A collection of curious travels & voyages in two tomes ... / by John Ray ...

CHAP. I.

How I departed from Halepo to the Famous City of Bir, and how I sailed from thence on the Euphrates to old Babylon.

AFter I had stay'd a good while in Halepo, and had seen and understood the Trade and Merchan∣dices of the Inhabitants, together with that of all the other Nations, viz. Grecians, Arme∣nians, Georgians, Arabians, Persians, and Indians, which come and go daily with their Caravans, and very well

observed and understood their Manners and Customs, and had also Collected a fine parcel of foreign and unde∣scribed Plants; I resolved to go farther Eastward into Mesopotamia, Assyria, and Babylonia, &c. as the anci∣entest and most fruitful Countries that ever were, where the ancientest People, and the most Potent Mo∣narchs did inhabit. But these Countries lying far off, and the Way that leadeth thither, passing through vast Desarts and Wildernesses, and therefore the Voyage be∣ing so much the more difficult and dangerous to at∣tempt and accomplish; I first look'd out for a trusty Companion, to take as my Assistant, and met pre∣sently with an experienced Dutchman, that had lived a great while in Halepo, who granted my request (be∣ing as desirous to go this Voyage as my self) to go along with me. We agreed presently, and began to consider, which was our best Way to take. But that we being Strangers, might not be taken to be Vaga∣bonds or Spies (they being very suspicious) from whence they might presently take occasion (as the Turks use to do) to lay great Avarias, or unjust Taxes, upon us, which the Christians that deal to these Parts, have of∣ten to their great Loss and Damage experienced; we did consider, and found, that the Trading here was very great, so that they did not only deal from hence, into Armenia, Egypt, and Constantinople, (for from thence come the Caravans through Natolia, in about a Months time) but also very much into Persia and India: Where∣fore we thought best to profess our selves Merchants, that so we might Travel the more safely with other Merchants, in order thereto, to buy some Merchandices, that would Sell in those Places, and to carry them a∣long with us. That we might put this in execution, my formerly mentioned Friend Hans Ʋlrich Raft, from Ʋlm, took great Pains to furnish me at my De∣sire and Request, with several fit Commodities for those Places, upon account of my Patron, Mr. Melchior Manlich, which I got pack'd up immediately, to go with them to the Famous City Bagdet, situated upon the Tigris, where is a great Staple and Deposition of Merchandices that are to go farther for Persia and India.

But seeing that seldom any Merchants go from Ha∣lepo further into these Countries, so that our Habits are very rarely seen there; we cloathed our selves as is usual, in the common Turkish Habit (that every body might not presently look upon us as Strangers); first, we had long blue Cabans, which are button'd before quite down, and cut out about the Neck, not unlike to those of the Armenians; and white Drawers made of Cotton, that hung down to our Ankles, and were drawn in, and tied about our Bodies, and also Shirts after the same Fashion, and without Collars. We also fitted our selves with white Turbants with a blue Brim, such as Christians usually wear, and put on yellow Shooes which were painted, before guarded with Nails, and with Horse Shooes behind. Besides this we put on a kind of a Frock, made of a certain course Stuff called Meska in their Language, which is common among the Moors. They are generally made of Goats and Asses Hair, pretty nar∣row, without Sleeves, and short, reaching only to our Knees. But these Stuffs being not all alike, the finest thereof (chiefly that which is striped white and black) is taken for Cloaths; and the courser for Tents and Portmantles, wherein they carry their Provision through the Desarts, and also keep their Camels and Mules meat, hanging it about their Necks. This puts me in mind of the plain cloathing which the ancient Inhabitants of these Countries, (chiefly the Israelites, when they mourned for their deceased Relations, or when they repented of their committed Iniquities, and turned from them, and prayed God to forgive them their ac∣cumulated Transgressions) used to put on, as we read in the 37th. Chapter of Genesis, where Jacob lamented the Death of his Son Joseph; and in the Book of the Prophet Jonas, of the Ninevites, who believing the Prophet's Words, denouncing their Destruction within Forty Days, and repenting of their Sins, put on Sack∣cloth, and prayed to God for forgiveness. The like we read of the King and Prophet David, after he had numbred his People. Item, in the 10th. Chapter of Luke and other places, &c. that they put on Sackcloth and did repent in Ashes. It is therefore very probable,

that those were very like unto them that are still in use.

When we had thus accoutred our selves for the Voyage, and provided us with all Necessaries, viz. Cloths, Merchandices, Provision of Biskets and Drink, and did stay only for some Fellow-travellers, we were still doubtful whether it were more convenient for us to go by Land with Caravans, which go from hence and Da∣mascus very strong to Bagdet, through great Sands and Desarts in Fifty Days, more or less, according as the Weather proveth: Or, whether we should go by Water, either upon the Tigris or the Euphrates, there being good Opportunity to go in Company with others. But it happening that we met with some Armenian Merchants Servants that did live at Halepo, who were also provided with Goods, and had a mind to go into the same Countries, we did readily embrace this Opportunity, partly because they understood the Turkish and Arabian Languages, which two are chiefly spoken in Syria, and partly because some of them had been four times al∣ready in the Indies; wherefore we put our Goods to theirs, and loaded a great many Camels together, to deliver them to us at Bir, to ship them there upon the Euphrates; And that we might pass every where in the Turkish Dominions, we took a Pass from the Bashaw and Cadi, and so we began our Travels to Bir, distant Three Days Journey, the 13th. of August, Anno 74. By the way we were so strange to one another, that in our new Fashioned Cloaths we did hardly know one another among them all. After we had the first Day a rough Road, and travelled through many Desarts and uninhabited Places, we reached at Night a little Vil∣lage, where we encamped and pitched our Tents. We put all our Packs in a circle round about us, and with∣out them our Beasts (as it is usual in great Caravans) to defend us from the Assaults of the Moors in the Night. A little after Midnight we heard a great Ca∣ravan of many Camels and Asses to go by, very near to us, which after it was passed, we broke also up and followed them; when the Day Light appeared, we saw several plow'd Fields more than the Day before, and

also here and there in some pleasant Places many Tents of the Arabians, which were fixed together as it were in a Camp; ranged very orderly into Streets. After we had that Morning travelled very hard, so that our Beasts under their heavy Loads began to be tired in the great Heat, we rested behind a little Chapel, to refresh our selves, and to feed our Camels; in the mean time some poor Women came down from the High-lands to us to gather the Dung of our Camels to burn it in∣stead of Wood, whereof they were in great want. When the great Heat was over, and we had staid there for two Hours, we went on again, and came before it was Night, to a little Village lying in a Valley, near which upon the Height, the Arabians had formed a great Camp: We went up to them, and pitched our Tents in the Plain by them, and kept as abovesaid a good Watch. They came quickly to us, spoke kindly to us, and their Wives brought us Water and good Milk; but after we saw that they were very naked and hungry, and in their shape like to our Gypsies, we did not trust them at all, but kept a very good Watch all that Night. These are Vagabond People, that are used to Idleness from their Infancy, and will rather endure Hun∣ger, Heat and Cold, than get any thing by their Handy-work, or Till the Fields, or Plant Garden-herbs for their Maintenance, although they might do it in several fruitful Places in their own possession. So you find here a great Number of them by the sides of these sandy Desarts, that have no where any Habita∣tion, but live in their Tents like as the Beasts do in Caves, and go like unto the Gypsies from place to place, until they light on one, where they may live a great while with their Cattle, and when all is eat up, want dri∣veth them from thence, to look out for another.

On the 15th. early before break of Day, we were up in the cool of the Day, with an intention to reach to Bir that Night, but our Camels were grown so faint by reason of the excessive Heat and the great Burthens, that they fell down several times, wherefore we look∣ed out for a convenient place where we might stay all Night, and found at last a Village near which we

pitched our Tents, eat some Gourds and Biskets, and so went to rest.

Two Hours before break of the Day, we began our Journey again, and came early in the Morning to the great River called Euphrates, we went over with our Goods and Chattel, and fixed our Tents before the Town near the River, on the other side, to stay for a Barge that was to come from Armenia, to go from thence to Babylon, which is now called Felugo. By the way I saw no Herbs of any worth, except the Galega, in our Language called Goats-rue, which grew plenti∣fully on the dry Heaths; and near to the Road, the first sort of Apocynum, by us called Dogs-bane, very like unto the great Celandine in its Leaves and Pods: I also saw whole acres of Turkish Corn called Sesamo, and o∣thers all sown with Cotton, and also a kind of Esula, very full of Milk, wherewith the fallow Grounds were so filled up, that at a distance, you would have taken it for good Corn. Seeing that the Scammony that uses to be brought to Halepo, is wont sometime to be very sharp, therefore it may very well be, that they adul∣terate it with this Esula. Near the Town grew abun∣dance of Acacia, called Schack and Schamuck, as is a∣bove mentioned, which are here in Stem and Fruit, greater and larger than ever I saw any any where. The Town Bir is situated on the other side of the great Ri∣ver Euphrates in Mesopotamia, near the high Hill Taurus, just like Tripolis near the Libanus, or our Losanna on our Alps: It is neither big nor strong, but pretty well defended by a Castle that lyeth on a high Rock above the River, not easily to be taken. There is a very plea∣sant Country round about it, and very fruitful, which (chiefly on this side of the River where it is plain) is very well Tilled and Sown with Corn (which they did just thrash out when we came, with little Waggons drawn by Oxen) and here and there are very good Villages. But beyond the River it is more hilly, which kind of Ground extends it self a great way towards the East, and divideth Armenia from Mesopotamia. It is at the top very rough and bare; nothing but Bu∣shes and Herbs to be seen there; wherefore abundance

of Beasts, chiefly Lambs and Goats, are daily brought down, which are carried over the Euphrates, and so driven to Halepo and other adjacent places. This Ri∣ver where it runs by the Town is about a Mile broad, and so deep that it is not easy to make a Bridge over it: Yet because it hath not a swift Current in that place, it is not very dangerous to Sail on it, except where it enlargeth it self (as it doth in great Desarts) or else where it divideth it self into several Branches, so that the Water-men do not know, which is the best way for them to take; wherefore the Merchants that have a mind to come quicker and with less Pains to Bagdet with their Merchandices, carry them by Land to Orpha, to the Famous Town of Carahmet, which lyeth Six Days further towards the East, on the Bor∣ders of Assyria and Media, upon the rapid River Tigris, where is a great Deposition of Merchandices, that are sent from thence to Ormutz and the Indies. The Eu∣phrates is continually muddy, and therefore almost not fit to be drunk, except you let it stand Two or Three Hours, until the Sand and Mud is sunk down to the bottom, which sometimes is of the thickness of an Inch: So that in every House where they have no Wells, all along the River in Towns and Villages, they have several great Pots which they fill out of the Ri∣ver, and let them stand until it be setled, but if they have occasion to drink of it before, they drink through their Towels.

During the time of our staying there they brought us several sorts of Fishes they had caught in the River to Sell, and among the rest one sort called Geirigi, which in their Shape and Scales were very like unto Carps, only they were not so thick in the Belly, but a great deal longer and bigger, so that sometimes one of them did weigh three Rotula's of their Weight, which is about Seventeen or Eighteen of our Pounds. They are very delicate and good to eat, and so cheap, that we could buy one for one Medin, in our Money worth a∣bout three Pence. To catch these, our Ship's Crew flung out oftentimes some Pellets made up with Coc∣culus Indic; (which Fruit is named by them Deam Sa∣mec)

and presently after some of the Fish flung them∣selves up at the top of the Water, whereupon they jum∣ped out of the Ship, to catch them, and to carry them a-shoar. I saw also a peculiar sort of Vultures, which were so tame, that they did not only sit very thick upon the Houses, but they sat down in the Street be∣fore all the People without any fear, they are more of an Ashen Colour than ours, but for bigness, height and the rest, exactly like unto them. Besides these there was another sort of them, that were something bigger, and of a lighter Colour than the former, and had some black at the Ends of their Wings like unto our Storks. They eat also Carrion, and Meat, and are somewhat wilder, wherefore they may be affirmed to be the very same that Rhasis called Gyuni, and Avicenn, Rachame. During the time that we staid there, a Bashaw was sent hither by the Turkish Sultan, with some hundred Spa∣hi's, pretty well armed, for his Master did intend to make War with the Trusci, that so he might de∣fend the Confines of Syria, Mesopotamia, and Ar∣menia, &c. from being assaulted by them, and to keep every thing secure. The Trusci live on the Mountain of Libanus, and pretend to be the Off spring of those People that under Godfrey de Bouillon did possess them∣selves again of the Land of Promise. They are since so much encreased, that they are able to bring into the Field Sixty Thousand (most of which are very good Gunners) which if occasion be, they can bring toge∣ther in a short time. The Grand Signior seeing that they encreased daily, so that he did fear they would be in time too great for him, to prevent this (as then the common Discourse went) and to subdue them, and bring them under his Yoke, did summon some Ba∣shaws and Sangiacs, chiefly him of Damascus to bring together a great Army, to fall upon them. But which way he did beat them, and how he encroach∣ed upon them, I shall (because I did for this time, during my Travels, hear no more of it) relate more largely after my return. The Spahi's which came with the Bashaw, took (because they would not be Idle) their Diversion in Running, Shooting with Arrows,

and in Fencing, or Cudgel-playing, and sometimes the Country People came in with them, and played with them, but not in so many sorts of Arms as the Fencing-Masters do in our Country, viz. with Daggers, Swords or Halbarts, for these are not in fashion in those Coun∣tries. They take instead thereof only Cudgels, with them they approach towards one another three times, yet not with such flourishes and neatness as our Fen∣cers do before they begin, for their long Cloaths hinder them. In their left hand they have a Buckler which is about a Foot Diameter round, covered with Lea∣ther, and stuffed out with Hair; in their right Hand they have a Cudgel, wherewith they strike strait at one another in the first bout, as the Boys do in our Country, but in the second and third bout, they strike cross-ways, chiefly in the third which is the last, which they take off cleaverly with their Bucklers; and some∣time they strike at one anothers Legs, but never to hurt one another; when this is done, they turn back and march off. This manner of Fencing is very common in these Countries.

At length after we had staid a great while, several Ships did arrive from above, and ours, for which we did stay, among them. So our Patron begun to load, and to fit himself for our departure: And so did two more that had a mind to go in Company with us. One among them belonging to a Turk was laden only with Corn, to carry during the Scarcity (which was oc∣casioned by the great Heat, and for want of Rain) to Bagdet. We also bought several sorts of Fruits, viz. Cibebs, Anguria's, Garlick and Onions, &c. and took also along with us some Ground Corn, as is usual to do in such Voyages, which with Rice Flower is fit to make Puddings, or to bake Bread of; Honey and other things to serve as Provision for our Ship; for we were to travel a great way through many De∣sarts and Places not inhabited, where nothing was to be had. For there are no Inns upon this River, as upon the Rhine or Danube, where they dress Victuals for Travellers against they come. And that we might have sometimes something Hot to eat, we provided our∣selves

with several Cooking Vessels (as is usual in these cases) to dress our Meat in. But the Master of our Ship still wanting both Men and Merchandices to load his Ship withal, we were forced to stay somewhat longer, for other Merchants which came in a little time from Halepo (whereof some were Armenians, some Persians, others from Bagdet and Balsora) to us; with these also came into the Ship Four Souldiers that were listed by the Turks to go to Bagdet, to rein∣force the Confines of Persia: Our Master also took in some of their Jews, which are worse than ours, and so we were warned to have a care of them. Besides all these we were forced to take in some of their Re∣ligious Men, which had long before begged there∣about, for they commonly live by begging, and desire you to give them something Alla hitsi, that is, for God's sake, and yet if they find an Opportunity they will fall upon you and Rob you. They are very ill-favour∣ed, idle, and yet very hardy Men, that run about all Countries, and often do a great deal of hurt; where∣fore one must have especial Care of them, chiefly upon the Road. Yet for all this they have in these Coun∣tries very great Privileges; they pretend to great Ho∣liness and Devotion, and pray often, and perswade the Vulgar sort of People, that God doth hear their Pray∣ers before any others, and grants their desires, but People do not believe them so readily now, as their Ancestors have done formerly, wherefore they do not re∣main long in one place, that their Roguery may not so much appear.