted, this County is of a green and passing fresh hue, pleasantly replenished with Orchards, Gardens and Groves: thus he described it above six hundred years since, and now we find as he hath said, to which we may add their gain from the Pail, whose Cheeses are traded not only throughout England, but into Germany, France, and Spain, and are highly commended by Pantaleon the Physitian, both for colour and taste.

(6) And had Ipswi••h (the onely eye of this Shire) been as fortunate in her Sirname, as she is blessed with commerce and buildings, she might worthily have born the title of a City: neither ranked in the lowest row, whose trade, circuit, and seat, doth equal most places of the Land besides.

It seemeth this Town hath been walled about both by a Rampire of Earth, mounted along her

North and West parts, and places of entrance where Gates have stood; which no doubt, by the Danes were cast down, in the year of Iesus Christ, ••991. when they sacked with spoyl all these Sea coasts: and again in the year one thousand, laid the streets desolate, and the houses on heaps: yet after∣wards recovering both breath and beauty, her buildings from Stoke-Church in the South, to Saint Margarets in the North, now contain 1900 paces, and from S. Helens in the East, to S. Matthews Church in the West, are no less than 2120 full of streets plenteously inhabited, wherein are twelve Parish-Churches seated, besides them suppressed; such were Christ-Church, S. Georges, S. Iames, the White, the Black, and Gray-Fryers. The Site of this Town is removed from the Equator, unto the degree 52, 25 minutes: and by Mercators observation, from the first West-points, 22 degrees, 9 mi∣nutes: and is yearly governed by two Bayliffs, and ten Port-men, all wearing Scarlet, with twenty four of t••eir Common-Councel in Purple, a Recorder, a Town-Clerk, five Serjeants, whereof one is for the Admiralty, a Beadle, and Common Cryer, all in blew, with the Towns Arms on their sleeves.

The other eye of this Shire is S. Edmundsbury. By Abbo the Royal-Town, wherein at the day-break of the Saxons conversion, Sigebert King of the East-Angles sounded a Christian Church: and upon the occasion of King Edmunds burial (who at Hoxon was shot to death) hath been ever since called S. Edmundsbury, where was built to his honour one of the fairest Monasteries in the world, begun by King Canute, much affrighted with the seeming appearance of that Martyrs Ghost, who to expiate the sacrilegious impiety of his Father Suenus, enriched the place with many endowments, and offered up his own Crown upon the Holy Martyrs Tomb. For the beauty and buildings of this Abby and Town, let Leyland for me declare: The Sun (saith he) hath not seen a City more finely seated, so delicately, upon the easie ascent of an hill, with a River running on the East side; nor a more stately Abby, either for revenues or incomperable magnificence, in whose prospect appeareth rather a Ci∣ty

than a Monastery, so many Gates for entrance, and some of them brass, so many Towers, and a most glorious Church, upon which attend three others, standing all in the same Church-yard, all of them passing fine, and of a curious workmanship. Whose ruines lie in the dust, lamenting their fall, moving the beholders to pity their case.

Near unto this Town a great battle was fought by Robert Bossu, Earl of Leicester, against his So∣veraign King Henry the second: but was worthily overcome by Richard Lucy, the Kings high Iustice, himself and wife taken, with many Flemings and Englishmen slain.

(7) Other places worthy of remembrance this County affords; such is Exning in the West, for∣merly famous for the birth of S. Audr••y, daughter to King Anna, one of the three names of the Shires division: Renlisham in the East, where Redwald the First Christian in this Kingdom held his Court: and Hadley in her South, where Guthrum the Dane, whom Elfred baptized, was buried. And things of stranger note are the limits of the East-Angles Territories, running along New-market-Heath, vulgarly called the Devils-ditch: the like fable is formerly told by Nubrigensis, that at Wulpes in the heart of this Shire, two green boyes of Satyres kind arose out of the ground, from the Antipodes; believe it if you will: and Ralfe Coggeshall, in the Monuments of Colchester, declareth, that a Fish in all parts like a man was taken near Oxford, and for six months was kept in the Castle, whence after he escaped again to the Sea,

As strange, but most true, was a crop of Pease, that without tillage or sowing grew in the Rocks, betwixt this Oxford and Aldebrough, in the year 1555, when by unseasonable weather a great dearth was in the Land; there in August were gathered above one hundred Quarters, and in blossoming re∣mained as many more, where never grass grew, or earth ever seen, but hard solid Rocks, three yards deep under their roots.

(8) Places separated from common use, and devoted to God and his service by religious Princes, were at S. Edmunds, Ipswich, Ikleworth, Blithborow, Clare, Ieston, Burgh Castle, wherein Sigebert King of the East Angles entered the profession of a Monk: but was thence forced by his people, to fight against the Mercians: in which Battle he was slain. And Dunwich, where Foelix founded his Episcopal See. These with many others in this County were suppressed in the fall of the Monasteries, and their Revenues assumed by King Henry the Eighth.

(9) This Shire is principally divided into three parts, which are called Celdable, S. Edmunds, and S. Andreys Liberties, subdivided into twenty two Hundreds, and them again into 575 Parish-Churches, wherein are seated seven Castles, and twenty eight Market-Towns.

[illustration] map of Norfolk

NORFOLCKE

NORTHFOLK.

CHAPTER XVII.

NORTHFOLK is an Island inclining to an oval form, closed on the South part with the Rivers of Wavenay, and the lesser Ouse, which divides it from Suffolk. On the East and North with the German Ocean; on the West toward Cambridge-shires, with some branches of the greater Ouse; toward Lincolis-shire, with that part of the Neve which passeth from Wisbitch into the Washes.

It containeth in length (from Tarmouth to Wifbitch) about fifty miles. In breadth (from The••ford to Wells) about thirty. The whole Circuit is about two hundred forty two miles.

The Name ariseth from the situation of the people, who being the Norther-most of the Kingdom of East-Angles, are therefore called the Northfolk, as the Souther-most Southfolk.

The Air is sharp and piercing, especially the Champion and near the Sea; therefore it delayeth the Spring and Harvest, the situation of the Countrey inclining thereto, as being under the 53 degree of Latitude.

The Soil diverse: about the towns commonly good; as Clay, Chalk, or fat Earth, well watered, and with some Wood: upward to the Heaths naked, dry and barren: Marsland and Flegge exceed∣ing rich: but Marsland properly for Pasture, Flegge for Corn.

(2) The parts from Thetford to Burneham, and thence Westward, as also along the Coast, be counted Champion: the rest (as better furnished with Woods) Woodland. The Champion aboundeth with Corn, Sheep, and Conies and hesein the barren Heaths, (as the Providence of our Ancestors hath of old disposed them) are very profitable: For on them principally lie our Fould courses, called

of the Saxons (whose institution they therefore seem to be) Paldyocum, that is, Liberty of fold or fo••••∣dage. These heaths by the compasture of the sheep (which we call Tathe) are made so rich with Corn, that when they fall to be sown, they commonly match the fruitfullest grounds in other Coun∣tries: and laid again, do long after yield a sweeter and more plentiful feed for Sheep: so that each of them maintain other, and are the chiefest wealth of our Countrey. The Woodland (fitter for grass) is maintained chiefly by feeding of Cattel, yet well stored with Corn and Sheep.

The Coast is fortunate in Fish, and hath many good harbours, whereof Lynn and Tarmouth be the mother-ports, and of great traffique: Wells and Blackeney next in estimation.

The whole County aboundeth with Rivers and pleasant Springs, of which the Ouse is the chiefest, by whose plentiful branches, the Isle of Ely, the Towns and Shires of Cambridge, Huntington, and the County of Suffolk vent and receive Commodities. The next is Hi••rus or Yere, passing from Norwich to ••armouth, where it receiveth the Bure coming from Aylsham, both of them of great service for water carriages, but very notable for their plenty of fish: for some one man out of an hold upon the Bnr••, hath drawn up ordinarily once a year, between two Nets, above five or six score Bushels of Fish at one draught. The Waveney and the lesser Ouse are also Navigable and of great use. The residue I omit.

(3) The people were anciently called the ICENI, as the also of Suffolk, Cambridge-shire, and Huntington-shire, and supposed to be of them whom Caesar nameth Cenimagni; Ptolomy, Simeni; some Tigeni. Their manners were likely to be as the rest of the Britains, barbarous at those times, as ap∣peareth by Caesar and Tacitus. Neither can I otherwise commend their successors the Saxons; for so also their own Countreyman Ethelward termeth them. Since the entry of the Normans, they have been counted civil and ingenious, apt to good Letters, adorning Religion with more Churches and Monasteries, than any Shire of England, and the Laws and Seats of Iustice (for many ages)

with some excellent men; from whom most of our chief Families, and some of the greatest Nobility of the Kingdom, have taken advancement. And herein is Northfolk fortunate, that as Crete boasted of an hundred Cities, so may she of an hundred Families of Gentlemen, never yet attainted of high Treason. How the Government of this County was about Caesars time, is uncertain, but (agreeable no doubt to the rest of the Britains) under some peculiar Toparch or Regulus, as Tacitus termeth him. The latter Romans held it by two Garrisons, one at Gariannum neer ••armouth; the other at Branodunum, now called Brancastre, both of horse, and commanded by the Comes Maritimi Tractus, as Mercellinus calleth him, and termed after Comes Littoris Saxonici. Upon the entry of the Saxons, this County with Suffolk fell in the portion of the Angles, and about the year five hundred sixty one, were together erected into a Kingdom by Vffa, of whom the succeeding Kings were tituled Vffines. But having suffered many Tempests of Fortune, it was in the year 870, utterly wasted and extinct by Hungar and Hubba the Danes, who overthrew the vertuous King Edmund about Thetford, and after martyred him at S. Edmundsbury. Yet they did not long enjoy it: for King Edward shortly recover∣ed it from them, and annexed it to his other Kingdoms. The Da••es notwithstanding inhabited abundantly in these parts, so that many of our Towns were sounded by them, a••d a great part of our people and Gentry are risen out of their bloud.

(4) This Kingdom of East-Angles was after allotted to an Earldom of that name by William the Conquero••r, who made Radulph a Britain, marrying his Kinswoman, Earl thereof; but gave the greatest parts of this County about Wimonham, Keninghall, Lenn, Burnham, Fulmerstone, &c. to W. de Albany, Pincerne, and W. de Warranna Forrestario, who to strengthen themselves (according to the use of that time) with the homage and service of many Tenants, divided large portions of the same amongst their friends and followers; so that most of the Mannors and Lands in the parts afore∣said, were in those days either mediately or immediately holden of one of them. And as Northfolk

and Suffolk were first united in a Kingdom, then in an Earldom, so they continued united in the Sheriff-wick till about the fifteenth year of Queen Elizabeth.

(5) The Towns here are commonly well built, and populous; three of them being of that worth and quality, as no one Shire of England hath the like, Norwich, Lynn, and Yarmouth: to which for ancient reputation (as having been a seat of the Kings of East-Angles) I may add Thetford, known to Antoninus, Ptolomy, and elder ages by the name of Sitomagus, when the other three were yet in their infancy, and of no esteem: For I accept not the Relations of the Antiquity and State of Norwich in the time of the Britains and Saxons, though Alexander Nevil hath well graced them. Her very name abridgeth her Antiquity, as having no other in Histories but Norwich, which is meer Saxon or Danish, and signifieth the North-Town or Castle. It seemeth to have risen out of the decay of her neighbour Venta, now called Castor, and as M. Cambden noteth, not to have been of mark before the entry of the Danes, who in the year 1004, under Swane their Captain, first sackt, and then burnt it, even in her infancy. Yet in the days of Edward the Confessor it recovered 1320 Burges∣ses. But maintaining the cause of Earl Radulph aforesaid against the Conquerour, they were by famine and sword wasted to 560, at which time the Earl escaping by Ship, his wife upon composition yielded the Castle, and followed. In William Rufus time it was grown famous for Merchandise and concourse of people; so that Herbert then translated the Bishoprick from Thetford thither, made each of them an ornament to other. In variety of times it felt much variety of Fortune: By fire in Anno 1508. By extreme plagues, whereof one in Anno 1348, was so outragious, as 57104 are reported to have died thereof between the Calends of Ianuary and of Iuly. By misery of war was sacked and spoiled by the Earl of Flanders and Hugh Bigod, Anno 1174. In yielding to Lewis the French, against their natural Lord King Iohn, Anno 1216. By the disinherited Barons, Anno 1266. By tumult and insurrection between the Citizens and Church-men: once about the year 1255.

which if Henry the third had not come in person to appease, the City was in hazard to be ruined the second time in Anno 1446, for which the Mayor was deposed, and their Liberties for a while seised. In Edward the sixths time, by Ketts rebellion, whose fury chiefly raged against this City. Since this it hath flourished with the blessings of Peace, Plenty, Wealth, and Honour: so that Alexander Nevil doubteth not to prefer it above all the Cities of England, except London. It is situate upon the River Hierus, in a pleasant valley, but on rising ground, having on the East the Hills and Heath called Mussold for Musswould, as I take it. In the 17 year of King Stephen it was new founded, and made a Corporation. In Edward the firsts time closed with a fair Wall, saving on a part that the River defendeth. First governed by four Bayliffs; then by Henry the fourth in Anno 1403, erected in∣to a Majoralty and County; the limits whereof now extend to Eatonbridge. At this present it hath about thirty Parishes, but in ancient time had many more.

(6) Lynn having been an ancient Borough, under the government of a Bayliff or Reve, called Praepositus, was by King▪ Iohn in the sixth year of his Reign made Liber Burgus, and (besides the gift of his memorable Cup, which to this day honoureth his Corporation) endowed with divers fair Liberties. King Henry the third in the Seventeenth year of his Reign (in recompence of their servi•••• against the out-lawed Barons in the Isle of Ely) enlarged their Charter, and granted them further, to choose a Major Loco Praepositi: unto whom King Henry the eighth, in the sixteenth year of his Reign, added twelve Aldermen, a Recorder, and other Officers, and the bearing of a Sword be∣fore the Mayor. But the Town coming after to the same King, he in the ewenty ninth of his Reign, changed their name, from Maior & Burgensis Lynn Episcopi, to Maior & Burgenses Lynn Regis.

(7) ••••rmouth is the Key of the Coast named and seated by the mouth of the River ••ere. Begun in the time of the Danes, and by small accessions growing populous, made a Corporation under

two Bayliffs by King Henry the thrid, and by his Charter, about the fifteenth year of his Reign, walled. It is an ancient member of the Cinque Ports, very well built and fortified, having only one Church (but fair and large) founded by Bishop Herbert in William Rufus days. It maintaineth a Peer against the Sea, at the yearly charge of five hundred pound, or thereabout: yet hath it no possessions as other Corporations, but like the Children of Aeolus and Thetis; maria & 4 ventos, as an Inquisitor findeth Anno 10. H▪ 3. There is yearly in September the worthiest Herring fishing in Europe, which draweth great concourse of people, and maketh the Town much the richer all the year, but very unsavory for the time. The Inhabitants are so courteous, as they have long held a custom to feast all persons of worth, repairing to their Town.

(8) The Bishoprick of Norwich had first her seat at Dunwich in Suffolk, and was there begun by Faelix, who converted this County, and the East-Angles to the Faith. Being brought out of Bur∣gundy by Sigebert (the first Christian King of the East-Angles) he landed at Babingley by Lynn, and there builded the first Church of these Countries, which in his memory, is at this day called by his Name. The second he built at Sharneburn then of wood, and therefore called Stock Chappel. After Faelix and three of his Successors, this Bishoprick was divided into two Sees; the one with eleven Bishops in succession, continuing at Dunwich; the other with twelve, at Elmham in Northfolk. Then united again in the time of King Edwin, the entire See for twelve other Bishops remained at Elmham, and in the Conquerours time was by his Chaplain Arfastus (being the thirtieth) translated to Thetford, from thence by Herbert (his next Successour save one) bought of W. Rufus for 1900 pounds, and brought to Norwich. This Herbert (sirnamed Losinga a Norman) builded the Cathedral Church there, and endowed it with large possessions. Not far from thence he also builded another Church to S. Leonard, a third at Elmham, a ••ourth at ••ynn, (S. Margarets a very fair one) and the

fifth at Yarmouth before mentioned. By the Cathedral Church he builded a Palace for the Bishops, and founded the Priory there (now converted to Dean and Chapter) and another Priory at Th••t∣ford. Since his time the Bishops See hath immoveably remained at Norwich, but the ancient Possessions are severed from it▪ and in lieu thereof the Abbey and Lands of S. Benedict of Holme annexed to it. The Commodities of this County I have contained in these four Verses.

Ingenio & populi cultu Norfolcia clara est; Hinc fluviis; illinc Insula clausa mari; Qua ratis, & vellus, frumenta, cuniculus, agnus, Lac scatet, & pisces, pabula, mella, crocus.

This Description of Norfolk, I received from the Right Worshipful, Sir HENRY SPELMAN Knight.

[illustration] map of Cambridgeshire

CAMBRIDGE SHIRE

CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XVIII.

CAMBRIDGE-SHIRE, lyeth bounded upon the North with Lincoln shire and North∣folk; upon the East with Northfolk and Suffolk; upon the South with Har••ford••shire and Essex; and upon the West with Bedford and Huntington-shires.

(2) This Province is not large, nor for air greatly to be liked, having the Fens so spread upon her North, that they infect the Air far into the rest: from whose furthest point unto Royston in the South, are thirty five miles, but in the broadest is not fully twenty: the whole in Circumference, traced by the compass of her many indents, one hundred twenty and eight miles.

(3) The Soil doth differ both in Air and Commodities, the Fenny surcharged with waters: the South is Champion, and yieldeth Cor•• in abundance, with Meadowing Pastures upon both the sides of the River C••me, which divides that part of the Shire in the midst, upon whose East-bank the Muses have built their most sacred Seat, where with plenteous increase they have continued for these many hundred years.

(4) For from ancient Grantcester, Camboritum by Antonine, now famous Cambridge, the other brest and Nurse-mother of all pious literature, have flowed full streams of the learned Sciences into all other parts of this Land, and else where: ancient indeed, if their story be rightly writ, that will have it built by Cantaber a Spaniard, three hundred seventy five years before the birth of our Saviour, who thither first brought and planted the Muses. This City Grantcester by the tyranny of time lost both her own beauty and her professed Athenian Students, so that in Beda's days, seven hundred years after the word became flesh, it is described to lie a little desolate City, and as yet retaineth the name, without any memory of circuit by walls.

Of this City, in the year of Christ 〈◊〉〈◊〉 as the Monk of Button doth report, nine Scholars received their Baptism, and became Preach•••••• of the Gospel among the Britains; which (as he saith) happened in the Reign of Hadrian the Emperour. But when the Picts, Scots, Hunnes and Sax∣ons had laid all things waste▪ and with their savage swords cut ou•• the leaves of all civil learning, this as the rest yielded to destruction, and so lay forlorn till the Saxons themselves became likewise civil, when Sigebert the first Christian King of the East-Angl••s, from the example of France, whither he had been banished, built Shools in his Kingdom, and here at Grancester the chief, recalling thi∣ther the Prof••ssors of Arts and Sciences, as the Story recordeth, and Traditions do hold.

But afterwards, as it seemeth, their increase being straightned, the Students complained (as th•• Prophets did to Elisha) that the place was too little for them to dwell in, therefore enlarging more North-ward, seated themselves near unto the Bridge, whereupon the place began to be called Grant∣bridge, though others from the crooked River Came will have it named Cambridge. This place (though sacred and exempted from Mars, as Sylla once spake, when he spared Athens,) the Danes in their destructions regarded no whit, wherein they often wintered after their spoyls, and left the scars of their savage sores ever behind them. And in the year 1010, when Suen in his fierceness bare down all before him, this place was no place for Scholars to be in: Warres loud Alarum ill consorting the Muses mild Harmonies. Yet when the Normans had got the Garland on their heads, and these Danish storms turned into Sun-shine days, Gislebert the Monk, with Odo, Terricus, and Wil∣liam, all three of the like Monastical Profession, in the Reign of King Henry the first, resorted unto this place, and in a publick Barn read the Lectures of Grammar, Logick, and Rhetorick, and Gislebert Divinity upon the Sabbath and festival days. From this little Fountain (saith Peter Blessensis) grow a great River, which made all England fruitful, by the many Masters and Teachers proceeding out of Cam∣bridge, as ont of a holy Paradise of God. The first Colledge therein endowed with Professions was Peter∣house,

built by Hugh Balsham Bishop of Ely, in the year of Grace 1284, whose godly example many others followed, so that at this day there are sixteen most stately Colledges and Halls; for building, beauty, endowments, and store of Students so replenished, that unless it be in her other ••ister Oxford, the like are not found in all Europe.

But at what time it was made an Vniversity, let Robert de Remyngton tell you for me. In the Reign (saith h••) of King Edward the first, Gran••bridge, of a School, by the Court of Rome, was made an Vni∣versity, such as Oxford is. Lastly the ••eridian Line Cut••ing the Zenith over this City, is distant from the furthest West Point, according to Mercator, 20 degrees, 50 scruples, and the Arch of the same M••ridian, lying between the Aequator and Vertical point, is 52 degrees 20 scruples.

(5) Another City formerly in great fame is Ely, had in account for the repute and holiness of Votary Nuns there residing; built first by Audry, wife to one Tombrot a Prince in this Province, who had this place as a part of her Dowry: she having departed from her second Husband •• Egbert King of Northumberland, devoted her self to the service of God, and built here a Monastery, whereof she became the first Abbess. This in the Danish desolations was destroyed, but soon after re-edified by Ethelwood Bishop of Winchester, who stored it with Monks; unto whom King Edgar granted the jurisdiction over four hundreds and a half, within these Fenns and the East Angles limits, which to this day are called. The liberties of S. Audrey: after whose example many Nobles so enriched it with large Revenues, that as Malmesbury saith, The Abbot thereof laid up yearly in his own Coffers a thousand and four hundred pounds. And of later times the Monks thereof became so wealthy, that their old de∣cayed Church they renewed with new and most stately buildings, which is now the Cathedral of the Diocess, and for beauty giveth place to no other in the Land. Eight other foundations set apart from secular use in this Province, were at Thorney, Charteres, Denny, Elsey, Beach, Barnwell, Swasey, and Shengey, all which in the days of King Henry the Eighth came to the period of their surpassing wealth, and left their Lands to the dispose of his Will.

(6) The general Commodity of this Shire is Corn, which in the South and Champion part doth abundantly grow, as also Saffron, a very rich Spice. Some Woods there are, and Pasture both pleasant and profitable. The North part thereof is Fenny, but withal fruitful, whereof Henry of Hunting∣ton, and William of Malinesbury thus do write: This ••enny Countrey is passing rich and plenteous; yea, and beautiful also to behold, wherein is so great store of fish that strangers do wonder; and water fowl so cheap, that five men may therewith be satisfied with less than an half penny.

(7) Places of ancient note in this Shire are these, the Erminstreet-way, which upon the lower West parts of this County, thorow Roiston, runneth forth right unto Huntington. And from Reach a Mar∣ket-Town standing near to the River Come, a great Duch and Trench is cast all along New-Market-Heath, which for the wonder received thereat, is of the vulgar called The Devils Ditch, being in truth made for a defence against the Mercians by the East-Angles, whose Kingdom it inverged. The G••g∣magog Hills near Cambridge retain the memembrance of the Danish Station, where as yet on their tops is seen a Rampier, strengthned with a three-sold Trench, whereof Gervase of Tilbury tells many a pretty Tale.

(8) This Shire is divided into seventeen Hundreds, wherein are seated eight Market-Towns, and hath been strengthened with seven Castles, and God divinely hono••red in one Hundred sixty three Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Hertfordshire

Hartforde Shire

HERTFORD-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XIX.

HERTFORD-SHIRE is bordered upon the North with Bedford and Cambridge-shires; upon the East, is altogether bounded by Essex; upon the South, is confined with Middlesex; and her west butteth upon Buckingham, and Bedford-shires.

(2) The form thereof is somewhat circular, with many indents to fetch in those Towns that are dispersedly stragled into her next Shire: whereof Roiston and Totteridge are the two extreams from North to South, betwixt whom in a straight drawn line are twenty seven English miles, and from Putnam Westward, to Cheston Nunnery in the East, are twenty eight; the whole cir∣cumference, about an hundred and thirty miles.

(3) The Air is temperate, sweet, and healthful, as seated in a Climate neither too hot nor too cold: the soil is rich, plenteous and delightful, yielding abundance of Corn, Cattle, Wood, and Grass, destitute of nothing that ministereth profit or pleasures for life, which are more augmented by ••he ma∣ny Rivers that arise and run thorow this Shire, watering her own and others, till they empty them∣selves into the Sea.

(4) Her ancient Inhabitants in the time of the Romans were the Ca••ieuc••lanians or Cassians, and the Trinobants, as their Writers declare, and in the Heptarchy was possessed by the East-Saxons, ex∣cepting some small portion thereof, that the Mercian Kings enjoyed. The Da••es also in their over∣runnings, sought to stay themselves in this Shire, and at Ware (then Weare) pitched down their rest and hope: for passing the Lea in their light Pinnaces and Shallops, raised therein a Fort, which mangre the English they kept, until that by the wise policy of King Elfred, that River was parted in∣to

more running streams, whereby their Ships perished, and they intercepted both of provision and further supply.

(5) The Romans before them made Verolanium•• in this Shire their greatest for account, which in Nero's time was a Municipal, as Ninius in his Catalogue of Cities doth call it, or as Tacitus, a Freo Town; sacked by Boduo that ever eternized Queen of the Icenians, when seventy thousand of the Romans and Confederates by her revenging sword perished: the site and circuit whereof, in this Card we have set according to our view and measure there taken: whose magnificence for Port and stately Archit••cture, were found by her large and arched Vaults in the days of King Edgar, which were digged into and cast down by Elred and Edmer, Abbots of S. Albans, for that they were the recepta∣cles and ••urking holes of Whoores and Theeves: the ruins of which have raised the beauty of her surviving and fair S. Albans, where Offa the great Mercian, in great devotion, built a most stately Monastery, whose Church yet standing, retaineth the ashes of many Nobles, there slain in the quar∣rel of York and Lancaster; and a Font of solid Brass brought out of Scotland by Sir Richard Lea, from the siege of Leeth.

(6) Many other Towns, both for Commerce, stately Buildings, and of ancient Record, this Sh••••e affordeth, whereof Hertford, though the Shire Town, is not the richest; the passage thorow Ware hath left her ways so untrodden: to prevent which, in former times that River at Ware was chained up, and the Bayliff of Heriford had the custody of the Key: which howsoever they have lost, yet hath the Town gotten her Governour to be preferred from the name of a Bayliff unto a Mayor, assisted with nine Burgesses, a Re••order, and two Sergeants their Attendants. Herein a Castle, for situ∣ation pleasant, for Trench, Walls, and River, sufficiently fenced, was lately seen; but marked to de∣••••iny as the Town to decay, hath found the hand of Fortune to overmatch her strength, and to rui∣nate the Priory, S. Nicholas, and S. Maries Churchos, besides a Cell of S. Albans Monks, that therein

were seated. The like fate falls unto Hensled, and her fair Castle, wherein Richard King of the Ro∣mans left his life. Yet Langley is graced both in the birth of Prince Edmund the fifth son to King Ed∣ward the third, and the burial of Richard the second that unfortunate King, who in the Cell of Friers Preachers was there first buried, but afterwards removed and enshrined at Westminster. And in ano∣ther Langley, near the East from thence, was born that Pontifical Break-speare, Bishop of Rome, known by the name of Hadrian the fourth, (and famous for his stirrup-holding by Frederick the Emperour) whose breath was last stopped by a Flie that flew into his mouth.

(7) The civil Battles that in this Shire have been fought, in the Map it self are inserted, and therefore here omitted, but the more ancient remembred unto us by Oister-hill near S. Albans, whom the ju∣dicious Cambden supposeth to have been the Camp of Ostorius the second Lieutenant, and Subduer of great Caractacus; as also seven small round Hills betwixt Stevennedge and Knebworth, in which are supposed some Roman Souldiers to lie buried.

(8) Religious Houses built and suppressed, the chiefest for account in this Shire, were S. Albans, Roystone, Ware, Sopwell, Langley, besides them at Hertford, whom B••da calls Herudford: which Cities graduation is distant and removed from the Equator 52 degrees, 5 minutes of Latitude, and set from the first point of the West, according to Mercator, in the 20 degree, 29 minutes of Longitude. The Earldoms whereof, were enjoyed only by those two honourable Families, whose atchievements we have also therein expressed.

(9) This Counties division is into eight hundreds, wherein are seated eighteen Market-Towns, and one hundred and twenty Parish Churches.

[illustration] map of Bedfordshire

BEDFORD SHIRE

BEDFORD-SHIRE

CHAPTER XX.

BEDFORD-SHIRE, seated in the South-East of this Island, is a plain and champion Country, and lyeth bounded upon the North with Huntington-Shire; upon the East with Cambridge and Hartford-shires; upon the South with Hertford and Buckingham-shires; and upon the West with Buckingham and Northampton-shires.

(2) The Form thereof is somewhat oval, and not very large: for from Tilbroke in the North unto Studham in the South, are but twenty four English miles; and from Turny in the West, unto Hartly Coking in the East, are not fully fourteen; the whole Circumference, about seventy three miles.

(3) The Air is temperate, and the Soil bounteous, especially in the North, whose Borders the fruitful Ouse with her many windings watereth. The South is more lean, and with greater industry bringeth forth Barley, no better elsewhere. Generally this County is Champion, though some places be sprinkled with Pasturage and Woods.

(4) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, that held in this Shire, were part of the Cattieuch∣lani, a Stout and war-stiring people: and yet upon the report of Caesars proceeding, sent him their subjection for peace. But when that conquering Nation had brought Britain into a Pr••vince under Rome, their Legions lay at Selenae and Magintum, which are now Sandy and Dunstable, places of me∣morable note in this Shire. After them the Saxons coveting for so fair a Seat, first dispossessed the Britains, under the leading of Cuthwulf•• the West-Saxon, about the year of Grace, 572, who making it their own, was lastly enjoyed by the Mercians, as a part of their Kingdom.

(5) In the year of Christs Incarnation 1399, immediately before those Civil Wars, that rent in pieces the peace of this Land, between the Princes of Lancaster and York, the River Ouse near unto Harwood, stood suddenly still, and refrained to pass any further; so that forward, men passed three miles together on foot in the very depth of her Channel; and backward, the waters swelled unto a great height: which was observed by the judicious, to foretel some unkind diuision that shortly should arise.

(6) This County, among the common calamities of the Land, when it lay trampled under the feet of the Danes, sustained a part: and after that in the time of King Stephen, when the Civil Wars thundred betwixt Maud the Empress and himself, the Shire-Town was sore wasted, with great slaughter of men: So when the Barons forsook their allegiance to King Iohn, the Town and Castle were rendred up into their hands: And lastly, by King Henry the third, laid level even with the ground, some ruinous walls appearing towards the Ouse, but not a stone left upon the Mount where stood his foundation.

(7) This Town by the Britains was called Lettidur; and of us, Bedford; being the chiefest in the County, from whom it taketh the name, and is most fruitful, and pleasantly seated, having the Ouse running thorow the Town in the middest, and a fair Stone bridge built over the same, where∣on are two Gates to lock and impeach the passage, as occasion shall 〈◊〉〈◊〉. At the first entrance standeth S. Leonards Hospital for Lazars: and further towards S. Iohns, and S. Maries Churches, within the Town, S. Pauls a most beautiful Church, S. Cuthberts, and S. Peters: without the Town standeth the Friers, S. Loyes, Alhallows, and Ca••dwell Abbey: not far whence, sometimes stood a Chappel upon the Bank of Ouse, wherein (as Florilegus affirmeth) the body of Offa the great Mercian King was interred, but by the over-swelling of that River, was born down, and swallowed up; whose Tombe of Lead (as it were some phantastical thing) appeared often to them

that seek it not, but to them that seek it (saith Rosse) it is invisible. This Town is governed year∣ly by a Mayor, two Bayliffs, two Chamberlains, a Recorder, a Town-Clerk, and three Sergeants with Maces.

(8) A tale of vain credit is reported of Dunstable, that it was built to bridle the outragiousness of a ••heef named Dun, by King Henry the first: but certain it is, the place was formerly held by the Romans, whose Legions there lay, as appeareth by the Coyns there usually found, which from Ma∣gintum are corruptly called Madning-money.

(6) Castles in this Shire are Woodhill, Eaton, Temsford, and Amphill, an honour now appertaining to the Crown. And places of Religion, built by devout persons, but for Idolatrous Abuses again abo∣lished, were at Bedford, Harwood, Helenstow, Newenham, Chicksand, Wardon, Woborne, and Dunstable. All these, with the like, felt the hand of Henry the eighth to lie so heavy upon them, that they were not able to sustain the weight, but were crushed to pieces, and fell to the ground.

(10) The Graduation of this County, taken for the Shire-Town, is placed from the Equator in the degree of 52 and 30 minutes for Latitude, and is removed from the first West point of Longitude, 20 degrees, and 16 minutes.

(11) Whose Princely Families, that have born the Titles both of Dukes and Earls, are expressed; and whose Counties division are into nine hundreds, wherein are seated ten Market-Towns, and one hundred and sixteen Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Buckinghamshire

BUCKINGHAM SHIRE

BUCKINGHAM-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXI.

BUCKINGHAM, for the plenty of Beech-trees there growing, and those in the elder time of the Saxons called Buck••n, may well be supposed from them to have the name, as after∣ward the whole Shire had hers from this Town Buckingham.

(2) In form it somewhat resembleth a Lyon Rampant, whose head or North-point touch∣eth the Counties of Northampton and Bedford; whose back or East part is backed by Bedford and Hertford-Shires: his loines or South-borders rest upon Bark-shire, and his breast th•• West side is butted upon wholly by Oxford-shir••. The length thereof from Waisbury in the South, to Braidfield in her North, are thirty nine miles; the breadth at the broadest, from Ashbridge in the East, to Brenwood Horrest in the West, are eighteen; the whole in Circumference one hundred thirty eight miles.

(3) The Air is passing good, temperate and pleasant, yielding the body health, and the mind content. The soil is rich, fat, and fruitful, giving abundance of Corn, Grass, and Meat. It is chiefly divided into two parts by the Chiltren hills, which run thorow this Shire in the middest, and be∣fore time were so pestered with Beech, that they were altogether unpassable and became a receptacle and refuge for Theeves, who daily endammaged the way-faring man; for which cause Laestan Abbot of S. Albans caused them to be cut down: since when those parts are passable, without any great in∣combrances of trees; from whose tops, a large and most pleasant prospect is seen. The Vale beneath is plain and champion, a clayie soil, stiff, and rough, but withall maruellous fruitful, naked of woods, but abounding in meadows, pastures, and tillage, and maintaining an infinite number of sheep, whose soft and fine fleeces are in great esteem with the Turks as far as Asia.

(4) The ancient Inhabitants ••hat were seated in this Shire, were the Catteuchlani, mentioned by Ptolomy, and them dispersed thorow the Tract of Bedford, Hertford, and this. These yielded them∣selves with the first to Caesar under the Romans subjection, whose over-worn Empire ending in Britain, the Saxons by strong hand attained this Province, and made it a part of their Mercian King∣dom: yet was it first subdued unto them by Cherdike the West-Saxon, whose memory is i••part conti∣nued in the To••n Chersey, upon the West of this Country, where in a sharp and bloudy battle he was Victor over the Britains. So also Cuthwul••e a West Saxon at Alesbury in the year of grace 592, overcame the Britains, and bare down all things before him; yet no sooner was their Heptarchy weaned, and their Monarchy able to stand alone, but that the Danes, before their strength and growth was confirmed, waxed upon them; and they not able in so weak a hand to hold fast that weight of greatness they had so grasped, gave place to their Conquerours, who did many harms in this Pro∣vince▪ for in the year 914, the Danes furiously raged as far as Brenwood, where they destroyed the City Burgh, the ancient seat of the Romans, afterwards a Royal house of King Edward the Confessor, which they utterly destroyed.

(5) The Shire-Town Buckingham, fruitfully seated upon the River Ouse, was fortified with a Rampire, and Sconces on both banks, by King Edward the elder, saith Marianus the Scotish Wri∣ter; where in the heart of the Town hath stood a strong Castle, mounted upon a high hill, which long since was brought to the period of her estate; now nothing remaining besides the signs, that there she had stood. The River circulates this Town on every side, that only on the North ex∣cepted, over which three fair stone bridges lead, and into which the Springs of a Well run, called S. Rumalds, a child-saint born at Kings-Sutton, canonized, and in the Church of this Town en∣thrined, with many conceited miracles and cures: such was the hap of those times, to produce Saints of all ages and sexes. This Town is governed by a Bayliff, and twelve principal Burgesses;

and is in the degree removed from the first point of the West for Longitude 19, 33 scruples, and the North-pole elevated in Latitude for the degree of 52, 18 scruples.

(6) A Town of ancient note is Stony Stra••ford, the Romans Lactorodum, being built upon that an∣cient Causey-way which is called VVatling Street, where remain the marks thereof even unto this day. At this place Edward the elder stopped the passage of the Danes, whilst he strengthened Torcester against them: and herein, King Edward the eldest since the Conquest, reared a beautiful Cross, in memory of Eleanor his dead Queen, as he did in every place where her Corps rested, from Herdby in Lincoln-shire, till it was received and buried at VVestminster.

(7) Places intended for Gods true worship, built by devout persons, and sequestred from world∣ly imployments, were at Launden, Luffeld, Bidlesden, Bradwell, Nothey, Ankerne, Missenden, Tekeford, Patrendune, Asbridge, and Alesbury: Asbridge in great repute for the bloud (supposed out of Christs sides) brought out of Germany by Henry the eldest son of Richard King of the Romans, and Earl of Cornwall, whereunto resorted great concourse of people for devotion and adoration thereof. But when the Sunshine of the Gospel had pierced thorow such clouds of darkness, it was perceived apparently to be onely honey clarified and coloured with Saffron, as was openly shewed at Pauls Cross by the Bishop of Rochester, the twenty fourth of February, and year of Christ 1538. And Alesbury for the holiness of S. Edith was much frequented, who having this Town allotted for her Dowry, had the world and her husband farewel, in taking upon her the vail of devotion, and in that fruitful age of Saints became greatly renowned, even as far as to the working of miracles. These all in the storms and rage of the time, suffered such shipwrack, that from those turmoiled Seas, their Merchandise light in the right of such Lords as made them their own for wreacks indeed.

(8) With four Castles this Shire hath been strengthened, and thorow eleven Market-Towns her Commodities traded; being divided, for service to the Crown and State into eight hundreds, and in them are seated one hundred fourscore and five Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Oxfordshire

OXFORDSHIRE

OXFORD-SHIRE

CHAPTER XXI.

OXFORD-SHIRE receiveth her name from that famous Vniversity, and most beau∣tiful City Oxford, and this of the Foord of Oxen, say our English Saxons; though Leiland upon a ground of conjecture will have it Ousford, from the River Ouse (by the Latines called Isis) which giveth name likewise to the adjoyning I stand Ousney. The North point of this Shire is bordered upon by the Counties of VVarwick and Northampton the East with Buckingham, the West by Glocester-shire, and the South altogether is parted from Bark-shire by Thamisis, the Prince of British Rivers.

(2) The blessings both of the sweet-breathing heavens, and the fruitful sight of this Counties soil, are so happy and so fortunate, that hardly can be said whether exceeds. The Air milde, temperate and delicate; the Land fertile, pleasant, and bounteous; in a word, both Heaven and Earth accorded to make the Inhabitants healthful and happy: The hills loaden with Woods and Cattle, the valleys bur∣thened with Corn and Pasturage, by reason of many fresh springing Rivers which sportingly there∣thorow make their passage; whereof Evenlod, Charwell, Tame, and Isis are chief: which two last making their Bed of Marriage near unto Dorchester, run thence together in one channel and name.

(3) The length of this Shire is from Cleydon in the North-West, unto Caversham in her South-East, near unto Thamisis, and amounteth almost to forty miles; the broadest part is in her Western Borders, which extending from the said Cleydon in the North, unto Faringdon seated upon the River Isis in the South, are scarcely twenty six: and thence growing narrower like unto a Wedge, containing in cir∣cumference about one hundred and thirty miles.

(4) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, where the Dobuni, part whereof possessed further Westernly into Glocester-shire; and nearer Eastward, betwixt the bowing of Thamisis, were seated the Ancalites, who sent their submission unto Iulius Caesar, when report was made that the Trinobants had put themselves under his protection; whereof followed the Britains servitude under the proud yoke of the all-coveting Romans: yea, afterwards this Counties people, being very puissant (as ••acitus termeth them) and unshaken by wars, withsto••d Ostorius Sc••pula the Roman Lieutenant, chosing rather to yield their lives in battle, than their p••rsons to subjection. Of later times it was possessed by the Mercian Saxons, as part of their Kingdom, though sometimes both the West Saxons and the Northumbrians had the dispose of some part thereof: for Beda a••firm••th that King Oswold gave the then flourishing City Dorchester unto Berinus the VVest Saxons Apostle, to be his Episcopal See: whence the good Bishop coming to Oxford, and preached before VVulpherus the Mercian King (in whose Court Athelwold the South-Saxons heathenish King was then then present) he with all his Nobles were converted to the Faith of Christ, and there baptived, whereby Berinus became the Apostle also of the South-Saxons.

(5) Other places of memorable note, either for actions therein happening, or for their own famous esteem, are the Roll-rich stones, standing near unto Enisham in the South of this Shire, a monument of huge stones, set round in compass, in manner of the Stonehenge: of which fabulous tradition hath reported forsooth, that they were metamorphosed from men, but in truth were there erected upon some great victory obtained, either by or against Rollo the Dane, who in the year 876, entred England, and in this Shire fought two battles, one neer unto Ho••k-Norton, and a second at the Scien∣Stane.

(6) Rod••ot likewise remaineth as a monument of Oxfords high•• styled Earl, but unfortunate Prince, Robert de Vere, who besides the ••arldom, was created by King Richard the second, M••••∣quess

of Dublin, and Duke of Ireland: but at that Bridge, discomfited in fight by the Nobles, and forced to swim the River, where began the downfal of his high mounted fortunes; for being driven forth of his Country, lastly died in exile and distressed estate. But more happy is this County in producing far more glorious Princes, as King Edward the Confessor, who in Islip was born; Edward the victori∣ous black Prince, in Woodstock and in Oxford, that warlike Coeur de Lion, King Richard the first, the son of King Henry the second, first took breath.

(7) Which City is, and long hath been the glorious seat of the Muses, the British Athens, and learnings well spring, from whose living Fountain the wholsome waters of all good literature streaming plenteously, have made fruitful all other parts of this Realm, and gained glory amongst all Nations abroad. Antiquity avoucheth, that this place was consecrated unto the sacred Sciences in the time of the Old Britains, and that from Greek-lod, a Town in Wilt shire, the Academy was translated unto Oxford, as unto a Plant-plot, both more pleasing and f••uitful: whereto accor∣deth the ancient Burlaeus and Necham, this latter also alledging Merlin. But when the beauty of the Land lay under the Saxons prophane feet, it sustained a part of these common calamities, having little reserved to uphold its former glory, save onely the famous monument of S. Frideswids Virgin Conquest; no other School then left standing besides her Monastery: yet those great blasts, toge∣ther with other Danish storms, being well blown over, King Elfred that learned and religious Mo∣narch, recalled the exiled Muses to their sacred place, and built there three goodly Colledges for the studies of Divinity, Philosophy, and other Arts of humanity, sending thither his own son Ethel∣ward, and drew thither the young Nobles from all parts of his Kingdom. The first Reader there∣of was his supposed brother Neote, a man of great learning, by whose direction King Elfred was al∣together guided in this his goodly foundation. At which time also, Assereus Menevensis, a writer of those times affairs, read the Grammar and Rhetorick, and affirmeth, that long before them, Gildas

Melkin, Ninius, Kentigern, S. German, and others, spent there their lives in learned studies▪ From which time that it continued a Seedplo•• of learning till the Norman Conquest, Ingulphus ••ecordeth, who himself then lived. No marvel then if Matthew Paris calleth Oxford, the second School of Christendom, and the very chief Pillar of the Catholick Church. And in the Council holden at Vienna, it was ord••ined, that in Paris, Oxford, ••ononi••, and Salamanca, the onely Vniversities then in Europe) should be erected Schools for the Hebrew, Greek, Arabick, and Caldean tongues, and that Oxford should be the general universi••y for all England, Ireland, Scotland, and Wales, which point was likewise of such weight with the Council of Constance, that from this p••••cedent of Oxford Uni∣versity, it was concluded, that the English Nation was not only to have p••ecedence o•• Spain in all General Councils, but was also to be held equal with France it self. By which high pe••ogatives this of ours hath always so flourished, that in the days of King Henry the third, thirty t••ousand Students were therein resident, as Archbishop Armachanus (who then lived) hath writ, and Ri••ha••∣ger (then also living) sheweth, that for all the civil wars which hindred such plac••s of quiet study, yet 15000 Students were there remaining, whose names (saith he) were entered in Matricula in the matriculation book. About which time, Iohn Baliol (the father of ••aliol, King of Scots) built a Colledge, yet bearing his name, Anno 1269, and Walter Merton Bishop of Rochester, that which is now called Merton Colledge; both of them beautified with bui••dings, and enriched w••th land••, and were the first endowed Colledges for learning in all Christendom. And at this present there are six∣teen Colledges (besides another newly builded) with eight Halls, and many most fair Collegiate Churches, all a••orned with most stately buildings, and enriched with great endowments, noble Libraries, and most learned Graduates of all professions, that unless it be her sister Cambridge, the other ••ursing breast of this land, the like is not found again in the World. This City is also ho∣noured with an Episcopal See. As for the site thereof, it is removed from the Equat••r in the degree

52, and one minute, and from the West by Mercators measure, 19 degrees, and 20 minutes.

(••) As this County is happy in the poss••ssion of so famous an Academy, so it is graced with most Princely Palaces apper••aining to the English Crown, whereof Woods••ock is the most ancient and mag∣nificent, built to that glory by King Henry the first, and enlarged with a Labyrinth of many wind∣ings by King Henry the second, to hide from his jealous Iuno, his intirely beloved Concubine Rosa∣mond Clifford, a Damosel of surpassing beauty; where notwithstanding, followed by a clew of silk that fell from her lap, she was surprised and po••soned by Queen Eleanor his wife, and was first buri∣ed at Gods••ow Nunnery, in the midst of the qui••e, under a Hearse of silk, set about with lights, whom Hugh Bishop of Lincoln (thinking it an unf••t object for Virgins devotion) caused to be removed into the Church ••ard: but those chast sisters liked so well the memory of that kind Lady, as that her bones they translated again into their Chappel.

Bensington is another of his Majesties Mannors, built by William de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, but now in neglect through the annoyance arising from the waters or marishes adjoyning. Houses built for devotion, and for abuse suppressed and again put down, the chief in account were Enisham••, Osney, Bruern, Gods••ow, Burchester, and Tame, besides S. Frideswides, and very many other stately Houses of Religion in this City.

The Division of this Shire is into fourteen Hundreds, wherein are seated ten Market-Towns, and two ••undred and fourscore Parish C••u••ches.

[illustration] map of Gloucestershire

Glocester Shire

GLOCESTER-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXIII.

GLOCESTER-SHIRE, lieth bordered upon the North with Worcester, and Warwick∣shires, upon the East with Oxford and Wilt-shires, upon the South altogether with Somer∣set-Shire, and upon the West with the River Wye and Hertford shire.

(2) The length thereof extended from Bristow upon the River Avon in her South, unto Clifford upon another Avon in her North, are about forty eight miles; and her broadest part from East to West, is from Lechland unto Preston, containing twenty eight: the whole circumference about one hundred thirty eight miles.

(3) The Form whereof is somewhat long and narrow: the Air thereof is pleasant, sweet, and delectable; and for fruitfulness of Soyl hear Malmesbury, and not me; The ground of this Shire throughout (saith he) yieldeth plenty of Corn, and bringeth forth abundance of Fruits; the one through the natural goodness only of the ground, the other through the diligent manuring and tillage, in such wise, that it would provoke the laziest person to take pains. Here you may see the High-ways, and Common Lanes clad with Apple-trees and Pear-trees, not ingraffed by the industry of mens hand, but growing naturally of their own accord: the ground of it self is so inclined to bear fruits, and those both in taste and beauty far exceeding others, and will endure until a new supply come. There is not any County in England so thick set with Vineyards as this Province is, so plentiful of increase, and so pleasant in taste. The very Wines made thereof carry no unpleasant tartness, as being little inferi∣our in sweet Verdure to the French Wines; the houses are innumerable, the Churches passing fair, and the Towns standing very thick. But that which addeth unto all good gifts (a special glory) is the Ri∣ver

Severn than which there is not any in all the Land, for Channel broader, for Stream swi••ter, o•• for Fish better stored. There is in it a daily rage and fury of waters, which I know not whether I may call a Gulf or Whirl-pool of waters, raising up the sands from the bottom, winding and d••iving them upon heaps: sometimes overflowing her banks, roveth a great way upon the face of her bor∣dering grounds, and again retireth as a Conquerour into the usual Channel. Unhappy is the Vessel which it taketh full upon the side: but the Watermen will beware thereof when they see that Hydra coming, turn the Vessel upon it, and cut thorow the midst of it, whereby they check and avoid her violence and danger.

(4) The ancient people that possessed this Province, were the DOBUNI, who spread themselves ••urther into Oxford-s••ire. But betwixt the Severn and VVy•• were seated part of SILURES, or In∣habitants of South-VVales. And upon what ground I know not, let Lawyers dispute it, the Inhabi∣tants in some part of this Shire enjoy a private custom to this day, that the Goods and Lands of Con∣demned Persons fall unto the Crown but only for a year and a day, and then return to the next heirs, contrary to the custom of all England besides.

(5) The general Commodities of this Shire, are Corn, Iron, and VVols, all passing fine, besides Pasturage, Fruits, and VVoods, which last are much lessened by making of Iron, the only bane of Oke, Elm, and Beech.

(6) These, with all other provisions, are traded thorow twenty five Market-Towns in this Coun∣ty, whereof two are Cities of no small import: the first is Glocester, from whom the Shire taketh name, seated upon Severn, near the middest of this Shire, by Antonin•• the Emperour called Glou∣um, built first by the Romans, and set as it were upon the neck of the Silures, to yoke them, where their legion called Colonia Gleuum, lay. It hath been walled about (excepting that part that is defended by the River) the ruines thereof in many places appear; and some part yet standing, doth well witness their strength. This City was first won from the Britains by Cheulin the first King

of the West-Saxons, about the year of Christ, 570, and afterwards under the Mercians it flourished with great honour, where Offrick King of Northum••erland, by the sufferance of Ethelred of Mercia, founded a most stately Monastery of Nuns, whereof Kineburgh, Edbergh, and Eve, Queens of the Mer∣cians, were Prioresses successively each after other.

(7) Edelfled a most renowned Lady, ••ister to King Edward the elder, in this City built a fair Church, wherein her self was interred, which being overthrown by the Danes, was afterwards rebuilt, and made the Cathedral of that See, dedicated unto the honour of S. Peter. In this Church the un∣fortunate Prince, King Edward the second, under a Monument of Alablaster doth lye; who be∣ing murdered at Barkley Castle, by the cruelty of French Isabel his wife, was there entombed. And not far from him another Prince as unfortunate, namely, Robert Curthose, the eldest son of William the Conquerour, lyeth in a painted wooden Tombe in the midst of the Quire; whose eyes were pluckt out in Cardiffe Castle, wherein he was kept prisoner twenty six years, with all contumelious indig∣nities, until through extream anguish he ended his life. And before any of these, in this City say our British Historians, the body of Lucius our first Christian King was interred: and before his days the Britains Arviragus.

The graduation of this County I observe from this City, whence the Pole is elevated in the de∣gree of Latitude 52, and 14 minutes, and in Longitude from the West, 18, and 5 minutes.

(8) The other City is Bristow, fair, but not very ancient, built upon the Rivers Avon and Frome, for trade of Merchandize a second London, and for beauty and account next unto York. This City standeth partly in this County, and partly in Sommerset-shire: but being a County of it self, will ac∣knowledge subjection to neither.

(9) A City more ancient hath been Circestar, by P••olomy called Corinium; by Antonine, Duro∣cornovium; by Giraldus, Passerum Vrbem, The Sparrows City, upon a flying report, that Gurmund

a Tyrant from Africk▪ besieging this City, tyed fire unto the wings of Sparrows, who lighting in the Town upon light matter, set flame upon all. The circuit of whose walls extended two miles a∣bout, wherein the Consular Port or ways of the Romans met and crossed each other. This City was won from the Britains by Cheulin first King of the West Saxons: afterwards it was possessed by the Mercians; and lastly, by the Danes under Gurm••nd (the former no doubt mistaken for him) where∣in a rable of them kept the space of a year, Anno 879, and never since inhabited, according to the circuit of her walls.

(10) Places of memorable note are these: The Island Alney near unto Glocester, wherein Edmund Iron-side the English, and Canutus the Dane, after many battles and bloud, fought in single Combat hand to hand alone, until they compounded for the Kingdoms partition: Barkley Castle, where King Edward the second was thorow his fundament run into his bowels with a red burning Spit: Tewkesbury the fatal period of King Henry the sixth his government, and the wound of the Lanc••strian Cause; for in a battle there fought in Anno 1471, Prince Edward, the only son of King Henry, had his brains dashed out in a most shameful manner, the Queen and his Mother taken prisoners, and most of their favourites slain and beheaded. And at Alderley, a little Town standing eight miles from the Severne, upon the Hills to this day are found Cockles, Periwincles, and Oysters of solid stone, which whether they have been Shel-fish and living creatures, or else the sports of Nature in her works, let the Natural Philosophers dispute of and judge.

(11) The places of piety, set apart from other worldly Services, and dedicated to religious uses by the devotions of Princes, erected in this Shire, were Tewkesbury, Deor••ust, Glocester, Minching, Burkley, Kinswood, Circester, Winchcombe, and Hales; which last was built with great cost by Richa••d Earl of Cornwall, King of the Romans, wherein himself and his Dutchesse was interred. Their Son Earl Edmund brought out of Germany the bloud of Hales, supposed and said to be part of that whic••

Christ shed upon his Cross. In this place with great confluence and devotions of Pilgrimage it was sought and worshiped, till time proved it a meer counterfeit, when the glorious light of the Gospel revealed to eye-sight such gross Idolatries, and the skirts of Superstition were were turned up, to the shew of her own••shame.

(12) Dukes and Earls that have born the title of Glocester, the first of every Family are by their Arms and Names expressed, ever fatal to their Dukes, though the greatest in bloud and birth. The first was Thomas VVoodstock, son to King Edward the third, who in Callis was ••mothered in a Feather∣bed to death. The second was Humfrey brother to King Henry the fifth, by the fraudulent practice of the malignant Cardinal and Queen, made away at S. Edmundsbury. And the last was Richard brother to King Edward the fourth, who by the just hand of God was cut off in battle by King Henry the Second.

(13) This Shires division is principally into four parts, subdivided into thirty Hundreds, and th••m again into two hundred and eight Parish-Churc••es.

[illustration] map of Herefordshire

Hereford SHIRE

HEREFORD-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXIV.

HEREFORD-SHIRE, (formerly accounted within the limits of Wales) lyeth circu∣lated upon the North with Worcester and Shrop-shires; upon the East with Malvern Hills is parted from Glocester-shire; upon the South is kept in with Monmouth-shire; and up∣on the West in part with the Haiterall Hills is divided from Brecknock; and the rest confined with Radnor-shire.

(2) This Counties climate is most healthful and temperate, and Soyl so fertile for Corn and Cattle, that no place in England yieldeth more or better conditioned: sweet Rivers ru••ning as veins in the body, do make the Corn-bearing grounds in some of her parts rightly to be termed the Golden Vale: and for Waters, Wool, and Wheat, doth contend with Nilus, Colchos, and Egypt; such are Le••ster, Irchenfield, the banks of Wye, Luge, and Frome.

(3) The ancient people known to the Romans, (whose power they well felt before they could subdue them) were the Silures, placed by Ptolomy in this Tract, and branched further into Radnor, Breck••ock, Monmouth, and Glamorgan shires, at this day by us called South••wales, and by the Welsh De∣heubarth. Their Original, as Tacitus conjectureth by their site, coloured countenances, and curled hair, was out of Spain, and both as he and Pliny describes them, were fierce, valiant, and impatient of servitude, which well they shewed under Caratacus their Captain, and nine years scourge to the Roman assaulters, for whose only conquest (and that made by treachery) the Victor in Rome triumphed with more than a usual Aspect, and with so equal an hand bare the Scoale of Resistance, that their own Writers evermore term it a dange••ous War. For the Legion of Marius Valence

they put to ••light, and that with such havock of the Associates, that Asterius the Lievtenant of Britain for very grief gave up the ghost: and Veranius under Nero assaulted them in vain. But when V••spa∣sian was Emperour, and expert Souldiers imployed in every Province. Iulius Frontinus subdued these Silures unto the Romans, where continually some of their Legions afterward kept, till all was aban∣doned in Valentinians ••ime.

(4) The Saxons then made themselves Lords of this Land, and this Province a part of their Merci∣ans Kingdom; yea, and Sutton the Court of great Offa their King.

(5) But Hereford after, raised of the ruines of the old Ariconium (now Kenc••ester shaken in pieces by a violent earthquake) grew to great fame, thorow a conceived sanctity by the burial of Et••el∣bert King of the East-Angles, slain at Sutton by Offa, at what time he came thither to have espoused his Daughter; whose grave was first made at Merden, but afterwards c••nonized and removed to this City, when in honour of him was built the Cathedral Church by Milfrid, a petty King of that County, which Gruffith Prince of South-Wales and Algar an English••••an, rebelling against Edward Confessor, consumed with fire; but by Bishop Remel••n was restored as now it is, at what time the Town was walled, and i•• so remaining in good repair, having six gates for entrance, and fifteen Watch-Towers for defence, extending in compass to fifteen hundred paces: and whence the North Pole is observed to be raised 52 degrees, 27 minutes in Latitude, and is set from the first point of the West in Longi∣tude, 17 degrees, and 30 minutes; being yearly governed by a Mayor, chosen out of one and thirty Citizens, which are commonly called the Election, and he ever after is known for an Alderman, and clothed in Scarlet, whereof four of the eldest are Iustices of Peace, graced with a Sword-bearer, a Recorder, a Town-Clerk and four Sergeants with Mace.

The greatest glory that this City received, was in King Athelstans days; where (as Malmesbury doth report) he caused the Lords of ••ales by way of Tribute, to pay yearly (besides Hawkes and

Hounds) twenty pound of Gold, and three hundred pound of Silver by weight; but how that was performed and continued I find not.

(6) Things of rare note in this Shire are said to be, Bone-well, a Spring not fa•• from Richards Castle, wherein are continually found little Fishes bones, but not a ••in seen; and being wholly cleansed thereof, will notwithstanding have again the like, whether naturally produced, or in veins thither brought, no man knoweth.

(7) But more admirable was the work of the Omnipotent, even in our own remembrances, and year of Christ ••esus 1571, when the Marcley Hill in the East of this Shire, rouzed it self out of a dead sleep, with a roaring noise removed from the place where it stood, and for three days toge∣ther travelled from her first ••ite, to the great amazement and fear of the beholders. It began to jour∣ney upon the seventh day of February, being sunday, at six of the Clock at night, and by seven in the next morning had gone forty paces, carrying with it Sheep in their coats, hedge-rows, and trees; whereof some were overturned, and some that stood upon the plain, are firmly growing upon the hill; those that were East were turned West; and those in the West were set in the East: in which remove, it overthrew ••••••••aston-Chappel, and turned two high-ways near an hundred yards from their usual paths formerly trod. The ground thus travelling, was about twenty six Acres, which opening it self with Rocks and all, bare the earth before it for four hundred yards space with∣out any stay, leaving that which was Pasturage in place of the Tillage and the Tillage overspread with Pa••turage. Lastly, overwhelming her lower parts, mounted to an hill of twelve fathoms high, and there rested her self after three days travel, remaining his mark, that so laid hand upon this Rock, whose power ••ath poysed the Hills in his Ballance.

(8) Religious Houses built by the devotions of Princes, and s••ored with Votaries and revenues for life, were in this Shire no less than fourteen, most stately seated in the places as followeth: at

both the Herefords, Barro••, Ewayot, C••••fford, M••nemue, Acornbury, Lemster, Linbroke, Peterchurch, Kilpeck D••r••, and VViggermore: and suspected of hypocrisie, were called in question by King Henry the Eighth, and so strictly pursued, that some faul••s were apparent, whereby they were laid open to the general Deluge of the Time, whose streams bare down the walls of all those Foundations, carrying away the Shrines of the dead, and defacing the Libraries of their ancient Records.

(9) This County before the Conquest being accounted in VVales, was then strengthened with Forts against the English: and being once made a Pro••ince to England, was fortified with Castles a∣gainst the VVelsh, wherein we find no less than twenty eight, though many of them now are ruinated to nothing. Such were Alban, at both the Ewyats, Godridg, Grosmond, Herdly, Hereford, Old Castle, Dorston, Brampton, Bredwarden, Saint Brivels, Ledbury, Lenals, Snowd••••, Harlewois, Huntington, VVilion, VVigmore, Richards, Monemue, Cor••t, Kilbeck, Clifford, Skensfred, VV••teney, Radenwer, and K••nevenleis; and is traded with eight Market-Towns, being diuided into eleven Hundreds, and in them seated one hundred seventy and six Parish-Churches, containing in compass an hundred and two miles.

[illustration] map of Worcestershire

Worcestershir

VVORCESTER-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXV.

WORCESTER-SHIRE, is a County both rich and populous, and lyeth circulated upon the North with Stafford••shire; upon the East with Warwick and Oxford-shires, upon the South with ••locester••shire; and the West by Malverne Hills is parted from Hereford••shire: the rest lyeth confronted upon, and in part divided from Shrop-shire by the Ri∣ver Dowles.

(2) The form thereof is triangle, but not of equal proportion; for from North to South are thirty two miles, from South to North-West twenty two, and from thence to her North-East point are twenty eight: the whole in circumference is one hundred and twenty miles.

(3) The Air of this Shire is of a favourable temperature, that gives an appetite for labour, diet, and rest: The Soyl is fertile, and to me seemed inferiour to none other in this Land: for besides the abundance of Corn in every place spread, the Woods and Pasturage in her hills and Plains, sweet Rivers that water the Vallies below, the Cattle that cover the tops of higher ground; the Fields, Hedge-rows, and High-ways are beset with fruitful Pea••-trees that yield great pleasure to sight, and commodious use: for with their juyce they make a bastard kind of Wine, called Perry, which is both pleasant and good in taste. Many Salt Springs also this County affordeth: yea, and more than are commonly in use, such with the Germans, our ancient Predecessors, were esteemed most sacred and holy; so that (as Tacitus writeth) to such they wontedly resorted to s••pplicate their Gods with their devout pra••ers, as to places neerest the Heavens, and therefore the sooner to be heard. And Poets in their feignings will have the Nymphs residence in shady green groves, and banks of

sweet Springs: if so, then (as Helicon) this County affords both: such are the Forrests of Wire and Fecke••••am, the great Woods of Norton, and most fair Chase of Malvern. And for waters, to witness what I say, is the Severn that cuts this Shire in the midst, Teme, Salwarp, and Avon, all of them making fruit••ul their passage, and stored with Fish of most delicious taste.

(4) The ancient people, poss••ssors of this Shire, were the CORNAVII▪ inhabitants of Che••shire Shrop-shire, Stafford, and Warwick-shires subdued by the Romans in Claudius Caesars time, and after their departure, made a portion of the Merci••n••Saxons Kingdom, and in Beda's time were called the VVicii, whereof it may be this Shire had the name: unless you will have it from the Salt-Pits, which in old English are named Witches; or from the famous Forrest of Wyre. Howsoever, true it is that the County doth hold the name from the Chief City VVorcester.

(5) Which is most pleasantly seated, passing well frequented, and very richly inhabited. This was the Branonium, mentioned by Antonine and Ptolomy, called by the Britains, C••er-VVrangon; by Ninius, C••er-Guorcon; and by the Latines, Vigornia, This City is seated upon the East bank of Se∣ver••e, and from the same is walled in, triangle-wise about, extending in circuit one thousand six hundred and fifty paces: thorow which seven Gates enter, with five other Watch-Towers for defence. It is thought the Ro••ans built this to restrain the Britains that held all beyond S••verne. This City by Hardy Canute in the year of Christ 1041, was so••ely endangered, and set on ••••re, and the Citizens slain almost every one, for that they had killed his Collector of the Danish Tribute: yet it way presently repaired and peopled, with many Burgesses, and for fifteen Hides discharged it self to the Conquerour; as in his Doomesdays is to be seen. But in the year 1113, a sudden fire happen∣ed, no man knew how, which burnt the Castle and Cathedral Church. Likewise in the civil ••royles of King S••ephen it was twice lighted into a flame, and the latter laid it hopeless of recovery. Notwithstanding from those dead Ashes a new Phenix arose, and her building raised in a more

stately proportion, especially the Cathedral dedicated to S. Mary, first laid by Bishop Sexwolfe, in Anno 680: ••ince when it hath been augmented almost to the River: In the midst of whose Qui••e, from his many turmoiles, resteth the body of King Io••n (the great withstande•• of the Popes proceed∣ings) under a monument of white Marble, in Princely Vestures, with his portraiture thereon ac∣cording to life. And in the South-••ide of the same Quire lyeth entombed Prince A••thur the eldest Son to King Henry the seventh; his Monument is all black Iett, without remembrance of him by Picture.

This City is governed by two Bayliffs, two Aldermen, two Chamberlains, and two Constables, yearly elected out o•• twenty four Burgesses clothed in Scarlet, assisted with forty eight other Citizen••▪; whom they call their Common Councell••rs, clad in Purple, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and five Serge∣ants with Mace their Attendants. Whose Geographical Position is distant in Longitude from the West Meridian 18 degrees, 10 scruples, ••aving the North-Pole elevated in Latitude 52 degrees, and 32 scruples.

(6) Places of further note for memorable antiquity, is Vpton, of great account in the Roman time, where some of their Legions kept, as witness their Moneys, there often found; the admirable Ditch upon Malvern H••lls, drawn by Gilbert Clare, Earl of Glocester, to divide his Lands from the Church of Worcester: the Saxons or Augustines Oke, where he the English Apostle met with the British Bishops for the uniform celebration of Easter, from whence both parts departed with discontented minds, after many hot words and thwa••ting disputes.

(7) Neither is it wi••hout adm••ration to me, that many places of this Shire lye far within the Precincts of other Provinces, as Aulston, Washbor••es, Cuttesden, Paxford, Hanging-Easton, Northwick••, Blockley, Eurlode in Glocester-shire, and Goldcote, Alderme••ston, New••old, Steddenton, Armiscote, Black∣well, Darlings-cote, Shipton, Tydmin••on, Olbarrow in Warwick shi••e, Dudley in Stafford-shire, and

Rochford in Her••ford-shire, whither I must refer the Reader to find out these and the like in these Western Tracts.

(8) Religious places erected in this Shire, and devoted unto God by devout persons, were Bre∣den, Brodlege, Evesholme, Al••ecester, Cochel, Eladbury, Malverin, Pershore, Stodl••ge, Westwoods, and Worcester, plenteously provided for, and further secured by many priviledges, both which they abused, as were the Inditements of all such in the days of King Henry the eight, at whose Bar himself being Iudge) they were found guilty, and received sentence of their ends and dest••uction.

(9) Castles for defence built in this County, ••uinate or in strength, were Hartleb••ry, Holt, Ha••dley, Norton, Elmely, and Worcester, besides his Majesties Mannour of Tichnel.

(10) This Shires divi••ion is into seven Hundreds, wherein are seated ten Market-Towns, and one hundred fifty two Parish-Churches.

[illustration]

WARWICKE SHIRE

VVARVVICK-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXVI.

WARWICK-SHIRE, (so called from her Shire-Town) is bounded upon the North with the County of Stafford; upon the East, with Watling-street-way is parted from Leicester-shire, and the rest bordered upon by Nort••ampton-••hire: the South part is but∣ted by Oxford and Glocester-shires; and all her West with the County of Worces••er.

(2) The Form thereof is not much unlike to a Scallop-shell, growing from her West∣ern-head, and spr••ading her body wider, with many indents. The length thereof from Newton in the North, to Long-Compton in the South, are miles thirty and three: and the broadest part of this Shire is from H••wellgrange in the West, unto Hill-morton in the East, distant assunder twenty five miles; the whole in circumference, abo••t one hundred thi••ty and five miles.

(3) This Shire is seated near unto the heart of all England, and therefore participates with her in the best both for Air and soyl, wanting nothing for profit or pleasure for man. The South part from Avon (that runneth thorow the midst of this County) is called the Feldon, as more champion and tractable to be stirred for Corn, which yearly yieldeth such plenty of harvest, that the Hus∣b••ndman smileth in beholding his pains, and the meadowing pastures with their green mantles so imbroydred with ••lowers, that from Edg-hill, we may behold another Eden, as Lot did the Plain of Io••dan, before that Sodom fell. The Woodland lyeth upon the North of Avon, so called in regard of the plenty of Woods; which now are much thinner by the making of Iron, and the soyl more churlish to yield to the Plough.

(4) The ancient people that po••sessed this Province, are by Ptolomies description called the Cornavii, wherein after were seated the Mercian Saxons, a part of whose Kingdom it was, and great••y sought after by the West Saxons, whose King Cut••red, about the year of Ch••ist Iesus 749, in Battel ••ew Ethelbald at Sekington neer unto Tamworth. And not far from thence, King Edward the 4, a•• un∣fortunatel•• fought agai••st that ••tout make-King Richard Nevil Earl of Warwi••k; near unto which, upon Blacklow hill, Pierce Gaveston (that proud and new-raised Earl of Cornwall) was beheaded by Guy Earl of VVarwick: assisted with the Earls of Lancaster and Hereford. And surely, by the testi∣mony of Iohn Rosse, and others, this County hath been better replenished with people; who maketh compl••int of whole Town-ships depopulations, altogether laid waste by a puissant Army of feeding sheep.

(5) Notwithstanding, many fair Towns it hath, and some of them matchable to the most of England. The chief thereof is Coventree, a City both stately for building, and walled for defence: whose Citizens having highly offended their ••irst Lord Leofrik••, had their priviledges infringed, and themselves oppressed with many heavy Tributes; whose wife Lady Godiva pitying their estates, un∣cessantly s••ed for their peace, and that with such importunacy, as hardly could be said whether was greater, his hatred, or her love: at last overcome with her continual intercessions he granted her suit upon an uneivil, (and as he thought) an unacceptable condition, which was, that she should ride naked thorow the face of the City, and that openly at high noon day. This notwithstanding she thankfully accepted, and performed the Act accordingly enjoyned: for this Lady Godiva strip∣ping her self of all rich attire, let loose the tresses of her fair hair, which on every side so covered ••er nakedness, that no part of her body was uncivil to sight: whereby she redeemed her former free∣doms, and remissions of such heavy Tributes. Whose memory I wish may remain honourable in that City for ••ver, and her pity followed by s••ch pos••essing Ladies.

This City had grant to choose their yearly Magistrates, a Mayor and two Bayliffs, and to build a∣bout and ••mbattle a wall, by King Edward the 3, whom He••ry the 6 corporated a County of it self, and changed the names of their Bayliffs into Sheriffs: and the walls then were built as they now stand; thorow which open 13 gates for entrance, besides 18 other Towers thereon for defence. At Gofford∣gate in the East hangeth the shield-bon•• of a wild-Boare, far bigger than the greatest Oxe-bone: with whose s••out the great Pit called Swanswell was turned up, and was ••••ain by the famous Guy, if we will believe report.

(6) Next unto this City, in account and commerce, is VVarwick, upon the North west bank of Avon, built by Gurgunstus, the son of Beline, as Iohn Rosse, Monk of the place, saith 375 years be∣fore the birth of Christ: by Ninus called Caer-Guarvic and Caer Leon; and by learned Cambden judged to be PRAESIDIUM, the Roman Garrisons Town. The situation of this place is most pleasant, upon a hill ri••ing from the River, over which is a strong and fair Stone-bridge, and her sharp stream upon the Town-side checked with a most sumptuous and stately Castle, the decays whereof with great cost and curious buildings, the right worthy Knight Sir Foulke Grevil (in whose person shineth all true vertue and high Nobility) hath repaired: whose merits to me-ward I do acknow∣ledge, in setting this hand free from the daily imployments of a manual trade, and giving it full li∣berty thus to express the inclination of my mind, himself being the Procurer of my pr••sent estate.

It seemeth this Town hath been walled about as appeareth by the Trench in some places seen, and two very fair Gates, whose passages are hewed out of the Rock, as all other into the Town are: over whom two beautiful Chappels are built; that towards the East called S. Peters, and that on the South-west, S. Iames.

Two fair Churches ar•• therein seated, called S. Marries and S. Nicholas: but these in, and about

the Town suppressed, S. Lawrence, S. Michaels, Iohn Baptist, and Iohn of Ierusale••, beside the N••nnery in the North of the Town; whose North Pol•• is elevated in Latitude, 52 degrees, 45 minutes, and is seated from the first point in the West of Longitude, 18 degrees, and 45 minutes, being yearly go∣verned by a Bayliff, twelve Brethren, twenty four Burgesses for Common-Counsell, a Recorder, a Town∣cl••rk, and one Serg••ant their Attendant.

(7) Places of most memorable note observed in this Shire, are Shugbury, where the precious stone Astroites is found: Off-Church, which was the Palace of great Offa the Mercia••, and the burial∣place of S. Frem••nd his son: Che••terton, where the famous Fosse-way is seen. At Leamington, so far from the Sea, a Spring of Salt-water boyleth up: and at Newenham Regis most soveraign wate•• against the Stone, Green wounds, Vlcers, and Imposthu••es, and d••unk with Salt looseth, and with Sugar bind∣eth the body; and turneth wood into stone, as my self saw by many sticks that therein were faln, some part of them Ash, and some part of them Stone: and Guy Cliffe, where the famous Earl Guy, after many painful exploits a••chieved, retired, and unknown, led an Herm••ts life, and was lastly there buried.

(8) The chiefest Commodities in this County growing, ar•• Corn, whereof the Red Horse Vale yield∣eth most abundantly; Wools in great plenty; Woods and Iron, though the producer of the one, will be the destruction of the other. Such honourable Families as have been dignified with the Earldom of this Sbire To••ns 〈…〉〈…〉 the Normans Conquest, in the great Map it self are inserted, and by their several names expressed.

This County is strengthened with eight strong Castles, traded with fifteen Market-Towns, inriched with many fair buildings, and by the devotion of many Nobles, had many foundations of religious Monasteries therein laid. The chiefest were at Stoneley, Warwick Thellisford, Roxhall, Balshall, Killing∣worth,

worth, Coventree, Combe, Nun-••aton, Ashley, ••therston, and Pollesworth: all which came to their period in the Reign of King Henry the eight, when the rich Revenues were alienated to his use, and those stately buildings either overturned, or bestowed upon his Courtiers: but yet to Gods glory, and his divine service, one hundred fifty eight Parish-Churches therein remain, dispersedly seated in the nine Hundreds of this Shires Division.

[illustration] map of Northamptonshire

NORTHAMPTON SHIRE

NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXVII.

NORTHAMPTON-SHIRE, situated near unto the midst of England, lyeth sepa∣rated upon the North from Lincoln-Shire by the Riuer Weland; from Huntington-shire on the East is parted by the water Nene: her South is bounded with Buckingham and Oxford-shires, and the West from Warwick with VVatling-street-way, Avon, and VVeland is divided from Leicester.

(2) The Form of this County ••s large and narrow, broadest in the South-west; and thence shoo••ing still lesser like unto a Horn, nor not much unlike to the Form of Cornwal: and from the entrance of C••erwel into this Shire, unto the fall of VVeland and Nene near unto Crowland, are by measure forty six miles; and the broade••t part is from Ouse unto Avon, which is not fully twenty miles: the whole in circumference one hundred and nineteen miles.

(3) The Air is good, temperate, and healthful: the soyl is champion, rich, and fruitful, and so plenteously peopled, that from some Ascents, thirty Parish-Churches, and many more Wind-mills at one view may be seen: notwithstanding the simple and gentle Sheep, of all creatures the most harm∣less, are now become so ravenous, that they begin to devour men, waste fields, and depopulate ho••ses, if not whole Town-Ships, as one merrily hath written.

(4) The ancient people known to the Romans, and recorded by Ptolomy, were the Coritany, who possessed this County, and were branched further thorow Leicester, Lincoln, Nottingham, Rutland, and Darby-shires: these joyning with the Icenians, with them were fettered with the chains of sub∣jection, when for Claudius, Publius Ostorius Scapula entred his Lieutenantship in Britain, and in

battle subdued all betwixt the Rivers Nene and Sabrina. But when the Romans were content to let go that which so long was desired, and had cost so much in the getting, the Saxons, a most warlike Na∣tion, put into these parts, and made it a portion of their Mercian Kingdom: but their government also grown out of date, the Normans seated themselves in these fair possessions, the branches of whose Stems, are spread abroad in these parts, most fruitful and fair.

(5) Commodities arising in this Shire, are chi••fly gotten by tillage and plough, whereby Corn so plentifully aboundeth, that in no other Coun••y is found more, or so much: the pas••ures and woods are filled with Cattle, and every where sheep loaden with their sleeces of wool.

(6) The chief Town in this Shire is No••thampton whereof the County taketh name, which for circuit, beauty, and building, may be ranked with the most of the Cities of our Land. It is seat∣ed at the meeting and confluence of two Rivers, the greater whereof beareth the name Nen. This Town hath been built all of stone, as by many foundations remaining to this day is seen, and is walled about both strong and high, excepting the West, which is defended by a River parted into many streams. In the depredations of the Danes, Swen their King set this Town on fire, and after∣wards it was sorely assaulted by the disobedient B••rons of King Iohn, who named themselves, The Army of God: But the loyalty of this Town stood nothing so sure unto King Henry his son, whence the Barons with displayed Banners sounded the Battle against their Soveraign. And yet af∣ter this a woful field of E••glands civil division was fought, whence Richard Nevil, the stout Earl of Warwick, led away prisoner that unfortunate man King He••ry the sixth. Upon the West part of this Town standeth a large Castle, mounted upon an hill: whose aged countenance well sh••weth the beauty that she had born, and whose gaping chinks do daily threaten the downfall of her walls. To this upon the South the Town wall adjoyneth, and in a round circuit meeteth the River in the North, extending in compass two thousand one hundred and twenty paces: whose

site so pleased the Students of Cambridge, that thither they removed themselves upon the Kings War∣rant, in mind to have made it an University: from whence the North-Pole is elevated 52 degrees 36 scruples for Lati••ude, and in Longi••ude is removed from the West 19 degrees, and 40 scruples; being yearly governed by a Mayor, two Bayliffs, twelve Magis••rates, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, a Common Counsel of forty eight Burgesses, with five Serjeants to execute bu••iness.

(7) But the devotions of the Saxon-Kings made Peterb••row more famous, formerly called Med∣d••swell, where VVolphere King of Mercia began a most stately Monastery to the honour of S. Peter, for satisfaction of the bloud of his two sons, whom he had ••urthered in case of Chris••ianity; but himself being for the like made away by his Mother, his brother Penda continued the work, with the assistance of his brother Ethelred, and two sisters, Kineburga and Kineswith. This among the Danish Desolatio•• was cast down, yet was it again restored to greater beauty by Ethelwold Bishop of VVinchester, with the help of King Edgar, and of Adulph his Chancellour, who upon prick of conscience, that in bed with his wife he had over-laid and smothered an Infant their only son, lai•• all his wealth upon the re••edifying of the place, and then became Abbot thereof himself. The Cathedral is most beautiful and magni••ical, where, in the Quire lie interred two unfortunate Queens: on the North side Katherine Dowager of Spain, the repud••ate wife of King Henry the eight, under an Hearse covered with black Say, having a white Cross in the midst: and on the South side, Mary Queen of Scotland, whose Hearse is spread over with black Velvet. The Cloy••ter is large, and in the Gla••••e windows is very curiously portrayed the History of VV••lphere the Founder, whose Royal Seat was at VVedon in the street, converted unto a Monastery by S. VVerburgh his holy daughter, and had been the Roman Station, by Antonine the Emperour called Bannavenna. So likewise Norman-Chester was the ancient City Durobriva, where their Souldiers kept, as by the moneys t••ere daily found is most apparent.

(8) Houses of Religion devoted to Gods Service by the pious intents of their well meaning Foun∣ders, were at Peterborow, Peakirk, Pipewell, Higham, Davintree, Sulby, Saulscombe, Sewardesleg, Gare, S. Dewy, S. Michael, Luffeild, Catesby, Bruch, Barkley, Finshead, Fotheringhay, VVeden, and VVithrop, be∣sides them in Northampton, all which felt the storms of their own destruction, that raged against them in the Reign of King Henry the eight, who dispersed their Revenues to his own Coffers and Courtiers, and pulled the stones asunder of their seeming ever sure Foundations; and in the time of young Edward, his son, whose mind was free from wronging the dead, the Tombs of his own Pre∣decessours were not spared, when as Edward slain at Agincourt, and Richard at VVakefield, both of them Dukes of York, were after death assaulted with the weapons of destruction, that cast down their most fair Monuments in the Collegiate Church of Fotheringhay Castle.

(9) Eight Princely Families have enjoyed the Title of the Earldom of Northampton, whereof the last, Henry Howard, late Lord Privy Seale, a most honourable Patron to all learned proceedings (that I may acknowledge my dutiful and humble Service) hath most honourably assisted and set forward these my endeavours.

(10) This Shires division, for service to the Crown, and imployment of businesses, is into twenty Hundreds, hath been strengthened with ten Castles, and is still traded with ten Market-Towns, and God honoured in three hundred twenty six Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Huntingtonshire

HUNTINGTON SHIRE

HUNTINGTON-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

HUNTINGTON-SHIRE, (part of the Iceni under the Roman Monarch of Mercia in the Saxon Heptarchy) is severed with Nene; the North bounder from Northampton-shire, to which it in part adjoyneth west; from Bedford and Cambridge, by mearing Towns on the South; and from Ely, by a fence of water East, the work of Nature, Benwick Stream▪ or of Art, Canutu•• Delph: severed when Alfred, or before him, Off •• shared the open circuit of their Empery into Principalities: that by residence of subordinate rule, Peace at home might be main∣tained; Forreign offence (by apt assembly of the Inhabitants) resisted; Tax and Revenue of the Crown laid more even••ly, and en••ily levyed: Iustice at mens doors with less charge and journey administred: all causes Civil having a right and speedy dispatch, in the County or Earls monthly Court, as Criminal in his Lieutenant the Sheriff▪ Turne, twice a year. In form of a Lozeng this shire lyeth of positure temperate, and is 52 degrees, 4 scruples removed from the Aequator: the Hilly soyl to the Plough-man grateful: the Vale, contiguous to the fens, best for Pasture, in which to no part of England it giveth place: Woods are not much wanted, the Rivers serving Coal, as the Moors, Turff, for Fuell.

(2) This Content was (as the whole Continent) Forest, until Ca••utus gave this Law of grace, Vt quisque tam in agris, quam in silvis excite•• agitet{que} feras. Long were the hands of Kings to pull (of old) the Subjects right into Regal pleasure, when perambulation and Proclamation only might make any mans land forrest. It is in the first Williams time a Phrase in Record, not rare, Silva hujus Mane••ii FORISEST miss•• in Silvam R••gis, from which word of power, Forrest may seem not un∣aptly

to be derived. Cum videbat Henricus primus tres Bi••sas, sitting in his Forrest of Lyfield, he caused Husculphus his Ranger to keep them for his Game, as the record doth testifie. Thus did the second of his name, and the first Richard, in many parts: well therefore may the Exchequer Book call the Forrest Iustice for Vert and Venison, not Iustum absolut••, but Iustum secundum Legem Forestae. That Foresta is defined, Tuta ••erarum statio, may seem to confine the Forresters Office onely to his Games care, which of ancient was as well over Mineral and Maritimal revenue. The Office of Baldwi••e the great Forrester of Flanders, Non agrum tantum spectabat, sed & Maris custodiam, sai••h Tullius, out of the old Charters of the French Kings. And s••e how just this squares to our Legal practise, for of Assarts, Purprestures▪ Emprovement, Greenhugh, Herbage, Paunage, Fowles, Mills, Honey, Mines, Quarries, and Wreacks at Sea, did the Itineral Iustice of the Forrest h••re enquire. His Sub∣jects of this Shire, Henry the 2, from servitude of his beasts, (whose Grand-father pro••feris homines in∣••arceravit, exhaereditavit, multilavit, tru••idavit) did pretend by Charter to enfranchise, except Wabridge, Saple, Herthy, His own Demaines. But such was the success by encroachments, under his two ••uc∣ceeding Sons, that it drew on the oppressed people to importune anew the Soveraignes redress, which was by the great Charter of the third Henry ••ruitlesly effected. His son in the seventh of his Reign, by a perambulation, re••uming back the fruit of his fathers goodness, and so remaining, until in his twenty ninth year by Petition, and purchase of his people (for they gave him a full fifteen) he confirmed the former Charter, and by Iury, View, and Perambulation, setled that Boundary of ••orrest, which contented the People, became the square of universal Iustice in this Kind, and left in this Shire no more than the three former (his own grounds) Forrest.

(3) This Shire hath four Centuriatae or Hundreds, and had of old time five; these so called, Quia prima iustitutione ex Hiderum aliquot center ariis compositae. These are subdivided into 79 Parishes, whereof five besides the Shire-Town have Markets. These Parishes are measured by Hides, and

Carucks, or Plough-lands, more or less, is either richness of Soil, or strength of the Lord strength∣ned or extended their limits, the Mass in whole containing of the first sort, 818, and of the other, 1136, (These hides the ancient and general measure of land (except in Kent) where the account was by Solms, or Lincoln-shire. Vbi non sunt Hidae, sed pro Hidis sum Carucatae) were esteemed one hundred Acres, Non Normanico sed Anglico numero, una hida pro sexies viginti Acris, duo pro duodecies viginti, as in the Book of Doomesday, Caruca the Teame-land (not Carucata, for they be different) was in quantity of Acres, proportioned to the quantity of Soil, but usually in this Shire reputed 60. The Virgata, or Yard-land, was a more or less part of the Hide, as the Acres in number varied, which I find in this County from 18 to 42, but for the most part 30, which was the half Plough-land. And the Bovata or Oxgang (presumed in Law for Land in Granary) was suited in number of Acres to that Yard∣land, of which it was a Moity. Thus (except in the Fens, laid out per Leucas & quarentenas, miles and furlongs) stands all ameasurement of Land in this Shire, which containeth in Knights, Fees, 53 one half, 2 fifts, and a twentieth part. And in full estimation of rent and worth, rose in the time of the Conquerour, to 912 l. 4 s. and now payeth in Fifteen to the King, 871 l. 9 s. 7 d. ob. and in tenth from the Clergy, 142 l. 6 s. q.

(4) This County in discision of Titles, and administration of Iustice, did at the first, as the Ger∣mans our Ancestors, Iura per pagos & vicos reddere; Every Township by their Friburg••, or Tenemental, as Triers, and the Baron, Thain, or Head Lord there, or the Decanus (a good Freeholder) his Deputy, as Iudge, determining all Civil causes, a representation of this remaineth still in our Court-Leet. A∣boue this, and held twelve times a year, was our Hundred or Wapentake. Quae super decem Decanos & centem Friburgos judicabat. Here the Iudges were the Aldermen, and Barons or Freeholders of that Hundred; Aegelwinus Aldermannu•• tenuit placitum cum ••oto Hundred••, saith the Book of Ely. This Court had Cognoscence of Causes Ecclesiastical, as Temporal, therefore the Iudge or Al∣derman

ought to be such as Dei leges & hominum jura studebat promovere: thus it went although the Conquerour commanded, Ne aliquis de legibus Episcopalibus amplius in Hundredo placita teneret. The next and highest in this Shire, was Generale placitum Comitatus (the County or Sheriffs Court) to which were proper Placita Civilia ubi Curia Dominorum probantur desecisse, Et si placitum exurgat inter Vavasores duorum Dominorum tractetur in Comitatu. The Iudge was the Earl or Sheriff. The Tryers Barones Comitatus (Freeholders) Qui liberas in eo terras habent, not Civil onely, but Probats of Wills, Questions of Tithes, Et deb••••a vera Christianitatis Iura, were heard, and first heard in this Court. Therefore Episcopus, Presbyter Ecclesiae & Quatuor de melioribus villae, were adjuncts to the Sheriff, Qui dei leges & seculi nego••ia justa consideratione definirent. The Lay part of this liveth in a sort in the County, and Sheriff Turn; the Spiritual, about the Reign of King Stephen, by Soveraign conni∣vence, suffered for the most into the quarterly Synode of the Clergy, from whence in imitation of the Hundred Court, part was remitted to the Rural Deaneries, of which this Shire had four: And these again have been since swallowed up by a more frequent and superiour jurisdiction, as some of our civil Courts have been. There being now left in use for the most of this Shire for Causes Criminal, View of Frankpleg, by grant or prescription, A Session of the Peace quarterly, and two Goal deliveries by the Soveraigns Commission: and for Civil Causes, Cou••ts of Mannours, or of the County monthly, and twice by the Iudges of Assise yearly.

The Office of Execution and custody of this County is the Sheralfey, of old inheritable, untill Eustachius, who by force and favour of the Conquerour disseised Aluric and his heires, forfeited it to the Crown; but since it hath passed by annual election, and hath united to it the County of Cambridge.

(5) Having thus far spoken of the Shire in general, next in observation falleth the Shire-Town Huntington, Hundandun, or the Hunters Downe, North, seated upon a rising bank, over the

rich meadowing river Ouse, interpreted by some Authors, the Down of Hunters, to which their now common Seal (a Hunter) seemeth to allude. Great and populous was this in the foregoing age, the following having here buried of fifteen all but three, besides the Mother-Church S. Maries, in their own graves. At the reign of the Conquerour, it was ranged into four Ferlings or Wardes, and in them 256 Burgenses or Housholds: It answered at all assessments for 50 Hides, the fourth part of Hur••tington Hundred, in which it standeth. The annual rent was then 30 l. of which, as of three Minters there kept, the King had two parts, the Earl the third; the power of coy••age then and be∣fore, not being so privatley in the King, but Borows, Bishops, and Earls enjoyed it; on the one side stamping the face and stile of their Soveraign, in acknowledgement of subordinacy in that part of absolute power, and on the reverse their own name, to warrant their integrity in that infinite trust.

(6) The Castle supposed by some the work of the elder Edward, but seemingly by the Book of Doomesday, to be built by the Conquerour, is now known but by the ruines: It was the seat of Wol∣theof the great Saxon Earl, as of his succeeding heirs, until to end the question of right between Sentlice and the King of Scots, Henry the second laid it as you see; yet doth it remain the head of that honour, on which in other Shires many Knights Fees, and sixteen in this attended. Here David Earl of this and Arguise, Father of Isabel de Brus, founded the Hospital of S. Iohn Baptist: And Love∣••ote here upon the Fee of Eustace the Vicount, built to the honour of the blessed Virgin, the Priory of Black Cannons; valued at the Suppression 232 l. 7 s. ob. Here at the North end was a house of Fryers, and without the Town at Hinchingbrook, a Cloister of Nuns, valued at 19 l. 9 s. 2 d. founded by the first William, in place of S. Pandonia at Eltesly (by him suppressed) where near the end of the last Henry, the Family of the Cromwells began their Seat. To this Shire-Town, and benefit of the neighbour Countries, this River was Navigable, until the power of Gr••y, a minion of the

time, stopt that passage, and with it all redress either by Law or Parliament. By Charter of King Iohn this Town hath a peculiar Coroner, profit by Toll and Custom, Recorder, Town-Clerks, and two Bayliffs (elected annually for government) as at Parliament two burgesses, for advice and as••ent: and is the Lord of it self in Fee-farm.

(7) The rest of the Hundred (wherein this Shire Town lieth) is the East part of the County, and of Hurst a Parish in the center of it, named HURSTINGSTON, it was the Fee-farm of ••amsey Abbey, which on a point of Fertile Land thrust out into the Fens, is therein si••uate, founded in the year 969, to God, our Lady, and S. Benedict, by Earl Aylwin of the Royal bloud, reple∣nished with Monks from Westbury, by Oswald of York, and dedicated by Dunstan of Canterbury, Archbishops. By Abbot Reginald 1114, this Church was re-edified, by Magnavill Earl of Essex, not long after spoiled, and by Henry the third first of all the Norman Princes, visited; when wasted with the Sicilian wars, Regalis mensae Hospitalitas ita abbreviata fuit, ut cum Abbatibus, Clericis & viris satis ••umilibus, Hospitia quaesivit & prandia. This Monastery (the shrine of two martyred Kings, Ethel∣bright and Ethelred, and of Saint Ive the Persian Bishop) by humble piety at first, and pious charity, ascended such a pitch of worldly fortune, that it transformed their Founder (religious povert••) in∣to their ruine, the attribute of Ramsey the rich; for having made themselves Lords of 387 Hides of Land (whereof 200 in this Shire, so much as at an ea••ie and under rent, was at the Suppression va∣lued at 1983 l. 15 s. 3 d. q. but by account of this time annually amounts to 7000 l.) they then begin to affect popular command, and first enclosing that large circuit of Land and Water, for in it lyeth the Mile-square Meere of Ramsey as a peculiar Seigniory to them, called the Baleu•• or Bandy, bounded as the Shire, from Ely, and from Norman-Crosse with the hundred Meere, by Soveraign Grant they enjoyed regal liberty. And then aspiring a step further, to place in Parliament, made Bro••ghton the head of their Barony, annexing to it in this Shire four Knights▪ Fees. Thus in

great glory it stood above 400 years, until Henry the Eight (amongst many other once bright Lamps of Learning and Religion in this State, though then obscured with those blemishes to wealth and ease concomitant) dissolved the house, although Iohn Warboys then Abbot, and his 60 black Monks there maintained, were of the first that under their hands and conventual Seal protes••ed, Quod Romanus Pontifex non habet majorem aliquam Iurisdictionem collatam sibi à Deo in Regno Ang••iae quam quiuis alius externus Episcopus. A Cell to this rich Monastery was S. Iv••s Priory, built in that place of Slep by Earl Ad••lmus, in the reign of the last Edmund, where the incorrupted body of S. Ive there once an Hermit, in a Vi••ion revealed, was by Ed••othus taken up in his Robes Episcopal, and dedicated in the presence of Siward Earl of this County, and that Lady of renowned piety Ethel∣••leda, to the sacred memory of this Persian Bishop. Not far from this is Somersham, the gift of the Saxon Earl Brithnothus to the Church of Ely, before his own fatal expedition against the Danes: It is the head of those five Towns, of which the Soke is composed, and was an house to the See of Ely, well beautified by Iohn Stanley their Bishop; but now by exchange is annexed to the Crown. As these, so all the rest of this hundred was the Churches land, except Rippon Regis ancient Demaine. To which Saple (reserved Forrest) adjoyned, and the greater Stivecley, given by the last David Earl of Huntington, in Fee to his three Servants, Sentlice, Lakervile, and Camoys.

(8) NORMANSCROS the next Hundred, taketh name of a Cross above Stilion, the place where in former ages this Division mustered their people, whence Wapentake is derived: it had in it two Religious houses, the eldest in the confines of Newton and Chesterton, neer the River of Avon, now Nene founded (by the first Abbesse Keneburga, the Daughter of Penda, and Wife of El∣fred, King of Northumber land) West side a Trench, where Ermin-street-way crossed over the River by a Stone-bridge, whose ruines are now drowned, whence the Roman Town there seated on both sides took the name Durobrivae, as Trajectus Fluminis. But this Nunnery as raised, was also ruined

by the Danes before the Conquest. The other a Monastery of Cistercian black Monks, erected in ho∣••••u•• of the Virgin Mary, by the second Simon Earl of Huntington, at Soltry Iudeth, the Land of a Lady of that name, wife of Earl Waltheof, daughter of Lambert Earl of Leins, Neece to the Con∣querour by hi•• sister, (her Mother) and Grand-mother to this Founder Malcome, and William, Kings of Scots, Earls of Huntington, and Heirs of this Lady, strengthened by several Charters this pious work. Many chief of that Line, as the last Earl David, brother to King William, as Isabel, the wife of Robert de Brus his daughters Heir; and most of the second branch, her progeny making here their Burials. This house now level with the ground, maintained besides the Abbot, six Monks, and 22 Hindes, and was at the Suppression valued at 199 l. 11 s. 8 d. The Founders and Patrons of this Monastery were the Lords of the next place Conni••gton, first the seat of Turkillus Earl of the East Angles, that invited Swayne from Denmarke to invade this Land; and who first squared out the unbounded marishes of this part, to the bordering Towns; his rule of proportion allowing to euery parish tantum de Marisco, quantum de ••icc•• terra in breadth, in which none, ••ine licentia Domini might vel fodere, vel falcare, but leaving most to inter-common by vicinage. This Dane exiled (when the rest of his Countreymen were by Edward Confessor) his land here was given to Earl waltheof, by whose eldest heir Matild•• married to David King of Scots, it went along in that Male Line, until by death issuless of Iohn Earl of Chester and Huntington, it fell in partage, to his sister Isabel de Brus, one of his Heirs, from whose second Son Bernard, the Family of Cotton by Lineal succession hold∣eth this Land, whereto Glatton the adjoyning Parish is now by bounty of a second branch annex∣ed. It was in this Shire the head of the honour of Bolleine, on which Connington, Walimsford, Sibson, Stibington, and Vescyes Mannor in Chesterton attended: part of it is the fresh Sea Wittlemere, four mile in breadth; over which when Emma, and her Children, the issue of Canutus, sayled with some peril, her Husband in prevention of the like, from Bottesey in a straight course to the opposite firme

land, lined with his Attendant Swords that passage, which since hath born the name of Sword•• Delph, Kings or Canutus dyke. This Seignory was granted by the Conquerour to Eustace Earl of Bollei••, Brother to Lambert Earl of Leins, and Father to Godfrey King of Ierusalem; reverting it was given to Richard Earl of Cornwall, who granted out of it the two Meeres, Vbbe Meere and Brich Meere, in Fee-Farme to the Church of Ramsey. Then after sundry changes it came to Iohn of Gaunt, in exchange of the Earldom of richmond, and so by descent fell again to the Crown. VVashingley, (not far off) from the ancient Lord of that name, by Drw••, and Otter, came to the Princes that now pos••esseth it. In Chesterton from VVadsheafe by Den••yes there is to the Sevils (an ancient name in this Shire) a Mannor descended. The rest from Aegidius de Merk. (who gave there much to Royston Priory) passed by Amundevil to Gloucester, and so to Vescey by exchange. In Elton, the house rich in a beaute∣ous Chappel, from Denham to Sapcotes, and Satl••re Beaumes, from that sirname (near the time of the Conquest) by ••outh to Cornwallis descended; as Bottle-bridge by Gimels, Drayton, Lovet, unto Sherley the now Lord.

(9) LETUNESTANHUNDRED have that name from Leighton, a Town in the midst of it, given by Earl VViltheof to the Church of Lincolne, which after shared it into two Prebendaries. One, the Parsonage impropriate, which still remaineth: the other (the Lordships) was resumed by Henry the eight, and now by the Heir of Darcy matched to the Lord Clifton, is be∣come the seat of the Barony. This Hundred had in it no house of Religion, but Stolney▪ a Priory of seven black Cannons of the order of S. Augustine, founded by the Bigrames, and at the Suppression valued at 62 l. 12 s. 3 d. ob. It stood within the reach of the great Mannor Kimbolton (once an Hundred) which was the Land of Earl Harold the Usurper: after by grant it came with the Chase of Swinesheved to Fitz-Peter, from whom by Mag••avil to Bohum (who in time of the tumul••uous Barons built there a Forcelet) and so to Staffard, by whose attainture forfeited, it was given by

Henry the eight to the Family of Wingfield that now possesseth it. At Bugden the See of Lincoln hath a seat, and was Lord of Spaldwick, and the Soke (given in compensation from the Church of Ely, when rent from them, it was by the first Henry made a Bishoprick) until of late that Church gave up their interest in Spaldwick to the Crown. Brampton was given by King Iohn at Mirabel, to Earl Da∣vid, and by Ada his youngest Daughter fell to Hastings Earl of Pembroke, and now is reverted to the King. To the same Earl David by gift of the former King came Alcumesbury, and by the bounty of Iohn Scot his son to Segrave, and so the Lord Barkley the late possessor. To Serlo de Quincy Earl of Winchester, was Keston by Henry the second given, by whose Heir general ••errars, it came to the late Earl of Essex and by exchange to the Crown.

(10) TOULESLANDHUNDRED, taketh name likewise of a Town therein situ∣ate in the out Angle of this, to the memory of S. Neotus a Monk of Glastenbury, but the supposed son to Ethelwolfe King of the VVest-Saxons (whose body from Neostock in Cornwall was transferred to Ar••alphesbury, then of Arnulphus a holy man, now Enesbury named) Earl Alrick and Ethelsteda turned the Palace of Earl Elfred into a Monastery of black Monks, which was razed by the Danes; but out of the ashes of this, Roisia (wife to Richard the son of Earl Gilbert) to God, our Lady de Becco, and S. Neot (as a Cell to the Abbey of Becco in Normandy) erected up of black Monks in the year 1113, the late Priory of S. Nedes, suppressed by Henry the eight, and valued at 256 l. 15 d. q. At Southo (the Land of Eustachius the Sheriff) Lovetote made the seat of that Seigniory: on which in this Shire 13 Knights Fees and a half depended: but from his line by gift of Verdon and Ves••y drowned were these in the honour of Gloucester. Near to this at Cretingsbury dwelt Sir Adam de Cretings, famous in Edward the thirds wars of France, whose Heir General Wauto•• doth now possess it. Staunton given by the first VVilliam to Gilbert de Gaunt, after the death issueless of De Rupes, escheated to the King, who gave it to Iohn his ••ister Queen of Scots. She on

the Abbey of Tarant bestowed part, the rest reverting being given to Segrave, descended to the Ba∣rons of Berkly, Godmanchester, or Gormanchester (so named of that Dane to whom Aelfred at his con∣version granted some regiment in these parts) was the old Land of the Crown, now the Inhabitants in Fee farme, by grant of King Iohn, pro Sexies viginti libris pondere & numero. It is flat seated by as fruitful and flowry Meadows as any this Kingdom yieldeth, and is the most spacious of any one Pa∣rish in fertile tillage, oft having waited on their Soveraign Lords with ninescore Ploughs in a ru∣ral pompe: Some from the name Gunicester, which this often beareth in record) suppose it the City where Machutus placed his Bishops Chair. But for certain it was the Roman Town Durosipont, of the Bridges named, so many hundred years (until the light of our Britain story overshone it) for∣gotten. Thus as this City, so the old Families have been here with time outworn, few onely (of the many former) now remaining, whose sirnames before the reign of the last Henry were in this Shire of any eminency. But,

Non indignemur mortalia Nomina solvi, Cernimus exemplis Oppida posse mori.

Let's not repine that Men and Names do die, Since stone-built Cities dead and ruin'd lie.

This Description I received from a right worthy and learned Friend.

[illustration]

RVTLANDE SHIRE

RUTLAND-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXIX.

RUTLAND-SHIRE, the least of any County in this Realm, is circulated upon the North with Lincoln-shire; upon the East and South with the River VVeland is parted from Northampton-shire; and the West is altogether held in with Leicester-shire.

(2) The Form thereof is round, and no larger in compass than a light horse man can easily ride about in a day: upon which occasion some will have the Shire named of one Rut, that so rode. But others from the redness of the Soyl, will have it called Rutland; and so the old English-Saxo••s called it, for that Roet and Rut is in their Tongue Red with us, and may very well give the name of this Province, seeing the earth doth stain the wool of her Sheep into a reddish co∣lour. Neither is it strange, that the stain of the Soyl gives names unto places, and that very many: for have we not in Che-shire the Red Rock, in Lanca-shire the Red Bank, and in Wales Rutland Castl••. To speak nothing of that famous Red Sea, which shooteth into the Land betwivt Egypt and Arabia, which gave back her waters for the Israelites to pass on foot: all of them named from the colour of the Soile.

(3) The longest part of this Shire is from Caldecot in the South upon the River Ey, unto Thistle∣ton a small Village seated in the North, not fully twelve miles: and from Timwell East-ward, to Wissenden in the West, her broadest extent is hardly nine: the whole circumference about forty miles.

(4) The Air is good both for health and delight, subject to neither extremity of heat nor cold, nor is greatly troubled with foggy mists.

The Soil is rich, and for Corn and tillage gives place unto none. Woods there are plenty, and many of them imparked, Hills feeding heards of Neat, and flocks of Sheep; Vallies besprinkled with many sweet springs; Grain in abundance, and Pastures not wanting: in a word, all things ministred to the content of life, with a liberal heart and open hand. Only this is objected, that the Circuit is not great.

(5) The draught whereof, that I may acknowledge my duty and his right, I received at the hands of the right Honourable Iohn Lord Harrington, Baron of Exton, done by himself in his younger years.

Near unto his house Burley, standeth Okam a fair Market-Town, which Lordship the said Baron enjoyeth, with a Royalty somewhat extraordinary, which is this: If any Noble by birth come within the precinct of the said Lordship, he shall forfeit as an homage a shooe from the horse where∣on he rideth, unless he redeem it at a price with money. In witness whereof, there are many Horse∣shooes nailed upon the Shire-Hall door, some of large size and ancient fashion, others new, and of our present Nobility; whose names are thereupon stamped as followeth.

• Henry Hastings.
• Roger Rutland.
• Edward L. Russel, Earl of Bedford.
• Ralph L. Euwer of Parram.
• Henry L. Bertley.
• Henry L. Mordant.
• William L. Compton.
• ...

• Edward L. Dudley.
• Henry L. Winsor.
• George Earl of Cumberland.
• Philip Earl of Montgomery.
• L Willoughby.
• P. L Whart••n.
• The Lord Shandois.
• Besides many others without names.

That such homage was his due, the said Lord himself told me; and at that i••st••nt a suit depended in Law against the Earl of Lincoln, who refused to forfeit the penal••y, or to pay his fine.

(6) Her ancient Inhabitant known to the Romans, mentioned in Prolomy, were the Coritani, and by him branched thorow Leicester, Lincoln, Nottingham, Darby-shire, and this: who with the Icenians were subdued by P. Ostorius under the yoke of Claudius the Roman Emperour: and at their departure, by conquest of the Saxons made it a Province unto their Mercian Kingdom, whose fortunes likewise coming to a full period, the Normans annexed it under their Crown.

(7) This County King Edward Confessor bequeathed by his Testament unto Queen Eadgith his wife, and after her decease unto his Monastery at Westminster, which William the Conquerour can∣celled and made void, bestowing the Lands upon others, the Tithes and the Church unto those Monks.

That the Ferrars here first seated, besides the credit of Writers, the Horse-shooe, whose badge then it was, doth witness; where in the Castle, and now the Shire-Hall, right over the ••eat of the

Iudge, a Horse-shooe of Iron curiously wrought, containing five foot and a half in length, and the breadth thereto proportionably is fixed. The Castle hath been strong, but now is decayed, the Church fair, end the Town spacious; whose degree of Longitude is 19, 46 scruples, and the North-poles elevation in Latitude 53 degrees, and 7 minutes.

(8) Let it not seem offensive, that I (to fill up this little Shire) have inserted the seat of a Town not sited in this County: for besides the conveniency of place, the circuit and beauty, but especi∣ally it being for a time an University, did move much; yea, and the first in this Island, if Iohn Har∣dings Author fail him not, that will have Bladud to bring from Athens certain Philosophers, whom here he seated, and made publick profession of the Liberal Sciences, where (as he saith) a great number of Scolars Studied the Arts, and so continuing an University unto the coming of Augustine, at which time the Bishop of Rome interdicted it, for certain Heresies sprung up among the Britains and Saxons. But most true it is, that the Reign of King Edward the third, upon debate falling be∣twixt the Southern and Northern Students at Oxford, many School-men withdrew themselves hi∣ther, and a while professed, and named a Colledge, according to one in Oxford, Brazen-nose, which retaineth that name unto this day. This was so great a skar unto the other, that when they were recalled by Proclamation to Oxford, it was provided by Oath, that no Student in Oxford should publickly profess or read in the Arts at Stanford, to the prejudice of Oxford.

(9) As this Shire is the least in circuit, so is it with the fewest Market-Towns replenished, having onely two. And from societies that feed upon the labours of others, was this Land the freest: for be∣sides Rishal, where Tibba the Falconers Goddess was worshiped for a Saint, when Superstition had well neer put Gods true hononr out of place, I find very few; neither with more Castles strengthen∣ed than that at Okam, whose ruines shew that a Castle hath been there.

Divided it is into five Hundreds, and therein are planted forty eight Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Leicestershire

LEICESTER SHIRE

LEICESTER-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXX.

LEICESTERSHIRE, lyeth bordered upon the North with Nottingham-shire; upon the East with Lincoln and Rutland; upon the South with Northampton-shire; upon the West with Watling-street-way, is parted from Warwick-shire; the rest being bounded with the con∣fines of Darby, is a County Champion, abounding in Corn, but sparing of woods, especi∣ally in the South and East parts, which are supplyed with Pit-coals plenteously gotten in the North of this Province, and with abundance of Cattle bred in the hills beyond the River Wr••ak, which is nothing so well inhabited as the rest.

(2) The Air is gentle, milde, and temperate, and giveth appetite both to labour and rest: wholesome it is, and draweth mans life to a long age, and that much without sickness; at Carleton onely some defect of pronunciation appeareth in their speech.

(3) The Soil thus consisting, the Commodities are raised accordingly of Corn, Cattle, and Coals; and in the Rocks near Bever are sometimes found the Astroites, the Star-like precious Stone.

(4) The ancient people that inhabited this County, were the Coritani, who were spread further into other Shires, but after that the Romans had left the Land to it self, this with many more fell to be under the possession and government of the Mercians, and their Kings, from whom the English enjoyed it at this day.

(5) In Circular-wise (almost) the compass of this Shire is drawn indifferently spacious, but not very thick of Inclosures, being from East to West in the broadest part not fully 30 miles, and

from North to South but 24 the whole circumference about 196 miles: whose principal City is set, as the Center, almost in the midst; from whom the Pole is elevated 53 degrees, and 4 minutes in Lari∣tude, and for Longitude, 19 degrees, 22 minutes.

(6) From this Town the Shire hath the name, though the name of her self is diversly written, as Legecestria, Legara, Leg••o-cester: by Ninius, Caer-Lerion; by Matthew of Westminster (if we do not mistake him) ••irall; and now lastly, Leicester: ancient enough if King Leir was her builder, eight hundred and forty and four years before the birth of our Saviour, wherein he placed a Flamine to serve in the Temple of Ianus, by himself there erected, and where he was buried, if Ieffery ap Ar∣thur say true: but now certain it is, that Ethelred the Mercian Monarch made it an Episcopal See, in the year of Christ Iesus 680, wherein Sexwul•••• of his el••ction became the first Bishop; which short∣ly after was thence translated, and therewith the beauty of the Town began to decay; upon whole desolations that erectifying Lady Edelfled cast her eyes of compassion, and both re-edified the build∣ings, and compassed it about with a strong wall, where, in short time the Cities Trade so increased, that Matthew Paris in his lesser Stor•• reporteth as followeth; Lege-cester (saith he) is a right wealthy City, and notably defe••ded; and had the wall a sure foundation, were inferiour to no City whatsoever. But this pride of prosperity long lasted not under the Normans, for it was sore oppressed with a world of Calamities, when Robert Bossu the Crouch-back Earl of that Province, rebelled against his Sove∣••aign Lord King Henry the second: whereof hear the same Author Paris speak: Through the obstina••e stubbornness of Earl Robert (saith he) the whole City Leicester was besieged and thrown down by King Henry, and the Wall that seemed indissoluble, was utterly raced even to the ground. The pieces of these Fragments so fallen down remained in his days like to hard Rocks, through the strength of the Morter cementing whole lumps together: and at the Kings command the City was set on fire and burnt, the Castle raced, and a heavy imposition laid upon the Citizens, who with

great sums of money bought their own banishments: but were so used in their departure, that for extream fear many of them took Sanctuary, both at S. Edmunds and S. Albans, In repentance of these mischiefs, the Author thereof, Earl Robert, built the Monastery of S. Mary de Pratis, wherein himself became a Canon Regular, and for fifteen years continuance in sad laments served God in continual prayers. With the like devotion, Henry the first Duke of Lancaster built an Hospi∣tal, for an hundred and ten poor people, with a Collegiate Church, a Dean, twelve Canons Preben∣daries, as many Vicars, suffciently provided for with Revenues; wherein himself lyeth buried: and it was the greatest ornament of that City, until the hand of King Henry the eighth lay over-heavy upon all the like foundations; and laid their aspiring tops at his own feet.

The fortunes of another Crouch-back (King Richard Usurper) who no less remarkable in this City than the former Robert was, both of them in like degree of dishonourable course of life, though of different issue at their deaths, the one dying penitent and of devout esteem; the other leaving the stench of Tyranny to all following ages; who from this City setting forth in one day with great pompe, and in Battle aray, to keep the Crown sure upon his own Helmet, in a sore fought field, yieldeth both it and his life, unto the head and hands of Henry of Richmond his Conque∣rour: and the next day was brought back, like a Hog, naked and torn, and with contempt, without tears obscurely buried in the Gray Friers of this City; whose suppression had suppressed the plot place of his grave, and only the stone-chest wherein he was laid (a drinking trough now for horses in a common Inn) retaineth the memory of that great Monarchs Funeral: and so did a stone in the Church and Chappel of S. Maries; inclose the Corps of the proud and pontifical cardinal Wolsey, who had prepared for himself, as was said, a far more richer Monument.

(7) Other places worthy of remembrance in this Shire were these: In the West, where a high Cross was erected, in former times stood the fair City Cleycester, the Romans BENONNE,

where their Legions lay, and where their two principal ways crossed each other, as the Inhabi∣tants report: Loughborow in the North verge, was (as Marianus affirmeth) taken from the Britains by Cuthwolse their King, about the year of Christ 572.

At Redmore, near Bosworth, Westward in this County, the Kingdom of England lay in hazard of one Battle, when King Richards field was fought, where the Land at once was free from a Ty∣rant and wicked Usurper. Neither may we pass Lutterworth, as the least in account, where the fa∣mous Iohn Wickliff, Englands Morning star, dispersed the clouds of all Papistical darkness, by preach∣ing the Gospel in that his charge; the stile of his pen, so piercing in power, that the man of Sin ever since hath been better known to the world.

(8) Religious houses by Princes erected, and by them devoted to God and his service, the chie∣fest in this Shire were at Leicester, Grace-Dieu, Kerby-Bellers, and at Burton a Spittle for Lazers, a dis∣ease then newly approached in this Land, for the erection whereof a common contribution was ga∣thered thorow the Realm: the patients in this place were not so much deformed in skin, as the o∣ther were in the defects of the soul; whose skirts being turned up to the sight of the world, their shames were discovered, and those houses dissolved, that had long maintained such Idolatrous sins.

(9) This Shires division is into six Hundreds, and in them are seated twelve Market-Towns for commerce, and containeth in circuit two hundred Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Lincolnshire

LINCOLNE SHIRE

LINCOLN-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXI.

THe County of Lincoln, by the Normans called Nicolshire, is confined on the North with Hamber, on the East with the German Ocean, upon the South, is parted from Cam∣bridge and Northampton-shire by the River Nyne; and on the West from Nottingham and York-shires by Dun and Trent.

(2) The length of this Province extendeth from Barton unto Humber in the North, unto Stanford upon the River Nyne in the South, are miles by our English mea∣sure fifty five, and the breadth thereof from Newton in the West stretched unto Winthorp upon her East Sea containeth thirty five. The whole in circumference about one hundred and eighty miles.

(3) The Air upon the East and South part is both thick and foggy, by reason of the Fens and un∣solute grounds, but therewithal very moderate and pleasing. Her graduation being removed from the Aequator to the degree of 53 and the winds that are ••ent of her still working-Sea•• to disperse those va∣pours from all power of hurt.

(4) The Form of this County doth somewhat resemble the body of a Lute, whose East-coasts lye bow-like into the German-Ocean, all along pestered with inlets of salt waters and sands, which are neither firm nor safe for travellers, as those in the South proved unto King Iohn, who marching North∣ward from Northfolk, against his disloyal Barons, upon those washes lost all his furniture and carriage by the sudden return of the Sea, and softness of the Sands.

(5) Her Soil upon the West and North is abundantly fertile, pleasant and rich, stored with pasturage, arable and meadowing grounds; the East and South Fenny and brackish, and for Corn,

barren; but for fowl and fi••h exceeding any other in the Realm; wherein, at some times and sea∣sons of the year, hath been taken in nets, in August, at one draught, aboue three thousand Mallards, and other Fowls of the like kind.

(6) The Shires commodities consist chiefly in Corn, Cattle, Fish, Fowl, Flax and Alablaster; as also in a Plaister much esteemed of by the Romans for their works of Imagery; and whereof Pliny in his Natural History maketh mention. And the Astori••es, a precious sto••e, Star-like, point∣ed with five beams or rays, anciently esteemed for their vertue in victories, upon the South-west of this County near Bever are found: not far thence in our Fathers memory, at Harlaxton was ploughed up a brazen vessel, wherein was inclosed a golden Helmet of an ancient fashion, set with precious stones, which was presented to Katherine of Spain, Wife and Dowager to King Henry the eighth.

(7) This Shire triumpheth in the birth of Beauclerk, King Henry the first, whom Selby brought forth, and of King Henry the fourth, at Bullingbrooke born; but may as justly lament for the death of King Iohn, herein poisoned by Simon a Monk of Swynsted Abbey; and of Queen Eleanor, wife to King Edward the first, the mirrour of wedlock, and love to the Commons, who at Hardby, near Bullingbrooke, his birth-place, ended her life.

(8) Trade and commerce for provision of life is vented thorow thirty one Market-Towns in this Shire, whereof Lincoln the Counties Namer is chief, by Ptolomy and Antonine called Lindum, by Beda Linde-Collina, and by the Normans, Nichol. Very antient it is, and hath been more Magni∣fical, as by her many overturned ruines doth appear, and far more populous, as by Doomesdayes Book is seen, where it is recorded that this City contained a thousand and seven mansions, and nine hundred Burgesses with twelve Lage-men, having Sac and Soc. And in the Normans time, saith Malmesbury, it was one of the best Cities of England, being a place of traffick of Merchan∣dize

for all commerce by Land or Sea. Herein King Edward the third ordained his Staple for the Mart of Wools, Leather and Lead; and no less than fifty Parish-Churches did beautifie the same: but now containeth onely fifteen, besides the Cathedral. Some ruines yet remain both of ••riari••s, and Nunneries, who lie buried in their own ashes, and the City conquered, not by war, but by time and very age: and yet hath she not escaped the calamity of Sword, as in the time of the Saxons, whence Arthur enforced their Host: the like also did Edmund to the destroying Danes; and by the Normans it suffered some damage, where King Stephen was vanquished and taken prisoner; and a∣gain, by the third Henry, that assaulted and wa•• it from his rebellious Barons. By fire likewise it was for defaced, wherein not only the buildings were consumed, but wihal many men and women in the violence thereof perished: as also by an Earth quake her foundation was much weakened and shaken, wherein the fair Cathedral Church, dedicated to the Virgin of Virgins, was rent in pieces. The government of this City is committed yearly to a Mayor, two Sheriffs, twelve Aldermen in Scarlet, a Sword, a Hat of Estate, a Recorder, Sword-bearer, and four Serjeants with Maces: whose situation on a steep hill standeth for Longitude, in the degree 20, 10 scruples, the Pole elevated for Latitude from the degree 53, and 50 scruples.

(9) Much hath been the devotion of Princes in building of religious houses in this County, as at Crowland, Lincoln, Markby, Leyborn, Grenfeld, Alvingham, Newnersby, Grymmysby, Newsted, Elshaw, Stansfeld, Syxhill, Torkesey, Bryggerd, Thor••eholme, Nuncotten, Fosse, Hovings, Axholme Isle, Gokewell, S. Michaels near Stamford, Swyneshed, Spalding, Kirkested, &c.

(10) Commotions in this shire were raised the eight and twentieth of King Henry the Eight, where twenty thousand making insurrection, violently sware certain Lords and Gentlemen to their Articles. But no sooner they heard of the Kings power coming, but they dispersed them∣selves,

and sued for pardon. And again in the third year of King Edward the Sixt, in ease of Inclo∣sures, Lincoln rose in seditious manner, as did they of Cornwall, Devonshire, York-shire, and Norfolk: but after some slaughters of their chiefest men, were reduced to former obedience.

The Shires division is into three principal parts, viz. Lindsey, Kesteven, and Holland; Lindsey is subdi∣vided into seventeen Hundreds, Kesteven into eleven, and Holland into three, containing in all thirty one, wherein are situated thirty Market-Towns, and six hundred thirty Parish Churches.

[illustration] map of Nottinghamshire

NOTTINGHĀ SHIRE

NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXII.

NOTTINGHAM-SHIRE (from Nottingham her chiefest Town hath the Name, and that, somewhat softned from the Saxons Snoddenzaham, for the many Dens or Caves wrought in her Rocks and under ground) lyeth bordered upon the North and North-west with York-shire; upon the East a good distance by Trent is parted from, and with Lincoln-shire altogether confined: the South with Leicester-shire; and the West by the River Erwash is separated from Darby-shire.

(2) For Form long and Oval-wise, doubling in length twice her breadth, whose extreams are thus extended and distance observed: From Feningley North of Steanford in the South, are thirty eight English miles; West part from Teversal to Besthorp in the East, are little more than nineteen; whose circumference draweth much upon one hundred and ten miles.

(3) The Air is good, wholsome and delectable: the Soyl is rich, sandy and clayie, as by the names of that Counties divisions may appear: and surely for Corn and Grass of fruitful, that it se∣condeth any other in the Realm: and for Water, Words, and Canell Coals abundantly stored.

(4) Therein groweth a Stone softer then Alabaster, but being burnt maketh a plaister harder than that of Paris,; wherewith they floor their upper Rooms; for betwixt the Ioysts they lay only long Bulrushes, and thereon spread this Plaister, which being throughly dry becomes most solid and hard, so that it seemeth rather to be firm stone than mortar, and is trod upon without all danger.

In the West near Worksop, groweth plenty of Liquo••ice, very delicious and good.

(5) More South in this Shire, at Stoke, in the Reign of King Henry the seventh, a great ba••te was fought by Iohn De-la-Poole Earl of Lincoln, which Richard the U••urper had declared his heir apparent; but Richard losing his life, and De-la-Poole his hopes, in seeking here to set up a Lambert, fell down himself: and at Newark, after many troubles, King Iohn got his peace with the end of his life.

(6) Trade and Commerce for the Counties provision is frequented in eight Market-Towns in this Shire, whereof Nottingham is both the greatest and best, a Town seated most pleasant and delicate upon a high hill for building stately, a number of fair streets, surpassing and surmount∣ing many other Cities, and for a spacious and most fair Market-place, doth compare with the best. Many strange Vaults ••ewed o••t of the Rocks, in this Town are seen; and those under the Castle of an especial note, one for the story of Christs Passion engr••••en in the Walls, and cut by the hand of David the second King of Scots, whilst he was therein detained Prisoner. Another wherein Lord Mortimer was ••upprized in the non-age of King Edward the Third, ever since bearing the name of Mortimers Hole; these have their Stairs and several Rooms made artificially even out of the Rocks: as also in that Hill are dwelling Houses, with Winding-stairs, Windows, Chimneys, and Room above Room, wrought all out of the solid Rock. The Castle is strong, and was kept by the Danes against Burthred, Ethelred, and Elfred the Mercian, and West-Saxon Kings, who together laid their siege against it: and for the further strenght of the Town, King Edward sirnamed the Elder, walled it about, whereof ••ome part as yet remains, from the Castle to the West-gate, and thence the foundation may be perceived to the North: where in the midst of the way ranging with this bank, stands a Gate of Stone, and the same Tract passing along the North part may well be

perceived; the rest to the River and thence to the Castle are built upon, and thereby buried from sight: whose circuit, as I took it, extendeth two thousand one hundred twenty paces.

(7) In the wars betwixt Stephen and Maud the Empress, by Robert Earl of Glocester these Walls were cast down, when also the Town it self suffered the calamity of fire: but recovered to her former estate, hath since increased in beauty and wealth, and at this day is governed by a Mayor and six Al∣dermen, clad in Scarlet, two Sheriffs, two Chamberlains, a Town-Clark, and six Sergeants with Maces, their attenders; whose position hath the Pole elevated fifty three degrees, 25 minutes in Lati∣tude, and hath the Meridian nine degrees and 25 minutes. This Town hath been honoured by these Princes Titles, and these Princes dignified with the Earldom of Nottingham, whose several Arms and Names are in the great Map expressed.

Religious houses that have been erected and now suppressed in the compass of this County, chiefly were Newsted, Lenton, Shelford, Southwell, Thurgarton, Blith, Welbeck, and Radford; in Nottingham the White and Gray Friers, besides a little Chappel dedicated to S. Iohn. All which shew the devoti∣ons of those former times; which their remembrance may move, if not condemn us, that have more knowledg, but far less piety.

The Shires division is principally into two: which the Inhabitants term the Sand and the Clay; but for Tax to the Crown, or service for State, is parted into eight Wapentakes or Hundreds, wherein are seated 168 Parishes Churches.

[illustration] map of Derbyshire

DARBY SHIRE

DARBY-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

DARBY-SHIRE lieth inclosed upon her North parts with York-shire; upon the East with Nottingham-shire; upon the South of Leicester-shire; and upon the West is par∣ted with the Rivers Dove and Goyt from Stafford and Chess-shires.

(2) It is in Form somewhat triangle, though not of any equal distance, growing from her narrow South-point still wider, and in the North is at the broadest: For from Stretton near the head of Mese, to New-Chappel seated near the head of Der∣went the two extreams from North to South are thirty eight miles: but from the Shire-Oaks unto the meeting of Mersey and Goyt, the broadest part of all this Shire is not full twenty nine; the whole in circumference ex••endeth to an hundred and thirty miles.

(3) The Air is good and very healthful; the Soil is rich, especially in her South and East parts; but in the North and West is hilly, with a black and mossie ground, both of them fast handed, to the Ploughers pains, though very liberal in her other gifts, whose natures thus dissenting, the Ri∣ver Derwent doth divide asunder, that taketh course thorow the heart or the midst of this County.

(4) The Ancient People that possessed these parts in the times of the Roman assaults, were the Coritani, whom Ptolomy dispersed thorow Northampton-shire, Leicester, Rutland, Lincoln, Notting∣ham, and this Shire, who were all of them subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula, Lieutenant in this Province for Claudius the Emperour. But Romes Empire falling in Britain, by the intestine Wars among themselves▪ the Saxons (a more savege and fearful Nation) soon brought it▪ under their sub∣jection,

and made this a Province unto their Mercians Kingdome, whom the West-Saxons first wan and again lost to the Normans.

(5) It is stored with many commodities, and them of much worth; for besides woods and Cattle, Sheep and Corn, every where over spreading the face of this County, the Mill-stone, Crystal and Alablaster, the Mines of Pit-coal, Iron, and Lead, are of great price, whereof the last is menti∣oned in Pliny who writeth, that, in Britaine, in the very crust of the Ground, without any deep digging, is gotten so great store of Lead, and there is a Law expresly made of purpose, forbiding men to make more than to a certain stint, whose stores are plente••usly gotten in tho••e Mountains, and melted into Sowes to no small profit of the Country. There is found also in certain veins of the earth-Stibium, which the Apothecaries call Antimonium, and the Alchymists hold in great esteem.

(6) Places of Commerce, or memorable note, the first is Darby, the Shire-Town, called by the Danes Deoraby, seated upon the West-bank of Derwent, where also a small Brook rising Westward, runneth thorow the Town under nine Bridges before it meets with her far greater River Derwent, which presently it doth, after she hath passed Tenant-Bridge in the South-East of the Town. But a Bridge of more beauty built all of Free-stone, is passed over Derwent in the North-East of the Tow••, whereon standeth a fair stone Chappel, both of them bearing the names of S. Maries▪ five other Churches are in this Town, the chief whereof is called Alh••llows, whose Steeple or Bell-Tower being both beautiful and high, was built only at the charges of young Men and Maids, as is witnessed by the inscription cut in the same upon every square of the Steeple. Among the miserable desolations of the Danes, this Town bare a part, but by the Lady Ethelfleda was again repaired, and is at this day in∣corporated with the yearly government of two Bailiffs, elect out of twenty four Brethren, besides as many Burges of Common-Councel, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and two Sergeants with Mace; whose Graduation is observed from the Aequator to be 53 degrees, 25 scruples, and from the first point in the West, 19 degrees, 2 scruples.

(7) Little-Chester (by the Romish Money there daily) seemeth to have been ancient, and that a Colony of of the Roman Souldiers there lay. Yet of far greater Fame was R••pandunum, now Rep••on, where Ethelbald the ninth King of the Mercia••s, and fifteenth Monarch of the Englishmen, slain at Seg∣g••swald by the treason of his Subjects, was interred: and whence Burt••red, the last King of that Peo∣p••e, was exp••lsed with his Queen Ethelswith, by the rage of the Danes, after twenty two years Reign. But with a more pleasing eye we may behold Melborn, the Memorial of Englishmens great valour, where in that Castle was kept prisoner Iohn Duke of Burbon, taken Captive in the Battle of Agincourt, and therein detained the space of nineteen years.

(8) Thing•• of stranger note are the hot Water-springs bursting forth of the ground at Buxton, where out of the Rock within the compass of eight yards, nine Springs arise, eight of them warm, but the ninth very cold. These run from under a fair square building of Free-stone, and about three∣score paces off received another hot Spring from a Well, inclosed with four flat Stones, called Saint Anns; near unto which, another very cold Spring bubled up. The report goeth among the by∣dwellers, that great cure•• by these waters have been done: but daily experience sheweth, that they are good for the Stomack and Sinews, and very pleasant to bathe the body in. Not far thence is El∣d••n hole, whereof strange things have been told, and this is confidently affirmed, the waters that trickle from the top of that Cave (which indeed is very spacious, but of low and narrow entrance) do con∣geal into stone, and hang as is••ckles in the Roof, some of them were shewed at my being there, which like unto such as the Frost congealeth, were hollow within, and grew Taper-wise towards their points, very white, and somewhat Chrystal-like. And seven miles thence upon a mounted-hill, standeth a Castle, under which there is a Hole or Cave in the ground of a marvellous capacity, which is common∣ly called The Devils Arse in the Peak, whereof Gervase of Tilbury hath told many pretty▪ Tales, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 do make it one of the wonders of our Land.

(9) As in••other Csounties the devotions of the Religious have been made apparent in the erectio•• of Places for Gods peculiar Service; so in this have been founded eight of that nature, which wer•• Dale, Derelege, Darby, Repton, Bechef, Graiesley, Faverwell, and Pollewerke: whose peace and plenty stood secure from all danger, till the blustering Winds arising in the Reign of King Henry the Eight, blew off the Pinacles of their beauteous Buildings, and shook asunder the revenues of those Foundati∣ons which never are like again to be laid.

(10) This Shire is divided into six hundreds, wherein have been seated seven Castles, and is still traded with eight Market-Towns, and replenished with one Hundred and six Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Staffordshire

Staffordshir

STAFFORD-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

STAFFORD-SHIRE, whose situation is much about the middle of England, mee••eth upon the North with Chess-shire and Darby, and that in a Triangle point, where three Stones are pitched for the bounds of these Shires; it is parted from Darby-shire on the East with Dowe and with Trent; the South is confined with Warwick and Worcester-shires, and the West butteth against the County of Shrop-shire.

(2) The form thereof is somewhat Lozeng-like, that is, sharp at both ends, and broadest in the midst. The lengh extending from North to South, is by measure forty four miles; and the breadth from East to West, twenty seven miles; the whole in Circumference one hundred and forty miles.

(3) The Air is good and very healthful, though over sharp in her North and Moreland, where the Snow lyeth long and the Wind bloweth cold.

(4) The Soil in that part is barren of Corn, because her Hills and Moors are no friends unto Til∣lage: the middle more level, but therewithal wooddy, as well witnesseth that great one, called the Cank. But the South is most plenteous in Corn and Pasturage.

(5) Her ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII, whom Ptolomy placeth in the Tract that containeth Shrop-shire, Worcester-shire, Chess-shire, and this: all which were p••s••essed by the Mercian-Saxons, when their Heptarchy slourished. And Tameworth in this Shire was then held their King•• Court. The Danes after them often assayed herein to have seated, as witnesseth T••trall, then Theo∣ten••••ll, by inte••pretation, The habitation of Pagans, imbrued with their blood by King 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Fl∣der.

But the Inhabitants of this Province Beda terms The midland-Englishmen, because to his seem∣ing it lay in the heart of the Land, which when the Normans had made Conquest of all, many of them set down their rest here, whose posterity at this day are fairly and further branched into other parts.

(6) The Commodities of this County consist chiefly in Corn, Ca••tle, Alablaster, Woods, and I∣ron, (if the one prove not the destruction of the other) Pit-coal, Flesh and Fish, whereof the River Trent is said to swarm: and others arising and running thorow this Shire, do so bat••en the ground, that the Meadows, even in the midst of Winter, grow green: such are Dowe, Manifold, Churnot, Hun∣sye, Yenden, Tean, Blith, Trent, Tyne, and Sowe; whereof Trent is not only the principal, but in esteem accounted the third of this Land.

(7) Stafford the Shire-Town, anciently B••theney, from Ber••elin, a reputed holy Man that therein lead an Hermits life, was built by King Edward the Elder, incorporated by King Iohn, and upon the East and South Parts was Walled and Trenched by the Barons of the Place: the rest from East to North was secured by a large Pool of Water, which now is become fair Meadow-grounds. The tract and circuit of these Walls extended to twelve hundred and forty Paces, thorow which four Gates into the four Winds have passage, the River Sowe running on the South and West of the Town. King Ed∣ward the Sixt did incorporate the Burgesses▪ and gave them a perpetual Succession, whose Government in under two Bailiffs, yearly elected out of one and twenty Assistants, called the Common-Counsel, a Recorder, whereof the Dukes of Buckingham have born the Office, and as yet is kept a Court of Record, wherein they hold Plea without limitation of summe; a Town-Clerk also, (from whose Pen I received these Instructions) and to attend them two Sergeants at Mace. This Town is sited in the degree of Latitude 53, 20 scruples, and of Longitude 18, and 40 scurples.

(8) But Leichfield, more large, and of far greater fame, is much her ancient, known unto 〈◊〉〈◊〉 by the name of Licidfeld, which Rosse doth interpret to be The field of dead bodies, for the number of Saints under the rage of Dioclesian there slain: upon which cause the City beareth for her Arms an Eschucheon of Landskip, with divers Martyrs in divers manner Massacred. Here Oswin King of Nor∣thumberland overcoming the Pagan-Mercians, built a Church, and made it the See of Duma the Bi∣shop: whose Successors grown rich, with golden reasons so overcame King Offa, and he Adrian the Pope, that an Archiepiscopal Pale was granted Bishop Eadulph, to the great disgrace of Lambert Arch∣bishop of Canterbury. In this Church were interred the Bodie of VVulfhere and Celred, both of them Kings of the Mercians. But when the minds of Men were set altogether upon gorgeous building, this old Foundation was new reared Roger Clinton, Bishop this See, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and Saint Chad, and the Close inwalled by Bishop Langton. The government of this City is by two Bai∣liffs and one Sheriff, yearly chosen out of twenty four Burgess••s, a Recorder a Town-Clerck, and two Sergeants their Attendants

(9) Houses of Religion erected in this Shire, were at Leichfield, Stafford, De la Crosse, Cruxden, Trentham, Burton, Tamworth, and VVolver-hampton. These Votaries abusing their Founders true pie∣ties, and heaping up Riches with disdain of the Laity, laid themselves open as marks to be shot at: whom the hand of the skilful soon hit and quite pierced, under the aim of King Henry the Eighth, who with such Revenues in most places, relieved the Poor and the Orphans, with Schools and maintenace for the training up of Youth: a work no doubt more acceptable to God, and of more charitable use to the Land:

(10) With thirteen Castles this County hath been strengthned, and in Thirteen Market-Towns her Commodities traded, being divided into five Hundreds, and in them seated one hundred and thirty Parish-Churches.

[illustration] map of Shropshire

Shropshire

Petrus Kaerius caelavit.

SHROP-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXV.

SHROP-SHIRE, is both large in circuit, well peopled, and very fruitful for life. It lyeth circulated upon the North with the County Palatine of Chester; upon the East altogether with Stafford-shire; upon the South with Worcester, Hereford, and Radnor-shire; and upon the West with Mountgom••ry and Denbigh.

(2) The form thereof is almost circular or round, whose length from Wooserton below Lodlane South, to Over neer unto the River Trent in the North, is thirty four miles: the broadest part is from Tong in the East, to Oswestre fited at the head of Morda in the West, twenty and five miles: the whole in circuit about, extending to one hundred thirty four miles.

(3) Wholesome is the Air, delectable and good, yielding the Spring and the Autumn, Seed-time and Harvest, in a temperate condition, and affordeth health to the Inhabitants in all seasons of the year.

(4) The Soil is rich, and standeth most upon a reddish Clay, abounding in Wheat and Barley, Pit∣coals, Iron and Woods; which two last continue not long in league together. It hath Rivers that make fruitful the Land, and in their Waters contain great store of fresh-fish, whereof Severn is the chief, and second in the Realm, whose stream cutteth this County in the midst, and with many wind∣ing sporteth her self forward, leaving both Pastures and Meadows bedecked with flowers and green colours, which every where she bestoweth upon such her attendants.

(5) This River was once the bounds of the North-Britains, and divided their possession from the Land of the Saxons, until of latter times their began to decay, and the Welsh to increase, who

enlarged their lists to the River Dee. So formerly had it separated the Ordovices from the Cornav••••, those ancient Inhabitants mentioned by Ptolomy. The Ordovices under Caractacus purchased great honour, whilst he a Prince of the Silures removed his Wars thence among them, where a while he maintained the Britains liberty with valour and courage, in despite of the Romans. His Fort is yet witness of his unfortunate Fight, seated near Clune-Castle, at the confluence of that River with Temd, where (in remembrance of him) the place is yet called Caer-Caradoc, a Fort of his won by P. Ostorius Lieutenant of the Romans, about the year of Grace 53. The Cornavii were seated upon the North of Severn, and branched into other Counties, of whom we have said.

(6) But when the strength of the Romans was too weak to support their own Empire, and Britain emptied of her Souldiers to resist, the Saxons set foot in this most fair Soil, and made it a part of their Mercian Kingdom: their line likewise issued to the last period, and the Normans beginning where these Saxons left, the VVelshmen took advantage of all present occasions, and brake over Severn unto the River Dee; to recover which, the Normans first Kings often assayed, and Henry the Second with such danger of Life, that at the Siege of Bridge-North he had been slain, had not Sir Hubert Syncler received the Arrow aimed at him, in stepping betwixt that Shaft and his Soveraign, and therewith was shot thorow unto death. In the like danger stood Henry Prince of Scotland, who in the strait Siege of Ludlow, begirt by King Stephen, had been plucked from his Saddle with an Iron-hook from the Wall, had not Stephen presently rescued him, Anno 1139.

(7) This then being the Marches of England and VVales, was sore afflicted by bloody broils, which caused many of their Towns to be strongly walled, and thirty two Castles to be strongly built: Lastly, into this County the most wise King Henry the Seventh sent his eldest Son Prince Arthur, to be resident at Ludlow, where that fair Castle became a most famous Princes Court And here King Henry the Eight ordained the Council of the Marches, consisting of a Lord Presi∣dent

as many Counsellors as the Prince shall please, a Secretary, an Attorney, a Soliciter, and four Iustices of the Counties in Wales, in whose Court were pleaded the Causes depending and termly tried for the most part in presence of that honourable President.

(8) But the Shire-Town Shrewsbury, for circuit, trade and wealth, doth far exceed this, and is in∣feriour to few of our Cities, her buildings fair, her streets many and large, her Citizens rich, her trade for the most part in the Staple Commodities of Cloth and Freeses; her Walls strong and of a large compass, extending to seventeen hundred pa••es about, besides another Bulwark ranging from the Castle, down unto and in part along the side of Severn: thorow which there are three entrances into the Town, East and West, over by two fair Stone-Bridges, with Towers, Gates and Bars, and the third into the North, no less strong than them over which is mounted a large Castle, whose gaping chinks do doubtless threaten her fall. This Town is governed by two Bailiffs, yearly elected out or twenty four Burgesses, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and Chamberlain, with three Sergeants at Mace: the Pole being raised hence from the degrees of Latitude 53, 16 minutes, and from West in Longitude 17 degrees, 27 minutes.

(9) Yea and ancienter Cities have been set in this Shire: such was R••xalter, or Wroxcester, low∣er upon Severn, that had been Vriconium, the chiefest City of the Cornavii; Vfoc••nia, now Okenyate•• near unto the Wrekin: and under Red-Castle the Ruins of a City, whom the Vulgar report to have been famous in Arthurs daies: but the pieces of Romish Coins in these three do well assure us that therein their Legions lodged; as many other Trenches are signs of War and of Blood. But as Swords have been stirring in most parts of this Province, so Beads have been hid for the preser∣vation of the whole, and places erected for the maintenance of Votaries in whom at that time was imputed great holiness; in Shrewsbury many, at Coulmere, Stow, Dudley, Bromfield, Wigmore, Ha∣mond,

Lyleshill, Bildas, Bishops-Castle, and W••nloke, (where in the Reign of Richard the Second, was likewise a rich Mine of Copper. But the same blasts that blew down the Buds of such Plants, scattered also the Fruits from these fair Trees, which never since bare the like, nor is likely any more to do.

That only which is rare in this Province, is a Well at Pitchford in a private mans yard, whereupon floateth a thick Skum of liquid Bitumen which being clear off to day, will gather the like again on the Morrow: not much unlike to the Lake in the Land of Iewry.

This Shire is divided into fifteen Hundreds, wherein are seated fourteen Market-Towns: and hath in it one hundred and seventy Churches for Gods sacred and divine Service.

[illustration] map of the County Palatine of Chester

CHESTER

Petrus Kaerius caeelavit.

The County Palatine of CHESTER.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

CHESSE-SHIRE; the County, Palatine of Chester, is parted upon the North from Lancashire with the River Mercey; upon the East by Mercey, Goit, and the Dane, is se∣parated from Dar••y and Stafford-shires: upon the South toucheth the Counties of Shrop-shire and Flint; and upon the West with Dee is parted from Denbigh-shire.

(2) The form of this County doth much resemble the right Wing of an Eagle, spread∣ing it self from Wirall, and as it were with her Pinion, or first Feather, toucheth York-shire, betwixt which extreams, in following the windings of the Shires divider from East to West, are 47 miles; and from North to South twenty six miles. The whole Circumference about one hundred forty two miles.

(3) If the affection to my natural producer blind not the judgment of this my Survey, for Air and Soyl it equals the best, and far exceeds her Neighbours the next Counties: for although the Climate be cold, and toucheth the degree of Latitude 54, yet the warmth from the Irish-Seas melteth the Snow, and dissolveth Ice sooner there then in those parts that are further off; and so wholsome for life, that the Inhabitants generally attain to many years.

(4) The Soyl is fat, fruitful and rich, yielding abundantly both profit and pleasures for Man. The Champion grounds make glad the hearts of their Tillers: The Meadows imbroydered with divers sweet smelling Flowers, and the Pasture makes the Kines Udder to strout to the Pail, from whom and wherein the best Cheese of all Europe is made.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants were the CORNAVII, who with Warwick-shire, Worcester-shire,

Stafford-shire, and Shrop-shire, spread themselves further into this County, as in Ptolomy is placed; and the Cangi likewise if they be the Cea••gi, whose remembrance was found upon the Shore of this Shire, on the surface of certain pieces of Lead, in this manner inscribed: IMP. DOMIT. AU. GER. DF CEANG. These Cangi were subdued by P. Ostorius Scapula, immediately before his great Vi∣ctory against Caractacus, where in the mouth of Deva he built a Fortress at the back of the Ordovices, to restrain their power, which was great in those parts, in the Reign of Vespasian the Emperour. But after the departure of the Romans, this Province became a Portion of the Saxon-Mercians Kingdom: notwithstanding (saith Ran Higdan) the City it self was held by the Britains until all fell into the Monarchy of Egbert.

Of the dispositions of the fince Inhabitants, hear Lucan the Monk (who lived prelently after the Conquest) speak; They are found (saith he) to differ from the rest of the English, partly better, and partly equal. In feasting they are friendly, at meat chearful, in entertainment liberal, soon a••gry, and soon pacified, lavish in words, impatient of servitude, merciful to the afflicted, compassionate to the poor, kind to their kindred, spary of labour, void of dissimulation, not greedy in eating, and far from dangerous practises.

And let me add thus much, which Lucian could not: namely, that this Shire hath never been stained with the blot of Rebellion, but ever stood true to their King and his Crown: whose loyal∣ty Richard the Second so far found and esteemed, that he held his Person most safe among them and by the Authority of Parliament made the County to be a Principality, and stiled himself Prince of Chester.

King Henry the Third gave it to his eldest Son Prince Edward, against whom Lewlin Prince of Wales gathered a mighty Band, and with them did the County much harm, even unto the Cities Ga••es. With the like scare-fires it had oft times been affrighted, which the ylast••y defenced with

a Wall made of the Welsh-mens Heads, on the South side of Dee in Hambridge.

The Shire may well be said to be a Seed-plot of Gentility, and the producer of many most ancient and worthy Families: neither hath any brought more men of valour into the Field,, than Chess-shire hath done, who by a general speech, are to this day called, The chief of Men: and for Natures endow∣ments (besides their nobleness of minds) may compare with any other Nation in the World: their Limbs straight and well-composed, their complexions fair, with a chearful countenance; and the Wo∣men for grace, feature, and beauty inferiour unto none.

(6) The Commodities of of this Province (by the report of Ranulphus the Monk of Chester) are chiefly Corn, Cattle, Fish, Fowl, Salt, Mines, Metals, Mears and Rivers, whereof the Banks of Dee in her West, and the Vale-Royal in her midst, for fruitfulness of pasturage equals any other in the Land, either in grain or gain from the Cow.

(7) These, with all other provision for life, are traded thorow thirteen Market-Towns in this Shire, whereof Chester is the fairest, from whom the Shire hath the name. A City raised from the Fort of Ostorius, Lieutenant of Britain for Claudius the Emperour, whither the twentieth Legion (na∣med Victrix.) was sent by Galba to restrain the Britains: but grown themselves out of order, Iulius Agricola was appointed their General by Vespasian, as appeareth by Moneys then Minted, and there found; and from them (no doubt) by the Britains the place wa•• called Cder-Legion, by Ptolomy, Denan••; by Antonine, Dena, and now by us West-Chester but Henry Bradshaw will have it built be∣fore Brute, by the Giant Leon Gaver, a Man beyond the Moon, and called by Marius the vanquisher of the Picts.

Over Deva or Dee a fair Stone-bridge leadeth, built upon eight Arches, at either end whereof is a Gate, from whence in a long Quadrant-wise the Walls do incompass the City, high and strong∣ly built, with four fair Gates, opening into the four Winds, besides three 〈◊〉〈◊〉, and seven

Watch-Towers, extending in compass one thousand nine hundred and forty paces.

On the South of this City is mounted a strong and stately Castle, round in form, and the base Court likewise inclosed with a circular Wall. In the North is the Minster, first built by Earl Leofrike to the honour of S. Werburga the Virgin, and after most sumptuously repaired by Hugh the first Earl of Chester of the Normans, now the Cathedral of the Bishops See. Therein lyeth interred (as report doth relate) the body of Henry the Fourth, Emperour of Almane, who leaving his Imperial Estate, lead lastly therein an Hermites life.

This City hath formerly been sore defaced; first by Egfrid King of Northumberland, where he slew twelve hundred Christian Monks, resorted thither from Bangor to pray. Again by the Danes it was sore defaced, when their destroying feet had trampled down the beauty of the Land. But was again re∣built by Edelfleada the Mercian Lady, who in this County, and Forrest of Delamer, built two fine Cities, nothing of them now remaining, besides the Chamber in the Forrest.

Chester in the daies of King Edgar was in most flourishing estate, wherein he had the homage of eight other Kings, who rowed his Barge from S. Iohns to his Palace, himself holding the Helm, as their Supream.

This City was made a County incorporate of it self by King Henry the Seventh, and is yearly governed by a Major, with Sword and Mace born before him in State, two Sheriffs, twenty four Aldermen, a Recorder, a Town-Clerk, and a Serjeant of Peace, four Sergeants, and six ••eomen.

It hath been accounted the Key into Ireland, and great pity it is that the Port should decay as it daily doth, the Sea being stopped to secure the River by a Causey that thwarteth Dee at her bridge. Within the Walls of the City are eight Parish-Churches, St. Iohns the greater and lesser: in the Sub∣urbs are the VVhite-Fryers, Black-Fryers, and Nunnery now suppressed. From which City the Pole

is elevated unto the degree 53, 58 minutes of Latitude, and from the first point of the West in Longi∣tude unto the 17 degree and 18 minutes.

(8) The Earldom whereof was possessed from the Conquerour, till it fell lastly to the Crown, the last of whom (though not with the least hopes) is Prince Henry, who to the Titles of Prince of VVales, and Duke of Cornwall, hath by Succession and Right of Inheritance, the Earld••m of Chester annexed to his most happy Stiles: Upon whose Person I pray that the Angels of Iacobs God may ever attend, to his great glory, and Great Britains happiness.

(9) If I should urge credit unto the report of certain Trees, floating in Bagmere only against the deaths of the Heirs of the Breretons thereby seated, and after to sink until the next like occasion: or inforce for truth the Prophesie which Leyland in a Poetical fury forespake of Beeston-Castle, highly mounted upon a steep Hill: I should forget my self and wonted opinion that can hardly believe any such vain Predictions, though they be told from the mouths of Credit, as Bagmere-Trees are, or learned Leyland for Beesson, who thus writeth:

The day will come when it again shall mount his head aloft. If I a Prophet may be heard from Seers that say so oft.

With eight other Castles this Shire hath been strengthened, which were Ould-Castle, Shocloch, Sho••∣witch, Chester, Pouldford, Dunham, Frodesham, and Haulten: and by the Prayers (as then was taught) of eight Religious Houses therein seated, preserved; which by King Henry the Eight were suppressed; ••••amely, Stanlow, Ilbree, Maxfeld, Norton, Bunbery, Combermere, Rud-neath, and Vale-Royal, besides the VVhite and black Fri••rs, and the Nunnery in Chester.

This Counties division is into seven Hundreds, wherein are seated thirteen Market-Towns, eighty five Parish-Churches and thirty-eight Chappels of Ease.

[illustration] map of the County Palatine of Lancaster

Lancaster

LANCA-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXVII.

THE County Palatine of Lancaster (famous for the four Henries, the fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh, Kings of England, derived from Iohn of Gaunt Duke of Lancaster) is upon the South, confined and parted by the River Mersey, from the County Palatine of Chester; the fair County of Darby-shire bordering upon the East; the large County of York-shire together with Westmerland and Cumberland, being her kind neighbours upon the North, and the Sea called Mare Hibernicum, embracing her upon the West.

(2) The form thereof is long, for it is so inclosed between York-shire on the East side, and the Irish-Sea on the West, that where it boundeth upon Cheshire on the South-side, it is broader, and by little and little more Northward it goeth (confining upon Westmerland) the more narrow it groweth. It containeth in length from Brathey Northward, to Halwood Southward, fifty seven miles; from Den∣ton in the East, to Formby by Altmouth in the West, thirty one; and the whole circumference in com∣pass, one hundred threescore and ten miles.

(3) The Air is subtile and piercing, not troubled with gross vapours or foggy mists, by reason whereof the People of that Country live long and healthfully, and are not subject to strange and un∣known diseases.

(4) The Soil for the generality is not very fruitful, yet it produceth such numbers of Cattel of such large proportion, and such goodly heads, and horns, as the whole Kingdom of Spain doth scarce the like. It is a Country replenished with all necessaries for the use of Man, yielding without any great labour, the commodity of Corn, Flax, Grass, Coals, and such like. The

Sea also addeth her blessing to the Land, that the People of that Province want nothing that serveth either for the sustenance of Nature, or the satiety of appetite. They are plentifully furnished with all sorts of Fish, Flesh, and Fowls. Their principal Fuell is Coal and Turff, which they have in great abundance, the Gentlemen reserving their Woods very carefully, as a beauty and principal ornament to their Mannors and Houses. And though it be far from ••ondon, (the Capital City of this Kingdom) yet doth it every year furnish her and many other parts of the Land besides, with many thousands of Cattel (bred in this Country) giving thereby, and other ways, a firm testimony to the World, of the blessed abundance that it hath pleased God to enrich this noble Dukedom withall.

(5) This Counties ancient Inhabitants were the Brigantes, of whom there is more mention in the description of York-shire, who by Claudius the Emperour were brought under the Roman subjection, that so held aud made it their Seat, secured by their Garrisons, as hath been gathered as well by many Inscriptions found in Walls and ancient Monuments fixed in Stones, as by certain Altars erected in favour of their Emperours. After the Romans, the Saxons brought it under their protection, and held it for a part of their Northumbrian Kingdom, till it was first made subjugate to the Invasion of the Danes, and then conquered by the victorious Normans, whose Posterities from thence are branched fur∣ther into England.

(6) Places of antiquity or memorable note are these: the Town of Manchester (so famous, as well for the Market-Place, Church and Colledge, as for the resort unto it for Clothing) was called Man••u∣nium by Antonine the Emperour, and was made a Fort and Station of the Romans.

Riblechester (which taketh the name from R••ibell, a little River near Clith••r••) though it be a small Town, yet by Tradition hath been called the richest Town in Christendom, and reported to have been the Seat of the Romans, which the many Monuments of their Antiquities, Statues, Pieces of

Coin, and other several Inscriptions, digg'd up from time to time by the Inhabitants, may give us suffici∣ent perswasion to believe.

But the Shire Town is Lancaster, more pleasant in situation, than rich of Inhabitants, built on the South of the River Lon, and is the same Longovicum, where (as we find in the Noti••e Provinces) a com∣pany of the Longovicarians under the Lieutenant General of Britain lay. The beauty of this Town is in the Church, Castle, and Bridge: her Streets many, and stretched fair in length. Unto this Town King Edward the Third granted a Mayor and two Bailiffs, which to this day are elected out of twelve Bre∣thren, assisted by twenty four Burgesses, by whom it is yearly governed, with the supply of two Cham∣berlains, a Recorder, Town-Clerk, and two Sergeants at Mace. The elevation of whose Pole is in the degree of Latitude 54 and 58 scruples, and her Longitude removed from the West point unto the degree 17 and 40 scruples.

(7) This Country in divers places suffereth the force of many flowing Tides of the Sea, by which (after a sort) it doth violently rent asunder one part of the Shire from the other: as in Fourness, where the Ocean being displeased that the shore should from thence shoot a main way into the West, hath not obstinately ceased from time to time to slash and mangle it, and with his Fell irruptions and boy∣sterous Tides to devour it.

Another thing there is, not unworthy to be recommended to memory that in this Shire, not far from Fo••rness-Felles, the greatest standing water in all England (called Winander Mere) lieth, stretched out for the space of ten miles, of wonderful depth, and all paved with stone in the bottom: and along the Sea-side in many places may be seen heaps of sand, upon which the People pour water until it recover a saltish humour, which they afterwards boil with Turffs, till it become white Salt.

(8) This Country, as it is thus on the one side freed by the natural resistance of the Sea from the force of Invasions, so is it strengthened on the other by many Castles, and fortified places, that take

away the opportunity of making Roads and Incursions in the Country. And as it was with the first that felt the fury of the Saxons cruelty, so was it the last and longest that was subdued under the W••st-Saxons Monarchy.

(9) In this Province our noble Arthur (who died laden with many Trophies of honour) is report∣ed by Ninius to have put the Saxons to flight in a memorable Battel near Duglasse, a little Brook not far from the Town of Wiggin. But the attemps of War, as they are several, so they are uncertain; for they made not Duke Wade happy in his success, but returned him an unfortunate enterpriser in the Battel which he gave to Ardulph King of Northumberland at Billango, in the year 798. So were the events uncertain in the Civil Wars of York and Lancaster: for by them was bred and brought forth that bloody division, and fatal strife of the Noble Ho••ses, that with variable success to both Parties (for many years together) molested the peace and quiet of the Land, and defiled the earth with blood, in such violent manner, that it exceeded the horror of those Civil Wars in Rome, that were betwixt Marius and Scylla, Pompey and Caesar, Octavius and Antony; or that of the two re∣nowned Houses Valoys and Burbon, that a long time troubled the State of France: for in the division of these two Princely Families there were thirteen Fields fought, and three Kings of England, one Prince of Wales, twelve Dukes, one Marquess, eighteen Earls, one Vicount, and three and twenty Ba∣rons, besides Knights and Gentlemen, lost their lives in the same. Yet at last by the happy Marriage of Henry the Seventh, King of England, next Heir to the House of Lancaster, with Elizabeth daughter and Heir to Edward the Fourth, of the House of York, the white and red Roses were conjoyned in the happy uniting of those two divided Families, from whence our thrice renowned Soveraign Lord King Iames, by fair sequence and succession, doth worthily enjoy the D••adem: by the benefit of whose hap∣py government, this County Palatine of Lancaster is prosperou•• in her Name and Greatness.

(10) I find the remembrance of four Religious Houses that have been founded within this County (and since suppressed) both fair for Structure and Building, and rich for seat and Situation: namely, Burstogh, VVhalleia, Holland, and Penwortham. It is divided into six Hundreds, besides Fourness Felles, and Lancasters Liberties, that lie in the North part. It is beautified with fifteen Market-Towns, both fair for situation and building, and famous for the concourse of people for buying and selling. It hath twenty six Parishes, besides Chappels, (in which they duly frequent to Divine Service) and those popu∣lous, as in no part of the Land more.

[illustration] map of Yorkshire

York SHIRE

YORK-SHIRE.

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

AS the courses and confluents of great Rivers, are for the most part fresh in memory, though their heads and fountains lie commonly unknown: so the latter knowledg of great Re∣gions, are not traduced to oblivion, though perhaps their first originals be obscure, by reason of Antiquity, and the many revolutions of times and ages. In the delineation therefore of this great Province of York-shire, I will not insist upon the narration of matters near unto us; but succinctly run over such as are more remote: yet neither so sparingly, as I may seem to diminish from the dignity of so worthy a Country; nor so prodigally, as to spend time in superfluous praising of that which never any (as yet) dispraised. And although perhaps it may seem a labour unnecessary, to make relation of ancient remembrances either of the Name or Nature of this Na∣tion, especially looking into the difference of Time it self (which in every age bringeth forth divers ef∣fects) and the dispositions of men, that for the most part take less pleasure in them, than in divulging the occurrents of their own times: yet I hold it not unfit to begin there, from whence the first certain direction is given to proceed; for (even of these ancient things) there may be good use made, either by imitation, or way of comparison, as neither the reperition, nor the repetition thereof shall be ac∣counted impertinent.

(2) You shall therefore understand: That the County of York was in the Saxon-tongue called Ebona ycyne, and now commonly York-shire, far greater and more numerous in the Circuit of her miles, than any Shire of England. She is much bound to the singular love and motherly care of Na∣ture, in placing her under so temperate a clime, that in every measure she is indifferently fruitful.

If one part of her be stone, and a sandy barren ground: another is fertile and richly adorned with Corn-fields. If you here find it naked, and destitute of Woods, you shall see it there shadowed with Forrests full of Trees, that have very thick bodies, sending forth many fruitful and profitable branches- If one place of it be Moorish, miry, and unpleasant; another makes a free tender of delight, and pre∣sents it self to the Eye, full of beauty and contentive variety.

(3) The Bishoprick of Durham fronts her on the North-side, and is separated by a continued course of the River Tees. The German-Sea lyeth sore upon her East-side, beating the shores with her boiste∣rous Waves and Billows. The West part is bounded with Lancashire, and Westmerland. The South∣side hath Cheshire and Darby-shire (friendly Neighbours unto her) with the which she is first inclosed: then with Nottingham and with Lincoln-shires: after divided with that famous Arm of the Sea Humber; Into which all the Rivers that water this Country, empty themselves, and pay their ordinary Tri∣butes, as into the common receptacle and store-house of Neptune, for all the watry Pensions of this Province.

(4) This whole Shire (being of it self so spacious) for the more easie and better ordering of her Civil Government, is divided into three parts: which according to three quarters of the World, are called, The West-Riding, The East-Riding, and The North-Riding. West-Riding is for a good space com∣passed with the River Ouse, with the bounds of Lancashire, and with the South limits of the Shire, and beareth towards the West and South. East-Riding bends it self to the Ocean, with the which, and with the River Derwent she is inclosed, and looks into that part where the Sun rising, and shewing forth his Beams, makes the World both glad and glorious in his brightness. North-Riding extends it self Northward, hemmed in as it were with the River Tees and Derwent, and a long race of the River Ouse. The length of this Shire, extended from Horthill in the South, to the mouth of Tees in the North, are neer unto seventy miles, the breadth from Flambrough-head to Horn-Castle upon the

River Lu••, is fourscore miles; the whole Circumference is three hundred and eight miles.

(5) The Soil of this County for the generality is reasonable fertile, and yields sufficiency of Corn and Cattle within it self. One part whereof is particularly made famous by a Quarry of Stone, out of which the stones newly hewn be very soft, but seasoned with wind and weather of themselves do natu∣rally become exceeding hard and solid. Another, by a kind of Limstone whereof it consisteth, which being burnt, and conveyed into the other parts of the Country, which are hilly and somewhat cold, serve to manure and enrich their Corn fields.

(6) That the Romans flourishing in military prowess, made their several stations in this Country, is made manifest by their Monuments, by many Inscriptions fastned in the Walls of Churches, by ma∣ny Columns engraven with Roman work lying in Church-yards, by many votive Altars digg'd up that were erected (as it should seem) to their Tutelar Gods (for they had local and peculiar Topick Gods, whom they honoured as Keepers and Guardians of some particular Places of the Country) as also by a kind of Brick which they used: for the Romans in time of peace, to avoid and withstand idleness (as an enemy to vertuous and valorous enterprises) still exercised their Legions and Cohorts in casting of Ditches, making of High-ways, building of Bridges, and making of Bricks, which having sithence been found, and from time to time digg'd out of the ground, prove the Antiquity of the place by the Roman Inscriptions upon them.

(7) No less argument of the piety hereof, are the many Monasteries, Abbeys and Religious Houses that have been placed in this Country; which whilest they retained their own state and magnificence, were great ornaments unto it: but since their dissolution, and that the Teeth of Time (which devours all things) have eaten into them, they are become like dead Carkasses▪ leaving only some poor Ruins and Remains alive, as Reliques to Posterity, to shew of what beauty and mag∣nitude they have been. Such was the Abbey of Whitby, founded by Lady Hilda, daughter of the

grand-child unto King Edwine. Such was the Abbey built by Bolton, which is now so razed and laid level with the earth, as that at this time it affords no appearance of the former dignity. Such was Kirk∣s••alt Abbey, of no small account in time past, founded in the year of Christ 1147. Such was the re∣nowned Abbey called S. Maries in York, built and endowed with rich livings by Ala•• the third Earl of Lit•••••• Britain in America; but since converted into the Princes House, and is called The Mannor. Such was the wealthy Abbey of Eo••n••ains, built by Thurstan Archbishop of York. Such was the fa∣mous Monastery founded in the Primitive Church of the East-Saxons, by Wilfrid Archbishop of York, and enlarged (being faln down and decayed) by Od•• Archbishop of Canterbury. Such was Drax, a Religious House of Canons. Such, that fair Abbey built by King William the Conqueror at Selby (where his Son Henry the first was born) in memory of Saint German, who happily confuted that con∣tagious Pel••gia•• Heresie, which oftentimes grew to a Serpentine head in Britain.

These places for Religion erected, with many more within this Provincial Circuit, and consecrated unto holy purposes, shew the antiquity, and how they have been sought unto by confluences of Pilgrims in their manner of Devotions: The mists of which superstitious obscurities, are since cleared by the pure light of the Gospel revealed, and the skirts of Idolatry unfolded to her own shame and ignominy: And they made subject to the dissolution of Times, serving only as antique Monuments and remem∣brances to the memory of succeeding Ages.

(8) Many places of this Province are famous as well by Name, being naturally fortunate in their situation, as for some other accidental happiness befaln unto them. Hallifax, famous, as well for that Ioha••nes de sacr•• Bost••, Author of the Sphere, was born there, and for the Law it hath against steal∣ing, and for the greatness of the Parish, which reckoneth in it eleven Chappels, whereof two be Parish Chappels, and in them to the number of twelve thousand People.

In former times it was called Horton, and touching the alteration of the name, this pretty story is

related of it; namely, That a Clerk (for so they call him) being far in love with a Maid, and by no means either of long praises or large promises, able to gain like affection at her hands, when he saw his hopes frustrate, and that he was not like to have his purpose of her, turned his love in rage, and cut off the Maids head, which being afterwards hung upon an Ewe-tree, common people counted it as an hallowed Relique till it was rotten: And afterwards (such was the credulity of that time) it main∣tained the opinion of reverence and Religion still: for the People resorted thither on Pilgrimage, and perswaded themselves, that the little Veins that spread out between the Bark and Body of the Ewe trees like fine threds, were the very Hairs of the Maids head. Hereupon it was called by this name Halig∣fax, or Halyfax, that is, Haly Hayre.

Pomfret is famous for the Site, as being seated in a place so pleasant, that it brings forth Liqu••rice and great plenty of Skirtworts, but it is infamous for the murther and bloodshed of Princes: The Ca∣stle whereof was built by Hilde••••rt Laty, a Norman, to whom William the Conqueror gave this Town, after Alrick the Saxon was thrust out of it.

(9) But I will sorbear to be prolix or tedious in the particular memoration of places in a Pr••∣vince so spacious, and only make a compendious relation of York, the second City of England, in Latine called Eboracum and Eburacum; by Ptolomy, Brigantium (the chief City of the Brigants) by Ninius, Caer Ebrauc; by the Britains, Caer Effroc. The British History reports that it took the Name of Ebrau•• that founded it; but some others are of opinion, that Eburacum hath no other derivation than from the River Ous•• running thorow it: It over-masters all the other places of this Country for fairness, and is a singular ornament and safeguard to all the North-parts. A pleasant place, large, and full of magnificence, rich, populous, and not only strengthened with fortifications, but adorned with beautiful buildings, as well private as publick. For the greater dignity thereof, it was made an Episcopal See by Constantius, and a Metropolitane City by a Pall sent unto it from Ho••••rius

Egbert Arch-bishop of York, who flourished about the year seven hundred forty erected in it a most fa∣mous Library. Richard the third repaired the Castle thereof being ruinous, and King Henry the eight appointed a Council in the same, to decide and determine all the Causes and Controversies of the North parts, according to Equity and Conscience: which Council consisteth of a Lord President, cer∣tain Counsellors at the Princes pleasure, a Secretary, and other Under-Officers.

The original of this City cannot be fetcht out but from the Romans, seeing the Britains before the Romans came, had no other Towns than Woods fenched with Trenches and Rampiers, as Caesar and Strabo do testifie. And that it was a Colony of the Romans, appears both by the Authority of Ptolomy and Antonine, and by many ancient Inscriptions that have been found there. In this City the Empe∣ror Severus had his Palace, and here gave up his last breath; which ministers occasion to shew the an∣cient custom of the Romans, in the military manner of their burials.

His body was carried forth here by the Souldiers to the funeral fire, and committed to the flames, honoured with the ••usts and Turnaments both of the Souldiers, and of his own Sons: His ashes be∣stowed in a little golden pot or vessel of the Porphyrat stone, were carried to Rome, and shrined there in the Monument of the Antonines. In this City (as Spartianus maketh mention) was the Temple of the Goddess B••llona; to which Severu•• (being come thither purposing to offer Sacrifice) was erroni∣ously led by a rustical Augur.

Here Fl. Valerius Co••stantius, surnamed Choru•• (an Emperour of excellent vertue and Christian Piety) ended his life, and was Deified as appears by ancient Coins: and his Son Constantine being present at his Fathers death; forthwith proclaimed Emperour; from whence it may be gathered of what great estimation York was in those days, when the Romans Emperours Court was held in it. This City flourished a long time under the English-Saxons Dominion, till the Da••es, like a mighty Storm, thundering from out of the North-East, destroyed it, and distrained it with the blood of many

slaughtered persons, and wan it from Olbright and Ella Kings of No••thumberland, who were both stain in their pursuit of the Danes: which Alcuine in his Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland, seemed to presage before, when he said; What signifieth that raining down of blood in St. Peters Church of York, even in a fair day, and descending in so violent and threatning a manner from the top of the roof? may it not be thought that blood is coming upon the Land from the North parts?

Howbeit Athelstane recovered it from the Dantsh subjection, and quite overthrew the Castle with the which they had fortified it; yet was it not (for all this) so freed from Wars, but that it was sub∣ject to the Times fatally next following. Nevertheless in the Conquerors time, when (after many wo∣ful overthrows and troublesom storms) it had a pleasant calm of ensuing Peace, it rose again of it self, and flourished afresh, having still the helping hand of Nobility and Gentry, to recover the former dig∣nity, and bring it to the perfection it hath. The Citizens senced it round with new Walls, and ma∣ny Towers and Bulwarks, and ordaining good and wholsome Laws for the government of the same: Which at this day are executed at the command of a Lord Mayor, who hath the assistance of twelve Aldermen, many Chamberlains, a Recorder, a Town-Clerk, six Sergeants at Mace, and two Esquires, which are, a Sword-bearer, and the Common Sergeant, who with a great Mace goeth on the left hand of the Sword. The Longitude of this City, according to Mercators account, is ••9 degrees, and 35 scruples: the Latitude 54 degrees and forty scruples.

(10) Many occurents present themselves with sufficient matter of enlargement to this discourse, yet none of more worthy consequence than were those several Battels, fought within the compass of this County; wherein Fortune had her pleasure as well in the proof of her love, as in the pursuit of her ty∣ranny; sometime sending the fruits of sweet peace unto her, and other whiles suffering her to taste the sowreness of War.

At Conisborough (in the Britain Tongue Ca••r-Conan) was a great Battel fought by Hengist, Captain of the English-Saxons, after he had retired himself thither for his safety, his men being fled and scat∣tered, and himself discomfited by Aurelius Ambrosius; yet within few days after, he brought forth his men to Battel against the Britains that pursued him, where the field was bloody both to him and his; for many of his men were cut in pieces, and he himself had his head chopt off, as the British History saith; which the Chronicles of the English-Saxons deny, reporting that he died in peace, being sur∣charged and over-worn with the troublesom toils and travels of War.

Neer unto Kirkstall, Oswie King of Northumberland put P••nda the Mercian to flight: the place wherein the Battel was joyned, the Writers call Winwid-Field, giving it the name by the Victory: And the little Region about it (in times past called by an old name Elmet) was conquered by Eadwin King of Northumberland, the son of Aela, after he had expelled Cereticus a British King, in the year of Christ, 620.

At Casterford (called by Antonine Legiotium and Legetium) the Citizens of York slew many of King Ethelreds Army, and had a great hand against him, in so much as he that before sat in his Throne of Majesty, was on a sudden daunted, and ready to offer submission.

But the most worthy of memory, was that Field fought on Palm Sunday, 1461. in the quarrel of Lancaster and York, where England never saw more puissant Forces both of Gentry and Nobility: for there were in the Field at one time (partakers on both sides) to the number of one hundred thousand fighting men. When the fight bad continued doubtful a great part of the day, the Lancastrians not a∣ble longer to abide the violence of their enemies, turned back and fled amain, and such as took part with York, followed them so hotly in chase, and killed such a number of Nobles and Gentlemen, that thirty thousand Englishmen were that day left dead in the Field.

(11) Let us now loose the point of this Compass, and sail into some other parts of this Province,

to find out matter of other memorable moment. Under Knausbrough there is a Well called Dropping Well, in which the waters spring not out of the veins of the earth, but distill and trickle down from the Rocks that hang over it: It is of this vertue and efficacy, that it turns Wood into Stone: for what Wood soever is put into it, it will be shortly covered over with a stony bark, and be turned into Stone, as hath been often observed.

At Giggleswick also about a mile from Settle (a Market-Town) there are certain small Springs not distant a quaits cast from one another: the middlemost of which doth at every quarter of an hour ebb and flow about the height of a quarter of a yard when it is highest, and at the ebb falleth so low, that it is not an inch deep with water. Of no less worthiness to be remembred is St. Wilfrids Needle, a place very famous in times past for the narrow hole in the close vaulted room under the ground, by which womens honesties were wont to be tried, for such as were chaste pass thorow with much facility; but as many as had plaid false, were miraculously held fals••, and could not creep thorow. Believe if you list.

The credible report of a Lamp found burning (even in our Fathers remembrance, when Abbeys were pulled and suppressed) in the Sepulchre of Constantius, within a certain Vault or little Chappel under the ground, wherein he was supposed to have been buried, might beget much wonde•• and admiration, but that Lazius confirmeth, that in ancient times they had custom to preserve light in Sepul••hres, by an artificial resolving of Gold into a liquid and fatty substance, which should continue burning a long time, and for many ages together.

(12) This York-shire Picture I will draw to no more length, lest I be condemned with the Sophister, for insisting in the praise of Hercules, when no man opposed himself in his discommendation. This Country of it self is so beautiful in her own natural colours, (that without much help) she presents de∣lightful varieties both to the sight and other senses.

[illustration] map of the bishoprick of Durham

The Bishipprick oF DURHAM

The BISHOPRICK of DURHAM.

CHAPTER XXXIX.

THe Bishoprick of Durham, containeth those parts and Town-ships that lie betwixt the Ri∣ver Tees and Derwent, and all along the German Seas. It is neighboured on the North with Northumberland, and their Iurisdictions parted by the River Derwent: her West is touched by Cumberland, Westmorland, and from Stain-More divided by the River Tees, and by the same water on her South, from York-shire even unto the Sea; and the East is altogether coasted by the German-Seas.

(2) The form thereof is triangular, and sides not much differing; for from her South-East, unto the West-point, are about thirty miles: from thence to her North-east and Tyne-mouth, are likewise as many, and her base along the Sea shore are twenty-three miles; the whole in circumference, about one hundred and three miles.

(3) The Air is sharp and very piercing, and would be more, were it not that the vapours from the German-Seas did help much to dissolve her Ice and Snow; and the store of Coals therein growing and gotten, do warm the body, and keep back the cold; which fewel besides their own use, doth yield great commodities unto this Province▪ by trade thereof into other parts.

(4) For Soil, it consisteth much alike of Pastures, Arable, and barren grounds; the East is the richest and most champion, the South more moorish, but well inhabited; her West all rocky, with∣out either Grass or Grain, notwithstanding recompenceth her possess••rs with as great gain, both in rearing up Cattel, and bringing forth Coal, whereof all this County is plentifully stored, and groweth so near to the upper face of the earth, that in the trod-ways the Cart-wheels do turn

up the same. Some hold their substance to be a clammy kind of clay hardned with heat abounding in the earth, and so becoming concocted, is nothing else but Bitumen; for proof whereof, these Coals have both the like smell and operation of Bitumen: for being sprinkled with water, they burn more ve∣hemently, bu•• with oyl are quite extinguished and put out.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants known unto Ptolomy, were the Brigantes, of whom we have spoken in the General of York-shire, they being subdued by the Romans; after whom the Saxons made it a part of their Northumberland Kingdom; at first a Province belonging to the Deirians, and enjoyed by Ella their first King; afterwards invaded by the Danes, and lastly possessed by the Normans: whose site being so near unto Scotland, hath many times felt their fury, and hath been as a Buckler betwixt them and the English; for which cause the Inhabitants have certain freedoms, and are not charged with service as other Counties are, so that this with Westmorland, Cumberland, and Northumberland, are not divided into hundreds in those Parliament Rolls whence I had the rest; which want I must leave for others to supply.

(6) Over this County, the Bishops thereof have had the Royalties of Princes; and the Inhabi∣tants have pleaded priviledge not to pass in service of War over the River of Tees or Tyne; whose charge (as they have alledged) was to keep and defend the Corps of S. Cuthbert their great adored Saint, and therefore they termed themselves, The holy work folks. And the repute of this Cuthbert and his supposed defence against the Scots was such, that our English Kings in great devotion have gone in Pilgrimage to visite his Tomb, and have given many large possessions to his Church: such were King Egfred, Aelfred, and Guthrun the Dane, Edward and Athelstane Monarch of England, and zealous Canu••e, the greatest of all, who came thither bare-footed, and at Cuthberts Tomb both augmented and confirmed their Liberties. This Saint then, of nothing made Durham become great, and William the Conquerour, of a Bishoprick made it a County Palatine: at that time William Cereceph,

Bishop of the Diocess, pulled down the old Church which Aldwin had built, and with sumptuous cost laid the foundation of a new, wherein S. Cuthberts Shrine in the vacancy of the Bishops, was the Keep••∣er of the Castle-Keys.

In the West of this Church, and place called Gallile, the Marble-Tomb of venerable Beda re∣maineth, who was born at Iarr•• in this County, and became a Monk at Weremouth, whose pain∣ful industrie and light of learning in those times of darkness are wonderful, as the Volums which he wrote do well declare: And had the idle Monks of England imployed their time after his exam∣ple, their Founders expectations had not been frustrate, nor those Foundations so easily overturn∣ed. But the revenge of sin ever following the actions of sins, dissolved first the largeness of this Counties liberties, under the Raign of King Edward the First, and since hath shaken to pieces those places herein erected under the Raign of King Henry ••he Eight: such were Durham, Sherborne, Stayn∣drop, Iarro, Weremouth, and Egleton; all which felt the reward of their idleness, and wrath of him that is jealous of his own honour.

(7) Things of rare note observed in this Shire, are three pits of a wonderful depth, commonly cal∣led the Hell-Kettles, which are adjoyning neer unto Darlington, whose waters are somewhat warm. These are thought to come of an Earth-quake, which happened in the year of Grace 1179, whereof the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of Ti••-mouth maketh mention, whose record is this: On Christmass-day, at Oxenhall in the Territory of Darlington, within the Bishoprick of Durham, the ground heaved up aloft, like unto an high Tower, and so continued all that day, as it were unmoveable, until the evening; and then fell with so hor∣rible a noise, that it made all the neighbour dwellers sore afraid: and the earth swallowed it up, and made in the same place a deep pit, which is there to be seen for a testimony unto this day.

(8) Of no less admiration are certain Stones lying within the River Were, at Butterbee 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Durham; from whose sides at the Ebb and low Water in the Summer, issueth a certain salt 〈◊〉〈◊〉

water, which with the Sun waxeth white, and growing into a thick substance, becometh a necessary Salt to the use of the by-dwellers.

(9) And places of elder times had in account by the Romans, were Benovium, now Bi••chester, and Condercum, Chester in the street, where their monies have been digged up, and at Condercum so much, that Egelrick Bishop of Durham was therewith made exceeding rich.

This County hath been strengthened with seven strong Castles, is yet traded with six Market-Towns, and Gods divine honour in one hundred and eighteen Parish-Churches celebrated.

[illustration] map of Westmoreland and Cumberland

Westmorland and Comberlād

VVESTMORLAND.

CHAPTER XL.

WESTMORLAND, by some late Latine Writers is called Westmaria, and Westmor∣landia, by some later Westmoria, and in our English Tongue Westmorland. It came to be thus named in our language by the situation, which in every part is so plen∣teously full of Moors and high Hills, reaching one to another, that Westmor∣land (with us) is nothing else but a Western moorish Country. Having on the and North-side Cumberland, on the South part Lanca-shire, on the East-side York-shire, and the Bishop∣rick of Durham.

(2) The length thereof extended from Burton in her South, to Kirkland in her North part is 30 miles: the broadest part from East to West, is from the River Eden to Dunbal raise stones, containing 24 miles, the whole circumference about 112 miles.

(3) The form thereof is somewhat long and narrow: the Air sharp and piercing, purging it self from the trouble of gross foggy mists, and vapours, by reason of which the people of this Province are not acquainted with strange diseases or imperfections of body, but live long, and are healthful, and at••ain to the number of many years.

(4) The Soil for the most part of it is but barren, and can hardly be brought to any fruitfulness, by the industry and painful labour of the husbandman, being so full of infertile places, which the Norteern Englishme•• call Moors; yet the more Southerly part is not reported to be so sterile, but more fruitful in the Vallies, though contained in a narrow room, between the River Lone, and Winander-mear, and it is all termed by one name. The Barony of K••••dale or Ca••dale, that is, the dale by Can, taking the name of the River Can, that runs through it.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this County were the Brigantes, mentioned in the several Counties of York▪ Lancaster and Cumberland.

(6) It is not commended either for plenty of Corn or Cattel, being neither stored with Arable Grounds to bring forth the one, nor pasturage to breed up the other: the principle profit that the Peo∣ple of this Province raise unto themselves, is by Cloathing.

(7) The chiefest place of which is Kandale or Kendale, called also Kirkeby Kendale, standing on the Bank of the River Can. This Town is of great Trade and resort, and for the diligent and indu∣strious practice of making Cloth so excels the rest, that in regard thereof it carrieth a super-emi∣nent name above them, and hath great vent and Traffique for her Woollen-cloaths through all the parts of England. It challengeth not much glory for Antiquity; only that it accounteth it a great credit, that it hath dignified three Earls with the title thereof, as Iohn Duke of Bedford, whom Henry the Fifth (being his brother) advanced to that honour, Iohn Duke of Somerset, and Iohn de Foix, whom King Henry the Sixth preferred to that dignity for his honourable and trusty services done in the French Wars. It is a place of very civil and orderly government, the which is managed by an Alder∣man, chosen every year out of his twelve Brethren, who are all distinguished and notified from the rest by the wearing of purple Garments. The Alderman and his Senior Brother are always Iustices of Peace and Quorum. There are in it a Town Clerk, a Recorder, two Sergeants at Mace, and two Chamberlains. By Mathematical observation the site of this Town is in the degree of Longitude 17, 30 scruples from the first West-point, and the Pole elevated in Latitude to the degree 55, and 15 minutes.

(8) Places of memorable note for Antiquity are Vertera, mentioned by Antonine the Empe∣rour; and Aballaba, which we contractly call Apelby. In the one, the Northern English conspired against William the Conquerour in the beginning of the Norman Government. In the other, the

Aurelian Maures kept a Station in the time of the Romans, and their high-street is yet apparently to be seen by the ridges thereof, which lead by Apelby to a place called Brovonacum, mentioned in the Book of Provincial notices. The antique pieces of Roman Coin otherwhiles digged up hereabouts, and some Inscriptions not long ••ince found, shew of what continuance they have been: although Time, which devoureth all things, hath so fed upon their carkasses many Ages together, as it hath almost consumed both Houses and Inhabitants, for Apelby now is bare both of People and Building; and were it not for the antiquity that makes it the more estimable, in whose Castle the Assises are commonly kept, it would be little better in account than a Village. Verterae is long since decayed, and the name of it changed into Burgh: for it is commonly named Burgh under Stanemore. In which, it is said, a Roman Captain made his abode with a Band of Directores, in the declining Age of the Roman Em∣pire- These two places William of Newborough calleth Princely Holds, and writeth, that William King of Scots a little before he himself was taken Prisoner at Alnewicke, surprized them on a sudden, but King Iohn recovered them after, and liberally bestowed them upon Robert Vipont, for his many wor∣th•• services.

(9) There is mention made but of one Religious House that hath been in all this Country, and that was a little Monastery seated near unto the River Loder, built by Thomas the son of Gospatricke, the Son of Orms: where there is a Fountain or Spring that Ebbs and Flows many times a day, and it is thought that some notable Act of Atchievement hath been performed there, for that there be huge Stones in form of Pyramides, some nine foot high, and fourteen foot thick, ranged for a mile in length directly in a row, and equally distant, which might seem to have been there purposely pitched in me∣mory thereof: but what that Act was it is not now known, but quite worn out of remembrance by Times injury.

(10) Other matters worthy of observation are only these: That at Ambogla••••, now called Am∣ble-side,

near the upper-corner of Winander-Mear, there appears at this day the ruins of an ancient City, which by the British-Bricks, by Roman-Money oftentimes found there, by High-waies paved leading unto it, and other likelihoods, seems to have beed a work of the Romans: The Fortress there∣of so long fenced with a Ditch and Rampire, that it took up in length one hundred thirty two Ells, and in breadth eight. There are also near Kendale in the River Can, two Catadupae or Waterfalls, where the Waters descend with such a forcible downfal, that it compels a mighty noise to be heard, which the neighbour Inhabitants make such use of, as they stand them in as good stead as Prognosti∣cations: for when that which standeth North from them soundeth more clear, and with a louder ec∣cho in their ears, they certainly look for fair weather to follow▪ But when that on the South doth the like, they expect foggy mists and showers of rain.

(11) This Province is traded with four Market-Towns, fortified with the strength of seven Castles, and hath 26 Parishes in it for the celebration of Divine Service.

CUMBERLAND.

CHAPTER XLI.

CUMBERLAND, the furthest North-West Province in this Realm of England, confronteth upon the South of Scotland, and is divided from that Kingdom partly by the River Kir∣sop, then crossing Eske, by a tract thorow Solom••-Moss, until it come to the Solwaye-Frith, by Ptolomy called the Itune-Bay. The North-West part is neighboured by Nor∣thumberland, more East-ward with Westmerland, the South with Lancashire, and the West is wholly washed with the Irish-Seas.

(2) The form whereof is long and narrow, pointing wedg-like into the South, which part is altoge∣ther pestred with copped hills, and therefore hath the name of Cop-land. The middle is more level, and better inhabited, yielding sufficient for the sustenance of man: but the North is wild and solitary, cumbred with Hills, as Copland is.

(3) The Air is piercing, and of a sharp temperature, and would be more biting, were it not that those high Hills break off the Northern storms, and cold falling Snows.

(4) Notwithstanding, rich is this Province, and with great varieties thereof is replenished: the Hills, though rough, yet smile upon their beholders, spread with Sheep and Cattel, the Vallies sto∣red with Grass and Corn sufficient: the Sea affordeth great store of Fish, the Land overspread with variety of Fowls, and the Rivers feed a kind of Muskle that bringeth forth Pearl, where in the mouth of the Irt, as they lie gaping and sucking in Dew, the Country people gather, and sell to the Lapidaries to their own little, and the buyers great gain. But the Mines Royal of Copper, whereof this Country yieldeth much, is for use, the richest of all: the place is at Keswick and Newland, where

likewise the Black-Lead is gotten, whose plenty maketh it of no great esteem; otherwise a commodity that could hardly be missed.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants known to the Romans, were the Brigantes, whom Ptolomy disper∣seth into Westmorland, Richmond, Durham, York-shire, and Lancashire. But when the Saxons had overborn the Britains, and forced them out of the best, to seek their resting among the vast Moun∣tains, these by them were entred into, where they held play with their enemies, maugre their force, and from them, as Marianus doth witness, the Land was called Cumber, of those Kumbri the Bri∣tains. But when the State of the Saxons was sore shaken by the Danes, this Cumberland was accoun∣ted a Kingdom of it self; for so the Flower-gatherer of Westminster recordeth: King Edmund (saith he) with the help of Leoline Prince of South-Wales wasted all Cumberland, and having put out the eyes of the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 so••s of Dunmail King of that Province, granted that Kingdom unto Malcolm King of Scots, whereof their eldest sons became Prefects. This Province, King Stephen, to purch••se favour with the Scots, what time he stood in most need of aid, confirmed by gift under their Crown; which Henry the Second notwithstanding made claim unto and got, as Nubrigensis writeth, and laid it again in the Marches of England: since when, many bickerings betwixt these Nations herein have hapned, but none so bitter against the Scottish-side, as was that at Salome Moss, where their Nobility disdaining their General Oliver Sinclere, gave over the Battel, and yielded themselves to the English: which dishonour pierced so deeply into to the heart of King Iames the fifth, that for grief thereof he shortly after died.

(6) Many memorable Antiquities remain and have been found in this County: for it being the Confines of the Romans Possessions, was continually secured by their Garrisons, where remains at this day part of that admirable Wall built by Severus: also another Fortification from 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to El••••-Mo••th, upon the Sea-shore toward Ireland, by Stillic•• raised, when under 〈◊〉〈◊〉 he suppres∣sed

the rage of the Picts and Irish, and freed the Seas of the Saxon Pirates. Upon Hard-knot hill, Moresby, Old-Carleil, Pap-Castle along the Wall, and in many other places, their ruines remain, with Altars, and I••scriptions of their Captains and Colonies, whereof many have been found, and more as yet lie hid.

(7) The chiefest City in this Shire is Careile, pleasantly seated betwixt the Rivers Eden, Petterel••, and Caud, by the Romans called Luguvallum; by Beda, Luell; by Ptolomy, Leucopibia; by Ninius, Caer-Lualid; and by us Carlile. This City flourishing under the Romans, at their departure, by the furious outrages of the Scots and Picts was dejected, yet in the daies of Egfrid King of Northumberland, was walled about: but again defaced by the over-running Danes, lay buried in her own ashes the space of two hundred years: upon whose ruines at length Rufus set his compassionate eye, and built there the Castle, planting a Colony of Flemings to secure the Coasts from the Scots, but upon better advise∣ment removed them into Wales. After him, Henry his Brother and Successor ordained this City for an Episcopal See; whose site is placed in the degree of Longitude from the first West part 17 and 2 scruples, and the Pole thence elevated from the degree of Latitude 55 and 56 scruples.

(8) West from hence, at Burgh upon the Sand, was the fatal end of our famous Monarch King Edward the First, who there leaving his Wars unfinished against Scotland, left his troubles, and soon missed life, to his untimely and soon lamented death.

(9) And at Salkelds upon the River Eden, a Monument of seventy seven Stones, each of them ten foot high above ground, and one of them at the entrance fifteen, as a Trophy of Victory was erected. These are by the By-dwellers called Long-Meg and her Daughters.

(10) This Country, as it stood in the Fronts of Assaults, so was it strengthened with twenty-five Castles, and preserved with the Prayers (as then was thought) of the V••taries in the Houses erected at Carlil••, L••ncroft, Wether all, Holme, Daker, and Saint Bees. These with others were dissolved by

King Henry the Eight, and their revenues shadowed under his Crown: but the Province being freed from the charge of Subsidie, is not therefore divided into Hundreds in the Parliament Roles, whence we have taken the divisions of the rest: only this is observed, that therein are seated nine Market-Towns, fifty eight Parish-Churches, besides many other Chappels of Ease.

[illustration] map of Northumberland

NORTHUMBER∣LAND

NORTHUMBERLAND.

CHAPTER XLII.

THE County of Northumberla••d, hath on the South the Bishoprick of Durham, being shut in with the River Derwent, and with Tyne; the North is confined upon Scotland, the West upon part of Scotland and part of Cumberland; the East-side lyeth altogether upon the Sea, called Mare Germanicum:

(2) The form thereof is Triangular, and differs not much in the sidings; for from her South-East unto the South-West point are near unto 40 miles; from thence to her North-point are sixty miles, and her base along the Sea-shore 45 miles: The whole in circumference is about one hundred forty five miles.

(3) The Air must needs be subtile and piercing, for that the Northernly parts are most exposed to extremity of weathers, as great winds, hard fro••ts, and long lying of snows, &c. Yet would it be far more sharp than it is, were not the German-S••as a ready means to further the dissolution of her Ice and Snow, and the plenty of Coals there gotten, a great help to comfort the Body with marmth, and defend it from the bitter coldness.

(4) The soil cannot be rich, having neither fertility of ground for Corn or Cattel, the most part of it being rough, and in every place hard to be man••red, save only towards the Sea and the River Tyne, where, by the great diligence and industrious pains of good husbandry, that part is become very fruitful.

(5) The ancient Inhabitants of this Country, mentioned by Ptolomy, were called OTTALINI, OTTADENI, and OTTADINI, which by an ea••ie alteration (as M. C••mbden saith, if it

had been called OTTATINI, signifying, about the River Tyne, or on the further side of Ty••e, (for so this People were planted) there would have been much consonance both with the name of the Inhabi∣tants, and the Position and Site of the Province.

(6) The chiefest commodity that enricheth this County, are those Stones Linthancrates, which we call Sea-coals, whereof there is such plenty and abundance digged up, as they do not only return a great gain to the Inhabitants, but procure also much pleasure and profit to others.

(7) No place of ••his Province vents forth so many of these Sea-coals into other Regions, as New-Castle doth, being the very Eye of all the Towns in this County: for it doth not only minister relief (by such provision) to all other parts of England, but doth also furnish the wants of forrain Countries with her plenty. By means of this and the intercouse of Traffique which it hath, the place is grown exceeding rich and populous. Before the Conquest it was called Monk-chester: having been (as it seemed) in the possession of ••onks: and Chester being added, which signifies a Bulwark or place of defence, and shews that in ancient time it had been a place of Fortification.

(8) After the Conquest it got the name of Newcastle, by the New Castle which Robert the Son of William the Conquerour built there, out of the ground. What it was called in old time is not known, yet some are of opinion, that it may be thought to have been Gatrosentum, for that Gates∣••ead, the suburb (as it were) of the same, expresseth in their own proper signification that British name, Gatrosentum. It is now most ennobled both by the Haven (which Tyne maketh) of that not a∣ble depth, that it beareth very tall Ships, and is able to defend them against Storms and Tempests. As also by many favours and honours wherewith it hath been dignified by Princes: for Richard the Second granted that a Sword should be carried before the Mayor, and Henry the Sixt made it a Coun∣ty consisting of a Corporation within it self. It is adorned with four Churches, and fortified with strong Walls that have eight gates. It is distant from the first West line 21 degrees and 30 minutes

and from the Equinoctial-line towards the North-Pole thirty four degrees and fif••y-seven mi∣nutes.

(9) The utmost Town in England, and the strongest Hold in all Britain, is Barwick. From whence it had the name is not certainly made known. Some fetch it from Berengarius, a Duke (never read of:) Howsoever, this is better to be said than trusted: and whencesoever it hath the name, it is seated between two mighty Kingdoms, shooting far into the Sea, with the which and the River Tweed, it is almost encompassed: and whensoever any discord fell between the two Nations, this place was the first thing they took care of. It hath endured the brunts of divers inroads and in∣cursions, and been oftentimes possessed and repossessed of the S••ots and English: But since it was reduced under the command of Edward the Fourth, our Kings have from time to time so strength∣ned it with new Works and Fortifications, as they cut off all hopes of winning it. The Gover∣nour of this Town is also Warden of the East-Marches against Scotland. The Longitude of it ac∣cording to Mathematical observation, is 21 degrees and 43 minutes: the Latitude 55 degrees and 48 minutes.

(10) The Inhabitants of this Country are a warlike People, and excellent Horsemen, and ar•• made fierce and hard by the several encounters of the Scots, and not much unlike them in neither, betwixt whom in this County, many Battels have been fought, and the successes oftentimes waved through very doubtfully, the Victory sometimes falling to the Scots, sometimes to the English. At Otterburne was one, in which three or four times it stood doubtfully indifferent, till in the end the Scots got the upperhand of the English: Howbeit, their glory was not made so illustrious by this Conquest, but that it was as much darkned by the foil they received at Anwicke, where William. King of Scots was taken and presented Prisoner to Henry the Second. As also by that Battel at Brum∣ridge, Where King Athelstan fought a pitcht field against Anlafe the Dan••, Constantine King of 〈◊〉〈◊〉,

and E••genius King of Cumberland, and that with such fortuna••e success, as it hath left matter suffi∣cient to fill the pens of Historians. Flodden-Field also, memorable in the death of Iames the fourth, King of Scots, who was there slain, and his Army overthrown in a sharp Fight, as he displayed his Banner (in great hope) against England, when King Henry the Eight lay at the siege of Turnay in France.

(11) Other Battels in this County have been, as that at Hexam (called by Beda, Hangust••ld) wherein Iohn Nevil, Marquess M••ntacute, encountred the Leaders of the Lancastrian Faction with much courage, and with greater success, put them to flight, for which he was made Earl of Nor∣thumberland by Edward the Fourth. As also that of Dilston, (by Beda called Devilshurne) where Oswald having the Faith of Christ for his Defence and Armour, slew Cedwall the Britain in a set Battel himself straightwaies becoming a professed Christian, and causing his people to be instructed in Chri∣stain Religion.

(12) Many memorable Antiquities are found in this Country along the Wall, and in other places: As pieces of Coin, Inscriptions, broken and unperfect Altars, &c. the ruines of the Wall yet to be seen: but none that deserves more to be remembred than Wall-Town (by Beda called Ad Murum) for that Segebert King of the East-Saxons was in it baptized in the Christian Faith by the hands of Paulinus: and Halyston, where the said Paulinus is said to have baptized many thousands into the Faith of Christ in the Primitive Church of the English Nation.

(13) Busy-gap is a place infamous for robbing and thieving, and is therefore rather remembred as a cautionary note for such as have cause to travel that way, than for any proper matter of worth it hath, that merits place with other parts of this Province.

Other matters of observation are only these, that North-Tyne (running thorow the Wall) waters two Dales, which breed notable light-horse-men, and both of them have their hills•• (hard by)

••o boggy, and standing with water on the top, that no horse-men are able to ride through them, and yet (which is wonderful) there be many great heaps of Stones (called Laws) which the neighbouring people are verily perswaded were cast up and laid together in old time, in remembrance of some that were slain there. There is also a martial kind of Men which lie out, up and down in little Cottages (called by them Sheals and Shealings) from April to August, in scattering fashion, summering (as they term it) their Cattel, and these are such a sort of people as were the ancient Nom••d••s•• The last, not least, matter of note is this, that the Inhabitants of Morpeth set their own Town on fire in the year of Christ 1215, in the spight they bare to King Iohn, for that he and his Rutars over-ran these Countries.

This County hath five Market-Towns in it for her Trade of Buying and Selling, 26 Castles for her strength and fortification, and 460 Parish-Churches for Divine Service.

[illustration] map of the Isle of Man

THE ISLE OF MAN

MAN-ISLAND.

CHAPTER XLIII.

THe Isle of Man is termed by Ptolomy, Moneda; by Pliny, Menabia; by Or••sius, M••navia: by Beda, Menavia secunda, and by Gildas; Eubonia, and Menaw. The Britains name it Menow; the Inhabitants Maninge; and we Englishmen; The Isle of Man. It bound∣eth Northward upon Scotland, Southward upon the Isle of Auglesey, Eastward upon part of Lanca-shire, and Westward upon the Coast of Ireland.

(2) The form is long and narrow, for from Cranston to the Mull-hills, where it is longest, it only stretcheth it self to twenty nine miles; but from the widest part, which is from Peele-Castle to Douglas-point, are scarce nine; the whole compass about, is fourscore and two miles▪

(3) The Air is cold and sharp, being bordering upon the Septentrion••l parts, and for her shelter having but a wall of water. They have few Woods, only they light sometimes upon subterranean trees buried under the ground, by digging up the earth for a clammy kind of Turff, which they use for fuell.

(4) The Soil is reasonable fruitful both for Cattel, Fish, and Corn; yet it rather commendeth the pains of the People than the goodness of the ground; for by the Industry of the Inhabitants it yieldeth ••uffciently of every thing for it self, and sendeth good store into other Countries. It hath Fields (by good manuring) plenteous of Barley and Wheat, but especially of Oats; and from hence it comes that the People eat most of all Oaten-bread. It bears abundance of Hemp and Flax, and is full of mighty Flocks of Sheep and other Cattel: yet are they smaller in body than those we have in England, and are much like to the Cattel in Ireland that are neighbouring upon it.

(5) This Commodity makes this I••land more happy than we are here: for the People are there free from unnecessary commencements of Suits, from long and dilatory Pleas, and from frivolous feeing of Lawyers. No Iudg or Clerks of the Cou••t take there any penny for drawing Instruments, or ma∣k••ng of Processes. All Controversies are there determined by certain Iudges, without writings or o∣ther charges, and them they all Deemsters, and chuse forth among themselves. If any complaint be made to the Magistrate for wrong, either done or suffered, he presently taketh up a Stone, and fixeth his mark upon it, and so delivereth it unto the Party Plaintiff, by vertue of which he both calls his Ad∣versary to appearance, and to produce his Witnesses. If the Case fall out to be more litigious, and of greater consequence than can easily be ended, it is then referred to twelve Men, whom they term, The Keys of the Island. Another happiness enricheth this Island, namely, the Security and Government thereof, as being defended from neighbour Enemies by Souldiers that are p••est and ready; for on the South side-of the Isle stands Bala-Curi (the Bishops chief place of residence) and the Pyl••, and a Block∣house sta••ding in a little Island, where there is a continual Garrison of Souldiers. And it is so well managed for matter of rule and civil Discipline, that every man there possesseth his own in peace and safety. No man lives in dread or danger of what he hath. Men are not there inclined to Rob∣bing or Thieving, or Licentious living.

(6) The Inhabitants of this Island are for the most part religious, and loving to their Pastors, to whom they do much reverence and respect, frequenting daily to Divine Service, without division in the Church, or innovation in the Commonwealth. The wealthier sort, and such as hold the fairest pos∣sessions, do imitate the people of Laca-shire, both in their honest carriage and good house-keeping. Howbeit, the common sort of People both in their language and manners, come nighest unto the Irish, although they somewhat relish and favour of the qualities of the Norw••gians.

(7) Things not worthy to be buried in the grave of oblivion are, that this Island in the midst there∣of riseth up with hills, standing very thick; amongst which the highest is called Sceafull, from whence upon a clear and fair day, a man may easily see three Kingdoms at once; that is, Scotland, and Ire∣land. This Isle prohibits the customary manner of begging from dore to dore, detesting the disorders, as well Civil as Ecclesiastical of Neighbour Nations. And the last, not least, that deserves to be com∣mitted to memory, is, that the women of this Country, wheresoever they go out of their dores, gird themselves about with the Winding-sheet that they purpose to be buried in, to shew themselves mind∣ful of their mortality: and such of them as are at any time condemned to die, are sowed within a Sack, and flung from a Rock into the Sea.

(8) The whole Isle is divided into two parts, South and North, whereof the one resembleth the Scottish in Speech, the other the Irish. It is defended by two Castles, and hath seventeen Parishes, five Market-Towns, and many Villages.

A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN.

CHAPTER XLIV.

IT is here very pertinent to the purpose, to insert a small History of this Island, that the atchievements heretofore had, may not be utterly buried, although they are waxen very old, and almost torn from re∣membrance by the teeth of ••ime. I is confessed by all, that the Britains held this Island, as they did all Britain. But when the Nations from the North overflowed these South parts, like violent tempests. it became sub∣ject to the the Scots. Afterwards, the Norwegians who did most hurt from the Northern Sea by their manifold robberies, made this Island and the Hebrides to be their haunt, and erected Lords and pe••••y Kings in the same, as is expressed in this Chronicle, written (as is reported) by the Monks of the Abbey of Russin.

A Chronicle of the Kings of MAN.

ANno Dom. 1065 Edward, of blessed memory, King of England, departed this life, and Harald the Son of Godwin succeeded him in the Kingdom: against whom Harold Harfager (King of Norway) came into the Field, and fought a Battel at Stainford∣bridge: but the English obtaining the Victory put them all to flight. Out of which chase Godred, sirnamed Crovan, the Son of Harald the black of Iseland, came unto God∣red the Son of Syrric, who raigned then in Man, and honourably received him.

(2) The same year William the Bastard conquered England, and Godred the Son of Syrric died, his Son Fingal succeeding him.

(3) An. 1066. Godred Crovan assembled a great Fleet, and came to Ma••, and fought with the people of the Land, but received the worst, and was overcome.

The second time renewing his Forces and his Fleet, he sailed into Man, and joyned Battel with the Manksmen but was vanquished as before, and driven out of the Field. Howbeit, what he could not at first bring to pass with power in those two several onsets, he afterward effected by policy. For the third time gathering a great multitude together, he arrived by night in the haven called Ramsey, and hid three hundred men in a Wood, which stood upon the hanging hollow brow of an Hill called Scea∣full. The Sun being risen, the Manksmen put their People in order of Battel, and with a violent charge encountred with Godred. The fight was hot for a time, and stood in a doubtful suspence till those three hundred Men starting out of the Ambush behind their backs, began to foil the Manksmen, put them to the worst, and forced them to flie. Who seeing themselves thus discomfited, and finding no place of refuge le••t them to escape, with pitiful lamentation submitted themselves unto Godred, and besought him not to put the Sword such poor remainder of them as was left alive. Godred having compassion on their calamities, (for he had been pursed for a time and brought up among them) sound∣ed a Retreat, and prohibited his Host any longer pursuit. He being thus possessed of the Isle of Man, died in the Island that is called Isle, when he had raigned sixteen years. he left behind him three sons Lagman, Harald, and Olave.

(4) Lagman the eldest, taking upon him the Kingdom, raigned seven year. His brother Harald re∣belled against him a great while; but at length was taken Prisoner by Lagman, who caused his mem∣bers of generation to be cut off, and his eyes to be put out of his head: which curelty this Lagman af∣terwards repenting, gave over the Kingdom of his own accord, and wearing the Badge of the Lords Cross, took a journey to Ierusalem, in which he died.

(5) An. 1075. All the Lords and Nobles of the Islands hearing of the death of Lagman, dispatched

Ambassadors to Murccard O••brien, King of Irela••d, and requested that he would send some worthy and industrious man of the Blood-Royal to be their King, till Olave, the son of Godred came to full age. The King yielding to their request, sent one Dopnald the son of Tade, and charged him to govern the Kingdom (which by right belonged to another) with lenity and gentleness. But after he was come to the Crown, forgetting or not weighing the charge that his Lord and Master had given him, swayed his place with great Tyranny, committing many outrages and cruelties, and so raigned three years: till all the Princes of the Islands agreeing together, rose up against him, and made him flie into Ire∣land.

(6) An. Dom. 1111. Olave the son of Godred Craven aforesaid, began his Raign, and raigned for∣ty years a peaceable Prince. He took to wife Affrica, the daughter of Fergus of Galway, of whom he begat Godred. By his Concubines he had Raignald, Lagman, and Harald, besides many daugh∣ters, whereof one was married to Summerled, Prince of Herergaidel, who caused the ruine of the Kings of the Islands. On her he begat four sons, Dulgal, Raignald, Engus and Olave.

(7) An. Dom. 1144. Godred the son of Olave, was created King of Man, and raigned thirty years. In the third year of his Raign the People of Dublin sent for him, and made him their King. Which Murecard King of Ireland maligning, raised War, and sent Osibeley his half brother by the Mothers side with 3000 Men at Arms to Dublin, who by Godred and the Dublinians was slain, and the rest all put to flight, These Atchievements made, Godred returned to Man, and began to use Tyranny, turning the Noblemen out of their Inheritances. Whereupon one called Th••rsin (Otters son) being mightier than the rest, came to Summerled, and made Dulgal (Summerleds son) King of the Islands: whereof Godred having intelligence, prepared a Navy of 80 Ships to meet Sum∣merled. And in the year 1156 there was a Battle fought at Sea on Twelfth day at night, and many slain on both sides. But the next day they grew to a pacification, and divided the Kingdom

of the Islands among themselves. This was the cause of the overthrow of the Kingdom of the Isles.

(8) An. 1158. Summerled came to Man, with a Fleet of fifty three Sail, put Godred to flight, and wasted the Island. Godred upon this crossed over to Norway for aid against Summerled. But Summer∣led in the mean time arriving at Rhinfrin, and having gathered together a Fleet of 160 Ships, coveting to subdue all Scotland, by the just Iudgment of God, was vanquished by a few, and both himself and his son slain, with an infinite number of people.

(9) The fourth day after, Raignald began to raign, but Godred coming upon him out of Norway with a great number of Armed Men, took his Brother Raignald, and bereft him both of his Eyes and Genital Members. On the fourth Ides of November, An. Dom. 1187. Godred King of the Islands died, and his body was translated to the Isle of Ely. He left behind him three sons, Raignald, Olave, and Tvar. He ordained in his life time that Olave should succeed him, because he only was born legi∣timate. But the people of Man seeing him to be scarce ten years old, sent for Raignald, and made him their King. This caused great division, and many turbulent attempts between the two Brethren for the space of thirty eight years; which had no end, till at a place called Tingualla there was a Bat∣tel struck between them, wherein Olave had the Victory, and Raignald was slain. The Monks of Russin translated his Body unto the Abbey of S. Mary de Fournes, and there interred it in a place which himself had chosen for that purpose.

(10) An. 1230. Olave and Godred Don (who was Raignalds son) with the Norwegiaus came to Man, and divided the Kingdom among themselves. Olave held Man, and Godred being gone unto the Islands, was slain in the Isle Lodaus. So Olave obtained the Kingdom of the Isles. He died the twelfth Calends of Iune, Anno 1237. in Saint Patricks-Islands, and was buried in the Abbey of Russin.

(11) Harold his Son succeeded him, being fourteen years of Age, and raigned 12 years. In the year 1239 he went unto the King of Norway, who after two years confirmed unto him, his Heirs and Successors, under his Seal, all the Islands which his Predecessors had possessed.

(12) An. 1242. Harald returned out of Norway, and being by the Inhabitants honourably re∣ceived, had peace with the Kings of England and of Scotland. The same year he was sent for by the King of Norway, and married his Daughter. In the year 1249 as he returned homeward with his Wife, he was drowned in a Tempest neer unto the Coasts of Radland.

(13) An. Dom. 1249. Raignald the Son of Olave, and brother to Harold, began his raign and on the thirtieth day thereof was slain by one Tvar a Knight, in a Meadow neer unto the holy Trinity-Church, and lieth buried in the Church of S. Mary of Russin.

(14) In the year 1252. Magnus the son of Olave, came to Man, and was made King. The next year following he went to the King of Norway, and stayed there a year.

(15) In the year 1265. Magnus (Olaves son) King of Man, and of the Islands, departed this life, at the Castle of Russin, and was buried in the Church of S. Mary of Russin.

(16) In the year 1266 the Kingdom of the Islands was translated, by reason of Alexander King of Scots, who had gotten into his hands the Western Islands, and brought the Isle of Man under his do∣minion, as one of that number.

(17) An. 1340. William Montacute Earl of Salisbury wrested it from the Scottish by strong hand and force of Arms: and in year the 1393 (as Thomas Walsingham saith) he sold Man and the Crown thereof unto William Scroope for a great summe of money. But he being beheaded for high Treason, and his Goods confiscate; it came into the hands of Henry the Fourth King of England, who granted this Island unto Henry Piercy Earl of Northumberland. But Henry Piercy entring into

open Rebellion the fifth year following, the King sent Sir Iohn Stanley and William Stanley to seize the Isle and Castle of Man, the inheritance whereof he granted afterwards to Sir Iohn Stanley and his Heirs by Letters Patents, ••with the Patronage of the Bishoprick, &c. So that his Heirs and Successors, who were honoured with the Title of Earls of Darby, were commonly called Kings of Man.

[illustration] map of Lindisfarne

HOLY ISLAND

[illustration] map of Guernsey

GARNSEY

[illustration] map of the Farne Islands

FARNE

[illustration] map of Jersey

IARSEY

HOLY-ISLAND.

CHAPTER XLV.

THis Island is called Lindisfarne, by the River Lied that is opposite unto it on the Coast of Northumberland. Beda termed it a Dem••-Island. The Britains name it Iuis Medicante, for that it twice every day suffereth an exordinary inundation and over-flowing of the Ocean in manner of an Island, which twice likewise makes it continent to the Land, and returning unto her watry habitation, lays the Shore bare again, as before. It is called in English, Holy-Island, for that in ancient times many Monks have been accustomed to retired themselves thither, and to make it their receptacle for solitude: having on the West and South, Nor∣thumberland, and more South Eastward the Island Farne.

(2) The form of it is long and narrow, the West-side narrower than the East, and are both con∣joyned by a very small spang of Land that is left unto Conies. The South is much broader than the rest. It is from East to West, about two thousand two hundred and fifty paces: and from North to South, twelve hundred and fifty paces; so that the circumference cannot be great.

(3) The Air is not very good either for health or delight, as being seated on those parts that are subject to extremity of cold, and greatly troubled with vapou••s and foggy mists that arise from the Seas.

(4) The Soil cannot be rich, being rocky and full of Stones, and unfit for Corn and Tillage. It is neither commended for Hills to feed Sheep, nor Pastures to fat Cattel; neither hath it Vallies replenished with sweet Springs, or running Rivolets, only one excepted, descending from a standing Pond. The only thing this Island yieldeth, is a fit and accommodate aptitude for Fishing and Fowling.

(5) Notwithstanding, this is very worthy of note concerning the same, which Alcun wrote in an Epistle to Egelred King of Northumberland, namely, that it was a place more venerable than all the places of Britain, and that after the departure of S. Paulinus from York, there Christian Religion be∣gan in their Nation, though afterwards it there felt the first beginning of misery and calamity, being left to the spoil of Pagans and Miscreants.

(6) It is also remembred of this Island, that sometime there hath been in it an Episcopal See, which Aidan the Scot instituted (being called thither to Preach the Christian Faith to the People of Nor∣thumberland) being thus delighted with the solitary situation thereof, as a most fit place for retire∣ment. But afterwards when the Danes rifled all the Sea-Coasts, the Episcopal See was translated to Durham.

(7) This Island so small in account either for compass or commodity, and so unpeopled and un∣profitable, cannot be numerous in Towns and Villages. It hath in it only one Town, with a Church and a Castle, under which there is a commodious Haven, defended with a Block-house, situate upon an Hill towards the South-East.

FARNE-ISLE.

THis Isle South-Eastward seven miles from Holy-Island, sheweth it self distant almost two miles from Brambrough Castle. On the West and South it beareth upon Northumber∣land, and on the North-east-side it hath other smaller Islands adjoyning to it, as Wido∣pons and Staple-Island, which lie two miles off Bronsinan, and two lesser than these, which are called the Wambes.

(2) The Form of this I••le is round, and no longer in compass than may easily be ridden in one half of a day. The breadth of it is but five miles▪ and the length no more. The whole circumference ex∣tends it self no further than to fifteen miles.

(3) The Air is very unwholsom, and subject both to many Dysenteries and other Diseases, by rea∣son of the mi••ty Fogs and Exhalations that are thereunto drawn up from the Ocean. It is many times troubled with unusual Tempests of Winds, with boisterous ••ury of stormy Rains, and with several and uncouth rages of the Sea.

(4) The Soil cannot be fertile, being incircled about with craggy Clifts; ••either hath it in it much matter either of pleasure or profit. It can neither defend it self from Cold, lacking Fuel, as Wood, Coal, Turffs, &c. Nor from Famine, wanting Food, as Corn, Pastures, Cattel, &c. The best Com∣modity it yields, is Fish and Fowl.

(5) This thing nevertheless is worthy to be remembred of it, which Beda (writing of the Life of Cuthbert Bishop of Lindisfarne, that Tutelar Patron of the Northern E••glishmen) reporteth, namely, that in this Isle he built a City fitting his Government, and erected certain Houses in the same; the whole building standing almost round in compass, and reaching the space of four or five Pearches. The Wall about it, he made higher than a Mans height, to with-hold and keep in the wanton lasciviousness both of his thoughts and eyes, and to elevate the whole intention of his mind up to heavenly desires, that he might wholly give himself to the service of God. But these are all made the ruins of time, as sithence many other Monuments have been of worthy Antiquity.

(6) I cannot report that there are now many Houses standing in it, much less Towns or Villages: Only this, that it hath a Tower or Place of Fortification belonging unto it, placed well-neer in the middle part of the Isle.

GARNSEY.

THis Island lieth about five leagues North-West from Iersey, and is compa••••ed (like to her neighbour) with the British Sea. It lieth in length from Plymouth-Bay South-West, to Lancro••se de Anckers North-East, thirteen miles: in breadth from S. Martins-point South-East, to the Howe North-West nine miles: and is in circuit thirty six miles. The Emperour Antonine having the rule and dominion of France (at that time called Gaul, from whence the word Gallia is derived) did name this Island Sarnia, which afterwards by the change of Times and corruption of Languages, was long since (and is at this day) called Garnsey.

(2) This Isle in form and fashion standeth in the Sea, much like to a Park that is encompassed ••ound about with a Pale of Rocks, being very defensible unto the Island from the attempting invasion of Enemies.

(3) The Air and Climate of this Isle hath little or no difference in temper or quality from that of Iersey. And this deserves to be remembred of it; that in this Isle is neither Toad, Snake, Adder, or any other venemous creature, and the other hath great plenty.

(4) It standeth for the most part upon a Rock, very high in many places from the Sea. Neverthe∣less the Soil is very fruitful, yielding forth great plenty of Grass for their Sheep and other Cattel, which they have to serve all uses. Their Fields in the Summer time are so naturally ga••nished with Flowers of all sorts, that a man (being there) might conceit himself to be in a pleasant artificial Garden.

(5) The Inhabitants are not so much given to Tillage as they of Iersey, though the Soil be as fruitful. They have of late take•• great delight in Planting and Setting of Trees of all sorts, and espe∣cially

of Apples, by reason whereof they make much Sider. Their Commodities are alike, and their helps from the Sea no less, or rather more.

(6) In this Isle are many great ••teep Rocks, among which is found a hard stone called by the ••re••ch-Men, Smyris, which we term Emerill. The Stone is serviceable for many purposes, and many Trades, as Glasiers, &c. but especially for the Goldsmiths and Lapidaries, to cut their precious Stones.

(7) It hath a head of Land upon the North part thereof, the passage into which is so narrow, that a man would think that at every Tyde (the Sea beating strongly on both sides) it were in a continual danger to be fundred from the other part of the Isle. This place is called S. Mic••••••l in the Vale, where (in former times) stood a Priory, or a Covent of Religious Persons, the ruines whereof are at this day to be seen.

(8) The government of this Isle, in nature and for•• rese••bles the other of I••rs••y, of whom shall be said. The People in their Original and Language alike also, but in their Customs nnd Conditions they come neerer the civil fashions of the English, Other matters of mo••ent I find not worthy to be recorded.

It hath ten Parishes, and one Market-Town, being also a Haven, a••d is called S. 〈…〉〈…〉 ••lose by the Peer,, and Cast••-Corn••t.

IERSEY.

THe two Islands Iersey and Garnsey, being the only remains of the Dukedom of Normandy; that in former times many years together was in the possession, and under the command of the Kings of England, annexing thereunto a large Territory and glorious Title to the Crown, are both seated in the Sea called Mare Britannicum, the Ocean parting them a good distance asunder, and are now both adjuncts, and within the circuit of Hampshire. For the first (being the Isle of Iersey) it lieth upon the British-Sea, having on the North parts the Coasts of Hampshire, and on the South the Country of Normandy.

(2) This Island is long, not much unlike the fashion of an Egg. It contains in length from Sent∣w••n-Poole upon the West, to Mount-Orguil Castle on the East, ten miles, and in breadth from Dubon∣point to Plymoun••-bay, six miles: the whole circuit of the Island being thirty eight miles. It is distant from a little Island ca••••ed Alderney, about four leagues. It was in old time called Caesaria; whether from Iulius Octavius, or any the other Caesars that followed, is unknown. But the Fre••chmen have by corruption of speech long time called it Iersey.

(3) It is a very pleasant and delightful Island, and giveth a pleasant aspect unto the Seas. It lyeth Southward not far from a craggy ridge of Rocks, which is much feared of the Mariners, and makes the passage that way very dangerous, howbeit it serves for a forcible defence against Pirats, or any stranger that attempts invasion, and they are termed Casquets.

(4) The Soil is very fertile, bringing forth store of Corn and Cattel, but especially of Sheep, that are of reasonable bigness, the most of them bearing four horns apiece: Their Wooll very fine and white, of which the Inhabitants make their Iersey Stockings, which

are ordinarily to be had in most parts of England, and yield a great commodity unto the Island.

(5) The first original of the Inhabitants sprung either from the Normans or Britains, or both. They speak French, though after a corrupt manner, and have continued their Names, Language, Customs, and Country, without any, or little intermix••ure, these many hundred years, having been under the jurisdiction of the English ever since the untimely and unnatural death of Robert Duke of Normandy, eldest son to William the Conquerour.

(6) The People of this Country live very pleasantly, as well by the profits of the Land, as the helps and furtherances of the Sea, that yields unto them (and especially in Summer season) great store of Fish but principally for Conger and Lobsters, the greatest and fat••est upon the Coa••t of England. Wood is very scant, for their best Fuel is Turff, some Coal they have brought unto them, but it is very dear; Straw, Furrs's, and Fern serving their ordinary uses. The middle part of the Island hath many pretty Hills rising in it, yielding a delightful object unto the Vallies, that receive from one another a mutual pleasure.

(7) The Governour of this I••le is the Captain thereof, who appointeth certain Officers under him: the principal of whom, carrieth the name and title of a Bailif, that in civil causes hath the assistance of twelve Iurats to determine of differences, and minister Iustice: in criminal matters seve••: in matters of reason and conscience, five. Their Twelve are chosen out of the twelve Parishes; so that no man goeth further to complain, than to his own Iurate in ordinary Controversies: but matters of moment and difficulty are determined before the Baili•••• in a General Meeting.

(8) This Isle hath two little Islands adjacent; the one S. Albous, the other Hillary Island. It hath twelve Parishes, and four Castles. No other Monuments of Name or Note.