A collection of curious travels & voyages in two tomes ... / by John Ray ...

CHAP. VIII.

Of the Mount Calvaria▪ and the Holy Grave of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ.

ON the 27th of Septemb. in the year 1575 after Din∣ner, the Father Guardian did send to the other Lords of the Temple, to let us in to the Temple of Mount Calvaria (which the Turks keep always Locked up.) But we and some other Friers in their own Habit, went with their Father Guardian to the Temple of the Mount, which first of all the Pious Queen Hellen Mo∣ther of the Great Emperor Constantine (after she had destroyed the Temple of Venus that was Built upon the Place of the Grave) did Build, as she did also build se∣veral Churches in several Places, Viz. That at Bethle∣hem, where Christ was Born: That of the Holy Apo∣stle James the greater, in the Place of the Upper Town, where he was Beheaded: And an other on the Mount of Olives, where Christ did Ascend into Heaven: As also another at Bethania, where Christ did Raise Laza∣rus his dear Friend, from the Dead, and in many other places, at Nazareth, and on the Mount Thabor, &c. But when afterward the City of Jerusalem was many times Besieged, and at length taken from the Christians, by the unbelieving Saracens, Hequen that malicious King of Aegypt did in the year of Christ 1011. Demolish these Churches, and so they remained until after his Decease his Son Daber came to the Government, who afterwards in the year 37. did give leave to Constantine the Empe∣ror of Constantinople (when he renewed with him their Old Correspondency) to Rebuild it again at his own Cost and Charges. In these our times, when it remain∣eth in the possession of the Turks, free Egress and Re∣gress, is quite denied to the Christian Pilgrims, that come to see the Holy Places: For when they saw that many Christians came yearly thither from all Places, Viz. From Armenia, Aethiopia, Syria, Aegypt, Greece,

Italy, Nay from all Places of Europe, they have put a cer∣tain Sum of Mony (according as they are near, or fur∣ther off, under his Dominions or not) to be paid by them, to be admitted. For some pay two or three Seckins or Ducats, other four and five; but we that are Outlandish, as Italians, French-men, and Germans (as well knowing that we do not spare for Mony) must pay Nine Seckins a piece, and that without any Re∣mission, must be paid in weighty Turkish or Venetian Ducats: And they keep the Temple Locked up close, until every one of them have paid their due: By these means the Grand Senior hath acquired himself a conside∣rable yearly Revenue, which amounts to several thou∣sand Ducats yearly. But yet it is now adays nothing near to what it hath been formerly, when all was under Popish Darkness, and the Pilgrims used to Flock thither in great Numbers. For since in our time, by the Grace of God, the Holy Gospel hath been brought to Light again, and began to be Preached (which sheweth us a far nearer and better way to find Christ, and to have true and full Pardon and Remission of our Sins) so that daily more come to the knowledge of the Truth, and return to the Lord, his Revenues decrease as much as the Number of the Pilgrims that used to resort thi∣ther.

When we came pretty near to the Temple, and ex∣pected to have seen Mount Calvaria, the Franciscans told us, that this Mount, together with the holy Grave, and the Garden (wherein Christ did first appear unto Mary Magdalen) were intirely taken into the Temple, so that no heigth at all was to be seen without.

Just when we came into the Court of the Temple there appeared an old Heathenish Prison, wherein are Prisoners kept to this day, near which did stand the Prison-Gate (whereof we saw still some part of the Wall up in the Wall of the Church) through which Christ did carry his Cross to the place of Sculls, which in former days was without the Town, as you may chiefly in St. Mark, Chap. 17. V. 20. clearly see, where he writes; And they led him out to crucifie him. And in the Thirteenth Chapter to the Hebrews, Vers. 12.

where it is plainly writ, that Christ suffered without the Gate. But when afterwards the Emperor Adrian did rebuild and enlarge the desolated Town, he did also surround with a Wall the place where our Lord Jesus Christ did suffer, which was without towards the North-West, beyond the Mount Moria, so that now it is situated almost in the middle of the City of Jerusa∣lem, and becuse of this Inlargement he call'd the Town after his Sirname Helia.

We staying a great while at the Gate, before they did open it unto us, several Oriental Christians, to wit, Greeks, JACOBITES, Armenians, &c. came to us to visit their Priests, and to perform their Devotion in it, so that about Three-score went in with us.

The Building of the Temple is very large, of strong Walls, and so thick, that it taketh away the Light within: it is richly covered with Grey Marble within and without, and supported by some Marble Pillars about a Fathom and a half thick, so strongly, that one may conclude from thence, that neither Labour nor Costs were spared in its Building. Yet the Turks, (notwithstanding the holy Places and the Costliness of the Building) have in some places spoiled and demo∣lished some part of the Walls thereof, so that now they are no more like to the old ones that were before, and besides (as the Guardian told us) half of it is hardly remaining. Yet it is still very large, and so well clo∣sed up again, that one can hardly perceive the Loss thereof.

As we went through, we passed by the Grave of Christ, in a glorious large Chapel, called our Ladies which the Franciscans have in possession, and is hung with Tapestry very well wrought. Within it is a great Altar, on each side whereof is to be seen a Nick, artificially made of white Marble, the Windows whereof are very well guarded with Iron Bars: in that towards the Left Hand is kept a piece of the Column whereon Christ was whip'd; it is of a red∣dish Colour, three spans long, and four over. In the o∣ther on the Right there is a small Crucifix, in the middle whereof is in-laid a small piece of the true Cross of Christ.

From thence we went further into their Vestiary; which hath several large Rooms, where we staid until the Franciscans had put on their usual Habits to go their Rounds with us, and to shew us the holy places with the usual Ceremonies. When they had made themselves ready we came out again into the Church, and left the Chancel of the Grecians, that is in the middle, and the holy Grave upon our Right Hand, and went to the Left to another Chapel, whereby the Grecians have an Altar without, by which in the Marble Floor, are two Holes to be seen, wherein they pretend that Christ was detained prisoner until they had fixed the Cross for him on the place of the Sculls. This Chapel is within very deep, and so dark, that when you go into it you believe that you go into a Cave, where the Romanists believe, as I understood by a French Man of their Convent, who was in a Priest's Habit, and as we went about, standing before the Altar, did tell us, what they had done to Christ our Lord, in eve∣ry place; that they did detain Christ there (as in a place where into they threw the Dust) to mock him, until his Cross was got ready for him.

Just by the Chapel behind the Chancel, they shew on a high Arch another place, where the Soldiers did share Christ's Cloaths amongst them, and cast Lots for his Coat.

Somewhat farther about they shew a pair of Stairs of Twenty nine Steps, which we descended, and came into a great Chapel of Queen Helen, situated under∣neath Mount Calvaria, wherein is still towards the Right Hand of the Altar a glorious and beautiful high Seat of Marble whereon the Queen used to sit, when she had a mind to overlook the Workmen, to see whether they went on right; for she loved Build∣ing mightily, as appeareth still to this day by the num∣ber of her mighty Buildings. Behind this Seat are eleven Steps, which go further down Mount Calvaria, where the Cistern hath been, wherein Queen Helen found the Cross of Christ.

Underneath on the Altar, 'tis true, there stands one, but it is new, and therefore to be supposed, to be put

there of late years. At the bottom of the Stairs do also appear very plainly the cracked Rocks, as it is mentioned in Scripture: And the rocks rent. And these Rents or Cracks are a foot wide, and so deep as to reach from the top to the bottom of the rocky Mount of Calvaria.

When we came up into the Church again, they shewed us at the bottom of Mount Calvaria, a Chapel that was locked up, and in it underneath the Altar a large blackish Stone with some reddish Spots upon it, in the shape of a piece of a Pillar, which was brought thither from Pilate's House of Judicature, whereon our Lord did sit, when the Soldiers did put the Crown of Thorns on his holy Head, and did salute him as a King with their Knees bended, and did also mock him, spit in his Face, and whip him. This Crown was twisted out of Thorns, called by the Arabians, Nausegi and Athausegi; and by the Grecians and Latinists, which have kept the same Name, Rhamnus, whereof there are three sorts, the first of which is the true one (which is also common in France and Italy) which doth not only grow without, but also within the Town of Jerusalem plentifully; this puts out early in the Spring, into long, thin and pliable Twigs, with a great many long and strong Prickles. Just by it cometh out above from the Chancel of the Grecians, a path up to Mount Calvaria, which they forced from the Georgians, as they did before from the Armenians, by giving Money to the Turks. Which is very common in these Countries; for if one hath any Business to be done by the Turks, it cannot be easier obtained, than if you bribe them more than your Adversary, wherefore it happeneth very often that such places are taken away from one Nation, and given to the other.

Underneath this Way or Gallery you ascend nine∣teen Steps to go up to Mount Calvaria, where we saw two Chapels one behind the other, which were open, and had a very delicate Floor, artificially inlaid wirh Flowers of several Colours, the like whereof is hardly to be seen any where else.

At the top of the Stairs we left our Shooes, and went in, and attended the Priest, which did also there, as he had done in other places before, give us a short account of what had been done to our Lord Jesus Christ in these places, viz. that in the hindmost Chapel his Hands and Feet had been extended, and sharp Nails drove through them, and so with a great deal of Indignation he was fixed to the Cross. And that in the foremost our Lord Christ did hang on the Cross be∣tween the two Malefactors, where there was still to be seen the Hole wherein the Cross of our Lord did stand. He also briefly repeated to us the Seven Words which he did say when he was upon the Cross; and for a Conclusion he told us, that his Holiness the Pope had laid there Indulgences for ever, for all Sins and Trans∣gressions, to be distributed among the Pilgrims.

When we had done we went further into the Cha∣pel, and saw first a place two Cubits high, which was also covered with fine Ashen-coloured Marble, watered with Blew, in the middle whereof was a round Hole about a Span over, and was lined with Tin, wherein did stand the Cross of our Lord Christ, which is so closely tipped and lined, that the Pilgrims can take neither much nor little of this, nor any other place, as the holy Grave, or Bethlehem where Christ was born, &c. Wherefore notwithstanding the pretence of the Franciscans, that in their Agnus Dei's and Crucifixes are little pieces of the fore-mentioned places, it is all false and nothing of Truth in it, which they must confess themselves, it being all covered with Marble. Near to this Hole, both to the Right and Left, where the Crosses of the Two Thieves did stand, in the Room of them two others are erected, where hard by that on the Left at the inside, is to be seen a long and large Fissure in the Rock of the Mount, which the Queen left on purpose open in the Marble Pavement, so that you may very plainly see it, and it goeth down very deep, as I have told you before.

When we come down again from the Mount, and come out behind the Chancel toward the Gate of the great Church, there lieth in the Pavement a fine and

large Marble, which is surrounded, or taken in, with Iron Barrs in the same place, where Joseph and Nico∣demus, the Two Disciples of Christ, did wrap up the Body of Christ, after it was taken down, in Linnen with Spices.

From thence as we went further towards the Grave of our Lord Christ, we left below towards the Left on the place of a Scull, another Chapel, wherein are the Graves of some Christian Kings, viz. Gottofredi, and Baldewin, &c. which took the Land of Promise by force from the Infidels, and came towards the Right by the Chancel of the Greeks into a great round and high Building of the holy Grave, which butts upon the Church, and is below towards it, it standing upon very strong double Marble Pillars, quite open: it is covered with Lead, and hath at the top a great Window, where the Light falleth in, which is four Fathoms square, where underneath is the holy Grave of our Lord Jesus Christ under the open Sky, so that at all times, both Rain, Dew and Snow fall upon it.

Before the Passage into the Sepulchre is a small Cha∣pel, wherein is nothing of any moment to be seen, than a Square Stone, just before the Door of the Grave; this is of the true Rock of the Grave, about eight Inches thick, whereon (as some say) the Angel of the Lord, that rolled back the Stone from the Door, did sit. This was also useful and did serve to keep the great Grave-Stone, that was before the Door of the Grave (which is hardly three Foot high) steady, that it might not give backwards. That the Door was but low, and that the Stone did lean before it, you may sufficiently see out of the Twenty fourth Chapter of the holy E∣vangelist S. Luke, Verse 12. when he saith: Then arose Peter, and ran unto the sepulchre, and stooping down, &c. And also in the Twentieth Chapter, and the Eleventh Verse of St. John, where you read: But Mary stood without at the sepulchre weeping: and as she wep••, she st••oped down, and looked into the sepulchre. And also the holy Apostle and Evangelist St. John came before Peter to the Sepulchre, and looked into it, and saw the Linnen Cloaths, but he did not go in himself. And we

read also of the Door of the Sepulchre, and that the great Stone before it used to be rolled. When you will go into the Door you must stoop very much, and ra∣ther creep than go into it. The Sepulchre within is even with the Floor of the Chapel, and of the whole Church, and is so large, that four persons may stand very easily by one another.

After the Priest had ended his Speech which he made in the Sepulchre, of the Resurrection of Christ, which we heard without in the Chapel, and had also pro∣claimed the Popes Indulgences for ever, we went in also, and looked upon the Rock whereout the Sepul∣chre was cut, and found it underneath on the Right Hand (altho it had been very much torn by the Infi∣dels) still in very good Order, so that we could di∣scern it still distinctly, where now the Monks have made an Altar, and covered it with a large fair Marble. Over it hung about Twenty Lamps, which made the Sepulchre (which else is very dark) very light; one whereof belongeth to the Catho∣lick King of Spain, another to the Christian King of France, and others to other Princes; they look very carefully after them, because they bring them in a considerable Revenue yearly. The holy Sepulchre is lined within and without with grey Marble, and chiefly without some adorned with carved Columns that stand between it.

On the outside of the Door of the Sepulchre doth hang a fine Golden Piece, wherein our Lord Christ is very artificially wrought, as he did appear after his Re∣surrection unto Mary Magdalen first, and afterwards also to the Women: at the top of the Sepulchre is also a small round Steeple, which is covered with Lead, and upheld with six double Marble Columns: besides this there is at the Back of the Sepulchre another plain Chapel, wherein the JACOBITES, as I was in∣formed, perform their Devotion.

More at the Left Hand, as we went out of the Se∣pulchre again, near to it in the Pavement, are two large Circles, rarely inlaid of Mosaick Work, in the middle whereof are two round Stones of Marble, one

whereof is white, and the other red, lying in the same place of the Garden, where Mary Magdalen turned a∣bout, and took our Lord Jesus Christ to be the Gar∣dener. Thus much I thought convenient to relate of these places that are shewn in the Circuit.

When I found my self to be in these places where our dear Lord Christ did walk about, teach, and by his Passion, Death, Resurrection and Ascension work our Redemption, and procure and purchase our Salvation, from his Heavenly Father again, I did remember and rejoice at these incomparable Benefits, and merciful Treasures with all my heart; for it cannot otherwise be, but that every true Christian, that is upon this Mount of Calvary, and thinks there of the Cross of Christ, and in the Sepulchre of his glorious Resur∣rection, must find great Passions within his Breast: as you also read in the last Chapter of St. Matthew, Verse 8. of the Women, where you find these Words: And they departed quickly from the sepulchre, with fear and great joy. This I found also in my Heart and Mind, so that it was, as if I saw our Lord Jesus Christ the Son of the Almighty God, to humble himself, and to be∣come obedient to his Heavenly Father, even to Death, nay, to the Death of the Cross, to bring us miserable, sinful Men to Rights again, and to deliver us clearly from all Debts and Punishments, and so to procure us the only and true Indulgences.

After we had seen Mount Calvaria, the Sepulchre of Christ our Lord, and other places, we went into the Vestiary again to eat our Supper.

After Supper, they led us up into the Gallery (which is in the round Building over against the holy Sepul∣chre) to stay there all Night: but some of the Ea∣stern Christians sung below in the Church, others did grumble together, and played with their sweet sound∣ing Cymbals (which were made of pure Metal about the bigness of a large Walnut-shell) so pleasant Tunes or Musick, that I rather looked on them, and minded their Musick, than slept.

The next Morning my Comerades, after they had been at Confession, and received the Sacrament upon

Mount Calvaria, came to me into the Church again, with an intention to go round once more. So we saw the holy places once more, and at last also the Cha∣pel, which we left the day before at the Foot of the Hill on our Left Hand, belonging to the Grecians; they let us in very willingly, because of our Chaplain, who was also a Grecian, and shewed us in it at the fur∣thest part where it was pretty dark, a large and deep Crack of the Rock: afterwards also on each side, some fine and high Tombs of some Kings, viz. that of Gottefrid de Boulion, and others, which were for some time possessed of the Land of Promise: these stand on delicate Columns, cut out of curious grey Marble, whereon are some Epitaphs, which I thought to set down here underneath, together with a short Relation when they did take the Land of Promise, and the fa∣mous City of Jerusalem, how long they were possessed of it, and how many Kings did succeed one another in it.

Plants observed by Monsieur Belon, to grow about some of the Holy Places.

Near Jerusalem on the Mounts, Hills and Valleys.

Adrachne seu Arbutus folio non serrato, Picea, Aria, I∣lex cocci-glandifera, Terebinthus, Lentiscus, several sorts of Cislus, Capparis Spin••sa, Paliurus or Christ's Thorn, Fig-trees, Olives, Almonds a sort of Wild Peach, Jujubes or Zizyphus, Esculus or Dwarf-Oak, Alaternus, White Mulberry for the Silk-Worms, the Inhabitants trading a little in Silk and Kermes, which they gather from a Holm Oak: Sesamum, Gossipium seu Xylon, Thym∣bra, Marum, Origanum Heracleoticum, Tragoriganum, Salvia, Stachys, Ruta Sylv. Trifolium Asphaltites: a rare fort of Hy••scyan••us on the Walls of Jerusalem: Azada∣rach Arbor in Palestinâ secundum D. Monconny.

Between Mount Sinai, Mount Oreb and Suez.

Oenoplia a sort of Zizyphus; Arbor Lanigera or Cot∣ton-Tree; Glans seu Nux Ʋnguentaria, call'd Bal••nus Mirepsica; Alcanna a Species of Ligustrum, of great use and sale for Dying and Colouring: Senna, Rose of Jericho, or Hiericho a sort of Thlaspi, Colocynthis, Am∣brosia, or Oak of Cappadocia.

Some Plants mentioned by Breynius, and taken out of Rauwolff's Hort. Sic. or else found in those Countries where Rauwolff Travelled.

Acaciae similis Mesopotamica minutissimis foliis, siliquâ integrâ contortâ, crassâ, & obtusâ; sive siliqua Nabathaea nobis,

Azadirachta foliis ramosis majoribus Syriaca sive vul∣garis flore caeruleo maj. Perlato, falso Sycomorus Italorum, Bellon. Astergir Rhasis, & incolis Zenselacht Rauwolff.

Horminum Syriacum, tomentosum, foliis Coronopi, sive profundè laciniatis Breyn. Horminum rarum foliis laciniatis Rauwolff. in Herbar. vivo.

Lapathum Rotundifolium montis Libani, semine maximo Breyn. Ribes Arabum Rauwolf.

Lycium Buxi foliis angustioribus Syriacum Breyn. Lyci∣um Dioscoridis Rauwolff. in Herbar. Hadhad Arabibus, & Zaroa incolis montis Libani, ejusdem. In Syria & Pa∣lestinâ observavit Rauwolffius.

Lycium Buxi foliis rotundioribus Syriacum vel Persicum Breyn. Hoc Lycium apud Rauwolffium cum priore con∣funditur.

Marrubium villosum Syriacum, sive montis Libani Breyn.

Melanthium Syriacum minus frutescens latifelium, Rutae flore, fructu tricapsulari, Breyn. Ruta voca••a Harmala J.B.

Melilotus minima Syriaca. Nephel sive Nephal, Iben∣baithar & Malasesae.

Plantago angustifolia minor lanuginosa Syriaca & Creti∣ca, pediculis & capitulis maturi••ate ad terram inflexis

Breyn. Leontopodium Alpin. Exot. Leontopodium Cre∣ticum C.B.

Plantago angustifolia p••niculis Lagopi C.B. Planta∣go quinquenervia cum globulis albis pilosis J.B. Catanance Dioscoridis Rauwolff. in Herbario vivo.

Satureia frutescens Arabica folio fimbriato hirsuto Breyn. Sathar Arabum Rauwolff.

Tithymalus (vel Tithymalo affinis) aphyllos dictus major latifolius, flore sanguineo aviculae capitulum repraesentante Breyn. An Planta lactaria Xabra & Camarronum Rhasis Rauwolff.

Jacea maxima Hicrosolymitana Alpin. Exot.

Marum Syriacum foliis incisis.