The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.

THE VOYAGE OF ITALY. (Book 1)

BEFORE I come to a particular description of Italy, as I found it in my Fiue seueral voyages through it, I think it not amisse to speak some∣thing in General, of the Country it self, its Inhabitants, their Humours, Manners, Customes, Riches, and Religion.

For the Country it self, it seemed to me to be Natures Darling,* 1.1 and the Eldest Sister of all other countryes; carrying away from them, all the greatest blessings and fauours; and receiuing such gracious lookes from the Sun and Heauen, that if there be any fault in Italy, it is that her Mother Nature hath

cockered her too much, euen to make her become Wanton. Witnesse luxu∣riant Lombardy, and Campania antonomastically Foelix, which Flo∣rus, Trogus, and Liuy think to be the best parts of the world, where Ceres and Bacchus are at a perpetual strife, whether of them shall court man the most, she by filling his barnes with corne; he by making his cellars swimme with wine: Whiles the other parts of Italy are sweating out whole Forests of Oliue-trees, whole woods of Lemmons, and Oranges, whole fields of Rice, Turky wheat, and Muskmillions; and where those Bare Hills, which seem to be shauen by the Sun, and cursed by Nature for their barren̄es, are oftentimes great with child of pretious Marbles, the ornaments of Churches and Palaces, and the Reuenews of Princes: witnesse the Prince of Massa: whose best Reuenues are his Marble Quarries: Nature here thinking it a farre more noble thing to feed Princes, Then to feed sheep. It abounds allso in silks and silkwormes; out of which they draw

a notable profit; and for the feeding of them they keep a world of Mul∣berry trees whose leaues are the food of those little wormes, whose ex∣crement is our pride; thus, Adam like, we are clade in leaues againe, but leaues once remoued. Its rich allso in pasturage and cattle, espe∣cially in Lombardy, where I haue seen cheeses of an excessiue greatnesse, and of a Parmesan goodnesse. The surface allso of the earth is couered with many curious simples, ād whole∣some hearbs: Hense so many rare essences, cordials, parfumes, sweet waters, and other odoriferous dis∣tillations so common here, that ordinary Barbers, and Landresses will spinkle them in your face and parfume your linnen with them, ouer and aboue your bargain. Hence none of the meanest things to be seen in Italy, are the fondaries or stilling hou∣ses of the Great Duke of Florence, the speciarie or Apothecaries ••hops, of the Dominicans of S. Marco, and of the Augustins of S. Spirito in Florence; of the Roman Colledge, and of the Minimes of

Trinita di Monte in Rome: where euen death it felf would find a cure in nature, if it were not a curse from the author of nature. In fine, it excells in all kind of prouisions, either for dyet, or sport; and I haue seen in Rome whole cartloads of wild boares, and Venison, brought in at once to be sold in the market; and aboue threescore Hares in Flo∣rence brought in, in one day by the two companyes of Hunters, the Piaceuoli and Piatelli, on a general hunting day.

* 1.2Yet after all this, some cryout against Italy, for being too hot; and paint vs out its ayre as an vnwholesome pestilential ayre; its sun, as an angry Comet, whose beames are all pointed with plagues and feauers; and the country it self, as a place, where staruing is the onely way to liue in health; where men eat by method and art; where you must carry your body steddily, or els spill your life; and where there are so many prouincial sicknesses and diseases; as the catarres of Ge∣nua,

the Goute of Milan, the He∣morrhoids of Venice, the falling sicknesse of Florence, the Feauers of Rome, and the Goistre of Pied∣mont.

For my part, when I am told that there were in Plynies time,* 1.3 fourteen millions of men in Italy:* 1.4 when I read, that there are now aboue three thousand Cittyes in Italy, and most of them Cittyes of Garbo: when I meet with national diseases in euery other country, as the Kingseuil in Spayne, the Poxe in France, the consump∣tion in Portugal, the cholick in Eng∣land, the dessentery in Gascony, the headacke in Tolouse &c. when I reflect, how this Sun hath blessed Lombardy, and made Campania Happy: when I call to mind, that it hath filled the Cellars of Italy with aboue Thirty seueral forts of wines: when I remember, what health it hath powred into seueral hearbs here, what admirable fruits it furnisheth the markets with all, what ornaments it affords to Gods houses, ouercrust∣ting

allmost all the cheif Churches of Italy,* 1.5 with exquisit marbles; when I consider in fine, how this Sun hath helpt to make so many braue Soldiers, and Schollers, I dare not speak ill of the Sun, or ayre of Italy, least Balzac check mee, as Gracchus did him who spoke ill of his mother, with a Tu Matri meae maledicis,* 1.6 quae Tiberium Grac∣chum genuit? Darest thou speak ill of that Sun which helpt to make Caesar?

* 1.7Yes, yes, its this great blessing of God, warme Sun, which hath so throughly baked the Italian wits, that while (according to the obser∣uation of Charles the V) the French appeare not wise, but are wise: the spa∣niards appeare wise, but are not wise: the Dutch neither appeare wise, nor are wise; The Italians onely both ap∣peare wise, and are wise. Hence the Italians anciently afforded vs those prodigies of wit and learning, and set vs those fair coppies in liberal arts and sciences, which all men follow, but none attain vnto so

much, as those that write the Italian hand; that is, the moderne Ita∣lians themselues.

For if the Italians anciently had their Virgil, their Ouid,* 1.8 their Ho∣race, their Persius, and Propertius in Poëtry; the moderne Italians spurr close vp to them, and haue their Taso, their Petrarck, their Sannazarius, their Marino, and Guarini.

If the old Italians had their Salust,* 1.9 Liuy, Tacitus, and Valerius Maximus in history; the moderne Jtalians haue their Guicciardin, Bentiu••∣glio, Dauila, Strada, and Baptista Fregosus, surnamed the second Va∣lerius Maximus.

If the ancient Italians had their pompous Orators, their Cicero,* 1.10 Hor∣tensius, Porcius Latro, Iunius Gallio, Aulius Fuscus &c. The moderne Italians haue their Panigarola, Manzini, Varchi, and Loredano.

If the ancient Italians had their Vast knowing Varro;* 1.11 the moderne Italians haue their omniscious Ba∣ronius, who red allmost all that o∣ther men had written, and wrot

more allmost, then other men can read.

* 1.12If the ancient Italians had their Diuines, writing of the Number and Nature of their Gods, to wit, Varro and Tully; the moderne Italians haue their Diuines too, their in∣imitable S. Thomas of Aquin, and his learned second Cardinal Caïetan.

* 1.13If the ancient Italians had their Philosophers, their Pliny, their Cato, their Seneca &c. the moderne Jtalians haue their Ficinus, their Cardan, and their Picus Mirandula.

* 1.14If the ancient Italians had their rare Architects, Statuaries, Paint∣ers; the moderne Jtalians haue their Brunelleschi, Palladio, Fonta∣na, and Cronaco, in Architecture; their Bandinelli, Donatello, Oli••••ri••, and Bernini in Sculpture;* 1.15 their Raphael, Michel Angelo, Titian, and Sarto, in painting.* 1.16

If in fine, the ancient Italians had their braue Captains, their Scipio,* 1.17 Duilius, Marius, and Cesar, the moderne Italians haue their Scipio too, towit, their Alexander Farnese, whose true actions make

Romances blush, hauing done that really, which Fables can scarce faigne in galantry: Their Duilius too, towit, their Andrea Doria, the Neptune of the Ligurian Seas, who alone taught his country not to serue: Their Marius also, towit, their braue Castruccio, who from a Comman soldier mounted vp by deserts to the highest military com∣mands in the Emperors army; and so stitched his fortune as he went along to honours, that it neuer raueled out againe, or failed him: In fine, their Caesar too, towit, the Marquis Spinola, or rather, the Achilles of Jtaly, who tooke that Troy, of Ostende, after three years Seige. This Seige was farre more famous then that of Troy, because farre truer. For in the Seige of Troy, it was Poëtry onely that made the warre, that framed and filled the woodden horse with worthyes;* 1.18 that draged Hector round about the walls. It was pen and inck that killed so many men somno vin••que sepultos; and Troy was easily burnt, because it was built of Poëts Paper.

But at Osten all was reall, and all Europe allmost, who had their forces, or eyes there, were witnesses of it; and all this done by Spinola an Jtalian.

* 1.19As for the Jtalian humour, it is a midling humour, between too much grauity of the spaniard, and too great leuity of the French. Their grauity is notwithout some fire, nor their leuity without some fleame. They are apish enough in Carneual time, and vpon their stages, as long as the visard is on; but that once off, they are too wise to play the fooles in their owne names, and owne it with their owne faces. They haue strong fancies, and yet solid iudgements; A happy tem∣per, which makes them great Prea∣chers, Politicians, and Ingeniers; but withall they are a little too melancholy and gealous; They are great louers of their brethren and neare kinred, as the first freinds they are acquinted withall by nature; and if any of them lye in passe and fair for aduance∣ment, all the rest of his relations will lend him their purses, as well

as their shoulders, to help him vp, though he be but their younger brother. They are sparing in dyet, both for to liue in health, and to liue hansomly: making their bellyes contribute to the mainte∣nance of their backs, and their kitchen help to the keeping of their stable. They are ambitious still of honours, remembering they are the successors of the masters of the world, the old Romans; and to put the world still in mind of it, they take to themselues the glori∣ous names of Camillo, Scipione, Julio, Mario, Pompeo &c. They are as sensible allso of their honour, as desirous of honours; and this makes them strickt to their wifes euen to gelousy, knowing that for one Cornelius Tacitus, there haue been ten Publij Cornelij; and that Lucius Cornificius is the most affront∣ing man. They are hard to be pleas∣ed, when thy haue been once read hoat with offence; but they will not meet reuenge in the face, and feild; and they will rather hire it, then take it. In fine they affect very

much compounded names, as Pi••∣colomini, Capilupo, Bentiuoglio, Malespina, Boncompagno, Maluez∣zi, Riccobono, Malatesta, Ho∣modei, and such like marryed Names.

* 1.20As for their Manners, they are most commendable. They haue taught them in their bookes, they practise them in their actions,* 1.21 and they haue spred them abroad ouer all Europe, which owes its Ciuility vnto the Jtalians, as well as its Religion. They neuer affront strangers in what habit so∣euer they appeare; and if the strange∣nesse of the habit draw the Jtalians, eye to it, yet he will neuer draw in his mouth to laugh at it. As for their apparel, or dresse, its com∣monly black, and modest. They value no brauery but that of Coache and horses and Staffiers; and they sacri∣fize a world of little satisfactions to that main one of being able to keep a Coache. Their Points de Venice, ribans and goldlace, are all turned into horses and liueries; and that money which we spend in treats and

Tauernes, they spend in coache and furniture. They neuer whisper pri∣uately with one another in company, not speak to one another alowd in an vnknowne tongue when thy are in conuersation with others, thinking this to be no other then a lowd whispering.

They are precise in point of Ce∣remony and reception;* 1.22 and are not puzzeled at all, when they heare a great man is comeing to visit them. Theres not a man of them, but he knowes how to entertain men of all conditions; that is, how farre to meet, how to place them, how to stile and treat them, how to reconduct them, and how farr. They are good for Nunciatures, Embassies, and State employments, being men of good be∣hauiour, lookes, temper, and dis∣cretion, and neuer outrunning their businesse. They are great louers of Musick, Meddales, Statues, and Pic∣tures, as things which either di∣uert their melancholy, or humor it: and I haue read of one Jacomo Raynero a shoomaker of Bolognia, who gathered together so many curious

Meddals of Gold, siluer, and brasse, as would haue becomne the Cabinet of any Prince. In fine, they are extreamely ciuil to one another, not onely out of an awe they stand in one towards another, not knowing whose turne it may be next, to come to the highest honours; but allso out of a natural grauity, and ciuil education, which makes euen schoolboyes (an insolent Nation any where else) most respectfull to one another in words and deeds; treat∣ing one another with Vostra Signoria, and abstaining from all gioco di mano. Nay masters themselues here, neuer beat their seruant, but remitt them to justice, if the fault require it, and I cannot remember to haue heard in Rome, two women scold publickly, or man and wife quarrel in words, except once; and then they did it so priuatly and secretly, and scolded in such a low tone, that I perceiued the Italians had reason about them euen in the middst of their choler.

* 1.23As for their particular customes, they are many. They marry by their

eares, oftener then by their eyes; and scarce speake with one another, till they meete before the Parish Priest, to speake the indissoluable words of wedlock. They make chil∣dren go barehead till they be four or fiue years old, hardening them thus against rhumes and catarres when they shall be old. Hence few peo∣ple in Italy go so warme on their heads, as they do in France; men in their houses wearing nothing vpon their heads but a little calotte; and women for the most part, going all barehead in the midst of winter it self. Women here also wash their heads weekly in a wash made for the nonce, and dry them againe in the Sun, to make their hair yel∣low, a colour much in vogue here among Ladyes. The men throw of their hats, cuffs, and bandes, as well as their cloaks, at their returne home from visits, or businesse, and put on a gray coate, without which they cannot dine, or supp; and I haue been inuited to dinner by an Italian, who before dinner, made his men take of our hats and cloaks,

and present euery one of vs (and we were fiue in all) with a coloured coate, and a little cap to dine in. At dinner they serue in the best meats first, and eat backwards▪ that is, they beginn with the second course, and end with boyld meat and pottage. They neuer present you with salt, or braines of any fowle, least they may seeme to reproach vnto you want of wit. They bring you drink vpon a Sottocoppa of syluer, with three or four glasses vpon it; Two or three of which are strait neckt glasses (called there caraffas) full of seueral sorts of wines or water, and one empty drinking glasse, into which you may powre what quantity of wine and water you please to drink, and not stand to the discretion of the waiters, as they do in other coun∣trys. At great feasts, no man cuts for himself, but seueral caruers cut-vp all the meat at a side table, and giue it to the waiters to be carry∣ed to the ghests; and euery one hath the very same part of meat carryed vnto him, to wit, a wing

and a legg of wild fowle &c. least any one take exceptions that others were better vsed then hee. The Caruers neuer touch the meat with their hands, but onely with their knife and forke, and great Syluer spoone for the sauce. Euery man here eats with his forke and knife, and neuer touch∣eth any thing with his fingers, but his bread: This keeps the linnen neat, and the fingers sweet. If you drink to an Italian, he thanks you, with bending, when you salute him, and lets you drink quietly, without watching (as we do in England) to thank you againe when you haue drunk: and the first time he drinks after that, will be to you, in requitall of your former courtesy.

They count not the houres of the day as we do, from twelue to twelue; but they beginn their count from sunset, and the first houre after sunset, is one a clock; and so they count on till four and Twenty, that is, till the next sunset againe. I haue often dined at sixteen a clock, and gone abroad in the euening, to take

the ayre, at two and twenty. They call men much by their Christen names, Signor Pietro, Signor Fran∣cesco, Signor Jacomo &c. and you may liue whole years with an Ita∣lian,* 1.24 and be very well acquinted with him without knowing him, that is, without knowing his distin∣tiue surname. People of quality ne∣uer visit one another, but they send first, to know when they may do it without troubleing him they intend to visit: by this meanes they neuer rush into one anothers chambers without knocking, as they do in France; nor crosse the designes, or business of him they visit, as they do in England with tedious dry vi∣sits; nor find one another either vndressed in clothes, vnprouided in compliments and discourse, or with∣out their attendants, and traine about them. In the streets men and women of condition seldome or neuer go together in the same coache, except they be strangers, that is, of an other towne, or country: nay husbands and wifes are Seldome seen together in the same coache, because all men

do not know them to be so. In the streets, when two persons of great quality meet, as two Embassadors, or two Cardinales, they both stop their coaches, and compliment one another ciuily, and then retire; but still he that is inferiour must let the others coache moue first. If any man being a foot in the street, meet a great man, either in coache, or a foot, he must not salute him in going on his way, as we do in England and France, without stopping; but he must stand still whiles the other passeth, and bend respectfully to him as he goes by, and then continue his march. In fine, of all the Na∣tions I haue seen, I know none that liues, clothes, eats, drinks, and speaks so much with reason, as the Italians do.

As for their Riches,* 1.25 they must needs be great. That which is visi∣ble in their magnificent Pallaces, Churches, Monasteries, Gardens, Fountains, and rich furnished Roo∣mes, speaks that to be great which is in their coffers: and that which the King of spayne drawes visibly

from Naples euery yeare, shews what the other parts of Italy could do for a need, if they were put to it by necessity. Nay, I am of opinion, that the very Sacristy of Loreto, the Gallery of the Duke of Florence, and the Treasory of Venice, would vpon an emergent occasion of a Gothick, or Turkish inuasion, be able to main∣tain an army for fiue yeares space; and the Plate in Churches and Mo∣nasteryes, would be able to do as much more, if the owners of it were sound∣ly frighted with a new Gothick irrup∣tion. As for the Riches of particular Princes in Italy, I will speak of them, as I view their Stats here below.

In fine, as for their Religion, its purely that which other countrys call by its true name,* 1.26 Catholick; and which in England they com∣monly call, the Religion of the Papists. And though there they think to nickname the Catholick by calling him Papist, yet the well in∣structed Catholick knowing that the name of Papist, comes not from any Sectmaster, as Caluinist, Lutheran, Socinian, and Brownist doe; nor from

any Sectary meeting place, as Hugo∣nots from the Gate of Hugo in Towers in France, neare vnto which they mett priuately at first to teach and dogmatise: nor from any pub∣lick sectary action, as Anabaptists, Dippers, Quakers &c. do: but from the word Papa, which signifies Father, and is not the name of any one man, or Pope, but onely signifies his Fatherly office of Pastor; tho Catholick I say, is no more troubled at this name of Papist, then he was when hee was called in the late troubles, Royallist (for adhearing to the king, which is not the name of any of our kings,* 1.27 but his office onely) and not Crom∣wellist, which was the name of one adhearing to a particular man called Cromwell, and an vnlawfull vsurper of Power. As for the true name in∣deed, which is Catholick, it is so knowne to belong to those of the Roman Church, that besides that all those of that Church haue euer called themselues by no other name then this of Catholick, the wisest of Protestants also ac∣knowledge

it publikely to be their distinctiue name: witnesse that so∣lemne meeting at Munster, some yeares ago, about the General Peace of Christendome, where the Publick Jnstrument of that Peace sheweth plainly how that the Protestant Plenipotentiaries (the wisest men of that Religion) treated with the Pa∣pists, as some call them, vnder the name of Catholicks: and though in many other titles and denominati∣ons, they were very wary and scru∣pulous, euen to the long suspension of the Peace, yet they willingly con∣cluded, subscribed, and signed that Peace made with them, vnder the name of Catholicks. I say this onely, for to make men vnderstand, what the true name of the Religion prac∣tised ouer all Jtaly is, to-wit, Ca∣tholick.

Haueing sayd thus much of Italy in Generall, I will now come to a particular Description of it, accord∣ing to the ocular obseruations I made of it in fiue seueral Voyages through it. In which Description if I be a little prolixe, it is because I rid not

Poste through Italy, when I saw it; nor will I write poste through it in describing it; being assured, that Epitomees in Geography are as dissa∣tisfactory, as Laconick Letters would be in state Relations; and that the great Atlas, in nine great volumes in folio, is not onely Atlas Maior, but also Atlas Melior.

The seueral wayes by which a man may go into Italy.

THE ordinary wayes which an Englishman may take in going into Italy, are fiue: [ 1] to wit, either through Flanders and Germany; and so to fall in at Trent, or Treuiso, and so to Venice. [ 2] Or els by France, and so to Marseilles, and thence to Ge∣nua by Sea. [ 3] Or els by land from Lyons through Swisserland, the Gri∣s••ns country, and the Valteline, and so pop vp at Brescia. [ 4] Or els from Lyons againe through the Valesians country, ouer Mount Sampion, the Lake Maior, and so to Milan. [ 5] Or els in fine, from Lyons still, ouer Mount Cenis, and so to Turin, the

nearest Posteway. I haue gone, or come, all these wayes in my fiue voyages into Italy, and though I preferre the last for speed and con∣ueniency; yet I will describe the others too, that my yong Traueler may know how to streere his course, either in time of plague or warre.

My first Voyage into Italy.

MY first voyage was through Flanders and Germany, and so to Trent. The way is, from England, to Dunkerque; from thence to Furne, Newport, Ostend, Bruges, Gant, Brussels, Louain, Liege, Colen, Mayence, Francfort, and so crossing to Munichen, the Court of the Duke of Bauaria, and from thence to Ausburg, and Inspruck, you come soone to Trent, which stands vpon the confines of Germany, and lets you into Italy, by Treuiso belonging to the Venetians. To describe all these foresayd places would take me too much time from my designe of describing Italy, and therefore I

content my self onely to haue named them.

My second Voyage.

MY second Voyage was by the way of France, where I started from Paris, and made towards Ly∣ons; in the way I tooke notice of these places.

Yssone a neat house belonging then to Monsieur Essolin.* 1.28 The house is so pritty, that I think it worth the trauelers seeing, and my describ∣ing. It stands in the shade of a thick groue of trees, and is wholly built and furnished al' Italiana. Vn∣der the side of the house runns a little brooke, which being receiued into a Basin of freestone, iust as long as the house, and made like a ship, (that is, sharp at both ends and wide in the middle) it is clouen, and diuided in two, by the sharp end of this ship, and conueighed in close channels of freestone, on both sides of the ship or basin, into which it emptyes it self by seueral tunnels, or pipes: so that all this water

spouting into the open ship on both sides, by four and twenty tunnels, makes vnder the windowes of the house such a perpetual purleing of water, (like many fountains) that the gentle noise is able to make the most iealous man sleep profundly. At the other end of the house this water yssueth out of the other end of the sayd ship, and is courteously intreated by seueral hidden pipes of lead, to walke into the house, in∣stead of running by so fast: Which it doth, and is presently led into the Cellars, and Buttery; and not onely into these, but also into the kitchen, stables, chambers, and bathing roome, all which it furnisheth with water either for necessity, or pleasure. Then being led into the curiours garden, its mett there by a world of little open channels of freestone built like knots of flowers; all which it fills brimfull, and makes euen Flowers of water. Then running vp and downe here and there among the fragrant delights of this garden, as if it had forgotten its

errand to the Sea, it seems to be so taken with those sweet beds of flowers, and so desirous of resting vpon them, after so many miles run∣ing, that i•• offers to turne it self into any posture, rather then be turned out of this sweet place.

From Yssonne I came to Fontainbel∣leau,* 1.29 where I saw that Kingly house, the Nonesuch of France. It stands in the midst of a great Forrest full of Royal game, and was the place of delight of Henry the Fourth. The house is capable of lodgeing four kings with their seueral Courts. The Court of the Cheual blanc is a noble squaire of building;* 1.30 but the lowness of the buildings and lodgeings shews, they are for the lower Sort of peo∣ple, and the seruant-lodgings to the Royal appartiments. The Oual Court is a good old building.* 1.31 The Kings and Queens lodgings with their Ca∣binets groane vnder their rich guilt roofes. The Gallery of staggs heads is a stately roome,* 1.32 then which nothing can be more Caualierly furnished; except such an other gallery hung with Turkish standards wonne in

warre. The other long Galleries of Romances and Fables,* 1.33 painted by Simon Voyët and other, are much esteemed: the onely pitty is, that such true painting should not haue been employed vpon true histories. The Salle of the Conference,* 1.34 is a stately Roome, where the Bishop of Eureux (afterwards called the Cardinal du Perron) in presence of king Henry the Fourth,* 1.35 the Chanceler, fiue Iud∣ges of both Religions, and the whole Roome full of learned men, so con∣futed Monsieur Plessis Mornay, the Achilles of those of Charenton, that after the first dayes Conference, he durst neuer enter the list againe, as he promised; but dyed soone after fuller of shame, then yeares. The Hall for maskes, and the Lodgings of Madame Gabrielle with her pic∣ture ouer the Chimney like a Diana hunting,* 1.36 are fine Roomes: yet the fair picture cannot hinder men from blameing her foule life; nor from censureing that solaecisme of the pain∣ter, who made chaste Diana looke like Madame Gabrielle.* 1.37 There are also here two Chappels, the old,

and the new. The old one is a poore thing; and seems to haue been built for hunters: but the new one is both neat and stately, and built vpon this occasion, as a Bishop in France told me. A spanish Embassador resideing in Paris in Henry the IV. his time, went one day from Paris to Fontainbleau, to see this French Escurial. Arriueing, he lighted after his countryes fashion, at the Chappel doore (the old Chappel) and entring in, to thank God for his saif arriual, he wondered to see so poore and dark a chappel, and asking with indignation whether this were the Casa di Dios? The house of God? he turned presently a way with scorne, Saying, No quiero Veer mas; I care for seeing no more: not staying to see that place, where the king had so a fine a house, and God so poore a Chappel. This being told the last king Lewis the XIII. he commanded forth with the new Chappel to be built in that sumptuous posture we now see it.

Going out of the house, you finde a hansome Mail, and Rare Ponds of water, which euen baptize

this place with the name of Fontain∣belleau. In these Ponds, as also in the moat about the house, are conserued excellent Carps;* 1.38 some whereof were sayd to be a hundred years old: which though we were not bound to beleeue; yet their very white scales, and dull moueing vp and downe, might make men beleeue that there are gray scales, as well as gray haires; and decayed fishes, as well as decrepit men: especially when Columella speaks of a fish of his acquaintance,* 1.39 in Caesars fish ponds neare Pausilipus, which had liued threescore years; and Gesnerus re∣lates, that in a fishpond neare Hayl∣prum in Suabe, a fish was catched anno 1497, with a brasse ring at his gills, in which were engrauen these words: I am the first fish which Federic the second, Gouernour of the world put into this Pond the 5 of Octo∣ber 1203. By which it appears, that this fish had liued two hundred and sixty odd yeares. But to returne againe to our Carps of Fontainbel∣leau, its an ordinary diuertissement here to throw a halfpenny loaf into

the moat among the Carps, and to see how they will mumble and ium∣ble it to and fro; how others will puff and snuff and take it ill, not to haue part of it; and how in fine, they will plainly fall to blowes, and fight for it. You would wonder, how such hoat passions should be found in cold water: but euery thing that liues, will fight for that which makes it liue, its Vittails.

Hauing seen Fontainbelleau,* 1.40 I saw on extraordinary thing in the rest of the way to Lyons, but an old Inscrip∣tion in letters of gold, vpon a wood∣den Fabrick, a mile before I came to Montargis, importing, that the English being encamped here, had been forced to rayse their Seige be∣fore Montargis, by reason of great raynes and suddain inundations. Some of the French historians will haue it, that it was the Count de Dunois, that forced the English to rayse the Seige here: but I had rather beleeue publick inscriptions, then priuate flattery: and it was more honourable for the English to be ouercome by God, then by men.

* 1.41From hence I passed through Montargis, a neat pleasant towne; in the great Hall of whose Castle, is painted the history of the dog that fought a Duel with the Murderer of his Master; and it is not strange that the Dog, that had put on huma∣nity, ouercame him that had put it of, to espouse the deuouring humour of a Dog. This is the chief towne of the Gastinois.

* 1.42From hence I went to Briare where I saw the cut channel that ioynes Loire and Sene together in trafick,* 1.43 whose bedds oftherwise stand wide from one another in situation.

From thence to Cosne, la Cha∣rité, Pougues famous for whole∣some stincking waters; Neuers, fa∣mous for glasse houses; Moulins, famous for kniues and Cizars: la Palisse where they make excellent winter bootes: Roanne where Loire beginns to be nauigable: and so ouer Terrara hills to Lyons.

Lyons is one of the greatest and richest townes in France. It stands vpon the riuers Saone,* 1.44 and Rhosne, (Araris and Rhodanus) and inter∣cepting

all the merchandize of Bur∣gondy, Germany, and Italy, It licks its fingers notably, and thriues by it. It expresseth this in its looks: for here you haue hansome people, noble houses, great jollity, frequent balls, and much brauery: all markes of a good towne: and could it but in∣tercept either the Parlament of Aix, or Grenoble, it would be as noble as its name, or as its Catedral Chapter,* 1.45 whose Deane and Prebends are all counts, and noble of four descents▪ they got the title of counts thus: A great con∣test arriseing between the Chapter of S. Iohns Church, and the Count de Forests called Guigo, for some rights ouer the towne of Lyons which they both pretended to; at last anno 1166. they came to an agree∣ment, vpon this condition, that the Count should leaue to the Chapter his County of Forests; which he did; and so euer since the Decane and Prebends haue been called Counts of S. Iohn.

The cheif things to be seen in Lyons are these.

1. The great Church, or Cathe∣dral,

called Iohns Church.* 1.46 Its the Seat of an Archbishop, who is Pri∣mat of Gaule. S. Irenaeus was a great ornament of this Church, as was also Eucherius. Vpon solemne dayes the Canons officiate in Miters like Bishops. They sing here all the office by heart, and without booke, as also without pricksong musick, organs, or other instrumens, vse∣ing onely the ancient plainsong. The High Altar is like those of Italy, that is, open on all sides, with a Crucifixe and two little candle∣stiks vpon it. I neuer saw any hangings in this Church, not vpon the greatest dayes, but Venerable old walls. The clock here is much cryed vp for a rare peice.

* 1.472. The stately new Towne house, of pure white freestone, able to matche that of Amsterdam; and indeed they seemed to me to be twinns; for I saw them both in the same yeare as they were in building. The curious stair∣case, and Hall aboue, are the things most worthy taking notice of, the owne for its contriuanc; the other

for its painting.

3.* 1.48 The Jesuits Colledge and fair Library. 4. The Carthusians Mo∣nastery vpon a high Hill. 5. The Minimes Sachristy well painted. 6. The rests of the old Aqueduct vpon the Hill. 7. The Mail, and the sweet place of Belle Cour. 8. The Heart of saint Francis de Sales in the Church of the Visitation in Belle Cour. 9. The Charité where all the poore are kept at worke with admirable oeconomy: It looks like a little towne, haueing in it nine courts, all built up with lodge∣ings for the poore, who are about fifteen hundred, and diuided into seueral Classes, with their seueral Refectories and Chappels. 10. The Head of S. Bonauenture in the Cordeliers Church. 11. The Castle of Pierre Ancise, built vpon a rock. 12. Nostre Dame de Fouruier stand∣ing vpon a high hill, from whence you haue a perfect view of Lyons.

13.* 1.49 Lastly the rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier a most ingenious gentleman; where I saw most rare experiments in Mathematiks and

Mechanicks; all made by his owne hand: as the sympatheticall balls, one springing vp at the approach of the other held vp a pretty distance off: the demonstration of a quick way how to passe an army ouer a riuer with one boat, and a woodden bridge easily to be foulded vp vpon one cart: the mouse dyall, where a little thing, like a mouse, by her insensible motion, markes the houres of the day. The Lizard Dyal is much like the former, onely the mouse moues vpon a plain frame of wood which hath the houres mar∣ked on it; and the Lizard creeps vpward from houre to houre. The night dyall, shewing by a lighted lamp set behinde it, the houres of the night, which are painted in colours vpon oyled Paper, and turne about as the time goes. The Tortoise dyall, where a peice of cork cut like a Tortoise, being put into a puter dish of water, which hath the twelue houres of the day marked upon its brims, goeth vp and downe the water a while, seek∣ing out the houre of the day that

is then; and there fixeing it self without stirring. The Rare engine teaching how to throw Grenados into beseiged townes, and into any precise place without fayling. The way how to set vp a watch-tower with a man in it, to looke into a towne from without, and see how they are drawne vp within the towne. a way how to change dine∣ing Roomes three or four times, with their tables, the Seats and ghests being by the turning of a wheele transported sitting, out of one Roome into another; and so into three or four more Roomes variously hung with tables couered. The Desk dyall, which throwes vp a little ball of yuory without rest, and thereby marketh the houre of the day, and sheweth what a clock it is: the Dyall of the Planets re∣presenting the dayes of the week by seueral figures in iuory of the pla∣nets: the Oual dyal in which the needle that markes the houres, shrinketh in, or stretcheth out it self according as the oual goes: the dyall shewing to euery one that

toucheth it his predominant passion; with a world of other rare curiosi∣tyes, all made by this ingenious gentleman.

Leauing Lyons, I embarked in a Cabanne, or little couered boat, and descending the rapid Rhosne, I came poste by wather, to Vienne;* 1.50 were Pontius Pilate, bannished hither, threw himself off a high Tower, and killed himself. The Cathedral of this towne is a faire Church dedicated to God, in the honour of S. Maurice: there are neither Pictures, nor hangings in this Church.

* 1.51From hence I went to Tournon, where I saw a good Library in the Colledge.

* 1.52Thence to Valence in Dauphiné, where Law is taught.

* 1.53From whence I came to Pont Saint Esprit famous for its long bridge of therty three arches, and for the bones of a Gyant which are conser∣ued in the Dominicans Conuent here; And from hence to Auignon.

* 1.54Auignon is the head towne of a little country, called Vulgarly the

Le Contad d'Auignon. It belongs to the Pope, hauing been purchased by one of his predecessors anci∣ently of Iane Queen of Naples and Countesse of Auignon: and it serued for a saif retreat to diuers Popes consecutiuely, during the trou∣bles of Italy which lasted aboue seauenty yeares. At last, Italy, and the Popes territories there, being cleared by the admirable cou∣rage and conduct of braue Cardinal Albornozzo, who conquered againe all the Popes estate, The Pope, Greg. the XI, returned home againe to Rome▪ of the foresayd Cardinal Al∣bornozzo I cannot omit to tell one thing; that after his great seruices rendered to the Pope, being enuyed by some of the Court, who had per∣swaded his Holyness to call him to an accompt for the great sommes of monye he had spent in reduce∣ing againe the whole state of the Pope vnto its obedience; he brought the next morning a cart laden with chaines, bolts, locks and keys belong∣ing once to those townes which he had retaken for the Pope, and place∣ed

it vnder the Popes window: then going vp, and desiring his Ho∣liness to draw to a window to see his accompts the better, he opened the window, and shewed him below, the Cart laden with chaines, bolts, locks and keys, saying: Holy Father, I spent all your money in making you master againe of those townes whose keys, locks, bolts and chaines you see in that cart below. At which the Pope admireing, desired no more accompt of him, who proued his honesty by whole cart loads of ser∣uices. Euer since that time, Aui∣gnon hath belongd to the Pope; and he gouerneth it by a Vice-Legat immediatly, the Popes Nep••ew pro tempore being allwayes Legat of this towne.

* 1.55The things I saw here were these. 1. The Cathedral Church with di∣uers tombes of Popes in it that dyed here. 2. The Church of S. Didier, with the tombe of Peirus Da∣mianus who followed the Pope hi∣ther: He was famous for his learn∣ed works, and his knowne sancti∣ty. 3. The Church of the Celestins,

with the tombe, and neat Chappel of Cardinal Peter of Luxenbourg, a yong man of a great family, and of a greater sanctity. 4. The Carthu∣sians Monastery in the bourg of Villeneuue, where you shall see much good painting. 5. The Do∣minicans fair Conuent, with the Chappel and true Picture of S. Vin∣centius Ferrerius a holy man of this Order. 6. The Cordeliers Church famous for its widenesse, and yet not supported by any pillars. Here lyes buryed Madame Laura render∣ed so famous by Petrarchs Verses: not that the was a dishonest woman, but onely chosen by him, to be the poëticall mistresse of his sonnets. 7. The Church of the Fathers of the Christian doctrine, with the body, yet entire, of the Founder of their order P. Caesar de Bus, a man of such singu∣lar sanctity, that Cardinal Richlieu banished hither, whiles he was one∣ly Bishop of Luson, offered and vow∣ed a syluer Lampe to God at the tombe of this holy Bea••••. 8. The fine freestone walls of this towne, the admirable Bridge, many han∣some

Pallaces, and curious gardens. 9. The trading of this towne, which consists much in silkstuffs, parfumed gloues, rubans, and sine paper. 10. The inhabitants here, who loue to go well adiusted and appeare in fine clothes.

* 1.56From Auignon I went by Land to Aix in Prouence, an Vniuersity, a Parlament towne, and one of the neatest townes in France: of the Par∣lament of this towne Monsieur du Vair was the first President, and a singular ornament, by reason of his famous eloquence. This towne is the seat of an Archbishop; and is now possessed by Cardinal Grimal∣di who is Archbishop here. From hence I went to Marseilles.

* 1.57Marseilles is a very ancient towne, built 633 yeares before our Saui∣ours time, and so famous anciently for learning, that it was compared with Athens. It stands vpon the Me∣deterranean Sea, and hath a most neat hauen and harbour for ships and gallyes. I stayd here eight dayes to wait vpon the returne of two Gallies of Genua, that had brought

an Embassadour from thence into France, and were to returne within a few dayes. In this time I had lei∣sure to make a little excursiue Voy∣age to the famous place of deuo∣tion called La Sainte Beaume,* 1.58 where S. Mary Magdalen liued a most penitential life in these mountains and deserts,* 1.59 euen after she had been assured of her pardon by out Saui∣our himself. The place it self is able to make any man that considereth it well, melt into some pennance too, and sigh at least, to see how much she (a woman) did, and how little he (a man) doth; for excellen∣tissima animaduertenti, ne mediocria quidem praestare, rubori oportet esse, saith a great Author. In Marseills it self there remaine some prints of her begunn pennance:* 1.60 but she that had been a sinner in the Cytie (and perchance by that occasion onely) thought the Desert a safer place;* 1.61 and so shewed her conuersion to be true, by flying the occasions of her former sinns.

If you aske me, how Mary Magdalen came hither; I must aske

you,* 1.62 how Ioseph of Arimathia came into England: and learned Baronius will answer vs both, by telling vs, that vpon a persecution raysed against the Christians in Hie∣rusalem; Mary Magdalen, her Sister Martha, her brother Laza∣rus, with Ioseph of Arimathia and diuers others of the first Christians, were exposed to Sea in a ship with∣out sayles, without rudder, without anker, without pilot, and yet the ship came happily to Marseills; where Lazarus preaching the faith of Christ, was made the first Bishop of this towne; and Ioseph of Ari∣mathia came into England.

Neare to Saincte Beaume stands, the towne of S. Maximin famous for the Church of S. Maximin go∣uerned by Dominican Fryers:* 1.63 In this Church are to be seen many famous Relicks of S. Mary Magdalen; as her head in a Chrystal case encha∣sed in gold: her body in a guilt chasse, and diuers other rich things.

Haueing seen Marseilles, I em∣barked in the forsayd Gallies, and was nine dayes in them before I

arriued at Genua; haueing seen in the way, Toulon, Nice, Antibo, Mo∣naco, and Sauona.

Thus I passed, though tediously, yet securely from France into Ita∣ly by Sea: and I could allmost wish my Traueler to take the same course, if he were sure to finde two Gallies well manned as I did, to carry him thither. Otherwise to venture himself (as men ordinarily with extraordinary danger do) in a little Feluca, a boat little bigger then a pair of oares,* 1.64 is a thing I would wish none to do, but Pyrrhonians, and Indifferents who think danger and security to be the same thing. For my part, though I dare not say with that cowardly Italian, who being laughed at for running away in a battle, answered: I was not affrayd, but onely had a mind to try, how long a mans skinn, well kept, would last: yet I dare say with Generous Cato, that I repent me soundly, if euer I went by water, when I could haue gone by Land.

My third Voyage.

MY third Voyage into Italy was againe by the way of Paris and Lyons: but now by Geneua and Swisserland.

Parting then from Lyons I passed ouer the Grand Credo, a smart hill; through Nantua standing vpon a Lake, and in two dayes came to Geneua.

Geneua,* 1.65 like a good sinke at the bottom of three streets, is built at the bottom of Sauoye, France, and Germany, and therefore fit to re∣ceiue into it the corruption, of the Apostatas of the Roman Church.

The things which I saw in Geneua were these: 1. The great Church of S. Peter,* 1.66 the Cathedral anciently of the Bishop of this towne. In the Quire I saw yet remaining the Pic∣tures of the twelue Prophets on one side, and the pictures of the twelue Apostles on the other side, all en∣grauen in wood. The pictures also of the Blessed Virgin Mary, and S. Peter, in one of the windows. Here also I saw the Tombe of the Duke of

Bouillon General of the army of Germans, called then in France the Reiters, who in the battle of Aul∣neau were beaten by the Duke of Guise and forced to fly to Geneua, haueing last 1800 of their men vpon the place, most of them with charmes about their necks, which they thought would haue made them shott free. Mounting vp to the stee∣ple, I saw a fair Bell with a Cruci∣fix cast vpon it, shewing whose it was; and four good peices of ordi∣nance, that none may say, the Church of Geneua wants Ecclesiasti∣call Cannons. And a little below in the Belfree, there liue in seueral Chambers, three or four families of husbands and wifes and sucking children begotten there; contrary to the Canons of any other Church, except those of Geneua. From the top of this Church you haue a fair prospect vpon the lake and neigh∣bouring countryes; which makes them brag here, that they can see from their steeple, into six seueral principalities, to wit, their owne, France, Sauoye, Swisserland, the

Valesians, and the Franchecounty: But I told them, it would be a greater brag, to say, that they could see into no other country, or dominions but their owne. 2. I saw the Arsenal, little, but well stored with defensiue armes. They neuer forget to shew the Ladders of the Sauoyards, who attempted to surpize this towne by scaleing, but were themselues taken and beheaded à la chaude, least some Prince should haue interceded for them. 3. The Towne house with the Chamber where the Magistrats (something like the Hogen Mogens of Holland) sit in Counsel. 4. They shewd me here a Library but none of the best. 5. The admirable Trouts here, able to make the poore Apo∣statas wish for their Lent againe; were it not, that the Capons here are full as good in their kinde.

As for the Gouerment of this towne, it was anciently Monarchi∣cal, and the Bishop was Prince of it vnder the Duke of Sauoye: but Farel and Caluin comeing hither with their anarchical Presbyterie, droue the Bishop Peter de la Beaume

out of the towne; and establish∣ed there a kinde of Democratie, or rather, a kind of Aristocratie, ming∣led of Laymen and Ministers. Yet the Bishop keeps still his title, and the Chapter its reuenews and Lands, which happily lye in Sauoye out of the reach of the short iurisdiction of Geneua. Both the Bishop and Chapter reside in Anisy in Sauoye, and officiate in the Cordeliers Church. of this Seat was Bishop the late Canonized Saint, S. Francis de Sales, a man of singular sweetness and piety,* 1.67 mingled with zeale and discretion. I haue red of him, that in his life time, he made four thou∣sand sermons to the people.

Hauing thus seen the little All of Geneua, I made towards Swis∣serland, leauing the Lake on my right hād;* 1.68 or rather takeing it on my right hand; for it would needs ac∣company me to Lausanna, where it tooke leaue of me, or I of it.

This Lake is absolutly the fairest I haue seen: its fairer then either the Lake Maior, the Lake of Como, the Lake of Zuric, the Lake of

Walenstat, the Lake of Jsee, the Lake of Murat, or the Lake of Garda. In some places this Lake of Geneua is eight miles broad, and well nigh fifty miles long. I haue red of a stranger, who traueling that way alone in winter, when the Lake was all frozen ouer, and couered with snow, tooke the Lake for a large plain, and rid vpon it eight, or ten miles to the towne: Where lighting at his Inn, and commending the fine plain ouer which he had ridden, was giuen to vnderstand, that he had ridden, if not in the air, at least fifteen fathom aboue ground; at which, the poore man reflecting vpon the danger he had been in, fell downe dead with the conceit of it. Thus we are troubled not onely at euils to come but at euils past; and are neuer so neare the danger of death, as when we are newly past it. No animal but man, hath this folly.

* 1.69Leauing then, as I sayd, the Lake I came soone after, to Lausanna in Swisserland, belonging to the Can∣ton of Berne. Here I saw an ancient Church of a noble structure, and

once a Bishops Cathedral, but now possessed by Ministers of Caluins communion; and the man that shewed vs the Church (though no Catholick) assured vs, that the re∣cords of that Church bore, that Masse had been sayd in it thirteen hundred yeares agoe.* 1.70

From Lausanna I went towards Soleur, skirting through the Can∣tons, sometimes of Berne, someti∣mes of Fribourg, and sometimes in one dayes iourney, I passed into a Catholick Canton, and by and by, into a Protestant Canton againe: for here Catholick and Protestant Villages are mingled together, and make the country looke like the back side of a pair of tables chec∣quered with white and black. In one Village you haue a Crosse set vp, to signifie that it is Catholick belonging to the Canton of Friburg; by and by in an other Village, a high flag with the picture of a Beare in it, to signifie,* 1.71 that it be∣longs to the Canton of Berne, and is Protestant: and yet they liue ciuilly and neighbourly together without

quarreling about Religion.

* 1.72Passing thus a long, I came to Soleur (Soloturrum in Latin) a neat towne and Head of a Canton. They are all Catholicks here: and here it is that the French Embassadours to the Swissers, alwayes reside, as the Spanish Embassadors do at Lu∣cerna. This towne is very ancient, as the golden Letters vpon the clock testifye;* 1.73 for those words make Soleur to be onely yonger then her Sister Treuers, which, as Aeneas Syluius writes, was built 1300 yeares before Rome. As for Soleur, I find in good Cronologers that it was built 2030 years after the creation of the world.

From Soleur I went to Murat, a little towne famous for a great battle fought hard by it, by the Duke of Burgondy, and the Swissers. For the the Duke of Burgondy beseiging Mu∣rat,* 1.74 the Swissers came vpon him with a great army, and defeated him. I was told here that the Duke seeing his ar∣my defeated, and himself enuironed on one side by the Lake here; and on the other side, by the enemyes con∣quering army, chose rather to trust

himself to the Lake, then to his en∣nemyes. Wherevpon spurring his horse into the Lake,* 1.75 one of his Dages, to saue himself also, leaped vp behind him as he tooke water. The Duke out of feare either per∣ceiued him not at first, or dissem∣bled it till he came to the other side of the Lake which is two miles broad: The stout horse tugged through with them both, and saued them both from drowning, but not both from death. For the Duke seing in what danger his page had put him, stabbed the Page with his dagger. Poore Prince! thou mighst haue giuen an other offering of thanks giueing to God for thy escape then this; nay, thou mighst haue been as ciuil as thy horse, and haue spaired him, whom beasts and waues had saued: At least by that means, thou mighst haue saue∣ed thy owne honour, by saueing that poore page who offended rather out of feare of death, then out of malice; and thereby thou mighst haue truly sayd, that thou hadst not lost all thy men in that battle. But

passion is a blind thing: Nothing is so dangerous to man, as man; and, as I obserued aboue, we are neuer in greater danger, then when we think we are past danger. The∣bones of the Burgundians slain in this battle, are seen in a great Chap∣pel, which stands a little distant from the towne, and vpon the road, with an inscription vpon it touch∣ing the time and circumstances of this defeat.

From Murat I made towards Zu∣ric, a head towne also of a Canton. It stands most sweetly vpon a Lake whose crystalin waters would de∣light any body else but Swissers. They are all here, Swinglians; and when Mareshal D'Estrée the French Embassadour to Rome, passed that way, and lodged at the great Jnn of the Sword, as he was comb∣ing his head one morning in his combing cloth, with his chamber window open, some of the townes men, who saw him (from an other opposit window) putting on that combeing cloth, and thinking it had been a Priest putting on the

Amice and vesting himself for to say Masse before the Embassadour in his chamber, began with a Dutch clamour to stirre vp the people to a mutiny about the Embassadours house, and to call for the Priest, that was saying of Masse: The Em∣bassadour at first, not vnderstanding the cause of this vproare about his house, rann downe with sword in hand, and in his combeing cloth, to check the first man that should darre to enter his lodgings: but vnderstanding at last, that his comb∣ing cloth had caused this iealousy, hee laughed at their folly, and retir∣ed away contented.

The best things to be seen in Zu∣ric are these. 1. The neat Arsenal furnished with store of fair Cannons and armes of all sortes. 2. The great Library, but in this much lesse es∣teemed by mee, because a woman had the Key of it, and let vs in to see it. This peice of false Latin at the entrance, disgusted me with all that I saw there, and made me hasten out quickly: Good Libraries should not fall en quenoüille.

3. The Wheeles which draw vp water from the Lake of themselues, and empty it into seueral Pipes, & so conueigh it all ouer the towne.

4. The publick great drinking hall, where there are a world of little tables for men of seueral cor∣porations or trayds to meet at, and either talk there of their business, or make drinking their business. Ouer euery table hangs the signe of each trad, as a Last for shooma∣kers, a saddle for sadlers, a sword for cutlers &c. There is a great Bell that rings to this meeting place euery day at two a clock, and when I heard so solemne a ringing, I thought it had been to some Church deuotion, not to a drinking assembly.

From Zuric I went by water, that is, vpon the lake a whole dayes iourney,* 1.76 and passed vnder a bridge of wood which crosseth quite ouer the lake for two miles. Its enter∣tained at the cost of the King of Spayne, to passe the soldiers which he often rayseth in the ad∣iacent countryes.

From hence I went to Coire,* 1.77 or Cear, the head towne of the Gri∣sons. The Bishop and the Clergy of the great Church, with some few others liuing within the pre∣cincts of the Cloister of the great Church, are Catholicks, and per∣forme their deuotions in the Church without controll: the rest of the inhabitants are Swinglians, and pos∣sesse the towne; yet they suffer the Bishop, and his Clergy to liue quietly in the midst of them. They shewed me here in this Church, di∣uers fine Relicks, especially the Head (enchased in syluer) of our ancient Brittan King Lucius,* 1.78 the first Christian king that euer made pro∣fession of Christian. Religion, and the first who helpt to plant it here. The ancient Church office here re∣lates all this, as their Church bookes shewed me.

From the Grisons I went to the Country of the Valtaline;* 1.79 a coun∣try subiect to the Grisons and keep∣ing its fidelity to them euen when it would not haue wanted assistance from Spayne and Italy, if it would

haue been false to its Superiors the Grisons vnder the colour of Reli∣gion: those of the Valtaline being all Catholicks, and their souuerains the Grisons Caluinists. In a little towne of the Grisons (called Her∣berga) I was shewed a cheese (and giuen to taste of it too) by myne hoste, the Maior of the towne, a Caluinist in Religion, and a Venera∣ble old man, who assured me seri∣ously, that that cheese was a hundred years old▪ a Venerable Cheese indeed! and well nigh as old as his Reli∣gion.

* 1.80Between these two countryes of the Grisons and the Valtaline, stands the great Hill Berlino: ouer which I passed; and fell from thence upon Posciauo a little bourg, and so to our Ladyes of Tirano a neat Church with a fair Inn hard by it.

* 1.81Others, to auoyd the snow of Berlino, are forced now and then (as I was once) to passe ouer the mountain Splug, which is hill enough for any traueler.

* 1.82From our Ladyes of Tirano I went vp a smart hill called Mount

Aurigo, and so makeing towards the Lake of Wallinstade,* 1.83 I passed it ouer in boate; as I did also soone after, that of Isee; and so fell into the territories of Brescia in Italy belonging to the state of Venice.

My fourth Voyage.

MY fourth voyage into Italy was from Lyons againe and Geneua,* 1.84 where I now tooke the Lake on my left hand, and passing along the skirts of Sauoye, I came to Boueretta, a little Village, and so to S. Maurice the first towne in the Valetians country, This towne is so called from S. Maurice the Braue Commander of the Theban Legion, in the primitiue times, and who was martyred here for the pro∣fession of Christian Religion toge∣ther with his whole Legion. Hence an Abbey was built here by Sigis∣mond King of Burgondy, and called S. Maurice.

Now, this country is called the country of the Valesians,* 1.85 from the perpetuall Valley in which it lyeth.

The people haue for their Prince the Bishop of Sion the cheif towne of the country. Their Valley is aboue four dayes iourney long, be∣sides their hills which are two more: Most of their little townes and Vil∣lages stand vpon hill sides, leauing all the plain country for tillage and pasturage. Their houses are low and darke, many of them hauing no windowes, and the rest very little ones. Sed casa pugnaces Curios an∣gusta tegebat. As for the people here, they are all Catholicks, sinceare honest men, of stout courage, yet of innocent liues, much snow quench∣ing their lust, and high mountains staueing of from them all luxe and Vanity, the harbingers of Vice. They haue short hair on their heads, but beards in folio. They are got so farre into the grande mode, as to weare breeches and doublets; but thats all: for otherwise their clothes looke as if they had been made by the Taylors of the old Patriarcks; or as if the fashion of them had been taken out of old hangings and ta∣pistry.

In fine, both men and wo∣men here are great and massiue, and not easily to be blowne away: so that I may iustly say of this people, as Cardinal Bentiuoglio sayd of the Swissers, that they are good for the Alpes, and the Alpes for them. One thing I obserued particularly in this windy country, which is, that they haue many natural fooles here, which makes me thinck it no vulgar er∣rour, which is commonly sayd, that the climats that are most agi∣tated with winds produce more fooles, then other climats do.

As for their strength,* 1.86 vpon a de∣fensiue occasion, they can assemble forty thousand men together vnder their knowne Commanders, who are often times the Innkeepers in whose houses we lodge; but out of their owne pit they are not to be feared, haueing neither spirits, nor sinnews: that is, neither ambition, nor money, to carry on a forrain warre.

From S. Maurice I went to Mar∣tigni a great Inn in a poore Village,* 1.87 and from thence to Sion.

* 1.88Sion (anciently Sedunum,) is the cheif towne of the country, and stands in the center of it. Here the Bishop, who is Prince, resideth with his Chapter and Cathedral on one hill, and his Castle stands on another hill hard by. The Court of this Prince is not great, because of his, and his peoples quality. A good Bishop hath something els to do, then to be courted,* 1.89 and good plain people must follow their trads, not Courts. This Prince hath no Gards, because no fears: and if danger should threaten him, his people, whose loue is his onely Arsenal,* 1.90 haue hands enough to defend him. So that the Prince and People, that is▪ the Body Politick of this state, seem∣ed to mee like the Body natural in man, where the soul and the body being freinds together, the soul directs the body, and the body defends the Soul.

* 1.91From Sion I went to Lucia, but lodged a quarter of a mile from the towne; and from thence I reach∣ed Briga at night.

* 1.92Briga is a little Village standing

at the foot of great hills; where haueing rested well all night, at the Colonels house (the best Inn here) we began the next morning to clime the hills for a breakfast. For the space of three houers our hor∣ses eased vs, the ascent not being so surley as we expected from so rugged a brow of hills: but when wee came to the steep of the hill it self Mount Sampion,* 1.93 (one of the great Staircases of Italy) we were forced to compliment our horses, and go a foot. It was towards the very begining of October when we passed that way, and therfore found that Hill in a good humour; otherwise its froward enough. Haue∣ing in one houres time crawled vp the steep of the Hill, we had two houres more rideing to the Village and Inn of Sampion: where arriue∣ing, we found little meat for our great stomacks, and cold comfort for all the hot stincking Stone.

At last haueing payd for a dinner here, though we saw nothing we could eate, we were the lighter in purse, as well as in body, to walke

well that afternoone, rather then that afterdinner. To describe you the rough way we had between Sampion and Deuedra, downe hill alwayes, or fetching about hills vpon a narrow way artificially made out of the side of those hills, and sometimes sticking out of them, as if it had been plaistered to them, were able to make my pen ake in writing it, as well as my leggs in walkeing it. And here I found the Prouerb false which saith, that its good walking with a horse in ones hand: for here we could nei∣ther ride, nor lead our horses secure∣ly, but either the one, or the other were in danger of stumbling, that is, of falling fiue hundred fa∣dome deep. For here, as well as in warre, semel tantum peccatur, a man need but stumble once for all his lifetime: Yet by letting our horses go loose with the bridle on their necks, and makeing a man go be∣fore each horse, least they should iumble one another downe (as I once saw the like done by horses in Swisserland) we arriued safely at

Deuedra that night.* 1.94 You would do well also to light from horse at the going ouer all the little trembling Bridges of wood which you will finde there, remembring the Italian Prouerb, which saith: Quando tu Vedi vn Ponte, falli piu honore che iu non fai a vn Conte.

Haueing reposed all night in the house of the Signor Castellano,* 1.95 we went the next morning to Do∣modoscela a litle garrison towne of the state of Milan, troublesome enough to trauelers that passe from Milan this way, and carry pistols and gunns without licence.

From Domodescela we passed through a fine plain country to Marguzzi,* 1.96 * 1.97 a little Village stand∣ing vpon the Lake Maior (anci∣ently called Lacus Verbanus) where making our bargain with our boat∣men ro carry vs in one day from thence to Sesto, & keep aloof of from the command of all the Castles, which now and then warne boates to come in; and vnder pretence of searching them for marchandize, stopp passingers till they haue

screwed a peece of monny out of them.

* 1.98Arriueing saif at Sesto that night we tooke Coache the next day for Milan, and dineing at Ciuita Cas∣tellanza,* 1.99 arriued be times at that great towne which was called anci∣ently Altera Roma: a second Rome.

My fift Voyage.

MY fift voyage into Italy was still from Lyons, but now by the way of Mount Cenis, and Tu∣rin, the ordinary Post rode, and I think the easyest way of all the rest.

Parting then from Lyons on horseback, we passed through Ver∣pillier, La Tour du Pin, Beaunoysin (whose bridge parts France, and Sauoy) and came in two dayes to the foot of Mount Aiguebellet, the threshold of the Alpes: This is a pretty breathing hill,* 1.100 and may be called, the Alpes foule ouer, or the Alpes in a running hand and not in that fair Text hand which I found Mount Cenis to be in. It hath all the lineaments and shapes

of the great Alpes, that is, much winding and turning; deep preci∣pices, Marons, or, men with little open chairs, to carry you vp and downe the hill for a crowne; and much stumbling worke. In fine this hill ressembles Mount Cenis, as a proper man may do a Gyant.

Hauing passed this Hill, and by it through the very clowds, we fel as it were out of the skyes, vpon Chambery the cheif towne of Sa∣uoy,* 1.101 and where the Parlament re∣sides,

We cast to be there at the so∣lemne Entry, which this Duke made for his new Spouse the third daugh∣ter of the late Duke of Orleans,* 1.102 when she came first into this coun∣try. To describe all the Triumphal Arches in the Streets, with their Emblems and mottos rarely painted; the stately Throne a litle out of the towne, where the Duke and Dut∣chesse receiued the compliments of their subiects; the rich liueries of the young townesmen on horsback; the gallantery of the Noblemen and gentlemen of the country (800 in all)

their horses at fine as they; the Parlament men, and other officers of Iustice all in black veluet gownes; the Clergy and Religious marching in the mean time humbly a foot and in procession; the Dukes two companies of horse in veluet coats of crimosin colour embrodered with gold and syluer; The Pages and footmen of the Duke and Dut∣chess in crimosin Veluet layd thick with gold and syluer lace; in fine, the Duke and Dutchesse on horse∣back as brillant as the sun, would fill a book alone, which I haue no mind to do, seing there is one ex∣tant already in a iust volume.

Leauing then Chambery the next day after the Shew,* 1.103 we went to Montmelian to dinner. This is a strong Castle vpon a high rock, ouerlooking the riuer Isere,* 1.104 and commanding the passage here which is straight between the hills. The strength of this Castle appeared when it withstood the Royal army of Lewis the XIII of France for fif∣teen months, and made him rayse the Seige when he had done.

Here is still a strong garrison in it, and store of ammunition, and all things necessary for the defence of a strong place. They shewed vs in it their deep well for fresh water in the midst of a high rock; their ex∣cellent peeces of Artillary, one where∣of is sayd to carry four miles, that is, to Fort Barreau a little Fort belonging to France, which is two leagues from hence, and which you see from this Castle.

From Montmelian we had rough way to Aiguebelle;* 1.105 thence to S. Iohn Morian,* 1.106 to S. Michel, and at last to Lasnebourg, which stands at the foot of Mount Cenis the highest of all the hills I passed ouer in my se∣ueral voyages into Italy,* 1.107 or out of it; to wit, Sampion, Berlin, Splug, and S. Godarde.

This Hill of Mount Cenis part∣ing Sauoy and Italy, shall be the place where I will now begin my Description of Italy, haueing hitherto onely described the seueral wayes into it.

The description and Voyage of Italy.

* 1.108ARRIVEING then, as I sayd be∣fore, at the foot of Mount Ce∣nis, anciently called Cinisium; and resting all night at Lasnebourg we agreed with the Marons, to carry vs vp the hill, and downe the Hill, as also euer the plain, and in fine, all the way to Noualese it self. All this is to be expressed in your bargain with then, otherwise they will cauil with you, and make you go ouer the plain a foot. The price is, a Spanish pistol for euery man thats carryed. Those that are strong and vigorous, ride vp vpon mules, and walke downe a foot.

We began to mount at our going out of our Inn at Lasnebourg, and hauing passed by La Ramassa (where men are posted downe the Hill vpon the snow in sledges with great celerity and pleasure) after two houres tugging of our chairmen, or Marōs, we came to the top of the hill, and a little after to the Posthouse,

and the little Hospital vpon the plain: Thence passing by the Chap∣pel, of the Transis (that is, of those who are found dead of cold in the snow, and are buryed here) we came to the great Crosse and Tauerne, where we began to descend. This Hill of Mount Cenis is four miles in the going vp, four miles vpon the plain, and two in its descent to Noualese.

Arriuing about noone at No∣ualese,* 1.109 we dined, horsed, and went that night to Susa.

Susa, anciently Segesium, is a strong towne, and one of the gates of Italy. For this reason,* 1.110 the French in their late long warre with Spayne, kept it a long time in their hands, as well as Pignorola, which they still keep vpon treaty, to let them into Italy, when they haue a mind. Its strength consists wholly in a Castle built vpon a high rock close to the towne, and command∣ing all the passage betwixt the two mountains.* 1.111 This towne is fa∣mous in the latter history, for the smart action of the French, when they beat downe the twelue seue∣ral

Barriers, whereby the Duke of Sauoy thought to haue choaked their passage.* 1.112 This ••action is fa∣mous in history, by the name of le Pas de Suze.* 1.113 Here at Susa be∣gins Piedmont.

From Susa we went to S. Am∣brosio, & passed by Riuolle a fine house of the Dukes,* 1.114 standing in good ayre, and at night we came to Turin.

* 1.115Turin, anciently called Augusta Taurinorum, is situated in a plain neare the foot of the hills and vpon the bancks of the riuer Po,* 1.116 which begins here to be nauigable, and from hence carryes boats to Ferra∣ra, Chiosa and Venice. This Po is a noble riuer, and very large in some places,* 1.117 especially a little be∣low Ferrara; yet I haue read that in a great drouth which happened in the yeare of the world 2470 it was dryed vp and rendered innaui∣gable.

* 1.118This Turin is the Seat of one of the greatest Princes in Italy, the Duke of Sauoy, and Prince of Pied∣mont, who is also treated with the title of Altezza Reale, and Vica∣rio

Generale del Imperio in Italia. This house of Sauoy which now gouerns here, came anciently from Siguardo King of Saxony, in the yeare of Christ 636, and hath conserued it self euer since, that is, for a thousand and odd years in a continual series of heroical Prin∣ces, whose Pedegree was neuer vi∣tiated nor interrupted by any de∣generate offspring. Fiue Emperors, and four Kings haue yssued out of this house.

Anciently the Dukes of Sauoy kept their Court at Chambery, or els at Bourg en Bresse, a country now be∣longing to France, vpon exchang with the Marquisat of Saluzzo; as many of their tombes curiously cut in marble in the Augustins Church there yet shew. It was A∣madeo the Vof that name, Duke of Sauoy, that transferred the Court to Turin. It was also this Amadeo who in memory of his Granfather Amadeo the IV, who had defended Rhodes so brauely, instituted the kinghthood of the Annunciata, with this single motto in the collar

of the order F. E. R. T. signifying, that Fortitudo Eius Rhodum Tenuit.* 1.119

The subiects of this Prince are sayd to be about eighteen hundred thousand souls. His whole country with Piedmont and all,* 1.120 is iudged to be two hundred miles long, and fifty broad. His forces thirty three thousand foot,* 1.121 and fiue thousand horse: and his Reuenews to be a∣bout a million of crownes,* 1.122 besides what he can now and then rayse out of that fat country of Piedmont. His Jnterest is,* 1.123 to keep well with France, and not fall out with Spayne.

As for the towne it self of Turin, its almost squar, and hath four gates in it;* 1.124 a strong Cittadel with fiue bastions to it; its well furnished with good prouisions in the mar∣ket; it stands in a fat soyle, which makes it a little too durty in win∣ter, and it is an vniuersity.

* 1.125The cheif things which I saw here, were these.

* 1.1261. The Domo, or Great Church, in which is kept with great deuo∣tion the Holy Syndon, in which

our Sauiours body was wound vp and buryed: of the Verity of this Relick see Baronius in his Eccle∣siastical History ad an. 34 num. 138. Its keept in a Chappel ouer the High Altar and showne publickly vpon certain dayes, and priuatly To Embassadours and Prelats, as they passe that way. The late Du∣chesse Madame Christina, began to make a fine Chappel for to keep it in, but is was not quite finished when I passed that way last. The Chappel is all of black marble ador∣ned with stately black marble pil∣lars: indeed winding sheets (such as this Relick is) are things of mourn∣ing, and are best set out in a mourn∣ing way.

2. The Cittadelle standing at the back of the towne,* 1.127 and keeping it in awe. This Duke and his mother found the conuenience of this Citta∣delle, when by factions within the towne against them, they were force∣ed to this Cittadelle, and there wea∣ther it out stoutly, till succour comeing to them from France, made them masters againe of the towne, and their enemyes.

3. The Dukes new Pallace hansomely bu••lt with a fair Court before it,* 1.128 a great Piazza, and a large open street leading vp to it. The Cham∣bers are faire, and hung with hang∣ings of cloth of Tyssue of a new and rich fabrik, with rich embrodered beds, chairs, stools, cloth of State, and Canopies. The Dutchesses Cabi∣net, the curious bathing place aboue, hund round with the true pictures in litle of the prime Ladyes of Eu∣rope:* 1.129 The curious inuention for the Dutchesse to conuey her selfe vp from her bedchamber to that bathing roome, by a pully and a swing, with great ease and saifty: the great Hall painted curiously: the Noble staircase: the old long Gallery 100 paces long,* 1.130 with the Pictures in it of the Princes and Princesses of the house of Sauoy, with the Statues of the ancient Emperours and Philosophers in marble, with a rare Library locked vp in great cubbords, are the cheif rooms and ornaments of this Pallace. I saw also the Appartiments or lodgeings of the old Dutchesse Madame

Christina, which ioyne to the old Gallery, and in her Cabinet I saw many choyce pictures.

4. The new street,* 1.131 which runeth from the Pallace to the Piazza Reale, is a fair street and built vni∣formly. The shops below afford great conueniency to the townes men, and the fair lodgings aboue to the noblemen and Courtiers.

5.* 1.132 The Piazza Reale is built hansomly vpon Pillars, like our Couent Garden, and is full of no∣thing els but noblemens houses.

6.* 1.133 The Augustins Church called S. Carlo, standing in this piazza, adornes it much, being a neat Church and the best contriued that I saw in this towne.

7.* 1.134 The Capucins Church vpon a hill out of the towne, is aboue the rate of Capucins: but you must know who gaue it, not who haue it. From hence I had a perfect view of Turin with the country about it.

8.* 1.135 Some three miles out of the towne I saw a neat house of the Dukes, called La Venerie Royale.

The Court set round with stagg•• heads; the chambers full of good Pictures; the Hall painted with great Pictures of the Duke, his mother, his sisters, and other Ladyes all on horseback as if they were going a hunting; the place where they keep pheasants, partridges, and other such like birds, the stable for 100 horse, and the neat dogkennel, are the best things to be seen in this house.

* 1.1369 On the other side of the towne, about a mile of, I saw the old Dut∣chesses house called La Valentine. It stands pleasantly vpon the banks of Po, and is adorned with great variety of pictures. In fiue or six roomes, on the right hand of the house, they shewed me a world of pictures of all sorts of Flowers: on the left hand, as many of all sorts of birds, with other pictures cu∣riously painted. The four pictures representing the four Elements, with all that belongs to them, as all the birds that fly in the air; all the beasts that are found vpon the Earth; all the fishes and shells that are found

in the water; and all things that be∣long to fire, are so curiously paint∣ed in their seueral particular shaps & colours, that these four peeces are and abridgment of all nature, and the admiration of all that behold them. There are some other good peeces here too; as the Magdalen fallen into an extasie: the rapt of the Sabins; and diuers others. The others houses about the towne, as Millefleur belonging to the Duke; the Villa of the Princesse Marie; with diuers others which shew themselues vpon the Hill side, are very stately, and worth seeing.

Hauing thus seen Turin,* 1.137 we left the ordinary road, which leads to Milan (to wit, by the way of Ver∣celle and Nouara, two strong townes frontier to one another, through which I passed in another voyage) and to auoyd two armyes which lay in the way, chose to steere towards Genua by the low way of Sauona. And passing through a me∣lancholy country by Altare and other little townes for the pace of three daies, we came at last to Sauona.

* 1.138Sauona (anciently called Sabatia, or Sabatium) is the second towne, or eldest daughter of Genua; and like a good daughter indeed she stands alwayes in her mothers pre∣sence, yet keeps her distance: it be∣ing within sight of Genua, yet fiue and twenty mils off. It stands vpon the Mediterranean Sea, or, as they call it here, vpon the Riuiera di Genoa. Its fortified both by art and nature, thar is, by regular Fortifica∣tions towards the Sea, and by lusty Apennin hills towards the Land. Yet whiles Sauona feared no danger from either Sea, or Land, it was almost ruined in the yeare 1648. by fire from heauen, to wit, ligth∣ning; which falling vpō a great Tower, in the midst of the towne, where gunpowder was kept, blew it vp vpon a sudden, and with it, threw downe two hundred houses round about it, and houses of note. For passing that way six months after, and walking among the ruines, I saw in many of the houses, which were but half fallen downe, curi∣ous painted chambers and fine

guilt roofes, which shewd me of what house many of these houses had been; and of what weak de∣fence guilt roofes and painted walls are against the artillery of heauen thunder and lightning.

This towne is famous in history for the interview of two great kings here, to wit, Lewis the XII of France, and Ferdinand King of Naples. This interview passed with demonstrations of mutuall ciuili∣tyes, not ordinary in interviews of Princes. For Lewis feared not to go into the Gallyes and ships of Fer∣dinand without gards and vnarmed: and Ferdinand remained for many dayes together in this towne belong∣ing the•• to Lewis, whom he had lately stipt of the kingdome of Naples, and beaten him to boot in a battle.

Of this towne were Iulius Secundus, and Sixtus Quartus, two Popes of the house of Roueri: and two great Cardinals, Peter, and Raphael Riarii.

Embarking at Sauona in a Feluca we rowed along the Shoare (called

la Riuiere di Genoa) vnto Genua it self; and all the way long we saw such a continual suburbs of stately Villas and Villages, that these scantlings made vs in loue which the whole peece it self, Genua.* 1.139 I confesse, I neuer sew a more stately abord to any Citty then to this: and if we had not had Genua full in our sight all the way long, we should haue taken some of these stately Villages for Genua it self; and haue imitated Hostingus the leader of the Normans, who comeing into Italy about the yeare 860 with a great army, and finding Luna (a towne in the confines of Genua) so sump∣tuously built, thought really it had been Rome, and there vpon takeing it,* 1.140 he gloryed that he had sacked the mistresse of the world; Gratatur te∣nere se Monarchiam totius Imperii, per vrbem quam putabat Roman••, sayth his Historian.

Sayling thus along this pleasant coast, we came betimes to Genua.

* 1.141Genua is one of the chief townes that stand vpon the Mediterranea•• Sea, and one of the best in Italy. The

common Italian Prouerb, calls it, Genua la Superba: and if euer I saw a towne with its holy day clothes al∣wayes on, it was Genua. It stands upō the side of a hill, and riseing by de∣grees, appears to those that looke vpon it from the Sea, like an Am∣phitheater. Heretofore it was only fortified by marble bullworks,* 1.142 that is, great hills of marble which backt it vp: but some forty years ago, it was enuironed, with new-walls, carrying six miles in compasse, and yet finished in eighteen months.

The Hauen heretofore was very vnsafe, and many ships which had tuggd through the most dangerous Seas abroad, were seen to sink here in the hauen at home;* 1.143 the French then masters of Genua, not suffering her to shut vp her hauen, least she should shut them out. But since shee hath shaked off the French yoak, she hath loked vp her Trea∣sures, and bolted the doore on the inside, by that admirable Mola which crossing almost quite ouer the baye, or, hauen, doth not one∣ly bolt out all enemyes, but euen

locks vp the boisterous Sea it self, and makes it tame in the hauen. Its a prodigious worke, and able to haue puzzeld any two Kings in Europe to haue done it.

* 1.144At one end of this Mola stands the Pharos vpon a little rock, with a Lantern vpon it, to giue notice, by knowne signes, what ships, how many, and from what side they Come: or els to guide their owne ships home safely in the night. At first it was onely a little Fort for to help to bridle Genua, and it was built by Lewis the XII of France.

As for the towne it self of Genua, its most beautifull to behold:* 1.145 many of the houses being painted on the outside, and looking as if they were turned inside out, and had their Arras hangings hung on their outsides. The tops of their houses are made with open galleries, where the women sit together at worke in clusters, and where also they dry their haire in the Sun after they haue washed it in a certain wash a purpose for to make it Yellow, a

colour much affected here by all women.

The streets are very narrow:* 1.146 so that they vse here few coaches, but many Sedans and Litters. This makes the noyse in the streets lesse, and the expence in the purse small∣er. But for want of ground and earth, they make heauen pay for it; taking it out in the height of their houses what they want in bredth or length. So that Genua looked in my eye like a proad yong Lady in a straight bodyed flowered gowne, which makes her looke tall indeed and fine, but hinders her from being at her ease, and take∣ing breath freely.

Yet I must except the Strada Noua here, which for a spirt,* 1.147 sur∣passeth all the streets I euer saw any where else for neatness and propor∣tion; and if it had but breath ynough to hold out at the same rate, a little longer, it would be the true Queen-street of Europe: Ordinary houses are so out of countenāce here, that they dare not appeare in this street where thers nothing but Pal∣laces,

and Pallaces as fine as art, and cost; or as Marble, and Painting can make them.

Haueing sayd thus much of Genua in general, I will now come to the particulars that are to be seen in it.

* 1.1481. The Domo, or great Church of S. Laurence presents it self to my sigth: Its the Cathedral of the Arch∣bishop, who, when I passed that way last, was Cardinal Durazzo, a man of great Vertue and Piety. This Church is of a noble structure, all of black and white marble inter∣mingled, and all massiue squair stones. In a Chappel ouer against the Pulpit, is kept reuerently an authentick Relick of S. Iohn Bap∣tist, vnder the Altar; and the great Dish of one Emmeraud, in which they say here that our Saui∣our eat the Paschal Lambe with his disciples. Both these where giuen to the Genuesi by Balduin King of Hierusalem, for their great seruice done against the Turks in the Holy Land.* 1.149 Of the Relick of S. Iohn Baptist, Baronius, speaks credibly

in his Ecclesiasticall History▪ but for the dish of Emmeraud, I find no authority for it, either in Baronius or any ancient author, that our Sa∣uiour vsed it. Especially seing Ve∣nerable Beda writes,* 1.150 that the Dish in which our Sauiour eat the Pas∣chal Lambe was of syluer.

2 After the Domo, I saw the Church of the Annunciata,* 1.151 which draweth vp the Ladder after it for neatness. Its still in building, and not quite finished.* 1.152 Its thus beauti∣fyed at the cost of two Brothers Rich Gentlemen and merchands of this towne who allow the third part of their gaynes to the adorning of this Church. The roof of it is all guilt, and set with curious pictures in Platfound. The Altars round about the Church, are cheeked with exquisit pillars, and adorned with rare pictures. The two rowes of Vast Pillars, which hold vp the roof of the Church, are so beauti∣full, being of a red and white marble, that they looke like Iasper, and rauish the beholder: They are curiously wrought and chanelled.

* 1.1533. The Churh of S. Ambrosio, be∣longing to the Jesuits is neatly ouer∣crusted with marble and guilt aboue in the roof. It wants a little lenght, for want of roome to build on: it being too neare the Doges pallace, and not daring to aduance a step further for feare of treading vpon his heels.

* 1.1544. The Church of the Thea∣tins called S. Cyro, is very hansome, with its double row of white marble pillars, which set it out very grace∣fully. The Cloister also is very neat, and the Fathers very ciuil.

* 1.1555. The Pallaces here are most sumptuous. Those of the Strada Noua are the best, and the best of those, is that of the Prince d'O∣ria: its built vpon white round marble pillars, which support its Galleries, and those galleries let you into noble roomes adorned with all the Abellimenti of Italian Pallaces. The other Pallaces too, in this street, deserue particular mention in this my description of Genua, and may take it ill I say nothing of them; but they must excuse my breuity, and

impute the fault partly to them∣selues; seeing admirable things are lyable to this inconuenience, that they are also vnexpressable.

6. I saw also the two Pallaces of the Signori Balbi,* 1.156 in the Street of the Annunciata. In the one whereof (on the left hand) I saw, among other rich things, a Looking Glasse valued at threescore thousād crowns. Its much of the size of those Looking glasses, which Seneca calls, specula toti corpori paria, that is, as bigge, and brickle, as those that looke themselues in them. The frame of it is all of syluer, set thick with a thousand little armed figures, like Cupids: as if the plain Mirrour of this Looking Glasse were the plain field where Cupid pitcheth his Tents, and begins his conquests ouer fair Ladyes. The round pillars set in the porch of this house, and the Giuochi d'acqua in the garden, will make themselues be taken notice of.

7. The Pallace of the Doge,* 1.157 or biennial Prince here, with the Se∣ueral Chambers of Iustice, and the Armory in it for thirty thousand

men aught to be carefully seen.* 1.158 In one of the great Halls of this Pal∣lace, are seen twelue Statues of white marble, representing twelue famous men of this towne, who had render∣ed great seruice to the Common∣wealth. In the foresayd Armory you see a halbard with two pistol bar∣rels in the lower end of it. You see also the Armour of the Genuesian Amazones, who went to the warre in the Holy Land, and carryed them∣selues gallantly. Heres also a cannon of Leather so light, that a man may carry it.

8. But that which is the most taking in Genua, is that which is out of Genua; I meane, the stately Suburbs of San Pietro in Arena,* 1.159 where for a mile together, Villas adorned with marbles, painting, sta∣tues, Gardens, Arbours of Gelso∣min, Orange, and Limon trees, grotts, ponds, Giuochi d'acqua, fountains, high wales, with shades borne vp by Marble Pillars &c. compose of many pallaces and gar∣dens, such a beautifull Landskip, that the whole place seemed to mee,

to be the charming Paradise of the King of the Mountains anciently; and I was almost going to say, that we durst not blesse our selues, least this enchanted place should haue Vanished. The best Villas, or Pal∣laces here, are those of Hieronymo Negro, and that of the Imperiali: the first beautifyed with all the graces of Italian furniture, as also with Gardens, Walks, Ponds, Wa∣ter works, Allees &c: the other, besides all these, hath an excellent Prospect: for the master of this house can see out of one window of it, twelue thousand crownes a yeare of his owne, onely in let houses. The other Pallaces here expect I should say something of them, and they deserue it well; but realy to giue them their full due, I can onely say this of them, that they aught to be seen by the eye, not described by the pen.

9.* 1.160 As you returne from San Pie∣tro in Arena to the towne not farre from the Gates, stands the Villa, or Pallace of the Duke d'Oria. I re∣serued this for the last, pour faire

bonne bouche. It stands vpon the Seaside, and its garden towards the Sea is built vpon three rowes of white marble Rayls borne vp by white marble pillars, which ascend∣ing by degrees, is so beautifull to behold from the Sea, that strangers passing that way to Genua, take this garden for a second Paradise. In the midst of it stands the rare Fountain of Neptune, representing the true lookes of Braue Andrea D'Oria the Neptune of the Ligurian Sea, and the man who put his country out of Liuery, and taught it, not to serue. All along one side of this Garden, stands a Cage of Iron, about a hundred paces long; and so high that it fetcheth in a world of laurel & other trees, clad with chirping birds of seueral sorts; and to make the poore birds beleeue that they are rather in a wood, then in a prison, the very Cage hath put euen the wood it self in prison. Then entring into the Pallace, we found it most curiously adorned with ra∣rityes, and riches, sutable to the countrys humour, and the masters

purse. Its true, when this Queen of Spayne passed from Germany into Spayne, by the way of Milan and Genua, the Gouernour of Mi∣lan told her, that she should see in d'Orias pallace here, many fine things, but all borrowed of the townsmen. Which d'Oria hearing of before hand, caused to be writ∣ten ouer the great Gates of the Pallace, where the Queen was to enter and lodge, these words in Spanish, By the grace of God, and the Kings fauour, thers nothing here borrowed. It may be, the cunning Gouernour of Milan thought by telling the Queen this, to oblige the Duke D'Oria to present some of his best things to the Queen, to shew her that they were his owne; as its sayd, the late Duke of Buc∣kingham did in France, by break∣ing his dyamond hatband among the Court Ladyes, who sayd he had onely borrowed it; but the wise Italian by this trick, both kept his owne, and yet satisfyed the Queen. Indeed he hath things here both too good to be giuen away, and

too great to be carryed away: wit∣ness those rare Syluer tables which are in his Warderobe, one whereof weigheth twenty-four thousand pound weight. From the Pallace we were led ouer the street to his great garden vpon the hillside, where all the graces that can make vp a gar∣den, are found.

As for the Gouerment, fashions, Wealth, strength, and Interest of Genua, I found them to be thus.

Their Gouerment, is Demo∣cratical, or Popular, by a Dog•• (chosen euery two years) and eight Senators,* 1.161 who liue with him in the Pallace, and assist him with their counsell. The great Counsell here, which is the foundation of the Gouerment, consists of four hun∣dred men chosen indifferently out of all the families of the towne. These deliberate with the Signo∣ria of all things that belong to warre or peace. Anciently, as I hinted before, Genua was vnder the French domination, till Andrea D'Oria set it free. Histories write of it that Berengarius the third, and

the Sarazins, so ruined Genua, that they left it swiming in its owne blood: Which ruine was forewarned by a prodigie of a fountain of blood which rann in the very streets of Genua. It had like to haue swmme a second time in its blood, when Lewis the XII of France entering into Genua victoriously with sword in hand, threatning the vtter ruine of that people; was pacifyed by the mournfull cryes of four thousand little Children, who clad in sack∣cloth and placed in the great Piaz∣za cryed out to the King in a piercing accent, Misericordia e Pieta, Mercy and Pitty. But since Genua shooke off the French Yoke it hath liued perpetually Gealous of the Frēch, especially since it discouer∣ed, some years past, diuers attempts of France against it, whiles the French had Portolongone and Piombino.

For this reason, the Genuesi leane much to the Spanish Faction; and Fashions following Faction,* 1.162 they leane also much to the Spanish Fashion both in humour and apparel. Hence I found here broad hats

without hat-bands, broad leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow britches with long wasted doublets and hanging sleeues, to be à la mode, as well as in Madrid. And I found all the great Ladyes here to go like the Donnas of Spayne in Guardinfantas, that is, in horrible ouergrowne Vertigals of whale-bone, which being put about the waste of the Lady, and full as broad on both sides, as she can reach with her hands, beare out her coats in such a huffing manner, that she appears to be as broad as long. So that the men here with their little close britches, looked like tumblers that leap through the houps: and the wo∣men like those that danced anci∣ently the Hobby-horse in country Mummings. Two of these Ladyes meeting one another in these narrow streets, make as great an Embarras, as two carts of hay do vpon London bridge: and I haue seen their Ladiships strangely puz∣zled, how to iuggle themselues into a narrow Sedan, or Littar: indeed half of my Lady hangs out. For my

part I admire that this iealous Re∣publick doth not feare, least some of these Ladyes (vpon a disgust) should carry a set of little short gunns vnder her coats, and vnder pretence of preferring a petition to the Senate assembled, giue them a broad side or two, and make a horrible confusion in the Republick. If all this bulk of clothes, which make the women here looke like haycocks with armes and heads, be allowed them by their wise hus∣bands, to render them more visible, and lesse able to go priuately into any suspected houses, its good po∣licy: otherwise, most certain it is, that the wifes gownes cheat horri∣bly the Husbands britches, of almost all the stuff.* 1.163 I haue onely heard (and it was from a Nobleman of Genua) of one Lady here that made right vse of these Guardinfantas; and it was shee, who seeing her onely sonn (a yong nobleman of Genua about eighteen years old) already condemned to prison, and ready to be condemned to the scaffold for a heynous crime, got leaue to visit

him in prison as often as she pleased; and at last, by meanes of a good Guardinfanta of steele, in∣stead of whale-bone, she tooke vp her sonn vnder her coats in that Guardinfanta, and marching out of the prison grauely, as she vsed to do, by leaning vpon two ancient women, as the Fashion is here for great Ladyes to do, she carryed him home so; and being there deli∣uered of him a second time, with∣out a midwife, she sent him pre∣sently out of the country to be nurs∣ed and kept. Thus she saued her families honour. Was not this a true Guardinfanta, which preserued thus the life of a child? But was not this also a gallant mother that went with a child who was full eighteen years old when his mother bore him? The onely pitty was, that this gallant mother had not the happiness once to be mother of a gallant sonn, seeing she had had the trouble of bringing forth such a sonn twice.

* 1.164As for their Riches, I am told they passe not a million and two hundred thousand crownes a yeare. In∣deed

the King of Spayne Philip the II aboue a hundred years ago, borrowed of this Republick the summ of ele∣uen millions, and keeps them still in his hands, to keep this Re∣publick in awe; yet paying the in∣terest duly vnto them. So that the Common purse here is nothing so rich as that of Venice, though the particular men here are farre richer then those of Venice. They haue great trading both with France and Spayne, and are great Banquiers makeing the Chāge, in all the bancks of Europe go as they please. Besides, they vtter a world of Taffetas, Vel∣uets, Sattins, Points of needle worke and diuers other things of Value.

As for their Strength,* 1.165 its enough to defend themselues, scarce enough to offend others. For Genua is backd vp by the Apennins, where all pas∣sages are easily made good against inuaders; and it is so well fortify∣ed on the other side by the Sea it self, twelue or fourteen good Gallyes, twenty ships of warre, and its incomparable Molo, that they could scuffle notably in their owne

defence. Besides, Genua is fortifyed not onely with its Hills and Sea, but also with its new walls and bull∣works of stone; nay, and with its Bonewalls too, that is, with a La∣cedemonian wall of a world of inha∣bitants, and with the Illustrious Fa∣milies of d'Oria, Spinola, Grimaldi Sauli, Durazzi, Catanei, and others, whose seueral names would go almost for seueral armyes. Yet for a need, they can rayse thirty thousand men, and arme them well out of their Arsenal. I confesse here∣tofore they were strong enough to offend others; For they made warre against the Pisani, and worsted them: They set also vpon the I¦land of Corsica, distant from Genua about a hundred miles, and tooke it. This Iland gaue the Republike of Genua more honour then pro∣fit: for it being once a Kingdome, giues still to Genua the title of Se∣renissima, and a Close Regal Crowne ouer its Coat of Armes. In fine, the Genuesi were strong enough hereto∣fore, to lend great succours to God∣frey of Bullen in his holy conquest

of Hierusalem. Hence vpon the very Arca of the Holy Sepulcher in Hie∣rusalem, are written these words: Praepotens Genuensium praesidium.

As for their Interest,* 1.166 it seemed to mee to be farre more Spanish, then French, by reason of the great profit they draw from Spayne, which corresponds with the rich State of Milan in men and monyes, by meanes of the Gennesi: yet they are well with all Christian Princes, ex∣cept with the Duke of Sauoye who pretends to Sauona.

As for the Learned men of this towne,* 1.167 I find them not to be so many. The rich Banquier is more esteemed here, then the learned Diuine. Yet I finde here also some famous for learning, to wit, Baptista Fregosus, or, Fulgosus, who for his singular parts being chosen Doge of Genua, and by his owne disloyal kinred chased from Gouerment and country, comforted himself in his studdyes; and haueing obserued many particular things in history, he reduced them to heads, and left vs a iust volume of Memorable say∣ings

and Deeds of the ancients: for which work he is stiled by Alberto Leandro, the Valerius Maximus of Italy. He wrote in Italian, and dedicated his booke to his Sonn. The other learned men of this towne are Iustinianus, Balus, Mas∣cardi, and Christopher Columbus.

Genua also hath giuen to the Church three Popes, Adrian the V. Innocent the IV, and Innocent the VIII.

* 1.168Here is an Academy of Wits call∣ed the Adormentati; which toge∣ther with the other Academyes of the like nature in all the townes of Italy, I would wish my Trauel∣ler to visit particularly, that he may see how farr the Jtalians ex∣cell vs in passing their time well, and how its much better to spend the week in making of Orations and Verses, then in drinking of Ale and smoaking of Tobacco.

* 1.169He that desires to know more of Genua, let him read Augustinus Iustinianus of the History of Geuua.

Hauing spent six dayes in Genua we agreed with an honest Vetturino

to conduct vs to Milan which is about four little dayes iourney from hence.* 1.170 In another voyage I went from Genua to Turin by Monferat and saw in my way Noui (of which by and by) Trino, Cassale one of the strongest places of Italy;* 1.171 hauing a strong Cittadelle, a strong Casile, strong towne-walls and ditches; and Alexandria della paglia a strong towne standing vpon the Po.* 1.172

But now at this time, leaving Genua, and intending for Milan, we rid through San Pietro d'Arena, by the Carthusians Monastery, ouer the Apenniu Hills, and in a day and a half, came to Noui.

Noui is a little strong towne belonging to the Genuesi,* 1.173 and Frontier to the Milanesi. Its some twelue miles distant from Tortona the first frontier towne of the State of Milan: and because these Fron∣tiers were then pestered with Ban∣dits, a noble man of Genua, who was in our company, beggd of the Gouernour of Noui, a Couuoy for himself and vs to secure vs to Tortona: The Gouernour presently granted

vs a Conuoye of eight or ten horse∣men: but those very men he gaue vs for our Conuoye, were Bandits themselues, who being banished from the State and towne of Genua for their misdemenours, had two months a yeare allowed them to come freely into frontier townes, and negotiate with the State. These men were thought by the Gouernour to be our safest gards in danger, who were the onely men that caused danger. Hauing been thus conuoyed safely by out honest rogues past all danger, we payed them some three Pistoles; and feard no more danger, till we should meet with such seruants as these another time. I confesse, it seemed at first à fearfull thing, to see our selues in the hands of those, who had their hands often in blood: yet there is such a charme in a Go∣uernours parole, that we thought our selues as well armed with it, as if we had been shot-free, and had had all the Spells of Lapland about vs.* 1.174

We had no sooner parted from these our guards, but passing ouer

a little riuer on horsback, we en∣tred into the Milanese, land came at night to Tortona a strong fron∣tier towne of the Milanese, where Charles the VIII of France, in his returne from the conquest of Naples, beat the Venitians and the Milanesi in a battle.

From Tortana we went the next day to Pauia, the second towne of the state of Milan, and once the Seat of twelue Kings of the Longobards.* 1.175 It stands vpon the riuer Ticinum, and hence its also called in Latin Ticinum.* 1.176 Heres an Ʋniuersity, either founded or furnished at first, with readers, or by readers of the Vni∣uersity of Oxeford. The Cheif Col∣ledges are, that of Pius Quintus, and that of S. Charles Boromaeus. The other remarkable things here, are. 1 The Domo, in which lyeth buryed the body of a holy Bishop of this towne, called Sauli,* 1.177 who was con∣temporary to S. Charles Borromaeus and of the same Pastoral spirit and zeale. Neare the great doore of this Church (on the inside) they show you a little mast of a boate which

they make ignorant people beleeue (for sport) to haue been the Lance of Orlando Furioso.

* 1.1782 Neare the Domo, in the Piaz∣za, stands A Brazen statue, which some affirme to be the Statue of Constantin the Great; others, more probably, of Antoninus Pius. It was brought from Rauenna hither by victory; and it had like to haue been carryed back againe to Ra∣uenna by Victory. For Lotrech the French general in the takeing of this towne haueing granted this Statue to a soldier of Ra∣uenna (who serued vnder him, and who haueing mounted the breach first, asked nothing for his recompence, but that statue taken anciently from his natiue towne) Yet afterwards moued with the genero∣sity of the townsmen (who hauing left all things else with some pa∣tience, to the prey of the soldiers, burst into tears when they heard that this statue was to be taken from them) Lotrech changed his gift to the soldier, & left the Ci∣tizens of Pauia their deare Statue.

3. I saw the Augustins Church,* 1.179 where the body of that great Father of the Church S. Augustin lyeth buryed.* 1.180 It was translated hither out of Sardinia by Luitprandus King of the Longobards; an arme of which S. Augustin a King of England redeemed at a great rate,* 1.181 and yet cheap too, if it where his writeing arme, wherewith he wrote such admirable bookes. The new Tombe in the Sacristy is all of white marble most exquisitly carued with historical statues representing the most remarkable actions of that Doctor.

4 In the same Church we were showne the Tombe of Seuerinus Boëtius author of that great little booke de Consolatione Philosophica which he wrote in his exile,* 1.182 to com∣fort himself. He was a Consul of Rome for dignity, an other S. Denys for learning & loosing his head;* 1.183 and held a Martyr by many.

5 In the Cloister of this Conuent of the Augustins, lye buryed two Englishmen of note, the Duke of suffolke, and an English Bishop cal∣led

Parker of the house of Morley, I read their seueral Epitaphs vpon the wall of this Cloister neare the little doore that goes from hence into the Church, but haue forgot them since.

6 The Chappel where the Bones of the Frenchmen killed in the Battle of Pauia are kept and showne to strangers.

7 In the Franciscans Church here, lyes buryed Baldus the famous Iu∣risconsult.

8 The long wodden Bridge couered ouer head with a perpe∣tuall penthouse, to deffend men as well from the Sun, as from the rayne.

* 1.184Of this towne were Ennodius Ti∣cinensis, and Lanfrancus Archbishop of Canterbury, who wrot so lear∣nedly against Berengarius for the Reall Presence.

* 1.185He that desires to know the par∣ticular history of Pauia, let him read Antonio Spelta, and Sacco.

From Pauia we went to Milan same twenty miles off; and in the way, saw the famous Monastery of

the Carthusians, neare vnto which, vpon S. Mathias his day (a day fauorable to Charles the V, seeing he was borne on that day;* 1.186 crowned Emperour on that day; and got this Victory on that day) was fought that memorable battle between the sayd Emperours forces, and the French King, an. 1525. where Francis the I. of France was taken prisoner, haueing lost the day, not for want of courage, but conduct: for he had a little before, sent away halfe of his army to the conquest of Naples; by which he so weakened the rest of his army here, that he both lost the day,* 1.187 and did nothing against the kingdome of Naples; A great fault, obserued by one that was present there, to wit, Monsieur Monluc. Francis being thus taken prisoner was presently conducted to the Carthusians Monastery, which was hard by. Entering into the Church, and finding the Monks singing in the third houre this verse of the Psalme, Coagulatum est si∣cut lac cor eorum, egovero legem tuam meditatus sum, he struck up with

them at the next verse, and sung aloud with a piety as great, as his losse, or courage, Bonum mihi quia humiliasti me, vt discam iustifica∣tiones tuas: that is, its well for mee, that thou hast humbled me, that I may learne thy iustifications. After he had heard Masse here, he was carryed to dinner in the Monastery, and was serued by three Generals of the Spanish Army, Launoy, Bourbon, and the Marquis of Vasti: the one holding the basin, the second powring water vpon his hands; and the third presenting him the Towel. Some say he refused to bee serued by Bourbon, looking vpon him as a revolted Trayter, rather then as an ennemy: indeed the braue Frënch Knight Bayard (surnamed, the Cheualier sans peur who died in this battle,) being found expireing in the feild, by Bourbon, who sayd to him, Poore Bayard! I pitty thee; answered him with all the courage and life that was left him; No, Traytor, J am not to be pittyed, who dye nobly seruing my King and country: but thou rather art to be pittied, who

liuest à Traytor to thy king and country. As for the King he was led prisoner into Spayne, where he was kept at Madrid till he payed his ransom. Hence the Spaniards brag, that they had once a French king prisoner, and the French had neuer any King of Spayne prisoner: but the French answer, that their King had not been prisoner had he fought as the Kings of Spayne do of late, that is, by Proxie, and not in person. Howeuer this Francis the first de∣serued better fortune, being A Prince of great courage and honour, and a great louer of his souldiers. For not long before, he had beaten the Swissers in the battle of San Donato, where his souldiers fought for him with singular courage and zeale. And hee had deserued it all: For he was so good to his souldiers in that expedition, that he would ride vp and downe the campe in the night, to visit the wounded souldiers, and help them to all necessaries; commanding euen His owne sheets to be cut in peeces to binde vp their wound••.

* 1.188As for the Monastery it self of the Charthusians, its one of the most stately Monasteries of Jtaly, and I beleeue, the second of that Order. The great Cloister is all couered with lead. The Church is one of the hansomest of Italy, though built a la Tedesca. The Frontispice of it is adorned with a world of heads and figures of white marble. The Chappels within are richly adorned and painted. The Tabernacle is worth fourscore thousand crownes. The tombe of their founder, Iohn Galeazzo Visconti Duke of Milan, which stands a little without the Quire, with the cumbent statues of Ludouico Moro the last Duke of Mi∣lan and his wife, lyeing vnder the other, is a stately Monument. In the Sacristy we were showne many fine Relicks, much rich Church-plate, and a curious back of an Altar of Yuory cut into histories after a rare māner.

Passing from hence we came to Milan.* 1.189 This towne is surnamed the Great; and rightly, seing it carryes full ten miles in compasse within the walls. It hath ten gates

to it; two hundred Churches with∣in it, and three hundred thou∣sand souls dwelling in it. Hence it was anciently called Altera Roma a second Rome,* 1.190 both because of its greatness, and because of its other titles, which made it looke like Rome. Its the Head of the best Dutchy in Europe, which is a hun∣dred miles long from North to South, and containeth four hundred townes in it. Its called Milan quasi Midland, being a pure Mediterra∣nean Towne, and hauing (which is a wonder) not so much as a riuer of its owne running by it; but is onely serued by two Channels cut out of the Ticine and the Adder. This towne hath heretofore suffered much by warre; great townes being the fairest Markes to shoot at, and Milan hath been forty times shot at by Sieges, and twenty times Hit and taken, haueing had the misfor∣tune to haue been vnder diuers fac∣tions and Rulers: as the Emperours, the Turriani, the Visconti, the Sforze, the French, and the Spaniards, who now keep it, mercè al Castello, which

staueth of all tempts of strangers. France pretends to this Dutchy as heire of Valentia Visconty, who was marryed to Lewis Duke of Orleans, whose house was excluded from this Dutchy by Francis Sforza, who possessed himself of this State.

As for the things which I saw in Milan, they are these.

* 1.1911. The store of Gentry and No∣bility here, which I perceiued to be very numerous, because of a hundred coaches (no hackneys) which I saw standing before a Church vpon a priuate Festiual day of that Church.

* 1.1922. Great store of Artisans, as Goldsmiths, Armourers, Gunsmiths Weauers, silk stocking makers, Re∣finers of Gold, those that worke in Crystal, and a world of others: which giue occasion to the Prouerb, which sayth, that hee that would improue all Italy, must destroy Milan first: for if Milan were destroyed, the many artizans that are there, would spread ouer all Italy, and furnish the other townes, which want artizans.

3. The Churches here, and first

that of S. Ambrose,* 1.193 where that glo∣rious Father of the Church refused stoutly to Theodosius the Emperour, entrance vnto that Church,* 1.194 because of his passionate commanding the Massacre at Thessalonia, where seauen thousand men were murder∣ed for the fault of a few. Vnder the high Altar of this Church lyeth the body of S. Ambrose; as also the bodyes of S. Geruasius and Prota∣sius, two primitiue Saints, whose bo∣dyes were found whiles S. Austin liued at Milan,* 1.195 and who also re∣lates a famous and knowne miracle to haue been wrought by God, at the Translation of those holy Mar∣tyrs bodyes into this Church. In this Church also is seen vpon a high Pillar of a round forme, a Brazen Serpent, like that erected by Moy∣ses in the Desert and commanded by God himself to be made.* 1.196 I ima∣gin it was set vp here for the same end, for which it was commanded by God to be set vp mystically in the desert, that is, to put men in mind of our Sauiours exaltation vpon the Crosse for mankind,* 1.197 the frequent

memory of which is a Souerain an∣tidote against the stings of the infer∣nal serpent the Diuel.

4. Neare vnto the foresayd Church of S. Ambrose, stands the little Chappel, where S. Augustin with his little Adeodatus and his freind Alippius was baptized, as the words ouer the Altar testify; and from this little Chappel S. Am∣brose and S. Augustin (now a Chris∣tian) going processionaly to the Great Church, made the Hymne Te Deum,* 1.198 as they went; one makeing one Verse, the other another.

5. The other little Chappel on the other side of S. Ambrose his Church, is built vpon the place where S. Augustin was first con∣uerted by a voyce which sayd to him, Tolle lege: Tolle lege: mean∣ing S. Paul Epistles: which he doing, pitched iust vpon those words to the Romans, Non in cubilibus & impudicitiis,* 1.199 sed induimini Iesum Christum &c. And so of an im∣pure Manichean, hee became a chast Christian.

6. I saw adioyning to this Church

of S. Ambrose the Stately Mona∣stery,* 1.200 with two curious Cloisters built vpon round pillars. This Mo∣nastery, as well as S. Ambrose his Church, belongs to the Cistertian Monks.

7.* 1.201 Then I saw the Church of S. Victor belonging to the Oliuetan Fathers; with the admirable picture of S. George killing the Dragon, of the hand of Raphael Vrbin. This is a neat Church when it is adorned in its best hangings, as it was when I saw it. The double Cloisters here of the Monastery built vpon round pillars ought to be seen.

8.* 1.202 In the Church of S. Nazarius are to be seen the Tombes of the Triuultii: stately Monuments.

9. In the Church of S. Eustorgius I saw the Arca, or old Tombe, in which reposed the bodyes of the three Magi who came to adore our Sauiour in Bethleem,* 1.203 whose bodyes were translated from hence to Colen in Germany, where I haue seen them, by reason of the Destruc∣tion of Milan.

10. I saw also the Church of S.

Laurence, built like that of Sanctae Sophia in Constantinople. Here lyes buryed Placidia the Sister of Hono∣rius the Emperour.

11. There are diuers other Churches here, all worth particu∣lar visiting, by reason of some rare thing in them: as in that of S. Mark, the rare peece of Simon Magus his fall from the skyes. In that of the Passion the rare picture of the last Supper, by Christophoro Cibo. In that of S. Celso, a rare picture of Raphaels hand in the Sa∣cristy. The Theatins, and the Iesuits Churches are very neat.

12. But the best of all the Churches of Milan is the new Domo,* 1.204 in the midst of which lyeth buryed the new S. Ambrose of Milan; I meane S. Charles Borromaeus, an other S. Ambrose in Pastoral dignity, zeale, and sanctity. This Church I take to be the second in Italy for solid worke; being built all of white mar∣ble, with Iles and Pillars, Each Pillar worth ten thousand crownes, & there are a hundred and threescore

such Pillars in all,* 1.205 of massiue white marble; not candied and frozen ouer with a thin crust of marble, as most of the other fine Churches of Italy are. There are also six hun∣dred white marble statues set round about the outside of this Church, each of them cost a thousand crownes. That of S. Bartholomeus with his skin vpon his arme; and that of Adam, are two peeces much admired, and are of the hand of Chri∣stophero Cibo. The Frontispice is not yet finished: but if that be the true designe of it, which I haue seen in pictures, in the Capucins Cloister in Rome, it will be most stately. The Church it self is sayd to be 250 cubits long. Neare the Quire, and almost in the middle of the Church, lyeth the body S. Charles Borromaeus in a low vault, turned now into a Chappel, open at the top with low rayles round about it; The inside of this Chappel is hung with hangings of cloth of gold, ouer which runns a cornish of syluer plat nayled to the wall. Vpon the Altar, lyeth the body of S. Charles at length in

a fair Crystal coffin made of seueral great squars of cristal, through which (the wodden Caze being opened by special leaue from the Archbishop) we saw his body lyeing all a long in his Episcopal robes. His face, hands, and feet, are onely seen, and his nose and lipps are shrunck and parched. The true picture of this Saint Hangs at the entrance below into this Chappel▪ and his history and wonderfull acti∣ons are hung vp in painting round about the Church on high. Ouer the high Altar, in the Very roof of the Church, is kept one of the Nailes of the Crosse of our Sauiour,* 1.206 giuen anciently to the Milanesi by the Em∣perour Theodosius. There burne al∣wayes before it a number of little Lampes, set in crosse wise, and drawne vp thither with a pully, to shew the people where that holy Relick is. In fine The Steeple of this Church is not to be Forgotten. Its not quite finished yet, but its high enough to tyre any man, and to shew him from the top of it, the whole towne of Milan, the whole compasse and

circumference of the rare Castle; and the whole country round about for Twenty miles on euery side: a sight to pleasant, that I would wish my Traueler, not onely to mount vp to the top of this Steeple, but (for this Steeples sake) to make it his constant practise (as I did) to mount vp the chief Steeple of all great townes.

13.* 1.207 The great Hospital built in a quadrangle vpon arches and round pillars is a most magnificent thing. Really if sickness where not a little vnwholesome and troublesome, a man would almost wish to be a little sick here, where a King, though in health, might lodge hansomely. The place where the sick people are kept, is built crossewise, and in the middle of that crosse, stands an open Altar where all the sick people from their seueral quarters and from their very beds, may heare the Diuine seruice at once. Four thousand men are entertained dayly in this Hospital, and there∣fore it hath great reuenews. S. Charles was a great benefactor to

it, and gaue away to it, and other pious vses, in half an hour, fiue and twenty thousand crownes of inheritance, which were fallen to him (being a man of eminent birth) half an houre before. Indeed he had no other wife then his Church, nor other children then the poore.

* 1.20814. The stately Seminary; and the Colledge for the Swissers, are noble buildings,* 1.209 and the Eternal workes of the foresayd. S. Charles.

15. The Lazzaretto is a Vast building, carrying in compasse a thousand and eight hundred yards. It stands neare the towne walls, yet out of the towne,* 1.210 and it is to receiue into it Those that are sick of the plague. There are as many chambers in it, as there are dayes in the yeare. In the middle of the squar of this vast court, or quadrangle, stands a round Chappel, couered at the top, but open on all sides in such a manner, as that all the people from their seueral cham∣bers and beds, may behold the Priest saying diuine seruice, and joyne their

deuotions to his. I haue read in the life of S. Charles Borromaeus, that in a plague time, he visited those that were infected, and ministred the holy Sacraments to them himself in person; and went in a solemne Pro∣cession in the head of the Clergy, with a rope about his neck, and barefoot vpon the stones, to moue stony hearts to repentance, and to appease the wrath of God angry with his people.

16. The Biblotheca Ambrosiana is one of the best Libraries in Italy,* 1.211 because it is not so coy as the others, which scarce let themselues be seen; wheras this opens its dores pub∣likly to all comers and goers, and suffers Them to read what book they please. It was begun to be builded by S. Charles, and continued by his Nephew Cardinal Federico Borromaeo: but it was much aug∣mented since by the accession of Vincentius Pinellis books, which after his death, being shipped by his heirs for Naples, and taken by the Turks, were many of them throwne ouer board by those anal∣phabet

Rogues, who looked for other merchandize then books. Yet many of them were recouered againe for money, and set vp here. Ouer the heads of the highest shelues, are set up the pictures of learned men, a thing of more cost, then profit; seing with that cost many more books might haue been bought, and learned men are best ••een in their books and writings. Loquere, vt te videam.

* 1.21217. Behind the Library stands the Gallery of pictures, where I saw many choyce Originals of prime masters, and some exquisit Coppies, as those four peeces of the four Elements, which certainly are cop∣pied after those that I described aboue in the house of the Dutchesse of Sauoy neare Turin, called la Valentine. But the rarest peece of all, either in the Library, or here, is the rare Manuscript kept here, of Alberto Dureo. Three hundred pounds haue been refused for it.

* 1.21318. The Dominicans Library is very considerable too. But you must not omit to see the Refectory

here, where you shall finde an admirable picture of the last supper, made by Rare Laurentius Vincius. The painted Cloister here deserues a visit too.

19.* 1.214 The Monastery also called the Gratie, is one of the best in Europe, in whose Church is a rare picture of Christ crowned with thorns of the hand of Titian.

20. The famous Gallery and cu∣riosities of Canonico Setali,* 1.215 farr better then that of Monsieur Seruier in Lyons, of which aboue. And here I wish my pen were as ingenious to describe all the rare things of this Gallery, as the noble Canon setali hath been in gathering them, and courteous in shewing them: some of these curious things I yet remem∣ber, for my Readers sake; as a great variety of burning glasses, and yet not Conuexe, as ours ordinarily are; one of them set fire presently to a peece of board an inch thick that was brought forth. 2. A Man∣dragora. 3. a bird without feet called by Aristotle Apodes. 4. a stone out of which is drawne a thread, which

being spun and wouen, makes a stuff like linnen indeed, but of an incombustible nature: The stone is called Asbestos, and the stuff Amy∣anthus, which being fowle and soyled, is not be made cleane by washing in water, but by throwing into the fire. Baltazar Bonifacius in his Historia Ludicra tells of many who had such stuff. 5. a world of rare Meddals of the old Consuls and Emperours in syluer, gold, and brasse, makeing diuers series. 6. a world of woodden things, as also fruits, and fungi, all petrifyed and turned into stone; and yet no meta∣morphosis neither, the things re∣taining their pristin formes. 7. Di∣uers curious clocks, whereof one shews the time of the day (strang) euen in the night by a quadran. 8. The little round Cabinet flat aboue, like a childs drum, with a smooth glasse: The master setting little ships, coaches, &c. vpon the glasse, they wheele and moue vp and downe as it were of themselues: when all is done by a sympathetical vertue and by the masters turning secretly

a little wheele where there is fasten∣ed some loadstone, and the little ships and coaches hauing also some peece of iron in their bottoms which touch the glasse; and so the iron running after the loadstone moued by the wheele, makes these shipps and coaches seem to moue of themselues. 9. A peece of a thunder∣bolt, which the Canon himself sayd he had cut out of a mans thigh strucken with it. 10. Diuers peeces of Co∣ral iust as it growes in the Sea. 11. A little Pillar two handfull high of marble, so carcked, that it gapeth wide on one side with the crack, and yet holdeth together fast on the other side, as a great stick of green wood doth, when it is bent so farre on one side as to gape, and yet sticks together on the other. 12. A world of rich iewels, strange stones, cameos, pictures, crys∣tals, little infants in waxe in glasse cases, and many other exotick rari∣tyes, which are better seen then de∣scribed.

21. Some Pallaces here:* 1.216 as that of the Gouernours, rather vast then

curiours; and fitter to lodge Regi∣ments of Gards in, them Viceroys. The Pallace of Marini is of a noble structure. That of the Archbishop is very hansome. I saw also the Pal∣lace of the Borromaei painted within at the entrace, with the Motto of S. Charles (who was of this family) HVMILITAS. Its related in the life of this Holy Prelate that in twenty years space that he was Arch∣bishop and Cardinal here, he went but twice to visit his owne neare Relations in this Pallace, and de∣scended but twice into his owne garden in his Archiepiscopal Pal∣lace: so much worke found he it to play the part of an Archbishop well. The Pallaces also of the Visconti of the Sfortii, of the Triuultii, and many others, deserue to be seen exactly.

22. The Castle,* 1.217 or Citadelle, one of the best in Europe, in the opinion of the Duke of Rohan a competent jugde. It stands within and without the towne, that is, at the back of the towne, like a rod

tyed at the childs back, to keep him in awe. Its garded by a gar∣rison of fiue hundred natural Spa∣niars with a special Gouernour of its owne, independent of the Gouer∣nour of Milan. It lookes more like a towne, then a Castle; being a mile and a halfe about, and furnish∣ed withall conueniences a soldier can require. The large streets in it; the stately houses and Pallaces for the chief commanders; the neat piazzas; the number of well fur∣nished shops in all kindes, euen goldsmiths too; the fiue fountaines, or Wells, not to be dryed vp; the Mill; the Hospital; the Church; with eight or ten Chaplains in it, and a Curate; the faire place of armes capable of six thousand men; two hundred great peeces of Cannon vpon the walls; the six Royal bas∣tions, the regular fortifications or outworks; the vnderground way from one bastion to an other; the infinit heaps of Cannon bullets, some whereof weigh 800 pound weight; the three large and deep ditches round about the Castle; the stately

entrance gate, and two strong towers, make this Castle one of the most Caualier curiositys a man can see in Italy. They shewed me here the Cannon which killed Mareshal Crequy before Breme, and for that seruice its allowed to rest here for euer.

* 1.21823. The shops of Crystals, where you haue a world of curiositys in crystal: as watch cases, twizercases, little boxes, pictures cut in crystal, crosses and beads of crystal &c. The shops also of silkstockings which are hugely esteemed in Italy be∣cause they are twice as strong as ours, and very massiue. The shops, in fine, of embroderers, whose em∣broderie in gold and syluer is the best in the world, and the cheapest.

* 1.21924. Here is an Academy of wits, called the Nascosti, or Hidden men. But Why Hidden? seing Wit, like the Sun, should shine publick∣ly, and not bury it self; except it be to shew vs, that as the Sun neuer shins brighter, then after he hath been hidden in a Cloud: so wit neuer shins more, then after

it hath been hidden in Study. Hence was that saying of a graue Philosopher, Absconde vitam; that is, lye hidden a while, at the dug of the booke. Indeed Demosthenes caused his hair to be shaued off, that by that deformity he might be ashamed to go abroad, and so bee obliged to study at home. As for this Academy, it helps much to animate with wit this great towne, which otherwise would looke like Polyphemus (hauing lost his eye) great, but blinde. Tumor, non est magnitudo.

25.* 1.220 The most famous men of this towne for learning, haue been these: Valerius Maximus for history: Alciatus, Decius, and Iason for Law: Cardan for Philosophy: Panigarola, and Paulus Aresius, for Sermons: Bonacina for Canon Law; and Octauius Ferrarius (whom I knew lately in Padua) for belle lettere.

26. Two other men here are fa∣mous for other things;* 1.221 to wit Vberto Crucio, and Gulielmo Pus••erula; the first so strong,* 1.222 that he could stop a horse in his full gallop with one

hand; lift vp vpon his back a horse loaden with corne; and stand so stifly vpon his leggs, that no man, though running against him with all his force, could push him out of his place or posture.* 1.223 The other without any learning at all, except his first Grammar Rudiments, could with his natural wit onely, decide law cases, and make such good orders, that the best Lawyers could not finde what to adde to them, or what to diminish from them. Its pitty these two men had not been melted into one, to haue made one excellent man, by their clubbing wit and force together, and their mingling of Sana mens, with Cor∣pore sano.

* 1.224The Reuenues that Spayne dawes from Milan yearly, are two millions and four hundred thousand crownes: besides the thirds, to which they are obliged in time of warre.

* 1.225This state for a need, can rayse fifty thousand men.

* 1.226He that desires to know the His∣tory of Milan, let him read Corio of the history of Milan: Ripa∣montius,

Scipio Barbono, of the liues of the Duks of Milan; and Paolo Morigi.

Hauing this seen Milan in six dayes time, we tooke horse for Bologna, six dayes journey from hence, and passed through Ma∣rignano, Lodi, Piacenza, Parma, Regio, Modena, Fort Vrbano, and so to Bologna; of each I will say something.

Marignano is a little towne about ten miles distant from Milan,* 1.227 and from thence to Lodi the way is most pleasant, and leuel as an alley. Neare to this towne Francis the first of France fought with the Swissers a famous battle, and killed 16000 of them; and tooke Ludouicus Sforza the Duke of Milan, who thought to haue escaped in Swissers clothes, but was discouered.

Lodi is a good iust towne,* 1.228 and frontier vpon the Venitians, the riuer Adda runs vnder its walls. Its called Lodi either because its built vpon the ruines, or neare to old Lodi, which was called Laus Pompeia, because Pompey had re∣stored

it. This towne is famous for excellent neats tongues, and cheeses as big as mils••ones. A gentleman of this towne, caused four cheeses to be made each one weighing 500 pound weight. The people here mow their Hay three times a yeare; and I am affrayd they are powled as often with taxes.

* 1.229Piacenza, or Pleasance, deserues its name, by reason of its sweet si∣tuation in a rich country neare the Po and Trebia, two great riuers. Neare the last of which Hannibal ouercame Sempronius the Roman Consull. The country round about this towne, is very rich in pasturage: Hence their excellent cheeses and rare creame. It aboundeth also in Saltpits which afford no small profit. This towne belongs to the Duke of Parma.

* 1.230The best things to be seen here are, the Equestris statua of the second Alexander the Great, or the first Alexander of Parma. Its in brasse in the market place. The old Fountain made by Augustus Caesar. The rare picture of Raphaels

hand, in the Benedictius Church behind the high Altar. The Chur∣ches of the Dominicans, and the Canon Regulars are no contemp∣tible ones.

I obserued in this towne, a no∣table peece of thriftiness vsed by the Gentlewomen;* 1.231 who make no scruple, to be caried to their country bouses neare the towne, in coaches drawne by two Cowes yoaked together: These will carry the Signora a pretty round trot vnto her Villa, Ther afford her also a dish of their milk, and after collation, bring her home againe at night without spending a pen∣ny.

He that desires to know more of Piacenza,* 1.232 let him read Vmberto Loccati,

Of Piacenza where, Cornelius Musso Bishop of Bitonti a great Preacher and a Trent Father; as also Ferrante Pallauicini.

Parma belongs also to the Duke of Parma,* 1.233 of the house of Farnese. This Dutchy was giuen to Pier Luigi Farnese by Paulus III, vpon

condition it should hold of the Pope, and pay him yearly ten thow∣sand crownes. Its worth to the Duke two hundred thousand crownes. This towne of Parma is three miles in compasse, hath the riuer Parma running through it, ouer which is built a hāsome stone bridge. The country round about the towne is most fertill, and begets such credit to the Cheeses, that Parmesan Cheeses are famous ouer all the world.

* 1.234The Chief things so be seen in Parma, are these. The Dukes Pal∣lace, with the gardens, fountains, wildbeasts, the admirable Theater to exhibite Operas in. The ex∣quisite Coaches of the Duke; one whereof is all of beaten syluer, with the Seats and crutains em∣brodered with gold and syluer; an other so well guilt and adorned, that its almost as rich as the for∣mer▪ lastly the stables where I saw horses sutable both in strenght and beauty to the foresayd•• coaches.

* 1.235Then I went to the Domo, whose Cupola was painted by the rare

hand of Corregio.

Lastly to The Capucins,* 1.236 in whose Church lyes buryed my noble Heros, Alexander Farnese Duke of Parma,* 1.237 whom I cannot meet in this my voyage without a compliment. He was the Third Duke of Parma, but the Tenth worthy. Indeed his leaping the first man into the Turks Galleys in the battle of Lepantho, with Sword in hand, and in the eighteenth yeare onely of his age, was such a pro∣gnostik of his future worth; his re∣duceing Flanders againe, with the prodigious actions done by him at the takeing of Antweep, was such a makeing good of the prognostick;* 1.238 and his comeing into France in his slippers and Sedan to succour Rouen beseiged by Henry the IV, was such a crowning of all his other actions, that his history begets beleefe to Quintus Curtius, and makes men beleeue, that Alexanders can do any thing.

The Reuenues of this Prince are sayd to be six hundred thousand crownes a yeare.* 1.239 Hee is now of the

French faction;* 1.240 and in all his territories hee can rayse 28000 men.

Here is an Academy of wits call∣ed the Innominati,* 1.241 as they that had rather be wise, then be talked of, or famed for such.

This towne hath furnished Italy with two excellent Painters, Cor∣regio, and Parmigiano.

* 1.242He that would know the parti∣cular history of Parma, let him read Bonauentura Arrighi.

* 1.243From Parma we went to Regio a towne belonging to the Duke of Modena▪ here is a neat Cathedral Church, of which Church S. Pros∣per was Bishop. Of this towne were these three learned men, Guido Pan∣cirola, Cardinal Tosco, and snarl∣ing Casteluetro.

* 1.244Modena is the towne where the Duke keeps his Court. Its a han∣some towne, and by its high steeple shews it self to trauelers long before they come to it. It hath also a strong Cittadel, which lyeing flat and euen with the towne, showeth the towne that indeed it can be

euen with it, whensoeuer in shall rebell.

The Pallace of the Duke hath some rooms in it as neat, and ri••h, as any I saw in Jtaly; witness those Chambers hung round with the pic∣tures of those of his family, and wainscotted with great Looking Glasses and rich guilding.

This Duke is of the Family of Estè,* 1.245 but not of the true line. Wher∣fore, for want of lawfull heirs male, Ferrara and Commachio fell to the Church, in Clement the VIII time, and remain there euer since.

Of the true house of Estè, was the braue Countesse Matilda,* 1.246 the dry-Nurse, as I may say, of the Roman Church. For it was she defended Gregory the VII, against the Emperour Henry the VI, and brought him to aknowlegde his fault, and cry the Pope mercy. It was she also that by Will and Testament left the Pope, Parma, Regio, Mantua, and Ferrara. Hence Vrban the VIII, out of gratitude to this Princesse caused her Statue and Tombe to be set vp

S. Peters Church in Rome. The will and Testament of this Princesse, are kept in Lucca to his day.

* 1.247Hard by Modena was fought the famous battle, where Hirtius and Pansa being Consuls, the Senate lost in them its authority.

* 1.248Of Modena were these famous men in learning, Cardinal Sa∣doletus, Carolus Sigonius, and Ga∣briel Falopius.

In Modena are made the best visards for mascarads; and its no small profit which they draw from this foolish commodity, seing stul∣torum plena sunt omnia.

* 1.249The Reuenues of this Duke are three hundred thousand crownes a yeare; and he is now of the French faction. He can rayse 30000 men.

* 1.250From thence passing the riuer we came soone to Fort Vrban, a Cit∣tadel most regularly built by the command of Pope Vrban the VIII, from whom its called.* 1.251 Its so strong, that it is not afrayd to stand, night and day,* 1.252 alone in the fields, and vpon the frontiers of the Popes Estate. Passing from hence through

Castel Franco,* 1.253 anciently called, Forum Gallorum, we arriued be∣times at Bologna.

Bologna is one of the greatest townes of Italy,* 1.254 and one of the hansomest. Its the second of the Popes Dominions; and the Chief Vniuersity of Italy for Law. Hence the Iurists say it is Musarum domus, atque omnis nutricula Iuris, and the very common coyne of the country tells you that Bononia do∣cet.

Its named, by the Common Pro∣uerb, Bologna la grassa, because of the fertill foyle in which it stands, to wit in the very end of Lombardy; and the many springs which humect it from the Apennin hills, at whose feet it stands.

This country was anciently called Felsina, Gallia Cisalpina, Gallia Togata, to distinguish it from Gal∣lia Braccata, The country in France neare Narbonne, And from Gal∣lia Comata, The Country in France called la Guienne. In midling ages it was called Romagnola, because Bologna, Rauenna, Cezena, Forli,

Faenza, and Imola stood constant to the Citty of Rome against the Lombards, for a long time.

* 1.255As for the towne of Bologna now, its excellently well built▪ and for the most part, vpon arches, like the Couent Garden in London; onely the pillars are round. These Arches bring great conueniency to the in∣habitants who can walk all the towne ouer coole and dry, euen in Iuly and Ianuary. Its fiue miles in compasse, and an excellent sommer towne, were it not that the ayre is not altogether so pure, and the wines heating.* 1.256 Its gouerned By a Legat a Latere, sent hither by the Pope, and in change, it sends an Embassador to Rome, to reside there: so that Bologna is treated by Rome, rather like a Sister,* 1.257 then à Subject; and deserued∣ly, seing Bologna fell not to the Church any other way but by her free giuing her self to the Pope; reseruing onely to her self some particular Priuileges; as power to send Embassadors to Rome; and that if any towesman kill another,

and can but escape away, his goods cannot be confiscated.

I stayd six dayes here, in which time I saw these things.

1. The Dominicans Church and Conuent.* 1.258 In the Church, I saw the tombe of S. Dominick, Founder of that Order. Its all of white marble cut with curious figures relating to his life. In this Church is kept a fa∣mous manuscript, to wit, the Bible it self written in parchment by Es∣dras himself, sayth Leandro Alber∣to the Camden of Italy, and a Fryar of this Conuent. They shew you also here a curious Lampe sent to S. Dominicks tombe by the new conuerted Indians. Its of a most rare workmanship. Behind the high Altar stands the Quire so famous for the Seats, which are of a rare Mosaick work of coloured wood inlayd into pictures representing the old and new Testaments, and all wrought by one Laybrother called Fra Damiano di Bergamo. This kind of Mosaick work in wood was an∣ciently (sayth Vasari) called Tar∣sia, and in this kind of worke

Brunelleschi and Maiano did good things in Florence. But Iohn Vero∣nese improued it much afterwards by boyling wood into seueral co∣lours, and then inlaying it into what postures and figures he pleased. This Quire is showne to strangers as a rare thing; and worthily, since the Emperour Charles the V, had the curiosity to see it, and with the point of his dagger to try whether it were inlayd, or onely painted; and the peece which he picked out with his dagger, was neuer put in againe for a memorandum. In this Church, as also in the Chapterhouse and Cloister of this Conuent, lye buryed many Readers of the Law, who hauing liued here by the Law, dyed here also by the Law of Na∣ture.

* 1.2592. The Conuent here is one of the fairest in Europe, in which 150 Fryars constantly liue and study. The little Chappel, which was once S. Dominicks Chamber; the vast Dorm••tory; the fair Library; the great Refectory, and the curi∣ous Cellar are showne courteously

to strangers.

3. The Nunnery of Corpus Christi. Its of S. Clares Order, and famous for the body of Beata Catherina di Bologna▪ a most holy Nun of this Order and Conuent.* 1.260 I saw her body sitting straight vp in a chair, in her Religious habit: She holds her Rules in her right hand; and we see her face, and and feet plainly, but those black and dryed vp.

4. From hence I went on to the towne Gate,* 1.261 a little out of which gate lyes a faire street where they make the Corso of coaches in som∣mer euenings.

5. Turning from hence on the left hand, I went to S. Michael in Bosco a stately Monastery of Oliue∣tan Fathers,* 1.262 standing vpon a high hill. From this Hill I had a per∣fect view of Bologna vnder me, and of all the country about it; which being leuel and strowed with a world of white houses and Villas, looked like a Sea loaden with ships vnder sayl. Entring into this Mo∣nastery, I saw the Oual Court pain∣ted by seueral prime masters, of

which Guido Rheni of Bologna was one. Then mounting vp to the Dormitory, I found it to be one of the fairest I had euer seen.

* 1.2636. The Monastery, or Conuent of the Franciscans, with the rare row of pillars, and portico towards the street, the excellent Cloisters, and the curious Cellar.

7. The Monastery of S. Sal∣uatore with its two Vast Courts or double Cloister built vpon galleries aboue, its a noble building.

8. The Monastery of the Seruits, that of the Augustins, and that of the Carmelits are all of them such stately buildings, that I may boldly say, that no towne in Europe is comparable to Bologna for fair Mo∣nasterys.

* 1.2649. Then I visited San Petronio standing in the end of the great Piazza, of which Church Leandro Alberto writ a hundred years ago, that he thought it would not be ended but with the worlds end. And I am half of his opinion: for when I passed that way last I found the scaffolds yet standing, which I had

found there one and twenty years before; and yet in all my fiue Voy∣ages into Italy, I found them alwayes knocking and making as much noise and dust, as if this Church should be finished within half a yeare, when as yet half of it is onely finished. In this Church Charles the V. was crowned Empe∣rour by Clement the VII.

10. The Domo,* 1.265 which is not yet half funished neither: yet that which is finished promiseth fair for the rest.

11.* 1.266 The new Church of S. Paul hath a curious High Altar. In the Church of S. Giouanni in Monte is the rare picture of S. Cecily of the hand of Raphael Vrbin. The Iesu is Church, the Church of S. Stephen, and that of the Passion deserue to be seen.

12.* 1.267 After the Churches and Mona∣sterys, we went on with visiting the rest of the towne, and saw the Pallace of the Popes Legate: in this Pallace I saw the rare Cabinet and Study of Aldrouandus, to whom Pliny the Second if he were now

aliue,* 1.268 would but be Pliny the Sixt, for he hath printed six great volu∣mes of the natures of all things in nature, each volume being as big as all Plinyes workes. They shewed me here two or three hundred manuscripts, all of this mans owne hand writeing, and all of them Notes out of the best authors, out of which Notes hee compiled his six great Volumes which are now in print. Seeing these Manuscripts I asked whether the man had liued three hundred years, or no, as its sayd Ioannes de Temporibus, In Charles the greats time did: but it was answered me, that he liued one∣ly fourscore and three: a short age for such a long work: but it shew∣eth vs how farre a man may trauel in sciences in his life time, if he rise but betimes, and spurr on all his life time with obsti∣nate labour. Certainly had he wrote before Salomons time, Salomon would haue changed his saying, and instead of sending the slothfull man to learne of the pismire how to labour, he would haue sent him

to Aldrouandus his study and example: Vade ad Aldrouandum piger.

13. The Great Schooles here where the Doctours of the Vniuersity read are stately both within,* 1.269 and with∣out.

14. The Spanish Colledge founded here by noble Cardinal Albornozzo,* 1.270 deserues to be taken notice of. Its well built, with a hansome Church and fiue Priests to serue it. The intention of his Colledge is to furnish all the King of Spayns dominions in Italy with able Ma∣gistrats and officers of Iustice. None can liue in it but Natural Spani∣ards (except the Chaplains) and those Spaniards must be Doctors of the Law before they can be ad∣mitted here▪ they onely learne the language and customes of the coun∣tryes, and perfect themselues in the study of the Law, that they may bee fitt to fill vp the first vacant places of Iudicature that fall either in the State of Milan, in the king∣dome of Naples, or in Sicily. They haue a reuenew of twelue thousand

crownes a year. They keep two Coaches, liue very nobly, and lodge all Spanish Embassadors, Cardi∣nals, and Prelats of their nation that passe this way. In the Colledge you see the pictures of many great Statesmen and Cardinals, and others, who haue been of this Col∣ledge: but no picture pleased me like that of their braue founder noble Cardinal Albornozzo which is in the Church, and representing him in the same posture he was in, when he recouered all the Popes state in Italy, vnto the Pope then at Auignon; of which I haue spoken sufficiently aboue in describeing Auignon.

* 1.27115. The two Towers here in the midst of the towne, the one very high and straight cal∣led, de gli Asinelli; the other low and bending, called la Carisenda. They would make vs beleeue that this bending tower was made crook∣ed a purpose; and its strang to see how most men make it their business rather to see this low crook∣ed tower, then the other, which is hoth higher and straighter. But

thers no mastery to make things ill, and to misse of our aymes: and I rather think the Carissenda or low Tower, went not vp higher, because the Architect perceiued it went vp awry. But we strangers admire euery thing in strange countryes, and that makes that none admire vs: Vpon which occa∣sion I would wish my yong tra∣ueler neuer to admire any thing in outward shew, but to looke cu∣riously at euery thing without cry∣ing out, ô che Belae Cosa! This will get him and his Nation farre more honour, for Admiration is but the daughter of Ignorance; and Magnani∣mus, (saith Aristotle) nihil admiratur.

16. Then the Houses here,* 1.272 which are generally well built, and in Sommer time, setting open their dores & gates towards the street, you may looke quite through their courts, entryes, portches, houses, and a huge way into their gardens, which euen from thence, will salute your eye with dainty perspectiues, foun∣tains, and fresh verdure; and your nose too with curious smells of

Iesmin, and Orenge flowers, as they did mine often. Now the best Pal∣laces here are those of Maluezzi, Campeggi, Pepoli, Fachinetti, Cespi and others.

* 1.27317. These fine houses are full also of Nobility, and I remember to haue seen here at a Corsodi Paglio vpon Midsommer day the long great, street lined quite through with coa∣ches on both sides, & those coaches double lined with Ladyes and Ca∣ualiers of Garbo. Indeed it would be pitty, that such a stately towne as Bologna, should like Leyden in Holland, be full onely of Hanses and Boren.

18. Their traffick here consisteth much in silks,* 1.274 veluets, oliues, leather bottles, gellies, wash balls, and little doggs for Ladyes, which here are so little, that the Ladyes carrying them in their muffs, haue place enough for their hands too.

19. Their markets here are also exquisitly good for all prouisions of mouth,* 1.275 witness their salsiccie one∣ly whith are a regalo for a Prince.

20.* 1.276 But that you may not think them better fed, then taught; they haue erected here an Acadamy of wits called, Gli Otiosi, or, Jdle∣men, by a figure of Rhetorick called a Lye, or per antiphrasim, be∣cause they are not idle. Its this Academy (I beleeue) which hath helpt to set out three rare moderne writers of this towne,* 1.277 Cardinal Bentiuoglio, The Marquis of Mal∣uezzi, and Iohn Baptista Manzini; the first, the Titius Liuius of his age, the second, the Lucius Florus of his age; and the third, the Mar∣cus Tullius of his time. To whom I may add Leandro Alberti, the Chamden of Italy.

21. He that desires to know the particular history of Bologna, let him read Bartholomeo Gal••otti,* 1.278 and Giouanni Garzo, where hee shall finde how Bologna suffered much anciently by the two opposit facti∣ons of the Lambertazzi and the Geremei. But now they enjoy quiet and repose vnder the Pope.

Hauing thus seen Bolognia, and being armed with a Bolettina di

Sanita,* 1.279 taken here, to make vs be let passe into the State of Flo∣rence, we steered on horseback towards Florence and reacht it in two dayes. The first dayes journey by Pianora, Loiano, Scarga L'A∣zino, Pietra Mala, and ouer the Apennins,* 1.280 was long and tedious enough, till the night came, at which time we were much recre∣ated with the sight of a Fire which appeared some two miles off in the side of a montain on our left hand. This fire appears here frequently especially in clowdy wheather: and it appeared to mee for an hour together as I road along, to be still of the same bignesse, and of the same glowy colour (fornace like) and of a perfect round forme, and not py∣ramidal, as other flames are. The country people here call this fire, La Bocca d' Inferno, Hells mouth; and I knowe not why they may not as well call this fire so, as Tertul∣lian calls Vesuuius and Aetna (two burning montaines) Fumariola inferni,* 1.281 Hells chimneys. Taken in fine, with this fixed meteor, we

forgot the tediousness of the way and came to Fiorenzuola.* 1.282 The next morning passing by Scarperia and Il Ponte wee arriued betimes at Florence

I confesse, I stirred not out of my Inn that night, because fair Florence (as the Prouerb calls her) is not to be seen in fowle linnen,* 1.283 and rideing boots: but getting vp betimes the next morning, I gaue my eyes such a breakfast as Princes eyes would bee glad to feed vpon.

But before I come to the parti∣culars of what I saw in Florence, I will consider it in great, and then come to the Detail of it.* 1.284

Diuers good Authors are of opi∣nion that this towne was first built by Syllas soldiers, to whom he had giuen this soyle for their seruices done him in his Ciuil warrs. They built it neare the current of two riuers (Arno and Munio) and from thence it was called at first Flu∣entia (as Coblentz in Germany, from the meeting of riuers, is called Confluentia.) Afterwards by the In∣habitants it was called Florentia,

by reason of the fruitfull soyle which made it florish with all delicacies; as also for the florishing wits of the inhabitants, who were so fa∣mous anciently in point of witt, that the very Romans vsed to send their children first into Toscany, to be bred in learning and Religion, and then into greece to learne Greek and Philosophy.

Haueing enquired the name of this towne, I began to desire its better acquaintance, and attained it easily in a months space which I spent here: The things I obserued most were these.

* 1.2851. The Chappel of S. Laurence, which is the nearest thing that euer eye beheld. All the inside of it is to be ouercrusted with Iasper stones, of seueral colours and countryes, with other rich stones, all aboue marble, and all so neatly polished and shining, that the Art here ex∣ceeds the materials. This Chappel is round, and round about are to by fixed within the walls, as high as a man can reach, the Tombes of all the Great Dukes of Florence, in

a most gallant manner, and of most exquisit polished stones, with a great cushen of some richer stone, and a Ducal crowne of pretious stones reposeing vpon that cushen. Ouer these Tombes the Statues of all the Great ••ukes, at full length, and in their Ducal habits, all of brasse guilt, are to be placed in Niches round about the Chappel. The roof is to Vaulted all ouer with an ouercrusting of Lapis La∣zuli (a blew pretious stone with vaines of gold in it) which will make it looke like heauen it self. Between each tombe are inlayd in the walls, the armes, or Scutchions of the se∣ueral townes of the Great Dukes dominions, all blazoned according to their seueral colours in herauldry, by seueral pretious stones which compose them: and these are not made in little, but are fair great Scutchions made purposely of a larg sise for to fill vp the voyd places between the Tombes. The townes are these; Florence, Siena, Pisa, Liuorno, Volterra, Arezzo, Pistoia, Cortona, Monte Pulciano &c.

which contributed (I suppose) something each of them to this costly Fabrick in fine, this Chappel is so rich within with its owne shining bare walls, that it scorns all hang∣ings, painting, guilding, mosaick work, and such like helpers off of bare walls, because it can find no∣thing richer and hansomer then its owne pretious walls. Its now aboue threescore years since it was be∣gun, and there are ordinarily threescore men at work dayly here, and yet thers onely the Tombe of Ferdinand the Second perfectly fi∣nished. The very Cushen which lyeth vpon his Tombe, cost three∣score thousand crownes, by which you may gesse at the rest▪ indeed these stately Tombes make almost death it self looke louely, and dead mens ashes grow proud againe. As for the Altar and Ta∣bernacle of this Chappel, I will speak of them by and by, when I describe the Gallery of the Great Duke, where they are kept till the Chappel be finished.

2. The Church of S. Laurence,

which belongs to this Chappel,* 1.286 or rather to which this chappel be∣longs; is a very hansom church de∣signed by Brunellischi himself. The things that grace this church are the neat double row of round pillars which hold vp the roof of this Fabrick. The picture ouer the Quire painted in the roof, repre∣senting the genaral judgement, Its a bold peece and of Pontorno: The two Brazen pulpits wrought into hystorys by rare Donatello: The curious designed picture of S. Anne and our Blessed Lady, in chiaro e oscuro, by Fra Bartolomeo, commonly called Del Frate, is so wel a designed peece, that a Duke of Mantua, haueing seen it, offered to buy it at any rate, but was re∣fused. The new Sacristy (made to serue the fine Chappel described aboue) deserues to be carefully vi∣sited, because of the bodyes of the Princes of the Family of Medices, which are depositated here, till the Chappel mentioned aboue, be finished. In this new Sacristy also are seen, the four statues made by

Michael Angelo representing The Day, the Night, Aurora, and the Euening; the four parts which compose Time, by which all men are brought to their Graues: That which represents Night, is a rare statue, and hugely cryed vp by all Sculptors and Virtuosi. See also in the Wall of the old Sacristy the neat Tombe of Iohn and Peter Me∣dices sonns of Cosmus surnamed Pater Patriae; Its the worke of Andrea Varochio. In the midst of this Church, before the High Altar, lyes buryed Cosmus Pater Patriae the Rayser of the Medicean fa∣mily. In the Cloister ioyning to this Church, is erected the Statue of Paulus Iouius the Historian; and neare to this statue you mount vp a pair of stairs to the rare Library of Manuscripts called,* 1.287 Bibliotheca Laurentiana, the Catalogue of whose bookes is printed at Amsterdame an: 1622, in octauo.

* 1.2883. The Gallery of the old Pallace. This is that Gallery so famous, and so frequently Visited by all Strangers. At your entrance into this Gallery,

you see a Vast long roome made like an L: on the left hand of this Gallery, there runns a perpetual glasse window; on the other side are set a row of pictures in great, of those of the Medicean Family: vnder the windowes, and also vnder the sayd Pictures stand a row of curious Marble statues, ancient ones all, and of prime hands. Ouer the sayd windowes and Pictures runns a close row of lesse Pictures, representing to the life, the most fa∣mous men of later times for learn∣ing, and Armes; the soldiers being on the right hand, and the schol∣lers on the left. The statues afore∣sayd are well nigh a hundred in all, but all rare ones: Some whereof I yet remember, and they are these: That of Leda, of Diana, of Bac∣chus, of Hercules, of the Gladiator standing on his gard, of Scipio Africanus in brasse, shewing the ancient habit and dresse of the old Romans, farre different from our modes: that of a little yong youth in brasse with his sword in his hand: that of a little boy sleeping vpon a

touchstone: The head of Cicero in marble: that of Seneca: the Head of Michael Angelo Bonarota in brasse of his owne hand makeing: in fine, the head of Brutus one of Caesars murderers; It was begun in marble by Michael Angelo, but informedly; and so left by him: If you will know the reason why he finished it not, read the distick written in brasse vnder this head by the sayd sculptor himself, thus:

M. Dum Bruti effigiem Sculptor A. de marmore ducit, B. In mentem sceleris Venit, & F. abstinuit.

The four corner letters signifying that Michael Angelus Bonarota Fecit.* 1.289 Among the pictures, I tooke particular notice of these Souldiers, of Hannibal that frighted Rome: of Scipio that tooke Carthage and vanquished Hannibal: of Pyrrhus that made the Romans glad to make peace with him: of Scanderbeg that made the Great Turk afrayd to fight with him: of Venerius that helpt to winn the battle of Lepento: of Alexander Farnese that neuer lost battle:

of Cortesius that found out new coun∣tryes: of Magellanus that found out new Seas▪ of Andrea D'Oria who beat the French by Sea: of Gaston de Foix who had beat the Spaniards by land if he had but knowne how to vse his Victory: of the Duke of Alua, who onely la∣mented deying that he had neuer fought a pitchd battle with the Turks: of Anne de Montmorency who dyeing was glad to dye in a pitchd batle against the Hugonots: of Eccelino the Paduan Tyrant, of whom no man can Speak any good: of Castrucio of whom no man can speake any ill; with a world of other braue Heros with whose true lookes I was very glad to be acquainted.* 1.290 Among the pictures of the learned men I tooke particular notice of these Italians, to wit, Petrarck, Ariosto, Ioannes Casa, Poggio, Macchiauel, Guiciardin, Paulo Iouio, Sanna∣zario, Bocaccio, Platina, Brunel∣leschi, Michael Angelo, Raphael Vrbin, Columbus, Americus, and Galileo, with many others too long to relate, and too many to be re∣memberd.

Hauing thus gazed our fill at these statues and pictures, and by particular taking notice of-them, complimented the great Worthyes they represent, we where let into the great Cabinets, or Cham∣bers which joyne vpon this Gallery.

* 1.291First, we saw the Armory, that is, three or four great cham∣bers full of exotick curiosityes: as, the habits of two Indian Kings made of Parrats Feathers sowed together: the habits of some Ia∣nissaryes in Turky, of read veluet set thick with little nayles of gold, which they can take out and dresse vp other sutes with: the habit of the King of China: the skin of a horse pasted vpon a woodden horse, the mane of which horse is kept there in a box all at length, and it is aboue fiue elles long: This horse had been sent to the Great Duke by the Duke of Lorraine. Then we were showne Hannibals Helmet: the Helmet of Charles the V; the sword of Henry the IV of France; a curious Helmet thin and light, and yet of musket proof; a huge

heauy Helmet and sword of one of the old Paladins of France; the true sword of Scanderbeg, a world of Cimetars, scabards, capps, saddles and other Turkish furniture set thick with Turquoises in gold; a great gunn, whose thick barrel is of pure gold, and yet as long as an ordinary fowling peece, and as heauy as a strong man can well leuel with: its valued at 1500 pis∣tols, and shoots twice as farre as another gunn of iron doth, but kills (I beleeue) with the same payne that others do, though with a little more honour. Here is a great pistol of gold. Then the buona notte, or set of pistols (fiue pistol barrels set together in an iron Frame) to put into your hat, and to be all shot off at once from thence, as you seem to salute your enemy and bid him, Good night. The pistol with eighteen barrels in it, all to be shot off at once and scattering desperatly about a Roome▪ six little cannons set in starre wise. The little Brasse Cannon which may be taken in peeces presently, and set together

as soone, and so be carryed easily into any steeple, or tower: such Cannons as these might easily be carryed in deep countryes, and ouer high mountains, euery Soldier car∣rying a peece. The statue in brasse of the King of Spayne, Philip the fourth on horseback, iust of the bigness of that of gold which the Great Duke sent to the sayd King of Spayne for a present; It was made by rare Iohn di Bologna. Then I saw the armour for horse and man of two Kings of Persia. The armour of the Great Duke Ferdinand, a goodly man. The King of Swedes Cornet taken in Germany in a battle. The buckler with the Medusas head on it, painted by Michael Angelo. A Turkish Bell to ring in time of battle. A horne vsed in Turkey to call men to their Moskyes instead of bells, as we haue. The head of a halbard ringing like a bell. A halbard to fould vp in three, and to carry vnder your cloake priuatly. A staff of a white cane, in which are curiously engrauen in black, the

hystoryes of the Apocalipse. It was the Duke of Vrbins. In fine, the loadstone holding vp threescore pound weight of iron, and holding one key to an other, for a matter of fiue, or six keyes.

After the armory, we were let into the fiue Cabinets full of pretious iewels,* 1.292 pictures, and other rare cu∣riosityes. In the first Cabinet, I was showne a curious Clandlestick to hang vp in the middle of a roome with seueral branches spreading from it, and all of yellow Amber, including within it a world of little figures of white marble or waxe, neatly cut in little, and appearing through the transparent yellow am∣ber: This Candlestick was giuen by the Duchesse of Lunebourg, to the Duke of Saxony, and by him to Prince Mathias brother to this Great Duke of Florence. In the same Cabinet I saw a Table of po∣lished stones of seueral colours and lustre, inlayd into birds and flowers. The head of Tiberius Caesar in one Turky stone, as big as a Ducks egg, and of an inestimable value. A cu∣rious

cabinet, or two, of yuory cupps brought out of Germany by Prince Matthias. In the same Cabinet I saw the picture of Cardinal Bembo in a neat Mosaick work; and an other peece of diuers birds in mo∣saick also, rarely done by Marcel∣lus Prouincialis. I saw also there di∣uers little old Pagan Idols in iron; and brasse. A designe of Raphaels owne hand; and some good pictures.

In the 2 Cabinet I saw two great Globes; which were made in this roome, being too great euer to be carryed out, or brought into it by the doore.* 1.293 I saw also here a cu∣rious table of polished stones repre∣senting a towne in Bohemia, w••th diuers pictures of men, horses, and Landskips: where there is a tree represented most naturally, because it is represented by the very wood of a tree Petrifyed into stone, and looking like wood as it was; and shinning like polishd stone, as it now is. The statues, or bustos of three or four of the Great Dukes, in Porphyry. A curious looking glasse ouer the inside of the doore, which

placed directly ouer the picture of a man, contracts into it the picture of a woman (that mans wife) which you see plainly in it: drawing thus Eue out of Adam againe by a cu∣rious reflexion.

In the 3 Cabinet I was showne a curious table of polished stones re∣presenting perfectly the towne and hauen of Ligorne.* 1.294 A great Cabinet of Ebeny beset with pretious stones on the outside, and with the histo∣ry of the holy Scriptures curiously expressed in miniature in seueral little squars of rich stones set here and there. In the top of it, there is a German clock, now out of or∣der, and no man dare mend it. Within this great Cabinet I saw the passion of our Sauiour curiously cut by Michael Angelo in yuory (say they) but I beleeue its in white waxe. There is also in it the figures of our Sauiour and his twelue A∣postles in yellow amber with their heads in white amber: All these se∣ueral peeces are not seen at once, but come vp into sight one after another, as the man turns them.

This Ebeny Cabinet was sent ••o the great Duke by the Duke of Ba∣uaria, and its valued at fourscore thousand crownes: I beleeue, if it were to be sold, it would not yeeld forty thousand crownes; but its han∣some, sayth Seneca, for those that receiue courtesies, to value them high. Here are also some pictures of great value, as the Adam and Eue of the hand of Alberto Dureo, an original peece valued at 1500 crownes. An original Venus of Ti∣tian, that in the Poggio Imperiale here (of which below) looking but like a good coppy of this. Here are also seueral Persian chairs, and other good originals of prime hands.

In the 4. Cabinet, called Jl Tribuno we saw more riches then in all the others. This Tribuno is a great roome built roūd with a Cupola, whose vault is painted with a deep sanguin red, set full with the shells of Mother of pearle.* 1.295 The walls of this roome are hung with green silk, and loa∣den with excellent pictures of the prime masters of the world, Titian, Raphael, Andrea del Sarto, Vinci,

Hans Holbain, Vandike and others. The S. John Baptist is of Raphaels hand; as is also that of Leo the X. with two Cardinals, Iulio Medici, & Cardinal Rossi behinde him. The picture of Southwell priuie Coun∣selour to Henry the VIII, is of the hand of rare Hans Holbain. The picture of our Lady with our Saui∣our in her armes is of the hand of Andreo del Sarto. The picture of Cardinal Bentiuoglio sitting in a chair, is of the hand of Vandike. There is also a rare picture in mi∣niature of Giulio Glorios hand, and three fair peeces in miniature of an Augustin Friar yet liuing, and a man of great esteeme; hauing taken the right course to be famous, that is, to make but few peeces, but these finished with all the patience which miniature requires. In this tribuno I saw also the famous Nayle half gold, half iron, made by the famous Alchimist Thurnheuser. They shewed me also a great lump of gold, not yet stamped into coyne; two shells of Mother of pearle with their two pearles still sticking to

them, and iust as they grow: The Pearles, are rich pearles and round. The two peeces of Emmeraud-rock, the one scarce formed yet into perfect Emmeraud, but onely begun: the other quite finished and green. Then two close cupbords within the walls of this roome, in which I saw a world of curious cupps and Vases of crystal, Agate, Lapis Lazuli, and other such curious, but brickle matter, yet of rare fa∣brick and shape: They value them at two hundred thousand crownes. The Vnicorns horne, and the ala∣baster pillar are not to be forgotten. The great Cabinet of Ebeny stan∣ding at the further end of this Tri∣buno, full of ancient meddals of gold syluer, and brasse, of the ancient Consuls, and Emperors, all digested into their seuerall series; and yet this Cabinet is almost as rich with∣out, as it contains riches within; being set without with pretious stones of a vast biggness and value; to wit, a Saphir as broad as a twenty shilings peece, and half an niche thick; a ruby full as great, but farre

richer; an emmeraud not inferiour to the rest; a pearle as big as an or∣dinary wallnut; a world of Dia∣monds and other lesser stones, but all of so great value, that this Ca∣binet, with that which is in it, is valued to be worth fiue hundred thousand crownes. Lastly, I saw here the great round table made of inlayd pretious stones, polished neat∣ly; a table able to make the most hungry stomack forget its gumb∣ing, to feed its eyes vpon the vnroasted birds which together with curious flowers compose this admi∣rable table; Pearles, Rubies, Saphirs, Cornelians, Emmerauds, Lapis Lazuly &c. are employed here artificially to the makeing of these birds & flowers. Youl conceiue better of this table when I shall tell you that it is worth a hundred thou∣sand crownes, and that it was fiftheen yeares in makeing, and yet thirty men wrought at it dayly.* 1.296 In the midst of it is the great Balle of the Armes of the Duke of Flo∣rence in pretious stones.

The 5. Cabinet standing at the

further end of this Gallery, con∣taineth the Altar and Tabernacle, which are to be set vp in the new Chappel of S. Laurence described aboue. Hauing viewed them six seuerall times exactly (as I did) you will perchance be of my opi∣nion, that this Tabernacle made for to keep the Blessed Sacrament in, is able, or nothing is able, to make a mends in same sort, to our Sa∣uiour for his course lodgeing in Bethleem, when he was borne in a stable and lodged in a manger. The crystal pillars curiously wrought, and being a full elle long, with their Capitelli of pure gold: the four like pictures of pretious stones which were fiue yeares each of them in cutting: the Variety of other pretious stones set thick here and there, and of great size: the neat contexture of other polished stones of seuetall colours and lus∣tre: the pictures of inlayd pretious stones, which compose the Ante∣pendium of the Altar: the variety of rich Cameos which are set here and there, and cut into pictures: in

fine, the whole composure of this Altar and Tabernacle, being the height of wit and riches, I can neither describe enough, nor you admire sufficiently.

4.* 1.297 Hauing thus seen the Gal∣lery and adioyning Cabinets, I was presently led into another quarter of this Pallace, where I saw the Great Dukes Argentaria, or Plate. Entring into this great squar room, I saw twelue great cupbords as high as the roome, sett with ex∣cellent plate in all kindes. In one of them they shewed me a whole ser∣uice of beaten gold, as dishes, plats, forks, spoones, knifes, with a world of other rich vessells set in gold; also little pictures in miniature; curious little Cabinets beset with gold and iewels; a Turkish Cimetar whose handle and scabbard of gold, are thick set with diamonds and pretious stones; two other swords with their hilts of gold curiously wrought with Diamonds; a Dagger sutable to one of them and of the same richness; a great Crosse set think with Diamonds, and other pretious

stones; a rare cup of one great Em∣meraud, with a couer to it of the same; a basin and Eure of gold set very thick with Turky stones. In an∣other Cupbords I saw great variety of syluer plate in all kindes. In an other, they shewed me a saddle and bridle with stirops of gold, all set thick with Turky stones, Diamonds, Pearls, and other rich stones, with the saddle clot••, or housse, all em∣brodered with Gold and Pearle: this was a present from the Empe∣rour to the Grand Duke. In an other cupbord they shewed me the four great syluer bedposts enameld here and there, and set with polished stones of diuers colours: They were made for the marriage bed of the now Great Princesse daughter to the late Duke of Orleans. In an other they shewed me a curious Antependium for an Altar, all of beaten gold set with Pearle, pretious stones, and the picture of Cosmus the second in the mid∣dle of it, of curious enameled work, with his Ducal crowne set with Diamonds very richly; all

along this Antependium aboue, runns an Inscription in letters com∣posed of many rubies, each letter being two fingars long, and import∣ing these words:

COSMVS II DEI GRATIA MAG∣NVS DVX ETVRIAE EX VOTO.

In another cupbord I was showne the foot of an Elan, and a Visard all set, and couered with Turky stones.* 1.298

5. Descending from hence, we where led into the great Hall of this pallace, a vast roome painted on all sides of the Walls with bold painting, representing the Victoires of the Florentins anciently. Here it is that on midsommer day, the country people come and dance be∣fore the Great Duke, and the best dancers are recompenced with an honorable reward.

6. From hence I was let into the long Corridor,* 1.299 or close Gallery which runns from the new Pal∣lace to the old, ouer the riuer, and ouer the topps of houses; for the space of half a mile, with many turnings and windings. Its very vsefull for the Prince when he will

go see his pretious Treasure in the old Pallace, or els go priuately and heare how iustice is ministred there. For the Great Duke Francis gaue order to Buontalenti, a rare Architect, to break a window from this Corridor into the great roome in the old pallace, where the magistrats render iustice, but yet so priuately that none should perceiue it. The Ar∣chitect did it, by setting vp there the Dukes armes at large, and breaking a window behinde them so imperceptibly, that the Great Duke through the little holes made in the six boules of his armes, could both heare and see how Iustice was rendered there by his officers. And one day hearing a poore wo∣man oppressed by an vniust sen∣tence, he sent for the Iudges, and reprehending them seuerely, he reuersed the former sentence, and hearing the cause a new himself, pronunced Sentence for the poore woman.

* 1.3007. This long Corridor led vs to the new Pallace, called the Palazzo di Piti, because it was begun to

be built by Luca Piti, after the de∣signe of Brunellischi: but the ex∣pences growing too great for Pitis purce, it was bought by the mother of great Cosmus the II, and after∣wards carryed on by her to that perfection we now see it in, and which makes it one of the prime pallaces of Europe. The designe of it (for it is not yet all quite built▪ is to be a perfect Roman H, with double roomes on all sides. As you ascend vp to it, by an easy ascent from the street, it presents you with a fair broad side of building, in which I counted two and twenty great windows all in a row, and all a like, and all of them cheekt vp on either Fide by Sine stone pillars. The fashion of building in this pallace, as in most of the best pal∣laces of Florence, is that which they call in architecture, la ma∣niera rustica; where great freestones are made aduanceing a little one ouer the other. Entering into the Pallace, we saw the fair court; and in the end of it, the Grotta or foun∣tain with a larg basin, in which

they keep fish for present vse. This Court is squar, and open onely on one side towards the gar∣den, but hedged in with a high terrasse of stone, whose top is leuel with the ground of the garden.* 1.301 Beyond this terrasse and court, lyes a fine green spot of ground leuel with the first story of the pal∣lace, and half compassed about with a demicircle of laurel trees high and thick. Vnder these trees of the demicircle, rise vp stone seats, six rowes high, like the seats in an Amphitheater; and capable of two thousand men, who may all sit here with ease, and behold the sports of Caualry which are often exhibited vpon this fair green spot of ground by the nobility: the Great Duke and the Court behold∣ing all this from the windows of the pallace, while the rest of the nobility and Ladyes are seated con∣ueniently in the Amphitheater vn∣der the trees. The rest of this gar∣den is curiously setforth with thickets of bayes, close shady walkes, fine high open walkes ouer

looking both the towne and coun∣try, great ponds of water, a world of statues of marble and stone, a rare round basin of water, with fountains and much wetting sport; the place for birds and beasts; the curious Ice house and coole Cellar vnder it, where the melting ice dropping downe vpon the barrels of wine, refresh it so exceedingly, that in all my life time I neuer drunck so coole, as I did at the tap in this cellar. But to returne againe to the pallace, from whence this garden hath led me; from the garden, we ascended into the cham∣bers of the Great Dukes apperti∣ment,* 1.302 and found them most sump∣tuous, both for contriuance and fur∣niture. Some of them are painted ouer head by Pietro di Cortona the prime painter now liuing: others expect his returne againe from Rome, and scorne to be painted by any hand but his: in another cham∣ber, we were showne the history of Saleucus giuing to his onely sonn Antiochus (languishing and pincing away with the loue of his mother

in law) his owne beloued wife Stra∣tonica; shewing by this strange, and vnick example, that paternal loue is greater then Conjugal. All this is rarely painted vpon the wall ouer the hangings.* 1.303 In another cham∣ber (the Great Dukes chamber of Audienc) I saw a sute of hangings Valewed at a hundred and fifty thousand crownes: The Ground of them is cloth of gold, vpon which are embrodered a world of birds, beasts, flowers, trees, riuers, Land-skips in silk and syluer; and in such a rich manner, that I take this to one of the fairest sutes of hangings in Europe. In an other chamber here, I saw a rare collection of pictures, all originals, and of the best hands in the world, Titians, Raphaels, Michael Angelos, Andrea del Sar∣tos, and many others. The best of them is that of Raphael, and painted by his owne hand. This is the best collection of pictures that euer I saw, and it belongs to Prince Leopold the Great Dukes brother, and a great Virtuoso. In the Great Dutcesses chamber, I saw

half a dozen of excellent peeces of Raphael and others. In another chamber (The Dukes Bedchamber) we saw his curious Thermometers, or weather glasses, which are most curious. In an other chamber (the doores being set open for the Nonce) we looked through sixteen cham∣bers at once, and all of them faire great roomes vpon one floore. And after all the roomes of this house (as, the coole low sommer roomes, the masking roome, the seueral appar∣timents of the Great Prince sonn of the Great Duke, and of Car∣dinal Iohn Carlo, Prince Matthias, and Prince Leopold all three bro∣thers of the Great Duke, and all lodgeing at once in this great Pal∣lace) by special fauour, we got the sight of the Great Dukes faire Di∣amond,* 1.304 which he alwayes keeps vnder lock and key. Its absolutly the fairest in Europe, It weigheth 138 charats, and its almost an inch thick: and then our iewellers will tell you what its worth. I am sure Monsieur Simonet in Lyons (a fa∣mous ieweller) to whom I shewed

the weight and thickness of it, va∣lewed in to be richly worth a hund∣red thousand crownes between marchant and marchant, and a hundred and fifty thousand crownes between Prince and Prince.

* 1.3058. Going from the Great Dukes Pallace, we fell presently vpon the Augustins Church. This is a neat Church designed by Brunelleschi, and much beautifyed with hansome pillars. The Tabernacle and High Altar cost a hundred thousand crownes, and yeeld to few in Italy for neatness and state. Behinde the High Altar in the very end of the Church, is a rare picture of our Sauiour absoluing the poore woman catched in adultery. The confu∣sion that appeares in the face of this woman, makes it appeare what a rare painter Allori was, who made this picture.

* 1.3069. Passing from hence ouer the bridge (where foure white marble statues representing the four seasons of the yeare stand, all made by Michael Angelo) we came to the Piazza of the Gran Duca, where

I saw the Equestris statue of Cosmus the Great in Bronze, with his Vic∣toryes and prime actions in the pedestal, of the same mettal. At the corner of the old pallace in this Piazza, stands the braue Fountain, with a Neptune, Tritons, and Ne∣reides. Neare the gates of the pal∣lace here, stand two statues of more then Gygant can bulk: that of Da∣uid is the hand of Michael Angelo: and that of Hercules killing Cacus is of the hand of Bandinelli. The other statues here in the Portico hard by, are much cryed vp for rare peeces, as that of Perseus in brasse; that of the rapt of the Sabins, in marble; and that of Iudith in brasse holding a sword in one hand, and Holofernes his head in the other.

10. Looking vp from this Piaz∣za to the top of the pallace, I be∣held the high Tower mounted thereupon. Its a hundred and fifty yards from the ground, and which is the wonder, it hath no other foundation then the wall of the pal∣lace and the top of the house: Hence its sayd, that the Florentins haue three

wonderfull Towers:* 1.307 one in the ayr'•• to wit, this Tower: an other in the water, to wit the Fanal of Ligorne: and the third in the Earth, to wit, the Campanile of Florence, whose foundations are exceeding deep in the ground.

11. Going from the Piazza towards the Domo, we were pre∣sently stopt by the Church of S. Michael a square flat Church,* 1.308 whose outside is adorned with rare statues, if not of gold, yet worth their weight it gold. The best are▪ that of S. Matthew in brasse made by Laurentius Cion: that of S. Tho∣mas in brasse thouching the side of our Sauiour with great demon∣stration of diffidence in his lookes, is of Andrea Varrochios hand. That of S. Peter in marble is excellent for the Drappery of it. That of S. George in marble, is compared to to the best in Rome, and hath been praysed both in Prose and verse: that of S. Marke hath so graue and honest a countenance, that Mi∣chel Angelo (a competent iudge) stopping one day to behold it, and

being asked what he thought of it, answered: if S. Marke had Such a countenance as this, as its likely he had, a man might almost, for his lookes sake, beleeue all that he wrott: for neuer did I see (sayd hee) any man haue more the lookes of a good man, then this.

12. Going from hence we were presently at the Domo.* 1.309 This, I beleeue, was the finest Church in Italy when it was built. It was an∣ciently called S. Reparatas Church; but since it is called Santa Maria Florida, a fit name for the Cathe∣dral of Florence. The foundations and architecture of it were contriue∣ed by Arrolfo di Lapo, a Dutch∣man, and a la maniera rustica, sayth Vasari of it, In his lifes of painters. Its one of the neatest Churches without, that I euer beheld; being elad in white, red, and black mar∣ble, but its onely white plastered within, with pillars of a darke co∣loured freestone. What if the Ar∣chitect of this Church were some∣what of Diogenes his minde? and as Diogenes thought the world

would be turned vp side downe one day; so this Architect thought that the world would be turned inside out one day, and that then his Church would bee the fairest in the world, and all lined with marble: As it is, it lookes a little hypocritically; though the struc∣ture within be of a notable con∣triuance. On the top of it stands mounted a fair Cupola (or Tholus) made by Brunelleschi a Florentin.* 1.310 This was the first Cupola in Eu∣rope; and therefore the more admi∣rable for hauing no Idea after which it was framed; and for being the Idea of that of S. Peters in Rome, after which so many yong Cupolas in Rome, and els where, haue been made since. Hence it is sayd, that Michael Angelo comeing now and then to Florence (his natiue coun∣try) whiles he was makeing the Cupola in Rome of S. Peters Church, and viewing attentiuely this Cupola of Florence, vsed to say to it; Como te non voglio: meglio di te non posso. Its sayd also that Brunelleschi makeing this Cupola caused Ta∣uerns,

cookeshops, and lodgeings, to be set vp in it, that the workmen might finde all things necessary there, and not spend time in going vp and downe: and he had reason: for this Cupola from the ground be∣low, to the top of all the Lanterne, is two hundred and two Braccie, or yards high. The straight passage from the top of the cupola to the round brasen ball, is thirty six yards high. The Ball is four yards wide, and capable of four and twenty men: and the crosse at the top of this ball, is eight yards long. The straight passage vp to the Ball is neatly contriued, like a round chymney of white marble, with hols on both sides, and brazen steeps crosse those holes, to climbe vp easily, by hand and foote, the passage being clane and smooth. From the top of this Cupola, takeing a perfect view of Florence vnder vs▪ and of the whole country about it, with the sight of two thousand Villas or country houses scattered here and there, round about the towne, we came downe againe to view the inside of this

Church. It is about three hundred foot long, from the great doore to the Quire, and from thence to the end almost two hundred more. The Quire is round, and perpen∣dicularly vnder the Cupola, being of the same bigness: and vpon so∣lemne dayes when the wax candles are lighted round about it, it lookes gloriously: otherwise in wintertime it seems too dark. The High Al∣tar, which stands in this Quire, is plain, like those of ancient Cathe∣drals, and adorned with a rare sta∣tue of a dead Christ in white marble made by the hand of Bandinelli. Looking vp from the Quire to the Cupola, you see it painted on the inside with the representation of heauen, hell and Purgatory. The painters were Georgio Vasari and Thaddeo Zucchari. Behinde the high Altar are the rare statues of Adam and Eue, by the hand of Bandinelli. neare the doore of the Sacristy, you may read an inscription, importing how that in this towne of Florence had been held a General Ceuncell,

where the Revnion of the Latin and Greek Church had been made. The golden Diploma of this vnion writ∣ten both in Latin and Greek, and subscribed vnto by the hands of the Pope and Cardinals on the one side; and by the Emperour of Constantinople with the Patriarch of Constantinople and the Greek Bis∣hops on the other side;* 1.311 and authen∣ticated by the leaden seale of the Pope, and the golden seale of the sayd Emperour, is kept in the Ar∣chiuiis or Registers of Bologna.* 1.312 In this Council both the Pope of Rome Eugenius the IV. and Paleologus the Emperour of Constantinople, were present, with the creame of Bishops, both of the Easterne, and Westerne Churches; and in this Councell not onely the Procession of the Holy Ghost from the Father and the Sonn was vindicated; but also Purgatory was proued to the Greeks out of their owne Greek Fathers, as well as out of the Latin Fathers; and diuers other points of coremony and practise were asserted and made good. Vnto all which the sayd Emperour

and Patriarch, and the other Greek Bishops (except restless Marcus Ephe∣sinus) subscribed; as did also the Armenians, Ethiopians, Georgians, and Iacobites, who all hereupon were admitted to Communion by the Roman Church. In fine, in this Church you see the statues of diuers Saints who haue been Archbishops of this towne; and the Tombes of diuers famous men; as of Marsilius Ficinus the Platonick Christian Phi∣losopher: of Dante the Florentin Poët, whose true picture is yet to be seen here in a red gowne: of Ioan∣nes Acutius an English Knight and General anciently of the Pisani, as the old Gothick letters set high vp∣on the wall vnder his picture on horseback,* 1.313 told me. Yet Verstegan will not haue him to haue been cal∣led S^r. John Sharpe, but S ^r. John Haukwood. But it imports little to me what his name was,* 1.314 seing he was a braue Englishman, and de∣serued to haue his tombe and in∣scription here, and his picture among the other worthyes in the Dukes Gallery. Heres also in this Church

the tombe of Brunelleschi, or Phi∣lippus Brunaltius, who made the Cupola of this Church: as also the tombe of Giotto, who made the Campanile, or fine steeple here. In fine here lyes also Cimabue the fa∣mous painter of his time.* 1.315 It was hee that first restored painting again which had been lost for many years in Italy, and taught it to Giotto, Gaddi, Taffi and others who carryed it on to a great height.

13.* 1.316 Neare to the Domo stands the Campanile, or high Steeple of Florence made by Giotto. Its a hundred and fifty braccie, or little yards high, and half as deep in the ground. Its flat at top, and crusted all ouer with curious little polished marble stones, marble pillars, and statues: so that (as Charles the V. sayd of it) if it had a case to couer it withall and hinder it from beeing seen too frequently, men would flock thi∣ther at the takeing off of this couer, as to see a wonder. Indeed its a kind of wonder to see, that in three hundred years space, not the least part of that steeple (all crust••d ouer

with marble) is perished. There are diuers good statues on all sides of it, but the best of them all is that of the Zuccone, or bald man, made by Donatello, which hee him∣self esteemed so much, that when he would affirme any thing seri∣ously, he vsed to say: Alla fe ch'io porto al mio Zuccone: and the same Donatello hauing finished it, spoke to it in iest, and sayd: Fauella, horsu, fauella; o ti venga il ca••a∣sangue: such good conceits haue fantastical men of themselues and their owne works.

* 1.31714. Neare to the Domo also, standes the Baptistery, or round Church of S. Iohn, where all the children of the towne are baptized. The brazen dores of it (three in all) are admirable, especialy that which lookes towards the Great Church, of which Michel Angelo being asked his opinion, answered, that it was so well made, that it might stand at the entrance of Paradise. These dores are all of Brasse his∣toried into figures, containing the

remarkable historyes of both the Testamen••s. They were the worke of braue Laurentius Cion, who spent fifty yeares in makeing them: a long time, I confesse; but this is it which Apelles called aeternitati pingere, to worke things that will out-last brasse and be famous for euer. Within this Baptisiery, I saw a statue of S. Mary Magdalen of the hand of Donatello; and its a rare peece; if you consider Magdalen in her pennance. Heres also a neat Tombe of Baltassar Cossa, once called Iohn the XXIIII, but deposed in the Council of Constance, for the peace of the Church. The Tombe of this Baltassar looking something like a cradle, may be called the cradle of the greatness of the Medicean Fa∣mily. For some writers say, that Cosmus Medices surnamed after∣wards, Pater Patriae,* 1.318 being heire of this Baltassar Cossa (who died at Florence, In the house of Iohn Medices) With the money that he found belonging to him after his death, did such good deeds to the

people, that he wonne to him self the name of Pater Patriae; and to his Family, that credit, which got it afterwards the supreame command.

15. I cannot omit here to take notice of a little round pillar in the Piazza, neare this Baptistery, with the figure of a tree in iron nayled to it, and old words engrauen vpon it importing, that in this very place stood anciently an Elmetree, which being touched casualy by the hearse of S. Zenobius, as they carryed it here in procession, the tree pre∣sently hereupon budded forth with green leaues of sweet odour though in the month of Ianuary. In me∣mory of which miracle, this pillar was set vp in the same place for a memorial.

16. From thence going to the Church of S. Mark belonging to the Dominicans,* 1.319 I saw there the Tombe of S. Antoninus Archbishop once of this towne, and a Fryar of this order. The Tombe is vnder the Altar in a neat Chappel on the left hand, made by Iohn di Bologna. In this Church also I saw a rare picture of

S. Mark, made by Bartholomeo del Frate, it stands full in your sight as you enter into the Church; and a man must be blind not to see it, and dull not to like it. On the left hand, as you enter into the Church is the Tombe of Picus Mi∣randula commondly called the Phoenix of Princes, with this Epi∣taph written vpon the side of the Wall,

Ioannes iacet hîc Mirandula, cae∣tera norunt Et Tagus & Ganges, forsan & An∣tipodes.

Neare this tombe is a fine picture vpon an Altar, where two Little Angels are made playing vpon Mu∣sical instruments. These Angels are held to be the rarest peeces that can be seen in painting. They are of the hand of Bartholomeo del Frate. In the Conuent of these Fryars I saw often their still house, where they make, and sell, excellent extrac∣tions and cordiall waters. There is also a neat Library here filled with good books.

17. Turning from hence on the

seft hand, I came presently to the Annuntiata,* 1.320 a place of great deuo∣tion. The pictures of Faith and Cha∣rity ouer the Arch in the Antiporto, or open portch built vpon pillars, are of the hand of Iacomo Pontorno being but yet nineteen years old; which when Michel Angelo first saw, he sayd: This Iacomo if he continue thus, will carry vp paint∣ing to the skies. Entring into the little court that stands before the Church dore, you see it painted round about in Fresco by rare hands. Those peeces that Andrea del Sarto made, are the best, and his head in white marble, is set in the wall. In the cloyster, ouer the dore that goes into the Church is seen a rare picture in fresco vpon the wall•• of the hand of Andrea del Sarto. It represents our B. Lady with our Sauiour vpon her knee, and S. Io∣seph in a cumbent posture leaning upon a sack full stufft, and reading in a booke. The picture of the Blessed Virgin is admirable for sweetness and majesty. This picture is called La Madonna del Sacco,

it got Andrea such credit, that Ti∣tian himself preferred it before all the peeces he had euer seen, and vsed often to say: that it grieued him, that he could not often satiate his sight with the beholding of so rare a picture: and Michel Angelo talking once in Rome with Raphael Vrbin concerning painters, sayd thus to him: There is vn huom••e••tto, a little fellow in Florence (meaning this Andrea) who had he been employed in great matters as thou art, would make thee sweat againe. Virtuosi make a great dispute which of those three painters was the most excellent: Raphael Vrbin, Mi∣chel Angelo, or Andrea del Sarto. But the wisest giue euery one his particu¦lar praise or excellency: Raphael was excellent in colori: Michel Angelo in designe: and Andrea in makeing things seeme to be of rilieuo, and looke as God made them, that is, pulpy and riseing vp like liuing flesh. Haueing thus admired the worke of Andrea we entred into the Church of the Annunciata, and there saw the curious syluer Altar, behind

vpon the wall, is kept the mira∣culous picture of the Annunciation which giues the name of Annun∣ciata to this Church. The little picture of our Sauiour, about a foot and a half long, which is seen vpon the outside of the Tabernacle, is of the foresayd Andreas hand, & much esteemed. In this Church lyeth buryed Baccio Bandinelli a famous Sculptor, in a curious marble tombe, with his owne, and his wifes picture, engrauen in marble by his owne hand. Behinde the Quire lyes bury∣ed Ioannes di Bologna, a famous Sculptor also, as his seueral works in Florence shew him to haue been; as the Rapt of the Sabins, Before the old pallace. The Centaure in the streets. The Chappel of S. An∣toninus in S. Markes Church. This Chappel in the Annunciata here; and the golden horse and man spoken of aboue in the Dukes Armory, do wittness.

18. From hence hauing first seen the Statue of the Great Duke Fer∣dinand on horseback in brasse, which stands in the piazza before the

Annunciata, I went to the Church of the Franciscans, called Santa Croce.* 1.321 This Church is of a large bulk and height, but somewhat too darke. The side Altars are many, and cheeked with round pillars, and adorned with excellent pictures. The pulpit would become A Chry∣sostome, or A Chrysologue: Its of white marble, in which are grauen the most notable actions of S. Fran∣cis in a basso rilieuo. I neuer beheld it, but I found some new graces in it. Somewhat behinde it, neere to a little doore, is the Tombe of Mi∣chel Angelo, the Trismegist of Italy, being the greatest Painter, the great∣est Sculptor, the greatest Archi∣tect of his time. Hence ouer his tombe, and vnder his picture, are placed three women in white marble, representing Architecture, Painting, and Sculpture, holding in their hands the seueral instruments be∣longing to these professions. If you aske me whether of the two, Paint∣ing, or Sculpture, is to be preferr∣ed, though a blind man being chosen iudge once of this question,

when he was giuen to vnderstand that in the smooth painting there were head, armes, leggs, hands and feet, as well as in the bulky statue which he had felt, iudged presently for painting; yet Michel Angelo himself preferred Sculpture before painting, as the body is to be preferred before the superficies of a body. But to returne againe to the Tombe of this great artist, I found some words vpon the tombestone, but those so dull and hard to be read in that darke corner, that one in the company chose rather to make him a new Epitaphe, then read that which is written there: and it was this:

Cur indignemur mortales morte perire? Ecce, stupor mundi! hîc Angelus ipso perit.

And I think the moderne Roman was of the same mind too, when he chose also to make him this Epitaph:

Roma mihi mortem tribuit, Floren∣tia vitam. Nemo aliis vellet nasci, & obire, locis.

In the midst of this Church I found buryed an English Bishop called Catrick, who had been Embassador here from England, and likely in the time of the Council of Florence. His armes were three catts argent in a sable field. In fine, at the very end of this Church, on the left hand, stands a neat chappel with a painted Cupola, belonging to the family of the Nicolini, in which Chappel there are excellent statues and pictures.

19.* 1.322 Not farre from hence stands the Abbadia, an Abbey of Benedic∣tin Monks. In the Church is the tombe of the Founder of this Abbey a German nobleman called Conte Hugo, who commanded Toscany vnder the Emperor Otho the III. The occasion of building this Mo∣nastery and many others by this Hugo, is too long to tell, and per∣chance would not finde beleef eue∣ry where. Its told publickly euery yeare vpon S. Thomas his day in high Masse time here, by some one or other of the chief witts of the Aca∣demy of the Crusca; and he thats

curious to know it, may heare it there, as I did, with great satis∣faction.

* 1.32320. From thence I went to the Church of Santa Maria Nouella belonging to the Dominicans. Here it is, that the Councell of Florence, spoken of aboue, was held. There are many good pictures in this Church, as also diuers neat tombes of holy men and women, and others: among which that of Ioseph Patri∣arch of Constantinople, who had been the blessed occasion and instrument of reduceing the Greek Church to the right faith againe, is remark∣able. Its on the right side of the Church.

* 1.32421. Returning from hence along the riuer side, we came to the high pillar with the Statue of Iustice in porphyry vpon it. It was erected here, because it was in this very place where Cosmus the great, heard the news of the reduction of Siena. A witty nobleman seeing this statue of Iustice vpon so high a pillar, sayd that Iustice here was too high place∣ed, for poore men to arriue to it.

An other obserued, that Iustice there turnes her back to the Courts of Iustice, which stand not farre from thence.

22. Hauing thus visited the chief things in the towne, I visited some places out of the towne; and chiefly, the Poggio Jmperiale,* 1.325 a Villa belong∣ing to the Great Dutchesse, and about a good mile distant from the towne. In this house I saw rare pictures, and great store of them, the house being furnished with no∣thing els. In one gallery are the true pictures of diuers late Princes of the house of Austria, of the house of Medices, and of other Princes their Allyes. In other roomes we saw a world of rare pictures, as the Venus of Titian, though I think it be but a coppy: the admirable S. Hierome of Alberto Dureo: a Magdalen of Raphaels hand: a S. Iohn Baptist of Carauagios hand: an Adam and Eue of Alberto Du∣reo: the Piety of Pietro Perugino, that is, the picture of our Blessed Lady with our Sauiour dead vpon her knee; S. Iohn Euangelist and

three other persons standing, or kneeling by, with weeping faces and most sad lookes; its one of the most moueing peeces that I euer beheld. Then the picture of the Assumption of our Lady in the Chappel, of the hand of Andrea del Sarto; with a world of other most exquisit pictures. The little neate Oratory in this house, called the Oratory of the Great Dutchesse, curiously inlayd into flowers by polished stones of diuers colours; that is, a whole closet of shineing marble inlayd into flowers, is the neatest little roome that euer I saw. In fine the little Grotte, and the Statue of Adonis made by the hand of Michel An∣gelo are much esteemed.

* 1.32623. An other day we went to Pratolino a Villa of the Great Duke, some six milles distant from Florence. Here we saw in the garden, excellent Grotts, Fountains, water works, Shady walks, groues and the like, all vpon the side of a hill. Here you haue the Grotte of Cupid with the wettings stooles, vpon which sitting downe, a great spout

of water comes full in your face. The Fountain of the Tritons ouer∣takes you so too, and wassheth you soundly. Then being led about this garden where there are store of fountains vnder the Laurel trees, we were carried back to the grottes that are vnder the stairs, and saw there the seueral Giuochi d'aqua: as that of Pan striking vp a me∣lodious tune vpon his mouth-organ at the sight of his Mistress, appear∣ing ouer against him: that where the Angel carryes a trumpet to his mouth, and soundeth it; and where the country clowne offers a dish of water to a serpent, who dinks of it, and lifteth vp his head when he hath drunck: that of the mill which seems to break and grind oliues: the paper mill: the man with the grinding stone: the Sarazins head gapeing and spewing out water: the grotte of Galatea who comes out of a dore in a sea chariot with two nymphes, and sayleth a while vpon the water, and so returnes again in at the same dore: the curious round table capable of twelue or

fifteen men, with a curious foun∣tain playing constantly in the midst of it, and places between euery trencher, or person, for euery man to set his bottle of wine in cold water: the Samaritan woman comeing out of her house with her buckets to fetch water at the fountain, and hauing filled her buckets, returns back againe the same way: in the mean time you see smiths thumping; birds chirping in trees; mills grinding: and all this is done by water, which sets these little inuentions a worke and make them moue as it were of themselues: in the meane time an organ playes to you while you dine there in Fresco at that table, if you haue meat. Then the neat bathing place: the pillar of petrifyed water: and lastly the great Pond and Grotta before the house, with the huge gyant stooping to catch at a rock, to throw it at heauen: This gyant is so big, that within the very thigh of him,* 1.327 is a great grotte of water, called the Grot of Thotis and the shell fishes, all spouting out water.

24. I went also to Lampeggio a

Villa some fiue miles distant from Florence, belonging to Prince Matthias. Its curiously adorned with pictures, especialy battles of the hand of Tempesta. Here I saw a curious cabinet of Corall and ena∣melled worke. The fine Giuoco di Mecha, or Turkish play. The cu∣rious glasses; & little Armory.

25.* 1.328 Returning to the towne againe, we sawe the Great Dukes stables full of excellent well ma∣neged horses.

26.* 1.329 Neare to the stables stands the serraglio where the wild beasts are kept, which they make fight often against one another. Here I saw Lyons, Leopards, Tygers, Beares, Woolfs, wild boares and foxes, all which they can let out seueraly at the dores of their seueral denns, into a fair court to fight, and when they haue done, they can bring them back againe into their denns by a fearfull machine of wood made like a great Green Dragon, which à man within it rowles vpon weeles; and holding out two lighted torches at the eyes of it, frights the fiercest

beast thereby into his denn. The Prince and the Court in the mean time, standing high aboue may see the combats of these wild beasts with ease,* 1.330 and without dan∣ger. I haue read, that a Lyon here one escapeing out of this place by chance, and running vp and downe the streets, met at last (all others flying into houses) a little child, who had neither feare nor wit enough to retire; and seazed vpon him. The mother of the child hearing in what case he was, ranne out presently, and casting her self vpon her knees with teares in her eyes, and humble postures of sup∣plication, she moued so the Lyon to pitty, that he rendered her the child without hurting it, or the mother of it.

27. I sawe also here diuers Pal∣laces of noblemen vpon occasion of their Festine. For it is the custome here in winter, to inuite the chief Ladyes of the towne (marryed women onely) to come to play at cards in winter euenings for three or four hours space; and this one

night in one pallace, another night in another pallace. Thither the Ladyes go, and finde the house open to all comers and goers both Ladyes and gentlemen, that are of any garbe. In euery chamber the dores are set open, and for the most part you shall see eight, or ten cham∣bers on a floore, going out of one an other, with a squar table hold∣ing eight persons, as many chairs, two syluer candlesticks with waxe lights in them, and store of lights round about the roome. At the houre appointed, company being comne, they sit downe to play, a Caualier sitting between euery Lady, and all the women As fine in clothes and iewels, as if they were going to a Ball. The dores of all these roomes being open, the light great, the women glittering, and all glorious, you would take these pallaces to be the enchanted Pallaces of the Old King of the Montains. Any gentleman may come into these pallaces and stand behinde the gamesters, and see both how modestly they play, and how

little they play for. In the mean time thers a side chamber alwayes open for gentlemen to go in to, and refresh themselues with wine standing in snow, or with limonade, or some such cooling drinks, which are also offered to the Ladyes. In a great roome bellow, at the en∣trance of the pallace, there is a long table for gamesters that loue to play deep, that is, that loue to play onely for money.

* 1.331The Florentins enioying by the goodness and wisdome of their excellent Princ, the fruits of peace, haue many other recreations, where the people passe their time chear∣fully and think not of rebellion by muttering in corners. For this rea∣son, both in winter, and sommer, they haue their seueral diuertis∣ments. In winter their Giuoco di Calcio (a play something like our football,* 1.332 but that they play with their hands▪) euery night from the Epiphany till Lent, with their Principi di Calcio. This being a thing particular to Florence, de∣serues to be described. The two

factions of the Calcio, the Red, and the Green, choose ecih of them a Prince, some yong Caualier of a good purse. These Princes being chosen, choose a world of Officers, and lodge, for the time, in some great pallace; where they keep their courts, receiue Embassadors from one another, and giue them publik audience in state, send poste to one another, complaine of one anothers subiects, & take prisoners from one another; heare their coun∣sellers one after another, disswadeing from, or perswadeing to warre; giue orders for setling their affairs at home, heare the complaints of their subiects, ieere their enemy Princes in embassyes; and at last resolue to, fight, with proclayming warre. Dureing these serious treatyes which last for many nights the Secretaryes of state (two prime witts) read before their seueral Princes bills for regulating and re∣forming the abuses of their subiects; and read openly petitions and secret aduises: in all which they ieere a world of people in the

towne, and show prodigious wit. In fine, hauing spunn out thus the time till neare Carnauale, or shroftide, the two Princes resolue on a battle at Calcio, to be fought in the Piaz∣za of Santa Croce, before the Great Duke and Court. Vpon the day apointed, the two Princes of the Calcio come to the place in a most stately Caualcata with all the yong noblemen and gentlemen of the towne, vpon the best horses they can finde, with scarfs, red, or green, about their Armes. Haueing made their seueral Caualcatas before the Great Dukes throne or scaffold, they light from their horses, and enter into the lists with trompets sounding before them, and accom∣panyed with a stately train, and with their combatants in their se∣ueral liueryes. Hauing rancked themselues a prety distance one from the other, their standard bear∣ers at sound of trumpet, carry both at once, their standards to the foot of the Great Dukes scaf∣fold. This done, the Ball, or Ballon is throwne vp in the midst between

them, and to it they go with great nimbleness, sleight, and discretion; and sometimes they fall to it in deed and cuff handsomely: but vpon payne of death, no man must resent afterwards out of the lists, what euer happened here; but all ani∣mosities arriseing here, end here too. At last, that side which throwes, or strikes the Ballon ouer the rayles of the other side, winns the day, and runns to the standards, which they carry away till night, at what time the conquering Prince enterteins them at a Festino di Ballo at Court, made to some Lady; and where all his chief Officers and com∣batants dance alone with the Ladyes at the Ball, none els being permit∣ted to dance with them that night. Besides these passtimes,* 1.333 they haue once a week, danceing at the Court from twelfth day till Lent, at which Balls, all the Ladies of the towne are inuited, to the number sometimes of two hundred, and these all marryed women, and all inuited by a particular ticket. Then

their seueral Operas, or musical Drammata acted and sung with rare cost and arte. Lastly their publick running at the ring, or at the facchin, for a peece of plate. And in som∣mer, they haue their seueral dance∣ing dayes, and their frequent Corsi di Palio vpon certain knowne days & for knowne prizes, and all be∣fore the good Prince, who counte∣nanceth all these sports with his pre∣sence, thinking wisely, that thers lesse hurt in puplick mirth, then in priuate mutinyes:

* 1.334Hauing sayd thus much of Flo∣rence, I will now say something of the Court, the Gouerment, strength, Gentry, Riches, Interest, Language, and Learned men of this towne.

For the Court its clearly one of the best of Italy. Great riches make it looke plump, and giue it an excellent en bon point. The no∣ble Pallace the Prince, his Title of Serenissimo, his Train and Retinew of noble Officers and gentlemen, his store of Pages, Palfreniers, Gards of Swissers with halbards,

his Troupe of horse wayting vpon him, make this Court appeare splendid. The Duke himself also who makes this Court,* 1.335 makes it a fine Court. His extraordinary Ciui∣lity to stangers, made vs think our selues at home there. He is now aboue fifty, and hath a Aus∣trian looke and lip, which his mo∣ther Magdalena of Austria Sister to the Emperour Ferdinand the II. lent him. He admits willingly of the visits of strangers, if they be men of condition; and he re∣ceiues them in the midst of his au∣dience chamber standing; and will not discourse with them, till they be couered too. Its impossible to depart from him disgusted, because he pays your visit with as much wit as ciuility: and hauing enter∣teined you in his chamber with wise discourse, he will entertein you in your owne chamber too with a regalo of dainty meats, and wines, which he will be sure to send you. The Great Dutchesse too is an other main pillar of this Court.* 1.336 She is of the house of the

Duke of Vrbin, once a Souerain Prince in Italy, but now extinct in her Father who was the last Duke: and she had been souerain of that Dutchy, had she been of the So∣uerain sexe: but what nature re∣fused her in sexe, it hath giuen her in beauty, and so made her a greater souerain, euen of Florence. In a word, Florence the Faire, was neuer so faire, as was the faire Dutchesse of Florence when I saw her first. Of her the Great Duke hath two sonnes. Cosmus the Prince of Toscane hath married one of the Daughters of the late Duke of Or∣lians. Hee is a great Traueller and hath visited most of the Princes courts of Christendome. The name of this family is Medices; a family which h••ah giuen to the Church four Popes, and to France two Queens. This family is ancient, and came first out of Athens. It was alwayes con∣siderable dureing the Republick of Florence,* 1.337 but farr more since it hath got the start of all the other families to farre, as to become their Souerain. The beginning of

the greatness of this family came from Cosmus Medices surnamed Pa∣ter Patriae.* 1.338 This man being very rich and of a liberal mind, spent four hundred thousand crownes in pub∣lick and priuate buildings, and one hundred thousand crownes more in loane monyes to the poore citi∣zens. These generous actions which should haue got him the loue of all men, purchased him the hatred of some of the great ones, who ac∣cuseing him of affecting Souerainty, raysed a strong faction against him. The heads of this faction where Rinaldo Albizzi, Pala Strozzi, Ridolfo Peruzzi, and Nicolo Bar∣badori. These men corrupting the suffrages of the Senate, caused Cos∣mus to be clapt vp, with an inten∣tion to take away his life. Cosmus in prison, fearing poyson, abstained from meats four dayes together, and dyed almost for feare of being killed: At last hee was rescued from this melancholy humor by his honest keeper; who gaue him such assurances, that he should not be poysoned, that he tooke meat

againe, and kept in his vital breath which was almost come to his lips. Then his keeper (not content to be half courterous) haueing re∣couered his body, stroue to re∣couer his mind too, which was sore spent with feares and melan∣choly; and for this purpose, brought vnto him the buffon of Bernardo Guadagni then Confaloniero, The chief Magistrate of the Republick, who with his witty ieasts, so cheared him vp with mirth, that he began not onely to think of liuing againe, but also of getting out from thence, that he might liue long. To this end he works with the buffon to carry a promise in writeing from him to the Confaloniero, of 1000 crownes of gold, vpon condition he would free him. The buffon vnder∣takes it, and money takes with the Confaloniero, who vnder pretence of examining the cause to put him to death, finds him onely worthy of bānishment; to which he condemns him; and the place of his banishment was Venice. This was it that he de∣sired. For being at Venice, he wrought

so well by Freinds with the peo∣ple, that loued him, that he was restored againe to his country, and got the title of Pater Patriae by a publick decree. By this title his fa∣mily grew into that esteem, that it ouertopt the rest, and in time wrought it self into Souerainty.

For the Gouerment of Florence, it is now Monarchical, and despotical,* 1.339 the Great Dukes will being abso∣lute; all great businesses passing through his knowledge and likeing: so that he wants nothing of a King, but the name; and that too he al∣most hath vnder the name of Great Duke.

As for the Strength of this State;* 1.340 it hath 20 Episcopal cittyes; 500 litle walled townes; strong Forts on the confines: and can make an army of forty thousand foot, three thousand horse, twelue Gallies, two Galleasses, two Galleonies, and twenty ships of warre.

For the Gentry, it is a Gentry dyed in graine, that is, its both witty, and rich. The subtil ayre of this country, and the Academy

of the Crusca haue sharpened them into much wit: and their good hus∣bandry,* 1.341 and vnder-hand traffick hath put them notably into purse. For they think it no disgrace to haue a banco at home, and meet dayly at the exchange about traffick and trayding; while their wifes Lady it in coach with their han∣some liueries. This makes them hold vp their nobility by the chinn, and not onely preserues their fami∣lyes from sinking; but rather makes them swime in a full sea of ho∣nour: they being enabled thereby to buy great offices for their chil∣dren in other courts, whereby they often make them mount to the highest dignityes: when they are there, no man reproches vnto them the way they tooke to come thither, whether by water, or Land; by traffick, or by the sword; by the schoole-booke, or count-booke. If the French gentry would follow this way, they might haue shoos and stockings for their children (which some of them want in the country) where with to keep their noble

blood warme in winter.

For the Riches of this Prince,* 1.342 they are about a million and a half of Piastri, or crownes. These are his annual reuenews; besides his iewels; forfeitures; and his Datij: which last, are of vast profit to him.

The Interest of this Prince is much Austrian,* 1.343 and consequently Spanish: yet not so farre, as to break with France, to which he opens his ports and passages for his owne sake. He loues to haue no warre in Jtaly, because he hath something to loose: and though he loue to haue the Pope his freind, yet he cares not for hauing any of his subiects Pope. A Pope of his fa∣mily, Clement the VII, hauing made him what he is, he is affrayd a Pope of some other Florentin fami∣ly would striue to make him what he was.

As for the Language of Florence its pure, but in their books,* 1.344 not in their mouths: They do so choke it in the throat, that its almost quite drownd there; nor doth it re∣couer

it self againe till it come to Rome, where Lingua Toscana in bocca Romana is a most sweet language. The Academy of the Crusca hath much contributed to the enrich∣ing of this language with choice words.* 1.345 The rich Dictionary made by this famous company, and called from them, the Crusca, was forty yeares in compileing, but it will be in vogue as long as men shall speak Italian.

* 1.346Finally, for the Learned men of of this towne in later times, they are these; Marsilius Ficinus the Christian Platonick; Dante and Petrarck in Poëtry: Guicciardin in History: Poggio in raillery: Vesp••∣cius in Geography: Accursius in law: Michel Angelo in painting: Ioannes Casa in practical morality: Naclantus in diuinity: Galilaeo in Astronomy: Doni, Luigi, Alemanni, and others in belle lettere.

He that desires to know the History of Florence,* 1.347 let him read Giouanne Villani, Matthaeo Villani, Scipione Ammirato, and the life of Gran Cosimo.

Hauing thus seen faire Florence, we desired to see Ligorne, and make an excursiue iourney by Pistoia,* 1.348 Lucca, and Pisa. Pistoia is an an∣cient towne in a plain country. Of this towne is Clement the IX, this pre∣sent Pope, of the ancient Family of Rospigliosi: ād that is all I can say of it. For it looks baldly of it, either out of pure old age, els by reason of our neighbourhood to Florence, which hath fleeced it, or which I rather think, by reason of its ciuil facti∣ons heretofore, which almost ruin∣ed it quite.

Lucca is a prety little Com∣monwealth,* 1.349 and yet it sleeps quietly within the bosome of the Great Dukes State. But that State may wisely feare none, which no State feares; and the great Duke is vnwill∣ing to measure his sword, or take vp the cudgels against little Lucca, least the world should cry shame vpon him, and bid him meddle with his match. This little Republick looked in my eye,* 1.350 like a perfect mapp of old Rome▪ in its begining.

Its Gouerned by a Confaloniero and the gentry. The great Counsel con∣sists of 160 citizens who are changed euery yeare. Its vnder tho Emperors protection; and it hath about thirty thousand souls in it. Approching vnto it, it looked like a pure low-country towne, with its brick walls, large ramparts set round with trees, and deep moates round about the walls. It hath eleuen bastions,* 1.351 well garded by the townes∣men, and well furnished with Cannōs of a large sise. The towne is three miles in compasse; it hath thirty thousand muskets, or half muskets in its Arsenal, eight thousand pikes, two thousand brest peeces of musket proof, and store of great artillery. The whole State, for a need, can arme eighteen thousand men of ser∣uice,* 1.352 and it hath about fiue hundred thousand French liures a yeare. It was in this towne that Caesar, Pompey, and Crassus met, and agreed among themselues that all things in Rome should passe as they pleased.

The chief things to be seen here

are, The Cathedral, called S. Mar∣tins, whose Bishop hath the ensignes of an Archbishop, to wit, the vse of the Pallium, and the Crosse; and whose Canons in the Quire weare a rochet and Camail, and miters of silk like Bishops.

2. The towne house, or Senate house, where the Confaloniero liues dureing the time of his charge.

2. The Church of S. Frediano belonging to the Canon Regulars, where, in a Chappel on the left hand, is the Tombe of S. Richard King of England, who dyed here in his pilgrimage to Rome.

4. The Augustins Church, where is seen a hole where the Earth opened to swallow vp a blasphem∣ing gamester.

Of this towne was Pope Lucius the III. the two famous men of this towne, the one for soldiery, the other for learning, were, braue Castrucio, and Sanctes Pagninus a great Hebrician.

There are fiue townes more be∣longing to Lucca, to wit, Ca-magior,

Viareggia, Montignoso, Castilione, and Minucciano.

* 1.353From Lucca we went to Pisa, some ten miles off. This was once the head towne of a florishing Re∣publick, and then the Numantia of Florence, and scorning its yoke: but now it croucheth to it. It stands in no very good ayre, and ther∣fore hath been vexed with diuers plagues. The grasse in the streets of this Vniuersity, read me this lec∣ture, and I beleeued it. Wherupon I resolued to stay here one day one∣ly, in which time I saw.

1. The Domo,* 1.354 whose Canons offi∣ciate in Scarlate like Cardinals. This is a neat Church for structure, and for its three brazen dores his∣toryed with a fine basso rilieuo. Its built after la maniera Tedescha, a fashion of building much vsed in Italy four or fiue hundred yeares ago, and brought in by Germans or Tedeschi, sayth Vasari.

* 1.3552. Neare to the Domo stands, (if leaning may be called standing) the bending Tower, so artificialy made, that it seems to be falling,

and yet it stands firme: Ruituraque semper, stat (mirum) moles.

3. On the other side of the Domo, is the Campo Santo a great square place cloistered about with a low cloister curiously painted. It•• called the Campo Santo, because therein is conserued the Holy earth brought from Hierusalem in 50 Gallies of this Republick, an. 1224. These Gallies were sent by the Re∣publick of Pisa, to succour the Em∣perour Aenobarbe, in the Holy Land▪ but hearing of his death when they came thither, they returned home againe loaden with the earth of the Holy Land, of which they made this Campo Santo.

4. Some good Colledges there are but vnfrequented then by reason of a late plague:* 1.356 none running fas∣ter from the plague then schollers, especialy when it comes neare to the schools.

5.* 1.357 The publick Library is much enriched with the accession of Aldus Manutius his Library.

6.* 1.358 The garden of Simples may be rare, but wee not vnderstanding this

hearbe language: hastened to the house of the Knights of S. Steuen.

* 1.3597. This is the onely Order of Knighthood that I perceiued in Flo∣rence; and its very common. They weare a red crosse of satin vpon their cloaks; and professe to fight against the Turks. For this purpose they haue here a good house, and maintenance. Their Church is beau∣tifyed without with a hansome faciata of white marble; and with∣in with Turkish Ensignes and diuers Lanterns of capitanesse gallies. In this house the Knights liue in com∣mon, and are well maintained. In Their Treasory they shew you a great buckler all of Pearle and Diamonds, wonn in a battle against the Turks. Indeed bucklers of Diamonds, do but show our enemyes where we are, and what they may hope for by killing vs. They haue in their Cancellaria, a Catalogue of those Knights who haue done notable seruice against the Turks; which serues for a powerfull exhortation to their successors, to do, and dy brauely. In fine, these Knights may

marry if they will, and liue in their owne particular houses, but many of them choose celibate, as more con∣uenient for braue soldiers: wifes and children being the true impedi∣menta exercitûs.

Heretofore, during the great disorders of the Guelfs and the Gi∣belins, Anno 1282, this towne was gouerned by Vgolin a proud man, who ruled here despotically. This man inuiteing one day all his friends to a great feast, began in the midst of it to brag, that no∣thing was wanting to him: yes (sayd on of his best friends, because on who flattered him not) thers one thing yet wanting to thee, Vgolin, to-wit, the Anger of God, which is not farre from thee. And it proued true, for presently after, the Gi∣belins russhing into the pallace of Vgolin (chief of the Guelfs) killed in his sight one of his sonns and his nephew, and taking him with two other of his sonns and three nephews they shut him vp in a strong Tower, and threw the Keys into Arno: where the poore man that braged

euen now in a feast, dyed soon after of hunger; hauing first seen his children and nephews dye of hunger in his armes. A rare example to teach proud men, that thers often but one day between a powerfull man, and a poore man: between a great Feast, and a great Fast. Here in Pisa were called two Councils, the one 1409. the other 1511.

* 1.360From Pisa we went to Ligorne, (Portus Liburnus in Latin) through a pleasant forrest. This is the onely hauen the Great Duke hath; and the mouth which letteth in that food which fatteneth this State. We stayd not long here, the season pressing vs to be gone, and this towne, being soone seen. For the towne its but little, yet one of the neatest hauen townes a man can see. Heretofore it was not sufferable by reason of the bad ayre; but since Ferdinan the first built it a new, and dryed vp the neighboring Fenns (gathering much of the water into a cut channel, which goes from hence to Pisa, and carryes great boats) the towne is twice as whole∣some,

and thrice as rich as it was.

The things I saw in this towne were these. 1. The Mole which shutts vp the hauen. 2. The Lan∣terne which with seauen lights guides in ships in the night, 3. The Hauen it self where ships lye safe, and the little hauen within that, which serues for a withdrawing roome to the great hauen, where the Gallyes retire themselues. 4. The statue of Ferdinand the first in marble, with the Statues in bronze of four slaues at his feet. These are the 4 slaues that would haue stolne away a galley and haue rowed here themselues alone; but where taken in their great enterprize. 5. The Greek Church. 6. The Castle. 7. The Tower in the Sea where they keepe gunpowder. 8. The Iews Syna∣gogue. 9. Two windmills which are rare things in Italy, and there∣fore must haue a place here among the rarityes of this towne.

I found not any Academy of wits here, nor any records of any learn∣ed men of this towne. All the Latin here is onely, Meum, and Tuum,

and their wits are exercised here, how to make good bargins, not good Bookes. Indeed what should the Muses do here amongst the horri∣ble noyse of chaines, of carts, of balling Sea men, of clamorous por∣ters, and where the slaues of Bar∣bary are able to fright all learning out of the towne with their lookes, as all Latin with their Language. Yet I must confesse, they study here belle Lettere: for if the true belle Lettere bee Letters of exchange, your marchand here, if you present him a Letter of exchange from his cor∣respondent, will read it ouer, and ouer againe, and study vpon it, be∣fore he giue you the contents of it in money.

Hauing finished this excursiue journey, we returned againe to Flo∣rence; and hauing rested our horses a day or two, we tooke a new rise from thence to Rome which seem∣ed to becken en vs, and whither the main torrent of our curiosity hurryed vs.

Some three miles Beyond Flo∣rence we passed vnder a Monastery of

Carthusians seated vpon a round hill; whose seueral celles and little gardens (walled about) branching out on all sides, like seuerall Basti∣ons, made this Monastery looke like a spiritual Fort, or deuout Cit∣tadel.

From hence passing through san:* 1.361 Cassiano we arriued at night at Poggi-Bonzi a little towne famous for perfumed Tobacco in powder,* 1.362 which the Italians and Spaniards take farre more frequently then we, as needing neither candle nor tinderboxe to light it withall; nor vseing any other pipes, then their owne noses.

From Poggi-Bonzi we came at dinner to Siena.* 1.363 This is the second towne of the Florentin State. It was heretofore a powerfull Republick commanding threescore miles into the country, and now and then, beating the Florentins: but a last, after much strugling, this woolf re∣ceiued the muzzle,* 1.364 and Siena is now the humble seruant of Florence. This happened an•• 1555.

This towne is seated in a very

wholesome ayre and soyle, and there∣fore much frequented by strangers. Its called Senae in Latin from the Senones, people of Gaule, who come∣ing into Italy with Brennus, built this towne. The streets are all paued with bricks set vp edgeway, which makes the towne alwayes dry and neat. Its built high and low, with many high towers in it, built an∣ciently in honour of its well de∣seruing citizens who had done some special seruice in the Republick; and this makes it seen thirty miles off on Romes side. The people here are very ciuil, and euen sociable too; which together with the good ayre, the good exercises for gentle∣men, the good language, and the great priuiledges, make many strangers draw bridle here, and sommer it at Siena, the Orleans of Italy.

The prime things I saw here were these.

* 1.3651. The Domo, one of the neatest Cathedrals of Italy, though it be built a la maniera Tedescha. Its all of black and white marble within

and without. The Fontispice is carued curiously and set thick with statues. Yet it wants a larger piazza before it, to giue it its full grace. The inside of this Church is very takeing. Vnder the roof im∣mediatly runns a row of white marble-heads of all the Popes till this time. The Pauement is the best in the world;* 1.366 and indeed too good to be trode on; hence they couer a great part of it with bords hansomely layd together, yet easy to be taken vp, to show strangers the beauty of it: Its of marble in∣layd into pictures, and those very great ones: seueral great marbles of seueral colours makeing the sha∣dows and the lights, and com∣poseing all together such a new kind of Mosaick worke, as all men ad∣mire, but none dare finish. This worke was begun by Duccio Sanese, and afterwards carryed on by Do∣menico Beccafumi, but not finished by him, sayth Vasari. They told me here that is was Meccharini, that made this pauement; but I had

rather beleeue Vasari. That part which they vncouered for vs, represented the history of Abra∣ham going to sacrifice his sonn Isaac; and the history of the Machabees; and the like. I confesse, I scarce saw any thing in Italy which pleased me better then this pauement. On the left hand (within the Church) stands the Li∣brary painted with a rare Fresco which is yet rauishing and liuely after two hundred yeares:* 1.367 Indeed the braue actions of Aeneas Syluius (afterwards Pope Pius II) which these pictures represent, deserue to be painted by the sun beames. The pictures are of the hand of Pietro Perugino, Raphaels Master: but when alls done, giue me bookes in a Library, not pictures. In the Church you see the statues of Ale∣xander the III, of Pius II, of Paulus V, & of Alexander the VII. all Popes, and natiues of Siena.

* 1.3682. I sawe here the seueral places which S. Katharine of Siena had made famous by her deuotions: as,

her Chamber, where she receiued the holy stigmats, now turned into a Chappel: the Chamber where she liued: with other memorials of her deuotions, in the Dominicans Church; where they also shew her head, and finger: her body being transferred to Rome, and lyeing in a little Chappel within the Sacristy of the Dominicans, at the Minerua.

3.* 1.369 The other things ordinarily showne here, are the great Hospital: the house of Pius II, of the family of the Piccolomini: the great Piaz∣za: the pillar with the woolf of brasse vpon it: the marble Pillar as you come into the towne from Florence, with the armes of the Empire and of Portugal vpon it; because here it was, that the Em∣perour met Eleonora of Portugal and marryed her in presence of Aeneas Syluius then Archbishop here, and afterwards Pope Pius II.

I saw here the Academy of wits called gli Intronati:* 1.370 why they should take that ambitious name I knowe not, vnlesse it be in reference to the saying of à Philosopher, who

sayd, that then finally kingdomes should be happy, when either Phi∣losophers should be chosen Kings, or Kings playd the Philosophers. Indeed Aristotle holds that they that are strong of body, are made to serue, and tug at the oare of com∣mands: and they that are strong in wit, are borne by nature to sit at the helme, and command others.

5. This towne hath furnished the Church with a General Council of a hundred and thirty Bishops, called by Nicolas the III: with three great Saints, S. Bernardin re∣former of the Minorits; S. Katha∣rine the holy Virgin; and Beatus Colombanus Institutor of the Order of the Iesuati, a man of great learn∣ing and Sanctity: with fiue good Popes, to wit, Alexander the III of the house of Bandinelli; Pius II, of the house of Piccolomini; Paulus V, of the house of Burgesi; and Alander the VII, of the house of Chisi: And in fine, it hath furnish∣ed the world with two champions in learning Ambrosius Politi (or Ca∣tharinus) who wrote learnedly against

Luther and Erasmus; and Adriano Politi who wrote against Ignorance by his learned Dictionary.

He that would know in particu∣lar the history of Siena,* 1.371 let him read Orlando Maleuolto.

From Siena we went to Bon Con∣uento, Tornieri, San Quirico, incon∣siderable places vpon the rode, and so to Radicofino a strong Castle vpon a high hill built by Deside∣rius King of the Longobards.* 1.372 This is the last place of the Florentin state, but not the least in strength.

Dineing here at the Great Dukes Inn at the bottom of the hill, we went to lodge at Aquapendente, which is some 12 miles off, and the first towne of the Popes state.

This towne stands vpon a hill,* 1.373 from which the waters trickling downe softly are sayd to hang there, and giue it the name of Aquapendente. Of late this towne is made a Bishops Seate by the Demo∣lition of Castro, and the remooual of the Bishops Seat from thence hither, which happened vpon this

occasion. Castro was a towne be∣longing to the Duke of Parma, Thither Pope Innocent the X. sent a good Bishop to gouerne that flock; but the Bishop vpon his arriual being killed there, the Pope sent Conte Vidman (General then of the Church) with order to demolish Castro; and he himself transfered the Bishops seat from thence to Aquapendente, and all this ac∣cording to the Canon law, which ordains,* 1.374 that that Citie which kills its Bishop should be depriued of the Bishops seat euer after.

From Aquapendente we came to a little towne called San Lorenzo, and not long after,* 1.375 to Bolsena, an∣ciently called Vrbs Volsinensium. Here it was that happened the fa∣mous Miracle in confirmation of the Real presence of Christs body and blood in the Blessed Sacrament, which happened an 1263, and which gaue occasion to Pope Vrban the IV to command that the Feast of Corpus Christi should be kept holyday euer after. The Mi∣racle

is related by Leandro Alberti the Camden of Italy, and by learn∣ed Onuphrius Panuinus in the life of Vrban the IV.

We passed also that morning by the side of the Lake of Bolsena;* 1.376 in the midle of which is a little Iland in which Amalasuinta Queen of the Ostrogoths, a woman of singular parts, was miserably murthered by her nearest kinred. Heres also a little Conuent of Capucins.

Hauing passed along this Lake a great while,* 1.377 we entered at last into a wood called anciently Lucus Vol∣sinensium, and now, Bosco Helerno. It was formerly a dangerous passage for Bandits: but now its free from danger, since Sixtus Quintus purg∣ed the Ecclesiastical State of that Vermin, by makeing a Law, that whosoeuer should bring in the head of a Bandit, should haue pardon, impunity, & recompence too of some hundred crownes, wher vpon the Bandits soone destroyed one another.

From this wood we soone came to Montefiascone standing vpon a hill. Its a Bishops Seat,* 1.378 and famous

for excellent Muscatello wine; and this wine is famous for hauing kil∣led a Dutchman here who drunk too much of it. The story is true, and thus. A Dutchman of cōdition trauel∣ing through Italy, sent his man be∣fore him alwayes, with a charge to looke out in the Inns were the best Wine was, & there write vpon the Wall of the Inn the word, EST, that is to say, Here it is. The seruant comeing hither a little be∣fore his Master, and finding the wine excellently good, wrote vpon the Wall EST, EST, EST, signifying thereby the superlatiue goodness of this wine. The Master arriues, lookes for his Mans hand∣writing; and finding three ESTS, is ouer ioyed. In he goes, and re∣solues to lye there; and he did so indeed: for here he lyes still; bury∣ed first in wine, and then in his graue. For drinking too much of this good wine, he dyed here, and was buryed by his seruant in a Church here below the Hill, with this Epitaph vpon his Tombe, made by the same seruant, Propter EST,

EST, EST, herus meus mortuus est. It was here also, that the gallantry of the braue Roman General Ca∣millus appeared very much. For while he was besieging this towne, called then P••aliscum, or Phalerii, a treacherous schoolmaster hauing brought vnto him the chief of the yong youths of the towne, whom he had deceitfully drawne vnto the Roman Camp, vnder pretence of takeing the ayre a broad: by which means Camillus might haue frighted their Parents to an vnworthy ren∣dition: the braue Roman who scorn∣ed to ouercome by any other way then that of Gallantry, caused the schoole master to bee stripped & his hands to be tyed behind his back, and to be led into the towne againe, with the little youths whipping him as he went, till he had brought them home againe. This nobleness of Camillus tooke the towne pre∣sently, because it tooke with the townesmen; who admireing the Ro∣mans Generosity, submitted wil∣lingly to Camillus, who had chosen

rather to take towns By this owne Ʋalour, then by other mens ini∣quity: Indeed (as Valerius Ma∣ximus sayth) it did not become Rome built by the sonn of Mars, to take towns otherwise then Martially.

From Montesiascone we went downe the Hill by an easie descent vnto Viterbo.* 1.379 This is an Episcopal Seat, standing in a wholesome ayre, and therefore called Viterbium, as it where, Vita Vrbium. Here are excellent fountains of water, and store of them: but its pitty none of them runn with good wine, to make a mends for the bad, which are most of them Vini cotti. The two facti∣ons here of the Gatti & the Maganesi (these standing for the Vrsini, those for the Colonnesi) ruined heretofore Viter¦bo ouer & ouer againe. In the Do∣mo there are the tombes of 4 Popes, as also in the Franciscans Church some tombes of Popes, and of S. Rosa: you see the body of that Saint yet entire though buryed aboue 100 years ago. She lyes along in her tombe, and is seen by the drawing

of a curtain from before her.

Heres an Academy of wits called Gli Ostinati, to shew perchance,* 1.380 that a man cannot be learned without obstinate labour and paynes. Hence the Poët makes his learned man to be one who multum su∣dauit & alsit: and Persius tells vs, that his delight was to grow pale with obstinate night study: Velle suum cuique est &c.

At me nocturnis juuat impalles∣cere chartis.

About a mile from Viterbo stands a neat Church and Conuent called Madonna del Querco, and as farre againe beyond that, à fine house with a garden of water works and Foun∣tains, worth seeing.

From Viterbo (being vpon our owne horses) we went to see Capra∣rola a stately House belonging to the Duke of Parma.* 1.381 The house is held to be one of the finest in Italy for Architecture. Its stands a little out of the trauelers rode, but not of his way: for its much in a mans way to see such a louely house as this. It stands vpon the side of a

hill, and from one of the Bal∣conies it shews you Rome some two and thirty miles off. Its built in a Pentagone (if I remember well) without, and round within. The chambers for all that, are square, and well proportioned. The chief of these chambers are painted by the hand of Pietro Orbista, flourish∣ing thus vpon the noble actions of Paulus III. Among the other chambers, the whispering chamber is curious: for four men here stand∣ing each one in one of the four corners of this great chamber, heare distinctly what any of them whis∣pers in a low tone in his corner, their faces being turned to the wall; and yet those that stand in the midst of the chamber cannot heare it. The other chamber is no lesse curious where standing in the midst of it, and stamping hard with your foot, those that are without at the dore think they heare the cracks or reports of Pistols. The other roomes here also, as the kitchin all of one stone, the low Caue also with the pillar in it, cut like∣wise

out of a rock, and bearing vp the whole pauement of the round court which lets light into this Caue by diuers round grates of iron, are worth the beholding: Then the Garden vpon the Hillside with the great variety of waterworks, grottes, and wetting sports, are all curious things. Hauing walked this garden about, youl deserue after so much water, a little wine, which will not be wanting to you from the rare cellar lyeing vnder the great Ter∣rasse before the house: and per∣chance youl think the wineworks here as fine as the waterworks.

From Caprarola we fell into our way againe at Monterosa,* 1.382 from whence passing by Bacano, and the Hosteria del Storto, we came at night to Rome.

All the way from Monterosa to Rome almost, belonged anciently to the Veientes (so called, sayth Be∣rosus, from their carrying about with them in carts, all their goods) Neare to Bacan is a lake out of which runns the riuer Varca,* 1.383 an∣ciently called Cremera, neere vnto

which the Veientes killed in one battle, three hundred Fabii, that is, the whole family of the Fabii (who had vowed themselues to death for the commonwealths seruice) except one little boy not able to beare armes, from whom Fabius Maxi∣mus, The terrour of Hannibal, and Romes buckler descended.

Vpon this rode also stood ancient∣ly the towne Veii,* 1.384 a towne which held out tenn sommers against the Romans, and stood in need of no lesse man then Camillus to take it. This towne was once so great, that Rome being destroyed almost by the Gauls, the Senators held a con∣sultation in the Comitium, whether they should retire to Veii, and leaue Rome quite, or rebuild againe Romes walls: but during this con∣sultation, the troops returning out of garrison arriued by chance into the Comitium, where the Centurion entring, and not thinking the Senators had been there, cryed out to the Standardbearer,* 1.385 Signifer Statue signum, hic optime manebi∣mus: which words the Senators

hearing, cryed out to one an other; Accipimus omen; and presently layd aside all further thought of retireing to Veii.

Some twelue miles before we came to Rome, we saw the Cupola of S. Peters Church, and were as glad to see it a farre off, as the weary Troians in Aeneas his company, were glad to see Jtaly after so much wandering. Some few houres after, hauing passed by an old tombe, which some call Neros Tombe, and ouer the Ponte Molo (of which more in my 2. part) we entred into Rome by the Via Flaminea, and Porta del Populo.

The end of the First Part.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The Ferti¦lity of Ita∣ly.
• * 1.2

  An obiec∣tiō against Italy.
• * 1.3

  Answer.
• * 1.4

  Baltazar Bonifaci∣us in hist. Ludicra l. 13. c. 1••.
• * 1.5

  Sol & ho∣mo gene∣rant homi∣nem. Plutar∣chus in Graccho.
• * 1.6

  ••alzacin 1. volum: liter.
• * 1.7

  The Inha∣bitāts and their wits.
• * 1.8

  Poëts An∣cient, and Moderne in Italy.
• * 1.9

  Histori∣ans.
• * 1.10

  Orators.
• * 1.11

  Prodigies of learn∣ing.
• * 1.12

  Diuines.
• * 1.13

  Philoso∣phers.
• * 1.14

  Archi∣tects.
• * 1.15

  Sculptors.
• * 1.16

  Painters.
• * 1.17

  Ancient and mo∣derne Cap∣tains.
• * 1.18

  See Vers∣tegan in his restitu∣tion of de∣cayed in∣telligence.
• * 1.19

  The Jta∣lian Hu∣mour.
• * 1.20

  Their mā∣ners.
• * 1.21

  See Mon∣signor Ca∣za, Ste∣phano Guazzo, Baltazar Castigliōe
• * 1.22

  Their Ce∣remonies.
• * 1.23

  Their par∣ticular customes.
• * 1.24

  Nomen, quasi no∣••amen. S. Aug.
• * 1.25

  Their Riches.
• * 1.26

  Their Re∣ligion.
• * 1.27

  Rex est nomen of∣ficij. S. Ambr.
• * 1.28

  Yssone:
• * 1.29

  Fontain∣belleau.
• * 1.30

  The Court of the Che∣ual Blanc
• * 1.31

  The Oual Court.
• * 1.32

  The Gal∣lery of staggs heads.
• * 1.33

  The Gal∣leries of Romāces.
• * 1.34

  The Salle of the Con∣ference.
• * 1.35

  See the Publick Acts of this Con∣ference printed an. 1601.
• * 1.36

  Madame Gabriells picture.
• * 1.37

  The Chap∣pels.
• * 1.38

  Old Carps
• * 1.39

  De re Rust
• * 1.40

  An old Inscriptiō concerning English∣men.
• * 1.41

  Montar∣gis.
• * 1.42

  Briare.
• * 1.43

  The Con∣iunction of Loire and Sene.
• * 1.44

  Lyons.
• * 1.45

  A noble Chapter.
• * 1.46

  S. Iohns Church.
• * 1.47

  The Towne house.
• * 1.48

  Other Ra∣rities.
• * 1.49

  The rare Cabinet of Monsieur Seruier.
• * 1.50

  Vienne.
• * 1.51

  Tournon.
• * 1.52

  Valence.
• * 1.53

  Pont S. Esprit.
• * 1.54

  Auignon.
• * 1.55

  The rari∣ties.
• * 1.56

  Aix.
• * 1.57

  Marseil∣les.
• * 1.58

  La saincte Baume.
• * 1.59

  See Baro∣nius ad an. 35. Gordons Cronolo∣gy. Ge∣rard of Naza∣reth in a treatise ex profes∣so.
• * 1.60

  Valer. Max.
• * 1.61

  Mulier peccatrix in ciuita∣te.
• * 1.62

  See Ba∣ron. an. 35 Genebrad Gautier. Chassa∣nus. and Monsieur du Vair.
• * 1.63

  S, Maxi∣min.
• * 1.64

  Pyrrho dicebat, nihil in∣teresse, in∣ter vitam & mor∣tem.
• * 1.65

  Geneua.
• * 1.66

  The rari∣ties.
• * 1.67

  Petrus a S. Romu∣aldo in Diario.
• * 1.68

  The Lake of Geneua
• * 1.69

  Lausan∣na.
• * 1.70

  Swisser∣land.
• * 1.71

  Berne sig∣nifies as much as Beare.
• * 1.72

  Soleur,
• * 1.73

  Petrus Romual∣dus in Cro∣nolog. Tre∣sor. to. 1. pag. 83. in fol.
• * 1.74

  Murat.
• * 1.75

  The Lake of Murat.
• * 1.76

  A long Bridge.
• * 1.77

  Coire.
• * 1.78

  S. Lucius the first Christian King.
• * 1.79

  The Val∣taline.
• * 1.80

  Mount Berlin.
• * 1.81

  Le Splug.
• * 1.82

  Mount Aurigo.
• * 1.83

  The Lakes of wallin∣stade, & Jsee.
• * 1.84

  S. Mau∣rice.
• * 1.85

  The Va∣lesians.
• * 1.86

  Their Strength.
• * 1.87

  Martigni
• * 1.88

  Sion.
• * 1.89

  The best Gards of a Prince.
• * 1.90

  Plus tuta∣tur Amor
• * 1.91

  Lucia.
• * 1.92

  Briga.
• * 1.93

  Mount Sampion.
• * 1.94

  Deuedra.
• * 1.95

  Domo∣doscela.
• * 1.96

  Mar∣guzzi.
• * 1.97

  Lake Ma∣ior.
• * 1.98

  S••sto.
• * 1.99

  Ciuita Castel∣lanza.
• * 1.100

  Mount Aigue∣bellet.
• * 1.101

  Cham∣bery.
• * 1.102

  The Entry of the Dutchesse of Sauoy.
• * 1.103

  Montme∣lian.
• * 1.104

  Isere.
• * 1.105

  Aigue∣belle S. so
• * 1.106

  S. Iohn Morian.
• * 1.107

  Lasne∣bourg.
• * 1.108

  Mount Cenis.
• * 1.109

  Noua∣lese.
• * 1.110

  Suza.
• * 1.111

  Le pas de Suse.
• * 1.112

  Piedmont
• * 1.113

  S. Am∣brosio.
• * 1.114

  Riuolle.
• * 1.115

  Turin.
• * 1.116

  The Riuer Po.
• * 1.117

  Petrus a S. Ro∣mualdo Cron. to. 1
• * 1.118

  The Duke of Sauoys titles, and greatness.
• * 1.119

  His Sub∣iects.
• * 1.120

  His coun¦tryes ex∣tent.
• * 1.121

  His forces
• * 1.122

  Reuen∣nues.
• * 1.123

  His inter∣est.
• * 1.124

  The towne of Turin.
• * 1.125

  The things to be seen in Turin.
• * 1.126

  The Holy Syndon.
• * 1.127

  The Ci∣tadelle.
• * 1.128

  The Pal∣lace.
• * 1.129

  The bath∣ing place.
• * 1.130

  The old Gallery.
• * 1.131

  The new street.
• * 1.132

  The Piaz∣za Reale.
• * 1.133

  The Au∣gustins Church.
• * 1.134

  The Ca∣pucins Church.
• * 1.135

  La Vene∣rie Roy∣ale.
• * 1.136

  La Valen¦tine.
• * 1.137

  From Tu∣rin to Ge∣nua.
• * 1.138

  Sauona.
• * 1.139

  La Riui∣era di Genua.
• * 1.140

  Dreido a S. Quin∣tino lib. 1. de morib. & Act. Norman.
• * 1.141

  Genua.
• * 1.142

  The walls
• * 1.143

  The Hau∣uen.
• * 1.144

  The Pha∣ros.
• * 1.145

  The Cittye it selfe.
• * 1.146

  The streets
• * 1.147

  Strada Noua.
• * 1.148

  The Do∣mo.
• * 1.149

  Baron. ad an. 1101. n. 13.
• * 1.150

  Beda l. d•• loc. sanct. c. 2.
• * 1.151

  The An∣nunciata.
• * 1.152

  Gli Signo∣ri Lome∣lini.
• * 1.153

  S. Am∣••••sio.
• * 1.154

  S. Cyro.
• * 1.155

  The Pal∣laces.
• * 1.156

  The Pal∣laces of Signori Balbi.
• * 1.157

  The Doges Pallace.
• * 1.158

  The Ar∣mory.
• * 1.159

  San Pie∣tro in Arena.
• * 1.160

  The Villa of the Duke d'Oria.
• * 1.161

  The Go∣uerment.
• * 1.162

  Their Fashions.
• * 1.163

  Guardin∣fanta sig∣nifies a Child-preseruer
• * 1.164

  Their Riches.
• * 1.165

  Their Strength.
• * 1.166

  Their Interest.
• * 1.167

  Their learned men.
• * 1.168

  The Aca∣demy of Wits.
• * 1.169

  Their Hi∣storian.
• * 1.170

  Monferat
• * 1.171

  Cassale.
• * 1.172

  Alexan∣dria.
• * 1.173

  Noui.
• * 1.174

  Tortona.
• * 1.175

  Pauia.
• * 1.176

  Ticinum.
• * 1.177

  The Do∣mo.
• * 1.178

  The Eques¦tris statua of Auto∣ninus.
• * 1.179

  S. Augus¦tins body.
• * 1.180

  Baron. an. 725.
• * 1.181

  Baron. an. 1027.
• * 1.182

  The tombe of Seueri∣nus Boe∣tius.
• * 1.183

  See Baron. an. 525.
• * 1.184

  Learned men.
• * 1.185

  The His∣torians.
• * 1.186

  The Battle of Pauia.
• * 1.187

  See Mon∣lukes Com¦mentaries
• * 1.188

  The Car∣thusians Monaste∣ry.
• * 1.189

  Milan.
• * 1.190

  The Dut∣chy of Mi∣lan.
• * 1.191

  Store of Gentry.
• * 1.192

  Store of Artizans
• * 1.193

  S. Am∣brose his Church.
• * 1.194

  S. Am∣brose his Tombe.
• * 1.195

  Read S. Augustin lib. 9 Conf c. 7.
• * 1.196

  Numb. 21 v. 8.
• * 1.197

  Iohn 3.14.
• * 1.198

  The Hymne Te Deum.
• * 1.199

  The place of the Cō∣uersion of S. Austin
• * 1.200

  The Cis∣tertians Monas∣tery.
• * 1.201

  S. Victors Church.
• * 1.202

  S. Naza∣rio.
• * 1.203

  S. Eustor∣gio.
• * 1.204

  The Domo
• * 1.205

  S. Loren∣zo.
• * 1.206

  The Holy Naile.
• * 1.207

  The Hos∣pital.
• * 1.208

  The Semi¦nary.
• * 1.209

  The col∣ledge of the Swis∣sers.
• * 1.210

  The Laz∣zaretto.
• * 1.211

  The Li∣brary.
• * 1.212

  The Gal∣lery of pic∣tures.
• * 1.213

  The Do∣minicans.
• * 1.214

  The Gra∣tie.
• * 1.215

  The Cabi¦net of Ca∣nonico Setaly.
• * 1.216

  Some Pallaces.
• * 1.217

  The Castle.
• * 1.218

  The shops
• * 1.219

  The Aca∣demy of witts.
• * 1.220

  The learned Men.
• * 1.221

  A strong body.
• * 1.222

  Leandro Alberto
• * 1.223

  A Strong mind.
• * 1.224

  Its reue∣nues.
• * 1.225

  Its strenth
• * 1.226

  Its Histo∣rians.
• * 1.227

  Marign∣ano.
• * 1.228

  Lodi.
• * 1.229

  Piacenza
• * 1.230

  Its Rari∣ties.
• * 1.231

  A peece of thrift.
• * 1.232

  Its History.
• * 1.233

  Parma.
• * 1.234

  The Dukes Pallace.
• * 1.235

  The Domo
• * 1.236

  The Capucins.
• * 1.237

  Alexan∣der Far∣nese.
• * 1.238

  Some Cri∣ticks hold Quintus Curtius to be a Ro∣mance
• * 1.239

  The Dukes Reuenues.
• * 1.240

  His interest. His forces
• * 1.241

  The Aca∣demy of wits.
• * 1.242

  Its Histo∣ry.
• * 1.243

  Regio.
• * 1.244

  Modena.
• * 1.245

  The Fa∣mily of Estè.
• * 1.246

  Countesse Matilda.
• * 1.247

  The last true Con∣suls.
• * 1.248

  Its Learn∣ed Men.
• * 1.249

  The Dukes Reue∣nues.
• * 1.250

  His interest.
• * 1.251

  His forces
• * 1.252

  Fort Vrban.
• * 1.253

  Castel Franco.
• * 1.254

  Bologna.
• * 1.255

  The towne it selfe.
• * 1.256

  Jts Gouer∣ment.
• * 1.257

  Its Pri∣uiledges.
• * 1.258

  The Do∣minicans Church.
• * 1.259

  The Do∣minicans Conuent.
• * 1.260

  The Body Beata Catherina
• * 1.261

  The Corso
• * 1.262

  S. Mi∣chael in Bosco.
• * 1.263

  Other stately Monaste∣ries.
• * 1.264

  S. Petro∣nios Church.
• * 1.265

  The Dom••
• * 1.266

  Other Churches
• * 1.267

  The Le∣gats Pal∣lace.
• * 1.268

  Aldrouan dus his Study & Cabinet.
• * 1.269

  The Schooles.
• * 1.270

  The Spa∣nish Col∣ledge.
• * 1.271

  The 2 Towers.
• * 1.272

  The Houses in Bolognia.
• * 1.273

  The No∣bility.
• * 1.274

  The Traf∣fick.
• * 1.275

  The Mar∣kets.
• * 1.276

  The Aca∣demy of wits.
• * 1.277

  The Learned Men.
• * 1.278

  The His∣torians.
• * 1.279

  Remem∣ber this Bolettina, Traueler.
• * 1.280

  The Apennin Hills.
• * 1.281

  Tertul. l. de Poe∣nitent. c. 12.
• * 1.282

  Fioren∣zuola.
• * 1.283

  My arri∣ual at Florence.
• * 1.284

  Florence.
• * 1.285

  The Chappel of S. Lau∣rence.
• * 1.286

  The Church of S. Lo∣renzo.
• * 1.287

  The Library.
• * 1.288

  The Great Dukes Gallery.
• * 1.289

  Pictures of famous Souldiers.
• * 1.290

  Pictures of Learn∣ed Men.
• * 1.291

  The Armory.
• * 1.292

  The 1. Ca∣binet.
• * 1.293

  The 2. Ca∣binet
• * 1.294

  The 3. Ca∣binet.
• * 1.295

  The 4. Ca∣binet.
• * 1.296

  The 5. Ca∣binet.
• * 1.297

  The Ar∣gentaria.
• * 1.298

  The great Hall.
• * 1.299

  The long Corridor.
• * 1.300

  The new Pallace.
• * 1.301

  The Garden.
• * 1.302

  The Dukes Apparti∣ment.
• * 1.303

  A Rare sute of Hang∣ings.
• * 1.304

  The famous Diamond.
• * 1.305

  The Au∣gustins Church.
• * 1.306

  The Piazza.
• * 1.307

  Three ad∣mirable Towers.
• * 1.308

  The Church of S. Mi∣chel.
• * 1.309

  The Domo.
• * 1.310

  The Cu∣pola.
• * 1.311

  Leandro Alberti in Descript: Jtal.
• * 1.312

  The Coun∣cell of Flo∣rence.
• * 1.313

  In his restitution of decayed intelligēce
• * 1.314

  See Baker in Ed∣ward the 3.
• * 1.315

  Vassari in the Liues of Paint∣ers, in Cimabue.
• * 1.316

  The Campa∣nile.
• * 1.317

  The Bap∣tisterio.
• * 1.318

  Alfonso Loschi in his Com∣pend His∣to.
• * 1.319

  The Church of S. Mark
• * 1.320

  The Annun∣ciata.
• * 1.321

  Sancta Croce.
• * 1.322

  The Abbey.
• * 1.323

  S. Maria Nouella.
• * 1.324

  The sta∣tue of Ius∣tice.
• * 1.325

  Poggio Imperi∣alle.
• * 1.326

  Prato-Lino.
• * 1.327

  Lampeg∣gio.
• * 1.328

  The stable••.
• * 1.329

  The Wild beasts.
• * 1.330

  In the Cronology of Petrus Romual∣dus to 1. pag. 15.
• * 1.331

  Their Sports.
• * 1.332

  Jl Giuoco di Calcio.
• * 1.333

  Other Pastimes.
• * 1.334

  The Court.
• * 1.335

  The Great Duke.
• * 1.336

  The Great Dutchesse
• * 1.337

  The Me∣dicean Family.
• * 1.338

  See Al∣fonso Los∣chi in his compendi. Histor.
• * 1.339

  The Go∣uerment.
• * 1.340

  The strength.
• * 1.341

  The Gentry of Florence.
• * 1.342

  Riches.
• * 1.343

  Interest.
• * 1.344

  The Language
• * 1.345

  The Aca∣demy of Wits.
• * 1.346

  The learn∣ed men.
• * 1.347

  The His∣torians.
• * 1.348

  Pistoia.
• * 1.349

  Lucca.
• * 1.350

  Its Gouer∣ment.
• * 1.351

  Its strength.
• * 1.352

  Its Re∣uenews.
• * 1.353

  Pisa.
• * 1.354

  The Domo.
• * 1.355

  The bending Tower.
• * 1.356

  Some Colledges.
• * 1.357

  The Library.
• * 1.358

  The Physick garden.
• * 1.359

  The Knights of S. Ste∣phano.
• * 1.360

  Ligorne.
• * 1.361

  San: Cassiano.
• * 1.362

  Poggi Bonzi.
• * 1.363

  Siena.
• * 1.364

  The armes of Siena, are a Woolf.
• * 1.365

  The Domo.
• * 1.366

  The rare Paue∣ment.
• * 1.367

  The Library.
• * 1.368

  S. Katha¦rine of Siena.
• * 1.369

  Other Rarities.
• * 1.370

  The Aca∣demy of Wits.
• * 1.371

  The History.
• * 1.372

  Radi∣cofino.
• * 1.373

  Aqua∣pedente.
• * 1.374

  Can. ita nos 25. qu. 2.
• * 1.375

  Bolsena.
• * 1.376

  The Lake of Bolsena
• * 1.377

  Bosco Helerno.
• * 1.378

  Monte∣fiascone.
• * 1.379

  Viterbo.
• * 1.380

  The Acca∣demy of Wits.
• * 1.381

  Caprarola
• * 1.382

  Monte∣rosa.
• * 1.383

  Varca.
• * 1.384

  Veii.
• * 1.385

  Valer. Max. l. 1. c. 5.