The voyages and travells of the ambassadors sent by Frederick, Duke of Holstein, to the Great Duke of Muscovy and the King of Persia begun in the year M.DC.XXXIII. and finish'd in M.DC.XXXIX : containing a compleat history of Muscovy, Tartary, Persia, and other adjacent countries : with several publick transactions reaching near the present times : in VII. books. Whereto are added the Travels of John Albert de Mandelslo (a gentleman belonging to the embassy) from Persia into the East-Indies ... in III. books ... / written originally by Adam Olearius, secretary to the embassy ; faithfully rendered into English, by John Davies.

THE TRAVELS OF THE AMBASSADORS FROM THE DUKE of HOLSTEIN INTO MUSCOVY, TARTARY, and PERSIA. (Book 5)

The Fifth Book. (Book 5)

THe Countrey where we Landed,* 1.1 or rather where the wrack cast us ashore, is called Muskur, and makes part of the Province of Schirwan, or the Antient Media, under the Jurisdiction of the Sulthan, or Governour of Derbent, and comprehends, from the City of Derbent to the Province of Kilan, about two hundred Villages. But before we come to give an accompt of what we have seen in Persia, it is requisite in this place, that we give a general descrip∣tion of that Country and its Provinces, upon this consideration, that there is not any Author that hath hitherto undertaken this work, but hath confounded the Antient names of Cities and Rivers with the Modern, and speaks thereof almost in the same terms, as the Greek and Latin Histories, which treat of the antient Persia. The Map of this Country, which was some few years since publish'd at Paris, is, no doubt, the most exact of any that have yet come to light: but if any man will be at the pains, to confront the Names it gives the Cities and Provinces of Persia, with those which are in this Map of ours, he will easily find the difference there is be∣tween the one and the other.

As to the name of Persia,* 1.2 Herodotus, in the seventh Book of his History, sayes, that the Am••assador, whom Xerxes, King of Persia, sent to the Greeks, would have them believe, that he deriv'd his original from Perses the Son of Pers••us and Andromeda. Ammianus Marcelli∣nus affirms, that the Persians are originally Scythians; and, if we credit Pliny, the Scythians call them Chor••ur••. The Holy Scripture calls them Elamites, and they give themselves the name of Schai, thereby ••o be distinguish'd from the Turks, who, upon the same accompt, give them∣selves that of Sunni. And as the same Turks have an affectation to call themselves Mussulmans, so the Persians are much pleas'd, when they are called Kisilbachs, that is to say, Red-heads. But of the Etymology of that word, we shall give an accompt hereafter, when we come to treat of the habits of the Persians.

It is most certain, that Parthia and Persia were heretofore two distinct Kingdomes, and that the name of Persia hath not been common to both, till they became both subject to the same King, and were inhabited by the same people. Upon the same Consideration it is, that we now comprehend under the name of Persia, not only the Kingdom of Persia it self, but also all the

other Provinces which have been annexed thereto,* 1.3 either by Conquest or otherwise, and are now under the Jurisdiction of that Monarch. Hence it is, that when we speak of Persia, our meaning is, to comprehend, under that name, all that Country, which reaches from North to South-west, from the Caspian-sea, to the Gulf of Persia, and from East to West, from the Ri∣ver Euphrates, which the Turks call Morat su, to the City of Candahar, upon the frontiers of the Indies. By assigning it the Caspian-sea for its frontier, our meaning is to comprehend there∣in near the one half of that sea, along the Mountains of Armenia, reaching West-ward as far as the River of Ruth-Cane Kurkahn, by the Antients called Oxus, which divides the Persians from the Vsbeques, who are the same that are called the Tartars of Buchar, and are for the most part Tributaries to the King of Persia.

Whence is to be observed by the way the error of Bottero, who, in his Politia Regin says, that the extent of Persia from North to South is eighteen degrees. Wherein he is so much the more mistaken, by how much it is certain, that, from the first City of Persia from the Caspian Sea, to its utmost frontiers towards the Persian Gulf, there are hardly twelve degrees. For, let a man but cast his Eye, not only on the Map, which we here give of it, but also on that of M. Sampson, and particularly on that of the Learned Mr. Iohn Graves, not long since publish'd by him in England, and he will find, that the City of Husum, which the Inhabitants of the Coun∣try call Rescht, within two small Leagues of the Caspian Sea, lies at thirty seven degrees, and that the City of Ormus, upon the Persian Gulf, is but at twenty five, which make but twelve in all. We acknowledge that it contains above twenty degrees in length, from the Euphrates to the Indies: but we are to consider withall, that one degree of Longitude under the thirty seventh degree of Latitude, under which Persia ••ies, consists but of fifty minutes at the most.

The principal Provinces of the modern Persia are those of Erak, Fars, Schirwan, Adirbeit∣zan, Kilan Thabristan, M••senderan, Iran or Karabag, Cherasan, Sablustan, Sitzestan, Kir∣man, Chusistan, and Tzisire, or Diarbeck.

The name of Erak,* 1.4 or Hierak, is common to two several Provinces, to wit, that whereof the City of Babylon or Bagdat is the Metropolis, which is commonly called Erakain, and with∣out all question is the antient Assyria. But it is not of this Province that we have any account to give in this place. Our Province of Erak, which is also called Erak-atzem, to distinguish it from Erakain, lies in the midst of all Persia, next to the Province of Fars, and is the antient Parthia. The Archontology, Printed not many years since at Frankfort, gives it the name of of Charassen, but it confounds this Province with that of Chuaresm, which lies upon the Caspi∣an Sea, on the East-side, and is inhabited by the Tartars called the Vsbeques. The chief Ci∣ties of the Province of Erak besides that of Ispahan, which is the Metropolis of the whole Kingdom, are Caswin So••thanie, Senkan, Sawa, Kom, Kaschan, Rhey, Schaherrisur, Ebbcher, He∣medan, Darkasin, Theheran, and Kulpajan, at which last place, the best Bows in Persia are made.

The Province of Fars,* 1.5 which De Laet, in his description of the State of Persia, calls Farc, or Parc, but unadvisedly, is properly the antient Persia, whereof Persepolis was the chief City. Alexander the Great caused it to be set on fire, out of a fond Compliance for a common Pro∣stitute, with whom he had over-drunk himself. It is reported, that the ruins of that City be∣came the foundation of that of Schiras upon the River Bendemir, which Q. Curtius calls A∣raxis, Its principal Cities, besides that of Schiras, whereof there will be an accompt given in the following Travels of Mr. Mandelslo into the Indies, are Kasirus, Bunitzan, Firusabath, and Astar: whereto may be added the City of Lahor, with the little Province which derives its name from it.

The Province of Sciruan is known in the Maps under the name of Servan,* 1.6 and is no doubt that which the Antients called Media Acropatia, though Ienkinson, in his Itinerary. affirms, that it is the antient Hyrcania. It is indeed the most Northerly part of the antient Media, which Herodotus and Strabo deliver to be Mountainous and Cold. Whereof we had a sufficient expe∣rience in our Travels, after our departure from Schamachie, as will be seen in its due place. Schamachie is the Metropolis of the Province, wherein there are besides, Bakuje seated at the foot of a Mountain upon the Caspian-sea, which from its name is called the sea of Baku: That of Derbent, which is one of the Passages which the Antients called Pylae Caspiae. This is that which Alexander the Great caused to be built, and called Alexandria, upon which accompt it is that the Inhabitants do often call it Schacher Iunan, that is, the City of the Greeks: That of Schabran, in the Country of Muskur, near the place where the wrack cast us ashore. The Ci∣ty of Eres, or Aras, is destroyed; but there may be seen the remainders of what it hath been heretofore, upon the River Arras, which is now called Arisbar.

The Province of Iran, which the Inhabitants of the Country commonly and for the most part called Karabag,* 1.7 is seated between the two famous Rivers of Araxes and Cyrus, which are now called Aras and Rur, and comprehends some part of the two Provinces of Armenia and Georgia, which the Persians call Armenich and Gurtz. It is one of the noblest and richest

Provinces of all Persia,* 1.8 and in this particularly, that it produces more Silk than any other. It is sub-divided into several other lesser Provinces, to wit, those of Kappan, Tzulfa, Scabus, Sisian, Keschtas, Sarsebil, Ervan or Iruan, Kergbulag, Agustawa, Aberan, Scorgd, Saschat, Intze, Thabak-melek, Thumanis, Alget, and Tzilder. The principal Cities, Forts, and Towns of it are Berde, Bilagan, Skemkur, Kentze, Berkuschat, Nachtscuan, Ordebad, Bajesied, Maku, Magasburt, Tiftis and Tzilder. This great Province might very well deserve a larger account to be given of it; but in regard it borders upon the Turk, and that I have been so fortunate, as to meet with a very accurate Map of this Country, together with a particular relation of what ever is most observable therein, we shall endeavour to find else-where some occasion to speak of a thing, which to treat of in this place would make too great a Digression.

Adirbeitzan,* 1.9 which the Europaeans are wont to name Aderbajon, or Adarbigian, is the more Southerly part of the Antient Media, to wit, that part which the Antients call Media Major. And forasmuch as it is acknowledg'd that the Province of Kurdestan is that which the Antients call'd Assyria, we may in some measure be satisfy'd with what Nubius's Geography says, to wit, that it is the more Northerly part of Assyria, since they have their Frontiers common, and in a manner confounded. It is divided from the Province of Schiruan, by the Deserts of Mokan, and from that of Karabag, by the River Aras, and it hath, on the East, the Province of Kilan. Adirbeitzan is also sub-divided into many other little Provinces, as Erschee, Meschkin, Kermeruth, Scrab, Chal∣chal, Tharumat, Suldus, Vtzam, &c. Its principal Cities are Ard••bil and Tauris. The former is famous for the Birth of Schich Sefi, Author of the Sect of the Perses, who liv'd and dy'd in that City, where his Tomb is yet to be seen, as also those of several other Kings of Persia, of whom we shall have occasion to speak hereafter. The City of Tauris or Tabris, which is thought to be that of Gabris according to Ptolomey, and which Ortelius affirms to be the anti∣ent Ecbatana, heretofore the most considerable place in all the East, and the ordinary residence of the Kings of Persia, is seated at the foot of the Mountain Orontes, eight dayes journey from the Caspian Sea, and is one of the richest and most populous Cities of Persia. The rest are Mer∣rague, Salmas, Choi, Miane, Karniarug, Thesu, Thel, and Tzeuster. Tzors and Vrami are two places excellently well fortify'd, and in the latter is to be seen the Sepulchre of ••urla, the Wife of King Casan, which if it bears any proportion to the stature of that Woman, she must needs have been a Giantess, and of an extraordinary height, since the Tomb is above forty foot long.

The Province of Kilan derives its name from the people that inhabit it,* 1.10 who are called Ki∣lek. It is the antient Hyrcania. For its situation absolutely agrees with that which is given it by Quintus Curtius, and that it is encompass'd, after the manner of a Crescent, with a Moun∣tain cover'd with Trees. It is water'd by many little Rivers. It comprehends several other Provinces, among which, some number that of Thabristan or Mesauderan, which is the same with that, whose Inhabitants, in the time of Alexander the Great, were called Mardi. The rest are Kisilagas, Deschteuend, Maranku, Maschican, Lengerkunan, Astara, Buladi, Schigke∣ran, Nokeran, Kilikeraa, Houe, Lemur, Disekeran, Lissar, Tzeulandan, Rihk, Kesker, Rescht, Lahetzan, and Astarabath, containing forty six Cities, and a very great number of Villages. The principal Cities are,* 1.11 Astrabath, Metropolis of the Province of the same name; and Fi∣rascu, where may be had the fairest Turquoises in the Kingdome. In Mesanderan are Amul, Funkabun, Nei, Sarou, Nourketzour, and the noble and pleasant City of Ferabath. It was here∣tofore called Tahona, but Schach Abas was so pleas'd with it, that many times he pass'd over the Winter therein, and gave it the name it now hath, from the word F••rah, which signifies plea∣sant or delightful. Indeed the whole Country is such, so that they who affirm that fruits hard∣ly ripen in it by reason of its coldness, injure it very much; unless it be that they speak of its Mountains, which indeed are not habitable: but the plains are very populous, and very fertile, and so pleasant, that the Persians say it is the Garden of the Kingdome, as Touraine is, of France. Whence the Hakim, or Poet, Fardausi had reason to say,

Tschu Mesanderan, Tschu Kulkend•• Sar? Nikerem we nesert, henis che besar?

That is,* 1.12 What is Mesanderan? Is it not a place set with Roses? neither too Hot, nor too Cold, but a perpetual Spring? Lahetzan is famous for its Silk, which it hath better than any other place; and its principal Cities are Lenkeru, Kutsesbar, and Amelekende. In the Province of Rescht,* 1.13 besides the Metropolis of the same name, are the Cities of Kisma, Fumen, Tullum, Scheft, Dilum, and Massula. This last is built upon a Mountain, by reason of an Iron-mine, by which the inhabitants, who are most Smiths, maintain themselves. There are also in those parts abundance of Wall-nut Trees, whereof are made most of the Wooden dishes that are all over Persia.* 1.14 In Kesker are the Cities of Kesker, Scaherruth, Kurab, Enseli, Dulab, Schal; and towards the North, Ruesseru, Miunscaker, Senguerasara, Houe, Chosckkaderene, Henk••lan, and Kisilagats. There is no entrance into the Province of Kilan, but by the four passages, whereof we shall speak hereafter, in the last Book of the Travels of the Ambassadors, as also of the

Caspian gates, the insolence of the people who live between Mesandaran and Kesker, and the History of Karib Schach.

Chorasan,* 1.15 or the antient Bactriana, hath on the West, Mesanderan, and comprehends al∣so several other lesser Provinces, whereof the chiefest is that of Heri, the Metropolis whereof is Herat. This Province is one of the greatest, and most fertil of any in Persia, and that which drives on the greatest Trade of any. The City of Mesched, which, in the Catalogue or Re∣gister of their Cities, may be found under the name of Thus, is no doubt the most considerable of any. It is encompass'd with a noble Wall, set out with many sumptuous Structures, and among others with two, or if we may believe Texeira, three hundred Towers, distant one from the other about a Musquet shot. In this City is to be seen the Sepulchre of Iman Risa, one of the twelve Saints of Persia, of the Family of Aly, which, as to its Structure, Revenue, and Wealth, is equal to that of Ardebil, and all things are performed there with the same Cere∣monies. The same Devotions are also done there as at the Tomb of Schich Sesi. In the Coun∣try about Mesched, near the City of Nisabur, there is a Mountain, where are found such Ex∣cellent Turquezes, that the King permits them not to be sold to any but himself. Herath is the second City of the Province, and there, is made the best Persian Tapistry. The Indians Trade thither, and it is a place they must necessarily pass through, who go from Candahar to Ispahan. There it was that the Horses of the Great Mogul's Ambassador were stay'd, whereof we shall say more hereafter. Thun, Thabeskileki, and Thabes-M••ssinan, are very considerable Cities, as well upon the accompt of their greatness, as of the several Manufactures of Silk that are made there, and wherewith they drive a vast Trade. All the other Cities, as Sebseuar, Turschis, Kain, Puschentz, Badkis, Meru, Merurnd, Tzurtzan, Fariab, Asurkan, Belch, Bamian, Semkan, Thalecan, and Sus, are also very populous, and eminent for Merchandise, and in these parts is found the best Manna in the World.

The Province of Sablusthan lies more towards the East,* 1.16 Q. Curtius calls the Inhabitants of it Paropanisadae, from the neighbouring Mountain, called Paropamisus, which is a branch of Mount Taurus, and it is all Wooddy. The people living in it, is, at this day, as simple and barbarous as they were in the time of Alexander. It is upon this Mountain that Goropius Beca∣nus would have Noab's Ark rest, after the deluge, contrary to the opinion of most of the Fa∣thers, who, for the most part, agree, that it rested upon Mount Aratat in Armenia. The Cities of this Province are Beksabath, Meimine; Asbe, Bust, and Sarents.

The Province of Sitzistan,* 1.17 by others called Sigestan, Sagestan, and Siston, lies South-ward from the Province of Sablustan, and is the Habitation of the people, who were heretofore called Dragae. It is encompass'd of all sides by a high Mountain; and it is the Country of the Grand Rustam, who is known not only in their Histories, but is also the only celebrated Heros of all their Romances. The principal Cities of this Province, are Sistan, Chaluk, Ketz, &c.

The Province of Kirman is also one of the greatest of the Kingdome of Persia.* 1.18 It lies be∣tween those of Fars and Sigestan, and reaches as far as the Sea, and the Island of Ornus. The Country is somewhat un-even, and Mountainous, but the Valleys of it are very fertil and de∣lightful, abounding in Fruit, and every where cover'd, and as it were strew'd with Flowers, especially Roses, whereof this Province produces such great quantity, that a considerable part of its Revenue is rais'd out of the water made of them. The Inhabitants call it Gulap, whence it may be well imagin'd that the Word Iulip comes, and they drive a great Trade with it, espe∣cially at Ispahan. Those who Trade most in it, are the Lurs, who are a sort of people by them∣selves, distinguish'd from the other Persians by what they wear about their Heads, which is a kind of Coiffure, that is longer and narrower than the ordinary Turbants, and there is fasten'd to it a tuft or tassel, which hangs down over the Back. There is also in this Province a Drugg ve∣ry soverain against the Worms, which is called Daru Kirman, as well upon accompt of the Province, as also hence, that the Word Kirman signifies a Worm. And concerning this, there is a story of one of their Kings, who being in the fields on Horse-back, heard himself call'd by his own name. He look'd back, as if he had heard the voice behind him, and seeing only a dead man's skull half rotten upon the ground, and doubting the voice proceeded thence, he asked, who it was. The skull answer'd, that that was all was left of what he had sometime been; that he had worn a Crown as well as himself, and had Conquer'd several great Provinces, but that desirous to add, to his other Conquests, that of Kirman, he had been over-come and eaten; exhorting him to reflect on what he had seen, and to make his advantage of that Philosophy. The Province is barren enough towards the North, having on that side abundance of heathy grounds; but towards the Sea-side it is very fertil. Its principal Cities are Birsir, Bermasir, Bem, Chabis, Tzirest, Kamron, and Ormus, Kamron is a Sea-port, whence it is many times called Bender, or Bender Kamron. Ormus, by the Persians called Hormous, is an Island, three Leagues distant from the Continent: but of these two places, the Reader will have a further accompt in the first Book of Mandelso's Travels into the Indies. There is comprehended also

under the Province of Kirman,* 1.19 that of Mekeran, wherein are the Cities of Firh, Kitz, and Chalak.

Chusistan is the same which was heretofore called Susiana, and in the time of the Hebrews Elam.* 1.20 It lies between the Province of Fars and the River Dilsel, and its Metropolis was Susa, famous for the Vision which the Prophet Daniel had there, concerning the determination of the Persian Monarchy, and the beginning of the Grecian. It is now called Desu. It was also in these parts that the palace of Susa stood, upon the River Vlai, where King Ahasuerus, King over twenty seven Provinces, made his great Feast. Its chief Cities are Ahawas, Ramchormus, Scabur, Askar, and Arhan. The heats in these parts are so great, especially towards the South-part of the Mountain, that, in the Summer time, the Inhabitants are forc'd to forsake the Cities, and retire themselves into the Mountain.

Tzisire is found in the Catalogue of the Provinces of Persia,* 1.21 and it is the antient Mesopota∣mia. Now it is commonly called Diarbek, and lies between the Rivers Euphrates and Tigris, which the Turks call Digel. This Province hath been often taken and retaken by them from the Persians; so that it is not alwayes under the Schach's Jurisdiction, but then only when he is Master of Bagdat, or Babylon, and Mosul, which some affirm to have been the antient Ninive. 'Tis true, Bagdat is not properly in the Province of Diarbek, but in that of Eracain, as are al∣so the Cities of Wasith, Besre, Rusa, and Medain.

As to the City of Bagdat, there is nothing so certain, as that it was built, out of the ruins of the antient Babylon, but not in the same place, in as much as Babylon stood upon the Euphrates, which ran through it, as is expressely affirmed by Strabo; whereas Bagdat is seated upon the Tigris, which joyns with the Euphrates, a League below the City. The Persians are of opi∣nion, that the Inhabitants of Babylon had heretofore their Summer-Houses and Gardens at the place where now Bagdat stands, insomuch that after the destruction of the City, they found it no great difficulty to remove their habitations thither. And indeed, the word Bag, which singnifies a Garden, and Bagdat, a place full of Gardens, does in some measure confirm their opinion.

To resume our former discourse,* 1.22 the Country where we were cast a-shore, is very pleasant, it was all over green at the time of our arrival, and the Birds, which were not yet sensible of the Cold, ordinary in our parts, continued their Chirping and Singing till near the middle of December. The soil there is very good, bringing forth Rice, Wheat, and Barley, in great abundance. They make no Hay, because their Cattle are out Winter and Summer; but if they make any, it is only for the convenience of Travellers. Their Vines were scatter'd up and down, Planted without any care or order, all along the Hedges the Vines being fasten'd to the Trees, so as that they spread up to the extremities of the Boughs, from which the small bran∣ches hung donw three or four Ells in length. All the Province of Kilan is full of them, and at our return, we saw very fair and very large ones, at Astora. The Country affords good store of Wild-fowl, especially Pheasants, as also of Hares, the Hunting whereof found us good sport during the aboad we were forc'd to make there. There is also in these parts a certain kind of Foxes, which they call Shakal, about the bigness of those of Europe, (of which kind there are also abundance, and the Inhabitants call them Tulki) but instead of Furr or Hair, they are cover'd with Wool, and have white bellies, Ears all black, and less Tails than those of our parts. We heard them in the night time running in Herds about the Village, and were not a little troubled at their Cries, which was a drawling and doleful noise, without any in∣termission.

The Inhabitants make use of Buffles or wild Oxen, more than they do of Horses, but in∣stead of loading them upon their Backs, they make them draw Wood, or any other things of great weight. Their ordinary sustenance is Feny-greek, wherewith they sow whole Fields, as we do with Vetches and Lentills, and they cut it while it is yet green, Herb and Seed together, and so give it those Creatures to eat. The Milk, I mean that of the Females, is so fat, that it makes a Cream two fingers thick, of which they make exellent Butter. They never make a∣ny Cheese of Cow's-milk, but only of sheeps.

The Village of Niasabath is at 41 deg. 15 min. Elevation,* 1.23 and hath not above 15 or 16 poor Houses, which lye scatter'd up and down, all built of Clay, and absolutely square, having flat Roofs, and cover'd with Turfs, so as that a man might walk upon them without either dan∣ger or inconvenience. And indeed it is ordinary among the Persians, to erect Tents upon them, to eat, and, in the summer-time, to lye on them all night, that they may the more participate of the coolness of the Air. Here it was that I first understood what the Gospel says of the Paralytick, who was let down through the Roof of the House; and the Counsel our Saviour gave those who were upon the House-top, not to come down into the House; for this is their way of building all over the East. We were at first lodg'd in the Houses, which were very handsome within, and the floors of the Chambers for the most part cover'd with Tapistry, and the Masters of the Houses receiv'd and treated us the first day very well. But the Village being but small, not a∣ble to find Lodging for all our retinue, and our aboad being likely to be too long there for us

to lye upon the charges of the Inhabitants, we got Tents pitch'd near the Lodgings of the Am∣bassadors, where we continu'd till the Court of Persia took order for our departure thence. We had no Bread; our Beer was lost with the ship, and the Village had no spring of fresh wa∣ter; so that we were forc'd to look after our Mouldy scraps, and to content our selves with the troubled water of a small Torrent, which pass'd near the Village, while our ship furnish'd us with firing for the Kitchen and the Chambers.

Nov. 19. Schachewerdi, Governour of Derbent sent to complement us, upon the occasion of our arrival there, two Persons, very well clad, one whereof was Brother to the Kaucha of Niasabath. They deliver'd the Ambassadors the Sulthan's Letter, which came with a Pre∣sent of two Horses, as many Oxen, twelve sheep, twenty Pullets, three great Pitch∣ers of Wine, one Pitcher of Water, two Paniers of Apples, and three sacks of Wheat∣flower.

But the Ambassadors coming to understand, that the Sulthan's Letter made mention only of one Horse, they would not receive the other, though the Persians earnestly protested, that the mistake came only hence, that the Sulthan imagining there had been but one Ambassador, had accordingly sent but one Horse, and that they, coming afterwards to hear there were two, had bought another horse, out of an assurance that it was the Sulthan's intention to have done so.* 1.24 But notwithstanding all their allegatons and instances, the Ambassador Brugman would by no means accept of the horse, for no other reason, doubtless, than this, that his was not so good as his Collegue's. The Persians were not a little troubled thereat, and look'd on it as an affront done the Sulthan, who resented it so highly since, that he did us all the ill-Offices lay in his power, being also further troubled in this respect, that, contrary to the custom of Persia and Muscovy, upon the Ambassador Brugman's untowardness, his People had been sent away without Presents.

The 22. the Ambassadors sent Francis Meurier, one of our Retinue, with our Persian In∣terpreter, to the Chan or Governour general of the Province of Schiruan, whose ordinary re∣sidence is at Scamachie, to acquaint him with our arrival, and to entreat him to supply us with all things necessary for the continuation of our journey. The Governour, who had heard of it by some other means had immediately sent a Mehemander to us (so they call in Persia those who among the Muscovites are called Pristafs, whose charge it is to conduct the Ambassadors through the Country, and to see them furnish'd with Provisions and Carriage) but our people had mist him by the way.

This Mehemander came to our Quarters the 29. of November. He was most sumptuously Cloathed, and excellently well mounted, on a very gallant horse, the Harness whereof was cover'd with Gold, and beset with Turquezes. He acquitted himself very handsomly both in his address and complement, with promises of all the civilities and services it was in his power to do us, as long as we should be under his conduct, which was as far as Schamachie. Having answer'd his Complement, we invited him, and those who came along with him, to taste of our fruits, and of all sorts of Aquavitae, wherewith we were well stor'd. We also caused our great Guns to be discharg'd, and we entertain'd them with our Musick, wherewith they seem'd to be much taken. As soon as the Mehemander was return'd to his Lodging, he sent us a Pre∣sent of five sheep, three Pitchers of Wine, and some Pomegranates.

Nov. the last, came back Francis Meurier with the Interpreter, bringing this accompt, that the Chan being not at Scamachie, at their coming thither, they had been oblig'd to follow him into the Country, where they had found him encamp'd under Tents, with a Retinue of a∣bout four hundred persons: That he had receiv'd them kindly, and had assur'd them, that he had already sent a Mehemandar, whose care it should be to see the Ambassadors supply'd with all things necessary for the continuation of their journey; that he had told them further, that he heard the Ambassadors had a Retinue of about three hundred men, but they should be all wel∣come, though they were twice the number: That it was a great while since we first heard of this Embassy, and that he was very desirous to see us. To which accompt the Interpreter ad∣ded only this, that the Governour had particularly desir'd to be inform'd by him, of the quali∣ty and humours of the Ambassadors, as also of that of the persons whereof our Retinue con∣sisted, and our manner of life.

The first ill Office the Sulthan of Derbent did us, was, in denying us a sufficient number of horses and other cattel for the carriage of our selves and our Baggage.* 1.25 Which prov'd so conside∣rable a•••• rub in our way, that our Mehemander was forc'd to return to Scamachie, where he spent above a moneth in getting together such a number of cattel as might carry us and all we had: during all which time we were forc'd to continue still in the Village of Niasabath.

During that time was dis-embarqu'd, much about the same place, the Cuptzi or Persian Merchant,* 1.26 of whom we have spoken before, after he had run the same hazard upon the Caspian Sea as we had so narrowly escaped.

Nov. 24. came in thither a small Boat with five persons in it, who were all left of fifty, who had been cast away with the ship, which was bound for Kilan, the thirteenth before; so that

those poor people had been ten dayes together strugling with the wind and waves ere they could get Land.

The joy we might well conceive at our being in Persia, after so troublesome a Voyage, wherein we had run through so many dangers, was much abated by the inconveniences which the untowardness and humoursomness of one of the Chiefest in the Company run us into: but I shall spare the Reader the dissatisfaction of finding any thing in this relation but what is diver∣tive. The better to overcome the affliction it put us all into, we, who were of M••snie, entred in∣tred into a little society among our selves, and taking our advantage of the fair weather we had the first of December, we went all together in a Company about a quarter of a League from the Village, where we found out a little place, whereof the Rivulet maketh almost a Peninsula, so pleasant and inviting, that the fairest Meadows in Europe afford not any thing so delightful in the best Season of the year. The water came almost round about that little parcel of ground, and the Pomegranate-Trees, which had joyn'd their verdure with that of the Vines, invited us to rest our selves under their shade, and to divert our selves with the memory of our dear Coun∣trey: to which divertisement our Physician, Dr. Graman, contributed very much, by the good cheer he made us of Gamons of Bacon, Neats Tongues, and two or three sorts of Sack and Aquavitae, whereof he had still good store left. This was our divertisement for several dayes.

Decemb. 9.* 1.27 The Ambassadors were visited by the same Tartar Prince of Tarku, who had gi∣ven us a Visit at Terki. He was accompany'd by his brother, and attended by a Retinue of about twenty persons. After his Visit, he went to the next Village to look for Lodging, there being none to be had in ours, and sent us the next day, as a Present, an Ox, some Sheep, and two great Paniers of Apples. That which the Ambassadors sent in return thereto, consisted in cer∣tain Ells of Cloath and Satin, a Vessel of Aquavitae, and a Roll of Tobacco. And whereas he had express'd, that they would do him a great kindness to give him a little Gun-powder, to be reveng'd for the incursions which Sulthan Mahomet had made into his Territories, the Ambassa∣dors sent him a Barrel that weigh'd 80. pounds.

The return of our Mehemandar, who came back the same day, made us the more joyfull, in that he assur'd us, that within 15. dayes, there should be brought us out of Scamachie and Derbent such a number of Wagons, Camels, and Horses, as that nothing should retard our journey any longer.

According to this promise, the 12. there came in some Horses and Camels, but we heard of no more afterwards. The Mehemandar excused himself upon the Snow that had fallen the night before, and said, that the Persians were wont to travel in the cold, and that the Camels whose hoofs are not so falt as those of other Creatures, would not have been able to go by rea∣son of the slipperiness of the way. Whereto he added, that it had hapned, that whole Cara∣vans had perish'd, through cold, in the Mountains, for want of Wood and Lodging, which are very scarce upon that Road, though there be but twenty Leagues, or Farsangs, from Niasabath to Scamachie. True it is indeed, that for some nights we had Snow, but the Sun melted it as soon as he appear'd over the Horizon. But how ere it happen'd, we were forc'd to stay there ten dayes longer; which made us imagine that what was done was out of design, purposely to defer our departure thence, till they should receive the Orders which they expected from the Sophy concerning our subsistence; for till then we had been upon our own charge.

During our stay at Niasabath,* 1.28 the Ambassador Brugman would needs cut some certain beams, which the Sophy had, wich vast charge, brought to the Sea-side, to be employ'd in the building of his ships, and cause Carriages to be made thereof for our Artillery, not regarding the Re∣monstrances of the Persians, who told him, that if he made use of those beams, the ••ophy could not build his ships that year. The Ambassador went on in his intended design, and told those of our Retinue, who would have disswaded him from it, that it was the humour of that Nation, not to do any thing till they are forc'd to it, and that the only way was to domineer over them. But the Persians had afterwards the advantage to laugh at us, when they furnish'd us with so few horses, that being not able to draw our Artillery, we were forc'd to leave our Carriages behind, and to load our Guns upon Camels.

Decemb. 21. there came to us two Mehemandars, one from Scamachie, the other from Der∣bent, bringing along with them about forry Camels, thirty Waggons drawn by wild Oxen, and eighty Horses, which being loaden with the Baggage, went before, with some of our ser∣vants. But when the Ambassadors themselves were to go, and that what belong'd to their Chambers and the Kitchin was to be pack'd up, there were but sixty Horses left for all the rest of the Retinue, which was 94. persons. The Mehemandar swore by the head of his King (which is the greatest Oath among the Persians) that he could not possibly find any more, telling us, that while we were within the Government of the Sulthan of Derbent, whom, with∣out any occasion, we must needs disoblige, we were not to hope any better treatment, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 that as soon as we were come within the Government of Scamachie, we should not want any thing requisite for the prosecution of our journey, if in the mean time we could pluck up a good heart, and set our selves once in the way.

Hence it came, that upon the 22. of December we were forc'd to depart, some on Hors-back, some behind them, and the rest, to wit, the Lacqueys, the Guards, and the Soldiers, afoot. Our way lay South-ward along the Caspian Sea,* 1.29 and we cross'd that day four small Rivers. The first place we Lodg'd at was the Village of Mordou, within the Government of Scamachy, somewhat above four Leagues from Niasabath. The houses there were all round, and built up of Ozier and Canes, as those of the Tartars. The Inhabitants call them Ottak. The nights were cold enough, and there was no Wood in the Village, so that we spent our time there uneasily enough, especially those, who had wetted themselves by going through the water afoot.

The word Mordou signifies a Fen, and the Village derives its name from the Fenny places which lye about it, wherein there are many Springs, which send forth their water with such violence, that there is no cold so great as to congeal them. Whence it comes, that there are abundance of Swans there, even in the Winter, whose down is gather'd for the Sophy's Beds and Pillows.* 1.30 This Village is inhabited by a certain people whom they call Padars, who have their particular language, though with some relation to the Turkish and Persian. Their Religi∣on is the Mahumetane, inclining to the Turkish, but accompany'd besides with infinite Super∣stitions. Among others they have this, that they leave their meat after it is dressed, to grow almost cold before they eat it, and if it happen that any one, ignorant of their customs, should blow or breath upon it, they cast it away as impure.

The Ambassador Brugman sent for the Kaucha or Bayly of Niasabath, and complain'd to him of the ill Offices done us by the Sulthan of Derbent, in not allowing the Carriage necessary for the prosecution of our Voyage; insomuch that he was oblig'd to see some part of his Reti∣nue, whom he lov'd as his own eyes, go afoot, and likely to miscarry by the way, of which proceeding he should give the Sophy a full accompt as soon as he came to Court. The Kaucha made answer, that it must needs be, the Sulthan knew not we had so much Baggage; but said withall, that he could not imagine what pleasure we took in carrying along with us Sails, brass Guns, and Carriages, which could only put us to trouble, and retard our journey, and that if the Ambassador did put up his complaints, the Sulthan for his part would easily find out wayes to justifie himself. The next day, our Mehemandar brought us twenty horses more, so that having lessen'd our Baggage by certain Chests and useless Vessels, which were ordered to be broken, we made a shift to set all our people on Horse-back. We travell'd that day three leagues, and came at night to the Village of Tachousi, which lies in a bottom, and hath very handsome Houses.

The 24. we got three Leagues further,* 1.31 and came to the high Mountain of Barmach, at the foot whereof we took up our quarters, in a great Court, which was all open, and had only the four bare Walls. The Persians call those places Caravanseras, and they are as the Ventas in Spain, and serve for Inns upon the High-way, in the deserts of Persia. They are within a dayes Journey one of another, for the greater convenience of Travellers, who are oblig'd to bring along with them Provisions and Forrage for Horse and Man, for you find in them, at the best, but Chambers and Halls, and those not furnish'd with any thing, and have only a Roof to keep you dry.

The Waggoners and Mule-drivers of Derbent made a shew as if they would have return'd, and have left us there, to stay till other conveniences of Riding and Carriage were brought us from Schamachie: but finding, on the other side, that the Ambassadors had ordered the Drums to be beaten to bring their people together, and that command was issued out that all should march a-foot, and abandon the Baggage, to be made good at their perils who refus'd to supply them with necessary carriages, they chang'd their resolution, and staid.

The Caravansera was a very antient structure, all built with large Free-stones, being forty two paces square. Over the Gate, there were two Chambers, where we found certain Inscrip∣tions and Hebrew Letters, and some Characters, which none in the company could either read or comprehend.

The 25. being Christmas day, we did our Devotions in the great Stable which was appointed for the Camels; which done, some of our retinue had the curiosity to go and take a view of the Mountain, induc'd thereto by the maraculous relations which the Persians had made us thereof by the way.

This Mountain lies within a quarter of a League of the Caspian Sea,* 1.32 and, by reason of its ex∣traordinary height, is seen at a very great distance. It is in a manner round, having on the very top of it a great Rock streight up, and very steepy of all sides, from which it hath the name of Barmach, that is, finger: because it looks like a finger stretch'd out above the other adjacent Mountains. We understood since, that there is a path, which will commodiously enough bring one to the top of it, but we knew it not then, so that we ran great hazard of our Lives in getting up by dreadful precipices.

It was so cold upon the Mountain, that the Grass, which was high enough there, was all co∣ver'd with a white frost as with Sugar-candy, whereas at the foot of the Mountain, near the

Caravansera, the weather was fair and mild. Upon the edge of the Mountain, and at the foot of the Rock, there is a plain of about fifty perches square, which hath in the midst of it, a very fair Well, built about with stone, and about that Well may be seen the ruins of a very thick Wall, flank'd at the corners with certain Towers and Bulwarks, wherewith that structure had sometime been fortify'd, as also with two good deep ditches built about with Free-stone, which satisfy'd us they were the ruins of an impregnable Fortress. Towards the Northern part of the Mountain,* 1.33 we met with other ruins, which could be no other than the remainders of another Fort. They facilitated our access to an ascent, which was cut in the Rocks, and con∣ducted us almost up to the Top, where we saw a Vault, and the remainder of a third Structure, which had sometimes serv'd for a Dungeon, or place of retreat, after the loss of the two other Forts.

I imagine that this may have been one of those Fortifications,* 1.34 which the Antients called Portae Caspiae, or Ferreae, whereof there is a description in the Greek and Latin Histories. The Persians are of opinion, that these structures were built by Iscander, so they call Alexander the Great, and that they were demolish'd by Tamberlane. We rested out selves upon the Rock, where we sung Te Deum, and renew'd among our selves the friendship, which we had before mutually promis'd each other by most unfeigned protestations: and having gather'd cer∣tain Figs off the Trees, which grew out of the clefts of the Rock, we got down again with less trouble and danger, by the ordinary path.

The 26. we left Barmach, having very fair weather, the Sun casting at that time a greater heat than it does with us in May. The Waggons, with the Baggage, took the way of the plain towards Bakuje, and the Ambassadors, with those of the retinue, who were on Horse-back, took that of the Mountain. We Travell'd that day five leagues, and came at night to a Village named Chanega, within the Mountains. There, we met with abundance of excellent Fruits, and good store of Honey; but the water thereabouts was troubled, corrupted, and stunk.

The next day,* 1.35 Decemb. 27. we got five Leagues further, to a Village named Pyrmaraas, three Leagues from Scamachie. This place is very famous, by reason of one of their Saints named Scid-Ibrahim, whose Sepulchre is to be seen there. The Persians affirm it to be very an∣tient, and so great a Veneration had for it, that Tamberlane, who had no religious respect for any thing, would not meddle with that Sepulchre, though he destroy'd all else that lay in his way. This structure hath its Walls, and its two Courts, as a Castle. Our Ambassadors sent the Mehemandar to the Guardian of the place, to entreat him, that they might be permitted to enter; but all they could obtain, was only to see the first Court, which was full of square stones, which were set up-an-end, to distinguish the Graves of private Persons.

I had a great desire to get a little nearer,* 1.36 and, if it were possible, to see the Saint's Sepulchre. Whereupon, I return'd thither in the Evening, and set down in my Table-Book the Arabian Inscriptions, which I found Grav'd here and there upon the Walls. The Persians, who ima∣gin'd what I did was in honour of their Saint, suffer'd me to proceed in what I was about. I made my advantage of that liberty to slip in at the Gate of the second Court, where I found many other Inscriptions. I bestow'd about half an hour in Copying them out, and perceiving they took no further notice of me, I ventur'd so far as to open the Door which goes into the structure it self, which being made fast only with a wooden pin, it was no hard matter for me to open it, and to get in. It consisted of many arched apartments, which had no light, but what came in by certain little Windows, which put me into a little fright. In the first apartment, there was, just opposite to the door, a Tomb about two foot high, having as many steps to get up to it, and it was encompass'd with a Balcony, or rather an Iron-grate.

On the left hand, there was a door which led into a great and very lightsome Gallery, the walls whereof were whitened, and the floor cover'd with rich Carpets. On the right hand, there were, in another apartment, which was Vaulted, eight high Tombs: and it was through this last Vault, that people pass'd into a third, in which was the Sepulchre of Seid-Ibrahim. The Tomb was two foot above ground, and was cover'd with a Carpet of yellow Damask. At the head and feet, as also on both sides, there were several Wax Candles and Lanthorns, upon great brass Candlesticks, and from the Roof of the Vault there hung certain Lamps. As I came out of this place, I met with our Minister, who express'd so great a desire to go into it, that I ventur'd once more to go in along with him; and he went in thither a second time along with our Physician.

About two Musket shot from the Village,* 1.37 on the East-side, there is to be seen, in a Rock, the Sepulchre of another Saint, which is very sumptuously built. The Persians call the Saint who is interr'd in that place Tirbabba, and they affirm he was Master to Scid-Ibrahim, who had so great an Affection, and so particular a Reverence for him, that he made it his request to God, that he would vouchsafe, that, after his Death, he might be seen in the same posture as he was wont to put himself into, when he did his Devotions in his Life time; and that according∣ly he is to be seen at this day clad in a grey Garment kneeling, which was his ordinary gesture

when he said his Prayers, while he lived. Which a man need make no great difficulty to believe, if there may be any credit given to what is affirmed by Camerarius, in his Historical Medita∣tions, after Varro, and Ammianus Marcellinus, to wit, that the Bodies of the Persians are not corrupted, and that they are only dry'd up: I am of opinion, that this is to be understood only of such Bodies as are not interr'd, but expos'd to the Air, nay it is further requisite they should be Bodies brought very low either by age or sickness: for full Bodies are subject to cor∣ruption, in Persia as well as other places

These two places are very famous by reason of the Pilgrimages upon which the Persians resort thither, especially about the time that Tiribabba hath a new Garment bestow'd on him, and that the old one is torn to pieces, to be distributed among the Pilgrims. The Inhabitants of the Country relate strange things of the Miracles of these Saints: but in regard they can be no other than Fables, or the effects of Sorcery, and that the Persians are very apt to believe any stories, and are very much inclin'd to Sorcery, I thought it more discretion to wave the relation of their impertinences.

Upon the door of this Sepulchre, there was this Inscription in Arabick Letters, Alla mufe∣thi hibebuad, that is to say, O God, open this door. There are cut within the Rock several Cham∣bers, Neeches, and Holes, in which the Pilgrims are lodg'd and do their Devotions; nay there are some so high, that they must have Ladders of 12. or 15. foot long to get up to them.

There were three of us ventur'd to get up to the top of the Rock by dreadful precipices, help∣ing one the other as we got up. There we found four spacious Chambers, and, within, several Neeches cut in the Rock, to serve for Beds. But what we thought most strange was, that we found in that Vault,* 1.38 upon the very top of the Mountain, Muscle-shels, and in some places such abundance of them, as would induce a man to imagine, that the Rock was made up of sand and shels. In our return from Persia, we observ'd all along the Caspian Sea, several of these shelly Mountains. whereof we shall give a further accompt hereafter.

The Inhabitants of this Village of Pyrmaraas never drink any Wine, out of a fear, as they say themselves, that, breaking the Laws of Mahomet and the Directions of the Alchoran, the Holiness of the place might be thereby prophan'd. At the entrance of the Village, near the Se∣pulchre of Seid-Ibrahim there is a great Vault, or Cestern of 52. foot in length and twenty in breadth, compass'd with a wall of Free-stone, which in the Winter time they fill with Water, Snow and Ice, to be us'd in the great heats and drought of Summer, as well for themselves as their Cattel.

The 29. the Chan sent us word, that we might send our Harbinger to Schamachie, to take up Lodgings for us, and that we might follow him in the afternoon. But after we had loaded part of our Baggage, and just as we were going to take Horse, the Chan sent an express Messen∣ger to us, to intreat us to continue that night at Pyrmaraas. And that we might be assur'd, this was not done out of any design upon us, he sent us several refreshment, and among other things, four great Pitchers, and two Leathern baggs full of Wine, good store of Pomegra∣nates, Apples, Pears, Quinces and Chest-nuts, and to each of the Ambassadors an excellent Horse sadled and bridled.* 1.39 We could not then imagine what might occasion this delay; but it was told us afterward, that the Minatzim, or Astrologer, belonging to the Chan, had per∣swaded him, that that day was not a fortunate day to receive strangers in.

The next day,* 1.40 Dec. 30. we left Pyrmaraas, about eight in the Morning, taking our way straight to Schamachy, into which we made a very noble entrance. Within two leagues of the City, we met with one afoot, who came to tell us, from the Chan, that we were welcom, and that he would come out of the City in person to receive us. This man march'd on still in the front of our Cavalcade. Within a league of the City, we met with about thirty Gentlemen on horse-back, very well mounted, who came only to take a view of us, and immediately re∣turn'd, in full speed, to the City. After this, we met, near a certain Village, with about a hun∣dred men on horse-back, who open'd, to make us way to pass through them.

About two Musket-shot thence we met with another Troop of Cavaliers, among whom there were tweleve that had a particular Coiffure about their heads, having their Turbants point∣ed upwards like the Spire of a Steeple, which they call Takia; and we were told it was by Pri∣vilege that they were so dress'd, it being to signifie that they were of the posterity and kinred of their Prophet Aaly. These saluted us with a low inclination of the head, and bid us wel∣come, by saluting us with their Chosckeldi, in the Turkish Language, which they would rather speak than the Persian.

Having kept company with these about half a League, we perceiv'd on our right hand a bo∣dy of about 500. men; and whereas we were told, that the Chan and his Calenter, or Lieutenant, were there in person, it was taken into consideration, whether we should keep on in the High∣way, or turn aside and make-towards them. The Ambassador Brugman would have had us keep on in the High-way, which led streight to the City, alleging that it was the Chan's duty, who receiv'd us, and who ought to be his own Master of the Ceremonies, to come to us. But

our Mehemandar, and others of the Company assuring us, that the High-way was very deep and dirty, and that the fields were more fit for the reception of the Ambassadors, and the Com∣plements and Ceremonies occasion'd thereby,* 1.41 they prevail'd with us, so that we went streight towards the Chan, who stay'd for us upon a little Hill, and advanc'd towards the Ambassadors, as soon as he perceiv'd them coming up. He had on his right hand six men, very proper per∣sons, Arm'd with gilt Bows and Arrows; on his left, as many of his Guard, with their Mus∣kets, and after him came a very great number of Gentlemen on Horse-back, very well mount∣ed, and clad in Garments of Brocado, and Mantles and Caps embroider'd with Gold and Silver. Being come up to us, he would needs do our Nation the greatest honour imaginable, which was by taking the Ambassadors one after the other by the hand, contrary to the custom of the Per∣sians. The first Complements over, he commanded Wine to be pour'd into a silver Vessel, drunk to the Ambassadors, and oblig'd each of them to pledge him twice.

The Calenter, and Muscovian Poslanick, Alexei Sauinouits, who were about the Chan, bid us also heartily welcom, and took us by the hand.

As we march'd along, we had before us our loud Musick, which consisted in Hawboyes, Timbrels, Cornets, and Tabours, but particularly in a kind of Instrument, called Kerrenai. These are made somewhat like our Hawboyes, save that they are of Brass, being above eight foot in length, and at the extremity, above two foot Diameter. There were four of these In∣struments, and those who play'd on them made a halt ever and anon, and stood in a Circle as our Trumpeters, holding up the end of their Kerrenai to the sky, and making a noise, which hath not only nothing of harmony in it. but is more like a dreadful howling than any thing of Musick. There were also common Hawboyes, which they call Surnatzi, and earthen Tim∣brels, made like our Butter-pots. Having march'd on a little way in this Company, the Chan ordered all to make a second halt, that the Ambassadors might drink, causing in the mean time, a certain Buffoon, or Jeaster, one of those whom they call Tazusch, to make wry-faces, and shew a thousand postures. He also used Castagnets, and sung very pleasant songs.

Within a quarter of a League of the City, there was a body or battalion of above two thou∣sand foot, most Armenians. This battalion consisted of five Regiments, distinguish'd one from the other by so many Colours, which were fasten'd to the top of a great and long Pole, so as that it was as much as a man could do to carry one of them. They had their particular musick, consisting of Pipes and other Instruments, one whereof was very remarkable, and consisted of two brass Basins, which they struck one against the other. All these people bid us also very welcome, and express'd their joy at our arrival, some by clapping their hands, others by turn∣ing their Caps about their heads, or flinging them up into the air. There the Governour commanded a third halt to be made, that the Ambassadors might drink once more. Coming near the City-Gate, we were entertain'd with another band of musick, consisting of Timbrells. Hawboyes, Trumpets, and other Instruments, which joyning with those of our Company made such a noyse as would have drown'd Thunder it self.

The Chan invited the Ambassadors with the chiefest of their Retinue to Supper, and made them cross the Court on horse-back, till they came to the Lodgings into which they were to go; but the Gentlemen, and the rest of the Retinue were oblig'd to alight at the outer Gate. The floors of all the Chambers were cover'd with very rich Tapistry. The Persians took off their shooes before they went into the Chambers; which put us to so much the greater trouble, in that being all, in riding-boots, we durst not venture to go in, till some of the Chans Do∣mesticks took some of the more forward by the hand and brought them in; without putting us to the trouble of pulling off our Boots.

We pass'd through three very fair Chambers, and were brought into a spacious Hall very sumptuously furnish'd, and hung with excellent pieces of Painting, representing those parts which are not commonly seen naked. In the midst of the Hall, there was a Fountain, the cast of the water representing the form of a Glass. They had set, to cool, all about the Fountain, several silver Flaggons, and Bottles of Wine; and there were several Tables cover'd with all sorts of Conserves,* 1.42 The Governour knowing we were not accustomed to sit down after the Persian way, had caused seats to be made, and the more to oblige the Ambassadors, he sate down, after our way of sitting, opposite to the Fountain, causing the Ambassadors to sit down on his right hand, and on his left, but upon the ground, the Calenter or Lieutenant, the Mi∣natschim or Astrologer, his Physician, and several other persons of Quality. The Gentlemen and Officers belonging to the Ambassadors sate down on the floor, the other side of the Hall.

The Musicians stood before the Chan. At the entrance of the Hall there were several young men, very handsom persons, having on Garments of Brocado, with their Bows and Ar∣rows in the posture of shooting. All that were in the Hall, whether sitting or standing, had their backs to the Wall, and their faces towards the Chan and the company, so as that not one had his back turn'd to another, according to the ordinary custom, which they observe in all their Assemblies.

There were brought to the Company several little Tables cover'd with Fruits and Conserves, to be serv'd to two at a time, while two Pages went round the Hall to fill Wine, it being all they had to do,* 1.43 unless it were, when they had ended one round, to begin another. After eve∣ry one had eaten some few Conserves, they were taken away, and the like Tables were cover'd with a very fine Cotton-cloath of several colours, to serve the Meat upon. About an hour af∣ter, the Meat was taken away, and Conserves were served up again, and after that began the Preparatives for Supper. The little Tables were taken away, that the whole Hall might be cover'd, upon the Tapistry, with great pieces of Linnen, which were to serve for a kind of Table-cloath. The Butler having done his duty, the Carver comes in with a great Wooden Dish full of a certain thin bak'd Past.* 1.44 The Persians call it Iucha, and every piece is above three foot in length, and as many in breadth. He calst one of them to every one of the Company, to serve instead of a Napkin. That done, the Meat was brought in, in great Pewter Dishes, which were set in the midst of the Hall, where the Suffretzi, or Carver, kneeling down, cut it into pieces, and dispos'd it into little Dishes, whereof every one had one brought him.

All the Guests had every one standing by them a Tulsdan,* 1.45 or Pot to spet in, made as our Chamber-pots, save that the mouth is narrower; and they make use of them instead of a Basin to spet in, as also to put in the bones, parings, and cores of fruits, and other superfluities, which might injure the Tapistry or the floor.

We had Musick, while we were at Meal. The Musick consisted of Lutes and Viols, very poorly pla••d on; as also of Tabours and Voices, which made a wretched kind of Harmony. The two Pages who had fill'd the Wine at the Collation, danc'd to the sound of all these Instru∣ments: so that they seem'd as if they would give us a taste of the delights of the Terrestial Pa∣radise, a••••er the hardship we had suffer'd since our coming from Moscou. The Governour's Palace lyeth upon the ascent of a little Hill, whence might be discover'd all the houses about the City; and he had commanded all the Inhabitants to set a row of Lamps in their windows, which represented to our eyes above twenty thousand Stars, enough to dispel the greatest dark∣ness of the night, and added much to the divertisement, which they endeavoured to give all our senses, while the Musick of the Hawboyes and Timbrels made all the Rampiers of the City to resound again.

The Governour,* 1.46 desirous to let the Ambassadors see how expert he was in shooting, bid them observe one of the Lamps that stood near them, to see whether he struck it out with the first Musket-shot: which he did twice together, without missing any one time. This Feast ha∣ving lasted till it was somewhat late in the night, and that we began to think it a little cold, the Governour carry'd us into another Room with a fire in it,* 1.47 where he call'd for Conserves, Wine, and Aquavitae, which the Persians were so greedy of, that one of them, a person of quality, who never had drunk any before, and would needs do it out of complyance to us, took so much of it, that the next day he was found dead in his bed.

After this treatment, which lasted till midnight, the Chan permitted us to withdraw, and assign'd us Lodging among the Armenians, because they were Christians; but in regard our Hosts had had no notice of our coming, and that our Baggage was not yet arriv'd, we found neither Beds, nor Benches, nor Tables, so that after so good a Supper, we had a very ill night of it.

The last day of December, the Chan sent the Ambassadors several refreshments, Wine, wild Fowl, and other Provisions. The Calenter or Lieutenant ordered to be allow'd us for our day∣ly Provision, seventeen Sheep, twenty Pullers, a hundred Eggs, a certain quantity of Salt, and Bread, fifty quarts of Wine, and twenty burthens of Wood. This was very punctually ob∣serv'd for the four or five first dayes; but the Mehemander being oblig'd to get in these Pro∣visions out of the neighbouring Villages, which he could not so procure but that it was some∣times three or four dayes ere we could get our allowance, the Chan sent us word, that it were more for our convenience to send to the Market for our Provisions, and that we might be assur'd, that what we laid out should be reimburs'd at our departure thence. To that purpose, he caus'd it to be Proclaim'd by sound of Trumpet, that all Provisions should be sold to the Fren∣qui (for so they call the Germans, as well as the French, Italians, and Spaniards) at a rea∣sonable rate.

We continu'd three full moneths at Scamachie, expecting orders from the Court for our ex∣pence, and the prosecution of our journey. The Governour and Calenter endeavour'd what they could, in the mean time, to make this long stay of ours there the less ••eadious by the continual entertainments they made us, as also by the divertisements of Hunting, and the Visits they of∣ten gave the Ambassadors, together with the frequent Presents they sent them of Wine, wild∣fowl, and fruits.

M.DC.XXXVII.

We began this year with the Ceremonies of the Persian Gentleman's Enterrment, who had

kill'd himself by his excessive drinking of Aquavitae,* 1.48 at the first Entertainment, which the Go∣vernour had given us, the day of our arrival. We shall have occasion hereafter to speak of the Ceremonies of their Enterrments, and therefore shall give no futher accompt of it here, than that ordinarily the Bodies are carried into the Metzid, Mosquey or Church, whence they are af∣terwards transported to Babylon, Kufa, or Netschef, to be interr'd near their Prophet Aaly, or near some other of their Imans, or Saints.

Ianuary 2. the Governour and the Calenter visited the Ambassadors, and brought along with them, Conserves and Wine, for the Collation. The Chan's design was, to hear our Musick, whereof he had heard much talk; and accordingly, he was so taken therewith, that he impor∣tun'd the Ambassadors to go and sup with him at the Castle, and to bring their Musick along with them. It consisted of a Violin, a Base-Viol, a Bandore, and a Voice. The Ambassadors would at first have put him off, but his instances were such, that they could not possibly do it; insomuch that we pass'd away the remainder of that day, in the same Divertisements as he had entertain'd us with the first day of our arrival. Only there was this extraordinary, that the Governour ordered to be brought out of the Stable some of his best Horses, to the number of twenty seven, among which there were three, which the Sophy had sent him, not long before, as so many assurances of his favour. He caus'd one of the Gentlemen belonging to his Chamber to mount them all, and to take several turns thereon about the Hall, though the floor were co∣ver'd with very rich Tapistry.

Ian. 5. the Chan sent the Ambassadors word, that if they were desirous to be present, the next day, at the Ceremonies performed by the Armenians at the Consecration of their Holy-water, at which he should himself be in person, he would order a particular place to be kept for them. The Armenians call this feast Chatschae Schuran, that is the Baptism of the Cross.

The Ceremonies are performed without the City,* 1.49 near a Bridge called Puli Amberi. The Armenians celebrate this Feast, as do also the Muscovites and some other Christians, upon the sixth of Ianuary, which is the day of the Epiphany, or appearance of the Star to the Kings or Wise-men. They began it with a Mass, which was said betimes in the morning before day. After Mass there was a Sermon preach'd, the former being said in a manner with the same Ce∣remonies as the Roman-Catholicks do it in Europe.* 1.50 The Ambassadors, whose Lodgings were near the Chapel of the Armenians, made no difficuly to be present at both Mass and Sermon; and after the latter, they were Complemented by the Bishop who had Preach'd it, and who came purposely for that Exercise, from the place of his ordinary residence.

He gave them to understand by an Interpreter, how glad he was to see their Devotions ho∣nour'd by the Presence of Persons of that quality, since it could be no small comfort to them, to see in their Churches Europaean Christians, who had never come into them before. Whereto he added, that their Excellencies the Ambassadors knew not who he was, but that he should find a time to acquaint them therewith: from which Discourse of his we inferr'd, that he was some Missionary of the Pope's, sent into these parts, to endeavour the Re-union of the Gre••k Church with the Roman.

He further intreated the Ambassadors, to use their Mediation to the Governour, that they might be permitted to carry on the building of a Monastery, which the Armenians had begun; which they promised to do.

About noon the Armenians, by order from the Governour, brought us fifteen Horses, upon which we rode to the River, which is about half a League from the City. Those poor people, who were come to the City from all the adjacent Villages, went out of it in Procession, with abundance of Images, Crosses and Banners, guarded to the River-side by a strong part of Soldi∣ers, which the Governour had assign'd them, for their Protection against the injuries and af∣fronts of the Mussulmans, or Mahumetans, who make it thier sport to abuse them. The Go∣vernour had caus'd a Tent to be pitch'd over against the place, where the Consecr••tion was to be performed, very richly hung with Tapistry, and had ordered a sumptuous Collation to be made ready in it. There were on his left hand the Muscovian Poslanick, and a great number of Gentlemen, and the right he had kept void for the Ambassadors, and some of their retinue. After he had receiv'd us,* 1.51 and made us sit down, he commanded the Armenians to begin their Ceremonies. As soon as they begun Reading, at the River-side, four men, stark naked, leap'd into the water, and swum up and down for a certain time, to open the water, which was a little frozen over. One of our Spaniels, which was wont to go into the water, leap'd in after them: which found the Persians excellent sport, who look upon a Dog as so unclean a kind of Creature, that they would not willingly one should touch them; insomuch that they laugh'd to see the Ceremonies of the Armenians prophan'd by our Water-Dog; though indeed they look on all those poor people do as so much mummery. On∣ly the Governour himself makes his advantage thereof, inasmuch as the pains he takes to be pre∣sent thereat, and consequently to protect those of that Profession, brings him in yearly a Pre∣sent of a thousand Crowns from their Churches.

After the Bishop had read for an hour or better, and the Assembly given over singing and playing on the Timbrels, he pour'd a little Consecrated Oyl into the Water, into which he afterwards dipp'd a little Cross beset with abundance of Precious Stones, and at last, holding his Crosier over the Water, he gave it his Benediction.

After that Ceremony, all the Armenians took of it, some to drink, others to wash their faces withall. There were some among them cast themselves into it, but most took only so much of it as to sprinkle their faces therewith. Some of the Governours Domesticks made it their sport to dash the Priests and the Women, nay some were so uncivil with them, that the Chan himself was asham'd of it, and oblig'd to command them to forbear their rudenesses: though he himself made his Jester and others of his Servants Dance, purposely to abouse the Armenians, who Danced about their Bishop. The Governours Physician, who was an Ara∣bian born, and a person of no Religion, had the Impudence to ask the Ambassadors, what they thought of Iesus Christ, and whether they believ'd him to be the Son of God. Answer was made him, that they believ'd him to be the True God, but that it was uncivilly done of the Physician to laugh at their Religion, and that they were not come thither to dispute it with him.

All the Ceremonies being over, they fell very seriously a-drinking, and the Governour took his Liquor so liberally, that being well nigh Drunk, he left the Company, and got on Hors-back, without taking leave of any one. All the rest of the Persians follow'd him; which we were so much the more surpriz'd at, inasmuch as, not acquainted with their custom, we could not imagine what should be the reason of his going away: Being got on Horse-back, in order to our return for the City, we met with the Governour, who staid for the Ambassadors not far from the Tent. We understood afterwards, and indeed found it by exprience, that the Persians think it not much, to rise from Table, and go their ways, without making Excuse or Com∣plement to those by whom they were entertain'd, who for their parts take the same privilege to do the like with those whom they had invited, when they find themselves in such a condition as that they are not able to keep them company any longer. Of this we had man instances, du∣ring our aboad in Persia, and that sometimes, at the Schach's own Table.

Ianuary 9. the Armenian Bishop gave the Ambassadors a Visit. He came to their Lodgings with the Cross and Banner, having many Priests marching before him, who were all in their Pontifical Robes, with Wax-Candles in their hands. As they came into the Court, they fell a singing and playing on their Timbrels, Hawboies, and little Bells, and brought us a present of two Pitchers of Wine, and a dish of Apples, in the midst whereof they had planted a Wax-Candle lighted. They were above three hours in discourse with the Ambassadors, concerning the business of their Religion, and when they took leave of them, they re-iterated the intreaty they had made to them before, of employing their intercession to the Governour, for the build∣ing of their Church.

Ian. 10. The Calenter, or King's Lieutenant, entertain'd the Ambassadors and all their reti∣nue at a very great Feast:* 1.52 but before we sate down, he would needs give us the satisfaction to see his Palace, which was incomparably both better built and furnish'd than the Governour's. The Hall, where we were to Dine, was all arched and set out with a certain Plaister-work done in Leaves and Branches, which argu'd much the Ingenuity of the Inventor. The Hall looked into a very spacious and very fair Garden; the situation whereof, we thought so much the more advantageous, in that the Hall being high, and the Garden very low, it might be all seen out of the Windows thereof. On one side of the Hall there was a Gallery, out of which issu'd a Fountain, which casting its water at first very high, charm'd us with a low, but delighful noise, which the water thereof made by falling into another lower Basin opposite to a Chamber under the Hall, and thence into a third which was in the midst of the Garden. The Governour, who was also at this entertainment, with the chiefest of his Courtiers, had brought thither along with him the Marshal of the Sophy's Court, who was then newly come from Ispaban. The Feast lasted till night, which being somewhat dark the Persians brought us to our Quarters with Torches: though they themselves were so well furnish'd, as to stand in need of conductors, at least as much as we did.

The 18. of Ianuary,* 1.53 the Ambassadors sent the Steward of their Houshold, the Secretary of the Embassy, and the Controller, to the Chan, to make him the ordinary Present, which was, ten Ells of Scarler, five Ells of blew Satin, a Barrel of Aquavitae, a Chest, or Cellar, in which they sent him two dozen Bottles of all sorts of Spirits of Wine, and two pair of Knives, the hafts whereof were of Amber. This Present put him into so good an Humour, that we thought it a seasonable time,* 1.54 to present to him the Petition of the Armenians, concerning the Build∣ing of their Church.

In answer to which, he told, us that although, ever since the establishment of the Mahumetan Religion in Persia, the Christians never were permitted to build a Church at Schamachie, and that accordingly, it never had been his intention to suffer the Armenians to 〈◊〉〈◊〉 any; yet such was the respect he had for the Intercession of the Ambassadors in their behalf, that they

might assure themselves, he would no longer oppose it: and that they might have no occa∣sion to doubt his reality herein, he would needs have the Orders for that purpose dispatch'd in their presence.

The Armenians were so over-joy'd thereat, that, not thinking it enough to give the Ambas∣sadors their humblest thanks, they promised so to order things, that their intended Structure should acquaint posterity with their Names, and the Good Offices they had done them upon that occasion.

Ian. 20. came back the Courier, or Express, whom the Chan had sent to Ispahan, even be∣fore we left Niasabath; upon which the Ambassadors sent to him, to desire him to communi∣cate to them the Orders of the Court, concerning the prosecution of their Journey. Answer was made us, that he had not receiv'd any new Orders at all, and that, if we desired it, we might hear the Letter read, which he thereupon gave his Physician to read. The Physician, a person the fittest in the World to represent a Fool in a play, after he had kiss'd the Letter, put it to his forehead, and at last read it. The Contents of it, at least what he read, was to this effect; That the Express from the Sulthan of Derbent being come to the Court, before him whom the Chan of Schamachie had sent, all the account he had brought, was, that there was arriv'd at Derbent any Envoy, or Poslanick, from the Great Duke of Muscovy, who had re∣ported, that, within a few days, there would come into those parts certain Ambassadors from one of the Princes of Germany: That the Schach, who had receiv'd no other accompt of their arrival, thought it enough to order the Governour of Derbent to receive them, to entertain then kindly, during the stay they should make there, and to supply them with all things for the continuation of their journey, as far as Schamachie, and that when they were come thi∣ther, the Chan of Schamachie should send an Express to give an accompt thereof to the Court, from which he should immediately receive orders what to do, as well in respect of the maintenance of the Ambassadors, as their departure thence. The Chan demanded of us a Cata∣logue of the names and qualities of all of our Retinue; nay, he would have had it express'd in the said Catalogue, what Professions they were of, and that we should not fail setting down, that we had among us a Physician, a Chyrurgeon, a Painter, and Musicians; which we would not do; but thought it sufficient, to give them, in writing, only the names of our people, and the Offices, and employments they were in, upon the accompt of the Embassy. We had a great suspicion that the said Letter came not from the Court, and that there was somewhat more or less in it, and the more to be assur'd of it, we got the Courier to come the next day to our quarters. The Wine we gave him, and the small Presents which were secretly made him, unlock'd the man's breast, and drew out the whole secret. He told us, upon promise of secrecy, that the Governours Brother, having been, not long before executed, and that mis∣fortune having, in some measure, engag'd the whole Family in the disgrace of the deceas'd, there was not any man durst undertake the delivery of his Letter to the Sophy, as being ignorant what the contents thereof might be: but that after a moneths delay, one of the Kings Chamberlains ha∣ving ventured to lay it at his Majesties feet, the Sofi would make no answer at all thereto, but ordered another to write to him, and sent him word, that there was no answer to be made to his Letter, by reason of the orders sent to the Sulthan of Derbent, which were contain'd in the Letter,* 1.55 whereof we had heard the reading. That it was not thought fit to add any thing there∣to, but an express command to the Governour, to see cut to pieces in his presence all those Per∣sians that durst affront or injure the Germans, during the stay they should make in his Go∣vernment. So that we were forc'd to stay there, in expectation of what orders the Sophy should send, upon the Dispatches, which the Chan was then sending to the Court by an Ex∣press.

Ian. 25. the Governour accompany'd by the Poslanick, and a great number of Courtiers, gave the Ambassadors a Visit; but in regard their Lent was already begun he would not participate of our Collation, and so having heard our Musick, he return'd to his own Palace.

Ian. 28. The Muscovian Poslanick went for Ispahan, not well satisfy'd with the treatment he had receiv'd from the Governour and Calenter.* 1.56 All the revenge he could take was upon the Mehemander, who had been assign'd to Conduct him, taking any occasion to affront and a∣buse him. Some of our Retinue accompany'd him a League out of the City, where they took leave of him.

February the fifth,* 1.57 walking abroad with some of our company, we went into a great house near the Market-place,* 1.58 which they call Basar. It was a very noble Structure, having many Galleries and Chambers, like a College. Meeting up and down with several persons, some an∣tient, some young, some walking, some sitting, with books in their hands, we had the curiosity to enquire what place it was, and found that it was a School or College, which they called Man∣dresa, of which kind there are very many all over Persia.

While we were viewing the Structure, one of their Maderis, or Regents, who read publick Lectures, intreated us to come near him, and perceiving that I had caus'd to be graven upon a

Cane I walk'd with all these words in Arabick,* 1.59 Bismi alla, rahman rachim, that is, in the name of the merciful God who sheweth mercy (a sentence which the Persians put at the beginning of their writings) he desired me to bestow it on him, upon a promise that he would give me a better the next day: but finding I made some difficulty to part with it, he cut out the word alla, which in their Language is the proper name of God, and put what he had cut off in a piece of clean paper, very gently and carefully, and told me, the name of God ought not to be written upon a walking stick, which was many times thrust into the dirt.

The next day I went again to the same College, whether I had caus'd to be brought along with me a very fair Celestial Globe, but, by mistake, I went to another School, where never∣theless they receiv'd me very kindly. The Professors and Regents, as also the Students, very much wondred to see me come with so noble a Globe, and to understand thereby, that Astrolo∣gy and the Mathematicks were better taught among us than in Persia, where they are not yet acquainted with the invention of Globes, and make use only of the Astrolabe, for the in∣struction of their Students. They took much delight in viewing my Globe, and they nam'd to me in the Arabian Language all the Signs of the Zodiack, nay, gave me to un∣derstand further, that they knew all the names, and all the significations of most of the other Stars.

Another day,* 1.60 I went into a Metzid, or Church, in that part of the Town where we were quarter'd, to see, how they instructed their Children. They were all sate against the Wall, excepting only the Molla, or Master of the School, who, with some other aged persons, sate in the midst of the Hall. As soon as they saw me coming in, they invited me to sit down by them. The Molla, who had an Alchoran in his hand, very fairly written, suffered me to turn it over awhile, which when I had done, he took it back from me, kiss'd it, at the beggin∣ning, and would have given it me to kiss also: but I only kiss'd another book I had in my hand, and told him, that, knowing well what book I had my self, I made no difficulty to kiss it, but not understanding what was contained in his book, I should not be too forward to honour it so much. He laugh'd and told me I had done very well. There was among them an Arabian na∣med Chalil, who was a Minatsim, or Astrologer, born at Hetsa, near Meca, aged about 65. years. He understood Astrology, and read Enclid to some of his Disciples. I presently knew the book by the figures in it, and made him some demonstations, as well as I could express my self in the Persian Language: whereat the good old man was so much pleas'd, that desirous, on his part, to shew me what he could do, he took out of his bosom a little brass Astrolabe, and ask'd me, whether I had ever seen the like, or understood the use of it. Whereto having an∣swer'd him, that I understood it very well, and that I had one at my Lodging, he seem'd to be very desirous to see it, which oblig'd me to go home to fetch it, and to bring along with me the Globe, which they wondred very much to see, especially when they understood that I had made it my self. The honest Arabian desir'd me to shew him, how I could set down the Degrees so ex∣actly, in regard they have no Instruments wherewith to make their Circles and Degrees. I shew'd him the invention of it, and how in a short time, and with little trouble he might attain thereto, for which discovery, he acknowledg'd himself very much oblig'd to me, insomuch that ever after, he let slipno occasion, whereby he might assure me of his friendship, expressing it as well by his frequent visits, coming one day with abundance of excellent fruit, and dishes of meat ready dress'd purposely to Dine with me at his own charges, as by his earnest proffers of all the service that lay in his power. He gave me the Longitudes and Latitudes of the chiefest Cities and places of all Asia, which I compared with the observations I had my self made thereof, and found them very exact.

The Molla, or Master of the Metzid, was called Maheb Aaly, and was a very young, but mighty good natur'd man, and of an excellent humour, one who did all that lay in his power to serve me, doing me the greatest kindnesses he could upon all occasions, especially in my study of the Arabian Tongue. He brought me also acquainted with a certain friend of his, named Iman∣culi, who was an Ohnbaschi, or Captain of a Troop of Horse. These two came to see me eve∣ry day alternately, as well to teach me their Language as to learn mine. Which they did with very great improvement dayly, especially Imanculi, who no doubt had in a short time arriv'd to the perfection of it, had it not been for the envy or jealousie of some of our own, which prov'd so great, as to make it suspected, that those poor people had some design to change their Religion: so that they were forc'd to keep out of the way, and for the most part to make their visits in the night. Insomuch that one day, to wit, Febr. 11. being gone to the Metzid, to take a Lesson in the Language, there came thither a Persian servant, to tell the Molla, from the Governour, that he much wondred, how he durst suffer those Christians to come into their Temple, that they had nothing to do there, and that it was his best course to dismiss them. The Molla was, at first, a little startled thereat, but upon second thoughts, considering with him∣self, that the Persians are never forbidden the company or conversation of Christians, he doubt∣ed this was some trick put upon him; and having taken the servant aside, he understood from him, that it was not the Chan, but our Interpreter who had sent him, to hinder my study of

the Language. The next day, we had such another Message sent us; but we knew before both the Author and occasion of it, and therefore made no accompt thereof. Some time after, there hapning some difference between the Ambassador Brugman, and our Interpreter, he acknow∣ledg'd, that it was by order from his Excellency, that he had sent the said servant, to hinder my learning of the Language. Upon the same accompt was it that the said Ambassador ordered me to reduce Persia and Turkie into one Map, that so I might be taken off the study of the Lan∣guage, at least as long as I should be employ'd about that teadious and troublesome piece of work.

Febr. 7.* 1.61 the Ambassadors were visited by a Monk, a Roman Catholick, named Ambrosio dos Anios, born at Lisbon in Portugal. The accompt he gave of himself, was, that he came from Tiflis in Georgia, which lies about ten dayes journey from Scanachie, where he was Prior of a Monastery of the Order of St. Augustin, and that he had undertaken that journey out of no other design, than upon the news he had heard, that a Potent Prince of Germany had sent a so∣lemn Embassy into Persia, and that he could not imagine, it should be upon any accompt so much as the advancement of Christian Religion in those parts: That he had been the more wil∣ling to be at the trouble of that journey, out of the hope he had, that their Excellencies the Am∣bassadors, would not take it ill that he had taken the freedom to wait on them; not only to congratulate their happy arrival in Persia, but also to serve them in any thing lay in his power: That he had been seven and twenty years in the Kingdom, and that during so long a Tract of time, he had not been so negligent in inquiring into the affairs of the Countrey, and the hu∣mour of the Nation, as that he might not be in some measure serviceable to them in their Ne∣gotiation.

We knew not, upon the first proposal, what to imagine of the intentions of this Religious Man, and therefore we thought fit to stand as it were upon our Guard, till that after ten dayes conversation with him, we really found him sincere in all his proceedings, insomuch that we made no difficulty to trust him absolutely in all things. Besides the Portuguez, which was his Mother-Tongue, and the Latine, in which he entertrain'd the Ambassadors, he understood also the Georgian, the Turkish, and the Persian Languages, for the attaining of which last, he gave me many excellent directions.

About this time, many of our people were troubled with burning Feavers, which was a con∣sequence of their abundant drinking of Wine, after the much VVater they had been forc'd to drink before. The VVine of Persia is very good, but strong, and our people drunk so freely of it, that the Ambassadors were forc'd to forbid the use thereof by a very strict order. There were two and twenty of them kept their Beds at the same time, but by Gods mercy, and through the extraordinary care of the Physician, not one dyed.

The same day,* 1.62 which is, according to the accompt of the Persians, the 21. day of Ramesan, they celebrated their Auschur, or solemn Feast, in memory of Haly, their great Saint and Pa∣tron. The Ceremonies and Devotions were performed in a House built for that purpose, with∣out the City. The Governour, his Calenter, and the other chief Officers, were in a Gallery of the said House, and opposite to the Gallery, there was an open Chair, about eight foot high, which was plac'd under a piece of Linnen Cloath which had been pitch'd there,* 1.63 for the conveni∣ence of the Chatib, that is, their Prelate, who sat in the said Chair, clad in a blew Garment, which is the Mourning-Colour of that Country. He spent above two hours in reading in a Book, which they call Machtelnama, containing the Life and Actions of Haly, singing with a loud and dolefull, yet clear and intelligible Voice, and that without any intermission, unless it were when he came to some remarkable Passage, or some Moral Sentence, whereof he only said the first Word, leaving the rest to be sung out by the other Priests, whereof there stood a great number about the Chair. One of those Priests cry'd out at the end of every passage, Lua∣net Chudai ber kuschendi Aaly bad, that is, Gods Curse be on him who kill'd Haly: whereto the whole Assembly answer'd, bisch bad kem bad, that is, rather more than less. When he comes to the passage where Haly said to his Children, (there are some believe he was well skill'd in Judiciary Astrology, and that he fore-saw his own Death) that he should not live long, and that it would not be long ere he were kill'd by one of his Domesticks, discovering it should be Abdurraman ibni Meltzem, upon which the Children, with tears in their eyes, intreat him, to be carefull of his Person, and rather to prevent Abdurraman, then suffer them, upon his Death, to become Orphans, destitute of all Comfort, and expos'd to the discretion of their E∣nemies; when the Chathib, I say, comes to this place, you shall see the Persians weep and sob most bitterly; as they do also when the Chathib represents how Haly was kill'd in their Metzid, as he was at Prayers,* 1.64 and the desolate condition his Children were in upon his Death. When the Chathib hath given over Reading, the Chan sends him a Garment of Silk, which he imme∣diately puts on, and then there were conducted, in Procession, three Camels carrying Coffins, cover'd with black Cloath, to represent those of Haly, and his two Sons, Hassan and Hossein. After that follow'd two Chests cover'd with blew Cloath, in which were the Books and spiri∣tual Treatises written by Haly. Then came two excellent Horses, having at the Pommel of

the Saddles, andupon the Saddles, several Bows, Arrows, Turbants, and Flaggs. After them march'd one man alone, carrying upon the top of a long pole a kind of Tower or Steeple, in which there were thrust four Cimiters, but they were cover'd with so many Ribbons, and other Toyes, that they could hardly be perceived: and at last many men carrying on their Heads little Boxes cover'd with Feathers, and Flowers of several colours, in which the Alchoran lay open.

These last Danc'd and Leap'd, in cadence to a certain dolefull Musick of Hawboyes, Timbrels, Flageolets and Tabors. On the other side, many young Boyes Danc'd and Sung together, clapping one another upon the shoulders, and crying Heder, Heder, which is the name of Ha∣ly, Hassan, Hossein; and with these Ceremonies they took their way towards the City. Upon this day the Death of Haly is celebrated all over Persia: but Mahomet, their great Prophet, hath no particular Festival.

The 14. of February, was the new Moon, at which ends the Lent of the Persians, which be∣gan the 16. of Ianuary, which according to their accompt is the first of Ramesan; but in re∣gard it was the eve of their Sabbath,* 1.65 which is Friday, their Ecclesiasticks thought fit to conti∣nue the Fast till that day. The next day after the Feast, the Chan made a great Entertainment for all the Grandees of his Court, to which he invited also the Ambassadors with their retinue, and treated them very Magnificently.

The 27.* 1.66 came back the Courrier, whom the Chan had dispatch'd thence ever since the 21. with express orders for our departure, with the first convenience, for Ispahan. This good news put some of us into an humour to go a Hunting. The Governour lent us his excuses, that, some business of importance intervening, he could not go along with us; however, he sent us his Huntsmen, his Hounds, and his Hawks; as also a Leopard, which, being Excellently well taught, started with as much swiftness as a Grey-hound, and gave us all the satisfaction Hunting could afford. He discover'd no Hare which he took not, and came on at the least call, with more command than any Setting Dog, leaping up behind the person who had the ordering of him. The Chan had in the mean time caus'd a sumptuous Collation to be made ready for us in his own Garden, without the City; but the person he had sent to invite us to pass that way, mist the Company, and overtook us not till we were coming into the City; so that it being too great a trouble for us to go then back again, he sent to our quarters some part of the Meat which had been prepared for our Entertainment.

The first of March,* 1.67 which according to their Almanack, called by them Taguim, is the four∣teenth of Scheual, the Persians celebrated another Feast, which they call Chummehater, in me∣mory of the day, on which Haly took possession of the Estate of his Cousin and Father-in-law Mahomet. The Chan treated us again this day very Magnificently, near the River under a Tent, where, during the time of the Entertainment, he gave us the Divertisements of several sorts of Dances, and among others that of a Youth of about twenty years of age, who Danc'd to the Musick of two little Cimbals, which he himself play'd on excellently well; as also that of a Moor, or black Arabian, who leap'd and danc'd between the Porcelane Dishes, wherein the Meat had been brought up, with such exactness, that he broke not one. Nay, as it should seem, all the people were willing to contribute to our Divertisement, by the publick Acclamati∣ons which fill'd every street: And the Chan himself would needs give us another tryal of his skill at the Bow. He told us that heretofore he had cut a Hair with his Arrow, at a considera∣ble distance, and that he would try, whether he could do as much at the age he was of then, which was forty five years. Having therefore fasten'd to a Horses hair one of those Rings, which the Persians make use of to bend their Bows, and commonly wear them upon their Thumbs, and having caus'd the Boy that held it to stand at the distance of above six paces, he cut it twice one after another with his Arrow. He also, with a Fire-lock, shot an Apple, which he had caus'd to be cast into the Air.

In our return to the City, after an Entertainment which had lasted six hours, all the Officers took occasion, in a spacious plain, to give us a Tryal of the swiftness of their Horses. I must needs confess it is extraordinary, and that there is no English Horse comes near them: but it is certain withall, that this is all they teach them. They also gave us the Divertisement of their Engagements or Horse-back, and their manner of Skirmishing with their enemies, and shew'd us an incredible and miraculous Activity, not only in casting their Switches, which, in that Ex∣ercise, they made use of instead of Javelins, Riding with full speed upon those whom they pursu'd, but also in catching them in their hands when they were cast at them, and immediately Darting them at the pursuers. Of all those engag'd in that Exercise, the Chan's Master of the Horse behav'd himself the best, and had bestow'd on him by way of recompence, one of the best Horses out of his Master's Stable.

The third of March,* 1.68 the Persians celebrated another Feast, which they call Tzar Schembe∣sur, that is, the fourth sad Sabbath, and it is the next Wednesday before the Vernal Equinox, by which they begin their year; of which they are perswaded, that this Wednesday is the most unfortunate day. And this, they say, they know not only by Tradition, but also by Experience,

which hath discover'd to them, that there never happen'd any thing but misfortune to them that day. Thence it comes, that they do not any business that day, they keep their Shops shut, Swear not, nor make any Debauches; but above all things, take they an especial care, not to pay away any Money that day, out of a fear, they should be oblig'd not to do any thing else all the year after. There are some who spend the whole day in telling what Money they have in their Houses: others go, without speaking a word by the way, to the River, for some wa∣ter, wherewith they sprinkle their Houses and Houshold-stuff, thinking by that means to di∣vert the misfortune which might befall them. If they meet with any one of their acquaintance, as they return home-wards, they cast some water into his face with their hands, or haply, pour the whole Pitcher full upon him: but this is a kindness they do only to their best friends, out of a perswasion, that those who are so served, and have their Cloaths all wet, cannot fail being happy all the year after. Young people that are not Married, find also their Divertisement at this solemnity, which is, to walk up and down the Streets, or along the River side, playing upon certain Timbrels of bak'd Earth, which they carry under their arms. Others carry great Staves in their hands, and go up to their knees in the River, to dash those who come to fetch water, either by casting it at them with their hands, or taking hold of them, to wet them, or to rub their faces with the borders of their wet Garments, or haply they break the pitchers with their Staves. These last are look'd upon as ill-presaging Birds, so that those who can keep out of their clutches, think they have avoided many misfortunes that should have happen∣ed to them that year. Upon which accompt it is, that there are some, who to avoid meeting with them, go and fetch in their water before day: but all these fopperies are done only in the morning, for as soon as it is afternoon, they go a walking, and bestow the time in any of their other ordinary Exercises. The Author of the Preface before the High-Dutch Translation of the Kalusthan, says, that this Festival is Dedicated to Saint Iohn Baptist, and that it is in Com∣memoration of his Baptism, that the Persians do all those Ceremonies. True it is indeed, that the Persians have a certain Veneration for that Saint, and that they go, to this day, upon Pil∣grimage to his Sepulchre at Damas, and it may be, that was the intention of him who institu∣ted this Feast; but now, there is no track to be seen of any such thing.

March the tenth,* 1.69 that is, the 20. according to our stile, (for the Author means in all pla∣ces the old) they celebrated the first day of their year, which they call Nauras, with great solemnity. For though they commonly count their years from the Hegira, or the day of Ma∣homet's flight, from Meca to Medina, which is their Epoche, and co-incident with the 16 of Iuly,* 1.70 according to our Almanacks; yet so it is, that, their year, consisting only of twelve Lunar moneths, and consequently being eleven days shorter than ours, they take a certain day for the beginning of their year, which is that, on which the Sun enters Aries, at the Vernal Equinox, in what quarter of the Moon soever it happens; but of this we shall give a further accompt elsewhere.

The Ambassadors sent some of us to the Castle to complement the Chan upon the beginning of the new year, and to wish him a good one. We found him at Table, having near him the Minatzim, or Astrologer, who rose up ever and anon, and taking his Astrolabe, went to observe the Sun, and at the very moment that the Sun came to the Equator, he publish'd the new year, the beginning whereof was celebrated by the firing of some great Guns, both from the Castle and the City-Walls, and at the same time, there might be heard a Musick of all sorts of instruments. Opposite to the Chan sat one of their Orators, whom they call Kasiechuan, who made an Oration, intermixt with more Faces and Gestures than any Player can shew on the Stage, speaking only of the Victories obtained by the Kings of Persia over the Turks, the Vsbeques, and other enemies of that Nation. The remainder of the day was merrily spent in Eating and Drinking, whereof we, who were sent upon the Complement, participated suffi∣ciently, for the Chan would needs oblige us to sit down at Table with him. The Festival lasted till the next day, and then the Chan made a great Entertainment for the Ambassadors, whereto he invited also the Monk I spoke of before.

March 20. the Chan and the Calenter came to see the Ambassadors. They were both gotten sufficiently Drunk, and the occasion of their Visit was this, that the Chan being to take a Journey (as he would make us believe) and not likely to return before our departure thence, he came to tell us, that he thought it unhandsome to go without taking leave of the Ambassa∣dors. He brought along with him his Hakim, or Physician, who had also some smattering in Astrology, as most of that Profession have. His Hakim told him, after he had observ'd the Sky a while, that the Stars signify'd it was an unfortunate hour to go into the Lodgings of the Ambassadors, and upon that Prediction, they sat down in the Court and fell a-drinking. The Chan having taken notice of one of the Ambassador Crusius's Pages, a beautiful and well-tim∣bred Lad, he desir'd him to come near him; which when he had, addressing his speech to the Physician, he ask'd him, whether he did not think him a fine Boy, and wish'd he had been his his own Son. The Physician, having taken another view of the Heavens, though the Air were not very clear, and that it was not near night, made answer, that if, after he had earnestly

view'd the Boy, and by that means Imprinted an Idea of him in his imagination, he went and lay with a Woman, he would certainly get as handsome a Boy as that was. This the Chan and his Company believ'd as an Oracle; insomuch, that having for some time well considered the Page, he got on Horse-back and departed.

There was at Schamachie a Persian slave, named Faruch, who being a Muscovite by Birth, had been stollen and sold into Persia, where he had been circumcis'd, while he was yet very young. He delighted much to be among us, because there were in our retinue some persons who could talk with him in his own Language: insomuch that being, by his often coming to our quarters, grown familiar with some, he came one day to tell us, that we should have a care of our Persian Interpreter,* 1.71 whose name was George Rustan; for, to his knowledge, he had writ∣ten to some of his Friends at Ispahan, to this effect; That, though he had liv'd a long time a∣mong Christians, yet were they not to inferr thence, that he had abjur'd the Mahumetane Re∣ligion; but that he should ere long be with them, to give them further assurances of the con∣trary. Rustan was a Persian born, and had, not many years before, travell'd into England, where he had been Baptiz'd. Some years after, he went into Muscovy, where we found him, in the English Residents retinue, who was his God-father; and coming to hear that we were to go into Persia, he made so many friends, and was so importunate with the Resident, that at last, we gave him leave to go along with us as an Interpreter. Yet was he not receiv'd into our retinue, till he had oblig'd himself by a Writing under his hand, to come back with us, and by many solemn protestations assured us, that his going along with us was out of no other de∣sign, than to look after and receive what was due to him of his Patrimony, that he might have somewhat to Trade withal as a Merchant at his return. Accordingly, we were no sooner come to Ardebil, but we found the truth of what we had been told by Faruch: for, Rustan, as soon as he was got to a place, where he might expiate his pretended sin, and declare himself with safety, he went to the Sepulchre of their great Saint, Schich-Sefi, where he did his De∣votions as a right Mahumetane: which that he had done, he got a formal Certificate. We secur'd him at Ispachan, but he made his escape, and got into the Sanctuary, which they call Alla-Capi. That done, he cast himself at the feet of the King, and the Seter, or Chief of their Sect, express'd his repentance in tears, begg'd Pardon, put himself under the Kings protection, and remain'd in Persia.

March the 22. Father Ambrosio took leave of us, being to return to his Monastery at Tiflis.

March 24. the Chan sent away the New-years gifts, which the Governours are wont to send the King at the beginning of the year, and which were at this time so much the greater, by how much the disgrace and death of his Brother impos'd upon him a necessity of Courting the Kings favour. The Present consisted in a certain number of excellent Horses, richly Harness'd, several Camels loaden with Russia Leather, several rich Stuffs, and thirty bags full of Swan's down: but what augmented the value of this rich Present, was a great number of handsome Boys and Girls, whom he sent along with it. The Chan went himself out of the City, with an intention, as was given out, to conduct the Present two or three leagues: but he returned not, leaving, by that means, upon the Calenter, the trouble of providing all things for the prosecuti∣on of our Journey. Immediately after the Chan's departure, there was sent to our quarters the sum of sixty Tumains, which amount to about a thousand Crowns, by way of re-emburse∣ment for the charges we had been at during our stay at Schamachie.

But, in regard it amounted not to one half of what we might expect, according to the al∣lowance which was assign'd us at our arrival,* 1.72 the Ambassador Brugman, sending us to the Ca∣lenter about other business, charged us to ask him by the way, whether it were upon any or∣der from the King, or out of the Governours kindness towards us, that the said sum had been sent us, and to let him know, that though it was not the intention of the Ambassadors to re∣ceive any money, yet since the Calenter had sent it under his own Seal, they would carry it so seal'd to Ispahan: That they could not forbear complaining of the injury had been done them in keeping them there so long, contrary to the orders they had received from Court, to take the speediest course they could for their departure.

The Calenter made answer, that it lay not upon him to maintain the Ambassadors, and to fur∣nish them with money: That it was not to him their Master had sent them, but to the King, and that it was accordingly by his Majesty's appointment, that he had sent the foresaid sum: That he could not hinder them from making their complaints, but that they should advantage them∣selves nothing thereby: That, for the clearing of himself, he would produce their acquittance at the Court, and that the Chan and himself had supply'd them out of their own, till the Kings Order was brought them: That he was much troubled at the inconveniences which the Ambas∣sadors had been put to, during the long stay they had made in that City, but that it was not their fault, since it had been impossible, in so short a time, to get Horses and Wagons enough, for so many people, and so much Baggage, intreating us, ere we went away, to honour him so far as to Dine with him once more, which we did.

•• March the 27. there were brought us sixty Wagons for the Baggage, and for the convey∣ance of some of the Retinue who were sick, or not able to ride, and a hundred and twenty Sadle-Nags. We sent away our Steward with all the Baggage that night.

But ere we take our leave quite of a place where we had sojourn'd so long,* 1.73 it will not be amiss to give here a short accompt of the City of Scamachie. Father Bizarrus, in his History of Persia, and Ioseph Barbaro, in his Travels, call it sometimes Summachia, sometimes Suma∣chia, or Samachia, and the Spaniards write it Xamachi. Some Geographers place it in their Maps below Derbent, others place it above, and there are also some who put it in twice, for fear of failing. Its true name, according to the pronunciation of the Persians, is Scamachie, and it lies forty German Leagues, or six great dayes journey from Derbent: it being suppos'd a man takes the Mountain way, which is very much about. For if a man goa-foot, or on horse-back along the Caspian Sea, by the City of Bakuje, and the Mountain Lahatz, where the King hath a place for the receipt of customs upon forein Commodities, he may easily travel it in two dayes. The Camels ordinarily take the latter way, and perform their journey in four or five, and at most in six or seven dayes, according to the burthen they carry. Scamachie is the chief City of that noble Province, which the antients called Media Atropatia, or Media Minor, and which is now called Schiruan; which is the more to be observ'd, in respect of their mi∣stake, who place this City in Hyrcania. It lies at thirty four degrees, forty minutes longitude, and at forty degrees, fifty minutes latitude, in a valley between two Mountains, which hide it so, as that it is hardly seen till a man comes to the very Gate. The Persians affirm, it was built by Schiruan Schach, and that it was heretofore much larger than it is now, since there were in it five thousand houses. It was destroy'd by the Turks in the time of King Abas, who perceiving the Emperour of the Turks took in only the strongest places, thereby to secure his Conquests, and minded not open places, and considering withall, that so many strong and for∣tify'd places were rather a burthen than an advantage to him, and being in the midst of his King∣dom were hard to keep, ordered the pulling down of the Walls on the South-side of the City, where they were strongest. He took the same course with the Cities of Tauris, Nachtzuan, Kentza, &c.

This South-part of Scamachie makes as 〈◊〉〈◊〉 were a City by it self, as being divided from the North-part, which is still compass'd with a strong Wall, by a little plain, which serves for a common Market-place to both. The Persians affirm, that the Grand Seigneur having taken the City of Scamachie, took the stones from all the Sepulchres, and therewith repair'd the Walls of it. The North-side of the City lies at the foot of a little Mountain, and is somewhat, but not much bigger than the other, containing but about nine hundred houses. It hath but a poor Wall about it, which being but low, and having but a wretched Ditch, hinders not but that a man may come into the City at any time.* 1.74 The City hath five Gates; its streets are narrow, and the houses low, and most built of Mortar and Earth. There are very few of Brick, or Free-stone. The Inhabitants are partly Armenians, partly Georgians: who have each their particular Lan∣guage, so as that they would not understand one another, if they did not make use of the Tur∣kish, which is common to both, not only in Schiruan, but also all over Persia. Their greatest Commerce lies in Stuffs of Silk and Cotton, whereof there are such quantities made, that Wo∣men, nay, very Children make a shift to get their living there, by spinning and preparing the Silk and Cotton for the work-men. Most of their shops are in the South-part of the City, where there is also a Basar, or Market-place, into which abutt many streets, which are all co∣vered, for the convenience of the Merchants. Not far from this Market-place, there are two Store-houses, containing many Chambers and Galleries, for the entertainment of forein Mer∣chants, who sell by whole-sale, and for the disposal of their Merchandises. One is called Schach Caravansera, and is the place appointed for the Muscovites, who bring thither Tin, Russia Leather, Copper, Furrs, and other Commodities. The other, which is called Losgi Caravan∣sera, was built for the Tartars of Circassia, who do not bring their Commodities thither, but lead them, they being only Horses, Women, young Lads, and handsom Maids, wherewith they Trade among themselves in their own Countrey, where they steal them upon the Fron∣tiers of Muscovy. The Iews, who have also some part of this latter Store-house assign'd them, upon this accompt, that the Muscovites will not admit them into their Company, bring thi∣ther, from Tabefferahn, the best Woollen Tapistry in the whole Countrey, whereof there is brought into Europe but the refuse. Stuffs of Silk and Cotton, nay, Gold and Silver Broca∣does, as also Bows, Arrows, and Cymitars, are sold there at a very reasonable rate.

In our return from Persia, the Muscovian Envoy Alexei Savinouits woulds needs go into the Storehouse belonging to the Tartars, & being a person of a pleasant humour, he fell a cheapning of a Boy, about fifteen or sixteen years of age, who was handsom enough, and ask'd the Tartar what price he set him at, who made answer, he should have him for a hundred Crowns. Alexei, who had no mind to buy, proffer'd him two and thirty; but the Tartar laugh'd at him, and gi∣ving the Boy a clap upon the buttocks, told the Muscovite, that that very part of him was worth more.

There are also in the City three Hamams, that is, Baths, or publick Stoves, the use where∣of is as ordinary in Persia as Muscovy. There are two which are common to both men and wo∣men, but with this distinction, that the women go in only in the day-time, and the men in the night. The third which they call Hamam Schach is only for the men. Hard by this third Bath there are two great Trees, for which the Persians have a great Veneration, as having been planted by one of their Saints, named Schich-Marith, who is interr'd not far thence, in a Metzid, or Church, where there are greater Devotions done than in other Metzids about the City, wherein there are six in all. The Revenue of this Bath is spent in Luminaries, Cloaths, and other things necessary about the holy Sepulchre.

The Chan,* 1.75 or Governour of the City of Scamachie, hath also the command of the whole Province, joyntly with the Calenter, or King's Lieutenant. The Governour is entrusted with the Administration of Justice, as also the disposal of things Civil and Military, upon which last accompt, he is oblig'd to maintain a thousand men, out of the Revenue of his Government, and to be in a readiness to march, upon the first order he receives to that purpose. The Kings Lieu∣tenant hath the oversight of his Revenue, and disposes of the Crown-Lands, but is not oblig'd to go to the Wars: on the contrary he is left in the Province, whereof he hath the sole com∣mand during the absence of the other. The Chan's name was Areb, and he kept a very noble Court, though he were a person of very low extraction, son to a Peasant of the Village of Sce∣rab, between Tauris and Ardebil: but the lowness of his extraction was recompens'd in the great endowments he was Master of. The Persians are very indifferent as to a man's birth, pro∣vided he be otherwise a person of courage and worth, and Areb had much of both, and had ac∣quir'd so great reputation by his valour, that Schach-Sefi made him Controller of his Ordinance, when he besieg'd Eruan, which the Turks had taken from the Persians. He discharg'd that trust so well, and in all other things answer'd the opinion the King had conceived of him, that he be∣stow'd on him then the Government of Scamachie, which became vacant by the death of Ter∣ruch-Chan, who was kill'd in the siege we spoke of before. Areb took no small pleasure in shewing us the wounds he had receiv'd in that War, and in telling us how many Turks heads he had brought to his King, who sent him continually upon parties and forlorns, against the Army, which was coming to relieve that place.

The Governour and his Lieutenant had both very gracefull and bold aspects, and with that all the requisite qualities in Commanders, save that they were both so addicted to Wine, that they were seldom met fasting: but the Governour had still this advantage over his Lieutenant, that he was more apt to be overcome by it than the other.

I may boldly and truly say, that, in all this City, I found not the least track of Antiquity. For, though I took abundance of pains to find out that great Tower, whereof Iohn Cartwright an English Gentleman, speaks, in the relation of his Travels into Persia, where he sayes it is built of Flint and Free-stone, and that they have thrust many dead mens skulls between the stones, yet could not find any such thing, or learn any news of it. 'Tis true, I found two mens heads cut in the stone, at one certain place of the City-wall, but no body could tell me what they Represented. It is also true, that, not far from the City, there are to be seen the ruins of a Castle, which had some time been fortify'd, as the same Author sayes elsewhere. For it is cer∣tain, that there are the remainders of a very strong place within half a League of the City, and that towards the North-side, upon a very high, and very steepy Mountain, which is called Kale Kulestan.

I had the curiosity to go up to the top of the said Mountain, and found nothing whole, but a very noble great Cellar, and near it one of the deepest Wells that ever I saw, both compass'd with the best free-stone that ever was put in any work. We were told that that Province had heretofore had its particular Kings, and that Schiruan Scach had built that Castle, upon the ac∣compt of one of his Chasses, or Concubines, who gave it the name, and that it was Alexander the Great that destroy'd that noble Structure, which none ever after offer'd to repair. I am of opinion, that the Castle derived its name from the neighbouring Valley, in as much as, having running through it a Brook, which makes it one of the most delightful places in the World, and that being in the Spring cover'd with an infinite number of Tulips, which nature her self is pleas'd to produce there, sit is not to be much admir'd, that they called the place Kale Kulestan, that is, the Fort, or Castle of Roses, since the Persians give the name of Kulestan, or Valley of Roses to all those places, where they would have it express'd, that there is an extraordinary pleasantness. So that there is no necessity of seeking the Etymology of that name in Fables, or in things which might have hapned before the time of Alexander the Great, whereof the Per∣sians have had nothing transmitted to them.

Near Kulestan,* 1.76 between the Fort and the City of Scamachie, there are also two Chapels, upon a Mountain, which is higher than that we spoke of last. In the greater of the two, which is built in the form of a Parallelogram, there is a very high Sepulchre to be seen, and all about it several pieces of Cloath and Rags of all sorts of colours, with Rods of Iron, whose ends are like the tops of Arrows, and they are fastned or ty'd to the Sepulchre with a silk string. In the

other, there were two Sepulchres, adorn'd much after the same manner with the for∣mer. These are the Tombs of some of their Saints, near which they often do their Devotions.

From this last Chapel there is a descent into a spacious Vault,* 1.77 where is to be seen the Sepul∣chre of one of their Kings Daughters, named Amelek Kanna, of whom they relate, that she had so great an aversion against marriage, that her Father desirous she should match with a Tartar-Prince, she kill'd her self, to prevent it. The same Cartwright says, that the young maids of those parts go once a year to the Sepulchre of this Princess, to bewail her death. It is possible, that, in his time, some such thing might be done; but let it be taken for certain, that that custom is now absolutely abolish'd, and that it is not Devotion, but the Heat, which obliges the Inhabitants, in the height of Summer, to retire to this Mountain, as also to Kulestan, for the greater coolness of the air: and that it is out of such a consideration, that they do their De∣votions near these Saints more frequently in that season, than at any other time of the year. Trades-men, and persons of mean condition, stay there only in the day time, and at night re∣turn to the City; but the Chan, the Calenter, and persons of quality have their Tents pitch'd there, and remove not thence during the three hottest Moneths of the year. During which time they also drive their Cattel towards the Mountain of Elbours, where they find not only a more temperate air, but also as good Meadow-ground as any in all Persia. That Mountain is part of Mount Caucasus, and it is of such height, that though it be at a very great distance from thence, inasmuch as it lies on one side of Tabristhan, towards Georgia, yet may it be disco∣ver'd from Kale Kulesthan, and the other neighbouring Mountains of Scamachie. It was upon this Mountain of Elbours,* 1.78 as it is reported, that the Persians kept and antiently Worshiped their perpetual Fire: but now there is not the least track to be seen of it, neither there, nor near Iescht, though Texeira, and those who follow him, would have us believe the contrary. True indeed it is, that there are, to this day, in the Indies, certain Religious men, who have a Veneration for the Fire, and keep it in with the same care that the Persians did heretofore; as we shall take occasion to shew in the subsequent Travels of Mandelslo into those parts. But it is time we return to the pursuance of our Journey.

The Baggage being sent away the 27. of March in the Evening,* 1.79 the Ambassadors follow'd the next day, and were upon their way two hours before day. The Ambassador Brugman, who was dis-satisfy'd with the Treatment we had receiv'd at Scamachie, would not permit the Ca∣lenter should have the honour to conduct us, but gave order we should dislodge and depart with∣out any noise, and that all should go, while it was yet Night, afoot out of the Gates, where we took Horse. Having Travell'd about two Leagues, we found a Scotch-man of our retinue, whose name was Alexander Chambers, dead in the Waggon, though, at the Loading of the Baggage, he seem'd to be so well, as that it was conceiv'd he might have gone through the Journey, which occasion'd us to make a Halt, to dispose of the Body into the ground. We buried him at the bottom of a little Hill, cover'd all over with Hyacinths, on the left hand, near the High-way.

Having got half a League further, we came to the Sepulchre of another Saint, named Pyr Mardechan, in the Country of Fakerlu, where we were forc'd to take up our Quarters in the open Air, and without Tents, making a shift in that manner to pass over one of the sharpest Nights we had in all our Journey, by reason of the Storm, which came attended by Lightning, Thunder, Wind, Rain, Snow and Frost; the Ambassador Brugman being desirous to outvy the Thonder, with our Artillery, which he caus'd to be several times discharg'd. The next day, the same Ambassador having observ'd, that several pieces of Canon were left behind, because there were not Camels enough to bring them away,* 1.80 and that the Horses were too weak to draw them, would needs fall out with the Mehemander, and was so transported with Passion, that he came to Railing, and Spetting when he nam'd the Chan and the Calenter, and said that the Chan had not been so good as his Word, and had ly'd in all he said, but that he should resent it, and that he would either have his Life, or the other should have his.

Some were of opinion, that he would stay there till the pieces we had left at Scamachie were brought up: but, upon the Remonstrances of some others, that the place was too incommodi∣ous; that we had nothing over our Heads; that we should want both Wood and Provisions, and that the sick Persons would not be able to endure the Cold, it was resolv'd we should go on, which we did, and came, after two Leagues travel to a Caravansera, called Tach••si, and having gone two Leagues further, we were got to the top of the Mountain of Scha∣machie.

Upon the top of the said Mountain there is a fair Plain, and an even and fertile ground, though in Winter, and at the beginning of the Spring, Rain, Snow and hard Weather are no strangers there, and bring the same inconveniences along with them, as they do in some parts of Europe. But as soon as we were come to the brow or descent of the Mountain, we saw a clear Sky, a chearful Sun, and discover'd a Country wholly cover'd with Verdure, in a spaci∣ous Plain, which reaching above ten Leagues, without any excrescency so much as to the

height of two foot, represented to us, as it were in a Map, the Course and Conjunction of those two Rivers, Araxes and Cyrus, which the Writings of Antient Historians and Geogra∣phers have so highly celebrated. This descent was above half a league, but easie, and not very steepy; so that those who went fore-most, looking behind them, saw the last of our company descending as it were out of the Clouds. We took up our Lodging that night in certain Ottacks, or Huts, which the Tartarian Shepherds had set up there near their Flocks.

Mar. 30. we got four leagues, along the Plain, as far as the Village of Kasilu. We met, in our way,* 1.81 with a company of Sheep-herds and Cow-herds, who march'd with their Houses and all their Houshold-stuff, their Wives and Children, all as it were shuffled together in Wagons, or pack'd up upon Horses, Cows, Asses, and other Creatures, not ordinarily us'd in car∣riage, after a very odd manner, and such as represented a very Fantastick kind of Transmigra∣tion.

Ever after that day, we had nothing but fair weather, a Sky clear, and without any cloudiness, save that when we travell'd over the Mountains, we might, in the Morning, see the Heavens a little over-cast; but as soon as the Sun appear'd, all was dispell'd.

March the last, we travell'd two leagues, along the River side, to a Village named Tzauat, upon the right side of the Kur, or the River, which the Antients called Cyrus, all the Houses whereof were built of Reeds and Canes,* 1.82 and cover'd with Earth. About a quarter of a league above this Village, is the Conflux, or meeting of this River with that of Araxes, which is now called Aras, at thirty nine degrees, fifty four minutes Elevation; the Cyrus coming from West-north-west, and the Aras from South-west. These Rivers after they are met together are about four hundred paces in breadth. Their water is black and deep, and the brink on both sides pretty high. All along the River side, and all the Meadow grounds of the Province of Mokan, were cover'd with Liquorice, the stalk whereof is many times as big as a man's arm, and the juyce, beyond all comparison, sweeter and more pleasant than that of Europe.

The River Kur serves for a common Frontier to the two Provinces of Schiruan and Mokan,* 1.83 and there is a Bridge of Boats over it, near Tzawat. We pass'd over it the second of April,* 1.84 and found, on the other side of the River, another Mehemandar, whom the Chan or Governour of Ardebil had sent to meet us, and to conduct us in the pursuance of our Journey, as far as the chief City of his Government. He had brought along with him, for the carriage of us and the Baggage, forty Camels, and three hundred Horses: in regard, the way we were then to come into being very bad, by reason of the continued Mountains and Valleys, we could not have made any use of our Waggons. He supply'd us with Provisions in abundance, allowing us, every day, ten Sheep, thirty Batmans of Wine, and Rice, Butter Eggs, Almonds, Raisins, Ap∣ples, and all sorts of Fruits as much as we pleas'd. On Sunday, after Sermon, we departed, taking our way along the River Aras, for above a League. We lodg'd that night within half a League of the River, at the entrance of a great Heath in Hutts, which the Mehemandar had purposely ordered to be provided, for our convenience.

April the third, we pass'd over the Heath, which reaches about four Farsangs, or Persian Leagues,* 1.85 and we were lodg'd again that night in Hutts, as we had been the night before. We had seen all that day in great Herds, a kind of Deer, which the Turks call Tzeiran, and the Per∣sians, Ahu, which have some resemblance to our Harts, save that they are rather Red than Fawn, and their Horns have no Brow-anclers, but are smooth, and lye backward like those of wild Goats. They are very swift, and there are not any of that kind, as we were told, but what are in the Province of Mokan, and about Schamachie, Karrabach, and Mer∣rage.

April 4. we were forc'd to leave the way of the Heath, though much the nearer, and to take another, which brought us, by a great compass of above six Leagues, to a Torrent called Bal∣haru, out of this consideration, that if we had travell'd along the Heath, we should have want∣ed water,* 1.86 both for our selves and our Horses. We found in that place abundance of Tortoises, which had made their Nests along the side of the Torrent, and in the Sand of the little Hills thereabouts, but all expos'd to the Mid-day Sun, so to give the greater heat to their Eggs, which cannot be hatch'd but in the Hot,* 1.87 or rather burning Sand. Perceiving some men on the other side of the Torrent, some of our people had the curiosity to cross it, to observe their manner of Life: Their Children were stark Naked, and Aged persons had nothing about them but a shirt or smock of Cotton. The poor people entertain'd us very kindly, and brought us some Milk. They thought that the King of Persia had sent for us, to serve him in his Wars against the Turk, out of which perswasion, they pray'd for our good success, that God would make their and our Enemy fly before us, as far as Stamp••l, that is, Constanti••ople.

April the 5. we overcame the Heath of Mokan, and came to the Mountain and Country of Betzirwan,* 1.88 after we had twelve several times cross'd one little River, which lay so many times in our way. We got that day five leagues, and lodg'd at night in a Village called Schechm••r at. Most of the Houses were built at the foot of the Mountain, and some within the Mountain, and were cover'd with Reeds: but we found not any Body in the Village, for those who went along

with the Chan of Schamachie's Present, for Ispahan, had made the Country people believe, us they pass'd that way, that we were a sort of Barbarous people, who thought it not enough to take and ransack all, but did also abuse and beat such as entertain'd us: upon which accompt of us, they were all gone to hide themselves in the Rocks of the neighbouring Mountain. There were some of our company, who got up a very high Mountain to see what Simples they could find there, and to take a view of the adjacent Country: but they found not any there, and the other nearer Mountains, which were higher than that we were upon, absolutely deprived us of the sight of the Champain.

They met not with any thing remarkable there, save that upon the very top of the Moun∣tain, there was a pleasant Spring, near which we saw coming out of the clefts of the Rock a kind of Crabb, which some among us, who had never seen any before, took for some venemous Creature. The Author is of opinion, that it is a Sea-fish; but he is mistaken, for it is proper∣ly no other animal than that which in Latin is called Cancer, is found in Rivers, and is of a different species from the common Sea-crabb, which is called Acastus. We sate down by the Spring-side, and, in what Liquor nature had furnish'd the place with, drunk to our Friends in Germany.

April 6. We could not possibly get above two Leagues, over Mountains and Rocks, where we saw a great number of Fig-trees, which the Earth produc'd there without any Cultivation. We came at night to a ruin'd Village, called Tisle; but ere we had quite taken up our Quarters and unloaded the Baggage, word was brought us, that it was the Plague, which, the Autumn before, had consumed 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Inhabitants of that place; whereupon we immediately left it. The Ambassadors caus'd a Tent to be pitch'd in the fields, but all the rest of the retinue had, at first, no other covering over their Heads than the Sky, till the Mehemandar had sent for some Tar∣tarian Huts,* 1.89 which were brought late in the night loaded upon Oxen. These kind of Huts are made of several pieces of Wood, which are fasten'd together at the ends, so as they may be ta∣ken a-sunder, or set together in a short time. The Sieur Vchterits, who had stay'd a while in the Village, to see the Baggage loaden and convey'd thence, coming to the Ambassadors▪ Tent, was so rail'd at by the Ambassador Brugman, who reproach'd him that he came from an Infect∣ed House, to bring the Plague among them, that he fell into a Feaver.

There were some in the Company, who finding the weather somewhat close and cold, went and lock'd themselves up in a house, where they made a good fire, and spent the time merrily with the Wine they had kept the day before, diverting themselves, and singing to drive away Melancholy, and to forget the froward humour of the Ambassador Brugman, which they were as much afraid of as the unwholsome air. The Indians had begun the building of a Caravansera in that place, for the convenience of Commerce, which was grown to a considerable height; but the Plague had hindred them from finishing it.

The 7.* 1.90 we had a very sad dayes journey of it, being forc'd, in a continual trot, to travel above ten leagues, without ever baiting, in the cold, the wind, and the snow, which not onely dis∣heartned our people, many whereof fell sick, but lay so heavy upon the Camels, that divers of them fell down under their burthens. There is in these parts abundance of Absynthium, or Wormwood,* 1.91 and we were told, that the Herb of it is so venemous, that if Horses or any other Creature eat thereof, they die immediately, upon which accompt it was, that we durst not unbit that day. About noon, we came in sight of a Caravansera, called Aggis, the structure whereof is of the noblest kind we had seen.* 1.92 Not far from it, we met a Persian, who was ex∣cellently well mounted, and attended by two servants, who told us, that the King had sent him to be our Mehemandar, to take order for our subsistence, and to Conduct us with the soonest to the Court. We lodg'd that night in a Village called Tzanlu, at the foot of a Mountain, where we found excellent Gardens, and abundance of fruit-trees, but no Wood for firing, in∣somuch that we were forc'd to make use of Cow-dung, Hors-dung, and Camels-dung. We sent away that day our Forrager, to take up Quarters for us at Ardebil.

The 8. having broke our fast, we got on Hors-back, and after we had travell'd three leagues along the Mountain of Tzizetlu, we came to the River Karasu, which rises out of the Moun∣tain of Bakru, in the Countrey of Kilan. VVe cross'd it near the Village of Samajan, over a very fair stone bridge, containing six noble Arches, which were in all thirty eight fathom in length. About half a league thence, we came to the end of that day's journey, to a Village cal∣led Thabedar, two little leagues from Ardebil, where we stay'd that night. The next day, be∣ing Easter-day, we saw how the Inhabitants dawb the VValls of their Houses with Dung, that the Sun may the sooner dry it, and make it combustible: but we were also in this place terri∣bly persecuted with Fleas and Lice, and other nasty Vermine, wherewith we were in a manner cover'd.

The 9. we Celebrated our Easter, beginning the Festival with the firing of our great Guns, and small shot, which we ordered to be discharged thrice. That done, we had a Sermon, and did our Devotions.

About noon we were visited by our new Mehemandar, whose name was Netzefbce; he

was a person of an excellent good humour. He came to Complement us upon occasion of the Festival, and brought us a Present of five fishes dry'd in the Sun, a dish, full of Bread, Pome∣granates, Apples, and a sort of Pears I had never seen before, fashion'd like a Citron, and full of a very pleasant juyce, and having a sweet scent, pickled Cowcumbers, preserv'd Garlick, and Schiras-wine, which is the most esteem'd of any that grows in Persia.

April 10. being Easter-Monday: we made our entrance into Ardebil, for the most part with the same Ceremonies, but with greater Pomp and Magnificence, than we had done at Sca∣machie. About noon, we met with a party of Horse, which having saluted, and taken a view of us, immediately returned towards the City.

Near the Village of Kelheran,* 1.93 (which is so noble a place, that viewing, at a distance, its Stee∣ples, or Towers, whereof there are a very great number, and they make a very great shew, in regard they are built of stones of several colours, we took it for the City it self, though they are distant one from the other above half a league) we met with, in the head of a body of Horse, the Calenter of Ardebil, whose name was Taleb Chan, an aged, and very spare man. Having sa∣luted the Ambassadors, he rid on one side of them. Having pass'd by the Village, we saw in a spacious Plain, abundance of horse and foot, who opened to make us way. Some paces thence, we saw crossing the fields towards us at the head of a Brigade of above a thousand Horse, the Go∣vernour of Ardebil, whose name was Kelbele Chan. He was a low man, but of a good aspect and pleasant humour. After the Complements reciprocally past between him and the Ambassa∣dors, he rode in between them. Before our Troop, there march'd two youths clad in Sheep∣skins of several colours, upon their clean skirts, and carrying each of them upon the top of a long and very slender pole, an Orenge. The poles, we were told, were made of a Date-tree.

These youths read and sung, out of a Book, certain Verses made in honour of Mahomet, Aly, and Schach Sefi. They were Sons or Disciples to a certain Abdalla, of whom we shall speak hereafter. After them came others, who were cloathed in white, and had a wonderful Art in imitating the Notes and singing of Nightingales and other birds. On both sides march'd the Timbrels and Hawboies; in some places there were people dancing and singing at the same time, and at others were some dancing after another manner. Some cast their caps up into the air, and caught them again with cries and exclamations of joy. There were some danc'd with little Garlands about their heads, much like those we had seen at Scamachie, when they cele∣brated there, the death of Aly. Near the City stood the Guards, in two files, having their Bows and Arrows in their hands, Coats of Mail about their bodies, and their heads cover'd with little Caps like Calottes, which they call Aratskin, in which they had plac'd abundance of Feathers, the ends whereof, some thrust through their Caps, into the skin. Many of them were naked down to the waste, and though they had the flesh of their Arms and Breasts pier∣ced with Daggers or Ponyards, yet did they not seem sensible of any pain thereat; whence we inferr'd there might be something of Charm in it, and that they were Sorcerers, there being abundance that deserve that name in Persia. There was also a Company of Indians, who as we pass'd by, saluted us, after their way, with a low inclination of the head, putting their hands to their breasts. When we were come somewhat near the City, there was so great a conflu∣ence of people, that we could not get a hundred paces forward without making a halt; inso∣much that they were forc'd to drive them away with Cudgels and Bulls-pizzels, so to make them give way. And within the City, all the Windows, Houses-tops, Steeples, and Trees, were full of those, who came from all parts to see our passage through it.

The Governour brought us, through a spacious Garden, into a fair Summer-house, to which there were ten stairs to get up,* 1.94 and treated us with a sumptuous Collation, in a very stately Gallery; honouring all those who came up with the Ambassadors so far as to present, to every one of them with his own hands, a Vessel full of Wine, while all the rest of the Retinue were treated below, in a Tent, which had been purposely pitch'd there to that end. The Collation was accompany'd with the best Musick the Country could afford, as also with a Dance perfor∣med by their Ochtzi, or Archers, who dancing, in cadence, with their Bows in their hands, represented a kind of Ball, which their exactness of the observance of time made more delight∣ful & divertive, than had been the singing of those two youths, the sons of Abdalla, who with their Orenges in their hands, very seriously celebrated the praises of their Prophet. After the Collation and Divertisement, the Ambassadors were conducted to very spacious Lodgings, which had been taken up for them in one of the noblest parts of the City, which Lodgings had sometime belong'd to Sara Chutza, high Chancellor of Persia. The rest of the Retinue were Lodg'd not far from them, in the neighbourhood, where they were well accommodated, by those into whose houses they were receiv'd.

This Summer-house, being one of the noblest Structures I ever saw, deserves I should give in this place a more particular description of it.* 1.95 Sulfagar Chan, the Predecessor of Kelbele Chan, in the Government of Ardebil, a Person of infinite wealth, had built it, according to a modell he had brought out of Turkey. The figure of it was Octagonal, and it was three Stories, so

rais'd, that Art had not left any thing to be desir'd. Every story had its Fountains, which cast their water higher than any part of the House. The Walls were built of a sort of Glitter∣ing stones, of all Colours, Blew, Green, Red, and of all sorts of Figures, and all the Floors were cover'd with the richest Tapistry the Country could afford. All about the House there was a spacious Gallery, all built with Marble, and adorn'd with Painting, representing Flow∣ers and Leaves. At one of the corners of that Gallery, there was a little Couch or Chair of State, four foot square, cover'd with Embroider'd Tapistry, having in the midst a Quilt wrought with Gold and Silk,* 1.96 to signifie, that the King, passing one day through Ardebil, had rested himself there; which made the place so Venerable, that, to the end none should come near it, it was encompass'd with an Iron rail. The said Sulfagar Chan had built also another House of Pleasure or Summer-house, in a great Garden, near a stone-Bridge, without the Ci∣ty; but at the time of our Travels that way, it lay desolate, as indeed it had been ever since the Death of Sulfagar, who had been Executed, upon the instigation of Kartzogar, General of the Persian Army. The other House, which was within the City, had been bestow'd by the King upon Kelbele Chan, to be enjoy'd by him during his Life.

The next day after our arrival,* 1.97 which was April 11. there was brought the Ambassadors from Schich-Sefi's Kitchin, the Thaberick; which is a certain quantity of Meat, sent in for three meals, to such great Lords, and other Persons of quality, as come into that City, according to a pious Institution, which hath been observ'd about the Body of Schich-Sefi, Author and Founder of the Religion of the Persians, as also near that of the late King, whose Sepulchres are at Ardebil. Our Thaberick was brought us in 32 great Dishes or Basins full of Rice, of all sorts of Colours, upon which the Meat was laid, which consisted of Boyl'd, Roast, Omelets, and Pastry, according to their way of Dressing. Those who were appointed to bring us this Dinner, carry'd the Dishes upon their Heads, and set them down upon a Cloath, which was laid upon the ground.

We were not over-pleas'd with this Entertainment, by reason, not only of the trouble it was to us to sit down according to the Persian way,* 1.98 but also because we were forbidden to drink a∣ny Wine at this Feast of the Thaberick. However, we ordered our great Guns to be discharg'd at it, as also our Trumpets to sound, and would have made a small Present to those who had brought it; but they desir'd to be excus'd, telling us, that the Devotion of the place permitted them not to receive any Presents.

The next day, there was such order taken for the Provisions of the Kitchin, that we had all the reason in the world to be satisfy'd therewith. We were allow'd every day sixteen Sheep, two hundred Eggs, four Batmans (which come to 26 pounds) of Butter, thirteen pound of Raisins of the Sun, six pound and a half of Almonds, a hundred Batmans of Wine, two Bat∣mans of Sirrup, Meal, Honey; and Poultry in abundance, besides the extraordinary Presents, which were ever and anon brought us from the Chan;* 1.99 insomuch, that our expence, during our stay at Ardebil, amounted to,

• In Bread, 1960. Batmans.
• In Wine, 6250. Batmans.
• Eggs, 9300.
• Sheep, 477.
• Lambs, 472.

April. the 12.* 1.100 we receiv'd the first visit from the Governour, who, with much kindness, came to make the proffers of his services to the Ambassadors, whereof we afterwards found the real effects, when occasion required. The same day, he sent away an Express to Court, to give notice there of our arrival, and to receive orders for the prosecution of our Journey, which yet came not till two moneths after.

April. 21.* 1.101 an Armenian Bishop came to see the Ambassadors. He was but lately come thi∣ther from the City of Eruan, was a Person discours'd very handsomely, and told us many par∣ticulars concerning the state of the Christian Churches in Asia. Among other things, he told us, that there was near Eruan a Monastery wherein there were above four hundred Religious men, and that there were in the Mountains, between Aras and Kur, above a thousand Villages inhabited by Christians, and that there were, besides all these, near Ca••win and Tauris above two thousand Families, which made up in all above five hundred Churches. Whereto he ad∣ded, that the Turks had, not long before, carried away above fifteen hundred Christians, and ve∣ry highly commended the King of Persia, for his care in preserving their Privileges, and not bur∣thening them with Taxes, as the Turk does, intreating us to recommend their concernments to the King, when we should come to Court.

April. 25.* 1.102 which, according to the Arabians, is the 10. day of the moneth Silhotza, was the great Bairam, or the Festival which they call Kurban, that is, Sacrifice, in commemoration of the Sacrifice, which Abraham would have made of his son Ismael, according to the command

of God: for so they understand the History of the Sacrifice of Abraham. All their Ceremo∣ny consists in killing, before day, a Sheep, or Lamb, in the street, at their own Doors, which being cut into pieces, they distribute them among the poor, who come to those Doals in great numbers. They do not reserve so much as the skin; which they do, as they affirm, ac∣cording to the example of Abraham, who reserv'd nothing of the Ram, which he sacrifiz'd in∣stead of his Son.

It is about this time,* 1.103 that the Persians go to do their Devotions at Meca, as well as the Turks. They say that Noah, when he went into the Ark, took along with him seventy two Persons, and for that reason, it is requisite the Pilgrims of Meca should amount to the number of seventy two thousand; and that number ought to be so exactly observ'd, that if there be ei∣ther more or less, they must not be receiv'd there, as such, that year. But above all things, it is their main care, that that great number be compleat; for otherwise, as they affirm, the An∣gels would be oblig'd to come in, to make up what were wanting, and it were a wont of re∣spect to those Spirits to put them to that trouble. The men put on a particular Coiffure for this Voyage, which is a kind of Turbant of white Wool; in regard their Law forbids them to wear it of any Colour, or of silk at that time. They call this kind of Turbant Ehharan, and they cover their Heads therewith, only as they go; so as that one part of it falling down on one side of the Head, passes under the Chin, and is fasten'd on the other side.

They commonly take their way through the City of Ierusalem,* 1.104 where they do their first Devotions. Thence they pass through Medina, where they continue them, at the Sepulchre of Mahomet, which they kiss with a profound Veneration, and then they conclude them at Me∣ca, or Mount Arafat. From Medina to Meca, they are cover'd only with a shirt, nay some go naked down to the waste. In this posture, they march continually, and after a very particular fashion. For they are oblig'd to go, after the rate of a trotting Horse, or rather that of a Camel galloping; and that with such earnestness, that they hardly take the leisure to eat and drink, or yet to sleep: and all, out of an imagination, that the Sweat caus'd by that Vio∣lent Motion, and forc'd out of their Bodies, carries away with it all their Sins, and cleanseth them of all their filthiness. The Women, who might not be able to bear the inconveniences of such a march, have the privilege to swath up their Breasts with a Skarf, which hath a particular name, and they call it Scamachtze.

The tenth day of the moneth of Silhatza, is that of their great Devotion. That day, all the Pilgrims go to Mount Arafat, which, they say, is the place where the Patriarch Abraham should have Sacrifiz'd his Son, and there they spend the whole night in Prayers. Towards the dawning of the day, they come down, and go to the City of Meca, where their Hetzas, or High-Priest, makes a Procession, conducting through the chief streets a Camel, which is ap∣pointed for the Sacrifice. The Hair of this Camel is a very precious Relick among them; whence it comes, that the Pilgrims throng, to get as near as they can to the Beast, and to snatch off some of his Hair, which they fasten to their arms, as a very sacred thing. The Hetzas, after he hath walk'd the Beast sufficiently leads him to the Meydan, that is, the great Market∣place, and puts him into the hands of the Baily, or Judge of the City, whom they call Daroga, who, attended by some other Officers, kills him with an Axe, giving him many blows in the Head, Neck, and Breast.

As soon as the Camel is dead, all the Pilgrims endeavour to get a piece of him, and throng with such earnestness and so confusedly, with Knives in their hands, that these Devotions are never concluded, but there are many Pilgrims kill'd and hurt, who are afterwards allow'd a place in their Martyrologies. After all these Ceremonies, they go in Procession about the Mosquey, they kiss a Stone, which was left after the finishing of the Structure, and they take of the Water, which passes through a Golden Chanel over the Mosquey, and carry it away as a Relick, with a little piece of a certain Blackish Wood, of which ••ooth-picks are commonly made. When the Pilgrims are return'd from their Pilgrimage they are called Hatzi, and they are as it were Nazarites, dedicated to God, in as much as it is unlawful for them to drink Wine ever after.

From this Pilgrimage, and the Sacrifice perform'd at Meca, we shall take occasion to insert here, what the Persians and Turks relate of that of Abraham, as Mahomet hath dress'd up the story, falsifying the truth of it in all its circumstances. They say in the first place, that Abra∣ham was the son of Azar, who was Graver to Nimroth, King of Egypt, and that he married Sara, who was so beautifull a Woman, that the King having cast his eye on her, Abraham grew jealous, and carried her away into Arabia; but finding that she bore no Children, he there bought a Slave, named Hagar, whom he carnally knew, and, by her, had Ismael. Hagar being near her time, and not able any longer to endure the ill treatment she receiv'd from Sara, resolv'd to run away. Abraham coming to hear of her discontent, and fearing she might make away the Child, especially if she came to be deliver'd without the assistance of some other Wo∣men, follow'd her, and found her already deliver'd of a Son, who, dancing with his little feet upon the ground, had ••ade way for a Spring to break forth. But the water of the Spring came

forth in such abundance, as also with such violence, that Hagar could make no use of it to quench her thirst, which was then very great. Abraham coming to the place, commanded the Spring to glide more gently, and to suffer that water might be drawn out of it to drink, and ha∣ving thereupon stay'd the course of it with a little Bank of Sand, he took of it, to make Hagar and her child drink. The said Spring is, to this day, called Semsem, from Abraham's making use of that word to stay it. After this Sara pray'd to God with such earnestness, that he gave her her son Isaac.

Some time after Ismael's birth, the Angel Gabriel appear'd to Abraham, and told him, that God commanded him to build a house upon the River, which Ismael had given the rise to: in answer whereto, Abraham representing, that it was impossible for him to build any great structure in the midst of a Desart, where there was nothing but Sand; the Angel reply'd, that he should not be troubled at that, and that God would provide. Accordingly, Abraham was no sooner come to the place appointed him by the Angel, but Mount Arafat forc'd out of its quarries a great number of stones, which roll'd down from the top of the Mountain, to the side of the little River, where he built a house, which hath since been converted to a Mosquey, and is the same where the Pilgrims of Meca do their Devotions. The Structure being finish'd, there happened to be one single stone remaining, which began to speak, and to complain that it had been so unfortunate, as not to be employ'd in that Edifice. But Abraham told it, that it should so much the rather be comforted, in as much as it should one day be in greater Veneration than all the rest put together, and that all the faithfull who came to that place should kiss it. This is the stone we spoke of before. These people say, it was heretofore all white, and that the rea∣son of its being now black, is, that it hath been constantly kiss'd through so many ages.

Some years after, the same Angel Gabriel appeared again to Abraham, who was grown a very rich and powerful man, and told him, that God intended to make the highest tryal that could be of his affection and gratitude, and that he would have him, in acknowledgement of so many favours, to sacrifize his son to him. Abraham immediately consented, and being return'd home, bid Hagar call up her son, and put on his best Cloaths, that he might be the better look'd on at the Wedding, to which he intended to carry him. They departed the next day betimes in the morning, and took their way towards Mount Arafat, Abraham carrying along with him a good sharp knife, and some Cords. But as soon as they were gone, Sceithan, that is to say, the Devil, represented himself to Hagar, in the shape of a man, reporach'd her with the easiness, wherewith she had consented, that her son Ismael should go from her, and told her, that what Abraham had related to her concerning the Wedding, to which he was to bring him, was pure forgery, and that he was carrying him streight to the Shambles. Hagar ask'd him why Abraham would use her so, since he had alwayes express'd a great tenderness to her son. The Devil made answer, that God had commanded it should be so; whereto Hagar reply'd, that since it was God's good pleasure to make that disposal of him, it was but fit she should comply therewith. Whereupon the Devil pressing harder upon her, and treating her as an un∣natural Mother, endeavouring by those aggravations to bring her into rebellion against God, she pelted him away with stones. The Devil's endeavour proving unsuccessfull that way, and too weak to overcome the obstinacy of a woman, he apply'd himself to Abraham, reviv'd in him the tendernesses and affection of a Father, represented to him the horrour of the murther he was going to commit, and remonstrated to him the little likelyhood there was, that God should be the Author of so barbarous and abominable an action. But Abraham, who was acquainted with the subtilty and artifices of that wicked spirit, sent him away, and to be the sooner rid of him, cast also a stone at him. The last attempt the Devil had to make, was, to represent to Ismael the horrour of death, and the unnatural procedure of his Father: but he found the same treat∣ment from him, as he had from the other two, and had a good stone flung at his head. The Father and Son being come to the top of the Mountain, Abraham said to his Son Ismael; My Son, I cannot imagine thou knowest the occasion of our journey, and the reason why I have brought thee to this place. It is only this, that God hath commanded me to sacrifize thee: whereto Ismael made answer, that since it was God's pleasure it should be so, his will be done, only let me entreat thee, Father, to grant me three things. The first is, that thou have a care to bind me so fast, that the pains of death may not engage me to attempt any thing against thee. The second is, that thou whet thy knife very well, and, after thou hast thrust it into my throat, that thou hold it very fast, and shut thy eyes, out of a fear the cruelty of the action dishearten thee from going through with it, and so leave me to languish a long time. And the third, that, when thou art returned home, thou remember my duty to my Mother.

Abraham, having promis'd to observe all these things, and whetted his knife, binds his son, directs the knife to his Throat, and, shutting his eyes, holds it as fast as he could: but finding, when he opened his eyes again, that the knife had made no entrance, he is extremely troubled, and tries the edge of it upon a stone, which he cuts in two. He was so astonish'd thereat, that he address'd himself to the Knife, and asked it, why, having so good an edge as to cut a stone, it could not as well cut his Sons Throat. The knife made answer, that God would not have it

so. Whereupon the Angel Gabriel took Abraham by the hand, and said to him; Hold a little, God would only make tryal of thy faith, Unbind thy Son, and sacrifize this Hee-Goat; and immediately there came into the place a Hee-Goat, which Abraham offered to God, for a burnt-offering.

They affirm, that the three stones, which Hagar, Abraham and Ishmael cast at the Devil, are yet to be seen, near the High-way, between Medina and Meca, and that there are made there∣of two great heaps of stones, by the means of the Pilgrims, who bring every one three stones, to be cast at the Devil, at the same place where these heaps are, to the end he may not distract them in their Devotions.

We saw also the same day above five hundred Women,* 1.105 who were going before day to the Church-yard to weep over the Graves of their Husbands, and others of their kinred. There were some who had somewhat to eat at the same time; others had some passages of the Alchoran read to them; and those of any quality had Tents pitch'd there, for their reception, that they might not be expos'd to the sight of all that pass'd by.

This kind of Devotion for the Dead is commonly performed in the time of their Orut, or Lent.

The Ambassadors were again that day treated out of Schich-Sefi's Kitchin. The meat was brought in, in six great Copper Vessels tinn'd over, which they call Lenkeri, and the Conserves, in nine great Vessels of Porcelain.

The next day,* 1.106 the Chan treated them very Magnificently, at a Dinner he had provided in one of his Summer-houses.

The 27. in the evening, the Governour communicated to the Ambassadors the good news he had received from Chan Rustan,* 1.107 General of the King of Persia's Army, who had writ to him, that the Ianizaries, in a mutiny at Constantinople, had kill'd the Grand Signior, and impri••••n'd the most eminent Ministers of his Courr. The Persians express'd their joy thereat, by the fire∣works which the Governour order'd to be made, as also by the Musick, which ecchoed all o∣ver the City. The Ambassadors did the like on their part, with their great Guns, causing them to be fired six times over, and ordering the Trumpets to sound, and the Drums to beat, while from the roof of their Lodgings they could see all the fires about the City.

The Governour was so well pleas'd to see that the Ambassadors concern'd themselves so much in the publick joy, that he sent them two flaggons of Schiras Wine, with a Glass-Vessel, full of Sugar-candy'd.

May the first,* 1.108 we Celebrated the Birth-day of the Ambassador Crusius, which was con∣cluded at night with a Magnificent Supper, to which we had invited out Mehemander Netzefbek.

The 4. the Ambassadors receiv'd a visit from the son of Saru-Taggi,* 1.109 Chancellor of Persia, who was come purposely from Ispahan, accompany'd by some persons of quality, to see the Ambassadors. We entertain'd him with our Musick, which he seem'd to be much taken with, and treated him with a sumptuous Collation, during which, the great Guns were discharg'd, as often as there was any great health drunk.

May 14. the Persians began to Celebrate a mournful Festival,* 1.110 which they call Aschur, which signifies ten, in regard it lasts ten days, and begins with the Moon of the moneth Mahe∣ram. Of all the sorts and Sects of Mabumetans, the Persians only Celebrate this Feast, in memory of Hossein, the youngest son of Haly, whom they accompt one of their greatest Saints. The Legends relate of him, that he was kill'd in the War he was engag'd in, against the Calif Iesied. He was at first (according to their story of him) troubled with an extraordinary thirst, in regard they had depriv'd him of all water. Afterwards, he had seventy two wounds, which he receiv'd by Arrows, and at last, Senan ben anessi run him through the body with a sword, and Schemr Sultzausen kill'd him out-right. That this Feast lasts ten dayes, proceeds hence; that Hossein having left Medina to go to Kufa, was, for ten days together, pursu'd by his Enemies, who treated him as we related before. During all that time, the Persians go in mourning, ex∣press much affliction, suffer not the Rasour to come near their heads, though, at other times they make use of it every day, live very soberly, drink no Wine, and content themselves with Water. The whole City of Ardebil was taken up in these Ceremonies and extravagant De∣votions. In the day time, the Children and young Lads assembled themselves in great compa∣nies up and down the streets, carrying in their hands great Banners, at the extremities whereof there were Snakes of Pastboard winding to and fro, much like Mercury's Caduceus. The Per∣sians call them Eschder. They went to the Doors of their Metzits, or Mosqueys, and cry'd one after another ja Hossein, ja Hossein, that is, O Hossein. In the evening, especially the three last days of the Festival, after Sun-set, men did also meet in several places, under Tents, with a∣bundance of Torches and Lanthorns,* 1.111 having at the tops of their Poles Orenges, as the Chil∣dren of Abdalla, singing, and crying out as loud as they were able, their ja Hossein, and that with such violence, that it chang'd the colour of their countenances. Having 〈◊〉〈◊〉 thus about an hour, they return'd to the City, and went in Procession with their Banners and Torches,

through the principal streets. The tenth day concluded the Devotions of the Festival. In the morning there was an Oration made in honour of Hossein, with the same Ceremonies in a man∣ner, as we had seen at the Festival of Aly at Scamachie. These Ceremonies were performed in the Court of the Mesar of Schich-Sefi, where, near the Chancery, they had planted a Ban∣ner, which, as it is reported, was made by the daughter of Fatima, the daughter of Mahomet, who caus'd the Iron-work of it to be made of a hors-shooe, which had belong'd to one of the horses of Abas,* 1.112 Uncle to Mahomet by the Father side, which Schich Sedredin, the son of Schich-Sefi, had brought from Medina to Ardebil. They say, that this Banner shakes of it self, as often as they pronounce the name of Hossein, during the Sermon which is made in ho∣nour of him, and that when the Priest makes a recital of the particulars of his death, how he was wounded with seventy two Arrows,, and how he fell down from his horse, it may be seen shaken by a secret agitation, but withall so violent, that, the staff breaking, it falls to the ground. I must confess, I saw no such thing, but the Persians affirm it so positively, that they think it should not be any way doubted.

May 24. about noon, the Governour sent the Ambassadors notice, that they concluded the Festival that night, and that if they would be present at the Ceremonies which were to be per∣formed, they should be very welcome, and he would take it for a great honour done him: but it must be with this condition, that, complying with the Law of the Mussulmans, they were not to expect any Wine at the Collation he intended to treat them withall.

In the cloze of the evening,* 1.113 the Ambassadors went to the Governour's Palace, who met them at the street door. And whereas the Ceremony was to be done in the Court, they were intreated to take their places on the left hand, where they had prepared Seats, cover'd with Tapistry, for them, and their Retinue, who would have been much troubled, to sit as the Per∣sians do. There were set before them, upon a Cloath, wherewith they had cover'd the ground, several Vessels of Porcelain, with Suger'd and Perfum'd waters, and, near the Table, brass Candlesticks, four foot high, with great Wax Candles in them, as also Lamps, fill'd with rags dipt in Suet and Naphte. The Governour took up his place at the entrance of the Court, on the right side of the Gate, and fate upon the ground. Our people had standing before them great Wooden Candlesticks, or Branches, holding each of them twenty or thirty Wax-Candles. There were fasten'd to the Walls thousands of Lamps, of Plaister, all fill'd with Suet and Naphte, which cast so great a light, that the house seem'd to be all on fire. They had drawn cross the Court certain Cords whereat hung Paper-Lanthorns, which gave not so full, but, without comparison, a more pleasant light, than that of the Lamps and Cresset-lights. The Inhabitants of Ardebil are distinguish'd into five quarters, or professions, who meet each by it self, and in∣treat some of their Poets,* 1.114 whereof there are a very great number in Persia, to write them some Verses, in commendation of Aly and Hossein, and making choice of those among them who sing best, they go and give the Governour a Serenade, who receives kindly, and bestows a Present of water sweetned with Sugar, on that band, which is most excellent, either as touts invention or Musick.

These Musicians being come into the Court drew up in five bands, in so many several places, and presented themselves one after another before the Governour; but, for the space of two hours, they may be rather said to cry out and roar, than to sing: after which they all came by order from the Governour, to make a Complement to the Ambassadors, and wish'd them a hap∣py journey, and good success in their Negotiation at the Court.

In the mean time, there were dancing at one place in the Court seven youths; all naked, ex∣cepting only those parts which modesty would not have seen by all. They called that kind of people Tzatzaku, and their bodies, from head to foot, were rubb'd over with Suet and Naphte, insomuch that their black skins being more shining than jet, they might very well be compar'd to so many little Devils. They had in their hands little stones, which they knock'd one against the other, and sometimes they smote their breast with them, to express their sor∣row for the death of Hossein. These Tzatzaku are poor boys, who disguise themselves in that manner, to get some small matter by it, which is, that they are permitted, during the time of the Feast, to beg Alms for Hossain's sake. At night, they do not lodge at their Homes, but ly in the ashes which are brought out of Schich-Sefi's Kitchin. Some, instead of Suet, rub themselves with Vermilion, that they may make a more lively representation of the blood of Hossein: but, at this time, there were not any such. After these Ceremonies, the Governout entertain'd the Ambassadors with noble fire-works; which most of the Persians took very ill at his hands, and thought it not over religiously done of him, to give such Divertisements to the Christians during the time of their Aschur, which ought to represent only things conducing to sadness and af∣fliction.

These fire-works consisted of several very excellent and ingenious inventions,* 1.115 as of little Ca∣stles, Towers, Squibs, Crackers, &c. The Castle, to which they first set fire, was three foot square, the Walls of Paper, of all sorts of Colours. They lighted first several small Wax-Candles about the moat of it, which discover'd the figures painted on the Paper. There came

out of it Squibs and Crackers for an hour and a half, or better, before the Castle it self took fire. Then they set fire to another invention, which they call Derbende. It was a kind of Sau∣cidge, about six Inches thick, and three foot long, casting, at first, at both ends, a shower of fire, and afterwards several Squibs and little Serpents, which falling among the people, set their Cotton Garments on fire; while they fir'd several sorts of Crackers, which in the air, were turn'd to Stars and other figures. They set fire also to several boxes; but what we most admir'd was a great kind of fire-work, which was fasten'd to the ground with great Iron Chains, and cast out fire at the mouth, with so dreadfull noise, that we were afraid it would have burst at last, and scatter its fiery entrails among the company. This fire-work they call Kumbara.

There were some, who carry'd Paper-Lanthorns upon long Poles, which were also fill'd with squibs and crackers: but what diverted us most of all, was, that, out of those Lanthorns, there came a piece of Linnen, which, being folded together, and ty'd up in knots, had, in each of those knots, several squibs, crackers and serpents, which having much ado to get out, made an ad∣mirable shew, by the windings which the fire made through all the folds of that piece of cloath. Others carried in their aprons, a certain composition, into which some that pass'd by let fire fall, as it were negligently, whereupon, he who carried it shaking his apron, there came out a great number of Stars, which burnt a long time upon the ground.

In these Fire-works, the Persians make use of white Naphte, which is a kind of Petreolum: but in regard this Drugg is seldome found in Europe, there may be used, to the same effect, the spirit of Turpentine rectify'd. We saw also, at a great distance, in the air, certain flames, which vanish'd as soon in a manner as they appear'd. I conceive these flames proceeded from a certain Drugg, which the Muscovites call 'Plaun, which is a yellow powder made of a certain herb, commonly found upon the ground, in the Forests that are planted with Pines and Birch, and is properly called in Latin, Acanthus, in French, Branche ursine, in English, Bears-foot, or Bears-britch. Every stalk of this herb hath on it two Buttons, which are ripe in August, and then the Muscovites are very carefull to gather them, dry them in an Oven, beat them, and keep the powder which comes from them in Ox-bladders, to be sold by the pound. It is us'd also in Medicine, as being a drier, and is administred with good success in Wounds, and the Itch. But the Muscovites use it for the most part in their Divertisements, putting it into a Tin∣box made like a Pyramid, into which they thrust that end of a Torch which is not lighted, and by that means make the powder come out, which being very small, immediately fastens on the flame, and is lighted, and disappears almost at the same time; so that continually thrusting in the Torch, a man makes ever and anon a new flame, which is very lively, and makes the nobler shew, in that it is not accompany'd with any smoke. This powder will not take fire, if it be not stirr'd after the foresaid manner: for if it be cast upon burning coals, or if a lighted candle be thrust into it, it would not take fire.

These Fire-works entertain'd us so long, that it was after mid-night ere we came to our Quarters, where we found not any thing colder than the Hearth; for out of a presumption, that the Governour would have treated us at Supper, there had been nothing provided at home.

The next day,* 1.116 very betimes in the Morning, before the Sun was to be seen over the Horizon, the Persians made a Procession, which was to represent the interment of Hossein. In this Pro∣cession there were carried a great many Eschders and Banners, and there were led several excel∣lent Horses and Camels, cover'd with blew Cloath, in which were to be seen many Arrows quilted, as if they had been purposely shot into it, representing those which the Enemies had shot at Hossein. Upon these Horses rid so many Boyes, who had before them empty Cossins, upon which they had cast a little Straw, or Hay, and they represented the great affliction of the Children of Hossein. Upon some of those Horses, they had set fair Turbants, Cimitars, Bows, and Quivers, full of Arrows.

As soon as the Sun was up,* 1.117 there might be seen in the base-Court, a very great number of men, who let themselves Blood in the arms, in so great quantity, that a man would have thought there had been many Oxen kill'd there. The young Lads slash'd and cut themselves above the Elbow, and clapping the Wounds with their hands, they made the Blood spurt out all over the Arm, and about the Body, and in that condition they ran up and down the City. This was done in remembrance of the effusion of the innocent Blood of Hossein; out of a per∣swasion, that, by this action, they expiated some part of their sins; which perswasion is the stronger, in as much as they are prepossess'd with an opinion, that those, who dye during this Festival, are infallibly saved. They speak also with the same assurance of their Salvation, who dye during the Festival of Aly, and in their Lent.

As concerning the City of Ardebil,* 1.118 which the Turks call Ardevil, and may be found in Maps under the name of Ardonil, it lies in the Province of Adirbeitzan, by the antients called Media Major, the chief Cities whereof are Ardebil, Tabris, or Tauris, Merrague, Natschan, Miane, Urumi, Choi, Salmas, &c. Ardebil is one of the most antient and most celebrious Ci∣ties

of all the Kingdome, not only by reason of the residence which several Kings of Persia made there, but also particularly upon this accompt, that Schich Sefi, Author of their Sect, liv'd and dy'd there. Some are of opinion, that it may be conjectur'd, from the History of Quintus Curtius, that it is the City which he calls Arbela. In this Citie are to be seen the Tombs and Monuments of the Kings of Persia; and it is a place of so great Traffick, that it may be justly numbred among the most considerable of all the East. The Turkish Language is much more com∣mon among the Inhabitants, than the Persian. I found the elevation of the Pole there, to be at thirty eight degrees, five minutes, and the longitude to be 82. degrees, 30. mi∣nutes.

It is seated in the midst of a great Plain which is above three Leagues about, and compass'd of all sides by a high Mountain like an Amphitheatre, the highest part whereof, called Sabelhan, which lies West-ward from the City, is alwayes cover'd with Snow. Towards the South-South-West, lies that Mountain of the Province of Kiban, which is called Bakru. It is from these Mountains it proceeds, that the Air there is sometimes extremely hot somtimes extremely cold; insomuch that even in August, they begin to be sensible of the inconveniences of Autumn, as also to be trou∣bled with those Epidemical Diseases, which reign there every year, and commonly carry away a great number of persons. Nor was our Quarters free from them. For besides the great num∣ber of servants who fell sick, the Ambassador Brugman and our Physician lay in of a Feaver, but especially the latter, who was reduc'd to that lowness, that there was no hope of Life. In the greatest heat of the day, and exactly at noon, there rose a kind of a Whirle-wind, which fill'd the whole City with dust; but it lasted not above an hour. The rest of the day and night is calm, which gave occasion to the Persian Proverb, Saba Ardebil, Nimrus Kardebil, that is, In the morning Ardebil, at noon, full of dust.

Yet is it not the cold quality of the Climate,* 1.119 but its Situation that hinders the earth there to produce Wine, Melons, Citrons, Orenges, and Pomegranates, which are to be had in almost all the other Provinces of Persia. Apples, Pears, and Peaches thrive very well there. Which is to be understood of the City it self, and the Plain, in which it is seated: for the Air is in∣comparably more hot and more temperate at the foot of the Mountain; whence it comes; that; thereabouts,* 1.120 you have all sorts of Fruits, and the Trees, which, in April, do but begin to bud about Ardebil, were very forward at the Village of Alaru, at the foot of the Mountain Ba∣kru. This particular of fruits only excepted, the soil thereabouts is very good, as well for arable Lands as Pastures: insomuch that the Plain, which is not very great, is able to maintain the Inhabitants of above sixty Villages, all which may be seen from the City. Besides all which, the Revenue which is rais'd for the King, from the Arabian and Turkish Shepherds, is very con∣siderable, by reason of the Liberty allow'd them to feed their Cattel thereabouts, and to Trade therewith in those parts, after they have purchas'd the Schach's Protection, or embrac'd the Religion of the Persians. Some of the Clarks belonging to the Farmers of the Revenue assured me, that within fifteen dayes before, there had pass'd over the City-Bridge above a hundred thousand sheep, and for every sheep, they pay four Kasbeki, or two pence sterl, for their pa∣sturage, and as much when the owner sells them. This last duty is called Tzaubanbeki; and the other Abschur Eleschur, or the duty of Water and Herbage, which the Turks call in one word Othbasch.

The City is somewhat, but very little, bigger than that of Scamachie, but hath no Walls. No House but hath its Garden, so that, seen at a distance, it seems rather a Forest, than a Ci∣ty. Yet are there no other Trees about it than Fruit-Trees, inasmuch as the Country produce∣ing no Wood fit for Building, nor indeed any for Firing, the Inhabitants are oblig'd to supply themselves, out of the Province of Kilan, which is six good dayes Journey distant from it. Within a League of the City, South-ward, lies a Village named Scamasbu, out of which rises a little River called Balachlu. Before it comes into the City, it divides it self into two branches, one whereof divides the City, and the other compasses it; and is joyned again to the other, and so fall together into the River Karasu. It is so apt to over-flow in the moneth of April, when the Snow upon the Mountains begins to dissolve, that if the Inhabitants of the Plain had not the industry to divert it by Trenches, which they make on that side which is towards the City, it would drown them all.

Of such an inundation, there happened an Example in the time of Schach Abas, when the violence of the water having broken the Dikes, over-threw in a moment a great number of Hou∣ses; in regard, the Walls, being built only of Mortar and Bricks bak'd in the Sun, there is not any able to stand out against the least inundation: so that the River caried away their Housholdstuff, nay many Children in their Cradles; as it had also near happened at the time of our being there, upon the 12. of April, when there were a thousand men at work day and night in making Chanels, and in turning the River by means of a Trench, which was made in the plain upon the River side, which over-flow'd all the adjacent fields. The City besides a great number of narrow strees,* 1.121 hath five very fair and broad ones, named Derwana, Tabar, Niardower, Kumbalan, and Kasirkuste: in all which they have been at the pains of planting

both sides with Elms and Linden-Trees, to have some shade against the excessive heats of the Climate.

The Market-place, or Maydan, is large and noble, as being above three hundred paces in length,* 1.122 and a hundred and fifty in breadth, and having, on all sides, Shops so orderly dispos'd that no Merchandise, no Profession but hath its particular quarter. On the right hand as you come into it, you find, behind the Sepulchre of Schich-Sefi, and the last Kings of Persia, a Metzid or Mosquey, in which lies interred Iman Sade, or one of the Children of their twelve Saints. Malefactors and Criminals may retire thither for a certain time, and thence easily get to the Monument of Schich-Sefi,* 1.123 which is their great Sanctuary. As you come out of the Market-place, you come to a place which they call Basar, where the first thing you meet with is a great square arched Building, called Kaiserie, where are sold all the precious Commodities of the Country, as Gold and Silver Brocadoes, and all sorts of precious stones, and silk stuffs,. As you come out thence, you enter, by three Gates, into so many streets, co∣ver'd over head, all beset with Shops, where are sold all sorts of Commodities. There are also in these streets, several Caravanseras or Store-houses, built for the convenience of forein Mer∣chants, as Turks, Tartars, Indians, &c. We saw there also two Chineses, who had brought thi∣ther, to be sold, Porcelane, and several things of Lacque.

There are also in the City a very great number of publick Baths, and Metzids, the chiefest whereof is that which they call,* 1.124 Metzid Adine, which is seated upon a little Hill, as it were in the midst of the City, and hath a very fair Steeple. There, the greatest Devotions are done, on holy-days, and particularly on Friday, from which it derives the name. At the entrance of the Metzid, or Church, there is a Fountain, which the late Saru Chotze, otherwise called Mahomet Risa, Chancellor of Persia; brought to that place, by a Chanel under ground, from the very source, which is in a Mountain above a League distant from the City, South-west-ward.

The Sumptuous Monuments of Schich-Sefi, and the last Kings of Persia, are near the Mei∣dan. The Persians call that place, Mesar, and Kibel-Chan, Governour of the City did us the favour to let us into them, upon Whitsun-Monday. He sent us word before hand, that, since we were so desirous to see the holy Sepulchre, we must be oblig'd to abstain from VVine that day, and that our Supper should be brought us out of Schich-Sefi's Kit∣chin.

The Ambassadors went thither immediately after Dinner,* 1.125 attended by all their Retinue, and their Guards. The Gate, at which we entred, to get into the first Court, is a very large one, and above it there was a great silver Chain, reaching from one side to the other, at which there hung such another perpendiculary in the middle. It is a Present, which A∣ga-Chan, Governour of Merrague, had, out of Devotion, made to the holy Sepulchre. This first Court is very spacious. and pav'd all over with broad stones, having on both sides great Vaults, where there are many Shops, and backwards a very fair publick Garden, open to all.

The Governour, having receiv'd us in the Base-Court, brought us to another Gate, over which there was also a Silver-Chain like the former, and it was an expression of the Devotion of Mahomed-Chan,,* 1.126 Governour of Kentza. At the entrance of this Gate, they demanded our Arms,, it being not lawful to carry any, of any kind whatsoever, to the place where the Sepulchre is; insomuch that if a Persian were found but with a knife about him, it would cost him his life. The threshold of this Gate, as also of all the following Gates, was of white Marble, and round, and notice was given us not to set our foot upon it, but to step over it, the right foot foremost, out of this reflection, that having been kiss'd by so many Millions of Millions of persons, it were, as they said, very irrational that our feet should prophane it. Thence we enter'd into another Court, which was at least as long as the first, but much nar∣rower, and pav'd after the same manner, having vaults and shops on both sides as the other. On the right hand, there came out of the Wall, by a brass-Cock, a fair Fountain (the water whereof was brought a League distance thence) that they might drink, who retir'd thither out of Devotion. At the end of this Court, on the right hand, we were shew'd a very fair and spacious Vault arched above, pav'd without, with green and blew stones, and within, hung with Tapistry. In the midst of this Vault, there were two fair brass Candlesticks with lights in them. All along the Walls sate several Priests, cloath'd in white, who sung as loud as ever they were able, expressing a great humility, and an extraordinary Devotion, by a continual moving from one side to the other; which motion was performed by them all at the same time, and with the same shaking, and that with so much exactness, that a man would have thought they had been all fasten'd to the same Cord, and that they had been all drawn at the same time.* 1.127 This place is called Thschillachane, in regard Schich-Sefi retired thither every year, to fast, eating only, for 40 days together, but one Almond a day, at least if we may believe the Relations of the Persians. Thence, we pass'd through a third Gate, over which there hung also a Silver-Chain, bestow'd on the place, by Alli-Chan, Governour of Kappan, in ano∣ther

Court which was less than the two precedent, and pav'd all over with little square-stones of several colours. We entred into the place where the Sepulchre was, by a Gate which was built like a great Tower, the Clappers whereof were all cover'd with plates of silver, and adorn'd with several Rings of the same Metal, which Gate brought us into a great Structure. The pavement before the Gate was cover'd with Tapistry, to express the holiness of the place; and we were told, that, for the said reason, it was expected, we should put off our shooes.

The Ambassadors, at first, made some difficulty to render that respect, to a place, for which they could not have any Veneration, but perceiving, that if they did it not, they would not have been permitted to go in, they at last resolv'd to comply with the custom. The Persians, to let them know, they did not any thing, that might abate ought of their Dignity, told them, that Schach-Abas himself, when he came to see the Sepulchre, many times, put off his shooes when he was come within half a League of the City, and came so far bare-foot; but that they could not expect that Devotion from us. We pass'd thence into a very fair spacious Gallery, hung, and cover'd with Tapistry: and afterwards, we entred by another Gate, cover'd with plates of Gold, into another Sumptuous Structure which was Arch'd all about. Schach-Abas, being upon the point of his departure, into the War he was then engag'd in against the Vsbeques Tar∣tars, made a vow, and promis'd, to bestow a Golden Gate on the Sepulchre of Schich-Se••i, at Ardehil, and another upon Iman Risa's at Chorasan, if his Armies had the success he expected: which vow he very religiously performed, immediately upon his return, having had all the ad∣vantages over his Enemies that his own heart could have wish'd. This Vault was about four fa∣thom square, and was enlightned by a great number of Gold and Silver Lamps; among which there were some, above three foot Diameter. On both sides sate twelve Hasifahns, or Priests, having before them, upon Desks, great books of Parchment, wherein were written, in Capital Arabian Characters, certain Chapters of the Alchoran, which they sung, much after the same manner, as our Monks do their Vespers, but with the same motion as we had observ'd at the Tschillachane. Having gone through that Vault, we came to another appartment, which was divided from it only by a Silver Rail, though rais'd higher by three silver steps, to get up into it. The Governour, and our Interpreter Rustan, having kiss'd those steps, he went into it with the Ambassadors, who took along with them four persons of their Retinue. This apartment was much more richly adorn'd than any of the rest, and there was at one end of it another place rais'd a foot from the ground, the Rails whereof were of massy Gold. It is behind that Rail or Partition, that the Sepulchre of Schich-Sefi is to be seen, built of white Marble, and not of Gold, as some have written. It was cover'd with Crimson Velvet, and rais'd three foot from the ground, being about nine foot in length, and four in breadth. From the Roof, there hung certain Lamps of Gold and Silver, and on both sides, two huge Candlesticks of massy Gold, in which there were set great Wax Candles, lighted in the night time.

The Door of that Golden Rail was lock'd,* 1.128 and though the Ambassadors were very importu∣nate to have it opened, yet could they not prevail, the Persians telling them, that the Laicks, even to the King himself, were not permitted to come within that place. In the same apartment where we then were, was to be seen, on the left hand, in a particular Vault, the Sepulchre of Schach Ismael, the first of that name; as also that of Scach-Sefi's Wife, and those of some other Queens of Persia: but we were permitted to see no more of them, than we could discover at the meeting of the Curtains, which were drawn at the entrance of it: and from what we could judge thereof, there was nothing remarkable. There came all along after us a grave old man, who, with a perfuming-pot in his hand, purify'd the places, through which we had pass'd.

Having taken notice of all that was to be seen in that place,* 1.129 we were conducted through the same Gallery, towards the right hand, into another spacious apartment, which was Arch'd all about and Gilt; where we could not but admire the manner of its building, which being near as large as a fair Church, was nevertheless sustain'd by the strength of the Roof, and without Pillars.* 1.130 This Hall is called Tzenetsera, and serves for a Library. The books were lay'd in Drawers, shuffled one upon another, without any order, but otherwise well enough kept. They were all Manuscripts, some, upon Parchment, others upon Paper, most in Arabick, and some in the Persian and Turkish Languages, but all excellently painted, richly bound, and cover'd with Plates of Gold and Silver, carv'd, and branch'd. The books of History were en∣rich'd with several representations in colours. In the Neeches of the Vault, there were above three or four hundred Vessels of Porcelane; some, so large, as that they contain'd above 40. quarts or Liquour. These only are used at the entertainments, which are brought from the Se∣pulchre, to the King and other great Lords, who pass that way: for the holiness of that place permits not that they should make use of any Gold or Silver. Nay, it is re∣ported of Schich-Sefi, that he, out of an excessive humility, made use onely of Woodden Dishes.

Thence we were brought to the Kitchin,* 1.131 the Door whereof was also cover'd with Plates of

Silver, and all things within it were so handsomly ordered, that it was not a little to be admire'd. The great Cauldrons were all set in a row, and seal'd within the Wall, along which pass'd a Pipe, which, by divers Cocks, supply'd all the Kitchin with water.

The Cooks of all degrees had every one his place,* 1.132 according to their functions and employ∣ments. This Kitchin maintains every day above a thousand persons, accompting those belong∣ing to the house, and the poor, among whom they distribute thrice a day, Pottage, Rice, and Meat; to wit, in the morning at six, at ten, and, in the after-noon at three. The two mor∣ning-meals are upon the accompt of Schich-Sefi, who, to that end, lay'd a foundation of fifty Crowns per diem; and the third is an Alms bestow'd there, by order from the King of Persia. Besides these, there are so many Alms distributed there upon the accompt of private persons, that there is not only enough to maintain the poor, but there is much over and above, which is sold to those who are asham'd to beg. At the time of these meals or distributions, they sound two Timbrels, which, as they say, were brought from Medina, with the Banner of Fatima, by Schach Sedredin.

Going out of the Kitchin, we entred into a very fair Garden, where we saw the Sepulchres of Sulthan Aider,* 1.133 Schach-Tamas, and several other Kings of Persia, which were in the open air, and without any thing over them, but a smooth stone. The principal Lords, whose Sepulchres are to be seen in this Meschaich, are,

• 1. Shich-Sefi, the son of Seid-Tzeibrail.
• 2. Schich-Sedredin, the son of Sefi.
• 3. Schich-Tzinid, the son of Sedredin, whom some Europaean Authors, erroneously call Guined.
• 4. Sulthan Aider, the son of Tzinid, who was flead alive by the Turks.
• 5. Schich Aider, the son of Sulthan Aider.
• 6. Schach-Ismael, the son of Schich Aider.
• 7. Schach Tamas, the son of Schach-Ismael.
• 8. Schach-Ismael, the second of that name; the son of Schach-Tamas.
• 9. Schach-Mahomet Choddabende, son of Schach-Ismael.
• 10. Ismael Myrsa, brother of Choddabende.
• 11. Hemsa Myrsa,
• 12. Schach Abas,
• sons of Choddabende.

Schich-Sedredin ordered his Sepulchre to be built,* 1.134 after the death of his Father, by an Archi∣tect, whom he had brought along with him from Medina, and according to a Model which he drew of it himself by Miracle (for the Persians affirm, that both he and his Father wrought many) which was, that having commanded the Architect to shut his eyes, he ravish'd him in∣to an extasie, during which, he gave him a sight of the Model, according to which he would have that Structure built, and according to which it was afterwards done. Schich-Tzinid, ad∣ding thereto the great Court, and several Houses, augmented it so as that now it seems a very noble and spacious Castle, whither there comes every day so great a number of persons, to Discourse, or Walk, that there are few Princes Courts where there are more seen. The foun∣dations of several Kings, its vast Revenues, and the Presents which are daily made thereto, do so augment the Wealth of it, that some conceive, its Treasure amounts to many Millions of Gold, and that, in case of necessity, this Mesar might raise and maintain a very powerfull Army, and that it would furnish more ready Money than the King could himself. Besides the Farms and Dairies which depend on it, it hath within the City of Ardebil two hundred Houses, nine publick Baths, eight Caravanseras, or Store-houses, that great Vault, which is called the Kaiserie, all the Meydan, with its Vaults and Shops, a hundred other Shops in the Basar, and the Market-places, where Cattel, Wheat, Salt, and Oyl are sold. The Astasnischin, or Regraters and Hucksters, and those who sell Commodities in open Market, having neither Shops, nor Stalls, pay certain duties thereto. It is possess'd, about Ardebil, of thirty three Towns or Villages; and in the Province of Serab, of five Villages. In the City of Tauris, it hath sixty Houses, and a hundred Shops, and two Villages without the City; several Caravanseras and Baths, in the City of Casuan, as also in the Province of Kilan and Astara. The duties of Abschur and Eleschur, in the Province of Mokan belong to it, and one moyety of those of Chalchat, Kermeruth, and Haschteruth, not accounting what the Tartars and Indians, who make profession of the Persian Religion send thither, nor the Presents, which are brought from all parts, in consequence of the Vows, which they are wont to make, in great Journeys, in their Sickness, nay indeed in any business of Importance, which they very Religiously per∣form. Besides all these, there are so many Gifts, Donations and Legacies made to it, that there passes not a day, but a man shall see going thither Horses, Asses, Camels, Sheep, Money, and other things. All these things are receiv'd by two Persons, who are oblig'd by an Oath to be faithful to that sacred place, and they are called Nessurtzchan, from the word Nesur, which

signifies a Vow, and they have an allowance out of the revenue of a fair Village, which is within half a League of the City, called Sultanabath; which was granted by Schich Ismael, to that purpose.* 1.135 These Commissaries are every day in an apartment on the left hand. as a man goes into the Metzid Tzillachane, and are set on both sides of a Chest or Box, cover'd with crimson Velver, into which they put the Money that is brought them, as they do also that which arises by the sale of those Horses, Camels and Asses, which are bestow'd on the Sepul∣chre: for the Oxen and Sheep are kill'd, and distributed among the poor. They give those who bring them a small Present, which is a handful of Anniseed; and they are given to un∣derstand thereby, that their Souls shall enjoy serenity and blisse in the other VVorld.

They also give the Pilgrims who come thither to do their Devotions, a Certificate of their being there, and of the Prayers they said there; which serves not only for a Testimony of the profession of their Religion, but also for a protection against several disgraces and misfortunes. nay, which is more, for the saving of their Lives. Accordingly, our Interpreter Rustan, ha∣ving resolv'd to leave us, and fearing what might follow upon the complaint which the Am∣bassadors should make to the King of him, took three authentick Copies of such a Certificate, whereof two were found among his Cloaths, after his departure, and presented, at our return, by the Ambassador Crusius, to his Highness of Holstein, in whose Library, they are still to be seen.

The Persians call these Certificates Sijaretname, and they are given, not only here, at the Sepulchre of Schich Sefi, but also at Meschet, at that of Iman Risa, and these latter are as efficacious, and have the same authority as the former. Now that it may be understood how Certificates are able to save the Lives, either of a Malefactor, or a person fallen into disgrace at the Court, I shall here allege an example of it. Not long before the time of our Travels into those parts, it happened, that Tzirra-Chan, who was a person of quality, and one so highly in favour with Schich-Sefi, that he concluded a Marriage between him and one of the Ladies of his Seraglio, coming one day somewhat late to Dinner, the King ask'd him the reason of it, and said to him, smiling, that it must needs be the caresses of his new Married Wife, kept him a∣way so long.* 1.136 He had the boldness to make answer, that his Majesty had not miss'd the mark much, that indeed he had been dallying with a Woman, but that it had been with the Wife of Agasi-Beg, who was then in the room, and discharg'd the Office of Steward, when Tzirra-Chan told the story. The King was so startled at that insolence, that, blushing, out of vexati∣on and shame together, he knew not how to lift up his eyes, to look on either of them: which Tzerra-Chan observing, and inferring thence, that he had said too much, rose from Table and went to his own House. As soon as the King had taken notice of his departure, he call'd Agasi, and said to him, Thou hast seen, Agasi, after what manner Tzirra, not thinking it enough to have dishonour'd thy House, must needs make ostentation of his lewdness, and reproach thee with thy infamy, and have the confidence to do it in my presence: Go thy ways, and bring me his head. Agasi obey'd, and went his way; but about some two hours after, the King much wondring to find that Agasi was not return'd, sends after him, to know what was become of him. The King had this account brought him, that Tzirra and Agasi had been found, like very good friends, making merry, and drinking together. Whereupon, the King not able to forbear laughing, cries out, ja Kurrumsak, O the poor Cuckold: but immediately after, reflecting on their procedure, and imagining, that it was joynt design between them to put the affront up∣on him,* 1.137 and that they laugh'd at him in their sleeves; he Commanded Aliculi-Chan, Brother to Rustan, Chan of Tauris, Divanbeg, or Judge of the Province, to go and fetch both their heads. In the mean time, Agasi coming to himself, and considering that the King never jest∣ed in things of that nature, and that he might well come to repent his neglect in executing his Commission, took leave of the company and withdrew; but Tzirra, confident of the King's favour, and presuming on the familiarity there had been between them, was so imprudent as to stay, as it were expecting the effects of his Prince's indignation, and had his Head cut off. Agasi, making his advantage of Tzirra's death, went in the mean time to the Sepulchre of I∣man Rise, whence he brought one of those Certificates, wherewith, some moneths after, he presented himself before the King; who, perceiving him coming at a distance, could not forbear laughing, and said to him, I commend thee for thy wit, my honest kind hearted Cuckold, go thy ways, I pardon thee for Iman Risa's sake; come, kiss my foot. Thus did this Sijaretname or Cer∣tificate, save Agasi Bek's his life, who was afterwards entertain'd again into the Schach's ser∣vice, not indeed in the quality of Steward, but only as a Gentleman belonging to his Chamber.

Yet is it not to be thought, but that these Secretaries, of whom such Certificates are obtained, are gulity of frauds and connivances in the disposal of them, by delivering them signed and seal∣ed, with blanks to put in the names of such as may have occasion for them; as may be seen by the Copy which is in his Highness's Library at Gottorp. Of Schich-Sefi, his Life and Miracles, we shall give an account hereafter, when we come to treat of the Religion of the Persians.

In the same Village af Kelheran, about a League and a half from Ardcbil, there is another sumptuous sepulchre, built in honour of Seid-Tsebrail,, the Father of Schich-Sefi. He was a poor Peasant,* 1.138 who not able to pretend to any thing particular, which might distinguish him from the other Inhabitants of the place, had also his Burial common with them. But Sedredin, finding the reputation of his Father's Sanctity so well establish'd, that it was become in a man∣ner Hereditary in his Person, would needs have it return backwards to his Grand-father, and to that end, caus'd his Relicks to be uncover'd, and honour'd them with a Sepulchre, at the place where it is now to be seen. Some affirm, that in the same Tomb are kept the bones of Seid-Sala, and Seid Kudbedin, Father and Grandfather of Tzebrail: but others would have all the honour done to Seid Tzebrail alone. And it is possible they may be all mistaken, it being very hard, that, after so many years, their bones and ashes could be distinguish'd from those of so many others.

The Tomb it self stood in the midst of a large Garden,* 1.139 and was built absolutely round, rais'd ten steps from the ground, adorn'd all about with glass of all sorts of colours, which are pre∣serv'd by Iron-grates, and had in the midst of its Roof, a great round Tower, built of blew and green Stones. Those of our retinue, who were desirous to go into it, were forc'd to leave their shooes and Boots at the door, as also their Swords and their Canes. The building within was of admirable Architecture. The Roof, which was Azure Gilt, was joyn'd by bow∣ing-Pillars, through which the light came in. The floor was cover'd with the richest kind of Tapistry, and the Walls, which were open of all sides, had in them other little Partitions, or Vaults, where they taught Children to read and sing the Alchoran, so to enable them in time to become Hasisans, or Guardians of that Holy Sepulchre. We found here and there, up∣on little seats, Books lying open, in order to the singing of their Service, after the same man∣ner as we had seen at the sepulchre of Schich-Sefi. The Tomb was about a man's height, and an Ell and a half in breadth, of Joyners work, all the Junctures being done over with little plates of Copper, and all cover'd with a piece of green Velvet. Over the Tomb hung four Lamps, whereof two were of Gold, the other two of Silver, which two Tziragts Chihan, or snuffers, were oblig'd to light at the cloze of the Evening, and to keep in all Night. Over a∣gainst the Tomb, there was a little Chapel, kept for the Sepulchre of several other persons of the same Family of Schich-Sefi.

From the sanctity of the place,* 1.140 it proceeds, that the Chan of Ardebil, administers an Oath to the Religious men of the place, for their fidelity thereto, as well as their allegiance to the King, as being oblig'd joyntly to serve that Holy-sepulchre and the King; whence it may be inferr'd, he hath a certain spiritual Jurisdiction as well as the temporal. As a privilege whereof, as also upon the accompt of the situation of his City, which is no Frontier, and consequently not sub∣ject to the invasion of the Turk, the Governour is freed of the charge of maintaining that num∣ber of soldiers, which the other Governours are oblig'd to raise and keep, out of the Revenue of their Governments.

His Retinue was very well ordered, not exceeding fifty persons, to whom his own Tem∣perate Life serv'd for an Example. He treated us three several times, but was guilty of no ex∣cess, and seem'd to be very temperate in all things, save that he took abundance of Tobacco, suck∣ing it through a Pipe of Cane which was put into a glass of Water, according to the Persian mode, and drunk very much Cahwa, or Coffee, to moderate the insurrections of the Cod∣piece.

What is most remarkable about Ardebil,* 1.141 is the sources of Medicinal waters, whereof there is a great number, and of several sorts, whether in order to Health or Divertisement, to which the Chan or Governour, proffer'd to bring us, and would have done it, had not the Ambass∣dors indisposition, who was then sick, prevented him.

What we can say of them upon the relations of the Persians, is, that, at the foot of the Moun∣tain Sebelan, there is a source called Serdebe, over which Sulfakar-Chan, whom we mention'd before, built a spacious Vaulted apartment. Its water which is almost luke-warm, and as clear as it is possible water can be, makes a very pleasant Bath.

Three Leagues thence, on the right side of the same Mountain, there is another source, the waters whereof are so Sulphureous and so corrupt,* 1.142 that they infect all the circumambient air. It is excellent good for the Itch, upon which accompt it is called Abcotur, a word which in the Persian Language signifies that disease.

Out of the same Mountain,* 1.143 but from another part of it, there arise three other Springs of hot or boyling water, called Meul, Daudan, and Randau. The first rises out of a little Hill, be∣tween two sources of cold water. Daudau hath also not far from it a cold Spring, the water whereof is us'd to allay the contrary qualities, by the mixture of their waters, which are brought by several Conduits into the publick Baths.* 1.144 Daudau is admirable for the several effects it pro∣duces, being sometimes very wholsome, sometimes of no use at all. To know when it may be us'd with success, they have this observation, that there may be seen in the water Serpents, which have on their heads other little white Serpents, set round about them like a Crown. When

there are none of these to be seen in it, the water hath no vertue, so that it is to no purpose to bath in it.

About half a League from the City, upon the right side of the High-way, there is a Pond, or rather a standing Pool, called Schercol, which is cover'd all over with great pieces of Salt-Peter and Salt, as with a crust of Ice, whither such as are troubled with the Itch, go and bath themselves.

Having staid two full moneths at Ardebil,* 1.145 the first of Iune, came thither a Mehemander named Abasculi-Beg,* 1.146 with orders from the King for our immediate departure thence, he being charg'd to bring us within six weeks to the Court, where he said the Ambassadors were with much im∣patience expected. But being himself an antient man, and consequently not fit to be over-ear∣nest in travelling, he left with us his son, whose care it was to conduct us to Ispahan. These new orders oblig'd Netzefbeg, who had been our Mehemander from Scamachie, to take leave of us. We requited, in some measure, his civilities towards us, with a Present of four pair of Sables, five Ells of dark grey Cloath, four Ells of green Satin, the like quantity of blew Satin of Genua, and four bottles of Aquavitae.

Abasculi did all that lay in his power to hasten our departure, and was so earnest to find us all necessary conveniences, that he caus'd the Horses and Camels to be brought to the very Doors of our Lodgings, the more to oblige us to send away the Baggage. But the Ambassador Brugman, who was resolv'd to have the brass-pieces, which he had kept till then, brought away along with us, would needs, in defiance of all perswasion to the contrary, have carriages made for them. Which to satisfie him in, the Mehemander was forc'd to make use of certain Trees, which were an Ornament to the City, after many remonstrances, of the impossibility which he told us we should meet with by the way, to draw Artillery after us. So that we found our selves insensibly engag'd to make a longer stay there than we expected; for, though they us'd all possible diligence to make the said Carriages, yet was our journey put off for eight dayes longer.

At last, all things being ready, there was sent to the Chan three pair of the best kind of Sables, whereof the Persians make very great account, a striking-Clock, a Chest, or Cellar, containing twelve bottles of Ros Solis, and two pictures, done by our own Painter, representing a Per∣son of quality and a Lady, dress'd after the French mode. He sent back to the Ambassadors, each of them an excellent Horse, with their Bridles and Saddles, set out with Silver-plates, two pieces of Satin, one red the other blew, one piece of Gold and Silver Brocado, one piece of Cotton-stuff, with flowers of silk, and a piece of Cushion Canvas, with flowers of gold and silver.

Iune 10. the Mehemander brought a hundred and sixty Horses,* 1.147 and twelve Camels, as well for the Baggage, as the six pieces of Artillery. The next day, we sent away both, and on the 12. followed our selves. The Ambassador Brugman, who was yet weak, though recover'd of his Feaver, was carried in a Horse-Litter, and went away about five in the morning, at∣tended by thirty persons of our Retinue. Most of the Inhabitants, who had no notice of our departure, and had never seen any Litter before, finding it cover'd with Cloath, and compass'd by men on Horse-back, imagin'd we were going to celebrate some Festival in the Country, and that the Litter carried the mysteries of our Religion. The Ambassador Crusius went away a∣bout eight, with the rest of the Retinue. Kelbele-Chan was gone before to a Garden, with∣out the City, expecting the Ambassadors, that he might take leave of them, it being not their custom, no more than it is in some other places, to conduct Strangers at their departure, with the same Ceremonies as they had receiv'd them, withall, it being, according to their perswasi∣on, an incivility, to bring such as they had before kindly entertain'd, out of their Lodgings. Accordingly, after we had travell'd about a League, we met him in the fields, and with him a Sulthan of Tabris, who being Marshal in the Persian Army, had about him a considerable num∣ber of people, who were all cover'd with Tygres and Lynx's skins, and by their countenances discover'd the quality of their Master. The Governour carried the Ambassador Crusius into the Ottaks, or Huts of the Tartarian shepherds, not much out of the High-way, whither he had brought abundance of cold Meat, Fruits and Conserves.

Having taken leave of him,* 1.148 we prosecuted our journey, over a high and craggy Mountain, till we came to the Village of Busum, which lies in a bottom, four Leagues from Ardebil. There we over-took our Baggage and our Artillery; but the Wheels of the Carriages were so spent, that the Ambassador Brugman was, with much ado, perswaded, that it were more con∣venient to leave the six greater Pieces there, upon the promise made by the Mehemander, that he would get an order from the King to the Governour of Ardebil, to have them sent after us, and to that end, he took the bore and size of them. We took along with us the two little brass Pieces, weighing each of them 300. weight, and four murchering Pieces.

Iune the 13. we continu'd our journey, through very bad way, and over Mountains with such dreadfull precipices, that not thinking it safe to trust the Beasts with the Litter, wherein the Ambassador Brugman lay, we had it carried by men. In the Vallies, we found many great

Villages and Huts, and excellent Meadows, all cover'd with fair Cattel. Having travell'd five Leagues, or better that day, we came at night to a Village called Sengoa, where we found a Melik,* 1.149 or Receiver general of the whole Province of Chalcal, which begins at that Village, and reaches as far as the River Kisilosein. His name was Baindur, and he had succeeded his Father in that employment, who had been so much in favour with Schach-Abas, that with one of the VVomen of his Seraglio, whom he married, he gave him two or three great Lord∣ships.

The 14. our way lay still over high Mountains,* 1.150 yet in our way, we pass'd through three Villages, where our Mehemandar fail'd not, according to his custom, to take up Horses, pre∣tending they were for us, that the Countrey people might be oblig'd to redeem them. Having travell'd four farsangs, or leagues, we came into a very pleasant Valley, where we lodg'd near a delightfull Spring. And whereas we had some occasion to stay there till the next day at noon, I had the leasure to observe the height of the Sun there, and found, that we were at thirty seven degrees,* 1.151 and twenty minutes of the Line. In this place, we saw green Grass-Hoppers, which were above three Inches in length, and one and a half in compass.

The 15. presently after Dinner, we set forward on our journey, and the Ambassador Brug∣man finding himself a little more hearty, got on Hors-back with the rest. Before we got to the dreadful Mountain Taurus, which the Persians call Perdelis, we came to a bottom, which pre∣sented it self to our view like an Abyss. We were two hours in getting down to it, and above three in getting out of it, though between the points of the Mountains, there seem'd not to be half a League distance. It is a most dangerous passage for Travellers, who are oblig'd to come in strong parties, for fear of falling into the hands of Robbers, who discover, at a distance, the number of passengers, and accordingly judge whether they can engage them, or must let them alone.

There runs through the bottom the River Kisilosein,* 1.152 which falls into it through Rocks and Precipices, with an inconceivable swiftness, and a noise that stuns the passengers. The waters of it are whitish; whence it comes that in the Province of Kilan, where it falls into the Caspian Sea, it is, in Talisman, called Isperuth. Schach-Tamas built a very fair Bridge over it, of Brick, containing nine Arches. The way was planted on both sides with wild Almond-Trees, Cy∣press, and Sena-Trees. Having cross'd the River, we came to the Ascent, which was very steepy, though it went still winding till it came to the top of the Mountain, and it was so hard to get up, that to advance ought, we were many times forc'd to step up as if we got up a pair of stairs: having in the mean time on our left hand, Precipices and Abysses so dreadfull to look on, that the Mule of a Muscovian Ambassador falling down there, was never after seen or heard of: insomuch that thinking it not safe to ride it up, we alighted, and led our Horses.

By that time we were got to the top of the Mountain it was night, and that so dark, that we lost our way, in the absence of our Mehemandar, who had stay'd behind in some Villages in the bottom. We were gotten into very dangerous wayes, and went still a-foot, though the trouble we had been at, (which had put us all into a sweat) weariness, and the cold, which beat into our faces, might well have prevail'd with us to make use of our Horses. We were three whole hours, ere we overcame the darkness of the night, and all other imaginable incon∣veniences; but at last about midnight, we got to the Village of Keintze, four Leagues from our last Lodging. We stay'd there all the next day, as well in expectation of our Mehemandar, and to give our Horses a little rest, as to refresh our selves, after the precedent day's weariness, with the Divertisement, which Wine, our Musick, and the noise of our Artillery could afford us.* 1.153 We intended to give our Mehemandar a sharp reprehension, and reproach him with his negligence; but he soon stopp'd our mouths, telling us, that he could not but acknowledge himself oblig'd by his charge, to wait on the Ambassadors, and that he should not have neg∣lected their service; but that he had not the heart to hear the injurious, and blasphemous ex∣pressions, which fell every foot from the Ambassador Brugman, which yet should not hinder him from taking order, that we should be plentifully supply'd with Provisions; wherein, to give him his due, he failed not, and contributed much to the good Cheer we made that day.

The 17. we left Keintze, after the mid-day's great heat was a little over: but our Mehe∣mandar, instead of Conducting us along the High-way, made us turn on the right hand, and Lodg'd us in a Village, called Hatzimir, seated in a bottom, which was, of all sides, encom∣pass'd with Rocks. The Melik, or Receiver of the place, treated us with certain Basins of fruit, Apricocks and Grapes, which were not fully ripe, and a sack of Wine, wherewith we made a Collation, which serv'd us for a Supper: for our Cook, presuming we should have kept the High-way, was gone before us with all the Provisions.

Iune 18. we got on Horse-back after Sermon, and Dinner, marching after the rate of a full trot, between two very sleepy Hills, and we came about midnight to the Village of Kamahl, which is two leagues or better out of the High-way, and six from our last Lodging, and we

were Lodg'd in several houses, scatter'd up and down, upon three hills. They had taken up for the Ambassadors a great unfurnish'd house, at the entrance of the Village; but finding there was no convenienee at all for them, they refus'd to Lodge there; and having left two of their Guard upon the Avenues of the Village, to give an account of them to the rest of the Reti∣nue, they took up other Lodgings, and we after their example, though the Country-people, who were surpriz'd at our unexpected arrival, and could not so soon get their Wives and Daugh∣ters out of the way, deny'd us entrance, and put us to the necessity of taking up Quarters by force, half-dead as we were with cold, and spent with hard travelling. But we were hardly laid down, hoping to rest our selves the remainder of that night, when our Trumpet sounding to horse,* 1.154 made us get out of our Beds, to see what the matter should be. Being come to the Trumpetter, he brought us to the Ambassadors Lodgings, where we understood that twenty Persians of the same Village, all hors'd, had set upon, abus'd, and dis-arm'd the Guard which the Ambassadors had left upon the Avenues of the Village, and that they had kill'd them, if our Steward, with the Muscovian Interpreter, who, by reason of his sickness, had not been able to follow us, had not come up to their relief, and made the Persians draw back, fearing there might be others coming after them. There was a Lieutenant with twenty Mus∣ketiers commanded out, to clear the High-ways all about, and all the Retinue were Lodg'd as near as could be to the Ambassadors.

The 19. we continu'd in the same place, where we caus'd Tents to be pitch'd. Here our Secretary fell sick of a burning Feaver.

The next day, being the 20. we departed thence about two in the mo••ning, and march'd all the Fore-noon, which was extremely hot, through a vast Plain, where we saw only barren and heathy grounds.* 1.155 About noon we came to the little City of Senkan, six Leagues from Ca∣mahl. The City is not enclos'd with a Wall, but is otherwise sufficiently well built. Within half a League of the City, we receiv'd from the Governour of Sulthanie, who was then in the City, a Present of certain Dishes of Apr••cocks and Cowcumbers, which were a great refresh∣ment to us, in that excessive heat and sultriness of weather.

At the extremity of the Suburbs we were met by thirty persons on Horse-back, well mount∣ed, who receiv'd us in the name of the Governour of Sulthanie, whose name was Sewinduc Sul∣than.* 1.156 Among these Gentlemen there was one, who, though he had neither hands nor feet, yet made a shift to guide his horse, with as much skill as any of the rest. He was son to one of the principal Inhabitants of the City, who had been heretofore much in favour with Schach-Abas, the Grand-father of Schach-Sefi, for his Poems, and other excellent Productions of his Under∣standing; upon the accompt whereof, he was so well respected at Court; that the King not only granted him the life of his son, who for some Crimes had deserv'd death, but would also continue him in his favour, contrary to the custom of the Country, according to which all the relations of a Malefactor, or unfortunate person, participate of his disgrace or misfortune. The young man had been guilty of strange debauches and extravagances, even to the Ravishing of Maids and Women in their houses, so often reiterated, that they became at last insuppor∣table; so that the Schach ordered him, to have his hands and feet cut off, and caus'd the stumps of his arms and legs to be thrust into boyling Butter, to stop the blood. He had wooden hands, crooked at the extremities, wherewith he made a shift to hold his Bridle.

The City of Senkan was heretofore of a considerable bigness,* 1.157 and famous for its Trading, before Tamberlane destroy'd it: but what reduc'd it to the condition it is in now, is the Turk, who hath taken and plunder'd it several times. Yet are there some very handsome houses in it, and those well furnish'd, in which we were entertain'd with much civility, and our sick people extremely well accommodated. The Sulthan came to visit the Ambassadors immediately after their arrival, and made his excuses that he had not met them; which was upon this score, that having been wounded in the shoulder at the siege of Eruan, and the wound being lately open∣ed, he could not have waited on us in person. We sent to him our Physician and Chyrurgeon, who dress'd him; which he look'd on as so great a kindness, that he thought it not requital e∣nough to send us a Present of several excellent Fruits, but he also doubled the ordinary allow∣ance of our Provisions.

All about this City, there are only Barren and Sandy grounds, which bring forth only Bri∣ars of about the height of a mans hand.

About half a League from it,* 1.158 there may be seen a branch of the Mountain Taurus, which they call Peydar Peijamber, and reaches from North to South, towards Kurdesthan, where may be seen, as they affirm, the Sepulchre of one of the most antient Prophets, from whom the Mountain derives its name. At the foot of this Mountain there is a very pleasant Valley, which is checquer'd up and down with a great number of Villages.

Iune 21. having stay'd till the great Heat were over, we left Senkan after Sun-set, taking our way,* 1.159 by Moon-light, through a Plain of six Leagues, at the end whereof we came, with the Sun-rising, to Sulthanie. It had been so calm and cold in the Night, that we had hardly

the use of our Limbs, so that we had much ado to alight. This sudden change, from extreme cold, to the excessive heats of the next day, occasion'd the falling sick of fifteen persons of our retinue at the same time, all of a violent burning Feaver, the fits whereof were very frequent, accompany'd with a benumd'ness of all the Members: but that misfortune hindred not but that they were set on horse-back, and though to avoid the heats of the day, we afterwards travel'd only by night, yet were they so far from over-mastering their former weariness, that they were brought lower and lower. Two of our Guards took occasion to fall out at this place, and fought a Duel, wherein one of the two, who was a Scotch-man, named Thomas Craig, was run into the Lights, near the Heart, of which VVound he lay long sick, but at last was Cur'd.

As to the City of Sulthanie,* 1.160 it lies at eighty four degrees, five minutes Longitude, and at thirty six degrees, thirty minutes Latitude, in a spacious Plain, which is not, as Mr. Cart∣wright writes, encompass'd of all sides with a great Mountain; but it hath indeed on both sides, especially on the right hand, the Mountain of Keidar. It makes a great shew at a di∣stance, by reason of some very sumptuous structures, and a great number of steeples, and great Pillars, which dazle the eye on the out-side; but within it is in a manner desolate, and when a man comes near it, he finds the Walls almost even with the ground. It was heretofore one of the greatest, and noblest Cities of all Persia, being above half a League in length, as may be yet seen by the marks upon the way of Hamedan, half a League or better from the City, in a gate which hath belonging to it,* 1.161 and a Tower, which some affirm was heretofore part of the City Walls. Sulthan Mahomet Chodabende, having joyn'd to his other Territories some part of the Indies, as also of the Vsbeques, and Turky, built it out of the ruins of the antient City of Tigranocerta, and made it the seat of his Empire, from whom it derives the name of Sul∣thania: inasmuch as heretofore, the Kings of Persia were not called Schachs, as they are now, but they assum'd the quality of Sulthan, as the Grand Seigneur does. Chotza Reschid, King of Persia, whom Ios. Barbarus calls Giansam, destroy'd some part of the City of Sulthania, upon a Rebellion of the Inhabitants, and what he had left, Tamberlane made an end of. We saw there the ruins of a very fair Castle, which had serv'd the King for a Palace, and the City for a Cittadel, there being yet standing some part of its Walls, all built of square pieces of free∣stone, and adorn'd with a great number of quadrangular Towers. The noblest buildings in it, or Emerat, is the Metzid or Mosquey, where is to be seen the Sepulchre of Mahumed Chu∣dabende. It hath three gates, very much higher than those of St. Marks at Venice, and are not of Brass or Copper, as Bizarrus relates, but of Steel, polish'd, and wrough Da∣mask-wi••e.

The greatest of the three gates, which is over against the Meydan, or Market-place, would not open, as they affirm, even though twenty of the strongest men could be chosen should endeavour all they could to thrust it open, if they do not pronounce these words, Beask Aly Bukscha,* 1.162 that is, be opened for Aly's sake, and then the Gate turns to and fro upon its hindges, with so much ease, that, no Child but may open it. The whole roof which grows narrower and narrower up towards the top, is built with white and blew stones, which, in se∣veral places, have very fair Characters, and excellent Figures done upon them. One part of the structure was divided from the other by a brass Grate or Rail, for the Sepulchre of Maho∣met Chudabende, making a kind of Quire, where we saw several old Arabick Books, above half an Ell square, having Letters as long as a man's finger, and black and golden Lines alter∣nately. I made a shift to get some of the Leaves, which I still very carefully keep in the Prin∣ce's Library.* 1.163 It is some part of the Paraphrase upon the Alchoran, which they call Serats Elku∣lub, or Candle of the Heart, and begins with a Fable, the relation whereof the Reader may haply think worth his reading. He says then, that God banish'd the Devils, and had shut Hea∣ven Gate upon them, yet had they still a desire to know what the Angels did, and what they said of the good or ill fortunes of men, that they might give them notice thereof, by the means of Fortune-tellers and Sorcerers. To dive into these secrets, they thought the only way was to get up on one anothers shoulders, till such time as the last could put his Ear to Heaven Gate. God perceiving their temerarious attempt, darted on the head of the foremost of them a Star, which is called in Arabick Schihab, which striking through all the Devils immediately reduc'd them to ashes: But that this judgement hinders not, but that sometimes the Devils make use of the same means, to endeavour to dive into the secrets of Paradice, though they are often pu∣nish'd for it. Thence is it, that when the Persians see one of those Meteors, which to our sight appear as Stars,* 1.164 and seem to fall down to the earth, they rejoyce thereat, and pronounce these words.

Chodanike dascht mat a es schitan, H••me busuchtend we ma Chalas sehudim.

That is to say, God of his goodness keep us from the Devil; they shall all be reduc'd to ashes, and we shall be delivered from them.

The Sepulchre of Sulthan Mahomed Chodabende is to be seen through a grate of admirable workmanship, at the end of the Temple, on that side where the Meherab or Altar, stands. This grate is certainly one of the noblest things that are to be seen all over Persia, being made of Indian Steel, polish'd and wrought Damask-wise, the Barrs being about the bigness of a mans arm, and so neatly wrought that the Junctures are hardly discernable. Nay some affirm it is all of a piece, and that there were seven years spent in the doing of it, at the end whereof Chodabende had it transported from the Indies, together with the Gates of the Mosquey, to the place where they are now to be seen.

There were in the same Emerat,* 1.165 twenty brass Guns and a Mortar-piece, and among the rest, four pieces of Battery, the others Culverings, all set upon carriages with four wheels. The Mortar-piece was mark'd with a spread Eagle, above which were these two Letters A. and Z. and under it an A. The Balls were of Marble. The Tower was built in the form of an Octo∣gone, and compass'd about with a great Gallery, which had eight little Towers, up to which there was an ascent by eight low steps. At the entrance of the Mosquey there was a square Fountain, into which the water was brought from a Spring rising out of the Mountain Keider. There is also belonging to it a very fair Garden, and a Summe-house.

There is in the same City another fair Mosquey, founded by Schach Ismael, the first of that name. The entrance into it is through a very fair and large Gate, over which there is a round Tower: and the first thing offers it self to your view is a noble Pyramid, somewhat decay'd at the top, having about it eight fair Pillars of Marble. Then is it that you come into the Mos∣quey it self, which is very high and well arched, having a great number of Pillars which up-hold the Roof, with pleasant Galleries, and in the midst a rich Pulpit. This also hath a fair Garden belonging to it, in the midst whereof there is a Tower, whose point ends in a Pyramid.

These structures do in some measure oblige us to credit what Paulus Iovius sayes,* 1.166 in the 14. Book of his History; as also what F. Perodin confirms, in the Life of Tamberlane, to wit, that that barbarous Commander, who over-ran all that lay in his way like a Torrent, yet ex∣press'd a certain respect for those things, which were, though out of superstition, accompted sacred.

Near this Mosquey there is also to be seen another great Gate, of free-stone, between two Pillars, twenty fathom high, which seems to be antique, and had been built at the Ceremonies of some Triumph; but it begins now to decay.

The City hath about six thousand Inhabitants, who wondred very much to hear us relate, that some of those who have published their Travels into Persia, would make the World be∣lieve, that the cold weather forc'd them in the Winter time to forsake the City, and change their Habitations. For, it is so far from being true, that there are many places in Persia, where the cold obliges the Inhabitants to change their Habitations, that, on the contrary, it is an effect ordinarily caus'd there by the Heat.

True indeed it is, that there are some places in that Kingdome, where the cold is very in∣commodious, by reason of the scarcity of firing, as for instance, near Eruan, at a place called Deralekes, as being seated between two Mountains, and especially at the Village of Arpa. But it is not so great as to oblige the Inhabitants to change their Habitations: for they only quit their upper Rooms, and retire into Cellars, built very deep under ground, not only to serve them for a place of retirement in the Winter time, against the cold, but also in Summer, against the heat.

Iune 25. we left Sulthanie,* 1.167 after we had staid there three dayes, which were spent up and down the Country, in getting us fresh Horses and Camels. The sick persons, who by reason of their weakness, were not able to ride on Horse-back, were dispos'd into such Chests, as the Women make use of when they travel. The Persians call them Ketzawhea, and they are put on Camels backs, like Carriers packs. The Physician and my self were set upon the same Ca∣mel, whereby we were put to two great inconveniences, one proceeding from the violent Mo∣tion caus'd by the going of that great Beast, which at every step, gave us a furious jolt; and the other, from the insupportable stink of the Camels, whereof there being but one Boy to guide eight or ten, they were ty'd one to another, and went all in a file, insomuch that the infectious smell of all that went before, came full into our Noses.

We departed two hours before Sun-rising, and travell'd that day six Leagues, through a very fertil Country, all arable and pasture Lands, leaving, on the left hand, the little Mountains called Tzikitz••ki, where the King of Persia's best Race-Horses and Mares for breed are kept. About noon we took up our Lodging at the Village of Choramdah, which lies on the side of a little River, having so many Trees and Gardens about it, that it is not without reason that name is given it, which signifies, a place of Pleasure.

The 26. we departed thence in the night, and travell'd five Leagues or better, over Mountains and Valleys.

The 27. we departed at mid-night, and, having travell'd five Leagues, we were got, by Sun∣rising,

near the City of Casuin, or Cashan; but that the Daruga, who had the Command of it, might have the leisure to set his affairs in order for our entrance, our Mehemander carried us to a Village were we staid above two hours till such time as the Daruga came to receive us. This entrance was not accompany'd with the same Ceremonies as we had seen in other places, in re∣gard the Governour, having not the dignity of Chan, could not express the same Magnificence. Yet was it handsom enough, in as much as the Daruga came attended by five or six hundred men, horse and foot. There came also to meet us an Indian Prince, accompany'd by some Gentle∣men on horse-back of his own Countrey, and follow'd by a great number of Lacqueys and Pa∣ges. He came in a kind of Chariot, having one other person with him in it. The Chariot was drawn by two white Oxen, which had very short necks, and a bunch between the two shoul∣ders, but they were as swift and manageable as our horses. The Chariot was cover'd above, and lay'd over two Wheels, which instead of an Axletree, turn'd upon a piece of Iron, made so crook'd at the middle, that it bore the weight of the whole Chariot. The Charioteer sate before, and guided the Oxen, fasten'd to a Beam, which was made fast to the Horns, with a Cord drawn through their Nostrils.

Being come within 500. paces of the City, we met with fifteen young Ladies, excellently well mounted, very richly clad in Cloath of Gold and Silver, &c. having Neck-laces of great Pearls about their necks, Pendants in their ears, and abundance of other Jewels. Their faces were to be seen, contrary to the custom of honest Women in Persia. Accordingly, we soon found, as well by their confident carriage, as the accompt given us of them, that they were some of the Eminent Curtezans about the City, who came to entertain us with the Divertise∣ment of their Musick. They march'd before us, and sung, to the sound of certain Hawboyes, and Bag-pipes, that went before them, making a very extravagant kind of Harmony. And that we might be sure to see the City, we were carried quite through it, and Lodg'd on the other side thereof.

As we pass'd through the Meydan, we saw several persons playing on Timbrels, and Haw∣boyes, who, joyning with the other Musicians, accompany'd us to our Quarters. The peo∣ple came also thither in great numbers, some of them having it put into their heads, that there were in the Ketzawehas, some great Beauties, whom we carried as ••••••ents to the King: but when they saw sick persons with great beards coming out of them, they hung down their heads, and made all the haste they could away.

I found this City,* 1.168 conformably to the Calculation of the Persians and Arabians, at 85. de∣grees Longitude, and at 36. degrees, 15. minutes Latitude. It is one of the principal Cities of the Province of Erak, which is the ancient Parthia, wherein is comprehended as well Sulthania, as all the other Cities,* 1.169 froth this place as far as Ispahan. It was antiently called Arsacia, and it is seated in a great sandy Plain, having, within half a dayes journey of it, Westward, the great Mountain of Elwend, which reaches towards the South-west, as far as Bagdat or Babylon. The City is a farsang, or good German league in compass, but hath neither Walls, nor any Garrison kept in it,* 1.170 by reason it lies at so great a distance from the Frontiers. Yet hath it, with these disadvantages, above a hundred thousand Inhabitants, whereof, if there were occasion for them, a good part might be put into Arms. Their Language is the Persian, but somewhat different from the common Dialect,* 1.171 whence it comes that it is not so intelligible to the other Persians, being much after the rate that the German Language is to the Hollanders. The hou∣ses are all of Brick bak'd in the Sun, according to the Persian way, having not any Ornament without, but within, they are very well furnish'd, as to Vaults, Wainscoats, Paintings, and other Houshold-stuff.

The Streets are not pav'd, whence it comes, that, upon the least wind, the City is fill'd with dust. It hath no other water than what is brought by aqueducts from the Mountain of Elwend, into Cesterns, wherein it is preserv'd. No house almost but hath a particular place for the keeping of Ice and Snow, for the Summer. VVe were forc'd to get into these, to avoid the ex∣cessive heat.

Heretofore,* 1.172 the Kings of Persia had their ordinary residence at this place, at least, ever after Schach-Tamas transferr'd the Seat of the Empire from Tauris to this City. Some attribute that translation to Schach-Ismael, though the continual VVars he was engag'd in, suffered him not to stay long in any one place. But it is not question'd but that he built the noble Palace which stands near the Maidan, which hath belonging to it a fair Garden, adorn'd as well without as within, with Guilding, Painting, and such other embellishments as are in use among the Persians.

There was another Garden opposite to this Palace,* 1.173 which was above half a league in com∣pass, and had several little Structures within it. This was one of the most pleasant Gardens that I ever saw, not only by reason of the great number of all sorts of Trees, as Apples, Pears, Peaches, Apricocks, Pomegranates, Almonds, and other Fruit-trees, but also by reason of the fair walks of Cypress, and the Trees called Tzinnar which gave us a very pleasant Pro∣spect.

This City hath two great Market-places. Cartwright names the bigger of the two Atmai∣dan, and says, that, in the Persian Language, it signifies a Horse-market. I could never find, that in any part of Persia,* 1.174 there was a Market, purposely for the buying and selling of Hor∣ses: whereupon, considering with my self that the Persians, who call, by the general name of Maidan, all those Markets, where all things are indifferently sold, I imagine, that Author's mistake proceeded hence, that, being ignorant of the Arabick, he read Atmaydan, for Al∣maidan, al, being the Article, without which the Persians and Arabiaas never pronounce the word Maidan. The greater of these Maidans, or Market-places, is somewhat longer, but not so broad as that of Ardebil, and hath, on the South-side, several great places, built by some of the Chans and Persian Lords. The most magnificent amongst them are those of Alla∣werdi-Chan, Governour of Schiras; that of Aliculi-Chan, President of Justice; that of Ma∣homet-Chan, Chan, or Governour of Kentze; and that of Sehich-Achmed-Chan, who was great Provest in the reign of Schach-Abas. The other Market-place is called Senke-Maidan, and is towards the West part of the City. In both the Market-places, as also in the Bazars, or Shops and Store-houses, which are in the cover'd streets, there may be seen a great number of Merchants, and abundance of Commodities, which are to be bought there at a very reaso∣nable rate.

I my self bought Turqueses there, which they call Firuse, and are found in great quanti∣ties near Nisabur,* 1.175 and Firusku, of about the bigness of a Pea, nay, some as big as little Beans, for two shillings, or two and six pence at the most. Rubies and Granates were also ve∣ry cheap there.

In the Evening, after the shops are shut, there is, on the East-side, another kind of Commodi∣ty exposed to sale, to wit, a considerable number of the Cabbeha, or common Traders, who there prostitute themselves to any that will take them up. They all sit in a row, having their faces cover'd with a Veil, and behind them there stands a Bawd, whom they call Delal, who hath by her a bed, and a quilted coverlet, and holds in her hand a Candle unlighted, which, when any Customer comes, she presently lights, that he may look the Wench in the face, and or∣der her to follow him, whom he likes best among them.

On the East-side of the City lies the Church-yard,* 1.176 where there is to be seen, in a fair Mos∣quey, the Sepulchre of Schahesade Hossein, one of the sons of Hossein, at which the Oaths taken in Law-sutes are administred; a custom which is also observed in all other parts of Persia, at the places where there are any Sepulchres of Saints, or those of any of their kin••ed. Whence it comes, that the Persians, when they make some difficulty of crediting what is said to them, immediately ask, Scahe Sade Hussein, pile Musef; that is, dar'st thou affirm that upon the Saints Sepulchre, or upon the Alchoran? Besides this Mosquey or Metzit, there are about fif∣ty more, 〈…〉〈…〉 whereof is that which they call Tzame Metzid, where they assemble on Fridays 〈…〉〈…〉 prayers.

There 〈…〉〈…〉 the City of Caswin many Caravanseras,* 1.177 for the convenience of foreign Mer∣chants, and a great number of publick Baths. There is one behind the Garden belonging to the King's Palace, which they call Haman Charabe. It is now half destroy'd, and there is a story told of it, which I conceive pleasant enough to deserve insertion into this Relation. They say, that there lived heretofore at Caswin a very famous Physician,* 1.178 named Lokman, a black Ara∣bian, who had acquired so great reputation, not only by the Books he had written in Medi∣cine, but also by many other excellent productions of his understanding, that the Inhabitants have still a very great Veneration for his memory. Nay it is to be found in their Kulusthan, that they gave him the surname of Wise, when in the 2. Book, ch. 16. they say, Lokman hakimra kuftendi Aedebeski amuchti? Kust, es biedbahn. Herstze ischan kerdend, men pertis Kerdem. That is, that the wise Lokman, being asked one day by what means he had attain'd so great Lear∣ning and Knowledge, he made answer, it was by means of the ignorant and uncivil, for he had always done what was contrary to what he had seen them do. This Lokman having attain'd a great age, and being upon his death-bed, sent for his Son, and told him, that he would leave him an inestimable Treasure, and having commanded to be brought him three Glasses, full of cer∣tain Medicinal waters, he said they had the vertue to raise up a Dead man to Life, if they were apply'd before the body began to corrupt. That, casting upon the Deceas'd the water which was in the first Glass, the Soul would return into the Body, that, upon the pouring of the second, the Body would stand upright; and that upon the third, the Person would be ab∣solutely alive, and should do all things as before; that however he had very seldome made use of this Experiment, out of a fear of committing a sin, by undertaking to intermeddle with that which is reserv'd to God alone; and that out of the same Consideration, he exhorted him to be very careful how he made use of it, as being a secret rather to be admir'd, than put often to experience. With these exhortations Lokman dying, his Son was very mindful of the ad∣vice he had given him, and ••••cending the same tenderness of Conscience as his Father had ex∣press'd before him, he reserv'd the Glasses till he might have occasion to make tryal of them upon himself. Accordingly being at the point of Death, he commanded a man that waited on

him, to make use of those Glasses, as his Father had taught him. The man having caus'd his Master's Body to be brought into the Bath we spoke of before, poured upon it the two first Glasses, which wrought the effect, which Lokman had promised they should; insomuch that the Master sitting up, and impatient to return to Life, cries out, bris, bris, that is to say, pour, pour; at which words the fellow was so frightned, that he let the third Glass fall down to the ground; so that the unfortunate Lokman Sade was forc'd to lye down again, and take the Journey which all other Mortals do. The Persians confidently affirm, that, near this ruinous Bath, that Voice af bris, bris, is still many times heard. They relate several other stories of this Lokman, but I shall forbear any account of them, thinking it enough to have produced one, to shew the vanity of all the rest.

Some years since, in the time of King Abas, a certain man named Risa, began to take up∣on him the quality of Schich,* 1.179 or Prophet, and to broach a new Doctrine, imagining he might in time, acquire the same credit and authority, as had before rais'd Schich-Sefi to so great repu∣tation. The humour of the Persians, who are extremely addicted to novelty, brought after him, in a short time, above thirty thousand men, who, cajoll'd by the apparent sanctity of this new Prophet, were become followers of him. Schach-Abas, fearing this novelty might di∣sturb the quiet of his Country, sent for Risa, making him believe, that he was desirous to be instructed in the particulars of his Doctrine: but when he was come, the King commanded him to confirm it by miracles, which Risa not able to do, he put him to death as an Impostor.

It will not be amiss here to give some accompt how the Indian Prince came to live at Caswin,* 1.180 when we came into those parts. The great Mogul, who liv'd in the time of Schach-Abas, left, at his Death, two Sons: The elder, who succeeded the Father, soon after died, leaving be∣hind him only that Myrsa Polagi, whom we found at Caswin, who was but very young when his Father died. Choram, youngest Son of that Mogul, and Uncle to young Polagi, took his advantage of that Conjuncture, to usurp the Crown, and accordingly he was King of Indosthan at the time of our Travels into Persia. The cruelty of Choram's reign, and the mild nature and inclinations of Polagi, who in the mean time was arriv'd to a considerable age, drew upon him the affections of the People, and the hatred of his Uncle. In so much, that Choram, perceiving that it was the design of the Indians to bring his Nephew into the Throne, would prevent them, by dispatching Polagi out of the way, who having notice of his Uncles wicked intentions against him, retires into Persia, and puts himself under the Schach's Protection. All the time before, his Residence had been at Ispahan, where the King allow'd him a pension of 12000 Crowns per an. but he was oblig'd then to retire to Caswin, by reason of a solemn Embassy, which the Mogul sent to the King of Persia, purposely to demand him; though that during the space of three years that the said Ambassador had been there, he had not prevail'd to have him delivered up.

The Kings of Persia live in perpetual jealousie of the Indians, with whom they never have any assured peace, by reason of the Frontiers of Candahar, which finds Exercise for both sides, as those of Babylon do on the Turks side: insomuch that the Persians take their advantage of a∣ny occasion, to foment the discontents of the Grandees, as they do any other distractions tending to Civil War. Whence it comes, that they never deny their Protection to the Indian Princes, who are willing to retire into Persia, to oblige by that means the Mogul to assist them against the Turk, and to continue the Commerce, which the Persians have with the Indians, from which Persia derives so great advantages, that the obstruction thereof would be an infinite loss to it. There are several instances of these Protections under Schach-Ismael, and Schach-Tamas. Under the reign of the latter it happened, that Selim, who, as eldest of the House, had suc∣ceeded his Father, died soon after, leaving only one Son, very young, named Humajun. Tze∣laledin Ekber, younger Brother to the Deceas'd, who slighting the infancy of his Nephew, takes possession of the Scepter, and the more to assure himself thereof, he had a design to mur∣ther the right heir of the Crown. Humajun had notice of it, and got to Persia. Tzelaledin hearing of it, sent to demand him, with this message to the King of Persia, that if he sent him not back, he would come and fetch him away with all the forces of his Kingdom. Schach-Ta∣mas, who was then engag'd in an open War against the Turks, not thinking it prudence to dis∣oblige so powerful an Enemy,* 1.181 caus'd Humajun to be hidden, and that he might not make a false Oath, when he was to give an answer to the Embassy of Tzelaledin, he put him into a Cage, and caus'd that to be hung in a Tree, while he was to give Audience to the Ambassador, to whom he protested, that, Humajun nist der chakimen; Humajun is not upon my Lands, and dismiss'd the Ambassador with that answer. But having, afterwards, made a Peace with the Turk, he sent Humajun with a powerful Army, commanded by Mehediculi Sulthan, against Tzelaledin, who was so startled to find himself set upon by so strong an Enemy, that he was forc'd to run away. Humajun desirous to requite the services of Mehediculi, bestow'd on him Lordships and great wealth in the Province of Kulkende, where he settled himself, with the consent of Schach-Tamas, and where his Posterity still live in much credit and authority.

The Ambassadors sent some of the retinue to visit the Prince Polagi, who receiv'd them, sit∣ting on a cushion of Velvet, near a Fountain, about the border of whose Basin there was cast pieces of Tapistry,* 1.182 the ground-work Gold and Silver, and he had about him a great number of Servants and Domesticks. He took this for so great a civility and kindness from the Ambassa∣dors, that he thought it not enough to express how sensible he was thereof in words, but would needs treat those that had been sent to him with a Collation of Wine and Fruits, and told them, that being not in a condition to entertain them, as he wish'd, out of his own Estate, he was forc'd to borrow of the Kings favours to make them that treatment. The Ambassadors intended to have given him a personal visit, but the Persians would by no means permit it, alleging it was against the custom of the Country; where Ambassadors are not permitted to make any Visits before they have had audience of the King.

Iuly 2.* 1.183 the Daruga invited the Ambassadors to a Divertisement,* 1.184 which he had appointed to be made on purpose for them. It was to be seen in the great Maidan, or Market-place, where he had caused Tents to be pitch'd, to keep off the heat of the Sun, and some part of it to be sprinkled with water, to avoid the inconvenience of the dust. Having dispos'd the people into a ring all about the place, and seated the Ambassadors on high seats, there came in, first, certain persons who were excellent at Vaulting and shewing feats of Activity. After them came in three pair of Wrastlers, most naked, having nothing cover'd about them, but what nature would have to be so. Only two among them had Leathern drawers on, done over with Oyl, who dis∣cover'd a miraculous activity and strength of Body. After these had shewn all could be expect∣ed from persons of their quality, there were brought in two Rams, which run very furiously one at the other; as also two Birds, somewhat bigger than Parrots, which fought with great animosity. After these, there came in, with the noise of Timbrels, eight Wolves of extraor∣ginary bigness, fasten'd to long Ropes, which they let out five or six times one after another among the people, but drew them back ere they did any hurt. And at last came in a man cover'd with a thick Mattress, who went boldly to one of the Wolves, took him up by the Body, and carried him away.

The Prince Polagi would have given us the Divertisement of his Elephant, which he sent for to be brought thither; but he being then at Grass, it was so long ere they could bring him, that the Ambassadors, who were already weary of a Divertisement, which had lasted but too long, and found themselves prejudic'd by the heat, went home to their Quarters. Some dayes afterwards,* 1.185 we had a sight of that Elephant, at the Prince's Lodgings, and we were not a little astonish'd at his monstrous bulk, which exceeded the height of any two men, as being indeed without comparison much bigger than any of those we afterwards saw at Ispahan, where there was a great number of them. His leggs were bigger than any man about the waste, and his ears came down along his head, half an ell in length, or better. He could do many tricks, and was govern'd by a little Boy, who by touching him in the fore-head with a little pole-axe, ve∣ry sharp at the point, guided him, and made him lye down and rise up as he pleas'd. Whence may be corrected the Errour of the antients,* 1.186 who were of opinion, that the Elephant could not lye down, as 〈…〉〈…〉 joynts in his Legs, and that that natural defect was the occasion of his taking, when coming to rest himself against Trees half sawn asunder, his weight forc'd them down, and that falling with them, he was not able to rise again. Those, who have written of the affairs of the Indies, have given an accompt of the manner how they are taken, and there∣fore we shall forbear troubling the Reader with it here.

The City of Caswin hath, towards the South-South-west, the Mountain of Elwend, which is a branch of Mount Taurus,* 1.187 and the most considerable Mountain of any in Persia, for its vast and noble quarries, out of which white Marble is gotten, whereof there is such abundance, that there is enough to supply the whole Kingdome. The Persians relate a pleasant story of a thing, which, were it true, would be very remarkable; but admitting it is not, we shall nevertheless insert it here, as we have it from them, upon occasion of this Mountain.

They say then,* 1.188 that, heretofore, a certain King of Persia named Suhak Maran, who was much pleas'd in taking journeys up and down, would needs once find out some means to have made in the open fields, some Iauchas, which is a kind of baked paste, used by the Persians in∣stead of Napkins. The Devil, desirous to make his advantage of this irregular desire of the Kings, presented himself to him in the shape of a man, made him an Oven, which a Camel might easily carry, and desir'd of him no other reward, than that he might kiss the King's shoulder. There was no difficulty made to grant him a thing of so little consequence; but the Devil, instead of kissing the King's shoulder, apply'd his teeth thereto, takes away a piece of it, and immediately vanishes. Out of the wound, there came two Serpents, which were per∣petually biting at the head and ears of that miserable Prince, to get out his brains; and though they were often cut off, yet there immediately starrted up others in their room. The Devil, who had done all the mischief, having disguis'd himself like a Hakim, or Physician, went and made proffer of his service at the Court, and prescrib'd a remedy, which was as bad, if not worse, than the evil it self. He said, that since those Serpents were so desirous to feed on the brains of

a man, and that, as it should seem, it was their only sustenance, the best course were, every day, to kill two men, and to feed them with their brains. One of the chiefest Grandees about the Court, moved with compassion, to see daily so much innocent Blood spilt, and considering, that by the means of so many murthers, the number of the King's Subjects would be infinitely diminish'd, ordered that there should be two men brought to the Stake, as they were wont be∣fore, but that only one should be kill'd, and that with the mans brains, those of a Sheep, then also new kill'd, should be mixt, and that that should be the allowance of the Serpents. Which project took so successfully, that the said Lord perceiving, that the Serpents were not sensible thereof, he, at last, caus'd the two men to be convey'd out of the way, and made use only of sheeps brain. Among those who had most contributed to the nourishment of these Beasts, a Black-Smith, named Churdek, was one, by which means almost all his Children had been upon that accompt destroy'd; so that, of seventy six Sons, that he had had, only two were left. Growing desperate upon so great a loss, he represented to the other Inhabitants of the City, that it was impossible for them to endure that Tyranny long; that there was no likelyhood nature should have brought them all into the world, to be sacrifiz'd to the appetite of one par∣ticular man; that it were better to rid themselves of the Tyrant, and in regard the State could not be without a Governour, that it was his advice, they should bring in Kechosrow ben Fridun, who had been put out by Suhak, and was then Living, in the Deserts of the Mountain of El∣wend. This Counsell was approv'd by the people, who desirous to have it put in Execution by the person who had given it, entrusted the Black-Smith with the management of that great en∣terprize, who, having fasten'd his Leathern apron to an Iron hook, led on the rest of the Male∣contents, and seiz'd the Person of Suhak. They went afterwards to the Mountain of Elwend, where they found Kechosrow among the wild Beasts, and restor'd him to his Throne. The first request that Kechosrow made to the people was, that Suhak might not be put to death; which was granted, but they carried him to the Mountain of Demawend, which reaches from that of Elwend, towards Teheran, where they made him go into a Cave, and hung him up by the feet. They say, he is there Living to this day, and that the place of his punishment is known by a sulphureous stink that comes out of it. Whereto they add, that when a stone is cast into the Cave, there comes out a voice▪ which sayes Tzira miseni mera? that is, Why dost thou fling stones at me? They say also, that Kechosrow so regulated his expences, during the whole time of his Reign, that he gather'd vast Treasures together, and that he put it up in the Mountain Bakru in the Province of Kilan, hiding it so safely, by the means of a Thelesmat or Talisman, that, till there happen a Conjuncture of the same Stars, it will never be discover'd. They say the place is known, but that when any come near it, there arise certain winds, which not only blow out the lights, but also overturn the men who bring them.

But the truth of all this story, is, that there are many Sulphureous Mines in those Moun∣tains, and that the winds, which reign there, are very natural, and ordinary, as well there as in several other Provinces of Persia; as we had observ'd before at Ardebil. Nor is it unlikely that there may be a mystical sense of this relation, and that the Persians, who are much addict∣ed to teach their Morality under Fables, would, by this fabulous History; ••demn those Prin∣ces, who, to satisfie their irregular passions, are apt to hear flatterers, who being ever guilty of wicked intentions, never give any good advice, and, to prevent the inconveniences arising thereby, apply remedies that are much more dangerous than the evil it self, and such as not only are destructive to the people, but also putting them into despair, animate them into rebel∣lion against their Princes, who are, by that means, brought to great misfortunes.

Iuly 13. we left Caswin;* 1.189 the sick persons and the Baggage were sent away in the evening, the Ambassadors follow'd the same night. The next day, the 14. having travell'd through a Plain of three Leagues, we came to the Village of Membre, whereof all the Houses were co∣ver'd like Vaults, so that looking on it at a distance, the whole Village seem'd to consist of so many Ovens. The Ambassador Crusius, the principal person of the Embassy, began, at this place, to complain of some indisposition: insomuch that, not being able any longer to ride on Horse-back, he was for some dayes following carried in a Litter. Our Minister was grown so weak, that, not able to endure the jolting of the Horse, he alighted ever and anon, and lay up∣on the ground, thinking by that means to get some ease. Monsieur Mandelslo was the only per∣son, who had no touch of any sickness all along our Travels; whence it came, that he had the more convenience of observing all the particulars thereof; which he hath done with so much exactness, that his Notes might make a considerable Volume.

We travell'd that night seven Leagues, and were got the next day, being the 15. very betimes in the morning, to a fair Village, named Araseng. We found there, in a Garden which was seated on the right side of a Torrent, good store of Pomegranates and Almonds, which were a great refreshment to us. In the evening, we prosecuted our travels, and got six Leagues further, over a very smooth Mountain, and Lodg'd the 16. in the morning, at a Caravanscra, named Choskeru. It was all built of Free-stone, and had several Vaults and Chambers, dispos'd all about a spacious Court, in the midst whereof there was a Well, compass'd by an Iron-rail. Upon

the Walls of several Rooms, were to be seen the names and devises of several persons of most Nations, who, it seems, had been desirous to leave there behind them some marks of their pas∣sage that way. We departed thence about four in the afternoon, and travell'd, that night, nine leagues.

The 17, we came betimes in the morning, in sight of Saba, but in regard the Sun was not yet up, we made a halt at some distance from the City, to give them time to come out and receive us.

The Persians put this City at 85 degrees Longitude,* 1.190 and 35 Latitude; but I found it at 34 degrees, 56 minutes. It is seated in a spacious Plain, within sight of the Mountain of Elwende, which may be discover'd thence, by reason of its height, which reaches in a manner to the Clouds. The ruins of the City of Rhei are under the same parallel with that of Saba, from which it is a good days journey distant, towards the East. The ground thereabouts is of a red∣dish colour, and brings forth neither grass nor fruit.

The cause of that barrenness they attribute to the Malediction, which was pronounc'd against it, upon the account of Omar Saad, who was one of the principal Military Commanders, in the time of Hossein. This Omar, who had, at first, profess'd friendship to Hossein, prov'd the only person who would serve Iesid Peser against him; upon this score, that Hossein, being of the blood of Mahomet, and having acquir'd a great reputation of Sanctity, not one Cap∣tain of Medina would take up Arms against him, but only this Omar, who engag'd in a war against him, upon promise, that there should be bestow'd on him the City of Rhei, with the Territories belonging thereto, which, long before, he had been very desirous of. But the death of Hossein, who was kill'd in that VVar, brought upon the Countrey, the Curse, which, according to their saying, is still visible there, in the colour and barrenness of the ground.

The City of Saba is of no great bigness,* 1.191 though it be numbred among those, which make a fair shew on the out-side, by reason of its Towers, and other publick structures. The Walls of it are but of earth, and its houses in a manner all destroy'd: but it hath, in requital, very fair Gardens, and rare and excellent Fruits, especially Pomegranates, and Almonds. Near the City, at the foot of the Mountain, there grows abundance of Cotton and Rice, which are the greatest Commodities they have to Trade in. We stay'd there only that one day, and depar∣ted thence in the evening, travelling the night following six Leagues or better, so that, the 18. by Sun-rising, we were got to a Caravansera, called Schach Ferabath. The heat was so excessive that day, that though we were all in our Drawers, yet could we not possibly avoid the incon∣veniences thereof.

We ordered our Tents to be pitch'd abroad,* 1.192 so to have the advantage of the coolness, and the wind, which came from the adjoyning Mountain; but, about noon, the Sun so heated the Wind it self, that the hot blasts which come out of an Oven could not be hotter; insomuch that we were forc'd to retire into the Caravansera, where the heat was somewhat more mode∣rate. Nay, the ground it self, which, in those parts, is only Sand and Heath, was so hot, that a man could not go five or six steps, without burning his feet. About this time, both the Am∣bassadors were very sick: but their indisposition giving them altternately a little ease, the weaker of the two made use of the Litter, and the other rode on Horse-back.

The 19. we travell'd five Leagues,* 1.193 and got in the morning before the City of Kom. The Daruga receiv'd us within five or six hundred paces of the City, accompany'd by fifty Gentle∣men on Horse-back, and certain Tumblers, among whom there were some, who went upon Stilts before the Ambassador Brugman, whose chance it was that day to be alone on Horse-back, and shew'd a thousand tricks of activity, all the way to the Ambassadors Lodgings. As we pass'd through the Market-place, we found a great number of Timbrels, Hawboyes and Fifes, which made a kind of Musick after their way, and their Inhabitants had water'd the streets, which being not pav'd no more than those of Caswin and several other Cities of Persia, the dust had otherwise troubled and annoy'd us very much.

The Persians place this City at 85 degrees,* 1.194 40 minutes Longitude, and at 34 degrees, 45 mi∣nuts Latitude; but after I had made a more exact observation thereof, I found on the 20. of Iuly, precisely at noon, that the Sun was 74 degrees, 8 minutes above the Horizon, and that the Declination, taken upon the same Meridian, was 18 degrees, 35 minutes; so that the ele∣vation of the Pole, could be but 34 degrees 17 minutes.

The City of Kom is very antient.* 1.195 Prolomy calls it Guriana, and heretofore it was of a great extent, as may be seen by the ruins of its Walls, and other buildings, which are a great way without its present compass.

It lies in a Plain, on the right hand of the Mountain of Elwend, which is discover'd at a great distance by the whiteness of its Sand, and by the extraordinary height of its points. In this Mountain, there rises, from two several Springs, a little River, which making but one Cha∣nel at the entrance of the City, runs through some part of it, and is one of the chiefest conveni∣ences belonging thereto: but about three years before our Travels that way, the little River,

over-flowing by reason of the Snow, which the precedent heat of the Spring had melted, broke down and carried away above a thousand Houses.

There are in the Gardens,* 1.196 whereof there is a great number, as well within as without the City, all sorts of excellent fruits; among others, a kind of Melons, which they call Scamma∣me much about the bigness of an Orenge. There are upon the rind spots of several colours, and they have an admirable scent: but they are more lushious in taste than the other Melons, which in sweetness exceed all those I ever cat any where else.

There are also some of these Melons at Ardebil,* 1.197 where, by reason of their scent, they com∣monly carry them in their hands; but they told us, that they were brought from the Village of Alaru, where there grows abundance of them. The learned Golius, Professor of the O∣riental Languages in the University of Leyden, gives a large account of them in his Arabick Lexicon, pag. 1309. There is also in the same place a kind of Cowcumbers of extraordinary largeness, being above two foot long, and as thick as a mans Arm, which they call Chunchiar that is, crooked Cowcumbers, as having the form of a bended Arm.

These the Persians pickle with Vinegar, without any Salt, but the taste of them is not very pleasant, especially to those that are not accustomed thereto. The ground about these parts is very fit for Tillage, and produces all sorts of Grain, as also Cotton in abundance: but the principal Trading of the Inhabitants consists in earthen Pots,* 1.198 and Sword-blades. Those blades which are made in this City are accounted the best in the whole Country, and are sold some∣times at twenty Crowns a piece. The Steel, of which they are made, comes from the City of Niris, within four days journeys of Ispahan, where there are found in the Mountain of Dema∣wend very rich Mines of Iron and Steel. The Pots also made in the City of Kom, are very much esteem'd, especially the S••eans, or great Pitchars; as well by reason of the excellency of the workmanship, as for this reason, that it is conceiv'd, they will keep water fresh and sweet, even in the greatest heats of Summer.

The Inhabitants of this City are somewhat light-finger'd, and apt to find any thing lies in their way.* 1.199 We had hardly alighted, but our Pistols were taken away, and what was not lock'd up immediately vanish'd. In this City some of our people began to be troubled with bloody fluxes, occasion'd by their excessive eating of Melons and other sorts of fruits, and drink∣ing water after fruit, and in the greatest heats.

Iuly 21. we left Kom, an hour after Sun-set,* 1.200 and travell'd that night five Leagues. The next, the 22. We stay'd in a great Village, called Kasinabath, where all the Houses of one whole street were built so as that they made altogether but one continued Vaul., or kind of Cloister.

The 23. we got seven Leagues, to the Village of Sensen, where we found abundance of Pro∣visions and fruits, which the Mehemander had appointed to be brought ••nither from Karschan, a place five Leagues distant thence. In this Village died one of our Interpreters for the Persian Language, whose name was Gregory. He was by birth a Muscovite, but had been Circum∣cised; upon which score, we left the body to those of his own Religion, to be buried after their manner.

The 23. in the evening we departed thence, and the night following, we lost a Muscovian servant, who dy'd of the bloody Flux by the way. We kept the Body to have it buried at Katschan,* 1.201 with that of another Muscovian Servant, who died two hours after the former. We got thither the 24. but so betimes in the morning, that we were forc'd to stay above two hours, before the Daruga could come to meet us, in order to our reception. He was accompa∣ny'd by fifty Gentlemen on Hors•• back, and had appointed to be led several excellent Horses co∣ver'd with Lynxes skins; nor was the ordinary Musick of the Countrey wanting. At the en∣trance of the City, he shew'd us two Indian Oxen, very black, and of great height and bulk, which had Bells about their necks, and Plumes of Feathers in their heads, and at their Crup∣pers.* 1.202 This Daruga had some time been a Foot-man to Schach-Sefi, when being very young, they were forc'd to hide him from his Grand-father Schach-Abbas; and Schach-Sefi having no money to live upon, sold the Foot-man for fifteen Tumains, which amount to seventy five French Pistols. But coming afterwards to the Crown, he caus'd him immediately to be redeem'd, and, with the quality of Sulthan, bestow'd on him the Government of Katschan.

The Persians put this City of Katschan at 84 degrees longitude, and at thirty four distant from the Line.* 1.203 After an exact Observation of three days, I found that it is distant from it thirty three degrees and 51 minutes, that is, nine minutes less. The City is of a great length, reaching from East to West, above half a German League. Its Walls and bastions are of a kind of Potters day, and it lies in a great Plain, the ground of which is good enough for Tillage, and there may be discover'd from it, on the right hand Mount Taurus, which the 'Porsians call Elwend. As you come to the City, you pass through a place appointed for tilting and run∣ning at the Ring, which hath on both sides several Pillars, and in the midst, a high Pole for shooting at the wooden Parrat. On the left hand of that place or Carriere, you leave the

King's Garden, wherein there is one Summer-house, standing in the midst of it, and another near it upon the High-way. We were told that the former hath a thousand Doors belonging to it,* 1.204 comprehending in that number the Windows, through which they pass into the Galleries and Balconies. It is to be observ'd withall, that there is no Door but hath its Counter-door, in regard the Wall being above two foot thick, there is a Door on each side of it: so that the number is not so great, as it seems to be at first. In this House, the King is Lodg'd, when he comes to Katschan.

The City, is no doubt, one of the most populous and most eminent for Trading of any in Persia, and the best Built of any we were yet come to, whether in regard of its private Houses, or its Palaces and Caravansera's: but the Basar and Maidan, and the other publick structures, which have all their Store-houses, Galleries, and Rooms for the Merchants, as well such as live within the Kingdom, as Foreiners, are the noblest I met with in all my Travells into those parts. There is, in this City, at all times, a great number of forein Merchants, and above all, Indians, who are assigned there a particular place for their Habitation and Traffick; as are also all the other Merchants. Tradesmen, especially such as make Silk-stuffs, and Weavers of Gold and Silver Brocadoes, work in open places, where all the World may see them.

The Valleys are very fruitfull in Wheat, Wine and Fruits, which grow in such abundance there, that I find no difficulty to acknowledge, what Cartwright sayes of these parts, to wit, that the poorest, and most indigent of the Inhabitants, have not only what is requisite for their subsistence, but also somewhat of delicacy, and that what they most stand in need of is fresh water. For there is not any to be had without digging very deep into the Earth, and what there was so got we thought very distastfull to the Palat, and so corrupt, that had there not been an extraordinary necessity, we should have been much troubled to swallow it. I must with∣all confess, that I could not observe that excellent order and commendable policy, which Cart∣wright sayes he had seen there in the Institution of Youth, nor that they are more carefull there than in other places, to accustom it timely to pains-taking, so to avoid idleness, and the incon∣veniences consequent thereto. True it is, that the great number of Children, which are ordi∣narily to be found there in Families, which by reason of Polygamy are very numerous, obliges the Parents to be the more carefull for their subsistence; but the Persians, for the most part are so little inclin'd to pains-taking, that, commonly, you shall either see them walking in the Maidan, or discoursing in the Shops, while they leave most of their work to be done by their slaves. Which happens hence, that being themselves very temperate, and content with little, and on the other side, Provisions being very cheap, they conceive they ought not to take much pains for what is superfluous, and those things whereof there is no great necessity. So that there are even in these parts idle Persons, and Beggers, as well as in other places.

What the same Cartwright sayes concerning the Scorpions,* 1.205 and other venemous Creatures, is very true. For of these, there are, about Katschan, more than at any other place of Persia, and such as are so dangerous, that they have occasion'd that Malediction, Akrab-Kaschan be destet senet: may the Scorpion of Kaschan pinch thee by the hand. We found some of them in our Lodging, as black as cole, about the length and compass of a man's finger, and we were told, that these were the most dangerous of any sort of them.

They are somewhat like our Crabs or Crevisses, save that their Bodies are shorter, they go faster, and they have their tails alwayes sticking up. Whence it comes that the Inhabitants ne∣ver lay their Mattresses, or Beds, upon the ground, as they do in other places; but they set them upon a kind of Trevets, or Frames, which they call Tzarpay. They affirm also, that these Beasts have a certain respect for strangers, and that to prevent their stinging, they are on∣ly to pronounce these words, Menkaribem, I am a stranger. But for my part, I am of opi∣nion, that strangers, who stand more in fear of them than the Inhabitants, are only the more oblig'd to themselves for the care they have of their own safety; though I never could hear, that those who are stung by them dye of it. For they have a present and easie remedy against this kind of poison,* 1.206 by applying a piece of Copper to the place affected; for which Cure they ordinarily make use of that Money, which they call Pul, and thence it comes, that they carry some of it alwayes about them; and having left that piece, for the space of 24. hours upon the part stung, they take it off, and put on the Wound a Plaister made of Honey and Vi∣neger.

It was my misfortune to be the only man of all our retinue that had occasion to make triall how venemous this Creature is.* 1.207 For lying down upon my Bed at Scamachie, in our return from Ispahan, a Scorpion stung me in the throat, where it made immediately a swelling about the length of my finger, which was attended with insupportable pain. As good fortune would have it, our Physician, who lay in the same Chamber, immediately apply'd thereto the Oyl of Scorpion, gave me some Treacle, and put me into a sweat: which deliver'd me from the great∣est of my pains at the end of three hours, but I had still some pain for the two dayes following, but by intervals, and it was as if I had been prick'd with a Needle: nay indeed for many years

afterwards I have been troubled with the same pains at certain times, especially in Autumn, much about the Sun's entrance into Scorpio.

There is also in these parts another sort of insect of a making much like a Spider,* 1.208 about two inches in compass, and mark'd with several spots. This insect is commonly found lodg'd in sto∣ny places, under a kind of Herb, which the Persians call Tremne, and the Turks, Iauchschan, which is like Worm-wood, or Absynthium, but the leaves are much larger, and the smell much stronger. The Persians call this insect Enkurek; and it is that animal which, in Latin, is called Stellio, and kind of insect, which the Italians and Spaniards call Tarantola. This Creature, instead of stinging or biting,* 1.209 lets fall its venom like a drop of water, which immediately causes insufferable pain in the part where it fastens, and suddenly making its way to the Stomack, sends up Vapour into the Head, and these put all the Members of the sick party into such a profound sleep, that it is impossible to awake him, save by this only remedy, which is, to crush one of these Creatures upon the wound;* 1.210 out of which all the venom is by that means drawn out.

But if there cannot any of the same Creature be found; there is another remedy may be used. The sick person is laid upon his back, that he may swallow down as much Milk as may be. Then he is put upon a thing made like a bier, which, by cords fasten'd to the four corners, is hung up to a beam, and having turn'd the bier about, till the cords are all twisted, they let it go of a sudden, that the cords coming to untwist by a violent Motion, may make his head turn, and force out of his stomack all the Milk he had swallow'd. It comes from him all Greenish, as is also the cruds which come forth at his yard, but with great violence and extreme pain. This remedy does in some measure Cure the sick person; yet so as that it hinders not, but that, at certain times, especially at the same season of the year, he must expect to feel much pain. This Creature is to be found only in the Country, so that those who live in Cities fear it not, there being none there,* 1.211 unless they are, through negligence, brought in the stubble, wherewith they cover their Houses. But what's most to be admir'd in this animal, is, that the Sheep seek after it, and feed on it.

The Inhabitants of Katchan relate, that Omar ben Alchitabi, the third Successor of Ma∣homet,* 1.212 being very desirous, one day, to go and see his Mill at Medina, the Miller, whose name was Schutza Adin, intreated him to bless his Labour, and his Mill, by putting both his hands under one of the Mill-stones which was rais'd up; which Omar having done, the Miller let it fall and set the Mill a going, by which means having crush'd his hands to pieces, he after∣wards kill'd him. Whereupon going to Aly, who by that Death was to succeed in the Em∣pire, he desir'd a reward for the Murther he had committed. Aly gave him a Letter directed to the Casi of Kaschan, ordering the Casi to give him his Daughter in Marriage. The Miller, though well satisfy'd with the recompence, yet thought it too much to take so great a Journey a-foot; so that Aly, to make a further acknowledgement of the service he had done him, lent him his Horse Duldul, which carried him in one night from Medina to Kaschan, which pla∣ces are above two hundred Leagues distant, and immediately vansh'd. The Miller Married the Casi's Daughter, but died soon after, and was buried without the City, at a place where now there are several banks of Sand, which the story sayes, were brought thither by the Wind, since the Millar's Death; lest the Friends and Kinred of Omar should take him up to be burnt.* 1.213 Molla Hassan Kaschi, who hath left this story in Writing, hath made a Proverb of it, which, with several other spiritual adages, he hath inserted into the Kullusthan, where he sayes, Men besamen, ohn schahemsia, Kickscheb duldulesch es Medine Ascabani bekaschan aured: that is, I serve the King of Kings, whose (Horse) Duldul, in one night, carried the Miller from Medina io Kaschan.* 1.214 Tzurzei Elmakin, or George Elmacini, another Arabian Historian sayes, lib. 1. ch. 3. of his History, that Omar was kill'd, as he was saying his Pray∣ers, by Abululu, the servant of Mukir, who hated him for his Tyranny.

The heats were indeed excessive at Kaschan;* 1.215 however, that the sick persons might not be put•• too hard to it, we continued there for some dayes, and departed not thence till the 26. of Iuly▪ as soon as the Moon was up, which was then at the full. That Night we travell'd six Leagues and came the next morning to Caravansera, called Chotza Kassim: but in regard it was very narrow, and withall very nasty, we lodg'd our selves in a Garden not far from it, in the shade of abundance of Cypress Trees and Pomegranate-Trees, upon the side of a pleasant Rivulet, which, making a gentle murmuring noise, contributed much to the repose, which, after the precedent night's Travel, was but necessary to us. In the Evening, we continu'd our Journey, and travell'd that night six Leagues or better, through Deserts and Barren grounds, and came, the 28. about four in the morning, to a little City, called by the Inhabitants of the Country Natens,* 1.216 and by Contarini, in his Travels, Nethas. We took up our lodging in a Caravansera, within the City, which is handsome enough, furnish'd with several Springs of fresh water, and well stor'd with all sorts of Fruits. As you come into the City, you leave on the right hand two very high and picked Mountains, one whereof hath on the top of it a great Tower, built by Schach Abas, in memory of the advantage, which one of his Falcons had in that place

over an Eagle, which he set upon, overcame, and kill'd, after a very sharp engagement. All of our Retinue being either sick or overcome with weariness, only Monsieur Mandelslo had the curiosity to get up the said Mountain with his two servants, and to take a view of that structure. He found it built of Brick, and that towards the foundation it was in an Octogonal form, being about eight paces Diameter; but that as it went higher and higher, it by degrees lost that form and bigness, and that above, near the top, it had so many windows, that the light came in of all sides. The greatest Miracle of all is, how they could carry so many materials up to so high a place, to get to which, that Gentleman had spent above three hours, and at least as much to get down again, with great pains and hazard.

The 29. we got four Leagues further,* 1.217 passing over a great Mountain, and lodg'd in a Cara∣vansera, called Dombi, whither some of the Inhabitants of Ispahan came to visit us, as they said, from the Chancellor. There came thither also certain Dutch Merchants, cloath'd in Persian ha∣bits; but they made no discovery of themselves.

The night between the last of Iuly and the first of August,* 1.218 we travell'd four leagues further, and came the next day to a Village called Kuk. We were lodg'd in the house of the Kaucha, or Judge of the place, where we continu'd all that day, and the night fol∣lowing.

August 2. we departed thence two hours before day, the Moon shining bright, and got but two leagues further, to one of the Kings houses, where we took up our quarters in a very fair Garden, which was our last nights Lodging in our passage to the City of Ispahan. For, very betimes the next morning being the third of August, horses were sent us, to make our entrance into the Metropolis of the Kingdom. Within a quarter of a League of the City, we found one of the principal Officers of the Court, named Isachan-beg, in the head of 200 horse, and some paces thence, two great Armenian Lords, named Sefaras-beg, and Elias-beg, who conducted the Ambassadors to their Lodgings The dust, which the horse, and the people who came to meet us, had rais'd, was so thick, that we were got to the Gates, before we ima∣gin'd we could have seen the City. Not only the streets and windows were full of people, who out of curiosity were come to see our entrance into the City, but also the tops of the houses were covered with them.

We were conducted through several streets,* 1.219 through the Maidan, and before the Kings Pa∣lace, to that part of the Suburbs which is called Tzulifa, where we were lodg'd in the Quar∣ter of the chiefest of the Armenian Merchants, who are Christians, and have their habitations there. We had hardly alighted, ere there were brought us from the King's Kitchin the ordi∣nary Presents of Provisions, for our welcome thither. They laid upon the floor of the Am∣bassadors Room a fine silk Cloath, on which were set one and thirty Dishes of Silver, fill'd with several sorts of Conserves, dry and liquid, and raw fruits, as Melons, Citrons, Quinces, Pears, and some others, not known in Europe. Some time after, that Cloath was taken away, that another might be laid in the room of it; and upon this was set Rice of all sorts of colours, and all sorts of Meat, boyl'd and roasted, to wit, Mutton, tame Fowl, Fish, Eggs, and Pyes, in above fifty Dishes of the same metal, besides the Sallet-dishes, great Porrenge••s, and other lesser Vessels.* 1.220 Presently after Dinner, the Commissary or Factor for the Dutch Commerce, whose name was Nicholas Iacobs Overschle, who was afterwards Governour of Zeilan, for the East-India Company, came to visit the Ambassadors, who being then looking upon the unlading of the Baggage (though that should have been the employment of their Steward or some other Officer) would have wav'd the visit upon that pretence. But the Dutchman would not be put off his visit, wherein he ingenuously acknowledg'd, that he had received Orders from his Superiours to oppose our Negotiation; but that nevertheless, as to what concern'd the Ambassadors themselves, he should do them all the civilities they could expect from him. He seem'd desirous to drink, and we had the Complyance to give him his load ere he went away.

The joy we conceiv'd at our having,* 1.221 at last, arriv'd to a place, where we hoped to put a period to our Negotiation, was soon disturbed by a most unhappy accident, and the Divertise∣ments intended us, were within a few days after our coming thither, changed into a bloudy Contestation with the Indians, occasion'd by the insolence of one of the Domesticks belonging to the Mogul's Ambassador, who was Lodg'd not far from our Quarters, with a Retinue of three hundred persons, most of them Vsbeques. One of their Domesticks standing by, and looking on our people unloading and putting up the Baggage, our Mehemanders servant, na∣med Willichan, said to him jesting, that it would speak more good nature in him, to come and help them, than to stand as he did with his Arms a-cross; whereto the other making answer somewhat too snappishly, as he conceiv'd, the Persian struck him over the pate with his Cane. The Indian incens'd at the affront, ran to some of his Camerades, who were lying hard by under the shade of a Tree, and made his complaints to them of the injury he had re∣ceiv'd; upon which they all got up, and fell upon Wellichan, whom they wounded in the head with stones.

Our Domesticks perceiving this tumult, brought our Steward notice of it, who taking along with him five or six Soldiers, and some others of our servants, charg'd the Indians (whole number was augmented to hear thirty) so home, that they mortally wounded one, and pur∣su'd the rest to their Quarters: but what most troubled the Indians, was, that, in this engage∣ment, they had lost a Sword and a Poniard, whereto a little Purse was faste'd, in which there was some small money, which our People brought home as a sign of their Victory. The Industhans, at that time, thought it enough to threaten how highly they should resent that af∣front, and that they should take occasion to revenge their Camerade. Nor indeed were they unmindful of their threats; for the Ambassadors having resolv'd to change their Lodgings, by reason of the great inconvenience it was to them, that their Domesticks were scatter'd up and down the Suburbs, and quarter'd at a great distance from them, and having appointed the se∣venth of August for their removal, the Indians took their advantage of that occasion, to be satisfy'd for the affront they imagin'd they had received.

We had sent before a Lacquey belonging to our Steward, and some of our Seamen with part of the Baggage, to be, by them, conducted to the Lodgings we had taken up, which were within the City, a quarter of a League or better distant from the former. Certain Indians who were lying under Tents to keep their Master's Horses, which were then feeding between the City and Suburbs, knew him, as having seen him in the former engagement, set upon him, and, though he gallantly defended himself with his Sword and Pistol, at last kill'd him with their Arrows; which done, they cut off his head, toss'd it up and down in the Air, and bound his body to his Horse-tayl; which dragg'd it to a certain place, where the Dogs devour'd it. The news brought us of this Murther was enough to assure us, that the Industhans would not think that revenge enough, but that they were resolv'd to set upon us with all their forces. Whereupon the Ambassadors sent out Orders, that all of their Retinue should stand upon their Guard, and come with all expedition to their Lodgings. But, before this Order could be put in Execution, the Indians had already possess'd themselves of all the Avenues of their Quarters, which they had in a manner block'd up: in so much that none could get in, without running the hazard of being kill'd. However, reflecting on the imminent and inevitable danger it was to lie scatter'd up and down in several quarters, most of the Domesticks thought it their safest course, though with some danger, to make their way to the House where the Ambassadors were, which was in the corner of a narrow street. Most of them escap'd the fury of the Indi∣ans, but some were mortally wounded, and I my self came very near it, for I was no sooner got within the door, but an Arrow came grazing through my hair, and was shot into one of the Posts. All their Arrows were made of Canes, having a sharp and cutting piece of Iron at the end, and so light, that the least strength sent them away with incredible swiftness, and they pierc'd where they lighted, as dangerously as a Bullet from a Fire-lock. Which is the more to be observ'd, in opposition to that passage of Quintus Curtius, where he sayes in the eighth book of his History, Binum cubitorum sunt sagittae (Indis) quas emittunt majore nisu quam effectu; quippe telum, cujus in levitate vis omnis est, inhabili pondere oneratur. But be∣sides these Arms, they had also Muskets, and Arquebuses, according to the Persian way, which are of a very small bore, wherewith they shot very exactly.

Our Lieutenants did all that could be expected from persons of courage and conduct, setting their Soldiers in Order at the Door of the Ambassadors Lodgings, and causing several Volleys of Musket-shot to be discharg'd at the Indians. But the Indians made their advantage of a Wall, which serv'd them for a Parapet; and they had made several holes in it, that they might shoot with less danger to themselves, and more annoyance to us. On the contrary, our people, in∣stead of following their example (whom some would have accounted Barbarians, but who will not be found such) and making their advantage of the Chests, and the Baggage, which were in the street, had no other Parapet, than their own Breasts, which were expos'd to all their Volleys. One of our Canoneers, as he was going to level a small Piece at the Indians, was kill'd.

Sergeant Morrhoy, a Scotchman, seeing the Canoneer fall at his feet, took up his Musket, and set himself in a posture of revenging his Camerades death. He was so fortunate as to kill five or six Indians, but at last an Arrow takes him just in the breast, which, not at all troubled at, he pluck'd it out, and, having charg'd his Musket once more, kill'd another man, and then fell down dead upon the place,

The Armenians living thereabouts, who were Spectators of this engagement, could help us no otherwise than with their tears, whereby they express'd the a••fliction it was to them to see the death of so many poor Christians. At last, the number of the Indians increasing still, the Muskets play'd so fast, that the Ambassadors were forc'd to command their people to come into the house, and, remaining in the Court, to keep the Indians from getting into the house. But they making their advantage of our retreat, fell upon the Baggage, and ransack'd it, and not content with that, they forc'd their way into the next house to us, and because the Master of it would have kept them from coming in, they cut off one of his hands, and afterwards kill'd

him. By which means getting up to the top of it, they could look into our Court, and so forc'd our people to abandon it. Some of ours got up to the top of our house, and making their ad∣vantage of the Parapet, no Indian appear'd but they shot at him, and no shot but did execution. M. Mandcislo,* 1.222 who had an excellent faculty in the handling of Fire-arms, kill'd the Leader of the Indian party with a Pistol-shot. His death made them all fury, insomuch that they got out of the place where they were, with a design to force our Gates: which resolution of theirs ob∣lig'd the Ambassadors to think of some retreat, and to break down the Walls of the adjoyning houses, where the Armenians, who lived in them, joyfully receiv'd us, and brought us Lad∣ders to get down into a fair Garden. We all got down into it, but the pleasaniness of the place, took us no more than a delicious Dish of Meat would do a Malefactor, that were going to his execution, in regard we expected death there every moment.

While we were thus out of all hope of escape,* 1.223 one of the 〈◊〉〈◊〉: shals of the Court came to us from the King, to bring us news of a Peace. He was come some times before, with the same orders, but ••he heat 〈…〉〈…〉 engagement had hindred us, as well as the Indians from hearing what message he brought: for, the Inhabitants of Ispah••n, perceiving the noise increased, and fearing a greater disorder, which might be of dangerous consequence among a people who had never seen any thing of that nature, the King sent thither a hundred Souldiers well arm'd, in the Head of a good number of the Inhabitants, but as soon as the Indians perceiv'd that Body coming towards them, they dispers'd themselves. We were told, that the King hearing of the Murther, which was the Prologue to all this Tragedy, and withall that the Indian Ambassa∣dor had Co••niv'd thereat, had Commanded his Head to be brought him; but that the Chan∣cellor had moderated that sally of his Passion, by representing to him, that both the Ambassa∣dors were Strangers, and his Guests, and that it belong'd to their Masters, and not to him, to punish them.

This peace brought us also the liberty to go into the Streets, where we found our Chests broke open, and all the Baggage plunder'd, unless it were certain Sawcidges, Neats-Tongues, and Gammons of Bacon, which the Indians, as being Mahumetanes, had thrown by. Our loss upon this occasion amounted to above four thousand-Crowns. The King demanded a particular of it, and would have defray'd us; but that kindness of his had not its effect, for reasons but too well known to all the Retinue.

In the fore-said engagement, which lasted above four hours, we lost five men, and had ten wounded. The Indians, according to the Informations we receiv'd from the Persians, lost therein about four and twenty men,* 1.224 and had many more hurt: but the Indian Ambassador had, some few dayes after, orders sent him to be gone. This was the most unhappy accident we me•• with in all our Travells: for, after we had escap'd all the dangers, which we might well have fallen in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the way, and the injuries might have been done us by the most Cruel and Barba∣rous people, through whose Territories we pass'd, this sad accident happen'd to us in the chief City of the Kingdome, where we thought to find rest after all the hardships we had en∣dured.

As to this Indian Ambassador, he was a Myrsa, or Indian Prince, and had been sent to the Court of Persia, by Choramscha, King of the Indies, whom they call the Great Mogul, and not, as he is commonly called, Mogor. He had a very noble Retinue, and was ordinarily carried in a Litter, according to the Indian making, more fit to lye down in, than to sit, which was car∣ried by several Slaves, it being hang'd at a great Iron-barr made crooked in the middle. The King of Persia, who knew on what occasion he was sent Ambassador to him, made him stay three whole years,* 1.225 before he gave him audience, ordering him in the mean time to be magnifi∣cently treated, insomuch that some few dayes before our arrival, the King had sent him, besides many before, a Present of three thousand Tumains, which amount to fifty thousand Crowns; the Ambassador himself, it seems, defraying the expence of his House-keeping.

The Ambassador, on the othe other side, demean'd himself suitably to this magnificence; for he spent the three first dayes after his audience in bestowing the Presents he had brought along with him.* 1.226 Those he made the first day, were in the name of the Great Mogul: those made the second, in the name of the Prince his Son; what he did, the third, was upon his own accompt. We were credibly inform'd, that the Presents made by him amounted to above a hundred thousand Crowns.* 1.227 His business was, to intreat the King of Persia, to put into his hands the Myrsa Polagi, Prince of the Blood, and Nephew to the Mogul, who had been forc'd to retire into Persia to save his Life, which he was in danger to lose, as he had done his King∣dome. The King excus'd himself, and generously made answer, that it were a breach of the Laws of Hospitality, to deliver up a Prince, who, out of an assurance of his friendship, had taken refuge in his Kingdome; that he was oblig'd in honour to treat him as a Friend, and a Guest, and to give him entertainment as long as he should think fit to stay in his Countrey.

This was all the Answer the Ambassador could get,* 1.228 in relation to the Embassy; but that he might be assur'd, they had no great kindness for himself in particular, secret orders were sent

to Hassan-Chan Governour of Herath, which is the most considerable of any place towards the Frontiers of the Indies, that he should stop, in their passage, four or five hundred Horses, which the Ambassador had bought, and sent away by small parties, that, at his coming▪ he might find them ready upon the Frontiers: for the Indian Horses are small and ill-shap'd, whence it comes, that the Indians are so desirous to have some of the Persian breed. The Ambassador storm'd, alleg'd his quality, and urg'd it as an affront done his Master in his person, and, that the King of Persia, who knew he had bought them, and had permitted him to do so, was, no doubt, willing he should take them along with him. But Hassan-Chan made answer, that he was King in his own Province, that if he did ought prejudicial to the King's service, his Life should answer for it, and that he would not suffer any Horses to go out of the Country, it being to be fear'd they might afterwards be brought to serve in the Warrs against his Majesty, to whom he was to give a strict accompt of all his actions. So that the Ambassador was forc'd to leave the Horses behind him, and to sell them at such rates as the Persians would give him for them. As for the Indians in general, they are good Natur'd, Civil, Friendly, and their Con∣versation not unpleasant, provided they be not injur'd; but so apt to resent any thing of affront, that they are never satisfy'd without their Blood, by whom they are offended, We know it otherwise than by hear-say.

The next day after this unhappy engagement, to wit, the 8. of August, we chang'd our Lodgings, and, to prevent any disorder that might happen, especially upon the accompt of the Indians, the King caus'd prohibitions to be made, that not only any of the Ambassadors Reti∣nue, but also, of the other Indians, nay even the Merchants of that Nation, whereof there are above twelve thousand in Ispahan, should, upon pain of Death, be seen in the streets, till we were gotten within the City. And that we might be the more secure, we found attending near our Lodgings, some of the Guard, who went along with us to our new Quarters, which we were permitted to fortifie at the weakest places, against any attempt might be made by the In∣dians, who might easily and with advantage have assaulted us in our Quarters, by reason it was of a vast extent, they having openly threatned to do it.

The Structure comprehended four great Courts,* 1.229 through two whereof there ran a Rivulet twenty five foot in breadth, planted on both sides with that delightfull Tree called Tzinnar, which made two very pleasant walks. The same Rivulet ran through some of the Halls and Galleries, and went under ground, under the main part of the Lodging; which was design'd for the appartment of the Ambassadors. There was in the midst of it, and below, a spacious Hall, built eight square, with a fair Fountain, and at every side of the Octagone a Door, which led into several Chambers. The first Story had the same appartments, but this over and above, that the Windows serv'd for Doors, some whereof led into Galleries and Balconies that look'd into the Garden, some towards the Hall; so that a man might, out of any Chamber, see what was done in the Hall. In the midst of the Hall, there was a Fountain, the Basin whereof was of Freestone.

During our aboad at Ispahan, we were supply'd with all things upon the King's accompt, be∣ing allow'd,* 1.230 every day, sixteen Sheep, a hundred of all sorts of tame Fowl, two hundred Eggs, and a hundred Batmans of Wine, with Fruit and spice in such abundance, that we might have made very good Cheer, had it not been for their ill management thereof, who had the disposal of them, and who squander'd away the Provisions, not only by Connivence, but also by the express order of one of the Ambassadors, I mean him of Hamborough, who sent them to them Armenians, and, many times, to common prostitutes. Whence it came, that some times our people made but one meal a day, nay some dayes, the servants and others had no cloath laid at all.

Aug. 10. the Ambassadors sent some of the Retinue to Alexis Savinouits, Ambassador from the Duke of Muscovy, to treat with him concerning their common affairs; and in regard the Persians were not well pleas'd to see us in our own Cloaths, we put our selves into the Musco∣vian fashion,* 1.231 as coming somewhat nearer their mode. About this time, dyed some of our peo∣ple, who had been Wounded, in the Engagement with the Indians, and, among others, one of our Guard, who had been hurt in the knee, with a poisoned Arrow. Our Harbinger died also the same day, but it was of a Bloody-flux, which took him after he had been sufficiently shaken by a Tertian Ague, and dispatch'd him in a few dayes. VVe buried them both in the Church∣yard of the Armenians, in that part of the Suburbs, which is called Tzulfa.

August the 16. the Ambassadors had their first audience of the King, who sent them word, that they should also have the honour to dine with him,* 1.232 and to that end, sent them forty gal∣lant Horses out of his own Stables, the Saddles and Harnesses whereof were adorn'd with great plates of Gold.

The Ambassadors made use only of two,* 1.233 and also ordered the Gentlemen and the principal Officers to ride on Horse-back, but the rest went a-foot, in the following order.

First, march'd three men or Horse-back, two whereof were in compleat arms, having

Flowers, and other Workmanship of Gold. The third was arm'd only as a Horse-man, with Back, Breast, and Pot, yet all very rich.

After him march'd forty Persons, having every one a Case of Pistols, the best that could be had in the Low Countries, with their Holsters, the laps whereof were Em∣broider'd.

Next, four men, carrying two rich Cymitars, the sheaths whereof were of yellow Amber, garnish'd with Gold, in very rich Cases.

Next, two men, with Walking staves, done about with Amber, which the Persians e∣steem above Gold, in very rich Cases.

Four men, carrying so many great Candlesticks of Amber.

Two others, carrying a Cabinet of white and yellow Amber.

Four others, carrying a Cabinet of Ebony, garnish'd with Silver, having within it, in Gol∣den Boxes, several Druggs, Essences and Magisteries, and the coverings thereof beset with fine stones, which signify'd what Magistery there was in every Box.

And whereas it is the custom of the Country,* 1.234 that Ambassadors are oblig'd to make some Presents from themselves, and upon their own accompt, the Ambassador Crusius sent in an Ar∣quebuss, the stock whereof was of Ebony, which cock'd it self by letting down the Cock; A vessel of Rock Chrystal, done about with Gold, and beset with Rubies and Turqueses; a Ca∣binet of Amber, and a small striking Clock. The Ambassador Brugman presented the King with a gilt brass Candlestick, that had thirty branches, having a striking Watch within the bo∣dy of it; a pair of gilt Pistols, in very rich Holsters; a very fair Hour-glass; a Watch in a Topaze case; a Bracelet of Diamonds and Rubies; and, a Writing, whereby were presen∣ted the two pieces of Canon, which we had left at Ardebil.

Every one had his place assign'd him,* 1.235 to the end that all things might be presented to the King with the observance of some Order; but the Persians never observe it in any Ceremony: insomuch, that they were no sooner got into the street, but they were all in disorder, and march'd with such ••onfusion, that the Ambassadors Retinue could not make the Procession they expected.

First, there should have march'd three Sergeants with Halberds, in the Head of fifteen Muske∣tiers. After them the Mashal, or Steward, alone, in the Head of the Gentlemen, who march'd three a breast. Then, three Trumpeters, with silver Trumpets, and after them march'd the Guards, four a-breast, immediately before the Ambassadors, who had on both sides eight Halberteers, and behind them the two Interpreters. The eight Pages follow'd, on horse-back, in very rich Liveries, and after them the rest of our people, marching three a-breast, and eight deep.

The Ambassadors being come in this order, attended by a great number of Kisibachs, and Persian Gentlemen on Horse-back, whom the King had sent to them, through the Maidan, to the Gates of the Palace-Royal, they were there received by Iesaul Senhobet, who is as it were the Introductor,* 1.236 or Master of the Ceremonies. He commanded those who carried the Pre∣sents to make way for the Ambassadors, whom he conducted into a Hall, where the Divanbeki, or Judges, are wont to meet, for the Administration of Justice, and intreated them to rest themselves, till he had acquainted the King with their arrival. About half an hour after, se∣veral great Lords came to give the Ambassadors notice, that the King expected them. We were brought through a spacious Court, which was of greater length than breadth, and in which there was on both sides, about six paces distance from one Wall, another lower Wall, built close to a row of Tzinnar-Trees; and all along that lower Wall, stood the Musketiers, and the other Guards, in a file on both sides.

The Guards were distinguish'd from the Musketiers, by the Coiffure they wore about their heads, which was pointed, and set out with plumes of Feathers, of several Colours. They call this kind of Courts or Walks, Cheywan, and they afford a very delightful prospect. At the end of this Court, there was a great Hall, having light coming in of all sides, which was the place design'd for our audience.* 1.237 It is called Diwan Chane, as being the place, where the King administers Justice in Person: there being a great difference between the Custom of Persia, and that of Muscovy; where the Great Duke hath a particular Hall, wherein he gives audience to Ambassadors; whereas the King of Persia does it in those places where he accidentally is, either about other business, or for his Divertisement. Near the said Hall, and under those Trees, between the two Walls, there were to be seen fifty excellent Horses, with their cover∣ing-Cloaths of Brocado, or Embroider'd with Gold and Silver, and among those some A∣rabian Horses, ready to be back'd, with their Saddles and Harness, cover'd all over with plates of Gold, and beset with abundance of precious stones. All the Horses stood in the open Air, fasten'd by one of the hinder feet to a stake struck in the ground, and they were most of them of an Isabella Colour, about the Belly and Legs. There stood hard by Pails of Vermili∣on Gilt,* 1.238 for the watering of them. Not far thence, there were two great Cisterns four foot square, for the cooling of Wine.

This Hall was rais'd three steps from the ground, and was eight fathom broad, and twelve in length. There was at the entrance into it a Partition, like an Alcove, with Curtains drawn before it, of red Cotton, which were taken up and let down with silk strings. When they were drawn up, they rested upon the Chapters of certain wooden Pillars, made Cylinder-wise, Em∣bellish'd with Branch-work, Painted, and Gilt, as were also the Walls. On the left hand, as you came in, there were some pieces of Painting, done in Europe, and representing certain Hi∣stories. The floor was cover'd all over with Tapistry, whereof the ground-work was of Gold and Silver, and in the midst of the Hall, there was a Fountain, and in the Basin of it abundance of Flowers, Citrons, Orenges, Apples, and other Fruits, which swom upon the water. A∣bout the sides of the Basin, there were a great number of Gold and Silver Flaggons, and Bot∣tles, which either had Garlands or Flowers about them, or posies in their Mouths.

The King sate upon the ground,* 1.239 having a satin Cushion under him, behind the Fountain, with his back to the VVall. He was about seven and twenty years of Age, handsome Bodied, having a gracefull Aspect, and of a clear and smooth Complexion, somewhat Hawk-Nos'd, as most of the Persians are, and he had a little black Hair upon the upper lip. There was nothing extraordinary in his Habit, save that his Cloaths were of Brocadoe, and that, at his Coiffure, there was a Plume of Heron-Feathers, fasten'd with a bracelet of Diamonds. He had also upon his Kurdi, that is, a kind of Coat without Sleeves, which the Persians wear upon their Gar∣ments, two Sable Skins hanging at the Neck: but for ought we saw afterwards, other Persian Lords wore the like. The Cymitar he had by his side glitter'd with Gold and Precious Stones; and behind him, upon the ground, there lay a Bow and Arrows.

On his right hand there stood twenty Pages, who were, most of them, as we were told, the sons of Chans, and Sulthans, Governours of Provinces, among whom there were some Eunuchs.

They were all very handsome, as to their Persons, but it seems, they had made choice of the handsomest among them, to hold the Fan, wherewith he incessantly gave the King air. These Fanns are made of a certain Sea-Creature, which they call Maherikutas, and it is like a Horse∣tail. Near the Pages stood the Meheter, or Groom of the Chamber, who hath the over∣sight of them. Before the King stood Elschick agasi baschi, or the Lord Chamberlain of the Houshold, having in his hand a Staff cover'd all over with Gold, as was also the great Button or Apple at the top of it. VVithin four paces of the King, and on his left hand, sat the Chan∣cellor whom they call Ethemad Dowlet, and about him, the Chans, and great Lords of the Privy Counsell. At the entrance of the Hall, on the left hand, sat the Ambassadors of an Ara∣bian Prince, who had been sent to desire the King's Protection against the Turk; and the Poslanick of Muscovy, Alexei Savinouits; and somewhat lower were placed the King's Musick.

The Ambassadors were receiv'd at the entrance of the Hall,* 1.240 by the Prince Tzani-Chan, Kurtzi Baschi, of whom we spoke before, and by Aliculi-bek▪ Divanbeki, who took them under the Arms, one after the other, and brought them to the King. These Conductors, as they led the Ambassadors along, laid such fast hold on their hands, that they had not the use of them them∣selves.

This Ceremony is very necessary, and must now be look'd on as a particular honour done the Ambassadors, though it be said, and that very probably, that with the same labour, they secure the Prince's Life, against the attempts there might be made against it. But I would not have any to credit what some affirm, to wit, that this Ceremony hath not been observ'd in Per∣sia but since the Reign of Schach-Abas, and that it was occasion'd by the design which some Tur∣kish Ambassadors had to kill him. For this custom is also observ'd in the Grand Seignor's Court, as well as in Persia; nay it is my opinion, that it is for the same reason, that the King does not give his Hand, but his Knee to strangers to kiss, to his own Subjects thinking it enough to pre∣sent his foot.

The Ambassadors, as they came near the King, made a low Reverence, which he civilly an∣swered with a little Inclination of the Head, and a smiling and obliging Countenance. They were immediately led away, and intreated to sit down, on low Seats, which had been plac'd near the Lords of the Councel. The same honour was done to fifteen of the Retinue, but they were forc'd to sit down a little more on the left hand, and upon the ground. The ground. The Pages, and the rest of the Retinue, were conducted into the Court, where they were seated, near thirteen VVomen-Dancers, who were very handsome VVomen, and very richly Cloath'd, and sate up∣on Tapistry, whereof the ground-work was Gold and Silver.

Some of our people were perswaded they were the ordinary Dancing-women belonging to the Court, and gave that accompt of them in the Relations they have made of their Travells; but it is certain, they were some of the handsomest Curtezans of the City, who, besides the Tribute they yearly pay the King, are oblig'd to come to Court, to divert the Prince, when ever he sends for them. VVe were told, that a man might have had his choice of them for a Tumain.

The Ambassadors having rested themselves a little, the King sent the Lord Chamberlain to them, to know the Prince's name, by whom they were sent, and the occasion of their Embassy. Which message oblig'd them to rise up, and to go near the King, with their Interpreter, to de∣liver their Credentials, which they accompany'd with a Complement, which was so much the shorter, in regard the Persians, who are no Lovers of long Speeches, would have those that approach their King to do it with respect, and to express that respect by a Discourse of few words. The Chancellor receiv'd the Credentials, and after the Ambassadors were seated again, the Wakaenuis, or Secretary of the Chamber, came and told them, that the Schach would or∣der their Credential letters to be Translated; that as soon as it were done, his Majesty would give them a second audience, for their affairs, and that in the mean time, he desir'd them to Divert themselves as much as might be. This done, the Presents were brought in, which were carried, close by the King, into an appartment design'd for the Treasury, on one side of the Hall, at the entrance of the Palace.

While the Presents were carried in, the Cloath was laid, that is, all the floor of the Hall was cover'd with one piece of Cotton Cloath, on which were set all sorts of Fruits and Con∣serves, all in great Basins of Gold,* 1.241 whereof there was so great a number, that there was hardly place left for three hundred great Flaggons of the same Metal, which were dispers'd here and there, only for Ostentation sake: so that which way soever a man look'd, there was nothing to be sent but Gold. All the Plate was plain and smooth, save only the Flaggon and Cup out of which the King himself drunk, which two pieces the Persians call Surhahi, and Piali, which were beset with Rubies and Turqueses. With these conserves, we had excellent Schiras-wine,* 1.242 and they gave us the Divertisement of a fellow that shew'd tricks of Legerdemain, who did be∣yond any thing I ever saw of that kind before. About an hour after, the Conserves were taken away, that the Meat might be brought in▪ The floor was laid with another Cloath; which was of a Gold Brocado, and there came in ten men loaden with Meat in great Vessels of Gold, made like the Milk-pails in France, which some carried upon their Heads, some upon a kind of Barrows, which were also cover'd with plates of Gold.

The Suffretzi,* 1.243 that is, the Carver, having plac'd the Meat, sate down in the midst of the Table, or floor of the Hall, took the Meat out of those Vessels, and dispos'd it into Dishes, and sent them, first to the King, then to the Ambassadors, and afterwards to the Lords, and the rest of the Company. They understand not what it is to entertain with several Courses, but set down all upon the Table at once, and think they treat their Guests very well. All the Dishes were fill'd with Rice of all sorts of Colours, and the Carver put the Meat upon the Rice, to wit, Mutton, boyl'd and roasted, tame and wild Fowl, Omelets, Pies, Spinage, Sow••-cruds, &c. insomuch, that many times, there was five or six sorts of Meat in the same Dish. This is done by design,* 1.244 and for their own convenience; in regard, that, not sitting at a Table opposite one to another, but all of a side, as the Monks do, and consequently one man being not able to reach to several Dishes, they are served several sorts of Meat in the same Dish.

But as we imitated the Monks in our manner of sitting,* 1.245 so were we as silent as they are at Meals: for there was not a word spoken all the time we were at Meat; unless it were that the King himself whisper'd twice or thrice to the Chancellor. But there was not that silence ob∣serv'd at two or three other Entertainments we had at the Court afterwards: for then, the King was pleas'd to fall into some discourse with the Ambassadors, concerning the affairs of Europe, and particularly concerning the Warrs of Germany.

We had also,* 1.246 while we were at Dinner, the Divertisement of their Musick, and the Activity of those Curtezans. The Musick consisted of Lutes, Violins, Flageolets, Hawboies, and Tim∣brels, which he who play'd upon the Timbrel, accompany'd with a wretched inharmonious Voice, which disorder'd the little Consort there was in their pretended Consort. The Dancing of the Women was more regular, and though it was not consonant to the Musick, nor the way of Dancing among the Europaeans, yet was it not undelightfull, but had its cadences and exact∣ness as well as ours.

While we were at Dinner, there lay hid, in a Door which was cover'd by the Hangings, over against the place where the Ambassadors sat, a Persian, who understood the Portuguez and Italian, to observe their Demeanour, as also what discourse they might have with their Inter∣ter, that he might give an accompt of what they said concerning the fashions and manners of that Court. The relation he gave in to the King of what the Ambassador Brugman had said of the Pictures, and the Entertainments, and the manner of Life of the Persians, prov'd to his disadvantage and Prejudice. Our Interpreter was a Portuguez, an Augustine Frier, about for∣ty years of age. His name was Father Ioseph, of the Rosary, a good natur'd man, obliging, and complaisant, and a person that understood himself very well; inasmuch, as, having liv'd four and twenty years in Persia, he was excellently well skill'd in the Language, and throughly acquainted with the humour and customs of that Nation. In his discourse with the Ambassa∣dor Crusius, he made use of the Latin Tongue, and spoke Portuguez to the Ambassador Brugman.

They sat at Dinner about an hour and a half, and then the Cloath being taken away, there was warm water brought to wash their hands. Which done, the Lord Chamberlain cry'd a∣loud, Suffre Hakine, Scahe douletine, Kasiler Kuwetine, alla dielum; that is, Make us thank∣ful for this repast, prosper the King's affairs, give his Soldiers and Servants courage; this we pray thee, O God: whereto all the rest answer their Alla, Alla. Grace being thus said, they rose up, and went out of the room one after another, without speaking a word, according to the custom of the Country. Our Mehemander came also to tell us that we might withdraw when we pleas'd; as we immediately did, making a low Reverence to the King.

After this first audience, we were permitted to receive the Visits of all other Nations, who have any Commerce at Ispahan, as the French, Spaniards, Italians, English and Dutch. They came often to see us, and contributed much to our Divertisement, during the aboad we made in that City, The English were the first that gave us a Visit. Their Factor, whose name was Francis Honywood, came to our Quarters the 18 of August, accompany'd by a considerable number of Merchants, who, to express the affection they bore us, had all put themselves into the German fashion, though otherwise they went according to the mode of their own Country. The Factor was an excellent good natur'd man, and excessively civil. He immediately made prof∣fers of his service to us, and afterwards made them good upon all occasions, and kept us com∣pany most part of that day.

The 22. The King sent the Ambassadors a Present of Fruits, as Melons, Apples, Pears, Grapes, Quinces; and others, and, along with it, thirty great Flaggos of most excellent Schiras-Wine.

The 24. the Ambassadors had their first private audience,* 1.247 concerning their Negotiation, at which was the King himself in Person, attended by the Chancellor, and a great number of the Lords of the Councel. This conference was not had in the Divan-Chane, but in another apart∣ment, into which we were brought, through a spacious Gallery, and afterwards through a fair Garden, where those of our Retinue found their Divertisement▪ while the Ambassadors, with their Interpreter, were employ'd about their affairs. The King had the patience to stay there two hours and better, and as we came out thence, Dinner was going in, whereto all the Company was invited, all being placed, and treated in the same manner as we had been before.

Aug. the 28.* 1.248 the Augustine Friers came to intreat the Ambassadors to honour them with their Presence the next day, at the Celebration of the Festival of their Patron St. Augustine. They desired the same favour of the Muscovian Pos••anick, Alexei Savinouits,, as also of an Armenian Bishop, and the English Merchants, who, though of a different Religion, and that in Europe they would have made some difficulty to be present at the Ceremonies of the Ro∣man-Catholick Church, live like Brethren and true Christians, among their common E∣nemies.

There were in the Monastery in all, but six Spanish Monks, and yet they had built a very vast Structure, with a very fair Church belonging to it, which had two Steeples, but somewhat low, a stately Cloister, several Cells, and a large Garden.

The Ambassadors went thither on Horseback, in regard that, though the Monastery were within the City, yet was it above a League from our quarters; and the Religious men, who receiv'd them at the entrance of the Monastery, conducted them straight to the Church, which was adorn'd with abundance of Pictures, and Gilt in several places. They presently began Mass, during which we had pretty good Musick, for one of their Monks had some skill upon the Organ, and our Musicians had brought thither their Lutes and Violins. After Mass, we were carried into the Garden, near a Fountain, and under the shade of a Tree, the branches whereof were so full of Leaves, and so woven one within another, that they compass'd the Fountain, and in several places reaching down to the ground, they made convenient seats. The Clock striking twelve,* 1.249 we were brought into a fair Hall, where we were feared at three seve∣ral Tables, which were plac'd all along the Walls, after the same manner as may be seen in the Monasteries of Religious men in Europe.

The Tables were cover'd with all sorts of Fruits, in dishes of Porcelane, and the Cloath was all strew'd with Flowers. Every one had his dish of Meat by himself, plenty of all things, and all very well dress'd, yet not without some respect to frugality. After Dinner, which lasted not so long as we had been at the entertainments of the Persians, or those we were invited to by some forein Merchants, we return'd into the Garden, where we pass'd away the remainder of the day, under the shade of the same Tree.

VVith the beginning of September,* 1.250 we began to be sensible of a change of the wea∣ther▪ The great heats were so much abated, that the Nights began to be tedious and troublesome,* 1.251 especially to those who had not been carefull to provide themselves good Coverlets.

About this time Seferas-beg, Governour of Armenia, accompany'd by his two Brothers, came to see the Ambassadors, with a design to make acquaintance, and contract Friendship

with them. They were all three persons of an excellent good disposition, free in their Conver∣sation and Civil, which gain'd so much upon the nature of the Ambassador Brugman, who lov'd people of that Kidney, and was himself of a free Humour, that he presented the two Elder, each of them, with a handsome Fowling-piece, and the younger with a Case of Pistols. They took those Presents so kindly, that, to express their gratitude, they resolv'd to make an En∣tertainment for the Ambassadors, for which they appointed the 18 of September, and entreat∣ed them to bring all their Retinue along with them. They sent us Horses to bring us, and some of the Armenian Merchants to accompany us.

We brought along with us two Portuguez Monks, the Prior of the Augustines, and our ordi∣nary Interpreter. Seferas-beg receiv'd the Ambassadors at the entrance of the Church, in the Suburbs called Tzulfa, where he had the service said by the Patriarch of the place, who had about him a Cope of Cloath of Silver, with flowers of Gold, beset with great Pearls, and a Mitre of the same Stuff, cover'd all over with round Pearls. The Body of the Church was a∣dorn'd with several large Pictures, the floor was cover'd with the Tapistry of the Country, and they had placed benches all along the walls for our more convenient sitting. They had also a kind of wretched Musick. Having done our Devotions, we got on horse-back again to goe to the place where the entertainment was prepared for us. Seferas-beg, having receiv'd the Am∣bassadors with much respect, and done his civilities to the chiefest of the Retinue, conducted them, through a spacious arched Gallery, into a great Garden, at the end whereof we found an open hall, according to the fashion of the Country, where we were intreated to sit down on the ground. The Cloath, which was of Gold and Silver Brocado, was cover'd with all sorts of Fruits and Conserves, and we drank of a certain prepar'd water, much like Ros Solis, but incomparably more delicate, and more precious. Having taken away the Fruits, they laid an Indian Cotton cloath, and the Meat was brought up, in silver Dishes. It was excellently well dress'd, according to the Persian way of dressing, with this difference only, that at this entertainment there was brought in Pork, and some other sorts of flesh, for which the Persians have an aversion. We had hardly eaten so much as allay'd our first hunger, ere we were forc'd to rise from the Table, to be conducted through a very noble apartment, into another hall, which look'd into the Garden. It was arched all about, and there were on the Walls certain Pictures representing the Women of most Nations in the World, dress'd according to the mode of their several Countries. The floor was cover'd with rich Tapistry, on which were laid Cushions of flower'd Satin, the ground-work thereof Gold and Silver. In the midst of the hall, there was a Fountain, the Basin whereof was of white Marble; the water was cover'd with Flowers; and it was beset all about with Flaggons, and Bottles of Wine.

We were invited to sit down, and to eat of the Fruit and Conserves, which were brought in, during which we had the Divertisement of Musick and Dancing. And as a further honour to us,* 1.252 the Patriarch was sent for, who came in immediately, having about him a Cassock of water'd Chamlet of a Violet Colour, and attended by two Priests clad in black, with Caps on their Heads. He was no ill Company: but the second of the two Brethren, whose name was Elias-beg, made the best sport of any in the company. For, to heighten the Divertisement of the Ambassadors, he would needs play on the Tamera, which is an Instrument used by the Persians instead of the Late: and then he call'd for seven Porcelane Cups,* 1.253 full of water, and striking them with two little sticks, he accorded them with the Lute. While we were heark∣ning to this Musick, Seferas-beg told us, that he would give us a kind of Musick, which should be as delightful as the other; and thereupon rising up, he ordered to be brought him, by two Pages, in two great wooden Dishes, several Chrystal Glasses, which he distributed a∣mong the Company, to whom he began the King of Persia's health. The whole day was spent in these divertisements,* 1.254 till that the Ambassadors perceiving night approach, took leave of their Hosts; but these, pretending to conduct us out of the house, brought us to the other side of the Garden, into a Gallery, where we found the Cloath laid, and cover'd with all sorts of Meat, Flesh, Fish, Pies, Fruits and Conserves, for the Collation. We sat down again, but it was only out of compliance, for it is not to be imagin'd we could have eaten ought. Nor in∣deed can I believe, that he by whom we were entertain'd had any other design therein than to shew his Magnificence, and the Gallantry and Freedome of his Nature, especially in his Con∣version of the darkest Night to bright Day. The Hall was all full of Lamps, which hung by a string fasten'd to the Roof, there being so great a number of them, and those so near one the o∣ther, that their Lights were so confounded, as that they made but one. There was also in the Garden, a great number of Torches and Candles, which wrought the same effect there.

Having, with much ado and many Complements, taken our leave, we could not by any means put off the second Brother out of a humour had taken him to accompany us to our Lodg∣ings, where he made a shift to get perfectly drunk, with Aquavitae and Ros Solis. And thus we concluded that day, which I confess was one of the most pleasant we had had in all our Travels, having been better treated, than we had been by the King himself.

The 19. The Ambassadors had their second private audience, which the King gave them in another apartment, at the end of a Garden, and which lasted not above half an hour; in regard the Council took time to consider of the Memorials they receiv'd in writing from them.* 1.255 It is ordinary to stay and Dine at the Court after the Conferences; therefore I shall forbear repeat∣ing the Circumstances, unless something in particular oblige me thereto: as it happen'd this day, in that the King having heard that the Ambassadors had Musicians in their Retinue, he sent them word, that he would gladly hear their Musick. It consisted of a base Viol, a Tenor, and a Violin, which play'd about half an hour, till the King sent us word, that that Musick was not ill, but that he thought that of the Country as good as it.

The 25. of September,* 1.256 the English made an entertainment for the Ambassadors and all their Retinue, which, in Magnificence, surpass'd all the rest. Their House or Lodge, was in the Basar, near the Maidan. The Structure was of great extent, divided into several appartments, and had a very fair Garden. We were at first brought into a Gallery, where we found Fruits and Conserves laid upon the floor, which was cover'd with Tapistry, according to the custom of the Country; and having done there, we pass'd into a great Hall, where we found the Ta∣ble furnish'd and serv'd after the English fashion.

They forgot not to drink the healths of most of the Kings and Princes of Europe, and we had the Divertisement of Musick upon the Virginals. After Dinner, we were brought into an open Hall, which look'd into the Garden, where we found a Collation of Conserves, with the best Wine the Countrey could afford, And whereas we had often seen the Dancing-women of the Country,* 1.257 they sent for some Indian Women of the same profession. There were brought six young Women, whereof some had their Husbands with them, who also either Danc'd or Play'd upon Violins; some came in alone. They were all somewhat of an Olive-colour, but had excellent good Features,* 1.258 a delicate smooth Skin, and very handsome Bodies. They had about their Necks much Gold and Pearls, and in their Ears Pendants of Gold or Silver, glit∣tering with Jewels and Spangles.

Some of them had Bracelets of Pearl, others of Silver, but they had all Rings on their Fin∣gers, and among the rest, they had upon the Thumb, upon which, in the place where the Stone should be, there was a piece of Steel, about the bigness of a Crown-piece of Silver, and so well polish'd, that it serv'd them for a Looking-glass. They were Cloath'd after a particular man∣ner,* 1.259 having on a kind of Stuff, which was so thin, that there was not any part of the Body but might be seen by the Company, save only what was hidden by the Drawers which they wore under their Petticoats. Some wore Caps on their Heads, others had them dress'd in Tiffany, and some had silk Skarfs, wrought with Gold and Silver, which crossing their shoulders reach'd down to the ground. Some were bare-foot, others were shod after a very strange manner. They had above the instap of the foot a string ty'd, with little Bells fastened thereto, whereby they discover'd the exactness of their Cadence, and sometimes corrected the Musick it self; as they did also by the Tzarpanes, or Castagnetts, which they had in their hands, in the managing whereof they were very expert. Their Musick consisted of Timbrels, according to the Indian way of Playing on them, Tabors, and Pipes.

The Indian Timbrels are two foot long, but broader in the middle than at the extremities, much after the fashion of our Barrels. They hang them about their Necks, and play on them with their fingers. The postures of these Indian VVomen in their Dancing are admirable. Their hands and feet are alwayes in action, as is also their whole Body: and many times, they address themselves to some particular person of the Company, either by an inclination of the Body, or to get the little Present they expect, which they very handsomely beg, either by stretching out their hands, yet so as that it seems to be done without any affectation, but as a necessary consequence of the Dance. They are much more pleasant in their Conversation than the Women of the Countrey. All these Dancing-women are common prostitutes, and very free to shew all their postures for money, nay to do beyond what might be expected from them. It was far-night ere we got away, which oblig'd the English to bring us home to our Lodgings.

The French Merchants made also an entertainment for the principal persons of our Re∣tinue, and treated them, with some of the English Merchants, at a Caravansera, very hand∣somely.

The first of October,* 1.260 the Ambassadors made a great Feast, whereto were invited the Musco∣vian Ambassador,* 1.261 the Governour of Armenia, and his two Brothers, the chiefest of the Eng∣lish and French Merchants, the Spanish Monks of the order of St. Augustine, and some Italian Carmelites. They treated them after the German way, with three several Courses, each con∣sisting of forty Dishes. The Musick consisted of Violins, Trumpets, and Timbrels, which made a goodly Noise, as did also our Cannon, when any Prince's health was drunk.

The Prince of Armenia, was taken, above all things, with certain services of Paste and Su∣gar, according to the German fashion, which were brought to the Table, rather to divert the Eye, than to sharpen the Appetite: and thought them so good, that having spoken of them at

Court, the King would needs see some. Whence it came that the Ambassadors ordered some of them to be made by our Cook; as also some Florentines, and other pieces of Pastry of that kind, which he took very kindly, and presented them to some Ladies about the Court, who thought them excellent good Meat.

In the afternoon they had the Divertisement of seeing some run at the Ring,* 1.262 at which M. Mandelslo got the prize, which was a great Silver Goblet, and the Ambassador Brugman did the best next him, and got a drinking Cup Vermilion gilt. Every time any one put into the Ring, one of the Brass pieces was fired.

The next day the Prior of the Augustines came to the Secretary of the Embassy,* 1.263 to complain to him of the debauch'd Lives of some of our Retinue, nay one of the chiefest among us, naming particularly the Ambassador Brugman, and discover'd that there were some among us, who, after the example of the Armenians, had married Women of the Country. He told him, that they had conceived a great joy and comfort, at the first news of our Embassy's coming thither, out of a hope, that our Lives would be an example to the Christians of the Country, who li∣ving among Mahumetans, were apt to fall into their vices and filthiness; but that, to his great regret, he found the contrary: entreating the Secretary, to speak of it to those in whose pow∣er it was to take some course therein, so to prevent the scandal which was given to others, the injury done to the name of Christ, and the infamy which must fall on the Prince, from whom the Embassy was sent. The Secretary went, with a resolution to give the Ambassador Brugman an accompt of these Remonstrances of the Priors, and to intreat him that some course might be taken, that the Domesticks might reform their Lives; but it was his misfortune, that coming into the Ambassador's Chamber, he found him in the company of an Armenian Woman, na∣med Tulla. But the Ambassador Brugman imagining the Secretary's design had been to sur∣prize him, was so incens'd thereat, that having sworn he would resent that affront, the Secreta∣ry, who had experience of his Revengefull and Irreconcilable disposition, retir'd to the Monaste∣ry of the Augustines, with an intention absolutely to quit his Relation to the Embassy, and to accept of the proffer which the Carmelites made him, to give him directions how to go for Ba∣bylon, and so by Aleppo into Italy, and thence into Germany. But the Ambassador coming to hear of the course he intended to take, sent him word, that if he did prosecute it, he would have him kill'd where-ever he were met: which he might the more easily have effected, in that the Caravans having their appointed places for Lodging, he might have found out a Persian, who, for a small matter, would have murther'd him. This apprehension, and the advice of some friends oblig'd the Secretary to intreat the Prior of the Augustines, to intercede for him, and to make his peace with Brugman; whereupon he return'd to the Ambassadors quarters, after he had staid thirteen dayes in the Monastery.

About this time,* 1.264 I went to the Suburbs of Tzulfa, with an intention to visit some Armenian Merchants, with whom I had had occasion to make acquaintance at the entertainments which had been made us. Coming near their Church, I saw going thither one that was to be Married▪ whom I had the curiosity to follow, purposely to see the Ceremonies of the Marriage. In the front of the Procession march'd their ordinary Musick, consisting of Timbrels, and Tabors, and after them went a Youth of about twelve or fifteen years of age, who had a wax Candle in his hand. The Bride-groom, who immediately follow'd the youth, was on Horse-back, clad in flower'd Satin, of several colours, and had on both sides of him two Men, handsome Persons, and very richly Cloath'd, as were also the other four who follow'd them, in two ranks. Af∣ter them were carried two dishes of Meat, two pitchers of Wine, and so many dishes of Apples. The Bride-groom being come to the Church, sate down with those who were come along with him, and call'd for the Meat and Fruit to be brought and set before him; but did not eat of ei∣ther. Those who had accompany'd him fell to it, but eat not much, and the rest was sav'd for the Priest, who was to bless the Marriage, save only the Wine, which was all drunk off. The Bride-groom having taken notice of me; rose up, and taking, on his right hand, a young Lad, and, on the left, one of those Men, who had accompany'd him thither, came straight to me, sa∣luted me, pour'd out himself of the Wine into an earthen Cup, and intreated me to drink, but he himself would not taste of it. In the mean time, the Bride came into the Church, having, on the right hand a young Maid, and, on the left, a Married Woman; all three with their fa∣ces cover'd with a thin Lawn. The Priest, having brought them near the Altar, read several Prayers, and blest the Marriage, by holding a wooden Cross over the Married couple, who in the mean time gave one another their hands, and joyn'd their heads together, yet so, as that the Bride's head touch the Bride-groom's breast, to whom, by that action, she acknowledg'd her self bound to submit, mutually promising fidelity and loyalty one to the other, under the Cross, that is, in misfortunes and afflictions. That done, the Priest gave them the Communion, delivering to each of them a piece of the Consecrated Hoast steep'd in Wine.

I say, of the Hoast, inasmuch as the bread of the Eucharist is not here leavened as in Musco∣vy, and other places, in the Greek Church, but is made of a paste without Leaven, about the bigness and thickness of a Crown piece of Silver. While the Communion was administred,

they sung, and play'd on certain great Cymbals, which the Armenians call Hambarzon. They never communicate without that kind of Mnsick, which they believe to be so much the more necessary, in that they say our Saviour, when he was to feed four thousand men with seven Loaves, went first up into the Mountain, where he offered his Prayers in Sacrifice to God, and that while he pray'd, two Angels came down from Heaven; and play'd upon that kind of Cymbals. After the Communion, they cast Rose-water upon the new-Married couple, and all the company, and ty'd a Scarf about the Bride's right hand, by which the Bridegroom draws her after him to the Church door, where all the company get on Horse-back, to goe to the place where there is a Feast prepared for them. For the three first nights after the Marriage, the Married couple touch not one another.

Coming out of this Church, I pass'd by another, where hearing a great noise, I went into it.* 1.265 The noise was made by striking with a great stick upon a deal board that was hung up, which the Armenians are forc'd to make use of instead of Bells, the Persians, it seems, not permit∣ting them to make use of any. I found that this Ceremony was perform'd in order to the Christ∣ning of a Child. There were in the Church, only the Priest and his Clark, an aged Woman who had brought the Child thither: and stood in a corner of the Church, and a young man, about eighteen years of age, who presented the Child to be Baptiz'd. After the Priest had said certain Prayers, and made several Questions to the God-father, this latter carry'd the Child to the Woman, who unswath'd it, and then the Priest, Clark and the God-father went into the Sacristy, where the Font stood within the Wall, being made like a little Trough, half an ell in length, and a quarter in breadth. The Priest, having consecrated the Water, and put in∣to it some consecrated Oyl, put the Child, naked, into the Font, and Baptiz'd him, in the Name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, pouring water three several times upon his Head. Then he poured water all over the Body, and made the sign of the Cross in his Fore∣head, with consecrated Oyl. The Armenians Christen not their Children, till they are full eight days old, unless they be weak; for in that case, they do it before, out of a belief, that the children, who dye without Baptism, are damned; whence it also comes, that they bury them not in the Church-yard, no more than they do those aged persons, who have not com∣municated once within a year.

The 3. of October,* 1.266 there was put into Prison a German Clock-maker, a menial Servant of the King of Persia's. His name was Iohn Rodolph Stadler, born at Zurich in Switzerland. He was aged about 38 years, and had Married the sister of that Tulla; whom we spoke of before. He had been five years in the King's service, and growing weary of being so long among in••i∣dels, he was desirous to take the opportunity of our Embassy to return into his own Country. He had, to that end, desired his Majesties leave, to depart the Kingdom, and the King, who had an affection for him, had promis'd him a Present of four hundred Crowns, to oblige him to stay two years longer in Persia: but that was so far from prevailing with him, that, on the contrary, he continu'd his importunities for his departure, and, to that end, got the Ambassa∣dors to intercede for him. In the mean time, a House-breaker coming one night into his house, out of a hope to find there the four hundred Crowns, the Clock-maker, who perceiv'd him, fell upon him, got him down, and having hurt him in several places, thrust him out of Doors. Afterwards, upon second thoughts, repenting himself, that he had suffered him to escape so, he took a Pistol, run after him, and kill'd him. The friends of the Deceas'd went immediately to the Ecclesiastical Judge, and made complaints of the Murther, committed by a Stranger and an Infidel, upon one of the Faithful, demanded Justice of him, and desir'd, that the Murtherer might be put into their hands, in order to his Execution. The Clock-maker who little thought he should be troubled for the death of a Robber, got on horse-back the next day to go to the Court; but he was taken in the street, and immediately put into the Palenk, which is a wooden Instrument, which comes about the Arms and the Neck, and very cruelly handled. The Ambassadors us'd much solicitation on his behalf, but the animosity of the Relations, and the authority of the Spiritual Judge, whom they call Mufti, carried it against him, so that he was condemn'd to dye; with this Proviso nevertheless, that if he would be cir∣cumcis'd, and embrace the Religion of the Mussulmans, it should be in the King's power to pardon him.

Most of the Lords, who had a great respect for him upon the account of his Profession, where∣in he was Excellent, press'd him very much to change his Religion, at least in outward shew, and for a time, promising him those advantages which he could not expect in Germany. He was two several times conducted to the place of execution, in the Maidan, before the Palace-Gate, that he might see the horrour of death before his eyes, out of an imagination; that would oblige him to renounce: but he equally slighted both promises and threats, his constan∣cy could not be shaken, and he wav'd all they said to him, with so resolute a courage, that it is not to be doubted but it was supernatural, and that his death was a kind of Martyrdom. He told them, that the King's favour should never make him lose that which Iesus Christ had done him, by redeeming him from eternal death, by his blood: That being entertain'd into the

King's service, his Majesty might dispose of his body, but that he would render up his Soul to him by whom it was created, that he might be therein glorify'd both in this World and the next. The Augustin Monks, and the Carmelites, endeavour'd all they could, to oblige him to make profession of the Roman Catholick Religion; but he continu'd firm to his former resoluti∣on, and would die in the Reform'd Religion, which he profess'd, and wherein he was perfectly well instructed.

At last,* 1.267 the Persians, finding it impossible to overcome his courage, either by fair or foul means, left him to the Relations of the deceas'd, who had the execution of him. He among them who went out to give him the first blow with the Cimitar, miss'd him, and wounded his next neighbour the Leg; the second struck into the Palenk, which they had left about his neck; the third struck him upon the neck, and smote down that Martyr of Christ, who after∣wards receiv'd three other blows, ere he expir'd; the first in the head, and the other two, in the face.

The Ambassador Brugman, who, as I said before, had a great kindness for this German's sister-in-law, was so enrag'd at this execution, that being at a loss of all judgement, and not knowing what to do for madness, he would needs divert himself by running at the Ring, in the presence of two or three Gentlemen, and the Canonier, causing, in the mean time, the great Guns to be fired above a hundred times. The body lay all that day expos'd to the sight of those that pass'd by, in the place where the execution had been done; till that in the evening, the Ambassador Brugman, with the King's permission, caus'd it to be brought to our Lodgings, with an intention to have it buried the next day. But the King having appointed that day to go a-hun∣ting, and invited the Ambassadors to that Divertisement; it was put off; so that the Ceremo∣nies of the enterment could not be performed till the 22.* 1.268 The Muscovian Ambassador, the Governour of Armenia and his brothers, most of the Armenians, and those of the Sect of Nessera, of which the Widdow of the deceas'd made profession (and whereof we shall dis∣course hereafter, as also of the other Europaean Christians) honour'd his Funeral with their presence.

The Hunting,* 1.269 we spoke of before, began the 17. The night before, the Mehemandar came to acquaint the Ambassadors, that his Majesty had, for their sakes, appointed a Hunting, that should last several dayes, and that it was his pleasure, they should have notice of it, that they might be ready against the next morning. It was imagin'd this was done out of design, that the Ambassadors might not be in person at the interment of the Clock-maker, but that hin∣dred not the Ambassador Brugman from giving order that the body should be kept till his re∣turn.

The 17. betimes in the morning, there were Horses brought for the Persons, and Camels for the Baggage. The Ambassadors got on Horse-back, with Father Ioseph, and about thirty per∣sons of their Retinue. The Mehemandar conducted them into a spacious Plain, whither the King came soon after, attended by above three hundred Lords, all excellently well mounted, and s••mptuously cloath'd. The King himself was in a Vestment of Silver Brocado, with a Tur∣bant adorn'd with most noble Heron's Feathers, and having led after him four Horses, whereof the Saddles, Harness, and covering Cloaths were beset with Gold and precious Stones. The King at his coming up very civilly saluted the Ambassadors, and ordered them to march near him on his left hand.

The other Chans and great Lords march'd after the King,* 1.270 with so little observance of order, that many times the Servants were shuffled in among their Masters. There was, among the rest, in the King's Retinue, an Astrologer, who alwayes kept very close to him, and ever and anon observ'd the position of the Heavens, that he might prognosticate what good or ill fortune should happen. These are believ'd as Oracles. We rode up and down that day above three Leagues, the King taking occasion often to change his Horse and upper Garments, which he did every day while the Hunting lasted. The morning was spent in Hawking, the Hawks were let out at Herns, Cranes, Drakes, nay sometimes at Crows, which they either met with by chance, or were set purposely upon. About noon, we came to an Armenian Village, where we found a great number of Tents of divers colours, pitch'd after an odd kind of way; which yet made a very pleasant Prospect. After the King had been brought by his Grande••s into his Tent, they came for the Ambassadors, who with some of their Gentlemen and Officers Dined with him. There was nothing extraordinary; Fruits and Conserves were brought in first, and afterwards the Meat, upon a kind of Bier, or Barrow, which was cover'd all over with plates of Gold, and it was serv'd in Dishes of the same metal.

In the after-noon, the Mehemandar carried the Ambassadors to be Lodg'd in another Village, about a quarter of a League from the place where the King had his Tents. The Inhabitants of those Villages are Armenians, and they are called Desach, and Werende, from the Countrey, where they liv'd before, near Iruan, whence they were heretofore translated by Schach-Abas, to the end, that, living near Ispahan, they might be employ'd about the Vines. When they understood we were Christians, they entertain'd us much more kindly, and made us several

Presents of Fruits and Wine. Scferas-beg, and some other Lords gave the Ambassadors a Visit, to be merry, and participate of a Collai••••on with them. They brought along with them two of those fallow Deer, which the Pesians call Ahu's and some Herns, which we sent to Ispahan. The King coming to hear that the Mchemandar had Lodg'd us in another Village, was very much displeas'd at it, and commanded that we should be brought the same night, to be Quar∣ter'd in the next house to that where he was Lodg'd himself; which was accordingly done, and our Supper was brought us out of the Kings Kitchin, in Dishes of Gold.

The 18. betimes in the morning, the King sent the Ambassadors word, that he would go with very few persons about him,* 1.271 a Crane-Hunting, intreating them that they would bring along with them only their Interpreter, out of this respect, that the Cranes might not be fright∣ned, by the great number of people, and that the pleasure of the Hunting might not be disturb'd by too much noise. The Ambassadors took only Father Ioseph along with them: but the sport was no sooner begun with the day, ere they sent for all the Retinue. They had made a great secret way under-ground, at the end whereof there was a field. about which they had scatter'd some Wheat. The Cranes came thither in great numbers, and there were above fourscore ta∣ken. The King took some of their feathers, to put into his Mendil, or Turbant, and gave two to each of the Ambassadors, who put them into their Hats. That done, they rode up and down the fields, and spent the time in Hawking, till that drawing towards noon, the King went to take his repast in the same house, where he had Dined the day before, and was in a very good humour. They had sent for his Musick thither.

At night, he sent to entreat the Ambassadors to come only with six persons along with them, to the hunting of the Drake and Wild-Goose,* 1.272 at a place, half a League from the Village. They all alighted within two hundred paces of the place where they expected the sport, and went in∣to a great Hut built of Earth, near which they had hidden the Nets upon the side of a small Brook, where there is abundance of fresh-water Fowl. The King caus'd us to sit down all about the walls of the Hut, and oblig'd us to help him off with some Bottles of excellent Wine, which was all the Divertisement we had that day. For, not so much as one Bird appearing, we return'd to our quarters, where the King sent us cold Mutton, boyl'd and roasted, sowr Sheeps milk, which they account a great delicacy, Cheese, and several Vessels full of Citrons, and other Fruits, raw and preserv'd.

The next day was our greatest day for sport,* 1.273 the King having ordered to be brought to the field, a great n••mber of Hawks, and three Leopards taught to hunt: but very few Dogs. Ha∣ving spent some time in beating the bushes up and down, and found nothing, the King carried us into a great Park, which was above two Leagues about. The Persians call it Hazartzirib, that is, a place where a thousand bushels of Wheat may be sown. It was compass'd with a ve∣ry high Wall, and divided into three Partitions. In the first were kept Harts Wild-Goats, Deer, Hares, and Foxes. In the second were kept that kind of Deer, which they call Ahu's; and in the third▪ Wild Asses, which they call Kouhrhan. The King first commanded the Leo∣pards to be let in among the Ahu's, and they took each of them one, Thence we went to the wild Asses, and the King seeing one of them at a stand, spoke to the Ambassador Brugman to fire his Pistol at it, and perceiving that he miss'd it, he took an Arrow, and though he Rid in full speed, shot it directly into the breast of the Beast. Another he took just in the Fore-head, and afterwards he wounded others in several places. He never fail'd, though he alwayes shot Riding in full speed. He was as well skill'd at his Sword as at his Bow; for perceiving one of the wild Asses could hardly go, he alights, and going directly to the Beast, gave it a blow with his Sword over the Back, with which single blow he cleft it down to the Belly. He struck ano∣ther with his Cymitar over the Neck, with so much strength and slight, that there wanted not an inch of his having cut it clear off. One of the Chans took the King's Sword, wip'd it clean, and put it into the Scabbard. Then we all went to another small Partition, that was in the mid∣dle of the Park.

At the entrance of this enclosed place, the King commanded one of the two Huntsmen who carried his Fowling-piece after him, to shoot at a wild Ass, which had before been wounded with an Arrow. The antienter man of the two thinking it a disparagement to him, that the command was directed to the younger, would needs prevent him, shot at the Beast, and miss'd. The company laugh'd at him, which put him into such madness, that suffering the King to go on, he returns to his Camerade, drew his Sword upon him, and cut off the Thumb of his right hand. The wounded party makes his complaints to the King, who immediately com∣manded the others head to be brought him: but upon the Mediation of several of the Grandees, his punishment was changed, and he had only his Ears cut off. The Executioner, I know not upon what inducement,* 1.274 cut off but some part of the Ear; which the Grand-Master, Mortu∣saculi-Chan perceiving, and thinking the man had foul play done him to have ought of his Ears left, alighted, took out his own knife, and cut off what the Executioner had left; to the great astonishment of all us, who were not accustomed to see Persons of that quality turn common Executioners.

Within the enclosed place I spoke of, there was a little building much after the fashion of a Theatre, into which the King brought us, to a Collation of Fruits and Conserves. That done, there were driven into the place thirty two wild Asses, at which the King discharg'd some shots with the Fowling-pieces, and shot some Arrows, and afterwards permitted the Ambassadors, and the other Lords to shoot at them.

It was pretty sport to see those Asses run, having sometimes ten or more Arrows shot into their Bodies, wherewith they incommodated and wounded the others when they got in among them, so that they fell a biting one another, and running one at another after a strange manner. Having knock'd down all those that were wounded,* 1.275 there were let in thirty wild Asses more, which they also kill'd and laid them all in a row before the King, to be sent to Ispahan, to the Court Kitchin. The Persians so highly esteem the flesh of these wild Asses, that they have brought it into a Proverb in their Kulusthan.

This kind of Hunting being over,* 1.276 Dinner was brought in at the same place. Here it was, that the Ambassador Brugman was pleas'd, upon his own account, to present the King of Per∣sia, with his Highness the Duke of Holstein's Picture, in a Box all beset with Diamonds, as also with a very fair Steel Looking-Glass, polish'd on both sides, and embellish'd with several Fi∣gures, grav'd by that famous Artist, Iohn Dresde, and done after an Excellent way, whereof he himself had been the Inventor.

After Dinner, we retir'd into some houses thereabouts, to take our Mid-dayes repose. The King sent us thither ten Ahues, and a very fair Stagg, the horns whereof had twelve brow∣ancklers: but ere we were well laid down, word was brought us, that the King was got on Horse-back, in order to some further sport. We immediately follow'd, and found him a Hawking. He soon gave over that sport, and taking along with him nine persons of his own Retinue, and six of ours, he went into a spacious low Walk, at the end whereof there was a place for the keeping of wild-Dacks: but instead of hunting, he must needs fall a Drinking, and was so dispos'd to mirth, that the noise we made, kept the Ducks and Geese from coming near the place. The King did Monsieur Mandelslo the favour, to permit him to present him with a Glass of Wine, and after he had drunk, and that Mandelslo had kiss'd his knee, he presented him with an Apple, which is an expression of so particular a kindness, that the whole Court be∣gan to look on him, from that time, as a Person very much in the King's favour.

The Kerek jerak, or ordinary Steward of his Majesties Houshold, whose name was Mahu∣med Aly-beg, who had fill'd the King his drink during this Debauch, and had not forgot to take off his own, was grown so drunk, that, sitting at the entrance of the Walk, he made such a noise, that the King sent one to bid him get thence, and perceiving no intreaties would prevail with him, he commanded him to be dragg'd thence, and set on horse-back.

Aiy-beg could not hinder their dragging of him thence, but they were not able to set him on horse-back, nay he abus'd and struck those that should have done it. The King goes out of the Gallery, and would have perswaded him to get on horse-back, but he was no better treated than the rest, so that laying his hand on his Sword, he made as if he would have cut off his head. The fright which that put the Steward into, made him cry out so loud, that the whole company concern'd themselves in the fear he was in.

He was very much in his Prince's favour, but knew him to be a person not to be jeasted with∣all, and he had▪ so many sad examples of it before his Eyes, that the terrors of Death did, in a moment, disperse the Vapours, which had unsetled his Brain, and bestow'd wings on those Feet, which the Wine had made unable to go. He immediately got on horse-back, and rid a∣way as fast as his horse could carry him, and so made a shift to escape that time. The king who was got into a pleasant humour, only Laugh'd at it; he came very merrily in to us; but with∣drew soon after, and we went and were lodg'd in our own quarters.

The 20. there was no hunting at all. We dined with the king, who was that day serv'd by a hundred young Men, very handsome Persons, and richly Clad, who alwayes stood before him. Many of our Retinue would rather have kept those Gentlemen company, and waited, than have been among the Guests, by reason of the trouble it was to them to sit according to the manner of the Country. This entertainment was made in a pleasant Summer-house that stood in the midst of a Garden, upon the water-side. In the afternoon, we went to another Village, about a League and a half from the City, and, in our way, took a white Heron.

The 21. the king sent betimes in the Morning to invite us to go a Pidgeon-hunting.* 1.277 We were carried up to the top of a great Tower, within which there were above a thousand Nests. We were plac'd all without, having in our hands little sticks forked at the ends. The king com∣manded our Trumpets to sound a charge, and immediately there were driven out of the Tower or Pidgeon-house, great numbers of Pidgeons, which were most of them kill'd by the king and those of his Company. This was the end of that kind of hunting, after which we took our way towards the City: but ere we got into it, the king carried us into one of his Gardens, cal∣led Tzarbach, which is no doubt the fairest of any we have seen in Persia, where we had ano∣ther Manificent treatment. As soon as we were got to our Lodgings, there were brought us,

from the King, twelve wild Drakes, and as many Pidgeons; but they were provided, it seems, only for the Ambassador Brugman and his Ladies.

Somes days afterwards it was publish'd by the Tzartzi or publick Crier, all over the City, that all should keep within their houses, and that none should presume to come into the street; the King being to goe that way abroad, to give the Court Ladies the Divertisement of Hunting.

The custom of the Country is, that the King's Wives and Concubines should not go abroad, unless it be in certain Chests or Cabinets, which are covered all over, and carried by Camels. All which notwithstanding, they permit not, that, while they are passing by, there should be any one in the Streets, or that any men should come within Musket-shot of the field where they are, upon pain of present Death. The King goes before, and the Ladies follow about half an hour after, accompany'd by their Women, and a great number of Eunuchs. When they are come into the field, they get on Horse-back, carry Hawks on their fists, and use their Bows and Arrows as well as the men.

Only the King and the Eunuchs stay among the Women; all the rest of the men are about half a League from them, and when the sport is begun, no man is to come within two Leagues of them, unless the King send for him by an Eunuch. The Lords of the Court in the mean time hunt some other way. The King return'd from this Hunting, Nov. 26. so Drunk, as were also most of his Lords, that they could hardly sit their horses. They made a halt at the said house called Tzarbach, and had engag'd themselves into that Debauch, upon a great Bridge which is at the entrance of the Park, where the great Lords had danc'd in his Presence, and found him such excellent sport, that those who did best, had great Presents bestow'd on them. It was observ'd to be his particular Humour, that he was very liberal in his Debauches, and many times gave away so much, that the next day he repented him of it.

Some eight days after this great Hunting-match we had an example of his Liberality in that kind.* 1.278 For, one day, being desirous to drink in the after-noon, and most of the company having left him, there being with him only the Eahtemad dowlet, and some Eunuchs, he caus'd a great Cup to be fill'd, which he ordered to be presented to the Chancellor, with a command, that he should drink his health. The Chancellor, who was not given to those Excesses, would have excus'd himself, but the King drew out his Sword, set it by the Cup, and bid him take his choice, either Drink, or Dye.

The Chancellor finding he had the Woolf by the Ears, and not knowing how to avoid drink∣ing, takes the Cup in his hand, and was going to drink; but perceiving the King a little turn'd about, he rises and gets away. The King was extremely incens'd thereat, and sent for him, but upon answer brought, that he was not to be found, he gave the Cup to an Achta or Eu∣nuch. He would also have excus'd himself, pretending he had not Drunk any Wine for a good while before, and that if he took off that Cup, it would infallibly be the Death of him; but the King was not satisfy'd with those excuses, and taking up his Sword would have kill'd him, if a Mehater, or Gentleman belonging to his Chamber had not prevented him, yet did he not do it so clearly, but that he himself was hurt in the Leg, and the Eunuch in the hand. The King, who would have his will, finding all had left him, address'd himself to one of his Pages, the•••• on of Alymerdan-Chan, Governour of Candahar, who was a very handsom young Lad, and ask'd him, whether he had the courage to venture at the drinking off of that Cup. The young Lad made answer, that he knew not what he might be able to do, and that he would do his endeavour, whereupon kneeling down before the King, he took several draughts of it. At last, thinking it too great a task to go through, and finding himself animated by the Wine, and the King's obliging expressions, who still egg'd him on to Drink, he rises, cast his arms about the King's neck, kisses him, and says, Patscha humse alla, taala menum itzund' Ischock jasch wersun; that is, I pray God grant the King a long and happy Life: and the Prince was so much taken with the action, that he sent to the Treasury for a Sword, whereof the Handle, Scabard, and Belt, were beset with precious stones, and presented him with it; and bestow'd on ano∣ther Page, who had help'd off with some of the Wine, another very rich Sword, and a great Golden Cup. But the next day, he was so cast down, and so Melancholy, that Riding abroad into the Country, he was not able to hold his Bridle. They put him into a better humour, by getting from the Pages the best Sword and the Golden cup, giving them some Tumains in ready Money.

The 19. of November,* 1.279 the Eahtemad Dowlet, or Chancellor, made a great Feast for the Ambassadors, in a most fair Hall, which as soon as a man came to the entrance of it, won∣derfully charm'd the Eye. For in the midst of the Vestibulum, there was a great Fountain, out of which came several spouts of water. The Hall it self had on the upper part of it, towards the Roof,* 1.280 several Pourtractures of Women, cloath'd in several Modes, all done after some Europaean Copies; and under them the Walls were set all about with Looking-Glasses, to the number of above two hundred, of all sizes. So that when a manstood in the midst of the Hall, he might see himself of all sides.

We were told, that in the King's Palace, in the appartment of his Wives, there is also a Hall, done all about with Looking-Glasses, but far greater and much fairer than this. The entertain∣ment which the Chancellor made us was very Magnificent, all the meat being serv'd in silver Dishes. We had the Divertisement of the King's Musick and Dancing-women all the time we were at Dinner, during which they behav'd not themselves with the same respect and reserv'd∣ness as they had done in the King's presence, when we din'd at Court, but shew'd tricks much beyond any thing they had done before, one whereof I observ'd, which I think almost Miracu∣lous. One of these Women having plac'd in the midst of the Hall a Vessel of Porcelane two foot high, and taken several turns about it, took it up between her Leggs, with such slight, that not any one of us perceiv'd it, and kept on the Dance with the same ease, and with the same slight return'd it to the same place, not making one wrong step all the time.

These Women are calllled Kachbeha's,* 1.281 and they are employ'd not only in this Divertisement, but it any other that may be expected from Women. Those who entertain their Friends, what quality soever they be of, will not have them want any Diversion they can desire; and the Per∣sians, who are great Lovers of Women, will not omit at their treatments that sport which they most delight in. Whence it comes, that there is no great Feast made in Persia, at which these Dancing-women are not brought in, as a necessary part of it. The Master of the Entertainment proffers them to his Guests, and he who hath a mind to any one of them, rises from the Table, goes into a private room with her whom he most fancies, and having done his work, comes to his place again, and the Woman goes to the Dance, without any shame on the one side, or no∣tice taken of it on the other. Those who make some difficulty to venture themselves with such common Ware, refuse the Master's kindness with a Complement, and thank him for the ho∣nour he does them. There is but one City in all Persia, to wit, that of Ardebil, where this custom is not suffered; which is done upon the accompt of the Sanctity of the place, which is so great, that Schach-Abas thought himself oblig'd to banish thence all the publick VVo∣men.

Dinner being ended, the Musick and the Dancers withdrew, and the Ambassadors with the Chancellor, made some Progress in their Negotiation, and in the mean time we were carried a walking into the Garden, where they treated us with Fruit and Conserves.

As to this Eahtemad dowlet;* 1.282 his name was Tagge, and he was about sixty years of age, ha∣ving one eye black, the other blew, a full face; but yellowish or inclining to an Olive, and ve∣ry high colour'd; whence it came, that he was ordinarily called Saru Tagge. He wore no beard, as being an Eunuch; and upon that occasion we shall here give a short account of him and his fortunes, which we think may deserve insertion in this place, though there are various relations thereof.

Some affirm, that Saru Tagge, being yet very young, and his employment being to Copy out Writings in the City of Keintze, he fell in love with a young Boy, and not prevailing with him to consent to his brutality, he forc'd him. The Boy's Father made his complaints to Schach-Abas, then King of Persia, who commanded that Saru Tagge should have his Syk, (so they call the privy parts) with all its dependences, cut off. Others relate, that Schach-Ahas condemn'd him to die, and that Tagge coming to hear of it, cut off, himself, those parts with a Rasour, sent them to the King, with this request, that having himself punish'd the Members which had offended, his Majesty would be pleas'd to let his head alone, which had done no more harm, and might, one time or other, be serviceable to him; and that the King astonish'd at the strange resolution of the man, conceiv'd an affection for him, and finding him an under∣standing person, made him Secretary in his Court of Chancery. Schach-Sesi having with his own hands kill'd Taleb-Chan, this man's Predecessor, sent Tagge the Golden Ink-horn, which is the Badge of the Dignity of Chancellor.

The 21. following,* 1.283 the Chancellor invited the Ambassadors to a second entertainment, by express order from the King, that they might make some further progress in their Affairs. They had a very long conference together, after which we were treated at dinner, but not with the same Magnificence as the time before.

The 29. the two Brothers, Seferas, and Elias-beg, came to visit the Ambassadors, who would needs have them stay Dinner, Elias-beg endeavour'd all he could to be merry himself, and to make others so, but we easily found it was done with some violence, and that his heart answer'd not his outward demeanour. The reason of it we understood from his elder brother, who told us, that the King had a great kindness for them, and did them very great favours; but that it was a dangerous thing to jeast with him, and that he had a very sad assurance of it in his bro∣ther, who being much respected at the Courr, for the freedom of his humour, and his divertive conversation, the King told him one day, that he wanted not any thing, save that he was not of the Mussulman's Religion, and that he could not do him a greater pleasure, than to suffer Circumcision. Whereto Elias-beg, reply'd smiling, that that might happen one time or other, intreating his Majesty not to speak any further of serious affairs, but to prosecute his Divertise∣ments. There was no more said to him of it for a good while, but upon occasion of the Clock∣makers

constancy, the king sent him word, that he should remember the promise he had made to be Circumcis'd. He would have excus'd himself, pretending what he had spoken was in jeast; but those whom the king had sent to him, would not be shuffled off with that answer, took him, and Circumcis'd him by force. Elias-beg confirm'd what his elder brother had told us; but with this protestation, that he was nevertheless a Christian in his Soul, and that he would die in the profession he had ever made of that Religion.

December the second,* 1.284 Abasculi Beg, our Mehemandar, came, and brought us the Presents from the king;* 1.285 to wit, to each of the Ambassadors a Horse, with the Saddles cover'd all over with plates of Gold, and the Bridles having great buckles of the same Metal: Two Garments, according to the Persian wearing, together with the Mendils and Mianbends, that is, the Tur∣bant and Girdle, of Gold Brocado, according to the mode of the Countrey. Moreover, to be divided between them both, two hundred and five pieces of fifteen sorts of silk stuffs, Satin, Damask, Darai, Taffata, Cotton, &c. and two hundred Tumains in money, which amont to just three thousand, three hundred and seventy Piastres, or a thousand French Pistols, towards the expences of their travel in their return. The five principal persons of the Retinue had each of them a Satin Vestment, and another of Taffata, with Flowers of Gold and Silk. The other Gentlemen had each of them one of Taby, with Flowers of Gold; but the rest of the Retinue had not any thing sent them. The Ambassador Brugman seiz'd the money, bestow'd some of it among those of our Company, who stood in need thereof, to buy things necessary for their jour∣ney, and distributed the rest among some of his Armenian friends.

The next day,* 1.286 Decemb. 3. the King sent to invite the Ambassadors to Dine with him once more, which was to be the last Treatment we were to have at Court. The Mahemandar told them, it was the custom, that they should have, upon their own cloaths, the best of those Gar∣ments, which the King had sent them. The Ambassadors, at first, made some difficulty to have that complyance; but when they were told it was a custom observ'd by all Ambassadors, and that no doubt the King would take it very ill at their hands, if they presented themselves be∣fore him, without the marks of his Liberality, they at last resolv'd to do it, and, after their ex∣ample, all the rest of the Retinue. We Dined in the Hall of the Divan Chane, and all things were performed with the same Ceremonies as at the first time. Only this happened more than ordinary,* 1.287 that, while the fruits were yet upon the Table, the Chancellor ordered to pass before the King, the Present, which he is wont to make every year once, and sometimes twice, for reasons whereof we shall give some account hereafter. This Present consisted in twelve excel∣lent Horses, very richly cover'd, forty nine Camels loaden with Turkie Tapistry, and other fine stuffs of Wool, fifteen Mules, a thousand Tumains, or fifty thousand Livers in money, forty pieces of Gold and Silver Brocado, and several other stuffs and Commodities, whereof there was such abundance, that it took up an hour and a half ere all were pass'd by, to be dis∣pos'd into the Treasury: in as much as for every Tumain, there was a several person, who car∣ried it in his hand, in a silken Purse of several colours.

After Dinner,* 1.288 the Kurtzibachi, or Lord high Chamberlain, came and conducted the Am∣bassadors to the King, of whom they took their leave. The King delivered them himself the Answer he made to the Letters they had brought him, with recommendations to his Highness our Master, and promis'd that he would send to Visit him by an express Embassy. The Ambassa∣dors answer'd the Complement, and thank'd the King for the honour he had done them, and the noble Treatments they had received from him, during the stay they had made in his king∣dom; and return'd to their lodgings, observing the same order in their going from the Court as had been done at their going thither.

Decemb. 4. the Poslanick,* 1.289 or Muscovian Ambassador, Alexei Savinowits went to see the Chancellor, who dismiss'd him in the Kings name, that he might return in our Company. The dayes following, those Lords, who had receiv'd any Presents from our Ambassadors, sent theirs to them.

Decemb. 5. Chosru Sulthan sent the Ambassadors two ••••orses.

The next day,* 1.290 Tzanichan, the Kurtzibaschi, sent his Present to the Ambassadors; but in regard he had done it, by the Persian fugitive, Rustan, who had so basely left the Ambassa∣dors, to change his Religion, they would not accept of it, and sent him word, that they much wondred, that, it being, as they conceiv'd, his design to do them an honour, and to oblige them by the Present he made them, he would send it by a person, for whom they must needs have an aversion, and one they could not endure to see. Three dayes after, he sent them, by another Man, two Horses, a Mule, and eighteen pieces of Stuff, which they accepted, and gave the person who brought the Present, five Pistols.

The 10. the Chamberlian sent them two Horses; the Chancellor, two Horses, a Mule, and forty five pieces of stuffs, among which there were several, whereof the ground∣work was Gold.

The same day, the Mehemander came to give us notice, that the King intended within eight days to goe for Kaschan, and that if we could be ready against that time, we might make our advantage of the convenience, as far as that City. Which oblig'd us to put all things in readiness for our journey; and the 12. we made an entertainment, in order to our departure, whereto were invited the same persons who had been at the first, save that the acquaintances, which the Ambassador Brugman had made in the Suburbs of Tzulfa, occasion'd his invitation of several Armenians to this, who had not been at the former

In the afternoon, there was running at the Ring, at which Divertisement was present also the Portuguez Agent, who manag'd the Viceroy's affairs at the Court, and a rich Iew, who drove a great trade between the Indies and Constantinople. The Walls, windows, and tops of the neighbouring houses were full of Persians and Armenians, who came thither to see that Divertisement.

The noise of the Trumpets and Tymbrels continu'd all the time,* 1.291 as did also that of our Ar∣tillery, which the Ambassador Brugman ordered to be discharg'd at all the healths that were drunk, and that so often, that Father Ioseph, our Interpreter, who knew that they might hear every shot at the Kings Palace, fearing his Majesty should take it ill, was forc'd to represent to him the Tyrannical humour of that Prince, and the danger, whereto he expos'd not only his own person, after the Ambassadors were departed, but also all that belong'd to the Embassy. He told him, that it was no extraordinary thing to see that Prince exercise his cruelties upon all sorst of persons, without any regard of their Quality or Character, and intreated him to com∣mand that there should be no more shooting. But all these Remonstrances prevail'd nothing with the Ambassador, who ordered the Trumpets to sound, and the Gans to be fir'd as much as at any time before. We understood since, that the King was so incens'd against the said Am∣bassador, as well for this action, as another, whereof I shall presently give an account, that he was upon the point of ordering him to be cut in pieces, and it may be all of us with him, if the prudence and moderation of the Chancellor had not prevail'd with him to forbear, by represen∣ting to him, that the Prince his Master, who, no doubt approv'd not the insolences of that Am∣bassador, would be sure to punish them, as soon as he were advertised thereof.

But what most incens'd the King was this following adventure.* 1.292 Lion Bernoldi, who had the Quality of a Gentleman, in the Retinue of the Ambassadors, was put into Irons by order of the Ambassador Brugman; upon this account, that being born at Antwerp, whence he re∣tir'd into Holland, there were some jealousies conceiv'd of him, upon the frequent Visits he made to the Dutch Agent, from whom he receiv'd many little kindnesses. However, that the Agent might not take ought amiss, and the more to smother the jealousie had of him, it was given out that he had rob'd the Ambassadors. He found means to make his escape, and cast him∣self into the Sanctuary of the Persians, which they call Alla-Capi, which is part of the King's Palace. The Ambassadors sent to intreat the King to return their Domestick into their hands; but answer was brought, that if what he was charg'd to have stolen were found about him, it should be restor'd, but that as to his person, it was not in his power to force him out of the Sanctuary, though he had committed some Crime against his Royal Dignity. The Ambassador Brugman was so transported with passion at this answer, that he said aloud, that he would have him, and would kill him, though he took refuge and were found within the King's arms. Nay, not content to betray this sally of his passion,* 1.293 he suborn'd an Armenian, who was to perswade Bernoldi, to get out of the Sanctuary in the night, and to hide himself some where else, while he sent above twenty persons a-foot and on horse-back, Arm'd with Fire-locks, and Muskets with match lighted, to the Palace-Gate, with express Order to kill him, if he came out, or to get him thence by force. His Collegue endeavour'd all he could to prevent that violence, and the Kings Guard oppos'd it; but the insolence of the party he had sent out upon this design, who did more than they were commanded to do, was so great, that, making head against the Guard, who would have thrust them back, the King awak'd at the noise, and, desirous to prevent fur∣ther disorder,* 1.294 commanded that Gate, through which there was an entrance into the Sanctua∣ry, to be shut, which was more than had been seen in the memory of Man; it being the de∣••••g•• of the Foundation, that those unfortunate persons who are forc'd thither, should find their way in at any hour.

The King was so incens'd at these proceedings, that as soon as he got up the next morning, he told the Lords of his Councel, that being not safe, even within his own Palace, by reason of the Germans, who would not suffer him to take his rest in the night, there was a necessity, either he or they should leave the City.

The same Ambassador engag'd himself in another unhandsom business, which was of so much the more dangerous consequence, that all the Christians of the Suburbs were concern'd in it. The King commands every year, a search to be made among the Armenians, for all the hand∣som Maids, and makes choice of those whom he likes best. Our Interpreter for the Armenian Language, whose name was Seran, a person of a leud life, addressing himself to the Ambassa∣dor Brugman, told him, that, in that search, he was like to lose a Daughter, a beautiful Lass, whom he tenderly lov'd, and desir'd his advice and protection in that case. Brugman advis'd him to oppose the Searchers, and to call to his assistance the Domesticks of the Embassy, and assur'd him, they should be ready to relieve him. This proceedure of his, and several other im∣prudent actions, had, at last, forc'd the King to a more severe resolution against the said Am∣bassador, nay, haply against the whole Company, if the Chancellor had not moderated his passion.

Notes

• * 1.1

  1636.
• * 1.2

  The name of Persia.
• * 1.3

  1366.
• * 1.4

  The Pro∣vince of Erak.
• * 1.5

  The Pro∣vince of Fars.
• * 1.6

  The Pro∣vince of Sciruan.
• * 1.7

  The Pro∣vince of Iran.
• * 1.8

  1636.
• * 1.9

  The Pro∣vince of Adirbeit∣zan.
• * 1.10

  The Pro∣vince of Kilan.
• * 1.11

  Mesande∣ran.
• * 1.12

  Lahetza••.
• * 1.13

  Rescht▪
• * 1.14

  Kesker.
• * 1.15

  The Pro∣vince of Choralan.
• * 1.16

  The Pro∣vince of Sablusthan
• * 1.17

  Sitzistan.
• * 1.18

  Kirman.
• * 1.19

  1366▪
• * 1.20

  The Pro∣vince of Ch••sistan▪
• * 1.21

  The Pro∣vince of Tzisire, or Diarbek.
• * 1.22

  The Pro∣vince of Schiruan••
• * 1.23

  The Houses of Persia.
• * 1.24

  Brugmans incivility.
• * 1.25

  The Gover∣nours re∣sentment.
• * 1.26

  The Cupt∣zi comes to Niasabath
• * 1.27

  The Tartar-Prince of Dagestan visits t••e Ambassa∣dors.
• * 1.28

  Brugman's indiscre∣tion.
• * 1.29

  The Am∣bassadors leave Nia∣sabath.
• * 1.30

  Padars. a people.
• * 1.31

  They lodge in a Cara∣vansera.
• * 1.32

  The Moun∣tain of Barmach.
• * 1.33

  Ruins of Fortresses.
• * 1.34

  The opini∣on of the Persians concerning these For∣tresses.
• * 1.35

  The Sepul∣chre of a Persian Saint.
• * 1.36

  The Sepul∣chre descri∣bed.
• * 1.37

  The Sepul∣chre of a∣nother Saint.
• * 1.38

  Shels in mountains far from the Sea.
• * 1.39

  The super∣stition of the Per∣sians.
• * 1.40

  The recepti∣on of the Ambassa∣dors at Schama∣chie.
• * 1.41

  The Chan of Schama∣chie meets the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.42

  Allows them seats; contrary to the custom,
• * 1.43

  The services of the Feast.
• * 1.44

  A strange sort of Napkins.
• * 1.45

  The neat∣ness of the Persians.
• * 1.46

  The Chan an exel∣lent Marks∣man,
• * 1.47

  One of the company kills him∣self with drinking Aquavitae.
• * 1.48

  1637.
• * 1.49

  The Arme∣nians bless the Water on T••ei••∣day.
• * 1.50

  The Am∣bassadors, assist at their Ser∣vice.
• * 1.51

  The Cere∣monies of the Armi∣nians in Consecra∣ting the Water.
• * 1.52

  The Calen∣ter's Feast.
• * 1.53

  The Am∣bassadors Presents to the Chan.
• * 1.54

  The Gover∣nour per∣mits the Armeni∣ans to build a Church.
• * 1.55

  The Schach•• orders for the Ambas∣sadors.
• * 1.56

  The Mus∣covian En∣voy leaves Schama∣chie.
• * 1.57

  FEBRU.
• * 1.58

  A College for the in∣struction of Youth.
• * 1.59

  1637.
• * 1.60

  A School for Chil∣dren.
• * 1.61

  An Au∣gustine Monk vi∣sits the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.62

  A Feast in memory of Haly.
• * 1.63

  A Persian Priest plea∣santly dress'd.
• * 1.64

  A Proces∣sion.
• * 1.65

  The Am∣bassadors treated by the Chan.
• * 1.66

  An order from the Court for their de∣parture.
• * 1.67

  MARCH
• * 1.68

  Another Festival.
• * 1.69

  The first day of the Year.
• * 1.70

  Which con∣sists of 12, Lunar moneths.
• * 1.71

  Our Persi∣an Inter∣preter proves a Renegade.
• * 1.72

  The Am∣bassadors re-embur∣sed their expence.
• * 1.73

  Scamachie described▪
• * 1.74

  Its streets and houses. Its Inhabi∣tants, their Language, &c.
• * 1.75

  The Chan's charge.
• * 1.76

  Sepulchres of Saints.
• * 1.77

  The Tomb of a Prin∣cess of Persia.
• * 1.78

  The perpe∣tual f••••e of the antient Persians.
• * 1.79

  The Ambas∣sadors pre∣secute their journey.
• * 1.80

  The de∣meanour of one of the Ambas∣sadors.
• * 1.81

  Nomades.
• * 1.82

  The con∣junction of Cyrus and Aras.
• * 1.83

  The Fron∣tiers of Schiruan and Mokan
• * 1.84

  APRIL.
• * 1.85

  Ahu, a kind of Deer.
• * 1.86

  Tortoises.
• * 1.87

  The Inha∣bitants.
• * 1.88

  Betzirwan
• * 1.89

  Tartarian Hutts.
• * 1.90

  Ill weather,
• * 1.91

  A ven••∣••••ous Herb▪
• * 1.92

  The King sends ano∣ther Condu∣ctor to meet the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.93

  The en∣trance of the Ambassa∣dors into Ardebil.
• * 1.94

  The Gover∣nour gives them a Col∣lation.
• * 1.95

  The Chan's House de∣scribed.
• * 1.96

  The vene∣ration the Persians have for their Prince▪
• * 1.97

  Thaberick▪
• * 1.98

  Is serv'd without Wine.
• * 1.99

  The ex∣pence at Ardebil.
• * 1.100

  The Gover∣nours visit
• * 1.101

  The visit of an Arme∣nian Bi∣shop. Christian Churches in Asia.
• * 1.102

  Kurban or Sacrifice of the Per∣sians.
• * 1.103

  The Pilgri∣mages of the Persi∣ans and Turks.
• * 1.104

  Particu∣lars of the Pilgrimage to Meca.
• * 1.105

  Prayers for the dead.
• * 1.106

  The Chan treats the Ambassa∣dors.
• * 1.107

  Acquaints them with the violent death of the Grand-Signior.
• * 1.108

  MAY.
• * 1.109

  The Chan∣cellor of Persia's son visits the Ambas∣sadors.
• * 1.110

  A particu∣lar Festival of the Per∣sians.
• * 1.111

  A strange kind of Devotion.
• * 1.112

  A false miracle.
• * 1.113

  The last Ceremonie•• of the Fe∣stival.
• * 1.114

  Persian Poets.
• * 1.115

  Fire-work.
• * 1.116

  The enter∣ment of Hossein reprrsented
• * 1.117

  A bloody devotion.
• * 1.118

  Ardebil described.
• * 1.119

  The air not so warm as elsewhere.
• * 1.120

  The ferti∣lity of its soil.
• * 1.121

  Its Streets▪
• * 1.122

  Its Mar∣ket-place.
• * 1.123

  The S••pul∣chre of Schich-Sefi a San∣ctuary.
• * 1.124

  Its Met∣zids or Mosqueys.
• * 1.125

  The Ambas∣sadors visit Sehich-Sefi's Se∣pulchre.
• * 1.126

  Lay down their Arms at the en∣trance.
• * 1.127

  Schich-Sefi's Fast of forty days.
• * 1.128

  Laicks not permitted to appreach the Sepul∣chre.
• * 1.129

  A miracu∣lous Vault.
• * 1.130

  The Library
• * 1.131

  The Kitchin
• * 1.132

  The Charity of the place.
• * 1.133

  Sepulchres of the Kings of Persia.
• * 1.134

  A Fable.
• * 1.135

  Commissa∣ries for the reception of the pro∣fits.
• * 1.136

  The confi∣dence of a Favourite,
• * 1.137

  Insolence punished.
• * 1.138

  Another Saint's Se∣pulchre.
• * 1.139

  The Tomb described.
• * 1.140

  The Gover∣nour of Ardebil admini∣sters an Oath to the religious men be∣longing to the Sepul∣chre.
• * 1.141

  Medicinal Waters.
• * 1.142

  Sulphure∣ous Sour∣ces.
• * 1.143

  Sources of hot water.
• * 1.144

  Serpents discover the whole∣somness of the water.
• * 1.145

  JUNE.
• * 1.146

  The King sends the Ambassa∣dors ano∣ther Con∣ductor.
• * 1.147

  They leave Ardebil.
• * 1.148

  The Chan takes leave of the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.149

  The Pro∣vince of Chalcal.
• * 1.150

  The corrup∣tion of the Persian Officers.
• * 1.151

  Grass-hop∣pers.
• * 1.152

  Kisilosein.
• * 1.153

  The Mehe∣mandars complaint.
• * 1.154

  The Persi∣ans set up∣on the Am∣bassadors Guard.
• * 1.155

  The City of Senkan.
• * 1.156

  A Horse∣man had neither hands n••r feet.
• * 1.157

  Senkan destroyed by Tam∣berlane.
• * 1.158

  A branch of Mount Taurus.
• * 1.159

  Sulthanie.
• * 1.160

  Its situa∣tion.
• * 1.161

  Built by Choda∣bende.
• * 1.162

  A likely story.
• * 1.163

  A Para∣phrase of the Alcho∣ran.
• * 1.164

  The super∣stition of the Persi∣ans.
• * 1.165

  Artillery.
• * 1.166

  Tamber∣lane had a respect for the Mos∣queys.
• * 1.167

  The Women travel in great Chests
• * 1.168

  The situati∣on of Cas∣win.
• * 1.169

  Is the anti∣ent Ar∣sacia.
• * 1.170

  Hath above 100000. Inhabistants.
• * 1.171

  Its Lan∣guage.
• * 1.172

  The anti∣ent resi∣dence of the Kings of Persia.
• * 1.173

  Its Palace.
• * 1.174

  Markets.
• * 1.175

  Turqueses and Ru∣bies vary cheap.
• * 1.176

  The Sepul∣chre of Hossen•• Son▪
• * 1.177

  Caravan∣seras.
• * 1.178

  The fabu∣lous story of Lok∣man.
• * 1.179

  Risa a false Pro∣phet.
• * 1.180

  The History of the In∣dian Prince▪
• * 1.181

  Schach-Tamas's evasion.
• * 1.182

  The Am∣bassadors send to vi∣sit the Indi∣an Prince.
• * 1.183

  JULY
• * 1.184

  The Gover∣nour gives the Ambas∣sadors a Divertise∣ment.
• * 1.185

  Elephant▪
• * 1.186

  An error of the Anti∣ents.
• * 1.187

  The Moun∣tain of Elwend.
• * 1.188

  A pleasant story.
• * 1.189

  The Am∣bassadors leave Cas∣win.
• * 1.190

  The situa∣tion of Saba,
• * 1.191

  Excellent fruits at Saba.
• * 1.192

  Excessive heats.
• * 1.193

  The City of Kom.
• * 1.194

  Its situa∣tion.
• * 1.195

  Is Ptolo∣my's Gu∣riana.
• * 1.196

  Its fruits.
• * 1.197

  Melons.
• * 1.198

  Its Traf∣sick.
• * 1.199

  The Inha∣bitants in∣clin'd to thesi.
• * 1.200

  They leave Kom.
• * 1.201

  Come to Katschan.
• * 1.202

  The Daru∣ga's ad∣vancement
• * 1.203

  The situa∣tion of Katschan. Its bigness
• * 1.204

  A House with a 1000. Doors.
• * 1.205

  Venemous Creatures.
• * 1.206

  A remedy against Scorpions.
• * 1.207

  The Author stung by a Scorpion.
• * 1.208

  Another venemous insect.
• * 1.209

  Its venom, and the effect of it.
• * 1.210

  The remedy.
• * 1.211

  Sheep eat these in∣sects.
• * 1.212

  The Fable of Schutza Adin.
• * 1.213

  Hassan Kaschi an Arbian Author.
• * 1.214

  Elmacini another Arabian Author.
• * 1.215

  The Am∣bassadors leave Cas∣chan.
• * 1.216

  Come to Natens.
• * 1.217

  Contin••e their jour∣ney.
• * 1.218

  AUG.
• * 1.219

  Are lodg'd among the Armeni∣ans.
• * 1.220

  Are visited by the Dutch Factor.
• * 1.221

  A quarre. with the Indian Ambassa∣dors Do∣mesticks.
• * 1.222

  The Indian Leader kill'd.
• * 1.223

  The King inter p••ses his Autho∣rity.
• * 1.224

  The Indian Ambassa∣dor dis∣miss'd.
• * 1.225

  His aboad at Ispahan
• * 1.226

  His pre∣sents.
• * 1.227

  The occas••∣on of the Embassy▪
• * 1.228

  He departs▪
• * 1.229

  The Am∣bassadors change their quar∣ters.
• * 1.230

  The King treats them still.
• * 1.231

  They go in∣to Musco∣vian habits
• * 1.232

  Their first audience.
• * 1.233

  The Pre∣sents made in the Prince's name.
• * 1.234

  The Ambas∣sadors Presents.
• * 1.235

  The Persi∣ans ob∣serve no Order in their Cere∣monies.
• * 1.236

  The recep∣tion of the Ambassa∣dors.
• * 1.237

  The Hall for audi∣ence.
• * 1.238

  Silver Pails to water hor∣ses.
• * 1.239

  The King's age.
• * 1.240

  The Am∣bassadors bro••ght in to audience
• * 1.241

  Gold Plate.
• * 1.242

  Schiras-wine.
• * 1.243

  The Carver.
• * 1.244

  Their man∣ner of sit∣ting at meat.
• * 1.245

  Silence at meats.
• * 1.246

  Musick.
• * 1.247

  The first private Audience.
• * 1.248

  Celebrate the Festival of St. Au∣gustine.
• * 1.249

  Dl••e in the Mona∣stery.
• * 1.250

  SEPT.
• * 1.251

  Two Arme∣nian Lords visit the Ambassa∣dors.
• * 1.252

  Musick.
• * 1.253

  Porcelane Musick.
• * 1.254

  The magni∣ficence of an Arme∣nian Lord.
• * 1.255

  The second private Audience.
• * 1.256

  The Am∣bassadors treated by the English.
• * 1.257

  Indian Dancing-Women.
• * 1.258

  Handsome and well shap'd.
• * 1.259

  Their habit
• * 1.260

  OCTOB.
• * 1.261

  The Am∣bassadors make a feast.
• * 1.262

  Running at a Ring.
• * 1.263

  The scan∣dalous Life of one of the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.264

  Ceremonies of Marri∣age among the Arme∣nians.
• * 1.265

  The Bap∣tism of the Armeni∣ans.
• * 1.266

  The Tragi∣cal History of a Clock-maker.
• * 1.267

  Is execute••▪
• * 1.268

  His enter¦ment.
• * 1.269

  The King takes the Ambassa∣dors along with him a-hunting▪
• * 1.270

  An Astro∣loger.
• * 1.271

  Crane-hunting.
• * 1.272

  Drake, and Wild-goose-hunting.
• * 1.273

  Leopards.
• * 1.274

  A Persian Lord turns Executio∣ner.
• * 1.275

  Wild-Ass∣••••esh much esteem'd in Persia.
• * 1.276

  Presents from one of the Am∣bassadors to the King
• * 1.277

  Pidgeon-Hunting.
• * 1.278

  The King liberal in his De∣bauches.
• * 1.279

  The Chan∣cellor treats the Ambassa∣dors.
• * 1.280

  A Hall set all about with Look∣ing- Glasses
• * 1.281

  The Persian treatments have all Diversions
• * 1.282

  The Chan∣cellors name, age, and for∣tune.
• * 1.283

  A second conference with the Chancellor.
• * 1.284

  DECEM.
• * 1.285

  The King's Presents to the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.286

  The Am∣bassadors last treat∣ment at Court.
• * 1.287

  The Chan∣cellors Pre∣sent to the King.
• * 1.288

  The Am∣bassadors take leave of the King
• * 1.289

  The Musco∣vian Posla∣nick dis∣miss'd.
• * 1.290

  The Pre∣sents from some Per∣sian Lords to the Am∣bassadors.
• * 1.291

  Brugmans impru∣dence.
• * 1.292

  One of the Gentlemen of the reti∣••••e 〈◊〉〈◊〉 takes Sanctuàry
• * 1.293

  Brugmans insolence.
• * 1.294

  The King's patience.