Observations topographical, moral, & physiological made in a journey through part of the low-countries, Germany, Italy, and France with a catalogue of plants not native of England, found spontaneously growing in those parts, and their virtues / by John Ray ... ; whereunto is added a brief account of Francis Willughby, Esq., his voyage through a great part of Spain.

OF ROME.

OF Rome both ancient and modern, though more might be said than of any City in the world, yet because so much hath been written by others both in Latine and English, I shall be very brief, it being needless to trouble the world with what hath been already published in other books.

The most remarkable Antiquities to be seen in Rome are some ruines and remainders of Heathenish Temples, Theatres and Amphitheatres, Circi, Baths, Aquaeducts, Obelisks, Triumphal Arches, Pillars, Fora, Ma••solaea, Statues, Altar stones, Grave-stones and other stones with inscriptions, Medals, Entaglie or Gems en∣graven with figures, sacrificing vessels and instruments, Sepulchral urns, Lachrymal urns, ancient Lamps, Weights, Rings, Fibulae and abundance of other imple∣ments.

First for ancient Temples the most remarkable that I observed yet remaining,* 1.1 either entire or some parts or ruines of were

1. The Pantheon,* 1.2 now dedicated to the Virgin Mary and All-Saints, and commonly called the Ro∣tunda from its figure. Its highth was 144 feet, and its breadth as much. The roof was vaulted in form of a cupola, and all the light it received was by a large round hole of 3 yards diameter just in the top. It had a porch of 16 tall and massive pillars of speckled marble called Oriental granite; each pillar being of one entire stone; of which there are at present only 13 remaining. Upon the Architrave of the Portico is inscribed in large letters.

M. AGRIPPA L. F. COS. TERTIUM FECIT.

And underneath that in lesser Letters this,

IMP. CAES. L. SEPTIMIUS. SEVERUS. PIUS. PERTINAX. ARABICUS. ADIABENICUS. PARTHICUS. MAXIMUS. PONTIF. MAX. TRIB. POT. XI. COS. III. P. P. PROCOS. ET. IMP. CAES. M. AURELIUS. ANTO∣NINUS. PIUS. FOELIX AUG. TRIB. PO∣TEST. V. COS. PROCOS. PANTHEUM. VETUSTATE. CORRUPTTM. CUM. OM∣NI. CULTU. RESTITUERUNT.

This Temple was covered with copper-plates or tiles, taken away by Pope Vrban VIII; whence that Pasquinate, Quod non fecere barbari fecere Bar∣berini. He thereupon (as was thought) to silence and appease the clamour of the people, caused thereof to be made the 4 famous wreathed pillars and Canopy of the high Altar in S. Peter's Church. Of the very nails [clavi trabales] which fastned the tiles of the Portico was cast a great gun of the weight of 2800 pounds now to be seen in Castle S. Angelo with the figure of one of the nails, and an inscription upon it signifying whereof it was made, viz. Ex clavis trabalibus Porticus Agrippae. This Temple remains still entire, only despoiled of its ancient statues and ornaments. For heer besides many others was that famous Minerva of Phidias. When it was first built it had an ascent of 7 steps which encompassed it round, now you descend 11 steps to go into it: so much is the rubbish and earth grown up above it. Indeed a great part of old Rome lies buried under ground in its ruines. One remarkable thing in this Temple they bade us take notice of, which I find not in books, that is, that the lintel and side-posts of

the great door of this Church (which is of a huge highth and breadth for a door) are all of one entire stone; which we were content to believe rather than put our selves to the trouble of examining. In this Church is the monument of Raphael Vrbin, whose Epitaph (he being so eminent a person and one that carried on painting to its highest perfection) I shall heer insert.

Raphaeli Sanctio Joan. F. Vrbinat. Pictori eminentiss. Veterúmque aemulo, Cujus spirantes propè imagines si Contemplêre, naturae atque artis foedus Facilè inspexeris. Julii II & Leonis X Pontt. maxx. picturae Et Architect. operibus gloriam auxit. V. A. XXXVII integer integros. Quo dic natus est co esse desiit, VII. Id. Aprilis MDXX. Hîc situs est Raphael, timuit quo sospite vinci Rerum magna parens, & moriente mori.

2. Templum Fortunae virilis, according to some; according to others Templum Lunae, but more pro∣bably of the Sun and Jupiter. It stands by the River side not far from the broken bridge; is now called S. Maria Aegyptiaca, and therein the Armenians have their service.

3. Templum Solis; according to some Templum Vestae; and to others Templum Herculis Victoris. It stands near the precedent, and is now called La Ma∣donna del Sole, or S. Stefano allc carrozze. It is but small, of a round figure, having a portico or gallery of striate pillars round about it. The Walls are of stone, and it hath no windows, but receives all its light from a round hole in the top, like the Rotonda. This and the former remain still almost entire.

4. Templum Dianae Aventinae, now the Church of

S. Sabino. It is large; the walls of brick and the nave divided from the Isles by 12 striate pillars on each side.

5. Templum Herculis Aventini; now the Church of S. Alexius and Bonifacius; situate on the top of the Aventine mount, not far from the former.

6. Templum Jani quadrifrontis, in the Cow-mar∣ket. This seems rather to have been an Arch than a Temple.

7. Templum Concordiae, at the foot of Mons Capi∣tolinus, of which there remains only the portico, he∣ving eight great pillars of marble, most of them of one stone.

8. Templum Saturni, anciently the treasury, now S. Adrian's Church: at the foot of the Capital, near Severus his Arch. The frontispiece of this Church is a remainder of the old Temple.

9. Templum Antonini & Faustinae; now S. Loren∣zo in Miranda. The portico of this remains 〈◊〉〈◊〉 en∣tire with its ancient inscription, and a great part of the walls made of massy square stones. The marble pillars of the porch suffer much by the weather, be∣ing of that sort of stone, which hath a grain lying one way, and so riving or cleaving like wood.

10. Templum Romuli & Remi, now of S. Cosmo & Damiano; little of the old Temple remaining: the stones it seems being carried away by Ignatius Loyola for his foundation. There is a concurrent Echo, in a cupola you pass under to go into the body of this Church.

11. Templum Isidis & Scrapidis sive Solis & Lunae, now S. Maria nuova, near Titus his arch. The pre∣sent Church is no part of the old Temple, nor built exactly upon the place where it stood: but behind the Cloyster are some part of the ruines of the old Temple still remaining.

12. Templum Pacis. This was the largest of all the ancient Temples in Rome, built by Vespasian.

There are yet standing part of 3 vaults or arches; and the plant of the whole may easily be discerned. The great striate pillar set up before the Church of S. Maria maggiore was taken hence, and was one of eight which supported the nave or body of this Temple. It is the greatest pillar of one entire stone now remaining in Rome.

13. Templum Jovis Statoris. Of this the 3 pillars remaining in the Campo vaccino near the Palatine mountain are supposed to have been part.

14. Templum Jovis tonantis. Of this the 3 pillars almost buried in the earth, on the architrave whereof are these letters ESTITUER, standing on the left hand the clivus as you go up from Severus his arch to the Capitol are supposed to have been part.

15. Templum Fauni, now S. Stefano rotundo, a large round fabric, having two circles of pillars con••••••ical; the outermost of lesser pillars; the innermost of larger: in the outermost are 44 pillars, in the inner the just half of that number. Besides the pillars of the inner circle stand exactly at the same distance one from another as do those of the outer.

16. Templum Herculis Callaici, now Galluzzo. It stands in the vineyards near S. Bibiana; a very tall building of brick not exactly round but decagonal. The roof of it is a vault or cupola not so great as that of the Rotonda and yet not much less. It had two doors diametrically opposite, and in the other sides were 8 niches for statues.

17. Templum Bacchi extra portam Piam, one mile without the City walls: now the Church of S. Co∣stanza. This also is a round structure. The walls are of brick and of a great thickness: within it hath a lesser round or concentrical circle of 12 large pil∣lars There stands an ancient monument of Por∣phyry of the fashion of a huge chest or trough, ha∣ving

a stone to cover it. This is curiously engraven with several figures of branches of trees, boys tread∣ing of grapes, of birds, &c. They call it the monu∣ment of Bacchus. In several places of the roof are to be seen very fresh the pictures of bunches of grapes and several things belonging to the vintage. The freshness of the colours and rudeness of the figures makes me doubt whether this was ancient Roman painting or no.

18. Templum Solis. Of this there was lately a piece standing in the Garden of the Columnae upon monte cavallo, called Frontispicium Neronis and Torre∣di Nerone by the vulgar. It is now quite thrown down; only there remain in the Garden vast marble stones, the greatest that ever I saw, and some of them curiously carved which came from the top of this building.

19. Templum Romuli & Remi sub monte Palatino, now dedicated to S. Theodore. This is a round brick building, into which you descend by many steps as into the Rotonda.

Secondly, For Amphitheaters and Theaters there are [ 2] yet remaining great ruines of the Amphitheater of Titus now called the Coliseo, round without, and of an oval figure within; capable of 85000 men to sit and see. There are also some footsteps of the Am∣phitheater of Statilius Taurus, near to the Church of S. Croce in Gierusalemme; and lastly a good part of the walls of the Theatre of Marcellus, upon which the Savelli's Palace is built.

Thirdly, Of Circi there is 1. a good part of that [ 3] of Antoninus Caracalla, a mile out of the City. 2. Of the Circus maximus there is little remaining, only the fashion of it may be plainly discerned. 3. The Circus Agonalis stood where now is the Piazza Na∣vova. 4. Of the Circus of Nero in Campo Vaticano no∣thing remains now to be seen; as neither of 5. the Circus Flaminius.

Fourthly, For Baths there are great ruines of those of 1. Diocletian, wherein there were seats for 3200 persons to bathe themselves without seeing or hindering one another; in the building of which he is said to have employed 40000 Christians for 15 years together. 2. Antoninus Caracalla, in which were 1600 seats or closets of polished marble. These were those Thermae in modum Provinciarum extructae. Be∣sides there are some ruines remaining of 3. The Thermae of Titus. 4. Of Agrippa, near the Rotonda, called Ciambella. 5. Of Constantine near S. Sylvesters. 6. Of Nero near the Church of S. Eustachius. 7. Of Paulus Aemilius at the foot of Monte cavallo, called Magnanapoli. Many others there were anciently of which now scarce any foot-steps to be seen.

Fifthly, Of Aquaeducts the Author of Roma an∣tica & moderna mentions 4, of which something re∣mains, viz. that of 1. the Aqua Martia brought 37 miles, 2. the Aqua Claudia, brought 35. Upon the gates called Porta di S. Lorenzo and Porta maggiore there are ancient inscriptions signifying what Em∣perours reparied and built these Aquaeducts. 3. The Appia, brought 8 miles. 4. The Aqua Virginis brought also 8 miles, which was repaired by Pope Nicholas V, and is yet made use of, being called Fonte di Trivio. Of new Aquaeducts there are two very stately ones built by late Popes, of which the two following inscriptions will give the Reader an account.

I.

Sixtus V.* 2.1 Pont. max. Picenus
Aquam ex agro Columnae
Viâ Praenest. sinistrorsum
Multarum collectione venarum
Ductu sinuoso à receptaculo
Mill. XX. à Capite XXII Adduxit:
Foelicémque de nomine
Ant. Pont. dixit.
Coepit anno Ì. absolvit III.
MDLXXXVII.

II.

Paulus V Pontifex maximus aquàm in agro Braccia∣nensi saluberrimis è fontibus collectam, veteribus aquoe Alseatinae ductibus restitutis novisque additis XXXV ab Vrbe milliario duxit, Anno Domini MDCXII. Pontifi∣catus sui septimo.

Sixthly, Obelisks we took notice of nine, 1. That [ 6] in the Piazza within the Porta del Popolo. It stood an∣ciently in the Circus maximus, but being fallen down and broken in several pieces was by the appointment and at the charge of Sixtus V taken out thence, and the several pieces being handsomely set together again, erected heer upon a fair pedestal; on each side of which it hath an inscription; two ancient ones on the opposite sides in the same words, viz.

Imp. Caesar Divi F.
Augustus
Pontifex maximus
Imp. XII. Cos. XI. Trib. Pot. XIV
Aegypto in potestatem
Populi Romani redact.
Soli donum dedit.

two modern ones on the other two sides: on one this,

Sixtus V Pont. max.
Obeliseum hunc
A Caesare Aug. Soli
In Circo max. ritu
Dicatum impio,
Miserandâ ruinâ
Fractum obrutúmque
Erui, transferri,
Formae suae reddi,
Crucique invictiss.
Dedicari jussit.
A. MDLXXXIX. Pont. IV.

On the other this,

Ante Sacram
Illius aedem
Augustior
Laetiórque surgo
Cujus ex utero
Virginali
Aug. imperante
Sol Justitiae
Exortus est.

It is engraven on each side with 3 rows of Hiero∣glyphics.

2. That in the Piazza before Saint Peter's Church, the only one that still remains intire and unbroken. It was taken out of the Circus of Cali∣gula and Nero, and set up by Dominicus Fontana, by the other, and at the charge of Pope Sixtus V, as were also those of S. Maria maggiore and S. Job. Lateran This obelisk hath no Hieroglyphics upon it, is 72 foot high besides the pedestal, in all 108, said to weigh (according to Lassels) 956148 pounds. Of the manner of taking up and rearing this stone, and the engines employed about it, there is a particu∣lar book written. The 4 modern Inscriptions on the 4 faces of the pedestal, and the ancient one on the obelisk it self may be seen in Roma antica & moderna.

3. That of S. Joan. Lateran having 3 rows or files of Hieroglyphics on each side it. This is the greatest of all the obelisks in Rome, being 112 foot long besides the base, an at the base 9 1/2 feet thick one way and 8 foot the other. Who brought it to Rome and where it was set up, this Inscription upon it will acquaint the Reader.

Fl. Constantius Aug. Constantini Aug. F. obeliscum à patre loco suo motum, diúque Alexandriae ja∣centem trecentorum remigum impositum navi mi∣randae vastitatis per mare, Tiberimque magnis mo∣libus Roman convectum in circo maximo ponen∣dum curavit S. P. Q. R. D. D.

It was broken into several pieces but is well men∣ded and set together again, and the wanting Hiero∣glyphics supplied.

4. That of S. Maria maggiore, lesser then any of the forementioned, having on it no hieroglyphics. It was taken out of the Mausoleum of Augustus.

5. That of the Piazza Navona, erected by Pope Innocent X. It was taken out of the Circus of Cara∣calla, is the least of all the forementioned by much, having but one row of hieroglyphics. Of this Athan. Kircher hath written a book in folio, which he calls Obeliscus Pamphylius, from the Popes name to whom he dedicates it.

6. That of S. Mahuto fast by the Jesuites Church. It seems to be but a small piece of the top of an obe∣lisk broken off; it is engraven with hieroglyphics, and set up negligently on 4 rude stones.

7. That in the Garden of the Medici: it is full of hieroglyphics, and set upon a base without any inscription. It is but a small thing, and seems to have been only the top of a broken one.

8. That in the Garden of the Mattei, given them by the Senate and people of Rome. This also is a small one, and broken in two pieces, whereof the uppermost hath toward the top some hieroglyphics, the lower piece hath none.

9. In the Court of the Palace of the Prince of Paloestrina of the family of the Barberini lieth an obe∣lisk broken in 3 pieces, engraven with hieroglyphics, which its like was longer.

10. Roma antica mentions another standing at

the foot of the stairs in the Palace of the Vrsini in the Campo di fiore: but this we saw not.

11. We were told of an obelisk lying in the Cam∣pus Martius under a row of houses, as big if not big∣ger then any of those already erected, and supposed to continue intire and unbroken.

These obelisks, all that are engraven with hiero∣glyphics, are of one and the same kind of stone, viz. a marble of a mingled colour red and white, which some call very hard, and which hath not in so many ages suffered the least by the weather. As for the figure of them they are made taper-wise, lessening from the basis to the vertex by little and little, so that indeed they are not much unlike a spit, from whence they took their name. Yet are they not continued till they terminate in a point; but when they are become too small to en∣grave more hieroglyphics upon, the tops are cut into the form of an obtuse pyramid. It is said, and I think truly, that the hieroglyphics engraven upon these obelisks are from the bottom to the top greater and greater by degrees; so that the lowermost and the rest all along to the uppermost appear to the specta∣tor of equal bigness.

[ 7] Seventhly,* 2.2 Of triumphal Arches there are yet re∣maining that of Septimius Severus; that of Titus Vespasian; that of Constantine the Great; that in the Cow-market called the Goldsmiths Arch erected to Septimius Severus his son Antoninus: that of G••llie∣nus and Salonina commonly called the Arch of S. Vito. As for the Arch called Arco di Portogallo in the Via Flaminia, mentioned in Roma antica, it is I sup∣pose demolished, for we could find nothing of it. The inscriptions upon these arches, and the places where they stand may be seen in the book entituled Roma antica & moderna.

[ 8] Eighthly,* 2.3 Of pillars beside such as belonged to temples there are 4 remaining. 1. The Columna mil∣liaria,

which stood in the Forum Romanum, as it were in the center of the City, from whence they began to reckon the distance from Rome to all parts. This pillar is marked toward the top with this nu∣meral letter I, of a great bigness, signifying one or the first stone, and upon every public way at a miles end was set up a second stone marked II, and so in order at every miles end a stone marked with the number of the miles of its distance from Rome: So that ad secundum lapidem signified at one miles di∣stance from this pillar; ad tertium two, and so on.

This pillar is not considerable for its greatness but only for the use of it, and the ancient inscriptions upon it. It is now set up on one side of the Area of the Capitol.

2. The Columna rostrata, erected in the Forum Romanum to C. Duilius, who obtained a victory over the Carthaginians in a Sea-fight. There is upon it a long inscription in old Latine, full of lacunae, and hardly intelligible; which as it is supplied and made out may be seen in Roma antica.

3. The Columna Trajana or pillar of Trajan of white marble, still standing ever since its first erecti∣on. It is 128 foot high beside the base, which is of 12 feet. Within it is hollow and hath a pair of win∣ding stairs of 192 steps, whereby one may ascend to the top, and there are in it 44 little windows to give light. It is made up of 24 stones, and every stone hath in it 8 steps. On it are carved in an helical area, compassing the pillar after the manner of a screw from top to bottom, the exploits and atchievements of Trajan in his Dacic expedition, &c. The pede∣stel of this pillar was all buried under ground, and not to be seen, till they dug about it and laid it open by the order of Pope Paul the III. Upon it are in∣scribed these words.

S. P. Q. R. Imp. Caesari Divi Nervae F. Nervae Trajano Aug. Germ. Dacico, Pont. maximo, Trib. Potest XVI. Imp. VI. Cos. VI. PP. ad declarandum quantae ••ltitudinis mons & locus tantis operibus sit egestus.

4. The pillar of Antoninus, much like the former, 175 foot high, ascended by 206 steps and having 56 little windows. This pillar was broken and miser∣ably defaced; but by Pope Sixtus V mended and re∣stored to its pristine form. Vide Roma antica.

[ 9] Ninthly,* 2.4 Of Mausolaea, there are only that of Augustus and the moles of Adrian, now called Castle S. Angela.

[ 10] Tenthly,* 2.5 Of Statues there are an infinite number in the palaces and gardens about Town, both ancient and modern: I believe more then in all Europe be∣sides. Some of the most famous and esteemed are, the Equestris Statua in brass of M. Aurelius Antoninus Pius, now standing in the area of the Capitol. The statues of the two horses with men by them in stone, now standing upon the Mous Quirinalis which is thence called Monte Cavallo. The statues of Laocoon, the trunk of Hercules, and Cleopatra, in the Popes garden called Belvedere. The famous statue of the Bull in the D. of Parma's palace, called, II Toro di Farnesi. The incomparable statue of Venus in the Duke of Tuscany's villa, made by Apollodorus the Athenian. Venus verecunda ib. Marsyas hung up by the hands, ib. The Wrestlers, ib. The Countrey-man who discovered Catiline's conspiracy in a sitting posture with a wood-knife in his hand, ib. The sta∣tue of Meleager in the palace of the Pichini. The statue of Pasquin, whereon the Libels use to be fast∣ned. The statue of the fellow plucking a thorn out of his foot in the Capitol. The statue of the shee∣woolf giving suck to Romulus and Remus in brass, esteemed the ancientest in Rome. The Gladiator in

white marble worth its weight in gold, in the Villa Borghese. A copy of this in brass stands in S. James's Park, London. Two statues resembling friendship, in the Villa Ludovisia.

Of Altar-stones, grave-stones and other stones [ 11] with inscriptions there is great plenty in all quarters of the City.

Of ancient Medals and Entaglie there are daily [ 12] digged up store;* 2.6 and no wonder it is, this having been the seat of the Empire so long. They are to be sold in many shops, and I have frequently seen of them lying upon the stalls in the market-places. Divers also of the Virtuosi have collected whole series of imperial medals.

Of sepulchral urns of several fashions and magni∣tudes, [ 13] some made of earth,* 2.7 some of stone, there are abundance to be seen in the ville, gardens and pala∣ces of the great persons, and in the Cabinets of the Virtuosi.

As for sacrificing vessels and instruments, lachry∣mal [ 14] urns, ancient lamps, rings, fibulae, and other im∣plements, tesserae hospitalitatis, weights, &c. several antiquaries there are in town, who have likewise made collections of them; as Leonardus Augustinus the then Popes Antiquary, and John Petro Bellori, a very ingenious person and skilful in Antiquities, who shew'd us a great number of these things and very well conserved. That worthy and ingenious Gentleman Cavalier Carlo Antonio dal Pozzo shew'd us some 20 volumes in folio, wherein were the fi∣gures of most of the Antiquities in and about Rome, drawn exactly by the hand. In one of these were all the vessels and instruments used about sacrificing. In others of them we noted the Crepundia antiqua, which were little images made of earth like children, hares, apes, &c. found in urns. The Sistrum of Ca∣valier Gualdi figured in Roma Antica: Ancient Sta∣terae; ancient weights. Of these ancient weights we

saw in the museum of Leonardus Augustinus some made of a dark red stone handsomely polished, of the figure of Holland cheeses, and of several mag∣nitudes, marked on one side with the number of ounces or pounds which they weighed. Of these weights I have seen two in the Church of S. Maria in Cosmedin, called Schola Graeca, and two in the Church of S. Maria in Trastevere of the bigness of good large Holland cheeses, which they have a tra∣dition and have inscribed on the wall where they were hung up, that they were stones that the heathens hung at the feet of Christian Martyrs when they suffered, to stretch and torment them. A medal with the figure of a talus on one side and on the other this inscription, Qui ludit arrham det quod satis sit The ancient Fritillus or dice-box, like those now in use. The ancient Strigiles: A medal of that sort that was used to be hung about slaves necks, having on the one side the figure of the wolf with Romulus and Remus hanging at her paps; on the other in 3 concentrical circles these words, Tene me nè fugiam & revoca me in foro Trajani purpuretica ad Pascasium Dominum meum. A drinking glass made like a Priapus, which explains that of the Poet, Vitreo bibit ille Pri∣apo. The ancient timbrel, like those we have seen used now a days. It is made in fashion of a sieve, the bottom of it on which they strike, of vellum, the rim of wood, having several long holes or crannies in it, wherein are hung round pieces of brass like great medals upon their centers; besides there is a string cross the instrument hung full of bells.

Rome is a large City, but seemed to us not so po∣pulous as either Venice, Milan or Naples: they reckon the number of inhabitants to be about 120000 souls besides strangers, of which there are a great num∣ber always heer. The extent of the walls is greater than of any City in Europe, viz. 13 miles; but they take in a great deal of wast ground. The City is now

crept down from the hills (upon which the chief of it formerly stood) into a valley by the rivers side sur∣rounded with hills. It is generally well built; many of the streets straight and adorned with a great num∣ber of stately palaces scattered up and down all over the town; full of Monasteries and Churches, of which they say of all sorts there are above 300. It is well served with all provisions for the belly: yet are not things generally so cheap there as either at Naples or Florence. Their beef (as I intimated before) is ve∣ry good, not much inferiour to ours in England. Be∣fore they kill their beasts they put them in a great heat and chafe, for the same reason I suppose that we hunt Deer and bait Bulls in England, viz. to make the flesh eat more tender and short, which yet spoils the colour of the meat, and in some mens judgment the taste too, disposing it to putrefaction. Their suck∣ing veal, which they call vitella mungana, they ima∣gine all Europe cannot parallel for goodness and deli∣cacy. Their kid or Caprette is also accounted very good meat; and so is their Swines-flesh. Their Mut∣ton is the least commendable, as being for the most part tough and dry. Tame fowl they have as good and savory as in any place, v. g. Hens, Capons, Tur∣keys, tame Pigeons. Geese are seldom heer to be sold▪ Plenty also there is of wild foul of the best sorts, and cheap enough, as Partridge of two kinds, the com∣mon and red legg'd Partridge, Wood-cocks, Snipes, Duck and Mallard, Wigeon, Teal, Gray, green and bastard Plover, Curlews, Quails. Of small birds the greatest plenty that I have any where seen, as Thrushes in winter time an incredible number, Black∣birds store, Larks infinite. One would think that in a short time they should destroy all the birds of these kinds in the Countrey. For besides that you never fail of great numbers of them in all the Poulterers shops, there is every afternoon a market of small birds wherein they are sold by the Countrey people.

Besides the forementioned there are sometimes to be sold Cranes, wild Geese, Shell-drakes, Avosettae, Water Hens, Berganders and several other sorts of wild fowl. I have seen lying frequently in the Poulterers shops, and therefore I presume some people eat them, such Birds as in England no man touches, viz. Kites, Buz∣zards, Spar-hawks, Kestrels, Jayes, Magpies and Wood-peckers. Nothing more commonly sold and eaten heer and in all Italy, than Coots and Stares. They spare not the least and most innocent birds, which we account scarce worth the dressing, much less powder and shot, v. g. Robin-red-breasts, Fin∣ches of all kinds, Titmise, Wagtails, Wrens, &c.

No want of fish either of fresh or salt water, though it be sold commonly dearer than flesh, as be∣ing brought a great way. Scarce any fish to be found any where on the coast of Italy but some time or other it may be met withal heer. Those that are the most frequent in the markets are, of River or Fresh-water fish, Pike, Carp, Tench, Trout, Eel, Barble, Chevin, Dace. I do not remember that I ever saw a Perch to be sold in Rome. Of Sea-fish, Mullus antiquo∣rum, which they call Triglia, of which they have a Proverb, La Triglia non mangia chi la piglia. He that takes the Triglia eats it not. This fish the French call Rouge from its colour; and we in Cornwal (where I have seen of them taken) Surmullet. Spie∣gole, in Latine Lupus marinus, of which kind I have not seen any in England; Orate, Giltheads; Cephali, which we in English call Mullet, the ancients cal∣led it Mugil; Sarde, a kind of Sprat; Conger; Lamprey; Sole; Plaise and others of the flat kind; Merluzzos, which we call Hake; sometimes small sturgeons; Dog-fish of several sorts; Tuny and Sword-fish is also to be sold heer.

Wild Boar and venison of wild Deer you shall sel∣dom fa••l of, to be sold in the Poulterers shops. Their wild Deer they call Capreole, it is for the most part

very lean▪ Porcupine also is sometimes to be sold in the markets.

Oranges and Lemons are cheap in Rome; Pears and Apples, if they be good and large fruit, dear, they sell them by weight heer, as they do generally all over Italy.

Their bread is very good and light notwithstand∣ing they use no yeast to raise it, and cheaper than ours in England. And heer by the way it may not be amiss to take notice, that the use of yeast for the raising and fermenting of bread in these Northern Countries hath been very ancient. I find mention of it in Pliny, lib. 18. cap. 6. who thereupon gives their bread the preeminence for lightness. Gal∣liae, saith he, & Hispaniae frumento in potum resoluto, quibus diximus generibus, spumâ itâ concretâ pro fer∣mento utuntur. Quâ de causâ levior illis quàm caeteris panis est.

Heer is great variety of Wines: more sorts com∣monly sold than in any other City of Italy: as Greco, Lagrime or Naples, Languedoc wine, wine of Syragusa and Augusta in Sicily, Orvietano, Jensano, Monte Pulciano, di Monte fiascone, Castelii, Romano, and which is most commonly drunk, Albano. Most of the wines are sweet and full-bodied, and will bear half water. Sweet wines they call abboccati and rough wines asciuti. They have little wine so harsh and rough upon the palate as our French Claret and Florence red wine, though those also are to be had heer. Their Olives are small, but good and sweet. They have plenty of Wall-nuts and Hazel-nuts, and other fruits the same that we have. For Ap∣ples and Pears no Countrey hath better, I had almost said so good as we in England. For Apri∣cocks I tasted none beyond the Seas comparable to ours.

Rome is noted for several commodities and ma∣nufactures, as Viol and Lute-strings the best in Eu∣rope;

perfumed gloves; combs made of Buffles horns, womens fans, Vitriol, Essences.

Commonly all strangers that travel thither buy of those things not for their use only, but to make pre∣sents of to their friends.

Heer is doubtless the best music in the world, es∣pecially voices, there being many Eunuchs and Nuns, a great part of whose employment it is to sing in the Quire.

For pictures of the best masters Rome excells all places, there being more heer than I think in all Italy besides, so that Rome is become the school of Painters, who come from all parts of Europe hither to study and practise. At present Cavalier Bernini is the most noted and indeed only excellent Sculptor, and Pietro de ••ortona the most eminent painter.

The ville (as they now call them) of the Princes and prime Nobility of Rome, for gardens of flowers, groves and thickets of trees, cut hedges of Cypress, Alaternus▪ Laurel, Bay, Phillyrea, Laurus tinus and other semper-virent plants, close and open walks of great length, orchards of fruit-trees, Labyrinths, fountains and ingenious water-works, Bird-cages, statues and other ornaments, especially their great∣ness (some being in compass 3 or 4 miles) excel the orchards, gardens and walks of any Prince in Chri∣stendom that I have seen. Of these there are a great number, but the chief of all are 1. The Villa Bor∣ghese, of which family was Pope Paul V. This is esteemed the best of all the villae and gardens about Rome, though it be not so vast as 2. the villa Pam∣phylia, of which family was Pope innocent X. This is on the Janiculum without S. Pancras's gate and is said to be 4 miles in compass. 3. The Villa Ludo∣visia belonging to the Prince Ludovisio; of which family was Gregory XV. 4. The Popes garden at the Vatican called Belvedere. 5. The Popes garden at monte cavallo. 6. The garden of the Grand Duke

or the villa de Medici. 7. The garden of Montaltō. 8. The garden of the Mattei. In all which there are little palaces furnished and adorned with excellent statues, bassi rilievi, pictures and other curiosities, which I forbear to enumerate and describe at large, that I may not spend time, and waste paper in wri∣ting what few will think worth their while or pains to read; and which hath already been published by Mr. Lassels in his voyage of Italy, to which I refer the curious for further satisfaction.

Of the palaces and public buildings I shall say nothing, only I cannot forbear a word or two of S. Peter's Church, which is in my opinion the most stately, sumptuous and magnificent structure that now doth, or perhaps ever did stand upon the face of the earth. This was the only building that sur∣prised me and exceeded my expectation, being for a work of man the most pleasant and goodly, not to say ravishing object that ever I beheld. The whole pile of that majestic bulk and greatness that it ex∣ceeds in all dimensions the most famous Temples mentioned by the ancients: being in length 520 foot (as Mr. Lassels tells us) and 385 in breadth: and in some, the greatest Christian Churches; for though it be not so long as S. Pauls London, yet is it much broader, and in that respect much handsomer; the breadth being more proportionate to the length. The cupola of that marvellous highth and compass (the diameter thereof be••ng equal to that of the Pantheon) and sustaining on the top a huge stone∣lanthorn, with great pillars of stone about it, that it may well be accounted the boldest piece of Archi∣tecture (as he saith) that I think the world hath seen. The Roof arched or vaulted, and the vault divided into great squares or panes like wainscot after the old Roman fashion; the ribs and transverse borders which terminate those squares or pannels being chan∣nelled and richly gilded, and the area of each square

almost fill'd up with a gilt rose. The oval Portico encompassing a large area before the Church, consist∣ing of 4 rows of great stone pillars standing so thick that they show like a grove of great trees: The stately porch to which you ascend out of this area by 24 steps; not to mention the incrustation of some part of the walls with polished marble; the excel∣lent statues, stately Altars, rare pictures and other ornaments, render this Church truly admirable, and in all respects I will not say comparable to but excelling the best in the world.

During our stay at Rome we rode forth to see 1. Frescati 12 Italian miles distant, anciently called Tusculum, where Cicero had a villa or Countrey∣house, of which as yet they shew some remains. Heer are at present 3 noted ville, 1. That of the Borghesi with the palace called Mondragone, and two others. 2. The Villa Aldobrandina or Belvedere be∣longing to Prince Pamphylio. 3. The Villa Ludovisia; all of them for walks, groves, Labyrinths, gardens and other ornaments not inferiour to the best about Rome, and for cascates or falls of water, wetting sports and other ingenious water-works, beyond them. What we took more especial notice of, as ha∣ving not before seen, was the imitation of a tempest or storm of thunder and rain. This artificial thun∣der they call Girandola.

2. Tivoli, anciently Tibur, 18 Italian miles off Rome. Of this City Horace was much enamoured, praying that it might be the seat and retirement of his old age. Tibur Argeo positum colono, Sit meae sedes utinam senectae, Sit modus lasso maris & viarum mili∣tiaeque. It stands like Frescati on the brow of a hill and overlooks the Campagna of Rome. Heer are some remains of ancient temples and other build∣ings, and a remarkable cascate of the river Aniene or Teverone. The villa of Este for gardens and or∣chards, walks and groves, the Girandola and other

water works is nothing inferiour to those at Frescati. About 5 miles distant from Tivoli we passed over the Sulphur-river, the water whereof is warm, of a blewish colour and noisom smell, much like to that of the Sulphur-well at Knareburgh in Yorkshire. It encrusts the channel it runs in with a whitish kind of friable stone, which in many places in the bottom and sides of the channel congeals in the figure of confects or sugar-plums which they call Confetti de Tivoli. Of these you have boxes full to be sold at Rome, so exactly resembling confects both for fi∣gure and colour that no man can distinguish them; but they are not naturally found so figured, as they would make strangers believe, but artificially made so by casting in moulds. About Frescati we found great store of Styrax arbor growing wild in the hed∣ges, which we found no where else beyond the Seas.

The Campagna of Rome seems to be good land, but is esteemed a very bad air and unhealthful Coun∣trey to live in, which is the reason it is so desolate and thin of inhabitants.

I had almost forgot one natural Phaenomenon we observed at Rome, which did a little surprise us. In sharp ••rosty weather in the middle of Winter, the water which the servants brought up to wash with in the morning was hot to that excess that we did verily believe they had heated it over the fire; nor could we be perswaded of the contrary till we went down to the fountain, and found it there of equal temper with what was brought up. It was formerly taken for granted by the Peripatetic Schools, that fountains of springing water are hotter in cold wea∣ther or winter and colder in hot or summer than at other times; the reason whereof they assigned to be an Antiperistasis, satisfying themselves with that, and seeking no further. Later Philosophers who could not content themselves with the notion of An∣tiperistasis, chose rather to deny the truth of the ex∣periment,

and affirmed that fountain-water was not really warmest in the coldest weather, or coldest in the hottest, but only seemed so to our sence; the temper of which is much altered according to the difference of the weather: So that what is much colder than our temper in hot weather, is not much colder in cold weather, and so seems not so cold, and on the contrary. Or thus, We judging of the heat and cold of other things by the proportion they bear to the temper of the air about us, when the air is very cold, though the water hath the same degree of cold it had before, yet it may be hotter then the air, and consequently seem to us actually hot, and vice versa. But for my part whatever the reason be, I must needs assert the truth of the experiment, being very confident that the water, at least of some sour∣ces, doth not only seem to be but really is much hot∣ter in cold frosty weather than at other times; else this water could not possibly have seemed to us, as it did, more than luke-warm.

Great store of rain falls heer in winter time to make amends for the extraordinary heat and drought of the summer.

Rome is a place not only well worth the seeing, but very convenient to sojourn in, there being where∣withal to entertain and divert men of all sorts of hu∣mors and tempers.

The present Romans seemed to me in their houses and furniture, particularly their beds and lodging, in their diet, in their manners and customs and in their very pronunciation (so liquid, plain and di∣stinct) more to symbolize and agree with us English then any other people of Italy, whether it were that we learned of them or they of us or both mutually of each other, when there was that great commerce and entercourse between us and that City for so ma∣ny years together.

To describe at large the Court of Rome with all

its Officers and Ministers; the Ecclesiastical govern∣ment of the Romish Church in general; their Cere∣monies and shows; the civil government of the ter∣ritories subject to the Pope and particularly of the City of Rome; the interest of the Pope and the terms he stands in with other Princes, would require a vo∣lume alone; and therefore I shall chuse rather whol∣ly to omit those particulars for the present, and pass on to the description of our succeeding voyage.

January 24. 1664. We departed from Rome and began our journey to Venice; riding along the Via Flaminia, and passing the Tiber again by the Ponte Molle or Pons Milvius. At 7 miles distance from Rome we passed a small village called Prima porta.* 2.8 Some suppose that anciently the City extended thus far: which conjecture I conceive is grounded upon the name of this place. Eight miles further riding brought us to a small town called Castel novo, where we lodged. All this afternoon we rode near the Ti∣ber, upon the Via Flaminia, which reaches as far as Rimini. It is paved with broad flints, and pebbles, and hath on each side a border of stone, and in that border at every second or third pace a stone standing up higher than the level of the border. We obser∣ved in the fields we passed through this day great store of vernal crocuses now in flower.

We proceeded on to Arignano or Ariano,* 2.9 a little town and a post-stage 8 miles. Heer we left the Via Flaminia, and rode round a high hill (which stands single,* 2.10 and may be seen 20 miles forward) to Civita Castellana a little town standing on a hill and a post-stage, 9 miles. Not far from hence we had the pro∣spect of Caprarola and the Duke of Parma's Palace,* 2.11 [where we were told is a whispering room like that in the Palace of Te at-Mantua] which seemed not to be more than two or three miles distant in a right line, but we were assured that as the way lay it was ten or twelve miles thither.

Four miles further we came to a poor small town called Borgetto;* 2.12 a little below which we passed the Tiber by a bridge called Ponte Felice,* 2.13 begun by Sixtus V and finished by Vrban VIII, for the benefit of Travellers and Pilgrims, as appears by an inscripti∣on upon it. Not far from the river on our right hand we passed under a little town, standing on the top of a hill,* 2.14 called Magliano, and rode on about 6 miles near the bank of the river, (having in prospect at a good distance on our left hand a town called Horta) till we came to Vtricoli,* 2.15 which town at pre∣sent stands upon a hill,* 2.16 but by the ruines that re∣main, the ancient Ocricoli seems to have lain near the river, at least part of it.

From Vtricoli we had stony way over the moun∣tains for five miles. For about a mile before we en∣tred Narni we rode upon the brink of a horrid pre∣cipice by the river Nera's side.* 2.17 Narni anciently called Nequinum, and afterwards Narnia from the river Nar which runs beneath that steep rocky mountain upon the ridge whereof this City stands, was formerly a Roman colony and a place of some account, but is now very mean, poor, and inconsiderable. Leander Albertus saith it was ruined and left almost quite de∣solate by the Venetian Souldiers who were quartered there in the time that the Emperour Charles V be∣sieged Pope Clement VII in the Castle S. Angelo. Gatta∣melata the famous Captain for the Venetians, to whom they have erected a brass statue on horseback near S. Antonies Church in the City of Padua, was native of this town. Near Narni are seen the re∣mainders of vast arches of stone, which some say were of a bridge, others more probably of an Aque∣duct, over the river from one mountain to another.

We rode from Narni over a pleasant and fruitful valley,* 2.18 encompassed with mountains, and cultiva∣ted after the manner of Lombardy, to Terni, anciently Interamna from its situation, a handsome little City,

having a pretty piazza, on which stands a Church that seems to have been an ancient temple. About 4 miles from this town is that famous Cascate or fall of water from the lake di Pie di Luco. At the fur∣ther end of this valley beyond Terni and upon the hills were the greatest olive-yards or rather forests of huge olive-trees that I have any where seen in Italy, and at this time of the year we found the people ve∣ry busie in brushing down and gathering of olives.

From Terni we had mountainous way to a little place called Tritura, another Post-stage, and from thence we descended to Spoleto,* 2.19 the chief town of Vmbria thence called Ducato Spoletano. The walls of this City are of a large extent, and the houses in∣differently fair, and there are to be seen many ruines of ancient buildings in it.

From Spoleto we rode through a very pleasant and fruitfull valley of a great extent, surrounded with mountains, much resembling the Arena of an Amphi∣theater, planted with rows of trees and vines after the manner of Lombardy. The hills round about yield a pleasant prospect, being sprinkled every where with little towns and houses set thick upon them. About 4 miles short of Foligno we rode under an indifferent great town, standing on a round hill, called Trevi.* 2.20

Foligno [Fulginium] is a pleasant and handsome little town,* 2.21 noted for confections and sweet-meats. At the end of the valley of Spoleto beyond Fuligno we observed the like woods of olive-trees as in the valley of Terni.

Leaving Foligno we ascended again in a way cut out of the side of a mountain,* 2.22 having on our left hand a huge precipice, and below a valley between very high and steep hills, into which at the upper end falls down a little river called Dale, which drives some paper-mills; a pleasant place to behold. About 4 or 5 miles from Foligno we got up to the top of the

Apponnine, where the mountains all about us were co∣vered with snow. On the top of these mountains is a little plain, and upon it a small lake or pool of water, and a village called Col fiorito, a very pleasant place in Summer-time, as its name imports. When we had passed over this plain we began again to descend, and the next considerable village we came to was Serravalle, ex re nomen habens, it being situate in the jaws of a narrow valley, 14 miles distant from Foligno. From Serravalle we rode among the mountains by the side of a little river, passing several small villages, viz. La Muccia or Mu∣tia and Pulverina, &c. and lodged at Valcimarra.

We rode through Tolentino a pretty little town, having a handsome piazza,* 2.23 distant 9 miles from Val∣cimarra. This was the Birth-place of Franciscus Phi∣lelphus a learned man, and a great Critic in the Greek tongue. He it was that invented the word stapes for a stirrop, which before had no name in Latine.* 2.24 From Tolentino we had 10 miles to Mace∣rata, a large, well-built and populous town, having a handsome piazza. It is the Capital city of Marca Anconitana, where the Cardinal-Legate or gover∣nour of the Province usually resides. From Maccrata we rode to Loreto passing through Recanati,* 2.25 in La∣tine Ricinetum, a very pretty town, situate on the ridge of a hill, and but 3 miles short of Loreto.* 2.26 It arose from the ruines of Helvia Ricina, destroyed by the Goths. Heer we took notice of a table with a brass statue of the Virgin Mary in basso relievo upon it, and an inscription, giving thanks to her that she was pleased to fix her house in the territory of this City.

Loreto stands likewise upon a hill, a pretty small place, consisting only of one little street within the walls, and a Burgo or Suburb without likewise of one street, as big as the City within. The Church and College of the Canons stands at one end of the street. Before the Church is a little piazza having a

cloyster or Portico on one side where the Canons lodgings are. In the midst of this piazza is a hand∣some fountain, and before the Church door a brass statue of Sixtus V in a sitting posture, with an in∣scription signifying that he had advanced Loreto to the dignity of a city, giving it a Bishop. The doors of the Church are of brass cast and graven with several histories. The Church is built like our Ca∣thedrals in form of a Cross, having a Cupola in the middle, directly under which stands the Santa Casa or holy house (as they call it) enclosed in a case of white Parian marble, curiously engraven with seve∣ral figures in b. r. representing several histories, by the best sculptors then living. The house it self is sufficiently described in the history of it written by Tursellinus. The walls (which are now only remain∣ing, the roof being removed) are made of a kind of red stone (as they would have us believe) not only of the colour but also of the figure of bricks, indeed so like bricks that I can hardly perswade my self they were any other. This kind of stone, they say, at this present is found about Nazareth and no where else, which if true is one of the best arguments they have to prove that this house came from thence. That the Reader may see what weak proofs and little evidence they have of the miraculous transporation of this house from Judea hither, I shall heer insert the whole Relation of it made by themselves, which is translated into 13 several languages and hung up in tables heer in the Church: and in English runs thus,

Ave Domina Angelorum.

The miraculous Origin and Translation of the Church of our Lady of Loretto.

The Church of Loreto was a Chamber of the B. Virgin nigh Jerusalem, in which she was born and

bred, and saluted by the Angel, and therein concei∣ved and brought up her Son Jesus to the age of 12 years. This chamber after the Ascension of our Savi∣our was by the Apostles consecrated into a Church in honour of the B. Lady: and S. Luke made a pi∣cture to her, likewise extant therein to be seen at this very day. It was frequented with great devotion by the people of the Countrey where it stood whilst they were Catholics. But when leaving the Faith of Christ they followed the Sect of Mahomet, the An∣gels took it and carried it into Sclavonia and placed it by a town called Flumen, where not being had in due reverence, they again transported it over the Sea to a wood in the territory of Recanati, belong∣ing to a Noble woman called Loretta, from whence it took the name of our Lady of Loreto; and thence again they carried it, by reason of the many robbe∣ries committed, to a mountain of two brothers in the said territory: and from thence finally, in re∣spect of their disagreement about the gifts and offer∣ings, to the common high-way not far distant, where it now remains without foundations, famous for many signs, graces and miracles; whereat the inhabitants of Recanati, who often came to see it, much wondering, environed it with a strong and and thick wall, yet could no man tell whence it came originally, till in the year 1296. the B. V. ap∣peared in sleep to a holy devout man, to whom she revealed it, and he divulged it to others of Autho∣rity in this Province, who determining forthwith to try the truth of the vision, resolved to chuse xvi men of credit, who to that effect should go all to∣gether to the City of Nazareth, as they did, carrying with them the measures of this Church, and com∣paring therewith the foundatious remnant, they found them wholly agreeable; and in a wall there by engraven, that it stood there, and had left the place. Which done they presently returning back,

published the premisses to be true: and from that time forward it hath been certainly known, that this Church was the Chamber of the Virgin Mary: to which Christians began then, and have ever since had great: devotion, for that in it daily she hath done and doth many and many miracles. One Frere Paul de Sylva an Eremite of great sanctity, who lived in a cotage nigh unto this Church, whither daily he went to Mattins, said that for ten years space on the 8th. of September, two hours before day he saw a light descend from heaven upon it, which he said was the B. V. who there shewed her self on the Feast of her Nativity. In confirmation of all which two virtuous men of the city of Recanati divers times declared unto the Prefect of Terreman and Gover∣nour of the forementioned Church is followeth, The one called Paul Renalduci avouched, that his Grandfather saw when the Angels brought it over the Sea, placed it in the forementioned wood, and had often visited it there: the other called Francis Prior in like sort affirmed, that his Grandfathers Grandfather, being 120 years old, had also much frequented it in the same place, and for further proof that it had been there, he reported that his Grand∣fathers Grandfather had a house nigh unto it, where∣in he dwelt; and that in his time it was carried by the Angels from thence to the mountain of the two Brothers, where they placed it as abovesaid.

By order of the right reverend Monsignor Vincent Cassal of Bo∣lognia, Governour of this holy place, un∣der protection of the most reverend Car∣dinal Moroni. I Robert Corbington Priest of the Society of Jesus in the year 1634. have faithfully translated the pre∣misses out of the La∣tine original hanging in the said Church. To the honour of the ever-glorious Virgin.

The Treasury of this Church is very rich, full of Jewels, precious stones, gold and silver vessels, and tabulae votivae, embroidered Altar-clothes, copes, vests, &c. of great value, besides other ornaments and curiosities, which have been presented by seve∣ral Prinves and great persons. The most considerable particulars those that are curious may find set down in Lassels his Voyage of Italy, as also of the vessels and plate in the house it self. The earthen pots in the Apothecaries shop, most part of them painted by the hand of Raphael de Vrbino, and the great wine cellar, are things that use to be shewn to tra∣vellers.

We travelled from Loreto to Ancona 15 miles of foul way.* 3.1 This is a considerable city, well peopled and frequented by Merchants, by reason of the com∣modiousness of the harbour, which was formerly the verybest in all the gulf, but is now run much to decay. The chief remarkables we took notice of were [1.] The Remainders of the stones securing the ancient port, where stands that famous trium∣phal arch of white Parian marble, by order of the Senate erected to Trajan: composed of huge stones and thus inscribed.

Imp. Caesari. Divi. Nervae. F. Nevae. Trajano. Optimo. Aug. Germanic. Daci. Co. Pont. Max. Tr. Pot. XIX. Imp. IX. Cos. VI. PP. providentissi mo. Principi. Senatus. P. Q. R. Quòd. accessum. Italiae. hoc. etiam. addito. ex. pecunia. sua. portu. tutiorem. navigantibus reddiderit.

On the right side is inscribed, Plotinae. Aug. Conjug. Aug. and on the left side Divae. Marcianae. So∣rori. Aug.

On the top of this Arch formerly stood a Statua equestris of Trajan, which is now taken down and

set over the gate of the Merchants Hall or Exchange, which was [2.] the second remarkable. [3.] The Theatre for Comedies. [4.] The Domo or Church of S. Cyriacus. [5.] The Cittadel. [6.] The shell-fish called Pholades in Latine, because they live in holes within a soft kind of stone, or hard clay, which being exposed to the air in process of time becomes a perfect stone for hardness. The Italians call these stones Balle di Sasso, and the fish Ballare or Dattylide mare. They find the stones (as they told us) but at Sea in great plenty, and taking them up being them into the harbour where they keep them. We had a dish of them drest which were no unpleasant meat, inferiour for tast to no shell fish except an oy∣ster.

We travelled along the Sea-coast 20 miles to Sini∣gaglia,* 3.2 anciently Sena Gallica, a handsome little city well walled about and fortified. Heer is a small har∣bour for boats and barges. From Sinigaglia we still followed the Sea-shore to Fano, 15 miles distant; by the way,* 3.3 passing over two long bridges. Fano, an∣ciently Fanum Fortunae, is a much larger city then I had imagined, well walled and fortified. There is an old triumphal Arch erected to Augustus, which because it had been somewhat broken and defaced in the wars with Malatesta, they have in the wall by set a model of it as it was when entire, whereon is inscribed, Effigies arcûs ab Augusto erecti, posteáque ex parie diruti bello Pii II. contra Fanenses; Anno MCCCCLXIII.

DIVO AUGUSTO PIO CONSTANTINO PATRI DOMINOPUM.

IMP. CAES. DIVI F. AUGUSTUS PONTI∣FEX MAXIMUS COS. XIII TRIBUNITIA POTEST XXXI IMP. XXVI PATER PA∣TRIAE MURUM DEDIT.

CURANTE L. TURCIO SECUNDO APRO∣NIANI PRAEF. URB. FIL. ASTERIO V. C. CORR. FLAM. ET PICENI.

Heer we saw the ancient temple of Fortuno now the Augustine Freres Church: And the brass statue of Fortune which was adored, taken out thence, now standing in the palace. In this City is a Senate of 70 Gentlemen changed every third or fourth year, who out of their own number elect every two months 2 Priors and a Gonfalonier, but the Gover∣nour or Monsignor placed heer by the Pope is the Dominus fac totum. Malatesta tyrant of Rimini (as they call him) seized also upon this place, but was driven out by Pope Pius II, assisted by the Duke of Vrbin, Carignano of Ancona and one Cassaro. These two Gentlemen had each of them a ladder for his arms, the one red, and the other white. The city out of gratitude took these two ladders for their Arms, leaving their former, which was a gate or Arch with this motto under it, In hac porta stat hîc Leo fortis. This City is by some esteemed one of the best situated in Italy.

We still held along the shore till we came to Pesa∣ro,* 3.4 anciently Pisaurum, 7 miles. This is a very elegant and pleasant City, having a handsom piazza, en∣compassed with fair buildings; therein stand many ancient stones with inscriptions. We passed through a long well-built street, and had a prospect of the Cupo∣la of the Domo. The haven is almost choaked up. It is walled about and fortified wi••h bastions and a castle. We saw this town only in transitu, but it merited a little demurr. From hence we crossed the Countrey to a village called Catolica 10 miles. We left Gradara on our left hand but came not in sight of it. From Catolica we rode along the Sea-shore for the most part till we came within 2 or 3 miles of Rimini, and then left the shore and took the Via Flaminia. From

Catolica to Rimini they reckon 15 miles, yet may Ri∣mini easily be seen from thence.* 3.5 Rimini is a pretty proper City, having streight streets like Pesaro and Fano, yet are the buildings but low. Within the walls of this town we passed under a high stone-arch erected to Tiberius (Schottus saith Augustus) Caesar, but the inscription was somewhat defaced. In the piazza we viewed the stone on which J. Caesar is said to have stood when he made a Speech to his Souldi∣ers, animating them to accompany him to Rome and invade the Cities liberty. On it are these modern in∣scriptions,

C. Caesar Dict. Rubicone superato civili bell. commilit. suos hîc in foro Ar. adlocut.

Suggestum hunc vetustate collapsum Coss. Ariminen∣sium Novembris & Decembr. MDV. Restit.

In another Piazza we saw a brass statue of Paulus V. Being Carneval time we found the Gentlemen heer tilting. They ran not at one another but at a Puppet or man of straw, Bamboccio they call it.

We made a digression to S. Marino,* 3.6 a little town standing on the top of a very high hill, some 10 miles or more distant from Rimini. This place hath maintained it self in the condition of a free State or Commonwealth, as the Inhabitants boast, for above 1000 years, but its well if half so long. The territory of this Republic is but one mountain about 3 miles in length, and some 9 or ten miles round. In this small territory they have 4 Castelli or villages, viz. Serravalle, Fietano, Monte Giardino, and Fiorentino: 8 corn mills upon the little river Canova, which bounds this territory towards the North, and a powder-mills: the number of souls is about 4000 or 5000, of Souldiers or fighting men 1500. The Arms of this Republic are 3 towers upon a moun∣tain, and under it this Motto, Libertas perpetua.

The Borgho of S. Marin stands at the foot of the hill upon which the town is built, and is like some of our North-Wales towns. In this Borgh•• weekly on Wednesdays is held a market, where are bought and sold a great number of Swine, especially in Carne∣val time, 3, 4, or 5 thousand on a market-day. The reason of this great concourse to buy and sell heer is because they pay so little toll, viz. about six pence for a drove be they more or less. From the Borgho up to the town are two ascents, the one more easie and winding about to the furthermost gate, by which coaches may make a shift to get up, the other steep to the nearer gate. On one side the town is walled about, on the other side it needs it not, for it stands on the brow of a precipitious rock of a very great height, whereon they have placed 3 towers in a row. On the side where the wall goes the hill is very steep and almost impossible to climb but by the made ways. There is no hill near it that can any way offend it, and those that are next far lower than that whereon the town is built. The streets of the town are nar∣row, and the houses but mean. Heer live about 60 Jews. Two cloysters they have within the walls, one of discalceate Franciscans or Succolanti, the other of Nuns of the Order of Santa Clara; with∣out the walls in the Borgho is a Monastery of Capu∣cines, and about a mile from the town a fair Con∣vent of the Servitae. They have 25 small pieces or Drakes and 2 Culverines. This place is a Bishops Sea and the Bishop of it is Bishop also of S. Leo, Monte Feltre, and La Penna. This Republic is sur∣rounded by the territory of the Pope; they stamp no money; they have neither friendship nor enmi∣ty with any of the States or Princes of Italy; and in the several wars of Italy they have enjoyed peace. On occasion they send Embassadours to the neigh∣bouring Princes and States. At Rome they have their Protector, who at present is Cardinal Carlo Barbe∣rini,

to whom they sometimes send presents, viz. 100 little Cheeses or a Butt of Muscatella. They ac∣knowledge no Superior under God, but have abso∣lute power in civil and criminal causes. If a person banished from other places retires hither, they some∣timet give him protection, but it is done by the ma∣jor vote of the Council. If one man kill another, though in his own defence, he is sentenced by the Commissary or Judge to pay 100 Scudi, but he pe∣titioning the Council, they usually bring it down to 25. If one murthers another and flies, he is banish∣ed for ever and all his goods confiscate. This Repub∣lic maintains a Physician and a Surgeon at the pub∣lic charge. The Muscatella's of this place are much esteemed, and the Gentry heerabout in Summer∣time come ordinarily hither to drink them, and en∣joy the fresco. Cows they have none, but sheep and goats good store; of whose milk they make little cheeses that eat well. From the hill we had a pro∣spect of Monte Leone, a strong fortress formerly be∣longing to this Republic, but taken from them by the Duke of Vrbin. They have 4 great Fairs every year, the chiefest of all is on S. Bartholomew's day, at which time there is a general muster of all their Forces. At these Fairs there is great abundance of young cattel sold. Many veals driven as far as Flo∣rence. These fairs and markets disgust the neighbour∣ing Princes, as being a great diminution of their tolls.

The Government of S. Marino is by a Council of 45, which they call Corpo di Prencipe. Of these 15 are Gentlemen (for there are about 20 families of Gentlemen in this State) 15 Artisans or tradesmen and 15 farmers or count reymen. They continue for their lives, and when one dies another is chosen by two third parts of the votes, when a Gentleman a Gentleman, and so of the rest. These Counsellors chuse out of their own number from 6 months to

6 months •• Capitanie, (which have the like power as ••••nsuls, or Maior, with us) after this manner. When the old Captains go out of office they nomi∣nate 12; the names of these are written in 6 scrolls of Paper, viz. two names in a scroll. These scrolls are put into a hat or box, and a boy puts in his hand and draws out 3. These 3 the elder Captain takes and carries to the Church of the Sacrament, and Te Deum being sung, a Priest puts the 3 scrolls into a hat, and a young child puts in his hand and draws out one, and they whose names are therein written are Capitanei for the next 6 months. These Capitanei cannot be eleced again for two years fol∣lowing. Besides, the Great Council elect out of themselves by major vote a lesser Council of 12, viz. 4 out of each order. And to this Council civil and criminal causes and quarrels of right and wrong are referred. This Commonwealth hath a Commissary or Judge, who must be a Doctor of Law, and always a foreigner. He is elected by the Council and conti∣tinues 18 months. His stipend is ten crowns the month. His sentence is confirmed, or may be re∣pealed or mitigated by the Council. The Chancel∣lor is elected in like manner. He is a notary and his allowance is 60 scudi or crowns per annum. They have also a Captain of the Militia, who continues in office as long as the Council pleases. But enough and more then needs will most Readers think of this petty Commonwealth; concerning which I should not have been so large, but that no body that I know of before me hath made any particular description of its State and Government, as accounting it not worth their while to enquire into it, or their pains to set it down.

We travelled from Rimini to Ravenna. 3. We pas∣sed the famous bridge over the river Rimino, begun by Augustus and finished by Tiberius. The people say that the stones are joyned together without any ce∣ment.

Indeed the sides or walls of it are of vast stones, each as high as the border and or breadth proportionable, immediately contiguous without any morter or cement between that I could discern. There is upon it an inscription in large letters signi∣fying when and by whom it was built. At 15 miles distance from Rimini we passed through a little town called Cesenatic••; then Cervia about 5 miles further,* 3.7 a place enveroned with fens. It is a Bisho••s Sea and therefore hath the title of a City, yet is it ••••t a mean and pitiful town. All the way between Cervia and Ravenna till we came withn 2 or 3 miles of the town, we had a wood of Pine-trees on our right hand called Pigneda, bearing fruit enough (as Schot∣tus saith) to serve all Italy.

Ravenna stands between two rivers [Bedesis and Montone] one running on one side,* 3.8 and the other on the other. It is a large town but ragged and not well built, the houses are all very low. It hath 5 gates, an ole castle of brick; 3 very fair Covents, one called the Classe, belonging to the Monachi Clas∣senses, the Church whereof is dedicated to S. Ro∣mualdo. A second called the Porto, because it is de∣dicated to S. Maria Portuenses. It belongs to the Ca∣nonici reguulares Lateranenses. A third of Benedictine Monks dedicated to S. Vitale. The Church of this Covent is a double octagon, the one concentrical to and included in the other, built as they told us by Justinian. The Monks shew'd us heer 2 marble pil∣lars, for which they said the Venetians offered them their weight in silver; but we have seen the like elsewhere, viz. in the Library at Zurich, and at Verona in our Ladies Chappel in the Garden of Seig∣nior Horatio Giusti. Their generation at first was of a mass or heap of small flints and pebbles united in∣to one body by a cement petrified as hard as them∣selves and capable of politure. Probably this cement was separated by degrees from a fluid wherein these

stones lay. To these Monks belongs the Rotonda, a little round Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, about ¼ of a mile without the walls: the entire roof whereof is of one single stone, notwithstand∣ing that the Diameter of the Church is 14 of my ordinary paces, which are near so many yards. In the midst of this stone is a round hole to let in the light. Upon the top of it formerly stood a porphyry monument of Theodoricus a Gotthick King who is supposed to have built it. This monument is now taken down and set in the wall of the Covent of the Succolanti, by the way-side with this inscription, Vas hoc Porphyriacum ol. Theodorici Gottor. imp. cineres in Rotundae apice recondens, huc Petro Donato Caesio Narnien. praesule favente translatum ad perennem me∣moriam Sapientes Reip. Rav. PP. C. MDLXIII.

The Monastery of the Succolanti is one of the fairest we have seen belonging to that order, and the Church dedicated to S. Apollinaris deserves no∣tice taking, as well for the double row of marble pillars brought from Constantinople by Theodoricus, as for the ancient figures of Mosaic work in the walls. In the Domo we noted the figures of the Arch∣bishops of Ravenna in Mosaic work. Eleven of them had a Dove standing upon their heads, which they say were chosen by a Dove alighting and sitting upon their heads, the legend whereof may be seen more at large in Schottus. Near the Franciscans Cloyster is the monument of Dante the famous Poet, which is an arch erected to his memory by Bernardus Bembus the Venetian Podestà in Ravenna; under which is his effigies, and two inscriptions in Latine verse,

I.

Exiguâ tumuli Dantes hîc sorte jacebas, Squallenti nulli cognite penè situ; At nunc marmoreo subnixus conderis arcu, Omnibus & cultu splendidiore nites. Nimirum Bembus musis incensus Etruscis Hoc tibi quem inprimis hae coluere dedit.

II.

Jura monarchiae, superos, Phlegetonta lacúsque Lustrando cecini voluerunt fata quousque: Sed quia pars c••ssit melioribus hospita castris, Auctorémque suum petiit felicior astris, Hîc claudor Dantes patriis extorris ab oris, Quem genuit parvi Florentia mater amoris.

These verses are said to have been made by Dante himself, sed Musis parùm faventibus, and if he had not composed better in Italian he had not deserved the reputation of so great a Poet. This City may boast of its antiquity and what it hath been, not what it is, and yet the Cardinal Legate Governour of Romandiola usually resides heer. It is very ill ser∣ved with fish, notwithstanding it is so near the Sea: there's scarce a good Inn in Town, it lying out of the way of travellers, and strangers, and being no through∣fare. What was true of old is true still heer; Its har∣der to get good water than good wine, Sit cisternae mihi quam vinea malo Ravennae, the water being all brackish: Neither yet was the wine we met withal any of the best. I wonder this City should not be more populous and rich; the Countrey on the Northside all along to Faenza, seeming to be fat and fertile land, and being planted after the manner of Lombardy. It lies indeed very low, yet I believe now adays is never overflown.

We observed in this journey from Rome to Venice a great difference between the temperature of the air on this side and on the other side the Appennine

mountains, on the other side it being very tempe∣rate and warm, but on this side as cold and raw as it is at any time in winter with us, or indeed can well be in open weather; and that this cold did not proceed from a general change of weather since our coming on this side we are well assured; for we heard of no such change, and we found snow lying heer in the low grounds in many places, which on the other side was all melted and gone even upon the hills be∣fore our coming over. The reason of this is obvious, because this ridge of hills being higher than the low∣er region of the air, or place where the Sun-beams are reflected, hinders the commixture of the warm Southerly and Western air with the cold Northerly and Eastern, but especially stopping on one hand the South and West winds which else would drive the temperate air and tepid vapours into these parts; and on the other hand the cold Northern and Eastern blasts, which else would temper and much abate the warmth of those beyond the mountains. Hence I do not think incredible nor much wonder at what is related by some Travellers of a mountain in the East-Indies, on the one side whereof it is Summer when on the other it is Winter.

We left Ravenna and rode along the bank of the River Montone till we came within 4 or 5 miles of Faenza.* 4.1 The Countrey on each side this river was much like to Lombardy. The river ran very swiftly notwithstanding to the eye the Countrey seemed to be an exact level. From Ravenna to Faenza we had 20 long miles.

Faenza is a pretty little City,* 4.2 encompassed with a strong brick wall, at present neglected and out of repair; famous for earthen ware made heer, esteemed the best in Italy. Before we entred the Town we passed a little Suburb, and then the bridge, in the midst of which stands a tower. Upon S. Thomas his day yearly all the Gentlemen of Faenza meet and

chuse Magistrates for all the year, viz. 8 Antiani or Senators and a Chief who is called Prior for every month, so that for every year there are 12 several Senates.

From Faenza we travelled on to Imola 10 miles.* 4.3 The way was very streight, I suppose part of the Via Aemilia. About the midway between Faenza and Imola we passed through a little walled Town called Castel Bolognese. Half a mile short of Imola we ferried over the river Senio.

Imola anciently Forum Cornelii is a lesser Town then Faenza, hath a fair square piazza with a cloy∣ster or Portico on one side it.

We travelled to Bologna upon the Via Aemilia.* 4.4 In this side of Italy they have a custom to boil their wines to make them keep better. The boil'd wine, which they call Vin Cotto, seemed to us much stronger than the wine unboil'd, which they call Vin Crudo.

We took the Florentine Procaccios boat to Venice.* 4.5 Passing through 9 Sostegni we came to Mal Albergo, where we shifted our boat going down from a higher to a lower channel, which brought us to Ferrara, which they reckon to be 45 miles distant from Bo∣logna. From Ferrara we were towed by a horse up a streight artificial channel to a place called Ponte,* 4.6 where we changed our boat again, coming into the river Po: In the Po we were rowed down stream about 27 miles to Corbola; where we shifted our boat the fourth time, not for any necessity of the place as be∣fore, but because we then came into the Venetian territory and so must take a Venetian boat. We went but 2 or 3 miles further down the Po, and then struck into a channel on our left hand, passing a sluce to a little Town called Loreo, and proceeding on about 15 miles further we passed near to Chioza a large Town built among the lagune,* 4.7 and Pelestri∣na a village standing upon the Argine or Lido, we

entred into the lagune at the haven of Malamocco, and soon after arrived at Venice Feb. 9. of which City we have already written as much as suffices for our purpose.

We began our journey from Venice to Geneva by the way of Rhoetia and Swizzerland.* 4.8 Passing by boat to Mestre 7 miles, and from Mestre to Treviso by coach 12 miles. At Treviso we took horses and a Vitturine for Trent:* 4.9 in which journey we spent two days and an half, it being almost 80 miles riding. The first day we passed through C. Franco 12 miles,* 4.10 and then over a fair champian Countrey to Bassano, a very handsome and pleasant walled Town upon the river Brenta, over which there is a good bridge of wood. This Town drives a great trade of weaving silks.

As soon as we were past Bassano we entred among the mountains, going up beside the river Brenta 14 miles, and lodged at Pont Sigismund. The second day we rode still up beside the river, and about 2 miles from Ponte we passed through a gate where we paid Datii to the Arch-Duke of Inspruck. At this pass is hewn out of the rock a box or little castle cal∣led Ca••olo a great height above the road,* 4.11 to which there is no avenue at all, but both the Souldiers that keep it and all their provisions must be drawn up by rope and pully, only there is a fountain of fresh wa∣ter in it. Notwithstanding that this fortress belongs to the Arch-Duke, yet the Venetian territory extends 4 or 5 miles further to a place called Sixteen miles riding brought us to a pretty little Town called Bergo,* 4.12 and 13 miles more to Perzine a rich and populous Borgh, 5 miles short of Trent. Near this Town is a good valley, but at our being there the snow was not melted. Between Bassano. and Ponte the Countrey on the left hand the river Brenta as we went up belongs to the Sette Commune, and on the right hand to Bassano; Upon the river were seve∣ral saw-mills, and a great quantity of timber floted

down the stream to Padua. As soon as we got among the mountains we every where found stoves in the houses instead of Chimneys. The plants we observed in this journey were Erica Pannonica 4. Clus. now in flower upon the sides of the mountains and the Rocks plentifully: Fumaria bulbosa; Leucoium bul∣bosum vulgare C. B. & Leuc. bulbosum minus triphyl∣lon J. B.

We got early to Trent,* 4.13 a pretty little City, seated upon the river Athesis at the foot of the mountains, which do encompass it almost round, save the val∣ley where the river runs. The inhabitants speak al∣together Italian; and the Venetian money passes cur∣rent among them, notwithstanding their present Prince is Arch-Duke of Inspruck. Beside the North door of the Domo we found the monument of Mat∣thiolus having on it these inscriptions.

Above,

Herbarum vires nec rectiùs edidit alter, Nec mage te clarus hac super arte fuit. Si mens ut corpus depingi posset, imago Vna Dioscordis Matthiolique foret.

Under his Effigies this,

D. O. M.

Petro Andreae Matthiolo Senensi III Caesarum Ferdinandi, Maximiliani & Rudolphi Consiliario Et Archiatro, Et Hieronymae Comitissae ex a••tiqua & illustri Castellanorum seu Comitum Varmi familia, Ferdinandus Matthiolus Caesari Ferdinando Aus∣triae Archiduci, & Joanni Georgio Saxoniae Elec∣tori à consiliis & cubiculis medicus; Apostolica & Imperiali auctoritatibus Sacri Pala tii Lateranen. Aulaeque Caesareae comes, Et armatae militiae eques auratus, Vna cùm Maximiliano fratre

Anniversariis precibus institutis Parentibus bene merentissimis PP. Ann. MDCXVII. Vixit ille an. LXXVII. Ann. Christi MDLXXVII. obiit Tridenti. Vixit illa an. XXXII. Obiit ibidem An. Dom. MDLXIX.

Below this Distich,

Saxa quidem absumit tempus, sed tempore nunquam Interitura tua est gloria Matthiole.

On the front of the Quire is this following in∣scription concerning the Council held in this City.

Sacrosanctum postremum Oecumenicum generale Concilium fuit in hac celeberrima civitate celebra∣tum; & quidem sub Papa Paulo III, Anno MDXLV, XIII Decembris pro felice inchoatione fuit facta Processio generalis per totam Urbem, ab Ecclesia Sanctissimae Trinitatis ad hanc Ecclesiam Cathedra∣lem; quâ finitâ primus Cardinalis Praesidens, qui postea fuit Papa Julius III, [prout etiam alter Card. Praesidens fuit Papa Marcellus II nominatus] in hoc loco eminentiore, tunc magis amplo, ad celebran∣dum Concilium & Sessiones faciendas deputato, ad altare S. & Gloriosissimi martyris Vigilii hujus Ec∣clesiae patroni celebravit missam de Spiritu S. Ac re∣liquis caeremoniis peractis fuerunt sub D. Paulo III celebratae octo publicae Sessiones cum decretis, & aliae tres ob vastam pestem in hac Urbe grassantem Bononiae, ubi nihil fuit decretum, Anno MDXLVII. Postea cessante peste & bellis fuit reductum hoc Con∣cilium, & in hoc eodem loco fuerunt sub Papa Julio III celebratae aliae publicae sex Sessiones cum Decretis Annis 1551, 1552, quibus interfuerunt tres Seren is∣simi Principes Ecclesiastici, S. R. I. Electores Ar∣chiepiscopi, Moguntinus, Trevirensis, Coloniensis, 1° Die Septemb. 1551. hanc Urbem ingressi; prout

etiam Serenissimus Elector Brandenburgensis duos oratores huc ablegavit. Demum sub Papa Pio IV Anno 1561 & 1563 fuerunt celebratae ultimae no∣vem publicae Sessiones cum Decretis in Ecclesia S. Mariae majoris hujus urbis, istius Ecclesiae Reveren∣dissimo Capitulo incorporata, sicuti etiam Ecclesia S. Petri. Et nihilominus ad pedes Sanctissimi Crucifixi tum in hoc loco existentis & nunc aliò translati pro Decretorum corroboratione scmper fuerunt publica∣ta omnia dicti Concilii Decreta. Interfuerunt sub dictis summis Pontificibus celebrationi Cardinales Legati 13, inter quos Christophorus Madrucius; non Legati 4, inter quos Ludovicus Madrucius: Oratores Principum totius Europae 29: Patriarchae 3: Ar∣chiepiscopi 33: inter quos Archiepiscopus Rossani∣ensis, qui postea fuit Vrbanus 7 nominatus: Epis∣copi 233: Abbates 18: Generales ordinum 12: Theologiae Doctores 148; Procuratores 18: Of∣ficiales Concilii 3: Cantores 9: Natarii 4: Cur∣sores Papae 2.

Sacrosancto Spiritui S. omnium Conciliorum di∣rectori sacratissima Die Pentecostes, Anno 1639. di∣catum.

Heer are no remarkable Churches or other build∣ings. The Bishop is both spiritual and temporal Prince. Under him there is a Governour who yet can do nothing without the Council, which consists of 8 persons, viz. The Podestà or Mayor of the Ci∣ty; the Capitaneo, two Canons of the Church and 4 Gentlemen or Citizens. All these are nominated and appointed by the Bishop and continue in power during life modò bene se gesserint. There be 14 Ca∣nons bel onging to the Cathedral all Noblemen, and by these the Bishop is chosen. The Bishops name then was Sigismundus E. of Tirol, commonly called Arch-Duke of Inspruck.

Of the natural Abilities, Temper and In∣clinations, Manners and Customs, Vir∣tues and Vices of the Italians.

THE Italians are, by the general confession of all that write of them, ingenious, apprehen∣sive of any thing and quick-witted.* 5.1 Barclay (who is not too favourable to them in the Character he gives of them) saith, they have animum rerum om∣nium capacem; and again that there is nothing so difficult ad quod Italici acuminis praestantia non tolla∣tur.

They are patient and assiduous in any thing they set about or desire to learn, never giving over till they master it and attain the perfection of it.

They are a still, quiet people, as being naturally melancholy; of a middle temper between the fa∣stuous gravity of the Spaniard and unquiet levity of the French, agreeing very well with the English, as the Scots are observed to do with the French, and Spaniards with the Irish.

They are very faithful and loving to their friends, mindful of a courtesie received, and if it lies in their way or power for one good turn will do you two. This I had from a very intelligent person who hath lived and conversed long enough among them to know them throughly. Barclay himself confesseth, that where they do truly love omnia discrimina ha∣bent infra tam humani foederis sanctitatem. Understand it of the better so••t; for Shopkeepers and Trades∣men are false and fraudulent enough; and Inn-keep∣ers, Carriers, Watermen and Porters as in other pla∣ces horribly exacting if you make not an explicit

bargain with them beforehand: insomuch that in many places the State hath thought it necessary by public Bando and decree to determine how much Inn-keepers shall receive of travellers for their dinner and for their supper and lodging.

They are not easily provoked, but will bear long with one another; and more with strangers than their own Countreymen. They are also very careful to avoid all occasions of quarrel; not to say or do any thing that may offend any person, especially not to abuse any one by jesting or drollery; which they do not like nor can easily bear.

No people in Europe are more scrupulous and ex∣act in observing all the punctilio's of civility and good breeding (bella creanza they call it) only methinks the Epithets they bestow upon mean persons are somewhat extravagant, not to say ridiculous, as when they stile a mechanic or common tradesman Signor molto magnifico and the like.

When they are in company together they do not only give every man his turn of speaking, but also attend till he hath done, accounting it a piece of very ill breeding to interrupt any man in his dis∣course, as hating to be interrupted themselves. Con∣trary to the manner of the French and Dutch, who make no scruple of interrupting one another, and sometimes talk all together. As careful are they, not to whisper privately one to another when in compa∣ny, or to talk in an unknown language which all the company understands not. They do also shew their civility to strangers in not so much as asking them what Religion they are of, avoiding all unnecessary disputes about that subject, which are apt to engen∣der quarrels: which thing we could not but take no∣tice of, because in France you shall searce exchange three words with any man, before he ask you that question.

It is not easie for a stranger to get acquaintance and

familiarity with the Italians, they not much delight∣ing to converse with strangers, as not knowing their humours and customs. Yet is their conversation when gotten pleasant and agreeable, their discourse profit∣able and carriage obliging.

Most of them, even of the ordinary sort of peo∣ple, will discourse intelligently about Politic affairs and the government and interest of their own Coun∣trey; being much addicted to and delighted in Po∣litic studies and discourses.

Most of them are very covetous of liberty, espe∣cially such Cities as have been formerly Common-wealths, discourses or treatises of that subject ma∣king deep impressions on their minds: So that in some places not only books but also discourses about former revolutions are prohibited. Barclay also saith, that they are gloriosae libertatis cupidi, cujus adhuc imaginem vident. Hence the Princes of Italy build store of Castles and cittadels in their territories, not so much to defend themselves against their enemies as to bridle their Subjects, and secure themselves against tumults and insurrections. A strange thing it is, that of all the people of Italy the Neapolitans, who never tasted the sweetness of liberty, nor men∣ded their condition by their commotions, but always (as we say) leapt out of the frying-pan into the fire, should be the most tumultuous and given to rebel against their Princes. Leti tells us of one of those petty subordinate Princes in this Kingdom of Naples called Thomaso Ferrari, who governed his subjects not like vassals, but with that sweetness and gen∣tleness, as if they had been his own children; yet some of these fellows taking arms come into their Princes presence, and say to him, Sir Prince, we are come to drive you out of your Palace and burn all your moveables. Why (answers the Prince) can you find fault with my government? Are you aggrieved in any thing and it shall be redressed: No (replied they)

but because we understand that many of our Countrey∣men have revolted from their Lords, we also to shew that we love revolutions, are resolved to rebel against you.

The Italians are greatly delighted in Pictures, statues and music from the highest to the lowest of them, and so intemperately fond of these things that they will give any rate for a choice picture or statue. Though all of them cannot paint or play on the music, yet do they all affect skill and judgment in both: And this knowledge is enough to deno∣minate a man a virtuoso. Many of them are also cu∣rious in collecting ancient coyns and medals.

They are great admirers of their own language, and so wholly given to cultivate, polish and enrich that, that they do in a great measure neglect the La∣tine, few of them now adays speaking or writing well therein; but mingling so many Italian idio∣tisms with it, that you have much ado to understand what they speak or write. As for the Greek, few or none have any tolerable skill in it, the study thereof being generally neglected and laid aside.

They are very temperate in their diet, eating a great deal of sallet and but little flesh. Their wine they drink well diluted with water, and seldom to any excess. We saw only one Italian drunk by the space of a year and half that we sojourned in Italy. Whe∣ther it be that in hot Countreys men have not so good stomachs as in cold; or whether meat as be∣ing better concocted nourishes more there; or that the Italians are out of principle, temper or custom more sober and temperate than other nations. Their herbs seemed to me more savory and better concocted than ours. Their water also was not so crude. But for flesh ours in my judgment much excels theirs, being much more succulent and sapid. Yet in Rome have I eaten beef not inferiour to ours: but I suppose it might be of German oxen; of which (as we were informed) there are many driven thither: and for sucking veal

the Romans (as we have already noted) think theirs preferrable to any in the world.

The Italians, especially those of inferiour quali∣ty, are in all things very sparing and frugal: Whe∣ther it be because they are so educated and accustom∣ed, or because the gabels and taxes which they pay to their governours are so great that they cannot af∣ford to spend much on themselves; or because na∣turally loving their case they had rather live nearly then take much pains.

The Nobility and great persons chuse rather to spend their revenues in building fair palaces and adorning them with Pictures and statues, in making stately and spacious orachards, gardens and walks, in keeping coaches and horses and a great retinue of servants and staffiers, than in keeping great houses and plentiful tables; giving board-wages to their servants and attendants, which in my opinion is the better way of spending estates, these things finding poor people employment, so that the money comes to be distributed among them according to their in∣dustry; whereas the other way maintains in idle∣ness such persons for the most part as least deserve relief: those that are modest and deserving chusing rather (if possibly they can) to maintain themselves and their families by the labour of their hands, than hang about great houses for a meals meat. Besides that great house-keeping is very often, not to say al∣ways, the occasion of great disorder and intempe∣rance. Were I therefore Gods steward for a great estate (for such all rich men are or ought to be) I should think it more charity to employ poor people and give them mony for their work, than to distri∣bute my estate among them freely and suffer them to live in idleness, I mean such as are able to labour.

The inferiour Gentry affect to appear in public with as much splendour as they can, and will deny themselves many satisfactions at home that they may

be able to keep a coach, and therein make the tour à la mode about the streets of their City every even∣ing.

The Italians when they call, speak to, or of one another, use only the Christian name, as Signor Giacomo, Signor Giovanni, &c. unless it be for distin∣ctions sake, so that you may converse among them perchance some months before you hear any mans surname mentioned.

The Italian Gentry live for the most part in the Cities, whence it is that the Cities are so splendid and well built, so populous and rich; and the Countrey so poor and thinly inhabited. Yet are the Noblemens Palaces rather great and stately, than commodious for habitation. In many Cities the pa∣per windows (which are for the most part tatter'd and broken) disgrace the buildings, being unsuitable to their magnificence.

The houses are generally built of stone, thick walled and high rooft, which makes them warm in Winter and cool in Summer: but they contrive them rather for coolness than warmth, and therefore make the windows large to give them air enough.

Of the Gentry in Italy, especially in Venice, if there be many brothers of one house only one usual∣ly marries, and that the eldest if he pleases; if he be not disposed then any other, as they can agree among themselves. The rest do what they can to greaten him that is married, to uphold the Family. The brothers that marry not keep concubines or whores; which though it be sin, yet their Confes∣sors can easily absolve them of it.

In most of the Cities and Towns of Italy there are Academies or Societies of Virtuosi, who have at set times their meetings and exercises, which are for the most part prolusions of wit and Rhetoric, or discourses about moral subjects, curious questions and Problems, or Paradoxes, sometimes extempo∣rany,

sometimes premeditated. These have their head whom they call Prince, and a certain number of Academists, who are chosen by balloting, but they seldom refuse any that offer themselves to ele∣ction. Many of these Academies assume to them∣selves conceited or fanciful names, and take a sute∣able imprese or coat of arms; as for example the Academists of Bergamo call themselves Eccitati, and their imprese is the picture of the morning. In Man∣tua the Academists called Accesi have taken for their Emblem a Looking-glass reflecting the Sun-beams; those called Timidi a hare. As for the other Cities of Italy, in Rome there are 3 Academies, the Hu∣moristi, the Lyncei and the Fantastici: in Padua 3, the Ricoverati, Infiammati and Incogniti: in Bologna 3, Ardenti, Indomiti, and one innominate: in Venice 2, Discordanti and Gussoni: in Naples 2, Ardenti and Intronati: in Luca 2, Oscuri and Freddi: in Florence la Crusca: in Siena Intronati: in Genoa Addormen∣tati: in Vicenza Olympici: in Parma Innominati: in Pavia Affidati: in Milan Nascosti: in Ferrara Ele∣vati: in Rimini Adagiati: in Cesena Offuscati: in Ancona Caliginosi: in Fabriano Disuniti: in Perugia Insensati: in Viterbo Ostinati: in Brescia Occulti: in Faenza Philoponi: in Treviso Perseveranti: in Fer∣mo Raffrontati: in Verona Philarmonici: in Mace∣rata Catenati: in Alessandria Immobili: in Vrbin As∣sorditi.

Most of the Italians of any fashion wear black or dark coloured cloths, and for the fashion of them follow the French (but not too hastily) excepting those Countries which are subject to the King of Spain; which use the Spanish habit.

As for their vices, they are chiefly taxed for three.

1. Revenge; they thinking it an ignoble and un∣manly thing to put up or pass by any injury or af∣front. Many times also they dissemble or conceal their displeasure and hatred under a pretence of

friendship, that they may more easily revenge them∣selves of whom they hate by poisoning, assassinating or any other way; for nothing will satisfie them but the death of those who have injured them: and there be Bravo's and cut-throats ready to murther any man for a small piece of mony. Besides, which is worst of all, they are implacable, and by no means to be trusted when they say they pardon. Hence they have a Proverb among them, Amicitie reconciliate & menestre riscaldate non furono mai grate. The women also provoke their children to revenge the death of their fathers by shewing them the weapons where∣with they were murthered, or cloths dipt in their blood or the like, by which means feuds between families are maintained and entail'd from generati∣on to generation. These are the qualities for which we usually say, An English man Italianate is a De∣vil incarnate.

2. Lust, to which the inhabitants of hot Coun∣treys are by the temper of their bodies inclined. Hence it is that all Cities and great Towns do so swarm with Courtezans and Harlots; and to avoid worse evils the State is necessitated to give them pub∣lic toleration and protection. As for masculine venery and other works of darkness, I shall not charge the Italians with them, as not having sufficient ground so to do; and because (as Barclay saith) Haec scelera tenebris damnata & negari faciliùs à consciis possunt, & ab aemulis fingi.

3. Jealousie, which strangely possesses this peo∣ple; so that for every little suspicion they will shut up their wives in a chamber, and carry the key with them, not suffering them to stir abroad unless them∣selves accompany them. To salute an Italians wife with a kiss is a stabbing matter; and to call a man cornuto or Cuckold in good earnest is the greatest af∣front or disgrace you can put upon him. The mar∣ried women in Italy by this means have but bad

lives, being for the most part confined to their hou∣ses except when they go to Church, and then they have an old woman attending them: the doors of their houses shut up at dinner and supper; all visits and familiar discourses with men denied them; nei∣ther can they speak or smile without suspicion: one reason of this among others may be, because the husbands knowing themselves to be so dishonest and false to their wives, they presume that had they op∣portunity they would not be more true to them. And yet for all this guarding and circumspecti∣on are not the Italian Dames more uncorrupt than the matrons of other Nations, but find means to de∣ceive their husbands, and be dishonest in spight of jealousie.

To these I might add Swearing, which is so or∣dinary among all sorts, the Priests and Monks them∣selves scarce abstaining from oaths, that I believe they account it no sin.

It is a general custom all over Italy to sleep an hour or two after dinner in Summer time; so that from two of the clock till four in the afternoon you shall scarce see any body stirring about the streets of the Cities. Indeed if one sits still it is very hard to keep his eyes open at that time. Either this custom did not prevail when the School of Salerno wrote their Physic precepts, or that direction, Sit brevis ant nullus tibi somnus meridianus, was calculated for England, to whose King that Book was dedicated. And yet the Italian Physicians still advise people ei∣ther not to sleep at all after dinner, or if they must sleep, to strip off their cloths and go to bed, or on∣ly to take a nod in a chair sitting.

In many Cities of Italy are Hospitals where Pil∣grims and poor travellers are entertained, and have their diet and lodging for three days (if they have reason to stay so long) gratis, besides a piece of mo∣ny when they go away.

There are also Hospitals to receive exposed chil∣dren, if I may so term them; that is, any without exception that shall be brought and put in at a grate on purpose, whither upon ringing of a bell an Of∣ficer comes presently and receives the child, and asking the party that brought it, whether it hath been baptized? carries it to a nurse to give it suck; and there it is maintained till it be grown up. The place where it is put in is so strait as to admit only children new born or very young. This I look upon as a good institution in great Cities, taking away from women the temptation of murthering their new-born children, or destroying their conceptions in the womb, to hide their shame. I know what may be objected against it, viz. that it emboldens them to play the wantons, having so fair a way of concealing it: Sed ex malis minimum.

In Rome, Venice and some other Cities of Italy they have a way of exercising charity little used among us. Several Confraternities of well-disposed per∣sons raise sums of mony by a free contribution among themselves, which they bestow yearly in portions for the marrying of poor maids, which else might want husbands, and be tempted to dishonest practises to maintain themselves. This I look upon as well-plac'd alms and worthy the imitation; it be∣ing very convenient and in a manner necessary, that new-married people should have somewhat to fur∣nish their houses and begin the world with; and no less fitting, that young persons should be encouraged to marry, as well for multiplying of people, where∣in the strength of the Commonwealth chiefly con∣sists, as for the preventing those evils to which young and single persons are strongly tempted and inclined.

It is troublesome thing to travel with fire-arms in Italy, you being forc'd in most Cities to leave them at the gate with the Guard, who give you a

tally or token; and when you Leave the City you bring your tally and receive your arms. This is done to prevent assaults and murthers, which are so fre∣quent in many Cities of Italy. For this the G. Duke of Tuscany is much to be commended, there being no such muthers and outrages committed in any of the Cities under his dominion as in other places: so diliegent is he in searching out, and severe in pu∣nishing Bravo's, Cut-throats, Assassins and such kind of malefactors. As much might be said for the Pope in the City of Rome, but in other Cities in his Ter∣ritories there is killing enough.

When you depart from any City you must be sure to take a bill of health out of the Office that is kept every where for that purpose: without which you can hardly get to be admitted into another City, es∣pecially if it be in the Territory of another Prince or State. If any one comes from an infected or sus∣pected place he is forced to keep his Quarantain (as they call it) that is, be shut up in the Lazaretto or Pest-house 40 days before he be permitted to come into the City. So scrupulously careful are they to pre∣vent Contagion.

In Rome and other Cities of Italy we have often observed many labourers that wanted work standing in the market places to be hired; whither people that want help usually go and bargain with them. Which custom illustrates that Parable of our Saviour recorded in the beginning of the 20th. Chapter of S. Matthew's Gospel, wherein the housholder is said to go out about the third hour, and see others standing in the market-place, ver. 3. and in ver. 6. he is said to find others about the eleventh hour, and to say to them, why stand ye heer all the day idle; and ver. 7. they an∣swer, because no man hath hired us.

In Italy and other hot Countreys so soon as they have cut down their corn they thresh and winnow it usually, or at least a great part of it, on a floor

made in the open air, before they bring it into the house. Hence in the Scripture we read of threshing floors as open places without roof or cover. Such I suppose was that where Boaz winnowed barley, Ruth 3. 3. Neither is it any wonder that he should lie there all night: for at Aleppo and even in Malta in Summer time they set their beds upon the roofs of their houses, and sleep sub Dio, in the open air.

One custom we have in England, which (as far as I could observe) is no where used beyond the Seas, and that is for children to beg their Parents and Godfathers blessing upon the knee.

One custom which prevails generally in foreign Countreys is but little used in England, that is to sa∣lute those that sneez by vailing the bonnet, and pray∣ing God to bless, assist or defend them, &c.

There is a kind of sport or game much used this day by the Italians, called Gioco di mora, which seems to have been used by the ancients and called micare digitis. It is for the most part between two, who put out just at the same time each of them as many fingers as they please and also name each of them what number he thinks fit, and if either of them happens to be the number of the fingers which both of them together threw out, then he that names that number wins one.

Several sorts of Meats, Fruits, Sallets, &c. used in Italy, and other Observati∣ons about Diet.

1. IN Lombardy and other parts of Italy, Tartufale (as they call them) i. e. Tubera Terrae, a kind of subterraneous Mushrome, which our Herbarists

English Trubs, or after the French name Trufles, are accounted a choice dish, held by naturalists to be in∣centive of lust. The best of all are gotten in Sicily, and thence sent over into Malta, where they are sold dear. The way to get them is to turn swine into a field where they grow, who find them by the smell, and root them up out of the ground, and set one to follow the swine, and gather them up.

2. Snails boil'd and served up with oyl and pepper put into their shells are also accounted a good dish: I am sure they are sold dear at Venice and elsewhere, es∣pecially the great whitish or ash-coloured. shell-snails, which we had not then seen in England, but have since found plentifully upon the Downs near Darking in Surrey, whither (as we were informed by the ho∣nourable Charles Howard Esq) they were brought from beyond Seas by. Mr. Martin Lister hath found them on the banks of that hollow lane, leading from Puckeridge to Ware. These snails before winter stop up the mouth or aperture of their shells with a thick hard white paste like a good lute or plaister, and are kept all Winter in barrels or other vessels, and sold by the Poulter∣ers. The first place where we met them to be sold in the market was Vienna in Austria, where they imi∣tate the Italians as well in their diet as in the manner of their buildings.

3. Frogs are another Italian viand which we in England eat not. These they usually fry and serve up with oil. At Venice they eat only the loins and hind∣legs, as also at Florence, and that upon fish-days. In some places of Lombardy they eat their whole bo∣dies, and besides their frogs are of a larger size than ordinary. Their flesh shews white and lovely as they lie in the markets skin'd and ready prepared to be fried. Howbeit even there in Italy, Kircher in his book de Peste condemns them as an ambiguous and dangerous meat, and I think deservedly; wherefore

we do well having plenty of better food, wholly to abstain from them.

4. Land Tortoises are accounted with them a better meat than Sea-tortoises, and are commonly to be sold in the markets. They are eaten by those Orders of Freres whose rule obliges them to abstain from flesh, as Carthusians, Carmelites, &c.

5. They eat also many sorts of Shell-fish, which we either have not or meddle not with, as Purples, Periwinkles of several sorts, Patellae or Limpets, Sea-urchins, which last are to be found every day in the markets at Naples. They also eat the Sea-tortoi∣ses, of which the blood put into the stomach and boil'd is the best part.

6. Paste made into strings like pack-thread or thongs of whit-leather (which if greater they call Macaroni, if lesser Vermicelli) they cut in pieces and put in their pots as we do oat-meal to make their menestra or broth of, much esteemed by the common∣people. These boil'd and oil'd with a little cheese scraped upon them they eat as we do buttered wheat or rice. The making of these is a trade and mystery; and in every great town you shall see several shops of them.

7. They scrape or grate Cheese upon all their dishes even of flesh; accounting that it gives the meat a good rellish; which to those that are unaccu∣stomed makes it rather nauseous or loathsome.

8. Chesnuts roasted and the kernels served up with juyce of Lemon and sugar are much esteemed, and by some called the Pistachios of Italy. At Bono∣nia they grind them and make little cakes of the flower of them, which though eaten by the poor are no desirable dainty to a delicate palate. Roasted Chesnuts are a great part of the diet of the poor Pe∣sants in Italy; as we have elsewhere noted.

9. They eat all manner of small birds as well as the Germans, viz. Wrens, Stares, Titmise, Butcher-birds,

&c. and several great ones which we touch not in England, as Mag-pies, Jayes, Wood-peckers, Jack-daws, &c. nay we have frequently seen Kites and Hawks lying on the Peulterers stalls; as we have already noted in our description of Rome.

10. They use several herbs for Sallets, which are not yet, or have been but lately used in England: v. g. Selleri, which is nothing else but sweet smal∣lage, the young shoots whereof with a little of the head of the root cut off, they eat raw with oyl and pepper: In like manner they eat Fennel: Artichoke also they eat raw with the same sauce; [the same part of it that is eaten boild.] In Sicily at the high∣est village upon that side Mount Aetna that we as∣cended, they gave us to eat for a Sallet the stalks of a tall prickly thistle, bearing a yellow flower, I sup∣pose it was the Carduus Chrysanthemus Dod. which the rankness of the soil had caused to mount up to that stature. Besides in most of their sallets they mingle Rocket, (Rachetta they call it) which to me gives them an odious taste. Curl'd Endive blancht is much used beyond Seas; and for a raw sallet seemed to excel Lettuce it self: Besides it hath this advan∣tage that it may be kept all Winter.

11. Many fruits they eat which we either have not or eat not in England, v. g. Jujubes, sold by the Hucksters while they are yet green: L'azarole, the fruit of the Mespilus Aronia, of a pleasant acid taste: both fruit and tree exactly like the common Haw∣thorn, but bigger. Services or Sorbes the true, as big as little Pears; those that grow with us are the fruit of the Sorbus torminalis: Green figs both white and blew in great plenty; a most delicate fruit when fully ripe, comparable for the taste to the best mar∣malade, and which may be eaten freely without danger of surfeiting: The husks or cods of Carobs, called in Latine Siliqua dulcis, in Greek 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, the word used Luke 15. 16. and therefore by some sup∣posed

to be the husks the Prodigal is said to have de∣sired to fill his belly with. Indeed we thought them fitter meat from swine than men; for though they had a sweet taste, yet afterwards they troubled our stomachs and purged us: but they have not up∣on all men the like effect; for the Italians and Spa∣niards eat them ordinarily without any such trou∣ble: Love-apples: Mad-apples both raw and pick∣led: Water-melons; which they use to eat to cool and refresh them, and some Physicians allow sick persons to eat them in Feavers. They are almost as as big as Pompions, have a green rind and a reddish pulp with blackish seed when ripe. The Italians call these Cucumeri, whereas Cucumers they call Citrulli. Several sorts of Gourds, as Cucurbita lagenaria, and Cucurbita flexuosasive anguina; which eats very well boild in pottage: Cucumis anguinus, which is more esteemed and indeed better tasted then the Cucum∣ber. The common people both in Italy and Sicily eat green Chich-pease raw, as our people do com∣mon pease.

12. In their Desserts and second courses they com∣monly serve up pine-kernels, and in time of year green Almonds: also a kind of sweet-meat or Con∣fection made up of mustard and sugar, which they call Italian mustard.

13. To cool and refresh their wines they use ge∣nerally snow, where it may easily be had, else ice, which they keep in conservatories all Summer. With∣out snow they that are used to it do not willingly drink, no not in winter.

14. In the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily they make a sort of cheese which they call Caseo di cavallo, i. e. Horse-cheese, for what reason I could not learn. These cheeses they make up in several forms; some in the fashion of a blown bladder, some in the fa∣shion of a cylinder and some in other figures. They are neither fat nor strong, yet well-tasted and accep∣able

to such as have eaten of them a while. The pulp or body of them lies in flakes and hath as it were a grain one way like wood. They told us that they were made of Buffles milk, but we believed them not, because we observed not many Buffles in those Countries, where there is more of this cheese made than of other sorts.

15. In Italy and other hot Countries their meat is not only naturally more lean and dry then ours, but they roast it also till it be ready to fall from the bones, and there be little juyce left in it. Besides when they roast their meat they draw coals under the spit, and let the fat drop on them, the nidor where∣of perfumes the meat, but not our gust who are not used to it, and what they lose in dripping they save in fewel. Their roasting differs not much from our broiling or carbonadoing. I speak this of or∣dinary Inns and mean peoples houses, in great houses and Inns it is otherwise.

The Italians count not their hours as we do, from twelve to twelve, beginning at midday and mid∣night; but from one to four and twenty, beginning their count at Sun-set, which is a much more trouble∣some way; the setting of the Sun being a moveable point or term, and they being therefore necessitated to alter and new-set their clocks every day: whereas midday and midnight being fixt points, the clocks need no setting anew. As for Italy in general, though the Italians imagine it to be the best Coun∣trey in the world, and have a Proverb among them that Italy is the garden of the world: yet setting aside Lombardy, Campania and some few other places, the rest is mountainous and barren enough: the earth so parcht by the Sun-beams that it bears no grass, and (as Barclay faith) seldom yieldeth grain enough for three year successively to supply the ne∣cessities and uses of its inhabitants, whatever they may boast of the Itala gleba. The reason why the

Italians are so conceited of their own Countrey is, because they seldom travel abroad, and so see not the beauty and fertility of others.

I might have taken notice of the vast and incredi∣ble number of Religious houses there are in Italy. I have sometimes thought they might in all of both sexes amount to eight or ten thousand. Of these the Gentlemen make advantage. For such of their daugh∣ters as either they cannot get husbands for, or are not able to give portions to, suitable to their birth and quality, they can in one of these houses for a smal matter honourably dispose of and settle for their lives. The institution of such houses as these, whi∣ther young women of quality, who for want of sufficient fortunes or personal endowments cannot easily provide themselves suteable matches, might retire and find honourable provision, might per∣chance be tolerable, yea commendable, were they purged from all superstition the women not admit∣ted too young, and under no vow of perpetual cha∣stity, only to leave the house in case they married. But because of the danger of introducing Monkery, I think it more safe for a Christian State not to per∣mit any such foundations.

Bussles are a common beast in Italy, and they make use of them to draw their wains as we do of oxen: only because they are somewhat fierce and un∣ruly, they are forced to lead them by an iron-ring put in their noses, as our Bear-wards do their Bears.

For insects the most remarkable sorts which we want in England, are,

1. The Cicadae before mentioned.

2. The flying Glow-worms, which are there every where to be seen in Summer time. These fly∣ing or winged Glow-worms are nothing else but the males of the common creeping or unwinged Glow-worm Fabius Columna relates, that Carolus Vinti∣miglia of Palermo in Sicily having out of curiosity

kept many unwinged Glow-worms in a glass did put in among them a flying one, which presently in his sight did couple with them one by one after the manner of silk-worms; and that the next day the unwinged ones or females began to lay their eggs. That the males are also flying insects in England, though they do but rarely or not at all shine with us, we are assured by an eye-witness, who saw them in conjunction with the common shining unwinged Glow-worms. Heer by the way it may not be amiss to impart to the Reader a discovery made by a cer∣tain Gentleman and communicated to me by Francis Jessop Esq which is, that those reputed Meteors called in Latine Ignes fatui, and known in England by the conceited names of Jack with a Lanthorn, and Will with a Wisp, are nothing else but swarms of these flying Glow-worms. Which if true, we may give an easie account of those strange phaenomena of these supposed fires, viz. their suddain motion from place to place and leading travellers that follow them into bogs and precipices.

3. Scorpions, which in Italy sting not, or at least their stings are not venenose, as the learned Franciscus Redi affirms; though by experience he found the stinging of the African Scorpions to be mortal, or at least very noxious.

4. Tarantula's so called because found about Ta∣rentum, (though we have seen of them at Rome) which are nothing else but a large sort of Spiders; the biting whereof is esteemed venemous, and thought to put people into Phrenetic fits, enforcing them to dance to certain tunes of the Music, by which means they are cured, long and violent exer∣cise causing a great evacution by sweat. These fits they say do also yearly return at the same season the Patient was bitten. But Dr. Thomas Cornelius of Co∣senza before mentioned, a learned Physician and Virtuoso in Naples, diligently enquiring into this ge∣nerally

received and heertofore unquestioned story, that he might satisfie himself and others whether it were really true in experience.

5. Cimiei as the Italians call them, as the French Punaise. We English them Chinches or Wall-lice, which are very noisome and troublesome by their bitings in the night time, raising a great heat and redness in the skin. They harbour in the straw of the bolsters and mattresses and in the wood of the bedsteds, and therefore in some Nosocomia or Hospi∣tals for sick persons, as for example at Genua, the bedsteds are all of iron. This insect if it be crushed or bruised emits a most horrid and loathsome scent, so that those that are bitten by them are often in a doubt whether it be better to endure the trouble of their bitings, or kill them and suffer their most odi∣ous and abminable stink. We have of these insects in some places of England, but not many, neither are they troublesome to us.

We departed from Trent intending for Coira or Chur in the Grisons Countrey called in Latine curia Rhaetorum.* 5.2 We rode up the valley wherein the river Athesis runs, called Val Venosta, every 5 miles pas∣sing through a large village, and one handsome lit∣tle town called Burgo, and lodged at a small place called Brunsole.

We rode through Bolzan considerable Town and for bigness comparable to Trent,* 5.3 and 10 miles fur∣ther Maran a large Town, and lodged at a village called Raveland.

We passed through Latourn,* 5.4 Slach, Schlanders, Maltz, all villages and Towns of note, and last of all Cleurn a pretty great walled Town, and then struck up on the left hand among the mountains to a village called Tavers where we lodged.

We rode on through the snow to Monastero,* 5.5 where the Grisons Countrey begins, and S. Maria a small terra, and stopt at Gherf a village at the foot of the

high mountains. In this Countrey the people use a peculiar language of their own, which they call Romansch, that is Lingua Romana. It seems to be nearer Spanish than Italian, though distinct from both. Besides their own language they generally speak both Italian and Dutch: so that after we had lost Italian in the valleys we wondered to find it heer again among the hills. Their wines they bring all out of the Valtelline, from Tirano, about 2 days journey distant. The Countrey at this time was all over covered with snow, so that they are fain to keep their cattel within doors for six months! yet the people said that heerabouts the snow did not lie all Summer, no not on the tops of the highest moun∣tains. Heer we ob∣served that to draw their sleds over the snow, instead of Oxen they make use of Bulls, one Bull drawing a little sled. About Tavers we observed them sowing of dust upon the snow, which they told us was to make the snow melt sooner: I suppose it was rather for manure. They use stoves in all places, and good reason they have the Countrey being so cold, A great number of Chamois or Gemps [Rupicaprae] are taken all over these Countries upon the high hills, as, though the people had not told us, we must needs have gathered from the multitude of horns we saw stuck up in the houses where we lodg∣ed. Bears there are and Wolves among the high mountains but not many. The men generally wear ruffs and long bushy beards. All the people (as far as we had experience or could judge of them in the short stay we made among them) we found to be ho∣nest, hearty and civil, and the common sort very mannerly. Their houses are built of stone, and co∣vered with shingles of wood, the walls thick and the windows very small to fence against the cold. They have no strong holds or fortified places among them; nor will they permit any to be erected; having so much confidence in their own valour, that they

think they need no other defence: indeed their Countrey is such as one would think none of their neighbouring Princes should covet unless for the security of his own Territories.

We passed the Mountain of Bufalora in 7 or 8 hours.* 5.6 In the top of the Mountain, in the mid way between Cherf and Zernetz, is an Inn called Furno. From Zernetz we rode in the Valley of the higher Engadine through Zuotz a great terra, and two o∣ther Villages, and lodged at a little place called Ponte.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Ancient Temples.
• * 1.2

  The Pan∣theon or Rotonda.
• * 2.1

  This work is said to have cost above 200 thousand crowns.
• * 2.2

  Trium∣phal Ar∣ches.
• * 2.3

  Pillars.
• * 2.4

  Mauso∣laea.
• * 2.5

  Statues.
• * 2.6

  Ancient Medals and Enta∣glie.
• * 2.7

  Sepul∣chral urns.
• * 2.8

  Prima Parta.
• * 2.9

  25. Ariano.
• * 2.10

  Civita Castella∣na.
• * 2.11

  Capraro∣la.
• * 2.12

  Borghetto
• * 2.13

  Ponte Felice.
• * 2.14

  Maglia∣no.
• * 2.15

  Horta.
• * 2.16

  Vtricoli.
• * 2.17

  Narni.
• * 2.18

  26.
• * 2.19

  Spoleto.
• * 2.20

  Trevi.
• * 2.21

  Foligno.
• * 2.22

  Jan. 27.
• * 2.23

  28. Tolenti∣ne.
• * 2.24

  Macera∣ta.
• * 2.25

  Recana∣ti.
• * 2.26

  Loreto
• * 3.1

  30. Ancona.
• * 3.2

  31. Siniga∣glia.
• * 3.3

  Fano.
• * 3.4

  Feb. 1. 1664. Pesaro.
• * 3.5

  Rimini.
• * 3.6

  2. S. Mari∣no.
• * 3.7

  Cesena∣tico. Cervia.
• * 3.8

  Raven∣na
• * 4.1

  Feb. 5.
• * 4.2

  Faenza.
• * 4.3

  Imola.
• * 4.4

  6. Bologna.
• * 4.5

  7.
• * 4.6

  Ferrara.
• * 4.7

  Chiozza.
• * 4.8

  March 13.
• * 4.9

  Treviso.
• * 4.10

  Castel Franco. Bassano.
• * 4.11

  Ca••olo.
• * 4.12

  Perzine.
• * 4.13

  16. Trent
• * 5.1

  Icon. anim.
• * 5.2

  March 18.
• * 5.3

  19. Bolzan. Maran.
• * 5.4

  20.
• * 5.5

  21.
• * 5.6

  22.