A collection of curious travels & voyages in two tomes ... / by John Ray ...

THE SECOND PART OF THE TRAVELS OF Dr. Leonhart Rauwolff INTO THE Eastern Countries. Wherein is treated of his Journey from Halepo through the Famous Town of Babylonia, to Bagdet; what he saw by the way, and what did befal him in going and coming by Water and by Land. VVith a brief Account of the high Mount of Libanus, of the strange Plants and Inhabitants thereof.

CHAP. I.

How I departed from Halepo to the Famous City of Bir, and how I sailed from thence on the Euphrates to old Babylon.

AFter I had stay'd a good while in Halepo, and had seen and understood the Trade and Merchan∣dices of the Inhabitants, together with that of all the other Nations, viz. Grecians, Arme∣nians, Georgians, Arabians, Persians, and Indians, which come and go daily with their Caravans, and very well

observed and understood their Manners and Customs, and had also Collected a fine parcel of foreign and unde∣scribed Plants; I resolved to go farther Eastward into Mesopotamia, Assyria, and Babylonia, &c. as the anci∣entest and most fruitful Countries that ever were, where the ancientest People, and the most Potent Mo∣narchs did inhabit. But these Countries lying far off, and the Way that leadeth thither, passing through vast Desarts and Wildernesses, and therefore the Voyage be∣ing so much the more difficult and dangerous to at∣tempt and accomplish; I first look'd out for a trusty Companion, to take as my Assistant, and met pre∣sently with an experienced Dutchman, that had lived a great while in Halepo, who granted my request (be∣ing as desirous to go this Voyage as my self) to go along with me. We agreed presently, and began to consider, which was our best Way to take. But that we being Strangers, might not be taken to be Vaga∣bonds or Spies (they being very suspicious) from whence they might presently take occasion (as the Turks use to do) to lay great Avarias, or unjust Taxes, upon us, which the Christians that deal to these Parts, have of∣ten to their great Loss and Damage experienced; we did consider, and found, that the Trading here was very great, so that they did not only deal from hence, into Armenia, Egypt, and Constantinople, (for from thence come the Caravans through Natolia, in about a Months time) but also very much into Persia and India: Where∣fore we thought best to profess our selves Merchants, that so we might Travel the more safely with other Merchants, in order thereto, to buy some Merchandices, that would Sell in those Places, and to carry them a∣long with us. That we might put this in execution, my formerly mentioned Friend Hans Ʋlrich Raft, from Ʋlm, took great Pains to furnish me at my De∣sire and Request, with several fit Commodities for those Places, upon account of my Patron, Mr. Melchior Manlich, which I got pack'd up immediately, to go with them to the Famous City Bagdet, situated upon the Tigris, where is a great Staple and Deposition of Merchandices that are to go farther for Persia and India.

But seeing that seldom any Merchants go from Ha∣lepo further into these Countries, so that our Habits are very rarely seen there; we cloathed our selves as is usual, in the common Turkish Habit (that every body might not presently look upon us as Strangers); first, we had long blue Cabans, which are button'd before quite down, and cut out about the Neck, not unlike to those of the Armenians; and white Drawers made of Cotton, that hung down to our Ankles, and were drawn in, and tied about our Bodies, and also Shirts after the same Fashion, and without Collars. We also fitted our selves with white Turbants with a blue Brim, such as Christians usually wear, and put on yellow Shooes which were painted, before guarded with Nails, and with Horse Shooes behind. Besides this we put on a kind of a Frock, made of a certain course Stuff called Meska in their Language, which is common among the Moors. They are generally made of Goats and Asses Hair, pretty nar∣row, without Sleeves, and short, reaching only to our Knees. But these Stuffs being not all alike, the finest thereof (chiefly that which is striped white and black) is taken for Cloaths; and the courser for Tents and Portmantles, wherein they carry their Provision through the Desarts, and also keep their Camels and Mules meat, hanging it about their Necks. This puts me in mind of the plain cloathing which the ancient Inhabitants of these Countries, (chiefly the Israelites, when they mourned for their deceased Relations, or when they repented of their committed Iniquities, and turned from them, and prayed God to forgive them their ac∣cumulated Transgressions) used to put on, as we read in the 37th. Chapter of Genesis, where Jacob lamented the Death of his Son Joseph; and in the Book of the Prophet Jonas, of the Ninevites, who believing the Prophet's Words, denouncing their Destruction within Forty Days, and repenting of their Sins, put on Sack∣cloth, and prayed to God for forgiveness. The like we read of the King and Prophet David, after he had numbred his People. Item, in the 10th. Chapter of Luke and other places, &c. that they put on Sackcloth and did repent in Ashes. It is therefore very probable,

that those were very like unto them that are still in use.

When we had thus accoutred our selves for the Voyage, and provided us with all Necessaries, viz. Cloths, Merchandices, Provision of Biskets and Drink, and did stay only for some Fellow-travellers, we were still doubtful whether it were more convenient for us to go by Land with Caravans, which go from hence and Da∣mascus very strong to Bagdet, through great Sands and Desarts in Fifty Days, more or less, according as the Weather proveth: Or, whether we should go by Water, either upon the Tigris or the Euphrates, there being good Opportunity to go in Company with others. But it happening that we met with some Armenian Merchants Servants that did live at Halepo, who were also provided with Goods, and had a mind to go into the same Countries, we did readily embrace this Opportunity, partly because they understood the Turkish and Arabian Languages, which two are chiefly spoken in Syria, and partly because some of them had been four times al∣ready in the Indies; wherefore we put our Goods to theirs, and loaded a great many Camels together, to deliver them to us at Bir, to ship them there upon the Euphrates; And that we might pass every where in the Turkish Dominions, we took a Pass from the Bashaw and Cadi, and so we began our Travels to Bir, distant Three Days Journey, the 13th. of August, Anno 74. By the way we were so strange to one another, that in our new Fashioned Cloaths we did hardly know one another among them all. After we had the first Day a rough Road, and travelled through many Desarts and uninhabited Places, we reached at Night a little Vil∣lage, where we encamped and pitched our Tents. We put all our Packs in a circle round about us, and with∣out them our Beasts (as it is usual in great Caravans) to defend us from the Assaults of the Moors in the Night. A little after Midnight we heard a great Ca∣ravan of many Camels and Asses to go by, very near to us, which after it was passed, we broke also up and followed them; when the Day Light appeared, we saw several plow'd Fields more than the Day before, and

also here and there in some pleasant Places many Tents of the Arabians, which were fixed together as it were in a Camp; ranged very orderly into Streets. After we had that Morning travelled very hard, so that our Beasts under their heavy Loads began to be tired in the great Heat, we rested behind a little Chapel, to refresh our selves, and to feed our Camels; in the mean time some poor Women came down from the High-lands to us to gather the Dung of our Camels to burn it in∣stead of Wood, whereof they were in great want. When the great Heat was over, and we had staid there for two Hours, we went on again, and came before it was Night, to a little Village lying in a Valley, near which upon the Height, the Arabians had formed a great Camp: We went up to them, and pitched our Tents in the Plain by them, and kept as abovesaid a good Watch. They came quickly to us, spoke kindly to us, and their Wives brought us Water and good Milk; but after we saw that they were very naked and hungry, and in their shape like to our Gypsies, we did not trust them at all, but kept a very good Watch all that Night. These are Vagabond People, that are used to Idleness from their Infancy, and will rather endure Hun∣ger, Heat and Cold, than get any thing by their Handy-work, or Till the Fields, or Plant Garden-herbs for their Maintenance, although they might do it in several fruitful Places in their own possession. So you find here a great Number of them by the sides of these sandy Desarts, that have no where any Habita∣tion, but live in their Tents like as the Beasts do in Caves, and go like unto the Gypsies from place to place, until they light on one, where they may live a great while with their Cattle, and when all is eat up, want dri∣veth them from thence, to look out for another.

On the 15th. early before break of Day, we were up in the cool of the Day, with an intention to reach to Bir that Night, but our Camels were grown so faint by reason of the excessive Heat and the great Burthens, that they fell down several times, wherefore we look∣ed out for a convenient place where we might stay all Night, and found at last a Village near which we

pitched our Tents, eat some Gourds and Biskets, and so went to rest.

Two Hours before break of the Day, we began our Journey again, and came early in the Morning to the great River called Euphrates, we went over with our Goods and Chattel, and fixed our Tents before the Town near the River, on the other side, to stay for a Barge that was to come from Armenia, to go from thence to Babylon, which is now called Felugo. By the way I saw no Herbs of any worth, except the Galega, in our Language called Goats-rue, which grew plenti∣fully on the dry Heaths; and near to the Road, the first sort of Apocynum, by us called Dogs-bane, very like unto the great Celandine in its Leaves and Pods: I also saw whole acres of Turkish Corn called Sesamo, and o∣thers all sown with Cotton, and also a kind of Esula, very full of Milk, wherewith the fallow Grounds were so filled up, that at a distance, you would have taken it for good Corn. Seeing that the Scammony that uses to be brought to Halepo, is wont sometime to be very sharp, therefore it may very well be, that they adul∣terate it with this Esula. Near the Town grew abun∣dance of Acacia, called Schack and Schamuck, as is a∣bove mentioned, which are here in Stem and Fruit, greater and larger than ever I saw any any where. The Town Bir is situated on the other side of the great Ri∣ver Euphrates in Mesopotamia, near the high Hill Taurus, just like Tripolis near the Libanus, or our Losanna on our Alps: It is neither big nor strong, but pretty well defended by a Castle that lyeth on a high Rock above the River, not easily to be taken. There is a very plea∣sant Country round about it, and very fruitful, which (chiefly on this side of the River where it is plain) is very well Tilled and Sown with Corn (which they did just thrash out when we came, with little Waggons drawn by Oxen) and here and there are very good Villages. But beyond the River it is more hilly, which kind of Ground extends it self a great way towards the East, and divideth Armenia from Mesopotamia. It is at the top very rough and bare; nothing but Bu∣shes and Herbs to be seen there; wherefore abundance

of Beasts, chiefly Lambs and Goats, are daily brought down, which are carried over the Euphrates, and so driven to Halepo and other adjacent places. This Ri∣ver where it runs by the Town is about a Mile broad, and so deep that it is not easy to make a Bridge over it: Yet because it hath not a swift Current in that place, it is not very dangerous to Sail on it, except where it enlargeth it self (as it doth in great Desarts) or else where it divideth it self into several Branches, so that the Water-men do not know, which is the best way for them to take; wherefore the Merchants that have a mind to come quicker and with less Pains to Bagdet with their Merchandices, carry them by Land to Orpha, to the Famous Town of Carahmet, which lyeth Six Days further towards the East, on the Bor∣ders of Assyria and Media, upon the rapid River Tigris, where is a great Deposition of Merchandices, that are sent from thence to Ormutz and the Indies. The Eu∣phrates is continually muddy, and therefore almost not fit to be drunk, except you let it stand Two or Three Hours, until the Sand and Mud is sunk down to the bottom, which sometimes is of the thickness of an Inch: So that in every House where they have no Wells, all along the River in Towns and Villages, they have several great Pots which they fill out of the Ri∣ver, and let them stand until it be setled, but if they have occasion to drink of it before, they drink through their Towels.

During the time of our staying there they brought us several sorts of Fishes they had caught in the River to Sell, and among the rest one sort called Geirigi, which in their Shape and Scales were very like unto Carps, only they were not so thick in the Belly, but a great deal longer and bigger, so that sometimes one of them did weigh three Rotula's of their Weight, which is about Seventeen or Eighteen of our Pounds. They are very delicate and good to eat, and so cheap, that we could buy one for one Medin, in our Money worth a∣bout three Pence. To catch these, our Ship's Crew flung out oftentimes some Pellets made up with Coc∣culus Indic; (which Fruit is named by them Deam Sa∣mec)

and presently after some of the Fish flung them∣selves up at the top of the Water, whereupon they jum∣ped out of the Ship, to catch them, and to carry them a-shoar. I saw also a peculiar sort of Vultures, which were so tame, that they did not only sit very thick upon the Houses, but they sat down in the Street be∣fore all the People without any fear, they are more of an Ashen Colour than ours, but for bigness, height and the rest, exactly like unto them. Besides these there was another sort of them, that were something bigger, and of a lighter Colour than the former, and had some black at the Ends of their Wings like unto our Storks. They eat also Carrion, and Meat, and are somewhat wilder, wherefore they may be affirmed to be the very same that Rhasis called Gyuni, and Avicenn, Rachame. During the time that we staid there, a Bashaw was sent hither by the Turkish Sultan, with some hundred Spa∣hi's, pretty well armed, for his Master did intend to make War with the Trusci, that so he might de∣fend the Confines of Syria, Mesopotamia, and Ar∣menia, &c. from being assaulted by them, and to keep every thing secure. The Trusci live on the Mountain of Libanus, and pretend to be the Off spring of those People that under Godfrey de Bouillon did possess them∣selves again of the Land of Promise. They are since so much encreased, that they are able to bring into the Field Sixty Thousand (most of which are very good Gunners) which if occasion be, they can bring toge∣ther in a short time. The Grand Signior seeing that they encreased daily, so that he did fear they would be in time too great for him, to prevent this (as then the common Discourse went) and to subdue them, and bring them under his Yoke, did summon some Ba∣shaws and Sangiacs, chiefly him of Damascus to bring together a great Army, to fall upon them. But which way he did beat them, and how he encroach∣ed upon them, I shall (because I did for this time, during my Travels, hear no more of it) relate more largely after my return. The Spahi's which came with the Bashaw, took (because they would not be Idle) their Diversion in Running, Shooting with Arrows,

and in Fencing, or Cudgel-playing, and sometimes the Country People came in with them, and played with them, but not in so many sorts of Arms as the Fencing-Masters do in our Country, viz. with Daggers, Swords or Halbarts, for these are not in fashion in those Coun∣tries. They take instead thereof only Cudgels, with them they approach towards one another three times, yet not with such flourishes and neatness as our Fen∣cers do before they begin, for their long Cloaths hinder them. In their left hand they have a Buckler which is about a Foot Diameter round, covered with Lea∣ther, and stuffed out with Hair; in their right Hand they have a Cudgel, wherewith they strike strait at one another in the first bout, as the Boys do in our Country, but in the second and third bout, they strike cross-ways, chiefly in the third which is the last, which they take off cleaverly with their Bucklers; and some∣time they strike at one anothers Legs, but never to hurt one another; when this is done, they turn back and march off. This manner of Fencing is very common in these Countries.

At length after we had staid a great while, several Ships did arrive from above, and ours, for which we did stay, among them. So our Patron begun to load, and to fit himself for our departure: And so did two more that had a mind to go in Company with us. One among them belonging to a Turk was laden only with Corn, to carry during the Scarcity (which was oc∣casioned by the great Heat, and for want of Rain) to Bagdet. We also bought several sorts of Fruits, viz. Cibebs, Anguria's, Garlick and Onions, &c. and took also along with us some Ground Corn, as is usual to do in such Voyages, which with Rice Flower is fit to make Puddings, or to bake Bread of; Honey and other things to serve as Provision for our Ship; for we were to travel a great way through many De∣sarts and Places not inhabited, where nothing was to be had. For there are no Inns upon this River, as upon the Rhine or Danube, where they dress Victuals for Travellers against they come. And that we might have sometimes something Hot to eat, we provided our∣selves

with several Cooking Vessels (as is usual in these cases) to dress our Meat in. But the Master of our Ship still wanting both Men and Merchandices to load his Ship withal, we were forced to stay somewhat longer, for other Merchants which came in a little time from Halepo (whereof some were Armenians, some Persians, others from Bagdet and Balsora) to us; with these also came into the Ship Four Souldiers that were listed by the Turks to go to Bagdet, to rein∣force the Confines of Persia: Our Master also took in some of their Jews, which are worse than ours, and so we were warned to have a care of them. Besides all these we were forced to take in some of their Re∣ligious Men, which had long before begged there∣about, for they commonly live by begging, and desire you to give them something Alla hitsi, that is, for God's sake, and yet if they find an Opportunity they will fall upon you and Rob you. They are very ill-favour∣ed, idle, and yet very hardy Men, that run about all Countries, and often do a great deal of hurt; where∣fore one must have especial Care of them, chiefly upon the Road. Yet for all this they have in these Coun∣tries very great Privileges; they pretend to great Ho∣liness and Devotion, and pray often, and perswade the Vulgar sort of People, that God doth hear their Pray∣ers before any others, and grants their desires, but People do not believe them so readily now, as their Ancestors have done formerly, wherefore they do not re∣main long in one place, that their Roguery may not so much appear.

CHAP. II.

Which way we went into the Ship, and sailed to Racka; and how the Son of the King of Arabia with his Retinue came to our Ship to demand his Customs: What else we saw by the way, and what we did suffer from the Arabians and their Mendicants.

AFter our Ship as well as the others was sufficiently loaden, and with all Necessaries provided, we went aboard, and began our Voyage in the Name of God, the 30th. Day of August, Anno 74. (having stay'd there and lost Seventeen Days) in the Evening, with an intention to go that Night three Leagues further. But two of our Ships got into a branch of the River, where∣of there are several in the very beginning: Our Water∣men took great pains to bring them into the right way again, and stayed for them, which retarded us so long, that we were forced to stay all Night, at a Market-Town, called Caffra, which lieth a good League below, on the top of a Hill, where we landed.

The next morning at break of Day, we got in again and in the beginning we went on very fortunately, and began to leave by degrees on our left Hand, the Moun∣tain Taurus, which extendeth its self Eastward, and went more to the right, through the great Desarts and Sandy Places of Arabia, where that River divideth it self into several broad Branches, that the Skippers knew hardly how to steer the right way. When we went on so, thinking of no danger, for the Turkish Ship was got already very safe through one of them, the second (which we followed) stuck upon the Sand, by the ne∣glect of their Pilot towards the right, so that it did not only stick there, but took away the Stream from us, which turned their Ship cross very violently, after such a manner, that we were forced (because we were too

nigh, and our Ship was in her full running, so that we could turn no way) to fall foul upon it. So ours drove with the Stream upon theirs with that force, that we broke the two uppermost Boards of their side; so the Water ran in, and the Ship sank deeper. Our Ship, although it had received no hurt, yet did it not go on, but stuck by the other. Whereupon we began to la∣bour hard, removed the Sand below, and made a way to get it clear; after we had half drawn it before the o∣ther into the Stream, the Stream drove it so hard against the other that also a row and a half of our side-board were broken, and if it had broken the second row quite, we had incurred the same Mischief and Damage as they. When we were in this Condition, and could not otherwise think but that we must perish all together, yet our merciful God and Lord did order it so, that we did not only secure the breach, but came into the right River free and quit before the other Ship, where we did land immediately. After we had recovered our selves a little, we did not delay to assist the other, but unloaded our Ship, to load theirs into it, and so to land them, which we did with all speed: In the mean time appeared behind the Trees and Tamarisks at each side a good many Arabians, both on Horse-back and foot, and came so near, that they were not afraid to attack our Guards we had left with our Goods, and to attempt to rob us. But when they found resistance, and heard several of our Guns discharged on our side, they were frighted (for Guns were unknown to them) to that Degree, that they turned their Backs and run away as hard as they could drive. At last we attemp∣ted to draw out the Ship together with some small Goods that were still left in it, which succeeded very well, for when we hoisted our Sails and drew them on, and wrought with all our might and strength, it yield∣ed by Degrees, so that at length we got it quite off, and brought it a-shoar. The loss of their Merchan∣dices, although it was but small in quantity, yet it was very great in their Silk, Stuffs of Damasco, Soap, Sugar, Roots of Zarneb Melchi, which is good for the Pain in the Back, as is here before mentioned,

Figs and Corn, which suffered very much; wherefore they begged of us, that we would be pleased to stay with them, until they had dried their Goods and mended their Ship, so that they might go along with us more safely through these Desarts, which we granted them readily. During this our Stay, when we were helping them, it fell out that I and one of my Comrades were falsly accused by some Jews, before some of their Re∣ligious Men, that we were often fudling with the Master of the Ship, which the Jew did on purpose, to make us Out-landish Men hated among them (for they do according to their Law not easily admit of drinking of Wine) and to disparage us; and this his Intention did succeed so well that when their Clergy∣men did understand it, they became very angry with us, took our Vessel of Wine, flung it into the River, and drew it upon the Land where they let it run out, which did not well please the Souldiers and others, where∣fore they took our part, and did give the Jew for it a very severe Reprimand. But as no good Deed remain∣eth unrewarded, and no ill one unpunished, so it hap∣pened here; for the chiefest of them (which was a Moor and of the Order of the Dervis) was the next Day punished severely, for a frivolous Cause, whereof I unadvisedly was the occasion. While our Goods were yet on shoar I got towards Night upon the Balls to stand Centinel, it being my turn; so when I saw one with a Mug full of Water, I desired him to give me some to drink, which he was willing to do, and reached me the Mug, I going to take it, trod by chance upon a Fiddle of one of the Turks and broke it: Although he had had great occasion to be angry with me for this, yet (understanding that I had Giue enough to mend it) he was presently quieted and well contented. The next Morning we sat together and mended the Fiddle as well as we could; when the Dervis saw us busy about the Fiddle, he was very angry that we did not help to spread out the Merchandices, which we had done already before we began; so he took the Fid∣dle, broke it and flung it into the River; then he came back, and pretended to bang us, thinking to have the

same Success with this as he had with the Wine. But the Turk seeing this, took up a good Cudgel that was thrown up by the River, and struck him several times over his Head and Limbs, that the Blood ran down his Ears and Face, and at length he grew so angry that he went to draw his Scymeter, but before he could, we stept in between them, got them asunder, mitigated the business and appeased them. So this Saint of theirs looked very dismal in his long and lank black Hair, and had besides on his Body here and there several Scars, viz. on his Head and Breast, and above all upon his Arms, which he had cut or burnt himself, which is usual to that Order, and other Turks to do; which set often on their Flesh burning and red glowing Spangs, or instead of them Linen Rags, about an Inch thick twisted very hard together, broad below, and pointed on the top, tapering just like unto a Pyramid, which they set on Fire, and let it burn out with a great deal of Patience upon their bare Skin, so long until it is quite consumed and brought to Ashes, then they tie it up with Cotton; they also do the same sometimes in Rheums of the Head and Eyes, &c. to dry them up, or to turn them, and to draw them into another place. So I have seen several which have had at least Twenty Scars about them, but chiefly on their Arms, (whereof-some were of the bigness of a Shilling) besides Wounds and Scratches they had. But from whence they received this inhumane way (to wound and tor∣ment themselves) I do not know, except they had it anciently from the Priests of Baal, which used to wound themselves with Knives and Lances (as we read in the 18th. Chapter of the 3d▪ of the Kings) un∣til the Blood followed. These Holy Scars and To∣kens of their Zeal, I could soon see and observe on this Moor, for according to his Order (which is a very great one) he was to wear no Cloths upon his Body neither Winter nor Summer, only a little Scarf to cover his Privy Members withal: Instead of them they put Sheep Skins about them, whereon they lie also at Night, and so they serve them for Cloaths, Bed and Cover. And so they pretend by their exteriour Ap∣parel

and Behaviour, to great Vertue and Patience, as if they were dead to the World; and to a peculiar Holiness, in praying, fasting, watching, &c. whereas they are full of Roguery and Knavery, so that you shall hardly find any like them. With this came also several other Religious Men of several Orders, which were all in several distinct Habits, as they are in our Country; among them was a very strong, well set young Man, of the Order of the Geomaliers as they call it, which are rather Secular than Clergy∣men, they are generally Tschelebys, that is Gentle∣men and rich Persons, which take great delight in travelling in their young Days, under pretence of Ho∣liness, like Pilgrims, at other Peoples Costs, through several Countries and Kingdoms, to see and learn, and to get Experience. This had only a blue Coat on that covered his Body, tied about with a Sash and Shooes of Sheeps Skins, such as the Arabians in the Desarts use to wear. There went along with us Two more; whereof one had a great Ring in each Ear, about the thickness of a Finger, and so heavy that it stretched down his ear-laps to his very Shoulders. These are of the Order called the Calendriers, which lead a sober, and abstemious Life before People, wherefore they se∣parate themselves from the People, and walk about like Hermits into Desarts where-ever they can, to pray there ardently, and to cry out the hours (where∣of they have Five every Day) as the Priests do from the Steeples, wherefore this Man did separate himself as often as he had an Opportunity far from us, that the Beasts could rather see and hear him, than we that were in the Ship. When he had done this, he came to us again, and looked so devout∣ly as if he had been in a Rapture or Ecstasie. The other was a Dervis, whereof I have made mention before, which also kept to a very strict Order, for he prayed devoutly and ardently, chiefly at Night after Sun set, at what time two or three more used to come to him, and among them sometimes some of our Merchants; they did stand together in a circle, and so began to pray (as I heard often) first very lowly,

then by degrees louder, but when they came to the Leila Hillalla, &c. they were so loud, that you might hear them afar of, and then they repeated only these Words very often; and every time they repeated them, they turned their Head from one side to the other, as if they looked upon one another by turns, to shew their great Love one to another, so they repeat these words very often, and every time quicker and quicker, until they abbreviate them at last, and say only, Lahu Huhu. By this pratling or jabbering and moving of their Heads, they became at length so giddy and weary, that the cold Sweat ran down them. But this their Saint did not pronounce the words of their Prayers with the rest, but struck on his Breast with his Fist, upon his Heart, which gave instead thereof so strange a Tune, as if he had been hallow within, much like unto the Noise that a Turky-Cock uses to make when he is very angry, so that it would have frighted any Man, chiefly if he had been alone with him; and he would (with his terrible Face) rather have taken him to be an Appa∣rition than a Man. These above-mentioned Words he repeateth so often, and so long, until he fainteth away, and falls down, and there he lieth as if he were dead. Then the others cover him, let him lie and go their ways. After he hath lain thus a good while as if he had been ravished in his Prayers, or had seen a pecu∣liar Vision, he cometh to himself, riseth and appeareth again. All these Saints, although they practise their Religion after a peculiar manner, which according to their Opinion, is quite surpassing that which is pre∣scribed in their Law, to move the People the sooner (regarding their severity in living, their great Patience and frequent Ecstasies) to believe them, that they un∣der pretence of Piety, may go on in their hoggishness, uncleanness, and robberies (as they do) without any controuling: Yet because their idle Hypocrisie, and great Rogueries do daily appear more plainly, (not without great Damage to the Country) therefore they are no more in so great esteem, nor have so much given them as formerly. Concerning their strange way of Praying, (chiefly that of the Moors) their own

People have often told me, that because such a De∣votee changed his natural Voice given by him God, into an unnatural one, therefore he ought rather to be ac∣counted a Beast than a Man, and consequently much less ought to be esteemed a Divine. Thus much I thought convenient to relate here of their Mendicants that travelled with us, and now I come to my former purpose again.

After we had spent four Days in drying our Mer∣chandices, and in mending our Ships, we did load them again, and so set out the next Friday, being the 3d. of September, about Noon. All that Day we saw nothing but Bushes on both sides of the River, wherein were several wild Beasts, but above all wild Boars, till Night, when we came in sight of a little Village about two or three Miles distant, upon the ascent, on our left Hand, where we landed and stayed all Night. In that place I found nothing but a bastard Camel's Hay, which was like unto the true one, but without any Vir∣tue in it.

The next Day our Navigation proceeded very well, and at Noon we came to a strong Cittadel call'd Galant∣za, which is situated at this side of the River, on a Hill belonging to the King of Arabia, with whom the Tur∣kish Emperor (as I was informed, and could under∣stand, that did not know their Language well) had long and heavy Wars; and could have done him (be∣cause he could not follow him through the Desarts for want of Water and Provisions) no great hurt, if the King's Eldest Son had not put himself into this Castle, believing that he might be secure there from any As∣sault from without, wherein he was mightily mistaken. For after the Sultan did understand that he was there, he was resolved to take it notwithstanding all Difficul∣ties. And therefore he summoned all his Forces toge∣ther in the Year 1570. and did Assault it in three Places at the same time, so long and so often, until at length he took it by Storm, and so he made the King's Son his Prisoner, and carried him to Constantinople, where he had (as they say) his Head cut off the following Year. This Castle (being surrounded with strong Walls,

and having within a very high and large Tower) is still, according to my Apprehension, very strong, but yet it lieth in ruins, and the three open places remain unrepaired. At Night we landed in a small Island, which was not inhabited, and in the middle of the Ri∣ver, we did not question but we were there very well secured from the Arabians, and yet notwithstan∣ding, as soon as we had supp'd and began to go to rest, some of them came creeping along to us, about Mid∣night, rather to visit our Goods than us. But because they durst not venture to go to our Ships, without great danger of being discovered by our Watch, they did visit them that rested on shoar, and had taken some∣thing considerable from them, if they had not been discovered immediately by them, and had retaken from them again, that which they could not so readily carry over the River.

The Fifth Day of September, some Arabians appear∣ed on shoar early in the Morning; by and by we saw more at a great Distance upon the height, and some Squadrons of Horse of Forty or Fifty strong, ride a∣bout, from whence we concluded that the King's Camp was not far off, which proved to be true. For about Noon, after we landed, the King's Youngest Son came riding to us, on a high black Horse, with a Retinue of about Hundred Men, most of which had Bows, and long Pikes made of Reed. He was but young, about Twenty Four or Twenty Five Years old, of a brow∣nish Colour, and had a white Turbant on his Head made of Cotton, one end whereof hung down behind about a Span long, according to their usual Custom. He had on a long Gown made of ordinary Sheeps Skins with the Wooll on them, which hung down to his Ankles, and so had all his Courtiers, which were in their common Dress so like unto one another, that one could not have discerned them, if his had not been edged with some Gold Lists (as we use to edge Chil∣drens Coats in our Country) about the Neck and Sleeves, and had not had long Sleeves, whereon were some Escutcheons to be seen. Because Custom is due to the King of Arabia, by reason of the Euphrates,

therefore this Young Prince came to demand and take it; so he went into the River, and rode first to the Turkish Ship, to see what Goods they carried, but find∣ing nothing but Corn therein he did not stay long there, but came to ours, his Servants that were on purpose ordered for that, helped him soon up into it, and placed him in the middle of it on a Bale, but they themselves went about from one Merchant to a∣nother, to visit their Goods, and did open now and then a Chest or a Bale, and took some out of them more or less, according as they liked them, so that it was a great while before they came about from Mer∣chant to Merchant. In the mean while, they brought also into the Ship a Young Prince, perhaps two Years old, which one carried before him on Horse-back after his Father. He had nothing on but only a Cotton Shirt, and Rings about his Neck, Wrists and Legs, made of fine Arabian Gold. At length his Servants came to me and my Comrades into the Poop of the Ship; but before we began to shew them any of our Goods, they saw my Gun that was in-laid with Ivory, which they took immediately, to shew it to their Master, with a great deal of Admiration, being such a one as they had never seen in their Life before. The King took it presently into his Hands, and was mighty well pleased with it, and said that it was Outlandish-Work made by the Franks (by which Name they call Out∣landish-Men, French, German, Italian, &c. because they know no Divisions or Distinctions of our Country) so we went both to him, and acquainted him that we were lately come from those Countries, with an In∣tention to go into the Indies. After the King under∣stood this, he spoke very kindly to us, and bid his Man to leave off and to search no more our Goods, and enquired after several other things, and at length he told my Comrade that he thought he had seen him before: Which was very true; for when my Com∣rade lived at Halepo, where he had drove the Gold∣smith's Trade for a great while, he and others were sent to the King (who was then at a little distance from Halepo) by the Consul of Venice, to present him in his

Name, with several Presents (whereof some were cost∣ly and rich wrought Cloths) when they came to him, and presented them to him, he took them with a great deal of Kindness, and treated them very honourably, and shewed them several sorts of Sport, as Jumping, Running, &c. that they might see that he had a great many brave and handy Souldiers; and did dispatch them very generously again, and promised them (as my Friend told me) all Kindnesses, chiefly to their Ma∣sters, saying, That if they should have occasion to make use of him against the Turks, he would faithfully assist them, and that he did not doubt at all, if they should agree together, but they might go a great way with him in these Countries; nay, advance further up∣on the Turk in a short time, even to Constantinople it self. After the before-mentioned Discourse, the King went to his Tents, that were pitched on a Plain by a Hill, within two Miles of us, and took some of our Com∣pany along with him, to discourse his Father a∣bout our Concerns. I would willingly have presented the King with my Gun (altho' we had to travel through many Desarts) and perhaps he would have been plea∣sed with it, but durst not do it before the Turkish Souldiers, Mendicants and Jews, for I feared, that they would betray it, and accuse me before the Bashaw and Cadi's, which soon would have made me pu∣nishable, altho' innocent, as they use to do to Stran∣gers; nay, sometimes those of their own Nation; and besides, I did remember, that when the King was en∣camped near Halepo, and some of his Men did daily come into the Town, to buy Provision, Cloaths and other Things, that then it was strictly forbidden to Sell them any Arms, Bows or Pikes, to take along with them into the Desarts. After we had staid for our Friends a great while, they came so late to us, that we were hindred from going any farther that Day, for it began to be late, and so we stay'd there all Night. They told us, that the King, after they had told him that we came from Halepo, would not believe them, but thought rather we came from Saphet (which Town is within a Day's Journey of Sidon, which the Sultan

had taken from him a little while before) that he might have a Pretence to arrest us and our Goods; and that he did so obstinately persist in this Opinion, that they did really fear, he would have sent some of his Men with one of us to Halepo, to know the certainty there∣of, until they plainly demonstrated to him by their Letters from whence they came; whereupon he gave them Liberty to go on in their Journey. But I under∣stood afterwards, that it was only to press something more out of them, as he really did, for they were forced to give him some Knives tip'd with Silver that came from Damascus, and also some Damasks.

On the Sixth of September, we were up early, and passed between great Wildernesses, wherein were a∣bundance of Wild Boars, that appeared sometimes in great Herds: These Wildernesses continued so long, that we saw nothing else the whole Day but Woods, till in the Evening we came to Cala, a Village and Ca∣stle on this side of the River, which is no more but two Days Journey from Halepo, situated in a Plain; from whence you may conjecture how crooked the River is hitherto. This Castle belongeth to a great Bashaw, called John Rolandt, and also the fine House at Halepo, as is before mentioned. He hath very great Revenues and Sixty Sons: Six or Seven of them are Sangiacks, whereof some live at the Sultan's Court. Beyond this Castle on the other side of the River, we lodged all Night in the Wilderness, which continued so far, that we saw nothing all the next Day long, but only here and there a little Cottage of the Moors, which generally are built upon Four Sticks, and co∣vered with Bushes: Within them there are so many Children, that I have often admired at the Number of them. They run in their first Infancy to the River, and learn to swim so well, that they undertake without any fear to swim over the broad River. When we went by, the Moors saluted us very often, if the di∣stance did not hinder them, and that chiefly to learn of us where about their King was in the Country. For they have so great a Respect for their King (al∣tho' they are an Idle and Vagabond People) and una∣nimously

shew him such Obedience, as no other Na∣tion doth to their Superiours; which also you may guess by this, that if any Outlandish Man hath a mind to get safely through the Wilderness, or to see their King, let him but cloath himself in their Habit, and take a Moor along with him, to shew him the way, and to be his Interpreter, they will readily tell him the way to go to him; or when they see that he hath one of their own Nation with him, they let him pass without any Molestation or Examination. So that those that are Slaves on the Confines of Arabia, might easily free themselves without any trouble or danger. Their Wives did also often come to us, and brought us Milk in great flat Dishes, which they shewed us at a distance to sell; wherefore we did land sometimes, and received it, and gave them Biskets for it, for they have great want of Corn, so that this inter∣changing pleased us both. We used to break Biskets into this Milk, and so to eat it for Dinner or Sup∣per, and sometimes if it was too thick (or rather too little of it, that it might go the farther) we used to temper or mix it with Water. They have also some∣times put it into oblong Linen-Sacks, which it did hardly penetrate, and let it hang in the Ship for two or three Days, until it did curdle, and came to be in Curds, and so it used to serve us with Biskets and Onions for Breakfast or for Supper. When we did land and had time to spare, I used to look about me for some strange Plants, and among the rest, I found a peculiar Schoenanthum, which was very like in Fi∣gure unto the true one, but had not its Virtues, and the first kind of Rhannus of Carolus Clusius, with fat Leaves like unto Housleeke. I found also Goats Rue, and a strange sort of Willows, which still are called by the Inhabitants by their old Name Garb. There also were abundance of Tamarisks; they were as big and high as our Cherry or Plum Trees, wherefore these Trees are discerned soon at a distance by their height; they have very tender Leaves, and long purple co∣loured tops, as you see in the second kind of our Ta∣marisks, so that between them and ours, there is no

great Matter of Difference, but only in Bigness, and Fruit, whereof I found none at that time. The Moors feed their Cattle, for the most part, with those Bushes that grow at the River side, for in the Wilderness and Desarts (where the Ground is very sandy, lean and barren) there is but little Grass or tilled Ground, which occasioneth the great Scarcity of Bread among them, so that often they see none in a great while, and are forced to eat their other food, as Fish, Flesh, Cheese and Milk (which they take from Goats, Sheep, Camels, &c.) without Bread; so that these poor People make a shift with a mean Diet, and yet they are strong and in good Health, and live to a good Age. At Night before it was dark, I saw another Fortification, at the other side in Mesopotamia, on a high Hill called Jabar, belonging to the King of Arabia, which is very large, and hath several Towers in the Wall, so that as far as I could see, it was very like to that of Halepo. We stay'd all Night on this side of it, in an Island, where we had been robb'd again, If we had not kept a good Watch, so as to perceive the Thieves, and to let off several Guns: Yet this we did not to hurt, but only to frighten them; for if we should have kill'd or wounded any of them, they would have fetch'd imme∣diately, some (according as they are in strength) it may be, Thousand together, to revenge their Friend, to fall upon us, to beat us, and to plunder us (whereof they are very eager) and to take all we had. The same happened to us the next Day in another uninhabited Island of the River, where we would dress no Vi∣ctuals that Night, that they might not spy us by our Fire, to find us out and to fall upon us. For when we expected to keep our selves thus quiet, and to rest in good Tranquility, they did not miss us, but came to us in a greater Body than before, and that so near, that we could not only hear them, but they began to talk with us. But when we saw that they were in earnest, we rouzed up our selves, and got into Order, and spoke big to them, and bid them to offer no Violence to us, for if they did, they would find greater Resi∣stance than they expected. But when we saw that this

our Exhortation would do no good, we were forced a∣gain to have recourse to our Guns, whereof we had but three, which we let go off, which frightened them in such a manner (for they are not used to them) that they ran away, and left us in quietness. But it is no wonder that the Arabians are so restless, for they are full of Want and Nakedness, have not to fill their Belly, nor to cover their Body withal; besides; they have no∣thing else to do, and are used to idleness from their very Infancy, and then because they hate to Work, they are forced to wander like Vagabonds from one place to another. And (if they will maintain them∣selves and theirs) to seek their livelihood from those that travel through their Country. So several times there came two, three, or four together, swimming through the River, were it never so broad or deep, to our Ship, whereof some were black, and some brown, which came as naked into our Ship as ever they were born into the World, to beg a piece of Bread; to each of them we gave as much as would content them, so they went sometimes for a whole League along with us; and when they had eaten the Bread, and thanked us, they jumped into the River again and swam away. Besides these we saw daily as we went along many more, swim over the River, which com∣monly had some Bucks Skins blown up, whereon they tried to get over the easier (for the River is so broad, that it is not easy to make a Bridge over it, neither did I find any.) They take their Shirts (for besides them they wear no other Cloaths) tie them with their leathern Girdles about their Heads, and therein stick their Daggers (which are pretty broad and bended like unto a Scythe) which hang down by their Tem∣ples.

The Ninth Day our Voyage went on again chearily, and we came pretty near to the Town Racka, (which belongeth to the Turkish Emperour) but it did not continue so long, for before we had Dined and eaten a few Fruit, viz. Cibels, Anguries and Indian Musk-Melons, to refresh our selves in the great Heat, we incurred greater Danger again than that we were in be∣fore,

for our Ship (which was a great deal bigger than either of the other two) did strike upon the Sand so se∣verely, that we could not bring her off again with∣out the assistance of others, (as we had done several times before) nor bring her into the right way again. So we were forced to desire the Arabians our Antago∣nists, which stood and looked upon us, rather rejoicing in our Misfortunes, than pitying us, to assist us, which at length we did obtain, and so they came to help us: But because they had their Daggers, and great Cud∣gels, which they use to wear with them, we durst not trust them, but were forced to leave a small Guard in the Ship, but the rest of us helped them with all our Force and Strength, but we could not stir her, so that they went away twice and left us. At last we concluded, that we had no better way, than to unload our Ships, yet we durst not do it for fear of the Arabians, nor venture our Merchandices; so we resolved to draw her out another way, wherefore we desired the Arabians a third time, to assist us, and if they were in earnest to help us, we begged of them to lay down their Arms, which at length, upon our promising them a good Reward, they did. When they came we took also our Guard to our Assistance, set all hands at work, and with hard Labour we brought it at length into the right Stream again, so we paid the Arabians, and went on, and came that same Night to Racka.

CHAP. III.

Of the City of Racka, and of its Situa∣tion, and also something of the Departure of the King of Arabia, and of his League with the Turkish Emperour, and also of the trouble we had with the Custom-House-Officer or Publican.

RAcka, a Town of Mesopotamia, is situated in the Desarts of Arabia upon the great River Euphra∣tes, between two ascents, so that you cannot see any thing of it before you come near it. There is a Castle by it, which is given to a Sangiack by the Turkish Em∣perour to keep it with 1200 Spahi's. This Town is pitifully Built, and not well Guarded with Walls, it having been built after the Desolation of the Old Town, which was situated on the Height, as one may see still by the Old Wall, and other Arches and Pil∣lars. Among the rest there is yet standing a very ancient high Building, which is still very strong, and looketh very great (although it is much decayed and run to ruin) and such as one shall rarely see, so that one may conjecture, that it hath perhaps been former∣ly the Seat and Habitation of their Kings or Magi∣strates. Between the New and Old City lieth a Ca∣stle, which is also Old and pretty strong, where is kept a Turkish Garrison, it being on the Confines or Limits of Arabia and Persia, &c. to defend them and all the Country from Danger and Incursions. The Old Town is besides this quite demolished, and even with the Ground, so that here is no convenient place where the Turks can exercise themselves in Running, Cudgel-playing, &c. but this, where I have often sate upon the ruined Walls and looked upon them when they were a Playing. To the Desolation of this Town, have very much contributed the Tartars, under their

King Haalono, who took it in the Year of our Lord, 1260, and not long after the Town and Castle of Halepo, with the help of Ayton King of Armenia. Some will have this to be the Town of Rhages, which is also called Edessa, whither the Ancient and Pious Tobias, did send his Son from Nineve, to his Friend Gabel, to fetch the Money from him which he had lent him: But because this lies a Day's Journey further from the River Euphrates, therefore it cannot be the same.

After we had landed there, the Receiver of the Custom came on Horse-back to the shoar, and desired the Master of the Turkish Ship, to deliver his Arms, Lances and Bows, who absolutely denied it, seeing that it never had been a Custom before; whereupon they fell about this into such a hot Dispute, that they began to draw upon one another, and had not we time∣ly put in between them, it would have caused a great Tumult. The reason why this Man behaved himself so strangely, was because we did not go with our Goods to Carahemit (which Town is distant four Days Journey, and situated on the rapid River Tigris) to have laid there upon that River, where he would have received a great deal more Custom, that also be∣longing to him. But the Turk not mattering him, having nothing in but Corn, which he would not carry, he let him alone, and came to us as Strangers, think∣ing to make up his Loss from us, and to frighten us out of it. He staid all Night in the Ship, and lay be∣tween us (fearing that we should hide some Goods from him;) and sometimes he came upon us with big Words, saying, Seeing that it was not allowed to us Out-landish Men to travel in these Parts, therefore he could not but take us to be Spies, that came to discover, rather than for any thing else, wherefore he had rea∣son enough to take our Goods in Arrest, and to send us two as Spies to Constantinople, to make us Slaves to his Master, the Great Sultan. After we had heard this his unreasonable Discourse, and were also sensible of his Intention to cheat us, we were not presently frightned, but drew out our Pass we had from the Bashaw and Cadi of Halepo, and shewed it to him.

He looked it over, and after he understood that he durst not very well act against it, he went away from us with a deal of Indignation, and immediately he be∣gan to quarrel with all the Merchants of the two Ships, and desired of them an unreasonable Sum to pay him as Toll, whereof they complained heavily; but he went on and would accept of no reasonable Condi∣tions, but took away our Rowers from our Ships, to hinder us from going away, to squeeze us the more. But the Merchants although they saw his earnestness, they did not matter it, but sent on the 11th. of Sep∣tember one of them with a Moor to Carahemit, to the Great Bashaw, which was the Son of Mahomet Bassa, to complain to him of these Impositions and Extor∣tions. When the Toll-keeper did understand this, he followed them with his Son immediately. But because he did not find the Bashaw (which was then in ano∣ther place called Giselet, whither our Friend was forced to follow him three Days Journey from thence) he re∣turned again immediately. Although he did not speak with the Bashaw, yet he falsly told us, that it was the Bashaw's Order that we should pay him Ten Ducats per cent. Notwithstanding that, ours did not know any thing, yet they would not trust him, but had carried the best and greatest Part of their Goods out, before he came into the Ships to search, and also some thereof they buried in the Sand by Night, where the Turks and Moors went over by Day Light, and yet they could find none of these hidden Goods. The next morning early the Publi∣can came with his Crue, and searched every thing with a great deal of Care, as if he had a peculiar Com∣mand for it, but did not find any thing near (as you may think) what he expected. When he was thus very busy in exercising his Office, our Friend came in at last, and told us, that the Bashaw was very much displeased, that the Publican did deal so unjustly with us, contrary to the Orders and Law of his Master the Grand Signior, and did keep us so long, and hinder us in our Navigation. Wherefore he had writ to the Sangiack in our behalf, and ordered him on pain of

Death, to take all Care that we might not be detained any longer, but to take the Publican Prisoner, and to send him to Constantinople, to have him tried at the Court kept for that purpose every 15th. Day, and that he feared very much, that he would pay for this his Misdemeanour with his Life.

In the mean time we were thus detained Pri∣soners on the Rivers of Babylon, expecting with a deal of Patience the time of our Deliverance, it happened, that the King of Arabia broke up with his Retinue from here-about on the 21st. Day of September, and travelled towards the South in great Numbers, to find better Pastures for his Beasts, as Horses, Asses, and Camels, that they might the better subsist; for in these Places there are not so many Villages, Towns and Market-Towns, where they might have their conti∣nual abode. Neither do they love Farming nor Tra∣ding, but are contented, if they have a great Stock of Cattle, and good store of Grass for them, that they may keep them. So if they come to a Rivolet, where a little Herbage or Grass groweth, they immediately erect their Tents there, to stay there till want forceth them to remove, and to look out for another Place. When they break up, they take along with them Man, Maid, Beasts and all their whole Substance, as I did see them remove at this very time, and come towards this Town in great Numbers, so that the Turks kept their Gates shut up for four Days, until they were all pass'd by. On Horse-back they are armed with Darts and Bows, &c. and also if they ride on Camels, where∣of they have a very great Number, chiefly when the King is moving from one place to another, as some of them did relate to me, where generally are imployed 150000. I my own self have once seen at one time to∣gether about the number of 3 or 4000 Camels. They are strong and hardy Creatures, fit to carry heavy Burthens, and also to subsist without Drinking in the greatest Heats for Three Days together. They stale out between their hind Legs, so that those that go in Caravans behind them must have a great Care, that they be not hit by them, and so become all bedaubed.

Their Horses are very Noble, Neat, and fit for business; they seldom feed them more than once a Day, altho' they ride them very hard all Day long through the Wildernesses. They commonly cut off all the Hair from their Mains and Tail, so that their Tails remain very naked, and look something like the Tail of a Lion. They put their Wives on little Asses, and also upon high Camels with their Children, three or four of them to∣gether in Boxes, as it is the fashion in these Countries. They are of a brown Colour like unto our Gypsies, and almost the fourth Part of them black, which dif∣ference of Colour proceedeth from that in travelling up and down, to places where Blacks are. They some∣times leave their own there, and take Blacks in the room of them. The King of Arabia is always en∣camped in the Fields, and never cometh into a place that is shut up or enclosed; and this the less now, after the Mischance of losing his Son that retired into one, happened; so he goeth from place to place like unto the Tartars, so that often it is not known where he is. In the Summer time he goeth further to the North, and in the Winter to the South, to avoid both the Heat and Cold, and to have better Subsistance and Provision for himself, his Men and Cattle. So it hath happened several times, that the Arabians in their march have come too near to the Turks Dominions, and the Turks again to his, from whence arose be∣tween these two great Princes such Differences, that they are come to great and bloody Wars. And yet for all this (as I am credibly informed) they have now both made a peculiar League and Contract be∣tween them, wherein it is agreed that if the Grand Turk should go to a War with his Neighbours, then the Arabian King will Assist and Defend him, where∣fore the Grand Signior writes to him as his Cousin and good Friend, and is to pay him the sum of 60000 Ducats yearly as his certain Salary or retaining Fee. And besides all this, the Sultan sends to the New King of Arabia after the Decease of the Old one, a Standard with his Coat of Arms in it, which toge∣ther with other Presents he sends him, with usual

Ceremonies, to congratulate him on his happy coming to the Throne, and to renew and confirm their Allian∣ces. Their Religion doth contribute not a small matter to this, which (together with all their Ceremonies, and all other Points) is the same almost they profess in both Nations: And they take as many Wives as the Turks do, neither do they extol or magnifie one before the other, because they come from better Parents, being they buy them all from them. And therefore none of them is excused, because she cometh from a greater Ex∣traction, from doing the Family-business, nor hath a poor one more put upon her, because she came from mean Extraction. So one of the King of Arabia's Wives is a Daughter of a Man that keepeth a Sawing-Mill at Racka, which by him (although of a mean Extraction) is as much respected as any of the rest. Her Father and Brothers are very good People; they came very often to us, and shewed great Compassion, for that we were so abused by the Publican. His Milk is not drawn by Horses as ours are, nor by Water, (for they know nothing of that) but two of them cut the Wood with great hand-labour. During our staying there, a Young Arabian Gentleman, nearly related to the King of Arabia, came very often to us to the Water-side, who was always accompanied with Twenty Servants with Bows and Darts; he had a delicate white Tur∣bant on, and a long Violet, coloured Caban made of Wooll, but his Servants went pretty bare, for some of them wore black Caps and long Indigo coloured Shirts with wide Sleeves, which they girt up with broad Lea∣thern Girdles, wherein stuck bended Daggers or Bago∣nets, as it is their usual Custom. It once happened, that some of us being upon the High-Town Walls to∣gether, from whence we had a pleasant Prospect down into the Valley to the great River Euphrates, this same Gentleman came to us again, and seated himself with his Retinue over against us, and presented us with some dried Cicer Pease (whereof I have made mention before) and some Cibebs mixt together, which we thankfully received; and to shew our thankfulness, we presented him again with some Almonds, Figs, Nuts,

and some very good Sweet-meats we had brought with us from Halepo, which he also received very kindly. So we all began to eat each of us part of his Present, and drunk with it some Water of the Euphrates. After we had eat them all, and we thought the time to be long, he beckon'd to one of his Musicians, and bid him to divert us with his Instrument, which he pulled out presently (which about the Neck looked very like unto a Cittern) and we expected to hear some rarity, but when I looked upon it, and saw it had but one String that was as big as a Cord of their Bows, he began to play some of their Tunes, but with what Art and Dex∣terity you may easily fansie. He did this for almost two Hours, and according to his Opinion very harmoni∣ously, but we thought the time so long, that we were very glad when he had done.

About the River I found that sort of Acacia that beareth roundish and brown-coloured Pods, called Schock and Schamuth by the Arabians: Some Thorns called Algul, whereon the Manna falleth, chiefly in the County of Corascen, as Avicen tells us. Chamesy∣ces, some strange kinds of Mosses, which are very much differing in bigness: Among the rest I saw the low prickly Herb, by some esteemed to be the Tragun of Dioscorides. Below, close to the River, I found the Herba Sacra of Dioscorides, which the Learned Carolus Clusius hath accurately described in his Second Book and the 45th. Chapter of his History of Out-landish Plants; and just by these, more strange ones, chiefly a delicate one growing plentifully there in the Sand, which had from Five to Eight tender Stalks, which spread themselves into others, that were very full of Joints, so that it crept rather on the Ground than grew up; by each of them stood three or four roundish Marjoram or Origa∣num Leaves together, and above between them some Star like white Flowers, with six pointed Leaves like unto our Ornithogalum, each of them on a peculiar Foot∣stalk, the Seeds thereof I have not seen, but the Roots are small and fibrous, which together with their small bitterness, have a pretty exsiccating quality; and so in this respect are very like unto the Polycnemon of

Dioscorides, but whether it be the same or no, I leave the learned to decide. Besides those before as we came down the River, I saw a great many large Tamarisk Trees, and abundance of a certain kind of Agnus Castus, al∣most like unto the other, only a great deal less, and it had no more but three strong claver Leaves; but above all the Galega, called Goats-Rue in our Language, which in these Parts groweth very high, and in so great plenty, that on the River side I could see nothing but this for several Miles together.

CHAP. IV.

Of the Inhabitants of the Mountains, and the great Wilderness we came through to Deer: Of their ancient Origination, and miserable and laborious Livelihood.

UPon this good and severe Command of the Bashaw, Son of Mahomet Bashaw, we were acquitted of our long Arrest, and went away about Noon on the 27th. of September; we went again from thence through such great Desarts, that for some Days we saw nothing worth relating, but here and there little Huts made of some erected Boughs, and covered with some Bushes, wherein the Moors with their Families live, to secure themselves from the great Heat, Rain and Dews that are in these Parts most violent, so that I admired how these miserable People could maintain themselves and so many Children in these dry and sandy Places where nothing was to be had. Where∣fore these poor People are very naked, and so hungry that many of them if they saw us afar off, would fling themselves into the great River, and swim to us to fetch a piece of Bread. And when we flung at

them whole handfulls, they would snap at it just like hungry Fish or Ducks, and eat it: Others did gather it and put it into the Crown which they make neatly of their Sheets on the top of their Heads, and so swim away with it. After these sandy Desarts had continued a great while, we came at length out of them between high, rough and bare Hills, which were so barren, that there was to be seen neither Plough-Lands nor Meadows, neither House nor Stick, neither High-way nor Foot-path, wherefore those People that live there, have no Houses, but Caves and Tents, as they have in the great Desarts, where because of the great Heat and Driness, the Soil is so barren, that they cannot subsist in a place for any considerable time, nor have Villages or certain Habitations: Wherefore they wander up and down, fall upon the Caravans and plunder them, and make what shift they can to get a livelihood. These Mountains, as I am informed, reach to the River Jor∣dan, the Dead and the Red-Seas, &c. wherein are situated Mount Sinai, Horeb, &c. and the Town Petra, which by the Prophet Isaiah is called Petra of the De∣sarts. The Arabians that live in these Desarts, and round about them, are extraordinary Marks-men for Bows and Arrows, and to fling Darts which are made of Canes: They are a very numerous People, and go out in great Parties every where almost: they are a very ancient Nation, and come from the Sons of Ishmael, but chiefly from his Eldest Son Nebajoth, and were an∣ciently called the War-like Nabathees, and their Coun∣try, the Land or Province of the Nabathees, which Josephus testifieth in Book I. Chap. 21. where he says, that the Twelve Sons of Ishmael, which he had by an Egyptian Wife, (his Mother Agar, from whom they were called Agarens, as you may see in the first of the Chronicles and the sixth Verse, being also of the same Country▪) were possessed of all the Country between the Euphrates, and the Red-Seas, and called it the Province of the Nabathees. The Midianites that bought Joseph of his Brethren, and carried him into E∣gypt, may also be reckoned among these. This same Country is also chiefly by Pliny (because thereabout

are no other Habitations, but Tents, wherein the In∣habitants live) called Scenitis. From this we may con∣clude that the Prophet Isaiah in his 60th. Chapter, and David in his 120th. Psalm did speak of them, when chiefly the latter maketh mention of the Tents of Kedar, whereby he understands a Country that is inha∣bited by such a Nation as liveth in Tents, and is de∣rived from Kedar the Son of Ishmael, whom his Fa∣ther Abraham as a strange Child, born by his Maid Agar, did thrust out together with his Mother into the Desarts; his words are these, Wo is me, that I sojourn in Mesheck, that I dwell in the Tents of Kedar. In our times these and other Nations are called the Sa∣racens, which have very much encreased under Maho∣met (which by his Mother was an Ishmaelite) and did spread very much; and so they were in David's time a very strong Nation, wherefore he prayeth very earnest∣ly (in his 83 Psalm) that God would punish and slay and disperse them, as Enemies of his Holy Church. But that I may come to our former Intention again, here the Arabians asked us very often again, where their King was at that time, so that our Master had bu∣siness enough to answer them; whereby you may ob∣serve what great Respect and Love they have for their King. But that they might not altogether look upon us as Outlandish Men, nor presently discern us to be Strangers, we did sometimes when there was occasion for it, change our Turbants, and let one end thereof according to their Fashion hang down, which they do to make themselves a Shade against the Heat, that is very cruel in these Countries. But yet if any body, be he who he will, doth enquire after their King, and wants to come before him, to present him with a Suit of Cloaths, &c. or to desire a Pass from him, or if one should go about to hire one of them, to shew him the way to a certain place, or through their Country, (which he may do for a very small price,) he would soon find one or other that would be ready to do it; but among the Turks there is no such Obedi∣ence; for if you should desire any thing of them to do, in the Name of their Sultan, they are not willing

to do it, except it would redound to their great Pro∣fit. Wherefore a Turkish Guide to conduct you would cost you a great deal more than one of them. Be∣sides, they also remember their Master daily, and hard∣ly speak of any thing but of him, his great riches, &c. but with such Pride and Greatness, chiefly when they speak of his powerfulness, and enlarging of his King∣dom, as if some share of these were belonging to them, and that they must be respected for it. In this Navi∣gation through the great Desarts, we two did not spend much, because the Towns were at so great a distance from one another that we could not reach them, to provide our selves daily with Necessaries (as we do in our Country on the Danube and Rhine) or Lodgings. We were necessitated to be contented with some slight Food or other, and make a shift with Curds, Cheese, Fruits, Honey, &c. and to take any of these with some Bread for a good Entertainment. The Honey in these Parts is very good, and of a whitish colour, whereof they take in their Caravans and Navigations, great Leathern Bottles-full along with them; this they bring you in small Cups, and put a little Butter to it, and so you eat it with Biskets. By this Dish I often remembred St. John the Baptist, the fore-runner of our Lord, how he also did eat Honey in the De∣sarts, together with other Food. Besides this when we had a mind to Feast our selves, some ran, as soon as our Master had landed at Night, to fetch some Wood, and others in the mean time made a hole in the Ground on the Shoar, in the nature of a Furnace, to boil our Meat. So every Company dressed accor∣dingly what they had a mind to, or what they had laid up in Store; some boil'd Rice, others ground Corn, &c. And when they had a mind to eat New Bread instead, or for want of Biskets, they made a paste of Flower and Water, and wrought it into broad Cakes about the thickness of a Finger, and put them in a hot place on the ground, heated on purpose by Fire, and covered it with Ashes and Coals, and turn∣ed it several times until it was enough. These Cakes were very savory and good to eat. Some of the

Arabians have in their Tents, Stones or Copper-Plates made on purpose to bake them. On the 4th. Day, being the last of September, about Noon, we came to the end of the Mountains, before which without, on this side, lieth a very strong Citadel, on a high Hill, built three square, by the Inhabitants called Seleby, whereof two Points go downwards towards the River, and the third upward a great way on the Mountain, so that in its situation it is very like unto Baden in Switzer∣land. Although it is demolished, yet it is still very strong in its Walls, that are to be seen at the top and on the sides, chiefly towards the Hills, and the River side, to hinder the Passage both by Water and Land. There are also still standing some Watch-houses with∣out, as you come towards it near the Mountains, which may hold three or four Souldiers: yet it lieth still to this Day in ruins, and so desolated, that nothing but Birds and Beasts inhabit it; whereof a great many ap∣peared on the Rivers side, as Herns, Ducks, that were very large and of a delicate Colour, and others, a∣mong which were some of a white Colour, called Pe∣licans by Aristotle, and Onocrotali by others, which are as big as Swans; the Prophet Zephaniah maketh also mention of them in his second Chapter, when he prognosticated the punishment that was to come to the Ninevites, Assyrians and Moors; there also ap∣peared some quite black, with long Necks; whereof I did see abundance in my Travels into the Land of Pro∣mise, and especially near Acon, among the Rocks and Crags of the Sea; as far as I could discern them at a distance, they seemed to be a kind of a * 1.1 Sea-Eagle, that feed more upon Fish than any thing else. Six Miles lower, and at the other side of the Euphrates, lieth still ano∣ther Fortification which is called Su∣bian Seleby, that is lower Seleby, on a very high Bank, and seeing that we sailed very near it, I could not well discover it. Of these two which way they were besieged and taken; and also of the way of Government, or ruling of the Kings of A∣rabia,

&c. I should have been very glad to have been a little better informed, but the Language wherewith I was not well acquainted, did hinder me. And sup∣pose I should have understood it very well, or enough to have made an enquiry after those Particulars, yet I could not have done it without great Danger, to have been taken for a Spy; for they soon suspect Outlandish Men on every little occasion, which those that Trade in these Parts have often experienced not without great Loss and Danger. Beyond the Mountains in the low Country we saw more tilled Grounds, and Habitations of the Arabians than we had done before, wherefore our Master landed sooner than he used to do, near a Village, to take in Provision for our further Journey, where the People brought Flesh and Indian Melons to us to sell. Here it happened, that about Midnight, one of the Turkish Souldiers went out to ease himself to the River side; and when he was busy about it, a Moor came creeping along to him, and thrust him into the River before he was aware of it, and run a∣way. The Turk finding himself in the Euphrates, fell a crying out for help; I hearing him, standing Sentinel that Night, did not fail him, but made what haste I could, with my Scymeter in my Hand, followed his Voice, and came to the place, although it was very dark, drew him out, and brought him into the Ship, which was so kindly taken by the rest of the Turks, that I got mightily into their Favour, and received many Kindnesses of them all the way until we came to Bagdet, the Garrison which they went to rein∣force.

The first of October when our Voyage went on a∣gain, there came early in the Morning a Post of six Arabians on Horse back to the River side, to enquire of us whither their King was gone, or where we thought they might find him, they had received Let∣ters for him from the Sultan, wherefore they must follow him until they found him. The Master of our Ship told 'em (and so he did to every body that asked him) that we had seen him in Mesopotamia, which Province he called Amanachar, that he was broken up with his Men to

go back into Arabia, where they would find him. After this relation they departed, and we went on our way, and soon saw below a Town to our right at a distance, called Seccard, very well situated on an ascent, belong∣ing to the King of Arabia, wherefore some of the Turks said, that none but Haramiquiber, that is great Thieves lived in it, which they do out of spite to all them, that are subject to any other Master, than their Sultan. This Town we passed by, and went directly towards Deer another Town, whence we were then three Leagues distant, yet they do not accompt their distances by Leagues, for they know little or nothing of it, but rather reckon by Days Journeys, for their Towns are so situated, at such a distance, that they have sometimes to go through divers Wildernesses, several Days, more or less, before they arrive there. Before we came thither, one of the Ships in our Com∣pany did go too much toward one side, toward a Branch of the River, that runs by the Town, (for it divideth it self into several Branches) where it got in∣to the Mud and stuck. Our Master seeing this, land∣ed immediately, and did send his Men to help them. So I got time to look after the strange Plants, and found there about the River many great Tamarisk-Trees, and also a peculiar sort of Willow, which the In∣bitants still call by its ancient Arabian Name Garb. These Trees do not grow high, but spread very much; the Twigs thereof are stronger and not so tough, as to make Bands or Withs as ours will; the Bark is of a pale yellow Colour, and so are the Leaves, which are long and about two Fingers broad, and at the edges round about crenated, so that they are very much dif∣fering from the rest of this kind. I found them to be of a pretty drying and astringent quality. Of their Flowers and Fruit (whereof Avicen maketh mention in his 126 and 686 Chap.) I can say nothing, because I saw none. Hereabout the Turk (that would not stay until we were cleared, but went away before us) did suffer Shipwrack, and so lost a great deal of his Corn, that he intended to carry to Bagdet (called Baldac) to sell it in the great Scarcity, which was oc∣casioned

for want of Rain, for there fell none in the space of two Years and a half. And yet, as they say, if it raineth but twice or thrice a Year, they have enough to supply themselves. After our Men had wrought longer than an hour together with theirs, until they had emptied the Ships, they came to us again to go that Night to Deer. But there being several Rocks before it, which were very dangerous to pass, some of their Pilots, that understood the depths, came out to meet and did help us, so that we got safe there. The Town of Deer, which is not very big, and belongs to the Sultan, is situated on this side of the River, on an ascent, and is pretty well built with Houses (where∣on stood great Numbers of People when we went in∣to it, to see us) but as for the Walls and Ditches, they are but very slight. At our first arrival, we thought we should soon get clear for the Custom with the Armin, and so Ship off again, but he was not in Town, so that we were forced to stay three Days for his coming. In the mean time we got acquaintance with the Inhabitants, which were handsome, lusty and well-set, and white, and more mannerly than the rest; they visited us frequently, and spoke kindly to us, so that we found a vast Difference between those and the former. The Armin also (who was no less civil) we presented at his return, with a great dish fill'd up with Cibebs, and several sorts of Confectures, and laid round about with Soap balls (as is the Fashion in these Countries) but to them that were with him and of his Family, we gave some Sheets of white Paper, which they willingly received, and were so well pleased with it, that some of them (as the Children do in our Country when we give them something that is strange or pleasing to them) smiled at it as often as they looked on it. The Country there about is pretty fer∣tile and plentiful of Corn, Indian Millet, Cotton, &c. and they have also between the Rivers very good Gar∣dens for the Kitchin, with all sorts of Plants and Fruits in them, viz. Colliflowers, Citruls, Pumpions, Cucum∣bers, Anguriens, or Water-Melons, which they call Bathiecae, whereof they have so many, that you may

buy forty great ones for one Asper (whereof three make a Medin) much about the value of our Penny. There were also some Date Trees, Limon and Citron, and other Trees, which I could not distinguish at a distance.

CHAP. V.

Of our Voyage to the Famous Town Ana, in which we passed again through great sandy Wildernesses; for the performance whereof we must provide our selves with Victuals, and be very careful in our Navigation: Some relation of the Inhabitants, of their Cloaths, and other things we did observe and see by the way, and what else did happen un∣to us.

AFter we had paid the Custom to the Armin (who was a great deal more civil than he at Racka) and provided our selves with all Necessaries, we did but half load our Ships, to draw them out of the branch again, into the River, and then we carried the rest to them by Boats and small Ships, for the Water was very low and full of Mud, so that we went from thence on the 4th. Day of October in the Evening, and so staid all Night, a little below Deer.

The next Morning our Navigation proceeded very well till Noon, when we came to a very broad and shallow place of the River, that our Master did not know which way to get through. When he was thus troubled and considering, there appeared on the Height, on the Shoar, some Arabians, and shewed us the Course we must take, but we durst not trust them, for we had

heard before, that they had sunk some great Stones there, and that a Month before they had perswaded a Ship to go that way, which did not discover their Cheat, until their Ship after several hard knocks did split in pieces and sink. The same they would have served others, which, although they did not fol∣low their Counsel, yet they came into such Danger, that they could not deliver themselves out of it in a whole Days-time. We (Thanks be to God) got sooner through than in an Hour, after we had drawn our Ship a little back into the deep Stream, to the great Admiration of the Arabians: But the other, in our Company, did not stick much longer, yet we had more to do to get her off, because she was shorter, with a hollow Bottom, wherefore she was sooner turned, but could not be got out so well as ours which was flat-bottom'd. In the Evening very early we saw at a great distance on the other side in Mesopotamia, a Castle in the Plain, called Sere, which the Arabians (as they say) have many Years ago demolished, which the River Chabu, which is pretty large, runs by, which beginneth not much above the Castle (which one may guess by its Fresh-Water like unto Fountain-Water) and runs a little way below into the River Euphrates. From thence we thought to have reached Errachaby, a Town belonging to the King of Arabia, but being hindred in our Navigation, as is above-mentioned, we landed a little above this before the Night befell us, and went the next Morning early to the before-mentio∣ned Town, which was pretty large, and lay about half a League from the River in a very fruitful Country, where we stayed until the next Day, to sell some Goods there. Wherefore two of ours went into the Town to call out some of their Merchants to trade with them.

After they had spent that whole Day with them, we went off the next Morning early toward Schara, a little Village which lieth on the Right-Hand half a League distant from the River, belonging to the King of Arabia, where we landed to pay the usual Custom. All about the Sides and the River I saw a great many Bushes and Trees. I would fain have been at them

to discern what they were, that I might have viewed them exactly, but I was forced to stay in the Ship and so I missed them. From Schara our Navigation went on for several Days very well, but chiefly through sandy Desarts which were as large as any we had be∣fore passed; for they extended sometimes so far, that we could not see the end of them; and they were so dry, that you could see neither Plough-land nor Mea∣dow, Tree nor Bush, Leaf nor Grass, nor Path to go in; wherefore these may very well be called De∣sarts, which are also called the sandy Seas. First you must expect there great Storms, as well as in the Seas, which cause Waves in the Sand as well as at Sea; then those that go in great Caravans through them, must have their Leader or Pilot (by them called Caliphi) as well as those at Sea, which knows how to direct their way by the Compass, as Pilots do on Ship-board. Then they provide themselves (because the way is very long through them) with Victuals for a long time, as well as those that go by Sea, wherefore they load generally the third Part of their Camels with Provisions, chief∣ly with Water, to refresh themselves, and their Beasts, in the great heat of the Sun, for throughout all the Desarts there is never a Spring to be found, except one should light by chance on a Cistern, which yet are also generally dry, for nothing but the Rain filleth them. The Turkish Emperours have ordered 30000 of these Cisterns to be dug in the Ground in these Desarts (as I was informed when I was at Aleppo) and to be provided with Water, that their Armies when they marched from place to place in those times when they had War with the Kings of Persia or Arabia, &c. might not want for Water, and if one should be empty they might perhaps find some in the others. In these Wildernesses I saw nothing worth speaking of, but on the 9th. of October, some ancient Turrets that stood upon the high Banks on a Point, called Eusy, where, as some say, hath been formerly a Famous Town. There∣about the River taketh so large a Circumference, that we went longer than half a Day, before we could pass it. By the same River below us, we saw on the other

Side of it several Arabians on Horse-back: And no∣thing else remarkable, but as I have told you before, some small Hutts of the Moors, who came to see us often, but chiefly at Night-time, to pilfer something, which they are used to from their Infancy. Wherefore it be∣hoved us to have great Care, and to keep a good Watch, as I did find it the same Night: For when it was come to my Turn to stand Sentinel again, which I commonly did in the hindermost part of the Ship on high, that I might espy the Thieves the sooner if any should come, I laid down by me a good Cud∣gel (as we all used to do every time) so I lay down and wrap'd my self up in a Frize Coat with hanging Sleeves to it, to keep my self from the Frost and Dew, which are very frequent and violent there. After long watch∣ing, I began to be drowsy and fell asleep, a Thief came through the Water to the Ship, where I was laid down very silently, and took hold of one of my Sleeves that hung down, in hopes to draw out the Coat gently, not knowing that I was in it: So I was sensible that Some∣body was there that would steal the Coat, and got up, and seeing the Head of the Rogue, I took hold of my long Cudgel, to have a Blow at him; but he was too nimble for me, swam back and ran away: The rest that lay by me were awakened at this, and did per∣ceive that I had seen Some-body, but did not know the Particulars, so they were very glad that I had frightned away the Thief, and gave me Thanks for my great Care and diligent watching. As the Moors by Night follow their Robbery, so they came by Day∣light often with their Wives to trade with us. Where∣fore our Master sometimes to please some Merchants, did sooner land, who took all sorts of Goods out with them; as Soap-balls, Beads of Chrystal, and yellow Agates, Glass-Rings of several Colours, which they wear on their Hands and Feet; and several other Toys made of Red, Yellow, Green and Blew Glass; and set in Tin Brass or Lead, high Shooes, which are tied with Leathern Straps at the Top, &c. for these Goods they trucked with the Moors for Sheep's Skins, Buck-skins, Cheese-Curds, and several other Things, and sometimes for

Money. These Moors do not differ much in their Form from our Gypsies, only that these are a good deal Browner. They are very nimble in their Actions, but they do not much care to work; they rather spend their time in idle Discourses, or begin to quarrel with one another, with loud and big Words, and a great Clamour, but seldom are so much in earnest as to come to Blows. Their Heads are shaved saving only the Crown, where they let generally a long Lock grow, like unto the Turks, that hangeth down be∣hind. As to their Cloathing they wore Coats, made of Course Stuff, whole before, and without Sleeves; they are pretty long before, and reach to their Knees, such an one I wore on my Journey, striped with White and Black; underneath they have long Shirts, which are cut out about the Necks, and reach down to their Ankles, they are commonly Blew, and have wide Sleeves, which they let fly about, chiefly in their walk∣ing, when they fling their Arms about to shew their Pride. These Shirts they gird up with broad Leathern Girdles so high, that you cannot see the Girdle, but only their bended Dagger that sticks or hangs in them, as we wear our Swords. The Archers put sometimes one of their Arms out of their Shirts, and so leave their Breast bare at the same time, that they may shoot and fight the freer without being hindred; those that are not able to buy Shooes, take instead of them Necks of undressed Skins, and put them about their Feet with the Hair outwards, and so tye or lace them up. The Men wear no Breeches, but the Women do, and they come down to their Ankles: Their Faces are not veiled, as the Turkish Womens, but else they cover themselves with broad Scarfs, which more incline to Blew than to White, and let them (chiefly those that wear nar∣row ones) hang behind in a great knot. When they have a mind to be fine, they put on their precious things (as are Marbles, Amber Beads, Glasses of several Colours, &c.) fixed to Laces and hang them down their Tem∣ples, which come down about a Span long, and fly a∣bout from Face to Neck, so that in bending or moving their Head they often hurt their Face, and do not a

little hinder them in their Actions. Those that are of greater Substance, and have a mind to be richer and finer in their Dress, wear Silver and Gold-Rings in one of their Nostrils (as some do in one of their Ears in our Country) wherein are set Garnets, Turquois, Rubies and Pearls, &c. They also wear Rings about their Legs and Hands, and sometimes a good many together, which in their stepping and working, slip up and down about their Hands and Feet, and so make a great noise. So much I thought convenient to relate of the Inhabitants of these Countries and Desarts, as I have seen and found it.

After we had passed through the great Desarts, and began to come prety near unto Ana, our Master land∣ed early in the Evening in a very pleasant Place which was about a League and a half on this Side of the Town, where we stayed all Night: For the River is very dangerous to navigate because of its swift Cur∣rent, and some Rocks that lie between the Mountains▪ This Place was so pleasant by Reason of its fruitful Trees, viz. Olive-Trees, Orange, Citron, Limon, Pomgranate, and chiefly Date-Trees, that the like I had not seen before in my Travels, and hard by it was a very thick Wood of Date-Trees, whereinto I went with some of our Company, and found so great a Quantity of Fruit that they did not esteem them at all, and a∣mong them we found two new Sorts different from them that use to be brought to us in our Countries, viz. quite Red, and Yellow ones, by Serapio called Hayron, in his 69th Chapter; which although something less than ours, yet are very good, and of a delicate Taste.

The next Morning we recommended the Ship to the Master, and walked (the Ship being pretty well laden) to the Town. By the way we found concer∣ning Fruitfulness so great a Difference, that we could really say, we were come from the barren and deso∣lated Arabia (which hitherto had continued from Dir, nay very near from Aleppo) into the well cultivated and fruitful one. For just in the very Entrance there appeared Fields sown with Cotton, which was as tender and woolly as one could any where find: Then delicate

Fields of Corn which grew very high, and was full ripe, and fit to be cut down: Then Trees that stood round about, full of Fruit, so that we had a very pleasant Walk to the Town. In this way I saw no strange Plants at all, onely in the Corn the Moluchi of the Arabians, whereof I have made mention before, which is esteemed to be the Corchorum Plinii; and also another, which because of its Height is easily seen; this is very like unto the Sesamum, onely that the Stalk is longer and fatter, the Leaves are rougher, and the uppermost ones are cut into three different ones, which is not to be seen in the uppermost Leaves of the Sesamum, the Leaves whereof are more like unto Willow-Leaves both in Length and Colour: Between the Leaves that stand singly about the Stalk one above the other, sprout out stately Flowers, which are Yellow without, and intermixt with Red Veins, and of a purple brown Colour within, and have a long Style or Pointel in the middle thereof; when these are fall'n off, there grow long Pods out of them, about a Finger long and thick, which are hairy without, pointed towards the Top, and have Five Distinctions within, wherein the seeds are con∣tained (which are very like unto the sort of Malva that is called Abutilon) and are placed in good Order one above the other. I did very much enquire after this plant, but they know no other Name for it, but Lubie Endigi, that is Indian Kidney-Beans: But according to my Knowledge, I rather take it to be the Trio∣num, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention in several Places.

The Town Ana is by the Euphrates divided into Two Parts, or rather into Two Towns, whereof the One is not very big, and subject to the Turk, and is very well guarded with old Walls, and so surrounded by the River, that you cannot go into it but by Boats, but the other that lieth on this Side, belongeth to the King of Arabia, is very great, and very ill-provided with Walls and Ditches, so that you may go in and out by Night, as in all other Towns belonging to him. This, and also the whole Province, is called Gimel, and

is fifteen Days Journey distant from Aleppo, and goeth down a great way the River, so that we had a good Hour to go, before we came to the House of our Ma∣ster, which was near the Harbour, where our Ship did lie. The Houses are built with Brick and Stone Walls, and very well done; and we could hardly see one on either side but what had a Garden to it, planted with Dates, Limon, Citron, and Pomgranate Trees, with de∣licate Fruit in it. At the other side on the left in Me∣sopotamia, I saw nothing but some Summer-houses standing about the Hills. By the way before we came to Ana, I observed very well, that some of our Com∣pany (to whom I was of an Outlandish Man recom∣mended) left me, and began to contrive with the Ma∣ster, who was born in that Town, to accuse me by a second Hand, that they might not be seen in it, as a Spy, before the Magistrates, pretending that I observed all Towns and Places accurately, and had a mind to betray them at my Opportunity, which they chiefly did to frighten me, and so to get the sooner some good Booty out of me. In Order whereunto, some of them went to the Sub-Bashaw, and obtained presently of him to send one of his Servants with them, which came to me in the long Street, having some Iron Chains and Fetters in his Hands, which he let hang down upon the Ground, and led me along; so that I presently under∣stood that they had an ill Intention against me, which they intended to execute. So I went along with him, to see what they would do with me; when they came to the Harbour, they gave me leave to go into the Ship, and to stay there until I heard more of them. So they soon aggreed together, and told me, chiefly one of them that was on Horse-back in a long Furr'd Coat, that if I would be at Liberty, I must pay to the Sub-Bashaw 500 Ducats. When I was considering these things, and saw my self also left quite alone, and their Demands so extraordinary unreasonable, and found my self in this great Necessity and Danger, it came into my mind, that there was another Magistrate in the other Town Ana, at the other side of the River, which was a Turkish one, to whom I would make my

Complaint of their unjust and unreasonable Impo∣sition, to see whether I might not find help and as∣sistance of them, wherefore I provided my self with my Pass, and fitted my self so in Cloaths that I might be able to swim, so that if they should Assault me to take hold of me, I might soon make my escape over the River without any opposition or hindering. At length, when they expected my Answer, and the Mo∣ney, I told them my Intention plainly and clearly, which put them into greater Fright and Fear, than they had put me in before. Wherefore they gave over their unjust Demands, and desired of the 500 Ducats, no more but a single one, which they were forc'd to give to the Servant of the Sub-Bashaw, for the Pains he had taken.

CHAP. VI.

Which way we travelled from Ana further to Old Babylon, by some ancient Towns called Hadidt, Juppe, Idt, and saw more pleasant, fruitful and well cultivated Fields on each side than before.

AFter the designed Storm, that should have be∣fallen me was over, and I by the Power of the Almighty God delivered, as it hath pleased him to do with a great many more, (which would be too long to relate all here) we immediately departed from thence on the 15th. of October. A little below it we found a fruitful and well cultivated Country; and some fine Houses standing here and there, so near to∣gether, that before we passed one, we could see ano∣ther, which had also their Orchards and Kitchin-Gardens, and round about them fine Woods of Date-Trees,

and many others, which I could not discern be∣cause it was too far off; so that we found a great Al∣teration, and our Wilderness (wherein, chiefly at a Distance from the River, we hardly saw a Tree in a whole day) changed at the lower end of the Town in∣to a fertile Soil: Wherefore our Voyage was very pleasant to us, for we had also less danger to fear from the Arabians. But our Master was very much troubled, because the River was often stop'd up at the Sides with great Stones that made the River swell, for there was a great Number of large and high Water-Engines or Wheels, therefore these Stones were laid to lead the Stream to them, to make them work, for it often happen'd that Two of them stood close together, which took up so much of the River, that we had hardly room to pass by them in the middle of the Stream, wherefore he was forced to have great Care, to find the right way where he might pass without Danger. The Reason why these Water-Wheels are so much in Use is, because this River doth not overflow (as the River Nilus) to water the Grounds, neither doth it rain enough here sufficiently to moisten the Seeds and Garden-Plants, that they be not burnt by the great Heat of the Sun, wherefore they must look out for such Means, as will supply this Want. To do this they erect Water-Wheels (whereof Three or Four stand behind one another) in the River, which go Night and Day, and dip up Water out of the River, which is emptied into peculiar Chanals, that are pre∣pared on purpose, to water all the Ground. But if the Places lie not conveniently, or the Shore be too high to erect such Wheels, they make instead of them Bridges and peculiar Engines, that are turned by a Couple of Bullocks, to bring the Water up, with great Leathern Buckets, which are wide at Top and narrow at Bottom. This Land being so fruitful, we soon found, to our great Pleasure, great Quantities of delicate Fruit, sold for a small Matter of Money, and among the rest chiefly Indian Musk-Melons, that were very well tasted.

When we came further we had generally even ground at both Sides, and not a few Fields, the most Part whereof, were sown with Indian-Millet, for they sow more of this than of Wheat or Barley, for the Sand is pretty deep, wherein the Corn would not grow so well. This Millet was just fit to be cut down, and in some Places they had it in already. It shoots up into a high Stalk about Six, Seven, or Eight Cubits high, the Leaves thereof are like unto the Indian-Corn, or Sugar-Reeds, which I took it for at First, and that because the Inhabitants did chaw it as well as the Sugar-Canes, because of the sweet and pleasant Juice (which is more in the upper Part of the Cane, whereas that of the Sugar-Canes is more in the lower) which they draw out of it, untill I saw at length their white hairy Tops sprout out, which are large and not unlike to the Italian-Millet. These are full of whitish Grains, each of which sticks between Two broad flying Leaves, of the Bigness of those of the Orabus, yet somewhat more compressed at the Sides. Hereof they bake very well-tasted Bread and Cakes, and some of them are rowled very thin, and laid together like unto a Letter, so that they are about Four Inches broad, Six long, and Two thick; they are of an Ashen Colour. The Inhabitants call it still at this Day by its ancient Ara∣bian Name Dora, whereof Rhases maketh mention, he that will may read more of it in Authors.

Our Voyage went on very well, wherefore the Mer∣chants began several Pastimes, some did play at a Play called the Eighteenth, and others played at Chess, in which Two Games they were very well versed; others spent their time in Reading and Singing. Among the rest there was a Merchant from Balsara, that sung out of his Alcoran (which was put into Rhymes in the com∣mon Arabick) several times with a loud and delicate Voice; so that I took great Delight in hearing him. Yet they were not so hot in their Gaming or Jesting, that they should therefore forget the Hour of their Prayers, chiefly their Divines that were in Orders, which used to call them out with a loud Voice, at the usual Hour, either in the Ship, or without in the De∣sarts,

if they could have convenient Time and Oppor∣tunity. But among the Persians I found a greater Zeal and Earnestness, than among the Turks or Moors, all which Nation have notwithstanding the same Cere∣monies in their Prayers. For as they have chiefly Five Hours of Praying, whereof Three are in the Day-time; viz. the First about Noon, the Second about Three, and the Third when the Sun begins to set, the two others in the Night, one in the Morning an Hour and half before the Sun riseth, and the Second after Sun set when the Firmament begins to look white and the Stars to appear: So the Persians would not be hindered, by the Darkness of the Night, Danger of the Place, Inconveniency of the Time, to go out, when the o∣thers were asleep, on the Ground in the Island where we were landed, and say their Prayers with such an Earnestness and Devotion, as I have often seen it, that the Tears run out of their Eyes: I must also needs say that they keep closer and stricter to their Laws than almost any other Nation, which forbid them to drink Wine, and command them to live in Poverty, and to watch and pray continually.

The Eighteenth Day of October we came early to Hadidt, a pretty large, yet anciently built Town, belonging to the King of Arabia, which is also di∣vided into two Towns by the River Euphrates, like unto Ana, whereof the greater part lieth on this Side of the River. Here the Master payed for his Ship two Sayet, (one whereof is about Three-Pence in our Country) to the Customers, and so set Sail again, to try whether he could reach that Night to Juppe: And he did oftner than ever before, speak to his Men to pull on (chiefly where the River in its Breadth and Depth was almost like unto the Sea) so that at Night pretty late we arrived at Juppe, a pleasant and well built Town belonging to the Turks, and it is also di∣vided into two Parts, whereof one lieth in the middle of the River on a high Ground, at the Top whereof is a Fortress, so the Town is pretty well defended: The other (which is rather bigger) lieth on the lest in Mesopotamia, wherein are many fine Orchards belong∣ing

to the Houses, full of high Date-Trees, &c. where∣fore the Merchants spent half a Day there to buy Dates, Almonds, and Figs to carry with them into the Inns; the same they did at Idt another great Town of the Turks, on the Right-hand of the Euphrates situate on a high Ground, where we arrived on the 20th of October at Night in very good Time, and gave them instead thereof Soap-balls, Knives, and Paper, &c. After which goods they have often enquired of us; and we have given them sometimes some Sheets of white Paper, which they received with great Joy, and returned us many thanks for them.

After our Merchants had sufficiently stored them∣selves with these Goods, and our Master had pay'd the Duty for his two Ships, he put off about Noon on the 21st of October and went away. About the Evening we saw at this Side of the River a Mill, and also the next Day another, whereby were several old Walls Doors and Arches, &c. Whereby I conjecture that formerly there stood a Town. These two Mills (as I was informed were two Powder-Mills that make Gun-powder for the Turkish Emperour, and send it to him in Caravans, together with other Merchandizes through the Dominions of the King of Arabia, wherefore he must as well as other Merchants, pay Duty (for that Liberty) and Toll or Custom. The Gun-powder is not made from Salt-Peter, as ours is, but out of ano∣ther Juice, which they take from a Tree that is reckon'd to be a kind of Willow; known to the Persians by the Name of Fer, and to the Arabians by Garb, as I have mentioned above. Besides this they take the small Twigs of these Trees together with the Leaves, and burn them to Powder, which they put into Water to separate the Salt from it, and so make Gun-powder thereof, yet this is nothing near so strong as ours. Pliny chiefly testifieth this in his 31st Book and 10th Chapter, where he saith that in former Days they have made Niter of Oak-Trees, (which certainly he hath taken these to be, for they are pretty like Oaks) but that it hath been given over long before now. Which is very probable, chiefly because the Consump∣tion

thereof was not so great, before they found out Guns, as it is now since they have been found out.

Further on the Water-side, on the high Banks, I saw an innumerable many Coloquints grow and hang down, which at a distance I could not well know, un∣til they called them by their ancient Arabick Name Handbel, whereby they still to this Day are known to the Inhabitants. After we had navigated a great way several Days one after another, through even Grounds, and in a good Road, we arrived at length on the 24th. Day of October, at Night, near to Felu∣go or Elugo, a little Village called so, and with it the whole Province.

CHAP. VII.

Of Old Babylon the Metropolis of Chaldee, and its Situation, and how it is still to this Day, after its terrible Desolation to be seen, with the Tower or Turret, and the old ruined Walls, lying in the Dust.

THE Village Elugo lyeth on the place where for∣merly Old Babylon, the Metropolis of Chaldee, did stand; the Harbour lyeth a quarter of a League off, whereinto those use to go, that intend to travel by Land, to the Famous trading City of Bagdet, (which is situated further to the East on the River Tigris, at a Day and a half's distance). At this Harbour is the place where the Old Town of Babylon did stand, but at this time▪ there is not a House to be seen, whereinto we could go with our Goods and stay till our de∣parture. We were also forced to unload our Mer∣chandises into an open Place, as if we had been in the

midst of the Desarts, and to pay Toll under the open Sky, which belongeth to the Turks. This Country is so dry and barren, that it cannot be tilled, and so bare, that I should have doubted very much, whether this Potent and Powerful City (which once was the most Stately and Famous one of the World, situated in the pleasant and fruitful Country of Sinar) did stand there, if I should not have known it by its Situation, and se∣veral ancient and Delicate Antiquities that still are standing hereabout in great Desolation. First by the Old Bridge, which was laid over the Euphrates (which also is called Sud by the Prophet Baruch in his first Chapter) whereof there are some Pieces and Arches still remaining, and to be seen at this very Day a little a∣bove where we landed. These Arches are built of burnt Brick, and so strong, that it is admirable; and that so much the more, because all along the River as we came from Bir, where the River is a great deal smaller, we saw never a Bridge, wherefore I say it is admirable, which way they could build a Bridge here, where the River is at least half a League broad, and very deep besides. Near the Bridge are several heaps of Babylonian Pitch, to pitch Ships withal, which is in some places grown so hard, that you may walk over it, but in others that which hath been lately brought thither is so soft, that you may see every step you make in it. Something farther, just before the Village Elugo is the Hill whereon the Castle did stand in a Plain, whereon you may still see some Ruines of the Fortification, which is quite demolished and uninha∣bited: behind it pretty near to it, did stand the Tower of Babylon, which the Children of Noah (who first in∣habited these Countries after the Deluge) began to build up unto Heaven; this we see still, and it is half a League in Diameter, but it is so mightily ruined, and low, and so full of Vermin that have bored holes through it, that one may not come near it within half a Mile, but only in two Months in the Winter, when they come not out of their holes. Among these In∣sects, there are chiefly some in the Persian Language called Eglo, by the Inhabitants, that are very poyso∣nous;

they are (as others told me) bigger than our Lizards, and have * 1.2 three Heads, and on their Back several Spots of several Colours, which have not only taken Possession of the Tower, but also of the Ca∣stle (which is not very high) and the Spring-well, that is just underneath it, so that they cannot live upon the Hill, nor dare not drink of the Water (which is wholesome for the Lambs.) This is Romance.

From this Tower, at two Leagues distance Eastward, lieth the strong Town Traxt, which was formerly called Apamia, mentioned by Pliny in Book VI. 26 and 27 Chap. between the Tigris and Euphrates, those two great Rivers of Paradise, whereof is made mention in the Second Chapter of Genesis; which two Rivers not far below it meet together, and are there united. The Town Traxt is surrounded with Ditches, and very well defended by two strong Citadels, that lie on each side thereof, so that it is (as it were a Key and Door∣way into the Kingdom of Persia, to which it doth also belong, as others not far from thence, viz, Orthox, Laigen, which lie on the Road toward Media; and also Goa (which lieth a League and a half at the other side of the Tigris,) and Axt (two Leagues further still) in the way to Persia.

The next Day, the 25th. of October, we spent in be∣speaking of Camels and Asses to load our Goods upon, and after we were quite ready, we broke up the Day following early in the Morning with the whole Ca∣ravan, to travel to Bagdet. In the beginning the ways were very rough of the Stones and Ruines that lie still from thence dispersed. But after we were passed the Castle and also the Town of Daniel, the dry Desarts began again, where nothing was to be seen but Thorns, neither Men nor Beasts, neither Caves nor Tents, so that a Man that knoweth the ways never so well, hath enough to do to find them through it, which I did often observe in our Guide or Caliphi, who did seve∣ral

times (because there was neither way nor mark nei∣ther of Men nor Beasts to be found) very much doubt which way to turn himself, and so he did more than once turn sometimes towards one, then toward the other side the whole Caravan. By the way we saw in the Plain many large, ancient, high and stately Buildings, Arches and Turrets standing in the Sand (which is very fine, and lieth close together, as you find it in the Vallies) here and there, whereof many were decayed and lay like Ruines; some to look upon, were pretty entire, very strong, adorned with Artificial Works, so that they were very well worth to have been narrowlier looked into. Thus they stand solitary and desolated, save only the Steeple of Daniel, which is entire, built of black Stones, and is inhabited still un∣to this Day; this is in height and building something like unto our Steeple of the Holy-Cross Church, or of St. Maurice in Augsburg; on which as it stands by it self, you may see all the Ruines of the Old Babylonian Tower, the Castle-Hill, together with the stately Buildings, and the whole Situation of the Old Town very exactly.

After we had travelled for Twelve Hours through desolate places, very hard, so that our Camels and Asses began to be tired under their heavy Burdens, we rested and lodged our selves near to an ascent, we and our Beasts, to refresh our selves, and so to stay there till Night, and to break up again in the middle thereof, that we might come to Bagdet before Sun rising. The mean while, when we were lodged there, I considered and viewed this ascent, and found that there was two behind one another, distinguished by a Ditch, and ex∣tending themselves like unto two parallel Walls a great way about, and that they were open in some Places, where one might go through, like Gates; wherefore I believe, that they were the Wall of the Old Town (whereof Pliny says that they were 200 Foot high, and 50 broad) that went about there, and that the places where they were open, have been anciently the Gates (whereof there were a Hundred Iron ones) of that Town; and this the rather, because I saw in some places under the

Sand (wherewith the two ascents were almost covered) the Old Wall plainly appear. So we found our selves to be just lodged without the Walls of that formerly so Famous Kingly City, which now with its Magnificent and Glorious Buildings, is quite desolated and lieth in the Dust, so that every one that passeth through it, in regard of them, hath great reason to admire with astonishment, when he considers, that this which hath been so Glorious an one; and in which the Greatest Monarchs and Kings that ever were, Nimrod, Belus, and after him King Merodach and his Posterity to Bal∣thasar the last, have had their Seats and Habitations, is now reduced to such a Desolation and Wilderness, that the very Shepherds cannot abide to fix their Tents there to inhabit it. So that here is a most terrible Ex∣ample, to all impious and haughty Tyrants, shewn in Babylon, which may be sure, that if they do not give over in time, and leave their Tyranny, ceasing to per∣secute the Innocents with War, Sword, Prison, and all other cruel and inhumane Plagues (as these did the People of God the Israelites,) that God the Almighty will also come upon them, and for their Transgressions punish them in his Anger, for God is a jealous God, that at long run, will not endure the Pride of Ty∣rants, nor leave unpunished the Potentates that afflict his People; wherefore be sure, he will also in them verifie the Prophecies, which he hath uttered by the Prophet Isaiah in his 12th. Chapter, and Jeremiah in the 51st. against those insolent and haughty Babylo∣nians.

As I passed by, I found some Thorns growing in the Sand, viz. the Acacia, called Agul, whereon (chiefly in Persia) the Manna falls, whereof I have made men∣tion before; above all I found in great Plenty some strange kinds of Cali of Serap., of Coloquints, and when Evening fell in, and the Night did approach, our Mockeries that drove the Asses, made themselves ready again for our Journey, which kept every thing to∣gether in good Order, and were so quick in loading and unloading, that they were ready in less than a quar∣ter of an Hour. By the way I saw again several An∣tiquities,

but the Night falling in I lost them; so we went on a-pace in darkness, so that we did arrive at Bagdet, by some called Baldac, two Hours before Day. In the Morning, which was the 27th. of Octo∣ber, I and one of my Comrades took our Lodging at an Eminent Merchant's House, that belonged to A∣leppo, and was lately come from the Indies; he re∣ceived us kindly, and very readily, and kept us for four Days, when we took a Shop in the great Camp of the Turkish Bashaw, in the other Town, on the other side of the Tigris, which we went into.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the Famous City of Bagdet, called Bal∣dac; of its Situation, strange Plants, great Traffick, and Merchants of several Na∣tions, that live there, together with seve∣ral other things, I saw and did learn at my departing.

THE Town Bagdet, belonging to the Turkish Emperour, is situated on the most Easterly part of his Dominions, on the rapid River Tigris, and the Confines of Persia, in a large Plain, almost like unto Basle on the Rhine, it is divided into Two Parts, which are rather bigger than Basle, but nothing near so pleasant, nor so well built, for the Streets thereof are pretty narrow, and many Houses so miserably built, that some of them are down to the first Story, and o∣thers lie quite in Ruines: The case is the same with the Churches, which for age look black, and are so much decayed, that you shall hardly find a whole one; whereon are still several Old Arabian, or rather Chal∣dean

Inscriptions to be seen, cut out in Stone, by the means whereof many Antiquities of the Town might have been truly explained, but I could not only not read them, but could get no body that could interpet them to me. There are some Buildings that are worth see∣ing, as the Camp of the Turkish Bashaw, and the great Batzar or Exchange beyond the River in the other Town, and the Baths which are not to be com∣pared with those of Aleppo and Tripoli, for they are at the bottom and on the Walls done over with Pitch, which maketh them so black and dark, that even in the Day time, you have but little Light. There being two Towns, one of them which lieth on this side is quite open, so that you may go in and out by Night without any molestation; wherefore it should rather be called a great Village than a Town; but the other that lieth towards Persia on the Confines of Assyria, is very well Fortified with Walls and Ditches, chiefly towards the Tigris, where there are also some Towers, two whereof are within by the Gates that lead towards the Water-side, to guard them, and between them are the old high Walls of the Town, whereon on the top are stately Writings, with Golden Letters, each whereof is about a Foot long, to be seen; the true meaning thereof, I would fain have learned, but for want of Understanding and Interpreters, I could not obtain it, but was forced to go without it. Near unto it there is a Bridge made of Boats that reacheth over the Tigris into the other Town, which in that place is about as broad, as the Rhine is at Strasburg, and because of its rapid Stream so dark and dull, that it is a dismal sight to look upon it, and may easily turn a Man's Head and make him giddy. This River runneth not much below the Town into the Euphrates, and so they run mixt together into the Persian Gulf, by the Town Balsara, which is six Days Journey distant from thence Eastward. These two Towns as is said, at the River Tigris, were many Years agon, built out of the rui∣nated City of Babylon, whereof the one on the other side of the River is accompted to be the Town of Se∣leucia of Babylon, and that on this side, which is more

like unto an open Village, is believed to be the Town Ctesiphonta. Strabo in his Book XV. doth testifie this, when he writes thus of them; That Babylon hath for∣merly been the Metropolis of Assyria, and that after its devastation, the Town of Seleucia, situated upon the Tigris, near which was a great Village, wherein the King of the Parthians did keep his Residence for the Winter. Pliny maketh also mention thereof in his Sixth Book, and in the 26th. and 27th. Chapter, viz. that the two Towns of Seleucia of Babylon, and Ctesi∣phonta were built out of the Ruines of the Old City, and that the River Tigris runs between them. In the Town Seleucia, stands in a large place, the Castle, which is without guarded neither with Walls nor Ditches, nor is quite finished within. Before it lie some Pieces of Ordnance in the Road, which are so daubed with Dirt, that they are almost quite covered. In it dwel∣leth the Turkish Bashaw, who (when he understood that two Strangers were come into his Camp) sent for us, and had us before him by his Men; along with us went freely an Armenian, whom we had known for∣merly at Aleppo, to assist us, and to be our Interpreter, to give the Bashaw a good and sufficient account of us.

When we came into the Room of the Bashaw (which was but very ordinary, yet spread with delicate Tape∣stry and well adorned) and appeared with accustomed Reverences, he asked us (sitting in his Costly yellow-coloured long Gown) by one of his Servants in French, which he did not understand very well, from what places we came, what Merchandises we had brought with us, and whither we intended to go. After we had punctually answered him to each Question, yet he was not satisfied, but bid us to withdraw, and stay until we heard his Answer. We understood his mean∣ing very well, that it was only to scrue a Present out of us, yet we would not understand it, but shewed him our Pass, subscribed both by the Bashaw and the Cadi of Aleppo, to try whether that would give him Content. So he took it and read it over, and looked very diligently upon their Seals, as they use to seal

(after they have dipped it first into Ink) so that all but the Letters is black. When he found them right, and did not know any more to say to us, he let us go, then we made him his Reverence again, and so we went backwards out of his Lodgings, for if you turn your Back to any one (although it be a far meaner Person) they take it as a great uncivility, rudeness, and dispa∣ragement. This Bashaw keeps a great Garrison in the Town of Bagdet, because it lieth on the Confines of Susiana, Media, &c. which are Provinces belonging to the King of Persia, and the Grand Signior hath no∣thing more towards the East of it to command. His greatest Dominions are the Wildernesses of the Desart Arabia, whereof the Turk hath one Part, but the o∣ther, and the bigest belongs to the King of Arabia. After the Bashaw had given us leave to go, we went to our Lodgings again, and bought by the way in the Batzar some Provision to eat, and to boil for Supper, for in these Countries are no Inns to be found, where∣into one may go, and find a Dinner ready prepared for Chance-Customers, as in our Country is done, except one would go into a Cook's Shop, whereof there are a great many in the Batzars; but every one boileth for himself what he hath a mind to, without Doors, be∣fore his Lodgings, where there is a Chimny for that purpose, so that in the Morning, and at Night when it is time to eat, you see every where in the Allies of the Camp several Fires. When we went to eat we were forced (because in these Chambers is neither Ta∣ble, nor Stools, nor Bench) to sit down on the Ground, and also lie upon it all Night, so that our Cloaks were very useful to us, to serve us instead of a Bed, chiefly in the Winter, to keep us warm, yet the Winter is not very severe in those Countries; which you may con∣clude, for that our March-Flowers, Narcissus's, Hy∣acinths, Violets, &c. were here full in Flowers in the Month of December; and that the Farmers went to Plough at that time; wherefore I judge that their Winter is like unto our Spring. When we lived at Bagdet, I found by our Catering, that the Scarcity was still very considerable, and it would have been

more, and have encreased, if the Towns that lie above it on the Euphrates and Tigris, and chiefly Mossel, which formerly went by the Name of Nineve, had not sent them great Supplies, as did also those of Ca∣rahemit, &c. which Supply they have also almost al∣ways, at any other time, occasion for, for their cultiva∣ted Grounds are chiefly in Mesopotamia, where they have almost none at all, so that there groweth not enough to maintain themselves; wherefore the two Rivers are very necessary to them, not only to provide them with Victuals, as Corn, Wine, Fruit, &c. but also to bring to them all sorts of Merchandices, where∣of many Ship-loads are brought in daily. So that in this Town there is a great Deposition of Merchandices (by reason of its commodious Situation) which are brought thither by Sea as well as by Land from several Parts, chiefly from Natolia, Syria, Armenia, Constanti∣nople, Haleppo, Damascus, &c. to carry them further into the Indies, Persia, &c. So it happened that during the time I was there, on the 2d. Day of December, in 74. there arrived 25 Ships with Spice and other pre∣cious Drugs here, which came over Sea from the Indies, by the way of Ormutz, to Balsara, a Town belonging to the Grand Turk, situated on the Frontiers, the fur∣thest that he hath South-Eastwards, within Six Days Journey from hence, where they load their Goods in∣to small Vessels, and so bring them to Bagdet, which Journey, as some say, taketh them up Forty Days. Seeing that the Passage both by Water and Land, be∣longeth both to the King of Arabia and Sophi of Per∣sia (which also have their Towns and Forts on their Confines) which might easily be stopt up by them, yet that notwithstanding all this they may keep good Cor∣respondence with one another, they keep Pigeons (chiefly at Balsara) which in case of necessity might soon be sent back again with Letters to Bagdet. When loaden Ships arrive at Bagdet, the Merchants (chiefly those that bring Spice, to carry through the Desarts into Turky) have their peculiar places in the open Fields without the Town Cresiphon, where each of them fix∣eth his Tents, to put his Spices underneath in Sacks, to

keep them there safe, until they have a mind to break up in whole Caravans; so that at a distance, one would rather believe that Soldiers were lodged in them, than Merchants; and rather look for Arms than Merchants Goods: And so I thought my self, before I came so near that I could smell them.

Some of these Merchants that came with the same Ships, came directly to our Camp, and among the rest a Jeweller, which brought with him several precious Stones, viz. Diamonds, Chalcedonies, which make in∣comparable Hafts to Daggers, Rubies, Topazes, Sap∣phirs, &c. the two first whereof he had procured in Camboya, and most of the rest in the Island of Zeylan, whereof he shew'd us several very fine ones. The Merchants bring these along with them in great Ca∣ravans, and keep them very close and private, that they may not be found out at the Custom-Houses and be taken away from them, which the Bashaws, do con∣stantly endeavour with all their Might and Power. For the Turks do not love that Precious Stones should cost them Money, for they are extraordinarily covetous, wherefore you find but a few among them, but if they can have them without cost, after the aforesaid man∣ner they love them dearly; and keep them in great Esteem. In the room of them other Stones are sent into the Indies again, Corals, Emralds (which are bought best in Aegypt) Saffron, Chermes-berries, and several Sorts of Fruit, as Cibebs, Dates, (which are there so pliable and Soft that you may pack them to∣gether in great lumps as they do Tamarinds) Figs, Almonds and many others which I cannot now remem∣ber, and also several Sorts of Silks; and Turkish Hand∣kerchiefs: But above all, fine Horses, whereof they send Abundance into the Indies by the way of Persia, but more by the way of Ormutz, wherefore the King of Portugal, received yearly a good Sum of Money for Custom, viz. Forty Ducats for each, which the Merchants pay very freely, because that those that im∣port Horses (as I am informed) pay but half Duty for their other Goods at the Custom-Houses, and sell them besides with good Profit. Some of these Horses

are also sent (because of their Beauty and Goodness) into Syria, Natolia, and to us into Europe, where they are sold or presented to Princes, and other great Persons of Quality. They feed there Horses in these Countries chiefly with Barly and Straw, so as it is broke by their Threshing-Waggons, which they hang about their Heads in Sacks, as they do also about Asses, rather than give it them in Man∣gers, as we do. For want of Straw they sometimes litter them with a fine loose Earth, which they after∣ward throw by in heaps to make it clean again to serve another time. When among other Merchants, Christians arrive from our Countries at Ormutz, which happeneth very seldom, all those of them that have been any ways afflicted by Turks, Arabians, or Jews, must appear, before some certain Officers of the King of Portugal, appointed for that purpose, and make their Complaints to them, of what hath happened to them, or what Damage they have suffered or received; and in Case they should omit any thing, they are them∣selves severely punished. If then it appeareth, that one of them hath been cheated of his Money, imme∣diately some Merchants of the same Nation although innocent, and knowing nothing of it, are flung into Prison, where they must remain until they have made Satisfaction to the utmost Farthing, and are besides se∣verely punished, for an Example to others that they may take warning. But if a Christian should be mur∣thered, and they come to know of it, then Three or Four of them, more or less, according to the Manner of the Fact, must suffer and lose their Lives for every Christian. From thence it cometh, when Merchants of many Nations are going into a Ship in order to go to the Indies by the Way of Ormutz (where they must land upon Penalty of Confiscation of all their Goods) that, when first they put off, they look strange∣ly upon one another, and take great notice of, or mind one another much, and say very little or nothing, not making themselves known, fearing that something may be had against them; and this endureth so long, untill they are gone half the way, then they begin to be

acquainted. Further I understood, that the King of Por∣tugal's Governour in the Indies hath already (to make himself strong and the more able for a War) made se∣veral of the chiefest and powerfullest Indians Knights or Noblemen, to the Number of 5000; and hath sent many Jesuits to reform these Countries, to propagate their Religion and to institute there the Spanish Inqui∣sition. The Indians are lank in Body, brown in their Colour, well shaped, and of a very good Understand∣ing: Wherefore Persons of Quality, and Merchants love to buy them, and chuse them for their Servants, being in their Business very faithful, diligent and care∣ful, as I have known many of them. These and many more Nations, as Turks, Moors, Armenians, Curters, Medians, &c. which every one of them have their peculiar Language, are at Bagdet in great Numbers, but chiefly the Persians; so when I was there, there ar∣rived a Caravan of Three Hundred, with Camels and Horses, &c. with an Intention to go to Mecha, to give Mahomet a Visit, which they think, after Hali and Omar (who were his Companions and did live in that City) to be a very great Man. These Persians have a peculiar Language, so much differing, That neither Turks nor Arabians, nor other Oriental Nations can understand them, and so they are forced to make them understand their meaning by Signs or an Interpre∣ter, as well as I and other Strangers. They also have their peculiar Characters. They sit well on Horse-back, and have on long and wide Drawers, which serve them also for Boots, and are very well furnished with Scy∣meters, Bows and Darts: instead of Spurs, they have, as it is the Fashion in those Parts, pointed Irons which are about an Inch and a half long, and are sowed to the hind part of their Shooes. They are also called Red Turks, which I believe is, because they have behind on their Turbants, Red Marks, as Cotton-Ribbands, &c. with Red Brims, whereby they are sooner discerned from other Nations. They may also be distinguished, by their grey woollen Coats, which have commonly Three Plaits behind, and come hardly down to their Knees. They are a strong and valiant People, of a

noble Countenance, and Mind, very Civil, and in their Dealings upright. They are very wary in their Under∣takings, which you may see by this, that before they conclude a Bargain, they take up more time to con∣sider than others to two or three, which I have several times observed. Among other Merchandices they have delicate Tapestry of several colours, and several sorts of Cotton-Work, in which they are great Artists, and well skilled, but as for others, as Gold and Silver working, &c. they understand little, and a great deal less of Gilding, wherefore they take any thing that is glossy for Gold. They love the Christians that are Artists and Ingenious in these sorts of Works, and shew them all Civilities. But as for the Turks, because great and bloody Wars arise often between them, they hate them very much, and call them Hereticks; 1. Because they will not esteem nor receive Hali and Omar (which they denominate Caliphi) as the greatest and highest Prophets or Legates of God, that have, after Mahomet, given more certain and better Laws. Wherefore they esteem them a great deal higher; nay, worship them like Gods. 2. Because that they as circumcised Men, esteem their Women to be unclean, and reckon them to be Members that are not to be saved, and therefore exclude them out of their Churches, so that they may not appear there publickly, which by the Persians ac∣cording to their Laws and Ordinances, after they have spoke some Words after them, are received as blessed Ones, and admitted to come to their Churches. From whence arise between these two Nations great Quarrels and Differences sometimes, but yet they do not fall upon one another, nor make Incursions in time of Peace, so violently on the Frontiers, as they do in Hungary; probably that one may (because Negotiation goeth further into Persia, and bringeth in great Custom to the Grand Signior) trade the safer into these Parts. It is cheap and very good travelling through these Countries into the Indies, and the Customs and Duties are very easy.

Further I understood from others, that here and there in Persia live several Christians, and that most of them are

of the perswasion of Prester-John, whom they call Amma; and which way they are brought to it, I am thus informed, That formerly about Twelve Years a∣gone, it did happen that the King of Persia made a League with Prester-John against the Turks, which came then very hard upon him, and gave him his hands so full, that he was forced to seek for help by Strangers. Now when Prester-John thought it very inconvenient for him to make a League with a King that was not of his Religion, he sent him a Message again, that he could make no League with him, except the chiefest of the Articles were, that he and his Subjects would receive his Religion, then he would not only do him all Friendship that in him lay, but also assist him with all his Might and Power, which at length was agreed up∣on. Whereupon he did send him one of his Patriarchs and some of his Priests, which in process of time had this Effect, that now even at this Day, there are a∣bove twenty Towns in Persia, where the most of the Inhabitants are addicted to the Religion of Prester-John. They have also as I was told, several Books of the Holy Scripture, and chiefly among the rest, some of the Epistles of St. Thomas, which they call Aertisch. And besides that, their Patriarch hath brought it to that pass, that they are no more so zealous in their Superstitions; and are of Opinion that Circumcision is not necessary, and that so much the rather, because their Enemies the Turks and Jews have it. And, for the same rea∣son they do not abhorr the forbidden Beasts, but eat Pork, &c. nor refuse to drink Wine, and that as be∣fore said, because their Adversaries are forbid it by their Law. So that the Christian Faith doth in Persia en∣crease daily more and more, and they begin to be Christened with Fire, according to their Fashion, and in the Name of God the Father, Son and Holy Ghost, whom they notwithstanding (according to their Opi∣nion) rather believe to be a Creature, than the Third Person of the Trinity, and that he doth only proceed from the Father and not from the Son. But that those that are Christians may be discerned, they wear a blue Cross on the inside of their left Leg a little above the

Knee. They also administer the Sacrament of the Holy Supper or Communion, and give it as well to the Young as to the Old ones in both kinds; but before they go to it, they must have their Feet washed, where∣fore there are little Rivolets led through the Churches, where they sit down, and some of the chiefest of the Town come to them and wash their Feet, and when that is done they give unto one another a Kiss of Love; then they read the Words of Christ's Institution, and so go to receive it; they do not come to Confession before: And they endure no Images in their Chur∣ches, but instead of them they make use of Harps, Pipes and other Instruments, wherewith they make Musick, but chiefly at the King's Court, at Samarcand (where his best Musicians are) which Town, as they say, was built by Sem the Son of Noah, and called after his Name. What else is to be said concerning the Points of their Religion, shall be hereafter mentioned in the Chapter of the Abissines.

Further I was informed at my return, that after the Decease of Gamach the King of Persia, that had three Sons and one Daughter (who was soon married to one of the chiefest of the Council at Court) whereof the Eldest called Alschi was beheaded, because he did endeavour to take away his Father's Crown, the other two are still in being; the youngest of them Balthasar liveth in Parsid, a peculiar Province and Town in Persia, which lieth on the Borders of the Indies; and the middlemost, called Ismael, was lately after his Father's Decease, elected King, almost at the same time, when the now reigning Turkish Emperour Amura∣thes came to the Crown. This is still young, and of a tall and slim Body, but very manly, and full of Cou∣rage, and well skill'd in all Warlike Exercises, so that he dare before any of his Courtiers ride wild and unbroken Horses (by them called Aecaik) which are not easi∣ly mastered. They are brought to him a great way off out of the Eastern Parts; they are as I am informed of an Ashen colour, only some have white Legs; in these and other Exercises he hath shown his Manliness from his Infancy. But when he did encrease in Age

and in Strength, the Anger and Displeasure he bore a∣gainst the Turks did increase also, and to that Degree that he resolved, during his Father's Life, to be re∣veng'd of them, for the wrong they had done to his Ancestors. Wherefore, a little while agone he brought together a great many Men in the frontier Places, to surprize the Town of Bagdet unawares, being one of the Chiefest, that formerly had belonged to his Ancestors, together with the whole Country, wherein the new Kings of Persia when they first come to the Government are used to be crowned. When he was thus prepared for the Onset, and nothing was wanting, some Tray∣tors ran away from his Troops and acquainted the Bashaw of Bagdet with his Design, so the Bashaw was forced to arm himself with all Speed as well as he could, that he might be able to oppose him in his De∣signs. But when the King's Son would have put his Intention into Execution, the Bashaw fell upon him unawares with such a Number and Strength, that he could not only attempt nothing but was beaten, and he himself taken Prisoner. Besides this the Grand Turk would have had him to be beheaded, if his Father had not with great earnestness taken his part, and given him for his Ransom the Town Orbs in Mesopotamia. Af∣ter this the old King had enough to do, to keep his Son in safe Custody, that he might not begin new Alarms and Wars against the Turks.

Before I began my Voyage in March, in the Year 74; certain News came to Aleppo that 25000 Turks were killed on the Confines of Persia and Arabia; but in what Place this Battel was fought, and which way it was done, I could not learn (for if they suffer any Damage they always keep it very close and secret) nor any ways hear: Wherefore the Turks at that time were a great deal harder towards the Christians, so that many suffered for their Misfortunes Sake: But if they had obtained the Victory (as well as not) they would not have been so silent, but would have spread it a∣broad, and have related it to others, that did not ask them, with high and big Words. So great an Opinion have the Turks of themselves, that they really believe,

there is no other Nation, that can conquer the World so as they, although they are not to be compared with the Persians, neither for Strength, Manliness, nor Shape; so therefore they could effect but very little against others, if it were not for their great Number, where∣with they over-power them. And to speak only of the Inhabitants of this Town, there are so many sick and lame People in it, that you would admire to see so many lame and limping ones in the Streets; yet the King of Persia cannot hold out the War at length, nor keep a War at a great Distance, for his Revenue is not so great as to make sufficient Provision for his Offi∣cers and Souldiers, &c. to pay them as well in time of Peace as of War: For his Subjects are freed from all Taxes and Impositions, according to their ancient Pri∣vileges and Customs. They never arm themselves for a Defence, but when they are called together by their King, to defend and protect their Country, House or Land, Wife and Children, against the Assault of an Enemy.

When I was thus enquiring from one or other, and en∣deavouring to inform my self and learn whether it were more commodious for us two, to go by Water to Or∣mutz, or by Land through Persia into the Indies, and we thought of nothing else but to begin our Voyage daily to go further; I was call'd on a sudden by a Let∣ter to come away for Aleppo immediately, which trou∣bled me very much, and that the more when I consi∣dered, that I was passed the Wilderness and come into the fruitful Eastern Countries, which would have been very well worth seeing. So after I had considered a while, I agreed with my Comerade, that he should go on with the Voyage in hand, and that I (because besides the Letter, I had others no smaller Hinde∣rances) would go back again. So I fitted him out for his Voyage with all Necessaries, so that two Days after he went with other Merchants into the Ship for Bal∣sara. Not long after I had of him, a very mournful Message or Account that the Ship (wherein he went from Balsara to Ormutz) was perished in a great Storm, near the Island Baccharis in the Persian Sea (where

they find good store of Oriental Pearls) and that he and several other Merchants, and rich Merchants Sons from Aleppo were drowned. At the same time I might have returned back again with a great Caravan to A∣leppo, but because they took the straightest way through great and sandy Desarts, which lasted for Fifty Days Journeys or thereabout, where we had but two pla∣ces to pay Custom in, where we could buy Provision, as Water and other Necessaries, I resolved within my self to go by more Fruitful Places, and Famous Towns (although I went about) where I might see and learn something more; so I did stay in the great Camp longer until I met with some Companions. In the mean time, while I stayed there, I made my self ac∣quainted with an eminent Merchant, that lived in A∣leppo, and had been several times in the Indies; who told me, that the Jesuits had begun to set up a very severe Inquisition in the Indies, chiefly in God, where they observed diligently, those that did not take of their Hats to the Images (which were set up in seve∣ral Streets of the Town) that they might put them into Prison, which he did very much dislike, believing it to be very great Idolatry.

After he had said this, he began to talk further to me concerning Religion, and chiefly of the Articles of our Christian Faith; and made me immediately (when he began to be sensible that I was of the same) so fine a Confession of his Christian Faith, so plainly and with such Grounds of Scripture, that I was astonished, for I could never have believed, I could have met with the Fellow of him in these Countries. So he began to have a great Love for me, and desired me to go along with him, and to stay with him in his House, until I had an Opportunity to go further, or that I might make him a Companion in his Voyage into the Indies, that during those Travels, he would shew me all Kind∣nesses he could; nay, be as careful of me, as if I were his own Son. And after he understood that I was a Physician, he proferred of his own accord to recom∣mend me to the Bashaw, who was then sick, and his very good Friend, to be his Physician. But I having

understood before, that others that had done the same, had been but very ill rewarded for their Pains and Care they had taken, and chiefly by those they did Cure; I would not undertake it, fearing I should have the same measure, and instead of a Reward have my Li∣berty taken away from me, wherefore I thanked him for his Kindness. Had it not been for this, I should have accepted of it, notwithstanding that they have no Apothecaries Shops that are any thing provided, but I must have bought the Ingredients from one Shop∣keeper or other, and so collected them from several places, for I could hardly find any thing by them, sa∣ving some strange sort of Turpentine Nuts, whereof they have abundance, and they are as good, as Pistachia's, wherefore the Inhabitants keep them by them, and eat them as we eat small Nuts in our Country. I have eaten several of them, and found them of a saltish taste and of a drying quality. These are called by the Ara∣bians, Botn, and by the Persians, Terbaick. I have chiefly seen two kinds of them, the greater and the less, and so the Arabians distinguish them into Botn∣quibir and Sougier. The bigger is in shape pretty like unto the Pistach Nut, only it is a little rounder and so shorter; the lesser is with its hard shell of the big∣ness of a Pea, and are shaped like unto an Hart, or the Dora, that is, the Indian-Hart. A great many of them grow in Agemia, Persia, Mesopotamia and Arme∣nia, &c. and grow together in clusters like Grapes as the Pistachies do, or rather the Berries of our Turpen∣tine-Trees, for which they ought to be taken; chiefly, because the Trees wherein they grow, are in their long Leaves pretty like unto the Turpentine-Tree, whereby they are easily distinguished from the Pistachia-Tree, which hath roundish ones. This being so, I take the little one for the Bell, and the great one for the Fael of Serapio, Avicen and Rhases, which (as Authors say) grow chiefly in the Indies: And this the rather, because Authors attribute the same Virtue and Operation to them. So may according to this, chiefly the great Nuts Fael, be taken for the Fruit of the Indian Tur∣pentine-Tree, whereof Theophrastus in his Fourth Book

and Chapter Five, maketh mention, all which would be too tedious to be related here at large. Besides these Nuts, the before-mentioned Authors (chiefly Serapio in his 251st. Chapter) makes still mention of another sort of Fruit, called by him Sel, and by Avicen, Scel, which are not in hard shells, but as I saw them, quite bare, of the bigness of a Pistachia-Nut, and of the co∣lour of the Kernel of our Wall-nut; they have a pret∣ty bitterish taste, and sensibly Sharp. I did find none of them in these Parts by the Shop-keepers, but had it only after that in the Monastery of the Minorites in Jerusalem, of one of their Order, who told me also that they did grow in these Countries. Of Coloquints, or white gourd Apples, still known to the People by the old Name Handhal, there grow so many hereabout, that they send them to Aleppo, and from thence into our Countries; and also the delicate round Cyperus Root, by the Inhabitants called Soëdt, whereof one may find great quantities growing in mossy and wet Grounds. I did also find by the Shop-keepers, the white Seed of Machaleb, which are in hard shells, which are long and pointed, and covered without with a tender skin, like unto the Pistachia-Nut. A great quantity of them are carried from thence into Syria, and used to perfume Soap-Balls. The Trees whereon they grow I did not see, yet, as I am informed, they grow here∣about, but chiefly on the Mountains that are by the way to Persia. They are still to this Day by the Inha∣bitants, as by Serapio, called Nahandt. But although there are several sorts of them, yet they all boil them (after they have been steep'd for some hours in Water, to get off the thin shells, as we do with Almonds) in Milk or Wine into a Pap, and put Sugar or Honey to it, chiefly to the white ones to take away their bitter∣ness. I found farther a strange Gum in great pieces, somewhat like unto Frankincense, or Ammoniacum, which the Inhabitants chew all Day long instead of Mastich, and they attribute the same Virtues to it. Wherefore great quantities thereof are brought thither (chiefly from Persia) which they call Taxa, as I am informed from the Tree Tax, which are very like un∣to

Cypresses in shew and bigness, only their Roots are not so long, wherefore they are the easier over-turned by the Wind. According to this, I remember of the Trees Thuja, whereof Theophrastus maketh mention in Book V. Chap. 5. and of Thya of Pliny. I also saw without the Batzers or Exchanges, very high and big Caper-Trees; and here and there in the Fields a pecu∣liar sort of Red-grass, like unto that of Babylon, ac∣cording to the description of Dioscorides, and hath still retained his ancient Arabian Name Negil among the Inhabitants. This hath long fibrous and yellowish Roots, with many Joynts, and puts out by them year∣ly several Buds, which grow into hard Leaves, which are long and pointed, and at each side very sharp and cutting, like unto them of the Red-grass; between them come out small Stalks or Holms, each whereof hath a peculiar Ear at the top coming out of its Grass-sheath, which is long, thin, and its Seeds grow in two rows, between small Leaves, like unto the wild Galen∣gal. This doth not only grow hereabout, but also in several other Places and Provinces, where the Ground is sandy, as Susiana, Persia, &c. in great quantity, and because it is by reason of its sharpness and cutting, very pernicious to Beasts, as to Bullocks, Horses, &c. so that they die of it, therefore they have or keep the fewer of them, but instead thereof they keep Buffles (which can feed upon it easier than other Beasts) to eat this Grass, which maketh the Buffle very cheap in these Countries, for I have seen one buy three of them for eight Ducats (which is in our Money about 48 Shil∣lings) that was bigger than an Hungarian Bullock. Thus much I had to relate of Bagdet, its Situation, Trade, and strange Plants, so much as I could find and see at that improper time.

Being that I expected daily Company to go with me to Aleppo again, by the way of several Towns, and not straight through the sandy Wildernesses, a Per∣sian that I got acquainted withal in the mean while did inform me, that the Sophi King of Persia, had se∣veral Unicorns at Samarcand, which he kept there; and also in two Islands Alc and Tylos, which lay from

Samarcand nine Days Journey, further towards the East, near Spaam, some Griffins (by them called Ale∣ra) which were sent him out of Africa from Prester-John. They are a great deal bigger and higher, have a red coloured Head, a bearded Bill, and a Neck over-grown with Feathers, a thick Body, black Wings like unto an Eagle, and a long Tail like a Lion, and Feet like a Dragon, they are very eager for Flesh; while they are yet young, the King taketh them along with him, and goeth often thither for Sport and Pleasures sake; but as they grow up and strong, he hath them chain∣ed about their Necks very strongly. I did believe this the sooner * 1.3, because he could also tell me what Trees and Fruit grow there, and chiefly those whereof Theophrastus maketh mention, and out of him Pliny. He also gave me an Account besides these of others that grow out of Persia in several places, as of the Tree Palla, which Theophra∣stus and Pliny mention, which the Wise men did eat in the Eastern Countries, and of the Musa of the Arabians, where∣of the former bear delicate sweet-tasted, and very wholesome Fruit, by them called Wac, which are round, reddish, and as big as the Indian Melons. But whether this be the noble Fruit Man∣gas, (whereof Clusius maketh mention in his History of Indian Plants, which for Goodness sake is carried over Sea into Persia) I leave to the learned to decide. But the Musa (which is as aforesaid, also common in Syria) beareth a great deal smaller Fruit, which is smooth, yellowish, and bended, almost like unto Ci∣truls in shape. These are also of a sweetish taste, and therefore the pleasanter to eat; but are very unwhole∣some, so that Alexander the Great, was forced to for∣bid his Souldiers to eat of them. The same Persian,

did also inform me of the Poysonous Fruit Persea, which is still known to them by the Name of Sepha▪ which they esteem very little; and also the Peaches (called Het) which are not so poysonous (as some say) as the above-mentioned; for they esteem the Kernels thereof to be good, wholesome Physick. But yet that they are not esteemed by them, the chief Reason is, that they perswade themselves, that Nimrod (who was a great Magician or Necromancer) poysoned them by his Black-Art, and that since that time, they could not be eaten; wherefore they have not been esteemed ever since: This I thought convenient to mention, rather for the sake of those, that have a mind to tra∣vel, that if one or more of them should go into these Countries, they might have occasion to make a more accurate enquiry after these things.

CHAP. IX.

Which way I came in my return from Bag∣det through Assyria, the Confines of Per∣sia, and the Province of the Curters, to the Town Carcuch, Capril, &c. and at length to the River Tigris, to Mossel, that Famous Town which was formerly called Nineve.

WHen hindered in my Travels, for several weighty Reasons, I was forced to go back again; I looked up my Goods, as I was advised by my good Friend, the Christian, (whereof I made men∣tion here before) and fitted my self for my Journey. I got for my Companions three Jews, one whereof came down the Euphrates with me, the others came

from Ormutz, (for I could get no others) to travel with me to Aleppo. We set out on the 16th of De∣cember of the 74th. Year, for Carcuch distant Six Days Journey, in the Confines of Media, on the other side of the River Tigris, which is still called by them in their Language Hidekel. By the way we first saw some well-tilled Fields, and above us on the River Tigris some Villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a Country that had plenty of Corn, Must and Honey, &c. as it was commended by the the Arch-koob bearer of the King of Assyria, and com∣pared even with the Land of Promise, but the further we went, the greater grew the Wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all Night in the Fields.

The next Morning there appeared a great way off more little Villages belonging to the King of Persia: But we went on through the Desarts (and my Fellow Travellers told me that they extend themselves to Persia and Media) where we lost our way, and came in the Evening into a Bog which hindered us so much, that I (because their Sabbath began, whereon according to their Laws they must not travel) was forced to stay there, with them, all Night long in it, and also the next Day, in great Showers of Rain, not without great Inconveniency and Trouble. During our staying there I look'd about me for some Plants; but found none because they did but first begin to sprout, but in the moist Places some wild Galengal with great round Roots by the Inhabitants called Soedt, and by both La∣tines and Grecians, Cyperus.

The 19th Day, after we were, not without trouble, got out of the Mire, our way extended its self still further through desolate Places and Desarts. I thought of Julian that impious Roman Emperour, and of his Army, which when it went against the Persians, and was very numerous, over the River Tigris near to Ctesiphon, he was by an Ancient Persian that was a Pri∣soner, decoyed into these Desarts, where he was bea∣ten and routed by the Persians. In this great Fight when the Emperour himself was mortally wounded, he took up (as Nicephorus and Eusebius say) a hand∣full

of Blood and flung into the Air, yielded the Vi∣ctory and said, Then Galilean (so he called Christ in whom he at first believed, and afterwards denied and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquered me. After we had lived for several Days very hardly in the De∣sarts, and spent our time in Misery, we came on the 20th by Scherb a Village, over an Ascent, into ano∣ther more fruitful and well tilled Country, situated on the Confines of Persia, and for the most part inha∣bited by them, which we could conjecture by the com∣mon Language. Now though travelling through the Confines, uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet (I thank God) we met with none, so that we without any Stop or Hinderance, reached that Night, the 21st. of December, to Schilb, a curious Village, where we rested all Night and refreshed our selves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful Valleys, but I found nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of plowing time) that was worthy to be mentioned, for the Plants did but just begin to sprout; we had by the way several Villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy Provision. The Three and Twentieth at Night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred Eggs for Two pence.

The next Day we got up early again, and saw be∣fore us the high Mountain Tauri all covered with Snow (which extendeth its self a great way from North and West to the Eastward) at a great Distance. We went on apace, and advanced to Tauk early in good time, and before their Sabbath began again. This Town is not very strong and lieth on a Plain. We went into a Camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when it began to grow dark, they de∣sired of me to light a Candle. I remembred then imme∣diately, that they could not do it themselves▪ being for∣bid by Law, as you may find in the 35th Chapter of Exodus, where you may see that they must kindle no Fire in any of their Habitations, wherefore they fur∣nish themselves the Day before with all sorts of Pro∣visions and Necessaries, that they may not need to do any Labour on the Sabbath, and yet may not want.

When these Jews say their Prayers, they use the same Ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the Ea∣stern Parts do: For first they lift up their Hands, then they bow down forwards with their whole Body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the Ground. These Jews bragg'd continually of their Patriarchs, and made mention of the Laws; but of the Ten Commandments they knew nothing, wherefore I took an Occasion to repeat them before them in the Portugal Language (which is very much spoke in the Indies) as well as I could, and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But when I began to speak of Christ and his Office, they bursted out into such Blas∣phemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my Tongue.

Not far off from Tauk, we saw a very strong Ca∣stle, near unto a Wood, that is guarded by a Turkish Garrison: This is situated in the Province of the Cur∣ters, which beginneth there, and lieth between Me∣dia and Mesopotamia all along the River Tigris and reacheth to Armenia. These Curters, which are almost all Nestorians, speak a peculiar Language, which was unknown to my Fellow Travellers, wherefore they could not speak to them in the Persian nor Turkish Language, which is spoke all along from Bagdet through Assyria (in the Confines of two potent Monarchs) to that place. We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both Languages, to be our Interpre∣ters through the Country of the Curters. But whe∣ther this Language did run upon that of their Neigh∣bours the Medians or no, I could not certainly learn; but yet I was informed that the Parthians, Medes and Persians, as peculiar Nations, had their peculiar Languages, as Histories tell us, and we may also per∣fectly see in the Acts of the Apostles the 2d Chapter and the 8th Verse, where it is thus written: And how hear we every Man in our own Tongue, wherein we were born? Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites and the Dwellers in Mesopotamia, &c. all which Peo∣ple almost are Subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of Persia. The before mentioned Curters were formerly

called Carduchi, and afterwards also Cardueni (as chief∣ly Xenophon testifieth) have had their peculiar Policy and Government. But after many Changes and Wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the Do∣minion of the Turkish Emperour, to whom they are still subject to this Day, and he hath every where his Garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is further to be said of them, chiefly concerning their Religion, shall be hereafter mentioned, when I shall give you an account among other Christians, of those that live in the Temple of Mount Calvaria in Jerusalem.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my Companions, was over, we went on again, and came the 26th. of De∣cember to Carcuck, a glorious fine City lying in a Plain, in a very fertile Country; at four Miles distance, is ano∣ther that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travel∣led, my Companions having Business in both of them, and so we spent two Days in them, before we were ready to go on again.

The 29th. we travelled through large and dry Heaths, and came at Night to some Tents, which were made of Hair or Hair-cloth, wrought out of Goats and Asses Hair, and fixed in such an Order, that they made Streets and Allies like unto a Market-Town. In one of these we went to lodge with these poor People (that are white Moors, and like unto the Gypsuns in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long. But whether these People are subject to the Turkish Emperour, or to the King of Persia, or any other, I could not find out by their Cloths, because they all wear the same hereabout, nor could I discern any thing by their Language. To us came a little after some more Travellers, so that we had hardly room to lie down in. These People were very diligent and busy to get us some Meat and Drink, for the Husband went soon out of Doors to gather dry Boughs and Stalks of Herbs (which I could not at that time discern what they were) and brought them to us to boil or dress some Meat with them. The Woman was not idle neither, but brought us Milk and Eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also some Dough for Cakes (which were about a Finger

thick, and about the bigness of a Trencher, as is usual to do in the Wildernesses, and sometimes in Towns also) she laid them on hot Stones, and kept them a turning, and at length she flung the Ashes and Embers over them, and so baked them thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of baking Cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so we find in Scripture mention made of Bread baked a∣mong the Ashes; the Romans called it, Panes Subcineri∣tios; and so we read in Genesis the 18th. Chapter, of Cakes made upon the Hearth, which Sarah made in haste when the three Men came to see Abraham.

The 30th. we went from thence, and about Noon we came to a Town called Presta, which is chiefly to∣wards the River whereon it lieth, very well fortified, but what the Inhabitants call that River, I do not re∣member, but according to its Situation it must be that which Ptolomy calleth Gorgus, which runs below into the Tiger. In this place they make Floats, which al∣though they are not very big, nor have much Wood in them, yet they have abundance of Bucks and Goats Skins blown up, hung or fixt underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may load the more upon them, and also because the River is rapid, that they may have the less fear or danger. On these Floats they carry several sorts of Merchandices, but chiefly Fruit, viz. Figs, Almonds, Cibebs, Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, &c. a great part whereof goeth further into the Indies.

The last Day of December we travelled on, and came through well tilled Fields about Night into the Town Harpel, which is pretty large, but very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with Walls, so that it might easily be taken without any great Strength or Loss; there we rested again the next Day being the Sabbath (and on the same Day fell New-Years-Day.) In the mean time I understood that the Turkish Sangiack did a few Days ago condemn and put to execution eight great Malefactors, which made it their Business to Rob and to commit Murder up and down on the High-way, (for there are a great many of these Rogues in this Province)

chiefly on the borders of Armenia, which are very Moun∣tainous, which maketh travelling very dangerous. The Relations and Friends of these Murderers and Robbers did take this very ill, that the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good In∣telligence of this their Intention, wherefore he went away incognito for Constantinople, to complain to the Turkish Emperour of this their unjust Proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his escape, and found that he wanted Mo∣ney (which is very seldom) he took up from an Arme∣nian Merchant (that was very rich, and was arrived there to buy several Merchandices, chiefly Gauls, where∣of grow many in these Parts) 300 Duckets, which put the Merchant into great danger: for when these rebelli∣ous People came to understand it, they took it very ill of him, and threatned him very much, so that he was forced to stay some Days longer for more Com∣pany, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the 5th. of January in a very handsome Number, for the Merchant alone had about Fifty Camels and Asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry to Carahemit (where he lived) and to send from thence to Aleppo, where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our Country. So we travelled all Day long and also half the Night, without eating or drinking, very fast, and began to rest about Midnight. After we had for the remaining part of the Night hardly refresh∣ed our Beasts and our selves with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before Day-light, to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and pleasant Vallies, we came betimes to ano∣ther River by Ptolomy called Caprus, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so that we had much to do to get through, which I found not

without a great detriment to my Plants, which I car∣ried on Horse-back before me.

Soon after Noon a great way off before us, appeared a great Market-Town, Carcuschey, where we arrived by Night, and fixed our Camp without and pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by Armenians, which we could presently find by the alteration of the Lan∣guage and their Habit. They received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had staid with them till Night, and refreshed our selves and our Beasts, we broke up again immediately and travelled all Night, which was so dark, that we heard several Caravans that met us, but we could not see them, much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break of Day we came to another much larger Ri∣ver, by the Inhabitants called Kling (if I do not mis∣take) and by Ptolomy, Licus, which hindered us very much in our Day's Journey; for the River being very broad, at least a long Mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right Ford, and not without great Dan∣ger, which the Curters knew very well, so that we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our Company that had often forded that River formerly, we ventured it, went in, and got over (thanks be to God) very safe, only one Ass which went over below us, where the Stream went stronger, was drowned, so that we arrived very early on the 7th. of January to the Tigris again, and went into the Fa∣mous City Mossel, that lieth on this side of the River, over a Bridge made of Boats. This is situated in the Country of the Curters, and so we were forced still to keep our Interpreter. It belongeth to the Turkish Em∣perour, as all the rest hereabout. There are some very good Buildings and Streets in it, and it is pretty large; but very ill provided with Walls and Ditches, as I did observe from the top of our Camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw just without the Town a little Hill, that was almost quite dug through, and in∣habited by poor People, where I saw them several times creep in and out as Pismires do in Ant-hills. In this place and thereabout, stood formerly the Potent Town

of Nineve (built by Ashur) which was the Metropolis of Assyria, under the Monarch of the first Monarchy, to the time of Sennacherib and his Sons, and was about three Days Journey in length. So we read that the Pro∣phet Jonas, when at the Command of God, he preached Repentance to them, did go into it one Day's Journey, which the People did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their Lives, but they did not long remain peni∣tent, but turned to their former Iniquity again, where∣fore their Destruction and Ruine, was prognosticated to them by the Prophets Nahum and Zephaniah, and also by the pious Tobias, that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was it re∣built again afterwards, and did suffer very much up∣on changes of Governments, until at length Tamerlan came and took it by Storm, burnt it, and reduced it into Ashes to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew Beans and Colocasia, &c. So that at this time there is nothing of any Antiquities to be seen as in Old Babylon, save only the Fort that lieth upon the Hill, and some few Villages, which as the Inhabitants say, did also belong to it in former Days. This Town lieth on the Confines of Armenia, in a large Plain, where they sow the greatest part of their Corn, on the other side of the River; for on this side in Mesopota∣mia, it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle of the Desarts of Arabia. Yet there is a very large Deposition of Merchandices, because of the River, wherefore several Goods and Fruits, are brought thither from the adjacent Countries, both by Land and Water, to Ship them for Bagdet. Among the rest I saw abundance of small and great Turpen∣tine-Nuts, by the Inhabitants called (as above-said) Bont-quiber and Sougier; and also another sort of Man∣na as big as a double Fist, which is very common here, and is brought from Armenia, as they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer, and not so sweet as that of Calabria, yet very good and pleasant to eat. Within it are several red Grains, so small that one taketh no notice of them when one eats it. It looseneth the Body very well, but not so much

as ours, wherefore the Inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the Morning, as the Country-men on the Mountains of Algaw eat Cheese. But whether the Arabians make mention thereof, if it be not the Man∣na Alhagiezi, whereof Avicen in his Second Book the Second Treatise, and the 758th. Chapter maketh men∣tion, I know not neither what it is to be reputed. The Town Mossel is as above-said, for the greatest part inhabited by Nestorians, which pretend to be Chri∣stians, but in reality they are worse than any other Na∣tions whatsoever, for they do almost nothing else, but rob on the High-ways, and fall upon Travellers and kill them: Therefore being that the Roads chiefly to Zibin (to which we had Five Days Journey, and for the most part through sandy Wildernesses) are very dangerous, we staid some Days longer expecting more Company that we might go the surer.

CHAP. X.

Which way we went through Mesopotamia by the way of Zibin, and Orpha, to Bir, not without a great deal of danger; and after∣wards how we passed the great River the Euphrates, and came at last into Syria, by Nisib, to the Famous Town of Aleppo.

AFter our Journey had been deferred for four Days, we broke up on the 11th. of January several Hun∣dred strong, and went on for the whole Day with∣out eating, with all speed until the Sun set at Night, when we encamped on an ascent near a small Village, to keep our Beasts and Goods safe, and to refresh our selves and them. We watched all Night long, and went continually three and three together, round about our Camp by turns.

The next Day we proceeded on again in our Jour∣ney with all speed, rather for a good Fountain or Spring's sake, (as they do in these Countries, in the vast Desarts) than to reach a good Inn, where we ar∣rived late at Night, and encamped near it, to stay all Night to rest. A little after when we were at Sup∣per, some of the Curters came to us into our Camp, spoke to us kindly, and asked us whether we did want any thing that they could help us to, but we soon perceived them to be Spies, that were sent by their Companions, to see what Strength we were of. But when they perceived that we were not pleased with them, they did not stay but went away, and we com∣posed our selves to rest, but kept a good Guard as we had done the Night before. About Midnight when we were in our first Sleep, our Watch-men perceived a great Number of the Curters to approach, wherefore they awaked us with a great shouting to alarm us the soon∣er, and to bring us into good Order, and to frighten our Enemies and to drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haste they could up to us, and that so near, that we could see them, although it was dark, before our Camp, by their Heads. But when they found us in a good Order and Condition to oppose them, and did hear that our Gun∣ners and Archers (which were ready to let fly at them) called with a loud Voice to them, tahal, tahal Harami, that is, Come hither, come hither you Thiefs, &c. they halted for a little while, and were so afraid of us, that they turned their Backs and run away. Afterwards when we feared nor expected their Assaults any more, they came quickly again a second time, in a far great∣er Number than before. They led before them one Camel, and several Horses (which in the dark we could only discern by their Heads looking against the Sky) in their Hands, without doubt, that we might look upon them to be Travellers, or else that we might not be able to discern their Number. But notwithstanding all this their first Assault was still in fresh Memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew soon up in our former Order again (wherein I was the left-hand Man

in the first Rank again, with my Scymeter drawn, and had before armed my Breast with several sheets of Pa∣per, that I had brought with me to dry my Plants in) expecting their assault every Moment. But when they made a halt again, (fearing their Skin as much as we did ours) and did neither shout nor move up to∣wards us, one of ours provok'd them, and did shoot at the Camel, and did hit it so that it gave a Sign there∣of, but the rest forbore to fire. So they Staid a little while, and then went off a Second time.

So we kept awake all the Rest of the Night, and kept a good Watch, and went on our Journey again early the next Morning about break of the Day; and came a∣gain to wide and dry Heaths, where we saw neither Men nor Beasts, and so we went on till Noon, where we encamped in a large Place, which was surround∣ed with Walls and Ditches pretty well, just like unto a Fortress, whereof there are several in these dan∣gerous Places to be seen. When we stayed there, two Curters came again to us into our Camp, and spoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the Toll that was due there, it being their Place: but our Mer∣chants soon perceived, that they were not in a right Cause, wherefore they would allow them nothing, which put these two into such a Passion, that they drew their Swords, and would have at us; but our Friends did not stay idle neither, but took their swords away, and laid on with dry Blows at them, and so flung them out of our Camp. After this Hubbub was over, we dined, and that the rather that we might not be too much weakned by our hard travelling, and so be the less able to resist these Robbers, for want of Strength if they should fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before Night, chiefly in great Desarts, for there we used to get up presently after Mid night, and tra∣vel all Day long with all Speed, without eating, which I had often experimented before; wherefore I used to provide my self always with Bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either stay behind or go before: for no body eats openly by the way in the sight of others, except he has a mind to run a Hazard, because

that most of them are very hungry, and so eager at it, that they will assault one another for it, and take it away from their very Mouths. After we had refreshed our selves, and fed our Beasts (which useth to be done also but once aday) we broke up with our Caravan, and went on again. We quickly saw some Mountains before us, where, when we approached them towards the Evening, there appeared sometimes, on a high one that before the rest lieth nearer to the Plain, some of them, so that we might very well presume, that there was more of them behind in Ambuscado, which also proved very true: For no sooner were we pass'd it, but before we went up the Hill, they came out from behind the Mountain, in great Troops on Horse-back, which immediately drew up into order in the Fields, in Two Squadrons, Three and Three in a Rank, to the Number of about 300, almost as many as we were. They exercised their Horses (which were very lank) very swiftly, turn'd sometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and came at length to us within a Bows Shoot. They had most of them Darts, which they plaid withal in their full Speed, sometimes holding it down-wards as if they would run through a Deer, which was a pleasant but very dangerous Sight to us. When they shewed themselves so as if they would fall upon us instantly, we drew our Ca∣ravan close together, in order to resist them. Where∣fore we stood still, and tied our Beasts together and bound the Fore foot of each of them, that they could not stir: behind them stood our Mockeri, with their Bows and all those that were not well provided with Arms, and Horses, either to shoot at the Enemy, or else in Case of Necessity, if they should come too near us, to sally out, and cut off their Horses with our Scy∣meters. Near unto us our Horses were drawn up into a Troop, ready for their Assault, to venture their Suc∣cess. After a whole Hour's delay we sent at length two of our Company to them, and they sent also Two of theirs to meet them to parley together: But which way they made up an Agreement I know not, but they prevailed so much with them, that soon after they left

us, and rode away, and we went on in our Journey. After this we kept our Caravan (that is so much to say as a great many People, with loaden Camels, Asses, and Horses) in far better Order than we had done be∣fore, and came that same Day a good Way, to a small Village, where we encamped and stayed all Night. We found no Wood thereabout, wherefore we made shift with Bread, instead of other Victuals, and were very glad we had it. In the mean time the Inhabi∣tants came to us, to gather the Dung of our Beasts (as they do in several other Places, chiefly in the De∣sarts of Arabia) to burn it instead of Wood, which they do after the following Manner.

They make in their Tents or Houses a Hole about a Foot and half deep, wherein they put their earthen Pip∣kins or Pots, with the Meat in them closed up, so that they are in the half above the middle, Three Fourth Parts thereof they lay about with Stones, and the Fourth Part is left open, through which they fling in their dried Dung (and also sometimes small Twigs and Straws, when they can have them) which burn im∣mediately and give so great a Heat, that the Pot groweth so hot as if it stood in the middle of a lighted Coal-heap, so that they boil their Meat with a little Fire quicker than we do ours with a great one on our Hearths; so that these poor People, must make very hard Shift, and do sometimes as the Israelites did in the Siege of Jerusalem, where they also in their greatest Necessity did boil their Meat with Dung of Men and Beasts, as you may read in the 4th Chapter of Ezekiel. This Night and several others before, we passed more with watching than with sleeping, so that sometimes we contemplated the Constellations of the Skies, which are very much observed by these Nations, but chiefly by the Arabians, which lodge always in the open Air and have no Shelter, so that by the Stars they know the Hour of the Night, and when it is time for them to break up. They care not for Beds, but rather have Cloaks or Tapestry wherein they wrap themselves up and keep themselves warm, so that no Frost, nor Rain, nor Dew can hurt them.

The next Morning we broke up (that we might not expose our selves any further) only after Day∣light, and travelled all Day long without any Molesta∣tion or Hinderance a long way after several rough Mountains: and also the next Day through sandy De∣sarts, which were deep and hindred our going on very much. When it began to be Night, our Beasts were almost ready to lie down under their Burthens in the Sand, which was very tiresome to us, and that the rather, because we saw the Town Zibin far off be∣fore us, at Four Miles distance, but at length we got out of this bad Road, into green Meadows, to very clear Springs, which run over in several Places to water them: So that we began to make more speed, and came the same Night yet very late into the Town. It is a fine Place subject unto the Turkish Emperour, not very big, lying on Ascent, very well surrounded and fortified with Walls and Ditches. It is full of Conduits or Springs, but chiefly in the great Camp, where we rested for five Days to stay for more Com∣pany. There live Abundance of Armenians in it, for it lieth in the Confines of the greater Armenia, and so we were no more in so great danger as we were in the Country of the Curters. During my staying there, the abovementioned rich Armenian Merchant, and also an eminent Turkish Gentleman (which were very kind to me upon the Road) desired me several times (having heard from the Jews that I was a Physician) that I would be pleased to go along with them to Ca∣rahemit, which Town was Four Days distant at the other side of the Tigris) to cure some of their Relations that were not well, they proffered me good Entertain∣ment, and to recommend me to the young Bashaw Son of Mahomet Bashaw (which was also sick at that time) and to bring me into good Business; which I would have done with all my Heart, and nothing could have pleased me better, than to have served the Armenian for his Kindness. Yet because I was sent for to come to Aleppo, and could not but be as good as my Word, wherein I had also no small Interest, I was obliged to leave that Journey, and to strive with all Speed and

Diligence to get thither. Now as this Bashaw is among the rest (except the Visir-Bashaws, whereof there are four or five, which are always at Court about the Tur∣kish Emperour, as being his Privy Council) the Chief∣est in Turky, so he hath larger and more fruitful Ter∣ritories than he of Bagdet, or any other, to govern, viz. Assyria, Mesopotamia, and a large part of the greater Armenia, and of the Province of the Curters, &c. all which border upon the Dominions of the Sophi King of Persia.

After we had refreshed our selves during this time, very well, and other Companies had joined us, we broke up on the 20th. towards Night, and went away. By the way we saw several plough'd Fields and Villa∣ges, and we could speak better with the People, for they understood the Armenian, Turkish or Arabian Languages, which are generally used in these Countries. So our Travels went on with great speed, so that we reached on the 21st. late, the Town of Hochan, where the Jews rested and kept their Sabbath. Here we re∣ceived the News that Solyman the Turkish Emperour was Deceased.

The 23d. we got up early again, and went the next way to Orpha, another Town, to which we had Five Days Journey. From thence the nearer we came to the Mount Tauri (which separateth Armenia from Me∣sopotamia, towards the South) the worse grew the Roads, which we found very sufficiently the next Day, for when we came further into the Mountains, the ways were so full of Stones that we were hindered very much. Going thus on, after it had snowed a little (which I have never seen but twice in these Countries) it happened, that one of the Jew's Horses which was empty was frightened at something, and flung it self over and over. The Jew hearing this noise, looked back, and seeing me stand by it, he grew angry with me, as if I had done it, and began to handle his Bow and Arrows to shoot at me, when I found him in ear∣nest, and remembred how I lost my Wine in the Ship, when we went down the River, I did not delay, but went to hinder him, took him by his Leg and flung

him off his Horse, before he could take his aim at me; so we fell a boxing one another so long, until at length I tripped up his Heels. When the other two saw that we spoiled thus the Figure of the Snow, and that I was too hard for him, and had given him several hard blows, they came immediately to sepa∣rate us, and to make Peace again between us; I see∣ing that they did not come to wrong me, and also considering that we were to Travel together still fur∣ther, took their Counsel, and was friends with him again, and so we went on in our way. At Night we came to another Village again, in a narrow Valley ly∣ing at the bottom of a great ascent, near which we found a great Stable wherein we went, this was quite cut into the Hill, and so was that wherein we lodged the Night before, so that you could see nothing of it, but only the entrance, for they are commonly so in these hilly Countries under Ground, that the Caravans may safely rest there and defend themselves from Cold in the Winter. This Stable (being 25 Paces long and 20 broad, and all through equally high) was cut out of a Rock. About midnight, when we were in our first Sleep, one of the Grand Signior's Chiaus, or Chamber-Messengers, knocked at the door of the Stable, who was come back from Bagdet in Six Days to this place, to look about for some fresh Horses (because he had tired his own, and could not have others by the way, as in our Country where Posts are ordered.) So he went in, took away from one Mockeri or Carrier, three Pack-Horses, and two more from the Jew (that I had had Contention with before) for these Messengers of the Chamber have great Privileges, and in case of neces∣sity, where-ever they see Horses in City or Country, they may take them leaving theirs in the room thereof: They value one no more than another, except Mer∣chants and Strangers, which they excuse before others, to encourage Trade; those that they come to, must deli∣ver up their Horses, without any reluctancy, except they have a mind to be soundly bang'd (as one of our Friends was that did not open the Gates immediately) or else to fare worse. When this Chiaus believed he had got

very good Horses, he soon found his mistake, for the Jew's Horses had galled Backs, wherefore he let him have them again for a small recompence, which was a Child's Coat made of delicate Indian Stuff. When our Journey was thus stopt, chiefly because of the Mockeri or Carrier, until he could procure himself other Horses in the room thereof, at least for that Day, we rose the earlier the next Day, and traversed seve∣ral rough Mountains, and went through narrow Val∣lies that Day, until at Night we came to a Village in∣habited by Armenians. These are good-hearted Chri∣stians, which have great Compassion on their Fellow-Christians, and love to entertain and to be kind to Strangers, which I have very often experienced, but chiefly in this Village, where one of the Armenians took me and the Jews into his House, and would fain have kept us also the next Day. Being at leisure, I would fain have conferred and discoursed with him con∣cerning our Christian Faith, and so was he willing, but being that we could not understand one another, and the Jews were in this case by no means proper Inter∣preters, we were forced to have patience by silence, and to look at one another. About that time they kept Lent, which I could perceive by their small sort of Diet (for they did eat nothing but leguminous Food and Bread and Water.) After he had set before us some boiled Eggs at Night, and I being hungry fell on them, not imagining that they kept such strictness and difference in their Diet, he admired that I did not refuse to eat the Eggs, and asked me by one of the Jews, whether I did not know that it was not allow∣ed to Chistians to eat Eggs and the like Victuals in Lent; at this I would fain have answered him (that it became Christians to keep Lent rather with Soberness and Abstinency, than with Distinctions and Differen∣ces of Foods.) But I not understanding the Language, only answered him briefly, that our Lent was not yet begun, nor would until three Weeks hence begin, which did content him presently.

The 28th. we went on our Journey again, and came right among the high Mountains, which were very

rough, and full of Bushes; we got out of them before Night, and lodged our selves in the next Village, which lieth on an ascent in the Plain, where we also stayed the next Day being the Sabbath. By the way, when the Jews were in fear of having their Horses taken away, as was done some Days before, they often gave them to me to lead them, as if they were mine, hoping to carry them off the easier, so that although they were my Guides, yet I was their Safeguard.

After we had past the great and rough Mountains, and were come into a very fruitful Valley, which ex∣tendeth it self for a small Day's Journey to Orpha, there appeared presently on each side several Villages, and afterwards the Costly City against us with the Castle situated on the Hill, very pleasantly. Into this we got on the 30th. at Night very early, and went to lodge in the large and very well built Camp, and stayed there for four Days. This Town is very plea∣sant, pretty big and with Fortifications well provided. It was formerly together with the whole Country, be∣longing to the Kings of Persia, but now it is as well as the greatest part of the Country, brought under the subjection of the Turkish Emperour. Orpha is a Town of very good Trade; they deal in Tapestry of several sorts, some whereof are made there, and sent out to us; there is also a great Deposition of Merchandices, which are brought thither from Aleppo, Damascus, Constantinople, and other places, to go to Carahemit, Five Days Journey distant from hence, and so to be carried further into Media, Persia, the Indies, &c. yet all these Goods are brought thither in Caravans by Land, because there is no Navigable River belonging to it. Some say that this Town was anciently called Haran and Charras, from whence the Patriarch Abraham de∣parted with his Wife Sarah, and his Brother's Son Lot, according to the Command of God, Gen. Chap. 12. and went forth to go into the Land of Canaan, which the Lord had promised to give him, and there is a plentiful Well still to this Day called Abraham's Well, where the Servant of Abraham (whom he sent into Me∣sopotamia to the Town of Nahor, to fetch a Wife for

his Son Isaac, from his own Kindred) did first see Re∣becca, when she gave him and his Camels some Wa∣ter to drink out of this Well. And so did afterwards the Patriarch Jacob, when he fled from his Brother Esau, at this same Well, make himself known to Ra∣chel the Daughter of Laban his Mother's Brother, when he removed the Stone from the head of the Well, and so let her Sheep drink. The Water of this Fountain hath a more whitish troubledness than others. I have drunk of it several times out of the Conduit, that runs from thence into the middle of the great Camp, and it hath a peculiar Pleasantness and a pleasant Sweet∣ness in its taste. To the same did also come the Son of the Pious Tobias, conducted by the Angel Raphael, whom his Father sent to Rages (now called Edessa) as is above-mentioned, to call in a Debt from Gabel, as you may read in the 11th. Chapter of his Book, when they returned by the way of Haran, which is half way to Nineve.

After the Jews had done their Business there with good Success, we went on in our Travels again, and came again into the high and rough Mountains, where we spent also the next Day with great trouble and hardship, until we came again to the great River Eu∣phrates into the Town Bir, whereof I have made men∣tion before. And although we had no more but two half Days Journey to Aleppo, yet the Jews my Fellow-travellers had Business in the Famous Town Nisib, (which is situated on this side the River on the bor∣ders of the lesser Armenia) so that we were bound to go thither; so we put out again on the 6th. of February after their Sabbath, and went through very fruitful and well cultivated Corn-Fields, to Andeb, towards Evening. It is a pretty big Town, but not very strong. It lieth on two small Hills very pleasantly, so that you may see it plainly and distinctly, as soon as you come from out of the Valley by the Lake into the Fields. Yet notwithstanding that it is so pleasantly situated and looketh so stately at a distance, it is but pitifully built when you come within it. In former Ages this Town hath been several times besieged by the Kings of

Persia, by whom it was taken at last, and kept so long, until the Roman Emperour Galienus Odenatus Palmy∣renus, took it from King Sapor, together with the Town Orpha, and laid it to the Roman Empire again. But in these our Times, to our grief, it is brought a∣gain, together with all the Country, under the Ottoman Slavery. The Inhabitants have very little Trade, they live for the most part upon their Estates, by cul∣tivating their Grounds, and chiefly from the Fruits of Vineyards and Orchards, which are planted with Pomgranates and Figs, &c. so thick, (that from the great quantity of Trees they may have the more Fruit) that you would at a distance, rather take them to be Woods of wild Trees, than of fruitful ones. So they send Yearly many sorts of Fruits, but chiefly Cibebs into the Eastern Countries, by great Caravans, where∣of I have met many. After we had staid here, and I had lost a whole Day, for their Business sake, we broke up again directly for Aleppo, and having passed for se∣veral Miles through rough, bad, hilly ways, we came at length into a plain, delicate and fruitful Country, so fruitful of Wine and Corn, that on all my Journey, I have seen none like unto it. This did almost extend it self to Aleppo, where we arrived early, with the help of the Almighty God, in very good health, on the 10th. Day of February. At my arrival, because my Comrade Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, with the rest, were not there then present, presently some French Merchants (which I had cured of several Distempers before my departure) came to me, and carried me home with them, desiring me to live with them untill my Business (which caused me to come back) were done, wherein really they did me a very great Kindness. For I having very well torn my Cloaths (which never came from my Back in half a Years time) I had there an Opportunity to rest my self and to procure my self some new ones. I thank the Almighty God, for his many Mercies and Favours bestowed on me, and the Assistance he graciously af∣forded me in this Voyage, returning him Praise, Honour and Glory, &c.

CHAP. XI.

Of the Turkish Physicians and Apothecaries; Of my Comrade, Hans Ulrich Krafft of Ulm's, hard Imprisonment. Of the great Danger that I was in, in the two Towns of Aleppo and Tripoli. Of the murdering of some Merchants, and what else did happen when I was there.

AT my return to Aleppo, where my Business obliged me to stay a while, I came to understand, that du∣ring my absence, several Italians and French-men, were in their Sickness but very slightly served by the Jews their Physicians; wherefore I did not only soon re∣cover my former Acquaintance and Practice by them, but might have also stept into great Business with the Turks, for I was presently so well known, that I had much to do to excuse my self with Discretion to get off of them, that I might escape their Anger and Dis∣pleasure, which I must have got, if I had served them never so faithfully, which I knew several had before me found by experience. Wherefore at the instance of se∣veral good Friends, I only cured two great Persons, whereof one was a Georgian, and at that time Sangiack of Jerusalem, which were very well pleased with me, and requited me accordingly. The Physicians general∣ly in these Parts, agree before hand for the Cure with their Patients, for a certainty, according to the Condi∣tion of the Patient, and his Distemper, and have se∣curity for their Money, but yet it is not paid to them, before the Patient is cured. They have a great many Physicians, but they are very unskilful, chiefly the Turks which know none but their own Language, and so cannot read the Authors of Physick that have writ in another Language, as the Jews can. But seeing that the Jews are very much addicted to Covetousness, they

endeavour rather to promote their own Interest, than that of their Patients; so that the Turks are but slightly provided with Physicians, and therefore rather die like Flies, than take advise of their Physicians, chiefly of the Jews, which are not contented with a small Reward; to this add also that the Turks never put any Confi∣dence in the Jews, and esteem their Counsel but little; and besides, they believe that God hath already pre-or∣dained every one his Death, so that he that is born to be drowned cannot be hanged. And besides all this, the Jews do not stick close to them in time of ne∣cessity, but fly presently, and first of all in time of Sick∣ness (which certainly happens once in Seven Years, if not in Five or sooner) just like Hirelings, as they have sufficiently experienced in the last Plague in the Year 72, with the loss of several Persons of Worth and Quality; chiefly among the rest a Turkish Pay-Master, by them called Daftedar, and another Eminent Turk, and their own Sons, which both of them (although this proferr'd to lay 3000 Duckets, and the other 10000, into the Hands of a third Person) yet were neglected and lest by their Physicians and died. It is very much in use a∣mong them, that if any body doth find himself not well, another puts his Arms cross before him, and so graspeth him about his Back, and lifteth him up, and sets him down again, and shaketh him several times, just as they use to do Sacks with Corn, to make them lie the closer and to hold the more. As the Physicians are, so are also the Apothecaries, where you find nothing of any great Compositions, nor purging Electuaries, as Elect. Diacatholicon, Diaphoenicon, &c. (although they have the best Ingredients thereof, for we have them all sent from them) except they be sent to them from Marseilles or Venice, &c. If you have occasion for any Herbs, Roots or Seeds, &c. you must go your self, not without great trouble and losing of time, and find them either in the Fields, or else at the Grocers and other Shop-keepers. Among the rest of the things they had, I soon knew the Rob Ribes by its ancient Name and pleasant sourish Taste, whereof they make a great quantity in this place, and send it further into other Countries, but chiefly to

the Turkish Emperour; wherefore in the Easter Week they had already gathered several Sacks full of the Stalks of the true Ribes of the Arabians (which are hairy, al∣most two Foot long, and of the thickness of an Inch, of a greenish colour, and underneath, as also Serapio mentioneth, reddish,) from the Mount Libanus, and brought it to the Cadi to make Rob of it for him. I saw them lie in his Court-yard, and several of them were given me to taste, and to take away with me. What Herbs I found at my return else, because there are but a few of them, therefore I have put them among the rest here-above in a peculiar Chapter. I saw there se∣veral strange Birds, and among others some of a deli∣cate green and blue colour, which were about the big∣ness of our Nut-crackers, by them called Sucuruck, and by others Alsecrach. I also found their Alhabari, which are not unlike our Peacocks, and almost as big, and could not fly much. Of four-footed Beasts, I saw seve∣veral, and among them some Civet-Cats, which were brought thither in Caravans, from remote Parts and the Indies. In the Fundique of the Consul of the Venetians, I saw a very sharp sighted one like unto a Lynx, exactly of the shape of a Cat, so that it was not easily distinguished from it, save only in its bigness (for it is much higher and slimmer). This is a very wild and fierce Beasts, so that his Keeper himself was afraid of it. It once got loose, and got through the Yard below into an Apothecaries Shop, wherein he had just then put a great many Glasses that were sent him from Venice, whereof it broke the greatest part before it could be taken again. When I was there, a young Rhinoceros was carried through the Town to Constantinople. It came from the most Eastern Parts, and had killed above 20 Men before they could take it. They also lead daily some Lions about the Town in small Chains, which have small Bells before, that every body may take the sooner Notice of them; they are so tame, that their Keepers sometimes wrastle with them in open Places, neither do they easily grow wild, except they should see Sheep, then their Keepers have enough to do to keep them off, and to appease them. Without in the Fields in high

and bushy Places, are sometimes found Chamelions, which are somewhat bigger than our green Lizards, but a great deal leaner and higher upon their Legs; they walk very slowly and lazily, they live a great while with∣out Meat like the Serpents, and are a very ugly Crea∣ture. If we put it upon a coloured red, yellow, or black Cloth, it hath by degrees changed its natural green Co∣lour into the same that the Cloth was of.

Having ended my Business I had, and in the mean time received a Letter from my Comrades that were at Tripoli, I parted from thence according to their desire, and came on the 5th. of May, Anno 75, to them in Tri∣poli. After some Days arrived also with some Goods, one of their chiefest Carriers, which they call Mokeri, which swore to me by his Head, that is, he affirmed upon his Faith and Reputation, that the Sub-Bashaw of Aleppo, when he was departing from thence, had sent his Bailiffs to my Lodgings to apprehend me, and to fling me into the publick Turkish Gaol, because they were very well assured, that when I was on the Hills (where they had seen me look for Plants) I had observed the Situation of the Town, and all the Country very diligently, that I might, when I should have an opportunity, betray them to their Enemies, and shew them the best way to take it. But all this was contri∣ved that they might have an opportunity to take an A∣varia on me, as the Merchants call it there in these Countries, that is to say, they would accuse me falsly to make me punishable, that they might get a sum of Money out of me. And the Carrier also really believed, for as much as he heard of them, that they would not have let me come off for less than 200 Saraffi or Duc∣kets, one whereof maketh two of their Gilders. Thanks be to our Lord God, who hath delivered me from their unjust Accusations and Contrivances, and brought me safe to this place. At my arrival at Tripoli, when I expected to live securely and quietly, and thought that I was passed all danger, I fell notwithstanding all this into a∣nother; for when my Comrades, and with them also Hans Ʋlrich Krafft (yet without any transgression) were flung into the Turkish Gaol, by the Contrivances

of some Turks, the same Rogues had also a mind to con∣trive something against me, to bring me in also. But the French Vice-Consul, Andrew Bianchi, who was my very good Patron, took my Part, in so much that he did recover my Liberty by the Turks, in spite of my Accusers and not only got me Licence to walk freely without molestation in and about the City where-ever I pleased, but did also procure me a free and safe Ac∣cess to my Comrades, to see them in Prison as often as I pleased. Into the Prison wherein they were kept, I must always go through three small and low Doors, which the Keepers did always very freely and without any grumbling open unto me, to go in or out, and some∣times I have staid there all Night with them. I was al∣ways in very great hopes that God Almighty would have ordered it so, that their Adversaries might have a∣greed with them, so that I and my dear Friend whom I loved as my own Brother, Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, might have been returned home again with Joy. But it pleased God to order it other ways, for the Differences grew the longer the more difficult, and were so long produced, that this Young Gentleman, particularly Hans Ʋlrich, was kept there in this hard Imprisonment very near three Years. To tell all that he suffered and endured there, would be too long here; only this I cannot omit to tell you, that he did endure and conquer all these Troubles and Adversities (as I did see my self) with such a Cou∣rage, Patience and good Conduct, that notwithstanding all these (although he was almost left quite Comfortless) he was rather fit to comfort others than to be comforted. When I went thus in and out to them, I observed very well that the Turks have very great Compassion on poor distressed Prisoners, and are very free to give them Alms, and a Man used to come in daily with Bread or boiled Meat, as Rice, and other sorts of boiled Corn, chiefly on Feast-Days after the Afternoons Lecture was over, and when he distributed them, he did also always as he went by, fling in for each of them a little Loaf (very like unto them they Bake in Lent in our Country) into their Apartment before them upon the Ground, wherewith they must make shift, except they could live

of their own means, or get something by their Hand-labour (whereof there was a good many that did) to maintain themselves. These Alms the Turks give ra∣ther freely, without being ask'd for it, for they believe that God is better pleased with that which they give freely, than that which is begged of them. Wherefore they have very few or no Beggars in their Towns, which beg Alms as they do in our Country. During my stay at Tripoli, I did at the request of the Consul, live in his Fundique, who entertained me very honourably, that I might give Attendance, and if any of the Merchants or Sea-men, should happen to be sick, I might use my best endeavour to cure them. So I did in the space of three Months, cure, only in our Fundique, above Forty Men of all sorts of Distempers, viz. malignant Fevers, violent Gripings of the Guts, &c. which generally befell them that were lately arrived, and were not yet acquainted with the Air and Diet of the Country. There happened in these Days, a miserable cruel Case, that some (among whom were Five Italians and One French-man) did ar∣rive at Tripoli, which made themselves soon ready to go from thence further to Aleppo, with their Merchandices to sell there. Upon the Road they left their Caravan too far behind them, and met with some Horse-men, which spoke to them, and desired them that they would halt at the Command of their Master the Sub-Bashaw, and dismount, and go into the next Camp (which I found very desolate and ruined when I went by for∣merly) to stay there until he came to them, which would not be long, for he had something to say to them; the Merchants obeyed them readily, fearing that if they should not, they would be punished severely by the Sub-Bashaw for their Disobedience. After they were gone into the Camp, the Murderers immediately fell upon them, Shooting and Striking at them, until they killed them all at last, then they buried them in the Ground, mounted their Horses and rode away. Af∣ter these Murderers thought they were very secure, one of these Rogues (which were said to be Arabians) met one of the Mockeri or Carriers of the same Caravan, he knew the Horse immediately, and perceiving it to be

bloody, his Heart gave him that it was not right, where∣fore he made haste up to him, and thrust his bended Bagonet into his side, and took him Prisoner, and car∣ried him to Aleppo, where he was (as I did hear after∣wards) having confessed the Fact when he was upon the Torture, executed for it. They did also seek for the rest, but did apprehend none of them in the time of my staying. The Sultan else taketh great Care to keep the Roads safe and free from High-way Men, that Trading may go on without hinderance. Yet sometimes there are some of the great ones, and Men of Note, that put others upon it for gain's sake, so that one must be very careful in these Countries. It is not long ago when we had News, that not far off the Christians had taken some Ships from the Turks, and carried them off, and also formerly in the beginning of July of the last Year, they lost some more, and as I am informed, among them were Four great ones, Three Fliboats, and Two other, that were taken by Six Gallies of the Christians, which made the Turks mightily discontented; where∣fore the Emperour sends out many Gallies into seve∣ral places, chiefly to Rhodes, to cross the Seas up and down to keep them clear from Pirates, and to hinder them from making Incursions or Descents upon him. These come sometimes into this Port, but our Mer∣chants and the Masters of our Ships do not care for their arrival, for they are forced to present them with Cloths, Woollen Cloaths, Money, &c. if they will re∣main in Favour with them.

CHAP. XII.

Of the large and high Mount of Libanus, its Inhabitants and strange Plants that are found there.

WHen I stayed with the Consul at Tripoli, and had not a few of his in cure, in his Fundique, some others of other Nations did sometimes between

whiles desire my Assistance and Advice, and among the rest, an Eminent Patriarch of the Maronites, which reckon themselves to be Christians, and are called so from the Heretick Maro to this Day. This did live in the Mount of Libanus, and was carried down (although he had a whole Day's Journey to Tripoli, and was af∣flicted with that painful Distemper the Gout very se∣verely) to be cured by me. After some Days when he was pretty well recovered again, so that he intended to return home, he spoke to some of us in our Fundique, that we would be pleased to conduct him up the Hill home again, which was agreed unto very readily, con∣sidering that this Mountain is the most Famous in all the Country of Syria, whereof the Holy Scripture maketh several times mention, speaking of its great Height and Famous Rivers (of which Jordan is one) of its sweet smelling Plants, and pleasantly tasted Fruits; and also because there is a great many strange Plants to be found. So we rode along with the Patriarch (who had no little reason to be afraid of the Turks clandestine Assault) with all possible diligence, and came immediately from the Town upon the heights of the Promontories of the Mount Libanus, which were very Fruitful at the Top, and had many pleasant plain Fields, which extended themselves for three Leagues to the high Mount, so that this was a very pleasant Road, where we saw sometimes on one side, delicate Vineyards, then on the other, fruitful Fields sowed with Barley, white Indian Millet, &c. After this we came to plea∣sant Woods, where sweet singing Birds let them∣selves be heard, and recreated us; sometimes we saw some Hares and some Deer, so that we could not but fansie that we went through thick and dark Woods. When we came out of them, and were very near unto the Mountain, there lay some small Villages before it, and we went to one of them, and very near unto it in a green shady Place we sate down, and refreshed our selves with some Victuals, which we had taken along with us, before we began to go up the Mountain.

The Patriarch was very merry with us, and presented us with some Venice-Bottles of his Wine, whereof we

drank a good deal, for it was so pleasant that I must confess that I never in all my Life drank any like it. Soon after we broke up again, with an Intention to reach his Monastery that Night, called our Ladies, which lieth on the middle of the Mountain as we so travelled towards the Top thereof; in the beginning we came in∣to a narrow, and rough Valley, which had on both sides very steep Walls, wherewith it was enclosed, of a vast Height, chiefly at our left Hand, and yet towards the Top there were several Caves within them, wherein Christians live, whereof we saw a great many that ap∣peared so near to the edges as they went about, that we that travelled underneath had much to do to keep us from being giddy. In that place (where from the Height one may plainly see the whole Neighbourhood to the very Seas, as if it was a Specula, such as the An∣cients used to have) is always a strong Watch kept by the Inhabitants of these Mountains (because they are not under the Jurisdiction of the Turks, as others are, nor in any League with them) to hinder the Turks from making Incursions upon them. When we went fur∣ther, and got over some little Hills, we came out of this narrow Place into wide Meadows, Pastures, Corn fields, and to some fruitful Vineyards: Then again into narrow and deep rocky Roads where we had enough to do to climb over: And afterwards again into pleasant Groves, by delightful Rivolets that arose from Springs that made so sweet a Noise, that those Mountains are therefore ad∣mired and commended, chiefly by King Solomon in the 4th Chapter of his Song, verse 15th in Comparison, where he mentioneth the Streams from Lebanon, which make Damascus one of the most pleasant and delicious Places in the World.

On this Mount grow here and there, besides ordinary Trees and Bushes, thick shrubby Vines, Zizipha alba & rutila, Poplars, two kinds of Dwarf-Cedars with point∣ed and obtuse Leaves, Eupatorium Mesuae, Absinthium Ponticum, Elaeagni Math. by the Inhabitants called Sei∣sesun; and wild Horn-beams, a peculiar sort of Willows, Phyllireas, Styrax-Trees, the fragrant Gum whereof is to be found in Apothecaries Shops: But chiefly, and in

the greatest Number were the Maple-Trees, which are large, big, high, and expand themselves very much with their Branches. After we had rested our selves, and were a little refreshed underneath these, our Labour began again, to climb up these high and steep Steps. When we were thus a climbing, some Country-People (that we saw up so high before) came out of their Caves down to us, with Muggs full of Wine, which they pre∣sented first to their Master the Patriarch that was on Horse-back, receiving him with a great deal of Reve∣rence (bowing themselves down to his Feet) and loving Kindness, and afterwards they did detain us also, and presented each of us with a Mug of Wine, to bid us welcome, which I and the rest received very willingly, but having pretty well heated my self with going, I at that time loved spring-water with Bread dipt in it very well, I only tasted a little of it. After we were got up these Stairs, a great many more came running to present their Master with Chickens, Pullets and other Poultry, which his Man took and carried it up with them. Then the ways were pretty good, and much straighter so that we went on apace, until at length we came to the Monastery, which we could not see before we came just upon it. Just before it without is a most incomparable copious Spring, that sloweth with delicate Water, which is worthy to be often visited.

This Monastery (which is not extraordinarily built) lieth toward the left, almost in the middle of the Moun∣tain under a great Rock, which doth so cover and pre∣serve it, that it cannot easily receive any harm from a∣bove. At our Arrival the Monks came immediately, whereof I saw no more but Ten, and received us very kindly, and shewed us presently our Lodging, which because they had no Chambers to spare, was an arched Chapel, that we might know whither to repair: Yet we kept more upon the Top of the House (which was like others covered with Plaister) which was the deli∣catest and pleasantest Place of all the Buildings, where we could see the Situation of the snowy Hill towards the East above the Cedars, which was a very pleasant sight, and also below us several other Hills, whereon they feed

their Cattle, together with the deep and dark Valley: And, the Monastery being but small, so that they had not much room in it, we also supp'd there in the open Air, with the Patriarch and some of his Fraternity, on a long Table. They treated us very well, and gave us some white-wine to drink (which was better than that we drunk on the Hill) in Venice Glasses, the like whereof is not to be found neither in Candia nor Cyprus. But they fed, according to their Order, onely upon plain Food as Beans and French-Beans, and the like leguminous Fruit, &c. At Night when they conducted us to our Chambers to go to rest, they shewed us instead of Beds some Straw-Mats, and Tapestry spread upon the Ground in their Church on which we were to lie, and so we did and rested that Night. In the Morning they came very early before break of Day into the Church, when we were still very sleepy, to do their Office, and began immediately to ring two Bells, which made underneath the Rock such a resounding Noise, that it stupified us and made us (chiefly because some of us had heard none in two Years time, and were full of Sleep and but half awake) so dull, that we did not for a good while know where we were, until we came a little to our selves again. Afterwards I heard them with Attention for a good while, and did look into their Books which were written with Arabian Letters: But what Religion they were of, I shall tell you hereafter, when I shall make mention of other Christians.

At break of the Day we made our selves ready to go further up the Hill, to the Height thereof where the Cedars stand, to see them, so that we might come to the Monastery again. Along with us went two Monks to shew us the way; they conducted us back again to the rich Springs of Water, to the Stairs, which were very rough, and so steep that we were often forced to hold our selves by the Bushes, which we could reach at both Sides; but chiefly when we turned on a sudden, of which Turnings they had very many. So we got up higher and higher, with a great deal of Labour, until we came to a little Chapel standing just at the Top of the Stairs, on the Hill. Near to this Chapel is a small Village,

which we went through, and saw spacious Fields well cultivated, so that the Inhabitants of these Mountains, could have no want of Corn, Wine, Flesh or Oil, &c. although their Neighbours should not supply them for Years with any thing: And besides, their Lands are so well secured on the Height, and so locked up, as if they were surrounded with high Walls and deep Ditches: And moreover they are very a stout and warlike-People, very well provided with Bows and Guns, &c. so that their Neighbours cannot easily hurt nor do any Mis∣chief to them; and they are also soon alarmed, which we found, when these two Monks did immediately raise twelve Men well armed, in the furthermost Village to∣wards the snowy Hill, to conduct us safe up to the Cedars of the highest Mount, that their Neighbours the Trusci might not hurt us. But as I understood after∣wards the Trusci are in Confederacy with the Inhabi∣tants of Mount Libanus, so that they need not to fear any harm from them. But they rather did it to frighten us, to get a good Recompence from us that they might rejoice, and treat us the better (as Christians) on our return. So these Twelve went before us and con∣ducted us up to another but very barren and rough Plain, where we found our selves to be upon the highest point of the Mountain, and saw nothing higher but onely a small Hill before us, all covered over with Snow, at the Bottom whereof the high Cedar-Trees were standing, some whereof King Solomon ordered to be cut down to be employed for the use of the building of the Temple of Jerusalem. And although this Hill hath in former Ages been quite covered over with Cedars, yet they are since so decreased, that I could tell no more but Twenty Four that stood round about in a Circle and Two others, the Branches whereof are quite decayed for Age. I also went about in this place to look out for some young ones, but could find none at all. These Trees are green all the Year long, have strong Stems that are several Fathoms about, and are as high as our Firr-Trees. They have very large Twigs that bend the Tree, and make it lean that way, which somewhat spoileth their Straightness. Branches grow up streight, as also do the

Cones thereof, which are large and round, and extend themselves a great length, in so delicate and pleasant, Order and Evenness, as if they were trim'd, and made even with a great deal of Diligence, so that at a Di∣stance, you may see the Tops of them very even to one another. So that one may immediately see at a great Distance, a great Difference between these and other Firr-Trees. They are else very like unto the Larch-Trees chiefly in their Leaves, which are small, and all close together, but stand further asunder upon small brown Shoots, which in their Length and Bigness are like unto them of the Muscus terrestris.

After we had rested awhile underneath the Cedars, and began to be coldish in this windy, snowy and cold place, we began to return to the Monastery again. By the way I saw about the River three sorts of Tragacanth, one whereof I took according to its Shape to be that of the learned Carolus Clusius, which is very like unto the True Tragacantha. The Second is somewhat lower than the First, else it is very like unto it, only it beareth Yellow Flowers, each whereof groweth by its self in round yellowish bags, and several of them stand one above the other on long Stalks. The Third is almost of the same Height, and hath more brown coloured strong Stalks, with white woolly heads of Poterius, whereon you see purple coloured Flowers. I found also by them another Plant, which to be brief, (considering its brown coloured flexible Twigs, and longish fat Leaves▪ is very like unto the Chamaelea, of a very sharp Taste) I think to be the first kind of Sanamu••da of Carolus Clusius. Besides these I saw hereabout two thorny Shrubs, one whereof was with its red coloured Grapes (setting the Leaves aside as far as I remember) very like unto our Oxy∣acantha. The other which was full of Thorns, and had small red purple coloured Flowers, was like into the first kind of Scorpius of Carolus Clusius. Among the Bushes I saw the Scorzonera with yellow Flowers, and also a pretty sort of Tulips with yellow stripes, and not far from it the true Ribes of the Arabians, which I found in Autumn at an ill time, without Flowers or Seeds, only with two Leaves, as if it was just sprung up. The Leaves

thereof are rough and round, as big very near as those of Petasites (called Butterburn in our Language) which grow upon short yet thick Stalks, which are also full of a pleasant sowrish Juice, as well as their Stalks, where∣of chiefly the True Rob Ribes is prepared, as I have seen it my self, and Serapio testifieth. This loveth moist Grounds, hath a strong brown coloured Root, which is pretty long, wrinkly, bended, and of a very unpleasant Taste. On the hight of the Mount I saw more Plants, some whereof I had not time to mind, and others that are not yet known, wherefore I omit (for shortness sake) to say more of them.

The Mountain is very high, so that it may be seen in Cyprus about 200 Italian Miles off; wherefore the Day breaketh later at Tripoli, and not until the Morning Sun appeareth before it: And moreover you find there Snow all Summer long, which they bring down from the Moun∣tains, into the Batzars or Exchanges to sell, to cool their Drink with it chiefly in the Dog days, and fling it in by handfuls. Yet when we were at the Top, we could not see far about, being hindered by some Hills.

After we were come down from the Mountains into the little Village again, our Conductors brought us into a pleasant Garden where their Wives came to us, which brought to us several yet strange sorts of Milk-Meats to eat, and very good Wine to drink, so we sat down in the Grass according to their Fashion, to eat and drink, and to make merry, and spoke to them in the common Arabian Country Language, and what we could not speak out, we made them understand by Signs. After we had dined, we returned them many thanks, for all their Kindness and good Chear, and so we went away. By the way we saw more Plants, viz. the Alyssum of Diosc.; a delicate kind of Cynoglossum. And also near the Stairs some wild Fir-Trees, Polium Montanum, Mar∣rubium Creticum Lobelii, as I judged according to its shape. A delicate yellow Jacea with scaly Heads, and prickles like unto the Spina Solstitialis, which is low, yet it hath a long and strong Root, covered with a gray and hairy Rind, like unto the Victorialis, the Leaves are jag∣ged or laciniated, of an Ashen colour and hairy, as also

the two before mentioned; and another kind of Jacea, with purple coloured Flowers, which is very like unto the yellow one of Lobelius (which I have also found in Provence in France near Aix) saving only the prickles that are about the Heads. Just before we came quite down I found two kinds of Linaria, one whereof (that is of a pretty bitter Taste) puts forth long and slender Stalks from the Root, closely surrounded with a great number of Linaria Leaves, and hath at top one, two or three long scaly Heads, from whence issue small purple coloured Flowers; the other groweth also in Leaves and Stalks almost like unto the first, only they are smaller and tenderer, and hath quite to the top abundance of light and small purple coloured Flowers round about it (as the blue one of our Gardens). At length after a long travelling and climbing, we came just when the Night broke in, down to the Monastery again; after Supper we went strait to rest, that we might be up early again to go for Tripoli. After break of the Day when we had taken our leave of the Patriarch and his Brethren, and made our selves ready for our Journey, we came strait away. By the way we saw several of Arbores Judae, with their red coloured Husks; and also in the Rock a fine Gnapha∣lium, with Ash coloured roundish, Mouse-ear Leaves, and Snow-white double Flowers. As we went on, and were almost come to the House that stood upon the height, whereof we made mention before, these Inhabitants came down again, got before us, stopt us, and would not let us pass until we had drunk with them. Then we went on again, and I found in the deep and dark Valley the right Medium Dioscoridis, and Mindium Rhazis, which I did spie immediately among the Bushes, by its hight and specious purple coloured Flower. This Plant is very like unto the Viola Mariana, of the learned Rem∣pert Dodonus, very stately, so that no great Difference can be found but only in the Leaves, which in this are more carved, like unto those of Plantain, and in the Flowers which are more open, and spread themselves with their long and narrow Leaves, (whereof each hath eight) into a round Circle; the Seeds I saw not because they were not yet ripe, yet I found a greater Austerity in the Root

than in the Seed Vessels. Not far off, I also saw in the Val∣ley a strange Plant, which was of the height of a Cubit, and had whitish and woolly Leaves, like unto our Mullein, only they are less, and grow quite to the Stalk, as those of Tabaco, or of Hyoscyamus Peruvianus, of Rempert Dodon, at the top thereof grow fine purple coloured and white dou∣ble Flowers which stand close together, as those of the yel∣low Amaranth, or in the little Auricula Muris of Fuchsi∣us, so that according to all this, having also fragrant Roots, and like unto those of black Hellebore (which broke be∣cause I pulled it up in haste) as I judged by that part there∣of which still was left to them, I clearly take it to be the true Baccharis of Dioscor. In the Valley further down towards the Water, grew also the Oleander, and the Apocy∣num Repens, which climbeth upon the Trees that stand nigh it, and covereth them so that it hangeth down again at the sides, like the Ephedra of Pliny. After we came out before the Mountain, there appeareth the Italian Sphon∣dylium, Visnagia, &c. there we went into the next Village, and looked after the Victuals we had left, to refresh our selves. When we came from thence I found the black Cha∣maeleon with its handsome blue coloured Tops; Origanum, Onites, Lycium called also Zaroa by the Inhabitants, the second Acacia with trefoil Leaves, and when we came near to Tripoli, to the old and high Rivolet, between the Moun∣tains, I found the second Tragoriganum of Carol. Clusius Ceterach and low St. John's Wort, a fine Chamaedrys, &c. but above all, a Thorn-bush, about the height of a Cubit, very thick of Twigs and Stalks, so that some of them lie upon the Ground: The Stalks (whereof many grow out of a Root of a drying quality, and somewhat bitter) are surrounded with a tender gray Rind, underneath which is another reddish one to be found. Its long tender Leaves that grow one against the other (which are of the colour of Ashes underneath, and green above) are very like unto the Leaves of our Sanguisorba; between them at the Top or the Crown sprout out many Thorns, the biggest where∣of divide themselves at the Top into other less ones in very good order, so that some point down, and some up∣wards, and others towards the sides, and some thereof sprout out further before the rest, which sprout our early in the Spring, and bear small greenish coloured starry

Flowers; from underneath them grow out small soft Berries of a whitish Colour, and some reddish, which are so close together, and stand in their Ranks, (at the Top whereof the Flower is still plainly to be seen) like unto our Currans. The Seeds thereof I have raised in the famous Garden of the Generous and eminent Hans Heinrich Herwarts, Alderman of this Place, very easily and they grew up until they were ready to blow: But as other Outlandish Plants do seldom endure our Climate, so did this also die the next Winter. It is called by the Inhabitants Bellen. But I am of Opinion, according to its shape, (for of its Virtue and Use, I can say nothing because I never tried it) that it is the Hippophië of Dioscor. so long until others give me a better instruction. Not far from hence I found on the Height, near to the Town in a rough place, another fine Plant, not unlike unto our Gingidium, only that it hath less Fenil Leaves and beareth a roundish Seed, with many smooth Wings hanging round about it, which close themselves almost into a Knot together, with its tender Leaves, which sprout out underneath the Crown, like unto the black Coriander: Which induced me to enquire after it, more narrowly what to call it, and being I found that it had a small white Root, tender Leaves, and a bitterer Taste than our wild Parsnip, and also in the middle of the Crown a blew∣ish Knob, I cannot judge it but to be the true Gingidium of Dioscor. From thence we soon went down the Stairs again, and came by some Turkish burying-Places, and some wild Figg-Trees, by them called Mumeitz (where∣of a great many are growing in these Grounds) into the Town of Tripoli.

Soon after an honest and skillful Botanist, to whom I came to inquire after Plants, told me that a great many more were to be found thereabout. Wherefore I went out again to look for them, and to get them also. So I found first upon the Height near the Vineyards a Cassia Monspeliensium, which be called Mackmudi and Mack∣misi, and the Berries thereof Habel Mickenes. But whe∣ther this is to be taken for the Avacsium Rhasis, or no I cannot certainly affirm. This is so common in these places that they make Brooms of its Twigs. Moreover I found in the Vineyards another stately fine and strange

Plant, which was about two Cubits high, and had whi∣tish, woolly, and long, sharp pointed Leaves, which are set round with small prickles about the edges, and had on each side towards the Stalk little Ears, as our Sorrel and Spinage have: It is of a bitter Taste, and at the Top there∣of on long Stalks grow many smooth Hands which in their bigness and Flowers are very like unto the yellow Jacea.

But that I may not be too tedious (it being not my In∣tention to treat here of every one at length) I will men∣tion but one more before I conclude, which I found just at the Spouts where in Rainy Weather the Water runs down from the Mount of Libanus; which is the true white Behen of the Arabians, and is still to this Day called Behmen-ahied, as the red is called Behmen-ackmar, which also doth not stand far off, as my Friend that ex∣perienced Botanist hath informed me. But because I was daily ready to go on Ship board, to come home again, I had not time to obtain it; this was at that time almost decayed, yet I found still some green Leaves about it, so that by all appearance, it doth endure the Winter, and so shoots out a new by degrees, which grow up yearly a∣gain instead of the old ones, these put forth long great and pointed Leaves, as big, sharp and as thick as a Leafe of a Pear-Tree; they have partly under∣neath on the Stalks four much less, which stand two and two against one another; and one also finds out a few of them on round Stalks (many whereof grow out of the same Root, about the height of a Cubit) where the up∣permost stick quite close to it, as you may see on the Smyrnium Creticum; On the Top it puts forth oblong scaly yellow Buttons, each of them on their peculiar Stalk, from whence issue Flowers of the same colour; it hath a very long Root, which at the Top shoots out great Branches, that grow so thick, that in time they may be separated and transplanted; but else they have but very few Fibers, so that they rather are smooth, and also almost as tough and pliable as Liquorish Root, to which it is very like in its bigness and colour, only it is some∣what whiter, and not so strait. But why Avicen maketh mention also of its wrinkles, I am of Opinion that he rather speaketh of the greater sort, which is more wrinkly and rougher, and also for above a Span long, seem to be

shrunk of Age and turned woody, or decayed and dried up, although within they are still juicy, limber, and have kept their natural colour. I was also informed of others, viz. of the Costus Syriacus, which they still know by the Name of Chast, and is found about Antiochia: And not far off from thence is also found the Nux vomica as some esteem them, by the Inhabitants called Cutschula; which together with a great many other Famous ones I might have obtained, if I could have had a true, faithful and experienced Guide; but for want of such a one, and also because I could stay no longer, I was forced to leave them behind, to be hereafter found out by such that shall un∣dertake the like Journies.

CHAP. XIII.

Cunning and deceitful Stratagems of the Grand Turk against the Inhabitants of Mount Li∣banus the Trusci, and Maronites: And how he made War with them, and what Damage they sustained by it.

HAving here before made mention of the Maronites and Trusci their Neighbours and Allies, I cannot but must also go further, and briefly relate, how the Turk did make War against them (as to whom they are not yet quite subjected) during the time of my staying in these Countries. But from whence this War did first arise, and had its beginning, I was thus informed, that it broke out about one of their Governours, which lived then for a little time at Damascus. For when the Grand Signior did observe that these People did daily grow in Number and Strength, he considered, that if he should let them go on so, and neglect to curb them in time, they might probably after a while grow too Potent for him; wherefore he thought it requisite, to study and make it his Business to find out ways and means to subdue them and to reduce them under his Power. In order thereunto,

he apprehended the Governour that lived then in Dama∣scus, and put him into Prison, and at length took away his Life unjustly under pretence as if he had endeavoured to raise a Rebellion; not doubting but that when he had removed their Head, he might the easier subdue and re∣duce these People. But when the Trusci and Maronites understood this cruel and abominable Fact, not without Grief and Trouble, they were not only not at all discoura∣ged from resisting so Great and Formidable an Enemy, but rather took new Courage that was promoted by the great Anger this detestable Fact put them into, so that they united themselves the firmer, and did unanimously re∣solve to oppose him with all their Might and Power, and to stand by their ancient Liberty; and accordingly they began immediately to Arm themselves, to Fortifie their Villages, and chiefly their Passes, and to provide them∣selves with Guns, Bows and Arrows, and all other things necessary for their Defence, so that in case of Necessity they might be ready to resist their Enemies, being such a kind, that kept neither Faith nor Promises, which they had often experienced to their great Grief and Losses. So that in all probability it was like to be a War, which also broke out with great Violence within a little time after. But because I went for Bagdet at the same time (where in former Years the Potent Caliphi did reside) I did hear no more of it in all my Journey until at my return, when my Comrade Hans Ʋlrich Krafft of Ʋlm, then Prisoner in Tripoli, did relate it to me, so as it was reported to him by Credible Hands; who told me that the Trusci are very numerous, that they were divided into several Regi∣ments, of several colours, and that those that live in the middle of the high Mountains were the most nume∣rous of them all, that they live in a Country that is very well secured and surrounded, so that they need not, nor will not be subject either to the Turks or any other Po∣tentate. They are Warlike People, for the generality good Gunners, that make their own Guns and any o∣ther sorts of Arms, &c. they have plenty of Corn, Oyl, Wine, good Meat and good Fruit, so that they need not any Assistance of Strangers. They chiefly deal in Silk, whereof they wind (from Silkworms) about 100 Ro∣tulas in a Year (which is about 450 Hundred weights)

to send from thence into other Countries. These have their white Colours, and their Confederates that live on the outward Hill toward the Sea, at Baruti near Tripoli, have red ones, and have also their Colonel which they call Ermin Mackfur, which also those that belong unto the white Colours acknowledge to be theirs, as well as their own (which was lately murdered.) This because he could not entrench himself as well as the other Trusci on the Hill, agreed with the Great Sultan, and made Peace, upon this account, that if he would let him live peace∣ably and quietly, he would help him to Protect the Country, and pay unto him yearly the accustomed Tri∣bute, but if the Grand Signior would not be pleased with this proferr, he would join the rest and assist them. The Emperour accepted of this, and did not only make this Ermin Mackfur Lord of all Baruti and Seide, called Sidon, but did also procure him a great and plentifull Yearly Revenue out of these Countries; thinking thus to oblige him, to help him with his Trusci to subdue the others, not doubting but that he might easily overcome these, when once the others on the Mountains were killed. But they would not get up the Hill, but did proferr to the Turks, that if their Men and the Moors would go up, they would be ready in the Valley about Baruti, to cut off all that should fall into their hands. This Answer they gave to the Sultan, only for Fashion's sake, for no Truscus killeth the other. When the Sultan saw that they would not bite one another, and that he was not like to obtain any great matter from the Colonel, he did notwithstanding send up the Bashaw, of Damascus with Six other Bashaws and Seventeen Sangiacks about Two Hundred Thousand strong, both Foot and Horse well Armed, to subdue the before-mentioned Trusci which were about Sixty Thousand strong, to burn, de∣molish and destroy their Towns, Villages, Houses and Plantations. After they were come up to the Ascent Two Days Journey from Damascus, they found the Roads so steep that no body could pass them on Horse∣back, for there was nothing to be seen but rough and sharp-pointed Rocks. So they agreed to dismount, and to go up to them on Foot, and so they took presently Six or Seven Villages (whereof there is said to be Twenty

Seven in all) but they found nothing in them but some Women and Children and very few Men (the rest were got upon the Hills where they had intrenched themselves) which were all cut in pieces, and the Villages burnt.

The Turks and Moors thought themselves obliged, ac∣cording to their Emperours Command, to go on further, so they endeavoured and got up higher, but could not do any more harm to the Trusci, being hindered by the bad ways: But on the contrary the Trusci met them some∣times and poured their Shot upon them from all Sides, be∣fore they were aware of it, so that they were but in an ill Condition. Then when the Turks would pursue these Men, they were too quick for them, as being born and bred in these Mountains; so they did only laugh at them, and bid them kiss their Breeches: So the Turks (partly for want of Provision, partly being tired by the steep Roads) were sometimes forced, not without great damage and loss of their Men, to retire again to take better Mea∣sures. Sometimes also the Trusci would stand between the Rocks covered and when they found any of their Enemies appear, chiefly those that endeavoured to climb up the Rocks, they would all of a sudden shoot among them as among a Flock of Pigeons, so that many of them did precipitate themselves and broke their Necks. They would also sometimes decoy the Turks into a good Road and after Eight or Ten Thousand of them were passed, they would with Six Thousand Trusci fall in the Rear of them, to drive them up higher, where others soon did appear that came down upon them: so they surrounded them some∣times, and received them so warmly, that but very few of them came back again to tell what was become of the rest. After this War had continued for about two Months, the Bashaw at last was forced to make a shameful Re∣treat with the Remainder of his Forces, and that so much the sooner because the Winter began to approach, so that it was impossible to endure the Frost and Snow, which occasioned many to die, and the chiefest of them came home sick.

The Trusci pretend to be Christians, and the Posterity of those that some Years ago by Might and Strength re∣covered the Holy Land; so that still to this Day, they have a great Affection for Christians, which those that

travel among them to buy Silks can testifie, whom they treat and entertain very civilly with good Meat and good Wine, yet refuse to take any Money for it: And say, That what God hath given them they are bound to di∣stribute among us Christians. But they hate Mahome∣tans and Jews, and keep very good Intelligence with the Christians of this Country. Yet they themselves are nei∣ther Christians, Turks, Moors nor Jews: For they do not go to Mass, nor any other publick Worship of God: They cry out sometimes to Heaven that God would be pleased to protect them. They also believe, according to the Opinion of Pythagoras, that the Souls of the de∣ceased according to their Merits, transmigrate from one Body into another; That the Soul of a pious Man goeth into a new-born Child, and that of an ill Man into the Body of a Dog or other wild Beast; chiefly if he hath lived very ill. As they believe so they live also. Among them they marry to their nearest Relations, the Brother to his Sister, the Son to his Mother, the Father to the Daughter, and they lie all together at Night, but they will not marry into a strange Family. The Father or the Mother says, Seeing that God hath given me this Child as a Seed unto me, why should I throw it away upon a Stranger? or else, I have a Garden, and God giveth me Flowers in it, is it not reasonable, that I should enjoy them rather than a Stranger? &c. they make use of a great many of these and the like Expressions. They also keep a Yearly Feast with their Wives which then they change one with the other as they please. Else they are not given to stealing, killing, or any such like Crimes (be∣cause they want for nothing) but if any be taken that hath thus transgressed he is executed immediately. So they live in Peace together, and care not for any other Monarch.

The End of the Second Part.

Notes

• * 1.1

  I guess them rather to have been Cormorants; no Ea∣gles having long Necks.
• * 1.2

  Rauwolff was here too credulous and facil to suffer himself to be abused and im∣posed upon by these Relaters; for that there neither are, nor ever were any Animals with more Heads than one naturally, I do confidently affirm.
• * 1.3

  Too soon, for that there are no such Creatures in the World as either Uni∣corn or Griffin, I am as sure as I can be of a Ne∣gative. Nay, Dr. Brown hath well demonstrated, that there cannot be such a Creature as the common Pictures of him represent the Unicorn. I cannot again but wonder as the credulity of so curi∣ous and inquisitive a Man as Rauwolff, in believing the idle Stories of such a vain and lying Fellow.