A collection of curious travels & voyages in two tomes ... / by John Ray ...

CHAP. IX.

Which way I came in my return from Bag∣det through Assyria, the Confines of Per∣sia, and the Province of the Curters, to the Town Carcuch, Capril, &c. and at length to the River Tigris, to Mossel, that Famous Town which was formerly called Nineve.

WHen hindered in my Travels, for several weighty Reasons, I was forced to go back again; I looked up my Goods, as I was advised by my good Friend, the Christian, (whereof I made men∣tion here before) and fitted my self for my Journey. I got for my Companions three Jews, one whereof came down the Euphrates with me, the others came

from Ormutz, (for I could get no others) to travel with me to Aleppo. We set out on the 16th of De∣cember of the 74th. Year, for Carcuch distant Six Days Journey, in the Confines of Media, on the other side of the River Tigris, which is still called by them in their Language Hidekel. By the way we first saw some well-tilled Fields, and above us on the River Tigris some Villages, so that I could not but think I should meet with a Country that had plenty of Corn, Must and Honey, &c. as it was commended by the the Arch-koob bearer of the King of Assyria, and com∣pared even with the Land of Promise, but the further we went, the greater grew the Wildernesses, so that we were forced to lodge all Night in the Fields.

The next Morning there appeared a great way off more little Villages belonging to the King of Persia: But we went on through the Desarts (and my Fellow Travellers told me that they extend themselves to Persia and Media) where we lost our way, and came in the Evening into a Bog which hindered us so much, that I (because their Sabbath began, whereon according to their Laws they must not travel) was forced to stay there, with them, all Night long in it, and also the next Day, in great Showers of Rain, not without great Inconveniency and Trouble. During our staying there I look'd about me for some Plants; but found none because they did but first begin to sprout, but in the moist Places some wild Galengal with great round Roots by the Inhabitants called Soedt, and by both La∣tines and Grecians, Cyperus.

The 19th Day, after we were, not without trouble, got out of the Mire, our way extended its self still further through desolate Places and Desarts. I thought of Julian that impious Roman Emperour, and of his Army, which when it went against the Persians, and was very numerous, over the River Tigris near to Ctesiphon, he was by an Ancient Persian that was a Pri∣soner, decoyed into these Desarts, where he was bea∣ten and routed by the Persians. In this great Fight when the Emperour himself was mortally wounded, he took up (as Nicephorus and Eusebius say) a hand∣full

of Blood and flung into the Air, yielded the Vi∣ctory and said, Then Galilean (so he called Christ in whom he at first believed, and afterwards denied and persecuted) thou hast beaten and conquered me. After we had lived for several Days very hardly in the De∣sarts, and spent our time in Misery, we came on the 20th by Scherb a Village, over an Ascent, into ano∣ther more fruitful and well tilled Country, situated on the Confines of Persia, and for the most part inha∣bited by them, which we could conjecture by the com∣mon Language. Now though travelling through the Confines, uses commonly to be very dangerous, yet (I thank God) we met with none, so that we without any Stop or Hinderance, reached that Night, the 21st. of December, to Schilb, a curious Village, where we rested all Night and refreshed our selves.

From thence we went on through large and fruitful Valleys, but I found nothing (for it was but just at the beginning of plowing time) that was worthy to be mentioned, for the Plants did but just begin to sprout; we had by the way several Villages, and so we had better opportunity to buy Provision. The Three and Twentieth at Night we came to one where we could buy near one hundred Eggs for Two pence.

The next Day we got up early again, and saw be∣fore us the high Mountain Tauri all covered with Snow (which extendeth its self a great way from North and West to the Eastward) at a great Distance. We went on apace, and advanced to Tauk early in good time, and before their Sabbath began again. This Town is not very strong and lieth on a Plain. We went into a Camp without it, and rested there all the Sabbath. After Sun-set, when it began to grow dark, they de∣sired of me to light a Candle. I remembred then imme∣diately, that they could not do it themselves▪ being for∣bid by Law, as you may find in the 35th Chapter of Exodus, where you may see that they must kindle no Fire in any of their Habitations, wherefore they fur∣nish themselves the Day before with all sorts of Pro∣visions and Necessaries, that they may not need to do any Labour on the Sabbath, and yet may not want.

When these Jews say their Prayers, they use the same Ceremonies as the Christians and Heathens in the Ea∣stern Parts do: For first they lift up their Hands, then they bow down forwards with their whole Body, and at last they kneel down and kiss the Ground. These Jews bragg'd continually of their Patriarchs, and made mention of the Laws; but of the Ten Commandments they knew nothing, wherefore I took an Occasion to repeat them before them in the Portugal Language (which is very much spoke in the Indies) as well as I could, and they did admire when they heard them, how I came to know them. But when I began to speak of Christ and his Office, they bursted out into such Blas∣phemies, that I was glad to say no more, but hold my Tongue.

Not far off from Tauk, we saw a very strong Ca∣stle, near unto a Wood, that is guarded by a Turkish Garrison: This is situated in the Province of the Cur∣ters, which beginneth there, and lieth between Me∣dia and Mesopotamia all along the River Tigris and reacheth to Armenia. These Curters, which are almost all Nestorians, speak a peculiar Language, which was unknown to my Fellow Travellers, wherefore they could not speak to them in the Persian nor Turkish Language, which is spoke all along from Bagdet through Assyria (in the Confines of two potent Monarchs) to that place. We were therefore forced to desire others that understood both Languages, to be our Interpre∣ters through the Country of the Curters. But whe∣ther this Language did run upon that of their Neigh∣bours the Medians or no, I could not certainly learn; but yet I was informed that the Parthians, Medes and Persians, as peculiar Nations, had their peculiar Languages, as Histories tell us, and we may also per∣fectly see in the Acts of the Apostles the 2d Chapter and the 8th Verse, where it is thus written: And how hear we every Man in our own Tongue, wherein we were born? Parthians, and Medes, and Elamites and the Dwellers in Mesopotamia, &c. all which Peo∣ple almost are Subject unto the Sophi, the mighty King of Persia. The before mentioned Curters were formerly

called Carduchi, and afterwards also Cardueni (as chief∣ly Xenophon testifieth) have had their peculiar Policy and Government. But after many Changes and Wars, they are at length subdued and brought under the Do∣minion of the Turkish Emperour, to whom they are still subject to this Day, and he hath every where his Garrisons in opposition to the Sophi. But what is further to be said of them, chiefly concerning their Religion, shall be hereafter mentioned, when I shall give you an account among other Christians, of those that live in the Temple of Mount Calvaria in Jerusalem.

After the Sabbath of the Jews, my Companions, was over, we went on again, and came the 26th. of De∣cember to Carcuck, a glorious fine City lying in a Plain, in a very fertile Country; at four Miles distance, is ano∣ther that lieth on an ascent, whither we also travel∣led, my Companions having Business in both of them, and so we spent two Days in them, before we were ready to go on again.

The 29th. we travelled through large and dry Heaths, and came at Night to some Tents, which were made of Hair or Hair-cloth, wrought out of Goats and Asses Hair, and fixed in such an Order, that they made Streets and Allies like unto a Market-Town. In one of these we went to lodge with these poor People (that are white Moors, and like unto the Gypsuns in their shape and figure) and to stay there all night long. But whether these People are subject to the Turkish Emperour, or to the King of Persia, or any other, I could not find out by their Cloths, because they all wear the same hereabout, nor could I discern any thing by their Language. To us came a little after some more Travellers, so that we had hardly room to lie down in. These People were very diligent and busy to get us some Meat and Drink, for the Husband went soon out of Doors to gather dry Boughs and Stalks of Herbs (which I could not at that time discern what they were) and brought them to us to boil or dress some Meat with them. The Woman was not idle neither, but brought us Milk and Eggs to eat, so that we wanted for nothing; she made also some Dough for Cakes (which were about a Finger

thick, and about the bigness of a Trencher, as is usual to do in the Wildernesses, and sometimes in Towns also) she laid them on hot Stones, and kept them a turning, and at length she flung the Ashes and Embers over them, and so baked them thoroughly. They were very good to eat, and very savory. This way of baking Cakes is not new, but hath been very usual among the ancients, so we find in Scripture mention made of Bread baked a∣mong the Ashes; the Romans called it, Panes Subcineri∣tios; and so we read in Genesis the 18th. Chapter, of Cakes made upon the Hearth, which Sarah made in haste when the three Men came to see Abraham.

The 30th. we went from thence, and about Noon we came to a Town called Presta, which is chiefly to∣wards the River whereon it lieth, very well fortified, but what the Inhabitants call that River, I do not re∣member, but according to its Situation it must be that which Ptolomy calleth Gorgus, which runs below into the Tiger. In this place they make Floats, which al∣though they are not very big, nor have much Wood in them, yet they have abundance of Bucks and Goats Skins blown up, hung or fixt underneath the bottom, without doubt, by reason that they may load the more upon them, and also because the River is rapid, that they may have the less fear or danger. On these Floats they carry several sorts of Merchandices, but chiefly Fruit, viz. Figs, Almonds, Cibebs, Nuts, Corn, Wine, Soap, &c. a great part whereof goeth further into the Indies.

The last Day of December we travelled on, and came through well tilled Fields about Night into the Town Harpel, which is pretty large, but very pitifully built, and miserably surrounded with Walls, so that it might easily be taken without any great Strength or Loss; there we rested again the next Day being the Sabbath (and on the same Day fell New-Years-Day.) In the mean time I understood that the Turkish Sangiack did a few Days ago condemn and put to execution eight great Malefactors, which made it their Business to Rob and to commit Murder up and down on the High-way, (for there are a great many of these Rogues in this Province)

chiefly on the borders of Armenia, which are very Moun∣tainous, which maketh travelling very dangerous. The Relations and Friends of these Murderers and Robbers did take this very ill, that the Sangiack should execute them, and were resolved to be revenged of him one way or other. In order thereunto they combined and agreed all together, and had every thing ready, and only staid for the word to fall upon him, which would have been done accordingly, if he had not had good In∣telligence of this their Intention, wherefore he went away incognito for Constantinople, to complain to the Turkish Emperour of this their unjust Proceedings, and what they must expect for this, they will know in a short time. This Sangiack, when he found necessity of making his escape, and found that he wanted Mo∣ney (which is very seldom) he took up from an Arme∣nian Merchant (that was very rich, and was arrived there to buy several Merchandices, chiefly Gauls, where∣of grow many in these Parts) 300 Duckets, which put the Merchant into great danger: for when these rebelli∣ous People came to understand it, they took it very ill of him, and threatned him very much, so that he was forced to stay some Days longer for more Com∣pany, that so he might go the safer.

After we had joined him, we went from thence on the 5th. of January in a very handsome Number, for the Merchant alone had about Fifty Camels and Asses, which were only loaden with Gauls, with him, to carry to Carahemit (where he lived) and to send from thence to Aleppo, where they are bought by our Merchants, to be sent into our Country. So we travelled all Day long and also half the Night, without eating or drinking, very fast, and began to rest about Midnight. After we had for the remaining part of the Night hardly refresh∣ed our Beasts and our selves with eating and drinking a little, we broke up again before Day-light, to go on in our way. When we were gone a good way through fruitful and pleasant Vallies, we came betimes to ano∣ther River by Ptolomy called Caprus, which although it is not very broad, yet it is very deep, so that we had much to do to get through, which I found not

without a great detriment to my Plants, which I car∣ried on Horse-back before me.

Soon after Noon a great way off before us, appeared a great Market-Town, Carcuschey, where we arrived by Night, and fixed our Camp without and pretty near to it. This is quite inhabited by Armenians, which we could presently find by the alteration of the Lan∣guage and their Habit. They received us very willingly, and let us want for nothing. After we had staid with them till Night, and refreshed our selves and our Beasts, we broke up again immediately and travelled all Night, which was so dark, that we heard several Caravans that met us, but we could not see them, much less know how strong they were, or from whence they came. At break of Day we came to another much larger Ri∣ver, by the Inhabitants called Kling (if I do not mis∣take) and by Ptolomy, Licus, which hindered us very much in our Day's Journey; for the River being very broad, at least a long Mile, it was very hard to hit exactly the right Ford, and not without great Dan∣ger, which the Curters knew very well, so that we were also in great fear of them. But after some were found in our Company that had often forded that River formerly, we ventured it, went in, and got over (thanks be to God) very safe, only one Ass which went over below us, where the Stream went stronger, was drowned, so that we arrived very early on the 7th. of January to the Tigris again, and went into the Fa∣mous City Mossel, that lieth on this side of the River, over a Bridge made of Boats. This is situated in the Country of the Curters, and so we were forced still to keep our Interpreter. It belongeth to the Turkish Em∣perour, as all the rest hereabout. There are some very good Buildings and Streets in it, and it is pretty large; but very ill provided with Walls and Ditches, as I did observe from the top of our Camp which extended to it. Besides this, I also saw just without the Town a little Hill, that was almost quite dug through, and in∣habited by poor People, where I saw them several times creep in and out as Pismires do in Ant-hills. In this place and thereabout, stood formerly the Potent Town

of Nineve (built by Ashur) which was the Metropolis of Assyria, under the Monarch of the first Monarchy, to the time of Sennacherib and his Sons, and was about three Days Journey in length. So we read that the Pro∣phet Jonas, when at the Command of God, he preached Repentance to them, did go into it one Day's Journey, which the People did hearken willingly unto, and did amend their Lives, but they did not long remain peni∣tent, but turned to their former Iniquity again, where∣fore their Destruction and Ruine, was prognosticated to them by the Prophets Nahum and Zephaniah, and also by the pious Tobias, that did live there again, which did also not long after follow. Yet was it re∣built again afterwards, and did suffer very much up∣on changes of Governments, until at length Tamerlan came and took it by Storm, burnt it, and reduced it into Ashes to that degree, that afterwards in the same place grew Beans and Colocasia, &c. So that at this time there is nothing of any Antiquities to be seen as in Old Babylon, save only the Fort that lieth upon the Hill, and some few Villages, which as the Inhabitants say, did also belong to it in former Days. This Town lieth on the Confines of Armenia, in a large Plain, where they sow the greatest part of their Corn, on the other side of the River; for on this side in Mesopota∣mia, it is so sandy and dry, that you would think you were in the middle of the Desarts of Arabia. Yet there is a very large Deposition of Merchandices, because of the River, wherefore several Goods and Fruits, are brought thither from the adjacent Countries, both by Land and Water, to Ship them for Bagdet. Among the rest I saw abundance of small and great Turpen∣tine-Nuts, by the Inhabitants called (as above-said) Bont-quiber and Sougier; and also another sort of Man∣na as big as a double Fist, which is very common here, and is brought from Armenia, as they told me. It is of a brown colour, a great deal bigger and firmer, and not so sweet as that of Calabria, yet very good and pleasant to eat. Within it are several red Grains, so small that one taketh no notice of them when one eats it. It looseneth the Body very well, but not so much

as ours, wherefore the Inhabitants eat great pieces thereof in the Morning, as the Country-men on the Mountains of Algaw eat Cheese. But whether the Arabians make mention thereof, if it be not the Man∣na Alhagiezi, whereof Avicen in his Second Book the Second Treatise, and the 758th. Chapter maketh men∣tion, I know not neither what it is to be reputed. The Town Mossel is as above-said, for the greatest part inhabited by Nestorians, which pretend to be Chri∣stians, but in reality they are worse than any other Na∣tions whatsoever, for they do almost nothing else, but rob on the High-ways, and fall upon Travellers and kill them: Therefore being that the Roads chiefly to Zibin (to which we had Five Days Journey, and for the most part through sandy Wildernesses) are very dangerous, we staid some Days longer expecting more Company that we might go the surer.