The voyages and adventures of Fernand Mendez Pinto, a Portugal, during his travels for the space of one and twenty years in the Kingdoms of Ethiopia, China, Tartaria, Cauchinchina, Calaminham, Siam, Pegu, Japan, and a great part of the East-Indiaes with a relation and description of most of the places thereof, their religion, laws, riches, customs, and government in time of peace and war : where he five times suffered shipwrack, was sixteen times sold, and thirteen times made a slave / written originally by himself in the Portugal tongue and dedicated to the Majesty of Philip King of Spain ; done into English by H.C. Gent.

CHAP. XXXIV. The Order which is observed in the Feasts, that are made in certain Inns; and the State, which the Chaem of the two and thirty Vniversities keeps; with certain remarkable things in the City of Pequin. (Book 34)

THe first thing whereof mention is made in the Preface of that Book, which treats of Feasts, as I have said before, is the Feast, that is to be made unto God here upon earth, of which it is spoken in this manner: Every Feast, how sumptuous soever it be, may be paid for with a price, more or less, conformable to the bounty of him that makes it, who for all his charge be∣stowed on it reaps no other recompence, then the praise of flatterers and idle persons; where∣fore, O my Brother, saith the Preface of the said Book, I counsel thee to imploy thy goods in feasting of God in his poor, that is to say, secretly to supply the necessities of good folks, so that they may not perish for want of that which thou hast more then thou needest. Call to mind al∣so the vile matter wherewith thy father ingendred thee, and that too, which is far more ab∣ject, wherewith thy mother conceived thee, and so thou wilt see how much inferiour thou art, even to the bruit beasts, which without distinction of reason apply themselves to that where∣unto they are carried by the flesh; and seeing that in the quality of a man thou wilt invite thy friends, who possibly by to morrow may not be, to shew that thou art good and faithful, invite the poor creatures of God, of whose groans and necessities he like a pitiful Father taketh com∣passion, and promiseth to him that doth them good infinite satisfaction in the house of the Sun, where as an Article of faith we hold, that his servants shall abide for evermore in eternal happiness, After these words, and other such like, worthy to be observed, the Xipaton, who, as I told you, is the chief of them that govern this great Labyrinth, shews him all the Chapters of the Book, from one end to the other, and bids him look what manner of men, or Lords he will invite, what number of guests, and how many days he will have the feast to last; for ad∣deth he, the Kings, and Tutons, at the feasts that are made for them, have so many Messes of meat, so many Attendants, such Furniture, such Chambers, such vessel, such plate, such sports, and so many days of hawking, and hunting, all which amounts to such a sum of mony: Then if he will not bestow so much, the Xipaton shews him in another Chapter, the feasts which

are ordinarily made for the Chaems, Ayta••s, Ponchacis, Bracalons, Anchacis, Conchalaas, Lanteas, or for Captains, and rich men, whereas other kind of persons of meaner condition have nothing else to do, but to sit down, and fall to on free cost, so that there are usually fifty or threescore rooms full of men and women of all sorts; There are also in other rooms most excellent and melodious consorts of musick, namely of Harps, Viols, Lutes, Bando••es, Cor∣nets, Sackbuts, and other Instruments, which are not in use amongst us. If it be a feast of wo∣men, as it often falls out to be, then are the wayters on the table likewise women, or young D••mosels, richly attired, who for that they are maids, and endued with singular beauty, it hap∣pens many times that men of extraordinary quality fall in love with them, and do marry them. Now for a conclusion of that which I have to say of these Inns, of all the mony, which is spent upon such feasts, four in the hundred, whereof the Xipaton paies the one half, and they that make the feasts the other, is set apart for the entertainment of the table of the poor, whereunto for Gods sake all manner of people are admitted that will come to it; Moreover, they are al∣lowed a Chamber, and a good bed but that only for the space of three days, unless they be wo∣men with child, or sick persons, which are not able to travel; for in that case they are entertained a longer time, because regard is had unto the people according to the need they are in. We saw also in this outward inclosure, which, as I have delivered, invirons all the other City, two and thirty great Edifices, or Colledges, distant about a ••light shoot the one from the other, where such, as apply themselves to the study of the two and thirty Laws, which are professed in the two and thirty Kingdoms of this Empire, do recide. Now in each of these Colledges, accord∣ing as we could guess by the great number of persons that we saw there, there should be a∣bove ten thousand Scholers; and indeed the Aquesendoo, which is the Book that treats of these things, makes them amount in the whole to four hundred thousand: There is likewise somewhat apart from the rest, another far greater and fairer Edifice, of almost a league in circuit, where all those that have taken degrees, as well in their Theologie, as in the Laws of the government of this Monarchy, do live. In this University there is a Chaem, who com∣mands over all the Heads of the Colledges, and is called, by a title of eminent dignity, Xiley∣xitapou, that is to say, Lord of all the Nobles. This Chaem, for that he is more honourable, and of an higher quality then all the rest, keeps as great a Court as any Tuton; for he hath ordi∣narily a guard of three hundred Mogores, four and twenty Loshers that go with silver Maces before him, and six and thirty women, which mounted on white ambling Nags, trapped with silk and silver, ride playing on certain very harmonious instruments of musick, and singing to the tune thereof, make a pleasing Consort after their manner. There are also led before him twenty very handsome spare horses, without any other furniture then their clothes of silver tinsel, and with headstals full of little silver bells, every horse being waited on by six Halber∣diers, and four footmen very well apparelled; Before all this train goes four hundred Huppes, with a number of great long chains, which trailing on the ground, make such a dreadful ratling and noise, as does not a lit le terrifie all that are within hearing; Then next to them marches twelve men on horsback, called Peretandas, each of them carrying an Umbrello of carnation Sattin, and other twelve that follow them with banners of white damask, deeply indented, and edged about with golden frenge; Now after all this pomp comes the Chaem sitting in a triumphant Chariot, attended by threescore Conchalas, Chumbims, and Monteos, such as a∣mongst us are the Chancellors, Judges, and Councellors of the Courts of Justice, and these go all on foot, carrying upon their shoulders Cymiters rightly garnished with gold. Last of all fol∣low lesser officers, that are like unto our Registers, Examiners, Auditors, Clarks Atturneys, and Solicitors, all likewise on foot, and crying out unto the people with a loud voice for to retire themselves into their houses, and clear the streets, so as there may be nothing to hinder or trou∣ble the passage of this magnificnce. But the most observable thing herein is, that close to the Person of the Chaem, march two little boyes on horsback, one on the right hand, the other on the left, richly attired, with their ensignes in their hands, signifying Iustice, and Mercy, whereof I have spoken heretofore; That on the right side representing mercy, is clothed in white, and that on the left representing justice is apparelled in red; The horses whereon these little boyes are mounted, have on them foot-clothes of the same colour their garments are, and all their furniture and trappings are of gold, with a kind of net-work over them, made of silver thread; After each of these children march six young youths, about fifteen years of age, with silver Maces in their hands, so that all these things together are so remarkable, as there is no man that beholds them, but on the one side trembles for fear, and on the other side remains a∣stonished

at the sight of so much greatness, and majesty. Now that I may not longer dwel on that which concerns this great inclosure, I will pass over in silence many other marvels that we saw there, consisting in rich & fair buildings in magnificent Pagodes, in bridges placed upon great pillars of stone, on either side whereof are rayls or grates of iron finely wrought, and in high ways, that are straight, broad, and all very well paved, whereof I think fit not to speak, for by that which I have already said, one may easily judg of what I have omitted, in regard of the resem∣blance and conformity that is between them; wherefore I will only intreat, and that as suc∣cinctly as I can, of certain buildings, which I saw in this City, chiefly of four, that I observed more curiously then the rest, as also of some other particularities, that well deserve to be in∣sisted upon.

* 1.1This City of Pequin, whereof I have promised to speak more amply then yet I have done, is so prodigious, and the things therein remarkable, as I do almost repent me for undertaking to discourse of it, because to speak the truth, I know not where to begin, that I may be as good as my word; for one must not imagine it to be, either as the City of Rome, or Constantinople, or Venice, or Paris, or London, or Sevill, or Lisbon, or that any of the Cities of Europe are comparable unto it, how famous or populous soever they be: Nay I will say further, that one must not think it to be like to Grand Cairo in Egypt, Tauris in Persia, Amadaba in Cam∣baya, Bisnagar in Narsingua, Goura in Bengala, Ava in Chaleu, Timplan in Calaminhan, Martaban and Bagou in Pegu, Guimpel and Tinlau in Siammon, Odia in the Kingdom of Sornau, Passarvan and Dema in the Island of Iaoa, Pangor in the Country of the Lequiens, Vsangea in the Grand Cauchin, Lancama in Tartaria, and Meaco in Iappun, all which Ci∣ties are the Capitals of many great Kingdoms; for I dare well affirm, that all those same are not to be compared to the least part of the wonderful City of Pequin, much less to the great∣ness and magnificence of that which is most excellent in it, whereby I understand her stately buildings, her inward riches, her excessive abundance of all that is necessary for the entertain∣ing of life, also the world of people, the infinite number of Barques and Vessels that are there, the Commerce, the Courts of Justice, the Government and the State of the Tutons, Chaems, Anchacys, Aytaos, Puchancys, and Bracanons, who rule whole Kingdoms, and very spacious Provinces, with great pentions, and are ordinarily resident in this City, or others for them, when as by the Kings command they are sent about affairs of consequence. But setting these things aside, whereof yet I intend to speak more amply, when time shall serve, I say that this City, (according to that which is written of it, both in the Aquesendoo before mentioned, and all the Chronicles of the Kingdom of China) is thirty leagues in circuit, not comprehending there∣in the buildings of the other inclosure that is without it, and is invironed with a double wall, made of good strong free-stone, having three hundred and threescore gates, each of which hath a small For••, composed of two high towers, with its ditches, and draw-bridges; and at every gate is a Register, & four Porters with halberds in their hands, who are bound to give account of all that goes in and out. These gates by the Ordinance of the Tuton, are divided according to the three hundred and threescore dayes of the year, so that every day in his turn hath the feast of the invocation of the Idol, whereof each gate bears the name, celebrated with much solem∣nity. This great City hath also within that large inclosure of her walls, as the Chineses assu∣red us, three thousand and three hundred Pagodes or Temples, wherein are continually sacrifi∣ced a great number of birds and wild beasts, which they hold to be more agreeable unto God, then such as are kept tame in houses, whereof their Priests render divers reasons to the people, therewith perswading them to believe so great an abuse for an article of faith. The structures of these Pagodes, whereof I speak, are very sumptuous, especially those of the orders of the Me∣negrepos, Conquiays, and Talagrepos, who are the Priests of the four Sects of Xaca, Amida, Gizom, and Canom, which surpass in antipuity the other two and thirty of that Labyrinth of the Divel, who appears to them many times in divers forms, for to make them give more cre∣dit to his impostures and lies. The principal streets of this City are all very long and broad, with fair houses of two or three stories high, and inclosed at both ends with ballisters of iron and lattin; the entrance into them is through lanes, that cross these great streets, at the ends where∣of are great arches, with strong gates, which are shut in the night, and on the top of the arches, there are watch-bels; Each of these streets hath its Captain, and officers, who walk the round in their turns, and are bound every ten dayes to make report into the Town-house of all that passeth in their quarters, to the end that the Punchacys, or Chaems of the Govern∣ment, may take such order therein, as reason requires. Moreover this great City (if credit may

be given to that which the said book, so often before mentioned by me, records) hath an hun∣dred and twenty Canals, made by the Kings and people in former times, which are three fa∣thom deep, and twelve broad, crossing through the whole length and bredth of the City, by the means of a great number of bridges, built upon arches of strong free-stone, at the end where∣of there are pillars, with chains, that reach from the one to the other, and resting places for passengers to repose themselves in: It is said that the bridges of these hundred & twenty Canals, or Aqueducts, are in number eighteen hundred, and that if one of them is fair and rich, the other is yet more, as well for the fashion, as for the rest of the workmanship thereof. The said Book affirms, That in this City there are sixscore Piatzues, or publique places, in each of the which is a Fair kept every month. Now during the two months time that we were at liberty in this City, we saw eleven or twelve of these Fairs, where were an infinite company of people, both on hors-back, and on foot, that out of boxes hanging about their necks sold all things that well neer can be named, as the Haberdashers of small wares do amongst us, besides the ordinary shops of rich Merchants, which were ranged very orderly in the particular streets, where was to be seen a world of silk stuffs, tinsels, cloth of gold, linnen, and cotton-cloth, sables, ermyns, musk, aloes, fine pourcelain, gold and silver plate, pearl, seed pearl, gold in powder, and lingots, and such other things of value, whereat we nine Portugals were exceedingly astonished; But if I should speak in particular of all the other commodities, that were to be sold there, as of iron, steel, lead, copper, tin, latin, corral, cornalin, crystal, quicksilver, vermillion, ivory, cloves, nut∣megs, mace, ginger, tamarinds, cinnamon, pepper, cardamone, borax, hony, wax, sanders, sugar, conserves, acates, fruit, meal, rice, flesh, venison, fish, pulse, and herbs; there was such abundance of them, as it is scarce possible to express it in words. The Chineses also assured us, that this City hath an hundred and threescore Butchers shambles, and in each of them an hun∣dred stalls, full of all kinds of flesh that the earth produceth, for that these people feed on all, as Veal, Mutton, Pork, Goat, the flesh of Horses, Buffles, Rhinocerets, Tygers, Lions, Dogs, Mules, Asses, Otters, Shamois, Bodgers, and finally of all other beasts whatsoever. Further∣more, besides the weights which are particularly in every shambles, there is not a gate in the City that hath not its scales, wherein the meat is weighed again, for to see if they have their due weight that have bought it, to the end that by this means the people may not be deceived. Be∣sides those ordinary Shambles, there is not scarce a street but hath five or six Butchers shops in it, where the choicest meat is sold; there are withall many Taverns, where excellent fare is al∣wayes to be had, and cellers full of gammons of bacon, dried tongues, poudered geese, and other savoury viands, for to relish ones drink, all in so great abundance, that it would be very superfluous to say more of it; but what I speak is to shew how liberally God hath imparted to these miserable blinded wretches the good things which he hath created on the earth, to the end that his holy Name may therefore be blessed for evermore.

Notes

• * 1.1

  §. 2.