A collection of curious travels & voyages in two tomes ... / by John Ray ...

THE FIRST PART OF Doctor Leonhart Rauwolff's Travels into the Eastern Countries: In which is chiefly Treated, how he got into Syria, and what strange things he there saw and obser∣ved.

CHAP. I.

Which way I went first of all, from Augspurg to Marseilles, and from thence Shipped over the Seas towards Tripoli of Syria, situ∣ated in Phoenicia.

I Having always had a natural Inclination almost from my Infancy, to Travel into Foreign Countries, but chiefly into the Eastern ones, which have been of old, celebrated for fertility, which were cultivated by the most ancient People, and whose Prin∣ces in former Ages, have been the most potent

Monarchs of the World; not only to observe their Lives, Manners, and Customs, but chief∣ly to gain a clear and distinct knowledge of those delicate Herbs, described by Theophrastus, Dio∣scorides, Avicennas, Serapio, &c. by viewing them in their proper and native Places, partly that I might more exactly describe them, especially the most strange and rare; partly also, to provoke the Apothecaries to endeavour to procure those that are necessary for them to have in their Shops: I strove always to put this my desire into execution, but was forced to defer, until in the Year of our Lord, 1573. I found an opportu∣nity by my honoured Brother-in-Law, Mr. Mel∣chior Manlick, Senior, which was very conveni∣ent. He received me presently, (having before a design to increase the number of them that were employed in his Trade) and fitted me out for my Voyage, that I might go with the first Company that should Travel for Marseilles, and then from thence further in one of their Ships to Tripoli, situated in that part of Syria which is called Phoenicia.

After that my honoured Friend Mr. Frederick Rentzen, of that same City was come to me, we set out the 18th of May,* 1.1 Anno 1573. from Aug∣spurg towards Lindaw, designing to go through Piedmont to Milan and Nissa, and so further: the same day we came to Mindelheim, a very plea∣sant Town with a princely Castle situated upon the Mindel, then belonging to the Baron of Frundsberg.

* 1.2The 19th at Noon we came to Memmingen, a very pleasant City of the Empire, and at Night to Leutkirch.

The 20th we rode thorough Wangen,* 1.3 another Imperial City, situated in Algaw, where they drove a very good Trade with fine Ticking, and Linnen Cloth; about Noon we arrived at Lin∣daw, an Imperial City situated in the Boden sea, where there is a very great Depository or Staple of all sorts of Commodities or Merchandises; some have called this the German Venice, because it is in like manner situated in Water, and hath also a great Trade. After Dinner we crossed the Lake towards Fuzach, a Village not far from Bregentz, towards the Rhine.* 1.4

The 21st about breakfast-time we came to Veldkirch, a very pleasant Town, situated upon the Yll, belonging now to the House of Austria, but formerly to the Counts of Montfort. By the way I saw several fine Plants, viz. Saxifraga Aurea, Caryophyllata Alpina, a fine sort of Bellis∣major, Crista galli with white Flowers, and Auricula Ursi with brown Flowers, &c. At Night we came to Mayenfeld, belonging to the Graw∣punters, upon the Rhine, which runs by the Town, and there runs into it a River called Camingen, which slides down between high Rocks, where the Famous warm Bath (from an adjacent Ab∣by) called Pfeffers, riseth, which may be num∣bered amongst the Wonderful Waters, in regard of its Admirable Operation, in strengthening lame and contracted Members, and hath this Property beyond other Baths, that it loseth its self from October till May, and then it cometh on again powerfully.

The 22d. we came at Night to Chur,* 1.5 a very Ancient City, (where also is a deposition of Goods, that are brought thither from Germany by Pack-horses over the Mountains.) A Seat of that Bishop lyeth half an hours going from the

Rhine, wherefore this Bishoprick is accounted the Chief of all the Bishopricks of the Rhine, or the Pfaffen gaste, called by others, because it is situa∣ted near the first beginning of the Rhine, ac∣cording to the Ancient Proverb: Costentz the biggest, Basil the pleasantest, Strasburg the no∣blest, Spires the devoutest, Worms the poorest, Mentz the worthiest, Trier the ancientest, and Collen the richest.

* 1.6The 23d. we rode to Tusis, an Ancient Vil∣lage belonging to the Grawpunters, the Name whereof shews its Original, for the Rhetians are descended from the Tuscans, who under the Con∣duct of one Rhaetus of old took Possession of those Countries; not far off upon a high Moun∣tain is still situated a ruined Castle, called Realt, or which is righter, Rhoetia alta, derived also from the Rhetians.

* 1.7The 24th. at Noon we came by the Splewer∣hill into a Village called Splugi, not far from the beginning, head, or source of the Rhine: Thence we passed over the Hill, and came at Night to a little Village called Gampolschin, situ∣ate in a Valley of the same Name, where we rested.

* 1.8Monday the 25th. at Noon we came to Clae∣ven, or Clavenna, a very Ancient Town, be∣longing to the Bunts, which had Anciently a strong Castle, which was demolished by the Grawpunters themselves, Anno 1524▪ after it was cunningly taken from them by Castel de Maess and John Jacob de Medicis, in which bustle the Town was also ruined, for the Gates and Walls were beaten down, that no Enemy might after that lodge himself there again. From Claeven we went to Riva upon the Lago di Como (where the Water Addua runs into the Lake, and yet

notwithstanding adds no Water to it, nor taketh any from it, but only runs strait through it; and so doth the Rhine through the Lake called the Boden-Sea.) From thence we travelled to Gera upon the same Lake, where we lay all Night; on the Bank I saw some purple-coloured Lillies, a sort of Lilium Saracenicum with small Leaves, and in the old Walls the Cymbalaria.

The 26th. about Noon we came to Como,* 1.9 a very glorious and pleasant City, from whence the Lake hath its Name to this day. From thence we rode the same Night to Milan, the Metropo∣lis of that Dukedom. What strange passages have been committed in this Town before it was possessed by the Emperour Charles the Fifth, af∣ter the Decease of the last Duke Francis Sfortia, is related sufficiently in History.

The 27th. we rode through Binasco,* 1.10 a plea∣sant Village, where the very learned and famous Andreas Alciatus, Doctor in Law, and Professor of several Universities in France and Italy, hath built a very Glorious Palace: And in the Even∣ing passing by the great Park (in which in the Year 1525. was fought that bloody Battel be∣tween Francis King of France, and the Empe∣rour Charles the Fifth's Officers, in which the King himself was made Prisoner, and many of his Men kill'd) the same Night arrived at Pavia, an Ancient Glorious City, situated on the River Tesin, where the Kings of the Longobards did for∣merly keep their Courts, and afterwards Charles the Great, the first German Emperour, did insti∣tute an University, which hath brought up ma∣ny Eminent and Learned Men since.

The 28th. departing from Pavia,* 1.11 we passed the River Padus, or Eridanus, which is believed to be the biggest River in Italy, to Vogera, a

pleasant Village situated on the River Stafora, there we began to take Post, and had Eighteen Stages to Nissa: By Noon we arrived at Dertona, a pretty Town, yet not very full of People, by reason of the many Wars and intestine Quarrels in which it was engaged, belonging to the Duke of Milan. In this Country I found whole Acres sown with Woad, and there I saw the White Pop∣lar, also Millefolium flore luteo, and further upon the Hill Brotho the Cineraria, and the Stoechas Ci∣trina, Cotinus Plinii, and many more fine Plants. At Night we came to Alexandria della Paglia, that is to say, of Chaff. When heavy and long Wars did arise between the Emperour Frederick the First and the Towns of Lombardy, by Instigation of Pope Alexander the Third, the Towns of Lom∣bardy did agree to compile this City out of se∣veral Villages in the Year 1168. and did For∣tifie it the Year next ensuing, and called it af∣ter the Pope's Name, Alexandria: But the Impe∣rialists called it Alexandria of Straw, which Name it doth retain to this day; yet we did not stay there, but rode the same Night to Bellizona, a strong place, which perhaps formerly had its own Princes, which did sell it from Uri and his Relations (because they could not defend it from the Duke of Milan) in the Year 1422. and yet it cost a great deal of Blood, until the Switzers got it into safe possession in the Year 1500.

* 1.12The 29th. at Noon we came to Ast, a consi∣derable City belonging to the Dukedom of Mi∣lan, where the King of Spain keeps a Garrison, which had just then received the new Gover∣nour of Milan, and conducted him into the Ci∣ty. Not far off lyeth Carmagnola, belonging to the King of France, and to the Markgraviat of Saluzo, where is kept a French Garrison, as at

Moncalier (which is very near it) the Duke of Savoy hath a Garrison, and so Garrisons of three Eminent Princes lye very near one another. That Night we lodged in a pitiful Village called Baieron.

The 30th. we rode through Racones and Sa∣vigliano,* 1.13 two small Villages, and at Night came to Coni.

The last of May, after we had broke our Fast in a Village called Limona, we came to Mount Brothus, where we saw many pleasant Vineyards; and so by Tenda into another Village called Sorgo, where we staid all Night.

The first of June we reached to Nizza in the Morning, a City with a strong Cittadel,* 1.14 upon the Ty••henian Sea, belonging to the Duke of Savoy, which the Turkish Admiral Barbarossa did for a long time Besiege with great fury, and yet was forced to leave it, although he had the City in his possession, in the Year 1543. Thither also came Francis King of France, and the Em∣perour Charles the Fifth, to Pope Paul the Third, to have Peace made between them. There-about I espied some fine Plants, but chiefly two sorts of Papaver Corniculatum, with large and stately Flowers yellow and brown, and also the Ladanum latifolium, and upon the Hill towards Villa Franca, a Convolvulus with white and purple-striped flowers, and with long and cut leaves.

The Second we went from thence with more Company, passing through the Villages of Antibo,* 1.15 Cacabo, Luc, Brignola, &c. (where I found in the Shops a sort of very delicate preserved Prunes, called in English Prunella's, which would be very useful in burning Fevers against the Thirst, in great quantity) to Marseilles, which maketh Thirty French Miles or Leagues; and we rode so fast

onward during this Journey, that we arrived there in Nineteen days after our departure, that is, on the fifth day of June; by the way I saw Convolvulus foliis a••utis, Rubia Tinctorum, Stoechas, a fine Seseli Peloponnesiacum, Thymelaea, Cistus with white and purple flowers, and also a kind of La∣danum of the learned Carolus Clusius with small Rosemary-leaves, Terebinthus, Ilex Coccifera, A∣spalathus, and the Polemonium Monspeliensium of Rembert Dadonaeus, called Trifolium fruticans, Rus∣cus, Lentiscus, Calamintha montana, some common Thistles, and others.

In Marseilles where I was lodged in my fore∣named Kinsman's House to stay until the Ships were ready, I met with one John Ulrich Kraft, Son of John Kraft, one of the Privy Council at Ulm, who was arrived there a few days be∣fore, also with the same intention to go along with us, about his own Business; we staid to∣gether, and while the Ships were fitting out, we made our selves acquainted with the Physicians and Apothecaries, but above the rest with one experienced Man, Jacob Renaud, a great lover of Plants, who shewed me in his Garden many pretty and strange Simples, viz. Scammonium verum, Ambrosia, Moly, Ammi, Aloes, &c. and a great many dryed and laid between Papers. I found also about the City, Trifolium Asphaltites, Lactuca marina, Dentillaria, Tragacantha Guil∣helmi Rondeletii, a great Scabiosa with white flow∣ers, Gratiola, Gnaphalium marinum, Medica ma∣rina, Polygonum marinum, Eryngium marinum, Co∣ris Monspeliensium, another sort of Tamariscus, and of Consolida with yellow sweet flowers, which I also found between Nimes and Pont du gard, an old, strong, and fine Building, upon which I did find Ruta Sylvestris, a sort of Verbascum foliis dissectis,

Papaver corniculatum flore flavo. I also found there-about Chondrilla Viminea, growing chiefly in the Vineyards, Conyza major, Vermicularis fru∣ticans, Carduus tomentosus, not unlike to Leucacan∣tha, Nepa Lobelii in adversariis novis. I also found Tartonrayre, Aster atticus luteus, Psyllium, Seseli Ae∣thiopicum fruticans, Jujubes, red Valeriana, Corruda Rembert▪ Dodon▪ the first kind of Catanance Dioscor▪ which I first spied by its dryed leaves, just like to a Vulture's Claw, and many others, not need∣ful to be here related.

After that the Ship Santa Croce was laden, victualled for three Months, and provided with Guns, and all other Necessaries for a three Months Voyage, we two went with our Master, Anthony Reinard, with some others belonging to him,* 1.16 in a Frigat the first day of September in the Year 1673. to our Ship, which lay at Anchor with several other laden Ships, near the adjacent Islands, with an intention to set Sail the next day.

The next day about two in the Afternoon,* 1.17 when God sent us a good Wind, we hoisted up our Sails, and went on: When our Patron be∣gan to exhort his Men to agree together, and to be obedient to him, which they all faithfully promised; then we went to Prayers, and re∣commended our selves to the protection of God Almighty.

In the first setting out, before we got to Sea, our Ship came so near to another, that they touched almost, and had not the Seamen in time got them off, we might have suffered Ship-wrack.

When this was over, and we out of danger, we sailed on with full Sails six of us, and advan∣ced so fairly, that we lost the sight of Land be∣fore

Night, and could see nothing but Sky and Water.

Not long after most of us began to be Sea∣sick, and to bring up what we had eaten some days before,* 1.18 but I and my Camrade Kraft pur∣ged our selves that Night so well, that we were very fresh again the next Morning: Some of the rest remained sick for seven days after, and not one of us (although we were 48) but was sick, and found an alteration after our Shipping off.

After we had sailed two days with a favoura∣ble Wind, by the Latins called Caurus, but by the French and Italians Maistral, (which bloweth between North and West) and proceeded an Hundred French Leagues,* 1.19 there arose on the fourth day about Midnight another Wind called Graeco, and by the Latins Caecias, which the more it went to the East, the more it was against us, so that we being hindred from going Eastward, were forced to go side-ways, and to traverse up and down, and were driven so far Southwards, that on Sunday Night,* 1.20 and Monday Morning we sailed in sight of the Coast of Barbary. After the Wind was laid a little, and the Dolphins appear∣ed in great numbers, we hoped for better Wea∣ther, but for want of it, finding our selves ad∣vance towards Africa more and more, we were forced to Tack about, and to direct our Course towards Marseilles again.

We going thus back again, contrary to our Intentions, feared that the Wind would hold so a while still, but contrary to our expectation it came to be so calm towards the Night, that we could hardly perceive any. Then we hoped it would change, which did also succeed accord∣ingly, for the next Morning before break of day

the Maistral began to blow again, which pleased us extreamly, and so we returned and pursued our former Course again towards the East,* 1.21 and on Monday we sailed so fast, that in an hours time we made Ten Italian Miles,* 1.22 and on the 9th. day came into the Straights of Sardinia and A∣frica, where we saw an Island called Galicia, which although it be but small, yet because of the high Mountains is seen afar off: we left it about 30 Leagues on one side of us. This Island is subject to no body, wherefore a great many Pirates lye lurking there: In it is no great mat∣ter to be seen, only wild Capers grow there in great plenty. We finding our selves in this dan∣gerous place, were not idle, (although the Ship was well provided with Guns, Pikes, and other Arms) but got our Great Guns ready, and filled our Chamber, in which we two were, with Guns and Swords, so that it looked rather like an Ar∣moury of the whole Ship than a Chamber. More∣over because we were afraid of some huge Rocks that lye in the Sea, chiefly of them which the Seamen call Leuci, they observed them diligently, not only in their Sea-cards, to know which way they might avoid them, but kept a good Watch all that Night to observe them, and so with the help of God we got safely clear of them.

A little after we came in view of the King∣dom of Tunis in Africa, with some adjacent Islands; amongst them there is one called Simles, which, though but small, is very fruitful, and therein groweth the best Aristolochia rotunda in abundance.

We lost this the next Morning,* 1.23 and West∣ward upon our right hand, at about Fourty Miles distance, we saw another, called Pantha∣larea, subject to the King of Spain, which is in∣habited

by above 300 people: Sicily on our left, because the Night fell in, we did not then see, but came so near it, that early in the Morning we could not only see the Hills and Mountains, and chiefly the Mongibello, which is very high situated at the other side of the Famous City of Syracusa, but also the Buildings and Steeple di∣stinctly, sailed also the whole day by that side, that lyeth over against the Island Malta, so long till we came to the last point thereof: And al∣though we were not in a little danger there, be∣cause of the War, yet we saw no more than one small Ship early in the Morning by Malta, which we took to be of Marseilles. So (God be praised) we arrived very well, and without any hindrance at the furthest point of Sicily on the 11th. day of September in the Evening,* 1.24 which is reckoned to be 900 Italian Miles from Mar∣seilles; and we hoped also with the help of the Almighty to go the rest of our Voyage to Cy∣prus, which is 1300 more, (three of which are reckoned to a French League) for we crossed the Adriatick and Tyrrhenian Seas so happily by good Weather, as if we had gone the other way through the Straights. And although we sailed on very fast, yet the Wind was uncertain, for one arose after another,* 1.25 so that we had three several Winds that Night and Day, viz. First, Maistral after Midnight,* 1.26 which lasted until Morning; then the Betsch, that blew from South-West very violently, in Latin called Africus, which lasted till Night: Then followed the Po∣nente, which bloweth from the West, towards Night, which commonly ariseth upon the Coast of Africa, as the Old Seamen observe, and we found it so our selves, on the day of the Holy Cross, not without Trouble or Danger: For as

the Seamen kept that Day, and according to their Old Custom discharged three Great Guns,* 1.27 the Betsch arose immediately with very great violence, so that the Waves swelled very high, and the Ship was tossed about from one side to the other, and did rock us so, that if we had not held our selves, we could not have kept our places, as did happen to some of our Company that did not observe this, and were strangely tumbled about in the Ship, and forced to creep on all four to their places again. This Wind be∣gan to remit towards Night, when the Maistral began to blow. With this Maistral we went on, and came so far, that on Monday the 15th. of September early we did make the Island Candy,* 1.28 and soon after another, now called Cerigo, an∣ciently Cythera, near to the Morea. That day we had very good Weather, and it was so calm, that we could reach no further than to the Point of Candy. Thus going on, another Wind arose, blowing from South-East, called Sirocco, and in Latin Vulturnus, which was contrary to,* 1.29 and hin∣dred us very much, so that we were forced to Sail upon one side, to Weather the Point from one side to the other; when we came to the side of Creet, and our Patron would neither Land in Candy, nor in a little Island called Le∣gosia, we turned on Wednesday towards Africa. Some while after a very great Tempest arose, with Thunder and Lightning, so that we had work enough with our Sails, and to Rule the Ship that it might take no hurt: And we sailing thus against the Wind, that it might not cast us back, this made us more work then the rest, for the Waves went against us so vehemently, that when we were mounted to the top of a Wave, we seemed to look down thence into a deep and

dark Valley; then down we went again with such a Fury, that we thought we should descend to the bottom, which continued almost 'till the next Morning. And although the Tempest had thrown us a good way back,* 1.30 yet in a little time we got so far forward again, that we could de∣scry Candy, and the little Island Legosia. Just then we spied two Ships, one a Bark, ten Miles off to the Left, and the other a great Ship go∣ing to Africa.

* 1.31After we were thus gone along by Creet, we came on Friday just over against the City of Candy; it came to be so calm and so warm, that we could hardly perceive we were come above three or four Miles. We going thus slowly, some of our Company jumped out into the Sea to wash themselves, but the Mate of our Ship run a Fish through with a long Spear for that pur∣pose, called Lischa, and so pulled it out; this was delicately Coloured, and very pleasant to look upon, his Back was Blew, and his Belly White and Glisning, above a Yard long, of a tender Flesh, and very good to Eat. This seems to have been a Tunny.

Just over against it, is a Monastery of St. Francis, in which is a very good Apothecaries Shop, and a delicate Garden filled with strange and use∣ful Plants.

There is also not far off, a good and safe Port, called Calisme, where we would willingly have taken in Water, but because it lay thirty Miles before us, and the Wind Sirocco contrary to us began to blow again, and hindred us in this En∣terprise; we steered on Saturday towards the South, that we might reach it the next Morn∣ing.

About Noon,* 1.32 when we turned again to the Porto, we saw another Ship on the Left, and be∣cause we did not know how to trust her, we looked to our great Guns, of which we had thirteen, and got them ready, and also the rest of our Arms, &c. But the longer we looked upon the Ship, the further we perceived her go from us. When we came within twelve Miles of the Port, (and hoped to make it) the Wind changed, and the Tramontana blew from the North vehemently,* 1.33 so we went on in our right Course to the Islands Calderon and Christiana, so that on Monday we passed the furthest Point of Creet called Caput Salomonis, where we saw on the hight another Island scituated sixty Italian Miles from Rhodus, called Scarpanthos,* 1.34 and also Carpathos, where Night befel us. But when we expected to go forwards with this Wind we lost it, and it changed into Graeco again, contrary to us, and so we could not go on further, but were forced to cross up and down and to weather the Point.* 1.35 On Monday we saw a Ship that came directly down upon us, wherefore we went to meet her, and put our Flag at the top of our Main-mast. But when we came nearer we knew her to be a Marsilian, called Santa Maria de Lacura Bursa, they did send out one of their Boats to tell us, that they came seven Weeks agone from Tripoli, and that they wanted Biscuits very much, and therefore desired us to let them have some of ours, to which we willingly agreed, and let them have what they would, and so they were very well pleased. While this was done, a good Wind arose again, serving us both, called Tra∣montana, so that we could go forwards and they homewards, and so we parted. Then our Ma∣ster ordered three Guns to be discharged, which

they answered with two, so we went on, and lost the sight of one another in half an Hours time.

Here is to be observed, that of the four Car∣dinal, and four side Winds five were for us (for we could go on as well with the Tramontana and the Midi, called North and South, as with the three other, called North-West, West, and South-West, and so we had three contrary ones, Syrocco, Levantino,* 1.36 and Graeco, which were contrary to us in our going; during this Wind we went on with such speed, that on the 24th of September in the Evening we saw the great Island Cyprus,* 1.37 five hundred Miles beyond Candy. But because we had steered too much on the Right, we were forced to spend all that Night and the next Day before we could come to Cyprus.* 1.38 The same Morning we saw the high Mountain Libanus in Syria, two hundred Miles distant from us, and so at Night we got into the Harbour of Salamine, here is made the best Bay-salt that is in the World: Here we also discharged three Guns, for Joy of our safe Arrival, and some of us Landed, to∣gether with our Master, to take in Water, and to enquire after our Friends and Acquaintance. No sooner were we Landed, but we met with two travelling Turks, with an Italian that under∣stood their Language: they spake to us by their Interpreter, and conducted us to their Colonel, who was encamped near the Market-place of Salamine upon a Hill, where one might see a great way off into the Sea. After an Hours walk we came in sight of him, and saw about thirty Tents, and amongst them his also, where we saw some curious Tapestry spread, and him sitting in the midst, with a delicate white Tur∣bant, and a long red lined Caban.

He held in his Hand a long Iron, like a Grater, we use to grate Bread withall, only it was a great deal smaller: The Turkish Persons of Qua∣lity have generally such Irons in their Hand in the Summer-time; which they put in between their Back and Cloaths to scratch their Backs when they itch: About him sat some more Gentlemen bended down, and others kept Cen∣tinel without his Tent, with Guns and Scym∣meters well provided. Amongst the rest there was one of a good Presence covered with a Ti∣ger's Skin, that held a great Iron Club in his Hand. Upon his desire we went to him, with the usual Reverences, according to their Cu∣stom, bending our Head and the whole Body downwards, and laying the Right-hand upon our Breasts: Our Master also pulled off his Shoes, went in, and sate down with the rest be∣fore him: but we two set our selves down with∣out upon two Seats that were brought us. Then the Lord began to ask our Master, by his Inter∣preter, from whence we came, how long we had been a coming, what Merchandizes we had brought, and whether we designed to make any Sale there: which Questions our Master an∣swered. Then he began to enquire after News: Viz. Where-about the Spanish Armada was at present, and how strong it was reputed, whe∣ther the King of Spain had made any Leagues with other Princes: and how the King of France did agree with his Hugonots, how strong the City of Rochelle was, and whether the King took it by violence, or whether they submitted themselves voluntarily. After this Conference had lasted for half an Hour, he dismissed us with great Civility, giving us leave, to go about our Affairs. So we went off with the usual Cere∣monies,

and went the same Evening into the Market of Salamine, to enquire after our Friends, but we found this Market-Town, and also all the Neighbourhood so strangely spoiled, that there were but very few whole Houses standing. But being that we found none of ours, nor ha∣ving any business there, we returned to our Ship, I found nothing by the way but a few Caper-bushes with some Paliurus's and Kali.

* 1.39After our Men had filled Water enough out of the Well by the Harbour we went aboard the Ship again, hoisted up our Sails, and depart∣ed in the Night. But in going thence for Tripoli we had for the most part contrary Winds, which hindred us so much, that we did not ar∣rive there until the last day of September. Thanks, Honour, and Glory be to the Almighty God, that mercifully did protect us from all Dangers and Mischiefs, and bought us safely into this Harbour.

CHAP. II.

Of the Famous City of Tripoli, of its fruit∣ful Neighbourhood, and great Trade: And also of the splendid Baths, and o∣ther magnificent Buildings, to be seen there. Their ways of making Rusma, Pot-Ashes, Soap, &c.

BEfore Tripoli near the Sea-shore, we saw five Castles like high Towers distant from one an other about a Musquet-shot, where some Janisaries are kept in Garrison, to cover the Ships in the Harbour (which is in some mea∣sure surrounded with Rocks) and to defend that Custom-house, and the several Ware-houses (where you may see all sorts of Goods brought from most parts of the World) from any hostile Attempt or Assault: but after the Sun was set, and Night began to approach we made what haste we could to the Town, which was an Hours going distant from us. Some Turks went with us no other ways armed but with good strong Cudgels, which, as I was told, they com∣monly carry to keep off the Wolves called Jacals (whereof there are a great many in these Countries that are used to run, seek and pur∣sue after their Prey in the Night.) While we were a talking of them some came up pretty near us, but as soon as they saw us they turned and ran away. When we came to the Gate of the Town, we found it shut up, wherefore one of our Friends (that met us to make us welcom)

called to some French Men that were in their Inn, in their Language called Fondique, which is near the Gate, and reacheth quite to the Wall of the Town, and desired that one of them would take the Pains to go to the Sangiacho, to desire him to let the Gate be opened to let us in, which they were willing to do. But in the mean time that we staid before the Gate, ano∣ther that was an Enemy to our Friend ran also away, and bespoke some Turks and Moors to set upon us, which they were very willing to do, and came with all speed through another Gate that is never shut, along the Wall to us, fell un∣awares upon us, struck at us, and took hold of us, chiefly at our good Friend, for whose sake all this was done: others drew their Scymmeters upon us, so that I thought we should have been all cut to pieces. While this was a doing the Gate was opened, and some French Men and their Consul himself came to our assistance, and spoke to these Fellows, earnestly exhorting them to desist, and to let the Cause be decided by the Sangiacho and Cadi, which at length they did. So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the Croud into their Fondique, where we re∣mained all that night. The Consul was very much displeased at this, considering that such like Proceedings would be very troublesome to them, wherefore he made great Complaints and Enquiries, until at length he found out who was the Author thereof.

The next Morning we went to our Friends Houses in order to stay a while with them: in the mean time we walked sometimes about in our own Cloaths to see the Town, which is situated in the Country of Syria, called Phoenicia, which reached along the Sea-shore, to Berinthus,

Sidon, Tyrus and Acon, as far to the Mountain of Carmelus. The Town Tripoli is pretty large, full of People, and of good account, because of the great Deposition of Merchandizes that are brought thither daily both by Sea and Land, it is situated in a pleasant Country, near the pro∣montory of the high Mountain Libanus, in a great Plain toward the Sea-shore, where you may see abundance of Vineyards, and very fine Gardens, enclosed with Hedges for the most part, consisting chiefly of Rhamnus, Paliurus, Oxyacantha, Phillyrea, Lycium, Balaustium, Rubus and little Palm-Trees, that are but low, and so sprout and spread themselves. In these Gar∣dens as we came in, we found all sorts of Sal∣letting and Kitchin-herbs, as Endive, Lettice, Ruckoli, Asparagus, Seleri, whose tops are very good to be eaten with Salt and Pepper, but chiefly that sort that cometh from Cyprus, Tara∣gon by the Inhabitants called Tarchon, Cabbages, Colliflowers, Turneps, Horse-raddishes, Carrots, of the greater sort of Fennel, Onions, Garlick, &c. And also Fruit, as Water-melons, Melons, Gourds, Citruls, Melongena, Sesamum (by the Natives cal∣led Samsaim) the Seeds whereof they are very much used to strow upon their Bread, and more; but chiefly the Colocasia, which is very common there, and are sold all the Year long: I have also found them grow wild about Rivu∣lets, but could never see either Flowers or Seeds on them. I found also without the Gardens many Dates and white Mulberry-Trees, which ex∣ceed our Aspen and Nut-Trees in height very much; and also Pomgranat-Trees, and Siliqua, which the Grecians call Xylocerata the Arabs, Charnubi. Also Olive and Almond-Trees, and Sebesten, the Fruit whereof are to be had at

Apothecaries Shops by the same Name. Poma Adami Matth: But in great plenty there are Ci∣trons, Lemons and Oranges, which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs here. Between these Gardens run several Roads, and pleasant Walks, chiefly in the Summer, for they afford many shady Places and Greens, where you are defended from the Heat and the Sun-beams: and if passing through you should have a mind to some of the Fruits, you may either gather some that are fallen down, or else pull them from the nearest Trees without danger, and take them home with you.

Without at the Sea-shore, near the Old Town of Tripoli (which together with many more, as Antiochia, Laodicea, &c. in the Year of our Lord 1183. was so destroyed by an Earthquake, that nothing but a few Marks remain) there were more Spring-gardens, which some of the Merchants still remember. But these were a few Years agone by the violence of the Seas so destroyed, and so covered with Sand, that now you see nothing there but a sandy Ground, like unto the Desarts of Arabia. Yet at Tripoli they have no want of Water, for several Rivers flow down from the Mountains, and run partly through the Town; and partly through the Gar∣dens, so that they want no Water neither in the Gardens nor in their Houses.

The New Town in it self is of no strength, for it is so meanly walled in, that in several places in the Night you may get in and out: But within there is a Citadel situated upon an ascent near the Water, where a Garrison of a few Janisaries is kept. They have low Houses ill built and flat at the top, as they are gene∣rally in the East, for they cover their Houses

with a flat Roof or a Floor, so that you may walk about as far the Houses go: And the Neigh∣bours walk over the tops of their Houses to vi∣sit one another, and sometimes in the Summer they sleep on the tops of them: And so it may very well be, that the four Men (of which we read in St. Mark the 2d. and St. Luke the 5th. Chapter) that carried the Paralytick Man, and could not come to Christ because of the Crowd of the People, did carry him on the tops of the Houses, and so let him down through the Roof into the Room where our Saviour was. They have not great Doors, Gates or Com∣ings in from the Street as we have in our Country (except some few Merchants Houses) because they use neither Wagons nor Carts, wherefore they have only a little low Door, some∣times not above three Foot high, so that you cannot go into them without stooping. In a great many Houses the Comings in are so dark and deep that one would think he were going into a Cave or Cellar, but when you are come through this Entry into them, you see in some great Court-yards wherein are Cisterns to wash themselves in, in others large Halls paved, and therein some Ascents that go up two or three Steps, paved delicately with Marble, which they keep very clean, and adorned with rich Tapestry, whereupon they sit, and this is co∣vered with a large Arch left open at one side, that the Turks may, chiefly in the Summer, sit underneath them very airy.

Their Doors and Houses are generally shut with wooden Bolts, which are hollow within, and they unlock them with wooden Keys about a Span long, and about the thickness of a Thumb, into this Key they have driven, five, six, seven,

eight or nine short Nails, or strong Wires in such an order and distance that they just fit others that are within the Lock, and so pull them forwards or shut them backwards as they please.

The Streets are but narrow, paved with broad Stones, and have, chiefly those that are great Roads, a Channel in the middle of them about ten Inches broad, so that a laden Camel may walk in them with ease, or that a Man may step over them, which they say are made that the laden Camels or Asses, &c. that daily ar∣rive in great Caravans, may be obliged to walk in them one after another, in good order, that People may walk in the Streets without being disturbed by them. And that these Channels may be kept clean and dry, they have in some places some hidden drains covered with broad Stones, that as well the Rain-water as that of the Wells may run away through them.

They cannot brag of any fine Buildings, save only the Mosques or Temples, into which no Christian must come, except he hath a mind to be circumcised, and so turn a Mammeluck or Renegado: And also some great Houses by the Natives called Champ or Carvatscharas, (Cara∣vanseries) wherein are a great many Shops or Ware-houses, and Chambers by one another, as is in stately Cloisters, in the middle thereof is a great Court-yard, where the strange Mer∣chants (that daily bring their Merchandizes in great Caravans) do Inn, considering that the Turks keep no other Inns.

The Inns commonly belong to the Grand Seignor, or his Basha, which they build in several Towns to get themselves a yearly Re∣venue, as the Venetians do in Venice out of the German House.

Besides these Buildings they have also Hot-Houses or Bagnios, which are so glorious and sumptuous, that they far exceed all their other Buildings in Beauty, wherefore they are very well worth seeing. And because the Turks, Moors, and Arabs, &c. according to their Ma∣humetan Laws are bound to bath themselves of∣ten, to wash themselves clean from their mani∣fold Sins which they daily commit, but chiefly when they are going to their Mosques, therefore they have their Hot-houses always ready, and keep them warm and in an equal heat, with a very small Charge, and with far less Wood then one can imagine, all the Week long, both by Night and by Day. They have under-ground a large and deep Vault, like unto a large Cellar, which is every where very close, and it hath no more but two Air holes, one on the top about three or four Inches Diameter, and the other below which is a great deal larger, where they put in Wood, or for want of it pieces of Peat (which they make out of Camels or Goats Dung, &c. and also out of the Dregs of the pressed Grapes) these are so dry that the great Heat melts them just like Sea-coals or Turf, which are burnt in the low Countries, and other places where they have not plenty of Wood: and these give so great a heat that it warmeth the whole Vault quite through. And yet this Vault is so close made that you do not perceive the least Smoak nor Vapour, although it is some∣times very hot. But that the Fire may not de∣cay, there is one on purpose to attend it, that flings on as much Fuel as is necessary to keep it. These Hot-houses (which according to the Custom of the Ancient Greeks and Romans are magnificently built) have near to the Entry a

delicate Hall which is curiously paved; (as also is the whole Bath) and set with Marbles of all colours very artificially, and a great Cupolo at the top thereof, which is covered with an Arch in shape of a Ball or Globe. Round about the Walls are broad Benches made, where the Peo∣ple put off their Cloaths; wherefore this first part of the Bath (whereof the Ancients had five) was called Apodyterium. In the middle of the Baths is a fine Fountain, where they sprinkle every one that goeth out of the Bath with sweet Water, and also wash the Bathing-cloaths that were made use of in the Bath, which they after∣wards fling up upon Lines that are hung at the top of the Vault, two or three Fathoms high, with an admirable Certainty, and spread them out with a long-Pole, with one-stroke (that they may dry the sooner) so even, as if it were done with Hands, which no body can see with∣out admiration; when they have a mind to make use of them again, they take them down with the same Sticks that are ready stuck up about the Fountain. These are wrought finely with all sorts of Colours, whereof they give two to every one that goeth into the Bath or Bagnio, two others when he cometh out, one to put upon his Head, the other to put about him in the manner of an Apron. When you will go into the Hot-house you must go through two or three Chambers, whereof one is warm∣er than the other (which each of them are co∣vered with round Arches) until you come into the great Room, these Arches are full of round holes all about, which are made in such order, and set with Glass so curiously, that they do not only make them very light, but give also a fine Ornament to them. In the great Bath are

several great Marble Vessels which they let the Water into; round about the great Room, there are three or four small Chambers, which they keep chiefly for Persons of Quality, where they may wash themselves apart from others without any disturbance. Besides these there is still another Room where there is a very great Marble Trough, in which every one may wash himself after his Sweat; there are several Pipes laid in it, that you may temper your Water ac∣cording to your own desire. All these Rooms are heated with the same Fire, and the Turks and Moors (which two Nations have almost the same Religion and Ceremonies) go into them very frequently; but chiefly the Women, which flock to them in great numbers, for they never meet any where else, but here, and at the Graves of their Relations; wherefore they keep these sumptuous Buildings (the like whereto are hardly any where else found) in very good repair. As soon as you come into the Hot-house, and are grown a little warm one of the Servants (which are generally black Moors) meets you, and lays you backwards down upon the Floor, and stretcheth and snaps all your Joints after such a manner that they crack again; then he kneel∣eth down upon your Arms, which he puts up∣on your Breast one over the other, and holds them so for a good while together with his Knees, then he bendeth forwards and stretcheth with both his Hands (keeping you still like a Prisoner under him) your Head upwards. (So it happened once, when some of us went in together, and were treated by the Moor after this manner, that he sprained the Neck of one of my Companions, so that he could not turn his Head in several Days after it) when this is

done he turns you round upon your Belly, toucheth and stretcheth your Joints again in such a manner, as if he did malax a Plaister; at length he stands upon your Shoulder-blades and bending himself down, he rubs you all over your Back with his Hands, then he lifteth you up, and goeth away. Then when you lay your self down to rest you, or to sweat, he maketh a Paste, to take of your Hair (for they wear no Hair upon their Body, saving only their Arm-pits) he taketh Quick-lime (by the Arab's called Rils) and a little Sarnick, (Arsnick) that is. Orpiment, powders them, and mix∣eth them with Water, and anoints your Hair with it, and looks very often after it, until he finds that the Hair begins to come off, then he washeth it perfectly off again (before it can hurt you;) when this is done, he takes a fine white Cloth, dips it in Sope-suds, and rubs your whole Body over with it. The before menti∣oned Cloaths are white like unto Cotton, but the Threads are harder, which the Pilgrims bring with them from Meca: being made of the Bark of Trees that bear Bdellium, and they make Ropes of them, as also of the Fibers of the Leaves of Palm-Trees, and of the co∣vering of the Fruit of the same Tree (which is of the bigness of a Wall-nut) by putting it on a Distaff, and so spinning it out.

Lastly, They wash Peoples Heads, and mix sometimes with their Lees (chiefly for Women) an Ash-coloured Earth called Nalun, which clean∣seth the Head, and makes the Hair grow long. They have also another Earth called Jusabar, which the Women eat frequently, so as breed∣ing Women in our Country use to eat sometimes Coals or other things. These their Baths, are

as free to strangers as Germans, French and Ita∣lians, &c. as to Moors and Turks, but they must have a care not to come into those where the Women are, if they will not run the hazard of their Lives. But that you may know where the Women are, they commonly hang a Cloth over the Door towards the Street, that if any Man should intend to go in there, when he seeth this he may find himself another entrance.

Further concerning their Traffick, there are in the Town (because there is there a very great Deposition of all sorts of Merchandizes, that are brought thither from great distances) a great many Merchants, chiefly French and Italians, which have two Wise, Understanding and Grave Presidents, of which the one that liveth here is a French Man, and the other at Alepo, a Venetian, called Consuls, to assist their Country∣men with good Counsel. They are sent thi∣ther by their Government, and confirmed, and have great Priviledges given them of the Tur∣kish Emperor, to let the Merchants with their Commodities lodge with them, and to defend them against any assault of the Turks and Moors, that they may trade and deal without disturb∣ance. These Consuls, wear still their usual Ha∣bits, made of Red Satin, Velvet, or Damask, &c. very richly adorned, and they bring along with them, Taylors, Shoe-makers, but chiefly their Physicians, Apothecaries, Barber-Surgeons and Ministers, &c. and have besides them their In∣terpreters, skilful in the Turkish and Arabian Language, chiefly the Consul of Venice, because he must stay there but three Years, when they are expired the Dogue sends another in his place. When the new one is arrived at Tripoli he dare

not go on shore, before the other gives him a visit of Reception in the Ship.

To these two Consuls there are given two large Buildings, called by them Fondiques, situated near two Gates of the City, which lead towards the Haven and the Sea-shore, that they may the easier send their Goods in and out. There are all day long a great many Moors with their Asses, that stand waiting for an opportunity to conduct Merchants and Seamen with their Goods in and out. These two Houses are large, and have abundance of Vaults and Chambers, so that there is room enough to lodge both Merchants and their Goods.

With the French are also lodged, those from Genua, Florence, St. Luck, Germans, and Dutch∣men, &c. as also with the Venetians those of Candia, Corfu, &c. that are under their Master's Jurisdiction. These Fondiques have no more then one large Gate, where Janisaries keep watch: when their Masters the Consuls go out, they are accompanied with a multitude of Mer∣chants and their Servants, and they are in great Authority with the Turks and Moors, even be∣yond the Bashaw himself: They always take along with them their Janisaries, which go before with great and long Cudgels, and beat the People out of the way (even the Turks themselves.)

The Merchants have daily great Conversati∣on with the Jews, for they know a great many Languages, and the Prizes of all Merchandizes, how to buy and to sell them; wherefore they always help to conclude Bargains in Merchan∣dizes, pay the Money and give Bills of Ex∣change, wherefore they have their Broakage. I have seen chiefly three sorts of their Silver

Coins, viz. Aspers, Medin and Saiject, which are very good, and pass through all Turky. When great Sums are paid, they do not tell the whole, but only part of it, and weigh it, and so take the rest proportionably by the same weight. Of Gold Coins they have only Ducats which are made of fine Gold, and are very limber: be∣sides these you hardly see any other Coins, but Venetian Ducats, French Testons, Joachims Thalers, of which they have so many, that they often do not only pay with them great Sums and their Bills of Exchange, but turn them also into their own Coin. So that there is abundance of Jews through all Turky in any Trading-Town, but chiefly in Alepo, and in this Town of Tripoli, where they have built a very large Habitation, and a delicate Synagogue. These Jews have the Revenues of Customs of the Grand Signior in their hands, so that nothing can be brought in or out, but it must go through their hands, which is very troublesome to the Merchants. Those that buy any thing of them, must have a special care, that they be not cheated, for they are full of it, insomuch as they confess of themselves, that no body can get any thing by them, except he will be a greater Harmani (that is cheat) than they, that dare to sell Wall-nuts, for Nutmegs or Myrobolans.

Concerning the Merchandizes: if one will see several sorts of Goods they are to be found in the Carvatscharas or Champen, whereof I have made mention before, but chiefly in the Batzaren, or Houses where they buy and sell, or Exchanges. These Exchanges are wide and long, and partly arched, partly covered with Timber, that you may walk and trade there without being wetted, they have Shops on both sides, which are also

kept by Handicrafts, Tradesmen, as Shoe-makers, Taylors, Sadlers, Silk-embroiderers, Turners, Copper-smiths, Cutlers, Woollen-drapers, Grocers, Fruiterers, Cooks, and many more, which are very orderly distributed and placed in their several Streets and Places. They also drive a great Trade in Silk, and there are a great many that deal in nothing else, but Silk, which is convey'd thither from the adja∣cent places, for Mount Libanus is inhabited by a numberless People, that live by spinning and working of Silk, but chiefly they of Damascus, where is such plenty of Silk, that a Merchant may quickly lay out in it many thousand Ducats: Because of the great abundance of white Mulberry-Trees (by the Natives called Tut) which grow there so high and large, that they have plenty of Leaves to feed their Silk-worms: But the Mulberries thereof are white, and they carry them about in Baskets to sell to ordinary People. So there is in the Batzars many Silk-workers, which make all sorts of Embroidery, as Purses, Buttons, and Girdles or Sashes of several co∣lours, which they tie about their Loins; these are at work before their Shops, that every one may see them. When they work, or tie two Threads together, they hold the Work oftener with their great Toe, then pin it to any thing, and the same do the Turners, (which sitting to it) hold their turning Irons as well with their Toes as with their Fingers. Further at a cer∣tain time of the Year there is brought from Da∣mascus and other adjacent places, to these Bat∣zars so great a quantity of large and well-tasted Cibebs, a kind of Raisins, having but one or no Stone, that several Ship loads are sent from thence to us. These and the like Goods are daily

brought and found in their Batzars, as rare Ta∣pestry and delicately wrought Silks with Flow∣ers and Roses of several colours, some of which look like pure Gold. But of all the Trades-men there are not so many of one sort as of them that only deal in Soap and Pot-ashes, for of these Ashes (besides Soap) several Ship-loads are yearly sent from thence to Venice, which they use for making of Glase as well as Soap. These Ashes are made chiefly of a Herb called by the Arabians Schivan, whereof there are two sorts (which amongst others I have pasted upon Paper) one whereof is not unlike to our little Kali, it is a thick and knobby Plant, with seve∣ral small Sprigs growing out of it, which have several full Buttons at the top, and underneath small pointed Leaves, just like the lesser Kali, as I said before, tasting somewhat sharp, the Leaves thereof are underneath white, and on the other side of the colour of Ashes. The o∣ther sort becometh also many Stalks, which are full of knots like our Equisetum, and under∣neath them appears a Woody and Ash-coloured Root.

Both these Herbs grow thereabout in great quantities, and are burnt into Ashes upon the high Mountains, in burning thereof there set∣tleth an Oily Matter underneath towards the bottom, which united with the Ashes is almost as hard as a Stone when it is cold: at the top thereof a part of the Ashes remains unmix'd and loose, therefore it is not so good as the rest. These ashes are brought down from the Mountains upon Camels backs by the Moors, to some Merchants that drive a great Trade with them, for partly they send away into Foreign parts, and partly they make Soap of them,

some more, some less, according to every one's Capacity and Pleasure. The way they make their Soap in Syria, I am informed is this, viz. They take commonly Twelve hundred weight (or twelve Centners) of these Ashes, which in the Summer they divide into Eight, and in the Winter into Four parts, because the Soap is sooner boil'd up in Winter (for the Heat being then included by the outward Cold is more ve∣hement) then in Summer. Of this they take first one part and make it into a good sharp Lye, which they pour into a very large Kettle or Caldron made of Stone, with a large bottom made of a Copper-plate, and very thick, where∣in they have before put Sixteen hundred weight of Sallet-Oil, and let it simper for twenty four Hours, pouring daily in more Lye of another part. But before it is quite boil'd up (which in Winter requireth perhaps five Days, and in Summer nine or ten) they take an Hundred weight of Quick-lime, and mixing it with the Ashes, draw a Lye from it, which they put two days before it is quite enough into the Caldron, more or less according as they find it thick or thin. But if it should happen, that there should be too much of the Lye in the Kettle, they have a Cock coming out of the Copper-plate, whereby they let out as much of the Lye as is convenient. When it is almost boil'd up, they take out, with a Copper-kettle that holds eight or ten Pounds, the thicker part of the Soap that swimmeth on the top, and pour it upon the Floor, which is covered with Lime or Chalk beaten to Powder, let it lie there for one Day in the Winter, and two Days in the Summer, and it grows so hard that they can walk over it, then they make it

smooth, cut it into square pieces, and put their Mark upon it.

CHAP. III.

Of the Turks of high and low Conditions, Men and Women: of their Imployments, Offices, Manners, Customs, Cloaths, as much as I could at Tripoli (during my abode) understand, see and learn thereof.

THE City of Tripoli is, as well as a great many more of the adjacent Towns and Provinces, subject to the Turkish Emperor, wherein he hath his Officers, as in all other places, that they may be ruled according to his Pleasure, and protected from all assaults and dangers. Such Superiors are by them called Sangiacks or Bashaws, which we may render State-holders, which have several hundred Horse-men under their Command, more or less according to the Revenues of the Provinces that are committed to their care. These are brave and experienced Souldiers, that lead their Men out into the Fields several times in the Week, to exercise them, the Horse-men in Ri∣ding and the Foot in Shooting with Bows and Arrows, which have their several Marks done upon high Poles to shoot at in their running, that if there should be occasion they may be ready to take the Field presently to fight their Enemies. These Sangiachi have other Captains and Commanders under them, of which the Soubashaws or Judges are the Chief, these are

placed by him round about in the adjacent places, to officiate for him where he cannot be present. To such places are commonly called the Burgers or Citizens of the same places, and they continue no longer then half a Year. By them are examined all Criminal Matters, and they have Power to examine and put to the Tor∣ture all Malefactors, to make them confess their Crimes. They also accompany the Male∣factors that are Sentenced and Condemned by the Cady to the place of Execution, to see the Sentence duly executed: So I have seen them often to ride along, but chiefly at one time with a poor Malefactor condemned to die, who was carried on a Camel's back, tied with his Back to a Cross, with his Arms extended, to the place of Execution, and between the Cross and his Shoulders were put two burning Torch∣es prepared with Bacon, so that the Grease ran all over his Body, and burnt it severely. The Turks have also for several Crimes (whereof there are a great many) their several Punish∣ments, as for Thieves and Murtherers the Gal∣lows, for Traytors impaling, and for them that kill a Man Beheading, &c. And so they keep a great many Servants, which they send out e∣very where, to bring to them any that are sus∣pected to have transgressed the Laws, by beat∣ing or wounding one another (which happens very seldom) by Stealing or Murthering, or A∣dultery.

For any other Transgressions besides these, the Turks are brought before other Magistrates, called Cadi, which are to understand the Laws, and to Judge, and to pronounce Sentence after they have examin'd the Witnesses. If it be for Debt, they are immediately cast into Prison un∣til

they pay, or find out any other means, to make up the Debt. But if it be for transgres∣sing the Laws, they are severely fined, or else punished with blows. Wherefore also their Cadi keep several Men and Spies, which they daily send out, to find out any, that transgres∣seth the Laws in drinking of Wine, in not go∣ing to Prayers frequently, in not strictly obser∣ving their Fasts, or in transgressing the Laws any other ways. If they find any, they sum∣mon them before their Cadi, who punishes them according to the default, with a pecuniary Mulct, or if they have no Money to give, he Sen∣tences them to receive a certain number of Blows upon the Soals of their Feet, and besides pay half a Penny for each blow. Being that a great many of such Transgressors are daily brought before him, whereof the greatest part receive Blows, it causeth so miserable a howling and crying, that we might plainly hear it in the French Fondique, which is just over against it: and although the Cadi is very much trou∣bled with such Transgressors, yet Matrimonial Causes take him up a great deal more time, be∣cause all that will Marry must come to him, and make their Agreements and Contracts, which are consigned into his Books, partly that they may have them to shew if any Differences should arise between them (seeing that the Turks and Moors have several Wives, and are divorced again for a small matter) and partly that they may give them Copies of their Contracts upon their Marriages, which they write for ordinary People upon smooth and plain Paper, but for others that are rich upon a piece of white Sattin, about a Yard long. These their Contracts they comprehend in a few Words, and draw them

up so short, that they scarce contain above eight or ten Lines apiece, at least two Inches distant from one another. For this purpose they keep several Clerks, which oftener write upon their Knees then upon Desks or Tables. These San∣giachs, Soubashaws and Cadis, of which I have made mention before, and also their Wives go very richly cloathed with rich flower'd Silks, artificially made and mix'd of several colours. But these Cloaths are commonly given them by those that have Causes depending before them (for they do not love to part with their own Money) to promote their Cause, and to be favourable to them: for they are so very covetous, that where there is nothing given them, there they do but little, for the Bashaws and Sangiachi (which un∣der the Grand Signior, rule Kingdoms and Prin∣cipalities) know very well that they must rule but three Years in the same place: For as soon as their Sultan commands them they must go to another place, perhaps far distant from that place. Wherefore they always strive after Ho∣nour and Riches, that they may either by Gift or Favour be by the Court promoted, to great∣er Authority and Office, or else if that cannot be obtained, they may at least lay up in the mean time such Riches, that they may be able to maintain themselves after the same Greatness, as they did before.

When I lived there, a new Sangiach was pro∣moted into the place of the old one, who made his entrance followed by his Spahis, and was honourably received by the Town: his Train consisted most in Horse, and Archers with Arms and Shields very well stored, they also had Drums and Kettle-drums, and other Musi∣cal Instruments, &c. their Sabers or Scyme∣ters

were for the most part tipp'd up a great way with some gilded Metal, and very smooth and shining, and so were their Stirups, that at a distance they made a great glistering.

All these Officers, love to be look'd upon, as if they performed their Office with great Inte∣grity, and yet they are so addicted to Cove∣tousness (which is the root of all Evil) that, for Gifts or Bribes, they let the false Depositions of those that out of Spite accuse the innocent pass for Good. Therefore it is a very easie mat∣ter, for any one that would be revenged of his Enemy (by way of a small present) to bring him into great trouble and costs. The Souba∣shaws are of the same Stamp, for they do not at all stick to punish for Lucre-sake, the Inno∣cent, chiefly if they be Rich and Strangers: their Men are very well skill'd in these Affairs, to find one trifle or other against them; and be∣cause their time is also but short, therefore they make all possible speed to grow rich: and this so much the bolder and opener as they need not to fear their Sangiach, •• nor Bashaw, for they wink at it, as being Sharers of the Prey, that receive their Dividend Weekly. In short, let one have committed never so much Evil, if he giveth but Money to them all is well, and he is as good again as ever he was before. Seeing that many, chiefly in Law Suits, are wrong'd by them, therefore higher Judges (called Cadiles∣chier) are set over them, to punish them for their Roguery: these are esteemed by the Turks to be the principal Teachers of the Mahume∣tan Faith and Laws, they are generally grave and understanding Men, before whom are brought all intricate Causes and Appeals to be decided, and they have Power to punish these

and other Officers, but chiefly the Cadis, and to put them in and out, according to their be∣haviour, wherefore they often take their Cir∣cuits from Town to Town, to see how the Cadis execute Justice, wherefore they are very much afraid of their coming, and if they know themselves guilty of any Misdemeanors, they oftentimes run away. If they are complained of by the People, they are presently punished, with many blows, put out of their places, and if the Crime be great, they are after behead∣ed, strangled, burnt, or other ways executed, and this happeneth very often in these Coun∣tries. But if one or more, that were also wronged by the Cadi, could not stay till the Arrival of the Cadileschier, to make their Complaints to him, they have another way, that is to make their Complaints to the Port, or the Emperor's Court, or else to go themselves, and make their complaints in Person, where they are speedily heard (for such Causes as I am inform'd are heard certainly once in fifteen days) and right∣ed. If any be poor he is maintained by the Court until his Cause is ended.

Such a Cause did formerly happen to an In∣terpreter of the Venetian Consul, who being very well to pass, a Soubashaw did strive to make booty of him: but not being able to prove any thing against him whereby he could make him punishable, he found at length a way, and got one of his Servants to hide a common Whore in the Interpreter's House, unknown to him, that he might have sufficient cause to ac∣cuse him. This being done, the Servants of the Cadi broke into the House, and searched it, and finding this Whore▪ they put him into Pri∣son. The Interpreter, notwithstanding he plead∣ed

his innocency, and that he was totally ig∣norant of the Fact, yet could not satisfie the Cadi by any means, but was condemned by him in Nine hundred Ducats, which he was forced to pay. This troubling the Interpreter, he could not brook this unjust Imposition (being an expe∣rienced Man, well skill'd in their Laws) wherefore he took Horse immediately (unknown to the Cadi) for Constantinople, where he made his Complaints to the Court himself so well, and with that Success, that he was declared innocent and not guilty of the Fact. But as this Court usually doth severely punish those that do com∣mit Injustice, so this Cadi did not escape: for within a little while after the Turkish Emperor sent to him a Chiausbashaw (which may be compared to an Executioner) with a little Note, whereof the Contents were to send him his Head by the Bearer, which frighted the Gentle∣man very much, but yet (after by a peculiar Favour he had taken his leave of his Wife) submitted himself to it. This is the Reason, That many ill Intentions and Designs (chiefly if one summoned the other to appear at the Court before the Emperor) are stopt and drawn back, which else would have taken effect and been gone on with all.

If a Man appeareth before any Turk that is a Person of Quality, he must have especial care, that chiefly in departing he do not turn his back-side towards him, for this is accounted the greatest Incivility and Affront that can be given throughout all the Turkish Dominions. Nay if a Servant appears before his Master to ask him forgiveness of his Faults, he useth pecu∣liar Ceremonies, first he submitteth himself, and sheweth his Master all respect imaginable, then

he taketh with his Knees bended, his Master's Hands to kiss them: if his Master lets him have them freely, he is in good hopes that his Master will grant him his request, but if not, but draw∣eth them back, although he maketh several proffers towards them, he knoweth certainly that he is still out of favour, and that there is but small hopes of obtaining his Intention.

They love that one should bear a great deal of Honour and Respect towards them, for they know that their Masters the Sultan's Power hath for a long time past, not been decreasing but always increasing; wherefore they take very much upon themselves, and are always richly cloathed, and ride delicate Horses, well adorn'd with stately Accoutrements, with em∣broidered Saddles, and Saddle cloths of Scarlet, Velvet, or other Silks, the Bridles and Stirrups well garnished with Silver and Gold.

They commonly speak in the Turkish Lan∣guage (and so do all that lie about in Garrisons) which is a very Manly one, and sounds in pro∣nouncing much like unto our German Tongue: but they also generally are expert in the Arabian Tongue, which is the common one there to the whole Country, and goeth through many Provinces: for you meet there with many Ara∣bians, Syrians, Jacobites, &c. Christians and Heathens to whom this Speech is common.

The Turks have also some very fine Manners and Customs, they are affable, they begin their Dis∣course (chiefly to Relations and Acquaintance) with a friendly Salutation and Kissing: but they are also lazy, and do not esteem the liberal Arts and Sciences, love Idleness better than Labour, for you shall see them spend a whole Day in the Game of Chesse, and other Games, and in

playing on their (Quinterns) Guitarhs which have three, five, seven, and sometimes eleven Strings, as I have seen them with the Musicians of the Bashaw of Aleppo several times: they com∣monly play only with their Fore-finger, or a piece of a Quill, they walk about with them in the Streets (chiefly the Souldiers) all day long, and so use themselves to Laziness and Leachery, and contaminate themselves with all sorts of terrible, and chiefly Sodomitical Sins, which by them (because both high and low are equal∣ly guilty thereof) are not at all punished.

They love to wear good Cloaths (but do not care they should cost them much) of light co∣lours; their upper Garments which hang down very long before, set with Buttons, under which they wear other Coats instead of Doublets, which (commonly those of the Souldiers) are made of blew Cloth, somewhat shorter before then behind, with white Sleeves, and without Collars about the Neck, and so are their Shirts, which generally are wrought of Cotten, and cut about the Neck as wide as their Cloaths: instead of Bands they wear Neck-cloths, which they wrap about their naked Necks to defend them from the violent Heat of the Sun. They also, chiefly in the Summer wear white and wide Cotten Drawers, which reach to their Ancles, and are much narrower below; to them they have no Cod-pieces (which they do not suffer others to wear) that they may wash themselves without hinderance, their Private parts, Feet, Arms, Necks or any other parts, to cleanse themselves as often as their Laws shall direct them. These Drawers they tie about their middle with some Strings or Bands about their naked Body, and let their Shirts hang down o∣ver

them. When they have occasion to make Water, they untie their Drawers again, sit down, and cast their Cloaths round about them like Women, turn themselves from the South, to which they turn when they are going to pray. If they see a Man make his water stand∣ing, they immediately conclude him to be a Christian, and none of their Faith. They com∣monly sit with their Legs laid one over the o∣ther (which they do every where in the East) wherefore they have neither Chair nor Table, but instead thereof, they have a paved place two or three steps high, which is arched over head, which they keep very clean, and cover it with Tapestry, or Serge, or Mats finely twist∣ed with several colours, according to their A∣bility: wherefore to save them, the Turks pull of their Shoes and leave them at the Chamber-door. Their Shoes are like unto those our Lacques use to wear, and like Slippers easie to be put on and off, they commonly are of a white or blew colour, painted before, under∣neath defended with Nails before, and with Horse-shoes behind; these are worn by young and old, Men and Women, rich and poor. Be∣sides these they also wear sometimes wooden Shoes, which are to be sold every where, they are about three Inches high, and in the middle underneath carved out, to distinguish the Soals from the Heels, painted with several colours: the same wear the Women, which have almost the same Garments with the Men, and have al∣so Drawers, which sometimes are so long that they hang out before their Coats: they are commonly made of fine Cotton of several co∣lours, and laced at the sides. You very seldom see any Turkish Women either in the Streets or

in the Markets to buy Provision, or in their Churches, where only the chiefest of them come, (and that but seldom) where they have a pe∣culiar place separated from the Men. They have also in their Houses secret places and cor∣ners, where they hide themselves immediately, if any body should come to see their Housholds. When they go abroad, which is very seldom, you see three or four of them together with their Children, which are all one Man's, for according to their Law they are allowed to take as many as they can maintain. Their Faces are all covered with black Vails, whereof some are of fine Silk, and some of Horse-hair, which the poorer sort wear: and over their Head they put some white Scarfs made of Cotton, which are so broad that they cover not only their Heads but their Arms and Shoulders, they look in them al∣most like our Maids, when to keep themselves from the Wet, they put a Table-cloth or Sheets over their Heads. But because the Turks are very Jealous, therefore their Wives seldom meet in the Streets or Markets, but only in the Hot-houses, or when they go to visit the Tombs of their deceased Parents or Relations, which generally are out of the Town near the High-ways. When they go thither they take along with them Bread, Cheese, Eggs, and the like to eat there (which was called Parentalia by the Latins) just as the Heathens used to do in former Ages: and sometimes they leave some of their Chear behind them, that the Beasts and Birds may eat it after they are gone, for they believe, that such good bestowed upon the Beasts is as accept∣able to God, as if it were bestowed on Men. Their Graves are commonly hollow covered at the top with great Stones, which are like unto

Childrens Bed-steads in our Country, which are high at the head and feet, but hollowed in the middle; they fill them up with Earth, wherein they commonly plant fine Herbs, but chiefly Flags, they also put some green Myrtles in little Air-holes that are round the Tombs, and they are of opinion that their Relations are the happier the longer these remain green, and retain their colour, And for the sake of this Superstition, there are in several places of the Town Myrtles to be sold that stand in Water, that they may remain fresh, which the Women buy to stick up at the Graves of their Relations. Their Burying-places are always out of Town near the High-ways, that any body that goeth by may be put in mind of them, and pray to God for them, which is the reason that so many Chappels are built about their Burying-places, that People that go by (chiefly the Relations of the deceased) may go into them to pray to God on their behalf. When any of them dieth they wash him, and put on his best Cloaths, then they lay him on a Bar or Board, and strow him with Sweet-smelling Herbs and Flowers, leaving on∣ly his Face bare, that every body may look upon him that knoweth him, as he is carried out. If it be a Tschelebii, that is a Noble Per∣son, they put his Helmet and his other Orna∣ments at his Head, his Friends and Acquain∣tance, which go before and follow the Corps, keep no order, but hang upon one another, as if they were fudled, and go merrily, and shout∣ing along to the Grave: as also do the Women, who come behind and hollow so loud, that you may hear them a great way off.

CHAP. IV.

A Description of the Plants I gathered at Tripoli.

COnsidering that I undertook this Journey into the Eastern Countries, not only to see these People, and to observe their Man∣ners, &c. but also, and that principally, dili∣gently to enquire, and to search out the Plants that were growing there. I cannot but shortly describe those I found about Tripoli during my stay there, and will begin with such as grew on the Sea-shores, which were: Medica marina, Gnaphalium marinum, Leucoium marinum, Juncus maritimus, Peplis, Scammonium Monspeliense, which the Natives call Meudheuds; but Rhasis in his Book ad Almans. calleth it Coriziala, Brassica marina, which spreads its Roots above the Sand for some Cubits round, and has instead of round Leaves rather square ones. A kind of wild white Lillies by the Latins and Greeks cal∣led Hemerocallis, which did not only grow on the Sea-shore, but also in Islands thereabout in great plenty; with a great many others, which I forbear to mention here, being common: Be∣hind the Custom-house, near the Harbour, I found in the Ruines of the old Wall that are left of that City, Hyoscyamus, and hard by it in the Sand an Herb not unlike unto Cantabrica secunda Caroli Clusii, saving only the Stalks and Leaves which are woolly. But the Ricinus grow∣eth

there above all in so great plenty, that you can hardly make your way through it, the In∣habitants call it still by its old Arabian Name Kerva.

If you turn from thence to the High-way towards your Right-hand, you see the Tythimalus Paralius, and also a kind of Conyza Diosc. out of one Root there spring up several Stalks, whereof some grow upright, but the greater part of them lie down upon the ground, and so shoot new Roots, which afterwards sprout out into new Stalks: it beareth long Olive-leaves, which are thick, fattish, and somewhat woolly, and have a strong, and equally sweet smell: for the rest, as the Flowers, it is very like unto the great one. You find there also the lesser and greater Medica, which the Moors to this day still call Fasa. Likewise so great and many Squills, that the Inhabitants weed them up, chiefly those that grow near their Gardens, and fling them up in high heaps like Stones. There also groweth Securidaca minor, Tribulus terrestris, by the Inhabitants called Haseck, and a kind of Echium, which groweth by the way as you go to St. Jame's Church, which from thence is si∣tuated upon an ascent at a Mile's distance. Hereabout, and in other adjacent places, groweth a great quantity of Sugar-canes, so that there is year∣ly sold a great many Sugar-loaves that are made thereof. These are as high and big as our Canes, and not much differing from them, but within, and down towards the Root, where they are best, they are full of this pleasant Juice, where∣fore the Turks and Moors buy a great many of them, being very pleasant to them to chew and eat, for they are mightily pleased with Sweet-meats (whereof they have variety.) Before

they begin to eat or chew them, they stript off the long Leaves and cut away what is tasteless, so that only the juicy and good remaineth, which is hardly two Foot. Of the thus pre∣pared Canes they carry many along with them through the Streets, and cut off one piece after another, skale them, and so chew and eat them openly every where in the Street without shame; for they are, principally near the Root, very tender and feel as mellow between your Teeth as if it were Sugar it self. So the Turks use themselves to Gluttony, and are no more so free and couragious to go against their Ene∣mies to fight as they have been in former Ages. The Sugar Canes do not grow there from Seeds, neither are they propagated by the Root, but by the Canes themselves, whereof they lay in∣to the Ground, some green pieces of two or three Joints long, and that they may grow the sooner, they bore prety large holes in between the Joints; when they begin to grow they sprout out in the Joints, and grow up into great Canes, and so bring in good profit.

There also by the Rivers are found Anthillis marina, Visnaga, the first Apocymum, and Olean∣der with Purple Flowers, by the Inhabitants called Defle, and a delicate kind of Scabiosa Me∣lisra Maluca, and if you go to the Gar∣dens, you see Heliotropium majus, Convolvulus folio acuto, Vitis nigra, Phaseolus Turcicus, with yellow Flowers, which still retain the ancient Name of Lubie, Lysimachia lutea, and wild Vines called Labruscae, whereon nothing grow∣eth but only the Flowers called Ocnanthe: and also a Shrub like unto the Polygonus of Carol Clusius; which climbs up into high Trees, and hang down again from the Twigs,

and I very believe they are the same with Ephedra, whereof Pliny maketh mention in the 7th Chapter of his 26th Book.

When I went farther, with an intention to consider the Plants that grew in the Country, first came before me some Sycomors, whereof chiefly Dioscorides and Theophrastus make menti∣on, and tell us of two sorts, and when I called these things to mind, I light of one of the se∣cond sort of Sycomors, whereof abundance grow in Cyprus, wherefore these wild Figg-Trees might be called the one the Cyprish Sycomore-Tree, and the other the Aegyptian Sycomore-Tree, according to the places where they are most frequent and fruitful. I found a great many of them, the Moors and Arabians call them Mumeitz, they are as great and as high as the white Mulberry-Trees, and have almost the same Leaves, but they are only somewhat rounder, and are also whole at or about the sides, they bear Fruit not unlike to our Figg-Trees, only they are sweeter, and have no little Seeds within, and are not so good, wherefore they are not esteemed, and are commonly sold only to the poorer sort of People, they grow in all Fields and Grounds, as you may see by the Words of the second Book of the Chronicles in the 9th. Chap. Vers. 27th. And the King made Silver in Jerusalem as Stones, and Cedar-Trees made he as the Sycomore-Trees that are in the low Plains in abundance. Zacheus did climb upon such a one when he had a great mind to see our Saviour, Essaias also maketh mention of them in his 9th. Chap. Vers. 10. and Amos in his 7th. Chap. Vers. 14. where he saith of himself: I was a Herds-man, and a Gatherer of Sycomore-Fruit.

These two sorts are very like one ano∣ther, in Stem, Leaves, and Fruit, only as the Fruit of the one comes more out of the great Stem and great Twigs, so that of the other does the same, but not out of the Stems and Twigs immediately, but out of Twigs or Sprouts with∣out Leaves of the length of five or six Inches, whereon they grow sometimes very thick, and in a bunch together. These Trees bear Fruit three or four times yearly, which are small, of an Ash colour, oblong round, like Prunes, and are found upon the Trees almost all the Year long. Hereabout also grow many Thorns, whereof is made mention in the Scriptures, by the Inhabitants called Hauseit, and by the Ara∣bians Hausegi, but the Latins call them Ahamnus, and also white Poplars, still to this day called Haur by the Arabians. There also groweth a great and high Tree which beareth delicate Leaves and Flowers pleasant to look upon (by the Inhabitants called Zensetacht, but by Rhazes and Avicenna, Astirgar, & Astergir, and Azada∣racht) whereof you see here and there several planted in the Streets, to make a pleasant Shade in the Summer, the Fruit thereof remaineth upon them all the Year long, until they put out again a new, for they are hurtful, and kill the Dogs if they eat thereof.

Near the Town upon the Highlands (where you see abundance of Corn-fields, and abun∣dance of pleasant Olive-Trees, that reach quite up to Mount Libanus) are found Polium monta∣num, Pecten veneris, ferrum equinum, Chamaeleon niger, with its sharp pointed and black Roots and Leaves, very like unto the Leaves of Car∣lina, whereof the Stalks are of a reddish co∣lour, a Span long, and of the thickness of a

Finger: whereon are small prickly Heads, of a blewish colour, not unlike to these of the little Eryngium. Another fine Plant grows therea∣bout, called Sathar in their Language, but when I consider its beautiful Purple-coloured Flow∣ers, and its small Leaves which are something long withall, I rather judge it to be the Hasce of the Arabians, or the true Thyme of Diosc. which we call Serpillum Romanum. It hath so pleasant an Acrimony, as any Spice can have, wherefore the Inhabitants use it very much, whole or in pouder, at home and abroad, with and without their Meat, chiefly for to correct an ill digestion of their Stomach. This Herb is never found in our Apothecaries Shops, they take another in its room, which hath lesser and greener Heads, and is rather the first Satureia of Diosc. brought from Candia. There are also two sorts of Clinopodium, whereof the lesser and tenderer (considering its long Stalks, Leaves and Flowers, which grow in good order, and at equal distances one over the other) may very well be taken for the true one of the Diosc. There are also Ilex minor, Sabina baccifera, Tere∣binthus and many more.

In the Town are found several strange Plants, one called Musa, whereof the Stalks are from nine to twelve Foot high, which are smooth, and without (they are inclosed in their Leaves, and often quite surrounded like our Reeds) of a fine shining Green; at the top thereof the Leaves spread themselves out, and look like a great bush of Feathers, for they are very long, and so broad that the biggest Person may lie upon them with his whole Body very well. These Leaves have a rib in the middle, which keepeth them up streight, and so strongly, that

although the Wind breaketh them at the sides in several places, yet notwithstanding they re∣main upright. These Trees bear their Fruit no more but once, wherefore they are cut down, and so the Root shoots out several other Stalks about a Foot distant from the old one, which grow up again, and bring forth Fruit, which groweth on a thick Stalk in great num∣bers; they are almost shaped like the Citruls, round and bended, only they are less, smooth without, environed with a thick rind, which is first yellow, but when they are kept a few days it grows black, it is easily separated when they are new, within they are whitish, full of Seeds; sweet and good to eat; but they fill mightily, and are apt to gripe: wherefore (as Theophrastus mentioneth in the 5th. Chapter of his 4th. Book) Alexander the Great, forbid his Army to eat them, when he went into the Indies. There groweth but very little of this Fruit about Tripoli, but it is brought from the Neigh∣bouring places plentifully. We also find there another Tree, not unlike unto our Privett, by the Arabians called Alcanna, or Henne, and by the Grecians in their vulgar Tongue Schenna, which they have from Egypt, where (but above all in Cayro) they grow in abundance. The Turks and Moors nurse these up with great care and diligence, because of their sweet-smelling Flowers, and put them into earthen Pots, or wooden Cases or Boxes, to keep them in the Winter in Vaults from the Frost, which they cannot endure. And because they hardly be∣gin to sprout before August, they water them with Soapsuds, but others lay Lime about the Root, to make it put forth the earlier, that it may flower the sooner, because of the plea∣santness

of the Smell of the Flowers, which is somewhat like Musk: They are of a pale yel∣low colour, and stand in Spikes of the length of a Span, but not very close, so that Leaves appear between them; Their Twigs are also of the same colour, whereof many sent to us, to cleanse the Teeth with them, as it were with a Brush, when they are bruised a little at the ends. They also (as I am informed) keep their Leaves all Winter, which Leaves they pow∣der and mix with the Juice of Citrons, and stain therewith, against great Holydays, their Hair and Nails of their Children of a red co∣lour. Which colour perhaps may be seen with us on the Mains and Tails of Turkish Horses. The Powder is greenish, and so common with them, that you see in their Batzars whole Bags full thereof standing before their Shops, which come from Aegypt and Africa, from whence whole Ship-loads are sent through Turky, as I have seen my self in this Harbour several, from whence the Turkish Emperor hath yearly a great Revenue. The Arabians burn their Spodium out of the Root thereof, as Avicen remarks in his 17th. Chapter. This being thus, it appeareth that there is no small difference between these two, ours and theirs, I am of opinion, that theirs (which is mentioned in the first Chapter of Solomon's Song) is liker to that which Dioscor. describeth, then our Ligustrum.

Thereabout is also found within and without the Gardens a peculiar sort of Mallows, by them called Chethince, which is very large, and high, and like other Trees, spreads its woody Twigs and soft Boughs, that are covered with a brownish Bark; amongst the rest I saw one as big as a Man's middle, the Leaves thereof

are of a dark Green, long, and at the sides to∣wards the point crenated, its Flowers are ra∣ther bigger than other Mallows, of a blew co∣lour, their Seeds I did never see. Hard by I found another Outlandish Doschet Flower, which was almost decay'd, so that it had neither Leaves, Flowers nor Seeds: It was about three Foot high, the Stem and Twigs were hairy, hollow within as other Stalks, of a green co∣lour inclining somewhat to yellow, which had at top many other shoots, each of them had behind like unto other Tree-stems its proper Joint. This is so juicy quite through, that it drops almost with Milk, which is sharper than any Spurge. I made great inquiry of them about it, but could have no certain accompt thereof, but as it seemed to me, it is very like unto Xabra and Camarronus of Rhazes by the Ara∣bians called Tanaghut and Sabeam, and may be ta∣ken according to that Author's description for it.

Further hereabout, chiefly in the Town up∣on the Cisterns and Conduits I found Adian∣tum, by the Apothecaries called Capillus Veneris, and in old Walls the Apollinaris. I also found in the Shops in their Batzare two sorts of Roots, whereof one was rounder, which may be the Bulcigeni of the Venetians, which are called Thrasi at Verona, where they g••w (as the learn∣ed Malthiolus testifieth) many of these are sent out of Aegypt to Tripoli, and sold there, chiefly to eat in June, by the Name of Habel, Assis and Altzis, this being true, and they being very like both in Name and Quality to the Grains of Altzelem of the Arabians, they must be the same, although Rhazis reckoneth these a∣mongst the Fruits. The other called by them Hakinrigi, and Hakeuribi is somewhat longer,

not unlike to our Doronicum, there is also a great many of them to be sold, they are hard, of a sweetish Taste, with a piercing bitterness, and in their bigness, and white Nerves (which spread themselves under ground in the Gardens round about like unto the wild Angelica of Tragus) so like to the Haronigi Serapionis, and to the Durungi and Durunegi of Avicenna, ac∣cording to their Description, and so uniform, that they must be taken for the same. Then I found also in their Shops abundance of the Seeds of Sumach, whereof they make a red Powder, to excite the Appetite of the Sto∣mach. These and more strange and unknown Simples I did find at Tripolis. But because it would be too tedious to describe them all, therefore I have only made mention of those that Authors have described.

CHAP. V.

Which way I travelled from Tripolis further to the two Famous Cities of Damant and Halepo.

AFter I had rested for several Weeks in Tri∣polis, and had observed that City, its Building, and pleasant Situation, and moreover the Manners, Customs, and Habits, as well of the low as high ones, I propounded to my self to Travel to Aleppo, which is almost the biggest, and the most Famous, Trading City of Syria, which lies five or six days Journey towards the North-east of Tripolis. And when I met with some Companions to Travel with me, we sto∣red our selves with Provisions, viz. Bread, Cheese, Eggs, &c. for our Journey, and so set out of Tripolis the 9th. of November, Anno 73.

By the way we met with a great deal of Rain, which commonly begins at that time of the Year, and continueth almost all the Winter long: This kept us so much back, that we reach∣ed not to Damant, which is in the mid-way from Tripolis to Aleppo, before the fourth day. There we lodged in one of their great Champs, called Carvatscharas, where we had a Chamber assigned us, in which we found neither Table, nor Chairs, nor Bench, nor Bed, only upon the Floor was laid a Stromatzo twisted, of Canes, which was to serve us instead of them all. There we bought in their Bazar some Victuals according to our

pleasure, and staid there all Night long. The Town, which some take to be the Old Apamia, is pretty big, and pretty well built; it lies in a Valley between Hills, so that you can see no∣thing of it (the Castle only excepted, which lyeth on the Hill, and guardeth it very well) before you are just come to it. Round about it there is many Orchards and Kitchen-Gardens, which they Water out of the River Hasce, which is pretty large, and runs through the Town. The Water they lift up with Wheels for that purpose fixed in the River, that pour it into Channels that carry it into the Gardens, and so Water them in the great heat of the Sun, to refresh them. These Gardens had been worth my seeing, but my Fellow-Travellers were in hast, and so we put on the next Morning for Aleppo.

By the way we saw very good Corn-Fields, Vineyards, and Fields planted with Cotton, which is brought from thence, and sold to us under the Name of the place where it grew, and also Silks and other Goods that are bought there at the first hand. In these Countries are a great many Wild Asses called Onagri, the Skins of them are very strong to wear, and as they prepare them, finely frockt on the out∣side, as Strawberries are, or like the Skin of the Sepia, or Cuttle-Fish, wherefore they commonly make their Scabbards for their Scymitars, and Sheaths of their Knives thereof. Their Blades are watered on both sides very subtilly; they are made of good Metal, well hardened, and so sharp (chiefly these that are made in Damas∣cus) that you may cut with them a very strong Nail in pieces, without any hurt to the Blade. They wear rather Knives than Daggers, which

they tye to their Girdles with finely wrought Tapes, by their backs.

When we went on and came to the Pro∣montory of Mount Libanus, we saw abundance of Villages by the way, which for the most part are inhabited by Christians, viz. Syrians, Maronites, &c. with whom we did Lodge some∣times over-night; these entertained us very ci∣villy, and gave us such Wine to drink, as grew on the Mountains, than which I hardly remem∣ber I ever drank better. Amongst the rest of the Villages we came to one called Hanal, ly∣ing high in a Fruitful Country, where, as I am informed, in former days a very fine City stood, which is so desolated, and in process of time decayed to that degree, that in our days there is almost nothing of it left but a small Village, and here and there in the Fields some small Ruins of Old Houses.

We went on further between the Mountains, where we spied a little Town upon the Hills, and above it a strong Castle, which it's said the French did formerly build, that lyeth in a very convenient place between the Mountains, so that you must go just by it; but because it is haunted with Evil Spirits and Hobgoblins, it re∣maineth unrepaired, and uninhabited. We left it on our left hand, and came out into a spaci∣ous Corn-Field well tilled, where on our left we saw the Town Sermin at a great distance, and near to it and about it, great Woods of Pistacio-Trees, which are gathered there, and sent to Tri∣polis, and so by the Merchants to us: Some of them grow also near the High-ways, chiefly in the Village of Basilo, where we stayed all Night.

In our way we found nine or ten Champs cal∣led Caravatscharas, these are open Inns, where the Caravans and Travellers go in, commonly towards Evening, to stay there all Night; they are free to any body, but you find neither Meat nor Drink there, if you will have it you must bring it along with you, and must be contented to lye upon Straw (if you can have it) upon the lower Wall, which goes round about the sides, on purpose to give to Horses, Asses, and Camels their Food upon it. They are general∣ly three Miles distant from one another; they are large and stately, and as strong in Walls as Castles, commonly built four-square, and have within a large Yard, and round about it are Stables which are quite open, just like Cloisters. Some of them have a Garrison of Nine or Twelve Janisaries, to keep the Roads clean, and to protect the Travellers from Assaults of the Inhabitants and Arabians.

When we had travelled over several rough Mountains, and came almost near to Halepo, we saw at last the City just like Damand, of the bigness of Strasbourg; at the Gates we dis∣mounted, because in Turky no Outlandish Man hath liberty to Ride through a City; and so we went into it, and I went into the French Fundique to take my Lodgings, as all Germans use to do.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Situation of the Potent City of Ha∣lepo, of the Buildings thereof, and also of the delicate Fruits, and fine Plants, that grow there within and without Gar∣dens,

THE Town of Halepo (which is the great∣est and most Potent in Syria, anciently called Nerea) is in some places well Fortified with Ditches and Walls, only they are not quite round it, so that one may (the same it is with Tripolis) at any time of Night go in and out: Neither are the Gates, as used in our Country, chiefly in Cities of Account, beset with Soul∣diers, but you will only see two or three wait∣ing at the Head-Gates, where the High-ways go through, which are rather there to take Custom, than to keep the Gates, neither have they any Arms. But in the middle of the City there is a Castle on a high Hill, which is strong, large, surrounded with Walls and Ditches, and well beset with a good Guard. Concerning their other Buildings (which are flat at the top, and covered with a sort of Pavement, that one may walk on the tops of them) they are like unto them of Tripolis. Amongst the rest there is a very Magnificent Building, which they say hath cost a great deal of Money, which hath for its Entrance a very low and small Door, so that one must bend himself very low that will

go into it, but when you come in, you find there delicate large Halls, high open Arches, (very pleasant and cool to sit underneath in the Sum∣mer) Water-works, Orchards, and Kitchen-Gardens, where among the rest was one of these Ketmy's: Besides these there was also some fine Mosques with Steeples, which were round and small, but very high; some of them had a Balcony at the top, like unto a Garland, where∣upon the Waits are, and their Priests go about at the time of Prayers, to call People in. But for other stately Buildings, that might be ere∣cted for the Memory of some Potent King or Prince, there is none.

Without the City they have here and there some Country-Houses, among the rest one built for the Turkish Emperour, at four Miles distance from the City, where he used to be sometimes, chiefly when he is at War with the Sophy, King of Persia, that he may presently assist his Army, in case of Necessity: This is very large, but not built so stately as so great a Monarch de∣serveth. In the great Garden is a Chappel built by the River that runs through it, upon Pillars, where the Great Sultan used to hold Conferences with his Privy-Councellors and Visier-Bashaws. It happened in the Reign of Solyman the Great, (as the Gardiner did relate to us) that when they were assembled, to consult whether it was more profitable to him, to suffer the Jews in his Provinces, or to root them quite out: After every one had given his Opinion, and the most of them were of the Opinion, that they ought not to be tolerated, because of their insufferable Usury, wherewith they oppressed his Subjects: And after the Emperour had heard every ones Sentiment, he gave them also to understand his,

and that in this instance, viz. He bad them look upon a Flower-Pot, that held a quantity of fine Flowers of divers colours, that was then in the Room, and bid them consider whether each of them in their colour, did not set out the other the better; and that if any of them should decay, or be taken away, whether it would not somewhat spoil the Beauty of the rest. After every one had heard the Sultan's Opinion, and did allow of it to be true; the Emperour did begin to explain this, and said, The more sorts of Nations I have in my Do∣minions under me, as Turks, Moors, Grecians, &c. the greater Authority they bring to my King∣doms, and make them more famous. And that nothing may fall off from my Greatness, I think it convenient, that all that have been together so long hitherto, may be kept and tolerated so still for the future; which pleased his Council so well, that they all unanimously agreed to it, and so let it remain as it was. Without the City of Halepo, are abundance of Quarries, where they dig great Free-stones of a vast big∣ness, almost as white and soft as Chalk, very proper for Building: There are also about the Town some Walks or Grotto's under Ground, which are above an English Mile long, which have the Light let into them by holes made near the High-way, so that a Man must be ve∣ry careful, (chiefly at Night) that he may not fall into them, or that he may not be trapan'd by the Moors that live in them in great numbers. The Ground about it being very Chalky, it causeth to the soles of our Feet, chiefly at Night, although one be very well provided with strong shooes, a very considerable dryness and heat, as one may also see by the Moors, that, for the most part, go bare-foot, which causeth the soles

of their Feet to be so shrifled, that into some of their crevises you may almost put your little Finger. Yet notwithstanding that, Halepo is sur∣rounded with Rocky Hills, and the Valleys thereof are Chalky; they have no want of Corn, as Barley, Wheat, &c. but rather it is very Fruitful, and their Harvest beginneth com∣monly in April or May: But they have but few Oats, and less Grass or Hay; for the dryness is so great, and it is so Sandy, and the Hills are so rough and full of Bushes, that they make but very little Hay. Wherefore they feed their Cattel with Barley, and with Straw, which is broken in pieces by threshing Waggons, that are drawn by Oxen. The Valley is also full of Olive-Trees, so that Yearly they make se∣veral Thousand Hundred Weight of Oyl for to make Soap. There is also a great quantity of Tame and Wild Almond-Trees, of Figgs, of Quince, and white Mulberry-Trees, which are very high and big: Pistacies-Trees, which they call Fistuc, are hereabout very common; they have underneath very strong stems, which have outwardly an Ashen-colour'd Bark, and are a∣dorned with handsome Leaves of a sad green colour, like unto their Charnubis, and behind them grow many small Nuts like Grapes in Clusters together. In the Spring when they first put out, they send forth long shoots, which the Moors gather in great quantity for their Sallad, and dress them as we do Asparagus. There are also abundance of delicate Orchards, that are filled with Oranges, Citrons, Lemons, Adams-Apples, Sebesten, Peaches, Morelloes, and Pomgra∣nats, &c. and amongst them you find sometimes Apples and Pears, but very few, nor so many sorts, nor so big, nor so well coloured as ours.

There grow many Mirtles, which bear roundish Berries of the bigness of our Sorbus or Services, of a blewish Grey colour, very good to eat, which have white Seeds of the shape of our jumping Cheese-magots, they propagate them diligently, because they are beautiful, and re∣main long green, to put about their Graves. More∣over there are many Sumach-Trees, which they plant for their Seeds sake, which is much used by them: But Cherries, Amelanchier and Spenleny I have not seen there, and very few Gooseber∣ries, or Currans: Weychseln they have, but very few, wherefore they esteem them, and keep them choice, as a Foreign Plant, to shew them to others, and to present great Persons with them. This may suffice of Trees. Concern∣ing their Garden Plants, those that are com∣mon, are Endives, Lettice, Kel or Coleworts, Colliflowers, Caulorapa Rauckelen Apium, Tar∣con whereof Rhases describeth two sorts, one with long small Leaves, by us called Taragon, and the other with broad Leaves, which I reckon to be our Lepidium, by the Inhabitants called Cozirihan. Ravos Serap: or our Hartichokes. But beyond all they plant Colocasia in such plenty, as we do Turneps, whereof they have also great plenty. They are also very well pro∣vided with Horse-raddishes, Garlick and Oni∣ons, which the Inhabitants still call Bassal. Of Pumpions, Citruls, and Cucumis anguinus (which they call Gette) they plant as many as they have occasion for; but many more Angurien an In∣dian Muskmillion, (Water-mellons) which they call Batiechas, but Serap. Dullaha, they are large, of greenish colour, sweet and pleasant to eat, and very cooling, wherefore they esteem them to be their best Fruits: but chiefly those, which

have more red than white within, they are very innocent and harmless, and keep so long good, that they sell them in their Batzars all the Winter long. Moreover, there are three sorts of those Plants which the Arabians call Me∣lanzana, Melongena, and Beudengian, as Ash co∣loured, Yellow and Flesh coloured, which are very like one another in their Crook∣edness and Length, and like unto the long Gourds. There are two other sorts, which are called Bathleschain, viz. oblong and round ones, which are much bigger, of a black colour, and so smooth and glazed, that they give a Reflection. They eat these oftener, boiled (chiefly after the way which Averrhöes mentioned) than raw. Without their Gardens are two o∣ther strange Plants, which also (being they eat them commonly with others) may be reckon∣ed among the Kitchin-Herbs: whereof one is called by them Secacul, which I found about the Town in shady places, and among Trees, and in the Corn, its Roots are of an Ashen co∣lour without, and white within, smooth, mel∣low, or tender, of one Inch thick, and one and a half long, it hath instead of Fibers, little knobs like unto Warts, and a sweet taste, not unlike to our Carrots in Stalk, Herb or Head, saving only the Flowers which are yellow; the Herb-women carry them strung upon Strings about the Streets to sell them. The other sort is also very plentiful, and is found in dry and rough places, which the Inhabitants to this day with Serapio called Hacub, whereof he maketh mention in his 295 Chapter, under the Name of Hacub Alcardeg, whereof they cut in the Spring, the young Shoots or Sprouts that grow round about it, boil and eat it as we do Sparagus,

corruptly called Sparrowgrass, the whole Plant is very like to our Carlina, only this hath bigger, higher and more prickly Heads, whereon ap∣pear Flesh-coloured Flowers. It being that it is every way like it, and that also the Root hath the same Vertue, for if you steep it in Water, and drink of it, it maketh you vomit and fling up; therefore I am of opinion, that without doubt it must be, the true Silybum Dio∣scoridis: Besides this there grow also in the Road, and on old Walls, such plenty of Capers, that they are not at all esteemed; they take these Flowers before they open, and pickle them, and eat them for Sauce with their Meat. I had al∣most forgot another Herb, which I found in their Gardens, that beareth roundish smooth Stalks about two Foot high, the Leaves are two and two equally distant from one another, and one above the other, they are long, crenated at the sides, like unto our Mercurialis; between them sprout out in harvest time yellow Flowers, which produce long aculeated Cods, which open themselves when they are ripe, within them are six distinctions, and in each of them little black Seeds placed in very good order: the Herb is of a sower taste, like Sorrel, wherefore it is to every body (chiefly the Jews) known, which boil the Leaves thereof with their Meat to eat them: Wherefore some take it to be Olus Judaicum Avicennae, and others take it for Corchorum Plinii, whether it be or no I suspend my Judgment.

They have abundance of Pulses in these Coun∣tries, which they feed upon, so that you see several in their Batzars which sell nothing else but them. Among the rest you will find abun∣dance of Phaseoli, or Kidney Beans, little and great ones, very white; and many sorts of Cicer,

which they call Cotane, and with Avicenna Ha∣mos. Whereof they have as many as we have Pease in our Country, and boil them for their daily Food, and oftentimes they eat them raw, chiefly if they be roasted till the outward Shell falls off, they often call for them thus dressed, when they are a drinking in their Coffee-houses, and have them brought to Table with Cheese after their Meals instead of Preserves, or Fruit, as Cibebs, Hasel-nuts and the like, for they eat very mellow, and have a fine saltish Taste. They dress the Orobus after the same manner, which they call now Ades and Hades, but whe∣ther right or no I leave to the Learned, they are somewhat less and rounder, and not unlike the Cicers in their colour, only that these are reddish and white, and the other white and yellow. These put me still in mind of another strange Plant, by the Arabians called Mas, whose Leaves and Cods are prety like our Phaseolus, and the Cods contain little round Seeds something less than our Pease, of a dark green colour, and are so smooth and shining that they reflect again. Serapio maketh men∣tion of them in his 116 Chapter under the Name of Mes. And Avicennas in his 488 Chap∣ter under the Name Meisce; and the very lear∣ned and experienced Botanist Carolus Clusius calleth it in his Epitome of the Indian Plants by the Name of Mungo. The Turks love these Pulses very well, chiefly to eat them among their Rice. So much I thought convenient to mention here of their Kitchin-Herbs and Fruits that grow in Gardens and about Halepo; of o∣thers that belong not to the Kitchin I shall make mention hereafter.

In this City of Aleppo, the Merchants buy great store of Drugs brought from several parts by the Caravans, as Rheubarb, Galbanum, Opoponax, Styrax, Laser, Sagapenum, Scammo∣ny, &c.

CHAP. VII.

Of the high Places and Authority of Ba∣shaws, what great Courts they keep, and how they administer their Offices; as also of their way of living, of their Privi∣ledges, of their Manners and Conver∣sation.

THE City of Halepo (which some conside∣ring the Name and Situation believe to be the Town Chalibon of Ptolomaeus situated in Chalibonitis) is subject unto the Turkish Emperor, together with all the adjacent places, where∣fore he keepeth a Bashaw in it, which is to rule it, and the whole Province according to his Will and Pleasure. Now as the Bashaws are almost the chiefest and highest under the Em∣peror, so they keep according to their Station and Dignity, their Courts as great as the Princes do in our Country (according as they have great or small Provinces. So they have under them their chief Commanders, as Sangiacks, Bolucs-bashaws and others, which are continually with them go with them to their Temples, or any other place where-ever they have a mind to go, in great

flocks, both on Foot, and on Horse-back, which by their several Habits are to be distinguished, but chiefly the Bolucsbashaw, which as Captains have an Hundred Janisaries under them, which in costly Cloaths, and high Heads with Feathers, run on Foot like Lacqueys by their Master. They have also besides their Court, as well as the Emperour himself, peculiar Lodgings for their Concubines, which they either have pick'd up here and there out of Towns and Countries, or else taken in time of War by Sea and Land from Christians and other Nations; wherefore they keep many Eunuchs to attend them con∣stantly. They take great delight in Hunting, and go often several Days Journeys after it: If they take Wild Boars, they give them (because they are by their Laws forbid to eat them) to the Christians, which maketh the Turks often to mock them in the Streets, crying out and calling them Chansir quibir, that is, great Boars or Hog-eaters. Although the Bashaws are great Persons, that Command over Cities and Coun∣tries, yet they are rckoned to be, like others, but Slaves to their Master, that have nothing of their own, that they can bequeath to their Heirs or Posterity after their decease, as our Princes can, because the Emperour after their decease taketh Possession of all their visible Estates, and allows only to their Children an Annuity: Nay, if their Sultan Commands them to go from one place to an Inferiour one, or to leave their Dig∣nity quite and clean, they must obey immedi∣ately, if they will not run themselves into greater Inconveniencies or Dangers. This is the Reason that such Persons, although Rich, seldom build great Buildings, so that you see none in all the Country, except it be a Chap∣pel,

or a Champ, which they build to be re∣membred by: They rather keep their Riches in Gold and Silver, which can be hid, and so secretly given to their Posterity. They bestow but very little upon Jacks, for they are too Covetous, neither have they many Work-men that are able to set them. These Bashaws being altogether for their own Advantage, that strive to get Wealth, their Subjects must needs suffer very much under them, but chiefly Stran∣gers, that live there to Traffick, as Italians, French∣men, &c. whereby between them and the Ba∣shaws (that mind their own and not the Pub∣lick Good) arise often great Differences, and they must have suffered great damage, if their Soveraigns, to prevent these things, and that their Subjects may deal securely, had not ta∣ken care to send them discreet and prudent Men, which are called Consuls, endued with great Priviledges from the Grand Signior, to hear their Complaints, and to protect them against any Assaulters. It happened in my time, while I staid there, that great Differences arose be∣tween the Consul of Venice, and the new Bashaw, who was sent thither, instead of the deceased one, in the Year 75. the 6th. day of March, who came in to take Possession with a great number of Horse and Foot. At his Arrival the Consul of Venice went (accompanied with a great number of Merchants in great State) to meet him, to bid him Welcom, and presented him with Fourteen Cloaths Richly wrought of Silk, desiring him to take his Country-men into his Protection, that they might Trade and deal safely under him. The Bashaw looking upon the Cloaths, behaved himself very unkindly, and looking upon them to be very inconside∣rable,

he not only refused them, but answered the Consul very scornfully. So it often happens that these great Persons come to differ, and pur∣sue their Differences so far, that at last it must be brought before the Emperour and his Court. If they find that the Bashaw is in the wrong, he is immediately punished (not regarding his great Authority) according to the default, ei∣ther in Money, or else, if it be a great Crime, he must lose his Life for it; which is the oftner done, because they depend very much upon Traffick, which bringeth the Emperour in year∣ly a very great Revenue. Yet notwithstand∣ing they are punished so severely sometimes, the Pride and Ambition of the Bashaws is so great, that to uphold their Greatness, they will not cease to strive by any means after Riches and great Wealth, which their Subjects (not to speak of Strangers) find daily, whom they squeeze and press, chiefly if they find them Rich, to that degree, that they cannot come to any thing, nor thrive under them: More∣over they draw, after the decease of their Rich Subjects, for the most part, the greatest share of what they leave, into their own Purses; so that such Persons do not take Pains, nor bestow any great Cost to build their Houses, or to till their Grounds, as we do in our Country. They have commonly in Market-Towns and Villages, low Houses or Halls, whereof many are so covered with Hills, that you cannot see them, before you are quite at them. When you come into them, you find neither Chairs, nor Stools, nor Tables, only a couple of pieces of Tapestry spread, whereon they sit after their fashion; and instead of Feather-Beds (whereof they make no use at all) they have Mats and Quilts,

which they fold together in the Day, and hang them up in a corner, at Night they spread them out again to sleep on them: They have no oc∣casion for Sheets, to cover themselves as we do, nor for any Towels neither, for instead of them they use long pieces of Rags, which they hang about their naked Necks, or hang them at their Girdles. We see sometimes in their Houses, above all in the Country, several strange-shaped Earthen Vessels, which cover whole sides of the Wall in their Rooms, which their Relations use to Present them with at their Wedding, which to please them, they use to put up, and to keep there, rather for their Remembrance, than to make any other use of them. In their Kitchen they have very few Utensils, perhaps a few Pipkins, Pans, and Trenchers, for they boyl all their Victuals in one Pot together, that their Maids may not have many to cleanse, or to put up.

Concerning their Cloaths, they bestow not very much upon them, although they be well to pass, for they love Money so well, that they will rather spend a whole day in contending for a Penny, than pay it willingly: Wherefore a Man that will Travel through these Countries, must have his Purse well stored, and keep it very close, that no body may know its worth, but chiefly he must have a care of the Jews, which are not to be trusted, if you will escape great danger: They will not only do nothing for you without Reward, but if they suspect you to have any Money, they will endeavour to get it from you. Wherefore those that take a Pilgrimage into the Holy Land, and go in pitiful Cloaths, are not much troubled by them. The Courtiers of the Bashaws, and amongst the

rest chiefly the Eunuchs and Dwarfs, &c. where∣of they have several, go in their Taffety and Sattin Cloaths, which are long, and very well trimmed, wherewith their Master furnisheth them, being Gifts from others, which he distri∣buteth among them. The Souldiers, Spahees, Janisaries, &c. commonly have blew woollen Cloaths from the Court, and they live of their Pay, that is, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 Medins, (which are abut three Farthings apiece) more or less (ac∣cording as their Places are) which are paid them daily, as well in Peace as in War-time: If they can get any thing else, by Excursions and Fighting, from their Enemies, it is well for them. The Souldiers commonly wear white Turbants on their Heads, and so do all Turks, and put painted Paper underneath them, chiefly when they go into the War, believing if they wear them they cannot be hurt nor wounded. On their Turbants they commonly wear Cranes Feathers, that others may believe them to be Valiant Souldiers, and that by their Number People may guess that either they have been in so many Campagnes, or else killed so many Christians. Besides these Turbants the Janisa∣ries have also Hats with high Crowns, called Zarcellas, made of white Felt, which they wear instead of Helmets, when they are in waiting, or go out to the War, these have before on the fore-head a gilded Sheath, set without with Gra∣nats Rubies, Turkey-stones, and other Jewels, (yet of no great value) wherein they put their Feathers. They (and also other Turks and Moors) let no Hair grow upon their Heads, but as soon as it grows they shave it again, only behind they keep a lock, which hangs down a pretty way: They let their Beards grow now,

which they used formerly to cut off, so that now for some Years they have worn huge great Mustachies. In War time they carry Musquets, and in Peace (chiefly when they are in waiting) their long Poles. They are also allowed to Marry, and besides their Wives, to keep any they take Prisoners in the War, or else to sell them to any body. When they are at home they are great lovers of Wine, and when they can come at it, that no body sees them, they will drink more without mixture than any other Nation: But in time of War, when they are in Expedition, they can live very sparingly, and will March all day long before they will Refresh themselves. Yet to speak the truth, these, and almost all Souldiers (because they are as well paid in Peace as in War) are no more so ready to take the Field, and to change a quiet Life for a troublesome one, or a secure one for a dangerous, as they they have been in former Ages, being used to Laziness for a great while together. Besides the Power and Strength of the Turks is reckoned much inferiour to that of the Christians, for we are better armed with Musquets and Pikes, to keep them off at a di∣stance, that they may not be able to come in with us to Club-Law, and so over-power us; for if their Enemy doth not give way at the first On-set, they turn their backs and run a∣way. But that notwithstanding all this, we gain nothing from the Turks, but they rather from us; the reason is (not to mention our manifold Transgressions) rather our great Di∣visions and Contentions, which hinder us from going out with such an Army as is necessary, and we might otherways do. Wherefore the Turks come out the bolder, to frighten and to

plague us, and make use of all sorts of Strata∣gems, to amuse us, or to draw us into an Am∣bush, by pursuing them, and when they think we are almost tired, they fall upon us with a multitude of fresh Men, to surround and to beat us. Nor do they value it, if they lose one Regiment or another, because there is enough of them, and they know how to have in the room of the Slain others again that will be ve∣ry glad (because of their Pay that they receive daily of their Prince out of his Provinces) to accept of it. It being then so that he doth not only maintain his own Provinces, but rather gains others, and enlarges his Dominions daily, we ought to be very careful; for the more he increaseth, the more we are in danger. Thus he taketh one Town, Country, or Kingdom after another with his Sword, as we have seen hitherto in Europe (not to mention any thing of Asia) not without great detriment and damage to all Christians. So he cometh daily the longer the nearer to us, that at length we must expect no better Success than Greece, Thra∣cia, Servia, Bosnia, Hungary, and Wallachia, &c. which are brought into Slavery, under which some Persons of Quality still groan to this day. So I found at Aleppo an Ancient Queen of Wal∣lachia with her Sons, whereof the Youngest was born after the King his Father's Death, who is maintained by a very small Allowance from the Turkish Emperour. She is a very discreet Woman, and well skill'd in the Turkish and Arabian Lan∣guages. Her Subjects still hope for her, that God Almighty will restore her to them again, that so their Slavery may have an end.

After the Turks have obtained a great Victo∣ry, they lift up their Hands, thank and praise God, and the Prophet Mahomet, God Almighty's dearly beloved Messenger, and pray further, that God may send Differences and Quarrels among us (that are against the Book Jugilis, as they call it, that is, the Book of the Gospel) that the Magistrates may quarrel with the Subjects, and the Clergy with the Seculars, that from thence may arise such Disorders, that we may go on to transgress the Laws of God still more and more; that our Belief in Messias may be ex∣tinguished, and that all good Orders and Poli∣cies may be dissolved: So that God may take from thence occasion to make them further our Punishers to afflict us. And when they see that the Rich Men Oppress the Poor, that the Ma∣gistrates do not Protect the Just and Innocent, but that the Chief and Heads do strive to ruin one another, then they rejoyce at our Misfor∣tune and Misery, and do not fear us in the least to do them any Mischief (which might easily be done if we were unanimous) but rather threaten what Mischief they will do us.

When the Turks have taken a strong Town, or a whole Country by the Sword, that they may keep them the easier in Subjection without a great Garrison, Pains, or Danger, they Demo∣lish the places that are not very strong, and send away the Nobility and Chief Persons, which otherwise might do them a great deal of Mis∣chief; and in the room of these they bring in Sangiacks, with their Souldiers, to keep the strong places, and to take care of the Empe∣rour's Revenue. So that in these places there is no Nobility, that come from any Ancient Races, and have their own Estates Hereditary and De∣scending

from Heir to Heir: Which one may also suppose when he considereth that the Law of Mahomet alloweth to those that adhere to it, to have four Wives at a time, besides Concu∣bines, or Slaves as many as they please: I will say nothing of the Liberty they have to Divorce them upon any small Occasion, and to take others in their room; from whence flow such Disorders and Uncertainties, that very few Chil∣dren know who are their Parents, and so there is but little Love shewn between them as one may easily suppose. And this is no Disgrace to them, but rather reputed to be an Honour, be∣cause they conclude from thence that those that keep many Wives, behave themselves diligently according to their Laws: Wherefore they sooner trust them, prefer them before others, in Places and Salaries, and esteem them to be true Tsche∣lebiis, that is, Noble-men. Although these and other Turks have several Wives, that are not all equal in their Birth and Extraction, yet they all have in Family Affairs their equal share and power, and they all are equally provided for, with Meat, Drink, Cloaths, &c. and they have also their Work and Business equally among them: And that because they bring their Hus∣band no Portion, but he must rather buy them from their Parents, sometimes for a considerable Sum of ready Money, and give them Cloaths and other Necessaries to boot: Wherefore the Matrimonial tye (which they call Chebia) is more in the power of the Husband than the Wife, so that he may Marry one three times and reject her again; but further he must not go, except he will be accounted a scandalous base Fellow: As you may perceive by the words of the Turkish Emperour Bajazet, which he

did send to Temyry, who is also called Tamerlan, saying, that he had better to take a Wife again after he was three times divorced from her, than to go to War with him; which scornful Lan∣guage he might well have forborn: For Tamer∣lan did not only beat him in a cruel and bloody Battle, but took him Prisoner, and carried him about in an Iron Cage like a Wild Beast of the Forest.

But that I may return from whence I digres∣sed, the Marriages of the Turks are never look'd upon to be ratified before they are married by one of their Priests. Their Wives must agree together, and live peaceably and amicably, and must not resist their Husbands, except he ma∣keth inequality among them: If any should ap∣pear (which happens very often) they do not forbear to complain of their Husband to the Cadi or Judge. So that daily very strange Tran∣sactions (which are not strange to him) come before him: If so be that the Husband is con∣victed, and the Wife absolved, they are divor∣ced immediately in the same hour.

The Turkish Women are pretty handsom, and well shaped, very Civil in their Discourses, and other Behaviour: When any of them is mar∣ried, and carried to her Bridegroom's House, their Relations go along with her, that are in∣vited, to the Wedding, and begin to make a noise immediately in the Streets, and extol their Voices more and more as they go along, that you may hear them a great way off.

The Turks that are of some Condition, and rich and able Men, have at their Weddings se∣veral Diverting Shews; in the Day-time they have Dancing, Running, Actings, Singing; Jump∣ing, and Leaping, and Dancing on the Ropes, &c.

After Sun-set, and at Night, they let off Rockets, and Fire-works of several sorts, made artifici∣ally. These are let off in publick and open places, that every one may see them, and they last often till break of Day. The Rope-dancers have three Ropes one above the other, whereof the uppermost is the longest; upon every one of them they have their peculiar Lessons, which they perform exactly and dexterously, with Dancing, Jumping, Running, Gesticulating, go∣ing upon Stilts, &c. which is pleasant to look upon. Their Children when they are married, soon forget their Parents, they dare not see them again in a great while, nor do they desire to do it.

When they have Children born, they do not justly Circumcise them on the Eighth Day, but let them be 8, 9, or 10 Years old, until they can make their Confession: There are some, chiefly among the Arabians, that imitate their Patriarch Ishmael, who was not circumcised un∣til the Thirteenth Year of his Age. It is com∣monly performed in the House of their Parents. If Rich Mens Sons are circumcised, they make a Feast, and roast a whole entire Bullock, into his Belly they put a Wether, and into his Belly a Pullet, into the Pullet's Belly an Egg, and so they roast them all together, what remaineth they give to the Poor. When the Children grow up, and begin to go, they cloath them in loose flying Coats, of fine Stuff, woven of several colours, which are pleasant to look upon; and they put upon the Heads of those that are not yet circumcised, coloured Caps, which are wrought with Flowers, and very common to be sold in their Batzars. After they are circum∣cised, they begin to wear white Turbants, which

are made of Cotton, and rolled about their Caps after a peculiar manner, and are common∣ly Twenty Yards long.

They have still another strange Custom, which Young and Old, Men and Women use in these Countries, viz. They make a thin Paste of Galls and calcined Copperas, (to beautifie themselves, and to keep their Eyes from Rheums) with it they blacken their Lips, and make a Ring round about their Eyes, in the same man∣ner as our Ring-doves have about their Necks. These Paintings they have had Anciently, and some of them they have prepared of Stibium or Antimony: Of these Paintings of the Eye we read in several places, chiefly (that I may not mention others) in the 23d. Chap. of Ezekiel, the 40 Verse, where the Lord says, by the Pro∣phet, And lo, they came, for whom thou didst wash thy self, paintedst thy Eyes, and deckedst thy self with Ornaments.

Concerning the Education of their Youth, they only learn in Schools to Read, and to write the Arabian Alphabet, the Characters or Letters whereof are common both to the Turks and Arabians, although their Languages are very differing: Besides these, there are other Schools, wherein the Young Men are Instructed in the Emperour's Laws, and those that go on in their Learning, and take it well, are soon called to high Offices, (as Cadi's and Cadileschiers.) But in Liberal Arts and Sciences, such as we teach in our Countries, they are not Instructed, for they have not only none of these Learned Men, but esteem learning of these Sciences a Super∣fluity, and loss of Time; they rather love old Rhimes, and Ballads that speak of and com∣mend the Mighty Deeds of their Ancient Em∣perours,

and other Champions; or other Fan∣cies that make Foreign Nations, or any of their Enemies ridiculous: And such things they put either themselves into Rhimes, or else hear those that have been put into Rhimes by others al∣ready, which they say daily with peculiar Actions, out of Town in pleasant Greens, (where also other Divertisements are performed with Singing, Dancing, Leaping, &c.) So that they are rather pleased with the Reading of these frivolous silly Writings, than to learn Arts and Sciences: Which you may evidently see, in that they do not esteem, nor will admit of that Noble Art of Printing Books, that might inform them in any thing: Which the Clerks, whereof there is a great number up and down in the Cities, like very well, because they daily take a great deal of Money for the Writings of their Pro∣phet Mahomet and others, which maketh them generally very Rich, and wear greater Turbants than the rest, that they may be distinguished from others. Their Paper is generally smoothed and glazed, and they comprehend their Letters in very few Words: When they will make them up, they fold them up until they come to be no broader than an Inch, the outward crevise of the Paper they fill all along with Wax with∣in, and so glue it as it were to the other, or else they take any other Paste made for that purpose, and so imprint their Name upon it with their Seal that is done over with Ink, so that nothing remaineth white but the Letters: These Seals are generally made at Damasco, where the best Artists live that cut in Steel, and they put no∣thing more in it but their Name. They do not make any use of Paper that is writ on, although they have great quantity thereof, neither to put

things up in, nor for any other use, and yet if they find any of it in the Street, they do not let it lye, but take it up carefully, fold it toge∣ther, and put it into the next crevise they meet with, for they are afraid that the Name of God may be written on it: Instead thereof the Gro∣cers make use of great Leaves of Colocasia, where∣of they have great store.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the great Trading and Dealing of the City of Halepo; as also of several sorts of their Meats and Drinks, of their Cere∣monies, and their peculiar way of sitting down at Meals.

HAving heretofore treated of the Buildings and Situation of that Excellent Town of Halepo; and of the Customs, Manners, and Offices of the Turks, as much as I could appre∣hend of it, I cannot but speak, before I leave it, of the Dealings and Merchandisings that are daily exercised there, which are admirably great. For great Caravans of Pack-Horses and Asses, but more Camels arrive there daily, from all Foreign Countries, viz. from Natolia, Armenia, Aegypt, and India, &c. with Convoys, so that the Streets are so crouded, that it is hard to pass by one another. Each of these Nations have their peculiar Champ to themselves, commonly named after their Master that built it, viz. Champ Agemi, Champ Waywoda, Champ Abrac, Sibeli,

Mahomet's Bashaw, and which are kept for them, that they may make them their Inns, and live in them, and to keep or sell their Merchandises according to their pleasure. So among the rest of the Nations there are French-men and Italians, &c. which have also there their peculiar Build∣ings (which, as is before said, are called Fun∣diques) wherein some live together, and others (chiefly the Italians that are married) live with∣out in Lodgings; they have very small Habita∣tions, and live sparingly like the Turks. In these Champs you meet with several sorts of strange Merchandises, before all in Champ Agami, where you have all sorts of Cotton-works, viz. Hand∣kerchiefs, long Fillets, Girdles, which they roll a∣bout their Loins and Heads, and other sorts, by the Arabians called Mossellini (after the Country Mussoli, from whence they are brought, which is situated in Mesopotamia) by us Muslin; with these do the Turkish Gentlemen Cloath themselves in Summer. There is delicate Tapestry, Arti∣ficially wrought with all manner of colours, such as are sometimes brought over by us. From Persia they bring great quantity of an unknown Manna in Skins, by the name of Trunschibil, which is gathered from a prickly Shrub, called by the Arabians, Agul and Albagi, which is the reason that it is mixt with small Thorns and reddish Chaff. This Manna hath Grains some∣thing bigger than our Coriander-seeds, so that, to all appearance, it is very like unto our Manna, which we gather from the Larix. It might also very well be taken to be the same that the Israelites did eat, had not God the Almighty fed his Peo∣ple and maintained them Miraculously and Su∣pernaturally. But that it falls upon Thorns, is also attested by Serapio and Avicen, in those Chap∣ters

where they treat of Manna, which they call Theceriabin and Trangibin, and that very learn∣ed and experienced Botanist Carolus Clusius saith the same in his Epitome of Indian Plants. I found some of these Shrubs that grew about Ha∣leppo, which were about a Cubit high, which shout out into several roundish Stalks, and di∣vide and spread themselves from the Stem into several Sprigs like unto a Flower (part where∣of were quite over-grown with Epithymum, as Thymus used to be) and had abundance of long thin and soft Prickles, from whence grew out flesh-coloured reddish Flowers, that bore small red Cods, very like, and of the same shape with the Cods of our Scorpioides, (whereof I have found many at Montpelier) wherein are Seeds of the same colour. The Root thereof is pretty long, of a brown colour, its leaves long, like unto those of Polygonum, of an Ash colour; those that grow at the bottom of the Thorns are of a warm and dry Quality. The People use the Herb for a Purge, they take a handful thereof and boyl it in Water. Besides this they have another Manna like unto that, that cometh to us from Calabria by the way of Venice, and is the concreted Saccarine Exudation of the Or∣nus.

Among the rest they also shew costly Stones, by the Arabians called Bazaor, which are ob∣long and roundish, and smooth without, and of a dark green Colour. The Persians take these from a peculiar sort of Bucks, and use the Pow∣der against mortal and poisonous Distempers. There are some that are very like unto these in Form and Figure, but not to be compared for Goodness: Wherefore a Man must have great care that he be not cheated. But there are some

Proofs to know whether they are good or no, which a Merchant communicated to me as in∣fallible. Take Quicklime and mix it in Pou∣der with a little of this Stone, and with Water make them up into a Paste, when that is dry grind it, if it then remaineth white it is esteem∣ed false, but if it turns yellow it is good, and brought from Persia. They also bring hither Turkey Stones, that grow almost only in their Country, and their King the Sophy has an in∣credible Treasure of them together: Lately so many of them were brought to us that the Pri∣ces fell very much; but when the King heard of this, he immediately forbid that any should be Exported in seven years time, that so they might come to their former Price again, which seven years as I am informed are now expired. There are also put to Sale many Chains of de∣licate Oriental Pearls, which are for the great∣est part taken or found in the Persian Seas, near to the Island called Bahare, scituated not far from that great trading City of the Turkish Bat∣zora, or Balsara.

From India they bring hither many delicate Spices, Cinnamon, Spicnard, Long Pepper, Tur∣bith, Cardamoms, Nutmegs, Mace, and China Roots, which the Arabians make more use of then of Guajacum, and delicate China Cups and Di∣shes, Indico: and in very great quantity they bring that noble Root called Rhubarb. And moreover, they sell several sorts of precious Stones, viz. Garnats, Rubies, Balasios, Saphirs, Diamonds, and the best sincerest Musk in little Gods. These precious Stones are hid by the Merchants in the great Caravans that come from India, and they bring them secretly, because they dare not pay Custom for them, that the

Bashaws, Sangiachs and others, may not rob them of them on the High-ways, for they use to do so if they find any. I will cease to discourse any longer of these and other Drugs, and seve∣ral Merchandises, which the Merchants convey thither from forreign Places daily, and from thence to other places again, because it is none of my Business to deal in them. With the Spices are sometimes by the Merchants brought from the Indies delicate Canes, which are very long, solid, or full within, flexible and bright without, of a yellowish Colour, they are al∣most every-where alike thick, only a little ta∣pering; but few Joynts, far distant from one another, and are hardly seen in them. There are two sorts of them, great and small ones; the great and stronger ones are used by old and lame People instead of Crutches to walk with, but the lesser (which are very like the former) are made into Arrows and Darts, for which they are very fit, the Turks wind them about with Silk of many sorts of Colours, which they are very proud of when they make their entries. You find also in the Shops another sort of Canes to be Sold, which are small and hollow within, and smooth without, a brownish red Colour, wherewith Turks, Moors, and the Eastern Peo∣ple write, for to write with Goose-Quills is not in use with them; wherefore these may be e∣steemed to be the true Syringas or Fistularis of Dioscor: Besides these there is another bigger sort of Canes, almost of the same Colour, but full of Joynts; the Pilgrims that go to see their Ma∣homet bring these with them from Mecha, and the People of that Country carry them along with them on Horseback instead of short Pikes, chiefly the Arabians, for they are long, strong,

and light, and yet solid or full within, with these they come running on upon their Enemies, or else they (lifting it up above the middle in one of their Hands) fling it at them, with such force, that they penetrate deeper with their sharp Iron, (wherewith they are tipt before and behind) then their Arrows. Theophrastus maketh peculiar mention of them in his fourth Book and the 11th. Chapter, and Pliny in his Sixteenth Book and the 36th. Chapter.

We see very few of these in our Country, for the Christians are forbidden under great Penal∣ties to carry any of them (the same it is with any other Arms that they make use of in their Wars) out of the Country, if any doth and is found out, he exposes himself to infinite Trou∣bles and Dangers, as did happen to one in my time, which after a Scimiter was found about him, was very highly accused, and fined Seven∣ty Ducats to be paid in two days time, and if he had not paid it they would certainly have circumcised him and made him a Turk.

Besides these above-mentioned Champs, there are a great many more without and within the City, where also all sorts of Merchandises are Sold, viz. Quibir the Great, Sougier the Little, Gidith the New, Atich, Old, &c. And besides all these they have a great Exchange called Bat∣zar by the Inhabitants, which is in the middle of the Town, and is bigger then Friberg in Bavaria, in it there is many Alleys, and each of them divided for several Wares and handy∣craft Trades; first the Grocers and Mercers, then those that sell Tapestry and other soft Woollen Cloaths, and also Turkish Machyer, Camlet, Taf∣fety, and other Silks and Cottons delicately wrought. There are also good Cardavon, deli∣cate

Furrs of Martins, and chiefly Wild Cats, whereof abundance runs about in these Coun∣tries.

There are also Jewellers that sell all manner of Jewels, precious Stones, Pearls, &c. All sorts of Handy-craft Tradesmen, as Shoe-ma∣kers, Taylors, Sadlers, Needle and Pin-makers, Painters, Goldsmiths, Brasiers, Locksmiths, &c. that have their Shops in the Batzars where they work, but their work is chiefly that of the Goldsmiths, Painters, and Locksmiths, is so sil∣ly, that it is by no means to be compared with ours. There are also Turners, Fletchers that make Arrows and Darts, and Bow-makers, that have besides their Shops small Butts, that any body that goes by may exercise himself, or try his Bow before he buyeth it. These Bows are sometimes plain Work, and some inlaid with Ivory, Buflers Horns, &c. which maketh them of a differing Price. The Archers wear a Ring upon their right Thumbs, as our Merchants wear their Seals wherewith they draw the String on when they are going to shoot, these are made of Wood, Horn, or Silver, and some are set with Precious Stones. Besides these you find in great Batzars some Barbar-Surgeons, which, (when they have no body to trim) use to go a∣bout the Streets with their Instruments and a Flask of Lather to look out for Work; if they find any that will be trimed they do not come back to their Shops but go to Work in the Streets, or in the next Champ if any be near, and there begin to Lather him, and shave all the Hair of his Head, save only one long Lock which he leaves to hang down his Back. There are also places where they sell Slaves of both Sex∣es, old and young, which are sold dearer or

cheaper, according to their Strength or Hand∣someness, &c. But in all these Countries I saw neither Wheel-wright nor Cart-wright, because neither Waggons nor Carts are in use with them: Neither could I find (for all it is so great a City) a Gunsmith that understood how to mend the least fault in a Gun-lock, because there is a great Trade daily driven in these Batzars, you shall find there at all times of the day a great num∣ber of People of several Nations walking up and down, which makes a Crowd as if you were in a Fair. Amongst them you will often see drunken Turks, which use to push People that do not give them the way immediately, chiefly if they be Christians; but the Christians are not afraid of them for all that, but prepare themselves (when they perceive some of them to approach among the People) and stand upon their Guard to be even with them, and when the Turks come and push them, they make them rebound again to one side, or to one of the Shop-boards. Sometimes also the Turks will lean themselves backwards against the Shops, and when they see a Christian go by they let him fall over their Legs, and so laugh at them, but then the Christians again when they per∣ceive this, they kick up the other Leg of the Turk whereon he rests and so make him fall down himself. For it is usual with the Turks to try the Christians what Metal they are made of, whether they have Courage or no, wherefore they oftentimes before they are aware of them, assault the Christians with rough Words, and if they find them to be affraid they laugh at them to boot, but if they resist them they give over immediately as soon as they find them in earnest (just like some Dogs that sooner bark then bite)

and esteem him afterwards the more for it, and call them brave People that are fit for the War.

You find also in this Crowd several that are in Orders, called Sacquatz, (which commonly are Pilgrims that have been at Mecha) that go about with Skins full of Water, and for Chari∣ty give to any, nay, even to the Christians that desire it: (because the Mahumetans are for∣bid to drink Wine in their Alcoran) Wherefore you see many in their peculiar Habits (moved thereunto by Devotion) that go all day long a∣mong the People to exercise a Work of Love and Charity to those that are thirsty. They have in one hand a fine gilded Cup whereinto they power the Water out of their Skins, wherein they have commonly laid Chalcedonicks, Ja∣spirs, &c. Sometimes also delicate tasted Fruit, to keep the Water fresh, and to recreate the People. When they give you to Drink out of it they reach you also a Looking-glass with this Admonition, That you shall look your self in it, and remember that you are Mortal and must die. For this Service they desire nothing of you, but if you give them any thing they take it and thank you, and spout into your Face and Beard (to shew their thankfulness) some fragrant Water which they have in Glasses, in a great Pouch tip'd with many Brass Clasps. The Turks and Arabians also esteem it to be a great Charity and Love, if they let their Mar∣ble Troughs or great Pots that stand everywhere about their Doors be filled up with fresh Water every day, that Travellers or any that are dry may quench their Thirst as they pass by; in it hang little Kettles to drink out of: If one goes to it, others that see him go also, and drink ra∣ther

for Companies sake then to quench their Thirst: So you find often a whole Multitude a∣bout a Pot. If you have a mind to eat some∣thing or to drink other Liquors, there is com∣monly an open Shop near it, where you sit down upon the Ground or Carpets and drink together. Among the rest they have a very good Drink, by them called Chaube, (Coffee) that is almost as black as Ink, and very good in illness, chiefly that of the Stomach; of this they drink in the Morning early in open places before every body, without any fear or regard out of China Cups, as hot as they can, they put it often to their Lips but drink but little at a time, and let it go round as they sit. In this same Water they take a Fruit called Bunru, which in its Bigness, Shape, and Colour, is almost like unto a Bay-berry, with two thin Shells surrounded, which as they informed me are brought from the Indies; but as these in themselves are, and have within them, two yellowish Grains in two distinct Cells, and besides, being they agree in their Virtue, Fi∣gure, Looks, and Name, with the Buncho of Avicen, and Bancha of Rasis ad Almans exactly; therefore I take them to be the same, until I am better informed by the Learned. This Li∣quor is very common among them, wherefore there are a great many of them that sell it, and others that sell the Berries, everywhere in their Batzars: They esteem it as highly as we do in our Country Wormwood Wine, or that that is pre∣pared with several Herbs and Drugs: yet they love Wine better if their Law would allow them to drink it, as we have seen in the Reign of the Emperour Selymo, when he gave them leave to drink it, that they met together daily in Drinking-houses, and drunk to one another,

not only two or three Glasses of strong Wine not mixed with Water, but four or five of such as came from Venice to them so quickly one af∣ter another with such eagerness, (as I have of∣ten seen it) that they would not allow themselves to eat a Morcel or two between it; and so as you may easily guess, they become to be sor∣did presently, and so Hoggish, that they excel all other Nations in it. But after Selymus was dead, and his Son Amurath succeeded him in his right, he immediately forbad them to drink Wine in the very beginning of his Reign, and looked after it with such severity, that any bo∣dy that did but smell of Wine was Imprisoned immediately, put out of his place, and a great Fine put upon him according to his capacity, or for want of it, punished severely with many Blows under his Soals. During this Prohibition it happened, that when the Bashaw of Halepo had a mind to go abroad and met in the Court∣yard one of his men that was Drunk, and per∣ceived it by his staggering, he drew his Scime∣ter and cut off his Head, and so left him dead upon the place. But yet notwithstanding all this Severity, and be it never so peremptorily forbid, they do not only not mind such Prohi∣bition, chiefly the Renegadoes, (being very much used to it) but long and linger the sooner after it with that eagerness, that in the Summer time they use to carry in privately (just like the Ants) great quantities of Wine, and lay up good Stores that they may meet at Night and drink together until they have their Bellies full, and so rest after it all Night that they might not smell of Wine the next Day. In that time when they were prohibited to drink Wine we Christi∣ans fared very well and bought our Wine very

cheap, until afterwards they had leave to drink it again: Their Wines are generally red, very good and pleasant, they keep it in Skins; they are brought to Halepo from several places, but chiefly from a famous Town called Nisis, which lieth two days Journey distant from it upon the Borders of Armenia: The use of Skins is still ve∣ry great with them as it was in former Ages, as we may see by the similitude of Christ, when in St. Matthew Chap. 9. Vers. 17. he says, No man put new wine into, &c. Seeing that the Christians have leave to drink Wine, therefore they sell and buy most of it, they also plant it, and have whole Villages in their Possessions, with abundance of Vineyards. But the Turks not being allowed to drink Wine by their Laws do not keep or cultivate many Vineyards, and if they do they press the Grapes after several ways, for some they make into Cibebs, chiefly these People that live in and about Damascus, where indeed the best groweth; others boyl the Juice of the Grapes up to the consistence of Honey which they call Pachmatz, chiefly these that live at Andeb, a Town between Bir and Ni∣sib. They have two sorts of this rob, one very thick, and the other somewhat thinner, the former is the best, wherefore they put it up into little Barrels to send into other Countries, the latter they use themselves, mix it sometimes with Water and give it to drink (instead of a Julep) to their Servants, sometimes they put it into lit∣tle Cups, to dip their Bread in it, as if it were Honey, and so eat it. Besides these they have other sweet Drinks which they prepare out of red Berries called Jujubes (or of Cibebs, which when boiled in Water with a little Honey the Inhabitants call Hassap) and others called still

by the old name of Berberis, of which they bring great quantities down from Mount Liba∣nus. Among other Liquors they have a special one called Tscherbeth, which boiled of Honey tasteth like unto our Mead; they have another made of Barley or Wheat, by the Ancients called Zychus and Curmi: these two last make the Turks so merry and elevated, that as our Clowns do when they drink Beer, they sing and play on their Hautboys, Cornets, and Ket∣tle Drums (which their Musicians make use of every Morning when the Guards are relieved): All these Liquors are sold in their great Batzars, where they have Baskets full of Ice and Snow all the Summer long, whereof they put so much into the Drink that it maketh their Teeth chat∣ter and quake again. Thus much I thought convenient to mention of their Liquors or Drinks.

Concerning their Food, their Bread is nou∣rishing and good, and so white, chiefly at Ha∣lepo, that none is like it in all Turkey: so they have several sorts of it, of several shapes and mixtures, whereof some are done with Yolks of Eggs, some mixt with several sorts of Seeds, as of Sesamum, Romish Coriander, and wild Garden Saffron, which is also strowed upon it; Meat is cheap with them and very good, by reason of the precious Herbs that grow there∣about, chiefly upon Mount Tauri, which ex∣tendeth itself very far Eastwards, from whence they have abundance of Cattel, as Rams, Wea∣thers, and Sheep with broad and fat Tails, whereof one weigheth several Pounds. They have also great store of Goats which they drive daily in great Numbers through that City to sell their Milk, which every one that hath a mind

to it drinks warm in the open Streets; among them there are some that are not very big, but have Ears two foot long, so that they hang down to the Ground and hinder them from feeding, when one of them is cut off which is common∣ly done, they turn themselves always upon that side that the other Ear may not hinder them from feeding. They have no want of Beefes and Bufles, for they are very common there, and the Butchers kill the Beasts in the Fields without Town, where they have their Slaugh∣ter-houses; thereabout are a great many Dogs that live of the Offels, and have their young ones in Holes and Cliffs where they bring them up, and these become so Ravenous and Wild, that they run about in the Night after their Prey (as I am informed) like Wolffs in our Country: And this may very well be, for the Turks do not only not kill any Dogs but rather carry them home when they are young, and there feed them till they are grown up and able to shift for themselves, and they believe that they do a deed of Charity that is very acceptable to God Al∣mighty: like unto the Divines in the Indies, cal∣led Banians, which serve the Birds in the same manner as these do the Dogs and Cats. These Wolves are more like to our Dogs both in Shape and Bigness; and so says Pliny, that the Wolves in Aegypt are less and lasier then these towards the North; being there are no Inns in Turkey, where, as with us, Travellers may Lodge and have their Diet, therefore there is a great many Cake-shops kept in the Batzars, where all man∣ner of Victuals are cleanly dressed, viz. But∣chers Meat, Fouls, and all sorts of Sauces, and Broths, and Soups, where every body buys what he hath a mind to, according to the ca∣pacity

of his Purse. Among the rest nothing is so common as Rice, which they boyl up to such a stiffness, that it crumbleth. A great many other sorts you shall see in Copper Ba∣sons, upon their Shop-boards, prepared after the same way, amongst the rest peculiarly a very common one, called Bnuhourt, made of Barley and Wheat, which were first broke on a Mill, and perhaps dryed, and so boyled with or with∣out Milk, into a thick Pap. Dioscorides, in the 83d Chapter of his Second Book, maketh men∣tion of this by the name of Crimnon; and also Avicen. and Rhasas ad Almans. in Synonymis, cal∣leth it Sanguick and Savick. The Turks provide themselves with good store of this, chiefly in War-time, by Water and by Land, that when they want Provision, they may make use of it instead of Bread. Besides these, they have more Dishes amongst them: I remember one called Trachan; when it is dressed, it is so tough, that you may draw it out like Glue; this they make up into little pieces, which being dryed, will keep good a great while, and is very good and pleasant Food after it is boyled; wherefore they lay up great Stores of this in their strong Forti∣fications, as we do of Corn, that in case of ne∣cessity they may eat it instead of Bisquets, or other Food. That such sorts of Foods (by the Latinists called Pùls) have been very well known to the Ancients, and that in case of necessity they use to make a shift with it, Pliny testifieth in his Eighteenth Book, and the Eighth Chapter.

They have also all manner of Poultry in great plenty, viz. Pullen, Snipes, Partridges with red Bills, Woodcocks, &c. but very few Fishes, because they have only a small Rivolet,

(which is full of Turtles) so that at Halepo they are very scarce: Neither do they esteem them much, because most of them drink Water in∣stead of Wine (which is prohibited by their Law) wherefore there are but very few brought thither from foreign places, as Antiochia, and the great River Euphrates, &c. distant from thence two or three miles. Besides this, they have little By-dishes, as Kal, Colliflowers, Car∣rots, Turneps, French-Beans, Besides Trees and Codded Fruits, and many more; but yet they are not so well skilled in the dressing of them, as we are in our Country.

Lastly, They put also up with their Cheese, Cibebs, Almonds, dryed Cicers, Pistachio's, and crack'd Hasel-nuts, which (although they are carried thither from our Country) are better tasted, and pleasanter than ours. They have many sorts of Preserves, very well done with Sugar and Hony; very artificially (chiefly those they carry about to sell upon Plates very well garnish'd) made up and set out with several Colours and Shapes very beautiful to behold. For the rest, they live very sparingly, and bring the Year round with small and little Expences, for they do not make so great Feasts, nor have so many Dishes, nor bestow so great Cost as we do in our Country.

In these Eastern Countries they eat upon the plain Ground, and when it is Dinner-time they spread a round piece of Leather, and lay about it Tapestry, and sometimes Cushions, whereupon they sit cross-leg'd: Before they begin to eat, they say Grace first, then they eat and drink hastily, and every one taketh what he has a mind to, and do not talk much. The Rich have fine Cotton-Linnen about their Necks, hanging

downwards, or else hanging at their Silk-gir∣dles, which they use instead of Napkins: Their Wives or Women do not eat with them, but keep themselves in their peculiar Apartments. After they have done, they rise altogether with a Jerk, swinging themselves about, which our Countrymen cannot easily imitate, till after they have been there a long while, for the Limbs are numbed in sitting cross-legg'd, so that one hath a great deal to do to bring them to themselves again. At last they take up the Leathern Table, with Bread and all, which therefore serveth them also instead of a Table-Cloth and Bread-basket, they draw it toge∣ther with a String, like a Purse, and hang it up in the next corner.

CHAP. IX.

A Short and Plain Relation of Plants, which I gathered during my stay at Halepo, in and round about it, not without great dan∣ger and trouble, which I glued upon Paper very carefully.

BEing I undertook this long Journey, chiefly on purpose to see my self those fine Out∣landish Plants, whereof Authors so often make mention, growing in their native Soil, and so gain a more clear and perfect Knowledge of them. I was very glad to have an opportunity to stay longer than I intended, that I might the oftner go out with my Friends and Com∣rades into the Fields, among the Turks and Moors, (not without great pain and danger of being knock'd on the Head) to fetch in more and greater variety of Plants: Wherein my Comrade Hans Ulrich Krafft, who came into these parts along with me, very often hath faithfully and honestly assisted me. But ha∣ving heretofore made mention of the Garden-Herbs and Fruits, I will only in this place write of them which grow abroad without the Gar∣dens, and that with all possible shortness, and begin with the Poplar-Tree, as the commonest of all, which the Inhabitants still call by the an∣cient Arabian Name Haur; they grow very

high in these Countries, and abundance of them grow about the Rivolet near Halepo, which make very shady Walks underneath in the heat of Summer. There is also a peculiar sort of Willow-Trees, called Safcaf, &c. these are not all alike in bigness and heighth, and in their Stems and Twigs they are not very unlike unto Birch-Trees, (which are long, thin, weak, and of a pale-yellow colour) they have soft Ash-colour'd Leaves, or rather like unto the Leaves of the Poplar-Tree, and on their Twigs here and there are Shoots of a span long, like unto those of the Cypriotish wild Fig-trees, which put forth in the Spring tender and woolly Flowers, like unto the Blossoms of the Poplar-Tree, only they are of a more drying quality, of a pale co∣lour, and a fragrant smell. The Inhabitants pull of these (because they bear no Fruits) great quantities, and distil a very precious and sweet Water out of them, very comfortable and cor∣roborating to the Heart. The Arabians call these Trees Zacneb and Zacnabum; Rhases in 353d, and Avicenna in his 749th Chapt. And after the same manner maketh Serapio mention of them in his 261st Chapt. by the common Name of Zucumbeth; and Theophrastus in his Fourth Book, and Eleventh Chapter, where he treats of Elae-agnus, which this is very like unto, and may be taken for the same, although they differ in bigness, which often and easily happens according to the soyl and place where they grow. Hereabout are other small Trees, which I rather take to be thorny Shrubs; they are very like in leaves unto the others, and are called by the Moors Scisesun. They love to grow in moist places, and in Hedges; from the Root shoot several Stems, cloathed with a

smooth brown-colour'd Bark; they bear at top pretty long and strong Twigs, which here and there are beset with a few Prickles, whereon grow small Flowers, white without and yellow within, whereof three and three sprout out between the Leaves. I did not see any of their Fruit, but yet I do believe that they are like un∣to the Olives of the Bohemian Olive-Tree, to which this Plant is very like, which is very na∣turally delineated in the Herbal of the learned Matthiolus. These Trees cast forth such an odour in the Spring, that any body that goes by must needs be sensible of it presently. Wherefore the Turks and Moors cut many of their Branches, and stick them up in their Shops.

On the Banks of the above-mentioned Ri∣volet, chiefly about the Stone-Bridge, as you travel to Tripoly, grow many Agnus Castus's, of the lesser sort, and on the other side, in the Fields, many Pistachia Nut-trees.

Within and without the City grow also many sorts of Trees, viz. that which Avicen. calleth Azedarack, but Rhases, Astergio; white Mul∣berry-Trees, Date-Trees, and Cypresses, by the Natives called Sacub (which hereabout grow very big and high) Turpentine-Trees, &c.

About the Fences and Hedges you will find wild Pomgranate-Trees, with fine double Flow∣ers, wild Almond-Trees, the Fruit whereof the Moors carry about in great plenty to sell to the Poor; and near it, in old decay'd Brick-walls, and Stony places, you shall see Caper-bushes: Among the rest there groweth a very strange Bush, by the Inhabitants called Morgsani, which is very green and thick, hath a long Woody Coat, whereout sprout several Stalks, with

round Leaves, like unto Caper-leaves, only with this difference, that four of them stand together all opposite to one another, like unto our Beans; between them there appear small Flowers, red within and white without, whereout grow long Pods, like unto these of the Sesamum. This Plant hath a very unpleasant scent, wherefore the Inhabitants use it frequently to destroy Worms: But what the Ancients formerly called it, I know not, but really am of this opinion, it must be according to the description the Ar∣difrigi of Avicen. and Aadician of Rhasis; he that pleaseth may read more thereof in the quoted places. In these places is also found the thorny Acacia, by the Inhabitants called Shack, and by the Arabians Schamuth, which are very small and low, chiefly these that stand in the Fields, which give as much trouble to the Plowmen as the Ferns and Rest-harrow do here; the Twigs are of an Ashen-colour, crooked, full of Prickles, like unto those of a Rose-bush, and have very small-feather'd Leaves, like unto Tragacantha, which are almost divided like unto our female Fern, the Flowers of them I have not seen, but the Cods that grow out of them are without brownish, in their shape thicker and rounder than our Beans, spongy within, and containing two or three reddish Seeds.

I have, besides these, seen in Shops Pods of a Chestnut-brown colour, sold under the name of Cardem, which have two or three little distinct Cells or Baggs, in each whereof is a reddish Seed, in the Figure of our male Balsam; these are brought from Aegypt, and by some thought to be the true Acacia Diosc. whether it be so or no I cannot well tell, because I never saw the Plant. Very near it, in untilled places, groweth

Galega; Sisynrichium Theophrasti, which is very curiously delineated in the Book of Rempert. Dodon. de herbis & floribus coron.

There is also found another fine Plant, by the Inhabitants called Tharasalis, which hath seven or eight waved Leaves, which stand about a round Stalk, almost as it is to be seen in Sisyn∣richium, only they are a great deal broader, and not so long, when the Stalk thereof (which is not above a cubit long) is grown, through and above them; it gets at top a white Flower, not very unlike unto the low blew Flower de Luce which blow early in the Spring; it has a roun∣dish Root, like unto that of Narcissus, and also has many long white Fibres. Not far from thence, when you get upon the Hill, there groweth in the rough places others, viz. Bistor∣ta, still by the Inhabitants called Zuph, a fine sort of Verbacum; Scorzonera with purple Flo∣wers, Saffron with small little Leaves, and a de∣licate yellow Flower; also Arisarum, Homaid. and Arum, called by them Carsaami, whereof there are four sorts, among the rest a strange one, with long Ears, wherefore they call it in their Language Ovidne.

There also are about the Rivers some Anemo∣nes of several sorts, and of several colours, very beautiful, as red, purple colour, yellow, &c. all which they call with a common name Sakaick, and give an additional Name accor∣ding to the colour to it, viz. Schackaick ach∣mar, Sakaik assar, Aserack, &c. that is to say, red-yellow, of a Violet colour, &c. which would be too long and tedious, to describe all here: Chiefly if I should at length relate the common ones, as, Wild Rue, Asphodelus albus; Rheseda Plin. Flos solis foliis minoribus serpilli,

Wild Onions, and other innumerable more. As you come down by another way back again, nearer to the Corn-Fields, you find other fine Herbs, as the wild new Harmala, a delicate sort of Astragalus foliis hedysari minoris, and by it another which is very like unto Astragalus of Dioscor. so that I really believe it to be the same. There appear a great many of them upon the the heighth; it is a low Herb, with a long brownish Root, as big and long as the Roots of Horse-radish, which puts out at the sides some strong Fibres, which are almost blacker and harder to cut than the Root it self: Some of them go downwards, and others the greater part upwards, and bended like unto Horns. These contain, together with their sweetness, also a dryness; they shoot out at the top into several Branches of the same colour, yet not above the length of a Finger, which encline to∣wards the Earth, where out grow nine or ten small Leaves, like Lentil-leaves, not very unlike to those of Orobus, and distributed after the same manner. Between them sprout out pur∣ple-brown Flowers, after them come long and thick and full Bladders, whereof some are as big as those of the Colutea.

All these, and several other Herbs, have I preserved and glued to some Paper with great and peculiar care, so that they are to be seen in their natural colours, so exact as if they were green.

About the River, up a Hill, I found a ten∣der and fragrant Herb, with long and white Roots, of a pretty acrimonious taste, its Leaves were like unto our Coriander, only somewhat rounder, and not so much cut, but only a little about the edges; I found no Stalks nor Flowers,

for it was early in the year, and about Easter, which is the time of their first springing, these they called Zarneb Melchi, and the Inhabitants dig so many of these Roots, that they send yearly several Chests-full into Persia, where they use them (as I am informed) very frequently in Pains of their Backs, and all other accidental Pains. As far as I can see, when I look upon the Leaves, I reckon it to be the third sort of Daucus of Diosc. A little lower, as you come to the plow'd Fields, I found also the second kind of Chondrilla of Diosc. with round Roots of a smooth and dark-yellowish colour, perhaps at the top half an inch thick, and five or eight long, whereon at the end where it is thinnest, hangs another round Root of the bigness of a Chestnut, which are so full of Milk, that they are ready to crack; at top, where it is divided into three parts, sprout out many long and small Grass Leaves together, which lye flat upon the Ground; between them come out yellow Flowers like unto these of auricula muris, each whereof hath its peculiar Stalk.

Not far from it, yet in rougher and stonier Ground, groweth another Chondrilla, which is like unto that former in all parts, only the Leaves thereof are broader, and more woolly, and of an Ash-colour, very like unto the Holo∣stium of Montpellier. As you go to the Grand Signior's Garden, (about a small mile from the Town) at the Road, I found a good many Plants, viz. Draba Diosc. call'd Orobanche Halinu, Spina solstitialis, a kind of Carduus Mariae; Wild Cucumbers, by them called Adiural hamar; Xyphium, Peplium, Heliotropium tri coccum Caroli Clusii, and also his Paronychia Hispanica, and his third Lichnis, with pale and red purple-colou∣red

Flowers; Coris Mathi. with yellow Flowers; two delicate sorts of Geraniums; and upon old Walls I found a little Rauckel, with pale-colour'd Flowers, Umbilicus Veneris, and a great many more. I cannot leave unmentioned those that are growing round about in the Fields, and chiefly amongst them a Medica, with dissected trifoliated Leaves; and many more, whereof some have long and straight, and others many bended Pods, in a cluster together. I also found one with many white and hoary Heads, which looked almost like unto Lagopodium, and another little one with green-colour'd Pods pressed together, so long and broad as those of Senna, which were a great Ornament to the whole Plant. And also thereabout are found many sorts of Corn-flowers, quite differing from ours: Papaver erratic, in their Language called Schuck, of which they make a Conserve with Sugar, and use it in Coughs; Papaver cor∣niculatum with stately purple Flowers. I found also there Eryngium, with blewish Tops and starred Heads: Two sorts of Henbane, whereof one that groweth in the Fields hath red and pur∣ple-colour'd Flowers, the other which I found in the Town upon the old Walls had white ones, by the Latines call'd Apollinaris. Much thereabout, in the Corn, grew the less Melam∣pyrum, by them called Paponesck, which at the top beareth thick yellow flowers, very like unto the Melampyrum Tragi; Item the second kind of Wild Cumin, with yellow flowers, and long ben∣ded pods: Poterion Math. by the Inhabitants called Megasac, which they stick up in their Chambers, to keep them from being bewitch'd. A delicate sort of Horminum, with small woolly and dissected leaves, a Garden-Cypress with

gold-colour'd flowers: Seabiosa, Anchusa, and a Salvia, which hath many roundish leaves, and about their square stalks grow purple-colour'd Bells, wherein is its black Seed, like unto that of Melissa Molucca, whereof I have made men∣tion above. In the Corn also groweth Leontope∣talon, in their Language Aslab, with its brown-colour'd round Root, and large Leaves, which are roundish, and very near divided like unto these of our Paeonia; the Stalk hath at the top, which is about a foot high, and hollow, more Twiggs, whereof the point of each of them bea∣reth several small purple and yellow Flowers, which make roundish Bladders, that contain one, two, and sometimes three Seeds, the Chil∣dren use to play their Tricks with them as they do with the Flowers of Papaver erraticum in our Country. The great Roots they bruise, and rub with it Spots in Cloaths, which they (as they say) draw out immediately.

By these in the Corn groweth also the true Chrysogonum of Diosc. which is as high as the former, and also in Flowers, Stalks, and roun∣dish Root (which is redder within) very like it, only the Stalk is slenderer, and hath more and longer by-shoots, or germina, at the end whereof you see stately yellow Flowers, so that it is thicker, and more spriggy than the other: Its pennated Leaves (whereof there are com∣monly four that come from the Root with long foot-stalks almost as slender as a Thread) lye close to the Ground, as you may easily imagin, and have every one their Ribs, two and two Leaves growing together on each side, one after another, so that four of them stand together in a cross; they are darkish green, and at the out side, where they are broader, very like unto

Oaken leaves. Now, as these and others, that grow in these Countries, are as yet very little known, so may also the following, that groweth in plowed Fields, be reckoned among the un∣known, which is very like unto the Lycopsis of Diosc. for which, in my opinion, it ought to be taken.

This Plant hath a red Coat, and a straight Stalk about two foot high, from whence round about below spread themselves many strong and rough Leaves, in a circle, as if it were from one center; not unlike the wild Bugloss, they de∣crease a little by degrees, as they grow higher and higher: Out of each of them, close to the Stalk, sprouts out many Twigs, with their pe∣culiar small Leaves, as you see in Echium; be∣tween them shoot out very tender purple-colour'd Flowers, which are whole within, and divided into six small or longish Leaves, almost like unto these of the Caryophillus montanus. In the beginning of February I have seen several Sorts of Hyacinths, and the Oriental one in the greatest quantity, which they call Zumbel in their Language. In April I saw another very delicate one, known to them by the name Ayur, with long and very small Leaves of our Philangium; it groweth pretty high, and beareth at the top four Stalky Flowers; the Leaves thereof are very like in shape and colour unto the three Leaves that stand up in our Flower de luce; the Root is very like to that of a Tulip, whereof I have also seen a great number in these Grounds of all sorts of colours. I have also found some Daisies like unto our own, and also another sort of them with nine or ten white Saffron-flowers, which sprout sooner in the Spring in the Corn, not so bare as ours, but be∣tween

the Leaves. The Leaves are pretty thick, but narrower, longer, and narrower pointed than the before-mentioned: They also spread more about upon the Ground, and come from a white Coat with a brown-red Skin, surrounded and divided in the middle, it is called Kusan in their Tongue, but by some others it is still cal∣led Surugen.

These and a great many more strange Herbs have I found, but because they were unknown to me, I forbear to mention any more of them. But yet I cannot but describe to you one more, for the taking of which I and my two Comrades fell into great danger, as we often did, both of Turks and Moors, which needs not all to be re∣lated here: This is called by the Inhabitants Rhasut, and also Rumigi; it hath a strong, yet unpleasant savour, and about four stalks of a whitish colour, and so tender towards the Root, and so small as a Packthread, whereon at each side grow seven or eight tender ash-colour'd Leaves one against the other, distributed like un∣to those of Osmond-Royal, only they have round Ears towards the St••lk, like unto the small Sage, and between the lowermost, which are a little more distant, Flowers like unto our Aristolochia, yet a great deal bigger, of a more brownish co∣lour, and hanging on longer Stalks. The Root striketh very deep, and is very like unto our Pel∣litory, of a drying quality, and somewhat hot, as the bitter taste intimates. When I was busie about this tender Plant, and strove to get it out whole, which took me up the more time, be∣cause I had no proper Tools by me, a Turk well armed came galloping upon us, to see what we were doing; but when we perceived him to be fuddled, and that he earnestly set upon us, to

make booty of us, each of us gave him, accor∣ding to his own desire (seeing that he would not leave us without it) something, that so we might get rid of him, so he rode away very well pleased out of our sight, so that we took no fur∣ther care of him. But before I could get the Root quite out, he came back again with full speed upon us, so I bid my Comrades to run to the next Olive-Trees, and I would follow them presently; but when I saw him come pretty near me, and found I could not get the Plant whole, I pulled it up as well as I could, and so ran to my Companions. But when I came to the Olive-trees, I found they were ran several Olive-trees further, which stand row by row, and found my self quite alone and destitute, and that I must defend my self behind the Tree; so he came down upon me with his Cymeter drawn, and fetch'd one blow after the other at me, which I still declined running from one side of the Tree to the other, so that they went into the Tree and mangled it mightily. In the mean time defending my self thus unarmed against him, I took a Resolution, that if he should take hold of his Bow and Arrow to shoot at me, which he could not do except he left his Cyme∣ter, to run in upon him, and struggle with him: But this Fight during very long, and perhaps his Anger did not give him leave to think of it, I found out another way (knowing them to be very covetous) to make my self free again with a piece of Money, and to give him a small Silver piece, (which in their Language they call Saict, worth about three-pence or a Groat) so pulled it out, and shew'd it him still standing be∣hind the Tree: As soon as he saw it he gave

over, and beckened to me to give it him, so I stepp'd to him, and when I reached it to him, he took it. But my Table-book fell out of my Pocket when I pulled out the Money, upon the Ground, wherein I had recorded many things, which when he saw, he would have it also, but I refusing it, he grew mad, and began to renew the same Game again; then I repen∣ted that I did not dismount him when I gave him the Money; yet I consider'd, that if I should have done him a Mischief, as he deser∣ved, yet although I had never so good a Cause, I was sure I must be cast, and perhaps come to a greater mischief and hurt; so I gave him it, and after he had received it, he was pacified and rode away.

But to come to my former purpose again, I found about the River the other Tragium Diosc. in the ploughed Grounds, and afterwards also in abundance upon the Hill, but generally in moist places, near to the Spring that runs down the Hill: Its Root is whitish, pretty long and slender, from thence spread themselves some woody Stalks not above a little finger long, whereon grew towards the top many Leaves to∣gether, which were long, and had of each side of their rib small Leaves, one opposite to the other, which were (just like the Tricho∣manes) divided, only somewhat longer, about the bigness of these of Asplenium, and are (as they) delicately green within, but without, and against the Ground, of an Ash-colour, and woolly, chiefly the small ones, that are just sprouting out between the others. Out of these first-mentioned Stems come first naked long Stalks, upon which grow, at the top,

Violet-brown Flowers close together, as if it was an Ear of Corn: The Inhabitants call it Secudes, and so did the ancient Arabians, chiefly Avicen. in the 679th Chapter, where he also attributeth this Vertue, that it is very proper in the Bloody-flux.

In their Gardens the Turks love to raise all sorts of Flowers, wherein they take great de∣light, and use to put them on their Turbant, so I could see the fine Plants that blow one after another, daily, without trouble. In December I saw our Violets, with dark-brown and white Flowers, whereof they gave me in that Season several Nosegays. Then came the Tulips, Hya∣cinths, Narcissies, which they still name by the old name Nergis. Before all other, I saw a rare kind with a double yellow Flower, called Mo∣daph, and a strange Convolvulus hederae foliis, with great purple Flowers, whereout grew Seed-ves∣sels, as you see in the new Harmala, with three distinct Capsula's, wherein is kept its black Seed, to which they attribute the vertue of eva∣cuating tough Slime. This is found sometimes in Gardens, and by the Inhabitants called Ha∣snisca, and the Persians Acafra, and Serapio, Chapt. 273. Habalnil; the Latines, Granum In∣dicum, and Carthamus Indicus; and he that hath a mind to know more of it, let him look into the Author himself, in the above-mentioned place, in the 306th Chapter of Avicen. and the 208th of Rhases. I also found in their Gardens Balm, Basil, and a fine sort of Amaranthus, which for his colour-sake may be called Sym∣phonia Plinii, and therefore called Parrots Fea∣ther.

I cannot forbear, before I conclude, to men∣tion some which I found here and there in the Batzars, and among them a strange sort of Lil∣lies, which as I am told grow in sunny, moory, mossy, and moist places; whereon groweth a long Stalk of the same colour and thickness of ours, only a great deal broader, but broadest of all at top, where it is about three fingers broad, so that it is like unto a Spatula that is painted at one end: On this Stalk grow at each side se∣veral tender Leaves, which are pretty long, but very small and pointed, and at the top thereof some white Flowers like unto ours. When I was thinking of this at several times, what they were called by the Ancients, it came into my mind, that I had read of them in Theophrastus, lib. 4. cap. 9. and I really believe it to be the same. But whereas Theophrastus writes in the quoted place, that they do not touch the Ground, I can say nothing to it, for I never saw any of them growing. They have also some small Roots to sell, called Mamirani tchini, good for Eyes, as they say; they are yellowish like Curcuma, but a good deal longer, and thin∣ner, and knotted, and very like unto our Po∣ligonatum, and may be esteemed to be the true Mamican, whereof Rhases maketh mention in several places. There is also among others brought a great quantity of the Juice of Scam∣mony, that is still very soft, it cometh in Lea∣thern Bags from out of the Country, and so it's sold to our Merchants in their Fondiques; but those that buy it must have a great care (because it is often adulterated) that they be not cheated. There is also a good deal of the Juice, by the Apothecaries called Opium, and

by the Inhabitants Ofinn, which the Turks, Moors, and Persians, and other Nations take in∣wardly, not only in War, at the time when they go to fight their Enemies, to make them couragious and valiant, but also in time of Peace, to drive away Melancholy and Care, or at least to ease it. Their religious People make also use of it, but above all the rest the Deruis, and take so much of it, that it maketh them presently drowsie, and without considera∣tion, that when, after their barbarous and silly way, they cut, slash, or burn themselves, they may feel less smart or pain. If any one hath so begun to make use of it, (they take about the quantity of a large Pea at a time) they cannot well leave it off again, except they have a mind to throw themselves into a Sickness or other Inconveniencies: For, as they confess them∣selves, that if they omit taking of it, they find themselves very ill in their Bodies. Opium is commonly taken from the white Poppy-heads, in their Language called Cascasch, wherein they cut (when they are young and tender) a spiral or winding-circle round about it from top to bottom, one under the other; out of those runs some Milk, which they let be there until it groweth thick, then they gather it and make it into Balls, like unto our perfumed Soap-balls. Being that the Turks use this Opium so com∣monly, it happens sometimes that they take so much of it, that it is very dangerous; wherefore they have an Antidote (as I was in∣formed) that is the Root Aslab (whereof I have made mention before) which they give to bring them to rights again.

I found also in the great Batzars a sort of Alga sold in their Shops, which was dark-red, and therefore very useful for Dyers; it had Stalks of the thickness of a Finger, and was surrounded with several thin Scales, or rather Leaves, and round: Wherefore it may be ta∣ken to be a Saderva Serap. and Herb Alargi∣van of Andreas Bellunensis, whereof he maketh mention in his Index, where he interpreteth the Arabian words. For a kind of this may also be taken (because it affords a delicate purple colour) that Alga that is found in the Seas near Candia, and is described by Theophrastus in his Fourth Book and Seventh Chapter. Lastly, Among the rest, I did also enquire after the Amomum, and thought, because they were near unto the Confines of Armenia, that therefore they might easily have it by the Caravans, which come daily from those parts; yet I was forced to run a great while after it, till at length I got a little Stalk thereof in one Shop: They call it by the name of Hamama. But of the other, so called by Dioscor. which is like unto it, and therefore may easily be ta∣ken for the right one, they had a great deal. These two small Shrubs, although they are very like to one another, yet for all that they may be distinguish'd by their Stalks and different colours. Wherefore Dioscorid. bids us (if we will not be imposed upon) to pick out the big∣ger and smoother, with its noble Seed, and to leave the small. This Stalk, which I found about the length of a Finger, is almost of the colour of the Bark of the Cinnamon-tree, and also in its acrimony and good odour (although it was old) still very strong. At the top had

been several woody Stalks, close to one another, whereon I believe had been the Flowers and Seeds. But the Twigs of the other sort, which are crack'd and bended, are of a brown colour, which at the top divide themselves into other less ones, like a Tree, whereon grow several Stalks, with little Heads like unto the Masaron, or Marum Syriacum from Crete, wherein is no great strength nor odour.

Thus much I thought convenient to men∣tion of strange Plants, chiefly of these the an∣cients make mention of, and so I conclude the first part of my TRAVELS.

Here endeth the First Part.

THE SECOND PART OF THE TRAVELS OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff, INTO The Eastern Countries. Wherein is treated of his Journey from Halepo, through the famous Town of Babylo∣nia, to Badgee; what he saw by the way, and what did befal him in going and coming by Water and by Land. With a brief account of the high Mount of Libanus; of the strange Plants and Inhabitants thereof.

THE SECOND PART OF THE TRAVELS OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff INTO THE Eastern Countries. Wherein is treated of his Journey from Halepo through the Famous Town of Babylonia, to Bagdet; what he saw by the way, and what did befal him in going and coming by Water and by Land. VVith a brief Account of the high Mount of Libanus, of the strange Plants and Inhabitants thereof.

CHAP. I.

How I departed from Halepo to the Famous City of Bir, and how I sailed from thence on the Euphrates to old Babylon.

AFter I had stay'd a good while in Halepo, and had seen and understood the Trade and Merchan∣dices of the Inhabitants, together with that of all the other Nations, viz. Grecians, Arme∣nians, Georgians, Arabians, Persians, and Indians, which come and go daily with their Caravans, and very well

observed and understood their Manners and Customs, and had also Collected a fine parcel of foreign and unde∣scribed Plants; I resolved to go farther Eastward into Mesopotamia, Assyria, and Babylonia, &c. as the anci∣entest and most fruitful Countries that ever were, where the ancientest People, and the most Potent Mo∣narchs did inhabit. But these Countries lying far off, and the Way that leadeth thither, passing through vast Desarts and Wildernesses, and therefore the Voyage be∣ing so much the more difficult and dangerous to at∣tempt and accomplish; I first look'd out for a trusty Companion, to take as my Assistant, and met pre∣sently with an experienced Dutchman, that had lived a great while in Halepo, who granted my request (be∣ing as desirous to go this Voyage as my self) to go along with me. We agreed presently, and began to consider, which was our best Way to take. But that we being Strangers, might not be taken to be Vaga∣bonds or Spies (they being very suspicious) from whence they might presently take occasion (as the Turks use to do) to lay great Avarias, or unjust Taxes, upon us, which the Christians that deal to these Parts, have of∣ten to their great Loss and Damage experienced; we did consider, and found, that the Trading here was very great, so that they did not only deal from hence, into Armenia, Egypt, and Constantinople, (for from thence come the Caravans through Natolia, in about a Months time) but also very much into Persia and India: Where∣fore we thought best to profess our selves Merchants, that so we might Travel the more safely with other Merchants, in order thereto, to buy some Merchandices, that would Sell in those Places, and to carry them a∣long with us. That we might put this in execution, my formerly mentioned Friend Hans Ʋlrich Raft, from Ʋlm, took great Pains to furnish me at my De∣sire and Request, with several fit Commodities for those Places, upon account of my Patron, Mr. Melchior Manlich, which I got pack'd up immediately, to go with them to the Famous City Bagdet, situated upon the Tigris, where is a great Staple and Deposition of Merchandices that are to go farther for Persia and India.

But seeing that seldom any Merchants go from Ha∣lepo further into these Countries, so that our Habits are very rarely seen there; we cloathed our selves as is usual, in the common Turkish Habit (that every body might not presently look upon us as Strangers); first, we had long blue Cabans, which are button'd before quite down, and cut out about the Neck, not unlike to those of the Armenians; and white Drawers made of Cotton, that hung down to our Ankles, and were drawn in, and tied about our Bodies, and also Shirts after the same Fashion, and without Collars. We also fitted our selves with white Turbants with a blue Brim, such as Christians usually wear, and put on yellow Shooes which were painted, before guarded with Nails, and with Horse Shooes behind. Besides this we put on a kind of a Frock, made of a certain course Stuff called Meska in their Language, which is common among the Moors. They are generally made of Goats and Asses Hair, pretty nar∣row, without Sleeves, and short, reaching only to our Knees. But these Stuffs being not all alike, the finest thereof (chiefly that which is striped white and black) is taken for Cloaths; and the courser for Tents and Portmantles, wherein they carry their Provision through the Desarts, and also keep their Camels and Mules meat, hanging it about their Necks. This puts me in mind of the plain cloathing which the ancient Inhabitants of these Countries, (chiefly the Israelites, when they mourned for their deceased Relations, or when they repented of their committed Iniquities, and turned from them, and prayed God to forgive them their ac∣cumulated Transgressions) used to put on, as we read in the 37th. Chapter of Genesis, where Jacob lamented the Death of his Son Joseph; and in the Book of the Prophet Jonas, of the Ninevites, who believing the Prophet's Words, denouncing their Destruction within Forty Days, and repenting of their Sins, put on Sack∣cloth, and prayed to God for forgiveness. The like we read of the King and Prophet David, after he had numbred his People. Item, in the 10th. Chapter of Luke and other places, &c. that they put on Sackcloth and did repent in Ashes. It is therefore very probable,

that those were very like unto them that are still in use.

When we had thus accoutred our selves for the Voyage, and provided us with all Necessaries, viz. Cloths, Merchandices, Provision of Biskets and Drink, and did stay only for some Fellow-travellers, we were still doubtful whether it were more convenient for us to go by Land with Caravans, which go from hence and Da∣mascus very strong to Bagdet, through great Sands and Desarts in Fifty Days, more or less, according as the Weather proveth: Or, whether we should go by Water, either upon the Tigris or the Euphrates, there being good Opportunity to go in Company with others. But it happening that we met with some Armenian Merchants Servants that did live at Halepo, who were also provided with Goods, and had a mind to go into the same Countries, we did readily embrace this Opportunity, partly because they understood the Turkish and Arabian Languages, which two are chiefly spoken in Syria, and partly because some of them had been four times al∣ready in the Indies; wherefore we put our Goods to theirs, and loaded a great many Camels together, to deliver them to us at Bir, to ship them there upon the Euphrates; And that we might pass every where in the Turkish Dominions, we took a Pass from the Bashaw and Cadi, and so we began our Travels to Bir, distant Three Days Journey, the 13th. of August, Anno 74. By the way we were so strange to one another, that in our new Fashioned Cloaths we did hardly know one another among them all. After we had the first Day a rough Road, and travelled through many Desarts and uninhabited Places, we reached at Night a little Vil∣lage, where we encamped and pitched our Tents. We put all our Packs in a circle round about us, and with∣out them our Beasts (as it is usual in great Caravans) to defend us from the Assaults of the Moors in the Night. A little after Midnight we heard a great Ca∣ravan of many Camels and Asses to go by, very near to us, which after it was passed, we broke also up and followed them; when the Day Light appeared, we saw several plow'd Fields more than the Day before, and

also here and there in some pleasant Places many Tents of the Arabians, which were fixed together as it were in a Camp; ranged very orderly into Streets. After we had that Morning travelled very hard, so that our Beasts under their heavy Loads began to be tired in the great Heat, we rested behind a little Chapel, to refresh our selves, and to feed our Camels; in the mean time some poor Women came down from the High-lands to us to gather the Dung of our Camels to burn it in∣stead of Wood, whereof they were in great want. When the great Heat was over, and we had staid there for two Hours, we went on again, and came before it was Night, to a little Village lying in a Valley, near which upon the Height, the Arabians had formed a great Camp: We went up to them, and pitched our Tents in the Plain by them, and kept as abovesaid a good Watch. They came quickly to us, spoke kindly to us, and their Wives brought us Water and good Milk; but after we saw that they were very naked and hungry, and in their shape like to our Gypsies, we did not trust them at all, but kept a very good Watch all that Night. These are Vagabond People, that are used to Idleness from their Infancy, and will rather endure Hun∣ger, Heat and Cold, than get any thing by their Handy-work, or Till the Fields, or Plant Garden-herbs for their Maintenance, although they might do it in several fruitful Places in their own possession. So you find here a great Number of them by the sides of these sandy Desarts, that have no where any Habita∣tion, but live in their Tents like as the Beasts do in Caves, and go like unto the Gypsies from place to place, until they light on one, where they may live a great while with their Cattle, and when all is eat up, want dri∣veth them from thence, to look out for another.

On the 15th. early before break of Day, we were up in the cool of the Day, with an intention to reach to Bir that Night, but our Camels were grown so faint by reason of the excessive Heat and the great Burthens, that they fell down several times, wherefore we look∣ed out for a convenient place where we might stay all Night, and found at last a Village near which we

pitched our Tents, eat some Gourds and Biskets, and so went to rest.

Two Hours before break of the Day, we began our Journey again, and came early in the Morning to the great River called Euphrates, we went over with our Goods and Chattel, and fixed our Tents before the Town near the River, on the other side, to stay for a Barge that was to come from Armenia, to go from thence to Babylon, which is now called Felugo. By the way I saw no Herbs of any worth, except the Galega, in our Language called Goats-rue, which grew plenti∣fully on the dry Heaths; and near to the Road, the first sort of Apocynum, by us called Dogs-bane, very like unto the great Celandine in its Leaves and Pods: I also saw whole acres of Turkish Corn called Sesamo, and o∣thers all sown with Cotton, and also a kind of Esula, very full of Milk, wherewith the fallow Grounds were so filled up, that at a distance, you would have taken it for good Corn. Seeing that the Scammony that uses to be brought to Halepo, is wont sometime to be very sharp, therefore it may very well be, that they adul∣terate it with this Esula. Near the Town grew abun∣dance of Acacia, called Schack and Schamuck, as is a∣bove mentioned, which are here in Stem and Fruit, greater and larger than ever I saw any any where. The Town Bir is situated on the other side of the great Ri∣ver Euphrates in Mesopotamia, near the high Hill Taurus, just like Tripolis near the Libanus, or our Losanna on our Alps: It is neither big nor strong, but pretty well defended by a Castle that lyeth on a high Rock above the River, not easily to be taken. There is a very plea∣sant Country round about it, and very fruitful, which (chiefly on this side of the River where it is plain) is very well Tilled and Sown with Corn (which they did just thrash out when we came, with little Waggons drawn by Oxen) and here and there are very good Villages. But beyond the River it is more hilly, which kind of Ground extends it self a great way towards the East, and divideth Armenia from Mesopotamia. It is at the top very rough and bare; nothing but Bu∣shes and Herbs to be seen there; wherefore abundance

of Beasts, chiefly Lambs and Goats, are daily brought down, which are carried over the Euphrates, and so driven to Halepo and other adjacent places. This Ri∣ver where it runs by the Town is about a Mile broad, and so deep that it is not easy to make a Bridge over it: Yet because it hath not a swift Current in that place, it is not very dangerous to Sail on it, except where it enlargeth it self (as it doth in great Desarts) or else where it divideth it self into several Branches, so that the Water-men do not know, which is the best way for them to take; wherefore the Merchants that have a mind to come quicker and with less Pains to Bagdet with their Merchandices, carry them by Land to Orpha, to the Famous Town of Carahmet, which lyeth Six Days further towards the East, on the Bor∣ders of Assyria and Media, upon the rapid River Tigris, where is a great Deposition of Merchandices, that are sent from thence to Ormutz and the Indies. The Eu∣phrates is continually muddy, and therefore almost not fit to be drunk, except you let it stand Two or Three Hours, until the Sand and Mud is sunk down to the bottom, which sometimes is of the thickness of an Inch: So that in every House where they have no Wells, all along the River in Towns and Villages, they have several great Pots which they fill out of the Ri∣ver, and let them stand until it be setled, but if they have occasion to drink of it before, they drink through their Towels.

During the time of our staying there they brought us several sorts of Fishes they had caught in the River to Sell, and among the rest one sort called Geirigi, which in their Shape and Scales were very like unto Carps, only they were not so thick in the Belly, but a great deal longer and bigger, so that sometimes one of them did weigh three Rotula's of their Weight, which is about Seventeen or Eighteen of our Pounds. They are very delicate and good to eat, and so cheap, that we could buy one for one Medin, in our Money worth a∣bout three Pence. To catch these, our Ship's Crew flung out oftentimes some Pellets made up with Coc∣culus Indic; (which Fruit is named by them Deam Sa∣mec)

and presently after some of the Fish flung them∣selves up at the top of the Water, whereupon they jum∣ped out of the Ship, to catch them, and to carry them a-shoar. I saw also a peculiar sort of Vultures, which were so tame, that they did not only sit very thick upon the Houses, but they sat down in the Street be∣fore all the People without any fear, they are more of an Ashen Colour than ours, but for bigness, height and the rest, exactly like unto them. Besides these there was another sort of them, that were something bigger, and of a lighter Colour than the former, and had some black at the Ends of their Wings like unto our Storks. They eat also Carrion, and Meat, and are somewhat wilder, wherefore they may be affirmed to be the very same that Rhasis called Gyuni, and Avicenn, Rachame. During the time that we staid there, a Bashaw was sent hither by the Turkish Sultan, with some hundred Spa∣hi's, pretty well armed, for his Master did intend to make War with the Trusci, that so he might de∣fend the Confines of Syria, Mesopotamia, and Ar∣menia, &c. from being assaulted by them, and to keep every thing secure. The Trusci live on the Mountain of Libanus, and pretend to be the Off spring of those People that under Godfrey de Bouillon did possess them∣selves again of the Land of Promise. They are since so much encreased, that they are able to bring into the Field Sixty Thousand (most of which are very good Gunners) which if occasion be, they can bring toge∣ther in a short time. The Grand Signior seeing that they encreased daily, so that he did fear they would be in time too great for him, to prevent this (as then the common Discourse went) and to subdue them, and bring them under his Yoke, did summon some Ba∣shaws and Sangiacs, chiefly him of Damascus to bring together a great Army, to fall upon them. But which way he did beat them, and how he encroach∣ed upon them, I shall (because I did for this time, during my Travels, hear no more of it) relate more largely after my return. The Spahi's which came with the Bashaw, took (because they would not be Idle) their Diversion in Running, Shooting with Arrows,

and in Fencing, or Cudgel-playing, and sometimes the Country People came in with them, and played with them, but not in so many sorts of Arms as the Fencing-Masters do in our Country, viz. with Daggers, Swords or Halbarts, for these are not in fashion in those Coun∣tries. They take instead thereof only Cudgels, with them they approach towards one another three times, yet not with such flourishes and neatness as our Fen∣cers do before they begin, for their long Cloaths hinder them. In their left hand they have a Buckler which is about a Foot Diameter round, covered with Lea∣ther, and stuffed out with Hair; in their right Hand they have a Cudgel, wherewith they strike strait at one another in the first bout, as the Boys do in our Country, but in the second and third bout, they strike cross-ways, chiefly in the third which is the last, which they take off cleaverly with their Bucklers; and some∣time they strike at one anothers Legs, but never to hurt one another; when this is done, they turn back and march off. This manner of Fencing is very common in these Countries.

At length after we had staid a great while, several Ships did arrive from above, and ours, for which we did stay, among them. So our Patron begun to load, and to fit himself for our departure: And so did two more that had a mind to go in Company with us. One among them belonging to a Turk was laden only with Corn, to carry during the Scarcity (which was oc∣casioned by the great Heat, and for want of Rain) to Bagdet. We also bought several sorts of Fruits, viz. Cibebs, Anguria's, Garlick and Onions, &c. and took also along with us some Ground Corn, as is usual to do in such Voyages, which with Rice Flower is fit to make Puddings, or to bake Bread of; Honey and other things to serve as Provision for our Ship; for we were to travel a great way through many De∣sarts and Places not inhabited, where nothing was to be had. For there are no Inns upon this River, as upon the Rhine or Danube, where they dress Victuals for Travellers against they come. And that we might have sometimes something Hot to eat, we provided our∣selves

with several Cooking Vessels (as is usual in these cases) to dress our Meat in. But the Master of our Ship still wanting both Men and Merchandices to load his Ship withal, we were forced to stay somewhat longer, for other Merchants which came in a little time from Halepo (whereof some were Armenians, some Persians, others from Bagdet and Balsora) to us; with these also came into the Ship Four Souldiers that were listed by the Turks to go to Bagdet, to rein∣force the Confines of Persia: Our Master also took in some of their Jews, which are worse than ours, and so we were warned to have a care of them. Besides all these we were forced to take in some of their Re∣ligious Men, which had long before begged there∣about, for they commonly live by begging, and desire you to give them something Alla hitsi, that is, for God's sake, and yet if they find an Opportunity they will fall upon you and Rob you. They are very ill-favour∣ed, idle, and yet very hardy Men, that run about all Countries, and often do a great deal of hurt; where∣fore one must have especial Care of them, chiefly upon the Road. Yet for all this they have in these Coun∣tries very great Privileges; they pretend to great Ho∣liness and Devotion, and pray often, and perswade the Vulgar sort of People, that God doth hear their Pray∣ers before any others, and grants their desires, but People do not believe them so readily now, as their Ancestors have done formerly, wherefore they do not re∣main long in one place, that their Roguery may not so much appear.

CHAP. II.

Which way we went into the Ship, and sailed to Racka; and how the Son of the King of Arabia with his Retinue came to our Ship to demand his Customs: What else we saw by the way, and what we did suffer from the Arabians and their Mendicants.

AFter our Ship as well as the others was sufficiently loaden, and with all Necessaries provided, we went aboard, and began our Voyage in the Name of God, the 30th. Day of August, Anno 74. (having stay'd there and lost Seventeen Days) in the Evening, with an intention to go that Night three Leagues further. But two of our Ships got into a branch of the River, where∣of there are several in the very beginning: Our Water∣men took great pains to bring them into the right way again, and stayed for them, which retarded us so long, that we were forced to stay all Night, at a Market-Town, called Caffra, which lieth a good League below, on the top of a Hill, where we landed.

The next morning at break of Day, we got in again and in the beginning we went on very fortunately, and began to leave by degrees on our left Hand, the Moun∣tain Taurus, which extendeth its self Eastward, and went more to the right, through the great Desarts and Sandy Places of Arabia, where that River divideth it self into several broad Branches, that the Skippers knew hardly how to steer the right way. When we went on so, thinking of no danger, for the Turkish Ship was got already very safe through one of them, the second (which we followed) stuck upon the Sand, by the ne∣glect of their Pilot towards the right, so that it did not only stick there, but took away the Stream from us, which turned their Ship cross very violently, after such a manner, that we were forced (because we were too

nigh, and our Ship was in her full running, so that we could turn no way) to fall foul upon it. So ours drove with the Stream upon theirs with that force, that we broke the two uppermost Boards of their side; so the Water ran in, and the Ship sank deeper. Our Ship, although it had received no hurt, yet did it not go on, but stuck by the other. Whereupon we began to la∣bour hard, removed the Sand below, and made a way to get it clear; after we had half drawn it before the o∣ther into the Stream, the Stream drove it so hard against the other that also a row and a half of our side-board were broken, and if it had broken the second row quite, we had incurred the same Mischief and Damage as they. When we were in this Condition, and could not otherwise think but that we must perish all together, yet our merciful God and Lord did order it so, that we did not only secure the breach, but came into the right River free and quit before the other Ship, where we did land immediately. After we had recovered our selves a little, we did not delay to assist the other, but unloaded our Ship, to load theirs into it, and so to land them, which we did with all speed: In the mean time appeared behind the Trees and Tamarisks at each side a good many Arabians, both on Horse-back and foot, and came so near, that they were not afraid to attack our Guards we had left with our Goods, and to attempt to rob us. But when they found resistance, and heard several of our Guns discharged on our side, they were frighted (for Guns were unknown to them) to that Degree, that they turned their Backs and run away as hard as they could drive. At last we attemp∣ted to draw out the Ship together with some small Goods that were still left in it, which succeeded very well, for when we hoisted our Sails and drew them on, and wrought with all our might and strength, it yield∣ed by Degrees, so that at length we got it quite off, and brought it a-shoar. The loss of their Merchan∣dices, although it was but small in quantity, yet it was very great in their Silk, Stuffs of Damasco, Soap, Sugar, Roots of Zarneb Melchi, which is good for the Pain in the Back, as is here before mentioned,

Figs and Corn, which suffered very much; wherefore they begged of us, that we would be pleased to stay with them, until they had dried their Goods and mended their Ship, so that they might go along with us more safely through these Desarts, which we granted them readily. During this our Stay, when we were helping them, it fell out that I and one of my Comrades were falsly accused by some Jews, before some of their Re∣ligious Men, that we were often fudling with the Master of the Ship, which the Jew did on purpose, to make us Out-landish Men hated among them (for they do according to their Law not easily admit of drinking of Wine) and to disparage us; and this his Intention did succeed so well that when their Clergy∣men did understand it, they became very angry with us, took our Vessel of Wine, flung it into the River, and drew it upon the Land where they let it run out, which did not well please the Souldiers and others, where∣fore they took our part, and did give the Jew for it a very severe Reprimand. But as no good Deed remain∣eth unrewarded, and no ill one unpunished, so it hap∣pened here; for the chiefest of them (which was a Moor and of the Order of the Dervis) was the next Day punished severely, for a frivolous Cause, whereof I unadvisedly was the occasion. While our Goods were yet on shoar I got towards Night upon the Balls to stand Centinel, it being my turn; so when I saw one with a Mug full of Water, I desired him to give me some to drink, which he was willing to do, and reached me the Mug, I going to take it, trod by chance upon a Fiddle of one of the Turks and broke it: Although he had had great occasion to be angry with me for this, yet (understanding that I had Giue enough to mend it) he was presently quieted and well contented. The next Morning we sat together and mended the Fiddle as well as we could; when the Dervis saw us busy about the Fiddle, he was very angry that we did not help to spread out the Merchandices, which we had done already before we began; so he took the Fid∣dle, broke it and flung it into the River; then he came back, and pretended to bang us, thinking to have the

same Success with this as he had with the Wine. But the Turk seeing this, took up a good Cudgel that was thrown up by the River, and struck him several times over his Head and Limbs, that the Blood ran down his Ears and Face, and at length he grew so angry that he went to draw his Scymeter, but before he could, we stept in between them, got them asunder, mitigated the business and appeased them. So this Saint of theirs looked very dismal in his long and lank black Hair, and had besides on his Body here and there several Scars, viz. on his Head and Breast, and above all upon his Arms, which he had cut or burnt himself, which is usual to that Order, and other Turks to do; which set often on their Flesh burning and red glowing Spangs, or instead of them Linen Rags, about an Inch thick twisted very hard together, broad below, and pointed on the top, tapering just like unto a Pyramid, which they set on Fire, and let it burn out with a great deal of Patience upon their bare Skin, so long until it is quite consumed and brought to Ashes, then they tie it up with Cotton; they also do the same sometimes in Rheums of the Head and Eyes, &c. to dry them up, or to turn them, and to draw them into another place. So I have seen several which have had at least Twenty Scars about them, but chiefly on their Arms, (whereof-some were of the bigness of a Shilling) besides Wounds and Scratches they had. But from whence they received this inhumane way (to wound and tor∣ment themselves) I do not know, except they had it anciently from the Priests of Baal, which used to wound themselves with Knives and Lances (as we read in the 18th. Chapter of the 3d▪ of the Kings) un∣til the Blood followed. These Holy Scars and To∣kens of their Zeal, I could soon see and observe on this Moor, for according to his Order (which is a very great one) he was to wear no Cloths upon his Body neither Winter nor Summer, only a little Scarf to cover his Privy Members withal: Instead of them they put Sheep Skins about them, whereon they lie also at Night, and so they serve them for Cloaths, Bed and Cover. And so they pretend by their exteriour Ap∣parel

and Behaviour, to great Vertue and Patience, as if they were dead to the World; and to a peculiar Holiness, in praying, fasting, watching, &c. whereas they are full of Roguery and Knavery, so that you shall hardly find any like them. With this came also several other Religious Men of several Orders, which were all in several distinct Habits, as they are in our Country; among them was a very strong, well set young Man, of the Order of the Geomaliers as they call it, which are rather Secular than Clergy∣men, they are generally Tschelebys, that is Gentle∣men and rich Persons, which take great delight in travelling in their young Days, under pretence of Ho∣liness, like Pilgrims, at other Peoples Costs, through several Countries and Kingdoms, to see and learn, and to get Experience. This had only a blue Coat on that covered his Body, tied about with a Sash and Shooes of Sheeps Skins, such as the Arabians in the Desarts use to wear. There went along with us Two more; whereof one had a great Ring in each Ear, about the thickness of a Finger, and so heavy that it stretched down his ear-laps to his very Shoulders. These are of the Order called the Calendriers, which lead a sober, and abstemious Life before People, wherefore they se∣parate themselves from the People, and walk about like Hermits into Desarts where-ever they can, to pray there ardently, and to cry out the hours (where∣of they have Five every Day) as the Priests do from the Steeples, wherefore this Man did separate himself as often as he had an Opportunity far from us, that the Beasts could rather see and hear him, than we that were in the Ship. When he had done this, he came to us again, and looked so devout∣ly as if he had been in a Rapture or Ecstasie. The other was a Dervis, whereof I have made mention before, which also kept to a very strict Order, for he prayed devoutly and ardently, chiefly at Night after Sun set, at what time two or three more used to come to him, and among them sometimes some of our Merchants; they did stand together in a circle, and so began to pray (as I heard often) first very lowly,

then by degrees louder, but when they came to the Leila Hillalla, &c. they were so loud, that you might hear them afar of, and then they repeated only these Words very often; and every time they repeated them, they turned their Head from one side to the other, as if they looked upon one another by turns, to shew their great Love one to another, so they repeat these words very often, and every time quicker and quicker, until they abbreviate them at last, and say only, Lahu Huhu. By this pratling or jabbering and moving of their Heads, they became at length so giddy and weary, that the cold Sweat ran down them. But this their Saint did not pronounce the words of their Prayers with the rest, but struck on his Breast with his Fist, upon his Heart, which gave instead thereof so strange a Tune, as if he had been hallow within, much like unto the Noise that a Turky-Cock uses to make when he is very angry, so that it would have frighted any Man, chiefly if he had been alone with him; and he would (with his terrible Face) rather have taken him to be an Appa∣rition than a Man. These above-mentioned Words he repeateth so often, and so long, until he fainteth away, and falls down, and there he lieth as if he were dead. Then the others cover him, let him lie and go their ways. After he hath lain thus a good while as if he had been ravished in his Prayers, or had seen a pecu∣liar Vision, he cometh to himself, riseth and appeareth again. All these Saints, although they practise their Religion after a peculiar manner, which according to their Opinion, is quite surpassing that which is pre∣scribed in their Law, to move the People the sooner (regarding their severity in living, their great Patience and frequent Ecstasies) to believe them, that they un∣der pretence of Piety, may go on in their hoggishness, uncleanness, and robberies (as they do) without any controuling: Yet because their idle Hypocrisie, and great Rogueries do daily appear more plainly, (not without great Damage to the Country) therefore they are no more in so great esteem, nor have so much given them as formerly. Concerning their strange way of Praying, (chiefly that of the Moors) their own

People have often told me, that because such a De∣votee changed his natural Voice given by him God, into an unnatural one, therefore he ought rather to be ac∣counted a Beast than a Man, and consequently much less ought to be esteemed a Divine. Thus much I thought convenient to relate here of their Mendicants that travelled with us, and now I come to my former purpose again.

After we had spent four Days in drying our Mer∣chandices, and in mending our Ships, we did load them again, and so set out the next Friday, being the 3d. of September, about Noon. All that Day we saw nothing but Bushes on both sides of the River, wherein were several wild Beasts, but above all wild Boars, till Night, when we came in sight of a little Village about two or three Miles distant, upon the ascent, on our left Hand, where we landed and stayed all Night. In that place I found nothing but a bastard Camel's Hay, which was like unto the true one, but without any Vir∣tue in it.

The next Day our Navigation proceeded very well, and at Noon we came to a strong Cittadel call'd Galant∣za, which is situated at this side of the River, on a Hill belonging to the King of Arabia, with whom the Tur∣kish Emperor (as I was informed, and could under∣stand, that did not know their Language well) had long and heavy Wars; and could have done him (be∣cause he could not follow him through the Desarts for want of Water and Provisions) no great hurt, if the King's Eldest Son had not put himself into this Castle, believing that he might be secure there from any As∣sault from without, wherein he was mightily mistaken. For after the Sultan did understand that he was there, he was resolved to take it notwithstanding all Difficul∣ties. And therefore he summoned all his Forces toge∣ther in the Year 1570. and did Assault it in three Places at the same time, so long and so often, until at length he took it by Storm, and so he made the King's Son his Prisoner, and carried him to Constantinople, where he had (as they say) his Head cut off the following Year. This Castle (being surrounded with strong Walls,

and having within a very high and large Tower) is still, according to my Apprehension, very strong, but yet it lieth in ruins, and the three open places remain unrepaired. At Night we landed in a small Island, which was not inhabited, and in the middle of the Ri∣ver, we did not question but we were there very well secured from the Arabians, and yet notwithstan∣ding, as soon as we had supp'd and began to go to rest, some of them came creeping along to us, about Mid∣night, rather to visit our Goods than us. But because they durst not venture to go to our Ships, without great danger of being discovered by our Watch, they did visit them that rested on shoar, and had taken some∣thing considerable from them, if they had not been discovered immediately by them, and had retaken from them again, that which they could not so readily carry over the River.

The Fifth Day of September, some Arabians appear∣ed on shoar early in the Morning; by and by we saw more at a great Distance upon the height, and some Squadrons of Horse of Forty or Fifty strong, ride a∣bout, from whence we concluded that the King's Camp was not far off, which proved to be true. For about Noon, after we landed, the King's Youngest Son came riding to us, on a high black Horse, with a Retinue of about Hundred Men, most of which had Bows, and long Pikes made of Reed. He was but young, about Twenty Four or Twenty Five Years old, of a brow∣nish Colour, and had a white Turbant on his Head made of Cotton, one end whereof hung down behind about a Span long, according to their usual Custom. He had on a long Gown made of ordinary Sheeps Skins with the Wooll on them, which hung down to his Ankles, and so had all his Courtiers, which were in their common Dress so like unto one another, that one could not have discerned them, if his had not been edged with some Gold Lists (as we use to edge Chil∣drens Coats in our Country) about the Neck and Sleeves, and had not had long Sleeves, whereon were some Escutcheons to be seen. Because Custom is due to the King of Arabia, by reason of the Euphrates,

therefore this Young Prince came to demand and take it; so he went into the River, and rode first to the Turkish Ship, to see what Goods they carried, but find∣ing nothing but Corn therein he did not stay long there, but came to ours, his Servants that were on purpose ordered for that, helped him soon up into it, and placed him in the middle of it on a Bale, but they themselves went about from one Merchant to a∣nother, to visit their Goods, and did open now and then a Chest or a Bale, and took some out of them more or less, according as they liked them, so that it was a great while before they came about from Mer∣chant to Merchant. In the mean while, they brought also into the Ship a Young Prince, perhaps two Years old, which one carried before him on Horse-back after his Father. He had nothing on but only a Cotton Shirt, and Rings about his Neck, Wrists and Legs, made of fine Arabian Gold. At length his Servants came to me and my Comrades into the Poop of the Ship; but before we began to shew them any of our Goods, they saw my Gun that was in-laid with Ivory, which they took immediately, to shew it to their Master, with a great deal of Admiration, being such a one as they had never seen in their Life before. The King took it presently into his Hands, and was mighty well pleased with it, and said that it was Outlandish-Work made by the Franks (by which Name they call Out∣landish-Men, French, German, Italian, &c. because they know no Divisions or Distinctions of our Country) so we went both to him, and acquainted him that we were lately come from those Countries, with an In∣tention to go into the Indies. After the King under∣stood this, he spoke very kindly to us, and bid his Man to leave off and to search no more our Goods, and enquired after several other things, and at length he told my Comrade that he thought he had seen him before: Which was very true; for when my Com∣rade lived at Halepo, where he had drove the Gold∣smith's Trade for a great while, he and others were sent to the King (who was then at a little distance from Halepo) by the Consul of Venice, to present him in his

Name, with several Presents (whereof some were cost∣ly and rich wrought Cloths) when they came to him, and presented them to him, he took them with a great deal of Kindness, and treated them very honourably, and shewed them several sorts of Sport, as Jumping, Running, &c. that they might see that he had a great many brave and handy Souldiers; and did dispatch them very generously again, and promised them (as my Friend told me) all Kindnesses, chiefly to their Ma∣sters, saying, That if they should have occasion to make use of him against the Turks, he would faithfully assist them, and that he did not doubt at all, if they should agree together, but they might go a great way with him in these Countries; nay, advance further up∣on the Turk in a short time, even to Constantinople it self. After the before-mentioned Discourse, the King went to his Tents, that were pitched on a Plain by a Hill, within two Miles of us, and took some of our Com∣pany along with him, to discourse his Father a∣bout our Concerns. I would willingly have presented the King with my Gun (altho' we had to travel through many Desarts) and perhaps he would have been plea∣sed with it, but durst not do it before the Turkish Souldiers, Mendicants and Jews, for I feared, that they would betray it, and accuse me before the Bashaw and Cadi's, which soon would have made me pu∣nishable, altho' innocent, as they use to do to Stran∣gers; nay, sometimes those of their own Nation; and besides, I did remember, that when the King was en∣camped near Halepo, and some of his Men did daily come into the Town, to buy Provision, Cloaths and other Things, that then it was strictly forbidden to Sell them any Arms, Bows or Pikes, to take along with them into the Desarts. After we had staid for our Friends a great while, they came so late to us, that we were hindred from going any farther that Day, for it began to be late, and so we stay'd there all Night. They told us, that the King, after they had told him that we came from Halepo, would not believe them, but thought rather we came from Saphet (which Town is within a Day's Journey of Sidon, which the Sultan

had taken from him a little while before) that he might have a Pretence to arrest us and our Goods; and that he did so obstinately persist in this Opinion, that they did really fear, he would have sent some of his Men with one of us to Halepo, to know the certainty there∣of, until they plainly demonstrated to him by their Letters from whence they came; whereupon he gave them Liberty to go on in their Journey. But I under∣stood afterwards, that it was only to press something more out of them, as he really did, for they were forced to give him some Knives tip'd with Silver that came from Damascus, and also some Damasks.

On the Sixth of September, we were up early, and passed between great Wildernesses, wherein were a∣bundance of Wild Boars, that appeared sometimes in great Herds: These Wildernesses continued so long, that we saw nothing else the whole Day but Woods, till in the Evening we came to Cala, a Village and Ca∣stle on this side of the River, which is no more but two Days Journey from Halepo, situated in a Plain; from whence you may conjecture how crooked the River is hitherto. This Castle belongeth to a great Bashaw, called John Rolandt, and also the fine House at Halepo, as is before mentioned. He hath very great Revenues and Sixty Sons: Six or Seven of them are Sangiacks, whereof some live at the Sultan's Court. Beyond this Castle on the other side of the River, we lodged all Night in the Wilderness, which continued so far, that we saw nothing all the next Day long, but only here and there a little Cottage of the Moors, which generally are built upon Four Sticks, and co∣vered with Bushes: Within them there are so many Children, that I have often admired at the Number of them. They run in their first Infancy to the River, and learn to swim so well, that they undertake without any fear to swim over the broad River. When we went by, the Moors saluted us very often, if the di∣stance did not hinder them, and that chiefly to learn of us where about their King was in the Country. For they have so great a Respect for their King (al∣tho' they are an Idle and Vagabond People) and una∣nimously

shew him such Obedience, as no other Na∣tion doth to their Superiours; which also you may guess by this, that if any Outlandish Man hath a mind to get safely through the Wilderness, or to see their King, let him but cloath himself in their Habit, and take a Moor along with him, to shew him the way, and to be his Interpreter, they will readily tell him the way to go to him; or when they see that he hath one of their own Nation with him, they let him pass without any Molestation or Examination. So that those that are Slaves on the Confines of Arabia, might easily free themselves without any trouble or danger. Their Wives did also often come to us, and brought us Milk in great flat Dishes, which they shewed us at a distance to sell; wherefore we did land sometimes, and received it, and gave them Biskets for it, for they have great want of Corn, so that this inter∣changing pleased us both. We used to break Biskets into this Milk, and so to eat it for Dinner or Sup∣per, and sometimes if it was too thick (or rather too little of it, that it might go the farther) we used to temper or mix it with Water. They have also some∣times put it into oblong Linen-Sacks, which it did hardly penetrate, and let it hang in the Ship for two or three Days, until it did curdle, and came to be in Curds, and so it used to serve us with Biskets and Onions for Breakfast or for Supper. When we did land and had time to spare, I used to look about me for some strange Plants, and among the rest, I found a peculiar Schoenanthum, which was very like in Fi∣gure unto the true one, but had not its Virtues, and the first kind of Rhannus of Carolus Clusius, with fat Leaves like unto Housleeke. I found also Goats Rue, and a strange sort of Willows, which still are called by the Inhabitants by their old Name Garb. There also were abundance of Tamarisks; they were as big and high as our Cherry or Plum Trees, wherefore these Trees are discerned soon at a distance by their height; they have very tender Leaves, and long purple co∣loured tops, as you see in the second kind of our Ta∣marisks, so that between them and ours, there is no

great Matter of Difference, but only in Bigness, and Fruit, whereof I found none at that time. The Moors feed their Cattle, for the most part, with those Bushes that grow at the River side, for in the Wilderness and Desarts (where the Ground is very sandy, lean and barren) there is but little Grass or tilled Ground, which occasioneth the great Scarcity of Bread among them, so that often they see none in a great while, and are forced to eat their other food, as Fish, Flesh, Cheese and Milk (which they take from Goats, Sheep, Camels, &c.) without Bread; so that these poor People make a shift with a mean Diet, and yet they are strong and in good Health, and live to a good Age. At Night before it was dark, I saw another Fortification, at the other side in Mesopotamia, on a high Hill called Jabar, belonging to the King of Arabia, which is very large, and hath several Towers in the Wall, so that as far as I could see, it was very like to that of Halepo. We stay'd all Night on this side of it, in an Island, where we had been robb'd again, If we had not kept a good Watch, so as to perceive the Thieves, and to let off several Guns: Yet this we did not to hurt, but only to frighten them; for if we should have kill'd or wounded any of them, they would have fetch'd imme∣diately, some (according as they are in strength) it may be, Thousand together, to revenge their Friend, to fall upon us, to beat us, and to plunder us (whereof they are very eager) and to take all we had. The same happened to us the next Day in another uninhabited Island of the River, where we would dress no Vi∣ctuals that Night, that they might not spy us by our Fire, to find us out and to fall upon us. For when we expected to keep our selves thus quiet, and to rest in good Tranquility, they did not miss us, but came to us in a greater Body than before, and that so near, that we could not only hear them, but they began to talk with us. But when we saw that they were in earnest, we rouzed up our selves, and got into Order, and spoke big to them, and bid them to offer no Violence to us, for if they did, they would find greater Resi∣stance than they expected. But when we saw that this

our Exhortation would do no good, we were forced a∣gain to have recourse to our Guns, whereof we had but three, which we let go off, which frightened them in such a manner (for they are not used to them) that they ran away, and left us in quietness. But it is no wonder that the Arabians are so restless, for they are full of Want and Nakedness, have not to fill their Belly, nor to cover their Body withal; besides; they have no∣thing else to do, and are used to idleness from their very Infancy, and then because they hate to Work, they are forced to wander like Vagabonds from one place to another. And (if they will maintain them∣selves and theirs) to seek their livelihood from those that travel through their Country. So several times there came two, three, or four together, swimming through the River, were it never so broad or deep, to our Ship, whereof some were black, and some brown, which came as naked into our Ship as ever they were born into the World, to beg a piece of Bread; to each of them we gave as much as would content them, so they went sometimes for a whole League along with us; and when they had eaten the Bread, and thanked us, they jumped into the River again and swam away. Besides these we saw daily as we went along many more, swim over the River, which com∣monly had some Bucks Skins blown up, whereon they tried to get over the easier (for the River is so broad, that it is not easy to make a Bridge over it, neither did I find any.) They take their Shirts (for besides them they wear no other Cloaths) tie them with their leathern Girdles about their Heads, and therein stick their Daggers (which are pretty broad and bended like unto a Scythe) which hang down by their Tem∣ples.

The Ninth Day our Voyage went on again chearily, and we came pretty near to the Town Racka, (which belongeth to the Turkish Emperour) but it did not continue so long, for before we had Dined and eaten a few Fruit, viz. Cibels, Anguries and Indian Musk-Melons, to refresh our selves in the great Heat, we incurred greater Danger again than that we were in be∣fore,

for our Ship (which was a great deal bigger than either of the other two) did strike upon the Sand so se∣verely, that we could not bring her off again with∣out the assistance of others, (as we had done several times before) nor bring her into the right way again. So we were forced to desire the Arabians our Antago∣nists, which stood and looked upon us, rather rejoicing in our Misfortunes, than pitying us, to assist us, which at length we did obtain, and so they came to help us: But because they had their Daggers, and great Cud∣gels, which they use to wear with them, we durst not trust them, but were forced to leave a small Guard in the Ship, but the rest of us helped them with all our Force and Strength, but we could not stir her, so that they went away twice and left us. At last we concluded, that we had no better way, than to unload our Ships, yet we durst not do it for fear of the Arabians, nor venture our Merchandices; so we resolved to draw her out another way, wherefore we desired the Arabians a third time, to assist us, and if they were in earnest to help us, we begged of them to lay down their Arms, which at length, upon our promising them a good Reward, they did. When they came we took also our Guard to our Assistance, set all hands at work, and with hard Labour we brought it at length into the right Stream again, so we paid the Arabians, and went on, and came that same Night to Racka.

CHAP. III.

Of the City of Racka, and of its Situa∣tion, and also something of the Departure of the King of Arabia, and of his League with the Turkish Emperour, and also of the trouble we had with the Custom-House-Officer or Publican.

RAcka, a Town of Mesopotamia, is situated in the Desarts of Arabia upon the great River Euphra∣tes, between two ascents, so that you cannot see any thing of it before you come near it. There is a Castle by it, which is given to a Sangiack by the Turkish Em∣perour to keep it with 1200 Spahi's. This Town is pitifully Built, and not well Guarded with Walls, it having been built after the Desolation of the Old Town, which was situated on the Height, as one may see still by the Old Wall, and other Arches and Pil∣lars. Among the rest there is yet standing a very ancient high Building, which is still very strong, and looketh very great (although it is much decayed and run to ruin) and such as one shall rarely see, so that one may conjecture, that it hath perhaps been former∣ly the Seat and Habitation of their Kings or Magi∣strates. Between the New and Old City lieth a Ca∣stle, which is also Old and pretty strong, where is kept a Turkish Garrison, it being on the Confines or Limits of Arabia and Persia, &c. to defend them and all the Country from Danger and Incursions. The Old Town is besides this quite demolished, and even with the Ground, so that here is no convenient place where the Turks can exercise themselves in Running, Cudgel-playing, &c. but this, where I have often sate upon the ruined Walls and looked upon them when they were a Playing. To the Desolation of this Town, have very much contributed the Tartars, under their

King Haalono, who took it in the Year of our Lord, 1260, and not long after the Town and Castle of Halepo, with the help of Ayton King of Armenia. Some will have this to be the Town of Rhages, which is also called Edessa, whither the Ancient and Pious Tobias, did send his Son from Nineve, to his Friend Gabel, to fetch the Money from him which he had lent him: But because this lies a Day's Journey further from the River Euphrates, therefore it cannot be the same.

After we had landed there, the Receiver of the Custom came on Horse-back to the shoar, and desired the Master of the Turkish Ship, to deliver his Arms, Lances and Bows, who absolutely denied it, seeing that it never had been a Custom before; whereupon they fell about this into such a hot Dispute, that they began to draw upon one another, and had not we time∣ly put in between them, it would have caused a great Tumult. The reason why this Man behaved himself so strangely, was because we did not go with our Goods to Carahemit (which Town is distant four Days Journey, and situated on the rapid River Tigris) to have laid there upon that River, where he would have received a great deal more Custom, that also be∣longing to him. But the Turk not mattering him, having nothing in but Corn, which he would not carry, he let him alone, and came to us as Strangers, think∣ing to make up his Loss from us, and to frighten us out of it. He staid all Night in the Ship, and lay be∣tween us (fearing that we should hide some Goods from him;) and sometimes he came upon us with big Words, saying, Seeing that it was not allowed to us Out-landish Men to travel in these Parts, therefore he could not but take us to be Spies, that came to discover, rather than for any thing else, wherefore he had rea∣son enough to take our Goods in Arrest, and to send us two as Spies to Constantinople, to make us Slaves to his Master, the Great Sultan. After we had heard this his unreasonable Discourse, and were also sensible of his Intention to cheat us, we were not presently frightned, but drew out our Pass we had from the Bashaw and Cadi of Halepo, and shewed it to him.

He looked it over, and after he understood that he durst not very well act against it, he went away from us with a deal of Indignation, and immediately he be∣gan to quarrel with all the Merchants of the two Ships, and desired of them an unreasonable Sum to pay him as Toll, whereof they complained heavily; but he went on and would accept of no reasonable Condi∣tions, but took away our Rowers from our Ships, to hinder us from going away, to squeeze us the more. But the Merchants although they saw his earnestness, they did not matter it, but sent on the 11th. of Sep∣tember one of them with a Moor to Carahemit, to the Great Bashaw, which was the Son of Mahomet Bassa, to complain to him of these Impositions and Extor∣tions. When the Toll-keeper did understand this, he followed them with his Son immediately. But because he did not find the Bashaw (which was then in ano∣ther place called Giselet, whither our Friend was forced to follow him three Days Journey from thence) he re∣turned again immediately. Although he did not speak with the Bashaw, yet he falsly told us, that it was the Bashaw's Order that we should pay him Ten Ducats per cent. Notwithstanding that, ours did not know any thing, yet they would not trust him, but had carried the best and greatest Part of their Goods out, before he came into the Ships to search, and also some thereof they buried in the Sand by Night, where the Turks and Moors went over by Day Light, and yet they could find none of these hidden Goods. The next morning early the Publi∣can came with his Crue, and searched every thing with a great deal of Care, as if he had a peculiar Com∣mand for it, but did not find any thing near (as you may think) what he expected. When he was thus very busy in exercising his Office, our Friend came in at last, and told us, that the Bashaw was very much displeased, that the Publican did deal so unjustly with us, contrary to the Orders and Law of his Master the Grand Signior, and did keep us so long, and hinder us in our Navigation. Wherefore he had writ to the Sangiack in our behalf, and ordered him on pain of

Death, to take all Care that we might not be detained any longer, but to take the Publican Prisoner, and to send him to Constantinople, to have him tried at the Court kept for that purpose every 15th. Day, and that he feared very much, that he would pay for this his Misdemeanour with his Life.

In the mean time we were thus detained Pri∣soners on the Rivers of Babylon, expecting with a deal of Patience the time of our Deliverance, it happened, that the King of Arabia broke up with his Retinue from here-about on the 21st. Day of September, and travelled towards the South in great Numbers, to find better Pastures for his Beasts, as Horses, Asses, and Camels, that they might the better subsist; for in these Places there are not so many Villages, Towns and Market-Towns, where they might have their conti∣nual abode. Neither do they love Farming nor Tra∣ding, but are contented, if they have a great Stock of Cattle, and good store of Grass for them, that they may keep them. So if they come to a Rivolet, where a little Herbage or Grass groweth, they immediately erect their Tents there, to stay there till want forceth them to remove, and to look out for another Place. When they break up, they take along with them Man, Maid, Beasts and all their whole Substance, as I did see them remove at this very time, and come towards this Town in great Numbers, so that the Turks kept their Gates shut up for four Days, until they were all pass'd by. On Horse-back they are armed with Darts and Bows, &c. and also if they ride on Camels, where∣of they have a very great Number, chiefly when the King is moving from one place to another, as some of them did relate to me, where generally are imployed 150000. I my own self have once seen at one time to∣gether about the number of 3 or 4000 Camels. They are strong and hardy Creatures, fit to carry heavy Burthens, and also to subsist without Drinking in the greatest Heats for Three Days together. They stale out between their hind Legs, so that those that go in Caravans behind them must have a great Care, that they be not hit by them, and so become all bedaubed.

Their Horses are very Noble, Neat, and fit for business; they seldom feed them more than once a Day, altho' they ride them very hard all Day long through the Wildernesses. They commonly cut off all the Hair from their Mains and Tail, so that their Tails remain very naked, and look something like the Tail of a Lion. They put their Wives on little Asses, and also upon high Camels with their Children, three or four of them to∣gether in Boxes, as it is the fashion in these Countries. They are of a brown Colour like unto our Gypsies, and almost the fourth Part of them black, which dif∣ference of Colour proceedeth from that in travelling up and down, to places where Blacks are. They some∣times leave their own there, and take Blacks in the room of them. The King of Arabia is always en∣camped in the Fields, and never cometh into a place that is shut up or enclosed; and this the less now, after the Mischance of losing his Son that retired into one, happened; so he goeth from place to place like unto the Tartars, so that often it is not known where he is. In the Summer time he goeth further to the North, and in the Winter to the South, to avoid both the Heat and Cold, and to have better Subsistance and Provision for himself, his Men and Cattle. So it hath happened several times, that the Arabians in their march have come too near to the Turks Dominions, and the Turks again to his, from whence arose be∣tween these two great Princes such Differences, that they are come to great and bloody Wars. And yet for all this (as I am credibly informed) they have now both made a peculiar League and Contract be∣tween them, wherein it is agreed that if the Grand Turk should go to a War with his Neighbours, then the Arabian King will Assist and Defend him, where∣fore the Grand Signior writes to him as his Cousin and good Friend, and is to pay him the sum of 60000 Ducats yearly as his certain Salary or retaining Fee. And besides all this, the Sultan sends to the New King of Arabia after the Decease of the Old one, a Standard with his Coat of Arms in it, which toge∣ther with other Presents he sends him, with usual

Ceremonies, to congratulate him on his happy coming to the Throne, and to renew and confirm their Allian∣ces. Their Religion doth contribute not a small matter to this, which (together with all their Ceremonies, and all other Points) is the same almost they profess in both Nations: And they take as many Wives as the Turks do, neither do they extol or magnifie one before the other, because they come from better Parents, being they buy them all from them. And therefore none of them is excused, because she cometh from a greater Ex∣traction, from doing the Family-business, nor hath a poor one more put upon her, because she came from mean Extraction. So one of the King of Arabia's Wives is a Daughter of a Man that keepeth a Sawing-Mill at Racka, which by him (although of a mean Extraction) is as much respected as any of the rest. Her Father and Brothers are very good People; they came very often to us, and shewed great Compassion, for that we were so abused by the Publican. His Milk is not drawn by Horses as ours are, nor by Water, (for they know nothing of that) but two of them cut the Wood with great hand-labour. During our staying there, a Young Arabian Gentleman, nearly related to the King of Arabia, came very often to us to the Water-side, who was always accompanied with Twenty Servants with Bows and Darts; he had a delicate white Tur∣bant on, and a long Violet, coloured Caban made of Wooll, but his Servants went pretty bare, for some of them wore black Caps and long Indigo coloured Shirts with wide Sleeves, which they girt up with broad Lea∣thern Girdles, wherein stuck bended Daggers or Bago∣nets, as it is their usual Custom. It once happened, that some of us being upon the High-Town Walls to∣gether, from whence we had a pleasant Prospect down into the Valley to the great River Euphrates, this same Gentleman came to us again, and seated himself with his Retinue over against us, and presented us with some dried Cicer Pease (whereof I have made mention before) and some Cibebs mixt together, which we thankfully received; and to shew our thankfulness, we presented him again with some Almonds, Figs, Nuts,

and some very good Sweet-meats we had brought with us from Halepo, which he also received very kindly. So we all began to eat each of us part of his Present, and drunk with it some Water of the Euphrates. After we had eat them all, and we thought the time to be long, he beckon'd to one of his Musicians, and bid him to divert us with his Instrument, which he pulled out presently (which about the Neck looked very like unto a Cittern) and we expected to hear some rarity, but when I looked upon it, and saw it had but one String that was as big as a Cord of their Bows, he began to play some of their Tunes, but with what Art and Dex∣terity you may easily fansie. He did this for almost two Hours, and according to his Opinion very harmoni∣ously, but we thought the time so long, that we were very glad when he had done.

About the River I found that sort of Acacia that beareth roundish and brown-coloured Pods, called Schock and Schamuth by the Arabians: Some Thorns called Algul, whereon the Manna falleth, chiefly in the County of Corascen, as Avicen tells us. Chamesy∣ces, some strange kinds of Mosses, which are very much differing in bigness: Among the rest I saw the low prickly Herb, by some esteemed to be the Tragun of Dioscorides. Below, close to the River, I found the Herba Sacra of Dioscorides, which the Learned Carolus Clusius hath accurately described in his Second Book and the 45th. Chapter of his History of Out-landish Plants; and just by these, more strange ones, chiefly a delicate one growing plentifully there in the Sand, which had from Five to Eight tender Stalks, which spread themselves into others, that were very full of Joints, so that it crept rather on the Ground than grew up; by each of them stood three or four roundish Marjoram or Origa∣num Leaves together, and above between them some Star like white Flowers, with six pointed Leaves like unto our Ornithogalum, each of them on a peculiar Foot∣stalk, the Seeds thereof I have not seen, but the Roots are small and fibrous, which together with their small bitterness, have a pretty exsiccating quality; and so in this respect are very like unto the Polycnemon of

Dioscorides, but whether it be the same or no, I leave the learned to decide. Besides those before as we came down the River, I saw a great many large Tamarisk Trees, and abundance of a certain kind of Agnus Castus, al∣most like unto the other, only a great deal less, and it had no more but three strong claver Leaves; but above all the Galega, called Goats-Rue in our Language, which in these Parts groweth very high, and in so great plenty, that on the River side I could see nothing but this for several Miles together.

CHAP. IV.

Of the Inhabitants of the Mountains, and the great Wilderness we came through to Deer: Of their ancient Origination, and miserable and laborious Livelihood.

UPon this good and severe Command of the Bashaw, Son of Mahomet Bashaw, we were acquitted of our long Arrest, and went away about Noon on the 27th. of September; we went again from thence through such great Desarts, that for some Days we saw nothing worth relating, but here and there little Huts made of some erected Boughs, and covered with some Bushes, wherein the Moors with their Families live, to secure themselves from the great Heat, Rain and Dews that are in these Parts most violent, so that I admired how these miserable People could maintain themselves and so many Children in these dry and sandy Places where nothing was to be had. Where∣fore these poor People are very naked, and so hungry that many of them if they saw us afar off, would fling themselves into the great River, and swim to us to fetch a piece of Bread. And when we flung at

them whole handfulls, they would snap at it just like hungry Fish or Ducks, and eat it: Others did gather it and put it into the Crown which they make neatly of their Sheets on the top of their Heads, and so swim away with it. After these sandy Desarts had continued a great while, we came at length out of them between high, rough and bare Hills, which were so barren, that there was to be seen neither Plough-Lands nor Meadows, neither House nor Stick, neither High-way nor Foot-path, wherefore those People that live there, have no Houses, but Caves and Tents, as they have in the great Desarts, where because of the great Heat and Driness, the Soil is so barren, that they cannot subsist in a place for any considerable time, nor have Villages or certain Habitations: Wherefore they wander up and down, fall upon the Caravans and plunder them, and make what shift they can to get a livelihood. These Mountains, as I am informed, reach to the River Jor∣dan, the Dead and the Red-Seas, &c. wherein are situated Mount Sinai, Horeb, &c. and the Town Petra, which by the Prophet Isaiah is called Petra of the De∣sarts. The Arabians that live in these Desarts, and round about them, are extraordinary Marks-men for Bows and Arrows, and to fling Darts which are made of Canes: They are a very numerous People, and go out in great Parties every where almost: they are a very ancient Nation, and come from the Sons of Ishmael, but chiefly from his Eldest Son Nebajoth, and were an∣ciently called the War-like Nabathees, and their Coun∣try, the Land or Province of the Nabathees, which Josephus testifieth in Book I. Chap. 21. where he says, that the Twelve Sons of Ishmael, which he had by an Egyptian Wife, (his Mother Agar, from whom they were called Agarens, as you may see in the first of the Chronicles and the sixth Verse, being also of the same Country▪) were possessed of all the Country between the Euphrates, and the Red-Seas, and called it the Province of the Nabathees. The Midianites that bought Joseph of his Brethren, and carried him into E∣gypt, may also be reckoned among these. This same Country is also chiefly by Pliny (because thereabout

are no other Habitations, but Tents, wherein the In∣habitants live) called Scenitis. From this we may con∣clude that the Prophet Isaiah in his 60th. Chapter, and David in his 120th. Psalm did speak of them, when chiefly the latter maketh mention of the Tents of Kedar, whereby he understands a Country that is inha∣bited by such a Nation as liveth in Tents, and is de∣rived from Kedar the Son of Ishmael, whom his Fa∣ther Abraham as a strange Child, born by his Maid Agar, did thrust out together with his Mother into the Desarts; his words are these, Wo is me, that I sojourn in Mesheck, that I dwell in the Tents of Kedar. In our times these and other Nations are called the Sa∣racens, which have very much encreased under Maho∣met (which by his Mother was an Ishmaelite) and did spread very much; and so they were in David's time a very strong Nation, wherefore he prayeth very earnest∣ly (in his 83 Psalm) that God would punish and slay and disperse them, as Enemies of his Holy Church. But that I may come to our former Intention again, here the Arabians asked us very often again, where their King was at that time, so that our Master had bu∣siness enough to answer them; whereby you may ob∣serve what great Respect and Love they have for their King. But that they might not altogether look upon us as Outlandish Men, nor presently discern us to be Strangers, we did sometimes when there was occasion for it, change our Turbants, and let one end thereof according to their Fashion hang down, which they do to make themselves a Shade against the Heat, that is very cruel in these Countries. But yet if any body, be he who he will, doth enquire after their King, and wants to come before him, to present him with a Suit of Cloaths, &c. or to desire a Pass from him, or if one should go about to hire one of them, to shew him the way to a certain place, or through their Country, (which he may do for a very small price,) he would soon find one or other that would be ready to do it; but among the Turks there is no such Obedi∣ence; for if you should desire any thing of them to do, in the Name of their Sultan, they are not willing

to do it, except it would redound to their great Pro∣fit. Wherefore a Turkish Guide to conduct you would cost you a great deal more than one of them. Be∣sides, they also remember their Master daily, and hard∣ly speak of any thing but of him, his great riches, &c. but with such Pride and Greatness, chiefly when they speak of his powerfulness, and enlarging of his King∣dom, as if some share of these were belonging to them, and that they must be respected for it. In this Navi∣gation through the great Desarts, we two did not spend much, because the Towns were at so great a distance from one another that we could not reach them, to provide our selves daily with Necessaries (as we do in our Country on the Danube and Rhine) or Lodgings. We were necessitated to be contented with some slight Food or other, and make a shift with Curds, Cheese, Fruits, Honey, &c. and to take any of these with some Bread for a good Entertainment. The Honey in these Parts is very good, and of a whitish colour, whereof they take in their Caravans and Navigations, great Leathern Bottles-full along with them; this they bring you in small Cups, and put a little Butter to it, and so you eat it with Biskets. By this Dish I often remembred St. John the Baptist, the fore-runner of our Lord, how he also did eat Honey in the De∣sarts, together with other Food. Besides this when we had a mind to Feast our selves, some ran, as soon as our Master had landed at Night, to fetch some Wood, and others in the mean time made a hole in the Ground on the Shoar, in the nature of a Furnace, to boil our Meat. So every Company dressed accor∣dingly what they had a mind to, or what they had laid up in Store; some boil'd Rice, others ground Corn, &c. And when they had a mind to eat New Bread instead, or for want of Biskets, they made a paste of Flower and Water, and wrought it into broad Cakes about the thickness of a Finger, and put them in a hot place on the ground, heated on purpose by Fire, and covered it with Ashes and Coals, and turn∣ed it several times until it was enough. These Cakes were very savory and good to eat. Some of the

Arabians have in their Tents, Stones or Copper-Plates made on purpose to bake them. On the 4th. Day, being the last of September, about Noon, we came to the end of the Mountains, before which without, on this side, lieth a very strong Citadel, on a high Hill, built three square, by the Inhabitants called Seleby, whereof two Points go downwards towards the River, and the third upward a great way on the Mountain, so that in its situation it is very like unto Baden in Switzer∣land. Although it is demolished, yet it is still very strong in its Walls, that are to be seen at the top and on the sides, chiefly towards the Hills, and the River side, to hinder the Passage both by Water and Land. There are also still standing some Watch-houses with∣out, as you come towards it near the Mountains, which may hold three or four Souldiers: yet it lieth still to this Day in ruins, and so desolated, that nothing but Birds and Beasts inhabit it; whereof a great many ap∣peared on the Rivers side, as Herns, Ducks, that were very large and of a delicate Colour, and others, a∣mong which were some of a white Colour, called Pe∣licans by Aristotle, and Onocrotali by others, which are as big as Swans; the Prophet Zephaniah maketh also mention of them in his second Chapter, when he prognosticated the punishment that was to come to the Ninevites, Assyrians and Moors; there also ap∣peared some quite black, with long Necks; whereof I did see abundance in my Travels into the Land of Pro∣mise, and especially near Acon, among the Rocks and Crags of the Sea; as far as I could discern them at a distance, they seemed to be a kind of a * 1.40 Sea-Eagle, that feed more upon Fish than any thing else. Six Miles lower, and at the other side of the Euphrates, lieth still ano∣ther Fortification which is called Su∣bian Seleby, that is lower Seleby, on a very high Bank, and seeing that we sailed very near it, I could not well discover it. Of these two which way they were besieged and taken; and also of the way of Government, or ruling of the Kings of A∣rabia,

&c. I should have been very glad to have been a little better informed, but the Language wherewith I was not well acquainted, did hinder me. And sup∣pose I should have understood it very well, or enough to have made an enquiry after those Particulars, yet I could not have done it without great Danger, to have been taken for a Spy; for they soon suspect Outlandish Men on every little occasion, which those that Trade in these Parts have often experienced not without great Loss and Danger. Beyond the Mountains in the low Country we saw more tilled Grounds, and Habitations of the Arabians than we had done before, wherefore our Master landed sooner than he used to do, near a Village, to take in Provision for our further Journey, where the People brought Flesh and Indian Melons to us to sell. Here it happened, that about Midnight, one of the Turkish Souldiers went out to ease himself to the River side; and when he was busy about it, a Moor came creeping along to him, and thrust him into the River before he was aware of it, and run a∣way. The Turk finding himself in the Euphrates, fell a crying out for help; I hearing him, standing Sentinel that Night, did not fail him, but made what haste I could, with my Scymeter in my Hand, followed his Voice, and came to the place, although it was very dark, drew him out, and brought him into the Ship, which was so kindly taken by the rest of the Turks, that I got mightily into their Favour, and received many Kindnesses of them all the way until we came to Bagdet, the Garrison which they went to rein∣force.

The first of October when our Voyage went on a∣gain, there came early in the Morning a Post of six Arabians on Horse back to the River side, to enquire of us whither their King was gone, or where we thought they might find him, they had received Let∣ters for him from the Sultan, wherefore they must follow him until they found him. The Master of our Ship told 'em (and so he did to every body that asked him) that we had seen him in Mesopotamia, which Province he called Amanachar, that he was broken up with his Men to

go back into Arabia, where they would find him. After this relation they departed, and we went on our way, and soon saw below a Town to our right at a distance, called Seccard, very well situated on an ascent, belong∣ing to the King of Arabia, wherefore some of the Turks said, that none but Haramiquiber, that is great Thieves lived in it, which they do out of spite to all them, that are subject to any other Master, than their Sultan. This Town we passed by, and went directly towards Deer another Town, whence we were then three Leagues distant, yet they do not accompt their distances by Leagues, for they know little or nothing of it, but rather reckon by Days Journeys, for their Towns are so situated, at such a distance, that they have sometimes to go through divers Wildernesses, several Days, more or less, before they arrive there. Before we came thither, one of the Ships in our Com∣pany did go too much toward one side, toward a Branch of the River, that runs by the Town, (for it divideth it self into several Branches) where it got in∣to the Mud and stuck. Our Master seeing this, land∣ed immediately, and did send his Men to help them. So I got time to look after the strange Plants, and found there about the River many great Tamarisk-Trees, and also a peculiar sort of Willow, which the In∣bitants still call by its ancient Arabian Name Garb. These Trees do not grow high, but spread very much; the Twigs thereof are stronger and not so tough, as to make Bands or Withs as ours will; the Bark is of a pale yellow Colour, and so are the Leaves, which are long and about two Fingers broad, and at the edges round about crenated, so that they are very much dif∣fering from the rest of this kind. I found them to be of a pretty drying and astringent quality. Of their Flowers and Fruit (whereof Avicen maketh mention in his 126 and 686 Chap.) I can say nothing, because I saw none. Hereabout the Turk (that would not stay until we were cleared, but went away before us) did suffer Shipwrack, and so lost a great deal of his Corn, that he intended to carry to Bagdet (called Baldac) to sell it in the great Scarcity, which was oc∣casioned

for want of Rain, for there fell none in the space of two Years and a half. And yet, as they say, if it raineth but twice or thrice a Year, they have enough to supply themselves. After our Men had wrought longer than an hour together with theirs, until they had emptied the Ships, they came to us again to go that Night to Deer. But there being several Rocks before it, which were very dangerous to pass, some of their Pilots, that understood the depths, came out to meet and did help us, so that we got safe there. The Town of Deer, which is not very big, and belongs to the Sultan, is situated on this side of the River, on an ascent, and is pretty well built with Houses (where∣on stood great Numbers of People when we went in∣to it, to see us) but as for the Walls and Ditches, they are but very slight. At our first arrival, we thought we should soon get clear for the Custom with the Armin, and so Ship off again, but he was not in Town, so that we were forced to stay three Days for his coming. In the mean time we got acquaintance with the Inhabitants, which were handsome, lusty and well-set, and white, and more mannerly than the rest; they visited us frequently, and spoke kindly to us, so that we found a vast Difference between those and the former. The Armin also (who was no less civil) we presented at his return, with a great dish fill'd up with Cibebs, and several sorts of Confectures, and laid round about with Soap balls (as is the Fashion in these Countries) but to them that were with him and of his Family, we gave some Sheets of white Paper, which they willingly received, and were so well pleased with it, that some of them (as the Children do in our Country when we give them something that is strange or pleasing to them) smiled at it as often as they looked on it. The Country there about is pretty fer∣tile and plentiful of Corn, Indian Millet, Cotton, &c. and they have also between the Rivers very good Gar∣dens for the Kitchin, with all sorts of Plants and Fruits in them, viz. Colliflowers, Citruls, Pumpions, Cucum∣bers, Anguriens, or Water-Melons, which they call Bathiecae, whereof they have so many, that you may

buy forty great ones for one Asper (whereof three make a Medin) much about the value of our Penny. There were also some Date Trees, Limon and Citron, and other Trees, which I could not distinguish at a distance.

CHAP. V.

Of our Voyage to the Famous Town Ana, in which we passed again through great sandy Wildernesses; for the performance whereof we must provide our selves with Victuals, and be very careful in our Navigation: Some relation of the Inhabitants, of their Cloaths, and other things we did observe and see by the way, and what else did happen un∣to us.

AFter we had paid the Custom to the Armin (who was a great deal more civil than he at Racka) and provided our selves with all Necessaries, we did but half load our Ships, to draw them out of the branch again, into the River, and then we carried the rest to them by Boats and small Ships, for the Water was very low and full of Mud, so that we went from thence on the 4th. Day of October in the Evening, and so staid all Night, a little below Deer.

The next Morning our Navigation proceeded very well till Noon, when we came to a very broad and shallow place of the River, that our Master did not know which way to get through. When he was thus troubled and considering, there appeared on the Height, on the Shoar, some Arabians, and shewed us the Course we must take, but we durst not trust them, for we had

heard before, that they had sunk some great Stones there, and that a Month before they had perswaded a Ship to go that way, which did not discover their Cheat, until their Ship after several hard knocks did split in pieces and sink. The same they would have served others, which, although they did not fol∣low their Counsel, yet they came into such Danger, that they could not deliver themselves out of it in a whole Days-time. We (Thanks be to God) got sooner through than in an Hour, after we had drawn our Ship a little back into the deep Stream, to the great Admiration of the Arabians: But the other, in our Company, did not stick much longer, yet we had more to do to get her off, because she was shorter, with a hollow Bottom, wherefore she was sooner turned, but could not be got out so well as ours which was flat-bottom'd. In the Evening very early we saw at a great distance on the other side in Mesopotamia, a Castle in the Plain, called Sere, which the Arabians (as they say) have many Years ago demolished, which the River Chabu, which is pretty large, runs by, which beginneth not much above the Castle (which one may guess by its Fresh-Water like unto Fountain-Water) and runs a little way below into the River Euphrates. From thence we thought to have reached Errachaby, a Town belonging to the King of Arabia, but being hindred in our Navigation, as is above-mentioned, we landed a little above this before the Night befell us, and went the next Morning early to the before-mentio∣ned Town, which was pretty large, and lay about half a League from the River in a very fruitful Country, where we stayed until the next Day, to sell some Goods there. Wherefore two of ours went into the Town to call out some of their Merchants to trade with them.

After they had spent that whole Day with them, we went off the next Morning early toward Schara, a little Village which lieth on the Right-Hand half a League distant from the River, belonging to the King of Arabia, where we landed to pay the usual Custom. All about the Sides and the River I saw a great many Bushes and Trees. I would fain have been at them

to discern what they were, that I might have viewed them exactly, but I was forced to stay in the Ship and so I missed them. From Schara our Navigation went on for several Days very well, but chiefly through sandy Desarts which were as large as any we had be∣fore passed; for they extended sometimes so far, that we could not see the end of them; and they were so dry, that you could see neither Plough-land nor Mea∣dow, Tree nor Bush, Leaf nor Grass, nor Path to go in; wherefore these may very well be called De∣sarts, which are also called the sandy Seas. First you must expect there great Storms, as well as in the Seas, which cause Waves in the Sand as well as at Sea; then those that go in great Caravans through them, must have their Leader or Pilot (by them called Caliphi) as well as those at Sea, which knows how to direct their way by the Compass, as Pilots do on Ship-board. Then they provide themselves (because the way is very long through them) with Victuals for a long time, as well as those that go by Sea, wherefore they load generally the third Part of their Camels with Provisions, chief∣ly with Water, to refresh themselves, and their Beasts, in the great heat of the Sun, for throughout all the Desarts there is never a Spring to be found, except one should light by chance on a Cistern, which yet are also generally dry, for nothing but the Rain filleth them. The Turkish Emperours have ordered 30000 of these Cisterns to be dug in the Ground in these Desarts (as I was informed when I was at Aleppo) and to be provided with Water, that their Armies when they marched from place to place in those times when they had War with the Kings of Persia or Arabia, &c. might not want for Water, and if one should be empty they might perhaps find some in the others. In these Wildernesses I saw nothing worth speaking of, but on the 9th. of October, some ancient Turrets that stood upon the high Banks on a Point, called Eusy, where, as some say, hath been formerly a Famous Town. There∣about the River taketh so large a Circumference, that we went longer than half a Day, before we could pass it. By the same River below us, we saw on the other

Side of it several Arabians on Horse-back: And no∣thing else remarkable, but as I have told you before, some small Hutts of the Moors, who came to see us often, but chiefly at Night-time, to pilfer something, which they are used to from their Infancy. Wherefore it be∣hoved us to have great Care, and to keep a good Watch, as I did find it the same Night: For when it was come to my Turn to stand Sentinel again, which I commonly did in the hindermost part of the Ship on high, that I might espy the Thieves the sooner if any should come, I laid down by me a good Cud∣gel (as we all used to do every time) so I lay down and wrap'd my self up in a Frize Coat with hanging Sleeves to it, to keep my self from the Frost and Dew, which are very frequent and violent there. After long watch∣ing, I began to be drowsy and fell asleep, a Thief came through the Water to the Ship, where I was laid down very silently, and took hold of one of my Sleeves that hung down, in hopes to draw out the Coat gently, not knowing that I was in it: So I was sensible that Some∣body was there that would steal the Coat, and got up, and seeing the Head of the Rogue, I took hold of my long Cudgel, to have a Blow at him; but he was too nimble for me, swam back and ran away: The rest that lay by me were awakened at this, and did per∣ceive that I had seen Some-body, but did not know the Particulars, so they were very glad that I had frightned away the Thief, and gave me Thanks for my great Care and diligent watching. As the Moors by Night follow their Robbery, so they came by Day∣light often with their Wives to trade with us. Where∣fore our Master sometimes to please some Merchants, did sooner land, who took all sorts of Goods out with them; as Soap-balls, Beads of Chrystal, and yellow Agates, Glass-Rings of several Colours, which they wear on their Hands and Feet; and several other Toys made of Red, Yellow, Green and Blew Glass; and set in Tin Brass or Lead, high Shooes, which are tied with Leathern Straps at the Top, &c. for these Goods they trucked with the Moors for Sheep's Skins, Buck-skins, Cheese-Curds, and several other Things, and sometimes for

Money. These Moors do not differ much in their Form from our Gypsies, only that these are a good deal Browner. They are very nimble in their Actions, but they do not much care to work; they rather spend their time in idle Discourses, or begin to quarrel with one another, with loud and big Words, and a great Clamour, but seldom are so much in earnest as to come to Blows. Their Heads are shaved saving only the Crown, where they let generally a long Lock grow, like unto the Turks, that hangeth down be∣hind. As to their Cloathing they wore Coats, made of Course Stuff, whole before, and without Sleeves; they are pretty long before, and reach to their Knees, such an one I wore on my Journey, striped with White and Black; underneath they have long Shirts, which are cut out about the Necks, and reach down to their Ankles, they are commonly Blew, and have wide Sleeves, which they let fly about, chiefly in their walk∣ing, when they fling their Arms about to shew their Pride. These Shirts they gird up with broad Leathern Girdles so high, that you cannot see the Girdle, but only their bended Dagger that sticks or hangs in them, as we wear our Swords. The Archers put sometimes one of their Arms out of their Shirts, and so leave their Breast bare at the same time, that they may shoot and fight the freer without being hindred; those that are not able to buy Shooes, take instead of them Necks of undressed Skins, and put them about their Feet with the Hair outwards, and so tye or lace them up. The Men wear no Breeches, but the Women do, and they come down to their Ankles: Their Faces are not veiled, as the Turkish Womens, but else they cover themselves with broad Scarfs, which more incline to Blew than to White, and let them (chiefly those that wear nar∣row ones) hang behind in a great knot. When they have a mind to be fine, they put on their precious things (as are Marbles, Amber Beads, Glasses of several Colours, &c.) fixed to Laces and hang them down their Tem∣ples, which come down about a Span long, and fly a∣bout from Face to Neck, so that in bending or moving their Head they often hurt their Face, and do not a

little hinder them in their Actions. Those that are of greater Substance, and have a mind to be richer and finer in their Dress, wear Silver and Gold-Rings in one of their Nostrils (as some do in one of their Ears in our Country) wherein are set Garnets, Turquois, Rubies and Pearls, &c. They also wear Rings about their Legs and Hands, and sometimes a good many together, which in their stepping and working, slip up and down about their Hands and Feet, and so make a great noise. So much I thought convenient to relate of the Inhabitants of these Countries and Desarts, as I have seen and found it.

After we had passed through the great Desarts, and began to come prety near unto Ana, our Master land∣ed early in the Evening in a very pleasant Place which was about a League and a half on this Side of the Town, where we stayed all Night: For the River is very dangerous to navigate because of its swift Cur∣rent, and some Rocks that lie between the Mountains▪ This Place was so pleasant by Reason of its fruitful Trees, viz. Olive-Trees, Orange, Citron, Limon, Pomgranate, and chiefly Date-Trees, that the like I had not seen before in my Travels, and hard by it was a very thick Wood of Date-Trees, whereinto I went with some of our Company, and found so great a Quantity of Fruit that they did not esteem them at all, and a∣mong them we found two new Sorts different from them that use to be brought to us in our Countries, viz. quite Red, and Yellow ones, by Serapio called Hayron, in his 69th Chapter; which although something less than ours, yet are very good, and of a delicate Taste.

The next Morning we recommended the Ship to the Master, and walked (the Ship being pretty well laden) to the Town. By the way we found concer∣ning Fruitfulness so great a Difference, that we could really say, we were come from the barren and deso∣lated Arabia (which hitherto had continued from Dir, nay very near from Aleppo) into the well cultivated and fruitful one. For just in the very Entrance there appeared Fields sown with Cotton, which was as tender and woolly as one could any where find: Then delicate

Fields of Corn which grew very high, and was full ripe, and fit to be cut down: Then Trees that stood round about, full of Fruit, so that we had a very pleasant Walk to the Town. In this way I saw no strange Plants at all, onely in the Corn the Moluchi of the Arabians, whereof I have made mention before, which is esteemed to be the Corchorum Plinii; and also another, which because of its Height is easily seen; this is very like unto the Sesamum, onely that the Stalk is longer and fatter, the Leaves are rougher, and the uppermost ones are cut into three different ones, which is not to be seen in the uppermost Leaves of the Sesamum, the Leaves whereof are more like unto Willow-Leaves both in Length and Colour: Between the Leaves that stand singly about the Stalk one above the other, sprout out stately Flowers, which are Yellow without, and intermixt with Red Veins, and of a purple brown Colour within, and have a long Style or Pointel in the middle thereof; when these are fall'n off, there grow long Pods out of them, about a Finger long and thick, which are hairy without, pointed towards the Top, and have Five Distinctions within, wherein the seeds are con∣tained (which are very like unto the sort of Malva that is called Abutilon) and are placed in good Order one above the other. I did very much enquire after this plant, but they know no other Name for it, but Lubie Endigi, that is Indian Kidney-Beans: But according to my Knowledge, I rather take it to be the Trio∣num, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention in several Places.

The Town Ana is by the Euphrates divided into Two Parts, or rather into Two Towns, whereof the One is not very big, and subject to the Turk, and is very well guarded with old Walls, and so surrounded by the River, that you cannot go into it but by Boats, but the other that lieth on this Side, belongeth to the King of Arabia, is very great, and very ill-provided with Walls and Ditches, so that you may go in and out by Night, as in all other Towns belonging to him. This, and also the whole Province, is called Gimel, and

is fifteen Days Journey distant from Aleppo, and goeth down a great way the River, so that we had a good Hour to go, before we came to the House of our Ma∣ster, which was near the Harbour, where our Ship did lie. The Houses are built with Brick and Stone Walls, and very well done; and we could hardly see one on either side but what had a Garden to it, planted with Dates, Limon, Citron, and Pomgranate Trees, with de∣licate Fruit in it. At the other side on the left in Me∣sopotamia, I saw nothing but some Summer-houses standing about the Hills. By the way before we came to Ana, I observed very well, that some of our Com∣pany (to whom I was of an Outlandish Man recom∣mended) left me, and began to contrive with the Ma∣ster, who was born in that Town, to accuse me by a second Hand, that they might not be seen in it, as a Spy, before the Magistrates, pretending that I observed all Towns and Places accurately, and had a mind to betray them at my Opportunity, which they chiefly did to frighten me, and so to get the sooner some good Booty out of me. In Order whereunto, some of them went to the Sub-Bashaw, and obtained presently of him to send one of his Servants with them, which came to me in the long Street, having some Iron Chains and Fetters in his Hands, which he let hang down upon the Ground, and led me along; so that I presently under∣stood that they had an ill Intention against me, which they intended to execute. So I went along with him, to see what they would do with me; when they came to the Harbour, they gave me leave to go into the Ship, and to stay there until I heard more of them. So they soon aggreed together, and told me, chiefly one of them that was on Horse-back in a long Furr'd Coat, that if I would be at Liberty, I must pay to the Sub-Bashaw 500 Ducats. When I was considering these things, and saw my self also left quite alone, and their Demands so extraordinary unreasonable, and found my self in this great Necessity and Danger, it came into my mind, that there was another Magistrate in the other Town Ana, at the other side of the River, which was a Turkish one, to whom I would make my

Complaint of their unjust and unreasonable Impo∣sition, to see whether I might not find help and as∣sistance of them, wherefore I provided my self with my Pass, and fitted my self so in Cloaths that I might be able to swim, so that if they should Assault me to take hold of me, I might soon make my escape over the River without any opposition or hindering. At length, when they expected my Answer, and the Mo∣ney, I told them my Intention plainly and clearly, which put them into greater Fright and Fear, than they had put me in before. Wherefore they gave over their unjust Demands, and desired of the 500 Ducats, no more but a single one, which they were forc'd to give to the Servant of the Sub-Bashaw, for the Pains he had taken.

CHAP. VI.

Which way we travelled from Ana further to Old Babylon, by some ancient Towns called Hadidt, Juppe, Idt, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated Fields on each side than before.

AFter the designed Storm, that should have be∣fallen me was over, and I by the Power of the Almighty God delivered, as it hath pleased him to do with a great many more, (which would be too long to relate all here) we immediately departed from thence on the 15th. of October. A little below it we found a fruitful and well cultivated Country; and some fine Houses standing here and there, so near to∣gether, that before we passed one, we could see ano∣ther, which had also their Orchards and Kitchin-Gardens, and round about them fine Woods of Date-Trees,

and many others, which I could not discern be∣cause it was too far off; so that we found a great Al∣teration, and our Wilderness (wherein, chiefly at a Distance from the River, we hardly saw a Tree in a whole day) changed at the lower end of the Town in∣to a fertile Soil: Wherefore our Voyage was very pleasant to us, for we had also less danger to fear from the Arabians. But our Master was very much troubled, because the River was often stop'd up at the Sides with great Stones that made the River swell, for there was a great Number of large and high Water-Engines or Wheels, therefore these Stones were laid to lead the Stream to them, to make them work, for it often happen'd that Two of them stood close together, which took up so much of the River, that we had hardly room to pass by them in the middle of the Stream, wherefore he was forced to have great Care, to find the right way where he might pass without Danger. The Reason why these Water-Wheels are so much in Use is, because this River doth not overflow (as the River Nilus) to water the Grounds, neither doth it rain enough here sufficiently to moisten the Seeds and Garden-Plants, that they be not burnt by the great Heat of the Sun, wherefore they must look out for such Means, as will supply this Want. To do this they erect Water-Wheels (whereof Three or Four stand behind one another) in the River, which go Night and Day, and dip up Water out of the River, which is emptied into peculiar Chanals, that are pre∣pared on purpose, to water all the Ground. But if the Places lie not conveniently, or the Shore be too high to erect such Wheels, they make instead of them Bridges and peculiar Engines, that are turned by a Couple of Bullocks, to bring the Water up, with great Leathern Buckets, which are wide at Top and narrow at Bottom. This Land being so fruitful, we soon found, to our great Pleasure, great Quantities of delicate Fruit, sold for a small Matter of Money, and among the rest chiefly Indian Musk-Melons, that were very well tasted.

When we came further we had generally even ground at both Sides, and not a few Fields, the most Part whereof, were sown with Indian-Millet, for they sow more of this than of Wheat or Barley, for the Sand is pretty deep, wherein the Corn would not grow so well. This Millet was just fit to be cut down, and in some Places they had it in already. It shoots up into a high Stalk about Six, Seven, or Eight Cubits high, the Leaves thereof are like unto the Indian-Corn, or Sugar-Reeds, which I took it for at First, and that because the Inhabitants did chaw it as well as the Sugar-Canes, because of the sweet and pleasant Juice (which is more in the upper Part of the Cane, whereas that of the Sugar-Canes is more in the lower) which they draw out of it, untill I saw at length their white hairy Tops sprout out, which are large and not unlike to the Italian-Millet. These are full of whitish Grains, each of which sticks between Two broad flying Leaves, of the Bigness of those of the Orabus, yet somewhat more compressed at the Sides. Hereof they bake very well-tasted Bread and Cakes, and some of them are rowled very thin, and laid together like unto a Letter, so that they are about Four Inches broad, Six long, and Two thick; they are of an Ashen Colour. The Inhabitants call it still at this Day by its ancient Ara∣bian Name Dora, whereof Rhases maketh mention, he that will may read more of it in Authors.

Our Voyage went on very well, wherefore the Mer∣chants began several Pastimes, some did play at a Play called the Eighteenth, and others played at Chess, in which Two Games they were very well versed; others spent their time in Reading and Singing. Among the rest there was a Merchant from Balsara, that sung out of his Alcoran (which was put into Rhymes in the com∣mon Arabick) several times with a loud and delicate Voice; so that I took great Delight in hearing him. Yet they were not so hot in their Gaming or Jesting, that they should therefore forget the Hour of their Prayers, chiefly their Divines that were in Orders, which used to call them out with a loud Voice, at the usual Hour, either in the Ship, or without in the De∣sarts,

if they could have convenient Time and Oppor∣tunity. But among the Persians I found a greater Zeal and Earnestness, than among the Turks or Moors, all which Nation have notwithstanding the same Cere∣monies in their Prayers. For as they have chiefly Five Hours of Praying, whereof Three are in the Day-time; viz. the First about Noon, the Second about Three, and the Third when the Sun begins to set, the two others in the Night, one in the Morning an Hour and half before the Sun riseth, and the Second after Sun set when the Firmament begins to look white and the Stars to appear: So the Persians would not be hindered, by the Darkness of the Night, Danger of the Place, Inconveniency of the Time, to go out, when the o∣thers were asleep, on the Ground in the Island where we were landed, and say their Prayers with such an Earnestness and Devotion, as I have often seen it, that the Tears run out of their Eyes: I must also needs say that they keep closer and stricter to their Laws than almost any other Nation, which forbid them to drink Wine, and command them to live in Poverty, and to watch and pray continually.

The Eighteenth Day of October we came early to Hadidt, a pretty large, yet anciently built Town, belonging to the King of Arabia, which is also di∣vided into two Towns by the River Euphrates, like unto Ana, whereof the greater part lieth on this Side of the River. Here the Master payed for his Ship two Sayet, (one whereof is about Three-Pence in our Country) to the Customers, and so set Sail again, to try whether he could reach that Night to Juppe: And he did oftner than ever before, speak to his Men to pull on (chiefly where the River in its Breadth and Depth was almost like unto the Sea) so that at Night pretty late we arrived at Juppe, a pleasant and well built Town belonging to the Turks, and it is also di∣vided into two Parts, whereof one lieth in the middle of the River on a high Ground, at the Top whereof is a Fortress, so the Town is pretty well defended: The other (which is rather bigger) lieth on the lest in Mesopotamia, wherein are many fine Orchards belong∣ing

to the Houses, full of high Date-Trees, &c. where∣fore the Merchants spent half a Day there to buy Dates, Almonds, and Figs to carry with them into the Inns; the same they did at Idt another great Town of the Turks, on the Right-hand of the Euphrates situate on a high Ground, where we arrived on the 20th of October at Night in very good Time, and gave them instead thereof Soap-balls, Knives, and Paper, &c. After which goods they have often enquired of us; and we have given them sometimes some Sheets of white Paper, which they received with great Joy, and returned us many thanks for them.

After our Merchants had sufficiently stored them∣selves with these Goods, and our Master had pay'd the Duty for his two Ships, he put off about Noon on the 21st of October and went away. About the Evening we saw at this Side of the River a Mill, and also the next Day another, whereby were several old Walls Doors and Arches, &c. Whereby I conjecture that formerly there stood a Town. These two Mills (as I was informed were two Powder-Mills that make Gun-powder for the Turkish Emperour, and send it to him in Caravans, together with other Merchandizes through the Dominions of the King of Arabia, wherefore he must as well as other Merchants, pay Duty (for that Liberty) and Toll or Custom. The Gun-powder is not made from Salt-Peter, as ours is, but out of ano∣ther Juice, which they take from a Tree that is reckon'd to be a kind of Willow; known to the Persians by the Name of Fer, and to the Arabians by Garb, as I have mentioned above. Besides this they take the small Twigs of these Trees together with the Leaves, and burn them to Powder, which they put into Water to separate the Salt from it, and so make Gun-powder thereof, yet this is nothing near so strong as ours. Pliny chiefly testifieth this in his 31st Book and 10th Chapter, where he saith that in former Days they have made Niter of Oak-Trees, (which certainly he hath taken these to be, for they are pretty like Oaks) but that it hath been given over long before now. Which is very probable, chiefly because the Consump∣tion

thereof was not so great, before they found out Guns, as it is now since they have been found out.

Further on the Water-side, on the high Banks, I saw an innumerable many Coloquints grow and hang down, which at a distance I could not well know, un∣til they called them by their ancient Arabick Name Handbel, whereby they still to this Day are known to the Inhabitants. After we had navigated a great way several Days one after another, through even Grounds, and in a good Road, we arrived at length on the 24th. Day of October, at Night, near to Felu∣go or Elugo, a little Village called so, and with it the whole Province.

CHAP. VII.

Of Old Babylon the Metropolis of Chaldee, and its Situation, and how it is still to this Day, after its terrible Desolation to be seen, with the Tower or Turret, and the old ruined Walls, lying in the Dust.

THE Village Elugo lyeth on the place where for∣merly Old Babylon, the Metropolis of Chaldee, did stand; the Harbour lyeth a quarter of a League off, whereinto those use to go, that intend to travel by Land, to the Famous trading City of Bagdet, (which is situated further to the East on the River Tigris, at a Day and a half's distance). At this Harbour is the place where the Old Town of Babylon did stand, but at this time▪ there is not a House to be seen, whereinto we could go with our Goods and stay till our de∣parture. We were also forced to unload our Mer∣chandises into an open Place, as if we had been in the

midst of the Desarts, and to pay Toll under the open Sky, which belongeth to the Turks. This Country is so dry and barren, that it cannot be tilled, and so bare, that I should have doubted very much, whether this Potent and Powerful City (which once was the most Stately and Famous one of the World, situated in the pleasant and fruitful Country of Sinar) did stand there, if I should not have known it by its Situation, and se∣veral ancient and Delicate Antiquities that still are standing hereabout in great Desolation. First by the Old Bridge, which was laid over the Euphrates (which also is called Sud by the Prophet Baruch in his first Chapter) whereof there are some Pieces and Arches still remaining, and to be seen at this very Day a little a∣bove where we landed. These Arches are built of burnt Brick, and so strong, that it is admirable; and that so much the more, because all along the River as we came from Bir, where the River is a great deal smaller, we saw never a Bridge, wherefore I say it is admirable, which way they could build a Bridge here, where the River is at least half a League broad, and very deep besides. Near the Bridge are several heaps of Babylonian Pitch, to pitch Ships withal, which is in some places grown so hard, that you may walk over it, but in others that which hath been lately brought thither is so soft, that you may see every step you make in it. Something farther, just before the Village Elugo is the Hill whereon the Castle did stand in a Plain, whereon you may still see some Ruines of the Fortification, which is quite demolished and uninha∣bited: behind it pretty near to it, did stand the Tower of Babylon, which the Children of Noah (who first in∣habited these Countries after the Deluge) began to build up unto Heaven; this we see still, and it is half a League in Diameter, but it is so mightily ruined, and low, and so full of Vermin that have bored holes through it, that one may not come near it within half a Mile, but only in two Months in the Winter, when they come not out of their holes. Among these In∣sects, there are chiefly some in the Persian Language called Eglo, by the Inhabitants, that are very poyso∣nous;

they are (as others told me) bigger than our Lizards, and have * 1.41 three Heads, and on their Back several Spots of several Colours, which have not only taken Possession of the Tower, but also of the Ca∣stle (which is not very high) and the Spring-well, that is just underneath it, so that they cannot live upon the Hill, nor dare not drink of the Water (which is wholesome for the Lambs.) This is Romance.

From this Tower, at two Leagues distance Eastward, lieth the strong Town Traxt, which was formerly called Apamia, mentioned by Pliny in Book VI. 26 and 27 Chap. between the Tigris and Euphrates, those two great Rivers of Paradise, whereof is made mention in the Second Chapter of Genesis; which two Rivers not far below it meet together, and are there united. The Town Traxt is surrounded with Ditches, and very well defended by two strong Citadels, that lie on each side thereof, so that it is (as it were a Key and Door∣way into the Kingdom of Persia, to which it doth also belong, as others not far from thence, viz, Orthox, Laigen, which lie on the Road toward Media; and also Goa (which lieth a League and a half at the other side of the Tigris,) and Axt (two Leagues further still) in the way to Persia.

The next Day, the 25th. of October, we spent in be∣speaking of Camels and Asses to load our Goods upon, and after we were quite ready, we broke up the Day following early in the Morning with the whole Ca∣ravan, to travel to Bagdet. In the beginning the ways were very rough of the Stones and Ruines that lie still from thence dispersed. But after we were passed the Castle and also the Town of Daniel, the dry Desarts began again, where nothing was to be seen but Thorns, neither Men nor Beasts, neither Caves nor Tents, so that a Man that knoweth the ways never so well, hath enough to do to find them through it, which I did often observe in our Guide or Caliphi, who did seve∣ral

times (because there was neither way nor mark nei∣ther of Men nor Beasts to be found) very much doubt which way to turn himself, and so he did more than once turn sometimes towards one, then toward the other side the whole Caravan. By the way we saw in the Plain many large, ancient, high and stately Buildings, Arches and Turrets standing in the Sand (which is very fine, and lieth close together, as you find it in the Vallies) here and there, whereof many were decayed and lay like Ruines; some to look upon, were pretty entire, very strong, adorned with Artificial Works, so that they were very well worth to have been narrowlier looked into. Thus they stand solitary and desolated, save only the Steeple of Daniel, which is entire, built of black Stones, and is inhabited still un∣to this Day; this is in height and building something like unto our Steeple of the Holy-Cross Church, or of St. Maurice in Augsburg; on which as it stands by it self, you may see all the Ruines of the Old Babylonian Tower, the Castle-Hill, together with the stately Buildings, and the whole Situation of the Old Town very exactly.

After we had travelled for Twelve Hours through desolate places, very hard, so that our Camels and Asses began to be tired under their heavy Burdens, we rested and lodged our selves near to an ascent, we and our Beasts, to refresh our selves, and so to stay there till Night, and to break up again in the middle thereof, that we might come to Bagdet before Sun rising. The mean while, when we were lodged there, I considered and viewed this ascent, and found that there was two behind one another, distinguished by a Ditch, and ex∣tending themselves like unto two parallel Walls a great way about, and that they were open in some Places, where one might go through, like Gates; wherefore I believe, that they were the Wall of the Old Town (whereof Pliny says that they were 200 Foot high, and 50 broad) that went about there, and that the places where they were open, have been anciently the Gates (whereof there were a Hundred Iron ones) of that Town; and this the rather, because I saw in some places under the

Sand (wherewith the two ascents were almost covered) the Old Wall plainly appear. So we found our selves to be just lodged without the Walls of that formerly so Famous Kingly City, which now with its Magnificent and Glorious Buildings, is quite desolated and lieth in the Dust, so that every one that passeth through it, in regard of them, hath great reason to admire with astonishment, when he considers, that this which hath been so Glorious an one; and in which the Greatest Monarchs and Kings that ever were, Nimrod, Belus, and after him King Merodach and his Posterity to Bal∣thasar the last, have had their Seats and Habitations, is now reduced to such a Desolation and Wilderness, that the very Shepherds cannot abide to fix their Tents there to inhabit it. So that here is a most terrible Ex∣ample, to all impious and haughty Tyrants, shewn in Babylon, which may be sure, that if they do not give over in time, and leave their Tyranny, ceasing to per∣secute the Innocents with War, Sword, Prison, and all other cruel and inhumane Plagues (as these did the People of God the Israelites,) that God the Almighty will also come upon them, and for their Transgressions punish them in his Anger, for God is a jealous God, that at long run, will not endure the Pride of Ty∣rants, nor leave unpunished the Potentates that afflict his People; wherefore be sure, he will also in them verifie the Prophecies, which he hath uttered by the Prophet Isaiah in his 12th. Chapter, and Jeremiah in the 51st. against those insolent and haughty Babylo∣nians.

As I passed by, I found some Thorns growing in the Sand, viz. the Acacia, called Agul, whereon (chiefly in Persia) the Manna falls, whereof I have made men∣tion before; above all I found in great Plenty some strange kinds of Cali of Serap., of Coloquints, and when Evening fell in, and the Night did approach, our Mockeries that drove the Asses, made themselves ready again for our Journey, which kept every thing to∣gether in good Order, and were so quick in loading and unloading, that they were ready in less than a quar∣ter of an Hour. By the way I saw again several An∣tiquities,

but the Night falling in I lost them; so we went on a-pace in darkness, so that we did arrive at Bagdet, by some called Baldac, two Hours before Day. In the Morning, which was the 27th. of Octo∣ber, I and one of my Comrades took our Lodging at an Eminent Merchant's House, that belonged to A∣leppo, and was lately come from the Indies; he re∣ceived us kindly, and very readily, and kept us for four Days, when we took a Shop in the great Camp of the Turkish Bashaw, in the other Town, on the other side of the Tigris, which we went into.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the Famous City of Bagdet, called Bal∣dac; of its Situation, strange Plants, great Traffick, and Merchants of several Na∣tions, that live there, together with seve∣ral other things, I saw and did learn at my departing.

THE Town Bagdet, belonging to the Turkish Emperour, is situated on the most Easterly part of his Dominions, on the rapid River Tigris, and the Confines of Persia, in a large Plain, almost like unto Basle on the Rhine, it is divided into Two Parts, which are rather bigger than Basle, but nothing near so pleasant, nor so well built, for the Streets thereof are pretty narrow, and many Houses so miserably built, that some of them are down to the first Story, and o∣thers lie quite in Ruines: The case is the same with the Churches, which for age look black, and are so much decayed, that you shall hardly find a whole one; whereon are still several Old Arabian, or rather Chal∣dean

Inscriptions to be seen, cut out in Stone, by the means whereof many Antiquities of the Town might have been truly explained, but I could not only not read them, but could get no body that could interpet them to me. There are some Buildings that are worth see∣ing, as the Camp of the Turkish Bashaw, and the great Batzar or Exchange beyond the River in the other Town, and the Baths which are not to be com∣pared with those of Aleppo and Tripoli, for they are at the bottom and on the Walls done over with Pitch, which maketh them so black and dark, that even in the Day time, you have but little Light. There being two Towns, one of them which lieth on this side is quite open, so that you may go in and out by Night without any molestation; wherefore it should rather be called a great Village than a Town; but the other that lieth towards Persia on the Confines of Assyria, is very well Fortified with Walls and Ditches, chiefly towards the Tigris, where there are also some Towers, two whereof are within by the Gates that lead towards the Water-side, to guard them, and between them are the old high Walls of the Town, whereon on the top are stately Writings, with Golden Letters, each whereof is about a Foot long, to be seen; the true meaning thereof, I would fain have learned, but for want of Understanding and Interpreters, I could not obtain it, but was forced to go without it. Near unto it there is a Bridge made of Boats that reacheth over the Tigris into the other Town, which in that place is about as broad, as the Rhine is at Strasburg, and because of its rapid Stream so dark and dull, that it is a dismal sight to look upon it, and may easily turn a Man's Head and make him giddy. This River runneth not much below the Town into the Euphrates, and so they run mixt together into the Persian Gulf, by the Town Balsara, which is six Days Journey distant from thence Eastward. These two Towns as is said, at the River Tigris, were many Years agon, built out of the rui∣nated City of Babylon, whereof the one on the other side of the River is accompted to be the Town of Se∣leucia of Babylon, and that on this side, which is more

like unto an open Village, is believed to be the Town Ctesiphonta. Strabo in his Book XV. doth testifie this, when he writes thus of them; That Babylon hath for∣merly been the Metropolis of Assyria, and that after its devastation, the Town of Seleucia, situated upon the Tigris, near which was a great Village, wherein the King of the Parthians did keep his Residence for the Winter. Pliny maketh also mention thereof in his Sixth Book, and in the 26th. and 27th. Chapter, viz. that the two Towns of Seleucia of Babylon, and Ctesi∣phonta were built out of the Ruines of the Old City, and that the River Tigris runs between them. In the Town Seleucia, stands in a large place, the Castle, which is without guarded neither with Walls nor Ditches, nor is quite finished within. Before it lie some Pieces of Ordnance in the Road, which are so daubed with Dirt, that they are almost quite covered. In it dwel∣leth the Turkish Bashaw, who (when he understood that two Strangers were come into his Camp) sent for us, and had us before him by his Men; along with us went freely an Armenian, whom we had known for∣merly at Aleppo, to assist us, and to be our Interpreter, to give the Bashaw a good and sufficient account of us.

When we came into the Room of the Bashaw (which was but very ordinary, yet spread with delicate Tape∣stry and well adorned) and appeared with accustomed Reverences, he asked us (sitting in his Costly yellow-coloured long Gown) by one of his Servants in French, which he did not understand very well, from what places we came, what Merchandises we had brought with us, and whither we intended to go. After we had punctually answered him to each Question, yet he was not satisfied, but bid us to withdraw, and stay until we heard his Answer. We understood his mean∣ing very well, that it was only to scrue a Present out of us, yet we would not understand it, but shewed him our Pass, subscribed both by the Bashaw and the Cadi of Aleppo, to try whether that would give him Content. So he took it and read it over, and looked very diligently upon their Seals, as they use to seal

(after they have dipped it first into Ink) so that all but the Letters is black. When he found them right, and did not know any more to say to us, he let us go, then we made him his Reverence again, and so we went backwards out of his Lodgings, for if you turn your Back to any one (although it be a far meaner Person) they take it as a great uncivility, rudeness, and dispa∣ragement. This Bashaw keeps a great Garrison in the Town of Bagdet, because it lieth on the Confines of Susiana, Media, &c. which are Provinces belonging to the King of Persia, and the Grand Signior hath no∣thing more towards the East of it to command. His greatest Dominions are the Wildernesses of the Desart Arabia, whereof the Turk hath one Part, but the o∣ther, and the bigest belongs to the King of Arabia. After the Bashaw had given us leave to go, we went to our Lodgings again, and bought by the way in the Batzar some Provision to eat, and to boil for Supper, for in these Countries are no Inns to be found, where∣into one may go, and find a Dinner ready prepared for Chance-Customers, as in our Country is done, except one would go into a Cook's Shop, whereof there are a great many in the Batzars; but every one boileth for himself what he hath a mind to, without Doors, be∣fore his Lodgings, where there is a Chimny for that purpose, so that in the Morning, and at Night when it is time to eat, you see every where in the Allies of the Camp several Fires. When we went to eat we were forced (because in these Chambers is neither Ta∣ble, nor Stools, nor Bench) to sit down on the Ground, and also lie upon it all Night, so that our Cloaks were very useful to us, to serve us instead of a Bed, chiefly in the Winter, to keep us warm, yet the Winter is not very severe in those Countries; which you may con∣clude, for that our March-Flowers, Narcissus's, Hy∣acinths, Violets, &c. were here full in Flowers in the Month of December; and that the Farmers went to Plough at that time; wherefore I judge that their Winter is like unto our Spring. When we lived at Bagdet, I found by our Catering, that the Scarcity was still very considerable, and it would have been

more, and have encreased, if the Towns that lie above it on the Euphrates and Tigris, and chiefly Mossel, which formerly went by the Name of Nineve, had not sent them great Supplies, as did also those of Ca∣rahemit, &c. which Supply they have also almost al∣ways, at any other time, occasion for, for their cultiva∣ted Grounds are chiefly in Mesopotamia, where they have almost none at all, so that there groweth not enough to maintain themselves; wherefore the two Rivers are very necessary to them, not only to provide them with Victuals, as Corn, Wine, Fruit, &c. but also to bring to them all sorts of Merchandices, where∣of many Ship-loads are brought in daily. So that in this Town there is a great Deposition of Merchandices (by reason of its commodious Situation) which are brought thither by Sea as well as by Land from several Parts, chiefly from Natolia, Syria, Armenia, Constanti∣nople, Haleppo, Damascus, &c. to carry them further into the Indies, Persia, &c. So it happened that during the time I was there, on the 2d. Day of December, in 74. there arrived 25 Ships with Spice and other pre∣cious Drugs here, which came over Sea from the Indies, by the way of Ormutz, to Balsara, a Town belonging to the Grand Turk, situated on the Frontiers, the fur∣thest that he hath South-Eastwards, within Six Days Journey from hence, where they load their Goods in∣to small Vessels, and so bring them to Bagdet, which Journey, as some say, taketh them up Forty Days. Seeing that the Passage both by Water and Land, be∣longeth both to the King of Arabia and Sophi of Per∣sia (which also have their Towns and Forts on their Confines) which might easily be stopt up by them, yet that notwithstanding all this they may keep good Cor∣respondence with one another, they keep Pigeons (chiefly at Balsara) which in case of necessity might soon be sent back again with Letters to Bagdet. When loaden Ships arrive at Bagdet, the Merchants (chiefly those that bring Spice, to carry through the Desarts into Turky) have their peculiar places in the open Fields without the Town Cresiphon, where each of them fix∣eth his Tents, to put his Spices underneath in Sacks, to

keep them there safe, until they have a mind to break up in whole Caravans; so that at a distance, one would rather believe that Soldiers were lodged in them, than Merchants; and rather look for Arms than Merchants Goods: And so I thought my self, before I came so near that I could smell them.

Some of these Merchants that came with the same Ships, came directly to our Camp, and among the rest a Jeweller, which brought with him several precious Stones, viz. Diamonds, Chalcedonies, which make in∣comparable Hafts to Daggers, Rubies, Topazes, Sap∣phirs, &c. the two first whereof he had procured in Camboya, and most of the rest in the Island of Zeylan, whereof he shew'd us several very fine ones. The Merchants bring these along with them in great Ca∣ravans, and keep them very close and private, that they may not be found out at the Custom-Houses and be taken away from them, which the Bashaws, do con∣stantly endeavour with all their Might and Power. For the Turks do not love that Precious Stones should cost them Money, for they are extraordinarily covetous, wherefore you find but a few among them, but if they can have them without cost, after the aforesaid man∣ner they love them dearly; and keep them in great Esteem. In the room of them other Stones are sent into the Indies again, Corals, Emralds (which are bought best in Aegypt) Saffron, Chermes-berries, and several Sorts of Fruit, as Cibebs, Dates, (which are there so pliable and Soft that you may pack them to∣gether in great lumps as they do Tamarinds) Figs, Almonds and many others which I cannot now remem∣ber, and also several Sorts of Silks; and Turkish Hand∣kerchiefs: But above all, fine Horses, whereof they send Abundance into the Indies by the way of Persia, but more by the way of Ormutz, wherefore the King of Portugal, received yearly a good Sum of Money for Custom, viz. Forty Ducats for each, which the Merchants pay very freely, because that those that im∣port Horses (as I am informed) pay but half Duty for their other Goods at the Custom-Houses, and sell them besides with good Profit. Some of these Horses

are also sent (because of their Beauty and Goodness) into Syria, Natolia, and to us into Europe, where they are sold or presented to Princes, and other great Persons of Quality. They feed there Horses in these Countries chiefly with Barly and Straw, so as it is broke by their Threshing-Waggons, which they hang about their Heads in Sacks, as they do also about Asses, rather than give it them in Man∣gers, as we do. For want of Straw they sometimes litter them with a fine loose Earth, which they after∣ward throw by in heaps to make it clean again to serve another time. When among other Merchants, Christians arrive from our Countries at Ormutz, which happeneth very seldom, all those of them that have been any ways afflicted by Turks, Arabians, or Jews, must appear, before some certain Officers of the King of Portugal, appointed for that purpose, and make their Complaints to them, of what hath happened to them, or what Damage they have suffered or received; and in Case they should omit any thing, they are them∣selves severely punished. If then it appeareth, that one of them hath been cheated of his Money, imme∣diately some Merchants of the same Nation although innocent, and knowing nothing of it, are flung into Prison, where they must remain until they have made Satisfaction to the utmost Farthing, and are besides se∣verely punished, for an Example to others that they may take warning. But if a Christian should be mur∣thered, and they come to know of it, then Three or Four of them, more or less, according to the Manner of the Fact, must suffer and lose their Lives for every Christian. From thence it cometh, when Merchants of many Nations are going into a Ship in order to go to the Indies by the Way of Ormutz (where they must land upon Penalty of Confiscation of all their Goods) that, when first they put off, they look strange∣ly upon one another, and take great notice of, or mind one another much, and say very little or nothing, not making themselves known, fearing that something may be had against them; and this endureth so long, untill they are gone half the way, then they begin to be

acquainted. Further I understood, that the King of Por∣tugal's Governour in the Indies hath already (to make himself strong and the more able for a War) made se∣veral of the chiefest and powerfullest Indians Knights or Noblemen, to the Number of 5000; and hath sent many Jesuits to reform these Countries, to propagate their Religion and to institute there the Spanish Inqui∣sition. The Indians are lank in Body, brown in their Colour, well shaped, and of a very good Understand∣ing: Wherefore Persons of Quality, and Merchants love to buy them, and chuse them for their Servants, being in their Business very faithful, diligent and care∣ful, as I have known many of them. These and many more Nations, as Turks, Moors, Armenians, Curters, Medians, &c. which every one of them have their peculiar Language, are at Bagdet in great Numbers, but chiefly the Persians; so when I was there, there ar∣rived a Caravan of Three Hundred, with Camels and Horses, &c. with an Intention to go to Mecha, to give Mahomet a Visit, which they think, after Hali and Omar (who were his Companions and did live in that City) to be a very great Man. These Persians have a peculiar Language, so much differing, That neither Turks nor Arabians, nor other Oriental Nations can understand them, and so they are forced to make them understand their meaning by Signs or an Interpre∣ter, as well as I and other Strangers. They also have their peculiar Characters. They sit well on Horse-back, and have on long and wide Drawers, which serve them also for Boots, and are very well furnished with Scy∣meters, Bows and Darts: instead of Spurs, they have, as it is the Fashion in those Parts, pointed Irons which are about an Inch and a half long, and are sowed to the hind part of their Shooes. They are also called Red Turks, which I believe is, because they have behind on their Turbants, Red Marks, as Cotton-Ribbands, &c. with Red Brims, whereby they are sooner discerned from other Nations. They may also be distinguished, by their grey woollen Coats, which have commonly Three Plaits behind, and come hardly down to their Knees. They are a strong and valiant People, of a

noble Countenance, and Mind, very Civil, and in their Dealings upright. They are very wary in their Under∣takings, which you may see by this, that before they conclude a Bargain, they take up more time to con∣sider than others to two or three, which I have several times observed. Among other Merchandices they have delicate Tapestry of several colours, and several sorts of Cotton-Work, in which they are great Artists, and well skilled, but as for others, as Gold and Silver working, &c. they understand little, and a great deal less of Gilding, wherefore they take any thing that is glossy for Gold. They love the Christians that are Artists and Ingenious in these sorts of Works, and shew them all Civilities. But as for the Turks, because great and bloody Wars arise often between them, they hate them very much, and call them Hereticks; 1. Because they will not esteem nor receive Hali and Omar (which they denominate Caliphi) as the greatest and highest Prophets or Legates of God, that have, after Mahomet, given more certain and better Laws. Wherefore they esteem them a great deal higher; nay, worship them like Gods. 2. Because that they as circumcised Men, esteem their Women to be unclean, and reckon them to be Members that are not to be saved, and therefore exclude them out of their Churches, so that they may not appear there publickly, which by the Persians ac∣cording to their Laws and Ordinances, after they have spoke some Words after them, are received as blessed Ones, and admitted to come to their Churches. From whence arise between these two Nations great Quarrels and Differences sometimes, but yet they do not fall upon one another, nor make Incursions in time of Peace, so violently on the Frontiers, as they do in Hungary; probably that one may (because Negotiation goeth further into Persia, and bringeth in great Custom to the Grand Signior) trade the safer into these Parts. It is cheap and very good travelling through these Countries into the Indies, and the Customs and Duties are very easy.

Further I understood from others, that here and there in Persia live several Christians, and that most of them are

of the perswasion of Prester-John, whom they call Amma; and which way they are brought to it, I am thus informed, That formerly about Twelve Years a∣gone, it did happen that the King of Persia made a League with Prester-John against the Turks, which came then very hard upon him, and gave him his hands so full, that he was forced to seek for help by Strangers. Now when Prester-John thought it very inconvenient for him to make a League with a King that was not of his Religion, he sent him a Message again, that he could make no League with him, except the chiefest of the Articles were, that he and his Subjects would receive his Religion, then he would not only do him all Friendship that in him lay, but also assist him with all his Might and Power, which at length was agreed up∣on. Whereupon he did send him one of his Patriarchs and some of his Priests, which in process of time had this Effect, that now even at this Day, there are a∣bove twenty Towns in Persia, where the most of the Inhabitants are addicted to the Religion of Prester-John. They have also as I was told, several Books of the Holy Scripture, and chiefly among the rest, some of the Epistles of St. Thomas, which they call Aertisch. And besides that, their Patriarch hath brought it to that pass, that they are no more so zealous in their Superstitions; and are of Opinion that Circumcision is not necessary, and that so much the rather, because their Enemies the Turks and Jews have it. And, for the same rea∣son they do not abhorr the forbidden Beasts, but eat Pork, &c. nor refuse to drink Wine, and that as be∣fore said, because their Adversaries are forbid it by their Law. So that the Christian Faith doth in Persia en∣crease daily more and more, and they begin to be Christened with Fire, according to their Fashion, and in the Name of God the Father, Son and Holy Ghost, whom they notwithstanding (according to their Opi∣nion) rather believe to be a Creature, than the Third Person of the Trinity, and that he doth only proceed from the Father and not from the Son. But that those that are Christians may be discerned, they wear a blue Cross on the inside of their left Leg a little above the

Knee. They also administer the Sacrament of the Holy Supper or Communion, and give it as well to the Young as to the Old ones in both kinds; but before they go to it, they must have their Feet washed, where∣fore there are little Rivolets led through the Churches, where they sit down, and some of the chiefest of the Town come to them and wash their Feet, and when that is done they give unto one another a Kiss of Love; then they read the Words of Christ's Institution, and so go to receive it; they do not come to Confession before: And they endure no Images in their Chur∣ches, but instead of them they make use of Harps, Pipes and other Instruments, wherewith they make Musick, but chiefly at the King's Court, at Samarcand (where his best Musicians are) which Town, as they say, was built by Sem the Son of Noah, and called after his Name. What else is to be said concerning the Points of their Religion, shall be hereafter mentioned in the Chapter of the Abissines.

Further I was informed at my return, that after the Decease of Gamach the King of Persia, that had three Sons and one Daughter (who was soon married to one of the chiefest of the Council at Court) whereof the Eldest called Alschi was beheaded, because he did endeavour to take away his Father's Crown, the other two are still in being; the youngest of them Balthasar liveth in Parsid, a peculiar Province and Town in Persia, which lieth on the Borders of the Indies; and the middlemost, called Ismael, was lately after his Father's Decease, elected King, almost at the same time, when the now reigning Turkish Emperour Amura∣thes came to the Crown. This is still young, and of a tall and slim Body, but very manly, and full of Cou∣rage, and well skill'd in all Warlike Exercises, so that he dare before any of his Courtiers ride wild and unbroken Horses (by them called Aecaik) which are not easi∣ly mastered. They are brought to him a great way off out of the Eastern Parts; they are as I am informed of an Ashen colour, only some have white Legs; in these and other Exercises he hath shown his Manliness from his Infancy. But when he did encrease in Age

and in Strength, the Anger and Displeasure he bore a∣gainst the Turks did increase also, and to that Degree that he resolved, during his Father's Life, to be re∣veng'd of them, for the wrong they had done to his Ancestors. Wherefore, a little while agone he brought together a great many Men in the frontier Places, to surprize the Town of Bagdet unawares, being one of the Chiefest, that formerly had belonged to his Ancestors, together with the whole Country, wherein the new Kings of Persia when they first come to the Government are used to be crowned. When he was thus prepared for the Onset, and nothing was wanting, some Tray∣tors ran away from his Troops and acquainted the Bashaw of Bagdet with his Design, so the Bashaw was forced to arm himself with all Speed as well as he could, that he might be able to oppose him in his De∣signs. But when the King's Son would have put his Intention into Execution, the Bashaw fell upon him unawares with such a Number and Strength, that he could not only attempt nothing but was beaten, and he himself taken Prisoner. Besides this the Grand Turk would have had him to be beheaded, if his Father had not with great earnestness taken his part, and given him for his Ransom the Town Orbs in Mesopotamia. Af∣ter this the old King had enough to do, to keep his Son in safe Custody, that he might not begin new Alarms and Wars against the Turks.

Before I began my Voyage in March, in the Year 74; certain News came to Aleppo that 25000 Turks were killed on the Confines of Persia and Arabia; but in what Place this Battel was fought, and which way it was done, I could not learn (for if they suffer any Damage they always keep it very close and secret) nor any ways hear: Wherefore the Turks at that time were a great deal harder towards the Christians, so that many suffered for their Misfortunes Sake: But if they had obtained the Victory (as well as not) they would not have been so silent, but would have spread it a∣broad, and have related it to others, that did not ask them, with high and big Words. So great an Opinion have the Turks of themselves, that they really believe,

there is no other Nation, that can conquer the World so as they, although they are not to be compared with the Persians, neither for Strength, Manliness, nor Shape; so therefore they could effect but very little against others, if it were not for their great Number, where∣with they over-power them. And to speak only of the Inhabitants of this Town, there are so many sick and lame People in it, that you would admire to see so many lame and limping ones in the Streets; yet the King of Persia cannot hold out the War at length, nor keep a War at a great Distance, for his Revenue is not so great as to make sufficient Provision for his Offi∣cers and Souldiers, &c. to pay them as well in time of Peace as of War: For his Subjects are freed from all Taxes and Impositions, according to their ancient Pri∣vileges and Customs. They never arm themselves for a Defence, but when they are called together by their King, to defend and protect their Country, House or Land, Wife and Children, against the Assault of an Enemy.

When I was thus enquiring from one or other, and en∣deavouring to inform my self and learn whether it were more commodious for us two, to go by Water to Or∣mutz, or by Land through Persia into the Indies, and we thought of nothing else but to begin our Voyage daily to go further; I was call'd on a sudden by a Let∣ter to come away for Aleppo immediately, which trou∣bled me very much, and that the more when I consi∣dered, that I was passed the Wilderness and come into the fruitful Eastern Countries, which would have been very well worth seeing. So after I had considered a while, I agreed with my Comerade, that he should go on with the Voyage in hand, and that I (because besides the Letter, I had others no smaller Hinde∣rances) would go back again. So I fitted him out for his Voyage with all Necessaries, so that two Days after he went with other Merchants into the Ship for Bal∣sara. Not long after I had of him, a very mournful Message or Account that the Ship (wherein he went from Balsara to Ormutz) was perished in a great Storm, near the Island Baccharis in the Persian Sea (where

they find good store of Oriental Pearls) and that he and several other Merchants, and rich Merchants Sons from Aleppo were drowned. At the same time I might have returned back again with a great Caravan to A∣leppo, but because they took the straightest way through great and sandy Desarts, which lasted for Fifty Days Journeys or thereabout, where we had but two pla∣ces to pay Custom in, where we could buy Provision, as Water and other Necessaries, I resolved within my self to go by more Fruitful Places, and Famous Towns (although I went about) where I might see and learn something more; so I did stay in the great Camp longer until I met with some Companions. In the mean time, while I stayed there, I made my self ac∣quainted with an eminent Merchant, that lived in A∣leppo, and had been several times in the Indies; who told me, that the Jesuits had begun to set up a very severe Inquisition in the Indies, chiefly in God, where they observed diligently, those that did not take of their Hats to the Images (which were set up in seve∣ral Streets of the Town) that they might put them into Prison, which he did very much dislike, believing it to be very great Idolatry.

After he had said this, he began to talk further to me concerning Religion, and chiefly of the Articles of our Christian Faith; and made me immediately (when he began to be sensible that I was of the same) so fine a Confession of his Christian Faith, so plainly and with such Grounds of Scripture, that I was astonished, for I could never have believed, I could have met with the Fellow of him in these Countries. So he began to have a great Love for me, and desired me to go along with him, and to stay with him in his House, until I had an Opportunity to go further, or that I might make him a Companion in his Voyage into the Indies, that during those Travels, he would shew me all Kind∣nesses he could; nay, be as careful of me, as if I were his own Son. And after he understood that I was a Physician, he proferred of his own accord to recom∣mend me to the Bashaw, who was then sick, and his very good Friend, to be his Physician. But I having

understood before, that others that had done the same, had been but very ill rewarded for their Pains and Care they had taken, and chiefly by those they did Cure; I would not undertake it, fearing I should have the same measure, and instead of a Reward have my Li∣berty taken away from me, wherefore I thanked him for his Kindness. Had it not been for this, I should have accepted of it, notwithstanding that they have no Apothecaries Shops that are any thing provided, but I must have bought the Ingredients from one Shop∣keeper or other, and so collected them from several places, for I could hardly find any thing by them, sa∣ving some strange sort of Turpentine Nuts, whereof they have abundance, and they are as good, as Pistachia's, wherefore the Inhabitants keep them by them, and eat them as we eat small Nuts in our Country. I have eaten several of them, and found them of a saltish taste and of a drying quality. These are called by the Ara∣bians, Botn, and by the Persians, Terbaick. I have chiefly seen two kinds of them, the greater and the less, and so the Arabians distinguish them into Botn∣quibir and Sougier. The bigger is in shape pretty like unto the Pistach Nut, only it is a little rounder and so shorter; the lesser is with its hard shell of the big∣ness of a Pea, and are shaped like unto an Hart, or the Dora, that is, the Indian-Hart. A great many of them grow in Agemia, Persia, Mesopotamia and Arme∣nia, &c. and grow together in clusters like Grapes as the Pistachies do, or rather the Berries of our Turpen∣tine-Trees, for which they ought to be taken; chiefly, because the Trees wherein they grow, are in their long Leaves pretty like unto the Turpentine-Tree, whereby they are easily distinguished from the Pistachia-Tree, which hath roundish ones. This being so, I take the little one for the Bell, and the great one for the Fael of Serapio, Avicen and Rhases, which (as Authors say) grow chiefly in the Indies: And this the rather, because Authors attribute the same Virtue and Operation to them. So may according to this, chiefly the great Nuts Fael, be taken for the Fruit of the Indian Tur∣pentine-Tree, whereof Theophrastus in his Fourth Book

and Chapter Five, maketh mention, all which would be too tedious to be related here at large. Besides these Nuts, the before-mentioned Authors (chiefly Serapio in his 251st. Chapter) makes still mention of another sort of Fruit, called by him Sel, and by Avicen, Scel, which are not in hard shells, but as I saw them, quite bare, of the bigness of a Pistachia-Nut, and of the co∣lour of the Kernel of our Wall-nut; they have a pret∣ty bitterish taste, and sensibly Sharp. I did find none of them in these Parts by the Shop-keepers, but had it only after that in the Monastery of the Minorites in Jerusalem, of one of their Order, who told me also that they did grow in these Countries. Of Coloquints, or white gourd Apples, still known to the People by the old Name Handhal, there grow so many hereabout, that they send them to Aleppo, and from thence into our Countries; and also the delicate round Cyperus Root, by the Inhabitants called Soëdt, whereof one may find great quantities growing in mossy and wet Grounds. I did also find by the Shop-keepers, the white Seed of Machaleb, which are in hard shells, which are long and pointed, and covered without with a tender skin, like unto the Pistachia-Nut. A great quantity of them are carried from thence into Syria, and used to perfume Soap-Balls. The Trees whereon they grow I did not see, yet, as I am informed, they grow here∣about, but chiefly on the Mountains that are by the way to Persia. They are still to this Day by the Inha∣bitants, as by Serapio, called Nahandt. But although there are several sorts of them, yet they all boil them (after they have been steep'd for some hours in Water, to get off the thin shells, as we do with Almonds) in Milk or Wine into a Pap, and put Sugar or Honey to it, chiefly to the white ones to take away their bitter∣ness. I found farther a strange Gum in great pieces, somewhat like unto Frankincense, or Ammoniacum, which the Inhabitants chew all Day long instead of Mastich, and they attribute the same Virtues to it. Wherefore great quantities thereof are brought thither (chiefly from Persia) which they call Taxa, as I am informed from the Tree Tax, which are very like un∣to

Cypresses in shew and bigness, only their Roots are not so long, wherefore they are the easier over-turned by the Wind. According to this, I remember of the Trees Thuja, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention in Book V. Chap. 5. and of Thya of Pliny. I also saw without the Batzers or Exchanges, very high and big Caper-Trees; and here and there in the Fields a pecu∣liar sort of Red-grass, like unto that of Babylon, ac∣cording to the description of Dioscorides, and hath still retained his ancient Arabian Name Negil among the Inhabitants. This hath long fibrous and yellowish Roots, with many Joynts, and puts out by them year∣ly several Buds, which grow into hard Leaves, which are long and pointed, and at each side very sharp and cutting, like unto them of the Red-grass; between them come out small Stalks or Holms, each whereof hath a peculiar Ear at the top coming out of its Grass-sheath, which is long, thin, and its Seeds grow in two rows, between small Leaves, like unto the wild Galen∣gal. This doth not only grow hereabout, but also in several other Places and Provinces, where the Ground is sandy, as Susiana, Persia, &c. in great quantity, and because it is by reason of its sharpness and cutting, very pernicious to Beasts, as to Bullocks, Horses, &c. so that they die of it, therefore they have or keep the fewer of them, but instead thereof they keep Buffles (which can feed upon it easier than other Beasts) to eat this Grass, which maketh the Buffle very cheap in these Countries, for I have seen one buy three of them for eight Ducats (which is in our Money about 48 Shil∣lings) that was bigger than an Hungarian Bullock. Thus much I had to relate of Bagdet, its Situation, Trade, and strange Plants, so much as I could find and see at that improper time.

Being that I expected daily Company to go with me to Aleppo again, by the way of several Towns, and not straight through the sandy Wildernesses, a Per∣sian that I got acquainted withal in the mean while did inform me, that the Sophi King of Persia, had se∣veral Unicorns at Samarcand, which he kept there; and also in two Islands Alc and Tylos, which lay from

Samarcand nine Days Journey, further towards the East, near Spaam, some Griffins (by them called Ale∣ra) which were sent him out of Africa from Prester-John. They are a great deal bigger and higher, have a red coloured Head, a bearded Bill, and a Neck over-grown with Feathers, a thick Body, black Wings like unto an Eagle, and a long Tail like a Lion, and Feet like a Dragon, they are very eager for Flesh; while they are yet young, the King taketh them along with him, and goeth often thither for Sport and Pleasures sake; but as they grow up and strong, he hath them chain∣ed about their Necks very strongly. I did believe this the sooner * 1.42, because he could also tell me what Trees and Fruit grow there, and chiefly those whereof Theophrastus maketh mention, and out of him Pliny. He also gave me an Account besides these of others that grow out of Persia in several places, as of the Tree Palla, which Theophra∣stus and Pliny mention, which the Wise men did eat in the Eastern Countries, and of the Musa of the Arabians, where∣of the former bear delicate sweet-tasted, and very wholesome Fruit, by them called Wac, which are round, reddish, and as big as the Indian Melons. But whether this be the noble Fruit Man∣gas, (whereof Clusius maketh mention in his History of Indian Plants, which for Goodness sake is carried over Sea into Persia) I leave to the learned to decide. But the Musa (which is as aforesaid, also common in Syria) beareth a great deal smaller Fruit, which is smooth, yellowish, and bended, almost like unto Ci∣truls in shape. These are also of a sweetish taste, and therefore the pleasanter to eat; but are very unwhole∣some, so that Alexander the Great, was forced to for∣bid his Souldiers to eat of them. The same Persian,

did also inform me of the Poysonous Fruit Persea, which is still known to them by the Name of Sepha▪ which they esteem very little; and also the Peaches (called Het) which are not so poysonous (as some say) as the above-mentioned; for they esteem the Kernels thereof to be good, wholesome Physick. But yet that they are not esteemed by them, the chief Reason is, that they perswade themselves, that Nimrod (who was a great Magician or Necromancer) poysoned them by his Black-Art, and that since that time, they could not be eaten; wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since: This I thought convenient to mention, rather for the sake of those, that have a mind to tra∣vel, that if one or more of them should go into these Countries, they might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things.

CHAP. IX.

Which way I came in my return from Bag∣det through Assyria, the Confines of Per∣sia, and the Province of the Curters, to the Town Carcuch, Capril, &c. and at length to the River Tigris, to Mossel, that Famous Town which was formerly called Nineve.

WHen hindered in my Travels, for several weighty Reasons, I was forced to go back again; I looked up my Goods, as I was advised by my good Friend, the Christian, (whereof I made men∣tion here before) and fitted my self for my Journey. I got for my Companions three Jews, one whereof came down the Euphrates with me, the others came

from Ormutz, (for I could get no others) to travel with me to Aleppo. We set out on the 16th of De∣cember of the 74th. Year, for Carcuch distant Six Days Journey, in the Confines of Media, on the other side of the River Tigris, which is still called by them in their Language Hidekel. By the way we first saw some well-tilled Fields, and above us on the River Tigris some Villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a Country that had plenty of Corn, Must and Honey, &c. as it was commended by the the Arch-koob bearer of the King of Assyria, and com∣pared even with the Land of Promise, but the further we went, the greater grew the Wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all Night in the Fields.

The next Morning there appeared a great way off more little Villages belonging to the King of Persia: But we went on through the Desarts (and my Fellow Travellers told me that they extend themselves to Persia and Media) where we lost our way, and came in the Evening into a Bog which hindered us so much, that I (because their Sabbath began, whereon according to their Laws they must not travel) was forced to stay there, with them, all Night long in it, and also the next Day, in great Showers of Rain, not without great Inconveniency and Trouble. During our staying there I look'd about me for some Plants; but found none because they did but first begin to sprout, but in the moist Places some wild Galengal with great round Roots by the Inhabitants called Soedt, and by both La∣tines and Grecians, Cyperus.

The 19th Day, after we were, not without trouble, got out of the Mire, our way extended its self still further through desolate Places and Desarts. I thought of Julian that impious Roman Emperour, and of his Army, which when it went against the Persians, and was very numerous, over the River Tigris near to Ctesiphon, he was by an Ancient Persian that was a Pri∣soner, decoyed into these Desarts, where he was bea∣ten and routed by the Persians. In this great Fight when the Emperour himself was mortally wounded, he took up (as Nicephorus and Eusebius say) a hand∣full

of Blood and flung into the Air, yielded the Vi∣ctory and said, Then Galilean (so he called Christ in whom he at first believed, and afterwards denied and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquered me. After we had lived for several Days very hardly in the De∣sarts, and spent our time in Misery, we came on the 20th by Scherb a Village, over an Ascent, into ano∣ther more fruitful and well tilled Country, situated on the Confines of Persia, and for the most part inha∣bited by them, which we could conjecture by the com∣mon Language. Now though travelling through the Confines, uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet (I thank God) we met with none, so that we without any Stop or Hinderance, reached that Night, the 21st. of December, to Schilb, a curious Village, where we rested all Night and refreshed our selves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful Valleys, but I found nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of plowing time) that was worthy to be mentioned, for the Plants did but just begin to sprout; we had by the way several Villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy Provision. The Three and Twentieth at Night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred Eggs for Two pence.

The next Day we got up early again, and saw be∣fore us the high Mountain Tauri all covered with Snow (which extendeth its self a great way from North and West to the Eastward) at a great Distance. We went on apace, and advanced to Tauk early in good time, and before their Sabbath began again. This Town is not very strong and lieth on a Plain. We went into a Camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when it began to grow dark, they de∣sired of me to light a Candle. I remembred then imme∣diately, that they could not do it themselves▪ being for∣bid by Law, as you may find in the 35th Chapter of Exodus, where you may see that they must kindle no Fire in any of their Habitations, wherefore they fur∣nish themselves the Day before with all sorts of Pro∣visions and Necessaries, that they may not need to do any Labour on the Sabbath, and yet may not want.

When these Jews say their Prayers, they use the same Ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the Ea∣stern Parts do: For first they lift up their Hands, then they bow down forwards with their whole Body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the Ground. These Jews bragg'd continually of their Patriarchs, and made mention of the Laws; but of the Ten Commandments they knew nothing, wherefore I took an Occasion to repeat them before them in the Portugal Language (which is very much spoke in the Indies) as well as I could, and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But when I began to speak of Christ and his Office, they bursted out into such Blas∣phemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my Tongue.

Not far off from Tauk, we saw a very strong Ca∣stle, near unto a Wood, that is guarded by a Turkish Garrison: This is situated in the Province of the Cur∣ters, which beginneth there, and lieth between Me∣dia and Mesopotamia all along the River Tigris and reacheth to Armenia. These Curters, which are almost all Nestorians, speak a peculiar Language, which was unknown to my Fellow Travellers, wherefore they could not speak to them in the Persian nor Turkish Language, which is spoke all along from Bagdet through Assyria (in the Confines of two potent Monarchs) to that place. We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both Languages, to be our Interpre∣ters through the Country of the Curters. But whe∣ther this Language did run upon that of their Neigh∣bours the Medians or no, I could not certainly learn; but yet I was informed that the Parthians, Medes and Persians, as peculiar Nations, had their peculiar Languages, as Histories tell us, and we may also per∣fectly see in the Acts of the Apostles the 2d Chapter and the 8th Verse, where it is thus written: And how hear we every Man in our own Tongue, wherein we were born? Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites and the Dwellers in Mesopotamia, &c. all which Peo∣ple almost are Subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of Persia. The before mentioned Curters were formerly

called Carduchi, and afterwards also Cardueni (as chief∣ly Xenophon testifieth) have had their peculiar Policy and Government. But after many Changes and Wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the Do∣minion of the Turkish Emperour, to whom they are still subject to this Day, and he hath every where his Garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is further to be said of them, chiefly concerning their Religion, shall be hereafter mentioned, when I shall give you an account among other Christians, of those that live in the Temple of Mount Calvaria in Jerusalem.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my Companions, was over, we went on again, and came the 26th. of De∣cember to Carcuck, a glorious fine City lying in a Plain, in a very fertile Country; at four Miles distance, is ano∣ther that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travel∣led, my Companions having Business in both of them, and so we spent two Days in them, before we were ready to go on again.

The 29th. we travelled through large and dry Heaths, and came at Night to some Tents, which were made of Hair or Hair-cloth, wrought out of Goats and Asses Hair, and fixed in such an Order, that they made Streets and Allies like unto a Market-Town. In one of these we went to lodge with these poor People (that are white Moors, and like unto the Gypsuns in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long. But whether these People are subject to the Turkish Emperour, or to the King of Persia, or any other, I could not find out by their Cloths, because they all wear the same hereabout, nor could I discern any thing by their Language. To us came a little after some more Travellers, so that we had hardly room to lie down in. These People were very diligent and busy to get us some Meat and Drink, for the Husband went soon out of Doors to gather dry Boughs and Stalks of Herbs (which I could not at that time discern what they were) and brought them to us to boil or dress some Meat with them. The Woman was not idle neither, but brought us Milk and Eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also some Dough for Cakes (which were about a Finger

thick, and about the bigness of a Trencher, as is usual to do in the Wildernesses, and sometimes in Towns also) she laid them on hot Stones, and kept them a turning, and at length she flung the Ashes and Embers over them, and so baked them thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of baking Cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so we find in Scripture mention made of Bread baked a∣mong the Ashes; the Romans called it, Panes Subcineri∣tios; and so we read in Genesis the 18th. Chapter, of Cakes made upon the Hearth, which Sarah made in haste when the three Men came to see Abraham.

The 30th. we went from thence, and about Noon we came to a Town called Presta, which is chiefly to∣wards the River whereon it lieth, very well fortified, but what the Inhabitants call that River, I do not re∣member, but according to its Situation it must be that which Ptolomy calleth Gorgus, which runs below into the Tiger. In this place they make Floats, which al∣though they are not very big, nor have much Wood in them, yet they have abundance of Bucks and Goats Skins blown up, hung or fixt underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may load the more upon them, and also because the River is rapid, that they may have the less fear or danger. On these Floats they carry several sorts of Merchandices, but chiefly Fruit, viz. Figs, Almonds, Cibebs, Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, &c. a great part whereof goeth further into the Indies.

The last Day of December we travelled on, and came through well tilled Fields about Night into the Town Harpel, which is pretty large, but very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with Walls, so that it might easily be taken without any great Strength or Loss; there we rested again the next Day being the Sabbath (and on the same Day fell New-Years-Day.) In the mean time I understood that the Turkish Sangiack did a few Days ago condemn and put to execution eight great Malefactors, which made it their Business to Rob and to commit Murder up and down on the High-way, (for there are a great many of these Rogues in this Province)

chiefly on the borders of Armenia, which are very Moun∣tainous, which maketh travelling very dangerous. The Relations and Friends of these Murderers and Robbers did take this very ill, that the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good In∣telligence of this their Intention, wherefore he went away incognito for Constantinople, to complain to the Turkish Emperour of this their unjust Proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his escape, and found that he wanted Mo∣ney (which is very seldom) he took up from an Arme∣nian Merchant (that was very rich, and was arrived there to buy several Merchandices, chiefly Gauls, where∣of grow many in these Parts) 300 Duckets, which put the Merchant into great danger: for when these rebelli∣ous People came to understand it, they took it very ill of him, and threatned him very much, so that he was forced to stay some Days longer for more Com∣pany, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the 5th. of January in a very handsome Number, for the Merchant alone had about Fifty Camels and Asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry to Carahemit (where he lived) and to send from thence to Aleppo, where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our Country. So we travelled all Day long and also half the Night, without eating or drinking, very fast, and began to rest about Midnight. After we had for the remaining part of the Night hardly refresh∣ed our Beasts and our selves with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before Day-light, to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and pleasant Vallies, we came betimes to ano∣ther River by Ptolomy called Caprus, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so that we had much to do to get through, which I found not

without a great detriment to my Plants, which I car∣ried on Horse-back before me.

Soon after Noon a great way off before us, appeared a great Market-Town, Carcuschey, where we arrived by Night, and fixed our Camp without and pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by Armenians, which we could presently find by the alteration of the Lan∣guage and their Habit. They received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had staid with them till Night, and refreshed our selves and our Beasts, we broke up again immediately and travelled all Night, which was so dark, that we heard several Caravans that met us, but we could not see them, much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break of Day we came to another much larger Ri∣ver, by the Inhabitants called Kling (if I do not mis∣take) and by Ptolomy, Licus, which hindered us very much in our Day's Journey; for the River being very broad, at least a long Mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right Ford, and not without great Dan∣ger, which the Curters knew very well, so that we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our Company that had often forded that River formerly, we ventured it, went in, and got over (thanks be to God) very safe, only one Ass which went over below us, where the Stream went stronger, was drowned, so that we arrived very early on the 7th. of January to the Tigris again, and went into the Fa∣mous City Mossel, that lieth on this side of the River, over a Bridge made of Boats. This is situated in the Country of the Curters, and so we were forced still to keep our Interpreter. It belongeth to the Turkish Em∣perour, as all the rest hereabout. There are some very good Buildings and Streets in it, and it is pretty large; but very ill provided with Walls and Ditches, as I did observe from the top of our Camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw just without the Town a little Hill, that was almost quite dug through, and in∣habited by poor People, where I saw them several times creep in and out as Pismires do in Ant-hills. In this place and thereabout, stood formerly the Potent Town

of Nineve (built by Ashur) which was the Metropolis of Assyria, under the Monarch of the first Monarchy, to the time of Sennacherib and his Sons, and was about three Days Journey in length. So we read that the Pro∣phet Jonas, when at the Command of God, he preached Repentance to them, did go into it one Day's Journey, which the People did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their Lives, but they did not long remain peni∣tent, but turned to their former Iniquity again, where∣fore their Destruction and Ruine, was prognosticated to them by the Prophets Nahum and Zephaniah, and also by the pious Tobias, that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was it re∣built again afterwards, and did suffer very much up∣on changes of Governments, until at length Tamerlan came and took it by Storm, burnt it, and reduced it into Ashes to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew Beans and Colocasia, &c. So that at this time there is nothing of any Antiquities to be seen as in Old Babylon, save only the Fort that lieth upon the Hill, and some few Villages, which as the Inhabitants say, did also belong to it in former Days. This Town lieth on the Confines of Armenia, in a large Plain, where they sow the greatest part of their Corn, on the other side of the River; for on this side in Mesopota∣mia, it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle of the Desarts of Arabia. Yet there is a very large Deposition of Merchandices, because of the River, wherefore several Goods and Fruits, are brought thither from the adjacent Countries, both by Land and Water, to Ship them for Bagdet. Among the rest I saw abundance of small and great Turpen∣tine-Nuts, by the Inhabitants called (as above-said) Bont-quiber and Sougier; and also another sort of Man∣na as big as a double Fist, which is very common here, and is brought from Armenia, as they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer, and not so sweet as that of Calabria, yet very good and pleasant to eat. Within it are several red Grains, so small that one taketh no notice of them when one eats it. It looseneth the Body very well, but not so much

as ours, wherefore the Inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the Morning, as the Country-men on the Mountains of Algaw eat Cheese. But whether the Arabians make mention thereof, if it be not the Man∣na Alhagiezi, whereof Avicen in his Second Book the Second Treatise, and the 758th. Chapter maketh men∣tion, I know not neither what it is to be reputed. The Town Mossel is as above-said, for the greatest part inhabited by Nestorians, which pretend to be Chri∣stians, but in reality they are worse than any other Na∣tions whatsoever, for they do almost nothing else, but rob on the High-ways, and fall upon Travellers and kill them: Therefore being that the Roads chiefly to Zibin (to which we had Five Days Journey, and for the most part through sandy Wildernesses) are very dangerous, we staid some Days longer expecting more Company that we might go the surer.

CHAP. X.

Which way we went through Mesopotamia by the way of Zibin, and Orpha, to Bir, not without a great deal of danger; and after∣wards how we passed the great River the Euphrates, and came at last into Syria, by Nisib, to the Famous Town of Aleppo.

AFter our Journey had been deferred for four Days, we broke up on the 11th. of January several Hun∣dred strong, and went on for the whole Day with∣out eating, with all speed until the Sun set at Night, when we encamped on an ascent near a small Village, to keep our Beasts and Goods safe, and to refresh our selves and them. We watched all Night long, and went continually three and three together, round about our Camp by turns.

The next Day we proceeded on again in our Jour∣ney with all speed, rather for a good Fountain or Spring's sake, (as they do in these Countries, in the vast Desarts) than to reach a good Inn, where we ar∣rived late at Night, and encamped near it, to stay all Night to rest. A little after when we were at Sup∣per, some of the Curters came to us into our Camp, spoke to us kindly, and asked us whether we did want any thing that they could help us to, but we soon perceived them to be Spies, that were sent by their Companions, to see what Strength we were of. But when they perceived that we were not pleased with them, they did not stay but went away, and we com∣posed our selves to rest, but kept a good Guard as we had done the Night before. About Midnight when we were in our first Sleep, our Watch-men perceived a great Number of the Curters to approach, wherefore they awaked us with a great shouting to alarm us the soon∣er, and to bring us into good Order, and to frighten our Enemies and to drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haste they could up to us, and that so near, that we could see them, although it was dark, before our Camp, by their Heads. But when they found us in a good Order and Condition to oppose them, and did hear that our Gun∣ners and Archers (which were ready to let fly at them) called with a loud Voice to them, tahal, tahal Harami, that is, Come hither, come hither you Thiefs, &c. they halted for a little while, and were so afraid of us, that they turned their Backs and run away. Afterwards when we feared nor expected their Assaults any more, they came quickly again a second time, in a far great∣er Number than before. They led before them one Camel, and several Horses (which in the dark we could only discern by their Heads looking against the Sky) in their Hands, without doubt, that we might look upon them to be Travellers, or else that we might not be able to discern their Number. But notwithstanding all this their first Assault was still in fresh Memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew soon up in our former Order again (wherein I was the left-hand Man

in the first Rank again, with my Scymeter drawn, and had before armed my Breast with several sheets of Pa∣per, that I had brought with me to dry my Plants in) expecting their assault every Moment. But when they made a halt again, (fearing their Skin as much as we did ours) and did neither shout nor move up to∣wards us, one of ours provok'd them, and did shoot at the Camel, and did hit it so that it gave a Sign there∣of, but the rest forbore to fire. So they Staid a little while, and then went off a Second time.

So we kept awake all the Rest of the Night, and kept a good Watch, and went on our Journey again early the next Morning about break of the Day; and came a∣gain to wide and dry Heaths, where we saw neither Men nor Beasts, and so we went on till Noon, where we encamped in a large Place, which was surround∣ed with Walls and Ditches pretty well, just like unto a Fortress, whereof there are several in these dan∣gerous Places to be seen. When we stayed there, two Curters came again to us into our Camp, and spoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the Toll that was due there, it being their Place: but our Mer∣chants soon perceived, that they were not in a right Cause, wherefore they would allow them nothing, which put these two into such a Passion, that they drew their Swords, and would have at us; but our Friends did not stay idle neither, but took their swords away, and laid on with dry Blows at them, and so flung them out of our Camp. After this Hubbub was over, we dined, and that the rather that we might not be too much weakned by our hard travelling, and so be the less able to resist these Robbers, for want of Strength if they should fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before Night, chiefly in great Desarts, for there we used to get up presently after Mid night, and tra∣vel all Day long with all Speed, without eating, which I had often experimented before; wherefore I used to provide my self always with Bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either stay behind or go before: for no body eats openly by the way in the sight of others, except he has a mind to run a Hazard, because

that most of them are very hungry, and so eager at it, that they will assault one another for it, and take it away from their very Mouths. After we had refreshed our selves, and fed our Beasts (which useth to be done also but once aday) we broke up with our Caravan, and went on again. We quickly saw some Mountains before us, where, when we approached them towards the Evening, there appeared sometimes, on a high one that before the rest lieth nearer to the Plain, some of them, so that we might very well presume, that there was more of them behind in Ambuscado, which also proved very true: For no sooner were we pass'd it, but before we went up the Hill, they came out from behind the Mountain, in great Troops on Horse-back, which immediately drew up into order in the Fields, in Two Squadrons, Three and Three in a Rank, to the Number of about 300, almost as many as we were. They exercised their Horses (which were very lank) very swiftly, turn'd sometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and came at length to us within a Bows Shoot. They had most of them Darts, which they plaid withal in their full Speed, sometimes holding it down-wards as if they would run through a Deer, which was a pleasant but very dangerous Sight to us. When they shewed themselves so as if they would fall upon us instantly, we drew our Ca∣ravan close together, in order to resist them. Where∣fore we stood still, and tied our Beasts together and bound the Fore foot of each of them, that they could not stir: behind them stood our Mockeri, with their Bows and all those that were not well provided with Arms, and Horses, either to shoot at the Enemy, or else in Case of Necessity, if they should come too near us, to sally out, and cut off their Horses with our Scy∣meters. Near unto us our Horses were drawn up into a Troop, ready for their Assault, to venture their Suc∣cess. After a whole Hour's delay we sent at length two of our Company to them, and they sent also Two of theirs to meet them to parley together: But which way they made up an Agreement I know not, but they prevailed so much with them, that soon after they left

us, and rode away, and we went on in our Journey. After this we kept our Caravan (that is so much to say as a great many People, with loaden Camels, Asses, and Horses) in far better Order than we had done be∣fore, and came that same Day a good Way, to a small Village, where we encamped and stayed all Night. We found no Wood thereabout, wherefore we made shift with Bread, instead of other Victuals, and were very glad we had it. In the mean time the Inhabi∣tants came to us, to gather the Dung of our Beasts (as they do in several other Places, chiefly in the De∣sarts of Arabia) to burn it instead of Wood, which they do after the following Manner.

They make in their Tents or Houses a Hole about a Foot and half deep, wherein they put their earthen Pip∣kins or Pots, with the Meat in them closed up, so that they are in the half above the middle, Three Fourth Parts thereof they lay about with Stones, and the Fourth Part is left open, through which they fling in their dried Dung (and also sometimes small Twigs and Straws, when they can have them) which burn im∣mediately and give so great a Heat, that the Pot groweth so hot as if it stood in the middle of a lighted Coal-heap, so that they boil their Meat with a little Fire quicker than we do ours with a great one on our Hearths; so that these poor People, must make very hard Shift, and do sometimes as the Israelites did in the Siege of Jerusalem, where they also in their greatest Necessity did boil their Meat with Dung of Men and Beasts, as you may read in the 4th Chapter of Ezekiel. This Night and several others before, we passed more with watching than with sleeping, so that sometimes we contemplated the Constellations of the Skies, which are very much observed by these Nations, but chiefly by the Arabians, which lodge always in the open Air and have no Shelter, so that by the Stars they know the Hour of the Night, and when it is time for them to break up. They care not for Beds, but rather have Cloaks or Tapestry wherein they wrap themselves up and keep themselves warm, so that no Frost, nor Rain, nor Dew can hurt them.

The next Morning we broke up (that we might not expose our selves any further) only after Day∣light, and travelled all Day long without any Molesta∣tion or Hinderance a long way after several rough Mountains: and also the next Day through sandy De∣sarts, which were deep and hindred our going on very much. When it began to be Night, our Beasts were almost ready to lie down under their Burthens in the Sand, which was very tiresome to us, and that the rather, because we saw the Town Zibin far off be∣fore us, at Four Miles distance, but at length we got out of this bad Road, into green Meadows, to very clear Springs, which run over in several Places to water them: So that we began to make more speed, and came the same Night yet very late into the Town. It is a fine Place subject unto the Turkish Emperour, not very big, lying on Ascent, very well surrounded and fortified with Walls and Ditches. It is full of Conduits or Springs, but chiefly in the great Camp, where we rested for five Days to stay for more Com∣pany. There live Abundance of Armenians in it, for it lieth in the Confines of the greater Armenia, and so we were no more in so great danger as we were in the Country of the Curters. During my staying there, the abovementioned rich Armenian Merchant, and also an eminent Turkish Gentleman (which were very kind to me upon the Road) desired me several times (having heard from the Jews that I was a Physician) that I would be pleased to go along with them to Ca∣rahemit, which Town was Four Days distant at the other side of the Tigris) to cure some of their Relations that were not well, they proffered me good Entertain∣ment, and to recommend me to the young Bashaw Son of Mahomet Bashaw (which was also sick at that time) and to bring me into good Business; which I would have done with all my Heart, and nothing could have pleased me better, than to have served the Armenian for his Kindness. Yet because I was sent for to come to Aleppo, and could not but be as good as my Word, wherein I had also no small Interest, I was obliged to leave that Journey, and to strive with all Speed and

Diligence to get thither. Now as this Bashaw is among the rest (except the Visir-Bashaws, whereof there are four or five, which are always at Court about the Tur∣kish Emperour, as being his Privy Council) the Chief∣est in Turky, so he hath larger and more fruitful Ter∣ritories than he of Bagdet, or any other, to govern, viz. Assyria, Mesopotamia, and a large part of the greater Armenia, and of the Province of the Curters, &c. all which border upon the Dominions of the Sophi King of Persia.

After we had refreshed our selves during this time, very well, and other Companies had joined us, we broke up on the 20th. towards Night, and went away. By the way we saw several plough'd Fields and Villa∣ges, and we could speak better with the People, for they understood the Armenian, Turkish or Arabian Languages, which are generally used in these Countries. So our Travels went on with great speed, so that we reached on the 21st. late, the Town of Hochan, where the Jews rested and kept their Sabbath. Here we re∣ceived the News that Solyman the Turkish Emperour was Deceased.

The 23d. we got up early again, and went the next way to Orpha, another Town, to which we had Five Days Journey. From thence the nearer we came to the Mount Tauri (which separateth Armenia from Me∣sopotamia, towards the South) the worse grew the Roads, which we found very sufficiently the next Day, for when we came further into the Mountains, the ways were so full of Stones that we were hindered very much. Going thus on, after it had snowed a little (which I have never seen but twice in these Countries) it happened, that one of the Jew's Horses which was empty was frightened at something, and flung it self over and over. The Jew hearing this noise, looked back, and seeing me stand by it, he grew angry with me, as if I had done it, and began to handle his Bow and Arrows to shoot at me, when I found him in ear∣nest, and remembred how I lost my Wine in the Ship, when we went down the River, I did not delay, but went to hinder him, took him by his Leg and flung

him off his Horse, before he could take his aim at me; so we fell a boxing one another so long, until at length I tripped up his Heels. When the other two saw that we spoiled thus the Figure of the Snow, and that I was too hard for him, and had given him several hard blows, they came immediately to sepa∣rate us, and to make Peace again between us; I see∣ing that they did not come to wrong me, and also considering that we were to Travel together still fur∣ther, took their Counsel, and was friends with him again, and so we went on in our way. At Night we came to another Village again, in a narrow Valley ly∣ing at the bottom of a great ascent, near which we found a great Stable wherein we went, this was quite cut into the Hill, and so was that wherein we lodged the Night before, so that you could see nothing of it, but only the entrance, for they are commonly so in these hilly Countries under Ground, that the Caravans may safely rest there and defend themselves from Cold in the Winter. This Stable (being 25 Paces long and 20 broad, and all through equally high) was cut out of a Rock. About midnight, when we were in our first Sleep, one of the Grand Signior's Chiaus, or Chamber-Messengers, knocked at the door of the Stable, who was come back from Bagdet in Six Days to this place, to look about for some fresh Horses (because he had tired his own, and could not have others by the way, as in our Country where Posts are ordered.) So he went in, took away from one Mockeri or Carrier, three Pack-Horses, and two more from the Jew (that I had had Contention with before) for these Messengers of the Chamber have great Privileges, and in case of neces∣sity, where-ever they see Horses in City or Country, they may take them leaving theirs in the room thereof: They value one no more than another, except Mer∣chants and Strangers, which they excuse before others, to encourage Trade; those that they come to, must deli∣ver up their Horses, without any reluctancy, except they have a mind to be soundly bang'd (as one of our Friends was that did not open the Gates immediately) or else to fare worse. When this Chiaus believed he had got

very good Horses, he soon found his mistake, for the Jew's Horses had galled Backs, wherefore he let him have them again for a small recompence, which was a Child's Coat made of delicate Indian Stuff. When our Journey was thus stopt, chiefly because of the Mockeri or Carrier, until he could procure himself other Horses in the room thereof, at least for that Day, we rose the earlier the next Day, and traversed seve∣ral rough Mountains, and went through narrow Val∣lies that Day, until at Night we came to a Village in∣habited by Armenians. These are good-hearted Chri∣stians, which have great Compassion on their Fellow-Christians, and love to entertain and to be kind to Strangers, which I have very often experienced, but chiefly in this Village, where one of the Armenians took me and the Jews into his House, and would fain have kept us also the next Day. Being at leisure, I would fain have conferred and discoursed with him con∣cerning our Christian Faith, and so was he willing, but being that we could not understand one another, and the Jews were in this case by no means proper Inter∣preters, we were forced to have patience by silence, and to look at one another. About that time they kept Lent, which I could perceive by their small sort of Diet (for they did eat nothing but leguminous Food and Bread and Water.) After he had set before us some boiled Eggs at Night, and I being hungry fell on them, not imagining that they kept such strictness and difference in their Diet, he admired that I did not refuse to eat the Eggs, and asked me by one of the Jews, whether I did not know that it was not allow∣ed to Chistians to eat Eggs and the like Victuals in Lent; at this I would fain have answered him (that it became Christians to keep Lent rather with Soberness and Abstinency, than with Distinctions and Differen∣ces of Foods.) But I not understanding the Language, only answered him briefly, that our Lent was not yet begun, nor would until three Weeks hence begin, which did content him presently.

The 28th. we went on our Journey again, and came right among the high Mountains, which were very

rough, and full of Bushes; we got out of them before Night, and lodged our selves in the next Village, which lieth on an ascent in the Plain, where we also stayed the next Day being the Sabbath. By the way, when the Jews were in fear of having their Horses taken away, as was done some Days before, they often gave them to me to lead them, as if they were mine, hoping to carry them off the easier, so that although they were my Guides, yet I was their Safeguard.

After we had past the great and rough Mountains, and were come into a very fruitful Valley, which ex∣tendeth it self for a small Day's Journey to Orpha, there appeared presently on each side several Villages, and afterwards the Costly City against us with the Castle situated on the Hill, very pleasantly. Into this we got on the 30th. at Night very early, and went to lodge in the large and very well built Camp, and stayed there for four Days. This Town is very plea∣sant, pretty big and with Fortifications well provided. It was formerly together with the whole Country, be∣longing to the Kings of Persia, but now it is as well as the greatest part of the Country, brought under the subjection of the Turkish Emperour. Orpha is a Town of very good Trade; they deal in Tapestry of several sorts, some whereof are made there, and sent out to us; there is also a great Deposition of Merchandices, which are brought thither from Aleppo, Damascus, Constantinople, and other places, to go to Carahemit, Five Days Journey distant from hence, and so to be carried further into Media, Persia, the Indies, &c. yet all these Goods are brought thither in Caravans by Land, because there is no Navigable River belonging to it. Some say that this Town was anciently called Haran and Charras, from whence the Patriarch Abraham de∣parted with his Wife Sarah, and his Brother's Son Lot, according to the Command of God, Gen. Chap. 12. and went forth to go into the Land of Canaan, which the Lord had promised to give him, and there is a plentiful Well still to this Day called Abraham's Well, where the Servant of Abraham (whom he sent into Me∣sopotamia to the Town of Nahor, to fetch a Wife for

his Son Isaac, from his own Kindred) did first see Re∣becca, when she gave him and his Camels some Wa∣ter to drink out of this Well. And so did afterwards the Patriarch Jacob, when he fled from his Brother Esau, at this same Well, make himself known to Ra∣chel the Daughter of Laban his Mother's Brother, when he removed the Stone from the head of the Well, and so let her Sheep drink. The Water of this Fountain hath a more whitish troubledness than others. I have drunk of it several times out of the Conduit, that runs from thence into the middle of the great Camp, and it hath a peculiar Pleasantness and a pleasant Sweet∣ness in its taste. To the same did also come the Son of the Pious Tobias, conducted by the Angel Raphael, whom his Father sent to Rages (now called Edessa) as is above-mentioned, to call in a Debt from Gabel, as you may read in the 11th. Chapter of his Book, when they returned by the way of Haran, which is half way to Nineve.

After the Jews had done their Business there with good Success, we went on in our Travels again, and came again into the high and rough Mountains, where we spent also the next Day with great trouble and hardship, until we came again to the great River Eu∣phrates into the Town Bir, whereof I have made men∣tion before. And although we had no more but two half Days Journey to Aleppo, yet the Jews my Fellow-travellers had Business in the Famous Town Nisib, (which is situated on this side the River on the bor∣ders of the lesser Armenia) so that we were bound to go thither; so we put out again on the 6th. of February after their Sabbath, and went through very fruitful and well cultivated Corn-Fields, to Andeb, towards Evening. It is a pretty big Town, but not very strong. It lieth on two small Hills very pleasantly, so that you may see it plainly and distinctly, as soon as you come from out of the Valley by the Lake into the Fields. Yet notwithstanding that it is so pleasantly situated and looketh so stately at a distance, it is but pitifully built when you come within it. In former Ages this Town hath been several times besieged by the Kings of

Persia, by whom it was taken at last, and kept so long, until the Roman Emperour Galienus Odenatus Palmy∣renus, took it from King Sapor, together with the Town Orpha, and laid it to the Roman Empire again. But in these our Times, to our grief, it is brought a∣gain, together with all the Country, under the Ottoman Slavery. The Inhabitants have very little Trade, they live for the most part upon their Estates, by cul∣tivating their Grounds, and chiefly from the Fruits of Vineyards and Orchards, which are planted with Pomgranates and Figs, &c. so thick, (that from the great quantity of Trees they may have the more Fruit) that you would at a distance, rather take them to be Woods of wild Trees, than of fruitful ones. So they send Yearly many sorts of Fruits, but chiefly Cibebs into the Eastern Countries, by great Caravans, where∣of I have met many. After we had staid here, and I had lost a whole Day, for their Business sake, we broke up again directly for Aleppo, and having passed for se∣veral Miles through rough, bad, hilly ways, we came at length into a plain, delicate and fruitful Country, so fruitful of Wine and Corn, that on all my Journey, I have seen none like unto it. This did almost extend it self to Aleppo, where we arrived early, with the help of the Almighty God, in very good health, on the 10th. Day of February. At my arrival, because my Comrade Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, with the rest, were not there then present, presently some French Merchants (which I had cured of several Distempers before my departure) came to me, and carried me home with them, desiring me to live with them untill my Business (which caused me to come back) were done, wherein really they did me a very great Kindness. For I having very well torn my Cloaths (which never came from my Back in half a Years time) I had there an Opportunity to rest my self and to procure my self some new ones. I thank the Almighty God, for his many Mercies and Favours bestowed on me, and the Assistance he graciously af∣forded me in this Voyage, returning him Praise, Honour and Glory, &c.

CHAP. XI.

Of the Turkish Physicians and Apothecaries; Of my Comrade, Hans Ulrich Krafft of Ulm's, hard Imprisonment. Of the great Danger that I was in, in the two Towns of Aleppo and Tripoli. Of the murdering of some Merchants, and what else did happen when I was there.

AT my return to Aleppo, where my Business obliged me to stay a while, I came to understand, that du∣ring my absence, several Italians and French-men, were in their Sickness but very slightly served by the Jews their Physicians; wherefore I did not only soon re∣cover my former Acquaintance and Practice by them, but might have also stept into great Business with the Turks, for I was presently so well known, that I had much to do to excuse my self with Discretion to get off of them, that I might escape their Anger and Dis∣pleasure, which I must have got, if I had served them never so faithfully, which I knew several had before me found by experience. Wherefore at the instance of se∣veral good Friends, I only cured two great Persons, whereof one was a Georgian, and at that time Sangiack of Jerusalem, which were very well pleased with me, and requited me accordingly. The Physicians general∣ly in these Parts, agree before hand for the Cure with their Patients, for a certainty, according to the Condi∣tion of the Patient, and his Distemper, and have se∣curity for their Money, but yet it is not paid to them, before the Patient is cured. They have a great many Physicians, but they are very unskilful, chiefly the Turks which know none but their own Language, and so cannot read the Authors of Physick that have writ in another Language, as the Jews can. But seeing that the Jews are very much addicted to Covetousness, they

endeavour rather to promote their own Interest, than that of their Patients; so that the Turks are but slightly provided with Physicians, and therefore rather die like Flies, than take advise of their Physicians, chiefly of the Jews, which are not contented with a small Reward; to this add also that the Turks never put any Confi∣dence in the Jews, and esteem their Counsel but little; and besides, they believe that God hath already pre-or∣dained every one his Death, so that he that is born to be drowned cannot be hanged. And besides all this, the Jews do not stick close to them in time of ne∣cessity, but fly presently, and first of all in time of Sick∣ness (which certainly happens once in Seven Years, if not in Five or sooner) just like Hirelings, as they have sufficiently experienced in the last Plague in the Year 72, with the loss of several Persons of Worth and Quality; chiefly among the rest a Turkish Pay-Master, by them called Daftedar, and another Eminent Turk, and their own Sons, which both of them (although this proferr'd to lay 3000 Duckets, and the other 10000, into the Hands of a third Person) yet were neglected and lest by their Physicians and died. It is very much in use a∣mong them, that if any body doth find himself not well, another puts his Arms cross before him, and so graspeth him about his Back, and lifteth him up, and sets him down again, and shaketh him several times, just as they use to do Sacks with Corn, to make them lie the closer and to hold the more. As the Physicians are, so are also the Apothecaries, where you find nothing of any great Compositions, nor purging Electuaries, as Elect. Diacatholicon, Diaphoenicon, &c. (although they have the best Ingredients thereof, for we have them all sent from them) except they be sent to them from Marseilles or Venice, &c. If you have occasion for any Herbs, Roots or Seeds, &c. you must go your self, not without great trouble and losing of time, and find them either in the Fields, or else at the Grocers and other Shop-keepers. Among the rest of the things they had, I soon knew the Rob Ribes by its ancient Name and pleasant sourish Taste, whereof they make a great quantity in this place, and send it further into other Countries, but chiefly to

the Turkish Emperour; wherefore in the Easter Week they had already gathered several Sacks full of the Stalks of the true Ribes of the Arabians (which are hairy, al∣most two Foot long, and of the thickness of an Inch, of a greenish colour, and underneath, as also Serapio mentioneth, reddish,) from the Mount Libanus, and brought it to the Cadi to make Rob of it for him. I saw them lie in his Court-yard, and several of them were given me to taste, and to take away with me. What Herbs I found at my return else, because there are but a few of them, therefore I have put them among the rest here-above in a peculiar Chapter. I saw there se∣veral strange Birds, and among others some of a deli∣cate green and blue colour, which were about the big∣ness of our Nut-crackers, by them called Sucuruck, and by others Alsecrach. I also found their Alhabari, which are not unlike our Peacocks, and almost as big, and could not fly much. Of four-footed Beasts, I saw seve∣veral, and among them some Civet-Cats, which were brought thither in Caravans, from remote Parts and the Indies. In the Fundique of the Consul of the Venetians, I saw a very sharp sighted one like unto a Lynx, exactly of the shape of a Cat, so that it was not easily distinguished from it, save only in its bigness (for it is much higher and slimmer). This is a very wild and fierce Beasts, so that his Keeper himself was afraid of it. It once got loose, and got through the Yard below into an Apothecaries Shop, wherein he had just then put a great many Glasses that were sent him from Venice, whereof it broke the greatest part before it could be taken again. When I was there, a young Rhinoceros was carried through the Town to Constantinople. It came from the most Eastern Parts, and had killed above 20 Men before they could take it. They also lead daily some Lions about the Town in small Chains, which have small Bells before, that every body may take the sooner Notice of them; they are so tame, that their Keepers sometimes wrastle with them in open Places, neither do they easily grow wild, except they should see Sheep, then their Keepers have enough to do to keep them off, and to appease them. Without in the Fields in high

and bushy Places, are sometimes found Chamelions, which are somewhat bigger than our green Lizards, but a great deal leaner and higher upon their Legs; they walk very slowly and lazily, they live a great while with∣out Meat like the Serpents, and are a very ugly Crea∣ture. If we put it upon a coloured red, yellow, or black Cloth, it hath by degrees changed its natural green Co∣lour into the same that the Cloth was of.

Having ended my Business I had, and in the mean time received a Letter from my Comrades that were at Tripoli, I parted from thence according to their desire, and came on the 5th. of May, Anno 75, to them in Tri∣poli. After some Days arrived also with some Goods, one of their chiefest Carriers, which they call Mokeri, which swore to me by his Head, that is, he affirmed upon his Faith and Reputation, that the Sub-Bashaw of Aleppo, when he was departing from thence, had sent his Bailiffs to my Lodgings to apprehend me, and to fling me into the publick Turkish Gaol, because they were very well assured, that when I was on the Hills (where they had seen me look for Plants) I had observed the Situation of the Town, and all the Country very diligently, that I might, when I should have an opportunity, betray them to their Enemies, and shew them the best way to take it. But all this was contri∣ved that they might have an opportunity to take an A∣varia on me, as the Merchants call it there in these Countries, that is to say, they would accuse me falsly to make me punishable, that they might get a sum of Money out of me. And the Carrier also really believed, for as much as he heard of them, that they would not have let me come off for less than 200 Saraffi or Duc∣kets, one whereof maketh two of their Gilders. Thanks be to our Lord God, who hath delivered me from their unjust Accusations and Contrivances, and brought me safe to this place. At my arrival at Tripoli, when I expected to live securely and quietly, and thought that I was passed all danger, I fell notwithstanding all this into a∣nother; for when my Comrades, and with them also Hans Ʋlrich Krafft (yet without any transgression) were flung into the Turkish Gaol, by the Contrivances

of some Turks, the same Rogues had also a mind to con∣trive something against me, to bring me in also. But the French Vice-Consul, Andrew Bianchi, who was my very good Patron, took my Part, in so much that he did recover my Liberty by the Turks, in spite of my Accusers and not only got me Licence to walk freely without molestation in and about the City where-ever I pleased, but did also procure me a free and safe Ac∣cess to my Comrades, to see them in Prison as often as I pleased. Into the Prison wherein they were kept, I must always go through three small and low Doors, which the Keepers did always very freely and without any grumbling open unto me, to go in or out, and some∣times I have staid there all Night with them. I was al∣ways in very great hopes that God Almighty would have ordered it so, that their Adversaries might have a∣greed with them, so that I and my dear Friend whom I loved as my own Brother, Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, might have been returned home again with Joy. But it pleased God to order it other ways, for the Differences grew the longer the more difficult, and were so long produced, that this Young Gentleman, particularly Hans Ʋlrich, was kept there in this hard Imprisonment very near three Years. To tell all that he suffered and endured there, would be too long here; only this I cannot omit to tell you, that he did endure and conquer all these Troubles and Adversities (as I did see my self) with such a Cou∣rage, Patience and good Conduct, that notwithstanding all these (although he was almost left quite Comfortless) he was rather fit to comfort others than to be comforted. When I went thus in and out to them, I observed very well that the Turks have very great Compassion on poor distressed Prisoners, and are very free to give them Alms, and a Man used to come in daily with Bread or boiled Meat, as Rice, and other sorts of boiled Corn, chiefly on Feast-Days after the Afternoons Lecture was over, and when he distributed them, he did also always as he went by, fling in for each of them a little Loaf (very like unto them they Bake in Lent in our Country) into their Apartment before them upon the Ground, wherewith they must make shift, except they could live

of their own means, or get something by their Hand-labour (whereof there was a good many that did) to maintain themselves. These Alms the Turks give ra∣ther freely, without being ask'd for it, for they believe that God is better pleased with that which they give freely, than that which is begged of them. Wherefore they have very few or no Beggars in their Towns, which beg Alms as they do in our Country. During my stay at Tripoli, I did at the request of the Consul, live in his Fundique, who entertained me very honourably, that I might give Attendance, and if any of the Merchants or Sea-men, should happen to be sick, I might use my best endeavour to cure them. So I did in the space of three Months, cure, only in our Fundique, above Forty Men of all sorts of Distempers, viz. malignant Fevers, violent Gripings of the Guts, &c. which generally befell them that were lately arrived, and were not yet acquainted with the Air and Diet of the Country. There happened in these Days, a miserable cruel Case, that some (among whom were Five Italians and One French-man) did ar∣rive at Tripoli, which made themselves soon ready to go from thence further to Aleppo, with their Merchandices to sell there. Upon the Road they left their Caravan too far behind them, and met with some Horse-men, which spoke to them, and desired them that they would halt at the Command of their Master the Sub-Bashaw, and dismount, and go into the next Camp (which I found very desolate and ruined when I went by for∣merly) to stay there until he came to them, which would not be long, for he had something to say to them; the Merchants obeyed them readily, fearing that if they should not, they would be punished severely by the Sub-Bashaw for their Disobedience. After they were gone into the Camp, the Murderers immediately fell upon them, Shooting and Striking at them, until they killed them all at last, then they buried them in the Ground, mounted their Horses and rode away. Af∣ter these Murderers thought they were very secure, one of these Rogues (which were said to be Arabians) met one of the Mockeri or Carriers of the same Caravan, he knew the Horse immediately, and perceiving it to be

bloody, his Heart gave him that it was not right, where∣fore he made haste up to him, and thrust his bended Bagonet into his side, and took him Prisoner, and car∣ried him to Aleppo, where he was (as I did hear after∣wards) having confessed the Fact when he was upon the Torture, executed for it. They did also seek for the rest, but did apprehend none of them in the time of my staying. The Sultan else taketh great Care to keep the Roads safe and free from High-way Men, that Trading may go on without hinderance. Yet sometimes there are some of the great ones, and Men of Note, that put others upon it for gain's sake, so that one must be very careful in these Countries. It is not long ago when we had News, that not far off the Christians had taken some Ships from the Turks, and carried them off, and also formerly in the beginning of July of the last Year, they lost some more, and as I am informed, among them were Four great ones, Three Fliboats, and Two other, that were taken by Six Gallies of the Christians, which made the Turks mightily discontented; where∣fore the Emperour sends out many Gallies into seve∣ral places, chiefly to Rhodes, to cross the Seas up and down to keep them clear from Pirates, and to hinder them from making Incursions or Descents upon him. These come sometimes into this Port, but our Mer∣chants and the Masters of our Ships do not care for their arrival, for they are forced to present them with Cloths, Woollen Cloaths, Money, &c. if they will re∣main in Favour with them.

CHAP. XII.

Of the large and high Mount of Libanus, its Inhabitants and strange Plants that are found there.

WHen I stayed with the Consul at Tripoli, and had not a few of his in cure, in his Fundique, some others of other Nations did sometimes between

whiles desire my Assistance and Advice, and among the rest, an Eminent Patriarch of the Maronites, which reckon themselves to be Christians, and are called so from the Heretick Maro to this Day. This did live in the Mount of Libanus, and was carried down (although he had a whole Day's Journey to Tripoli, and was af∣flicted with that painful Distemper the Gout very se∣verely) to be cured by me. After some Days when he was pretty well recovered again, so that he intended to return home, he spoke to some of us in our Fundique, that we would be pleased to conduct him up the Hill home again, which was agreed unto very readily, con∣sidering that this Mountain is the most Famous in all the Country of Syria, whereof the Holy Scripture maketh several times mention, speaking of its great Height and Famous Rivers (of which Jordan is one) of its sweet smelling Plants, and pleasantly tasted Fruits; and also because there is a great many strange Plants to be found. So we rode along with the Patriarch (who had no little reason to be afraid of the Turks clandestine Assault) with all possible diligence, and came immediately from the Town upon the heights of the Promontories of the Mount Libanus, which were very Fruitful at the Top, and had many pleasant plain Fields, which extended themselves for three Leagues to the high Mount, so that this was a very pleasant Road, where we saw sometimes on one side, delicate Vineyards, then on the other, fruitful Fields sowed with Barley, white Indian Millet, &c. After this we came to plea∣sant Woods, where sweet singing Birds let them∣selves be heard, and recreated us; sometimes we saw some Hares and some Deer, so that we could not but fansie that we went through thick and dark Woods. When we came out of them, and were very near unto the Mountain, there lay some small Villages before it, and we went to one of them, and very near unto it in a green shady Place we sate down, and refreshed our selves with some Victuals, which we had taken along with us, before we began to go up the Mountain.

The Patriarch was very merry with us, and presented us with some Venice-Bottles of his Wine, whereof we

drank a good deal, for it was so pleasant that I must confess that I never in all my Life drank any like it. Soon after we broke up again, with an Intention to reach his Monastery that Night, called our Ladies, which lieth on the middle of the Mountain as we so travelled towards the Top thereof; in the beginning we came in∣to a narrow, and rough Valley, which had on both sides very steep Walls, wherewith it was enclosed, of a vast Height, chiefly at our left Hand, and yet towards the Top there were several Caves within them, wherein Christians live, whereof we saw a great many that ap∣peared so near to the edges as they went about, that we that travelled underneath had much to do to keep us from being giddy. In that place (where from the Height one may plainly see the whole Neighbourhood to the very Seas, as if it was a Specula, such as the An∣cients used to have) is always a strong Watch kept by the Inhabitants of these Mountains (because they are not under the Jurisdiction of the Turks, as others are, nor in any League with them) to hinder the Turks from making Incursions upon them. When we went fur∣ther, and got over some little Hills, we came out of this narrow Place into wide Meadows, Pastures, Corn fields, and to some fruitful Vineyards: Then again into narrow and deep rocky Roads where we had enough to do to climb over: And afterwards again into pleasant Groves, by delightful Rivolets that arose from Springs that made so sweet a Noise, that those Mountains are therefore ad∣mired and commended, chiefly by King Solomon in the 4th Chapter of his Song, verse 15th in Comparison, where he mentioneth the Streams from Lebanon, which make Damascus one of the most pleasant and delicious Places in the World.

On this Mount grow here and there, besides ordinary Trees and Bushes, thick shrubby Vines, Zizipha alba & rutila, Poplars, two kinds of Dwarf-Cedars with point∣ed and obtuse Leaves, Eupatorium Mesuae, Absinthium Ponticum, Elaeagni Math. by the Inhabitants called Sei∣sesun; and wild Horn-beams, a peculiar sort of Willows, Phyllireas, Styrax-Trees, the fragrant Gum whereof is to be found in Apothecaries Shops: But chiefly, and in

the greatest Number were the Maple-Trees, which are large, big, high, and expand themselves very much with their Branches. After we had rested our selves, and were a little refreshed underneath these, our Labour began again, to climb up these high and steep Steps. When we were thus a climbing, some Country-People (that we saw up so high before) came out of their Caves down to us, with Muggs full of Wine, which they pre∣sented first to their Master the Patriarch that was on Horse-back, receiving him with a great deal of Reve∣rence (bowing themselves down to his Feet) and loving Kindness, and afterwards they did detain us also, and presented each of us with a Mug of Wine, to bid us welcome, which I and the rest received very willingly, but having pretty well heated my self with going, I at that time loved spring-water with Bread dipt in it very well, I only tasted a little of it. After we were got up these Stairs, a great many more came running to present their Master with Chickens, Pullets and other Poultry, which his Man took and carried it up with them. Then the ways were pretty good, and much straighter so that we went on apace, until at length we came to the Monastery, which we could not see before we came just upon it. Just before it without is a most incomparable copious Spring, that sloweth with delicate Water, which is worthy to be often visited.

This Monastery (which is not extraordinarily built) lieth toward the left, almost in the middle of the Moun∣tain under a great Rock, which doth so cover and pre∣serve it, that it cannot easily receive any harm from a∣bove. At our Arrival the Monks came immediately, whereof I saw no more but Ten, and received us very kindly, and shewed us presently our Lodging, which because they had no Chambers to spare, was an arched Chapel, that we might know whither to repair: Yet we kept more upon the Top of the House (which was like others covered with Plaister) which was the deli∣catest and pleasantest Place of all the Buildings, where we could see the Situation of the snowy Hill towards the East above the Cedars, which was a very pleasant sight, and also below us several other Hills, whereon they feed

their Cattle, together with the deep and dark Valley: And, the Monastery being but small, so that they had not much room in it, we also supp'd there in the open Air, with the Patriarch and some of his Fraternity, on a long Table. They treated us very well, and gave us some white-wine to drink (which was better than that we drunk on the Hill) in Venice Glasses, the like whereof is not to be found neither in Candia nor Cyprus. But they fed, according to their Order, onely upon plain Food as Beans and French-Beans, and the like leguminous Fruit, &c. At Night when they conducted us to our Chambers to go to rest, they shewed us instead of Beds some Straw-Mats, and Tapestry spread upon the Ground in their Church on which we were to lie, and so we did and rested that Night. In the Morning they came very early before break of Day into the Church, when we were still very sleepy, to do their Office, and began immediately to ring two Bells, which made underneath the Rock such a resounding Noise, that it stupified us and made us (chiefly because some of us had heard none in two Years time, and were full of Sleep and but half awake) so dull, that we did not for a good while know where we were, until we came a little to our selves again. Afterwards I heard them with Attention for a good while, and did look into their Books which were written with Arabian Letters: But what Religion they were of, I shall tell you hereafter, when I shall make mention of other Christians.

At break of the Day we made our selves ready to go further up the Hill, to the Height thereof where the Cedars stand, to see them, so that we might come to the Monastery again. Along with us went two Monks to shew us the way; they conducted us back again to the rich Springs of Water, to the Stairs, which were very rough, and so steep that we were often forced to hold our selves by the Bushes, which we could reach at both Sides; but chiefly when we turned on a sudden, of which Turnings they had very many. So we got up higher and higher, with a great deal of Labour, until we came to a little Chapel standing just at the Top of the Stairs, on the Hill. Near to this Chapel is a small Village,

which we went through, and saw spacious Fields well cultivated, so that the Inhabitants of these Mountains, could have no want of Corn, Wine, Flesh or Oil, &c. although their Neighbours should not supply them for Years with any thing: And besides, their Lands are so well secured on the Height, and so locked up, as if they were surrounded with high Walls and deep Ditches: And moreover they are very a stout and warlike-People, very well provided with Bows and Guns, &c. so that their Neighbours cannot easily hurt nor do any Mis∣chief to them; and they are also soon alarmed, which we found, when these two Monks did immediately raise twelve Men well armed, in the furthermost Village to∣wards the snowy Hill, to conduct us safe up to the Cedars of the highest Mount, that their Neighbours the Trusci might not hurt us. But as I understood after∣wards the Trusci are in Confederacy with the Inhabi∣tants of Mount Libanus, so that they need not to fear any harm from them. But they rather did it to frighten us, to get a good Recompence from us that they might rejoice, and treat us the better (as Christians) on our return. So these Twelve went before us and con∣ducted us up to another but very barren and rough Plain, where we found our selves to be upon the highest point of the Mountain, and saw nothing higher but onely a small Hill before us, all covered over with Snow, at the Bottom whereof the high Cedar-Trees were standing, some whereof King Solomon ordered to be cut down to be employed for the use of the building of the Temple of Jerusalem. And although this Hill hath in former Ages been quite covered over with Cedars, yet they are since so decreased, that I could tell no more but Twenty Four that stood round about in a Circle and Two others, the Branches whereof are quite decayed for Age. I also went about in this place to look out for some young ones, but could find none at all. These Trees are green all the Year long, have strong Stems that are several Fathoms about, and are as high as our Firr-Trees. They have very large Twigs that bend the Tree, and make it lean that way, which somewhat spoileth their Straightness. Branches grow up streight, as also do the

Cones thereof, which are large and round, and extend themselves a great length, in so delicate and pleasant, Order and Evenness, as if they were trim'd, and made even with a great deal of Diligence, so that at a Di∣stance, you may see the Tops of them very even to one another. So that one may immediately see at a great Distance, a great Difference between these and other Firr-Trees. They are else very like unto the Larch-Trees chiefly in their Leaves, which are small, and all close together, but stand further asunder upon small brown Shoots, which in their Length and Bigness are like unto them of the Muscus terrestris.

After we had rested awhile underneath the Cedars, and began to be coldish in this windy, snowy and cold place, we began to return to the Monastery again. By the way I saw about the River three sorts of Tragacanth, one whereof I took according to its Shape to be that of the learned Carolus Clusius, which is very like unto the True Tragacantha. The Second is somewhat lower than the First, else it is very like unto it, only it beareth Yellow Flowers, each whereof groweth by its self in round yellowish bags, and several of them stand one above the other on long Stalks. The Third is almost of the same Height, and hath more brown coloured strong Stalks, with white woolly heads of Poterius, whereon you see purple coloured Flowers. I found also by them another Plant, which to be brief, (considering its brown coloured flexible Twigs, and longish fat Leaves▪ is very like unto the Chamaelea, of a very sharp Taste) I think to be the first kind of Sanamu••da of Carolus Clusius. Besides these I saw hereabout two thorny Shrubs, one whereof was with its red coloured Grapes (setting the Leaves aside as far as I remember) very like unto our Oxy∣acantha. The other which was full of Thorns, and had small red purple coloured Flowers, was like into the first kind of Scorpius of Carolus Clusius. Among the Bushes I saw the Scorzonera with yellow Flowers, and also a pretty sort of Tulips with yellow stripes, and not far from it the true Ribes of the Arabians, which I found in Autumn at an ill time, without Flowers or Seeds, only with two Leaves, as if it was just sprung up. The Leaves

thereof are rough and round, as big very near as those of Petasites (called Butterburn in our Language) which grow upon short yet thick Stalks, which are also full of a pleasant sowrish Juice, as well as their Stalks, where∣of chiefly the True Rob Ribes is prepared, as I have seen it my self, and Serapio testifieth. This loveth moist Grounds, hath a strong brown coloured Root, which is pretty long, wrinkly, bended, and of a very unpleasant Taste. On the hight of the Mount I saw more Plants, some whereof I had not time to mind, and others that are not yet known, wherefore I omit (for shortness sake) to say more of them.

The Mountain is very high, so that it may be seen in Cyprus about 200 Italian Miles off; wherefore the Day breaketh later at Tripoli, and not until the Morning Sun appeareth before it: And moreover you find there Snow all Summer long, which they bring down from the Moun∣tains, into the Batzars or Exchanges to sell, to cool their Drink with it chiefly in the Dog days, and fling it in by handfuls. Yet when we were at the Top, we could not see far about, being hindered by some Hills.

After we were come down from the Mountains into the little Village again, our Conductors brought us into a pleasant Garden where their Wives came to us, which brought to us several yet strange sorts of Milk-Meats to eat, and very good Wine to drink, so we sat down in the Grass according to their Fashion, to eat and drink, and to make merry, and spoke to them in the common Arabian Country Language, and what we could not speak out, we made them understand by Signs. After we had dined, we returned them many thanks, for all their Kindness and good Chear, and so we went away. By the way we saw more Plants, viz. the Alyssum of Diosc.; a delicate kind of Cynoglossum. And also near the Stairs some wild Fir-Trees, Polium Montanum, Mar∣rubium Creticum Lobelii, as I judged according to its shape. A delicate yellow Jacea with scaly Heads, and prickles like unto the Spina Solstitialis, which is low, yet it hath a long and strong Root, covered with a gray and hairy Rind, like unto the Victorialis, the Leaves are jag∣ged or laciniated, of an Ashen colour and hairy, as also

the two before mentioned; and another kind of Jacea, with purple coloured Flowers, which is very like unto the yellow one of Lobelius (which I have also found in Provence in France near Aix) saving only the prickles that are about the Heads. Just before we came quite down I found two kinds of Linaria, one whereof (that is of a pretty bitter Taste) puts forth long and slender Stalks from the Root, closely surrounded with a great number of Linaria Leaves, and hath at top one, two or three long scaly Heads, from whence issue small purple coloured Flowers; the other groweth also in Leaves and Stalks almost like unto the first, only they are smaller and tenderer, and hath quite to the top abundance of light and small purple coloured Flowers round about it (as the blue one of our Gardens). At length after a long travelling and climbing, we came just when the Night broke in, down to the Monastery again; after Supper we went strait to rest, that we might be up early again to go for Tripoli. After break of the Day when we had taken our leave of the Patriarch and his Brethren, and made our selves ready for our Journey, we came strait away. By the way we saw several of Arbores Judae, with their red coloured Husks; and also in the Rock a fine Gnapha∣lium, with Ash coloured roundish, Mouse-ear Leaves, and Snow-white double Flowers. As we went on, and were almost come to the House that stood upon the height, whereof we made mention before, these Inhabitants came down again, got before us, stopt us, and would not let us pass until we had drunk with them. Then we went on again, and I found in the deep and dark Valley the right Medium Dioscoridis, and Mindium Rhazis, which I did spie immediately among the Bushes, by its hight and specious purple coloured Flower. This Plant is very like unto the Viola Mariana, of the learned Rem∣pert Dodonus, very stately, so that no great Difference can be found but only in the Leaves, which in this are more carved, like unto those of Plantain, and in the Flowers which are more open, and spread themselves with their long and narrow Leaves, (whereof each hath eight) into a round Circle; the Seeds I saw not because they were not yet ripe, yet I found a greater Austerity in the Root

than in the Seed Vessels. Not far off, I also saw in the Val∣ley a strange Plant, which was of the height of a Cubit, and had whitish and woolly Leaves, like unto our Mullein, only they are less, and grow quite to the Stalk, as those of Tabaco, or of Hyoscyamus Peruvianus, of Rempert Dodon, at the top thereof grow fine purple coloured and white dou∣ble Flowers which stand close together, as those of the yel∣low Amaranth, or in the little Auricula Muris of Fuchsi∣us, so that according to all this, having also fragrant Roots, and like unto those of black Hellebore (which broke be∣cause I pulled it up in haste) as I judged by that part there∣of which still was left to them, I clearly take it to be the true Baccharis of Dioscor. In the Valley further down towards the Water, grew also the Oleander, and the Apocy∣num Repens, which climbeth upon the Trees that stand nigh it, and covereth them so that it hangeth down again at the sides, like the Ephedra of Pliny. After we came out before the Mountain, there appeareth the Italian Sphon∣dylium, Visnagia, &c. there we went into the next Village, and looked after the Victuals we had left, to refresh our selves. When we came from thence I found the black Cha∣maeleon with its handsome blue coloured Tops; Origanum, Onites, Lycium called also Zaroa by the Inhabitants, the second Acacia with trefoil Leaves, and when we came near to Tripoli, to the old and high Rivolet, between the Moun∣tains, I found the second Tragoriganum of Carol. Clusius Ceterach and low St. John's Wort, a fine Chamaedrys, &c. but above all, a Thorn-bush, about the height of a Cubit, very thick of Twigs and Stalks, so that some of them lie upon the Ground: The Stalks (whereof many grow out of a Root of a drying quality, and somewhat bitter) are surrounded with a tender gray Rind, underneath which is another reddish one to be found. Its long tender Leaves that grow one against the other (which are of the colour of Ashes underneath, and green above) are very like unto the Leaves of our Sanguisorba; between them at the Top or the Crown sprout out many Thorns, the biggest where∣of divide themselves at the Top into other less ones in very good order, so that some point down, and some up∣wards, and others towards the sides, and some thereof sprout out further before the rest, which sprout our early in the Spring, and bear small greenish coloured starry

Flowers; from underneath them grow out small soft Berries of a whitish Colour, and some reddish, which are so close together, and stand in their Ranks, (at the Top whereof the Flower is still plainly to be seen) like unto our Currans. The Seeds thereof I have raised in the famous Garden of the Generous and eminent Hans Heinrich Herwarts, Alderman of this Place, very easily and they grew up until they were ready to blow: But as other Outlandish Plants do seldom endure our Climate, so did this also die the next Winter. It is called by the Inhabitants Bellen. But I am of Opinion, according to its shape, (for of its Virtue and Use, I can say nothing because I never tried it) that it is the Hippophië of Dioscor. so long until others give me a better instruction. Not far from hence I found on the Height, near to the Town in a rough place, another fine Plant, not unlike unto our Gingidium, only that it hath less Fenil Leaves and beareth a roundish Seed, with many smooth Wings hanging round about it, which close themselves almost into a Knot together, with its tender Leaves, which sprout out underneath the Crown, like unto the black Coriander: Which induced me to enquire after it, more narrowly what to call it, and being I found that it had a small white Root, tender Leaves, and a bitterer Taste than our wild Parsnip, and also in the middle of the Crown a blew∣ish Knob, I cannot judge it but to be the true Gingidium of Dioscor. From thence we soon went down the Stairs again, and came by some Turkish burying-Places, and some wild Figg-Trees, by them called Mumeitz (where∣of a great many are growing in these Grounds) into the Town of Tripoli.

Soon after an honest and skillful Botanist, to whom I came to inquire after Plants, told me that a great many more were to be found thereabout. Wherefore I went out again to look for them, and to get them also. So I found first upon the Height near the Vineyards a Cassia Monspeliensium, which be called Mackmudi and Mack∣misi, and the Berries thereof Habel Mickenes. But whe∣ther this is to be taken for the Avacsium Rhasis, or no I cannot certainly affirm. This is so common in these places that they make Brooms of its Twigs. Moreover I found in the Vineyards another stately fine and strange

Plant, which was about two Cubits high, and had whi∣tish, woolly, and long, sharp pointed Leaves, which are set round with small prickles about the edges, and had on each side towards the Stalk little Ears, as our Sorrel and Spinage have: It is of a bitter Taste, and at the Top there∣of on long Stalks grow many smooth Hands which in their bigness and Flowers are very like unto the yellow Jacea.

But that I may not be too tedious (it being not my In∣tention to treat here of every one at length) I will men∣tion but one more before I conclude, which I found just at the Spouts where in Rainy Weather the Water runs down from the Mount of Libanus; which is the true white Behen of the Arabians, and is still to this Day called Behmen-ahied, as the red is called Behmen-ackmar, which also doth not stand far off, as my Friend that ex∣perienced Botanist hath informed me. But because I was daily ready to go on Ship board, to come home again, I had not time to obtain it; this was at that time almost decayed, yet I found still some green Leaves about it, so that by all appearance, it doth endure the Winter, and so shoots out a new by degrees, which grow up yearly a∣gain instead of the old ones, these put forth long great and pointed Leaves, as big, sharp and as thick as a Leafe of a Pear-Tree; they have partly under∣neath on the Stalks four much less, which stand two and two against one another; and one also finds out a few of them on round Stalks (many whereof grow out of the same Root, about the height of a Cubit) where the up∣permost stick quite close to it, as you may see on the Smyrnium Creticum; On the Top it puts forth oblong scaly yellow Buttons, each of them on their peculiar Stalk, from whence issue Flowers of the same colour; it hath a very long Root, which at the Top shoots out great Branches, that grow so thick, that in time they may be separated and transplanted; but else they have but very few Fibers, so that they rather are smooth, and also almost as tough and pliable as Liquorish Root, to which it is very like in its bigness and colour, only it is some∣what whiter, and not so strait. But why Avicen maketh mention also of its wrinkles, I am of Opinion that he rather speaketh of the greater sort, which is more wrinkly and rougher, and also for above a Span long, seem to be

shrunk of Age and turned woody, or decayed and dried up, although within they are still juicy, limber, and have kept their natural colour. I was also informed of others, viz. of the Costus Syriacus, which they still know by the Name of Chast, and is found about Antiochia: And not far off from thence is also found the Nux vomica as some esteem them, by the Inhabitants called Cutschula; which together with a great many other Famous ones I might have obtained, if I could have had a true, faithful and experienced Guide; but for want of such a one, and also because I could stay no longer, I was forced to leave them behind, to be hereafter found out by such that shall un∣dertake the like Journies.

CHAP. XIII.

Cunning and deceitful Stratagems of the Grand Turk against the Inhabitants of Mount Li∣banus the Trusci, and Maronites: And how he made War with them, and what Damage they sustained by it.

HAving here before made mention of the Maronites and Trusci their Neighbours and Allies, I cannot but must also go further, and briefly relate, how the Turk did make War against them (as to whom they are not yet quite subjected) during the time of my staying in these Countries. But from whence this War did first arise, and had its beginning, I was thus informed, that it broke out about one of their Governours, which lived then for a little time at Damascus. For when the Grand Signior did observe that these People did daily grow in Number and Strength, he considered, that if he should let them go on so, and neglect to curb them in time, they might probably after a while grow too Potent for him; wherefore he thought it requisite, to study and make it his Business to find out ways and means to subdue them and to reduce them under his Power. In order thereunto,

he apprehended the Governour that lived then in Dama∣scus, and put him into Prison, and at length took away his Life unjustly under pretence as if he had endeavoured to raise a Rebellion; not doubting but that when he had removed their Head, he might the easier subdue and re∣duce these People. But when the Trusci and Maronites understood this cruel and abominable Fact, not without Grief and Trouble, they were not only not at all discoura∣ged from resisting so Great and Formidable an Enemy, but rather took new Courage that was promoted by the great Anger this detestable Fact put them into, so that they united themselves the firmer, and did unanimously re∣solve to oppose him with all their Might and Power, and to stand by their ancient Liberty; and accordingly they began immediately to Arm themselves, to Fortifie their Villages, and chiefly their Passes, and to provide them∣selves with Guns, Bows and Arrows, and all other things necessary for their Defence, so that in case of Necessity they might be ready to resist their Enemies, being such a kind, that kept neither Faith nor Promises, which they had often experienced to their great Grief and Losses. So that in all probability it was like to be a War, which also broke out with great Violence within a little time after. But because I went for Bagdet at the same time (where in former Years the Potent Caliphi did reside) I did hear no more of it in all my Journey until at my return, when my Comrade Hans Ʋlrich Krafft of Ʋlm, then Prisoner in Tripoli, did relate it to me, so as it was reported to him by Credible Hands; who told me that the Trusci are very numerous, that they were divided into several Regi∣ments, of several colours, and that those that live in the middle of the high Mountains were the most nume∣rous of them all, that they live in a Country that is very well secured and surrounded, so that they need not, nor will not be subject either to the Turks or any other Po∣tentate. They are Warlike People, for the generality good Gunners, that make their own Guns and any o∣ther sorts of Arms, &c. they have plenty of Corn, Oyl, Wine, good Meat and good Fruit, so that they need not any Assistance of Strangers. They chiefly deal in Silk, whereof they wind (from Silkworms) about 100 Ro∣tulas in a Year (which is about 450 Hundred weights)

to send from thence into other Countries. These have their white Colours, and their Confederates that live on the outward Hill toward the Sea, at Baruti near Tripoli, have red ones, and have also their Colonel which they call Ermin Mackfur, which also those that belong unto the white Colours acknowledge to be theirs, as well as their own (which was lately murdered.) This because he could not entrench himself as well as the other Trusci on the Hill, agreed with the Great Sultan, and made Peace, upon this account, that if he would let him live peace∣ably and quietly, he would help him to Protect the Country, and pay unto him yearly the accustomed Tri∣bute, but if the Grand Signior would not be pleased with this proferr, he would join the rest and assist them. The Emperour accepted of this, and did not only make this Ermin Mackfur Lord of all Baruti and Seide, called Sidon, but did also procure him a great and plentifull Yearly Revenue out of these Countries; thinking thus to oblige him, to help him with his Trusci to subdue the others, not doubting but that he might easily overcome these, when once the others on the Mountains were killed. But they would not get up the Hill, but did proferr to the Turks, that if their Men and the Moors would go up, they would be ready in the Valley about Baruti, to cut off all that should fall into their hands. This Answer they gave to the Sultan, only for Fashion's sake, for no Truscus killeth the other. When the Sultan saw that they would not bite one another, and that he was not like to obtain any great matter from the Colonel, he did notwithstanding send up the Bashaw, of Damascus with Six other Bashaws and Seventeen Sangiacks about Two Hundred Thousand strong, both Foot and Horse well Armed, to subdue the before-mentioned Trusci which were about Sixty Thousand strong, to burn, de∣molish and destroy their Towns, Villages, Houses and Plantations. After they were come up to the Ascent Two Days Journey from Damascus, they found the Roads so steep that no body could pass them on Horse∣back, for there was nothing to be seen but rough and sharp-pointed Rocks. So they agreed to dismount, and to go up to them on Foot, and so they took presently Six or Seven Villages (whereof there is said to be Twenty

Seven in all) but they found nothing in them but some Women and Children and very few Men (the rest were got upon the Hills where they had intrenched themselves) which were all cut in pieces, and the Villages burnt.

The Turks and Moors thought themselves obliged, ac∣cording to their Emperours Command, to go on further, so they endeavoured and got up higher, but could not do any more harm to the Trusci, being hindered by the bad ways: But on the contrary the Trusci met them some∣times and poured their Shot upon them from all Sides, be∣fore they were aware of it, so that they were but in an ill Condition. Then when the Turks would pursue these Men, they were too quick for them, as being born and bred in these Mountains; so they did only laugh at them, and bid them kiss their Breeches: So the Turks (partly for want of Provision, partly being tired by the steep Roads) were sometimes forced, not without great damage and loss of their Men, to retire again to take better Mea∣sures. Sometimes also the Trusci would stand between the Rocks covered and when they found any of their Enemies appear, chiefly those that endeavoured to climb up the Rocks, they would all of a sudden shoot among them as among a Flock of Pigeons, so that many of them did precipitate themselves and broke their Necks. They would also sometimes decoy the Turks into a good Road and after Eight or Ten Thousand of them were passed, they would with Six Thousand Trusci fall in the Rear of them, to drive them up higher, where others soon did appear that came down upon them: so they surrounded them some∣times, and received them so warmly, that but very few of them came back again to tell what was become of the rest. After this War had continued for about two Months, the Bashaw at last was forced to make a shameful Re∣treat with the Remainder of his Forces, and that so much the sooner because the Winter began to approach, so that it was impossible to endure the Frost and Snow, which occasioned many to die, and the chiefest of them came home sick.

The Trusci pretend to be Christians, and the Posterity of those that some Years ago by Might and Strength re∣covered the Holy Land; so that still to this Day, they have a great Affection for Christians, which those that

travel among them to buy Silks can testifie, whom they treat and entertain very civilly with good Meat and good Wine, yet refuse to take any Money for it: And say, That what God hath given them they are bound to di∣stribute among us Christians. But they hate Mahome∣tans and Jews, and keep very good Intelligence with the Christians of this Country. Yet they themselves are nei∣ther Christians, Turks, Moors nor Jews: For they do not go to Mass, nor any other publick Worship of God: They cry out sometimes to Heaven that God would be pleased to protect them. They also believe, according to the Opinion of Pythagoras, that the Souls of the de∣ceased according to their Merits, transmigrate from one Body into another; That the Soul of a pious Man goeth into a new-born Child, and that of an ill Man into the Body of a Dog or other wild Beast; chiefly if he hath lived very ill. As they believe so they live also. Among them they marry to their nearest Relations, the Brother to his Sister, the Son to his Mother, the Father to the Daughter, and they lie all together at Night, but they will not marry into a strange Family. The Father or the Mother says, Seeing that God hath given me this Child as a Seed unto me, why should I throw it away upon a Stranger? or else, I have a Garden, and God giveth me Flowers in it, is it not reasonable, that I should enjoy them rather than a Stranger? &c. they make use of a great many of these and the like Expressions. They also keep a Yearly Feast with their Wives which then they change one with the other as they please. Else they are not given to stealing, killing, or any such like Crimes (be∣cause they want for nothing) but if any be taken that hath thus transgressed he is executed immediately. So they live in Peace together, and care not for any other Monarch.

The End of the Second Part.

THE THIRD PART OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff's TRAVELS INTO THE Eastern Countries. Wherein is chiefly Treated of the Land of Promise, the City of Jerusalem, and also of several Opinions, Beliefs and Errors of the Turks and Christians.

CHAP. I.

A Short Description of his Departure from Tripoli, a Town of Phenicia in Syria, and how he went from thence to Joppa.

AFter my Return to Tripoli, when I found my self near to the Confines of Canaan, the Land of Promise, promised and given to the Israelites by the Lord of Zebaoth, and considered, that, our long before promised Messias, Lord and Saviour of the

Gentiles, was there, according to the Prophecies of the Prophets, born in Bethlehem of the Virgin Mary, and by the Jews suffered the shameful Death of Crucifixion at Jerusalem on the Mount of Calvaria, and afterwards was laid in the New Tomb of Joseph of Arimathea, that was cut out of a Rock, &c. I found in me a great desire to see these and other the like holy Places: Not that I thought still to find there Christ our Lord, as the two young Men, Peter and John, and the three Maries did, but to exercise my outward Senses in the Contemplation thereof, that I might the more fervently consider with my inward ones his bitter Passion, Death, Resurrection and Ascension, and to appropriate to my self, and to apprehend the better, and to make my own, by Faith▪ and firm Confidence, Christ our Lord himself together with his Heavenly Gifts and Treasures, as he has manifested himself in the Holy Scriptures; wherefore I was fully resolved to look out for Fellow-Travellers, to accompany me in this Jour∣ney, before I returned home again. I staid not long in quest of Company, but quickly met with four Pil∣grims that came out of the Low Countries that had the same intention: there also came to us a Grecian Monk, of the Order of the Carmelites, whom I knew before when he lived with his Master, that I cured of a very dangerous Distemper, and desired to go in company with us. So we agreed together, and bespoke a small Turkish Vessel with eight Oars, by them called Cara∣musala, whereof there were many in the Harbour, that wait constantly for Travellers, Goods and Provi∣sion, to be carried into the Neighbouring Towns and Provinces, vix. to Antiochia, Caramania, anciently call∣ed Cilicia, Cyprus, Baruthi, Caramania, or quite into Egypt. We bought some Bisquets, Cibets, Eggs, Cheese, Pompions, which the Arabians call Baticcas, Margeropfel, Oranges, good Wine, &c. which we had occasion of, for our Journey, of which as much as would last us eight days: for the Ship-Masters, do not willingly land, chiefly with Pilgrims, because of the great Customs the Roguish Turks demand unjustly from us Christians, every where, until we arrive at our de∣signed Stations.

After we had thus fitted our selves, and got a good Wind, we went aboard the Ship on the Seventh of September, in the Year 1575, and put off, and came before Night to the Point Capugio, to the Village Aniffe, anciently called Neuphrus, which was in former Ages very well Fortified, as still appeareth by some Re∣mainders to this Day. This Village is pretty big, but every where open, that one might easily take it with a handful of Men: it is situated on the Foot of Mount Libanus, which is very high there, and reacheth unto the Sea. It is chiefly inhabited by Maronites, as are also many more Villages of this Mountain, chiefly those that lie in Valleys towards Aleppo, where I have inned many times, when I went through it, and was very kindly received: they keep very good Wine by them, which the Turks know very well, and come there very often for it (altho they are forbidden by the Laws of their Mahumetan Alcoran) to satisfie their Desire. These Maronites are Christians, and speak the Arabian Lan∣guage, and have their Patriarchs, which are first cho∣sen by the People, and then confirmed by the Pope. After we had went on from thence very well all Night long, all along the steep mountainous Shore, and had made the utmost Point of the Promontory of Ba∣ruthi, we saw in the morning a far off that famous Town, lying behind it where formerly great Com∣merce has been drove, well fortified with strong Towers towards the Sea, and surrounded with fruitful Orchards and Vineyards. In this, and also in more adjacent Towns and Villages, live a very War-like People, called Trusci, very nimble and expert in shoot∣ing with Guns and Bows, and call themselves the po∣sterity of the ancient French Men, which took and possessed many years agon under Godfrid and Baldwin, Jerusalem and all the Land of Promise. They are still a Free People to this Day, and not subject unto the Great Sultan, as others are; wherefore he hath many times attempted to bring them under his Yoak. And in order thereunto he did send in the Year 1574 last past, a great Army consisting of Two hundred thousand Horse and Foot, to subdue them; but what harm he

did them I have already mentioned in the precedent part of this Journal. They are very willing to accom∣modate and serve Outlandish Christians, as Germans, French Men and Italians, whereof they make no Diffe∣rence, and to take them up into their Habitations, and to shew them all Civility and Kindness: nay, and what is more, to assist them according to their utmost Power against the Common Enemy of Christendom, as we have formerly found indeed, before Cyprus was ta∣ken by the Turks: for after they were informed, that some Italian Gallies were to arrive to make an Incur∣sion into the adjacent Towns and Places, chiefly to plunder Tripoli, they raised Seven thousand Men very well armed to help them, and to come to their Assi∣stance, some of which did then appear and shew them∣selves on the Frontiers: but finding that their Gallies did not arrive, they also returned home again, and left their Design unaccomplished. The Trusci have a Head called Ermin Macksur, that is a judicious Man, and a very experienced Soldier, whom they acknowledge to be their Supreme Governour, and are obedient to him: he liveth in a Castle on the bottom of the Mountain, not far from the Town we went by; he taketh great pains, chiefly now after the Turkish War, and maketh great Provision to keep the Country in Peace and Se∣curity. He also keepeth good Correspondence with the Neighbouring People, chiefly the Maronites, (that have lived long before in these Mountains) with whom he hath lately renewed the old Confederacy again, as I know very well, and their Patriarch himself was with him, before I was called to cure him of his Distemper. He also leaveth no Stone unturned to get in with o∣thers, and to make them his Confederates: so he hath already secured to himself the Syrians (which are also Christians, yet not without gross Errors) by paying to them a yearly Pension. These speak also Arabick, and are very like unto them in Shape, Man∣ners, Fashion and Cloaths; and I sound two of them among our Seamen, that confirmed this to me.

After we had gone on a great while, and were pas∣sed by the Point of the Promontory of Baruti, which

extendeth it self far into the Sea, our Ship-Master (who was a Turk, and understood the Arabian Lan∣guage) shewed me a Village lying beyond it, called Burgi, and told me, that that was also inhabited al∣together by Harani Quibir, that is great Robbers and Murtherers, as they always call these People. But I being better informed before-hand, I prayed by my self that God would be pleased to let the poor Slaves that live in hard Servitude under the Turks, who were these they call Harani: and I do not at all question, but they would soon take their Refuge to them, to make themselves free of their Servitude, as those might easily do, that live about these Countries in Syria.

We saw also upon the Shoar some ancient Towers, and among them chiefly two, which are renewed again, wherein the Trusci keep Watches to observe the Pirates, but the others, whereof there are a great many, not above a League distant from one another, are for the greatest part by Age decayed. Some say that they were for∣merly built by the potent Emperors, that if any Nation should rise up in Rebellion, they might immediately give notice thereof to Constantinople. These gave no∣tice, before Guns were invented, in the Night by a flaming Fire, and by Day-time by a great Smoak. And they still keep to this in many places, altho Guns are now invented.

In the Afternoon we were becalmed, and so our Journey went on but slowly, we saw late at Night a small Village called Carniola upon the height: and soon after at the Foot of the high Mount of Libanus, South∣ward of the City of Sidon, by the Inhabitants still called Scida, which is not very great, but as far as I could see, very well built, and defended by two Castles, one whereof is situated towards the North on a high Rock, the other on a little Hill Those that are going to Sa∣phet, which is a Days Journey distant from it, land there. Before we could reach it, Night befel us, and brought contrary Winds, which hindered us so much, that we could hardly reach the glorious and rich Town of Tyrus, now by the Inhabitants called Sur, which lieth

in a manner close to it, until the next Morning. This is still pretty large, and lieth on a Rock in the Sea, about Five hundred Paces distant from the Shoar of Phenicia. In former Ages Alexander the Great did be∣siege it for Seven Months, and during the Siege he filled up the Streight of the Sea, and did join it to the Continent, and after he had taken it, he laid it into Ashes, so that Punishment was inflicted on the Inhabi∣tants which the Prophet Esaias denounced against them Four hundred years before.

On the Confines of Tirus and Sidon, that Cananean Woman came to Christ on behalf of her Daughter, that was possessed of an unclean Spirit, whereof the Lord, seeing her Faith, did deliver her immedi∣ately.

Just before it we heard a great noise of large run∣ning Springs, which rise within the Country with so great a vehemency, that they drive several Mills. Within a large distance from thence, we saw a very fine new House called Nacora.

Two Miles farther near Mount Saron within, South∣ward, we saw a large Village called Sib, without it in the Sea round about were several Banks and Rocks, behind which we hid our selves, the Wind being con∣trary, and staid for a more favourable one; in the mean while, some of our Men got out among the Rocks to catch Fish, and to find Oisters, where they also gathered so much Sea-salt, that they filled up a great Sack with it.

Between this and Mount Carmelo, which are Eight Leagues distant, and run out a great way into the Seas, lieth almost in the middle thereof, as it were in a Half Moon, the famous Town of Acon, anciently called Ptolemais, on a high Rocky Shoar, which some years ago, when Baldewin, the Brother of Gotefrid, first, and Guidon after him, did possess themselves of the Holy Land, was not without great Loss of many Men taken by them, from Saladine King of the Sara∣cens in Aegypt, which had (after some obtained Victo∣ries) surrendered it self again a second time, after a long Siege. This Town hath very good Fields of a

fertil Soil about it, and is at this time, together with the Land of Promise and others, to the great grief of the Christians) subjected under the Yoak and Slavery of the Turkish Emperor.

The next Day, the Wind favouring us, we hoisted up our Sails, and got out at Sea, with less danger to get before the Point of the Mountain: but our Design was frustrated; for about Noon a contrary Wind a∣rose, which did not only hinder us in our Course, but violently drove us back again, so that we were forced to have recourse to our old Shelter behind the Rocks again. After Midnight, when it began to be calm, and another Wind arose, we put out two hours before Break of Day, and went all along the Shoar towards the Town Hayphe, formerly called Caypha, or Porphyria, Four Leagues beyond Acon, lying just within Mount Carmel, where on the Evening when we came very near it, several Frigats came out of all sides to surround us. As soon as the Master of our Ship perceived them, he did not like it, wherefore he let fall his Sails, and ex∣horted his Men to ply their Oars warmly to get clear of them. When they saw they could not reach us, they left their Design and went back; but we landed without on that Mount Carmelo, to put out again in the Night. This Mountain is very high and famous in Scri∣pture; for we read in the Third Book of the Kings, and the Eighteenth Chapter, that the holy Prophet Elias called before him upon the Hill the People of Israel, the Four hundred and Fifty of Baal's Priests, and and the Four hundred of Hayns, to chide them for their Idolatry: where also God heard him, and con∣sumed his Sacrifice by Fire that came down from Heaven; but the Priests of Baal were not only not heard by their Idols, but kill'd as Idolaters near the River Kison: and also in the Fifth of the Epistle of James: that after the Heavens had been lock'd up for the space of three years and a half, Elias did pray to God on this same Mount, and the Lord heard him, and let Rain fall down upon the dry and barren Earth. From this Mountain, the (presumed) holy Or∣der of the Carmelites taketh its Name, which was first

there endu'd with several Priviledges, by Pope Inno∣cent the Third, and Albert the Patriarch of Jerusalem, in the Year 1205; and afterwards when they were encreased to a great number, under pretence of great∣er Holiness, confirmed by the Name of the Brothers of our Lady, by Pope Honorius the Third, in the Year 1226. These pretend to be Followers of the Do∣ctrine of Cyrillus, wear daily black girded Coats, and over it, when they say Mass, white Monks Habit. Some years ago without doubt, have a great many of this Order lived here about, as still to this day doth appear by their Cloisters and Churches, which by Age are so mightily decay'd, that they are left deserted, and uninhabited. This Mountain is also round about towards the Sea Coast very bare and rough, that we may very well say with the holy Prophet Amos, That the Pastures of the Herdsmen shall look miserably, and the top of the Mountain dry up.

The Town Hayphe lieth at the bottom of the Mount Carmelo, is pretty large, but very ill Built, and the Houses are so decay'd, that half of it is not fit to be Inhabited. Salidinus King of the Saracens, who in his time carried on long and heavy Wars against the Christians, and was almost hardly able to resist them, caused the Walls of it, and also that of Caesarea in Palestina, and others of less strength, to be pull'd down, that his Enemies might not find any place of Reception against him.

Out of this Port (as we are afterwards informed) was a little time before taken away a pretty large and richly Loaden Ship, by some Pirates, which vexed the Inhabitants very much, and being that the Christians chiefly were suspected by them, they had a great de∣sire to revenge it upon them again; so that we, had not our Master been very honest, should have suffer'd for the loss they had sustained.

After we had lain there at Anchor till after Mid∣night, not without danger, as you must imagine, our Master made haste to get out to Sea, although it was very calm, in hopes to get good Weather. After they had wrought very hard, a good Wind arose behind us

towards the Morning, and drove us along, so that we got soon about, and passed the Point of the Mountain, and saw the Country of the other side, which was above on the height so Pleasant, Green and Shady, that there in a Village resides a Turkish Sangiach for Pleasure sake.

Not far from thence lieth the Castle of the Pilgrims in the Sea, by the Inhabitants call'd Altlit, where most of them touch that take their way through Galilaea and Nazareth to Jerusalem. This hath been in former Ages so well Fortify'd with Walls and Bastions, that it was thought to be Impregnable; but now it is on two sides towards the Sea, so demolish'd and de∣stroy'd, that one may very reasonably guess, that it hath been formerly taken by Storm.

The Wind still increasing more and more, we went on with such a swiftness, that although two little Ships persued us towards Morning, yet they were for∣ced to leave us, and so we soon passed the Castle, and came towards Dor, three Leagues distance from thence; it lieth near Mount Carmel in the Country of Phoenicia, as Josephus testifieth; and it is so decay'd that there is nothing more extant, than a large and high Tower, which the Inhabitants still call Dortaite. In this Coun∣try, when the Jews took Canaan the Land of Promise, they let the Inhabitants remain, as you may read in the first Chapter of the Judges.

At a League distance from thence, you see the An∣cient and Famous Town Caesarea of Palestine, situated on the Sea on a high Bank, which King Herod did re∣new, and call'd it after the Emperor Caesarea, which still to this day, among the Turks and Moors, retaineth its ancient Name Kaesarie. In this Town did live the Pious Centurion Cornelius, who was Baptiz'd there with his whole Family by Peter the Apostle (who was called thither from the Town Joppe): There did also live Philip the Evangelist (one of the seven Deacons) into whose House the Holy Apostle Paul did go, and staid there some days; where also the Prophet Agabus did foretel him, That he was to be made a Prisoner at Jerusalem. Now although this Town in those days

was very well built, as one may still see by the im¦portant and stately Antiquities that are still remaining there, yet now in our times it is in Walls and Buildings so mightily decay'd, that it is hardly fit to be Inhabited, much less to be Defended, or to make any Resistance. And for all that it is still pretty large, but so lonesom, and depopulated, that we could hardly see any body in the large and broad Streets thereof as we passed by.

For some Leagues before, or about it, I saw nothing remarkable, only a Turkish Mosque, or Church, in the height upon a hilly shore, where tbey meet to Worship their Mahumet.

When the Evening broke in, we had still 10 Leagues to Sail to the Port or Harbor of Joppe (where the Pil∣grims use to go ashore to Travel by Land to Jerusalem) yet the Wind drove us on with such a force, that we got into it two hours after Sun-set.

CHAP. II.

A short Relation of my Travels by Land from the Harbor of Joppe, to the City of Je∣rusalem.

IN the Morning early as soon as the day did appear, which was the 13th day of September 1575, we got on shore, and dispatched immediately some to the Town of Rama, two Leagues distant from thence, to get us a safe Conduct, or Pass, from the Sangiach, and to bring along with them some Mockeri, or Ass-driving Carriers, to provide us Carriage to Jerusalem. In the mean while we stay'd upon the high Rocky shore, where the Town Joppe did stand formerly, which at this time was so Demolish'd, that there was not one House to be found, where the Pilgrims at their arrival could shelter themselves, save only three large Vaults, which went very deep into the Hill, and extended

themselves towards the Sea. Into these are sometimes the Pilgrims let in, but being that at that time, a great deal of Corn was laid up there, whereunto they still daily added, on purpose to supply Constantinople during the scarcity, it was forbidden that any Body should be let in.

The Town Joppe, by the Inhabitants call'd Japha, is by its old Name very well known to us, by the Books of the Prophets and Apostles, &c. where we Read. That the Prophet Jonas (when the Lord bid him to Preach to the Ninevites Desolation and Destruction) for fear did retire thither, and there took Ship, where he was thrown out into the Seas in the great Storm and Tempest, and swallow'd up by a great Fish; and after he had been there for three Days and Nights he was vomited out again. And we read also in the Acts of the Apostles, in the 9th and 10th Chapter, from Peter the Apostle, That he lay (or tarry'd) for a while at the House of Simon the Tanner, where he raised the Sister Tabitha from the Dead, &c.

Joppe at that time was very well Built and Fortify'd, which doth appear, because a good many of the Jews did, at the time of the Desolation of Jerusalem, retire thither, to defend themselves against the Might of the Romans, although it was but in vain; for being that the time of the punishment, that was to befal them, was at hand, the City therefore was two several times one after another, besieged and taken, and demolish'd, and as Josephus testifieth, about 12600 Jews were killed in it. We also read, That after the time of Gotfrid de Boullion, when the Christians lost again the Land of Promise, that then this Town also was retaken again by the Infidels, and razed to the Foundations; so that now there are no Antiquities at all to be seen. And I should have doubted very much whether there did ever stand such a Town there, had not I seen some large pieces of the Ancient Town Walls still remaining, which are so near to the Sea, that there is hardly room to go at the outside of them.

Hard by this I suppose was the Habitation of Simon the Tanner, where Peter sojourned, because the Evan∣gelist St. Luke saith, That it was near to the Sea shore.

Above it on the height stand two Towers, where some Watchmen attend to look after the Vaults and Ships in the Harbor, that they may not be assaulted by the Pirates; this Harbor, although it is surrounded with Rocks and Banks, yet it is but very slightly secu∣red, and very narrow and shallow, so that Ships of any great bulk, or heavy Laden, cannot ride in it.

Near to them growth the Hemerocallis, which I have also found about Montpelier and Aigemort near to the Sea. And also in the adjacent Moist and Mashy Mea∣dows, I found a delicate kind of Limonium which hath about ten or twelve Aspleniun or Ceterach Leaves on both sides; these proceed from a long Root of a brown colour without, and red within; between them sprout out two three-square Stalks, about a Cubit high, with a great many Joints, that have three long small Leaves, and are adorned at the top with beautiful and stately blue and purple coloured Flowers; they are of a dry∣ish Nature, and the Inhabitants use to eat them in Sallads.

Presently after Dinner our Men returned, and brought along with them the Pass and the Carriers; our Master of the Ship left some of the Crew in his Caramusala to look after it in our absence: We Mount∣ed and went away, and came soon into the plain Fields where Jonathas slew Apollonius the Captain, as is said in the 1st of Maccabees the 10th Chapter.

Soon after we saw a pleasant Village call'd Jasura, and when we came a little nearer, a Camp of a great Turkish Lord, who sent (as soon as he espy'd us on the Road, and found that we were Pilgrims) some of his Men to us, to call us before him, and also to tell us, That he was one of them to whom the Grand Sultan had given Charge of the Temple, and the Mount Calva∣ria, with strict order to let no Pilgrim in before they had paid a certain sum of Money. So we went along with them, and appeared before him in his Tent, put

our Right Hand on our Breast, bended our selves for∣wards, and made him (according to their Custom) his Compliments. After he had look'd upon us a great while, he bid his Men to receive the Money of us; so each of us paid him Nine Ducats that had their full weight, except the Grecian who paid only Five, and at their Request we staid with them all Night, because their Master intended to send a Janizary with us the next day, to let us into the Temple. This Lord, who was an Eunuch, had a great many Offices; for in these Countries they are by the great ones, as Bashaws, Sangi∣achs, Cadees, &c. so much esteemed, that in their absence they make them Stewards over all their Goods and Chattels, Wives and Children, &c.

At that time he was there to gather great quantity of Corn from these fruitful Countries, it being Har∣vest time, and to send it from thence to Joppe, to go by Sea for Constantinople.

After Midnight we mounted again, and came early in the Morning to the Town Rama, and went into the House of the Pilgrims, which Philip Duke of Bur∣gundy bought, and gave it to the Pilgrims as their Inn. This is very large, and hath a great many Arched Chambers within, and a fine Well; within the Inner Court is a pretty large place, all grown over with green Aloes, the Juice whereof is brought over to us in large pieces, from the Eastern Countries, and is ve∣ry useful in many tedious Distempers: Nicodemus did also bring with him, (together with) Myrrh to the quantity of 100 pounds, to the Grave of Christ our Lord, to Bury his Body decently according to the Jewish fashion, as you may read in the 19th Chapter of St. John. Here we staid almost three days, and had all along enough to do to agree with the Cadi Suba∣shaw Clerks, Janizaries and Paityfs, &c. about our free passage; so Unjust, Malicious, and Infidel a Peo∣ple are they, that one would hardly believe it.

The Town is situated on an Ascent in plain Fields, as is before said, which extend themselves for two Leagues to the Hill of the City of Jerusalem. These Fields are very Fruitful, and very well Tilled and Sown

with Corn, Cotton, and Indian Millet. Hereabouts do also grow Indian Muskmelions in great quantity, by the Arabians called Batiere, which are very pleasant and well tasted, chiefly those that are red within: so that in all my Travels I hardly met with the like.

The Town is pretty large, but very open like unto a Village, very pityfully built, where one may still see here and there some signs of old Building,

From thence Northwards within half a League lieth the Town Diospolis, formerly called Lidda, where Peter did visit the Saints, and cured one named Aeneas, that had had a Palsie for Eight Years. Nothing else is to be seen there, but the Church of St. George, whom the Turks chiefly honour, as a Knigt and Hero, before all other Saints. After they had quite tired us, during this time, with their continual Impertinencies, we agreed with them, and went away early in the Morning, and came in good time over the Plain, to the Mountain of the City of Jerusalem, to which we had still Four Leagues to travel. By the way there appeared pre∣sently on the Mountains several Arabians, and ran be∣fore us in great Clusters to cut us off in our way, with such violence, that we were almost forced to come to our defence, and to push through them by force: for our Janizaries had already flung their Iron Club into the Back-side of one of them, and had almost spoiled him. When they found us to be in earnest, they took something to drink of us, and let us alone. So we must, before we arrived at the old destroyed and ruinated Jerusalem, (where there is no Joy nor Hopes to get any thing, as is in the Heavenly One) soon one after another pay them, just like Boys that have lost their Game, and run the Gauntlet.

After we had endured all these Brushes, we went on, and came to the middle of the way of the Mountains, where it was very rough and stony, into a small Vil∣lage called Anatoth, lying on a heigth, where we rested a little, and watered our Beasts at a very rich Spring, that runs through it by an ancient little Church down the Hill; this is situated (as Josephus writes in his Tenth Book and Tenth Chapter of his Antiquities, or

ancient History) within Twenty Furlongs of Jerusa∣lem. There was born the holy Prophet Jeremias, as you may see in his First Chapter: and it is also called by Esaias a pitiful Village, which, together with the Town Rama, did formerly belong to the Inheri∣tance of the Children of Benjamin. Thither went also Abiathar, when King Solomon did depose or ex∣clude him from his Priesthood, to live on his own Ground. A little before it they shewed us at the top of the heigth or Silo, of Mount Ephraim, some Re∣licts of the Grave of the holy Prophet Samuel (where we could look about for several Leagues round) which was of Rama••ha, or Arimathea, as also Joseph the Just whom helped to take Christ down from the Cross▪ and did put him into his own new Grave. The Town was underneath the Mountain where the Pro∣phet Samuel was buried at first, but carried up to Silo, after the Town was taken.

Just when you come to Jerusalem, Nicopolis lieth on the Left Hand upon the Heighth, formerly called Emmaus, from Jerusalem Threescore Furlongs distant, as the Scripture telleth us: whither Christ did accom∣pany the two Disciples, and explained the Scriptures to them, and at last made himself known to them. We left it and went up to Jerusalem, which is now called Gotz by the Arabians and Turks. The Road is very rough and rocky; so that we saw very little, but on each side in the Valleys many delicate large Olive Trees, and some few Vineyards.

The City lieth on the heighth of the Mountains, as the 125th. Psalm testifieth. It is not to be seen, until you come over the bare and rough Mountains inter∣cepting the Prospect of it on this side.

Just before it without, on the top of Mount Gihon, are to be seen still some Antiquities of the Town Helia, which Adrian the Emperor built after the Desolation of Jerusalem, and called it after his own Name Helia. This was first taken by Cosröe, King of Persia, in the time of the Emperor Heraclius (who did overcome him again) and afterwards by Homar the Third King of the Saracens, who demolished it; afterwards it was

more contracted, and somewhat built again in its old place. In these days it is, as well as all that Country, under the Dominion of the Turkish Emperor.

Before it we dismounted, for no outlandish Man hath permission to ride into their Towns, and went under the Gate Hebron, to stay there for the Father Guardian, to whom we had, by one of our Carriers given notice of our Arrival, and also desired him to get us License from the Sangiach to come in. In the mean time some Mendicant Friars came out of the Monastery, and re∣ceived us very kindly. Soon after the Ermin came also riding, with his Clerk, and asked us from whence we came, how many there were of us, and what our Names were. And after they had written it down, and every one had paid him his due (to have safe con∣duct to see the holy Places) the Ermin promised it us, and put his Right Hand upon his Head, (which is the fashion in these Countries) and bended forwards to let us know that we might confide in his Promise. Then they let us pass, and the Friars conducted us in, to∣wards the Left Hand, through some small Streets or Lanes, into the Monastery, which is behind on the Town-Wall towards the West.

This, although it is not large and spacious, yet is it very handsom, and strong-built: we went into lodge there as all Pilgrims do that come there, where Father Jeremy of Brixen, a Brother of the Order of the Mi∣norites of St. Francis, a Guardian of the holy Mount Zion, (which had been President of this Monastery of Jerusalem, and of the other of Bethlehem for Eighteen Years together) received us very kindly. There are but very few Monks in it, and they are of all sorts of Nations, as Italians, Spaniards, French and Germans, yet of the last named I found not one when I arrived there. These lead the Pilgrims about, together with an Interpreter, or Truschemant, that understands the Arabian and Turkish Language, and shew them the holy Places as well within as without the City. But before we went out the Father Guardian admonished us, that we must have a care, and not go to the Graves of the Heathens, which are almost throughout

Turkey without the Towns, near to the Highways: for if one or more should, before he was aware of it, which may easily happen, go to them, the Turks would be very much offended at it, partly because they take any one that is not circumcised, to be unclean, and so they fear that they might make them also unclean: partly because they are very jealous of their Wives, wherefore they permit them not easily to walk or ap∣pear in the open Street, except they have a mind to go into the Bath or Pagnio, or to visit the Graves of their deceased Parents or Relations: and where Women are present, every one had best to come away, to avoid Danger.

After he had said this, he went on saying, That if any should be among us, that were come over the Sea hither, that could not bring very good proof, that they did appear before his Holiness the Pope at Rome, and were there absolved by him, that such were in his Holinesses Excommunication, and therefore could not be admitted to see those holy Places, much less obtain the Indulgences, which in former Ages had been left with them, out of great kindness of the Popes, to be distributed among the Pilgrims, wherefore he desired, that every one might shew him their Certificates. All these Points he used to propound to every one that cometh there, in course, as I had heard before of se∣veral that had been there formerly; that they were very glad to see Pilgrims arrive, and that they used to shew the holy Places to them also that bring no Recom∣mendation from his Holiness the Pope, hoping, that they will recompense them at their Departure. Where∣fore I did not much mind this Excommunication, but let that remain in its ancient Credit: but my Com∣rades, two whereof were Priests that used to say Mass, were very much astonish'd at it, and full of Trouble, that they should be under his Holiness's Ex∣communication before they were aware of it: where∣fore they began to excuse themselves, and said, That they did not know any thing of it, neither had they had any opportunity in their Travels to come to Rome: But although this had been omitted before their Arri∣val,

yet they would certainly do it as they went back. Notwithstanding all this the Guardian seemed to be very earnest, and made shew as if he could not absolve them; yet at last, after he had long enough kept them in this fear, he began to declare, that he had also re∣ceived full power from his Holiness and the whole Roman Catholic Church, to absolve all those that did not bring any Certificates. And so at last absolved us in the Cloisters of his Monastery in Latin with these Words: I absolve you of all your Sins in the Name of the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost. And with this he concluded his Speech.

CHAP. III.

A Plain Description of the City of Jerusalem, as it was to be seen in our time: and of the adjacent Countries.

THE Glorious and Kingly City of Jerusalem (which formerly the Saracens called Kurzitadon, but now is named Chutz, by the Inhabitants) is still situated in the old Place, in the middle of Judea on the high Mountains, and as the Head is extolled above the rest: which may be concluded, partly because from thence you may see all the the Country as from a Center: partly also because the Springs rise here, and so run down, as from a higher place, every way and to every part thereof; as the holy Prophet Eze∣kiel doth testifie in his Fourteenth Capter, where he saith: That at that time fresh Streams shall flow from Jerusalem, half thereof to the Sea toward the East, and the other half towards the furthest Sea.

There are also many other places of Scripture, that * 1.43 testifie the high Situation of Jerusalem, as in the Eighth Chapter of the Acts, Verse 26. where the Angel of the Lord spake unto Philip, saying: Arise and go towards the South, unto the way that goeth down from Jerusalem unto Gaza, &c. And in the Tenth Chapter of St. Mark, and the Thir∣ty second Verse: And they were in the way going up to Jerusalem. And the Tenth Chapter of St. Luke, Verse 30. A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho. And Verse 31. And by chance there came down a certain Priest that way, &c.

The Situation of Jericho, together with the great Plains thereabout, through which the Jordan runs from the North towards the South, together with the Dead Sea, where formerly Sodom and Gomorrah stood, you see from the Town, over a barren Hill, below so plainly, that one would think we might go thither with ease in three Hours, and yet it would require a whole Days Journey. Beyond the River that separateth A∣rabia from Judea, lie the high Hills Abarim and Nebo over against Jericho, whence Moses, (as is said Deutero∣nomy the 32d. and 34th. Chapters) had a full Prospect of the Land of Canaan, promised to Abraham, Isaac and Jacob; one may see them thence so plainly, as also the Mount Seir, which toucheth them beyond the Dead Sea, in the Land of the Moabites and Ammonites, that one would also think they were very near.

They bring yearly a vast quantity of Sheep to Je∣rusalem from off the Mountains, which feeding upon the fragrant, delicate and hearty Herbs that grow there, have Meat that tastes very pleasantly, the Tails thereof are very fat, above half a span thick, and one and a half broad and long. The Levitical Priest (as we read in Leviticus the Ninth Chapter, and other places) used to burn this together with all the Fat of the Entrails, and the two Kidneys for a Sin-Offering.

There are also Goats, with hanging Ears, almost Two Foot long. And therefore some Arabians, called Balduini keep in the Deserts, that have no certain A∣bode, but lie continually in the Fields, and go from Country to Country in great numbers, wheresoever they find good Pasture for their Beasts and Camels. I have met with many of them in my Travels, and have some time stayed with them all Night in their Tents, they are commonly Soldiers armed usually with Bows and Long-Pikes made of Cane, as the other Arabians, and because of their Nimbleness and Courage they are very much preferred before the rest.

This holy Land (which, according to the Promise made to the Patriarchs, was for many years in the possessi∣on of the Israelites) was (as you read in Deuteronomy, Chap. 8.) a most fruitful and rich Country, abounding with Corn, Fruits, Wine and all that is required to the maintenance of Man's Life. So the Lord himself saith, That he will give them a Land, that still floweth with Milk and Honey. For it hath rich Valleys, Hills, Fields, and Gardens, richly adorned with Fountains and Trees▪ so that it was very well chosen to be the worldly Paradise, wherein Adam and Eve did live, honor and serve God. Now as the Land in its Good∣ness surpassed other Lands, so did Jerusalem excel all other Cities in Building, Glory, Fortification, and Number of Inhabitants. Moreover God visited the Israelites from the beginning, and had a House built in this City for himself, which he chose before all others to sanctifie his Name there. And above all this he pro∣vided them with High Priests, Kings and Prophets, until God the Father did send his only Begotten Son,

our Lord Jesus Christ in the Flesh, to reveal to them his Will with Teaching and Miracles.

But when they would not acknowledge his merciful Visitation, nor receive his Messengers, but did rather abuse, ridicule, and kill them, rejected the Lord of Glory himself, and adhered to, and adored strange Gods, and served them; God did reject and disperse them a∣mong the Heathens burnt and destroyed their City and Temple, and reduced their fruitful Country into bar∣ren Desarts, and a desolate Wilderness, and so the Pu∣nishment came upon them, which the holy Prophet Esaiah did foretel them in the Thirteenth Chapter, and 9th. Verse, saying, Behold the day of the Lord cometh, cruel both with wrath and fierce anger, to lay the land desolate; and he shall destroy the sinners thereof out of it. And further in the Twenty fifth Chapter, and Second Verse, Thou hast made of a City a heap; of a defenced City a ruine; a place of Strangers to be no City, it shall never be built. And Daniel also maketh mention of this in his Ninth Chapter, &c. This ought to serve us and all Men as an Example of the fervent Anger of God, to be a warning to us for ever. For if of the Glorious City of Jerusalem, which God had chosen before others, and of its vast Buildings, that made her famous before her Desolation, there is at this Day nothing at all to be seen, so that one might very well doubt, whether it ever stood there, were it not for some holy places, and its situa∣tion, that give us demonstration thereof. If I say this worldly Jerusalem, because of its unbelieving Inhabi∣tants, that would not acknowledge the Blessed Messias, nor adhere to his Doctrine to their Salvation, is quite rooted out; and instead thereof, the way of the Hea∣venly Jerusalem opened to us Heathens, by the holy Apostles: How shall we escape if we neglect so great sal∣vation? This way to our Lord Christ, hath for many years past, been shewed us sincerely by the Ministers of the holy Word of God, but we do not only, not much care for it, but seek rather other by ways, that lead us to Idolatry, Sin and Vices nay, to our utter ruine. Wherefore it is to be feared, that if we do not repeat in time, and return to God again, that he will come

upon us with his wrath (as he hath already begun) and deliver us up into the Hands of our Adversaries, that we may fall by their Swords (as Ezekiel doth threaten us in his Thirty ninth Chapter,) and to punish us according to the Deserts of our Sins. Wherefore we ought to lay to heart the terrible Example of the Jews, and turn from our evil ways, that we may avoid the Punishments that befel them. We see that those who were formerly the People of God, are now come to be so blind, and full of Errors, and of so depraved a Life, that there is hardly any like them to be found even among the Infidels and Impious. Wherefore they are by all Men despised and hated, chiefly by the Turks (which hate them more than any other Nation) so that they would not let them live among them, if the Turkish Emperor had not for a great Sum of Money given them a peculiar freedom. And besides all this, now adays, their Towns and Countries are inhabited by Turks, Moors, and Arabians, that do not love to till or cultivate the Ground, but will rather starve, than take pains to get a good Livelihood by their Hand-Labour. And although the Country about Jerusalem is very rocky, rough, stony, and ill managed, yet notwith∣standing they will not endeavour to mend and improve it, but find out the fruitful Lands that are here and there, and over-run the Country like Grashoppers, so that you may observe it yearly to decay more and more. Seeing then that there is but little Tillage about the City, therefore the product of the Earth there is but very small, so that they must have almost all Ne∣cessaries brought them from other places.

The Town of Jerusalem which is still pretty large; but very ill built, hath within its Walls (which the Turkish Emperor caused to be built about Twenty Years ago) large places that lie desolated, and are so full of Stones and Rocks, that one can hardly walk in them. The Gardens (even those that are within the City, and are but ill managed) are surrounded with Mud Walls, not above Four Foot high, so that one may climb over them without any difficulty. These are washed down again by Rain in a very little time, so that they want mending continually.

Their Habitations are also little and and low, have Clay-Walls, and many of them are decayed, some lie quite in a heap. The Churches of the two Apostles, that of St. John and St. Peter are in the same Con∣dition, as also the Prison where St. Peter was kept, the Habitation of Veronica (which the Cordeliers shew us for them) and a great many places more. In some Streets chiefly near to their Bazar, or Exchange, are very old Vaults, part whereof are decayed and broken, part filled up with Dust, which runs out into the Streets: wherefore (chiefly in the Summer) the Dust lieth so thick in them, that you may see every step in it, as in Snow or Sand.

All which sheweth, that the Turks destroy or ruin more than they build; wherefore they are deservedly called Turks, that is to say, Destroyers. The present Town, as to the Extent of its Walls, is not much less than the old one was, wherefore one should admire, considering how it is built now, how it was possible it should hold so many People as it is said were in it at the time of its Desolation, viz. a Million of Men, or as Josephus and Eusebius say, Three Millions. Jerusa∣lem was formerly surrounded with very steep Cliffs, deep Ditches and Valleys, chiefly on three Sides, to∣wards the South, East and West, so that one could not easily get up to it but only on the North Side, where the Town was low, lying in a Plain: therefore did Titus first attack it in a place near the Village called Scapas, Seven Miles distant from it, and afterward ad∣vanced and took it: which the holy Prophet Jeremiah did foretel many years before, in the First Chapter and Twelfth Verse, saying, Out of the North an Evil shall break forth upon all the Inhabitants of the Land.

These Ditches and Valleys are now quite filled up with the Ruins of the broken Walls and Buildings, so that one may go into the Town, as into an open Vil∣lage, without any hinderance or pain. But when the Grand Signior, after he had taken it, saw that the Town was open, and that the Christian Pilgrims came thither in great numbers from all places and Countries, he feared that they might make themselves Masters of

it again, as they had done some years agone, wherefore he ordered it to be surrounded again with new Walls, which although they are very high, yet they are so thin and slight, that they are not able to withstand the least violence. But as the Town was anciently built four square, so it is now built more round, chiefly to∣wards Mount Calvaria, which formerly was without the Town, but now is Walled in; so that you may still see two corners, one whereof is towards Galilee, where the Gate of that corner is, which is still open, and al∣most one of the handsomest, through which you go to Nazareth, distant three days Journey; as also to Caesa∣rea Philippi, which is now called Balbec, where still are to be seen some very fine Antiquities; and also to∣wards Damascus, which is six days Journey distant from Jerusalem, and from thence 6 days Journey more to Aleppo, the greatest Town for Trade in all Syria. Jeremiah maketh mention of this Gate in his 31st Chapter and the 38th Verse, Behold the days come, saith the Lord, that the City shall be built to the Lord, from the Town of Hananeel unto the gate of the corner. And also Zacharias, in his 14th Chapter, and in the 2d Book of Chronicles, the 26th Chapter, and 9th Verse; It is said Ʋzzia built Towers in Jerusalem, at the Corner-Gate, and at the Valley-Gate, &c. The second corner Mount Zion maketh, where it doth end toward the South, whereon, as also on the Mount Mo∣riah, the City is rising towards the North. The old City had twelve Gates, as you read in the Revelation. The 1st, the Fish-gate, which was also called the Gate of Hebron, because the Road of Hebron went through it, which is about seven or eight hours walking distant from it. 2. The Old-Gate. 3. The Prison Gate, whereof Nehemiah maketh mention in his 12th Chap∣ter, through which our Saviour Christ carried his Cross. 4. Rayn-Gate. 5. The Gate of Ephraim, before which St. Stephen was Stoned to Death, as you may read in the 2d Book of the Ecclesiastical History in the 1st Chapter. 6. The Gate of Benjamin, where the holy Prophet Jeremiah was taken and Imprisoned, as he saith himself in the 37th Chapter. 7. Corner Gate,

8. Horse-Gate. 9. Valley-Gate, through which they went into the Valley of Josaphat. 10. Dung Gate, through which the Water carried out all the Soil into the Valley of Josaphat; and about this River is still to this day a great stink. 11. Sheep-Gate. 12. Foun∣tain-Gate, which is now Walled up. The Prophet Nehemiah maketh mention of them, in his 3d, 8th, and 12th Chapter, so that it is not needful to say any more. These Gates are so mightily decayed, that there is not to be seen the least of the old Buildings. The Turks have instead of them, built others in the New raised Wall, but yet not half so many in number, whereof some (according as the Town is enlarged in some places, and contracted in others) are displaced; others are erected again in the same places, according to the Old Streets, viz. 1. The Fish-Gate, which is still standing towards the West behind Mount Sion, and over against Mount Gihon, as you may conclude out of the words of the 2d Book of Chronicles, in the 33d Chapter, and 14th Verse. Manasses built a Wall without the City of David, on the West-side of Gihon, in the Valley even to the entring in at the Fish-Gate. This Gate hath its Name, because they brought many Fishes from the Sea-side through this Gate into the Ci∣ty. So is also still standing, on the outside of the Val∣ley Tiropaeon (which distinguished the two Mounts, Si∣on, and the Temple Mount called Moriah) the Gate of the Fountain, which hath its Name because it leadeth towards the Fountain of Siloha, which Nehe∣miah in his 2d Chapter, Verse 14, calleth the Kings Pool. Through this was our dear Lord Christ, the true promised Siloha, brought a Prisoner bound from the Mount of Olives, over the Brook Kidron, into the House of Hannas and Caiphas in the upper Town, as we read in the 12th Chapter, Verse 37. that by the Fountain-Gate they went up to the City of David. The same way also the two Disciples, Peter and John, were sent to bespeak the Paschal Lamb, by Christ, where they met the Man with the Pitcher of Water.

The Sheep, or Beast-Gate, is also still standing by Moriah, the Mountain of the Temple, which the Turks

have taken to themselves, and have built on it a Turkish Mosque, or Temple, because that God Almighty hath done many and great Miracles on this Mount; and besides Mahumet did find himself again on this Mount, after he had been carried up (as his lying Writings tell us) through the Heavens before God by the Angel Gabriel. Wherefore they take this Mount to be Holy, so that none that is not Circumcised, and so Unclean, dare approach or come near it, nor take the nearest way without, over the height of the Mount, as Nehe∣miah did, as you may see in the before quoted place; so that the Christians must take a further way about, and from the Gate Siloha, go below through the Val∣ley of the Brook Cedron, between this and the Mount of Olives, to the Beast-Gate, which hath its Name be∣cause the Beasts that were to be offer'd in the Temple were driven through it.

Near the Gate you see still the Sheep-pond, which is large and deep, yet hath but little Water in it, where∣in the Nathineens used to wash the Beasts, and then to give them to the Priests. And also immediately with∣in towards the North a Conduit, which was the Pool by St. John the Evangelist, in the 2d Verse of his 5th Chapter, called Bathesda, erected by King Ezechia; that had five Porches, wherein lay a great multitude of impotent folk, that waited for the moving of the Water. Through this Gate is the straight way over the Brook Cedron, by the Mount of Olives toward Bethania, down to Jericho, on the River Jordan, into the Valley of Josaphat, wherefore this also (being nearer now in these days) is called the Valley-gate.

There is also still the Corner-gate in its old place, where the North and East Walls meet on large and high Rocks, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 called still by some the Gate of Naphthali.

This I thoug•• convenient to say of the City of Je∣rusalem in the g••ner•• of its Buildings, Fruitfulness, and adjacent Countries; what Famous and Holy Pla∣ces are within and without the City, thereof I intend to treat in particular.

CHAP. IV.

Of Mount Sion, and its Holy Places.

MOunt Sion, very famous in holy Scripture, hath round about it steep sides, high Rocks, deep Ditches and Valleys, so that it is not easie to climb up to it, only on one side towards the North, where it buts upon the lower Town, so that the Castle and Town of David, situated on it, was very strong, and almost Invincible, as you may read in the 48 Psalm, vers. 2. The joy of the whole earth is Mount Sion, on the sides of the north, the City of the great King. God is known in her places for a refuge, for the Kings were assem∣bled, &c. Seeing then that the Castle, and the upper Town Millo, vvas so vvell fortified vvith Tovvers and Walls that it vvas not easily to be taken, the Jebu∣sites (after that Canaan the vvhole Land of Promise, to∣gether vvith the Tovvn of Jerusalem vvas taken) did de∣fend themselves in it against the vvhole force of Israel for a long time, although they often attempted to take it, and called the Tovvn of Jerusalem after their Name Jebus, until the Kingly Prophet David came, vvho took it by force; and after he had rebuilt the upper Tovvn, and joined the Castle vvith it into one Build∣ing, and surrounded it vvith Walls, he called it after his ovvn Name, The City of David, and kept his Court there, and gave also Lodgings to his Hero's and Officers, vvhereof Ʋriah vvas one, vvho had his Lodg∣ings near to the Kings Palace, vvherein the King vvalk∣ing on the Roof of his House, savv the fair Bathsheba his Wife, and committed Adultery vvith her.

These their Habitations, as they are still built in these Days, have instead of Thatch or Tiles, plaister'd Roofs, so that one may walk on them, as you may see here, that King David walked on it. And also in the Second Chapter of the Book of Joshua, where is said,

That when the Two Spies, sent into the Land of Pro∣mise to Jericho, came into Rahab's House, and the King sent to search after them, they went at her request up to the Roof of the House, where she hid them with the Stalks of Flax, which she had laid in order upon the Roof. But seeing there is nothing so strong in in this World that is not transitory, therefore is also this Worldly Mount Zion, together with its strong Building and Fortification (which was rather a Type of the true Rock in Zion, Christ our Lord, and his Heavenly Kingdom, and Holy Church that was built thereon) so ruined and desolated, that the greatest and highest part thereof before the Town, (except a Turkish Mosche, some Tile Houses and a few Acres of it) lieth quite like a Desart, covered with Rocks and Stones. So it is come to pass, what Micah in his Third Chapter and the Twelfth Verse predicted: Therefore shall Zion for your sake be plowed as a field, and Jerusalem shall be∣come heaps, and the mountain of the house, as the high places of the forest. And Jeremiah in his Lamentations, Cap. 5. Verse 18. saith, The mountain of Zion, which is desolate, the foxes walk upon it. And Isaiah in his Thirty second Chapter, Verse 14. The Palaces shall be for∣saken, the multitude of the City shall be left, the forts and towers shall be dens for ever, a joy of wild asses, a pa∣sture of flocks.

The great Castle of the Turks is situated at the top of the inward part of the Mount, towards the West Side near the Fishgate, which is also newly built, and very well surrounded with Walls and Ditches: under the Gate are several great Guns to frighten the Chri∣stians that come thither in great Flocks, chiefly against great Feasts from all Nations, Armenians, Georgians, Abyssins, Latinists, &c. for they fear that else the Town might be taken from them again.

Within the Fort near the Fishgate, is still a strong high Tower, built up with great Free-stone, which is quite black through Age: wherefore some say, that it did anciently belong to the Fort, and was built by one of the Kings of Juda.

So much I thought convenient to mention of Mount Zion, concerning other famous places that are to be seen upon and about it, I will only mention the chiefest thereof.

First as you go out of the New Gate of Mount Zion, there is a long Street wherein on the Left Hand is an ancient Church, of the holy Apostle James the Greater, Brother of John, which Helena the Mother of Constantine the Emperor, as also many more, did build on the Market Place of the upper City where he was beheaded. The Armenians that have possession thereof, did conduct us into it, shewed us the Building, and the place where the holy Apostle was beheaded with the Sword (as you read in the Acts of the Apostles, the 12th. Chapter) by Order of Herod Agrippa, to whom he was delivered out of spite, as a seditious person, by the High Priest Abiathar.

Then we came to the place of the Habitation of Hannas, whereto Christ our Lord was first of all brought a prisoner, and bound (or fetter'd) wherein was nothing observable, only a large Court, and in it an old Chapel, called the Angels, which we soon left, and went out of the Gate of Mount Zion, to the Habitation of Cayaphas, where we saw an Orange-tree planted in the place where the holy Apostle Peter did warm himself when he denied our Saviour the third time: further with∣in a Chapel, called St. Salvators, where, in former A∣ges was the Place of the High Priest, where Christ was severely accused by Cayaphas, and by his Servants mocked, spit upon, and beaten; wherein is an Altar, whereon the great Stone of the Grave still lieth, that stopped the Door of the Sepulchre, which is very like unto the Rock of the Grave in its breaking. That the Habitation of the High Priest was in the upper City Josephus does testifie in the Seventeenth Chapter of his Second Book of the Desolation of Jerusalem, where he saith thus: When the rebellious Jews, that had the lower Town in possession with the Temple, did undertake to possess themselves also of the upper Town, they did assault it with all might and power, and at last take it; then they drove out the Soldiers, which had the Chief Priests and

Men in power with them, out of the upper Town, set the Habitation of Ananias the High Priest on fire and burnt it.

Before this on the top of the Mount, stands on the Plain a large Church, which the Franciscan Monks had not long ago in possession, and lived in it, wherefore their Father did call himself a Guardian of the holy Mount Zion. But after that the Turks did about Twenty years agon possess themselves of it, and kept it to themselves, and made a Mahumetan Mosche of it; the Monks were forced to flie, and take the Habitation where they now live instead thereof.

Of this Church or Mosche we saw only the out∣side of the Habitation of Caiaphas, for no Christian is allowed to go into it. It was built many years agon by Helena, Mother of Constantin the Emperor, as Ni∣cephorus testifieth in the Thirtieth Chapter of his Eighth Book: wherein is also included the Habitation the Di∣sciples were locked up in for fear of the Jews: and al∣so the paved Dining-Room (or Hall) wherein Christ with his Disciples did eat the Passover; where he also washed their Feet, and sent the Holy Ghost after his Ascension to them: where al∣so * 1.44 James the Lesser was E∣lected Overseer, and first Bi∣shop of Jerusalem. In this Temple (which is above a thousand paces distant from Golgotha, or the place of a Scull) was for some time kept the Stone-Pillar, whereto Christ our Lord and Saviour was tied and whipped. Near unto this, in the place of the Palace of Caiaphas, the same Queen Helena ordered a Church to be built for the Holy Apostle Peter, and many more, whereof mention is made at large in the above quoted place.

This Mount extendeth its self towards the South, out before the City, and hath on the other side where it is highest, other higher ones about it, distinguished with Ditches and Valleys, viz. towards the West Mount Gihon, at the bottom whereof Solomon was

anointed King by the Priest Zadock and the Prophet Nathan, as we read in the First Chapter of thr First Book of Kings: upon this at the top towards the Road of Bethlehem, lieth the Field of Blood, in their Language called Hakeldemas that was bought for 30 Silver Pieces; to bury the Pilgrims there, where you see still to this day here and there large and deep holes, and one among the rest very big one, wherein are still to be seen se∣veral whole Bodies lying by one another.

A deep Valley separates this Mount from Mount Zion, which beginneth at the Fish-gate, and goeth down to the Brook Cedron: in it is a Conduit by the upper Pool called Asuia in the Third Chapter of Ne∣hemiah, which is pretty large, yet without any Water) which receiveth its Water from the high Spring of Gi∣hon, this was covered by King Hezekias, and laid down to the Town of David, as we read in the Second Book of Chronicles, Chap. 32. The holy Prophet Isaiah, Chap. 7. Verse 3. mentioneth it, when she Lord said to him; Go forth now to meet Ahaz, thou and Shear-ja∣shub thy son, at the end of the conduit of the upper pool, in the path of the fullers field, &c. And in the Fourth Book of Kings, in the Eighteenth Chapter, Verse Se∣venteen: The King of Assyria sent a great host against Jerusalem, and when they were come up, they came and stood by the conduit of the upper pool, which is in the high way of the fullers field.

Before Mount Zion, towards the South, at the o∣ther side of the Rivulet Kidron lieth the Mount of Transgression, in the Fourth Book of Kings, Chap. 23. called Mashith: between this and Mount Olivet is a Valley, through which goeth down the Road by Be∣thania to Jericho, &c. This is higher and steeper than any hereabout. There you see still some old Walls of the Habitation wherein the Concubines of Solomon did live, after whom the King ran in his old Age; and they did so possess him, that they turned his Heart from God Almighty after their Gods, and so he did that that did not please the Lord God, as you may read in the First Book of Kings, Chap. 11. Verse 4.

Underneath the Mount was the Valley Benhinnem, wherein the Kings of Jerusalem did build a Temple to the Idol Moloch, and did worship him, viz. Solomon, Achaz, Manasseh, &c. whereof we read in several places in the Holy Scripture, Levit. xviii. 21. Thou shalt not let any of thy seed pass through the fire to Moloch. And also Jerem. vii. 30. And they have set their abominati∣ons in the house which is called by my name to pollute it. And they have built the high places of Tophet, which is in the valley of the son of Hinnom, to burn their sons and their daughters in the fire, which I commanded them not, neither came it into my heart, therefore behold, the days come, saith the Lord, that it shall no more be called Tophet, nor the valley of the son of Hinnom, but the valley of slaugh∣ter: for they shall bury in Tophet till there be no place. And also 2 Chron. xxviii. 2. Ahaz made molten images for Baalim, and burnt incense in the valley of the son of Hinnon, and burnt his children in the fire after the abomi∣nations of the Heathen. The holy Prophet Amos doth also make mention of these abominable Idolatries in his Fifth Chapter; which Luke in the Seventh Chapter, Verse Forty third of the Acts doth thus explain: Ye took up the Tabernacle of Moloch, and the star of your god Remphan, &c. which the holy Prophet calleth Sic∣chuth and Chiun: But the Heathen called them Ju∣piter and Saturn, the Devourer of Children, and so he is also painted. This Statue was hollow within, of cast Brass, whereinto they did put the Children, and burnt them alive, and did believe they served God in it, as Abraham when he would sacrifice his Son Isaac: they had also Kettle Drums and other Musical Instru∣ments which they played on, that the Parents might not hear their Children cry: wherefore Christ gave unto Hell it self, and its perpetual flames the Name of the Valley Benhinnon, calling it Gehenna: to give us warning and exhortation, that we hate false and abo∣minable Idolatries, introduced contrary to his Com∣mand, worse than the Devil himself.

Besides this there is little else seen hereabout, only above on the steepness and highest part of the Mount many little Tents and Habitations, as if they hung at

it, which in these times are not inhabited either by Turks nor Moors: in the Valley you see the Rivulet Kidron, where over they brought our Lord Christ bound as a Prisoner, from Mount Olivet: this proceed∣eth only from Rain Water near to the place Gethsemane▪ and runs without by the Town from South to West. Beside this Brook did King Asa burn the Images of Priapus, as Josias and Hezekiah the Idols of Baal, all Incenses and Uncleannesses that are found in the Tem∣ple of the Lord.

Further towards the East, you see from the top of Mount Zion the Fountain and Pool of Siloah below in the Valley, called by Josephus Tiropaean, which divideth this and the Temple Mount, and becometh to be very narrow between them, and extendeth it self from the Rivulet Kidron towards the North to the place of Skulls, where it groweth so large again, that the lower Town of Jerusalem (by Isaiah in his Tenth, and Zacharias in his Ninth Chapter, called The daugh∣ter of Zion and Jerusalem) was situated therein. Out of which near to the Gate of the Fountain of Siloha, which is now walled up) the way goeth up to the Gate of Zion into the upper Town, through which two our Lord Christ was brought a Prisoner to the Houses of Hannas and Caiaphas.

This Valley hath been since the Desolation so filled up, that no depth at all appeareth in our Days; but only without the Fountain Gate by the Fountain Siloah, that is very rich of water, where is still the Pool wherein the Blind Man washed his Eyes (that were anointed with Clay and Spittle, St. John ix. 6.) accord∣ing to the Command of our Lord, and did see.

Just by it are still the two Hills whereof Josephus maketh mention, with a very steep Cliff, very rocky on both sides, one whereof towards the East (called the Rock of the Pidgeons) hath a great Cave, out of which the Fountain springs, and runs off immediately below through a Channel, that goeth so strait and smooth through the Rock, as if it had been made on purpose.

Near to this Fountain and Gate of Siloha, stood the Tower of Siloha, that killed Eighteen Men, as we read in St. Luke, Chap. xiii.

Without between the Fountain and Stream of Kidron, they shew a great Mulberry-Tree, fenced in below, this stands in the place where the holy Pro∣phet Isaias was buried, whom the King Manasse order∣ed to be cut in pieces with a wooden Saw, as being an Heretick.

This may suffice of Mount Zion, its situation and some adjacent places.

As we went about, and came to one of the places, the Monks did shew the Pilgrims in each of them, the Number of the Years for the Pardons laid there by his Holiness, as in some Seven Years and Seven Indul∣gences, but in some others, as in the place where the Holy Ghost was sent, where Christ did eat the Pass∣over with his Disciples, and washed their Feet, and where he at several times appeared when the Doors were shut: and where also (as Nicephorus saith) the Virgin Mary, after the Resurrection of Christ her dear Child, did dwell for Fourteeen Years, &c. full Abso∣lution and Indulgences from all Sins and Facts for ever.

Now that all those that come there, may receive it more worthily, the Monks exhort them to kneel down before every of such places, and to pray the Lord's Prayer, and Ave Maria with Devotion: and that when they have done so, they need not to doubt, but that they have fully received the Absolution that was given for that place by his Holiness. After they had thus prayed in several places, some of our Company rejoiced mightily, and confessed, that after it they were holy, and so innocent, that if they should die then, they were secure, that their Soul should go immediate∣ly out of their Mouth into Heaven, and eternal life. To this I answered them: That I expected Remission of Sin no other ways but only in the Name, and for the Merits, of our Lord Jesus Christ: and that I had not undertaken this Pilgrimage, as they did, to get any thing by it, as by a good Work: nor to visit Stone and

Wood to obtain Indulgence: or with opinion to come here nearer to Christ; because all these things are di∣rectly contrary to Scripture. As the Lord himself saith: Time will come that you shall neither on this Mount nor at Jerusalem worship the Father. And he also fore∣warneth us of these that say; Lo Christ is here, Christ is there, lo he is in the desarts, he is in the Chamber: that we should not believe them, nor go out, but rather confide on his promise, that he will be with us to the end of the World: and where two or three are met together in his Name that he will be in the middle of them. Wherefore our dear Lord Christ hath no need, because he is himself present with them that believe in him, of any Vicegerent, that should on Earth usurp such Power, and take such Honor and Glory to him∣self, as to give Indulgence at his pleasure: because all these things belong only to God. When I saw that they did not much mind this my Discourse, I let them alone in their Opinions, but yet I saw here and there all these places, and considered by my self what our Lord Christ had, by his bitter Sufferings and Death, by his Glorious Resurrection and Ascension, procured us from his Heavenly Father. When the Pilgrims came to one of the above-mentioned places of Mount Zion, and had said their Prayers, they went into it, and con∣templated it, fell down again before it, and kissed it with great Submission and Devotion; pulled out seve∣ral pieces, viz. Beads and Rosaries turned of the Wood of the Trees of the Mount of Olives, some wrought Points, Laces, &c. tied together in Bundles, to touch the holy place with it; they also knocked off in some places (where they might) some small Pieces, to take them along with them as consecrated Sanctua∣ries, to distribute them amongst their Friends at their Return.

All the while that they were thus busie, I considered rather standing behind, what our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ had suffered for us in these places, how he had humbled himself, and came down to us miserable Sinners, to help us, and to extol us that were fallen, and to make us free of the heavy Burthen of our Sins:

how he was led before the Seat of Judicature of Caiaphas, that we might not be led before the severe Judgment Seat of the Almighty God: that he suffered himself to be led captive and bound, to de∣liver us from the Bands of the Devil and Death, and to save us from the Jaws of Hell: and as Esaias saith in his 53d. Chapter, Verse 5. He was wounded for our transgressions, he was bruised for our iniquities, the chastise∣ment of our peace was upon him, and with his stripes we are healed. But that our dear Lord Christ was deli∣vered to the High Priest, and Scribes, &c. for our sakes, and that he was obedient to his Heavenly Fa∣ther, unto Death, even the Death of the Cross, to de∣liver us from the Curse of God and eternal Death. And to make us certain, that he had procured these his unspeakable Benefits and Heavenly Treasures for us, and that we really should be partakers thereof; before his passion he did institute his holy Supper upon the Mount, in the large upper Room, wherein he doth not only communicate them to us, but giveth us also (if we receive the holy broken Bread, and the blessed Cup, with true Faith according to the Institution) his real Body and Blood, to feed us to eternal Life: where we then shall sit, with our Lord Christ, and all the elected ones (after this life) as Coheirs in the high upper Room of his Heavenly Father, at his Table, to eat and drink it with him anew. And that we might heartily comfort our selves with these his un∣speakable Benefits, he also after his Ascension, sent us on the Day of Pentecost his Holy Ghost, the Spirit of Truth, to incline our Hearts, to believe stedfastly all that he hath promised us in his holy Word and Sacra∣ments. So the sending of the Holy Ghost, which was long before predicted by the holy Prophets was full∣filled on this Mount: whereof we read in several places of the holy Scripture, viz. Joel ii. 28. And it shall come to pass afterward that I will pour out my spirit upon all flesh, &c. For on mount Zion, and in Jerusalem, must be a Deliverance according to the promise of the Lord. And Isaiah ii. 3. Come ye and let us go up to the moun∣tain of the Lord, &c. for out of Zion shall go forth

the law and the word of the Lord from Jerusalem. So that the Preaching of Christ's holy Gospel, and his Kingdom did begin from Zion and Jerusalem, and was afterwards spread abroad by his holy Apostles through∣out the whole World.

Grant then, O our dear Lord Christ, unto us, thy Holy Ghost; that he may keep us in the Knowledge of thy holy Word, and that he may so strengthen and comfort us in it, that we may freely and without any fear confess it before the Face of our Enemies and Adversaries; and if they offend and prosecute us, that we may overcome our Crosses and Persecutions with patience, that thy Honor may be advanced, and our Constancy appear. Grant us also, that he may plant these thy Graces in our Hearts, that we may comfort our selves with the hope and expectation of those Treasures which thou hast by thy Death and Passion merited and purchased for us. So that we may abide in thy Ta∣bernacle, and dwell in thy holy Hill for ever. Amen. Psalm xv. 1.

CHAP. V.

Of the Mount Moria and the Glorious Temple of Solomon.

WIthin the City near to Mount Zion lieth another called Moria, divided from it by the Valley of Tiropaeon, which is now filled up and made even with the top (as I have said before) that hereabout is hard∣ly any Depth or Unevenness to be seen. This as well as the other meets with the Rivulet or Brook of Kidron towards the North, and on both of them the Town lieth on the sides or descent. This is very famous in the Holy Scripture, as you read Genesis xxii. That the pious Patriarch Abraham was ready to offer his Son Isaac on this Hill, for a Burnt-Offering to the Lord: whereon Melchisedec the first Founder and King of the

Town Salem, and Priest of the Almighty God, did first build a Temple, and therefore named the City Jerusalem. So we read in the Second Book of Chro∣nicles, Chap. iii. That on the same holy Mount King Solomon did begin to build a House for the Lord, at Jerusalem, many years afterwards. This was for∣merly very high, surrounded with deep Ditches and Cliffs, so that it would make a Man giddy to look down from the top into the depth. Wherefore Pompey and Titus took a great deal of pains before they could get upon it, to take and destroy that glorious and well-built Temple, which was in the last Desolation (as well as before in the first burnt by Nabuhcodonosor) de∣molished and razed to the Foundations, as Christ fore∣told them, Mark xiii. That there should not be left one stone upon another that should not be thrown down, because they did not acknowledge the gracious time of their visi∣tation.

And that all hopes might be taken away from the Jews, to return and to build the Temple again, to re∣establish their Worship; Hadrian the Emperor, to pre∣vent all, ordered, in the year of Christ 134, all to be broken down that was left, and to root it up, to de∣molish all heighths▪ to fill up all Ditches, to level Cliffs, and to make the Ground even all over: he did also al∣ter the Name and Religion of the Inhabitants, and in∣stead thereof introduced the Heathenish Idolatry. In the place of the Grave of Christ he built a Temple for the Idol Jupiter; on Mount Calvaria another for the Idol Venus; and another at Bethlehem to the Idol Ado∣nis: and at last in the place where formerly in the Temple of Solomon did stand the Sanctum Sanctorum, he erected his own Image on a high Column for his memory, which was still standing, in Hieronymus's time. The heighth of this Mount cannot be observed any where else now then without by the Fountain Siloah, and in the Valley of Benhinnon, and so it did remain desolate to the times of the great Emperor Constan∣tine.

After that, when the Jews undertook to rebuild the Temple at the Charge of Julian the Apostate (who

would make Christ a liar, the Lord having said that their House should be left unbuilt) a great Earth∣quake (when they had opened the Ground to lay the Foundation) did move and shake the whole place to that degree, that every thing was turned upside down, and abundance of Jews did perish in it. But when the Jews did not matter this, but endeavoured to go on with the Work in hand, the next day Flames of Fire broke out of the Ground, and fiery Beams struck down from Heaven, which destroyed more than the Earth∣quake, and burnt all their Tools, viz. Saws, Axes, Shovels, Hammers, &c. When the Jews would not leave their Error for all this, the night following some small glittering Crosses like Stars fell down upon their Cloaths, which they could not wash off the next Morn∣ing, nor get out by any means: and an Earthquake and such a violent Hurricane came upon it, that it dissi∣pated all t•• Mortar and other Materials into the Air, so that frightened, and full of fear, they were forced to confess, that Christ, whom their Ancestors Crucified, was the true and only Lord and God.

Seeing that the Temple, together with the Mount it stood upon, are razed and desolated, so that one can hardly now discern what they have been anciently every one that goeth by (because the Lord did not fa∣vour his own House, where his Name was sanctified) hath reason to be astonished at it, and to call to mind the strange anger of God against those that leave the Lord their God, and adhere to other gods, serve and adore them.

Now adays the Turks have taken possession of this Mount, and all the Ground whereon Solomon's Temple did stand, and have built a Mahumetan Mosche on it; which Homar the Third after the great Impostor Maho∣met built when he had taken the holy Land and the City of Jerusalem. This is not very large nor high, but fine and covered with Lead, hath a great Court Yard a∣bout it, paved with white Marble, and here and there Orange and Date Trees are planted in it, which is very pleasant, about the sides thereof are some high Towers and Gates, one whereof is vastly bigger than any of

the rest, which is near to their Batzar, or Exchange, which is very old, high, and hath very good Work∣manship in it, wherefore the Franciscan Monks shew it instead of the Gate of Solomon's Temple, before which lay the Man that was lame from his Mother's Womb, that begged Alms from Peter and John, to whom Peter said: Silver and gold I have none, but such as I have give I thee: In the Name of Jesus Christ of Nazareth, rise up and walk.

At the end of the Gate of this Yard, as commonly in all their Church Porches, hung some Lamps. I could have willingly gone in before them, to see the Rock and Fountain, whereof Ezek. in his Forty seventh Chapter maketh mention, together with the inward Building, but because according to their Mahumetan Laws, all those that are not circumcised are accounted to be unclean, therefore going into their Churches is forbid to Christians: if any one is catch'd ••ithin, he is in danger of his life, or else he must deny his Faith, and be made a Mamaluck or Renegado.

In this Court-Yard is still another Gate, called the Golden Gate by the Franciscans, but because it stands just over against the Mount of Olives, therefore it is to be taken to be the Gate Sur, or rather, as Nehemias ch. iii. Ezek. xlvii. and 2 Chron. xxxi. say; For the Gate of the Stairs, which Semaia, the Son of Sahamia, the Keeper of them did build: through which our Lord Christ did go into the Temple on Palm-Day, to drive out the Buyers and Sellers. Now altho this is walled up in the New Town Wall, so that you cannot go ei∣ther out or in; yet considering its ancient Arches, it looketh rather like a Church than a Town-Gate.

In the middle of the Yard stands a Turkish Mosche, or Temple, called the Rock: this is esteemed very much by the Turks, and next to those of Mecha and Medina reputed to be the most holy. Because God Almighty hath wrought many great Miracles there: and that there Mahomet (as they falsly write of him in their Books) called by God to be the last and greatest Prophet, did ride from Mecha to that of the holy Rock of the Temple of Jerusalem, which is Forty

Days Journey, on a very swift Beast called Elmparae, conducted thither by the Angel Gabriel, who, at his arrival did help him off of his Beast, tied it up, and then led him by the Hand into the Temple, where he found many Prophets standing together in a Circle, which God had resuscitated for his Honor, and to re∣ceive him, and to acquaint him with new good Ti∣dings, and what God had prepared for him (I suppose ever burning Flames of Fire) among the rest he did also find Abraham, Moses, and Jesus the Son of Mary, each of them presenting him, first Moses with a Fatt of Wine, Abraham with a Fatt full of Milk, and Jesus with a Fatt of Water. Then a Voice spake to him from Heaven, saying, If thou chusest the Fatt with Wine, thou and thy People shall perish: if thou chusest the Fatt with Milk, thou shalt also perish: but if thou chusest the Fatt of Water, thou and thy People shall be sa∣ved eternally▪

These and many more insipid Lies of their Mahomet, which are very ridiculous and silly Fables, are believed to be as true as the Gospel by the Turks, Moors, and Arabians, &c. They also certainly believe (chiefly these that live at Jerusalem as the Pilgrims know) that on the last day their Mahomet is to come and seat him∣self on the Rock of the Temple of M••ria, and Christ on the other side of the Valley of Josaphat on the Mount of Olives, over against him. Then when all the People of the Earth shall appear before the Lord of Judica∣ture, he shall ask Mahomet, who the rest are (meaning the Christians that have been under the Yoak of the Turkish Emperor) then shall Mahomet answer and say, They are these that have served me faithfully: where∣upon Christ shall let them pass into Paradise and eternal Felicity: which they believe to consist in gratifying Fleshly Lusts and Desires, in Eating and Drinking, Fine Cloaths, costly Jewels, Gold, Silver, Pearls, plea∣sant Spring-Gardens, beautiful and cleanly Women. Therefore the Temple is so highly esteemed by the Turks and others of the same Faith, and believed to be so holy, that they go into it on their bare Feet with great Devotion, and come twice a year thither in Pil∣grimage

in great Caravans from all places, moved thereunto by the great Zeal they have towards their Mahomet: but chiefly these Pilgrims that have been at Madina-Talnabi, and Mecha, that is Three Days Jour∣ney farther, who return by the way of Jerusalem (which is now by them caled Chutz) to say also their Prayers there: and are of opinion, that if they should do otherwise, than to come thither, their Peregrination would not be acceptable to God. Amongst these are a good many Renegado Christians, that go with them to Mecha, to get by their Devotion into greater preferment, and Wealth, wherefore they are esteemed by them as holy and creditable ones (altho they are full of Kna∣very and Roguery) as these that come from Maho∣mets own Blood: they keep them very honorably, and pray for them as their Victors, and endue them with great great and peculiar Privileges, so that their single Witness is as valueable as three, four, six, ten of o∣thers, according as they have been oftener in these pla∣ces. And that every body may know them, they put upon their Turbans on their Heads, their Mahomet's green Colours, as those of their Priests do, which esteem themselves to be his Relations, which are only permit∣ted (as the Persians wear their red Colour) to wear such Turbants. Wherefore the Turks believe it to be a sin to cover those Members, which Nature hath made secret, with that Colour which their Prophet did bear on his Head. When the before-mentioned Renegado-Christians; are come to this degree, they are bought by every Body for Money, to bear witness before the Cady, or any other Turkish Magistrate, and that even in Causes whereof they have not the least knowledge. So it happens daily, that those that give larger Bribes to the Magistrate, and do exceed their Adversaries in number of Witnesses, make their lost and foul cause good: and of this they make no Conscience, because their Alcoran teacheth them, that God doth not impute to them perjury, but only if they do not invoke him: so that it is full Satisfaction, if they feed ten poor ones for this Transgression, or if they cloath them, or if they redeem one prisoner: but if they are not sub∣stantial

enough to do this, they fast for it three times. This is of a very ill consequence, because they are not afraid to be Perjured and to cheat others. And although these and other the like Sins, are very common amongst the Turks, Viz. Robbing, and to break their Faith, &c. (which are directly against God) yet for all that these (because they have lost all remembrance of Confession, Penitence or mending of their Lives) exceed them in this by far. Besides all this they do not let the Christi∣ans know who or what they are, but rather study to their utmost Power, to abuse and hurt them, as often as they find an opportunity, nay they would not spare their very Lives, if they dare do it for fear of the Turk∣ish Magistrates. In this they are very like unto the Abyssins (which in former Ages were subject unto the Soldans of Aegypt, and did live on the south side of Mount Libanus) which, as Defenders and Protectors of their own Religion, were set out before other Saracens, to Murder and Kill clandestinly all those that did op∣pose their Mahometan Laws and Religion. But after the Turkish Emperor did beat the Soldan, and took his Dominions from him, the Fury of these Assassinators was also soon quelled. For the Great Turk, doth not allow in any of his Provinces, of Murthers, as the Sa∣racens did, but punisheth them severely, and keepeth very strict Laws that no Body may hurt the other, which you may Conclude by this, that if one doth but fetch Blood from the other in the least, he is not only mulcted in one or two Ducats, but sometimes in Forty, Fifty, Nay, sometimes in a Hundred, according to the Hainousness of the Crime, and the Ability of the Of∣fender; and so he keepeth his Subjects in Peace and Quietness.

Besides these Pilgrims that go to Mecha, there are many others in their great Caravans, that rather, like unto Pedlers, endeavour to get thither with small Char∣ges, by the help of their Carvatscharas, or Inns, and Hospitals, to make good Profit there, by Buying and Selling, then out of Devotion to wait on their Maho∣met, and amongst them there are also sometimes Chri∣stians, but at their Arrival they must not Visit the Ho∣ly

Places, much less touch them. Wherefore they buy be∣fore hand all sorts of Merchandises, chiefly at Cayro, (from whence, to Jerusalem it's ten days Journey) to sell or swap them at Mecha, and other places. Which custom we need not think to be strange among the Turks, seeing that a great many are found among the Roman Pilgrims, that pretend to be good Christians, that go Pilgrimages to Rome, St. Jacob, Jerusalem, &c. not only to get his Ho∣linesses Absolution and Indulgences, but rather to make good•• profit of Goods they buy for that purpose: Or which is more, they pass over their Estates during their Absence, into the Hands of others, to reap the Benefit thereof with this Condition, that if they return home from these places where they Vowed to go, they shall have them restored again with great profit. Now as a∣mong all these Pilgrims, chiefly these that have been oftnest at Mecha are by the Turks in greatest esteem, and that Green Colour, which only belongeth to the Priests to wear, is the sooner allowed them, whereby they may be known, as the Brothers of St. Jacob are known by the Scallopshells: The same is also with their Camels, for on the lower part of one of their Forefeet, you may see as many small Chains hung as they have been times there in Caravans, so that you al∣so may soon discern them.

And that I may return to my purpose again; near to the Turkish Moschèe of the Holy Rock, is also an o∣ther Church, which by the Christians (when they were in possession of Jerusalem) was called the Virgin Mary's Church, which is very well built, rather bigger then the Turkish, and stands without towards the South on the place of the great Porch of the Israelites, which is seve∣ral times mentioned in the Scriptures: Viz. Joh. 10. Math. 21. where it is called the Temple and Porch of Solomon, where Christ did Preach, and drove out the Buyers and Sellers, &c. Underneath it is a great Cave, so wide that some hundred Horse may with ease be drawn up in Battalia therein. This is also in the Pos∣session of the Turks, and the Christians dare no more come in here then in the other. By this Prohibition (Viz. That the Mahumetans shall admit into their

Churches or Porches thereof no Strangers which accor∣ding to their Laws are not Cleansed and Washed) you may easily see, that the Turks have taken many Cere∣monies and Laws from the Jews, and according to their depraved understanding and mind, Transcribed them into their Alcoran: So we see that anciently they have their Circumcision, Offerings, Washings, Fasts at certain times of the year, marrying more then one Wife, not Eating any thing that is Unclean, or Pork, or what is suffocated, not having Bells, not drinking Wine, as the Levitical Priest must not do, derived from the Jews: But this last Law concerning not drinking of Wine, is not only not kept, for they drink thereof without mix∣ture, let it be as strong as it can, more than ony other Nation. It being then true that they choose the Fatt with Wine presented them by Moses, as is before said, to their own Ruin and Destruction, wherefore I pray that God may fulfil their Prophecy, Amen.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Saracens and Turkish Religion, Cere∣monies and Hypocritical Life, with a short hint how long time their Reign shall last after Mahomet's Decease.

SEing I have here above made mention, amongst the rest of the Places and Churches of Jerusalem, of the Turkish Moschèes, and also of Mahomet their Pro∣phet: I cannot but also Relate something of theit Hy∣pocritical and Superstitious Life and belief, as I have observed in my Travels, and during my stay among them, chiefly something of their outward Ceremonies, good Works, wherewith they think to fulfil the Laws, to cleanse themselves from their manifold Sins and Transgressions, and to obtain Gods Mercy and Love. Wherefore they strive that they may be found always busie in these good Works, whereof they reckon the

chiefest to be; Alms, Pilgrimage, Fastings, to make Offerings, to abstain from certain Food or Drinks, frequent Washing, Praying, upon which two last they look most of all, as the true means, by which (if they keep them diligently) they may be freed and absolved from their Sins, according to the Promises of their dear Prophet Mahomet. Such and the like have also the Jews had in the Old Testament, where without doubt their Prophet (being by his Mother an Ishmae∣lite) had them also. But seeing that he also Attribu∣teth to these Absolution and Satisfaction for our Sins, and also consequently Salvation and everlasting Life: Therefore all those that follow and believe his Do∣ctrine, miss the only Mediator and Saviour Jesus Christ (of whom as well as of his Holy Word, they else have a good Opinion, as appeareth by their Alcoran) in whom God the Father Almighty will only be known, Invoked, and Adored. As St. John saith in his 5th. Chap. 23. He that Honoureth not the Son, Honoureth not the Father that hath sent him: And Chap. 14. vers. 9. where Jesus saith, He that hath seen me hath seen the Father; and in the 4th Chapt. of the Acts, it is said, verse 12. There is no Salvation in any other, for there is no other Name under Heaven given among Men, whereby we must be saved, wherefore although Mahomet doth great∣ly Command and Teach, that we must Adore the on∣ly God, yet they do not know the true God, that will only be Adored and Honoured in his Beloved Son; and besides Mahomet will not allow that God hath a Son, and much less, That Christ is the true God, in whom we shall believe. For in his Diabolical and Blasphemous mind and thoughts he hath this precau∣tion, that if God should have a Son he might come to be Disobedient unto him (as happeneth sometimes chiefly amongst them, to worldly Princes) which would expose all Creatures in Heaven, as well as on Earth unto great Danger. So he denieth the Deity of Christ and Esteem∣eth him to be no more (as Arius doth) then a great Saint, and meer Man. So he hath the same Opinion with Macedonius, of the Holy Ghost whom, and Christ he sometimes maketh but one person. And so the

Turks know no more, by the Instruction of their Cur∣sed Prophet, of the true living God (that is one in his Essence and three in Persons) then when they Adored the Fire, water and other Elements, nay Heaven and Earth (as also the Persians have done) before they come over to the Saracens, and adhered to the Doctrine of their Mahomet. And besides they have no more com∣fort in our Lord Christ, then the Jews, because they do not believe that Jesus the Son of the Virgin Mary, and Messenger of God, was Crucified, Dead and Buried, but that another, that was very like him, suffered in¦stead of him, because he was Seated in Heaven (where into God received him, and that he was to return again at the End of the World) a great deal higher then that he could be so shamefully killed by the Jews that impi∣ous people; wherefore the Turks admire it very much, that so many Pilgrims of all Nations, come to see the Grave of Christ with so great a Devotion, which is not his. And although the Turks prefer their Mahomet be∣fore Christ, and also do not believe right neither of his Essence nor of his person, so that therefore all their Worship, with what Devotion soever performed, is null and in vain, because it is not in Christ: Yet for all that they Praise and Esteem Christ very high, and Extol him far beyond any Man, as one that was conceived by the Holy Ghost, born of the Virgin Mary, and that hath here on Earth carried on his Doctrine, and confirmed it with powerful Miracles. Wherefore they Esteem the Books of Moses, and the other Writings of the Prophets, but chiefly the Four Evangelists, which they call the Book Jugilis (and the Books of Moses Thresit) as true and Godly. And sometimes they pretend so fairly, that an ordinary Man that is not well instructed in the Chief Articles of Christianity, although there is so great a diffe∣rence, might easily be seduced, and perswaded. Be∣sides the Turks will not allow, neither to Jews, Moors, nor Christians, nay not to their own Nation, to say any thing ill of Christ, nor to Curse him, but if any body should presume to do it, the soles of his Feet are struck very severely with many blows, and he is Fined besides ac∣cording to his Ability. So their Prophet Mahomet com∣mends

the Holy Scripture very much, and saith, that it containeth Truth and Happiness.

If they would but often look into it (as their Alco∣can teacheth them in several places) to read in it, and mend their Lives according to it, they might easily be brought to the right way again; but he himself doth not stand by his words, but falleth off again from them afterwards, and speaketh quite otherways of the holy Scripture, and that so differing, that he quite contra∣dicts himself. For as he did commend it before, so now he discommendeth it again, when he saith, That it hath been (because it is too difficult to be kept) long since quite out of Doors, chiefly in those parts where is written, That we must do good to our Enemies; leave all for his sake; love God with all our heart, &c. and our Neighbor as our own self. And that therefore he Mahomet, was peculiarly and purposely chosen by God Almighty, to bring down with him the Alcoran, and communicate it to the World (that was then drown'd in Lusts, Sin and Vices) to reform and bring it to rights again. Besides this he knew very well how to disguise his Tricks, and how to behave himself in his Life and Conversation, devoutly and discreetly to∣wards the People, and how to blind them under this pretence, that they did believe him, and receive him the sooner to be a great Prophet and Messenger from God. When he found that he had got a good Party, and a great many Adherents, that impowered him, he Studied daily more and more, to order his Laws so, that they might be acceptable and pleasing to all the World. And thus he got in a great many places such a fame, that, to our Grief, in these times, he hath se∣duced and possessed a great part of the World with his Erroneous and Poisonous Doctrine, the Turks close∣ly adhering to this Doctrine, therefore their Hearts are so blinded with darkness, that they cannot have any true knowledge either of God the Father, or the Son, or the Holy Ghost, and so they miss of the right way that would bring them to the Knowledge, and Acknow∣ledgment of their Sins, and consequently to the Re∣mission thereof, and so make them Children of God,

and Heirs of Life Everlasting. But on the contrary, they remain Impenitent, and persist in their sinful Life, with such a Confidence and Security, that they know not when they commit Sins; as to take a Mans Pro∣perty and Goods away by force; to destroy his House and Lands; to undermine his Life and Livelihood; and also, to contaminate themselves with Uncleanness, Whoredom, Sodomy: Not to keep an Oath that hath been taken; to Revenge themselves; from whence Re∣sults, Envy, Hatred, Anger, Contention, Murder, &c. as we hear, what Injustice and Violence the Grand Sig∣nior committeth daily upon our Brethren and Sisters, that border upon his Dominions; which we need not to wonder at, because, if they fall out amongst themselves, they try all Unjust means to Revenge themselves. Wherefore they accuse their Adversaries often falsely (because they dare not offer any violence) before their Judges, and so bring them to Damage, Trouble and Pains. But when they have committed one of these, or the like Facts, and have a mind to free themselves of it, or to be Absolved, they go after their own invented Devotion, to good Works, Alms, Prayers, Fasting, Redeeming of Captives, &c. to make satisfaction to God for their committed Sins, as their Alcoran teacheth them. And so they lead a Life of good outward Conversation, and are very diligent in their Devotion, chiefly in going to their Prayers at the five Customary hours of the Day, when they leave their VVork, and go to Church. And seeing that in these Countries they have neither Clocks not VVatches, to tell them the time of the Day and Prayers, instead of them they have their Priests (called Meitzen by them) on the Steeples, which are ordered to cry out the Hours with a loud Voice, that you may hear them as far almost as the Ringing of a Bell, even throughout the whole Town. The first Hour of Prayers is an Hour and half before Day-light: The second is about Noon: The third (which the Arabians call Latzera) is about Three a Clock in the Afternoon: The fourth is at Sun-set; and the fifth when after the Sun is down, the Twilight or whitishness of the Skies is

gone, and the Stars appear clearly. Sometimes two of these Priests sing together, which is common in great Towns, and they sing almost as with us they sing a Ballad, so that while the one is singing, the other may fetch his breath; and so they sing by turns, until the Song is at an end. When I came first into these Countries, and hear'd them Sing about that time in the Morning, I believed the Turks did it that they might brisk themselves up to go to Work, until I heard them do the same at other hours in the day time, and understood they were their Priests. So they Sing about Five a Clock at Night very well, and some∣times something longer, because of the Sick that live near, which desire it of them, to make them cheerful, and to have a good heart, which we need not to won∣der at, for their Clergy (which are not Wiser or more Learned than the Lay-men) know not how to com∣fort them, or to make them joyful, much less how to give good and wholsome Instruction, out of the Word of God (although they believe it to be true) how to obtain forgiveness of Sin, and Gods Mercy, Love, or Commiseration, but think it to be sufficient, if they Admonish them that lye a dying, to think of God, and to Pray to him that he may have Mercy upon them; and afterwards to wash their Body to cleanse them quite from all Sins, according to the Law of their Mahomet, which they highly esteem, and that the ra∣ther, because they serve not only the Living but al∣so the Dead; wherefore the Turks wash themselves daily, chiefly at the Hours of their Prayer, when they are a going to Church, and that very carefully and diligently, viz. Their Hands, Privy-Members, Head, Neck, Feet, nay the whole Body, according as they are Contaminated or become Unclean. So in consi∣deration of their Sins, they have three sorts of wash∣ing; whereof one is that of the whole Body, which these must make use of that are not Married, and con∣taminate themselves with Concubines; wherefore the Baths are kept continually in an equal heat, and are open to any body both by Day and Night, that these that have occasion to wash their whole Body, may not

be hindered in their Devotion, but soon go to Church again. The second is performed on the Organs of the five Senses, and the Head, to cleanse them from all spots and blemishes, which are contracted by ill thought, and frivolous and unseemly discourses; wherefore there are several Cisterns here and there, but chiefly in their Churches and Chapels, where they wash them∣selves first, that being clean, they may be worthy to come to Church to Prayers, for if they should omit it, they believe that their Prayers would not be accepta∣ble to God, and so he would not hear them. So they begin first with washing of their Hands, then they lift up the Water with the hollow of their Hands, and so let it run down to their Elbow; then they wash their Mouth, Nose, Eyes, Ears, Head, Neck, and at last their Feet, and speak some peculiar words with it. When they have no Water, which often happeneth in large Desarts of Arabia, they are allowed by their Laws instead thereof, to rub these Members over with Sand. But that they may not be hindered by their Cloaths, from coming to these Members, they wear such ones that have wide Sleeves, no gatherings about their Neck, nor have any Strings about their Drawers. The third sort is also esteemed to be very necessary, and is made use of as often as they empty their Body by Stool or Urine, or Belching, and so they wash them∣selves cowring down before the Cisterns, publickly without shame, both before and behind, in the sight of every Body. According to what hath been said, we see that they mind only the outward cleansing of their Body, and so they look also upon the outward Cir∣cumcision, rather than to think how they ought, ac∣cording to Gods Commands, to cleanse themselves from their inward Leprosie, by the Bath of Regene∣ration, and to Circumcise their Hearts, by an inward Spiritual Circumcision, whereof they know nothing. When their Clergy-men have cried out the Hours, from the Steeples to the Batzars, or Exchanges, &c. and the Turks have washed and cleansed themselves, they go into their Chapels, which are in the middle of their great Camps, or Carvatschars, where I could see it

best, because I durst not go into their Mosques. After they have left their Shoes at the Gate, they do not turn, nor look back for one another to speak, but go straight forwards, until they come to their places where they stand still, and look upon their Priest that is before them, and mind him, when he beginneth the Prayers, that they may say it after him, and imitate his Ceremo∣nies or means, whereof he maketh use, as the lifting up his Hands, stroking over his Forehead, bending his whole Body forwards, falling down upon his Knees, kissing the Earth; and at length when the Leila hillalla beginneth, turning their Heads from one side to the other, whereby they give a hint, That they are in Peace, and good Will with God and their Neighbors. While they are in their Holy Places, you shall hear none of them Sneeze, Cough, Hawk or Spit, for they are of Opinion, that, if they should do so, God would not hear their Prayers so effectually, because they should not be perfectly clean. They have no set Form of their Prayers, and Pray generally for good Fortune, and other Worldly welfare; for Victory for their Em∣peror; that God may send great Divisions amongst us Christians, that so they may have a better opportunity to fall upon us, and to beat us. They suffer no Ima∣ges in their Temples or Chapels, and are only for Ado∣ring the true and only God, Creator of Heaven and Earth; and so instead of them they have Pictures of sine Plants or Flowers, viz. Of Roses, &c. and Wri∣tings of their Prophet Mahomet; and so you find on their Gold and Silver Coins, no Pictures or Images of their Emperors, as upon ours, but only the Names of them, or of the Towns where they are Stamped, in Arabian Letters, (which are common to both Nations) together with the date of the Year, which they begin from the time when Mahomet fled into the Desarts, which for that reason they call the Year of Hegira, where he got a great number of Adherents, and was made by them a King; this was done in the Year of Christ 622. After they have ended their Prayers, they begin to talk to one another, and so every one of them goeth home to VVork again; and they are allowed on their

Feast-days (which they keep on Friday, as we do on Sunday, and the Jews on Saturday) to open their Shops again after Prayers, and to go to VVork, because they say that Idleness may the easier draw them into Sins. So one may easily know by their Shops, according as they are opened or shut up on these three days, whe∣ther they belong to Christians, Turks, or Jews; besides none of these forceth one to observe the others Holy-days, and so they live peaceably and quietly together. Before the Turks Holy-day beginneth, they lighten on Thursday Night before, as soon as it beginneth to be dark, upon their high Steeples, many Lamps, whereof they hang without on the Galleries round about, three rows one above the other, so that as you look upon them in the Night, they look like unto a threefold Garland; they let them burn so long until they go out of themselves one after the other. The same Lamps they also light every Night during their Lent, which beginneth in their Month Romadan (so called by the Arabians) and doth last all that Month long. Their Year consisteth of Twelve Months, which they Accompt by the Moon-lights; so that their Months do not agree with ours, (for theirs have not one with the other above 29 or 30 days) and consequently their Years want between 10 or 11 days of ours, so that their Lent falleth at an uncertain time, sometimes in the Spring, and sometimes in the Summer, &c. so in my time it began in December, and ended in January. During all this time they are very Devout, and strive to be at the Prayers and Duties; for if any body should Dye in Lent time, that had used not to fre∣quent them, they would look upon him as a lost and damned Man, and doubt whether they should Bury him or no. During their Lent they Eat nothing before Night; when the Stars appear, then every one goeth home to Eat, or else in the great Batzars to a Cooks Shop, to buy Victuals, where all Night long is so great a throng of poor People, that have nothing to Eat at home, that they lift one another almost up; there you see one Eating, another Drinking, another Crying out, others Quarrelling, which causeth such a

Crowd and Noise, as is enough to make one Deaf and Giddy. When Lent is at an end, then they begin their Easter-Feast (which they call Ʋlubaira) which they keep with great Solemnity for three days, salute one another very kindly, and wish one the other all health and happiness, as we do on New-years-Day: They also seek all sorts of Pastime, chiefly the Janizaries, which in great places erect Gibbets three Fathoms high, to the top whereof they tye strong Ropes, almost like as the Children do in our Country, where they Swing others for a small recompence; when any body sits in it, two stand ready with a broad String, one on each side, which they fling before him, and fling him back∣wards with it, and so set him a Swinging. Others run before the People that are walking, and sprinkle them with sweet smelling Water, to get a little spell of Money out of them, chiefly the Christians, which they will not easily leave before they have satisfied them; wherefore they are necessitated to stay at home on these days. Not long after they keep another pe∣culiar Feast, called Chairbairam, where they also use all sorts of Gesticulations, which were too long to re∣late here; they do not Fast on those days, but they Sacrifice young Steers and Wethers, &c. cut them in∣to small pieces, to distribute them among the People, for the Honor of Abraham, because he did obey God, and would have Sacrified his Son Isaac to him: At this abundance of Heathens congregate themselves in cer∣tain places before the Towns, to go in Pilgrimage to Medina-Talnabi, Mecha, and Jerusalem, for love to Mahomet. Amongst them many are found, that are re∣covered again from dangerous Distempers, or deli∣vered from great Dangers, and then did make a Vow, either to go on Pilgrimage to one of these places, or else to kill such a number of Beasts to distribute among the Poor as an Alms.

According to what I have said before, that they compute their Months more by the Moon-light, and so accompt Twelve of them to a Year, they observe mightily the Change of the Moon, chiefly the New Moon, to see it again. Wherefore at that time they

go often in great Numbers out, unto the next Hill, to observe it the better, after Sun set. He that seeth it first sheweth it with great rejoycing to his Companions. In their Prognostications they also mind the Moons Light and according to that, they make their Accompt, to know then if any thing shall happen. They have also (as some of them have told me) a peculiar Book, which they keep very close to themselves, wherein is briefly Written, what shall happen to them every year, whether it be good or bad: This beginneth in the same Year, with their Prophet Mahomet, and continu∣eth for 1000 Year, when this is at an End, they have nothing more of that Nature worth any thing.

And being they go no further, some will deduce or conclude from thence, that their Reign will soon have an end, when those years are passed. Wherefore they fear the Christians very much, and confess themselves, that they expect to suffer a great blow from the Chri∣stians: And this one may see or conclude, from hence for on their Holidays in the Morning about 9 of the Clock, they shut up the Gates of their Towns, great Champs, and other publick Habitations, as I found at A∣leppo, so that many times I could not get either out or in until they opened them again, for they fear at that time to be Assassinated by the Christians.

Being then that their Term of Years is near expired, for when I lived in these Places in the year 1575. they Writ 982 of this same Term, so that there was not quite 18 Years more to come. Now if we com∣pare these 1000 Years with those whereof John the E∣vangelist and Apostle maketh mention in the 20th Chapt. and 7th Verse of his Revelation, saying, When the 1000 Years are expired Satan shall be loosed out of his Prison. And shall go out to deceive thē Nations which are in the Four Quarters of the Earth, Gog and Magog to gather them together to Battle (as also is written in this same Book of Revelation in the 9th Chapter, and by the Holy Prophet Ezekiel in his 38th and 39th Chapters) the Number of whom is as the Sand of the Sea, &c. We find not only that they may also be interpreted and ap∣plied to the Turks and their Adherents, but also that they

have begun their Reign almost at the same time when Mahomet and the Antichrist should appear, about the year 666 as we Read in the 13th Chapter and the last Verse of St. John in his Revelation. And besides it look∣eth in these miserable times (when it seems as if every thing would turn topsie turvy) that these Years are passed, and that Satan is loosed, as if our dear Lord God would make an End of this malicious World. Add that some Learned Mathematicians do Prognosticate that at these times, but chiefly in the year 1588. great Alterations will be in all the parts of the World. When we add to this Date the 42 Months, or 1260 days, or the 3½ years, whereof the Prophet Daniel, and also the Holy Evangelist and Apostle John in his Revelation make mention, the Eighteen Years that are still wanting of the 1000 Years of their Mahomet (as is above said) will be compleated, so that these two years Numbers do very well again agree together.

God the Almighty preserve us in all Adversities, that we may persevere in the acknowledged Truth of his Holy Gos∣pel, and send us Penitent Hearts, that we may be sensible of his merciful Visitations, and also overcome the two last Wees that are not quite over, with Patience. Amen.

CHAP. VII,

Of Mount Bethzetha, and the two Houses of Pilat and Herod.

FRom the Temple Mount towards the North, you come presently towards the House of Judicature, where Pontius Pilat did Live, and condemn Innocent Lord Christ, to that Heinous Death of the Cross. But because the House hath been since surrounded with ••igh Walls we saw in the Court (where the Soldiers 〈◊〉〈◊〉 cloath ou•• Lord Christ with the Purple Cloke, and 〈◊〉〈◊〉 ••pon his Head the Crown of Thorns, and after∣wards

did spit upon him, and Mock, Beat and Whip him) nothing Remarkable, but only without, a very Old and High Arch, like unto an Arched Bridge. This is almost black with Age, and so Artificially Erected, that one can hardly find any juncture, where the Stones are put together. This was the High Place (as it is said) before the Judgment Hall, whereon the Condemn∣ed Men use to be exposed to the sight of the People, because the Jews durst not go into the House of Ju∣dicature at their High Feasts, as Easter and Whitsunday (as you may Read in the 18th Chap. of St. John) that they might not make themselves Unclean, but Eat of the Paschal Lamb: Wherefore Pilat did several times go out to the People to shew them our Lord Christ, and sit down in the Judgment Seat in a place that is called the Pavement, but in the Hebrew Gabbatha, as you Read in the 19th Chap. of St. John Vers. 13. This Arch is open at the Top in the Middle, and hath two other small Arches about the widness of an ordinary door one by the other supported by a Marble Column, in one of them stood Christ with his Crown of Thorns on, and Pontius Pilat in the other, when he said to the People, Behold the Man.

Hard by at the other side of the Arch, at the Right Hand, on an Ascent, they shew the Habitation of King Herod, which is still very fine, and gloriously built of Marble. Wherefore, although it is not the same (which hath been burnt long agone by the Jews, and afterwards Rooted out by the Romans) yet it is built in the same Place, where the King's Palace did stand, on the height of Mount Bethzetha, as Josephus Testifieth, from the North over against the Temple, and the Fort Antonia: Where our dear Lord Christ was Mocked and Abused by Herod and his Servants, and had a White Garment put upon him, and so was sent back again to Pilate. In these Habitations, chiefly these of Pilate, are still to this day, Turkish Magistrates (Sanchiachs, Cadis, and Soubashaws) dwelling, that keep Courts of Judicature there; and therefore no body is admitted to come in, before he hath Gratified the Master and Servants. These Magistrates are very severe, and Punish their

Subjects for no great Matter, either in their Body or Purse, or with a certain Number of Stripes, which they give with straps of rough Neats Leather upon the Soles of their Feet, fewer or more, in proportion to their committed Crimes more or less, which sort of punish∣ment is very common to all Eastern Countries. This sort of Punishment is very Ancient, and mention there∣of is made in the 25th Chapt of Deuteronomy Verse 2. And it shall be, if the Wicked Man be Worthy to be bea∣ten, that the Judge shall cause him to lie down, and to be beaten before his Face, according to his Fault by a certain Number, Forty Stripes he may give him and not exceed; least if he should exceed, and beat him above these with many Stripes, then thy Brother should seem vile unto thee. So the Holy Apostle St. Paul hath received them several times, whereof he maketh mention in the 2 Corinthians chap. 11. vers. 23. Where he saith, I am in Labours more abundant, in Stripes above measure, in Prisons more fre∣quent, in Deaths often. Of the Jews five times Received I forty Stripes saw one.

When we came back from these Habitations, we saw some more Remarkable Places, which are usually shewn unto Pilgrims, some whereof are mentioned in Scrip∣ture. Viz. The Iron Gate, through which the Angel of the Lord, did conduct St. Peter out of Prison: The Habitation of Mary the Mother of St. John, where the Holy Apostle Peter did knock at the Door: The Tem∣ple of St. John the Evangelist, whereof the Knights of the Order of St. John call themselves, and several o∣thers, which are for the most part fallen down, and lie in Ruins. But because in these times, it is uncertain in what Condition they were then, I also omit to say any more of them. After we had seen these two Places, with their Habitations; we returned back again at Night, according to the appointment of the Father Guardian, to go with us into the Temple of Mount Cal∣varia.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the Mount Calvaria▪ and the Holy Grave of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ.

ON the 27th of Septemb. in the year 1575 after Din∣ner, the Father Guardian did send to the other Lords of the Temple, to let us in to the Temple of Mount Calvaria (which the Turks keep always Locked up.) But we and some other Friers in their own Habit, went with their Father Guardian to the Temple of the Mount, which first of all the Pious Queen Hellen Mo∣ther of the Great Emperor Constantine (after she had destroyed the Temple of Venus that was Built upon the Place of the Grave) did Build, as she did also build se∣veral Churches in several Places, Viz. That at Bethle∣hem, where Christ was Born: That of the Holy Apo∣stle James the greater, in the Place of the Upper Town, where he was Beheaded: And an other on the Mount of Olives, where Christ did Ascend into Heaven: As also another at Bethania, where Christ did Raise Laza∣rus his dear Friend, from the Dead, and in many other places, at Nazareth, and on the Mount Thabor, &c. But when afterward the City of Jerusalem was many times Besieged, and at length taken from the Christians, by the unbelieving Saracens, Hequen that malicious King of Aegypt did in the year of Christ 1011. Demolish these Churches, and so they remained until after his Decease his Son Daber came to the Government, who afterwards in the year 37. did give leave to Constantine the Empe∣ror of Constantinople (when he renewed with him their Old Correspondency) to Rebuild it again at his own Cost and Charges. In these our times, when it remain∣eth in the possession of the Turks, free Egress and Re∣gress, is quite denied to the Christian Pilgrims, that come to see the Holy Places: For when they saw that many Christians came yearly thither from all Places, Viz. From Armenia, Aethiopia, Syria, Aegypt, Greece,

Italy, Nay from all Places of Europe, they have put a cer∣tain Sum of Mony (according as they are near, or fur∣ther off, under his Dominions or not) to be paid by them, to be admitted. For some pay two or three Seckins or Ducats, other four and five; but we that are Outlandish, as Italians, French-men, and Germans (as well knowing that we do not spare for Mony) must pay Nine Seckins a piece, and that without any Re∣mission, must be paid in weighty Turkish or Venetian Ducats: And they keep the Temple Locked up close, until every one of them have paid their due: By these means the Grand Senior hath acquired himself a conside∣rable yearly Revenue, which amounts to several thou∣sand Ducats yearly. But yet it is now adays nothing near to what it hath been formerly, when all was under Popish Darkness, and the Pilgrims used to Flock thither in great Numbers. For since in our time, by the Grace of God, the Holy Gospel hath been brought to Light again, and began to be Preached (which sheweth us a far nearer and better way to find Christ, and to have true and full Pardon and Remission of our Sins) so that daily more come to the knowledge of the Truth, and return to the Lord, his Revenues decrease as much as the Number of the Pilgrims that used to resort thi∣ther.

When we came pretty near to the Temple, and ex∣pected to have seen Mount Calvaria, the Franciscans told us, that this Mount, together with the holy Grave, and the Garden (wherein Christ did first appear unto Mary Magdalen) were intirely taken into the Temple, so that no heigth at all was to be seen without.

Just when we came into the Court of the Temple there appeared an old Heathenish Prison, wherein are Prisoners kept to this day, near which did stand the Prison-Gate (whereof we saw still some part of the Wall up in the Wall of the Church) through which Christ did carry his Cross to the place of Sculls, which in former days was without the Town, as you may chiefly in St. Mark, Chap. 17. V. 20. clearly see, where he writes; And they led him out to crucifie him. And in the Thirteenth Chapter to the Hebrews, Vers. 12.

where it is plainly writ, that Christ suffered without the Gate. But when afterwards the Emperor Adrian did rebuild and enlarge the desolated Town, he did also surround with a Wall the place where our Lord Jesus Christ did suffer, which was without towards the North-West, beyond the Mount Moria, so that now it is situated almost in the middle of the City of Jerusa∣lem, and becuse of this Inlargement he call'd the Town after his Sirname Helia.

We staying a great while at the Gate, before they did open it unto us, several Oriental Christians, to wit, Greeks, JACOBITES, Armenians, &c. came to us to visit their Priests, and to perform their Devotion in it, so that about Three-score went in with us.

The Building of the Temple is very large, of strong Walls, and so thick, that it taketh away the Light within: it is richly covered with Grey Marble within and without, and supported by some Marble Pillars about a Fathom and a half thick, so strongly, that one may conclude from thence, that neither Labour nor Costs were spared in its Building. Yet the Turks, (notwithstanding the holy Places and the Costliness of the Building) have in some places spoiled and demo∣lished some part of the Walls thereof, so that now they are no more like to the old ones that were before, and besides (as the Guardian told us) half of it is hardly remaining. Yet it is still very large, and so well clo∣sed up again, that one can hardly perceive the Loss thereof.

As we went through, we passed by the Grave of Christ, in a glorious large Chapel, called our Ladies which the Franciscans have in possession, and is hung with Tapestry very well wrought. Within it is a great Altar, on each side whereof is to be seen a Nick, artificially made of white Marble, the Windows whereof are very well guarded with Iron Bars: in that towards the Left Hand is kept a piece of the Column whereon Christ was whip'd; it is of a red∣dish Colour, three spans long, and four over. In the o∣ther on the Right there is a small Crucifix, in the middle whereof is in-laid a small piece of the true Cross of Christ.

From thence we went further into their Vestiary; which hath several large Rooms, where we staid until the Franciscans had put on their usual Habits to go their Rounds with us, and to shew us the holy places with the usual Ceremonies. When they had made themselves ready we came out again into the Church, and left the Chancel of the Grecians, that is in the middle, and the holy Grave upon our Right Hand, and went to the Left to another Chapel, whereby the Grecians have an Altar without, by which in the Marble Floor, are two Holes to be seen, wherein they pretend that Christ was detained prisoner until they had fixed the Cross for him on the place of the Sculls. This Chapel is within very deep, and so dark, that when you go into it you believe that you go into a Cave, where the Romanists believe, as I understood by a French Man of their Convent, who was in a Priest's Habit, and as we went about, standing before the Altar, did tell us, what they had done to Christ our Lord, in eve∣ry place; that they did detain Christ there (as in a place where into they threw the Dust) to mock him, until his Cross was got ready for him.

Just by the Chapel behind the Chancel, they shew on a high Arch another place, where the Soldiers did share Christ's Cloaths amongst them, and cast Lots for his Coat.

Somewhat farther about they shew a pair of Stairs of Twenty nine Steps, which we descended, and came into a great Chapel of Queen Helen, situated under∣neath Mount Calvaria, wherein is still towards the Right Hand of the Altar a glorious and beautiful high Seat of Marble whereon the Queen used to sit, when she had a mind to overlook the Workmen, to see whether they went on right; for she loved Build∣ing mightily, as appeareth still to this day by the num∣ber of her mighty Buildings. Behind this Seat are eleven Steps, which go further down Mount Calvaria, where the Cistern hath been, wherein Queen Helen found the Cross of Christ.

Underneath on the Altar, 'tis true, there stands one, but it is new, and therefore to be supposed, to be put

there of late years. At the bottom of the Stairs do also appear very plainly the cracked Rocks, as it is mentioned in Scripture: And the rocks rent. And these Rents or Cracks are a foot wide, and so deep as to reach from the top to the bottom of the rocky Mount of Calvaria.

When we came up into the Church again, they shewed us at the bottom of Mount Calvaria, a Chapel that was locked up, and in it underneath the Altar a large blackish Stone with some reddish Spots upon it, in the shape of a piece of a Pillar, which was brought thither from Pilate's House of Judicature, whereon our Lord did sit, when the Soldiers did put the Crown of Thorns on his holy Head, and did salute him as a King with their Knees bended, and did also mock him, spit in his Face, and whip him. This Crown was twisted out of Thorns, called by the Arabians, Nausegi and Athausegi; and by the Grecians and Latinists, which have kept the same Name, Rhamnus, whereof there are three sorts, the first of which is the true one (which is also common in France and Italy) which doth not only grow without, but also within the Town of Jerusalem plentifully; this puts out early in the Spring, into long, thin and pliable Twigs, with a great many long and strong Prickles. Just by it cometh out above from the Chancel of the Grecians, a path up to Mount Calvaria, which they forced from the Georgians, as they did before from the Armenians, by giving Money to the Turks. Which is very common in these Countries; for if one hath any Business to be done by the Turks, it cannot be easier obtained, than if you bribe them more than your Adversary, wherefore it happeneth very often that such places are taken away from one Nation, and given to the other.

Underneath this Way or Gallery you ascend nine∣teen Steps to go up to Mount Calvaria, where we saw two Chapels one behind the other, which were open, and had a very delicate Floor, artificially inlaid wirh Flowers of several Colours, the like whereof is hardly to be seen any where else.

At the top of the Stairs we left our Shooes, and went in, and attended the Priest, which did also there, as he had done in other places before, give us a short account of what had been done to our Lord Jesus Christ in these places, viz. that in the hindmost Chapel his Hands and Feet had been extended, and sharp Nails drove through them, and so with a great deal of Indignation he was fixed to the Cross. And that in the foremost our Lord Christ did hang on the Cross be∣tween the two Malefactors, where there was still to be seen the Hole wherein the Cross of our Lord did stand. He also briefly repeated to us the Seven Words which he did say when he was upon the Cross; and for a Conclusion he told us, that his Holiness the Pope had laid there Indulgences for ever, for all Sins and Trans∣gressions, to be distributed among the Pilgrims.

When we had done we went further into the Cha∣pel, and saw first a place two Cubits high, which was also covered with fine Ashen-coloured Marble, watered with Blew, in the middle whereof was a round Hole about a Span over, and was lined with Tin, wherein did stand the Cross of our Lord Christ, which is so closely tipped and lined, that the Pilgrims can take neither much nor little of this, nor any other place, as the holy Grave, or Bethlehem where Christ was born, &c. Wherefore notwithstanding the pretence of the Franciscans, that in their Agnus Dei's and Crucifixes are little pieces of the fore-mentioned places, it is all false and nothing of Truth in it, which they must confess themselves, it being all covered with Marble. Near to this Hole, both to the Right and Left, where the Crosses of the Two Thieves did stand, in the Room of them two others are erected, where hard by that on the Left at the inside, is to be seen a long and large Fissure in the Rock of the Mount, which the Queen left on purpose open in the Marble Pavement, so that you may very plainly see it, and it goeth down very deep, as I have told you before.

When we come down again from the Mount, and come out behind the Chancel toward the Gate of the great Church, there lieth in the Pavement a fine and

large Marble, which is surrounded, or taken in, with Iron Barrs in the same place, where Joseph and Nico∣demus, the Two Disciples of Christ, did wrap up the Body of Christ, after it was taken down, in Linnen with Spices.

From thence as we went further towards the Grave of our Lord Christ, we left below towards the Left on the place of a Scull, another Chapel, wherein are the Graves of some Christian Kings, viz. Gottofredi, and Baldewin, &c. which took the Land of Promise by force from the Infidels, and came towards the Right by the Chancel of the Greeks into a great round and high Building of the holy Grave, which butts upon the Church, and is below towards it, it standing upon very strong double Marble Pillars, quite open: it is covered with Lead, and hath at the top a great Window, where the Light falleth in, which is four Fathoms square, where underneath is the holy Grave of our Lord Jesus Christ under the open Sky, so that at all times, both Rain, Dew and Snow fall upon it.

Before the Passage into the Sepulchre is a small Cha∣pel, wherein is nothing of any moment to be seen, than a Square Stone, just before the Door of the Grave; this is of the true Rock of the Grave, about eight Inches thick, whereon (as some say) the Angel of the Lord, that rolled back the Stone from the Door, did sit. This was also useful and did serve to keep the great Grave-Stone, that was before the Door of the Grave (which is hardly three Foot high) steady, that it might not give backwards. That the Door was but low, and that the Stone did lean before it, you may sufficiently see out of the Twenty fourth Chapter of the holy E∣vangelist S. Luke, Verse 12. when he saith: Then arose Peter, and ran unto the sepulchre, and stooping down, &c. And also in the Twentieth Chapter, and the Eleventh Verse of St. John, where you read: But Mary stood without at the sepulchre weeping: and as she wep••, she st••oped down, and looked into the sepulchre. And also the holy Apostle and Evangelist St. John came before Peter to the Sepulchre, and looked into it, and saw the Linnen Cloaths, but he did not go in himself. And we

read also of the Door of the Sepulchre, and that the great Stone before it used to be rolled. When you will go into the Door you must stoop very much, and ra∣ther creep than go into it. The Sepulchre within is even with the Floor of the Chapel, and of the whole Church, and is so large, that four persons may stand very easily by one another.

After the Priest had ended his Speech which he made in the Sepulchre, of the Resurrection of Christ, which we heard without in the Chapel, and had also pro∣claimed the Popes Indulgences for ever, we went in also, and looked upon the Rock whereout the Sepul∣chre was cut, and found it underneath on the Right Hand (altho it had been very much torn by the Infi∣dels) still in very good Order, so that we could di∣scern it still distinctly, where now the Monks have made an Altar, and covered it with a large fair Marble. Over it hung about Twenty Lamps, which made the Sepulchre (which else is very dark) very light; one whereof belongeth to the Catho∣lick King of Spain, another to the Christian King of France, and others to other Princes; they look very carefully after them, because they bring them in a considerable Revenue yearly. The holy Sepulchre is lined within and without with grey Marble, and chiefly without some adorned with carved Columns that stand between it.

On the outside of the Door of the Sepulchre doth hang a fine Golden Piece, wherein our Lord Christ is very artificially wrought, as he did appear after his Re∣surrection unto Mary Magdalen first, and afterwards also to the Women: at the top of the Sepulchre is also a small round Steeple, which is covered with Lead, and upheld with six double Marble Columns: besides this there is at the Back of the Sepulchre another plain Chapel, wherein the JACOBITES, as I was in∣formed, perform their Devotion.

More at the Left Hand, as we went out of the Se∣pulchre again, near to it in the Pavement, are two large Circles, rarely inlaid of Mosaick Work, in the middle whereof are two round Stones of Marble, one

whereof is white, and the other red, lying in the same place of the Garden, where Mary Magdalen turned a∣bout, and took our Lord Jesus Christ to be the Gar∣dener. Thus much I thought convenient to relate of these places that are shewn in the Circuit.

When I found my self to be in these places where our dear Lord Christ did walk about, teach, and by his Passion, Death, Resurrection and Ascension work our Redemption, and procure and purchase our Salvation, from his Heavenly Father again, I did remember and rejoice at these incomparable Benefits, and merciful Treasures with all my heart; for it cannot otherwise be, but that every true Christian, that is upon this Mount of Calvary, and thinks there of the Cross of Christ, and in the Sepulchre of his glorious Resur∣rection, must find great Passions within his Breast: as you also read in the last Chapter of St. Matthew, Verse 8. of the Women, where you find these Words: And they departed quickly from the sepulchre, with fear and great joy. This I found also in my Heart and Mind, so that it was, as if I saw our Lord Jesus Christ the Son of the Almighty God, to humble himself, and to be∣come obedient to his Heavenly Father, even to Death, nay, to the Death of the Cross, to bring us miserable, sinful Men to Rights again, and to deliver us clearly from all Debts and Punishments, and so to procure us the only and true Indulgences.

After we had seen Mount Calvaria, the Sepulchre of Christ our Lord, and other places, we went into the Vestiary again to eat our Supper.

After Supper, they led us up into the Gallery (which is in the round Building over against the holy Sepul∣chre) to stay there all Night: but some of the Ea∣stern Christians sung below in the Church, others did grumble together, and played with their sweet sound∣ing Cymbals (which were made of pure Metal about the bigness of a large Walnut-shell) so pleasant Tunes or Musick, that I rather looked on them, and minded their Musick, than slept.

The next Morning my Comerades, after they had been at Confession, and received the Sacrament upon

Mount Calvaria, came to me into the Church again, with an intention to go round once more. So we saw the holy places once more, and at last also the Cha∣pel, which we left the day before at the Foot of the Hill on our Left Hand, belonging to the Grecians; they let us in very willingly, because of our Chaplain, who was also a Grecian, and shewed us in it at the fur∣thest part where it was pretty dark, a large and deep Crack of the Rock: afterwards also on each side, some fine and high Tombs of some Kings, viz. that of Gottefrid de Boulion, and others, which were for some time possessed of the Land of Promise: these stand on delicate Columns, cut out of curious grey Marble, whereon are some Epitaphs, which I thought to set down here underneath, together with a short Relation when they did take the Land of Promise, and the fa∣mous City of Jerusalem, how long they were possessed of it, and how many Kings did succeed one another in it.

Plants observed by Monsieur Belon, to grow about some of the Holy Places.

Near Jerusalem on the Mounts, Hills and Valleys.

Adrachne seu Arbutus folio non serrato, Picea, Aria, I∣lex cocci-glandifera, Terebinthus, Lentiscus, several sorts of Cislus, Capparis Spin••sa, Paliurus or Christ's Thorn, Fig-trees, Olives, Almonds a sort of Wild Peach, Jujubes or Zizyphus, Esculus or Dwarf-Oak, Alaternus, White Mulberry for the Silk-Worms, the Inhabitants trading a little in Silk and Kermes, which they gather from a Holm Oak: Sesamum, Gossipium seu Xylon, Thym∣bra, Marum, Origanum Heracleoticum, Tragoriganum, Salvia, Stachys, Ruta Sylv. Trifolium Asphaltites: a rare fort of Hy••scyan••us on the Walls of Jerusalem: Azada∣rach Arbor in Palestinâ secundum D. Monconny.

Between Mount Sinai, Mount Oreb and Suez.

Oenoplia a sort of Zizyphus; Arbor Lanigera or Cot∣ton-Tree; Glans seu Nux Ʋnguentaria, call'd Bal••nus Mirepsica; Alcanna a Species of Ligustrum, of great use and sale for Dying and Colouring: Senna, Rose of Jericho, or Hiericho a sort of Thlaspi, Colocynthis, Am∣brosia, or Oak of Cappadocia.

Some Plants mentioned by Breynius, and taken out of Rauwolff's Hort. Sic. or else found in those Countries where Rauwolff Travelled.

Acaciae similis Mesopotamica minutissimis foliis, siliquâ integrâ contortâ, crassâ, & obtusâ; sive siliqua Nabathaea nobis,

Azadirachta foliis ramosis majoribus Syriaca sive vul∣garis flore caeruleo maj. Perlato, falso Sycomorus Italorum, Bellon. Astergir Rhasis, & incolis Zenselacht Rauwolff.

Horminum Syriacum, tomentosum, foliis Coronopi, sive profundè laciniatis Breyn. Horminum rarum foliis laciniatis Rauwolff. in Herbar. vivo.

Lapathum Rotundifolium montis Libani, semine maximo Breyn. Ribes Arabum Rauwolf.

Lycium Buxi foliis angustioribus Syriacum Breyn. Lyci∣um Dioscoridis Rauwolff. in Herbar. Hadhad Arabibus, & Zaroa incolis montis Libani, ejusdem. In Syria & Pa∣lestinâ observavit Rauwolffius.

Lycium Buxi foliis rotundioribus Syriacum vel Persicum Breyn. Hoc Lycium apud Rauwolffium cum priore con∣funditur.

Marrubium villosum Syriacum, sive montis Libani Breyn.

Melanthium Syriacum minus frutescens latifelium, Rutae flore, fructu tricapsulari, Breyn. Ruta voca••a Harmala J.B.

Melilotus minima Syriaca. Nephel sive Nephal, Iben∣baithar & Malasesae.

Plantago angustifolia minor lanuginosa Syriaca & Creti∣ca, pediculis & capitulis maturi••ate ad terram inflexis

Breyn. Leontopodium Alpin. Exot. Leontopodium Cre∣ticum C.B.

Plantago angustifolia p••niculis Lagopi C.B. Planta∣go quinquenervia cum globulis albis pilosis J.B. Catanance Dioscoridis Rauwolff. in Herbario vivo.

Satureia frutescens Arabica folio fimbriato hirsuto Breyn. Sathar Arabum Rauwolff.

Tithymalus (vel Tithymalo affinis) aphyllos dictus major latifolius, flore sanguineo aviculae capitulum repraesentante Breyn. An Planta lactaria Xabra & Camarronum Rhasis Rauwolff.

Jacea maxima Hicrosolymitana Alpin. Exot.

Marum Syriacum foliis incisis.

CHAP. IX.

Here follow some Epitaphs of the Christian Kings of Jerusalem, together with a short Relation of their Reigns and mighty Deeds.

IN the Year of our Lord Christ 1096, when Henry the Fourth was Emperor of the West, and Alexius the Grecian Emperor at Constantinople in the East. Pope Ʋrban the Second called a Council at Claremont in France, where they consulted together which way the Land of Promise might be delivered again from the Hands of the Infidels. Where it was concluded and agreed upon, to take the Field in common, and for their General they chose Gottefrid de Boulion, Count of B••nonia in France. Along with him went many Princes, Counts and Noblemen, viz. Baldwin and Eustachius his Brethren, and many more, and brought together an Army of Six hundred thousand Foot, and One hun∣dred thousand Horse: so they went in several Parties through H••g••ria, Greece, &c. till they had passed the Hellesp••nt, and came into Asia the L••ss, (now called Nat••lia, and belonging to the Turks) where they joyn'd again, and took some Towns, to wit, Nicea, Tarsus,

and also Antiochia situated in Caelosyria. Yet in these Actions were a great many Christians slain by the way, others were taken Prisoners, some were starved, a great many died of Sicknesses, that came by changing of the Air in these hot Countries; so that in three years time, for so long dured this March, there were hardly Forty thousand Men (as some write) left, of the afore∣named Sum that did arrive in the Land of Promise. These went with their Master and General Gottefrid de Boulion before the City of Jerusalem, wherein were a greater number of the Infidels, to defend it; yet they surrounded the City, and took it in a little time, and killed a great number of them. When they had taken the Town on the 15th. Day of July, in the Year 1099, and had reduced it, they laid down their Armors and Arms, and went to visit the Holy Sepulchre with great Devotion, and chose there unanimously their General King of Jerusalem, who at their request undertook the Government, would not be called King, nor Crowned with a Golden Crown in that place, where our Saviour that Arch-King had worn one of Thorns. After he had obtained this Victory, he also subdued some ad∣jacent Towns, viz. Joppe called Jassa, Porphria situa∣ted at the Foot of Mount Carmel (by the Arabians and Turks called Hayphe) Tiberias and the Consines of Galilea. He also overcame with a handful of his Men, the Captain of the Sultan, who had a great number of Men with him, and killed above Thirty thousand of them. But as nothing is lasting in human Affairs, he died in the Eleventh Month of his Reign, and was buried in the above-mentioned Chapel, and upon his Tomb-Stone is still to be read this following Epitaph.

Hic jacet inclitus dux Gottefridus de Boulion, qui totam istam terram acquisivit cultui Christiano: cujus anima regnet cum Christo. Amen.

After his Decease the Christians unanimously chose his Brother Baldewin King of Jerusalem in his place: He overcame with a small number of Men th•• King of Egypt, that was Two and twenty thousand strong, and

killed the greatest part of his Men. And when he died in the Eighteenth Year of his Reign, they chose Cousin Baldewin of Burgo, the Second of that Name, King. This was a great Warrior, and did many He∣roick Deeds with few Men against the Heathens; he overcame and took Prisoner Gatzim the Turkish Prince of the Lesser Asia, with a great number of Men; but soon after in the Fifth Year of his Reign, he was beaten in a Battel by the King of the Parthians, and carried away Prisoner. In the mean time, the Veneti∣ans and Genoueses came with Two hundred and seventy Ships, and dispersed and beat the Armada of the Sara∣cens, and sunk many of their Ships, and took also the strong Town of Tyrus, so that both by Sea and Land there was abundance of Blood shed. When the Ene∣mies saw this, that they set the King at liberty again in the Eighteent Month of his Imprisonmenth, for a Sum of Money; after that he did execute in the six fol∣lowing Years of his Reign, in order to an Enlarge∣ment of his Kingdom, many glorious and famous Deeds. He overthrew the King of the Ascalonites, who was assisted by the Egyptians, and fell upon Jeru∣salem in one single Battel, and also beat the King of Damascus in three several ones, as you may see by his Epitaph here underneath written.

Rex Baldewinus, Judas alter Machabaeus, Spes patriae, vigor ecclesiae, virtus utriusque Quem formidabant, cui dona, tributa ferebant Cedar, & Aegyptus, Dan, & homicida Damascus Proh, dolor, in modico clauditur hic tumulo.

In the Year 1131, the Crown was presented to Ful∣con, Count of Andegavia, and Son-in-law to the be∣fore-said Baldewin, who also obtained several Victories against the Persians and Turks. But in his time there arose some Differences among the Christians, and some Conspiracies, which proved afterwards very disadvan∣tageous to him, he lost also Edessa, a City in Mesopota∣mia, which King Baldewin the First had conquered be∣fore, which the Turks took by force from him. This

King left two Sons Baldewin and Alamric, and after he had reigned Eleven Years, he fell dead when he hunted a Hare on full speed. After him his Son Baldewin the Third was Crowned, who also died in the Twenty fourth Year of his Reign, after he had fought several Battels, and taken some Towns. Then his Brother Alamric came to the Crown, who was a great War∣rior, so that he was very fit for this Dignity, he ob∣tained many Victories against Sultan Saladin. But afterwards when the Scales were turned, he died also after his return from Egypt in the Year 1178, his Son Baldewin the Fourth, and the Seventh King, un∣dertook the Government of the Kingdom in the Thir∣teenth Year of his Reign. This, although he was le∣prous, yet he managed his Business very well, and de∣fended his Dominions courageously and gloriously a∣gainst the Infidels. And because he would not be mar∣ried by reason of his Distemper, therefore he married his Sister Sibylla to a Marquis of Monteferrato, called William. She was brought to Bed, in the first year, of a Son, and called him after his Uncle Baldewin. But when William died, he married her again to Guido of Lusignan, Count of Joppe; with this condition, that after his Decease he should Rule the Kingdom for his Son-in-law, and be his Guardian so long until he came at age. But he behaving himself very ill in the mean while, the King grew so angry with him, that he would by no means suffer him to live in his Domi∣nions, and ordered another to fill up his place, one Raymond, a Count of Tripoli. Soon after the King died before his Son was quite Twenty Years old, and was also buried in the Temple of the holy Sepulchre. Within Eight Months after, did also die the true Heir of the Crown, the Son of Sibylla his Sister, and was also buried by the other Kings; so that we find still on three several Tomb-Stones that stand close one behind the other, viz.

Septimus in tumulo puer hic regnum tumulatus Est, Baldewinus regum de sanguine natus.

Quem tulit è mundo sors primae conditionis Ʋt Paradysiacae loca possideat regionis.

So by the Incitation of his Mother, Guido was pro∣claimed the last King.

Raymund the Count of Tripoli, was extremely dis∣gusted at this Election, being that the Kingdom was already recommended to him, wherefore he resolved to go to war with him, and that he might be strong e∣nough for him, he made a League with Sultan Saladin, to his own Grief and Ruine. For when the Sultan saw these Differences between them two, he raised suddenly a great Army, and took Jerusalem, and the whole Country by force of Arms. So the Kingdom of Jeru∣salem, after the Christians had been possessed of it Eighty eight Years, and Nineteen Days, was retaken a∣gain by the Infidels, not without great Loss and Damage.

Not long after, the Infidels did pull down the Walls of the City, turned the Churches into Stables (saving the Temple of Solomon) and spoiled the holy Sepulchre of our Lord Christ, which in all the other Wars did still remain intire, so that only one side of the Rock thereof is now to be seen. This was done by the Infi∣dels on purpose, to shew us the foolish Zeal we have to conquer and visit the holy Grave and City, as if Christ were still in it. This and other places had been quite demolished also, had it not been for the Eastern Christians, the Armenians, Surians, &c. which did stop their Fury, by giving of them a great Sum of Money, and so redeemed it.

CHAP. X.

A Common Account of several sorts of Christi∣ans, but chiefly of them that are always to be found in the Temple of Mount Calva∣ria: And also how these, and many other Strangers, are treated by the Turkish Em∣peror (as by their chief Head, to whom they generally are subjected) and his Officers.

IN the Temple of Mount Calvaria live Christians of several Nations; as Latins, or Italians, Abyssins, Graecians, Armenians, Georgians, Nestorians, Syrians, Jacobites, &c. which for the most part are Priests and Friers, which are of so different Opinions in many Articles of Faith, that many of them might sooner be reckon'd amongst the Superstitious and Hereticks than Christians; wherefore each of them have their pecu∣liar Habitation and Chapel, that they may perform their Devotion undisturbed by one another. The Tur∣kish Emperor also lets them alone, and doth not at all trouble them for their Religion, nor endeavour to bring them over to the Mahumetan Religion and Al∣coran; and is very well contented to receive his Yearly Tribute, which is exactly demanded as it cometh to be due. I have seen many of them in the Temple, to go up and down in their peculiar Habit, and once I did attend at their Devotion, so that I easily passed away the time, that the Turks kept us Locked up in it.

Their Pilgrims resort thither Yearly, chiefly against the great Feasts or Holy Days, in great Numbers, to see the holy Places, not only from the Eastern, but also from the Western Countries: These that are under the subjection of the Sultan, which they are almost all of them (except the Latins and Abyssins) must pay him Yearly the fourth part of all their Revenues: He that

hath four Olive, Almond, or Quince-Trees, must yield one of them to be the Emperors. So in their Harvest, every fourth Sheaf is also his; their Harvest beginneth in the beginning of April, and endeth in May, as you may see, Deut. chap. 16. vers. 9. Seven weeks (that is from Easter to Whitsonday) shalt thou number unto thee: begin to number the seven weeks from such time as thou beginnest to put the sickle to the corn. Besides this Imposition, they have another; that is, They must pay Yearly for every Head that is Male, the Poor as well as the Rich, one Ducat, and some∣times two, chiefly when the Sultan intendeth to go to War with the Christians; then he beginneth to lay these Taxes upon them a Year before-hand, and hath it Gathered in. He that hath not wherewithal to pay it, is forced either to sell one or the other of his Chil∣dren to perpetual Slavery, or else to give one of them to the Grand Turk, according to his liking to be his own for ever: And what is more, he sendeth every 4th or 5th Year through all his Dominions his Emissa∣ries, viz. Wallachia, Servia, Bosnia, Albania, Colchid, &c. to fetch away every third Son of his Christian Subjects, and they always chuse that which they like best; and so they bring together a great Number, and call them Azanoglans, and give them to the Janizaries to be their Servants. These have in some chief places their Exer∣cises from their Infancy, that in time they may be fit to be made Officers and Commanders in time of War. In this the Turks exercise great Cruelty and Pride, they spare no Body, for if a Christian doth possess some small matter of Riches, he must either keep it very privately, or else with a great deal of discretion say, That it is all belonging to his Emperor and him. So if the Grand Signior hath occasion for any thing of theirs whatsoever, it must be granted him without any refu∣sal: But what a trouble and heart-breaking this must be to the poor Parents, not only to have their Children that are free by Nature, forced to such a Brutal way of Life and Education, but, what is more, taken away from Baptism to Circumcision, from the Christian Congregation and Faith, into a severe Slavery and Su∣perstition,

wherein they are brought from their Duty to their Parents, into a mortal enmity against them and their other Relations, every Christian may with himself consider.

The Turks, where there is choice, take them that are single and young, because, they being still infirm, and but slightly grounded in their Faith, they are the sooner seduced, chiefly if they are Instructed in their Mahumetan Laws, and Educated therein for a while, for then they soon forget their own Faith, and grow in theirs, and so as they grow up in Years, they also grow in their Malice, and become to be worse than they themselves, as daily Experience doth sufficiently testifie.

Of the same stamp are also these Christians, that af∣ter they have been taken Prisoners in the War, turn Ma∣malucks (which they call in their Language Haracs) and are Circumcised. These are free from all Imposition as well as the Turks, save only the Tenth, but dare not go away without their Masters leave, upon pain of Death; if they are taken, they are according to their Law, without any Tryal, Sentenced and Condemned to be burnt. And these also are confirm'd and obdu∣rated in their impious and base Life, that they forget God and themselves, never think of coming home again to hear the Gospel Preached, or to see their Friends and Relations again. Yet the Prisoners are not so ve∣ry much pressed by the Turks to deny their Faith and turn, except there should be found one or more great Persons among them, for such they always use to press more, and endeavour to turn them one way or other, and promise them great Preferment if they will declare for their Religion; for they are in hopes, that if they could perswade them, a great many more of the lit∣tle ones would also come over with them. If such are perswaded by them and turn, they are entertained by the Turks very Honorably, and called Tscheleby, that is, Gentlemen, and endued with great Revenues, but yet they do not easily confide in them, or put any Trust into their hands, and do not esteem such incon∣stant and faltering Men in their Heart, although they

carry themselves very friendly before their faces, for they make account, That he that will easily deny his Religion, will also betray his Prince and Country if occasion should serve. I have known in these Coun∣tries some Slaves, whom their Masters that bought them as their Servants, did very much press to be Cir∣cumcised, but when they did mightily resist, and ex∣cuse themselves, and say, That they could not admit thereof with a safe Conscience, and if by force they should take away their Prepuce and Circumcise them, that notwithstanding all that, they could not Circumcise their Hearts, and therefore they desired them not to trouble themselves any further with them, they were for all that ready and willing to serve them honestly and faithfully to the utmost of their power: So their Masters have been satisfied with this Answer, and have pressed them no more. But if it should happen that a Christian should be taken in one of their Mosques (for they as unclean Men are forbid to come there) or should dispute with them, or speak ill of their Pro∣phet Mahomet and his Laws, or should pronounce these words, which are almost written every where in their Churches, and underneath their Gates, in their Arabian Language: Leila hillalla Mahammet rasur alla; that is to say, O God only God, and Mahomet a Prophet of God, he must (because they are an Epitome of their Religion, Confession, Belief and Laws) suffer himself to be Circumcised, or else lose his Life. For being that Mahomet did defend his false Doctrine described in the Alcoran, rather with the Sword than with Rea∣son and true Grounds, that it might not be discovered, and so his Adherents leave him. Mahomet to prevent this, by the Devils Inspiration, hath strengthen'd it with strong Points and Articles, viz. That no body shall discourse or dispute with any Sectaries whatsoever, much less believe them, or read their Books, as such wherein is no ground to be found, because all that is good and true in the Old Testament, testified by the Jews, and in the New one, by the Christians, is by him taken out and Transcribed into his Alcoran, and there∣fore it must be believed and kept as the Word of God,

without any scruple or search; and he that speaketh or writeth against it, must fall by the Sword, and besides be Damned for ever.

Who doth not see that this subtile Mahomet did this, that any Body that he gets once into his Snares, or that falls into his Net, might be so intangled, that he must be forced to keep there, to perish and to be dam∣ned for ever; notwithstanding all his sweet Promises of great Priviledges, Salaries, and Permission of Sodomitish Sins, Robbing, Burning, Perjury, &c. which Trans∣gressions they regard but very little, seeing that ac∣cording to their Prophets promise, if they Pray but of∣ten, and Wash themselves often, they do not only not hurt them, but by continual usage of the before-men∣tioned means, they become to be cleaner than we Christians from our Sins, in the Bath of Regeneration. To these Traditions of Mahomet, the Turks and Moors stick so close, and believe them implicitly, according to the Commands of Mahomet; so that one, although he be of another Opinion, because they will hear no Contradiction nor Objection, is forced to hold his Tongue and say nothing. And in case you should ask them, why they are forbid to Eat Pork, or Drink Wine? they answer and say, That their Parents did so before them, partly because they are unclean, and partly be∣cause they are forbid it in their Alcoran; or else that if they should over-fill themselves with it, so that they should bring it up again, it might contaminate their Cloaths, and so they should commit a great Rusticity; so that they know not how to give any reason concern∣ing their Religion. Wherefore their Law ought to be called or reputed Cruel, and a Tyrannical one, that is rather upheld by the Sword than by Reason and Justice; which also appeareth from thence, that they carry a Naked Scymiter before the Noble-mens Sons, when they carry them about the Streets in order to be Cir∣cumcised; and also their Priests, chiefly those that are called Antippi, after Prayers and Sermon, shew unto the People from a high place, a burning Torch in one Hand, and a Naked Scymiter in the other, to encou∣rage their own Adherents, and to frighten those that

are of a contrary Opinion; and so Mahomet pretends to his Adherents, that God hath bidden him to Conquer all other Nations by the Sword, until they confess that there is no other God besides God, and Mahomet his Prophet; or else agree to pay him Yearly Tribute, and to be his obedient Subjects; if they follow his di∣rections, his Laws will endure so long as they defend them by the Sword. Now how strictly they have hi∣therto prosecuted these his Commandments, the Inhabi∣tants of the Eastern Countries have formerly, to their grief, sufficiently Experienced, viz. Asia, Syria, the Land of Promise, Aegypt, Thracia, Greece, &c. which they have not only Conquered, and to their own great Improvement subdued, but have also infected them with their Poisonous Doctrine to such a degree, that in these our times there are but very few to be found in these parts, that do adhere unto the true Religion.

It being so then, that God Almighty hath visited them with these great punishments, by reason of their manifold Sins and Ingratitude, for his Holy and Sacred Word, and that we also are guilty of these and the like Sins and Vices, we cannot wonder that the Al∣mighty and Just God, should, according to our Deme∣rits, send also such a horrid Tyrant against us, to terri∣fie us very much, and come so near to us, that we must expect every moment (except we amend) the like Punishments and Execution. And so we hear dai∣ly, to our grief, that this potent Tyrant is continually at Work, and taketh one strong Town after another; and what is more, they take often in their Excursions a great number of our Brethren and Sisters, part whereof they Murder Barbarously, others they carry away into perpetual Slavery. When they have ob∣tained a Victory, and have got Booty, there is ready, and at hand, several Sutlers, that drive a great Trade with Buying and Selling poor Prisoners; these buy them of the Soldiers, Chain them (after they have given the Grand Turk the Tenths thereof, according to his Choice and Pleasure) together with long Chains, and so drive them away miserably, as if they were Beasts, to the chief Trading Towns, to sell them with profit

again to other•• that come thither from Foreign Coun∣tries. There you find Weekly, in their Betzars or Ex∣changes, many Prisoners of several Nations, viz. Chri∣stians, Moors, Arabians, Indians, Abyssins, and amongst them Young and Old, Men and Women, some where∣of are White, and others Black; thither come the Chapmen and cheapen them; they have liberty to look upon their Naked Bodies, as if they were Beasts, and to feel them, whether they are sound in their Limbs, or whether they have any defect, which they always fear. If they like their Bargain, the Buyers take them home with them into their small Habitations or Tents, and put them (chiefly those that were given to Idleness, and have Learned no Trade) to any sort of hard La∣bour, and all that they get so belongeth to their Ma∣ster, who disposeth of it as he pleaseth. Wherefore those that keep many Men and Maids, esteem them∣selves richer for it; and sometimes they Marry them together, and when they beget Children, they are Slaves as well as themselves, and he hath power to Educate them, and to dispose of them as he pleaseth. Wherefore the Christians (that to their Temporal Pun∣ishment, they may not also acquire Eternal ones, for their Childrens sake) in these Countries do seldom Marry, but rather study how to make their escape (if they are not hindered for want of that Language, and by Unskilfulness of the Roads); or else they go with their Master before a Justice, in their Language called Cadi, and there buy their Liberty for a Sum of Money, or else agree with him for a certain time, and so make a Contract with him concerning their Liberty, which commonly these do that intend to persevere in their Christian Religion, or undertake to get something by their Handy-work, that when the time is past, or the Money paid, the Justice may, according to the In∣strument before made by him at their Request, declare him Free, and give him a Pass, to shew upon the Road, that he may not be molested. Other ways to get their Liberty there are but very few, except their Master should happen to Dye, which commonly in their last Will, declare that their bought Servants, after the open∣ing

of it, shall have their Liberty. Sometimes it hap∣pens, that from others they buy false Letters (which are soon found out in these Countries) and so by the help of them get away Clandestinely.

But yet that but a few Slaves come from thence to us again, the chief reason is not, as many think, Be∣cause the Turks press them to change their Religion; for although they sometimes threaten them, as they use to do or treat them somewhat more hardly than is usual in their Servitude, as Christians also do very often, but rather their Secure and Impenitent Life which they lead, forgetting God and his holy Word to that degree, that they know not how to give an Account of their Christian Faith and Religion; nay (what is more) they know not the difference between these two Religions, which are so vastly differing, although they would, if they did know it, rather suffer Death than be seduced from the true Religion, and precipitate the Soul, toge∣ther with the Body, into Damnation. When then the knowledge of the Truth is gone, and Faith almost, if not quite Extinguished, so that there is but little hope left of their Salvation, they daily forsake their Reli∣gion as fast as Worm-eaten Fruit falls from the Tree; begin to think how to compensate their bodily suffer∣ing, they may lay up and get Money by Robbing and Burning, and so get Privileges, to live according to their own Will and Pleasure, like Beasts in daily Un∣cleanness; and when they are harden'd in it, they come at last to such a degree of Sottishness and Brutality, that (as St. Peter saith) they believe the chief good of this World to consist in Voluptuousness, wherein they perish at length, and must expect the Wages of Un∣righteousness with the rest.

When the Turks have Conquered one or more (which they discern at first by their Fore-finger, which these that have a mind to turn use to shew to them first, as a Token by lifting of it up over their Heads, chiefly in their Mosques) they rejoyce in them mightily, and are clearly of Opinion, That this their Work is precious and good before God, and that their Religion is confirmed and upheld by the assenting of many; wherefore they

soon meet together, to confirm these Turn-coats with their usual Ceremonies, and so to make them true Turks. First they lay before them a Cross, whereon they must trample three times, spit upon it, and repeat every time some words after them taken out of the Al∣coran; so the Christians that will be made Turks pro∣nounce them after them. When this is done, three of them are ready with their Bows, and shoot together up, and give them before the Arrows fall down again Tur∣kish Names: Then (if they be Men) they set them up upon high Horses, put them on their best Clothes, and Dress them neatly, and so lead them for two days together through all the Streets, that every body may see them, and know them to be such as do adhere to their Religion, and so to be free to walk and deal among them without any hinderance. If they are of an higher degree, and of great Authority, sometimes Ride along with them some Turkish Gentlemen of Qua∣lity, in their best Dress, accompanied by many Janiza∣ries, who fire here and there in the Streets for Joy, but chiefly in those places where they spy Christians. They have with them all sorts of Musical Instruments, viz. The Drums, great Drums, and little Drums, (which they beat at that same time both above and below) Hautboys, and others: They also carry in this their Procession long Streamers upon long Poles, almost like unto them that we see in the Cross-walks in our Frie∣ries; and besides, the Rabble that run before and behind make such a noise, that one cannot hear the other. When all this is over, they Circumcise them at last on the third Day, and then they reckon such an one to be a true Musulman, that is, A Circumcised one, who hath leave to go to their Mosques without being hin∣dered, to buy their Books and Writings, and to Read them, which must not be sold to others that are not of their Religion, upon pain of great punishment, that they may not come into unclean hands, or to be trod upon as Writings of no Worth.

Their Jewes, whereof there are a great many among them, and are called by them Choifut or Chifoutler, ex∣cel ours in Cheating and Cozening by far, and there

is no doubt but they would oftentimes renounce their Religion to make profit: But the Turks envy them more than we Christians, they do not Trust them, they reckon them not worthy to Eat with them as they do with us Christians, nor Marry with them; much less will they receive them as any thing related to their Religion, except it be, that before for some days they have frequented the Christian Churches, and there are Baptized, and have often Eaten Pork, that unclean Meat that is also forbidden unto them. When they have done thus, they proceed with them after the same manner as is before said.

Concerning the Christians that live among the Turks, as the Surians, Armenians, &c. they have here and there in great Trading Cities, their pecu∣liar Streets which they Inhabit, and they are com∣monly without in the Suburbs; and thereabout also small and low Churches, where they perform their Devotions. When they begin to be decayed of Age, or are burnt by Fire, or destroyed in War time, if they will have them built up again, they must have leave first of the Turkish Magistrate, and lay down a good Sum of Money, which grants nothing except you grease them well.

The Turks (to save Charges) suffer no Bells nor Clocks, neither in their own nor other Temples, nor will they give leave to the Christians to Ring to Church with them, so that all day long you neither hear a Bell Toll, nor a Clock Strike. Instead thereof, the Turks have, according to their Alcoran, their Five Hours set, which their Priests call out from the high Steeples, and in the Ex∣changes, with a loud Voice, and with stopped Ears, and cry, Alla Haickbar, that is, God is true; and then, Leila hillalla, Mahammet rasur alla; each of them he repeats twice, to call the people to their Devotions. But the Christians have a Servant, that at the Hours of Prayers and Sermon goeth about with a strong Cudgel, and striketh, in every Street, on one or more Doors made strong for that purpose, as if it were upon an Anvil, several times, which resounds through all the Street.

When the Christians pray, they observe almost the same Ceremonies with the Turks, Persians and Arabians, &c. they turn themselves towards the South, they speak low in the beginning, lift up their Hands, bend their Heads and whole Bodies downwards; then they fall down upon their Knees, kiss the Earth several times, and pray with great Devotion, which Custom the Jews keep also, and that without doubt, because the Patriarchs used the same in their Prayers, as we read in the Seventeenth Chapter of Genesis, Verse 3. and 17. And Abraham fell on his face: Exod. xvii. 11. When Moses held up his hands Israel prevailed: and in 1 Kings xviii. 42. is said▪ And Elijah went up to the top of Carmel, and he cast himself down upon the earth, and put his face between his knees: and also Nehemiah viii. 6. And all the people answered, Amen, Amen, with lifting up their hands: and they bowed their heads, and worshipped the Lord with their faces to the ground. So did Christ himself, lying on his Face, vehemently pray the Third Time. If we Christians did but mind the Fervency and Zeal of the Heathens and Superstitious in their Prayers, we should see what reason we have to awake from our Laziness and Coldness in our Prayers, and to pray with earnestness. There live in Turkey so many Christians, that they inhabit the greatest part of that Country; wherefore considering their great number (to speak according to all human probability) it would be an easie matter to subdue the Turks without the as∣sistance of any outlandish Power, and to drive them out of their own Countries, did not God Almighty, who visiteth us for our manifold Sins, set them over us as a Punishment: For although the Turkish Emperor sets his B••glerby's and Bashaws, as great and mighty Lords here and there over great Provinces and Coun∣tries, to rule them with great Zeal and Severity, and and to order all Business according to his pleasure, so that among so great a number of People, and consider∣ing their severe Reign and Government (where small Transgressions are vigorously punished) there is not easily to be feared an Insurrection: yet he could not be half so strong, without the help of the Christians

that live amongst his People, nor be able to bring to∣gether such mighty and numerous Armies of good and experienced Soldiers.

The Christians, for the most part, wear as well as the Turks long Cloaths, and gird their Loins with fine and soft Rollers, some of Silk, and others made of Cotton; in them they keep still to this day their Money, chiefly the poor, as some with us, that have no Pockets, do in their Handkerchiefs, tied up in a strong knot; the same without doubt did the Ancients wear, as the Words of Christ our Saviour, Matth. x. 9. give us to understand; where he speaketh to his Disciples, and sends them into the whole world, saying, Provide neither gold, nor silver, nor brass in your purses. (In the German Bible we read Girdles.) With such a one, without doubt, the Prophet Agabus, did tie the Hands and of the Apostle Paul in Cesarea in the House of Philip, when he would make him to understand, that the Jews at Jerusalem would take and tie him, and at length de∣liver him up into the hands of the Heathens, as you may read in the 21st. of the Acts. Now altho the Christians go as well as the Turks in long Cloaths, so that that way they are hardly to be distinguished from one another; yet they are distinguished by the peculiar Colours of their Turbants, which they wear; for the Turks wear white ones, as also do the Arabians, and Persians, only these put behind to it a red coloured Cloth, and the others make it up in another form, and let one of the ends hang down behind, to defend their naked Necks from the excessive heat of the Sun. But the uncircumci∣sed that have a differing Religion are not allowed to wear a white one, unless another Colour be mixed with it, much less a green one; which Colour being their Ma∣homets, and esteemed to be holy, is not allowed to be worn by any Body, neither Turks nor Christians, (except to their Priests and some Pilgrims that have been on Pil∣grimage to Mecha) neither in Turbants nor other Cloaths. So the Armenians have blue; the Nestorians flesh colored: the Grecians, Maronites, Surians, and others have white ones with blue Lists wrought into them. But the Jews have yellow ones, as they have in our Country

yellow Bonnets: yet when they have a mind to travel afar off, as into Mesopotamia, Assyria, Persia, or into the Indies, &c. (seeing that the Turks hate them, that so they may travel the securer, and with little Charges) they put on white ones by the way, and pretend to be Tschelebys, or Noble Men, nay sometimes Messengers of the Cambre, which they may easily do, because they understand the Languages, yet not without great dan∣ger. But they stay not long in a place, that they may not come to be known.

There are also some Jewish Physicians, which instead of the yellow Turbants, wear red high Hats, of Scar∣let, they exceed in number the Turkish ones, that go cloathed like the common people. They are common∣ly more Able and Learned, because they can read the Physical Books of Galen and Avicen, &c. in their ori∣ginal Languages Greek and Arabick; which they gene∣rally understand. But for the Latin Tongue, very few of them understand that, neither have they any good Books in it, but what they have received in the ta∣king the Island Cyprus.

So much of the Christians in general. But because I have made mention of Christians of several Nations, that inhabit the Temple of Mount Calvaria, what pla∣ces in and without the Town of Jerusalem, each of them are possessed of, and with what Errors in Religion they are contaminated, I cannot but relate in particular of each of them, as much as I could understand and learn in that little time.

CHAP. XI

Of the GREEKS.

AS the ancient Greeks in former days did excel almost all other Nations in Wisdom and Understanding, and used to have their Children instructed at home in thir own Universities in all manner of Learning; so

in our times we find the contrary; for in all Greece there is not one University to be found, where such Discipline and Learning flourishes as did anciently: just so is the desire of Learning, and instructing their Children extinguished in them. They take greater de∣light in idle Discourses, and rather love Idleness, which they have learned very well, since they truckle under the Turkish Yoak. 'Tis true, they write the Greek Language, but which is as corrupt and different from the Ancient, as the Italian is from the Latin. The Turks despise them for their Laziness and Cowardize, and on the contrary they love the Germans, French and Italians, and praise them, saying, That they are stout and courageous Soldiers; they call them all by the same Name Franci, because the Divisions of our Country are unknown to most of them.

In former Ages they had here and there in large and eminent Towns, instead of the Pope (whom they will not obey, nor be subject unto) their Patriarch, Archbishops and Bishops, whereof some are still kept up: but after the Turks did take and possess themselves of their Country, there is fewer of them in number, and they have smaller Revenues.

Without their Country, they have in great trading Cities, as Cayro, Alepo, Antiochia of Syria, Venice, &c. their peculiar Churches, and chiefly in some holy places in the Land of Promise. As at Jerusalem the Temple of Mount Calvaria, the place of Sculls whereon Christ was Crucified: and also the beautiful Chancel that is in the middle of the Church: wherein is a round hole about a span over in a stone, which is, as they pretend, the middle of the Earth, according to the Words of the Kingly Prophet David, when he says: God, who now is my King from the beginning, has wrought our selves on the middle of the Earth. Besides these, they have ano∣ther called the Holy Cross, about an English Mile out of Town, which, as they pretend, is built on the same place where the Tree did grow, whereof they made the Cross of Christ. Besides this they have a great many more which I reckon unnecessary to mention here.

Some of their Church-Doors are so low, that you must stoop when you will go through them.

They believe that the Holy Ghost doth proceed only from the Father, and not from the Son. They keep yearly two great Fasts, and they eat Flesh upon the Sabbath, or Saturday, at pleasure: they sing the Mass in their own Language, that every Body may un∣derstand it. In their Churches they suffer no embossed Work, nor carved Images, but have plain Pictures on Boards, or on the Walls. They do not believe a Pur∣gatory (as the Papists there called Latini) nor that our Praying, Fasting or Offering, for the Dead, can do them any good. And they are mightily displeased, that the Roman Priests do not, according to the plain words of St. Paul, marry as well as they, nor give the Lords Holy Supper in both kinds, as our Lord himself did institute it. Wherefore they condemn such Er∣rors of the Popish Church, and excommunicate the Pope and his Adherents on the holy Friday yearly. And because they reckon them to be superstitious, they will not permit them to say Mass upon their Altars; but if they should do it, they accuse them before the Turkish Magistrates.

So it happened when I first came over, that they were very angry with a Papist that had said Mass upon their Altar, and so had profaned it, wherefore they did immediately consecrate the Altar again, and had the Priest before the Cadi: and they brought it so far, that he was mulcted Five hundred Ducats, to pay in a short time. When he thought that the Punishmenr was greater than the Trespass or Transgression, he did seek for help at Alepo and Tripoli by the French and Italian Consul, but did obtain no great matter, so that he was still in election to pay the Forfeiture.

CHAP, XII.

Of the SURIANS that esteem themselves to be Christians.

AMong the Eastern Christians we also find them that are called Surians, whereof there is a great many, but chiefly in Syria. They have like unto the Jews in several Towns their peculiar Churches. In Jerusalem they live in the Church of St. Mark, which stands in the place, where the House stood formerly, at the Door whereof St. Peter the Apostle did knock, when the Angel had delivered him out of Prison.

In their Religion they follow for the greatest part the Greeks; they Administer the Sacrament in Leavened Bread: and they say their Masses like unto them in the vulgar Arabian Tongue. They are a sort of poor, naked, covetous and helpless People; their Gowns reach only to their Knees, as those of the Maronites, some whereof are wrought of course Goats Hair, striped black and white, such as the Arabians make use of commonly, and almost alike unto their Mescha, which they use for Sacks and Tents, and they wear nothing underneath them, but Shirts without Neck∣bands, as is usual in all the Eastern Countries, they wear High Shoes, which serve them for Stockings and Breeches also, being tied up with Straps. They are subject unto the Turks, who make use of them as La∣bourers, both by Water and Land. They also mind their Trade more than their Religion; wherefore ha∣ving lived so long among the Turks, they have already assumed their Customs and Manners in Temporal and Spiritual Affairs, and are thereby become so confident and secure, that now adays the Difference between these two Religions are esteemed by them to be small and frivolous. If a Christian hath to deal with them, and desireth to buy something of them, either Opium,

Scammony, or any other the like Drug, which they com∣monly falsifie, he must look to himself as if he had to deal with Jews.

CHAP. XIII.

Of the GEORGIANS.

NEar unto the glorious City of Trapozinta, situated on the Euxine Sea, beginneth the Country of the Geor∣gians, and butts toward the South upon Armenia. These are very civil and simple People, but yet strong and brave Warriors; they esteem and honor among other Saints, but chiefly for warlike Businesses, as their Patron, the Knight St. George, from whom they take their Denomination. Their Merchants come very of∣ten in great Caravans to Alepo, and are, according to all appearance in their shape and posture like unto the Persians, only that these are more whitish, and the o∣thers more tawny and browner: they wear also like them short flying Coats, and long and wide Drawers, &c. They have, as the rest, their Patriarchs and Bi∣shops, who altho they are differing and dissenting in some points; yet for the most part they follow the Doctrine and Errors of the Grecians, and so they have and use the same Writings and Offices. Their Priests are, as well as those of the Armenians, allowed to be married; but yet if either of them should happen to die, they must not marry again. In Jerusalem they are also possessed of their peculiar places, wherein they sing and exercise the Offices, and chiefly of one in the Church of Mount Calvaria, in the place near the Se∣pulchre of our Lord Christ, where he did first appear unto Mary Magdalen in the similitude of a Gardener, after his Resurrection.

CHAP. XIV.

Of the ARMENIANS and their Re∣ligion.

THE Armenians possess a large Countrey, which is chiefly divided into two parts, viz. The Lesser Armenia, which is now subject to the Turks; and the Greater, now called Turco-Mannia by some, which is partly belonging to the Sophy King of Persia. In it arise two great Rivers, the Euphrates and the Tigris, which run a great way toward the South, mix together below Bagadet, and at length fall into the Persian Gulf, by the Town Balsora or Batzera. They are pious and honest People, innocent, but very zealous in their Reli∣gion, and receive Strangers readily that come to them, and give them Lodging, as I have often found it in my Travels. They are also very much inclined to help and assist the poor Slaves, that are under Turkish Con∣finement, and ready to help them out. Their Mer∣chants, whereof there are many amongst them, are di∣spersed not only over all Turkey, but also Persia, the In∣dies, and many other Countries; wherefore they have in all chief Towns of Trading, as Antiochia, Alepo situated in Coelosyria, Orpha, &c. their peculiar Ware∣houses and Churches: and also in Jerusalem (whither they go in great numbers) the beautiful Church of St. Jacob the Greater: and also below near to the place of Sculls, another Chapel locked up, &c. and have commonly before their Chancels large Hangings, be∣hind which the Priests keep separated from the People.

These, although they agree in very many Points and Articles exactly with those of the Reformed Religion, yet notwithstanding they have some Errors worth to be rejected, and some scandalous Customs besides. So you may see them here and there cry over the Graves of their deceased Friends: for to give them Visits they go out in the morning early, the greater part of them

old Women, and there they make such Mourning and and Howling, that the Travellers that come by (for their Graves or burying places are generally out of Town near the High Ways) may hear them a great way off. There you shall see them sit, some folding their Hands over their Heads, and looking mourn∣fully: others fetching great Sighs, beating on their Breasts: others spreading themselves over the Graves, as if they would embrace their Friends, and take them in their Arms. In the mean while their Priests go a∣bout among them Reading and Praying, and sometimes they speak to some of them. When they have done mourning thus, and cast Sorrows from their Hearts sufficiently, they sit down together, eat, drink, and be merry.

They do not at all esteem the Popes of Rome, but have their own Prelates, which they honour with great and peculiar Reverence: neither do they believe any Indulgences, nor Purgatory.

Their Priests go in plain Habits: they have Wives as well as their Laymen: they let their Hair and Beards grow: they keep on Easter-day a great Feast, and soon after beginneth their Lent, which they keep strictly, and therein, as also on Wednesday and Friday all the year round, they eat neither Eggs nor Flesh, nor any thing else that ever had life in it, only Saturdays and Sundays they are allowed them, to refresh themselves: other Feasts and Holydays they do not keep any at all. In all these points, they rather agree with the Abyssines than the Romans: and also in these following, viz. That they eat not of unclean Meats, that are forbidden in the Old Testament; they admit to the Communion young and old without distinction: they baptize their Children in the Name of the Holy Trinity: they be∣lieve the Articles of our Christian Faith: they Preach, Sing, Pray, and perform all their Devotion, in the Vulgar Tongue, that every one may understand it: they use for the Interpretation of the Word of God, the Writings of John Chrysostom, and Gregory Nazianzen: they dare not, no more than all the other Nations that live amongst the Turks, (except the Maronites) make

use of any Clocks, to call People to Church, in place whereof they have strong wooden Tables, or some House-Doors prepared, several in each Street, where∣on they strike several Strokes with a great Cudgel, and so call People to Church.

CHAP. XV.

Of the NESTORIANS.

TOwards the East are other People which esteem themselves Christians, and among the rest chiefly the Nestorians, called after the Heretick Nestorius, who was a Bishop at Constantinople. Some of their Priests live upon the Mount Calvaria in the Temple, and there are a great many Adherents to this Sect, most of them living in Mesopotamia, Chaldaea and Assyria, but chiefly in the mountainous Country of the Curtans, called Carduci by Ptolomy, which they almost quite possess, and have poisoned with their base and obnoxious Error, as if it were by an infectious Air; for in pas∣sing through I have found many of them in their Cities, as Hapril, Carcuck, Mosel, formerly called Ninive. They are strong and warlike People, but full of Vices, and from their Infancy given to robbing. They inhabit towards North and East, as is before said upon the Ar∣menians and Medes: and they are a very ancient Peo∣ple, whereof chiefly Xenophon maketh mention under the name of Carducci, and are called to this day Curters. They speak their peculiar Language, which neither the Arabians, Armenians, nor Turks do understand: they are of a Brownish Colour, like unto the Surians and Maronites, and wear the same Cloth or Habiliments, that one cannot readily discern or distinguish one from the other, save only by their flesh-coloured Lists in their Turbants. The Grand Signior is their Head, whom they obey, and they are kept and respected very well by the Turks, partly that he may not give them occasion

for an Insurrection (because they are upon the Bor∣ders) and partly because Mahomet hath charged them to be kind to them before others, and that the rather because he had a Friar of their Sect called Sergius for his Tutor, who did baptize him, and counselled and assisted him to make such Laws, and to give them to his Adherents; and so you may still see, that they agree more than any other Sect with the Saracens. For whereas they believe, that in Christ (according to his two Natures (are two distinct persons, one of the Godhead, the other of the Manhood. They will not allow any more than Mahomet; the Virgin Mary to to be the Mother of God, but the Mother of Christ, according to his human Nature. They have a Prelate in stead of the Pope whom they call Jacelich. They bless and give the Sacrament as the Surians do, and use in their Spiritual Services the Chaldean Language, else they speak the common of their Provinces, viz. in their own Country, as is abovesaid, their own Language; in Chaldea and Mesopotamia commonly the Arabian and Saracen Language. So in Assyria beyond the River Tigris, where the two mighty Princes the Turk and the King of Persia do border upon one another, the Lan∣guage of the Turks, Persians, and Medes, altho they are quite differing. These and other Languages the holy Apostles did understand, and in them they did speak on the Day of Pentecost, when they received the Holy Ghost, as you may read in the Second Chapter of the Acts, Verse 5. where it is thus written: And there were dwelling at Jerusalem Jews, devout men out of our every nation under Heaven, each whereof heard the Apostles speak in his own Language wherein he was born, as that of the Parthians, Medes, Elamits or Persians, that of those also that live in Mesopotamia and Judea, &c. This Sect was rejected and condemned in the Counsil of Ephe∣sus.

CHAP XVI.

Of the JACOBITES called Golti.

IN the Temple of Mount Calvaria also live, in the Chapel behind the Sepulchre of Christ, another sort, that boast to be Christians, called Jacobites, after Jacob the Heretick, who was a Pupil of the Patriarch of Alexandria. They pretend to have been first converted to the Christian Religion by the holy Evangelist and A∣postle Matthew; but they did not adhere to it, but fell afterwards into a great many Errors, so that in our time they are divided into other Sects and Orders. For some have assumed the Order of S. Macharius, who with Eutychius did own or believe no more but one Nature in Christ: others that of St. Anthony, who was an Ere∣mite in the year of our Lord Christ 324, in Egypt. Others have their Male Children circumcised; but o∣thers, and the greater part, have their Children baptized with Fire, and have Crosses made on their Foreheads or Temples, according to the words of St. John the Baptist in the 3d. Chapter of St. Matthew, V. 11. He that cometh after me, shall baptise you with the Holy Ghost and with Fire: They live chiefly in Egypt, and in other adjacent places. They are generally subject unto the Turkish Sultan, they speak the vulgar Arabian Language, and a∣gree in most points, partly with the Abyssines, and part∣ly with the Surians. We saw many of their Wives go about in the Temple, they wear Hats near a Span high, which at top have a broad Brim like unto our Bonnets, else they are habited like unto the Surians. This Heresie was rejected and condemned in the Chal∣cedonian Council.

CHAP. XVII.

Of the Abyssins, Priest John called Le∣derwick, Subject unto the King of the Moors.

THese live at Jerusalem in the Temple of Mount Calvaria, just by the Church Door towards the left, and have through their Lodging a peculiar way, so that without hinderance, according to their pleasure they may go in and out; and pretend that their King hath made a peculiar Agreement to let his Subjects have Free-ingress and Re-gress. According to all ap∣pearance they are a Naked People, yet for all that they may be Rich and Able; they are of a dark brown colour. When we spoke to them by an Interpreter, they shew'd themselves very kind and friendly, and al∣ways did give with a great deal of discretion such An∣swers to our Questions, that one might easily conclude that they were of good Understanding, and well In∣structed and Grounded in their Religion. To their King is given, in the beginning of his Reign, the Sir-name of David, which else are called Lederwick, and by the Persians Amma, to shew and to make known by it, that they are derived from the Kingly Race and Stem of David and Solomon; and to prove this, they alledge the History of the Queen of Saba, called Mer∣querda, who, as we Read in Scripture, came from Rich Arabia, with many Camels Laden with Gold, Spices, and precious Stones, to Jerusalem, to see the great Wisdom and Glory of Solomon, whereof she had heard much. When she had been there a good while, and in the mean time was got with Child by Solo∣mon, and brought him a Son into the World called Meytich, she left him at Jerusalem, but she returned into her own Country again. Many Years after,

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when the Son was grown up, and came to his Under∣standing, his Father, seeing he had more Sons, was perswaded to send him home to his Mother, who had a greater Kingdom than he. So he did dispatch him, and sent along with him the chiefest of his Courtiers, and sent him away with a great Train, as did become a King. When he was come into his Kingdom, he en∣tertained these Lords and Gentlemen very Honorably, and promoted them before all others to the highest and best places, that they might the willinger stay with him. But all this would not prevail with them, but they grew daily more tired, and unwilling to stay longer in these strange and unaccustomed Countries; and this encreased daily more and more, and at length to that height, that they resolved that (if the King would not give them free leave) they would endeavor to make their escape Clandestinly against the Kings Will to Jerusalem in Judea. When this their design came before the King he was very angry, and ordered immediately, that a Mark should be burnt on their Foreheads, that every body might know them; and issued a Proclamation, That all his Subjects might watch them, and if any or more of them, that were a going away should be taken, they should detain them, and send them to him again. Now as at this time the Marks did begin, and then those had them that were of a great Race, so they are retained by their Posterity to this very day, as we still see in these times, that their Nobility have them on their Foreheads towards the right; yet not all, for there are some that wear them rather upon their Shields and Arms, &c. These marks are not all alike, for in some you see a Bear, a Dragons-Head, &c. in others a Lyon, a Wolf, or three crossed Arrows, &c. because every one hath that made that they give in their Coats of Arms; they colour it with an Oil which they call A••a••cinte and is brought to them from Greece. Be∣••s this Custom, they still keep in many things to the Ancie•• ones of the Jews, for they keep the Sabbath for their peculiar Holiday; and also they do not eat all sorts of flesh, nor any of them that are forbid as

Unclean in the Old Testament: They pretend that the Holy Apostle Philip hath, when he Travell'd with the Chamberlain of Candaces Queen of the Moors to Gaza, and Converted him there, allowed them this and other things, being Born Jews. Circumcision they believe unnecessary, and that it can neither profit nor hurt a Christian. And again, Baptism they believe to be necessary, wherefore through all his large Domi∣nions, they bring their Children to it on the third day, and Baptize them yet with Fire, in the Name of God the Father, the Son, and the holy Ghost, (whom they believe to proceed only from the Father, and not from the Son) according to the Words of St. Mathew, Chap. 3. Vers. 11. He shall Baptize you with the holy Ghost and with Fire. They take the Oil of Achalcinte, dip a Stick into it, and lay Frankincense upon it, and set it on Fire; and so they let some drops fall down, which do not hurt the Children, being mix'd with the Oil; and at last they make a Cross with it upon the left side of their Forehead near unto the Tem∣ple.

They begin their Lent about Easter, as the Arme∣nians, wherein the Lay-men Eat nothing else but 〈◊〉〈◊〉, Herbs, and Pulse; but their Priest generally nothing but Bread and Water, and so they do every Wednesday and Friday throughout all the Year. They Marry also according to the Words of St. Paul, That a Priest shall be a Husband of one Wife: They give the Lords Sup∣per to Young and Old alike in Leavened Bread in both kinds; and they confess their Sins like unto the Jaco∣bites, to no body but only God. The Portuguese that go to the Indies know them very well, and love them for being good Soldiers, and are glad if they will live among them, and go out and in with them.

CHAP. XVIII.

Of the MARONITES.

BEsides all these there is also a sort of Christians, who first after Maro the Heretick were called Ma∣ronites; who believed that their is but one Nature, Understanding, and Work in Christ, according to the Opinion of Macharius the Heretick, whom he follow∣eth diligently; but since they have by degrees left this, and are returned to the Popish Religion again. And although they are still of it, yet they give the Sa∣crament in both kinds to the Lay-men, as almost all other Nations do, according to the Words of the Insti∣tution of our Lord Christ. In all other Points they follow the Roman Religion more than any other Nation. Their Priests wear over their Clothes black hair Vest∣ments. They live for the most part in Syria, but chiefly up∣on the Promontory of Mount Libanus, where upon they have a Monastery within a days Journey of Tripoli called our Ladies, which is situated underneath a large Rock, wherein their Patriarch dwelleth, whom they respect very much, and kiss his Hands with their Knees bended, &c. whereof I have made mention here be∣fore. The Patriarchs are still to this day chosen by the Commons, and afterwards confirmed by the Pope; and so this (when he after the Decease of his Prede∣cessor, came into a Dispute with one of his Competi∣tors concerning the Election) did presently, unknown to his Adversary, go to Rome, and so obtained in per∣son the Patriarchal Seat from the Pope.

The Common People are in their Shape and Habits so like unto the Surians, and their Neighbours the Ara∣bians, that except by their Turbants none can know them from each other. They are a Couragious and War-like People, very well provided with Guns and

other Arms, as well as their Confederates the Trusci: And because they are not subject, nor pay any Contri∣bution unto the Turkish Sultan, therefore they still keep their Bells, and other Priviledges.

They speak the Arabian Language, and their Books are also written (as many as I could see of them in their Churches) with Arabian Characters or Letters, which they always kiss with great reverence when they take them up, or lay them down, according to the Custom of all other Eastern People or Nations, as well Heathens as Christians.

They keep a very severe Order, and never Eat Flesh, and on their Fasts neither Butter nor Eggs, but live upon Fruits, as Beans, Pease, French-Beans, and such other common Victuals. But yet if any Mer∣chants, or Pilgrims, come from Tripoli, or any other places, they let them want neither for Meat nor Drink; nay, they shew themselves to every body so benevo∣lent (as I have found it three several times) and ci∣vil, that one would wish to stay some time with them. These live not continually in the Temple of Mount Calvaria, but go often thither on Pilgrimages.

CHAP. XIX.

Of the Latinists or Papists.

THE Latinists or Papists, living at Jerusalem in the often before-named Temple, are Friers of the Order of the Lesser Franciscans; they chiefly possess the Holy Sepulcher of our Lord Jesus Christ, which they keep in very good order, and read their Hora's diligently, wherefore their Father stileth himself Guar∣dian of the Holy Sepulcher, and Mount Sion. Besides this, they are possessed of more Holy Places, as at Bethlehem the Stable, wherein our dear Lord Christ did lye in the Manger with the Ox and the Ass: In the

Mountains of Judea, the Temple of St. John the Bap∣tist: In Bethania, the Sepulcher wherein Lazarus had lain four days, when Christ raised him from the Dead, and here and there many others. These, as all know, are dispersed in a great many places and Kingdoms; nay, almost through all the World. Their Head is the Pope of Rome, who pretends to be the Vicegerent of Christ, and taketh upon himself so much Power, as to prescribe to all Men Laws according to his own pleasure, which Christendom finds every day to its great grief. Wherefore in the mean while they are grown into so many Divisions, Idolatry, and Ceremo∣nies, that they out-do quite all the before-named Na∣tions. But being that they are in these our times so very well described, that (thanks to God) they are very well known to every body, therefore I forbear to write more of them, and will only, before I conclude, make mention of these Brethren that live at Jerusa∣lem, only in a few Points, and say that these that live in the Monastery at Jerusalem are about 20 in number more or less, according as they go and come, and among them are Spaniards, Italians, French-men and Germans, &c. that commonly are sent thither by Kings and Princes; but being that they have more Churches and places in and without Jerusalem to provide for, their Father Guardian distributeth them, sends some to Bethlehem to look after the Manger of Christ, others upon the Hills of Judea; to the Mount of Olives, and towards Bethania, &c. but before all others, always two and two into the Temple of Mount Calvaria, to stay there for 14 days together. But being that the Temple is always Lock'd up, that the Priests that are within it may not want for Food, as well as others that are with them, therefore three holes, one bigger than the other, are made in the great Door of the Church, that through them all Necessaries of Meat and Drink may be conveyed to them. These that are thus Locked up in the Temple, do but look diligently after the Holy Sepulchre, and Read their Hora's, with Singing and Praying, and to look after the Lamps; but chiefly those that hang in the Sepulchre of Christ to

illuminate it. There are about twenty of these Lamps, one better and clearer than the other; they belong for the most part to great Persons, as Kings and Princes, whereof they have their Yearly Revenue, that is sent them by their Brethren; but chiefly from Italy and the Italian Princes, and the most Catholick King of Spain. But from Germany, England, and also now Cyprus the Isle, since it hath been taken by the Turks, they com∣plain they have nothing as they had in former Ages; and the Most Christian King of France, doth also al∣ready begin to forget them, which they have found some years since; and the number of the Pilgrims doth also decrease, which formerly used to flock thither in great numbers, and sometimes to reward them, besides Meat and Drink, very Nobly, which they find very prejudicial to them, seeing they have no Revenues of any other Lands, or the like.

They receive the Pilgrims, that come in to them, very kindly, and treat them very well with Meat and Drink, and shew them all the Holy Places, and keep them so long until they have seen every thing to their satisfaction, and are willing to depart.

They are but very meanly Clothed, like unto Poor Mendicants; they live very privately, and keep their concerns very close, because of the Arabian Horse-men or Beduins, that fall upon them daily, and Ravage these Countries continually, wherefore they are in great danger. When they come, you must at least give them Meat and Drink, if not other Booty, as I saw my own self at Bethlehem when I first arrived there, that twelve Horse-men, with Guns, Arrows, and Darts, very well Armed, came to the Gates of the Temple, and they were forced to satisfie them, before they would leave them, and to give them good words besides. So that they are not only sufficiently plagued by them, but also by the Sangiachs, and Cadis, the Turkish Magistrates at Jerusalem, who have continually their Eyes over them that are well to pass, for Cove∣tousness is so great with them, that if they can but hear of one that hath Money, they study Night and Day, how (if possible they can) they may right or

wrong make him punishable. So they lately accused the Eastern Christians falsely, and punished them in some hundred Ducats; whereat the Bassaw of Damas∣cus (under whose Command Jerusalem is) did wink, in hopes to have a great snack out of it.

CHAP. XX.

Of the Knights of the Temple of Jerusalem, the Order of the Johannites.

HAving made mention of these, I remember still an other Order, that is, The Johannites, or Knights Templars of Jerusalem, which did first begin in the Reign of Baldewin de Burgo, the second of that Name, and the third King of Jerusalem. This Order is more Secular than Divine, and therefore quite differing from all the rest, for they need not to say Mass, nor per∣form any other Devotion; but when they have heard Mass, and said so many Pater-Nosters and Ave-Maries, they have sufficiently discharged their Office. This Or∣der was first Invented by His Holiness the Pope to that end, and indued with many Priviledges, that they might resist and oppose the Turks, and that all Infidels and Hereticks might by them and their Adherents, by force of Arms, be driven and routed out of the Roman Empire. And that he might promote this design of his, more earnestly, he took in those chiefly that were well Born, and had great Revenues (as Princes, Counts, and other Noblemen). So it hath often happened for∣merly, chiefly when Popery was in a flourishing con∣dition, that along with the Pilgrims, that had a mind to see the Holy Places, and to go to the Land of Pro∣mise, many Persons of Quality came, moved thereun∣to out of great Zeal, together with them, to see them also, and to take upon them the Order of that Knight∣hood, in the Sepulchre of our Lord Christ, as the pro∣per place for that purpose. And besides that, other

considerations there were which moved them to it, viz. The high Title, and the Authority of the Place, and great Priviledges, whereby they hoped to be still preferred to greater Dignities. Now as every one of them had laid before them to consider these Points and Articles, which every one must promise and take an Oath to keep them strictly, some great and potent Men found it so severe and hard, (as you may see by that that followeth) that they were not only astonish∣ed at it, but refused openly to take it upon them. But what is laid before them that are made Knights, and also what Ceremonies are used in it, I thought convenient to mention here briefly.

If there be one or more of them ready for it, that have at the instance of the Guardian, according to the Ancient Custom, been at Confession, and also received the Sacrament, sub una Specie, under one Species, on Mount Calvaria, they are with great Ceremonies con∣ducted from thence into the holy Sepulchre, whither are also conveyed some other things that belong there∣unto, viz. A fine Book, a Sword richly tipped with Gold, with a red Velvet Girdle, a Chain weigh∣ing about a hundred Hungarian Du∣cats, whereon hangeth a Golden Cross of this Form and Shape,* 1.45 a pair of Spurs with red Velvet Straps, which are laid down one by another upon the Altar of the Se∣pulchre. As soon as the Gentleman cometh into it, they begin immedi∣diately to say Mass, and after that they Sing without some Latin Psalms. In the mean while the Gentleman lyeth down upon his Knees in the Sepulchre before the Guardian, until the Friers have done Singing. Then the Guardian bids all that stand about, to say Our Fa∣ther and an Ave-Mary, on behalf of the Gentleman that is to be Knighted. When this is done, he admo∣nisheth the Gentleman, before he taketh the Oath, to consider upon what condition he is admitted there; When this is done, he bids the standers by Pray for him once more, and then admonisheth the Gentleman again,

and telleth him also, That hereafter he must be in all things subject and obedient to the Roman Church; That he must fight and resist the Turks and Lutherans as Enemies and Hereticks, so long as his Blood and Heart is warm. Then the Guardian asketh him further, whether he doth receive all these Points (as they are written word by word, in that Book, and ordered by his Holiness the Pope, and subscribed by his own Hand) and whether he will Swear by the holy Sepul∣chre to keep them. Whereupon he consents to it pre∣sently, and promiseth with great eagerness and joy to keep it with all his Heart, and thanketh God that he hath made him worthy of this Blessing, and for having made him capable of it. After this the Monks begin again a long Song; and then the Guardian taketh up the three Pieces, the Chain, Sword and Spurs, and puts them on upon him, and so adorneth him as begin∣ning Knight. At last he taketh also the Book, and puts it before him, and telleth him once more what he is about, and what he is going to Swear. When he hath understood it, he kneeleth down again, and puts out his two Fingers, which the Guardian puts upon the red Cross in the Book, and readeth to him the Oath; the Contents whereof are these:

First, That upon his Conscience he do Swear there to these following Words, Not with a false Heart, but that he doth confess out of Zeal, with great eagerness, and with a clean Heart, and also Swear by Gods Om∣nipotence, the See of Rome, and his Holiness the Pope, that he is a good Catholick, Educated in that Religion from his Infancy to that present hour; and that he ne∣ver will go from it so long as he liveth, but will al∣ways Defend and Protect the Roman Church against the Lutheran, and their Adherents, with Words and Deeds, so long as his Heart is warm; and that he will never be in a place where any evil is taught, or spoke of his Holiness the Pope. Secondly, That he doth Swear by Gods Omnipotence, and the Pope at Rome, and the Cross of Jerusalem, that he is a Nobleman in the fifth Generation, both by Father and Mother. Thirdly, He Sweareth also, that hath so good Income that he need

not to follow Merchandizing, or any other Trade, nor to borrow Money, or to ask others for help, but that he hath so much that he can live upon his Revenues, and keep three Horses besides from year to year, for the Service of the Church of Rome. Nay, if necessity should urge, and others should rise against the Roman Church, to molest it, that he will then always be wil∣ling and ready, besides the three Horses, to assist her with all his utmost power. He must also promise that he will so long as he shall live, diligently attend at Mass, and hear four or five every day; and also that he will keep the Fasts zealously, and Eat neither Flesh, nor Butter, nor Cheese, nor Egs, on them; and also that he will confess and receive the Sacrament once a month, or every six Weeks at furthest, and send his Family at least once a year in Lent time to do the same. And also that he will not forget, to the Honour and Encrease of the said Church, to remember her in his last Will; that he will protect and provide for the Widows and Fa∣therless; that he will maintain the Friers and Nuns, and their Monasteries; and if by the Seculars any thing should be taken away from them, that he will not con∣ceal it, but endeavour to the utmost of his power, as if it were his own, to recover it again. That he will assist those that would willingly turn Roman Catholicks, and endeavor to bring them over; but that he will keep none in his service, nor any ways assist them that do not firmly adhere unto it. Then there is also in∣serted, That he will say 49 Pater-Nosters, and as ma∣ny Ave-Maries, every day, and visit his Holiness the Pope once a Year, and come into the seven Church Pro∣cessions, and perform his Office; and also assist at the Sacraments, and other Ceremonies, with due Reve∣rence; and also Respect and Honour the Holy Water. At length to conclude, he is forbid to talk Idly, to be Drunk, to live Loosely, and to commit Sodomy, that he being Knighted, may not lead a disorderly Life, and give to others ill Example.

When then the Guardian hath read the Oaths that are written upon Parchment out of the Book, the Che∣vallier kneeleth down again, and when he bendeth his

face down, and leaneth with both his Arms on the Book, which lieth on the Altar-Stone of the Sepulchre, the Guardian bids the Friers, or Monks, again to Pray; then he draweth out the Sword, and maketh with the flat side of it three Crosses upon his Head and Shoul∣ders, saying, At the Command of God, and the See of Rome, and for the Encrease of the Church of Rome, I create you N.N. now a Member of the Roman Church, a Knight, in the Name of the Father, Son, and holy Ghost. And further he adds, That in the room of his Holiness the Pope of Rome, he doth Ab∣solve him of all his Sins: And that he doth also give him leave, and command him, by the Oath he hath ta∣ken to his Holiness the Pope, to wear the usual red Cross (as a Sign whereby he may be known) publickly in his Coat of Arms, and on his Clothes. Also, if he please, to put him in mind, as often as he shall look upon it, what he hath Sworn, and to keep it the firm∣er. When all this is over, and they have Prayed again, the Guardian wisheth him Joy of his Knight∣hood, and rejoyceth with the whole Convent that he is come to this acknowledgment, and is become a true Member of the Roman Catholick Church; that he and all his Brethren will always pray for his long Life, and that God may keep him in health, to the comfort of the See of Rome. Immediately approach to him all the Monks (while he is still standing in his Ornaments) and call him Brother; and when they have also wished him Joy one after the other, the Guardian beginneth the Te Deum, &c. and then he taketh all the Orna∣ments away again from him. Afterwards he leadeth him about with the Vicar in Procession to the Holy Places, to Invest him also in every one of them; when that is done they go to Dinner.

Although in former years every body was not pre∣sently admitted (as you may see by what hath been here before said) except he were a Nobleman for seve∣ral Generations; yet in our time it is come to that pass, that they admit every body to it without any strict Examination, that can pay the Money (which cometh to eleven or twelve Ducats). Nay, every Pil∣grim

that doth intend to take upon him that Knight∣hood, doth pray and perswade his Companions by the way that they would do the same, that he may have company, which the Pope doth allow of (because very few Noblemen come there now a-days) that he may in case of Necessity still have some friends to assist him, for his Holiness wants Champions, because he taketh up∣on him the Civil Government as well as the Ecclesiastick, that when they can defend and prove their Religion no longer by Scripture, they may defend and uphold it by Power and Strength of Arms. Now as the Guar∣dian, according to Ancient Custom, gives Attestates to every Pilgrim concerning their Pilgrimage, under his great Seal, that they may have it to shew, so he giveth also one to the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, and bids them to carry the Letter them∣selves in Person to Rome, to shew it to the Pope. This is sufficient of the Temple of Mount Calvaria, and its Holy Places, and the Christians that are dwelling there of their Chapels, and of their Errors.

CHAP. XXI.

A short Description of some Places, Hills, Valleys, &c. that lye near and about Je∣rusalem. Of the Mount of Olives, and its Holy Places.

I Having hitherto briefly described the situation of Jerusalem, and also related what Buildings and Holy Places are still in being, and to be seen there, after it hath sustained so many Wars, Assaults, and Desolations, I cannot but speak of some adjacent places before I conclude. And so I begin with the Mount of Olives, which lyeth towards the East before the Temple-hill, over against the Sheeps-gate, on the other side of the

Brook of Cedron, as the Holy Prophet Zachariah, testi∣fieth in his 14th Chapter and 4th Verse, when he saith, And his feet shall stand in that day upon the Mount of Olives, which is before Jerusalem on the East. This Mount is about a quarter of a League, on as St. Luke saith, A Sabbath-days Journey distant from Jerusalem, pretty high, rough and stony, full of pleasant Olive-Trees, (from whence it hath its Name) and also others; as Fig-Trees, Lemon and Orange, and Citron, and Siliqua-Trees, by the Inhabitants called Charnubi, Turpentine-Trees, and Palm-Trees; the like I have seen but few, &c, There is also some good Herbs, viz. A strange Origanum, Tragoriganum, Roman Mother of Time, Spica∣nardi, and a peculiar sort of Coniza, &c.

At the foot of the Mount they shew us first a great Church, between the Rivolet Cedron and the Valley of Josaphat, which was so covered with Earth, that you could see nothing of it but the Entry, and before it without, a large place three steps deep. This Church was built by Helena Mother of Constantine the Empe∣ror, and called the Sepulchre of our Lady the Mother of God; to go into it, you must go down 44 steps: With∣in it toward the right, there is a small Chapel, where they say our Lady was Buried; and therefore, by the Benevolence of the Pope, there is distributed and gi∣ven to the Pilgrims, full forgiveness of all Transgressi∣ons and Punishments for ever. Some are of Opinion, That this Church did formerly stand even with the Ground, and that after the Devastation of Jerusalem, when part of the Valley of Josaphat was filled up, it was covered thus over. This Church stands (as Nicephorus saith in his 8th Book and the 30th Chapter) on that place where the Village Gethsemane stood, whereby the Garden was whither our dear Lord Christ did, just before his Passion, go with his Eleven Disci∣ples, after he had Eaten the Paschal Lamb with them, and given Thanks, according to his usual Custom, over the Rivolet of Cedron, to regain us that which was formerly lost by our Ancestors in the Garden. There he left his Eight Disciples, while he went to Pray, as the Scripture telleth us; when he took with him Peter,

James and John, the two Sons of Zebedeus, and began to mourn, to quake, and to tremble, and said to them, My soul is sorrowful unto death, stay here, watch with me, and pray that you enter not into temptation; and he withdrew from them about a Stones cast (where he kneeled down, fell three times on his face, and prayed to his Heavenly Father, where he wrestled with Death, and Sweat a bloody Sweat, so that an Angel must come down from Heaven at last to Com∣fort him). This place is underneath a great Rock that hangeth over a great Cave, just at the Entry of the Valley of Josaphat.

This Valley is still where it cometh down from the Mount of Olives, pretty deep, and is called by the holy Prophet Joel the Valley of Judgment, as you may read in his 3d Chapter, 14 Verse; which words of Joel give us to understand, that the Lord, as he was (when he came first upon Earth) in this Valley taken Prisoner, Bound, and carried away to the place of his bitter Suf∣fering, Crucifixion and Dying, so he shall in his second and glorious coming, appear in this Valley of Judg∣ment again to Judge all people of the whole Earth, &c. that then the Impious shall see whom they have pierced. Zacharias speaks also of it in the above-mentioned place.

As you go from thence to the Mount of Olives, you see below towards your left hand, near unto the Bridge of the River Cedron, an old square Building like unto a Steeple. This, altho it is believed to this day not only by Christians, but also by the Turks and Moors, to be the Grave of Absalom, as you shall see them fling Stones into it as they go by, to revenge his Undutifulness shewn to his Father King David, yet notwithstanding he was not Buried there, as we read in the 2d Book of Samuel, the 18th Chapter, Vers. 17. And they took Absalom and cast him into a great pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones upon him. Yet for all this, when Absalom was alive (as you may farther read in the before-mention'd Chapter) he erected a Column in the Kings Dale, for he said, I have no Son, therefore this shall be for a

remembrance of my Name, and called this Pillar after his Name; and it is still called to this day Absaloms Place. Of this Pillar writes also Josephus in the 7th Book of his Antiquities and the 10th Chapter, saying, And Absalom did erect a Kingly Column of Marble in the Valley (Genes. chap. 14. it is called the Kings Val∣ley) that is two Furlongs from Jerusalem. Just by this Pillar beginneth a very steep Foot-Path, which parts a little above it into two, one whereof goeth Southward, at the bottom of the Mount of Olives towards Bethania and Jericho, &c. down through the Valley that is made by this and the other part of the Hill (called Ma∣shit in the 4th of the Kings, Chap. 23.) but the other goeth over the height of the Mount of Olives out by Bethania to the House of Mary and Martha. A little higher on this Hill did our Saviour sit, over against the Temple, when he foretold his Disciples that shewed him the glorious Buildings thereof, That not one Stone should remain upon another that should not be thrown down. And did also tell them at length, the terrible and prodi∣gious Signs that should come to pass before the Deso∣lation of Jerusalem, and the end of the World. To this day we still see into the Turkish Mosque, with its large Paved Court-yard, over the Walls thereof, so perfectly, that you may distinguish almost the Persons that walk there. From thence, when you go up to the Hill, which is very steep and rough, there is a large Plain, from whence our dear Lord Jesus Christ was ta∣ken up, and ascended into Heaven, as you may see by the words of the Holy Evangelist St. Luke, in his first Chapter of the Acts, Verse 9. where he saith, And he was taken up, and a cloud received him out of their sight. And Verse 12. Then returned they unto Jerusalem from the Mount called Olivet, which is from Jerusalem a Sabbath-days journey. On this place (as Nicephorus mentioneth) did Queen Helena also afterward Build a stately Church, which now is so decayed, that there is no more to be seen of it but a New built Chapel in a large Yard surrounded with a Wall. Just by it on a Hill of the Mount towards the North and Galilea, there is an old decayed Building, which was formerly

(as my Guide informed me) an Inn for the Galileans, where commonly did take up those that went to Jeru∣salem from Galilea. Wherefore they are of opinion, that some of them were there in the time of Christ, that also were Spectators of his Glorious Ascension, as it doth appear by the Words of the two Angels, that spoke to them, and said, You men of Galilea, why stand you here gazing up into Heaven, &c. But if you duly consider these words, you will find, as you read it in the Second Chapter of the Acts, Verse 7. that the Apostles themselves were these Galileans, where it is written: Behold, are not all those which speak Galileans? and how hear we every man in our own tongue, &c. So did also the holy Angels speak to the Apostles after the same manner, and called them Galileans, rather to bring them, as Elders of the Christian Church, off their worldly thoughts, which they had conceived in their Hearts, of the restoring of the worldly Regiment or Kingdom again (which they should have left, and in∣stead thereof looked upon the Heavenly Kingdom, whereinto Christ was ascended, unto the Kingdom of God, whereinto they were received as Members, which is a more spiritual Kingdom, that doth not consist in outward things, Eating and Drinking, &c. but in a clean and faithful heart. After this they ought to strive, and to make it their only business, that it may be noti∣fied to all men, and be spread abroad all the World over.

From the top of the Mountain, you have a prospect over all the holy Land, towards the North over the Valley Josaphat, (which is just at the bottom of the Hill) into the Country of Galilea: towards the East, over some naked Mountains, down into a large Field which extends it self to the Dead Sea, that is, as Josephus mentioneth, Twenty nine Leagues long, and Fifteen broad, whereof the Scripture maketh often mention, chiefly in the Books of Macchabees, and in the Second of Samuel, Chap, 15. where it is written, That when King David did flie from his Son Absolon, he tarried in the Plain Fields until he had intelligence of him. In these is still remaining the Pillar of Salt that Lot's Wife was turn'd

into, when she against the Command of God, turned to look back to the City. The famous Historiogra∣pher Flavius Josephus did in his time see it in his own person: and the Pilgrims visit it to this day, and beat off of it some small pieces, as they do every where, chiefly in holy places, and yet it is found still whole, and without any defect; which did put some Pilgrims, that once went towards the Dead Sea, into great admi∣ration. Now, that they might be certain and assured of the Truth of the common Assertion, That whatso∣ever was broken off of this Pillar, was always found whole again; they did, chiefly one of them, (as I was informed by one that had had been there before) knock a whole Hand off, and took it away with them. Now after they had been at the end of their Journey, and came back again, and went to look for it on pur∣pose, they found it whole again, and exactly like unto the old one as it had been before. Further beyond the Plain Fields, at the other side of Jordan that runs through it, there appear the Arabian Mountains, that were inhabited by Ruben, Gad, and half the Tribe of Manasse, they are very high, and afford very good Pastures for the Cattle: some among them were much noted and famous of old, as the Mountain of Seir be∣yond the Dead Sea, Mount Garizim and Ebal, whereof is made mention in the Twenty seventh Chapter of Deuterenomy; and also in the Thirty second Chapter, of Mount Abarim, Nebo, and the point of Pisgah, situated in the Land of the Moabites, overgainst Jericho, which together with all the adjacent places are very well seen; as well as towards the West the Rivulet Cedron, and the situation and largeness of the City of Jerusalem. After we had looked about sufficiently, we went down to the place of the Village Bethphage, which is at the other side on the Ascent of Mount Olivet, and belongeth to the Priests of Jerusalem: this is so ruined, that now adays there is nothing left of it save only a few Foundation-Walls. Into this did Christ send his Disciples, to loosen the She-ass and the Colt which was tied to the Door in the Road) and to bring them to him, whereon our Lord Christ also did ride to

Jerusalem Five days before he suffered, being the true Saviour.

Before it the Mount is pretty plain, and is very rough and rocky, wherein Bethania lieth on the Right Hand upon one ascent, of the other part of Mount Olivet, as is before said, But the Village of Mary and Martha (whereof you read in the Gospel of St. John, Chapter XI,) is further out by the beginning of the Road towards Jericho, which is still very dangerous, because of the Arabian Vagabonds. In these Habita∣tions did our dear Saviour oftentimes take up his Lodg∣ings with them; and in the same did Mary the Sister of Lazarus, and Martha anoint the Feet of our Lord Christ with a precious Ointment of Nard, and dry them again with her hair: in our days they are quite deso∣lated, and nothing left thereof but Ruins. Near it as you come back again to Bethania, in the Plain lieth a large Stone, where also you may see the above-mentioned places very plain: where they say that Mar∣tha did meet the Lord, when he came up the Steps, and rested on the Mount, and talked with him of the Resur∣rection of her Brother, before her Sister Mary did know any thing of the arrival of the Lord. Wherefore she went back again into their Village, to call her Sister Mary secretly, who, when she heard that our Lord Christ was near, at hand, did hasten and went to him, for he was not yet come into the Village, and fell down at his Feet, and said weeping, Lord, if thou hadst been here my brother had not died: then he groaned in his spi∣rit, and enquired presently after the place where Laza∣rus, his dear Friend was laid, and went with them to it to Bethania that Village, distant a League, (about an hours going) or as the Scripture saith, about fifteen fur∣longs from Jerusalem on an ascent: wherein was a small Chapel, and underneath it a deep covered Cave, where∣in Lazarus had lain Four Days, as you may also see in the before quoted Chapter, where it is in the Thirty eighth Verse said: It was a cave, and a stone lay upon it. When the Franciscan Friars would go to the Grave of Lazarus, they were forced to go through this Village, and a great concourse of the poor Inhabitants used to

flock about them, and did surround them, and detained them till they gave them something to be distributed amongst them; that they might evade this Trouble, and not be necessitated to go through his Village, when they go to the Grave, they have made behind at the other side on the heighth, another Avenue, but they do not escape the Mobile for all that, for they meet them notwithstanding, chiefly, if they know or have intel∣ligence, that any Pilgrims came along with them to see the Grave. So we did find it, for they came and kept us locked up in it so long, till we had given them so much as did satisfie them. As you come out again from Bethania towards Jerusalem, the Friars shew an old Building, where Simon the Leper did dwell, in which when Christ was at the Table, Mary the Sister of Lazarus did come, and did break again, yet seve∣ral days after, a Glass of pretious Unguent of Nard over his Head, which filled the whole House with a fragrant Scent; which pleased Christ so well, that he took her part against his Disciples, and commended her proceedings so highly, that it is recorded to her per∣petual memory. From thence if you come nearer into the Valley between the Mounts of Olives, there is still to be seen several Fig-trees whereabouts Christ did curse one of that kind, because he found no Fruit thereon when he was hungry. Just at the coming out of the Valley near unto the Steps of Mount Olivet, you see the City again, but chiefly the Mount of the Temple and Gate where you go up, walled up in the new Wall. From this Valley, when our Lord Christ came in sight, and came down the Mount Olivet, the People, as he came riding long, cried, saying, Hosanna, to the Son of David, &c. And a little after when he came nearer un∣to it, he lamented with tears also their future misery, and the terrible destruction of the Town, and went in from thence toward the Golden Gate into the Temple, and drove out the Buyers and Sellers.

CHAP. XXII.

Of Bethlehem, the Mountains of Judea, and their famous Places. Where also is made mention of my returning back from Jerusa∣lem to Tripoli.

BEthlehem formerly called Ephrata, is situated to∣wards the South Twenty Furlongs or a German Mile distant from Jerusalem. The nearest way to it you go through the Gate of Hebron, and come to the Right by the upper Mote, and the bloudy Field, up the steps over mount Gihon, where just before you see a Cistern with good fresh Water near the Path, made of white Stones, and well prepared: near which the Star did appear again unto the three wise Men of the Eastern Countries, and led them into Bethlehem. Near it there groweth a Turpentine Tree larger and higher than any that ever I saw elsewhere in my life. Fur∣ther, about half way, you pass over a Hill, at the top whereof you may see both Towns, Jerusalem and Bethlehem. Before you is a large Valley, which altho it be rocky, yet is it fruitful both of Corn and Wine. In it towards the Right Hand near the Road is an Acre called the Cicer-Field, which had its Name (as I was in∣formed) from the following Transaction. It is said, that when Christ went by at a certain time, and saw a Man that was a sowing Cicers, he did speak to him kindly, and asked him what he was a sowing there, the man answered scornfully, and said, He sowed small stones. Then let it be, said our Lord, that thou reap the same seed thou sowest. So they say, that at Harvest-time he found instead of the Cicer-pease, nothing but small Pebles in shape, and colour and bigness, like unto them exactly. Now whether there be any thing of truth in it or no I cannot affirm, but this I must say, that there are to this day such stones found in this Field. For as we went by, some of us went

into it, and did gather a great many of them, that were in bigness, shape and colour, so like unto these Cicers (by the Arabians called Ommos, and in Latin Cicer arietinum) that we could hardly distinguish them from natural ones.

Hard by it you see still some old Ruins of old Stones, where first Abraham the Patriarch did build a Tent as you read Genesis 12.8. And he re∣moved from thence unto a Mountain on the East of Be∣thel, and pitched his Tent, having Bethel on the West, and Hai on the East. Senacherib, the King of Assyria, when he went before Jerusalem, did come into this Valley with all his might and power: and had by the Angel of the Lord in one nights time, One hundred and eighty five thousand Men slain: and still to this day there are two great holes to be seen, wherein they flung the dead Bodies: one whereof is hard by the Road to∣wards Betlehem, the other towards the Right Hand over gainst old Bethel: which Town fell to the Chil∣dren of Benjamin, and is called still to this day Bethi∣sella, and is situated half a League farther towards the West at the Foot of the Hill, in a very fruitful Coun∣try. There did Jacob the Patriarch when he fled from his Brother Esau, see in his sleep the Ladder which reached up into Heaven, whereon the holy Angels a∣scended and descended, wherefore he erected there a stone for a mark, and called the place Bethel, which was called Luz before, as you may read in the Twenty eighth Chapter of Genesis. As you come nearer to Bethlehem, you see the Grave of Rachel at your Right Hand near the Road, which Jacob did erect there, when his Wife died in labour with Benjamin, as you read in Genesis xxxv. 16. And they journeyed from Be∣thel and there was but a little way to come to Ephrath: and Verse 18. And it came to pass as her soul was in de∣parting (for she died) that she called his name Benoni: but his father called him Benjamin: and Rachel died, and was buried in the way Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a pillar upon her grave: that is the pillar of Rachel's Grave unto this day. Before you come quite thither there is just by without it on the Left a good

rich Cistern, which is deep and wide. Wherefore the People that go to dip water, are provided with small Leathern Buckets and a Line, as is usual in these Coun∣tries; and so the Merchants that go in Carrvans through great Desarts into far Countries, provide themselves also with these, because in these Countries you find more Cisterns or Wells than Springs that lie high. This was formerly under the Gates of Bethlehem, whereof King David longed to drink: wherefore his three Champions did break into the Camp of the Phi∣listins, and did dip some Water out of the Well, and brought it to the King: but the King would not drink of it for certain Reasons, as you may read in the Twenty third Chapter of Samuel, and in the Twelfth Chapter of the First of Chronicles. From thence we went by the Path of the Mount into Bethlehem the Town of David, where he was born, and anointed King by the Prophet Samuel; it lieth upon an Ascent, its Buildings, Town-Walls and Towers are so decayed, that now it is quite open, and nothing at all to be seen, except the Well and Monastery, but ruined Cot∣tages.

Just without Bethlehem at the the other side of the Path, towards the East (for formerly the Town reached fo far) they shew still the Stable, under a large Rock, wherein Jesus Christ the promised Messias, God and Man was born of the immaculate Virgin Mary, and laid in a Manger. Of his coming, and the place where he should be born, the holy Prophet Mi∣cah long before prophesied in his Fifth Chapter, and Second Verse, saying: But thou Bethlehem Ephrata, though thou be little among the thousands of Juda, yet out of thee shall he come forth unto me, that is to be ruler in Israel: whose goings forth have been from of old, from everlasting. On that place hath Helena, Mother of Constantine the Great, also built a stately Church; but since it is so ruined and demolished, that hardly half of it is left, as one may see by the old Walls of the Foun-Foundation, and other Places and Arches that are still left without; yet that part that still remaineth stand∣ing, is very large, covered with Lead at top, and is so

glorious a Building, that one shall hardly find a better any where. For within it is paved with white Marble all over, and upheld with a great many large and high Marble Pillars, each whereof is about Nine Spans in Diameter; I told about Fifty of them, they stand without before the Chancel (and underneath them is the place of the holy and joyful Birth of our Lord Jesus Christ) in four Rows one behind the other, and so give a glorious Ornament to the whole Church. There are also to be seen on the Arches and the Walls about, some fine Histories, taken out of the Old Testa∣ment, made in Mosaick Work, laid in with Colours very artificially: and are still so plain to be seen and and discerned, as if they were made but the other day. The Cave wherein Christ was born, hath without on each side of the Chancel, underneath which it is a pe∣culiar way into it, one against the other, the Doors thereof are commonly locked up, because behind the Church there is still another, through which they ge∣nerally go down into it; therein is below at the Right Hand still another less one, going down two steps more, which is the true Stable, wherein our Sa∣viour Jesus Christ did lie in the Manger between the Ox and Ass: so there is still in the same place made a marble one very well wrought. Without before it we put off our Shoes, and went in with the Father Guar∣dian into the holy place. Where when I considered, the joyful Birth of our Lord Jesus Christ: where he, as the true long before promised Messias and Saviour was born, I was affected as if I saw the Child wrapt up in Swadling Cloaths, and lying in the Manger, disguised in our mortal Flesh and Blood, yet without sin, that we as Children of Wrath and eternal Damnation, might be received again by God his Heavenly Father, as his Children, unto everlasting Salvation: that did humble himself so low, as to be born in a dark Stable in the miserablest Poverty, that he might bring us out from the Filth and Mire of Sin wherein we lay, into the Parlour of his Heavenly Father. Seeing then, my dear Lord Jesus Christ, that thou art come to us into the World, as the true Light, to make of us, that were Children of

Darkness and eternal Damnation, Children of Light and eternal Salvation and Felicity; I return unto thee, O Lord, for these thy unspeakable Benefits, eternal Praises, and see∣ing that thou hast assumed our Flesh and Blood, and hast also caused these thy Merits and Benefits to be by thy holy Angels profered to me; theresore I pray thee let me come to thee with the poor Shepherds, and see thy saving Incar∣nation, give me and us all thy Grace and Holy Spirit, that we may comfort our selves with this thy blessed Birth, against our sinful and impure one, constantly and without cessation, that we may rejoice in it, in good and bad Times, in Tri∣bulations and Adversities, in prosperous Success and ill For∣tune, in the time of this temporal Life, heartily, until at length we shall, in the life to come, see thee with all the elected ones, face to face, to all Eternity. Amen.

This Cave is underneath about the Walls lined, with long Tables of Grey Marble, adorned with Blue, artificially laid in: the Rock that cometh out over the Stable only excepted. Just by the furthermost Entry of the fine Chapel there are others, in one whereof St. Jerom did live, and did Translate the Bible out of the Hebrew and Chaldean Languages into the Latin. In another near it lieth buried, the Noble Pious Roman Lady Paula, with her Daughter Eustachia. Who after the Decease of her Husband, went thither to St. Je∣rom, where she led all the rest of her Days in Christian Piety, until at length she died in the Lord. From thence we came up again into the Church, wherein without close to the Chancel on each side were to be seen two Altars, covered with good large Marble; on one thereof on the Left the Father Guardian did shew me the Effigies of the old Simeon, holding the Child Jesus in his Arms, and in the Manger still another, with this Admonition, That from hence we may see, con∣clude and learn, that it is not culpable at all to have Images, seeing that Nature it self alloweth so much unto Stones that Images may grow in them. Wherefore they are not only not to be forbidden, but rather to be honoured. But what every Christian ought to think of this, being quite contrary to the Holy Scripture, every Child that hath but begun to learn the Catechism, can easily and

sufficienlty decide. The Franciscan Monks have near the Church a large and pleasant Habitation, and also by it great Gardens, (rich of fine Plants and good Fruits) defended round about with high Walls, against the Incursions of the Arabians, which they make daily. Bethlehem lieth high, surrounded by the Hills of Ju∣daea, as you may see by the Words of Jeremiah in the Thirty first Chapter, Verse 15. where he doth pro∣phesie the Murthering of the Children, which cruel Tyranny Herod Ascalonit did a great while after in Christ's time execute, the words are these: Thus saith the Lord, a voice was heard in Ramah, lamentation and bitter weeping: Rachel weeping for her Children, refused to be comforted for her children because they were not. In this Monastery, because it lieth at the top of the path, you see with pleasure, as well as on Mount Olivet, the Confines of Hiericho, and the Dead Sea, and the Moun∣tains of Arabia, but chiefly within the space of a League and half towards the South, a great and high Hill, which extends it self much further than the rest, whereupon in former years the strong and mighty Ca∣stle of Thecköa was built, whereof the holy Prophet Jeremias maketh mention in his Sixth Chapter, and also Amos (who did prophesie there) in his First Chapter. The Christians had this in possession a great while, and did keep it against the Infidels and Heathens for above Thirty years after Jerusalem and the Holy Land were taken; for they had Corn and Wine, and Water, and other Necessaries abundantly of their own growing, so that they might have kept it longer, if a great con∣tagious Distemper had not got among them, which did encrease to that degree, that they were forced to leave it, and to retire to more healthy places. When the Heathens did understand that the Christians were marched off, they fell into the Castle with a great multitude, tore it all to pieces, and did demolish it to the very Ground, so that now one cannot discern that such a one did stand there before. But this lost Troop of the Christians did at length settle themselves on Mount Libanus, and began to inhabit it, where they are still remaining in our times, and call themselves (as I

have told you before) Trusci. About Bethlehem there are some Valleys very well tilled with Corn and Wine, and among the rest a very pleasant and fruitful one, that beginneth immediately by the Church and Foun∣tain, and runs down towards Jericho and Jordan. This is below pretty wide, full of Olive and Fig-trees, it also bringeth forth some comfortable Herbs, viz. some strange Origanums, Tragoriganum, Roman Serpillum, which the Arabians call Sathar, Absintium Santonicum, which groweth every where in the holy Land, this hath small ash-coloured Leaves, very like unto them of ours, and many small Stalks, full of small yellowish Seeds, it is of an unpleasant Smell, very bitter, with a saltish sharpness, wherefore it is reputed to be the Scheha of the Arabians: from whence our Worm-seed cometh.

In this Valley were the Shepherds, to whom the Angels of the Lord did appear, and declared to them the saving Birth of our Lord Jesus Christ, saying, Be∣hold I bring you good tidings of great joy, which shall be to all people; for unto you is born this day, in the city of David a Saviour, which is Christ the Lord, &c. and suddenly there was with the angel a multitude of the heavenly host, prai∣sing God, and saying: Glory to God in the highest, and on earth peace, good will towards men. In that place, which is about half a League below Bethlehem, is still a Church, which also Queen Helena did build, as Nice∣phorus testifieth in the Thirtieth Chapter of his Eighth Book, this is for the greatest part fallen in, so that no∣thing more but a small Arch is to be seen of it. Hard by it did stand the Tower Ader, as St. Jerom writes, whereby Israel did erect a Tent, (as you may read in Genesis:) and looked after the Sheep with his Twelve Sons. This is in our time so demolished, that it lieth quite in Ruins. Beyond it in another Valley not far from Bethlehem, they shew still to this day a large Orchard, full of Citron, Lemon, Orange, Pome∣granate, and Fig-trees, and many others: which King Solomon did plant in his Days, with Ponds, Canals, and other Water-Works very pleasantly prepared: as he saith himself in the Second Chapter of Ecclesiastes, Verse 5. I made me gardens and orchards, and I planted

trees in them of all kind of fruits: I made me pools of water, to water therewith the wood that bringeth forth trees. This is still in our time full of good and fruit∣ful Trees, wherefore it is worthy to be seen for their sakes, and also for the Ditches sake that are still there. Wherefore I really believe it to be that same whereof Josephus maketh mention in his Eighth Book of the Jewish Antiquities, and the Seventh Chapter. saying: And the King rode in a Chariot, cloathed in white, and it was his Custom to ride early in the morning to a place called Hetten, a hundred Furlongs from Jerusalem, where he had a Garden with Water-pools and Works very pleasant and rich. Thither went the King for his pleasure; and did always use great diligence and consideration in all things, and took delight to see every thing neat and handsom, &c. After we had seen the chiefest places within and without, near and a far off of Bethlehem, we returned to Jeru∣salem again by another way that was near as far again about, and went over the Mountains of Judea, which have first as you come from thence very good and fruit∣ful Valleys, full of Vines and Corn, but the nearer you come to Jerusalem, the higher and rougher are the Mountains. In this way half a League from Nebeleschol, the Friars shewed us a Well very rich of Water, just by the Road that goeth down to Gaza, this runneth into a small Rivulet, wherein the holy Apostle Phi∣lip did baptize Candaces Chamberlain to the Queen of Aethiopia, by it is nothing else to be seen but a small Church, and a Fish-pond. From thence we came over high, rough and steep Hills into the Deserts, where St, John the Baptist did lead his life in his young Age, there is nothing to be seen but a very ancient Chapel, and hard by it a delicate Spring on the top of the Hill, where we went up to refresh our selves a little, with eating and drinking of what we had taken along with us. About the Roads grow many Trees, by the Inhabitants called Charnubi, the Fruit whereof is called St. John's Bread in our Country, and is brought to us in great plenty. From thence we had still a very rough and hilly way to the Church and Habitation of Zachary, whither the Virgin Mary did come (climbing over the

Hills) to give Elizabeth a Visit, &c. before it a League distance nearer to the Town, at the end of the Valley Raphaim (whereof the holy Scripture maketh often mention, viz. in the Fifteenth and Eighteenth Chapters of Joshua; and in the First of the Chronicles, and the 12th. Chapter) stands in a very pleasant and fruitful place, the Church of St. John the Baptist: and by it, before you come quite to it, falleth down the Spring of Nephthaah that is very rich of Water. This Church is very ancient, but yet pretty well built, and hath on the Left Hand as you go in, a deep and hidden Cave, wherein Elizabeth did hide her self with John her Child, that it might not be slain, with the Children of Beth∣lehem, by the Servants of Herod, whereof you may read more in the Proto-Evangelium of St. Jacob, where it is thus written:

When Elizabeth did hear that among the rest of the Innocents which Herod had command∣ed to be killed, her Son John was also searched for, she did climb up the Hills, and looked about her where she might hide him; but when she saw no place there where she could do him, she sighed, and cried out with a loud voice, saying: O ye hills of Gad, take both the Mother and the Child: for she could not ascend them: the Hill did open it self instantly, and took them into it, &c.

But how afterwards Herod did search for John, and how he did threaten and exhort his Father Zachary, to tell him where his Son was, and also how his Servants did kill Zachary, (not being satisfied with his Answer) for it in the Porch of the Temple, is at length related in the Books of the Martyrs of the Learned and Reverend Ludowich Rabus. As you come from the before-mentioned Church, nearer to the Town of Jerusalem, there is still seen a large Pillar, that is of great Antiquity, and lieth very high between the Mountains on a high Hill, five Furlongs off of Jerusalem, wherefore some take it to be Ruines of the Fortification of Betzura: but as far as one can understand by the Books of Maccabees, that is situated more towards the East behind Mount Olivet. Just before it within stands in the Valley (that is full of pleasant Olive Trees) a very old, yet well built

Church called the Holy Cross, whereof some Greek Friars are possessed: they pretend that in that place, the Tree did stand, that was made use of for the Cross of Christ: this we did soon leave, and went over a small height through the Gate of Hebron again into Je∣rusalem, and made our selves ready to return the next day again to Joppe towards our Ship. And so we re∣warded the Father Guardian, their Interpreter and o∣thers that had conducted us, for their Faithfulness and Services done us according to our Ability, to their full content and satisfaction, wherefore the Father Guardian did freely give to each of us a Certificate under his usual Seal, that we had seen all the holy places, which were named in it. This done, we went away, and came the next day to Rama towards Joppe. By the way I found some Lentiscus's from whence the Mastich cometh, Arbutus, Ilex, and a strange sort of Willows, by the Inhabitants called Sassaf, but by Theophrastus Elaeagnus, some Olive-Trees, Palm-Trees, White Mulberry-Trees, Sumach-Trees and Styrax, from which cometh a fweet smelling Gum, called by the same Name, that is brought from thence into our Country; Spartium, Ly∣cium, which is a strange Shrub, and the Juice thereof retaineth the same Name, and is found sometimes in our Apothecaries Shops: the King and Prophet David maketh mention thereof, under the Hebrew Name Hadhadd, by which also the Arabians call it, their Speech running much upon the Hebrew. Herea∣bout grow also very many Fruits (called Siliquae by the Latines, and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 and 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 by the Greeks, but by the Inhabitants Charnubi) whereof many are brought out to us, and are very well known by the Name of St. John's Bread. These are so common in these Countries, that they esteem them less than we do the worst Fruit we have, wherefore they give them to the Cattle to eat. Wherefore it is probable, that the prodigal Son desired to fill his Belly with these Fruits, which, as it appeareth by the Greek Text, the Hogs did eat, and yet could not have enough of them to sa∣tisfie his Hunger. Besides these I found also by the way many Turpentine-Trees, by the Inhabitants called

Botin and Albotin, which are very common in France, chiefly about Montpelier, they have small green Ker∣nels; that are of a reddish Colour, and hollow within, and are oftentimes basely sold and used by the Apo∣thecaries for the true Carpabalsamum: for these and o∣thers above-mentioned, as we read in the Eighth Chap∣ter of Nehem. the Israelites did take Bows, and made themselves Tents of them to live in, during their great Feast of Tabernacles. I saw also chiefly between Ra∣ma and Joppa some white Barbery Trees, which I took first for Paliurus the third kind of Rhamnus, unto which they are very like, except the Fruits whereby I did discern them first, and besides they are much high∣er, and their Branches covered with a white Bark. Now although they are not to be taken for the same, yet they are very like unto the second Paliurus where∣of Theoprastus maketh mention in the Fourth Chapter, and the Fourth Verse. Among the Corn I did find a strange Origanum, Serpillum: Smilax aspera, Triones of Theophrastus, whereof I have made mention above.

After we had made our selves quite ready to sail for Tripolis, whither we had about Forty German Miles, we went aboard the Ship, and set Sail with a fair Wind. But this did not last long, for as soon as we were out at Sea, there arose one that was so contrary to us, that we hardly reached the Confines of Tirus and Sidon the Fourth Day, where we arrived in our former Voyage at night, as I have said before, I saw nothing of any Buildings on the Shoar, but some small Houses in the place where formerly the Town Sarepta did stand, which (as you may read in the Fourth Chapter of St. Luke, and in the Third Book of Kings, Chap. 17.) was situated near unto Sidon, or as Josephus writes in his Eighth Book of the Jewish Antiquities, Chap. 13. between Tyrus and Sidon in the Country of Phaenicia, wherein the holy Prophet Elias, during the great scarci∣ty did live a great while with a Widow, and did restore her dead Son to life again.

Departing thence the night befel us before we gat over against Sidon, but we went so near the Town, that we could see the Houses, and some Rocks butting upon

them by Moon-light. From thence the nearer we came to Tripolis, the more the wind was for us, so that we arrived there on the First of October in the year 1575, in very good health and condition. Wherefore I give eternal Thanks, Glory, and Praise unto the Almighty God the Father, Son and Holy Ghost. Amen.

CHAP. XXIII.

How I took ship at Tripolis in Syria, and sail∣ed back from thence to Venice, and tra∣velled home again to my own Relations at Augspurg.

AT my Arrival at Tripolis, when I hoped that some∣thing might have been done for the Good of Hans Ʋlrich Krafft (whom I left in Prison behind, as is above-mentioned) towards his Deliverance: that we seeing we came out together might have remained to∣gether a while longer, and have ended our Journey to our content, I found there was not only nothing done to the purpose, but his Cause came to be worse and worse, so that it was even or odd whether I should not have been cast into Prison also, and beaten severely to boot. When thus he was detained in Prison, I received a Letter and Command, as well from his Adversary, as from my own Friends, desiring me to take the Cause in hand earnestly, to bring them both to an Ac∣commodation; and that if I would do so, I should do him greater service, than if I should stay a whole year longer at Tripoli, expecting his Deliverance. Now al∣though many means were used after my Departure, for his Liberty, yet they proved all fruitless, unsuccess∣ful and vain, so that he was forced to spend three in∣tire years miserably in this severe Turkish Imprison∣ment, untill at length he was miraculously delivered.

Wherefore I got every thing ready for my Departure, and went aboard the Ship called the St. Matthew, on the Day of St. Leonhard, being the Sixth Day of No∣vember in the year 75, (having first taken my leave of the above-mentioned my dear Friend Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, whom I loved as my own Brother) and the next day we put out, having a very good wind. So our Navigation proceeded in the beginning very suc∣cessfully, and we discovered on the Third Day early the great Island of Cyprus. But when we approached unto it, a Hurricane arose suddenly, and blew so fiercely upon us, that it wound our great Sail round about our main Mast, so that it was a wonder to me, that it did not bring it by the Board, or (as it would if the Seamen had not struck it down immediately) turn the Ship over, and sink her. These Winds arise from a Wind that is called by the Greeks, Typhon; and Pliny calleth it Vertex and Vortex: but as dangerous as they are, as they arise suddenly, so quickly they are laid again also. The Seamen pretend, that one shall sooner perceive them in the Ship below (because they come up from the depth of the Sea) than above Deck. After this had continued about a quarter of an hour it was quite over, so that it was perfectly calm, and the Sea very quiet. So our Seamen hoisted up their Sail again, and steered towards the Capo del Graeco, with an intention to run in still before Sun-set into the Harbour of the Metropolis called Famagusta: but be∣fore we were aware of it another Wind arose that did send us back again, so we stood out at Sea, and went on with it so well, that we passed the Island that is One hundred and sixty Italian Miles long. Not long after the Wind did change, and it came to be foul Weather, and so contrary to us, that we went on but very slowly, and we were forced to drive upon the Sea on∣ly for several Days, until at length we came before the Land of Pamphylia and Lycia (which came in sight now and then) nearer to the Island of Rhodes: then arose a Northerly Wind that helped us into our true Road again, and blew so fresh, that in a few hours we went by that mountainous Island Scarpanthus, and af∣terwards

by Solomons Point of the Isle of Candia out towards the South, which is Forty Leagues further: and we had been almost quite thrown over into Africa, if we had not sheltered our selves under the next Mountains, so we got clear of the Noise and Turbu∣lency of the Wind and Sea: but instead of that our Ship came so near unto the Shoar of Candia, that we feared every moment to have been shipwracked, which had certainly befaln us, if our Nacchier, (that manageth the Sails) with his Seamen, (who wrought very hard until they brought the Ship out at Sea again) had not had not for two days and nights done their utmost en∣deavour. When we kept thus out at Sea, foul Wea∣ther befel us again, and contrary and rough Winds blew afresh, so that it was very dangerous sailing; wherefore our Master as well as the Men thought it best to get into a Harbour: but finding that it was very dangerous to get in there, they went back again to the Island Calderon, which lieth not above a German Mile from Candia, to land there▪ and to stay for bet∣ter Weather. This Island is small, and so rough and sandy within, that it cannot be inhabited; but yet being full of Bushes, those of Candy, turn, chiefly in the Sum∣mer, their Cattel into it. Here I found a kind of Mandrake with blue Flowers in great quantity, and also very many Oxycedri like unto our Juniper Bushes, which, are almost as high as our Pine-trees. When we, during this hard Weather, were in this Island Calderon for shelter, we saw sometimes Clouds in the shape of a Pillar, that came down from the Skies to the next Mounta••n, and so extended themselves sloping down into the next Sea. Pliny makes mention also of them in his Forty ninth Chapter of the Second Book. When this did touch the Sea, it began to suck as it were through a Spout so fiercely, that the Water be∣gan to move in that place, as if it were in a storm, so that we could not only hear the Noise, but also see the great motion thereof. In the beginning it was pretty clear, but the longer it remained there, the darker it grew, until at length it arose up again and ascended into the Skies like unto a thick Cloud. Wherefore it

may very well be, that sometimes Worms, Frogs, Fun∣gusses, Snails, Muscles, &c. may fall down with the Rain, chiefly in those places that are near to the Sea: for I have my self seen it many times in my Travels between Bononia and Florence on the high Mountains, where I have found several of them. When the Wind blew fair for us again, and we had sufficiently provided our selves with Wood and fresh Water, we hoisted up our Sails again and came away; and at length (not without great labour and changing of the wind) we got out before the Island of Candy (which is about Two hundred and fifty Italian Leagues long) into the open Sea, with an intention to go strait away for Venice. In the mean time one of our Seamen did catch on a Hook, that he had baited with some meat, a large Fish, by the Latins called Lamia, but this Fish being of some hundered Weight in bulk, he brought him upon the hook by degrees to the Ship, then they fastened a Rope about his Gills, and so drew him up very safely. When they did cut it open to salt it, I found that its Bones were but very small, and not harder than a Cartilage. They gave us now and then some of it to eat, but it was so much salted, that we could not eat it, so that at last they were forced to leave it. Soon after one of the Pilgrims, that was a Priest at Lille in Flanders, got a Bloody Flux so violently, that he was in danger of his life, so I took care of him, and gave him what Physick I had by me in the Ship. When we came to the Island of Cerygo, (else called Cithera) belonging to the Venetians, lying near to the Morea (from whence Paris took away the Queen of King Menelaus, and carried her to Troy) upon a sud∣den a Hurricane arose towards Night with Blowing, Thundering and Lightening, so that we at several times did despair of our Lives. For when the Waves swell∣ed as big as large Rocks, and pressed very hard upon our Ship, so that they did fling it now on this, and then on the the other side again, with great violence; so that not only our Goods, Arms, Trunks and Boxes were tumbled up and down in the Ship, but that also we were forced to take great care of our selves during

this Tempest, that we might not tumble over board, we were in great danger. But how terribly soever this looked in the dark night, yet it still increased; for in a little-while after the place that held the Cannon Bul∣lets that were near unto the Steerage (where I had my Cabin) broke open, so that the Bullets ran up and down over all the Ship according as she rolled. Soon after the beating of the Waves knocked off the Gar∣land that was behind at the outside of the Ship, and left some Nails about a Finger thick, that held it in the Wood, with such a power, that one might hear it almost all over the Ship. After all this the great Sail was also torn off and fell down into the Sea, so that we thought no less than that we were all lost: for then the Ship was wholly left to the mercy of the roaring Waves, that flung her, and tossed her about like a Foot-ball, from place to place (which you may deduce from thence, that the Guardian that held himself fast to the Main Mast upon the Deck, was sometimei above a Mans depth under Water) so that every moment we expected to be overturned, and so drowned. Yet in all this Calamity, we did not give over all, but did what we could for our safety, seeing that we could not do what we would, we stood together and pulled the Sail out again, yet we did not all pull together, for it was so dark that we could not see one another, but when it lightened, and in the place of the torn one we put up another new one; for generally in such Ships they are provided with two Sails, and also with two Masts and Rudders. After the Seamen had put on the new Sail, not without great labour, difficulty and danger, they fell down upon their knees, and began to pray to their Intercessors and Patrons (which every one chuseth for himself) by their Names, some to Peter, other, to St. Paul, others to the holy Virgin Mary, but chiefly and before all the rest to St. Nicholas, who in the like imminent Dangers, Necessities and Calamities, hath oftenest before all the rest shewed himself by sun∣dry Tokens (according to their Opinion) ready to assist and to help, so that they might be sure of his help, and so comfort themselves with a certain Deliverance.

After they had said their Prayers, they let me under∣stand that they had seen three burning Candles on the top of the Main Mast, wherefore some of them for Joy vowed solemnly to go a Pilgrimage to certain Holy Pla∣ces, or else to give a certain Sum to one of their Church∣es. This Tempestuous weather held on all the Night long, and also for a great part of the next Day, so that the Seamen Prayed three several times; I cannot justly tell whether I was more astonished at their Pray∣ers or at the Tempestuousness of the Sea, but chiefly when I understood, that they sought, without Christ our true Saviour and Helper, in this great danger to others, and such that did not only know nothing of us, as we may see by the words of Esai, when he saith, Abraham knoweth nothing of us, and Israel doth not know us; but that also (if they had been still alive) would have directed us themselves to the true and only Me∣diator Jesus Christ. And so we read, That the Virgin Mary her self did not know what was become of her Son, until she found him sitting amongst the Teachers in the Temple of Jerusalem; and also at the Wedding of Cana in Galilea, she did direct the Servants (that told her that they wanted Wine) her self to her Son our Lord Christ, that they might not look upon her any more) when she saith to them, What he bid•• you so do. Seeing then that the Saints will not receive such Honour that only belongs unto the Lord; and on the contrary, The Lord bids us come to him, I turned from them all to Christ (when our Ship was almost quite covered over with the Waves) to awake the Lord as his Disciples did when he was asleep, saying, Lord help us or else we perish; and with the Apostle St. Peter, O Lord save and deliver us, let us not sink down quite, but draw us out from the depth of the Sea, and preserve us graciously in this great danger. This Tempest made our Seamen so distracted, that they did hardly know whether, and how far the Wea∣ther had drove us out of our way, until we came quite about the Morea, and saw the Island Zant (formerly called Zacynthus). This we left on our right, and did go straight forwards to the next Island of C••phalonia. This is about 250 Leagues distant from Candy, and doth

belong, as well as Zant, to the Venetians, and had over against us a fine large and strong Port called Argostala, before which it was 14 days before we arrived; to∣wards the left, a Ship (being under full Sail before a strong Wind and missing the Entry) was Staved all in pieces. Into this we got (the Lord be thanked) safe, and remained there for some days to refresh our selves. Just behind this Island is the Channel Viscardo, wherein the Great Armada of the Christians did ride against the Turkish ones, until at length it came to a Fight before it, where the Christians obtained a Glorious Victory. After we found our selves in a safer and quieter place than we were before, and did hope quickly to get good Bread also, instead of our old black and Worm-eaten Biskets (which had been Loaden in Spain a great while agon, wherewith we had made shift a good while) some of us went the next morning into the next Village (which was pretty large) to buy some. But we did miss of our aim very much; for being that the Inhabi∣tants continually and hourly feared that the Turks, whose Armada was not far off, would make a descent upon them therefore they conveyed all the Goods they had into the Castle, that we could see lye very high beyond the great Harbour, and had kept no more but what was necessary for their daily use; so that no Provision at all was to be had or found: And they had so little of Bread, that we went about in the Village from House to House, and could hardly get for Mo∣ney as much Bread as would serve us for our Dinner. But as for Wine they let us have what we would, which was Red, and very good, which the Merchants knew very well; wherefore they bought a considera∣ble quantity thereof, to carry to Venice, and so did our Ships Master also. We also found many small Grapes growing there, on the Vines, which (as many as I saw of them) are rather less and lower than ours in our Vineyards. During this our tarrying, our Pilot being Sick, so that he was not able to direct the Ship any fur∣ther according to the Compass, our Master strove to get another, and that the rather, because the Adriatick Sea whereinto we expected to come daily) is very

dangerous, because of its narrowness, plenty of Islands, and hidden Rocks, to Navigate. So we got a Greek, and after the Weather began to be fairer, we put out to Sea again. But this did not continue long, for when we came out a little out of the Harbor, we had other Winds upon the Sea, that were rather contrary to us, and hindered us so very much in our Navigation, that after many days we arrived only before the Fort of Corfu, otherways called Corcyca (which we could hardly see in that Misty and Foggy Weather) not without great pains and labour. This ill Weather, with the contrary Winds, lasted very long, and encreased more and more, the Wind continuing high; so that we had almost been cast over into Apulia against our intention, chiefly between Cataxo and Ragusa, which Ptolomy called Epidaurus, had we not quickly made the Island of Me∣leda. So we spent our time in this Navigation, not on∣ly in hard and contrary Winds, with great pains and labour, but were besides obliged to be above Deck, (because she was filled up with Goods all vvithin to the vveight of above Tvvelve Thousand Centners) vvhere vve endured great Cold, and must remain there in all the Rain and Storms.

After this we went into a small Channel between this and another Island, where we lay at Anchor all Night: Early in the morning we saw a Galley coming from the Sea upon us. As soon as we saw her, before we could well discern her because of the too great di∣stance, we made all ready for our defence to resist her; but when she came nearer to us, and we found by her Flags that she was our friend, we were at rest again, and discharged, when she went by us, three great Guns to salute her according to the usual Custom of the Sea. When she was past by, we weighed our Anchor also, and sailed to Curtzola, another Island and Town, towards Dalmatia, called Corcyra nigra, which is very strong, and formerly did belong to Ragusa, but now it is subjected to the Venetians. This we left on the left hand, and went towards another now called Liesena, by Ptolomy called Pharia, which lay about 50 Leagues nearer to us. This we did soon make, and

arrived in the Port on Christmass-Eve, which is close by the Town, so that one can look very pleasantly into the wide open place. In the morning early, at the break∣ing of the day, those in the Town discharged some great Guns for Joy, which were in the next Church, standing near to the Harbor, according to their Ancient Custom on such great Holy-days. When these had be∣gun, those also that were upon the Castle, which is ve∣ry strong, and lieth close to the Town Walls up very high, did discharge some; after them, those also that were upon the 6 Gallies that arrived in the Harbor after us did the same; at length it came also to our turn, that lay at Anchor in the Harbor, as well the lit∣tle as the great ones, whereof there was a great many; there it began to bounce and crackle, (for in our Ship we had 16 great ones) and it made such a noise in the Harbor, that one would have thought all the Buildings fell over one another. This shooting also occasioned so great and thick a smoak, that we could hardly see one another. After Dinner we went ashore to buy good New Bread, instead of our Worm-eaten Biskets, where∣of (God be thanked) we found enough, which did re∣fresh us very much. In this time the Priest that was dangerously Sick of the Bloody Flux, was so well re∣covered of it, that he, with his Comrades, went over to Ancona, to go from thence to Rome. After we had rode at Anchor in this Harbor for four days, by reason of bad weather, we weighed at length, and came away to the Ancient and Famous Town Zara, (by Pto∣lomy called Jadera) which is accompted to be 150 Leagues. Between Liesena and Zara there lies abun∣dance of small Islands, where a great many Pirates shelter themselves, that are called by a peculiar Name Scacki. These sleep in the day time, and are here and there on high places, to take notice of the Ships that go up and down, that they may fall upon them in the Night, and take them at a disadvantage, so that it is very dangerous to Ride there; and that so much the more, because the Sea is hereabout very narrow, by reason of the many Islands that lye in it, wherefore the Pilots must daily take care, to get in good time in∣to

a Port, where they may Ride securely all Night-Nay, sometimes even the Ships in the Harbors are not secure from these Scacki's or Pirates, for so it happen'd that we were once in a Port at Anchor in our Voyage, which although it was very well secured and strong, yet we were not secure there from the Sacki's; as it had happen'd in this same Harbor but a year before, to a Ship called Cantarena (which the Sacki's did get into by Night) which came off greatly by the loss, so that they had great occasion to remember it; wherefore we divided our selves into four parts, and so kept Watch by turns all Night long. Whiles we thus kept Watch∣ing, we saw them several times come in small Boats, as if they were Fisher-men, yet as I am informed, there are often 40, 50, and 60 Men that lye hid in these small Boats, and watch their opportunity to get near to the great Ships, to Board them, and enter upon them. Wherefore as soon as we saw that they would come to us, we cry'd out, Fuoco, fuoco, that is to say, Fire, to shoot off the Guns at them; when they heard this, they presently answer'd, Amici, amici; that is to say, We are friends; and so they went away again. Now when we believed that we were escaped all danger, we got into a greater one by the oversight of our Pilot; for when he had order to go to Zara, he did not obey this Command, fearing that our Ship-master would put him out there because of his ill behaviour, and take ano∣ther in his room, wherefore that he might stay longer with us, he Steered for the Islands of Vergetes, think∣ing that because he could get over with Gallies (whom he had all along generally served) he might also get over with a Merchant-man (that was heavy Laden and so drew more Water) safe and without any danger. But this did not succeed well, for when we sailed along between the Islands, we lost the depth of Water by degrees, and at last strook with a great cracking, so that we could expect nothing but Shipwrack, which would of necessity have followed if our Rudder had not remained whole in this striking, and lifted up the Poop of the Ship, and so shoved the fore-part side∣wards into the depth; to which success the swelling

Sails did not also contribute a little. So did God, our dear Lord, Miraculously send that the Ship, chief∣ly by the help of the Rudder (which was at least three spans deeper in the Water than the Ship) got off and went on her way. Having escaped again this great mi∣sery and danger, we Landed in another Island that was not far off; over against which, on the side of Dalma∣tia, lieth the Village Mortera, between two famous Towns, viz. Zara and Sebernis, by Ptolomy called Fi∣cum, on a Mountain of this Island (behind which li∣eth a good Village) you may pleasantly see the whole situation, together with the confines of the Turks, very plainly; in this Village we took up and Lodged in it, until our Sloop, that we had sent out to Zara for another and more expert Pilot, came back again.

As soon as they arrived with the New Pilot, we broke up again, embarked and sailed for Venice, whi∣ther we had about 250 Italian Leagues. When we came out before the Castle of St. Michael (which lieth in the Sea over against Zara on a high Mountain) a North Wind arose, with such a Tempestuousness, that it had almost cast us towards Italy, had not our Pilot (who knew the Shores, and Landings of Ships, better than the former) done his best, and Landed presently, which could not be done but with great Might and La∣bour, (for we were bound to go against the Wind) yet we accomplished it; which you may easily guess, for of those 6 Gallies that met us in Liesena, but two could make our Harbour (because they were not strong enough for the Wind although they used their utmost force in Rowing) the rest were forced to go back again, and to shelter themselves behind the outward Islands.

Into the same Harbour was also just before us run in, to shun the ill Weather, a Yatcht, that had about eleven Men on Board; they did Pump out the Water that was run in, and dry their Sails upon the Land, by which we did conjecture that they also had not been in small danger. We did send some of our Men on Board of them to know who they were; and they an∣swer'd us, That they had Letters from the Great Sultan,

to their Masters the Venetians, concerning a Peace that was agreed upon, which their Envoy at Constantinople had sent by Land to Cattaro, one of their Towns, where they were delivered up to them, to carry them to Venice with all possible speed. After this great Storm was over, we went on again in our Voyage. By the way I saw nothing worth mentioning, but now and then a Village, where sometimes, if convenient, we Landed, and staid there all Night. In one of them I found a great deal of Saffron, which was very like unto that of Vienna, both in look and goodness. So at length we came to the large and very deep Golfo Car∣naro, by which within lieth the Town Segna, where the Windy-Country endeth, and the Hister-Land begin∣neth. This Golfo is about 100 Miles long and 30 broad, so that in clear Weather one may see very well over it, but it is very dangerous to sail over it, and be∣cause of its great motion, it is easily discern'd from the Sea from without; over this we came (God be thank∣ed) very well, and Landed at Rovigna, a small Town situated on a high Rock. This belongeth, as well as others thereabout, as Pola, Parentza, &c. to the Vene∣tians, from whence to Venice we have still about 100 Miles. But being that it is very dangerous to go from thence with large and Loaden Ships to Venice, there∣fore that Republick doth keep there always several Ex∣perienc'd Pilots (to prevent further mischief) that do nothing else but conduct the Ships that arrive in Histria safely thither. And these do not easily put off, unless they have very good mild and clear Weather; which was the occasion that our Ship did tarry there; so that we all, except the Seamen, which we left in the Ship behind, went into a Barge on the 14th day of January late, and went all Night long to Venice, where we all safely arrived the 15th of the same Month about Noon.

At my arrival I met with some very good Friends and Acquaintance, with whom I stayed for several days, to refresh and rest my self after the great Hard∣ships I had endured, and Dangers I had passed. After they had made me very welcome, and shewn unto me

all kindness and civility, and I had rested my self suf∣ficiently, I resolved to Travel with a Venetian Post in∣to Germany again; so we Travell'd together from thence to Treviso, Trent, Botzan, Inspruck, Amberga, &c. (where∣abouts, I found my Cousin Hans Widholtz, and George Hindermayer Botzen Riding by him, who kept me all that Night with them in their Inn) so at length I ar∣rived on the 12th day of February 1576, at Augsburg, my dear Native Country, to the great Rejoycing of my dear Parents and Relations, which I all found in indiffe∣rent good Health. I thank the Almighty, Merciful and Good God, that is one in his Essence, and three in Per∣sons, for all his Mercies he hath bestowed upon me, in all my great Dangers and Necessities, both by Sea and Land, for his dear Son Jesus Christ his sake. Praise, Glory and Thanks be to him, for ever and ever. Amen.

FINIS.

Notes

• * 1.1

  May 18.
• * 1.2

  19.
• * 1.3

  May 20.
• * 1.4

  21.
• * 1.5

  22.
• * 1.6

  May 23.
• * 1.7

  24.
• * 1.8

  25.
• * 1.9

  May 26.
• * 1.10

  27.
• * 1.11

  28.
• * 1.12

  May 29.
• * 1.13

  May 30.
• * 1.14

  June 1.
• * 1.15

  2, 3, 4, 5.
• * 1.16

  Septem∣ber 1.
• * 1.17

  2.
• * 1.18

  Sept. 3.
• * 1.19

  4.
• * 1.20

  5, 6, 7.
• * 1.21

  Sept. 8.
• * 1.22

  9.
• * 1.23

  10.
• * 1.24

  Sept. 11.
• * 1.25

  12.
• * 1.26

  13.
• * 1.27

  Sept. 14.
• * 1.28

  15.
• * 1.29

  16.
• * 1.30

  Sept. the 17.
• * 1.31

  18.
• * 1.32

  Sept. the 19.
• * 1.33

  20.
• * 1.34

  21.
• * 1.35

  22.
• * 1.36

  Sept. the 23.
• * 1.37

  24.
• * 1.38

  25.
• * 1.39

  Sept. 26.27.28.29.30.
• * 1.40

  I guess them rather to have been Cormorants; no Ea∣gles having long Necks.
• * 1.41

  Rauwolff was here too credulous and facil to suffer himself to be abused and im∣posed upon by these Relaters; for that there neither are, nor ever were any Animals with more Heads than one naturally, I do confidently affirm.
• * 1.42

  Too soon, for that there are no such Creatures in the World as either Uni∣corn or Griffin, I am as sure as I can be of a Ne∣gative. Nay, Dr. Brown hath well demonstrated, that there cannot be such a Creature as the common Pictures of him represent the Unicorn. I cannot again but wonder as the credulity of so curi∣ous and inquisitive a Man as Rauwolff, in believing the idle Stories of such a vain and lying Fellow.
• * 1.43

  Though Jerusalem might be situate in the highest part of Judea, yet are not the following places of the Scripture a suf∣ficient proof of it. For because it was the Ca∣pital, and supreme Town, in regard of Greatness, Multitude of People, Strength, Jurisdiction, and other Privileges, tho its site were not higher than that of other Towns, yet might People well enough be said to go up thither, it being highest in respect of Dignity, tho not of place. So we make no scruple to say in common speech, that who∣soever travels up to London, goes up thither; and whosoever travels from thence, goes down into the Country, let his Habitation be ne∣ver so much higher situate then London. Yet was Jerusalem situate on a Hill, which is enough to verifie all those Expressions, tho that Hill were not the highest in Judea.
• * 1.44

  James the Son of Al∣pheus, one of the Apostles, was usually called James the L••ss; but it was not he that was Elected first Bishop of Jerusalem, but James the Just, who was called the Lord's Brother, and was none of the Apostles.
• * 1.45

  [illustration]