The voyage of Italy, or, A compleat journey through Italy in two parts : with the characters of the people, and the description of the chief towns, churches, monasteries, tombs, libraries, pallaces, villas, gardens, pictures, statues, and antiquities : as also of the interest, government, riches, force, &c. of all the princes : with instructions concerning travel / by Richard Lassels, Gent. who travelled through Italy five times as tutor to several of the English nobility and gentry ; never before extant.

A PREFACE TO THE READER, CONCERNING TRAVELLING.

WHEN I first set pen to Paper to handle this sub∣ject, I had not the least thought of the presse; nor of erecting my selfe into an Author. J onely discharged my me∣mory hastily of some things which J had seen, in Italy; and wrapt vp that vntimely Embrio in fiue sheets of pa∣per, for the vse of a noble person, who set me that taske. Yet this Embrio like∣ing the person for whom it was con∣ceiued, obliged me to lick it ouer and ouer againe, and bring it into better forme. Second thoughts, and succeding voyages into Italy, haue finished it at last; and haue made it what it is; A compleat Voyage, and an exact Itinerary through Italy.

And here I thought to haue drawne

bridle and rested, after so long a iour∣ney; when a learned friend hauing per∣used this my Description of Italy, desired much to see a Preface to it, of my fashion, and Cōcerning Traueling. I could refuse nothing to such a freind; and haue done it here willingly, both for my owne, and my countryes sake.

For my owne sake; to preexcuse some things in my booke, which some per∣chance may dislike.

For some, I feare, will quarrel with my English; and justly, seeing three long voyages into Flanders, six into France, fiue into Italy, one into Ger∣many, and Holland, haue made mee, liue half of my life time in forrain countryes, to the disturbance of my owne language. Yet if J bring not home fine language, J bring home fine things: and I haue seen great Ladyes, both in France, and England, buy finde things of chimney-sweepers, and Pedlars, that spoke but course Lombard lan∣guage, and grosse Scotch.

Others perchance will finde fault, that J write merrily sometimes: And why not? Seeing I write to young men, and for them: and mirth is neuer so lawfull as in traueling, where it shor∣tens

long miles, and sweetens bad vsage; that is, makes a bad dinnar go downe, and a bad horse go on.

Others will say, that I fill my booke with too much Latin: But these must be minded, that I am writing of the Latin country; and that I am caruing for Schollers, who can dis∣gest solid bitts, hauing good stomacks.

Others will say, J ieere now and then: And would any man haue me go through so many diuers countries, and prayse all I see? Or in earnest, do not some things deserue to be ieered? when things cannot be cured but by ieering, ieering, sayth Tertullian, is a duty: and I thinke the Cynick Philo∣sophers struck as great a blow at vice, as the Stoicks.

Others will say, I change stile often, and sometimes ru••n smoothly, someti∣mes joltingly: Tru•• ••raueled not all∣wayes vpon smooth ground, and pace∣ing horses: Swisserlande and Sauoye, are much different, from Campania, and Lombardy; and its one thing to describe a Pleasant garden, an other thing to describe a Venerable Cathe∣drall: and if in the one, and the other, we haue seueral lookes; much more

ought we to haue seueral words in de∣scribing them.

Others will say, I affect a world of exotick words not yet naturalized in England: No, I affect them not; I cannot auoyd them: For who can speak of Statues, but he must speak of Ni∣ches? or of Churches, Wrought Tombes, or inlayd Tables; but hee must speak of Coupolas; of bassi ri∣lieui; and of pietre commesse? If any man vnderstand them not, its his fault, not mine.

Others will say, I hunt too much after Ceremonies, and Church anti∣quityes. No, I onely meet them. And as a man cannot speak of Hercules, but he must speak of clubbs, of com∣bats, of Labours, and victories: so I cannot speak of Rome the Christian, but I must speake of Relicks, Cere∣monies, and Religion. Yet I beleeue, I giue my Reader a full drought to•• of prophane antiquityes, Mascarades, Shews, dressings, and passetimes.

Others in fine will say, that I do but a thing done allready; seeing two others haue written of this subiect in English. Well; if others haue written vpon this subiect, why may not I? They did the

best they could, I beleeue; but they drew not vp the ladder after them. The one writes much of Italy,* 1.1 and says little: the other writes little and leaueth out much; which I impute to the ones writing out of old Geographers, long after he had been there: and to the others short stay in Italy, when he was there. And if these ingenious gentlemen haue painted out Italy in busto onely, and profile; why may not I paint her out at full face, and at her full length? If they, like ancient Sta∣tuaryes, haue represented Italy vnto vs like a naked statue; I haue set her out in all her best Attire, and Iew∣els. And thus much for my owne sake.

For my countryes sake; To read to my countrymen two profitable Les∣sons. The first, of the Profit of tra∣ueling. The second: of Traueling with profit.

1. For the first, to wit the Profit of Traueling, its certain, that if this world be a great booke,* 1.2 as S. Augus∣tin calls it, none studdy this great Booke so much as the Traueler. They that neuer stirr from home, read one∣ly one page of this booke; and like

the dull follow in Pliny, who could neuer learne to count further then fiue, they dwell allwayes vpon one lesson. They are like an acquaintance of mine, who had alwayes a booke indeed lyeing open upon a deske; but it was obserued that it lay allwayes open at one and the same place, and by long custome, could lye open no where else. He then that will know much out of this great booke, the world, must read much in it: and as Vlysses is setforth by Homer as the wisest of all the Gre∣cians, because he had traueled much, and had seen multorum hominum mores & Vrbes, the Cittyes and customes of many men: so his sonn Telemachus is held for a very shallow witted man: and Homer giues the reason, because his mother Penelope, instead of sending him abroad to see forrain countryes, had allwayes kept him at home, and so made him a meere Onocephalus, and a homeling Mammacuth. So true is the saying of Seneca, that Imperitum est animal homo, & sine magna experientia re∣rum, si circumscribatur Natalis soli sui fine.

2 Traueling preserues my yong no∣bleman

from surfeiting of his parents, and weanes him from the dangerous fondness of his mother. It teacheth him wholesome hardship; to lye in beds that are none of his acquaintance; to speak to men he neuer saw before; to trauel in the morning before day, and in the euening after day; to endure any horse and weather, as well as any meat and drink. Whereas my country gentleman that neuer traueled, can scarce go to London without makeing his Will, at least without wetting his hand∣kercher. And what generous mother will not say to her sonn with that an∣cient? Malo tibi malè esse,* 1.3 quàm molliter: I had rather thou shouldst be sick, then soft. Indeed the coral-tree is neither hard, nor red, till ta∣ken out of the Sea, its natiue home. And I haue read that many of the old Romans put out their children to be nurced abroad by Lacedemonian nur∣ces, till they were three yeares old; then they put them to their Vncles, till seauen, or tenn; then they sent them into Toscany to be instructed in Religion; and at last into Greece to studdy Philosophy.

3. Traueling takes my yong noble∣man

four notches lower, in his self-conceit and pride. For wheras the coun∣try Lord that neuer saw any body but his Fathers tennants, and M. Par∣son, and neuer read any thing but Iohn Stow, and Speed; thinks the Lands-end to be the Worlds-end; and that all solid greatness, next vnto a great Pasty, consists in a great Fire, and a great estate. Wheras my traueling yong Lord, who hath seen so many greater men, and Estats then his owne, comes home farre more modest and ciuil to his inferiours, and farre lesse pufft vp with the empty conceit of his owne greatness. Indeed nothing cured Alcibiades his pride so much, as to see in a Map (shewd him for the nonce by Socrates) that his house and lands, of which he was so prowd, either ap∣peared there not at all, or onely a little spot,* 1.4 or dab: and nemo in pusillo mag∣nus.

4. Traueling takes off, in some sort, that aboriginal curse, which was layd vpon mankind euen allmost at the beginning of the world; I meane, the confusion of tongues: which is such a curse indeed, that it makes men, who are of one kind, and made to be

sociable, so strangely to fly one an other, that, as great S. Austin sayth, A man had rather be with his dog, then with a man whose language he vnderstands not. Nay, this diuersity of language, makes the wisest man passe for a foole in a strange country, and the best man, for an excommunicated person, whose conuersation all men auoyd. Now, traueling takes off this curse, and this moral excommunication, by making vs learne many languages, and con∣uerse freely with people of other coun∣tryes.

5. Traueling makes vs acquainted with a world of our kinred we neuer saw before. For seing we are all comne from one man at first, and consequent∣ly all akinn to one another; its but a reasonable thing, that a man should, once at least in his life time, make a journey into forrain countries, to see his Relations, and visit this kinred: haueing allwayes this saying of young Joseph in his mouth; quaero fratres meos

6. Traueling enables a man much for his countryes seruice. It makes the merchant rich, by shewing him what

abounds, & wantes, in other coun∣tryes; that so he may know what to import, what to export. It makes the mechanick come loaden home with a world of experimental knowledge for the improueing of his trade. It makes the feild officer, a knowing Leader of an army, by teaching him where an army in forrain countryes, can march securely, passe riuers easily, in∣camp safely, auoid ambuscades and narrow passages discretly, and retreat orderly. It makes the Common sol∣dier play the spy wel, by making him speak the ennemyes language perfect∣ly, that so mingling with them, he may find their designes, and crosse their plottes. In fine, it makes a nobleman fitt for the noblest employ∣ment, that is, to bee Ambassador abroad for his king in forrain coun∣tryes, and carry about with him his kings person, which he represents, and his kings word, which he engag∣eth.

7. Traueling brings a man a world of particular profits. It contents the minde with the rare discourses we heare from learned men, as the Queen of Saba was rauished at the wisdome

of Salomon. It makes a wiseman much the wiser by making him see the good and the bad in others. Hence the wiseman sayth: Sapiens in terram alienigenarum gentium pertransiet: bona enim & mala in hominibus tentabit. It makes a man think him∣self at home euery where, and smile ••t vniust exile: It makes him wellcome home a gaine to his Neighbours, sought af••er by his betters, and liste∣ned vnto with admiration by his infe∣riours. It makes him sit still in his old age with satisfaction; and trauel ouer the world againe in his chair and bed, by discourse and thoughts. In fine its an excellent Commentary vpon histo∣ryes; and no man vnderstands Liuy and Caesar, Guicciardin and Mon∣luc, like him, who hath made exactly ••he Grand Tour of France, and the Giro of Italy.

8. Trauelling makes my young No∣bleman returne home againe to his country like a blessing Sunn, For as the Sunn, who hath been traueling about the world these fiue thousand and odd yeares, not onely enlightens those pla∣ces whi••h hee visits; but also enrich∣••th them with all sorts of fruits,

and mettales: so the nobleman by long traueling, hauing enlightened his vnderstanding with fine notions, comes home like a glorious Sunn; and doth not onely shine birght in the firmament of his country, the Parlament house; but also blesseth his inferiours with the powerfull influences of his knowing spirit.

9. In fine, Examples (the best Philosophy) shew vs, that the grea∣test Princes Europe hath seen, these many years, to wit, Charles the V. and the King of Sueden, Gustauus Adolphus,* 1.5 where both of them great trauelers; the first had been twice in England, as often in Africk, four times in France, six times is Spayne, seuen in Italy, and nine in Germany: The second had traueld incognito (as M. Wats writes of him) into Holland, France, Italy, and Ger∣many in his youth: which made him say afterwards to the French Ambassador Mareshal Brezé, in a kind of threatening way, that he knew the way to Paris, as wel as to Stockholme. Adde to this, that the wisest and greatest among the ancien•• Philosophers, Plato, Pythagoras

Anaxagoras, Anacharsis, Apol∣lonius, Architas, and Pi••tacus, (which last left his supreame Command of Mytelen to trauel) were all great trauelers; and that S. Hierome (who being no Bishop, and consequently not obliged to residence) hauing traueled into France, Italy, Greece, and the Holy Land, purchased to himself such rare acquisitions of learning, by his trauels and languages, that among all the ancient Fathers and Doctors, The Church, in her Collect on his day, calls him onel••, Doctorem maximum, the greatest Doctor. And so much for the profit of Traueling.

Now for as much as concernes the second Lesson, to wit,* 1.6 the Traueling with profit, diuers things are to be taken notice of; some by the Parents of those that trauel; others by those themselues that trauel: of all which I will speak breefly.

As for the Parents, their greatest care ought to be of prouideing there children (I speak to men of high con∣dition) a good Gouernour, to trauel with them, and haue a care of their Persons, and breeding: that is, play the part of the Archangel Raphaël

to yong Tobie, and Lead them safe abroad, and bring them safe home: Ego sanum ducam & reducam filium tuum. Tob. 5. v. 20. And here I could▪ wish indeed that Parents could be as happy in their choyce, and finde men Angels for Gouernours to their children, vpon condition they should requite them, as yong Tobie offered to requite the Archangel his Gouernour, whom he tooke to be a man. For the education of children is a thing of that high concerne to the Commonwealth, that in this, Parents should spair no coste whatsoeuer; but rather imi∣tate the old Lacedemonians, who tooke more care of their youth, then of any thing els in their Commonweath. In so much that when Antigonus a••d of them fifty yong youths for hostages, they answered him, that they had rather giue him twice as many made men. Seing then yong youths are the future hopes of families, and Commonwealths, their education ought not to be com∣mitted but to men of great parts and excellent breeding. For I haue allwayes thought, that a yong Noblemans train ought to be like his Clothes; His Lac∣quais and footmen are like his Ga∣loshes,

which he leaues at the dores of those he visits: His Valets de Cham∣bre, are like his night gowne, which he neuer vseth but in his chamber; and leaues them there when he goes in vi∣sits: His gentlemen attendants, are like his seueral rich sutes, which he wears not all at once, but now one, now an other, and sometimes none at all of them: His groome is like his rideing cloake, and neuer appears neare him but vpon the road: But his Gouer∣nour▪ is like his shirt, which is all∣wayes next vnto his skinn and person; and therefore as yong Noblemen are curious to haue their shirts of the finest linnen: so should they haue their Go∣uernours of the finest thread, and the best spunn men that can be found. Hence the ancients as they were care∣full in honouring the memory of those that had binn Gouernours to great Heroes, as of Chyron, Gouernour of Hercules, Iason, Paris, Achilles, and other braue heroes; Miscus Gouernour of Vlysses; Eudorus of Patroclus; Da∣res of Hector; Epitides of Iulus, Con∣nidas of Theseus; all of them choyce men: So they were in chooseing the rar∣est men for that great employment,

to be their childrens Gouernours; that is in their language, Custodes & co∣mites iuuentutis Principum & mag∣natum. For not euery honest and ver∣tuous man (as some Parents think) is fit for this employment▪ Those parts indeed would do well in a Stuard and a Soliciter; but many things els, be∣sides these, must concurre to make vp a good Gouernour. I would haue him then to be not onely a Vertuous man, but a Virtuoso too: not onely an ho∣nest man,* 1.7 but a man of honour too: not onely a gentleman borne, but a gentile man allso by breeding: a man not onely comely of person by nature; but grace∣full allso by art in his garbes and behauiour: a good scholler, but no meere scholler: a man that hath traueled much in forrain countryes; but yet no fickleheaded man: a man of a stout spirit, but yet of a discreet tongue, and who knowes rather to waue quarrels prudently, then to maintain them stout∣ly: a man cheerfull in conuersation, yet fearfull to offend others: a man of that prudence, as to teach his pupil rather to be wise, then witty; and of that example of life, that his deeds may make his pupil beleeue his words:

in fine, I would haue him to be an En∣glishman, no stranger. I speak not this out of an enuy to strangers, but out of a loue to my owne countrymen. For J haue knowne diuers English gentle∣men much wrongd abroad by their Gouernours that were Strangers. Some I haue knowne that led their pupils to Geneua, where they got some French language, but lost all their true English allegiance and respect to Monarchy; others I haue knowne who, being marryed and haueing their setle∣ments and interest lyeing at Saumur, kept yong gentlemen there all the time they were abroad; and made their pa∣rents in England beleeue, that all good breeding was in that poore towne, where their wifes were breeding children. Others I haue knowne who hauing their mistresses in the country, perswad∣ed their yong pupils, men of great birth, that it was fine liuing in a coun∣try house, that is, fine carrying a gunn vpon their necks, and walking a foot. Others haue been obserued to sell their pupils to Masters of exercises, and to haue made them beleeue, that the worst Academyes were the best, be∣cause they were the best to the cunning

Gouernour, who had tenn pound a man for euery one he could draw thi∣ther. Others I haue knowne who would haue marryed their pupils in France, without their Parents knowledge; and haue sacrificed their great trust, to their sordid auarice. Others J haue knowne who haue locked their pupils in a chamber with a wanton woman, and taken the Key away with them. Nay, this I can say more, that of all those strangers that I haue knowne Gouernours to yong Nobleman of England (and I haue knowne seuen or eight.) I neuer Knew one of them to be a gentleman borne; but for the most part, they were needy bold men, whose cheif parts were, their owne language and some Latin; and whose cheif ayme was, to serue themselues, not their pupils.

But to returne againe to our subject, the Parent hauing found out such a Gouernour for his sonn, as we haue described here aboue, he must resigne ouer vnto him his full Authority, and command his sonn to obey him: other∣wise let the Gouernour be the wisest, and the most compleat man in the world, if his pupil do not obey him,

and follow his counsel, all will go wrong. I haue seen great disorders befall for want of this. Hence I haue often thought of great Clemens Alex∣andrinus, who sayth wisely, that our Sauiour Christ is the onely true Pedagogue, or Gouernour, because he can not onely giue the best instruc∣tions to yong men, but also can giue them grace to execute those instructions: whereas other Gouernours (Cassandra like) telling their pupils many excel∣lent truths, are not beleeued by them; nor can they force their inclinations to execute them, except the Parents com∣mands come in to their assistance: and it is but reasonable, that as Gouernours are the Seconds of Parents, in the breeding of their children, so Parents should second Gouernours too, in makeing their children obey them. And so much for the Parents care.

For the son̄s care, it must bee this. First to take a view of England before he enter into forrain countryes. This will enure him to trauel, to see company, to obserue townes and rarityes, and shar∣pen his appetite for forrain curiosi••yes. I would wish him withall in traueling ouer England, to fall in, as often as he

can, with the Iudges in their cir∣cuits, not onely to see how his country is gouerned in point of judicature, but allso to see the gentry of seueral coun∣tryes, who flock to great townes in the assise week. It would be allso pro∣fitable to him, to cast to be at all the cheif Horsraces, where he will ea∣sily see allso the gentry of the seuerall counties in a compendious view. Haue∣ing thus seen his owne country in a summers space, and haueing got his Majesties licence to trauel beyond the seas (in which Licence I could wish this clause were inserted, That all yong gentlemen should at their returne, present themselues to his Majesty, to giue him an account of their trauels and obseruations) I would haue him depart England about the beginning of October.

2. At his going out of England, let him take his ayme right; that is, let him ayme altogether at his profit, and not at his pleasures onely. J haue knowne many Englishmen who for want of right ayming, haue missed the white of breeding, whole heauens breadth. For some in traueling, ayme at nothing but to get loose, from their

Parents, or schoolmasters, and to haue the fingering of a pretty allow∣ance; and these men when they come into France, care for seeing no court, but the Tenniscourt; delight in seing no Balls but Tennisballs; and forsake any company, to tosse whole dayes together with a tattered Marker in the Tripot.

Others desire to go into Italy, onely because they heare there are fine Curtisanes in Venice; and as the Queen of the Amazons, in Iustin, went thirteen dayes journey out of her country, onely to haue a nights lodge∣ing with Alexander the Great, so these men trauel a whole month together, to Venice, for a nights lodge∣ing with an impudent woman. And thus by a false ayming at breeding a∣broad, they returne with those diseases which hinder them from breeding at home.

Others trauel abroad, as our ship-boyes do into the Indies: for whiles these boyes might bring home Iewels, Pearles, ad many other things of valew, they bring home nothing but firecanes, parots, and Monkies; so our yong trauelers, whiles they

might bring home many rich obserua∣tions, for the gouerning themselues, and others, bring home nothing but Fire-canes, that is, a hotspur humor, that takes fire at euery word, and talkes of nothing but duels, seconds, and esclair∣eissements: or else parots, that is, come loaden home with rubans and feathers of all colours like parots, and with a few borowed compliments in their mouths, which make them talke like parots: or els Monkies, that is, some affected cringes, shrugs, and such like Apish behauiour.

3. At his embarking let him haue a special care not to carry Himself abroad with Himself in traueling. Many men, sayth Seneca, returne home no better then they went out, because they take themselues along with themselues in traueling: and as a man in a feauer, findes himself no better then he was, by changeing his bed; because he carryes his feauour with him wheresoeuer he lyes: so many yong men returne home tyred, and dirted, but not better and wiser; be∣cause they caryed abroad their bad customes and manners with them. I would then that my yong traueler

should leaue behinde him all will∣fulness, and stubborness; all tenderness, and seeking his ease too much; all effe∣minatnesse and delicateness; all boyish tricks with hands or mouth, and mocking of others; all delighting in being the best man in the company; all familiarity with seruants, and meane men; all Tauernes, and intem∣perancy of eating and drinking; hauing that saying of Seneca often in his mouth, and minde; Major sum & ad majora natus, quàm vt man∣cipium sim corporis mei: I am too great a man, and borne to too great things, for to become the slaue of my body. In fine I would haue him imitate that yong gentleman of whom S. Ambrose speaks; who returning home from forrain trauels, and meet∣ing with his old mistresse, a wanton woman, seemed not to know her; whereat she wondering, told him that ••he was such an one: it may be so, sayd he, but I am no more I. A rare Apothegme, which I would wish my yong Traueler to take for his motto, as well as this yong man for his exemple.

4. Being thus got out of England,

its a great question into what country he should first go, to make his aboad. The common course is, to go first into France, and then into Italy, and so home by Germany, Holand, and Flanders, as J did once: but my opinion is, that its better for a yong man to go first into Italy, and return∣ing by Germany, Holland and Flan∣ders, come into France, to giue himself there the last hand in breeding. And my reason is this; For seing the intention of traueling, is to make a man a wise man, not a finical man, its better to season his minde betimes with a stayd wise breeding, then to fill it vp to the brime at first, with a phantastical giddy breeding, which hauing once gotten possession of the minde, bolts the doore on the inside, locks out all staydness, and makes my yong man delight in nothing but vanity, clothes, danceing, liueryes, bals, and such meere outsides. I would therefore haue my yong noblemans Gouernour to carry him immediatly into Italy at fifteen or sixteen, and there season his minde with the gra∣uity, and wise maximes of that Na∣tion, which hath ciuilized the whole

world, and taught Man Manhood. Hauing spent two, or three yeares in Italy in learning the language, view∣ing the seueral courts, studdying their maximes, imitating their gentile con∣uersation, and following the sweet exercises of musick, painting, archi∣tecture, and mathematicks, he will at his returne, know what true vse to make of France. And hauing spent three yeares more there, in learning to fence, dance, ride, vault, handle his pike, musket, coulors &c. The Map, history, and bookes of Policy; he will be ready to come home at twenty, or one and twenty, a man most compleat both in body, and mind; and fit to fill the place of his call∣ing.

5. I say, make true vs of France: For I would not haue my yong traueler imitate all things he sees done in France, or other forrain countryes.* 1.8 I would haue him learne of the French a hansome confidence; but not an ••mpudent boldness. He must learne of them to come into à Roome with a ••onne mine; but not to rush into a mans chamber, as they do, without so much as knocking at the doore. He

must learne of them to dance well, to get a good grace in walkeing, and saluting, as they do: but he must not dance as he walkes, as many of them do. He must learne of the French, to become any clothes well; but he must not follow them in all their Phantas∣tical and fanfaron clothings. He must learne to fence well, as they do; but I would haue his sword stick faster in the scabbard then theirs do. In fine, I would haue him open, ayry, and gallant, as they are: but not affecting to be the Gallands of all Ladyes, as they do.

* 1.9So in Italy, J would haue him learne to make a fine house; but J would not haue him learne of the Italians to keep a good house. He may learne of them to be sober, and wise: but I would not haue him learne of them be gealous and dis∣trustfull. I would haue him learne of the Italians, to receiue those that visite him, with great ciuility and respect; but I would not haue him stand vpon all their little formes and incommodi∣ous puntiglios. I would haue him to be free of his Hat, as they are: but I would haue the heart

to go to the Hat, as well as the hand.

Jn Germany I would haue him learne to offer a man a cup of wine at his comeing in;* 1.10 but I would not haue him presse so much wine vpon him, as he shall not be able ••o go out againe, as they often do. I would haue him learne of them to go freely to warre for the defence of his country: but I would not haue him learne the custome of those vendible souls there, who carry their lifes to market, and serue any Prince for money. I like well their shakeing hands with you, when you first enter into their houses; but I like not their quarreling with you for not pledgeing a health of a yard long, which would ruine yours. I like very much their sin∣gular modesty and chastity, which allowes not bastards to be freemen of the most ordinary trads: but I like not their endlesse drinking in feasts, which is able to make them freemen of all vices.

In Holland allso I would haue him learne to keep his house and harth neat,* 1.11 but I would no•• haue him adore his house, and stand in such awe of his harth, as not to dare to make

a fire in it, as they do. I would haue him learne of them, a spare dyet; but I would not haue him drink so much, as would keep him both in good dyet and clothes, as they do. I would haue him learne of them their great industry, and oeconomy: but not their rude exacting vpon Noblemen strangers in their Inns, for their Quality sake onely, as they do. I would haue him learne of them a singular loue to his country: but he must take heed of their clownish hatred of Nobility. Thus in all countryes I would haue my yong Traueler do, as men do at a great feast, where ther is no feare of staruing; that is, not eate greedily of all thats before him, but fall to the best meats, and leaue the worst for the waiters.

6. That he may follow the foresayd rule the better, and pick out of euery country whats the best in it, let his Gouernour lead him betimes into the best company; for there the best lessons are to be learned. Now by the word best, I do not meane the greatest men in birth, but in parts. For the world is not so happy, as that the greatest men are allwayes the best: but by

the word best, I meane those that a••e the wisest, the best bred, the best principled, the best behaued, and the most cryed vp by ciuil persons: for of such men much is to be learned: Their life is a perpetual lecture; their words so many oracles; their discourses so many wise maxims: and though yong men be not able to bring their dish with them, and clubb wit equally with these men, yet its a great matter to sit still in their com∣pany, and be a respectfull catechumen to them. For if it be true which Quintillian sayth of those that loue Cicero, Ciceronem amasse, profecisse est, its allso most certain, that a man that loues good company, must be good himself in time.

7. And that he may be able to appeare in good company without blushing, his Gouernour must get him, as soone as he can, to speak the language of the place in hansome tearmes, and with a good accent. Next he must haue a care that he be well adjusted and set out in appa∣rel. For if anciently Iewels were called the Vshers of Ladyes, because all doores flew open to them that

presented themselues so richly adorned: so now a dayes good clothes may be called mens vshers, seeing they make way for them into all companyes. He must haue a care that he know his Congies perfectly, and haue a free garbe or carriage; a Cauallier way of entering into a Roome; a gratefull manegeing of his mouth and smiles; a chyronomie, or decent acting with his handes, which may humour his words grauely and freely, yet not affectedly or mimically: in fine, a liberty or freedome in all his actions, which The French call liber∣té du corps; and it must appeare to be à la negligence, and yet must be per∣fectly studdyed a fore hand. And though these things be but the Ele∣ments and Alphabet of breeding, yet without them he can neuer spel gent∣leman rightly, though his inside be neuer so good. Indeed its long ago, that great men dwell no more in thatched houses.

8. But it is not enough to get him into Language and Garbes, if he get him not into Coach and Liueryes, without which he can neuer appeare at Court, or in good company, espe∣cially

in Rome and Paris; the two cheif townes of long abode abroad. For let a man be of a Race as ancient as the Autocthenes of Athens, who sayd they were as ancient as the Earth;* 1.12 and let him quarter his coat of Armes with the three Lyons of England, and the three Flower de-lys of France, as I know a gentleman of little Britany doth, (by the grant anciently of both those kings) yet I dare boldly say this, that in Paris no colours blazon a mans nobility behind his coache so much, as three Lacquais and a Page, in a han∣some Liuery. In other townes of France, where yong gentlemen vse to liue at first, till they get the language, a couple of sadle horses would be very vsefull, both to take the ayre on, as allso to visit the gentry in the country at their summer houses, where a Man will fine great ciuilityes, and diuer∣tisments. Besides rideing out so in the fresh euenings of summer, will not onely weane my yong gentleman from little company, and the crowd of his countrymen who will be then pressing vpon him; but will allso afford his Gouernour many fine solitary occasi∣ons of plying him alone with good coun∣sels

and instructions.

9. And seing J haue touched some∣thing aboue of his seruants, and Lac∣quais, I will adde this, that seing it is none of the least blessings of a yong gent∣leman to haue good seruants about him, it belongs to his Gouernour, not onely to choose him good ones, but allso to haue power to turne away bad ones. Many men carry ouer with them English seruants, because they were their schoolfellowes, or their tennants sonns: and these are little vsefull for a long time, and euen then when a man hath most need of seruants. Besides, they are often too familiar with their masters, their old play-fellowes; and as often troublesome to their Gouernours, by takeing their yong masters part against them; and by raueling out at night, as they get their masters to bed, all that the pru∣dent Gouernour hath been working in the day time. Others carry ouer Frenchmen with them; but these often, by reason of their prerogatiue of language, which their masters want at first, get such an ascendent ouer them, that they come oftentimes to be too bold, and sawcy with them. For my

part, I would haue his Gouernour, to take him new seruants in euery place he comes to stay; and those sightly, rather then too sprightly youths: Dull people are made to tugg at the oare of obedience, sayth Aris∣totle, w••iles witty people are fitter to sit at the helme of command.

10. But I am to blame to giue aduice to Gouernours whom I suppose to be wiser men then my selfe; and therefore will end here, by wishing them a good journey, and safe returne: To the effecting of both which, I found no better secret, them that in my last journey, which was to be mounted vpon our owne horses, (fiue of vs together) and to spare for no cost: for by this means, we went at our owne rates, and eat to our owne mindes: so true is the Italian Prouerbe; Picole giornate, egrandi spese, ti conducono sano al tuo paese.

In fine, I would haue my yong traueler make the same prayer of God, as Apollonius Thyanaeus made to the Sunn, at his going out to trauell, that is, that hee would bee so fauourable to him as to shew him all the Brauest and Best men in the world.

Notes

• * 1.1

  M. War∣cupp. M. Ray∣mond.
• * 1.2

  The profit of trauel∣ing.
• * 1.3

  Senec.
• * 1.4

  Senec:
• * 1.5

  Strada de Bello Belg.
• * 1.6

  The Tra∣ueling with profit▪
• * 1.7

  The Cha∣racter of a good Go∣uernour.
• * 1.8

  What to be learnt in France, and what not.
• * 1.9

  What in Italy, and what not.
• * 1.10

  What in Germany, and wha•• not.
• * 1.11

  What in Holland, and what not.
• * 1.12

  Plutarch.