The compleat gard'ner, or, Directions for cultivating and right ordering of fruit-gardens and kitchen-gardens with divers reflections on several parts of husbandry, in six books : to which is added, his treatise of orange-trees, with the raising of melons, omitted in the French editions / by the famous Monsr De La Quintinye ... ; made English by John Evelyn ... ; illustrated with copper plates.

[illustration]

(Book 2)

OF FRUIT-GARDENS AND Kitchen-Gardens. VOL. II. (Book 2)

PART IV.

Of Pruning of Fruit-Trees.

The INTRODUCTION.

GEnerally speaking, Pruning of Trees is Cutting off some of their Branches; and so we commonly say, that a Tree is prun'd, when many marks appear of Branches being cut off. We likewise say, that a Gard'ner prunes, when he is cutting some Branches from his Trees with his Pruning-Knife. This Pruning has been look'd upon in all Times, among the Curious in Fruit-Trees, as the Master-piece of Gard'ning: And, indeed, the Practice of it began not in our Days, for it was held as a Maxim many Ages since, as it appears by the Testimony of the Ancients; so that, to speak the Truth, we only fol∣low * 1.1 now, or perhaps improve what was practis'd by our Fore-fathers.

This Custom of Pruning does not commonly extend to all sorts of Fruit-Trees, only to such as are known in Gardens by the Names of Espaliers, or Wall-Fruit-Trees, Counter-Espaliers or Pole-Hedges and Dwarfs. As for those that are called Tall-standards, they are seldom prun'd, unless it be once or twice in their first Years, either to give them the first Turn of a Round Figure, and Overture, which is requisite at the time they first begin to form an Head; or to take away some irregular Branches, which in process of Time might intangle or dis∣figure that Head; which Pruning is absolutely necessary. A kind of Pruning is like∣wise practis'd upon very old Tall-standards, by cutting off the dead or languishing Branches, both large and small; but that is rather called Cleansing, or Dis-incumbring, than Pruning.

Although the first Idea People have of Pruning, is commonly in relation to the Heads of Trees, that is, their Branches, which frequently want some Correction, to be put in a way of doing well, according to the Mind of their Master; yet notwith∣standing, there is still another Trimming which is very material, and that is the Trimming of Roots; which is perform'd upon two Occasions; of which, the one, that is the most common, is generally practis'd upon all Trees, before they are planted; (which I have suf∣ficiently mention'd in the Treatise of Plantations:) The other, which is extraordinary, is only made use of upon some on the Place, according as one designs to make some more, and others less vigorous than they are. This I will speak of at the End of this Treatise.

This Maxim, or Necessity of Pruning the Heads of all Trees, not being Tall-standards, being well establish'd, tho there are some Erroneous Opinions in it, in relation to very vigorous Dwarfs, which I shall easily destroy. I think my self indispensibly oblig'd to examine here, as much as in me lies, whatever relates to so renown'd a Practice in the Management of Fruit-Trees; therefore I protest, at first, that I will make no particular Re∣serve to my self; but on the contrary, that I will use my utmost Endeavour, not to omit any thing whatever of what I have been able to apprehend in it hitherto, and of what I have so long practis'd with Success.

I am persuaded that Pruning is not only a very useful, but also a very curious thing, and capable of affording Pleasure to those that understand it: But at the same time it must be acknowledg'd, that it is likewise perpicious, or dangerous, when perform'd by unskilful Hands.

For, to speak properly, Pruning, in the Sense we take it, is not barely Cutting; every * 1.2 body cuts, but few prune; nothing is more easie than to cut: And it may even sometimes hap∣pen by chance, that what has been cut without discretion, may succeed well enough, tho for the most part the Consequences prove very bad; whereas there being a great deal of Judgment and Rule in Pruning skilfully, the Success is generally certain, at least, as to what may depend on the Gard'ner; for all does not depend on him: It is well known that he is neither Master of Times, or Seasons; which must of necessity, and chiefly con∣curr to the perfecting His Work. And therefore, when People have not that Abundance of Fruit they desire, and did hope for, the Fault ought not always to be imputed to the Gard'ner: He is only blameable when his Trees are not-well shap'd, when they do not blossom abundantly, and when the Fruit is not universally and equally beautiful, so as to see, upon one and the same Tree, Fruit of very different sizes; for he is partly Master of that.

CHAP. I.

Definition of the Pruning of Trees.

To let you understand what this Pruning is; I say, that it is an Operation of Gard∣ning for three Things, which are to be done yearly to Trees, betwixt the begin∣ning of the Month of November, and the End of March:

The First is, To take away all those Branches that are naught, or might be prejudicial, either to the Abundance, or Goodness of the Fruit; as also to the Beauty of the Tree.

The Second, To preserve all those that may be of good use to those Trees:

And the Third, Prudently to clip those that are found too long, and not to cut any thing off those that have not too much length.

And all this in order to make a Tree lasting, to beautifie it, and at the same time dis∣pose it soon to bear a great deal of fine and good Fruit.

By Branches that are naught, I mean those that are of false Wood, those that are decay'd by having yielded much Fruit, and those that are too small, or have no disposition to pro∣duce either Wood or Fruit.

By Branches that may be prejudicial, either to the Beauty of the Tree, Abundance, or Goodness of the Fruit, I mean such as might cause a Confusion, or shadow the Fruit, as well as those that take part of the Sap of the Tree, when it is over-charg'd with Wood, compar'd to its Vigour.

By Branches that may be of good Use, I mean all those that are so well condition'd, as to be fit to contribute to the beautiful Figure of the Tree, and Infallibly to produce Fruit.

By Branches that are too long, I mean such as exceed nine or ten Inches in length, and so consequently want to be shorten'd; such are all the thick Branches, which we call Branches for Wood; and some of the small ones, which we call Branches for Fruit.

In fine, By Branches that have not too much length, I mean certain little Branches, which being of a moderate Thickness, have Buds at the Ends of them, or are in a Disposi∣tion of having some the following Year, and yet are strong enough to bear the Fruit they are to produce, without breaking.

This so material Distinction in point of Branches, shall be more particularly explain'd in the Chapters that treat of the Manner of Pruning.

I will say nothing here of the Original of Pruning, by reason that what has been said of it is fabulous, and ridiculous, and consequently cannot at present serve for Instruction. For Example, What signifies it to know, that some pretend to derive the Original of Pruning from that Province of Greece, which was called Nauptia; a Country a∣bounding in Vineyards: An Ass having brouz'd or nibbl'd some Branches of Vines, it was observ'd that the nibbl'd Branches produc'd a great many more Grapes, than those that were untouch'd; which made them resolve thenceforward to shorten, or break, or cut, that is, to prune all the Branches of Vines. It is moreover reported, that so much Success attended this Experiment, that to express their Acknowledgment of so fine an Invention, they erected in one of the finest Places of that Province, a Marble Statue to that Animal, as to the Author of Pruning of Vines; that is to say, to the Author of the Abundance of Wine. And our Books tell us, that this is the true Reason of Bacchus's being drawn mounted upon an Ass.

The Usefulness of Pruning Vines being visible; it was judg'd from thence, that it would not be less advantageous to prune Fruit-Trees; and thus, in the Beginnings, they did in this, as has been done in all other Arts and Sciences, they begun to cut grosly, that is, to prune some of the Branches of Trees, till by degrees they have study'd to refine upon it; and, even in these Days, People still study, by Reason and Observation, to improve, and render themselves more and more perfect in it. This is the Information we receive from Books, as to the Original of Pruning: It will easily be granted, that this is not a very material Thing. But, What is very necessary to be known,

Are three principal Points; without the understanding of which, it seems impossible to me, either to speak well of this Pruning, or to perform it.

• The First relates to the Reasons for which it is done.
• The Second, To the Time in which it must be done.
• And the Third relates to the Manner of doing it with Skill and Success.

Let us examine these three Points, one after another.

CHAP. II.

Of the Reasons of Pruning.

I Will begin with the Reasons for which Pruning is used, which, in my Opinion, are two. The First, and chief, is, That which Pruning aims at, The speedy getting of abun∣dance of fine and good Fruit; without which, no Fruit-Trees would be had, or culti∣vated.

The Second, which is pretty considerable, informs us, That Pruning serves to make Trees, in all Seasons, even in those in which they have neither Fruit nor Leaves, appear more agreeable to Sight, than they would do if they were not prun'd.

Now, the Satisfaction of the Sight in this last Point depends wholly upon the well-un∣derstood, and well-proportion'd Figure, a skilful Hand is capable of giving to each Tree.

And, as to what relates to the Abundance of fine and good Fruit, as much as the In∣dustry of the Gard'ner can contribute to it, it depends first upon the Knowledge he must have of every Branch in particular, to know those that are good, from those that are not: It depends, in the second place, upon the judicious Distinction which is to be made among the Branches, wholly to take away those that are bad, or useless, and carefully to preserve all the good ones, be they Branches for Wood, or Branches for Fruit; with this caution, that if among these last, some be found not too long, they shall be left as they are: But as to the main, of the others which are too long, they must be Prun'd more or less, according as Reason may require, either as to the Abundance, or even to the Figure of the Tree. This abundance depends, in the third Place, upon the proper time of Prun∣ing, all times not being fit for it.

In relation to the two first Heads, which relate to the Knowledge and Distinction of Branches in general, I shall shew hereafter in what Order, and to what Use Nature pro∣duces them upon Fruit-Trees; how some are useful for one thing, others for another, and

chiefly how some have more Disposition to Fructify, and others less; and shall conclude from thence, that it is according to that Order, and that Intention of Nature, and accord∣ing to that more or less Disposition, that those Branches must be Order'd and Prun'd in a different manner, the one from the other.

But before I enter any farther into that matter, which has a great extent, since I must therein explain, especially the Manner, or Rules that must be practis'd in the Pruning of a great number of Trees, which commonly are very different the one from the other; I think, it will not be improper to say first, and as briefly as I can, what I think of the Time of Pruning, since that Article is soonest decided.

CHAP. III.

Of the Time of Pruning.

THere is but little to be said upon the Time of Pruning, because that by a general Ap∣probation, it is commonly fix'd to the End of Winter, or at the Beginning of the Spring; that is, a little before the Trees sprout, and partly about the time that the Buds begin to swell, in order to become Blossoms, and the others to stretch out to become Branches: Which happens infallibly, after the great Colds (which generally attend the Months of November, December, January, and February, are past;) the Spring coming in, and consequently the Air beginning to grow hot, and mild, the Plants, that had wholly ceas'd to act during four Months, begin, as it were, to waken, and really to enter into Action: That first Motion is constantly perform'd at the Head, before it begins at the Roots; that is to be understood, when the Cold has been so great, as to interrupt their Function; for among us, in mild Winters, there is not much more Interruption, than in very hot Countries. We shall shew this Order in another place. This External Renew∣ing of Action is a certain Sign that it is time to prune.

People were formerly so scrupulous as to the precise Time of Pruning, that they durst not absolutely labour about it, but in the Decrease of the Moons of February and March: It was almost the only Maxim, in that Case, that appear'd well establish'd, and was in effect inviolably observed. It may be said, that it was a kind of Rote, which most Gard∣ners affected with an incredible Obstinacy; or rather, that it was a kind of Tyranny, which they exercis'd, when they were employ'd by Gentlemen who were Lovers of their Fruit-Trees. That Custom was grown to that heighth, that both the one and the other would have thought all lost, had any thing been prun'd out of those Declinings: It was an Epidemical Distemper; of which, there are still but too many ill Remains. I grant that in other things that are above my Reach, and in which I have no Insight, it may be necessary to observe the Motions of the Moon; but as to the Pruning of Trees, and what∣ever has any relation to Gard'ning, I will take upon me to shew hereafter, in a Treatise of some Reflections I have made upon Husbandry, that those Observations are not only vain, but even Chimerical. And whereas I was formerly infected with that Opinion my self, and am now fully disabus'd of it, I do not despair of ridding Gard'ners of that kind of Notion, or Ignorance, and at the same time cure the Disquiets of several ingenious Men upon that Subject.

'Tis true, that it is very good to prune at the End of February, and at the Beginning * 1.3 of March, which are commonly Times of Decrease; but it is likewise as true, that without minding the Moon, one may begin to prune as soon as the Leaves of the Trees are faln; that is, at the End of October, or, at least, about the Middle of November; which may be continu'd afterwards for the whole Winter, until all be done. And, because that hav∣ing commonly three sorts of Trees to prune; the one too weak, the other too vigorous, and the others that are in as good a Case as can be desir'd, I am of Opinion that it may be both prudent and useful, not to prune them all at the same time; and that it is proper to prune some sooner, and others later. For Example, I am sufficiently persuaded, that the weaker, and more languishing a Tree is, the sooner it ought to be prun'd, to take from it betimes those Branches which, as noisom and useless, must be taken from it at ano∣ther time; that is, towards the End of the Winter. And this is the Reason why the Pruning in November, December, and January is very good and wholesom in relation to these; and even better than that of February and March. And, by the Rule of Con∣traries, the stronger and more vigorous a Tree is, the longer the Pruning of it may be de∣ferr'd; I mean, as to such an one, that the Pruning of it may not only safely, but also very usefully be deferr'd until the End of April.

I advance in this, two Principles, which appear pretty new: Those that are desirous to see the certain Proof of it, may continue to read what follows: As for those who are wil∣ling to rely upon my Word and Experience, and are only desirous to see the Sequel of my manner of Practising, they may skip over the Remainder of this Chapter, to proceed to that wherein I explain the Reasons why Pruning is necessary.

To establish the two Principles I have heretofore advanc'd, I make use of two Compa∣risons, whereof the first, which relates to the Pruning of weak Trees, is drawn from the Conduct of certain frugal Millers, who, with a small quantity of Water, find the Means to manage a Mill that requires a great deal. The Second, which relates to the Pruning of very vigorous Trees, is taken from other Millers, who knowing how dangerous great Streams of Rising Waters are to their Mills, for a Time suffer the Abundance of Water; which might annoy them, to flow gently by; and the Violence of it being over, they shut their Sluce, or Water-gate, and afterwards employ the Remainder of their Water; according as may be expedient for the Number of Wheels they are to ply.

For the Understanding of these two Comparisons, I say, that the Sap in every Tree ap∣pears to me to be partly the same as Water is in every River: I will say in another place, what Water is in the Pipes of spouting Fountains.

Whether Rivers be large or small, it is still certain that they are beautiful, provided that the Channel of each, whatever it may be, be commonly furnish'd with a quantity of Water proportionable to it; without which, they are miserable, and of no Consideration: So is a Tree likewise esteem'd beautiful, whatever Size it be of, (there being both Great and Small,) provided that Tree yearly produces sufficient fine shoots; from all its Parts; and in quantity, proportionable to its present heighth and thickness, or bulk; without which, a Tree is certainly both ugly and miserable.

It is certain, that while a Tree is in a good Ground, and well, the Weather not being so cold, as to freeze the Ground as far as the Roots; for such a Cold stops all manner of vegetation; in such a case, the extremities of the old Roots, still produce other new ones, and consequently still produce a new Sap, as I prove in my Reflections, and so there per∣petually rises a Sap, both into the Stem of the Tree, and in all the Branches which compose the head or top of it; and this, more or less in the whole extent of each, according as the Sap is in it self more or less abounding; just as it is in a River, while the Source is good, and no ways obstructed, the Water flows continually, not only in the Bed or Channel, which Art and Nature have provided for it, but also, generally into all the Branches into which it may divide it self; that is to say, into all the Brooks, or Rivulets, which may form themselves along its course, and that more or less, according as that Wa∣ter is in it self more or less abounding.

When we find that a Tree has but little vigour, and produces no fine Shoots; or that having been vigorous the preceeding Years, it ceases to be so, so as to produce no more Shoots, or at least, none but very small and inconsiderable ones, we may say that it is an Infallible mark, either, that the Source of the Sap is Naturally weak and small, or that it is become so; so that being no longer capable of performing any effect in long Branches, nor in many, and yet it being necessary it should produce some for our Profit and Satisfaction; we must betimes ease that Tree of its burthen, which is too great, considering its want of Strength and Vigour, and so consequently betimes, wholly cut off a great part of its Branches, to the end, that we may, as soon as possibly can be, stop many of those over∣tures through which part of the Sap of that Tree did enter; and so that, which for Ex∣ample, being divided into forty boughs seem'd to produce but little effect in each, the same being afterwards contracted, and distributed into half the quantity, will be found sufficient to perform much greater Productions upon that Tree, tho' indeed less numerous: It was like a River, whose Source or Spring, was either Naturally weak, or considerably diminish'd, and which, notwithstanding that being yet divided into too many Branches; could not perform any thing considerable in any of them; but the same being industri∣ously contracted, or reduc'd, and kept within narrow bounds, so that for the future no part of it may be lost, as it us'd to be; is thereby enabl'd, at least to turn some Wheel. A Dam, or Sluce made betimes, have perform'd in this, what the good Fortune of a more abounding River would have done, as to several Wheels.

This Reason has induc'd me to advice the Pruning of weak Trees betimes, and the same Reason informs us, that they must be cut very short, as we will demonstrate hereafter.

Now, that which is a convincing Argument, in relation to the Pruning of these, must, in my Opinion, by the Rule of contraries, serve to direct us as to the Pruning of vigorous Trees; be it either to do it later, or to leave a greater burthen upon each of them.

It is most certain, that we only have Fruit-Trees, in order to have Fruit; and it is as

certain, that Fruit commonly grows upon those weak Branches only; the large ones bear but little, their Function being to perform something else, which is very considerable: Thus great Torrents are not fit to grind, on the contrary, they are apt to choak or stop up a Mill, or to break all; their Function is to serve to other things; for instance, for the Transportation of Travellers, Burthens, Merchandises, &c. So that none but those that are moderate, can be useful for Grinding; So likewise, a Tree being very vigorous, ge∣nerally produces none but large Branches, especially at the beginning of the Spring, at which time the Sap rises most, and can begin none of those weak ones, which we stand in need of for Fruit.

Now to such a Tree that must be Prun'd in order to yield Fruit, and yet retain a pleasing Figure; you must not only leave a great burthen, whether it be as to the num∣ber of Branches, or the length of every one of them, which is certainly absolutely neces∣sary, but there must be something more: And as it is particularly on those extremities, that the new Sap performs most at the entrance of the Spring, it is necessary, as one may say, to let the heat and fury of its first Action discharge it self: And therefore it is fit to Prune such a Tree later; that is, it must not be done until the first impetuosity of the Sap be pass'd; there will yet remain enough in it, to make those kind of Branches so Prun'd, afterwards shoot out, at the same time, both large Shoots for the Figure, and of those small ones which we desire for Fruit.

Not but that, as I will shew hereafter, the best Expedient in relation to very vigorous Trees; and even, if I may express my self so, obstinate in point of Fruit; I say, the best Expedient, is to go to the Source of their Vigour, which are the Roots: It is that Vigour which must be weaken'd, and consequently the most working Roots: diminish'd, and thereby you will diminish the effect which proceeds from several good Labourers; which acting at one and the same time, produce more Sap than is requir'd to such a Fruit-Tree: For, in fine, that Tree must according to our intention, quickly bear Fruit in a constrain'd Figure, the which is in no wise Natural to it; which it cannot do, when the Sap, being over abundant, produces every where, none but over large Branches.

The Experience which every one may acquire in the practice of these two Maxims, and particularly that which relates to the Pruning of weak Trees; that Experience, I say, will perfectly establish them for ever; and as for other Trees, I engage that every body will find a benefit by it; and I affirm, above all things, that it will be a great help to all Gard'ners, who are to mannage great Fruit-Gardens; and who, as it is very much to be wish'd, will Prune the greatest part of their Trees themselves.

As I am of Opinion, that they can do no better than to follow this Advice, so they appear to me very blame-worthy, if they tarry to the end of Winter, and the time of those decreases of the Moons, of February and March, to begin to Prune; because, that is the greatest time of hurry for all manner of work relating to Gard'ners: All comes at once at the entrance of the Spring; the Tillage of the whole Garden, the Sowing of most Kitchen-Plants, the Budding of Artichokes, the making of the different Beds, the cleansing of the Walks; so that it is a strange confusion, to have at the same time, the most considerable of all Works to do; for it is the only one, in which no small faults can be committed, they are all considerable and pernicious; it is the Pruning of many Trees, and perhaps large Trees, Dwarfs and Espaliers, or Wall-Trees; without omitting the first pallisading of these; and whereas in that case, all things are done in a hurry, so they are commonly ill enough done: For to speak the Truth, every thing requiring an equal haste to be done, there are but few to which a Man can give that time, and application, which they require.

I have said by the by, that I did no ways matter the decrease of the Moon, &c. But I have not answer'd an Objection which some Gard'ners pretend to be invincible, and in which, in my Opinion, they are infinitely deceiv'd; it is, say they, That the Winter Frost may spoil the extremities of the Branch that is Prun'd; and that if it be not to be fear'd so much for Kernel-Fruits, yet at least it is very dangerous for Stone-Fruit, they pre∣tending that the Wood of those Trees is very tender, because it is very pithy; I will only desire those scrupulous Persons, to lay aside that apprehension, and I assure them, that the Experiment they will make of it, without prejudice, will fully cure them of their Er∣ror; we have had within these Seven or Eighth Years, the hardest Winters in the Memo∣ry of any Living Man. I had Prun'd my Peach-Trees before that great Cold, and I never found the least inconveniency by it.

I am fully perswaded, that it is safe to Prune as often as the Cold is not so violent, as personally to prejudice the Pruner; there are only certain days of white or hoary Frost, in which the Wood being altogether cover'd with a rimy Frost, the Pruning-knife, tho' never so sharp, cannot cut through it cleverly; and so, whereas a Man ought to Prune

with delight; to do it well, 'tis certainly impossible at that time, and therefore it is neces∣sary to defer Pruning, until that Frost be altogether melted and gone.

The proper times for Pruning being regulated, we must proceed to something more Material and Curious.

As nothing is more creditable and Natural for a Workman, than to know certainly, why, and for what Reason, he does the Work he is employ'd about; so I am perswaded, that nothing can be more stupid, and below a Man, than to Act barely by Custom, and Habit: It is a fault which is but too common amongst most Gard'ners; they seldom Prune for any other Reason, than that it is customary. I am convinc'd that there is an indi∣spencible Necessity of knowing something more; without which, it is impossible ever to attain to any perfection in Pruning, which in my Opinion is an undeniable Truth: I cannot endure that a Gard'ner should be puzzl'd, and almost quite at a loss, when any body desires to know the Reasons of his Pruning: And that is the Subject I intend to Treat of in the following Chapter.

CHAP. IV.

Of the Reasons that oblige to Prune.

WE have two principal Reasons, which Prescribe and Authorise Pruning.

The First is, To be sure to have a greater abundance of fine Fruit, and sooner.

The Second is, To render the Tree at all times more agreeable to sight, than it would be, if it were not Prun'd: It is undeniable, that it is not only the Fruit and Leaves that render a Tree beautiful: They are indeed its greatest Ornaments, but there is something more requir'd; since the Fruit not remaining upon it all the Year round, it were to be wish'd, that when it is stript of those Adornments, or is not yet old enough to have them all; it may at least be compos'd, and shap'd so, as to delight the Eye.

Now that which, besides the importance of Fruit, renders a Tree pleasing to the Eye, is nothing but the beautiful Figure a skilful Gard'ner can give to it: And whereas we have two sorts of Trees, upon which particularly we Exercise Pruning, to wit Dwarfs, and Wall-Trees, we must establish good Principles to proceed prudently upon both: Those Princi∣ples relate particularly to the thick Branches, without which we cannot have beautiful Dwarfs; and by means of which it is easie, and even Infallible, to attain to a perfection in it; the whole Mystery of that Operation, shall be discover'd in the Chapters that Treat of the manner of Pruning Dwarfs; and Wall-Trees, there being no other Rules for the one than for the other.

I say first, That for those two sorts of Trees, it must be granted, that their Figures being so opposite the one to the other, the Beauty consequently must needs be so too, therefore I think it will not be amiss, to shew in what, particularly, I faney, that those two diffe∣rent kind of Beauties may consist.

And perhaps, after that, it will not be improper to compare, in that respect, a good Gard'ner, to a skilful Carver; For as the latter, conformably to the Idea which fills his Imagination, ought at first sight, to behold in his Marble, the Figure he designs to work out of it, and consequently to behold distinctly in it, the place of every particular Beau∣ty, of which it is to be compos'd.

So an Understanding Gard'ner, conformably to the Idea he shall have fram'd to him∣self of a fine Tree, must at a view behold whatever is to be done in any Tree, either to beautifie it, when it is not so, or to preserve it in its Beauty, when it has acquir'd it; whether it be to render it useful; or, for Example, to see where the Fruit shall be, and consequently the Branches that shall produce it; to observe the Branches that must be taken off, and those that must be preserv'd, to give it an agreeable Figure, &c. And as from time to time, the Carver draws back from his Work, to see whether he has per∣form'd or executed his Thought well; so a skilful Gard'ner, in Pruning his Tree, ought to do the same thing; that is, to draw back from it, from time to time, to see whether he has really hit upon the beautiful Figure he designs to give it.

But before we enter into the explication of that Idea, or Notion of Beauty in Trees, it will be necessary to remember, That, as I have said in my Treatise of Plantations, we have but few of those that are call'd Fruit-Trees, that Naturally remain Low, Dwarfish, and, as I may say, Creeping enough, either to make regular Dwarfs, or yet less, to make Wall-Trees: All Trees, following the Inclination which Nature has given them, endeavour

to rise, and consequently 'tis only the Industry of the Gard'ners, who opposing the Course of Nature, hinders them from forming long Stems, and from growing Tall.

These Gard'ners knowing that, as we have already said, the Sap which is to form those Stems, lies partly in the Trees; much in the same manner, as the water which is to form the Spouts of Water-Works, lies in the Pipes: They have concluded from thence, that if they stopp'd the Passage which carries this Sap upwards, which is easie to do, by short'ning the Stems of the Trees, there wou'd be no further likelyhood of its grow∣ing to be a Standard; and so that Sap which is in motion, or strives to get out, without any possibility of being prevented, finding no longer a passage to rise up, as it ought, will discharge it self at the place where its Course has been interrupted, and will produce the same effect there, it would have done higher, had it had the liberty of ascending further; so that this Sap springing out of the sides, not only by many Overtures, which are al∣ready actually form'd there, but likewise by or through others, that it will make it self, proportionably as it is abundant, it will produce to the right and left a pretty considerable quantity of fine Branches.

I must now tell you, that if the Tree that is shorten'd be Planted in the open Air, it may be dispos'd to make a fine Dwarf; and if near any Wall, to make a fine Wall-Tree. I have also explain'd in the same Treatise of Plantations what is a Dwarf, and what a Wall-Tree. I have there shewn what was the Intention of those that first made them, and of what use they may be to us. I have likewise declar'd in it, that when the Walls are high, you must Plant Long Body'd Trees to garnish the top of the Wall; and that instead of leaving them there the liberty of forming a round Tree, as they wou'd do were they left at liberty, their Branches must be constrain'd, like those of the Trees that are shorten'd, as we will demonstrate; after having first explain'd where∣in the Beauty both of the one and the others does consist; I mean, of Dwarfs, and Wall-Trees.

CHAP. V.

Of the Idea of Beauty which the Dwarfs Require.

THE Beauty of Dwarfs requires two Conditions, the one in respect to the Stem, and the other of the Head: According to the first Condition, Dwarfs must be low Stem; and according to the second, they must have an open Head, that is, free from thick Branches in the middle; it must be round in its Circumference, and equally furnish'd with good Branches on the sides.

I will explain more particularly hereafter what I mean by that Opening of the Middle, and it shall be in the place where I shall give Directions how to attain to it; but in the mean time a Man must have a right apprehension of the four Conditions of that Figure, and be fully perswaded of it, in order to understand usefully my Maxims of Pruning, and grow Skilful in them, in case he approves them so well, as to be willing to Practise them.

I say nothing as yet of the heighth of the Head of those Dwarfs; it depends on the Age of the Trees, being low in those that are yet young, and rising in all according as they grow: But as much as is possible, I wou'd not willingly have it exceed Six or Seven Foot: It being better, in my Opinion, that those Trees shou'd grow in extent of Circum∣ference, and Breadth, than to let them rise high. The Pleasure of Sight, which dreads whatever Limits it too much, particularly in Gardens, besides the Persecution of the Winds, which easily beats down the Fruit of High Trees, makes me fix to that measure. As the Pruning of Dwarfs is incomparably more difficult, and consequently contains a great many more Rules than the Pruning of Wall-Trees. I will begin with that, before I speak of the other.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Idea of Beauty which Wall-Trees require; together with the Maxims of Pallisading.

TO advance our Wall-Trees to that perfection of Beauty which best becomes them; I am of Opinion, that it must be our particular care, that all the Branches of each Tree, in spreading over the sides of that part of the Wall which they are to garnish; must be so well stretch'd, and so equally plac'd, both on the right and lest; that in their whole extent, taking them from the place, whence they severally proceed, as far as all the extremities of their heighth and roundness, no part of the Tree may appear thinner or fuller than another; in so much, that at first sight, one may distinctly see all the Branches that compose it, so far as to be able, to tell them with ease, if so mind∣ed: Thinness is the greatest imperfection of Wall-Trees, as fulness is the greatest fault of Dwarfs; when I say, that I would have my Wall-Trees full, I do not mean, that they should be full of ill Branches, old, worn, or useless, as a great many ignorant Persons affect to have them; neither on the other hand, in desiring my Dwarfs to be open in the middle, would I have them empty, like the inside of a Glass, &c. I do particularly desire all Gard'ners, to be very mindful of these two Ideas of Beauty.

As to the Beauty of Wall-Trees, it is certainly disagreeable, to see their Branches crossing one another, which must be avoided as much as is possible; but whereas thinness, as I have already said, is in my Opinion, the defect the most contrary to the Beauty of those kind of Trees, I am for endeavouring to avoid it above all things; so that for that Reason, I will have it allow'd, nay and order'd too, to run them over one another in some occasions, and that particularly it may be allow'd for the great Branches, which are alone the foundation of all the Beauty of the Tree, to be sometimes drawn over small ones, or the small ones over them, otherwise it would be impossible to avoid the danger of fal∣ling into the disagreeable inconvenience of that unlucky Barrenness.

Those little Branches, which we may in some manner look upon here, as Temporary Branches; are commonly, as we have said, the only ones that must yield Fruit, and that is the Reason, why they have been carefully and preciously preserv'd; but whereas, af∣ter having given that Fruit, they must infallibly perish; they will be soon retrench'd from our Wall-Trees, and consequently they will soon supercede the reproach of crossing, they may have drawn upon the Gard'ner; and he shall thereby be freed from another reproach, which is much more to be fear'd, and that is the want of Fruit.

So then, that crossing must not be us'd, unless there be an absolute necessity; insomuch that when it can be avoided, I condemn the Gard'ners, who, either through Ignorance, or Negligence, have thereby destroy'd the agreeable Simetry their Wall-Trees might have had.

And because, that, in the first place, the only way of giving every one of those Trees the Beauty, which I have been speaking of, is by means of Pruning; and that in the second place, every Tree being compos'd of two Parts; of which the one is call'd the Stock or Stem, and the other the Branches; it is certainly upon those two parts, that the Pruning is to be perform'd, but yet much more upon the Branches, than upon the Stem.

And because, that chiefly in Trees, there are, as we have said, several kind of Branches, very different the one from the other, all having their particular Reasons, either to be taken away, or preserv'd; and among those that are to be preserv'd, some are to be shorten'd, because they are too long, and others to remain whole; so consequently, there must be a great deal of care taken, for the well mannaging of them both.

I do think my self indispensably oblig'd, to endeavour to unravel, if possible, all the distinctions that are to be made among those Branches; or otherwise it will not be possible to understand the Maxims I design to establish for Pruning well.

I am of Opinion, that I must take the same Method in this, as People do in Teach∣ing to Read: The First thing, is to learn the Letters of the Alphabet: The Second, how to use those Letters, to joyn two or three together, to form sillables; And, in fine, the Third, to Learn the Union of many Sillables, in order to make whole Words; and these Words following each other afterwards, compose both the Line and Page, &c.

In the same manner, will I first Teach, how to understand well the Branches of our Fruit-Trees, giving them Names that may express what they are, and then the Use and peculiar Function of each of them; to the end, that several of them, being well plac'd,

may render the Trees Beautiful, and dispose them soon to yield abundance of good Fruit. Perhaps on the occasion of this Comparison, it would not be improper to say; that as in Reading, Words are only form'd by the Reciprocal Function of the Vowels and Con∣sonants; so our Trees only become Beautiful, when they have at one and the same time, a reasonable proportion of Wood and Fruit-Branches; so that as the Vowels, or Conso∣nants asunder, can form no Words, or Discourse; neither can Wood, or Fruit-Branches asunder, compose a Beautiful Fruit-Tree.

CHAP. VII.

Of Branches in General.

RIghtly to understand the Doctrine of Branches; Five material Things must be observ'd.

First, That as they compose a considerable part of the Tree, they sprout out of two parts of it; some shoot directly out of the main body, and those are the first, and may be stil'd, the Elder, or Mothers; their number is not considerable; the others after∣wards are produc'd by these, and are as it were the Daughters of these Mother-Branches: The number of these last is infinite; for successively in their turns, they become every one Mother-Branches, to many others.

It must be noted, in the second place, that from the Body of every Branch, when the Tree is in a good Case, there yearly grow new ones at the extremities of it; and that more or less, according to the strength or weakness of that Branch, which I shall call Mother-Branch, in relation to the new ones it produceth.

In the third place, you must observe that these new Branches grow in two different man∣ners; the one in a Regular Order, which is the best, the most common, and most frequent; the others in an Irregular Order, which is the least common, and least fre∣quent.

That Order, which is most common, and the best of the Production of the new Branches, when they produce more than one, is, that tho' both the one and the other at the same time issue from the extremities of one that is more Ancient, whether Prun'd, or not, they are notwithstanding regularly all of a different thickness, and length; for every one of the highest, are always both thicker and longer than any of those that are imme∣diately under them, drawing nearer to the Body: I said, when it produces more than one; for when the Mother-Branch brings forth but one, the Daughter at the end of the Summer proves as large as the Mother, and is very good; when that Mother yields two, that which is grown from the extremity, which I call the first, or highest, is thicker and longer than that which is grown immediately beneath it, which I name the second, or lowest: And in the same manner, when the Mother-Branch produces three, four, five, &c. As the first, that is the highest, is thicker and longer than the second, so the second in the same manner exceeds the third, the third the fourth; and so by degrees, what ever quan∣tity of new Branches the Mother-Branch may produce, as it appears by the Figures.

This being granted, it is easie to judge, that the Order which is least Common, and worst in the Production of new Branches, is, when the Common Order is inverted, so that there are weak ones in the place where there ought to be thick ones; and that on the con∣trary, there are large ones, where they ought to be weak, and where perhaps there ought to be none; as it appears by the Figure of Branches mark'd with a *.

It is not enough to know whence the Branches proceed, nor the Order in which they come forth; it is requisite to know, in the fourth place, that as that greater or smaller number of Branches, depends upon the force or weakness of the Mother-Branch; I think, that to make my self the better understood, it will be sit to call those strong, which are thick; and to call those weak, which are small; every one of those Branches having their Functions Regulated according to their Degrees of Force, or Weakness; so that they seldom incroach upon one another, being wholly apply'd to the discharge of the first Duty which Nature seems to have impos'd upon them, in forming them.

In the fifth place, you must note, and this is the most Material Point; that among all the Branches, whether strong or weak; there are some which have the real Character of good, of which a great many must be preserv'd: There are likewise some which have the real Character of bad ones; for which reason, a Name of Reprobation is given them: In regularity, almost all these last ought to be expell'd; let us observe how to distinguish the one certainly from the other.

[illustration]

Different Situations of the first Branches produced sometimes, by a Tree newly planted

[illustration]

CHAP. VIII.

To know the difference of Good and Ill Branches.

WE have two Certain and Infallible marks in relation to Fruit-Trees, certainly to distinguish the good and ill Branches from each other, either while they are still upon the Tree, or when they are cut off: The one depends upon the difference of their Scituation, and Original, and the other from the difference of their Eyes, or Buds.

I suppose that every body knows that there are Eyes upon every Branch, which are little knotty places, a little elevated above the rest of the Bark; it is upon those little pla∣ces that the Leaves are actually fix'd, as they are seen there in the Summer time; or at least some have been fix'd there some time before, which may either have dropt of them∣selves, or perhaps have been taken off.

What we learn by that difference of Scituation, and Original, is first, that the Branches to be good, must absolutely, and only proceed from the extremities of those which were remaining upon the Tree, at the entrance of the Spring, whether they were form'd in the last year, or some years before; or likewise whether the one and the others have been Prun'd as is Customary, or not; as it happens sometimes, for Example, in Standard-Trees. In fine, as we only speak here in relation to Trees that are liable to Pruning, it must be granted, that it is only from the extremity of Branches, tho' never so Old, which have been Prun'd, at the Season of the last Pruning, that the New Branches must proceed: In the second place, what we gather from the difference of Scituation, and Original of new Branches, is, That those Branches, to be good, must have been produc'd in the most ordinary and most common Order of Nature, as we have heretofore explain'd it.

From thence two things must be concluded: The first, that any Branch which, instead of being grown from the extremity of that which had been form'd the preceeding Summer, or at least from the extremity of that which had been taken shorter at the last Pruning, proceeds from any other part of the Tree, be it either from the Stem, or some other Old Branch, that had not been Prun'd: I say it must be concluded, that such a Branch, of what∣ever size, thick or small, is an ill Branch, as I will demonstrate hereafter.

And what must be concluded in the second place, is, That any Branch which, instead of being grown in the good order of Nature, being either thicker or longer than that which is immediately beneath it, drawing towards the Superiour Extremity; it must, I say, be concluded that such a Branch is likewise nought: It is for those kind of Branches that the name of false wood has been made, to express that those Branches are incapable of performing what we desire; they must be us'd altogether in a different manner from the good ones. We will set down particular Maxims to that effect.

But whereas I do not think it sufficient to have methinks, pretty intelligibly explain'd the difference of Branches, by that which is grounded upon the difference of their Scitua∣tion, and Original; I will moreover explain the other, which is founded upon the dif∣ference of their Eyes.

The Mark of the good ones by that difference of Eyes, requires that in the whole ex∣tent of the Branch, the Eyes should be thick, and well fed, and very close one to ano∣ther; whereas the mark of the bad ones by those same Eyes, is that in all the lower part of such Branches those Eyes are flat, ill fed, and hardly form'd, and very distant the one from the other.

These two different Marks, as well by Situations, as by Eyes, are easily known in the Figures annex'd hereunto A. B. in which the ill ones are mark'd with a *.

You may see both very good, and very bad ones, as well among the thick and strong ones, as among those that are small and feeble. As to these, their weakness, is sometimes so excessive, that like sapless Branches, incapable of bearing Fruit, or at least of nourishing and sustaining the weight of their Fruit, they must be wholly taken off from our Fruit-Trees, and especially from the Dwarfs, of which the Branches are not tack'd; because that to do well, we must suffer nothing that is not good.

The good weak Branches, I mean those which being well plac'd, and of a mean thick∣ness, and length, are as it were proper and certain Instruments to produce Speedy, Beau∣tiful and Good Fruit, and are infallibly so, provided the Frost spoils nothing, either while they are in Blossom, or soon after the Fruit is knit; for such Branches seldom fail of producing Blossom-Buds; and besides, cannot possibly serve to any end but yielding of Fruit, unless contrary to the Natural and Common Order of Vegetation, they shou'd happen to have certain overflowings of Sap to thicken them in an extraordinary manner,

and so alter their Property; that is, convert them into Branches for Wood; which hap∣pens sometimes in all manner of Trees, particulaely in such as have been ill Prun'd: I will explain in the Sequel, what Method is fit to be us'd in such Occasions.

The good strong Branches, of which the Principal Use is first to begin, and then continue to give the Trees a proper Figure, which they can receive by no other means, are particu∣larly employ'd in producing yearly on their Extremities other good new Branches, some strong, and others weak, as it appears by the Figure A. And the great Skill of the Gard∣ner consists in making a good use of both.

And to that end, as it is material to preserve the good weak ones for Fruit, which is the peculiar End of Fruit-Gardens, it is likewise very necessary to work prudently to man∣nage our Operations upon the good strong ones: It is true, that it is requisite to preserve on the Extremities of every Old Branch some of those new strong ones that are grown there, but that commonly extends but to a small Number; for Example, to one only; and sometimes the Mother-Branch being extraordinarily Vigorous, it may extend to two, or three; as I will demonstrate hereafter, in explaining the manner of Pruning, for which we must have very good Reasons; for if too many were preserv'd, we shou'd certainly fall into the inconvenience of Confusion, which inconvenience spoils the whole disposition towards Fruit, as well as the beauty of the Figure.

There is chiefly a great deal of Skill requir'd, to know how to take away entirely all the useless Branches, whether it be because they are worn or spent, or because they have no good qualifications; and the same concerning those that are to be preserv'd, to know how to regulate their length proportionably to their Force, and the Vigour of the whole Tree; so that afterwards every one of them may be able to produce on its Extremity just as many good Branches as are necessary either for the Fruit, or for the perfecting the Beauty of the Tree, or for preserving it when it is establish'd: And this is what we call the Common Pruning of Trees.

CHAP. IX.

Of the Explication of the Words of Strong and Strength, of Weak and Weakness.

WHereas in this Treatise of Pruning, I am of Necessity oblig'd, to make use fre∣quently of the Words of Strong and Strength, of Weak and Weakness; which Words bear a double meaning, and therefore might puzzle the Reader; I think it will be proper, before I enter into the particulars of that matter, to give a short Account of the Sence, in which I take and use them; I must omit nothing of what may help me to avoid the ambiguity which those Terms might create in my Maxims. Lest that not be∣ing well understood, being Paradoxes, they might not at first meet with all the approba∣tion I could wish them, and hope to procure them in the sequel.

When ever then I speak here, of strong Branches, and strong Roots; I mean, as I have already hinted, such as are thick; and likewise, speaking of weak Branches, I mean such as are small: Moreover, when I speak of a strong Tree, I mean a vigorous Tree; that is, a Tree that produces a great many fine thick Branches; and in speaking of a weak Tree, I mean a languishing Tree; that is, a Tree that yields but very few shoots, and for the most part all small.

This being agreed on, and conformably to the Sence, in which the words of Strong and Strength, of Weak and Weakness, are commonly taken, when us'd in speaking some∣times of Animals, and sometimes of Timber to Build with, in relation to the burthens they are able to bear.

I say, in speaking of the Pruning of Branches, that those that are strong must be kept short, I mean those that are thick; and that the weak ones must be kept long, that is, those that are small; and in speaking of the Pruning of Roots, I prescribe a clean contra∣ry Method from the Branches; for we must keep them short, that are weak and small, and those that are thick, strong, and better nourish'd, a little longer••; as I explain in the Treatise of the Plantations, in that part where I give directions for preparing Trees to Plant.

I likewise call Apple-Trees, graffed upon Paradice-Stocks, weak Trees; as also early Cherry-Trees, graffed upon common Cherry-Stocks; as I say, that those that are graffed upon free Stocks, that is, upon good Wildlings, are strong and vigorous Trees; these

being really capable' of producing and bearing a great deal, and the others but very little.

It is likewise in that Sense, that after having regulated of what thickness partly the Trees of each kind ought to be, to be proper to be chosen and Planted by a skilful Gard'ner; I say in that Case, observing the difference between the one and the other; that for Example, such a Pear-Tree, or such a Peach-Tree, in which I find a fitting thick∣ness, is strong enough, and so will be fit to be Planted: I say likewise that another Tree of that Kind, being of an excessive thickness, is too strong; and that on the contrary, another of that Kind, in which that necessary thickness is wanting, is too weak: It is likewise in that Sense, that it may truly be said, that the Trees which grow slowly, and never grow extream Tall, are the Weakest; witness the Quince-Tree, the Elder, the Medlar, the * 1.4 Hazzle, or Nut-Tree, the Paradice Apple-Tree, &c.

I maintain two things more in the same Sense.

The first is, That care must be taken that the weak Branch which is full of Buds, be however strong enough to bear the weight of its Fruit, because that otherwise, if it be too weak, it will break under it; and therefore I maintain that no more must be left upon each, than in proportion to the strength it may have to bear it.

The second thing I maintain, relates particularly to the Graffs that are made Cleft-wise, upon which, when a Branch, being small at the time of its Graffing, becomes afterwards much thicker than before, methinks that it is hard forbearing to say that it is grown the stronger by it, there being no likelyhood of maintaining, on the contrary, that the thicker it is, the weaker it is.

From all I have been saying, to explain the signification of those words Strong and Strength, Weak and Weakness, it follows, that they may, according to my sence, be usefully employ'd, and distinctly understood in the Treatise of the Pruning of Trees.

Now, among these Trees, there are some which yearly produce a great quantity of thick Branches, and few small ones: There are some that produce a reasonable number of both; and in fine, there are some which grow but little either from Foot, or Head; That is, that produce but few new Roots under Ground, and even those all small ones, and but few new Branches above ground, and those likewise almost all short and small; which are consequently far from appearing, as they say commonly, Fine, Strong, and Vigorous Trees; but, on the contrary, look, if I may express my self so, Sick, and Lan∣guishing.

This Production of different Branches, is only the Work of Nature, which is perform'd innocently, and without the least dependance on the Reasonings of Philosophy; and tho' this Production has not been the work of the Meditation of Man, yet it has furnish'd him a fair Subject to work upon; so that we pretend to have drawn great Instructions from it, towards the Cultivating and Management of our Fruit-Gardens.

Being then certain, that all the Parts, of which all manner of Trees are Compos'd, do not receive an equal quantity of Sap, since all the Branches are not of an equal thickness, and length; I mean, some being considerably thicker, and harder to break, which conse∣quently may be said to be stronger than others their Neighbours: Being likewise certain, that upon the same Trees, there are certain Branches, which are considerably smaller, and more easie to break, and therefore may be said to be weaker than other Neighbour∣ing ones.

It is moreover certain, as I have heretofore offer'd, and 'tis what I have observ'd (which perhaps few had done before me) I say it is certain, that very seldom Fruit-Buds form themselves upon thick and strong Branches; so that, for Instance, if a Pear-Tree pro∣duce none but such, it will commonly bear no Pears; whereas, on the contrary, the small and weak Branches produce generally a great deal of Fruit; insomuch, that if sometimes in one and the same Tree all one side appears as it were Pining, in not having produc'd any new Branches, or at least but very weak ones: It is observable, that that side grows ordinarily full of Fruit-buds, while the other part of the Tree, which by the abundance of Fine Branches appears very Healthy and Vigorous, produces but very few, and often none at all.

This Observation has put me upon performing two Operations which I have found very successful. The first is, that when a Fruit-Tree remains several years without produ∣cing hardly any thing besides these kind of Branches of an extraordinary thickness and length; and consequently bears but little Fruit: In that case I have found no better and readier way to make it Fruitful, than by the extraordinary Pruning I have mention'd heretofore; that is, by applying my self at the beginning of the Spring to the Source or Spring of that Force and Vigour, which are the Roots, in order to diminish their Action; and to that end I lay open half the Foot of that Tree, and wholly take away one or two,

and sometimes more of the thickest and most active Roots I meet with, and retrench them so well from the Place where they grow, that there does not remain the least part capable of performing the least Function of a Root; by that means I prevent the Luxu∣riance of the Sap for the future, and consequently render the whole Head less Vigorous; whence it follows, that it Shoots less of these thick Branches, and more small ones, and thus it is dispos'd to bear Fruit.

The second Operation is that, when in the Month of May a Branch shoots out of an extraordinary thickness, either in the ordinary Course of an old Planted Tree, or in the first Years of Graffing, and that consequently it will be evident that such a Branch will be at the same time very long, and have no Disposition to bear Fruit; this being grounded upon the Reason of its Strength, or Thickness, which proceeds from too great an abundance of Sap; in such a case, I am of Opinion, that it is easie for those that are willing so to do; to divide, as I may call it, that Torrent of Sap; and whereas instead that its whole Tendency was only to the Production of a thick Branch, which for the most part would he of no Use at all, it is easie to reduce it, and as it were oblige it to make several very good ones, whereof one part will be weak for Fruit, and others suffi∣ciently thick for Wood.

And that is fit to be done in the Month of May: Therefore at that time I cause that young thick Shoot to be Pinch'd, that is broken with the Nail, and leave it no greater length than that of two, three, or four Eyes at most.

Hereafter I will explain the manner, and success of such an Operation, after having ex∣plain'd what relates to Pruning.

But before I enter into the particulars of Pruning; I suppose, that we are to Prune either young Trees, which have never yet felt the Pruning Knife; and, for Example, have not been Planted above a Year or two; or Old Trees, which have already been Prun'd several Years before.

I suppose besides, that these old Trees are in a good condition, as having been govern'd by Persons of Understanding, so that they only want being preserv'd; or else that they are in an ill case, either for having always been neglected; that is, not Prun'd; or else, for having been ill Prun'd; so that it may be necessary to endeavour the correcting of their defects.

I do not really believe, that I may so foresee all the Cases of Pruning, as without for∣getting one, be able to give Rules for every one that may happen; I am far from being so presumptuous, knowing, that it is almost, in this case, as it is in Physick, and in the matter of Law-Suits: Hypocrates and Gallen, with so many Aphorisms for the one; Le Code and Le Digeste, with so many Regulations and Ord'nances for the other, have not been capable of foreseeing and providing against all, nor consequently to decide all, since there daily occur new Cases: All I pretend, is to give you exact Information of the Method I have practis'd for these Thirty Years with an extraordinary application, in which I have been very successful; as well as those who understand it, and who, in imitation of me, do me the Honour to Practise my Maxims.

To explain the particulars of this Method, I will divide what I have to say into three Classis; and First, in favour of the Curious, who begin to make New Plantations, I will speak of Trees newly Planted, upon which I will first give General Rules for the well Pruning of all the Shoots, which every Tree shall have produc'd; beginning with those of the first Year, and shall continue in the same manner from Year to Year, for five succes∣sive Years, in order to shew the effect of the Pruning of every one of these five Years; afterwards I will give other Rules to remedy certain defects, which will happen some∣times, notwithstanding the first cares of a Skilful Gard'ner: With all these precautions, and this Method, I have ground to believe, that a Gard'ner, who will be tollerably industri∣ous, may be sufficiently instructed in this matter to understand it, to take pleasure in it, and lastly, to perfect himself in it, by his own practice, as much as he shall have occasi∣on for.

After having thus labour'd in favour of the Curious, who have made new Plantations, and will mannage them themselves; I will proceed to the other Curious, who all on a sudden find themselves Masters of certain Gardens, wherein the Trees are old; whether those Trees have been for a long time well mannag'd, or ill, either through Ignorance or want of Skill; and I will endeavour to make them apprehend what I would do to them, were I to have the mannagement of them; This will be particularly of use to all kind of Gard'ners, who in all Seasons, casting their Eyes upon any Trees whatever, shall not only be desirous to judge of their good or ill Condition to satisfie others; but likewise, shall em∣ploy themselves in Pruning of them; or at least, to prescribe what should be done to them

[illustration]

P••; ••ol. 2

for the good of the Tree, or the Pleasure and Advantage of the owner: But first, it is necessary, to speak of the Tools that are necessary for Pruning, and the manner of using them.

CHAP. X.

Of the Tools that are necessary for Pruning, and of the manner of using them.

I Should not need to say, that in order to Prune, either Branches or Roots, two good Tools are necessarily requir'd, which are a Pruning Knife and a Saw, because 'tis no Novelty, since every body knows it as well as my self: But whereas, I am not to omit any thing relating to my Subject, I should think my self blame-worthy, if I did not speak of these Instruments.

Besides that, as I always aim at rend'ring the work easie, and that I am a mortal Ene∣my to confusion; I will destroy certain Portative Shops, which are a large and great Case, stuft up with a multitude of pretty large Tools, and consequently massive and heavy, which Gard'ners heretofore only us'd at the time of Pruning, and call'd it a Gard'ner's Budget: Now instead of all this stuff, I only desire these two little Tools, which may at all times be carry'd in the Pocket, without receiving the least trouble from their bigness or weight; so that on all occasions, People may not be without something about them, to take away in their Walks, whatever may be judg'd fit to be remov'd; otherwise it often happens, that certain things remain imperfect, for want of having about one, wherewith to correct it, as soon as it is taken notice of.

I say then, with every body, that the Saw serves here, to take off dry and old Wood, which is consequently very hard, and capable of spoiling the Pruning-Knife, or else to take away that which is ill-plac'd, or so thick, that it cannot easily, and at once be cut off with the Pruning-Knife. I say next, that this being granted, the Pruning-Knife must of necessity serve to cut off, at one cut, young, lively, tender, and well-plac'd Wood, of a moderate thickness; so that the Pruning-Knife must never be us'd upon any thing that would presently blunt its edge, and for which the Saw is more proper than it; nor like∣wise employ the Saw to retrench any Branches, which one good cut of the Pruning-Knife may cleverly perform.

But it is not sufficient to be agreed upon the Necessity and Use of these two Tools, for the different Occasions in which they are employ'd; perhaps it will not be useless be∣sides that, to make the description both of the one and the other. I begin by the Figure of the Pruning-Knives which I use, and which I look upon as the most convenient; for they are made several ways which I do not approve of, some being too hooked, in respect to their length, and others not enough; so that in my Opinion, neither the one nor the other are near so easie to work with, as those which keep a medium between these two Figures; I have often try'd them of all kinds, and have at last fix'd upon these that are figur'd here, which perhaps are of my own Invention; at least I have taken a great deal of pains to bring the Workmen to make them exactly according to the Model which I had given them, they still made them too crooked or too streight, and consequently in∣convenient; so that in this Case, the Figure of the Pruning-Knife is considerable.

However, it is not enough to have the Pruning-Knives well shap'd; besides that, their matter must be of good temper'd Steel, so that the edge may neither turn, or notch easi∣ly; they must be well whetted, often clean'd from the filth that fastens upon them in working, and set as often as the edge is observ'd not to run smoothly in cutting easily, in proportion to the strength apply'd to them; and besides, when there are many Trees to cut, 'tis fit to have many Pruning-Knives, to change them often; for without doubt, with good Tools, more work is done in one Day, and with more Pleasure, than could be done in two or three, having but indifferent ones, and yet worse having bad ones.

Besides this, the Blade of these Pruning-Knives must be of a moderate length, that is, but about two Inches to the part where the bending of the back begins, and afterwards, the whole hooked part to the extremity of the point, must have two Inches more, in∣somuch, that the extent of the outside, must not have above four Inches in all; besides this, the Handle must be more square than round, and a little rugged: Buck's-Horn is very fit for it; this Handle must be of a reasonable bigness, so as to sit the hand, and to hold it firm without turning, or slipping out of it, in putting ones strength to it; the

thickness of two Inches and eight Lines, or at most three Inches, is that which is fit for the use of a Man who actually Prunes all manner of Trees, that is, to cut here and there some small Branches: Such are fit for Gentlemen to have, to cut, as they are walking, such Branches as they observe to be ill-plac'd. This is all I can say of the Conditions of a good Pruning-Knife.

As for the Saw, in my Opinion it does not require so much ado; however its most commendable quality is to be streight: It must be of a very hard Mettal, and well tem∣per'd; old blades of Swords are very fit for it, and the Teeth must be of a good di∣stance, and well open'd, the one turning towards one side, the other on the 'tother, and the back must be very thin, or at least not so thick nor so substantial as the Teeth; other∣wise the Saw will not move easily, because the Teeth will soon be fill'd up, so that it will soon tire him that uses it, and make the Work advance but little.

It is not necessary that the Saws for the common use of Pruning shou'd be broad, half an Inch in breadth will suffice, they must not be very long neither, five or six Inches in length will do; and as for the handle it may be round; since it is to be push'd in a streight Line before one, that so its turning in the hand need not be fear'd, as a Pruning-Knife with a Round Handle wou'd do. It will be thick enough, provided in that part where it is thickest, which is the Extremity, where the point of the Blade meets when it shuts, it has about two Inches, and seven or eight Lines Circumference; and on the other Extre∣mity, somewhat less than two Inches; and thus one shall have folding-Saws, which may be carry'd in the Pocket as easily as the Pruning-Knives, the Blade closing into the Han∣dle, which will be very Convenient, and very Necessary for a Gard'ner.

I do think it a very great matter to have good Tools, but that is not enough, there is some Skill requir'd to use them well, either for the expedition of Business, or to avoid some Accidents. This is a Prentiship which generally costs some blood to those who begin to work, without having had good Directions. There are some necessary Precautions rela∣ting to the manner of placing the whole Body well, and particularly of placing the left hand well, without which, a Learner is in great danger of hurting himself; therefore I think it very proper to Instruct him in it at first.

To that end, I say, first, that the Person must be dispos'd and planted near his Tree, in such a manner as to stand firm, so as to be able with ease to make use of his Instruments with his full Strength and Vigour: In the second place, he must hold his Tools as firm as can be, that they may not turn in his hand: And, in the third place, as to his Pruning-Knife, he must always begin his Pruning, that is, to Cut, on that side which is opposite to the Eye, or the Branch upon which he cuts, which must after that make the extremity of the Branch which is cut: And in fine, whether he cuts to the Right, which is towards home, and is the most common; or whether he cuts with a back hand, as it is often necessa∣ry; and proper to be done, he must still take care, and use the precaution of putting his left hand underneath, and close to the place which is to be cut, there to remain as it were fix'd, and to hold the part he grasps so steady that it may not stir or move in the least; and so consequently resist the force of the Right hand in cutting; otherwise if the left hand should quit its hold, the Pruning-Knife would no doubt meet with it, and wound it dangerously.

Besides this, that Right hand must be us'd, not only to hold the Pruning-Knife so, that the edge may be mov'd Flat-wise, and Horizontally, but also use it to stop short after the effort it has exerted in cutting, that you may cut nothing but the Branch or Root that you intend to Cut, without touching any of the Neighbouring ones, which must so care∣fully be preserv'd, as neither to be any wise Cut, or Wounded; and therefore before you come to present the Pruning-Knife, you must rightly observe the Situation of the Neigh∣bouring Branches, and partly consider, not only how the hand must go in Cutting, for that hand in moving must give a certain turn to the Pruning-Knife, that the Point may meet with nothing; but you must likewise feel how far the force you must use to carry off at once the part you design to remove may carry you, lest the Pruning-Knife in its way might harm some of the Neighbouring Branches; and this we call Cutting Dry, as it must be done to Prune well, that is to Cut cleverly; so that if it be a Branch, the Cut may be in some manner round, and flat; at least it must in no wise be long, as Unskilful People do it; and if it happen to be made long-wise, you must make use of your Pruning-Knife again, to take away that Deformity; noting however, that it must be done in a different manner from Roots, which must be cut absolutely like the Foot of a Hind, that is somewhat long-wise: We have given a Reason for it in the Chapter of Plantations.

When by a frequent Exercise, or habit of Pruning, a Man is become handy, and bold in Cutting, he may very well, especially in the Case of certain green Branches, thick enough to be taken away, I say he may very well place his left hand above the right, to

grasp, and gently bend such Branches in drawing them towards him; and by that means, such Branches will really prove more easie to be Cut; in so much that a Man will often be surpriz'd to find so great a Branch so easily cut off at one stroak; but then this Left Hand must be at such a distance from the Right, that the great strength he must use to cut at once the Branch in question, may not carry it as far as that Left Hand; and it is very ne∣cessary to observe, that as in Cutting, the Right hand moves towards the Left, so that likewise should move away from it, in carrying off, as I may call it, the Booty which the Right Hand has newly prepar'd for it; or otherwise, as we have already said, that Left Hand wou'd run a great hazard of receiving a dangerous wound, which happens but too often.

Let us say moreover, that in order to Cut well, every Branch must be within reach of him that Cuts it; in so much that he may be able to Cut it without straining himself; that is, that such a Branch shou'd reach up to the stomach of the Gard'ner: If it be much lower, he must be forc'd to stoop so as to put one knee to the ground, if it be needful; and if that Branch be too high, he must get upon something, either a Ladder, or Steps, to the end that he may Cut it with ease, and without straining himself; for he would run a great bazard of hurting himself, or of splitting the Branch in cutting it downwards: It is not so dangerous to cut upwards; provided, as I have said, the Left Hand be below the Right.

I may say by the by, that Vine-Leaves are a Natural Balm to stop the Blood of the Wounds a Man receives in Pruning, they take away the Pain, and close up the Wound in a very little time. The tenderest Leaves are commonly the best, and for want of green Leaves, the old ones may serve: I have formerly Experienc'd that Remedy, and often upon my self; and have always found so much benefit by it, that I willingly advise our New Virtuoso's to use it upon occasion.

As for the Saw, those that are to use it, must, contrary to what is done with the Pru∣ning-Knife, as much as possibly can be, place the Left Hand above the Right, and lean hard upon the part which is to be Saw'd, to hinder it from stirring; otherwise the Saw would not play well. That done, they must hold the handle of the Saw in such a man∣ner that the But-end may not reach above the middle of the Palm of the Hand, and just underneath the Thumb, where it must in some manner be stay'd, or supported, to move the Saw the better; in order to which, it is likewise proper that the Fore-Finger should be stretch'd along the Handle, as far as the edge of the Blade, to conduct the motion of the Saw the streighter; and to that end, is requir'd, in the first place, a considerable appli∣cation of the Mind to what is to be Saw'd, without the least distraction by any thing; and at the same time, the Saw must be manag'd with an extream quickness and Vigour; for working slowly, or thinking upon any thing else, the Work wou'd not succeed well, and the Saw would often bend, or break: You must not Saw quite through, but stop just close to the last Bark, otherwise you might be in danger of tearing the Bark from off the remaining Branch, and consequently peel it dangerously; so that the Pruning-Knife must always end the work of the Saw, both to cut off clean what has not been made an end of Sawing, and to smooth the part that has been Saw'd; that is, to cut off all that remains rough from the Action of Sawing, since otherwise it would hardly recover, the Saw ha∣ving in some manner burnt the part so Saw'd.

There are likewise certain Occasions, in which the Left Hand, by gently bending the Branch to be Saw'd, makes the Saw play the better; and sooner, and more neatly finishes the Work: But you must be very exact in the strength you use, or apply in bending, lest you should make a dangerous Slit in the part that is to remain. This is what I had to say, as to our Tools; let us now proceed to the application of the use that is to be made of them.

CHAP. XI.

Of the manner of Pruning Trees, in the first year of their being Planted.

A Fruit-Tree of what kind soever, Pear-Tree, Apple-Tree, Plumb-Tree, Peach-Tree, &c. which seem'd to promise all the good and necessary Qualifications requir'd in order to be Planted, and has actually been Planted with all the Skill and Consideration which we have heretofore explain'd in the Chapter of Plantations: This Fruit-Tree, I say, from the Month of March, until the Months of September and October following, will of necessity perform one of these four Things; either it will not Shoot at all, or little, or it will Shoot

reasonably; that is, at least One Fine Branch, or else it will Shoot much, that is, Two or Three Fine Branches, and perhaps more, as it appears by the Figures. We must exactly Explain what is to be done, in these Four Particulars.

CHAP. XII.

Of the first Pruning of a Tree that has not Sprouted at all the first Year.

AS to the first Case, in which we suppose the Tree to have shot forth nothing the first Year, perhaps it may be dead, and appears visibly so; and perhaps it is really dead, tho' it does not seem to be so, by reason of a little Green which the Pruning-Knife discovers under the Bark; for without doubt it may seem alive at the Head, and yet be dead at the Root, and that is likewise call'd being quite dead, without however appearing so outwardly; or else it may seem dead, either because it has produc'd nothing, or perhaps because part of the Stem is really dead, tho' it be no wise dead in the Principal Place, which is the Place of the Principle of Life, and of the thick Roots, on which de∣pends the whole Spring of Vegetation

When the Tree is dead on all sides, it is easily known by the dryness, or blackness either of the whole Stem, or a main part of it; especially if that blackness appears about the Graff; in which Case it is neither difficult of giving, nor of receiving good Advice; that is, such a Tree must be remov'd as soon as you are convinc'd of its being Dead, but ever with an intention of putting another in the room of it, at the first moderate Shower of Rain: Provided the death of such a Tree be perceiv'd in the Month of May, or at the beginning of June, 'till which time you may plant others in the room of it; but it is not so safe to be done during the rest of the Summer.

This Re-implacement sufficiently shews, that I design it should be done by means of those Trees which are brought up in Baskets; if, as I have so much exhorted People to do, the Curious have taken care to raise some in that manner, not only in the first year of their Planting, but likewise all the following years; to the end that this first year, and even at all times they may have the satisfaction of seeing their Garden perfectly Stock'd: Without doubt such Basket Trees in the Months of July and August would have shot their Roots beyond the Baskets, in case they had taken so well, as to produce very fine Shoots, which are the only ones you must re-implace, but it is very dangerous to take them out, to Transport or Plant them in the Summer, when their Roots are thus shot out; for they either break in removing, or as their Extremities are White, they easily blacken in a hot Air, and consequently perish; and cause the Tree to pine long, and even often kills it.

But if you do not use Baskets in the Months of May and June, you must stay until the return of the next Season of Planting, which is from November, to the middle of March, and then they may be us'd; or having none, you must Re-plant a new Tree well qua∣lify'd, in the Room of that which is dead.

In the mean time we must carefully examine how we happen'd to be deceiv'd in that Tree, in which we had observ'd all the appearances of a better fortune; since without that it should not have been Planted, to the end that if it be possible to discover or avoid the Inconveniencies that have kill'd it, we may endeavour to remedy it for the future.

For Example, it may be the great Cold during the Winter, which happens but seldom, * 1.5 or else the great Heat during the Summer, which may happen: Then since great Colds, and great Heats are capable of spoiling and ruining the Roots of a Tree, the best way to prevent it is, to cover the Foot of that which is newly Planted with something, for it is an ill Expedient to Plant it deeper than I have said in the Treatise of Plan∣tations, pretending thereby to preserve the Roots from the Cold or Heat: It is better then to Plant it according to our Rules, and take care in the Summer to cover the Foot with Fearn, or dry Dung, or else new drawn Weeds, &c.

If the Tree be dead only for want of watering, the new one must be water'd; if for * 1.6 want of good Mould, you must put some fresh there; if it proceed from having been too often and maliciously shaken or loosen'd at the time of the first Sprouting, it must be pre∣vented, by putting some fence before it, or not suffering the unlucky Wags that have done it, to come near it.

If it proceeds from having been Planted too low, or in too moist a Ground, the * 1.7 other must be Planted a little higher, or else the Ground rais'd to enable it to drain it self.

If it preceeds from having been under the shade of other Trees, or in the Neighbour-hood of some Wood or Pallisades, which by an Infinity of Roots exhaust all the Ground about them; you must resolve to remove either those Trees that make the Shade, or those that waste the Ground so much; and before you Re-plant any thing in their room, you must remove all the Earth that is worn out, to put better in the room of it, without ima∣gining to better it with Dung, or else resolve to Plant no more Fruit-Trees in that un∣happy Place.

If, in fine, some Moles have rais'd and shaken them, you must endeavour to catch them; if the Worms have gnaw'd them, they must be look'd for, and destroy'd; tho' as we have already said elsewhere, it be of all the Evils that may afflict Plantations the great∣est, most dangerous, and most incurable: All the Comfort that can be had in this is, That it is a kind of Torrent that must of necessity have its Course, but passes, and does not return often; and this is what I have to say as to a Tree which is, and actually ap∣pears dead the first year of its being Planted.

If the Tree remain green in the whole Stem, or at least in a great part of it, without having produc'd any thing, and that perhaps it be only a kind of Lethargy, which has in some measure benum'd the Vegetative Faculty, as it happens to some Orange-Trees newly Planted, which remain sometimes two, three, or four years without coming to any thing, and yet at last perform Wonders. 'Tis strange and difficult to apprehend, that the Prin∣ciple of Life of those kind of Trees, which in effect are so easie to take, and yet are so hard to dye, shou'd not withstanding be so difficult to be mov'd to begin some Roots: But this is not the Point in question here; our Fruit-Trees are not so long without shewing the certainty of their Life or Death.

In case, I say, this Fruit-Tree has preserv'd its greenness all the Summer, without producing any Shoots; it may perhaps give some hope of satisfaction for the time to come, but indeed that hope is very slight; and if it may be done conveniently, the surest way is to replant as soon as can be another new one, that appears better, or at least equal∣ly good in the room of it; but if no other can be had, I am still of Opinion that it will be proper in the Month of November to search round about that suspicious Foot, to see whether there appears any good beginning of thick Roots, or none at all.

In the First Case, that is, if any good Signs be discover'd, consisting in the beginning or growing of some thick Roots, which is very extraordinary; for as soon as any new Roots grow in Summer, new Shoots appear at the same time: If then, I say, any begin∣ning of thick Roots be discover'd, which perhaps only began to form themselves since the end of Summer, you must rest there, without doing any thing more, and only cover the Place well again where you have open'd the Ground; and besides, the following Summer take some extraordinary Carefrom time to time to Water it, if the Ground and the Sea∣son seem to requireit: Such a Tree may very well make up the time it has lost, and become fine the following years.

In the Second Case, that is when the Tree has perform'd nothing by its Root, it must be wholly taken out of the Ground, and Prun'd again, that is, according to the Term of a Gard'ner, all its Roots must be refresh'd, doing the same to the Head, of which the Ex∣tremity may perhaps be dead; and in such a Case it must be refresh'd as far as the quick, and then the Tree may be re-planted at that very time, and in the same place, if it be judg'd worth it, having preserv'd its Roots sound and entire, or you must fling it quite a∣way, if the principal Roots be defective, either in being dry, or black, or being actually rotten, or gnaw'd, as it happens sometimes, for in that Case no good can be expected from them: The Case is different, when there are only some small Roots tainted, tho' it be not a good Sign: but however, in that Case it wou'd be sufficient to Cut them again to the quick, and Re-plant the Tree in the same place where it has given Cause to believe its Destiny doubtful: I have pretty often Re-planted such Trees in Nurseries, where they have thriven so well, that some years after I have successfully given them some of the Chief Places of the Garden, and yet I had Planted very good new Trees in the Places where those could not thrive: It is very difficult to have perfect Plantations without all those necessary Considerations.

The Coolness of a moist Ground is sometimes sufficient to preserve for a year, or more, uncertain signs of Life, both in the Roots and Stem of a Tree, as well as it preserves it in Cut Branches, and yet without any certainty of their performing afterwards any happy Ope∣ration; that is, to Operate in the same manner as well qualify'd Trees use to do; therefore

it is fit to be very nice upon those kind of appearances of Life, by which so many People suffer themselves to be amuz'd and deceiv'd for so many Years. This is, what I had to say upon those appearances of Life, whether Good and Certain, or Ill and Doubtful.

CHAP. XIII.

Of the first Pruning of a Tree that has sprouted weakly.

I pass now to the second Article of a Tree newly Planted, which is to sprout but little, * 1.8 especially if the Shoot be weak, small, and yellowish, and sometimes accompany'd with some Fruit-Buds.

Upon which I declare, that I have but little more value for that Tree, than for the Preceeding, which we have just examin'd, and found it either quite Dead, as well in the Roots, as in the Stem, or only dead as to the Roots, tho' it appear'd green at the Bark; or else have found it to have yet some small signs of Life in the Roots, as well as in the Stem; both these, and the others, having still preserv'd some signs of Life; that is, some green, and a little Sap. Therefore when I am furnish'd with good Trees, I never fail reject∣ing this, altho' it has sprouted a little, as well as the preceeding which has not sprouted at all: But when I find my self in want, or unprovided, I am contented with cutting these little Shoots close to the Stem, shortning that above by the half; and besides, I never fail to search the Foot; and if I find that the Roots have Shot nothing, as it happens sometime, I pluck up the Tree quite, and refresh the Roots, to see if they are all sound; which being so, I plant them again, or else some of the Principals being spoil'd, I fling it away.

If in order to Replant such a Tree, I fear the Earth be not good enough, I put better in the room of it, this is the only good expedient to be us'd; the help of Dung being too uncertain and deceitful to rely upon it: In fine, I do the same thing to this Tree, as I do ei∣ther to that, which did nothing, but remain'd Green both at the Head and Roots, which we Prun'd anew every where, and afterwards Replanted, either in the Garden, or in the Nur∣sery; or else like the other, whose Head is really in a pretty good Condition, that is Green, but yet has its principal Roots entirely spoil'd, which, upon that account, we have rejected as dead therefore I ev'n look for a new Tree, to put in the room of that, which, as it were, only seem'd to Sprout, such little Shoots being properly but false marks of its having taken new Root, they being only produc'd by the effect of Rarefaction, and with∣out the help of the Roots, as I explain elsewhere.

That pitiful Fruit-Bud, which appears upon the languishing Head of that Tree newly Planted, far from producing in me the effect it operates upon so many Philosophers; that is, from raising any Joy in me, or giving me the least Consideration, either for the Father that has brought it to light, or for the Action by which it is produc'd, creates in me on the contrary, a real scorn for both; which confirming me in the Maxims I have ad∣vanc'd, to prove that Fruits are only marks of weakness, puts me upon the resolution of forsaking that Tree, and to fling it away like a piece of dead or useless Wood: This I do not only to low Trees, that are to make Dwarfs, or part of the Wall-Trees, but like∣wise to Standards, both the one and the other being a-like, in respect to their taking new Root.

I will say here by the by, that this despicable Bud, which I think I may call a Bud of Poverty, has rais'd a War between some Philosophers and I, because I will not grant them, that the Production of it is a sign of Vigour in the Tree, as commonly the Generation of Animals, is a mark of it in the Fathers.

I explain this matter more at large in my Reflections, not having thought it proper to proceed any further here upon the Reasonings I have had cause to make upon it, confor∣mably to a thousand irreproachable Experiences.

[illustration]

The Different Situations of the first Branches which a tree newly Planted somtimes makes.

CHAP. XIV.

Of the first Pruning of a Tree, that has at least produc'd one fine Branch.

WE must now proceed to the Third Article, which relates to our low Trees, newly Planted, either for a Dwarf, or Wall-Tree, and declare what we are to do if they Sprout reasonably; that is, at least one Beautiful, and sufficiently thick Branch, which is commonly attended with some weak ones.

In that case, we are to make Three particular Considerations, viz. Whether that fine Branch proceeds from the extremity of the Stem, the middle, or the lower part.

If altogether from the extremity, out of the fear of falling into the inconvenience I dread, which is a defect for a Dwarf, that is, its growing too high in the Stem, in∣to which inconvenience I should undoubtedly fall; if I perform'd my Pruning upon that new Shoot, I rather resolve to shorten the Stem of that young Tree about an Inch or two, and so put it back to the A. B. C. Being certain, that round the extremity where I shall lower it, it will produce fine new Branches, all well plac'd, and in a sufficient Number; and this is grounded upon that fine Shoot it has produc'd, which convinces me fully, that it has shot forth good Roots.

Thus in putting back perhaps the Pleasure of a Year, because I run the hazard of having my Fruit somewhat later; I avoid the dissatisfaction of having a Tree rise too high, as it would do, if I permitted it wholly to Shoot out of that Branch, which would offend me perpetually, whereas in taking it a little lower, I put it in a way of appearing with all the advantage that can be desir'd in a well order'd Tree; and consequently I put it in a condition of rewarding me yet better, as well by a fine Figure, as by the pleasure of a∣bundance of Fruit.

But if the fine Branch shoot out of the middle of the Stem, you must without hesita∣tion cut down the Stem to that Branch, and even shorten that Branch within the com∣pass of four or five Eyes at most, therein to place the whole foundation, and all the hope of a Beautiful figure in your Tree; it being certain, that at the place where you have shorten'd it, it will produce in the second Year at least two fine Branches, opposite to each other: This is sufficient to make a fine Tree, for those who know how to order it well; but if that shorten'd Branch shoots forth three or four, as it happens pretty often, the success will still be the more favourable, easie, and agreeable.

I suppose still, that the Gard'ners who are any thing careful, will have taken care to order that only Branch we speak of, in such a manner, that it may be very upright, in order to form a streight Tree upon its Center, as it is necessary it should be.

If they have been wanting as to that Precaution, they must have recourse to the grand Remedy, which is, to shorten that Branch within the compass of two or three Eyes, which rough Treatment had not been necessary, had it been well rear'd up from the beginning.

In Pruning that Branch, which is come here by its self, one may still preserve, not the very small Branches which I call Sappless, and must be utterly exterminated from our new planted Tree; but only some of those that are either short, or passably thick, or longish, and likewise passably thick, in whatever place either of them may be; provided they have pretty good Eyes, and are well plac'd, we may securely expect to have soon Fruit upon them, without fearing it might prejudice the vigour of our Tree, especially in stone Fruit, and even in Kernel Fruit, taking care however to shorten those Branches a little, which are really too long, without medling with the others that are short and pas∣sably thick.

The Reason why I do not hinder the preserving of some of those weak Branches, is, that being very certain, as I have so often repeated, that it is the small quantity of Sap which produces the Fruit, it follows from thence, that the little Sap that goes towards the making of it, cannot considerably prejudice our new Tree, and yet it will afford us a great deal of Pleasure in giving us Fruit betimes.

It is not that I think it a great fault, the first Year, unmercifully to take away all those hopes of the First Fruits: The Curious may do in this as they think fit, but for my part, I preserve them.

If our only Branch shoots out of the lower part of the Stem, we have Reason to rejoice at it, it is very well plac'd, provided the Gard'ner has taken care of it betimes, to keep

it upright, in case it were not so, as we have said of the Preceeding: We may with assu∣rance Prune it the heighth we desire it at, to begin a Fine Tree, whether it be a Dwarf, or Wall-Tree; but if it prove not streight, or without a probability of being streightned by some strong Ligature, it must be us'd like the other, that is, it must be shorten'd quite low to make it produce another that may be streight, otherwise the Tree would always be a-wry, and consequently of an ill Figure, still remembring that the Stem must be shorten'd close to the single Branch it has produc'd, and we have Prun'd.

I will say here, by the by, that when we Plant a Tree, we may according to appearances, but not demonstratively and infallibly assure that it will take Root: Yet less, in case it do's, can we assign in what part it will produce its first Shoot: But as for the Fine Branches produc'd by a Tree that has taken Root, which we have afterwards Prun'd, we may with some certainty affirm, that they will produce New ones on the Ex∣tremities on them which we have shorten'd, and partly guess at the quantity; so that this may be rely'd upon; and consequently if our Tree has only produc'd the single Branch we speak of, we may with certainty expect that being Prun'd somewhat short, it will at least shoot two fine ones, capable of performing in all respects what we have above establish'd for the beginning of the Beautiful Figure of a Tree.

I fancy then, that as to this Branch shot from the lower part of our Stem, we may partly allow it the same length we had allow'd that Stem in Planting the Tree, that is, about seven or eight Inches long, what ever place we have Planted it in, whether in Cold, or Moist Ground, or Hot, and Dry.

CHAP. XV.

Of the first Pruning of a Tree that has produc'd more than one Fine Branch.

AS to the Fourth Case, in which our new Planted Tree has produc'd two Fine Branch∣es, or three, or four, or more, with some weak ones among them.

We are to make other great Considerations upon them, which will engage us into different Chapters, Viz. In the first place, to know whether that Plurality of Branches be produc'd to ones liking; That is, whether they grow round about some part of the Stem, whether at the top, in the middle, or in the lower part; so that they may grow like a Branch-Candlestick, for a Dwarf, or like a Hand spread open for a Wall-Tree.

To know, in the second place, whether all those Branches are grown on one side, and all over one another.

Or whether in Degrees at a great distance from each other, tho' round about the Stem, or if sometimes they are all grown from one and the same Eye, and likewise whether it be on the top, middle, or lower part of the Stem.

Lastly, to know whether all those Branches of themselves are dispos'd to open and spread, or all of them to keep close together in a confus'd manner.

These are almost all the different ways in which the first short Shoots of every Tree newly Planted form themselves, when it is so happy as to take Root again, as it appears by the Figures hereunto annex'd.

I repeat again, that I do not Consider here, as any thing Considerable, the little small Branches, altho' they should be good to produce Fruit the very next year, which is often true in Stone Fruit, but seldom in Kernel Fruit: Woe to that Tree, what ever it be, which produces many of these, or no others; however, I will say what is fit to be done to them, after having ended the most material part of my Work.

They are only the great Branches I value in this Case, desiring to have a fine and good Tree; these, in respect to this, have been the first Object of my Wishes, and the only ones that can serve for the first foundation of my Tree, that is, in case they be Natu∣rally well plac'd, and I can give them a Pruning proper for my Intention, and for the Beauty of the Tree I am to manage.

For as the first Branches, tho' happy in their Original, may very well be ill order'd, and consequently give an ill beginning to a Tree, being handled by an Unskilful Hand; so likewise tho' those firrst Branches, at their first Sprouting, might happen to be found in a defective Situation, may very well with a little time, and good discipline be, as I have said, so Skilfully turn'd, that the defect of their Birth may not hinder them from being Mothers to a Well-shap'd, and Sightly Tree.

[illustration]

The different situations of the first Branches sometimes made by a Tree new planted Dwarfs

The first Caution I am to give here, is, that commonly all the thick Branches which grow the first year upon new Trees, are those we call Branches of false Wood, their Eyes discover it; and therefore must be Treated accordingly by Pruning, and even the weak and slender ones are commonly in that respect of the same Form with the thick ones, un∣less they did remain very short.

The second Advertisement, is, that the first Pruning I perform upon the thick Branches of New Dwarfs, differs but little from that I use the first year upon New Wall-Trees: It is true, that in these I easily constrain the most obstinate Branches, that is the worst grown, to put themselves into the Posture I desire, to attain the Beauty requir'd in a Wali-Tree; it serves likewise to afford me more Fruit, and finer; it is likewise true, that Dwarfs are, if that Expression may be us'd, a kind of half Volunteers, which indeed do part of what they have a mind to themselves; but yet commonly suffer themselves at the same time, to be conducted by my Industry, as well for the satisfaction of my Eyes, as for the delight of my Pallate: Only the Fruit-Branches can not be left so long upon Dwarfs, as upon Wall-Trees, because in those we have the Convenience of Tacking and Propping, which we have not in others.

CHAP. XVI.

Of the First Pruning of a Tree that has produc'd two Fine Branches, and both well Plac'd.

AS for what relates then to this Fourth Case, in which a Tree newly Planted has hap∣pily and vigorously produc'd more than one Fine Branch, with some weak ones a∣mong them: If, for instance, it has on the top of the Stem two almost equally strong, and well plac'd, that is one on one side, and another on the other, nothing can hardly be desir'd better, it is a very fair beginning to make a Fine Tree: The only thing in que∣stion is, to shorten them all equally within the compass of five or six Inches in length: But above all, you must take care that the two last Eyes of the Extremity of each of these Branches so shorten'd, look on the Right, and on the Left, upon the two bare sides, to the end, that each of them producing at least two new ones, these four may be so well plac'd, that they may be all preserv'd; and in order to that, if it be a Dwarf, they must all contribute to form the thin Round which we desire; and if it be a Wall-Tree, to form the flat and full Round, which we likewise design.

It would be ill Pruning, if those two last Eyes look'd, for Example, either on the inside of the Dwarf to begin to fill it, or the outside to begin to open too much; it being first re∣quir'd well to establish the first Beauty of the Figure of that Tree, which is to open in a Round equally garnish'd: For the same Reason, in relation to the Wall-Tree, the Pruning would not be sufficiently well perform'd, unless it were order'd so, that the two Eyes that are to be found on the Extremities of the two Branches that are to be shorten'd, should cast upon opposite sides the New Branches they are able to produce: for it is neces∣sary that those very Branches should have of themselves, and without the least violence a Natural disposition to place themselves well upon those parts of the Wall that we would cover, to the end that they may all be preserv'd; and so the first Vigorous Branches of that Wall-Tree have perform'd their duty, as well as the first Vigorous ones of the first Dwarf will have done theirs: However, it will still be fitting to have such necessary re∣gards both towards the one and the other, as may tend first, and chiefly, to a Roundness, which must be continu'd to that end, until the Round be almost perfect, and then we must begin to have two other Prospects to dwell upon; of which, the one is, to endeavour by all possible means to give a reasonable opening to that Tree, if it be a Dwarf, having al∣ready attain'd its roundness; and to fill it equally throughout its whole extent, if it be a Wall-Tree, likewise having its roundness; The other Prospect is, to preserve in both that Round which is already form'd, and must yearly grow in Circumference, without ever, as much as in us lies, suffering it to lose any thing of the Beauty of its Figure.

A particular Care must be taken, that if one of those two Branches has any advantage in thickness over the other, so that likely the one may well produce two other thick ones, while his Neighbour can yield but one; in such a Case, I say, care must be taken, that as well the two of the thickest, as the single one of that which is not so thick, may come forth so happily, that all three together may be preserv'd as fit and necessary for the Com∣posing of the Beautiful Figure in question: Otherwise, if there should be a necessity of

removing some, because ill-favouredly grown, it would prove a vexatious Loss, both in respect to the Tree, and Gard'ner. It is necessary to say here, that if, in these two kind of Trees in debate, a Fruit-Branch shou'd chance to be joyn'd to the two Wood-Branches, it may be preserv'd without any Consequence.

CHAP. XVII.

Of the first Pruning of a Tree that has only produc'd two Branches, both beautiful and thick, yet both ill-plac'd.

IF one of those first fine Branches the Tree has produc'd, be considerably lower than the other, or perhaps both on the same side; or may be the one on one side on the top of the Extremity, and the other quite at the bottom of the opposite side; in that Case, I say, you must fiercely and unmercifully resolve to preserve but one, and chuse the fittest to be∣gin a fine Figure; and consequently, you must cut off the other so close, that, in all pro∣bility, it may never be able to produce any thick ones in the same place; it being most certain, that if both were preserv'd, it cou'd never form a Tree of an agreeable Figure, the sight of which wou'd continually vex you, for not having order'd it well from its Infancy. The Ignorant perhaps may imagine, that this wou'd occasion the loss of a Year; but I can assure them of the contrary, if they will confide in me. In this Case then you must take down the Tree to the lowest branch, if you design to preserve that, which, indeed, is the most proper for our Design, and an infallible Means not to fear any other Branch ill-plac'd on that side: Or, if you must take off the lowest, as not being fit to contribute to the Beauty of the Tree, it must be cut within the thickness of a Crown-piece; for there seldom arises a necessity of cutting a thick new Branch, being ill-plac'd so close, that no∣thing at all may grow from it. I explain this sort of Pruning, together with that which is to be perform'd sloping, more at large in the 21. Chapter.

That Pruning within the thickness of a Crown-piece, will either produce nothing, or only weak Branches, which, far from spoiling any thing, will be fit to be preserv'd for Fruit. This way of Pruning supposes the Branch to be thick and vigorous; for had it been a moderate one, it must have been preserv'd entire, as a Fruit-Branch; if very thin, it must have been cut so close to the Stem, that no passage had remain'd for any thing new; and that particularly, it being very ill-plac'd, or the Tree having but a moderate Vigour.

This Case of a single Branch, which has been preserv'd, and must be prun'd, reduces it self to another heretofore explain'd, where our Tree at first produc'd but one fine Branch; and consequently, in order to the Pruning of this, you must follow the Method prescrib'd for the other, which is useless to repeat here.

It happens sometimes, that from one and the same Eye of a Tree newly planted, two fair Branches may proceed, without any others from any other part. In such a Case, they may both be preserv'd very well, whatever part of the Stem they are in; that is, if they are likely to serve to form a beautiful Figure, as it is possible, if the Vigour of the Foot, or the Care of the Gardner, have made them shoot streight upwards: But if either of them cannot serve towards that Figure, it will be necessary to take it away, and be con∣tented with that, of which a good use may be made; and that must be order'd according to the foregoing Method upon that Subject.

CHAP. XVIII.

Of the first Pruning of a Tree that has produc'd three or four fine Branches, well, or ill-plac'd.

IF our Tree has produc'd three or four fine, well-plac'd Branches, or else three or four ill-plac'd ones, and that all on the Extremity, or a little beneath it.

In the first of these Cases, we suppose that the three or four Branches are grown on the Extremity of the Stem, and in a proper place to form at first a fine Tree: In that Case, I say, they must, for the first time, be prun'd with all the same Regards we have explain'd

[illustration]

One and the same Tree differently Prund according to the different Branches it has Shot four years one after another

for the Pruning of the two first which were by themselves, and likewise well plac'd. In case these three or four be partly all of an equal thickness, they must all be us'd alike: If one or two of them should be somewhat less in thickness, but still fit to be Wood-Branches, or at least half Wood, and consequently capable of contributing to the Beauty of the Fi∣gure; in that Case those shall only be prun'd, with a prospect of getting one only new Branch from them, taking care at the same time to have it on that side which shall be found the most empty; and to that end, they must be shorten'd to an Eye that looks on that side; and Care must be likewise taken, that the two last Eyes of the others, which are stronger, may look towards the two opposite Sides, in order to begin to fill them up the more.

But if those three or four fine Branches shoot out a little below the Extremity, 'tis but shortning the Stem to them, and then do what I have been saying, when the Branches did at first shoot out from the top of the Stem.

In the second Case, where we suppose that the Branches produc'd, are most of them ill plac'd, insomuch that they cannot all conduce towards the forming a fine Tree, and con∣sequently cannot all be preserv'd, you must examine whether, among the three or four, there are not at least two pretty well situated; that is, the one on one side, and the other on the other, and whether the Degrees are not too distant to permit you to frame upon those some Foundation for your Figure; and that being so, those may very well satisfie you, cutting off the others within the thickness of a Crown-piece, as we have heretofore establish'd.

The two that are preserv'd, must be Prun'd with the same Regards heretofore explain'd for the Pruning of the two fine Branches, whether we have them by Choice, or by the good fortune of Vegetation; which having given but two, has given them in such a Situa∣tion as could be desir'd; and Care must be taken, that these two being Prun'd, they may be found afterwards of an equal heighth, though of a different length, to the end that those that may shoot from them may begin our Figure happily; for after that, it will be easie to go on with what has been so well begun.

I do not repeat what is to be done to the good weak Branches, having, in my Opinion, sufficiently observ'd, that they must be carefully preserv'd for Fruit, only shortning them a little on the Extremity, when they appear too weak for their length; not failing to take away the sapless ones, whatever quantity there be of them.

CHAP. XIX.

Of the Pruning of Trees that have produc'd to the Number of five, six, or seven fine Branches.

IN fine, our new Planted Tree may, as it happens sometimes in good Grounds, and par∣ticularly on fine Trees, that have been Planted with all necessary Regards, whether they be graffed upon Tree-Stocks, or upon Quince, I say, it may have produc'd to the number of five, six, or seven fine Branches, and even more. It wou'd be a good Fortune if they shou'd be all so happily plac'd, that they might be all preserv'd, without causing any Con∣fusion, as I have met with it sometimes; by which means it is easie to have soon a fine and good Tree. But as it is a Rarety to find them all well plac'd, I am of opinion, that it will be sufficient to preserve three or four of those, that a skilful Gard'ner shall judge, both by their situation and strength, to be the fittest for the Execution of our Design, and so Prune them, as we have explain'd in such a Case. This being so, he must wholly cut off all the others, if they happen to be higher than those that are preserv'd, especially if they be thick; for if they are weak, that is, fit for Fruit-Branches, he will do well to pre∣serve them until they have perform'd what they are capable of doing.

In case then there be a necessity of taking away some of those highest that are thick, they must either be cut off Stump-wise, to amuse a little Sap in them during two or three Years, or else the Stem must be shorten'd to them that are preserv'd; especially, the Tree not being very vigorous. But if there happen to be some thick ones lower than those which we preserve for ever, it is likewise convenient to preserve those low ones for a while, provided they spoil nothing in the Figure; because that for the space of two or three Years, they employ a little of that Sap, the Abundance of which is prejudi∣cial to us, both to compass Fruit, and to arrive at a beautiful Figure. But if such low Branches can annoy us, then, as we have already said, they must be cut within the

thickness of a Crown-piece, or else take them off close, when we find but a moderate Vi∣gour in the Foot of the Tree.

I still forewarn, that if, among the thick ones, there chance to be a great many weak ones, you must be contented with two or three of those that are best plac'd, and best condi∣tion'd, breaking off the Extremity of the longest a little, and not medling with those that are naturally short, and passably thick; and consequently, you must wholly take away the others, which would only cause a Confusion.

This, in my Opinion, is all that can be done for the first Pruning of Trees; I mean, for the Pruning of the first Branches they shall have produc'd, in the place where they have been newly Planted.

CHAP. XX.

Of the Second Pruning, which is to be perform'd the Third Year on a New Planted Tree.

THE first Pruning of those New Planted Trees being perform'd, and that upon the first Shoots they have produc'd the first Year of their being Planted, we now must shew the Success it ought apparently to produce, and what Conduct is to be held the following Year for the second Pruning; I mean, for the Pruning of the Twigs, that shall shoot from the Extremity of those that have been Prun'd the Year before: And to that End, I think it will be proper to follow the same Order I have establish'd for the first; that is, for the Pruning of the first Shoots they had produc'd.

But before I come to that, let us consider what is to be done to the Trees which had not succeeded well the first Year.

If the Fruit-Tree, which, without having produc'd any Branches the first Year, has been preserve'd, in hopes that, having still been green, and consequently alive, it might do better the second; I say, if that Tree does not begin betimes, that is, even in the Month of April, to shoot very vigorously, it is an infallible Sign, that it will never be good for any thing; and therefore, without losing any more Time, it must be thrown away, and one of those that shall have been brought up in Baskets, in order to supply such Accidents, plac'd in the room of it.

And likewise, if the Tree, which having only produc'd small Shoots in the first Year, has been preserv'd, the Stem of it being only shorten'd; if that Tree, I say, does not, at the very Entrance of the Spring, begin to shoot fine new Branches, I am also of Opinion that it shou'd, without any hesitation, be us'd in the same manner with the fore-going, we have now been speaking of: It wou'd be a kind of Miracle, if ever it shou'd come to a Condi∣tion of affording any Satisfaction.

But if, as it happens pretty often in the Case of Pear-Trees, and sometimes, but not so often, in the Case of Stone-Fruit; if, I say, that Tree, thus taken down lower, has shot fine Branches at its new Extremity, as well as that, which, having shot but one at the top of the Stem, has been likewise taken down lower than the place of that Branch; then both the one, and the other will fall in one of the Cases heretofore explain'd for the first Shooting of those new-planted Trees which have happily succeeded; and so we have no∣thing particular to add to the Conduct that is to be observ'd for them.

Let us now proceed to the Tree, which had only produc'd one fine Branch, be it either about the middle of the Stem, or at the bottom; supposing always, as we have said, that even in that first Year Care shall have been taken, in both Cases, to ren∣der both these only Branches streight, if they were not so naturally: For, if that Care has not been taken, the Gard'ner must have been oblig'd, as I have said heretofore, not only to lower the Stem to those Branches, but likewise to shorten them with∣in the compass of two or three Eyes of the place whence they grew; which being grant∣ed, we must in this Case only consider for the first Pruning that which shall be per∣form'd upon the Branches which are to shoot from those two or three Eyes of a Branch so extraordinarily shorten'd: And thus this first Pruning will fall in one of the Cases of the Pruning of the first Branches of a new-planted Tree, without any necessity of saying any thing more upon that Subject.

The Tree, which in the first Year had only produc'd one Wood-Branch, having been Prun'd upon that Branch, never fails, as we have already said, of producing others on the Extremity of that Branch; and, for Example, will, without doubt, have shot upon

it, at least, one thick one, with some weak ones, and perhaps two or three thick ones, which is pretty usual, and may be more. This great Multitude does not happen com∣monly; but yet it happens sometimes.

If unfortunately it had only produc'd one upon it, partly of the same thickness with the Mother, which may happen by some accident befaln to the first Roots, then you must be Positive either in re-cutting the New one very short, leaving it only two Eyes, or in cutting it quite off, which is yet better; in hopes that the other, which we must call the Old one, may Shoot forth something more considerable the following year, as it may happen: For the Tree may chance to have made better Roots the third year, than it had produc'd either the first, or second; and consequently, being grown more Vigorous, it may shoot a greater quantity of Fine Branches.

But yet, to speak the Truth in such Cases, there is no relying upon the Success of such a Tree, which shews so little Vigour in the beginning; and therefore it is my Opi∣nion, and I think it very material, to have recourse to the Magazine of Trees in Bas∣kets, not to languish in vain hopes, at least beyond the second year, otherwise you may chance to languish yet longer, and always to no purpose, as it happens to a great many of the Curious.

And if that single Branch, being well Prun'd, has perform'd its duty so well, as to have produc'd at least two of those fine ones, which we look upon as Wood-Branches, or perhaps three or four, besides some of those that are fit for Fruit.

In all these Cases, nothing can be done besides what has been said for the Trees, which in the first year of their being Planted have produc'd the same quantity of Shoots, that is, some Fruit-Branches may be preserv'd; but among the thick ones, only such as may con∣duce towards the Beauty of the Figure, cutting off all the others without any mercy, either close, or within the thickness of a Crown-piece.

So the second Pruning of such a Tree must be perform'd upon the fine Branches that are shot from that single Branch, and must differ in nothing from the first that is to be perform'd upon the fine Branches, which the first year have been happily produc'd from the Stem of a new Planted Tree.

The Precaution of keeping upright the single Branch grown upon a Wall-Tree would be good, but is not so absolutely necessary as upon a Dwarf-Standard; by rea∣son of the Convenience of turning almost at pleasure the Branches that shall proceed from that, after having Prun'd it: The only thing then, is to take care in their youth of fast∣ning them to the Right and Left, according as may be necessary for laying the founda∣tion of a Beautiful Figure; and in so doing, it is easie to remedy certain defects which can hardly be remedy'd in a low Standard.

CHAP. XXI.

Of the second Pruning of a Tree that has Produc'd two Fine Branches in the First Year of its being Planted.

AS to our Tree, which in the first Year has produc'd two Fine Well-plac'd Branches, we must suppose, and it is generally very certain, that both the one and the other having been Prun'd within the compass of four, five, or six Inches, or thereabouts, with all the Caution heretofore observ'd, both as to their thickness and Original, as well as the situation of the last Eyes that have been left at their Extremities; I say, it must be suppos'd, that both these Branches shall each of them have produc'd at their Extremities, at least two fine strong ones, both well plac'd, besides some small ones that shall be grown either beneath, or above them.

Those two fine Branches, newly grown, fill up the two sides agreeably, which (to advance the perfection of the round Figure) stood in need of that help.

And if one of these two first, or even both had produc'd each of them above two, either according to the order of Nature, or against it; we must without doubt resolve to cut off close those among these new-commers, which, in what Situation soever, are not favourably enough plac'd to conduce to our Design; and therefore if they prove higher than those which we preserve, in such a Case, if the Tree be but moderately Vigorous, you must take it down to these, to strengthen it the more: But if it be very Vigorous, those highest may be cut square, within the thickness of a Crown-Piece, from the place where they issue; and likewise if those unhappy Branches prove lower than those

that are preserv'd, and in a situation inclining on the inside of the Tree, they must like∣wise be taken away, but no otherwise than in the manner I have just express'd, which I call Pruning within the thickness of a Crown Piece, as it appears by the Figure.

This Pruning perform'd within the thickness of a Crown, often serves to give us the fol∣lowing year a small Branch or two, which proceed from the sides of that thickness, and are commonly very good for Fruit; it happens likewise then, that as the Sap finds it self stopt thus at the Overture of the Branch in question, and as it must of necessity move forwards, it not being able to return back, being push'd and press'd by some other that follows it close, to make it go out at the top; I say it happens then, that this first Sap enters sometimes, or the greatest part of it, into the superiour Branch, which is nearest to that thickness, and which, however, had already a Portion suitable to its thickness.

If it cannot enter altogether in it, as it happens pretty often, the remainder of it is divided, and bursts out, as we have said, upon the sides of that small thickness, and furnishes us with some of those good little Branches which vve desire, as it appears by the Figure.

Sometimes vve may also take avvay those vvretched Branches slopingly, that is, cut them in such a manner, that on the inside of the Tree there may not remain the least part, and on the outside enough for some Nevv Branches to shoot out of it, as it appears like∣vvise by the Figure.

This sloping way of Pruning is to be practis'd when the Branches, being neither altogether outward, nor yet wholly inward, they are a little upon the side, on which part however they cannot be preserv'd; but yet are plac'd so, that by that slope one may expect the following year a Branch shooting wholly outwards.

Now such a Branch may chance to be thick, and consequently capable of conducing to the Figure, or weak, and so fit to give Fruit; and in case, as it happens sometimes, nothing proceeds from that slope, the Figure of our Tree will be no wise alter'd by it.

I dare be bold to say, that this Pruning in a sloping manner, which is a New Invention, is an Excellent way of Pruning to be practis'd upon all sorts of Trees that have a little Vi∣gour, whether Old or Young, when some Branches, unhappily plac'd, as we have just explain'd it, give us cause to do it with hopes of success: It is not indeed Infallible, but it succeeds very often, and for certain never spoils any thing: Therefore I advise others to use it as I do; I generally find a great deal of benefit by it, and am very well pleas'd with my self for having invented it.

Perhaps it may not be improper to relate here what made me think upon it; I knew, as every body does, and as we have just observ'd it upon the account of the Pruning, which is perform'd within the thickness of a Crown Piece; I say I knew, that according to the Order of Nature, the Sap newly form'd in the Spring, regularly presented it self at the entrance of all the Channels of the Branches form'd the preceeding year, to Nourish, Thicken, and Lengthen them, &c. And so I knew that it was certainly to return to en∣deavour to perform its function in the Branch I took away, it being ignorant, as I may say, of its being taken away; therefore I concluded from thence, that apparently part of the Sap would make its way at the Place where it found it self dam'd up, provided it found room enough to get out: So that, in leaving such a Place on the outside, a Branch would shoot from it to do me a kindness. Success has confirm'd my Reasoning, and Practice; and so from a Branch that was grown in an ill and troublesom situation, I put my self in a way of drawing a considerable advantage for my Tree.

If it should happen as, sometimes it does, that one of those two first Branches, we speak of in this Chapter, should have produc'd from its Extremity but one thick enough, with some small ones lower, whilst her Neighbour has produc'd the two we expected; or this having really produc'd two, of which, one might be broken, or spoil'd by some Acci∣dent, so that only one remain'd on that side: These are two Cases in which I think it very material to Explain what is to be done.

As to the first, which is the growing but of one Branch instead of two, which in Proba∣bility were to have grown; in that first Case, I say, supposing there may be cause to judge, that the Prun'd Branch has not receiv'd so large a proportion of Sap as her Companion, which will appear in that, for Example, it shall not have thicken'd in proportion to the other, which proceeds from some inward, un-fore-seen, and inevitable defect; in that first Case, I say, this New Branch must be cut a little shorter, and that with a Prospect that apparently it will yield but one, which consequently must be expected on that side where it is most wanted for the Figure; with this Resolve, that, if the following year the Original Branch shews no more Vigour than the fore-going year, neither it, nor its Off∣spring

must hardly be look'd upon, but as Fruit-Branches, which cannot be lasting, and so we must be necessitated to endeavour betimes to establish the foundation of the Beauty of our Tree upon the Branches that may proceed from its Neighbours.

In the second Case, wherein one of the two New Branches which are grown from a Vigorous one, may have been torn off, or broken; in that second Case, I say, whether the remaining Branch prove that which was grown on the Extremity, or that which was grown from the second Eye, we may apparently reckon that the Sap which made the two, and would have nourish'd them both, had they remain'd, will come altogether into the remaining; and that so it must be Prun'd, in hopes that it will at least produce two, which will be well plac'd, according to our wish, if, in the Pruning of it, we observe all that is necessary to be done; but above all, we must always take care not to let one side of the Tree grow higher than the other, for fear of the Deformity which attends that Ine∣quality, which must be avoided as much as is possible: And therefore in Pruning such a Vigorous Branch, which is left alone by some accident befaln to her Sister, we must re∣gulate the length of the new Pruning we perform upon it, to that we make upon the op∣posite Branch, which has not profited proportionably to what it had done the first year; and that in fine, until the whole Figure of such a Teee comes to establish it self entirely upon the Branches, which successively must come from the vigorous side, a Skilful Gard'ner is sufficiently the Master of such an Operation.

If from the last Eye of one of the two first Branches, from which Eye, according to the Order of Nature, a thick one should have proceeded; if such a one, I say, should bring forth a weak Branch, or even if the two last Eyes have produc'd two weak ones, which, as we have said, regularly should have given us two thick ones, and under these weak ones should have grown one or two thick ones, or more, which happens sometimes; in such a Case, this, or these weak ones, must infallibly be look'd upon as Fruit-Branches, their weakness procuring them that Merit in regard to us; and so we shall preserve them very preciously, breaking them as little as can be on their Extremities, in case they ap∣pear too weak for their length, or leaving them untouch'd, if they seem well pro∣portion'd of themselves: And this without doubt is one of the most material Advices I could give.

Woe to those Trees which shall pass through the hands of Gard'ners who will not be able to make use of this Advice, or shall take away those weak Branches' as causing any deformity to the wretched Idea they have form'd to themselves of a Tree, if they have really fram'd any, for the greatest part of them seldom frame any; and cut pell-mell, whatever sort of Branches fall under their Hands: Those Wretches, in the first place, do not observe or mind that Fine Fruit never spoils any thing, what ever place it be in: In the second, that it is a kind of Murther to take away a fine disposition to Fruit when it is already form'd, although an ignorant Man does not know it; and that lastly, the Beauty of the Figure of a Tree only consists, and depends absolutely upon the thick Branches.

In the mean time, it is to be observ'd, that the thick Branches, that are thus grown be∣low those weak ones, which are found on the Extremity; that those thick Branches I say, shall commonly in that place have begun to follow the Order of Nature for the difference of their Thickness, and Length, in the same manner as if they had grown on that Ex∣tremity, where Naturally they ought to be.

In that Case they must be Prun'd just as if they were really grown from that Extre∣mity; that is, one or two of them must be preserv'd, supposing they may contribute to the Figure; which being granted, they must be Prun'd of a reasonable length, according to their Strength, and the Vigour of the whole Tree, still preserving the necessary regard that must be had for the Branches they are to shoot from the last Eyes of their new Extre∣mity; and as for those that might be prejudicial to the Beauty of the Tree; if there are really any such, they must be taken away in the manner here above Explain'd; that is, within the thickness of a Crown Piece, or else slopingly, according to what may be best for the advantage of the Tree.

I may begin to give notice here, that it happens sometimes, and even pretty often, that this Branch which was left long for Fruit, which in the order of Nature should al∣ways remain weak, may, notwithstanding, chance to thicken in an extraordinary man∣ner, and perhaps produce one, or many thick ones on its Extremity, while that those thick ones which had been Prun'd short for Wood, remain almost in the same Condition, and only produce weak ones, the Sap having, as I may say, alter'd its Course, just as it happens sometimes in some Rivers.

In such a Case, we must submit to that alteration, which cannot be prevented, nor hardly alter'd when once form'd; therefore we must begin the very next year after that alteration, to use that Branch like a Wood-Branch, which having alter'd its property, is

become a Wood-Branch, from being a Fruit-Branch; and so likewise alter our Method in respect to that which, from being a Wood-Branch, is become a Branch for Fruit.

There is nothing to be fear'd so much, as to see a Tree grow thin towards the bottom, which part ought to be fullest; which is the reason that I am so very sollicitous, that no Branches for Wood should ever be left long in the Pruning, unless it be perhaps on some here and there, as we have said, to let them take up, for a Year or two, part of that Sap which might prove troublesom to us, and afterwards remove them when the Tree bears Fruit; that is, it must be done sometimes, when they are extraordinary vigorous Trees; but as it is never done without good Grounds, so it ever proves advantageous.

This Way of Pruning thick Branches long, is a Fault most Gard'ners are guilty of, and that for want of knowing, or taking notice, that as the greatest part of our Fruit-Trees are not capable of furnishing at one and the same time a great Extent, that is, to fill at once both the Top and Bottom; and that naturally, contrary to our Intention, and the Beauty we affect, they all incline to grow upwards, and consequently, that Bottom which shou'd be fullest, remains most bare, unless we use a particular Application to oppose in this the Course of Nature, which seeks, it seems, to deceive us: Therefore a great deal of Care must be taken to stop, that is, to prune those thick Branches short enough, it being most certain that they never shoot much in the lower part, from whence they proceed; but only on their Extremity, whatever it be, high or low.

The Defect of Thinness, which is sufficiently minded in Dwarfs, is yet much more ob∣servable in Wall-Trees; where, among unskilful Gard'ners, we seldom see any thing but the top of the Wall well cover'd, and that even Garland-wise, so that commonly all the new Branches exceed the top of it, and there spend the Vigour of the Tree to no purpose; which obliges them to cut those wretched Branches four or five times in a Summer, to prevent the Disorders of the Wind; while the Heart of the Tree is only compos'd of long, blackish, mossy, wrinckled Branches, destitute of those other little ones that shou'd ac∣company them; and even often full of Scars, and consequently, the Wall, which shou'd be cover'd every where, always beginning from the bottom, on the contrary, appears quite bare, and the Tree has none of those Branches it ought to have.

Granting then, that a Branch for Wood must seldom, or never be left long at the first Pruning, unless it be in order to form a Tree, or to fill up some parts of the far∣thest sides, it is yet less allowable the following Years, upon the thick new Branch, which is grown from that which having been left long for Fruit, is afterwards grown thick, by an unexpected and extraordinary abundance of Sap.

This is another dangerous Rock, from which few save themselves: Therefore I am of Opinion, that, instead of performing our Pruning upon a thick and long Branch, shot from one that had been left long for Fruit, we shou'd descend, or come down to that old one, and shorten it, leaving it no more length than it might have been allow'd, had it been at first of the thickness it is grown since.

And if such an old Branch shou'd not prove of an excessive length, it will be sufficient to prune all the new ones that are grown from it so close, that not the least part of them may remain, whence any thing new might proceed.

In these two Cases it is most certain, that such an old Branch, so order'd, will not fail, at the very following Spring, to produce others on its Extremity; some for Fruit, and others for Wood; among which, those must be chosen that are fittest for the Figure, to the end that, according to the Maxims heretofore establish'd, they may be prun'd like thick Branches, and continu'd to be order'd as such, while Nature causes no alteration in them.

CHAP. XXII.

Of the second Pruning of a Tree, that on the first Year had produc'd three fine Branches for Wood.

THE Tree, which had produc'd at first but two fine Branches, being prun'd the first and second time it cou'd be so, we must now proceed to that which had produc'd three proper to make a fine Tree.

In regard to which, I do not think I need add any thing to what I have said of the Pruning of the preceding, unless it be, that, to avoid Confusion, every Branch may be allow'd two Inches more than those we have been speaking of, in order to procure both

Overture and Roundness to the Dwarfs, as well as Fulness and Roundness to the Espaliers; and therefore great regard must be had for the two or three last Eyes or Buds on the Extre∣mities of the prun'd Branches, to the end that those that are to proceed from those Eyes may be happily dispos'd to contribute to the Beauty of the Figure. It is a great happiness, as we have already said, when a new Tree produces three fine Branches the first Year: But it is yet better, when in the second it produces two more on the Extremity of each of those three.

I may inform you here, that if, on a Dwarf, the Prun'd Branch of a fitting length be capable of producing more than one thick new one on the Extremity of it, and yet we have occasion but for one, the last Eye may indeed be inward, but never the second; and therefore the second Eye must either be broken, or torn off, if required by the disposition of the Branches that are to come, as we have said, either within the thickness of a Crown-piece, or sloping, as shall be judg'd most convenient.

CHAP. XXIII.

Of the second Pruning of a Tree which had produc'd the first Year four fine Branches for Wood, or more.

TO Prune for the second time a Tree, which in the first Year had produc'd four fine Branches, and even more, it is certain, that as this Tree has a great deal more Vi∣gour than all the others we have mention'd, so it requires more Application and Skill, not to let it fall into those Inconveniences wherewith it is threaten'd.

I must say here, that in such a Tree, especially in a Dwarf, it is necessary sometimes to preserve some Branches upon it, which at that time are no ways conducing to the Beauty of the Tree, but serve to consume for a time part of the Sa••, which might be prejudicial to the Branches that are to yield Fruit; but none of those that might cause any Confusion. Those Branches which must be look'd upon as Temporary, may be prun'd without Con∣sequence; so they may be left long, since they are to be wholly taken away as soon as the Tree is form'd, and produces a reasonable quantity of Fruit.

As to those that are essential for the Beauty of the Tree, I have begun to prune them all a little longer than those of the preceding Trees; that is, about two or three Eyes at most; as well to avoid Confusion, which is a very perniclous thing, and to be avoided at any rate, as to make an advantage of the Vigour of such a Tree; which, without such a precaution, wou'd not yield Fruit of a long time, because the great abundance of Sap might convert into Branches all the Eyes that shou'd have turn'd into Flower-Buds, had their Nourishment been more moderate.

Such a Tree, at the End of the second Year, appears in a manner quite form'd, by means of all the new Branches that every one of the old ones that have been prun'd shall have produc'd on their Extremities; and, among the new ones, Care must be taken to chuse those that conduce to the Beauty of the Figure, to prune them again, partly of the same length as those had been prun'd for the first Time, from which they proceed; en∣deavouring, above all, to judge whether the Branch that has been prun'd may, at least, produce two, in order to preserve them both, if they prove fit to contribute to our De∣sign: Or in case one must be quite taken away, let it commonly be the highest, to the end, that, as much as possible can be, the lowest may always be preserv'd, as the fittest to form or preserve the Beauty we look for; and by that means, not only the place which is cut shall be (to use the Gard'ners Term) quickly cover'd again, which is much to be de∣sir'd, as an Ornament in a Tree; but besides, it will make no Wound upon the Branches that shall be preserv'd; and consequently, the Tree will thereby be infallibly handsomer and sounder.

But if the Vigour of that Tree be observ'd to continue, as it is very common, and even to augment visibly, in such a Case Confusion is to be fear'd more than ever, either in the Heart of our Dwarf, or in respect to our Wall-Fruit-Tree, whatever Trees they be, of either kind, Pear-Trees, Apple-Trees, Plum-Trees, Peach-Trees, Cherry-Trees, Fig-Trees, &c. Therefore that second Pruning must be perform'd yet a little longer than the first, parti∣cularly if the Tree appears inclinable to close; and that length must be about a large Foot, or a little more, to employ that abundance of Sap, which, we judge, must not be restrain'd, nor contain'd in a small space.

Upon condition, that when, from the second Pruning, other good Branches shall be grown, which shall begin to open the Dwarf reasonably, or to fill sufficiently our Wall-Fruit-Tree, especially the Tree beginning to yield Fruit; upon condition, I say, that then we shall return to our ordinary Pruning of six or seven Inches upon the most vigorous Branches, and four or five upon the moderate ones.

This great Fury seldom fails of diminishing at the End of the first five or six Years, if the Tree has been well govern'd; and then all those little Branches which we have taken care to procure in a great number at the bottom, and have afterwards preserv'd with Care, begin to give us an ample Recompence for all our Cares: And even pretty often, in such Occasions, we come to prune over again here and there some of the old Branches, which the great Vigour of the Tree had oblig'd us to leave of an extraordinary length; and at the same time we aim still at extending, by way of Overture, on the sides, there to employ usefully the Vigour of that Tree, and indispenceably to preserve its agreeable Figure.

It is upon those very vigorous Trees that we must begin to perform some Masterly Strokes: We must, as is done in point of Fountains, make here and there a kind of Cup∣ping, or rather, a kind of Superficial Discharge; that is, for Example, leave upon that Tree, without any use, some Branches cut Stump-wise, and even some thick ones, though of false Wood, in which, for some Years space, that furious Sap, of which we have too much, may lose it self in vain, which otherwise might disorder some of our principal Parts: And even, if upon those sort of Trees any Branches of false Wood be found in a place where they may serve towards the Figure of the Tree, they must be preserv'd, and us'd as such; being certain that, as they will take up the greatest abundance of the Sap, the good Branches, which have produc'd those false ones, will receive less, and conse∣quently will bear Fruit the sooner; these false Branches, in the mean time performing the same Effect, as to the Figure, as good ones cou'd have done.

Such Branches may likewise be left, where-ever the Overture of the Tree shall not be prejudic'd by them; from whence, the Tree bearing Fruit, they may at pleasure be taken away without any prejudice to the Figure; provided always they cause not the least Con∣fusion, that being the greatest harm that can happen to a vigorous Tree.

And whereas, to moderate the great Fury of such a Tree, in respect to our selves, that is, to make it bear Fruit the sooner, two things are particularly required, besides the Overture; which are, first, the length and multitude of good weak Branches, when they are plac'd so as to cause no Confusion; and in the second place, a considerable Plurality of Out-lets upon the thick Branches, through which that abundance of Sap may perform its Effect, since we cou'd not hinder it from doing it in some part of the Tree.

Therefore, when the Figure of my Tree will permit it, if some Branch, prun'd the preceding Year, has produc'd three or four, all pretty thick ones, I often do not retrench them; so that having one or two of the best plac'd, I preserve one or two of the others for the Pruning of the next Year, and leave them reasonably long. Besides this, if I pre∣serve the lowest, I cut the highest Stump-wise; and when I preserve the highest, I leave under them, either on the out-side, or upon the sides, one or two Stumps of the thick Branches, form'd like the Hooks of a Vine, each about two Inches in length, as it appears by the Figure annex'd hereunto; which succeeds very well to me.

There infallibly happens in those Stumps, or Hooks, a Discharge of Sap, which pro∣duces some favourable Branches, either for Fruit when they prove weak, or to become in time fit Branches for the Figure when they are strong.

The best way always is to lower the Tree, in taking away the highest Branches, to preserve the lowest; and not take away the lowest, to preserve the highest; to the end, that if the Tree cannot fill both at top and bottom, it may rather be dispos'd to remain low, and well fill'd, than to rise high, without being well fill'd.

These kind of Stumps and Hooks will not please our Gard'ners at first, who neither know my Principles, nor the way of Cupping; which we have explain'd here above: But if, after having known my Reasons, and long Experience, they will neither approve, or try them, so much the worse for them; they must give me leave to pity their Ignorance, or Obstinacy.

[illustration]

CHAP. XXIV.

Of the Pruning that must be perform'd the Third Year, upon all sorts of Trees planted within Four Years.

THis Case does not require the preceding Distinctions we have made, to determine what was to be done to Trees, according to the smaller or greater quantity of Branches they had produc'd the first Year: They must, at the end of four Years, be partly all of the same Classis, though they be not all furnish'd with an equal quantity of thick Branches: But however, both the one and the other must have produc'd a sufficient number, to shew a Head entirely form'd; and though even that, for Example, which had produc'd but one the first Year, shou'd have produc'd but four or five in the fourth, still there shou'd be nothing to be said in respect to that, since that, if it be vigorous, it will partly fall under the Case of a Tree which at first had produc'd four or five, or more; and if it be not of those that are capable of producing more than one thick Branch on the Extremity of the Pruning, you must regulate your self upon the meanness of its Vigour, both in keeping the thickest Branches short, and expecting but one thick one on the Ex∣tremity of each, making it ever grow on that part where the Figure requires it most.

We must always inviolably follow the Idea of a fine Tree we have first of all propos'd to our selves, either in a Dwarf, or Wall-Tree, and never fail to proportion the Burthen of the Head to the Vigour of the Foot, in leaving more and longer Branches on a vigorous Tree, and less and shorter on that which appears weak.

And whereas many old Branches must be carefully preserv'd on a vigorous Tree, espe∣cially for Fruit, provided there be no Confusion; on the contrary, you must ease a weak Tree of the Burthen of the old Branches, as well those that are for Wood, as those that are for Fruit; and out them short, in order to make it shoot new ones, if it can, with resolu∣tion to pull it out of the Ground, if not able to perform it; which being done, a better must be plac'd in its room, after having taken away all the old Earth, which may be judg'd to be either ill, or worn out, and having put new in the room of it.

I still forewarn, that, in Pruning, Provision must be made for those Branches that may pro∣ceed from those that are Pruning, in order to prepare some that may be proper for the Figure, with this Assurance, that when a high Branch is taken down over a lower, this being strengthen'd by all the Nourishment that wou'd have gone to the highest, which has been taken away; this low Branch, I say, will produce more Branches than it shou'd have done, had it receiv'd no Re-inforcement.

In short, when, according to my Principles, a young Tree shall have been conducted to a fourth Pruning, the Effect will infallibly have made good what I have promis'd, both as to the beautiful Figure, which must then appear in its prime, and as to the Fruit, of which, Pears then begin to shew a Sample, and Stone-Fruit abundance: After this, apparently every body must be capable thenceforward to manage all manner of Fruit-Trees, without needing any other Instructions than the preceding; and indeed, I have no other new ones to give; and it wou'd be ridiculous and tiresom to repeat the same things, which, in my Opinion, I have sufficiently establish'd.

It seldom happens, that all the Trees of the same Garden, though order'd alike, prove equally vigorous; no more than the Children of the same Father, all equally healthy: Trees, as well as Men, are subject to an infinite number of Accidents, that can neither be fore-seen, nor avoided; but it is certain, that all the Trees of a Garden may be form'd agreeably in their Figure; and this is one of the principal things to which a Gard'ner is oblig'd.

Above all, I advise every body not to be obstinate in preserving Pear-Trees, which year∣ly, towards the end of Summer, grow extream yellow, without having produc'd fine Shoots; nor those, of which the Extremities of the Branches likewise die every Year. They are com∣monly Trees graffed upon Quince; of which, some of the principal Roots are dead, or rot∣rotten: They are Trees that produce but small Roots at the upper part of the Foot, and consequently, Roots that are expos'd to all the Injuries of the Air, and of the Spade.

The same thing may be said of the Peach-Trees that appear the first Years to gather Gum at the greatest part of their Eyes, and of those that are extreamly attack'd with cer∣tain little Fleas and Pismires. Such Peach-Trees have certainly some rotten Roots, and will never do well.

I am likewise of the same Opinion for those Trees that shoot on all sides an infinite number of little, weak, sapless Branches, with some thick ones here and there; both the one and the other, for the most part, of false Wood: In which case, a great deal of time may be lost upon ill-grounded hopes.

That which is best to be done in all these Occasions, is, as soon as can be to remove such Trees; and when they are not extreamly old, or spoil'd by the Roots, venture to plant them again in some other place, in good Ground, after having cleans'd them of all their Rot∣tenness and Cankers, in order to see if they will come to any thing, to make use of them elsewhere; which happens sometimes with Pear-Trees, but very seldom with Stone-Fruit, especially Peach-Trees; still putting better in the room of them, with all the Conditions heretofore explain'd.

CHAP. XXV.

Of the first Pruning of Trees that have been Planted with many Branches.

AFter having sufficiently explain'd, in the Treatise of Plantations, my Aversion to plant little Trees with many Branches, I am willing at present to believe, that as I seldom plant any, those who will do me the honour to imitate me, will do the same. However, Those that will plant such, must principally observe two things: The first is, to cut off whatever may cause a Confusion, and is not proper to begin a fine Figure. The second, to leave a Length of about six or seven Inches to every Branch they preserve upon them: And as for the other Branches that shall proceed from these, they must regulate themselves upon the Principles which we have sufficiently establish'd for the Pruning of other Trees:

It is certain, that such Trees, planted with Branches, are not commonly so easily turn'd to receive a fine Figure, as those I affect to plant: The old Branches that are left upon them, are not often happy in producing others on their Extremity, yet less to have them well-plac'd; they generally produce them disorderly, and consequently must be often wounded, before what is desir'd can be met with; but when at last attain'd, 'tis but following what has been said distinctly enough for the management of a Tree, which having been planted without any Branches, has since produc'd some very fine ones, and very well plac'd.

And when Trees have been planted with a great many more and longer Branches than they shou'd have been, so that there appears no manner of disposition towards the Figure we ought to wish for, Endeavours must be us'd immediately to reduce them upon a fine Be∣ginning, and that conformably to the Ideas of Beauty so often explain'd.

What we shall say hereafter, for the first Pruning of old Trees, that have never been or∣der'd well, may serve altogether for the first Pruning of these, without saying any thing more about it.

Though commonly, either as to low Standards, or Espaliers, I condemn the manner of Planting little Trees with many Branches, by reason of the Inconveniences which attend them, in respect to the Figure they ought to have, I am not, however, so severe in rela∣tion to high Standards, in which I do not condemn it so much, by reason that they do not require so great an Exactness for their Beauty: So that I allow they shou'd be planted some∣times with some Branches on their heads, when some are found well enough dispos'd for it; they will certainly produce Fruit sooner than the others: But still I have a particular Esteem for those that are planted without any.

There are some other Occasions in which a Tree may be planted with many Branches; and that is, in a great Plantation, where some other is dead; for supposing the Ground to be very good, and other good Mould put into the Hole, made to plant the other, in such a Case a Tree may very well be planted with some Branches, especially those Trees that are diffi∣cult to fructifie. For Example, your Lady-Thigh, Pears without Rinds, Virgoulez, &c.

CHAP. XXVI.

Of the Pruning of High-Standards, or Tall Body'd Trees.

AS the Number of Principles for the Pruning of Dwarf-Trees has been very great, so the number of Principles for Pruning of High-Standards Planted in open Wind, shall be very small: For as to High-standards Planted against a Wall, they all require the same Precautions as the little ones; so that instead of medling yearly with those Great Trees, I only desire, as I have said in the beginning of this Treatise, that they should be touch'd once or twice in the beginnings, that is, in the three or four first years, in order to remove some Branches from the middle, which might cause a confusion there; or to shorten a side which rises too much, or bring another nearer, which extends farther than in reason it ought to do: As for the remainder, we must refer it to Nature, and let her produce freely what she can, there would be too much pain and labour to order these with as much Circumspection as the others.

CHAP. XXVII.

Of the first Conduct of Graffs in Slits made and multiply'd upon Old Trees, in place, either Dwarfs, or Espaliers.

NOthing is so common in our Gardens, as to Graff in Slits upon Old Trees, be it either to be rid of some ill Fruit we are weary of, or to improve some considerable No∣velty that has been discover'd; so that often we do not even spare good kinds, of such Trees of which we have a sufficient Number.

Now as many things are to be said upon those sort of Graffs, and first, if the Tree has so little thickness as not to be able to receive above one, as none are commonly apply'd without having three Eyes; it may very well happen that every such Graff shall produce three fine Branches fit to lay the foundation of a fine Tree; in which Case, we must have recourse to what we have said heretofore of the first Pruning of a Tree, which in the first year had produc'd three fair Shoots; and may allow them about two or three Eyes more in length; if, as in all likelyhood it ought to happen, the Graff has produc'd very Vigorous Twigs, especially if the Tree appears inclinable to close.

In the second place, if the Tree to be Graffed is thick enough to receive two Graffs, as it is when it has a good Inch Diameter, or a little more; and if the two Graffs produce each two or three fine Branches, as it happens pretty often, then it is fit to study hard to avoid the great confusion that is threaten'd here by the great Proximity of Graffs, and con∣sequently we must study to open; therefore among those Branches, those that being thick and inwards, form that defect which we must never suffer, must be taken away, either within the thickness of a Crown Piece, or slopingly, according as the Prudence of the Gard'ner, and the occasion of the Tree shall prescribe: After which, not only the first Pruning shall be perform'd a little longer than that of the Trees that have been Planted within a year or two, but a greater quantity of Branches must be kept upon them, as well quickly to finish the Figure, if the Matter be fit for it, as to imploy for a certain time the overplus of Sap we judge fit for our Designs, and that Plurality of Branches may comprehend those Stumps and temporary Branches, as well as kind of Hooks that are on the outside, which I have spoken of heretofore.

In the third place, the same regards must be observ'd, and with more severity, as well for the Overture, as for the length of the first Prunings, if the Graffed Tree has been ca∣pable of receiving upon its head to the number of three or four Graffs, which happens when you Graff Crown-wise.

So much the rather, if the Tree having several thick Branches all pretty near the one to the other, and all capable of receiving several Graffs on the Head, it comes to be Graffed upon every one of them. Such a Tree is apparently a little Old, and yet vigorous enough, so that all the Sap which was prepar'd by the great number of its Roots, and was sufficient for the Nourishment and Maintenance of a great quantity of long and strong Branches, finding it self pent up in the little compass of those Graffs, produces generally there Branches

of an extraordinary thickness and length, to that degree, that pretty often one Eye pro∣duces two or three Branches, most of them strong.

In such Cases, all the Prudence of a Skilful Gard'ner is requir'd to make a good use of that great Vigour thus reduc'd, to the end that by means of a wise Conduct in a short time a Tree may be brought to a fine Figure, and to bear a great deal: Nothing is more common than to see such Graffs ill order'd, and, if I may say so, Cobbled and Massacred; and Consequently woe to that Tree, which for the first time falls under the hands of an ignorant Gard'ner.

The great Overture of the Tree, the reasonable length of certain Branches that are es∣sentially necessary for the Figure, the Plurality of such as are not so; and that as well by the means of short and long Stumps, &c. as by means of those that are not imploy'd, and may be remov'd at pleasure, without harming the Tree, both by the way of such Prunings as are perform'd within the thickness of a Crown Piece, and by the great length of the weakest Branches for Fruit, &c. All these together are Soveraign Remedies, and pretty easie against the disorders that might arise from such an abundance of Sap so reduc'd with∣in a small compass; but yet how many ill-favour'd Trees are daily seen, for want of the Gard'ners having good Principles, or for not having Practis'd them from the beginning.

In the fourth place, the second, third, and fourth years, and even longer, if it falls out so, you must labour in the manner aforesaid, until the Tree begins to yield Fruit, and then you must not only return to the Pruning of six or seven Inches upon each Branch, but likewise take them lower from year to year, here and there, in order to have the lower part of your Tree always well fill'd, which you cannot arrive to by any other means.

What I have now said in general upon Old Trees Graffed a-new in Place, may be indifferently apply'd as well to Dwarf-standards as to Wall-Fruit-Trees; which being granted, we must ever propose to our selves the fine Ideas both of the one, and the other, which we have recommended at the beginning of this Treatise; knowing for certain, that confusion and thinness are of a dangerous Consequence in point of Espaliers, as well as Dwarfs, tho' we must grant, that the conveniency of tacking the Branches of Wall-Fruit-Trees, and by that means of constraining them to lye as we would have them, renders the manage∣ment of them much easier, more secure, and quicker for success, than it can be for Dwarf-standards.

CHAP. XXVIII.

Of what is to be done in Cases not foreseen, and yet pretty common to all manner of Trees, even to those that have been manag'd according to all the Rules of Art.

I Think I may suppose, that whoever has with a sufficient application read over what I have establish'd here for the Pruning of Trees, has acquir'd a sufficient Knowledge, either to understand it well, or to put it in Practice with Pleasure and Advantage: To tell the Truth, I should be infinitely deceiv'd if it were not so, having made it my study with all the Care imaginable, to render my self intelligible, as well to the Ignorant, and the Novice, as to the Man of Understanding, whether Gard'ner or not, who shall be de∣sirous to know my Sentiments upon this Matter. But I must add to this, that yet to ar∣rive to a greater perfection of Knowledge, it will be necessary, for two or three years, to endeavour the putting in Practice upon young Trees both the Principles and Manner I use: Experience far exceeding Theory, or Speculation in this Case, as well as in all other practicable Arts and Sciences.

I dare affirm, that hardly any difficulty would ever be found in the Application of these Principles, if, as I may say, Nature was always wise in the Production of Branches and Fruits; or if she could be govern'd as the Carver governs his Marble, and the Painter his Colours; but it is certain, that whatever care we take for the Conduct of our Trees, yet we cannot always Labour about them with so much success, as to oblige Nature, which we are not altogether masters of, on all Occasions to answer our Intentions and La∣bour.

Nature is a particular Agent, but yet a necessary one, which in her Actions depends upon an infinite number of Circumstances, either as to Times, and Seasons, or Grounds, of which, some are Good, and others Bad; some Hot, some Cold, some Dry, some

Moist; or Lastly, in relation to the different temper of Trees, of which some are apter to bear Fruit than others; some to produce more Branches, others less, some for Stone-Fruit, others for Kernel; and some others are even of a particular kind; as Figgs, Grapes, &c.

I do not know whether I might not say, that pretty often the Rules for Pruning are in some respects the same in relation to Trees, as the Rules of Christian Morality are in re∣spect to the Conduct of Men; our Trees to me, seem impatient under the Constraint we im∣pose upon them, to keep them low; and sometimes tack'd against a Wall; they seem to aim constantly at their escape, and to surprize the Gard'ner, to shoot where he would not have them, and produce Branches where he would have none; just as the Corrupt Na∣ture of Man often Rebels against the Divine Laws and Reason, and affects most of those things which Morality forbids.

It is likewise true, that in our Trees there sometimes happen certain Inconveniencies, which we could neither foresee, nor hinder; but at least, when they are come to pass, we must apply our selves to avoid the ill Consequences that might attend them; and moreover, if it be possible, as I have pretty often Cause to believe it may; we must endeavour to draw Advantages from them.

There are in this certain Particulars, which may prove tiresom to some Readers, I mean such as have no occasion for them, or such as do not care to understand Pruning to the bottom; but I hope they may prove of great use, or at least afford some Pleasure to true Gard'ners, who are sensible that nothing is so proper to improve in all manner of Sciences, as those studied and instructive Particulars.

I have in my time made many Remarks upon several particular Cases relating to the Pruning of all manner of Trees; which I look upon as proper to be added here, together with the Conduct I have held towards them.

But first, I think my self oblig'd to say that Stone-Fruit, and especially Peuch-Trees, and even Apricocks, greatly require a second Pruning, and sometimes a third, besides the first which is done at the end of Winter: Those last Prunings must be perform'd towards the middle of May, when the Fruit is either knit, or blasted: At which time, I dare af∣firm, that they are not only advantageous, but even very necessary; at the same time you must likewise Trim the Buds and useless Branches of some others, which is no less necessary than those kind of Prunings.

These last Operations, Viz. the second and third Pruning of Stone-Fruit, and the Trimming of the Buds and useless Branches of all manner of Trees, are necessary, both to strengthen cer∣tain Branches, which may be of use for the future to make Branches for Wood, as well as to take away intirely some that are grown useless, and inconvenient; their Function which was to bear Fruit, not having succeeded, their Blossoms being destroy'd. I will make a Par∣ticular Chapter of this hereafter, after having explain'd all the Particulars I have mention'd for Pruning.

All these I have divided into Four Classis; of which the first consists of those Re∣marks that are generally common for the Pruning of all manner of Fruit-Trees, whe∣ther Dwarfs, or Wall-Trees: This Classis has a pretty large extent, and shall be the first I will Explain.

The Second of the Remarks that are peculiar in every Year to the first Pruning of Stone-Fruit, especially Peach-Trees, and Apricocks.

The Third, of those Remarks that relate only to the Second and Third Pruning of those very Stone-Fruits, as well Espaliers, as Dwarfs.

And Lastly, the Fourth is for the Trimming of the Buds and useless Branches of both.

CHAP. XXIX.

Common Remarks for certain singular Cases relating to the Pruning of all manner of Trees.

I Shall set down the whole Matter of this Chapter without Order or Connection, by rea∣son that it would almost be impossible to do it otherwise, every Case being Singular, and without the least relation to the other; as well as that, in my Opinion, it would be of no use, tho' it might be done; Besides, I did set down things carefully in my Journal, according to the Singularities I observ'd by degrees in my Studies upon Vegetation, and

therefore I think it will not be improper to Communicate them in the same Method I Collected them, which is as followeth.

1 Observation.

WHen from any part of a Branch that has been couch'd and constrain'd against a Wall, or from some part of the Branch of a Dwarf which Naturally stands Horizontally; that is, which instead of mounting upwards, like most of the others, has inclin'd sidewise (I have a great value for such which grow soon Branches for Fruit) I say, when such Branches have shot some of false Wood, which can neither serve towards the Figure, nor for Fruit, I Cut them within the thickness of a Crown Piece, or slopingly, according to my occasion, otherwise that false Wood would ruine that which is good, or at least it would ruine it from the part it came from, to the Extremity of the Branch; and if in the Sum∣mer I perceive the Beginning or Birth of such Branches, I break them off immediately, which is done with ease, pressing them downward with the Thumb, where they begin to appear, or in drawing them towards one.

2 Observation.

I Likewise remove all pretty strong Branches, shooting from a kind of hard knob upon which the stalks of Pears did grow, and upon which there may perhaps still be new ones; there is seldom any Foundation to be laid upon such Branches; therefore when I observe any such in the Summer, I tear them off immediately.

3 Observation:

I Do the same with those Branches which proceed from those which Originally were short and streight, looking upon the Horizon, and plac'd in the form of a Spur upon certain Trees where these Spurs are common, and extraordinary good to be preserv'd; such as Ambret, Virgoule, Burgamots, &c. either in Dwarf, or Wall-Tree; those sort of Branches grown from those kind of Spurs will never be good for any thing, they will ruine both the Beauty of the Figure, and the disposition to Fruit, which commonly at∣tends those kind of Spurs; and if, as it happens often, Nature seems obstinate, in produ∣cing upon those Spurs these kind of Branches which I am an Enemy to; it will be ne∣cessary, finally, to cut those Spurs within the thickness of a Crown Piece, in order wholly to remove the great Course of Sap which throws it self on that side, and does it a prejudice; we have already sufficiently spoken as to the effect of such an extraordinary Pruning.

4 Observation.

THe Pruning of weak long Branches may as well be perform'd by breaking them only on the Extremity, as in cutting them with the Pruning-Knife, and perhaps better, as well as faster; In my Opinion, in breaking of them we waste more Sap, which may be of use to form Fruit-Buds the sooner, since, as we have already said, they only grow on those places that receive little Sap.

5 Observation.

A Skilful Curious Gard'ner ought never to suffer any dry or dead Argot, or Cock-spur upon any Trees, but cut them off close when ever he perceives them, unless it be upon cer∣tain Peach-Trees that appear somewhat inclin'd to Gum, upon which it is dangerous to do it, by reason that the wound cannot soon be clos'd, and that the Gum Supurates through it; but it is certain that it is both a Beauty and Advantage, especially in Kernel-Fruit, to cut off wholly all those kind of Argots, by reason that the part infallibly closes again, provided the Tree be sound.

By this word Argot, I mean in this place, the Old Extremity of a Branch which has been formerly shorten'd at some distance from the Eye, so that this Eye has afterwards shot another Branch, and this same Extremity is grown dry, and half dead without having profited since the Pruning, which has given it Birth.

6. Observation.

WHen from some good part of a Tree, which in the first Years had only produc'd Branches of a moderate Vigour, and thereby gave but little hopes of a long Con∣tinuance, we afterwards come to get one or two fine Branches, or more, though all of false Wood; if I find that I may lay the Foundation of a fine new Figure upon it for such a Tree, I always do it conformably to the Rules heretofore establish'd, and in the mean time I still preserve all the ancient weak ones, as long as they are capable of yield∣ing Fruit, with a Resolve to cut them as soon as they cease to bear; and by that time, others shall have form'd themselves in the new Figure, and those shall insensibly supply the room of the old Branches.

But in case such Branches shou'd grow in a place whence I can draw no advantage to form a fine Tree, I take them off quite, in hopes that another Year may produce more favourable ones; supposing that such a Tree having been capable to shoot some, though ill-plac'd, the Vigour of it not only subsists, but even increases still, and will certainly produce new ones, and probably better plac'd; such kind of Branches will owe their Birth to some new Roots, which shall have been form'd in an extraordinary manner.

7. Observation.

IF likewise I find that an old Tree, and a little elevated, shoots finer Branches towards the bottom than on the top, and find the top in an ill Case, and almost forsaken by Nature, I abandon it likewise, and follow the Alteration which is happen'd, in order to begin a new Figure, and consequently make a new Tree again. Those Alterations hap∣pen pretty often, especially in Peach-Trees that begin to grow old: 'Tis fit, in such a Case, to improve the Advertisement Nature gives us.

But if the top appears pretty good and vigorous, so that it may yet last long in the Condition it is in, I then cut off entirely the new Branches that shoot below, to preserve the old ones, unless I find room in the Neighbourhood of the Foot to place these new Branches.

8. Observation.

I Never value certain small Branches, little and weak, which shoot from other small, weak Branches; from which, if thick ones chance to shoot, I only consider them as Branches of false Wood, and use them accordingly.

9. Observation.

IN the Order Nature commonly observes for the Production of Branches and Roots, what is produc'd a-new is less thick than the place from whence it is produc'd: And if, con∣trary to that Order, the Branches or Roots that are shot prove thicker than those whence they are produc'd, the new ones are commonly of false Wood, and must be us'd according∣ly; still supposing, in respect to the Branches, that those which are of false Wood may be prejudicial to the Figure, or Fruit, as we have heretofore explain'd: For if, instead of being prejudicial, their Situation shou'd favour the Figure, or even be capable of waste∣ing for a time part of the Sap, which is too abounding here; in such a Case, they must be preserv'd according to our foregoing Rules; but in the Case of Roots, as the thickest are always the best, the distinction of false Wood not being essential here, we must always preserve them, let them be grown how they will, and destroy the old ones, which seem to be abandon'd.

10. Observation:

A Branch must never be Prun'd without considering first the place whence it proceeds, to judge whether it be good, and capable of answering our End: For some Branches might be look'd upon as thick ones, if they proceeded originally from a weak place; which, notwithstanding, ought to be look'd upon as weak ones, because they proceed from a place being originally strong and vigorous; and so of the rest.

11. Observation.

LIkewise, a Tree must never be Prun'd without having first examin'd the Effect of the preceding Pruning, in order to correct the Defects of it, if any; or else of preserving its Beauty with Care.

12. Observation.

IN point of Dwarfs, where we have not the convenience of Tying the Branches, as in Wall-Fruit-Trees; in order to judge of the quantity of Buds that must be left upon each Fruit-Branch, we must consider what the strength of such a Branch is capable of bearing of it self, without being expos'd to the hazard of breaking; and therefore it will be proper to lean upon the Extremity of such a Branch, to the end that, by the great or small Re∣sistance we find in leaning upon it, compar'd to the known Weight of such a kind of Fruit, the Burthen may be proportion'd to the strength or weakness of the Branch.

13. Observation.

COmmonly in Peach and Plum-Trees, if a pretty old thick Branch be shorten'd, there are seldom any new ones to be expected, either on the Extremity, or in the whole Compass of it; the Sap of such a Tree can hardly penetrate so hard a Bark: But yet sometimes, the Tree having some Vigour left, the Sap produces its Effect upon the youngest Branches, near to that old one in question.

But the contrary as to Apricock-Trees, either old, or young; or young Peach-Trees, and all other kind of Trees; we may regularly expect new Branches from the old ones which have been cut shorter, seldom meeting with any disappointment.

14. Observation.

WHereas in vigorous Trees, either young or old, as we have so often declar'd, we only look for Fruit upon the weak Branches; on the contrary, in weak Trees, that have but little Vigour, we must look for Fruit upon the strong ones, and never upon the weak; those having too much weakness to be able produce sine Fruit, and the others, which appear thick, and indeed are only so compar'd to the small Vigour of the whole Tree, have no more Sap in them than is requir'd for the forming of fine Fruit: So that in such weak Trees, all the small Branches must be taken away; they always appear worn out, whether they have given Fruit, or not; and they often perish without having fructify'd.

15. Observation.

IN all sorts of Fruit-Trees, being sound, a single Eye sometimes produces to the number of two, three, or four Branches, and for the most part pretty fine ones: It is necessary to judge prudently which are the fittest to be preserv'd, either for Wood, or Fruit, and which are to be cut off quite: It seldom happens that above two are preserv'd, and even those must look upon two empty Sides, distant from each other; to that End the middlemost of the three is often taken away, and so the two remaining receive the better nourishment. This Operation ought to be perform'd in Trimming the Buds, and useless Branches, which is in May, or June.

16. Observation.

IN Espaliers, or Wall-Fruit-Trees, all the Branches may easily be dispos'd on one side or other, provided they be tack'd while they are young, for then they are easily bent; but if they be not order'd at that time, and shou'd make an ill Figure, they must be cut within the thickness of a Crown-piece, at the Season of the first Pruning, which shall be in February or March of the following Year; or, at least, upon the first Eye, in hopes that the sides of that thickness may produce some Branches which may prove more useful than the Mother.

17. Observation.

THough it be in some manner disagreeable, as well in a Wall-Fruit-Tree, as (especial∣ly) in a Dwarf, to see a thick Branch crossing the middle of the Tree, yet it is fit to preserve it when it contributes to the filling up of one of the Sides, which, without it, wou'd remain empty, and is necessary for the Beauty of the Figure. Such Niceties need not be observ'd for Fruit-Branches; they are good in any part.

18. Observation.

OF all that depends upon Art, nothing seems securely capable of strength'ning a weak Branch, being within the extent of a thick one, but the taking away of all the other Branches which are superior to it, and even that part from whence it shoots; so that this may arrive to be the highest of those that proceed from the same Mother, and con∣sequently forms an Extremity to it. All the first, second and third Prunings, as well as the Trimming of the Buds and useless Branches in the Month of May, are very proper for it; but when naturally a Branch is weak on the Extremity of a thick one, there is no cer∣tainty of strengthning it, unless it be by removing an old Branch, originally superior to that whence that weak one sprung.

Not but Nature sometimes effects such things of her self, without removing any supe∣rior thing; as we have observ'd, speaking of some Fruit-Branches, which, by an over∣flowing of Sap, thicken more than naturally they shou'd do; but we being ignorant how this is done, cannot possibly imitate it.

19. Observation.

IN order to Prune very vigorous Peach-Trees towards the end of the Winter, for the first time, it is necessary to tarry till they are ready to Blossom, in order to know with more certainty the Buds that will Blossom, for there are a great many Blossom-Buds which never Blossom, the coldness of the Winter, or the abundance of new Sap, and sometimes the Gum, destroying a great quantity. Those Buds being known, we must regulate our selves accordingly, both for the choice of those Branches that are to be preserv'd, and for the length that is to be allow'd to them.

20. Observation.

WE observe, that the Fruit-Buds that are on the Extremities of the Branches are com∣monly thicker, and better fed than the others; which confirms what the Order of the Production of new Branches had taught us; which is, that the Sap always goes more abundantly to the Extremities, than elsewhere; which has given a Rise to the Maxim I have establish'd in my Reflections for the Effect of the Strong and Weak, in relation to Fruit-Buds, which form themselves upon all kind of Branches, strong or weak. From thence I concluded, that, especially for weak Trees, it is good to Prune them betimes, not to let the Sap waste it self in vain on Extremities that must be retrench'd. This teaches us besides, that in the Winter both the Branches and Buds thicken: We know it suffi∣ciently, by the Example of Almond-Trees Graffed at the end of Autumn, which, before the Return of the Spring, appear extreamly press'd by the Flax that had been apply'd to them in Graffing.

21. Observation.

WE must never begin to Prune an Espalier, or Wall-Fruit-Tree, until it be quite untack'd; for, besides that the Pruning is perform'd with more ease, and quicker, it happens, besides, that in Tacking for the first time after the Pruning, the preserv'd Branches are the better order'd; and that often, out of Laziness, instead of undoing a Tack, to make a new one, a Branch is left as it was found, though ill-plac'd.

22. Observation.

IT is often necessary to Untack; for the first Tacking of the Month of May, first, in order to equal the Figure; in the second place, to remove from behind the Props or Stays such Branches as were already flip'd behind them; which must never be suffer'd there: Therefore it behoves one to be careful in the Month of May, often to visit Wall-Fruit-Trees, as well to prevent such Disorders, as to remove the languishing, wretched Shoots that wou'd only cause a Confusion.

23. Observation.

THE multitude of Branches in the first Year, is not always a sign of Vigour; on the contrary, when they prove all weak ones, it is an ill Omen, which shews an Infirmity in the Roots. And thus, for Example, Redness in the Cheeks is not always a sign of Health.

24. Observation.

WHen a Tree, either Dwarf, or Espalier, is great and old, it seldom shoots any green Branches; and consequently, it is not likely that any Faults can be com∣mitted in Pruning of it; always supposing, if a Dwarf, that it is open; if an Espalier, that the Figure of it be passably well establish'd: Faults are only greatly to be fear'd upon very vigorous Trees, which perform more than the Gard'ner wou'd have them; that is, produce more Branches than he expected.

25. Observation.

WE can only judge of the Thickness and Weakness of Branches, comparatively to those that are adjoining to them in one and the same Tree. For Example, Some are deem'd weak in one part of a Tree, or in certain Trees, which in another might pass for thick ones: The Neighbourhood of a very thick one renders another, that is not so thick, weak, as well as many weak ones render another, that is not so weak, thick.

26. Observation.

THis Rule is very considerable, in order not to fail, affording sometimes an extraordinary length to certain Branches; which, though pretty thick, ought notwithstanding to be look'd upon here as weak and small, the length being necessitated by the Consideration of other neighbouring Branches, and thicker; which in the Neighbourhood, are look'd upon, and us'd like Branches for Wood.

27. Observation.

WHen weak Branches are very slender on their Extremities, it is a certain sign of an extream Weaknes; wherefore they must be much shorten'd: And when they are pretty thick there, they must be left somewhat longer, because they really are not so weak.

28. Observation.

THE farther a weak Branch is distant from the Heart of the Tree, the less Nourish∣ment it receives; therefore, in such Occasions, we must draw nearer upon the lowest; whereas, on the contrary, the farther a thick Branch is distant from the Heart, the more Nourishment it receives; for which reason it must be remov'd, in order to keep the Vi∣gour in the middle, or in the lower part of the Tree.

29. Observation.

FRom some Trees, either old or new-planted, especially Pear-Trees, either Dwarfs, or Wall-Trees, sometimes proceed Horizontal Branches, of an ordinary thickness, which are admirable to be preserv'd for Fruit, either shooting outwards or inwards: But regularly most Branches streighten again, and threaten a great deal of Confusion, if Care be not taken to take away those that are worst plac'd; or else are apt to disgarnish, unless one be severe in cutting some of them short.

30. Observation.

SOmetimes some Branches are Prun'd like Branches for Wood, though in reallity they have no more thickness than a Fruit-Branch shou'd have; and therefore must not be look'd upon as being real Branches for Wood, proper to establish and preserve long part of the Figure of a Tree, but rather as half Wood-Branches: They really are of some use for the Figure, and to fill up some Vacuity for two or three Years; after which, they must perish, which must be expected; and, without relying upon them, endeavour to get others near them, to supply their Room; otherwise a Tree will soon grow defective.

31. Observation.

WHen a Tree, either Dwarf, or, particularly, a Wall-Fruit-Tree, especially Peach, or Plumb-Tree, no longer shoots new Branches, it must be look'd upon as a de∣cay'd Tree, and therefore another must be prepar'd against the next Year; and without

Pruning any of its Branches for Wood, all those that are likely to produce fine Fruit, must be preserv'd to that end, retrenching all the Sapless ones exactly, as being incapable of doing any good.

32. Observation.

YOU must never Prune a Branch for Wood, when you have no such occasion for it; and therefore, for Example, when a high Standard begins to be press'd by the Neighbourhood of a lower Tree, so as to be partly necessitated to cut off some of the lowest Branches of that high Standard, to make room for the highest of its Neighbour; in such a Case, those Branches of the high Standard must be left long for Fruit, especially if it be vigo∣rous, and can nourish these without prejudicing the principal Branches: And thereby Endea∣vours are us'd to get some Fruit, by the extraordinary length of such Branches, before one be necessitated to cut them off quite.

33. Observation.

WE must cut Stump-wise, that is, entirely, all the thick Branches that are shot from the Extremity of another passably thick and long, which, if Prun'd according to the com∣mon Method of Pruning, wou'd grow too naked, and too long; and consequently, wou'd look disagreeable. By this manner of Pruning Stump-wise, we may commonly hope for some new Branches from the Body of the old one, proper to maintain the Beauty of the Figure, in filling up every part.

34. Observation.

WE likewise cut Stump-wise when, upon a very vigorous Tree, of two strong Branches, grown on the Extremity of a vigorous one, we think fit to use the Second prefera∣bly to the First, and yet do not think it proper to strengthen that Second any more; and so we leave, for the space of a Year or two, or more, a small passage for the Sap to the highest cut Stumpwise, in order to take it quite away, as well as the new Branch that shall be shot from it, as soon as the Tree shall begin to bear Fruit.

However, I must confess, that the most common Use that is made of that way of Pruning Stump-wise, is seldom for any Branches, but such that, from weak, and passably long as they were, are grown extraordinary thick and vigorous; insomuch that they have shot from their Extremity one, or two, or many thick Branches. The original Weak∣ness of such Branches only proceeded from their length, which shou'd not have been al∣low'd them, had they been as thick as they are grown since; and therefore, being grown thick, they must begin to be us'd like Branches for Wood; that is, they must be shorten'd.

35. Observation.

AND in case that Branch cut Stump-wise has produc'd no Branches for Wood in its Extent, especially drawing near to the place whence it proceeded, and on the con∣trary, has shot a thick Branch at the place of the Stump, or close by it, this last thick one must again be cut Stump-wise, especially the old one not being too long; for if it be too long, and has not been shorten'd at a proper time, the Pruning must be perform'd upon the Body of that old one, and consequently shorten'd, according to the Rules heretofore establish'd.

36. Observation.

IF on an old, but pretty vigorous Tree, altogether disorder'd with false Wood, barely by the defects of an ill-perform'd Pruning, Care be not taken for three or four Years, one after another, to take it lower, by a Branch or two yearly, until it be quite shorten'd, it will never yield any satisfaction; but by that means it may very well be brought to be a fine and good Tree. This is fit to be done, when a Tree is of a very good kind: If not, it were better to take it quite down, and to Graff a better kind upon it Slit-wise, either of such as we have not already, or have not a sufficient number of.

37. Observation.

SOmetimes certain Trees are so vigorous, that they cannot, especially the first Years, be reduc'd to a small compass; therefore they must be allow'd to extend either upwards, or on the sides; otherwise they will only produce false Wood: Afterwards you may by degrees reduce them to the Standard of others, when they begin to bear Fruit. Such are com∣monly, Virgoulé, Lady-Thighs, Saint-Lezin, Robine, Rousselets, or Russettings, &c.

38. Observation.

A Very vigorous Tree can never have too many Branches, provided they be well order'd, and cause no Confusion; whereas, on the contrary, a weak Tree can never have too few, that the Burthen may be proportion'd to the Vigour of it; and therefore you must seldom leave any upon it, but such thick Branches as it may have.

39. Observation.

THE Branches of false Wood, or Suckers, as to Peach-Trees, and other Stone-Fruit, are not commonly so defective as to the Eyes, or Buds, as those that grow upon Kernel-Fruit-Trees; but are more subject to perish, and to have their Eyes extinguish'd with Gum, which is a peculiar Distemper to them. As for the Pruning, they must partly be manag'd like the Branches of false Wood of Pear-Trees, when they are but in a small number upon a Tree; but when there are a great many on the lower part of a Tree, they must be look'd upon as pro∣per to renew that Tree; and therefore, a considerable length must be allow'd to some, in order to take them away when the fury shall be over; and in the mean time, those that shall be pitch'd upon for the Foundation of the Re-establishment of a fine Figure, must be Prun'd according to the common Method. We seldom meet with this abundance of thick Branches upon any but Peach-Trees, especially Stone-Peaches, which begin to grow ancient, and worn out about the head.

40. Observation.

ALL manner of Trees have a Branch or two predominant over the others, and some∣times more; happy are those in which the Vigour is divided, unhappy those where the Torrent lies all on one side.

41. Observation.

A Wood-Branch, growing on the in-side of a Dwarf which you intend to close, is ever welcome, and the same, if favourably plac'd to supply a thin side.

42. Observation.

FRuit-Buds of Pear and Apple-Trees sometimes form themselves the very same Years in which the Branch they are adherent to has been form'd, as generally all the Buds of Stone-Fruit do; but sometimes there are some that are two or three Years, and even longer, before they come to perfection: Some arrive to it at the Entrance of the Spring, so that it happens that some may be seen at the time of the Blossom, which did no wise appear during the Winter.

43. Observation.

THE Extremities of the Shoots that come out when Autumn is almost spent, espe∣cially after a great Cessation of Sap, which happens sometimes, are always bad; their Colour, which differs from the rest of the Branch, shews it sufficiently; and so, be∣ing good for nothing, they must be taken off, being likewise subject to perish: Gard'ners call them Branches of August.

44. Observation.

WE say, and with reason, that it is commonly in our power to make Fruit-Buds grow where we please; but it is not always so soon as we could wish.

45. Observation.

WHen it comes to pass that a thick Branch being prun'd, shoots three, of which, the highest proves of a good thickness, the second weak for Fruit, and the third thicker than the highest, two Considerations must be had to Prune them skilfully; that is, if the highest be fit enough for the Figure, it must be made use of, and the third, which is thicker, cut slantingly, or within the thickness of a Crown-piece.

But if this third Branch be better plac'd for the Figure, it may be Prun'd, as being a Branch for Wood, and the highest left for a Fruit-Branch, or rather for one of those that must be remov'd within a certain space of time, supposing it causes no Confusion, and

that the Tree is very vigorous; for if it causes a Confusion, or the Tree be but of an or∣dinary Vigour, it must only be cut Stump-wise, for fear of losing the disposition which the weak one had for Fruit, if we should wholly take away the highest over the weak one.

46. Observation.

IT is always a happiness, especially in Stone-Wall-Fruit-Trees, when from the lower part of the thick Branch there shoots, that very Year, another thick one. Our Trees are commonly but too much inclin'd to shoot upwards.

47. Observation.

YOU must never, upon any Consideration whatever, preserve your sapless Branches; not even if they were on the top of the Pruning of a vigorous Branch.

48. Observation.

WHen Dwarf-Pear-Trees of Beurré bear Fruit, they must commonly be Prun'd shorter than other Trees, by reason that as they produce a great deal of Fruit, and that that Fruit is large and heavy, they are apt to open, and spread too much; which Figure is not pleasing.

49. Observation.

DUring the Month of May one cannot be too careful in looking after Espaliers, espe∣cially Pear-Trees, to hinder good Branches from slipping behind the Stakes or Props, from which they cannot be remov'd afterwards, without either breaking them or the Lattice-frame.

50. Observation.

A Young Pear-Tree languishing or decaying in one part, may sometimes be re-esta∣blish'd, if, after having taken it out of the Ground, and Prun'd it every where, it be put into better Ground: But there is no help for a decaying Peach-Tree, especially Gum having appear'd upon it; those kind of Trees seldom are reviv'd.

51. Observation.

IF it happens that any Dwarf, planted within the space of three, four, or five Years, or of a longer standing, not having been well order'd in the Pruning, in order to form a lovely Figure; or perhaps having been spoil'd by some unexpected Accident, so as to be grown lower and thinner on one side than the other; if, I say, it happens fortu∣nately that such a Dwarf-Standard does shoot out of that defective side a Branch, which being thick, though of false Wood, may seem proper to correct the defect aforesaid, as it hap∣pens sometimes; in such a Case it is fit to allow such a Branch a greater length than my Maxims have for the general regulated for Branches of false Wood, to the end that this Branch being equal in heighth to those of the other side, the Figure of the Tree may ac∣quire the Perfection it wanted. The defect of extraordinary length in a Branch is not certainly so great as that of being crooked, flat, or slender, which it has now corrected in a Dwarf-Standard.

52. Observation.

ALL the Sap of a Tree being employ'd in forming many Branches, some strong, others weak, it will probably soon produce Fruit upon the weak ones: But when it abounds, and is confin'd within a very small number of Branches, for the most part thick, it will produce no Fruit any where, until the great Vigour of it be in some manner wasted by the great number of Branches it will produce in Succession of Time, which Branches must be preserv'd.

53. Observation.

WHen Trees are hard to produce Fruit, by reason of their being too Vigorous, as those are we have so often mention'd; especially certain Plumb-Trees that grow a∣gainst a Wall, one of the things I commonly do affect, is to leave a great deal of old Wood upon them, particularly for Fruit-Branches, avoiding, however, Confusion and Thinness, or Vacuity; but still, upon Condition, that when a Branch left long for Fruit the first

year, shall afterwards shoot another on the Extremity of it, which I likewise think sit to preserve; upon Condition, I say, that in case that Second should shoot a Third, the last must never be preserv'd, which would cause a disagreeable length, and yet would not answer our aim, which is to get Fruit.

In such Occasions I do one of these things, viz. I perform my Pruning upon the Se∣cond, the two having a sufficient length; or else I Prune the Third, which is shot from the end of the Second, Stump-wise, the two first not being excessive in length.

54. Observation.

THere are some moments in which a Skilful Man's Thoughts may be roving while he is Pruning, and so may chance to commit some Faults, which commonly are not very material, and are easily Corrected; as for Example, having left some Branches too long, or having preserv'd some that should have been taken away; therefore in my Opinion, a Revise is very necessary to be done the next day, if not that very day; without which, it is impossible to be fully cerain of what has been done; it is with this, as with all other Works in the World.

55. Observation.

WHen one side of an Old Tree, either Dwarf, or Wall-Tree, is extraordinarily Strong and Vigorous, and the other weak and slender; that is, properly speaking, when a Tree is Crooked, and disagreeable to sight, it is hard to reduce it to a fine Fi∣gure; then a great deal of care must be taken about that Vigorous side, in taking away the greatest part of the strong Branches close to the Stem, whence they shoot, or cut part of them Stump-wise, in expectation that at last the Sap which inclin'd altogether on that side, may turn it self towards that weak side, at which time we shall be enabled to begin the Repairs which were wanting.

56. Observation.

IN all sort of Trees care must be taken to allow less length to a Wood-Branch, that is somewhat weak, than to that Wood Branch which is thick and strong.

57. Observation.

IT is pretty common in all manner of Trees, especially when they are pretty Ancient, to find certain weak Branches, which, without having ever born any Fruit, are, as it were, threatned to perish for want; therefore it is requisite every year, at the time of the grand Pruning, and even at the time of the second, which is perform'd on Stone-Fruits, especially Wall-Fruit; I say it is requisite to take a special Care that such Branches may not be without Nourishment; to which end, they must be kept shorter, and the number of them diminish'd, and sometimes it will be fit to take away some of the thick ones that are Superior to them; or, if after such Branches have Blossom'd, that is, have perform'd the main part of their duty, their Blossom happens to perish, they must be wholly taken away, especially when there appears no disposition in them to shoot some good Branches for the following year.

58. Observation.

WHen a High Branch is taken away over a Lower, that is, as we have already said, what we call Lowering, or Shortning of a Tree, it must be cut so close, that no part of it may remain; to the end that the place may soon be cover'd again, and neatly; but when the lower is taken away to preserve the higher, we must keep of that low one, at least the thickness of a Crown Piece, or cut it slantingly, as we have said elsewhere, in hopes of a good new Branch.

59. Observation.

WHen a Branch of a good thickness being Prun'd pretty close, produces nothing but what is weak on its Extremity, it is a Sign that it is upon perishing, and that Na∣ture has withdrawn, in favour of another, the yearly substance she us'd to afford it; so that you must no longer rely upon it for the Beauty of the Tree.

60. Observation.

IF a Tree being crooked at the time of Planting, produces the first year a fine streight Branch, as it sometimes happens, you must shorten the whole Stem to that Branch, there only to fix the Foundation of the Beauty of that Tree.

61. Observation.

WE may better resolve to preserve upon a Wall-Fruit-Tree, a thick Branch, not being altogether well plac'd, than upon a Dwarf-Standard; where such a Branch might chance to be ill scituated, by reason of the facility we meet with in Wall-Trees, of turning and winding such a Branch at pleasure, or those that shall shoot from it, which cannot be effected in Dwarf-Standards, in which we want the Conveniency of tacking to the Right and Left; and such a Branch would make a Dwarf-Standard show awry: Therefore in a Dwarf-Standard such a Branch must be remov'd, whereas with the assistance of Ligatures it might serve to form a fine Wall-Tree, and therefore should be preserv'd.

62. Observation.

THE common length of Branches for Wood, which I willingly six to five, six, or seven inches, tho it is to be regulated and proportion'd upon many things, in order to be either more or less extended; for Example, upon the Vigour or Weakness of the whole Tree; upon the Thickness or Mediocrity of the Branch, to be longer where it meets with Vigour and Thickness, and shorter where it does not meet with it: This length is likewise to be re∣gulated upon the Vacuity that is to be fill'd, to be either more or less long, according as the Vacuity is either great or small: It must particularly be regulated upon the heighth of the other Branches for Wood of the same Tree, to the end, that those that are newly Prun'd, may be proportion'd to the Old ones.

63. Observation.

THere are some People who fancy that the Pruning of a Tree does not require much Art; to justifie which, they cite Great Trees that are never Prun'd, as also the Trees of certain Gard'ners, who, without ever having known how to Cut, Prune so happily, that they do not fail of having abundance of Fruit.

I have no answer to make to those People, or rather I have so many things to say, that I do not think it worth my while to answer them. Physicians, Lawyers, and most of the Learned in most Arts, sometimes in their turns, meet with such pretended Objections.

64. Observation.

WHen a Fine Fruit-Branch shoots many others, which likewise seem fit for Fruit, I am for preserving of them, when they cause no Confusion, and the Tree is Vi∣gorous, particularly in Pear-Trees.

65. Observation.

IT happens sometimes, especially in Wall-Fruit-Trees, that within the Compass of a Branch, which grows Thick and Vigorous the very Summer in which it is produc'd; I say, it happens sometimes, that one or two Thick ones form themselves, which are as it were after Shoots; so that whatever is beyond those New-comers, drawing towards the Extremity, appears incomparably smaller than what is on the other side, drawing to∣wards the Birth of that Mother-Branch; in such a Case, those last Comers must be look'd upon as Branches that commonly will always augment in Thickness, and consequently will become real Branches for wood, in the place where they are; for which reason, they must be Prun'd short; and as for those that draw towards the Extremity, they must be look'd upon as Fruit-Branches, which will thicken no more, Nature having directed her Course upon these last made.

66. Observation.

YOU must not in the least scruple the taking lower, even in old Trees, especially Pear, Apple and Apricock-Trees, certain Sides which, having been ill order'd, prove too long and thin: But I wou'd not, without an absolute necessity, have many thick Branches cut over a very weak one, shot from the same part, though never so well plac'd for the Figure; too many Inconveniences arising from it, by reason of the false Wood that commonly grows about that weak Branch; which not being capable of receiving all the Sap that flows towards it, and was destin'd for the Nourishment and Maintenance of those

superior Branches that shall have been cut, that Sap, being necessitated to come out, and consequently to force its way in an extraordinary manner, not finding any Issue ready made; that Sap, I say, being very abounding, flows out of it disorderly and furiously, like Water having overthrown a Dam that stop'd its Course. Now all those forc'd and violent Issuings produce those kind of Branches we have heretofore explain'd, giving them the name of False Wood, or Suckers, and are such as do not grow in the most common and ordinary Order Nature follows in the Production of new Branches; and therefore it is fit, as much as possible can be, to avoid falling into such Inconveniencies.

But if you chance sometimes to be necessitated to cut such thick Branches, the small Branch not performing here the Operation of a cleft Graff, which sometimes it does, but often fails, in such a Case you must resolve to make use of one of the Branches of False. Wood shot from it, and chuse that which is best plac'd, Pruning it according to the com∣mon Method, and by that means establish upon it the Figure of the Tree.

67. Observation.

ALLthough the Branches that, according to the Order of Nature, shoot from the Ex∣tremities of other Branches are commonly of good Wood, yet some of them happen sometimes not to be so, especially growing from the lower part of Branches, which, being originally of False Wood, have been cut very short, or shooting from a Stump; or else, when in the very Year they only begin to shoot a long while after the others of the same Tree, (this happens but seldom, unless in Virgoulé-Pears,) which you must not wonder at, and only Prune those kind of Branches that appear ill-condition'd, leaving them of a moderate length; for you must seldom allow much length to such Branches of False Wood.

CHAP. XXX.

Particular Remarks for the first Pruning yearly to be Perform'd in February, and March, upon Trees of Stone-Fruit, especially on Peach and Apricock-Trees, either Dwarf-Stan∣dards, or Wall-Trees.

I Shall not need to inlarge upon this Article, of the first Pruning; having already largely explain'd in General the Rules for all sorts of Pruning: I shall only ob∣serve, that the Fruit-Branches of the Trees above-mention'd, are but of a small Conti∣nuance, many of them Perishing the very first year in which they have produc'd Fruit, and even without it, their Blossoms having been spoil'd, either by Gum, Blasts, or Frosts in the Spring; in which Cases, they must be wholly taken away, unless they be grown considerably thick, or have shot some fine Branches fit to bear Fruit the following year; for in that Case, they may last two years, and even sometimes, though very seldom, three or four; provided they still shoot some good Branches, either on the Extremity of the last Pruning, or in their extent: But after that, they must only be look'd upon as worn-out Branches, and consequently of no use.

It is not so with the Fruit-Branches of Pear and Apple-Trees; and even Plumb-Trees, both the one and the other lasting pretty long, that is, much longer than those of Peach-Trees, by reason, that in their extent they shoot very good small ones, which regularly produce Fruit; until at last, according to the Nature of Fruit-Branches, they all perish intirely.

I may say here, without any Vanity, that in following my Method of Pruning Peach-Trees, you may expect to have commonly much finer Trees, more lasting, and without doubt much more Fruit, and even much finer than those who Prune another way, which is Infallible; provided the Weather be fair at the time of the Blossom, and the Gum spoil nothing about the Branches, and especially, that the Trees be Planted in a good Ground. The Curious are much to be pity'd, when their Gardens happen to be in a cold ill Ground, or when the Mould is worn, because that the Trees seldom produce any good new Roots there; and consequently, abundance of the old ones perish, Roots not being able to subsist without Action; which is the Reason that so much Gum grows both upon the Stem, and upon the Branches, and even upon the Foot, and in the Roots.

The Reason for which I say that my Method of Pruning greatly preserves and imbe∣lishes the Trees, is because it prescribes the being very careful in keeping pretty short all the thick Branches, &c. And as for the abundance of fine Fruits, it depends Infallibly on the other Caution I recommend, of preserving all the good Branches for Fruit, without taking away any, and the leaving no more Fruit upon them than they are able to nourish, in order to its being very Beautiful.

When in the Months of February and March, you design to perform the first Pruning upon Peach-Trees, and that, after having taken away all the Old dry Branches, or such, which through an extream weakness, are of no use (for you must begin by this, in order to see clearly and distinctly what is to be done) you find only two sorts of good Branches remaining; of which, the one (which are weak ones) are to bear Fruit the following years, the Buds being already form'd; and the others (which are the strong ones) are not commonly to produce any, not having any Buds upon them, but are to serve us for another use, which is very material.

These weak ones are to be preserv'd with Care, and even of a great length, by reason of the visible appearance of present Fruit, but without building any hopes upon most of them for the following year; Nature will afford us others, to supply the loss of those; but still care must be taken, that the length of those Branches be proportion'd to their strength; being also perswaded, that a Branch of an ordinary thickness is capable of nourishing a considerable part of the Fruit it seems dispos'd to bear: So that, at the first Pruning, there is no danger in venturing to leave much upon it, provided part be taken away at the se∣cond, if there be Reason to believe there is too much.

As to the strong ones, they must particularly be look'd upon in relation to the future, and therefore must be cut short, in prospect, that, according to the Order of Nature, they will produce others of two kinds; some thick ones for Wood, and many small ones for Fruit; which will certainly come to pass: But, above all, Care must be taken to pro∣vide for the Branches that are to fill up the room of those slender ones, which, for the time being, produce so good an Effect, but are, as it were, no longer to be look'd upon as living, since, after their having produc'd their Fruit, they must be taken away.

We have sufficiently explain'd the difference there is between weak Branches, and Sap∣less ones; therefore it will suffice to say, that no long Branches must be preserv'd, unless they be of a moderate thickness, and have at the same time Fruit-Buds ready form'd for the present Year. I commonly call none Buds but such as are double, with an Eye for Wood in the middle; and I value no others for Preserving, unless it be on Troy-Peaches, and ear∣ly Peaches.

Moreover, no Branch must be Prun'd short, unless it be, that, being incapable of bear∣ing Fruit in the present Year, their Strength or Vigour may promise other Branches for the following Year; or that the Tree having a vast quantity of Fruit-Branches, and very few for Wood, and all those very high, there may be reason to fear, that some of the lower parts, or the middle, may grow too thin for the following Years; in which Case, it is very proper to sacrifice some Buds; and to that End, shorten some of the finest and thickest among those that are over-burthen'd by them, and so make them, as we have said elsewhere, Demy-Branches for Wood, which is of very good use.

In the mean time we must observe that there are some very vigorous Peach-Trees, which commonly are hard to bear Fruit, upon which it is necessary, as well as upon some furious Pear-Trees, to leave Branches of a moderate thickness, long, though they have no Fruit-Buds at all. Such furious Peach-Trees are your Magdalens, some white Bastard-Peaches, Bourdins, Brugnons, or Latter Violets, &c. that is, when those Peach-Trees are young: Upon such it is necessary to leave some long Branches, though without any appearance of Fruit, upon the apparent certainty of their producing a great many other weak Branches for the following Year••; and though those Branches be pretty thick, and might be look'd upon as Branches for Wood, yet they are not cut short, because it is probable that in their Neighbourhood there may be other thicker that have been Prun'd for Wood, and that, according to the best Rules, many thick Branches must never be left very near one to another.

Those different ways of Cutting long or short, are the Cause that it cannot, and must not be said that a Peach-Tree is well Prun'd, unless every Branch; has one of those two Pro∣perties, either actually fit to bear Fruit in the present Year, or to produce fine Wood the Year following, in those places where it may be requir'd; and when these two Conditions meet, and are perfectly observ'd, we may say that a Peach-Tree is very well Prun'd.

Those kind of Regards must not only be had at the time of the first Pruning, but, yet particularly, at the time of the second and third, if perform'd; and likewise at the time of the Trimming of the Buds, and useless Branches.

The Mischief which attends Gum, to which every body knows Peach-Trees are common∣ly subject, and even much beyond all other Stone-Fruits, hinders us from having any cer∣tainty that a thick Branch, being Prun'd, will produce others on its Extremity; which is almost infallible in Pear, Plumb, and Apricock-Trees, &c. When Peach-Trees appear at∣tack'd with that Gum, and yet the Owners are willing to preserve them some Years longer, they must Prune them late, that is, about the time they begin to blossom and shoot, to be certain of preserving, at least, some good Eyes, and some good Blossoms: There can be no Certainty before that time.

I add farther, that when a Peach-Tree has produc'd no Branch for Wood, it must no longer be consider'd as a Tree to keep, from the time the Fruit has been gather'd; and a Successor must be provided.

I add besides, that if it happens that an old Peach-Tree, having been shorten'd, has produc'd several Branches, which happens but seldom, unless it be a Tree grown from a Stone, you must begin to Prune it upon those new Branches, in the self-same manner as a young Tree is Prun'd; excepting only, that the Branches must be left a little longer, for fear of the Gum.

It is almost impossible not to be very uneasie at the Pruning of Peach-Trees, either Dwarf-Standards, or Wall-Trees, by reason of an itching desire of preserving all the Buds that are ready form'd for the present Year, and of not depriving ones self of a present Good: But yet, unless you be a little hard-hearted for the present, in prospect of the future, you may assure your selves to see those kind of Trees perish by your own Fault, or, at least, be∣come of no use. 'Tis true, that in so doing, you may perhaps get abundance of Fruit for two or three Years; but it is as true, that after that, you must expect a very great Scarcity, and very ugly Trees.

Those Uneasinesses, or Conflicts, I have mention'd, are only undergone by skilful Gard'ners: Others are not so much as sensible of the Danger, and so are liable to no manner of Agitation. The chief Cause of Disquiet is, particularly, when a weak Branch, that had been left long for Fruit, is grown thick, contrary to the common Order of Vegeta∣tion; and that the thick one, which had been cut short, in order to shoot abundance of new ones, is, as it were, abandon'd, and hardly produces any thing. This Alteration ge∣nerally produces a great Disorder in a Tree; for those kind of Branches that are grown thick, have probably shot a great many Branches for Fruit, which occasions a very great and just Cause of Temptation and Desire of preserving them all: So that, unless the De∣sire of having a fine and lasting Tree opposes the Itch of preserving those Appearances of present Fruit, there is a great deal of danger of being overcome by the Temptation; and consequently, of making soon a very ugly Tree, as we have already instanc'd. Therefore it is very material to examine what is most proper to be done in such Conjunctures.

It is sometimes necessary to take the advantage of such a Disorder, to let the Tree shoot up, in order to cover the Top of a Wall, which may very well be allow'd of; and in such a Case, there will be no need of taking any of these terrible Resolutions: But some∣times there may be a great deal of danger in so doing; in which Case, there is a necessity of resolving to sacrifice part of those fine Appearances of Fruit, without any Mercy, and consequently, to shorten such Branches extreamly, in prospect, that in the following Years you shall be recompenc'd a hundred times for those Fruits which, as I may say, have been thus cruelly destroy'd. This Disorder happens but seldom, which is a Comfort; but yet, as it happens sometimes, I thought my self oblig'd to give my Opinion about it.

When Walls are very low, for Example, about six or seven Foot high, and yet People desire to have Peach-Trees against them, which, in such a Case, must be Planted at a great distance from one another; when, I say, along such low Walls Peach-Trees appear to be very vigorous, for the two first Years the thick Branches that are to fill up the Sides must be kept pretty long, because, that in Pruning of them short, they will only shoot False-Wood, or Suckers, and seldom or never produce any Fruit, you may allow them twice the length of what is allow'd to common Wall-Trees, and sometimes even thrice; that is, a Foot and a half, or somewhat more.

When a Wall-Tree is reasonably vigorous, it must of necessity be allow'd at least three Foot of Wall free, above the Pruning that is perform'd upon it in the Spring, for the placing of the new Shoots; otherwise the greatest part of the principal Branches should be of no use, growing over the Top; and there should be a necessity of Cutting them often during the Summer, lest the great Winds should break them: And, besides the Vexation of not enjoying the Benefit of the Vigour of ones Trees, those Branches thus cut, ever look ungainly upon a Wall-Tree, by the quantity of Furzes that appear at the Extremity of such a Tree.

CHAP. XXXI.

Particular Remarks upon the Second and Third Pruning of Stone-Fruit.

THese Second and Third Prunings are altogether new, and yet are altogether as ne∣cessary and material as the first, and must be perform'd about the middle of May only upon weak Branches: They were left long by the Winter-Pruning, in prospect of abundance of Fruit; but whereas they are subject to certain Circumstances we are going to examine, they made us bethink our selves of the necessity of a second Operation, and sometimes of a third.

As to the thick Branches, that have been Prun'd short in February or March, they have sufficiently undergone the Dispensation of the Knife, they require no more of it, their Function not being to produce any thing that wants Retrenching at this time; but, on the contrary, to shoot many precious Branches, that deserve to be preserv'd with much Care.

These last Prunings, we are now explaining, are of great use for the grand Pruning that is to be perform'd the following Year, in cleansing a Tree from all superfluous and half-dead Branches, which wou'd only create a Confusion: They Strengthen other Branches that will be of use in the Sequel, by affording them the Sap, which wou'd be wasted on those scurvy ones that can never be of any use, and must of Course be taken away the Winter following. It likewise contributes towards the Beauty and Goodness of the Fruit, and serves to keep a Tree equally well furnish'd; so that, by that means, seldom, or never, any Defects wou'd appear upon any of those Peach-Trees, unless they were persecuted by that cursed Gum.

These are the Consequences of those kind of Branches, upon which the above-mention'd Prunings are perform'd. I desire all Gard'ners to follow this Discussion exactly.

These Branches, which I have a particular regard for, in relation to Fruit, shall have per∣form'd one of these six things.

First, They may either have produc'd, almost in their whole Extent, a great deal of Fruit and fine Branches, or much Fruit and ugly Branches. By fine Branches here, I mean, such as are thick enough to prove Fruit-Branches the following Year, and in the mean time bear abundance of fine Leaves: And, on the contrary, I call those poor and ugly, that are short and slender, and are incapable of bearing Fruit, only producing small Leaves.

Secondly, Those Fruit-Branches may chance only to have born Fruit upon part of their Length; for Example, the fourth part, third, or half, &c. and to have shot either fine or ugly Branches every where, or in some part; and all this, perchance, towards the upper end, and sometimes towards the lower.

Thirdly, They may chance to have produc'd no Fruit, but abundance of fine Branches; or many altogether ugly and useless.

Fourthly, They may only have produc'd a single Branch on the Extremity, with abun∣dance of Fruit every where, or without any Fruit any where.

Fifthly, They may only have produc'd one single Fruit on the Extremity, with some Branches in part of their Extent.

Lastly, They may be kill'd with Gum or Cold in their whole Extent, or only towards the Extremity.

I have had the Experience of all these Cases several times, in all which I have held the following Method.

In the first part of the first Case, in which the Fruit-Branches shall have produc'd Fruit and fine Branches in the best part of their Extent, we may rejoice at the Abundance; for, without doubt, all will go well, since the Appearances are so fair as far as the Month of May: Some of the Fruit only must be taken away, where it lies so close, that we may have cause to believe that, in growing, they might obstruct each other; for that wou'd spoil it: And likewise, in case any Confusion be threaten'd by that Multitude of new Branches, some of the meanest, and worst plac'd, may be remov'd. It is always to be wish'd, that the Lot of being retrench'd may fall upon the farthest.

In the second Part of the first Case, in which the Branch has produc'd a great deal of Fruit, but no fine Branches; on the contrary, all weak and useless; the best part of the Fruit must be taken away, since it wou'd neither grow beautiful nor good; only some of that which looks best, and is best plac'd, may be preserv'd; that is, that which grows in

the lowest part of the Branch. At the same time the said Branch must be very much short∣en'd, to reduce it to the second or third Eye or Bud of the bottom, in order to strengthen some of the best Branches that are upon it, for the next Year.

In the second Case, in which the Fruit-Branch only produces Fruit upon part of its Length, if the Fruit be grown upon the lower part of it, the Branch must be preserv'd, and shorten'd close to that, among the new ones, which appears finest, and nearest to that Fruit; it is enough when there remains one or two passable good ones.

In case the Fruit be pretty abundant, and towards the upper Extremity, that having likewise pretty fine Branches, that Fruit must likewise be preserv'd, and all the useless Branches remov'd, in the manner abovesaid; only preserving one or two of those that ap∣pear the finest, whatever part they be in, especially being in the lower part, where we are always desirous of them; for, as to the Fruit, 'tis always well plac'd, where-ever it be, even at the end of the Branches; provided always, that in preserving one or two fine Branches on the Extremity of a Fruit-Branch that has been kept of a great length, you must resolve the following Year to retrench both the Mother and Daughter, or Daugh∣ters, otherwise one part wou'd grow too thin.

In the first part of the third Case, in which the Branch has really produc'd no Fruit, but, to make amends, has shot a great many fine new Branches; in such a Case, I say, it is fit, as much as can be, to preserve the best of those Branches, being careful of not let∣ting any of them grow stronger than the other, especially towards the Extremity, for such a Branch wou'd ruin all the lower; therefore such a Branch must be wholly taken away, and Pinch'd or broken within two or three Eyes, or Buds, as we have heretofore explain'd.

In the second Part of that third Case, in which the Fruit-Branch has neither been fortu∣nate in Fruit, nor in Wood of a favourable Growth, you must wholly shorten such a Branch, to a single one of those it has produc'd; and chuse the lowest, in hopes to strengthen it, to make it good for the next Year, or take it quite away, it not answering our Intentions.

In the first Part of the Fourth Case, in which the Fruit-Branch has only produc'd a single Branch on the Extremity, with abundance of Fruit every where, I am of Opinion that such a Branch shou'd be preserv'd, provided it does not incline to become a Branch for Wood, in which case it must be broken pretty short: So that, in case such a Branch be but moderately thick, it promises much for the following Year; and as for all the little dimi∣nutive Branches, that grow among the Fruit it bears, we Prune them, as we have declar'd in the Exposition of the second Case.

Therefore there is yet more reason to use all the little Branches we meet with here with∣out Fruit in the Extent of the Branch in debate in the same manner, being certain that, for the generality, they shoot no more, being all at a stand in the Month of June: So that all our Comfort for the following Year lies in the fine Fruit-Branch that offers it self here, on the Extremity of the Branch that has blossom'd to no purpose in all its Extent.

In the fifth Case, in which the Branch that was left long, to bear a great deal of Fruit, has yet been so unfortunate, or abus'd, as not to have retain'd above one or two on the Ex∣tremity of it, and yet has shot some Branches in part of its Extent.

Several particular Regards must be had in this Case: For Example, If the Tree, on the other hand, has but little Fruit, for that being one will be tempted, and that with rea∣son, to preserve that which is known to be good, in such a Case it will be proper not to meddle with such a Branch; or else, to observe whether the Tree has produc'd a great deal of Fruit in the main; in which Case, no great difficulty must be made of losing so little, and consequently, of Pruning such a Branch again short, in order to strengthen some other that appears pretty good, and is well plac'd; which we may stand in need of for the Beau∣ty of the Tree, and for the hopes of future Years.

It will likewise be proper to consider whether the Year be universally barren, which wou'd hinder the Operation I have been advising; or whether it be a doubtful Fruit, of which, it wou'd be necessary to know the kind, either to suppress, or multiply it, &c. In which Case, it will be fit to preserve this single Peach, or those two Peaches, that are re∣maining on the top of the Branch in question, though with some Regret, out of a just fear of a future Deformity in that Tree.

For, in fine, the principal thing to be done in the Management of Peach-Trees, is, to prefer the Beauty of the whole Tree, in hopes of a future Abundance; I say, to prefer the Beauty of that Tree to a small quantity of Fruit, though really present.

In fine, In the sixth Case, in which the Branches are destroy'd by Gum, or Cold, it is neither difficult to give a good Advice, or to take it; for you must wholly take away all that is dead, and consequently useless, and disagreeable to Sight, in any part whatever, particularly on the Extremity.

This is my Method for the Second Pruning. If any thing has hinder'd the performing of it about the middle of May, it may be done until the middle of June; so that even a Third may be perform'd at that time, when on the Second of the middle of May, it has been thought fit to venture still some Lengths of Branches, and some Fruits.

It is likewise an Effect of the Second Pruning, to cut all the small, sapless Branches, that grow within the compass of the sine one, which has been produc'd that very Year; as also, to shorten, in September, the Branches of Peach-Trees that are weak, and at a stand.

I add, that the performing of such an Operation is very material, but that unfortunate∣ly it is hardly practis'd at all, or, at least, so seldom, either out of Laziness, or for want of time; the Gardner having, perhaps, too great a number of Trees, and other Works, that overwhelm him.

CHAP. XXXII.

Of the different Manners of Ordering a Peach-Tree in the Summer-time.

I Observe, among Gard'ners, three different Methods of Ordering all manner of Peach-Trees in the Summer, in relation to the young Branches they produce. The First tear or pull off indifferently all those that grow before and behind, and leave but few others: Those seem to me extreamly to blame, and unworthy the Profession they follow.

The Second cut all those Branches within three or four Eyes, or Buds, and by that means occasion abundance of Fruz, among which there sometimes grows a little Fruit, but that is pretty rare: Besides that, this Method renders the Trees ugly, and disagreeable; and therefore I disapprove it.

Lastly, The Third preserve in the Summer all the good Branches, and Pallisado them neatly; tarrying to chuse the best until the Season of Pruning: Those, in my Opinion, are in the right, and I imitate them as much as I can.

CHAP. XXXIII.

Of the Triming of superfluous needless Buds and Sprigs.

WHereas Pruning only serves barely to shorten, or wholly to take away some old Branches, that, either by their length, situation, or number, annoy a Tree; so this Triming or Picking, is only to destroy, and entirely remove young Branches of the Year, either thick, or small, growing improperly, and capable of causing a Confusion, or preju∣dicing either the whole Tree, or only the Branch on which they are grown.

The Time of Pruning, as we have declar'd, is from November, to the End of March; which Pruning must be perform'd regularly every Year; whereas the Time of the Triming is commonly about May and June, and sometimes July and August, and sometimes it is not done at all; but when there is Cause for it, it must not be neglected; and gene∣rally it cannot be done too soon, to prevent the Growth of those useless Shoots, and con∣sequently, the wasting a great deal of Sap unprofitably, which might be employ'd to better Uses: So that when it has been neglected, or not perform'd soon enough, it must be done late, if possible, since it is better to do a necessary thing late than never.

It is not easie to set down precisely what Branches must be so Prun'd, or Trim'd, par∣ticularly to satisfie those, among the Curious, who know but little, and are only Begin∣ners: But a skilful Gard'ner, who, by the Rules heretofore establish'd, has form'd to him∣self the Idea of a fine Tree, and consequently must know partly what Branches are re∣quir'd, as well for the Beauty of the Figure, as for Fruit; such a Gard'ner, I say, must needs, at first sight, know those Branches that are no ways answerable to the Idea he has conceiv'd, and consequently take them away at their very Birth, or at least from the Mo∣ment he perceives them, especially before the End of Summer; that is, before the Trees have made an end of shooting, or that such Branches are grown thick; otherwise they must remain until the time of Pruning: But, generally speaking, I may say, that this Triming or

Picking, is to retrench or take off all ill-plac'd Branches shooting from any part whatever, whether good or bad: especially such as cause a Confusion, without being proper either for Wood, or Fruit. The Knowledge of the Order in which the Branches grow, whe∣ther good or ill, which we have clearly explain'd at the beginning of this Treatise, is ab∣solutely necessary for this.

Pear-Trees must particularly be look'd to, from the very Beginning of April, to the End, that if, from a slanting Cut, which was to produce a Branch for Wood outwardly, there should grow a thick one inwardly, it may be taken away immediately, in Conside∣ration of the two Reasons which ordain Trimming.

It is likewise necessary to take away the Branches which hinder others that are better plac'd, and should be more useful, from receiving a due Nourishment; For Example, Take away high Branches, to favour low ones; by which means they would grow con∣siderable; whereas without such a help, they would remain uprofitable, and the Tree would suffer, both as to the Figure, and the Fruit we expect from it.

This Trimming or Pruning, is perform'd upon young Trees, as well as old ones; and therefore, when a young Tree at once shoots high and low Branches, with a great Inter∣val or space between them, it is proper to take away the highest, when the lowest are design'd to be preserv'd; or else the lowest, when the others deserve it better: Which is not only to be done by way of Trimming, but also by the real way of Pruning, that is, with the Pruning-Knife, when the bare Trimming or Nipping is not sufficient.

If, upon any Tree whatever, one and the same Eye produces two or three Branches, some of them must be taken away by way of Nipping off, to better the Condition of the others, as well as to avoid Confusion.

So that upon a weak Branch, which, from one Eye or Bud, shoots, for instance, two or three, and all probably weak, I will only preserve one, chusing that which appears to be the best, that is, the thickest.

But if, on the contrary, a very vigorous Branch shoots three from one and the same Eye, and that the middlemost appears too strong, and the worst plac'd, I shall, without doubt, take it away, to strengthen the two others a little; which may afterwards, the one on one side, and the other on the other, prove very serviceable to the Tree.

So upon very vigorous Trees, it is necessary, at the Nipping off or Trimming, to take away some of the strongest Branches, always preserving such as are somewhat less, provided they seem to be good; and especially, when the thick Branch that has been Prun'd shoots many, whence Confusion proceeds, the highest must be taken away, taking Care however not to dis∣burthen those kind of Trees too much, which, by reason of their great Vigour, hardly produce any other but thick Branches; whereas, on the contrary, upon Trees that have not much Vigour, all the slenderest and poorest must be taken off, in order to strengthen those that appear stronger, and yet are not so strong as they should be.

From thence it is easie to conclude, that some Trees may as well be prejudic'd by Nip∣ping off of them too much, as others by not being Nipp'd off enough: The Gard'ner's Pru∣dence must distinguish between those whose great Vigour requires one kind of Nipping off, or Trimming, and those whose Weakness requires another.

I will say by the by, that if it be judg'd that many Cyons may be requir'd to Graff Scutcheon-wise, it will be fit to be somewhat more cautious in the Nipping off of vigorous Trees, which may furnish Graffs; still taking Care that it may not prejudice the Fruit of the following Year.

It happens pretty often, that for want of having Nipp'd off, or Pallisado'd prudently, we see that, in the Confusion of Branches, some long slender ones shoot out; which must be carefully taken away at the Season of Pruning, or, at least, shorten'd to an Eye or Bud, being commonly naught.

It likewise commonly happens, that the Branch of a Peach-Tree shoots others in the very Summer, which has produc'd it, in which Case it must be examin'd and (if very poor) Nipp'd off, or taken away, in any part whatever: But if of a good thickness, having dou∣ble Eyes, or Buds, so as to be fit to make a Fruit-Branch, it must be carefully preserv'd, though only grown in July. And if the lower part of such a Branch should produce one of a reasonable thickness, so as to be proper for a Branch for Wood, it must be look'd upon as a very good Omen for the Beauty and Preservation of the Tree: But if, on the contrary, the upper part of such a Branch should shoot any which should grow so thick as to be only fit for a Branch for Wood, it must be taken away, as being in a place where we have no occasion for a Branch for Wood; besides, it would prejudice the Mother that produc'd it.

It is not much to be question'd, but that, as in Pruning a Vine, while in Sap, we visibly lose a great deal of Sap through the part so Prun'd, so in Fruit-Trees, some of the Sap

evaporates, or is wasted through the place that is cut at the time of Shooting, which is in the Summer.

It is likewise observ'd in the Pruning of Melons, that a Branch, being Prun'd, produces more new ones than that which was left Unprun'd; and therefore I advise the Pruning of too vigorous Trees late: For it is observable in Peach-Trees, that a thick, young Branch, having been cut in the Summer-time, seldom shoots afterwards, or, at least, very inconsi∣derably, insomuch that the end of it blackens and dies; the Consequence of which is, that the neighbouring Branches thereby commonly grow the more vigorous. But, indeed, neither this Nipping off, nor the Pinching, or Breaking, do waste Sap at this rate; and are so far from being dangerous Operations to be perform'd in the Summer, as is the Pru∣ning with a Knife, that they are very useful, and often very necessary.

Though this Nipping off properly relates only to the removing of Buds, it may like∣wise be understood for the Plucking off of Fruit, especially Stone-Fruit, when there is too much in one place; this Plucking off being perform'd at the same time with the Nipping off: Which Matter I treat of at large in another place, and so shall say no more of it here.

When any Branch (which seem'd to be good at the time of Pruning it, and therefore was preserv'd) grows poor, for want of a good Supply of new Sap, which happens some∣times by an inward Disorder, which could not be prevented; in such a Case, there is no other Remedy, than the taking away of such a Branch, as soon as perceiv'd. Sometimes al∣so some useless Branches may have been left by Negligence, or want of Application; which must likewise be remov'd, as soon as observ'd: And supposing some fine Fruit may be left on the Extremity of a Branch that has produc'd no new Wood, which is not com∣mon, in that Case the Branch must not be taken off until the Fruit be gather'd; after which, it must be remov'd, since it could never be good for any thing.

CHAP. XXXIV.

Particular Remarks for another material Operation, to be per∣form'd in the Summer upon some Trees, which is called Pinch∣ing, or Breaking.

PInching, in relation to Gard'ning, is, to break designedly a tender Sprig of any Plant whatever, and that without the help of any Instrument, only using the Nails of two Fingers. This way of Breaking has ever been practis'd upon the Shoots of Melons, Cowcumbers, &c. but I do not know that ever it was practis'd upon any Fruit-Trees; yet I have thought ••it to make use of it, though only upon four kind of Fruit-Trees, viz. Pear, Peach, Fig, and Orange-Trees; and I shall only treat here of what relates to the thick new Branches of vigorous Peach-Trees, and the thick new Branches shooting from slit Graffs made upon old Pear-Trees, being still in a pretty good Case: I will treat in other places of what relates to the Pinching of Orange and Fig-Trees, and even of Strawberry-Plants, and Raddishes run up to Seed, &c.

The Reason which made me imagine this way of Pinching these two sorts of Trees, and that makes me use it pretty often, is, that it being most certain that Fruit seldom grows upon thick Branches, and commonly upon the weak ones, I thought, if it were possible to order Matters so, that the Sap, which is wholly employ'd in producing but one thick Branch, which proves either useless, or cumbersom; I say, if it could be order'd so, that this Sap might be so divided as to produce several Branches, there is no Question to be made, but in the Quantity there would be some weak ones, or perhaps many, which consequently would be proper to bear Fruit instead of that, and, as we have already said, the thick Branch would have produc'd no good Effect.

I have found the thing possible, and that it is requir'd, not only in May, but sometimes in June and July, to break the thick new Shoots of those kind of Trees, while yet tender, and as easie to break as Glass; which is most true.

This Operation is founded upon a Reason which I have explain'd in my Reflections, and therefore is not necessary here.

Having then, at the time heretofore mention'd, broken some of those thick new Shoots within two or three Eyes, or Buds, I have often obtain'd what I desir'd by it, that is, as many Branches as I had left Eyes; and, indeed, a vigorous Tree cannot have too many,

provided they be good, and well plac'd. Among the Branches proceeding from such Pinching, if I may use the Expression, commonly some have prov'd weak, and those have born Fruit; some have prov'd pretty strong, and have been Branches for Wood: If the Sap, which produc'd such thick Branches, and form'd them with a lively, vigorous Action, met in its way an Obstacle, to stop it short in the heighth of its Action, and con∣sequently hindring it from following its Course in continuing to rise, as it would do, not being hinder'd; in such a Case, this Sap, which, in the mean time, cannot cease acting, being forc'd to get out one way or other, would burst out by as many Cranies, or Over∣tures, as it would find near that place where it was stop'd; or, upon necessity, would make some of it self.

But it must be noted, that this Pinching is seldom to be practis'd upon any but the thick Branches of the Top, which would remain useless by their Situation, and yet would consume abundance of good Sap superfluously; and therefore it ought to be very seldom us'd upon the thick Branches of the lower part, it being always very necessary to pre∣serve them until the Winter-Pruning, in order to their shooting some others the following Year, sit to fill such places as naturally, and for the most part, are but too subject to be thin.

It is likewise to be observ'd, that this Pinching, or Breaking off, must never be perform'd upon weak Branches; which, having no more Sap than they want, to be good, would only produce slender, Sapless ones in that place, where the small Portion of Sap which Na∣ture allows them should be divided.

And therefore nothing must be broken upon such Trees as produce but too many of those weak Branches, and few of those good thick ones: There are some of this Character to be found among all kind of Peach-Trees.

The best time for Pinching, particularly in cold Climes, like ours of Paris, and the Neighbourhood of it, as we have already said, is, at the End of May, and the Beginning of June; and when necessary to be perform'd a second time, the time of the Solstice, or longest Days of the Year, is admirable for it, as well as to Water some Trees in a dry Soil, when Rain is wanting; at which time there is a wonderful re-doubling of Action in the Roots, and consequently in the Branches; that being, indeed, the time of the greatest Effort of all the Spring.

We have already observ'd, that the first Fury of Stone-Fruits begins to appear at the Full-Moon of April, which commonly falls out in May; and we are going to see another kind of Fury at the First Quarter of the Moon of the said Month of May; both which times are good for Pinching: And, indeed, we observe, that all the Branches of every Tree do not begin to shoot vigorously at the same time; so that what has not been Pinch'd or broken off at the first Season, may be done at the second.

I have said, that the best time to Pinch the thick new Branches of Peach-Trees, was, at the time they are easie to break at the least pull, without being oblig'd to use a Knife to shorten them: From thence it is easie to judge, that I have found it dangerous to use In∣struments to cut such Branches, which is true; for, as I have said heretofore, the Extre∣mity or End of such Branches so cut, is apt to blacken and die, it certainly not producing the same Effect with that which proceeds from the Action of Pinching. The same thing may be said of the thick, tender Branches, proceeding from the Graff's of Pear-Trees, made upon a thick, vigorous Stock; however, Experience teaches us, that the Knife is not so dangerous upon these, as upon those of Peach-Trees.

CHAP. XXXV.

Of what is to be done to some Trees, being extraordinarily vigorous, not Bearing of Fruit.

THere still remains to see what is to be done in relation to some Trees being extraor∣dinary vigorous, to that degree, that they remain sometimes many Years, only pro∣ducing much Wood, and little Fruit, and pretty often none at all, as most Pear and Apple-Trees are, being Graffed upon free Stocks; and particularly, how to preserve a Tree pro∣ducing only small Shoots, and most of them of false Wood, or which yearly shews its In∣firmity at the end of iss Branches, and by the colour of its Leaves.

As to the very vigorous Tree, particularly in question here, many People propose, as soveraign and infallible, abundance of Expedients and Remedies, which I have tried a long while, with great Application; yet, upon my Word, without the least Success.

To bore a Hole through the Stem of a Tree, and put a Peg of dry Oak into it; to split one of the main Roots, and put a Stone into it; to Prune at the time of the Declinings of the Moon, &c. are wretched Secrets of good old People, infatuated with old Maxims; People who have but little Skill in Vegetation, and are easily satisfy'd.

For my part, besides my being persuaded by Experience, that my manner of Pruning often prevents the Difficulty now in question, I have moreover, in case of great Obstina∣cy, recourse to what I have said elsewhere, it being really the best thing that can be done; which is, that, as constantly the Fruit on Trees, is only an Effect, or, at least, a Mark of a certain moderate Weakness, it is necessary, without minding a thousand Tri∣fles, to go to the Source of the Vigour of the Tree, that is, to the Roots, uncovering half of them, and cutting off one, two, or three of the thickest on that side, and consequently the most active; insomuch that the least part of them may not remain, to be capable of acting, or producing the least Thread of a capilar Root: The Roots of the other Moity, (for I suppose there may be good ones; otherwise, so many must not be taken away from the Side uncovered;) the Roots, I say, of the other Moity, left untouch'd, will be sufficient to nourish the whole Tree.

This Remedy is infallible to prevent such Trees from being, as it were, resty to our Cares and Industry, and will soon make them produce Fruit; by reason that this will put a stop to the Production of the Sap, so that it shall not be so abounding as before, one, two, or three of the chief Workers being remov'd; and thus the weak Branches will only re∣ceive a moderate Nourishment, and the Buds begun, instead of extending, will grow round, and consequently turn to Fruit-Buds, will Blossom, and finally yield what is desired of them.

Philosophers may Criticise upon, and explain this as they please; but still it is most cer∣tain, that the thing happens as I have said.

To Root up such Trees, and re-plant them immediately, with the main part of their Roots and Branches, either in the same place, or in another, as some Authors propose it, is sometimes an effectual Remedy; but it seems to me somewhat too violent, since some∣times it threatens Death, and often makes an ugly Tree, which, in my Opinion, is as great a Defect as the other; for which reason I use it but seldom, though sometimes I do.

CHAP. XXXVI.

Of the Conduct, or Culture of Fig-Trees.

AFter having said in another place, and that after a long Experience, that a ripe Fig, according to my Pallat, is the best of all the Fruits growing upon Trees, that hi∣therto I have met with; and, indeed, is look'd upon as being the most delicious, by all judicious Persons; I thought my self oblig'd, in this general Treatise of the Culture of Fruits, to make a particular one for the Conduct of this.

Before I enter upon this matter, I cannot forbear expressing my Astonishment, con∣sidering that notwithstanding the singular Esteem most People have for good Figs, it was a general Custom in this Country to have but a very small quantity of them in each Garden, not exceeding two or three at most, and even those commonly abandon'd in some inner Yard, expos'd to all manner of ill Treatment, without the least Culture. Indeed, in warmer Climates they are better, and more honourably treated; there are always abundance of them, not only in Gardens, and under the shelter of a House, but particularly in Vine-yards, in Hedges, and in the open Fields; and they make a considerable Trade of those that are preserv'd, and dry'd, which I do not mention here.

I am sensible, that the difficulty of preserving Fig-Trees from the great Colds of the Winter, is the chief Reason for which we have so few of them in our Climates; but yet, considering the Consequence and Merit of their Fruit, in my Opinion, People should have made it their Study, a little more than they have done, to enjoy, to a higher degree, that rich Present of Nature.

It is not necessary to repeat here what I have said at large in the Treatise of the Choice and Proportion of Fruits, touching the Diversity of the Kinds of Figs, nor of my prefer∣ring the white ones, whether long, or round, for this Country, to all the others: Neither will I repeat what I have said, as to the Situation which is most proper for them.

I shall only relate the manner of my Cultivating of them; and especially, how that, notwithstanding the ill Custom, which made us be satisfy'd with a few of them, I have

apply'd my self to the breeding of many; and that not only by the common Way of Planting them in Espaliers, or against Walls, but also in an extraordinary manner, that is, in Cases, which is both pretty new, pleasant and useful; which, if I may be allow'd to introduce a new Expression, may be call'd a Figuerie, in imitation of Orangeries.

The Delight His Majesty takes in that Fruit, and the danger of Dying, to which all Fig-Trees are expos'd in the open Ground, in great Frosts, or, at least, of bearing no Fruit that Year, have been two powerful Motives for me, who am honour'd with the Place of Director of all the Fruit and Kitchen-Gardens belonging to the Royal Family, to in∣duce me to bethink my self of the Means of Certainly having a great many Figs every Year.

In the performance of which, I have met with very little difficulty; for, in the first place, the common Mould of every Garden, mix'd with an equal quantity of Soil or small Dung, turn'd to Mould, is extraordinary good for it. Secondly, The Roots of Fig-Trees, instead of being hard and thick, like those of other Fruit-Trees, either Stone, or Kernel, on the contrary, remain soft and flexible, and commonly slender, and so are easily order'd in Cases, and even with more case than those of Orange-Trees, which thrive so well in them. Thirdly, These kind of Trees naturally produce abundance of Roots; so that it is very ca∣sie for them to live fatly and vigorously in a small quantity or space of Ground, provided Moisture be not wanting. Besides, the universal Approbation I have met with in this Undertaking, and the Imitation that has follow'd it by many of the Curious, have en∣courag'd me to make a considerable progress in this Figuerie, or Fig-Garden; and that which has most induc'd me to proceed in it, is, that the Fruit ripens a great deal sooner here than in the main Ground, and is somewhat better, and yellower, the Earth which is easily heated in the Cases, producing the first good Effect, and the open Air the two others.

To which I might add, the pleasure of seeing in this Country abundance of Fig-Trees in the open Air, (which seem'd to be altogether reserv'd for hot Countries,) and that of being, in the Summer, in the middle of a Wood, abounding with Figs; there to chuse and gather the sinest and ripest, without any trouble.

Therefore I have bred abundance of Fig-Trees in Cases, having found that, besides the Advantages above related, there was yet another which is very considerable; and that is, that, to preserve them securely, and with Ease, in the Winter, an ordinary Covering to keep off the great Frost is sufficient, that Covering or Shelter not being near so considerable as those for Orange-Trees and Jessemins, these both stripping or casting their Leaves at the least Cold, by which they are almost utterly spoil'd; every body knowing, that a Fall of Leaves, proceeding from the Rigour of Cold, or too much Moisture, denotes, in those Trees, at least, a great Infirmity in the Branches so stripp'd, insomuch that it is almost impossible to recover them; whereas we have no Leaves to preserve on our Fig-Trees, it is only Wood, I mean Branches, of which the Wood is pretty course, though extreamly Pithy, or Sappy; insomuch, that it resists the Cold much better than Orange-Trees, it being certain that this Wood, which of it self is pretty tender, notwithstanding, dries up at the usual Fall of the Leaves, and consequently grows hard; the reason of which is, that the Roots of Fig-Trees ceasing to act within, from the time the Leaves begin to fall on the out-side, the Wood no longer receiving any new Sap, ceases to fear the Rigour of the Sea∣son; whereas the Wood of the Orange-Trees and Jessamins, by the perpetual Operation of their Roots, remains as tender in the Winter as it is all the rest of the Year: Which is the reason that, as the Sap continually rises, particularly for the Nourishment of those Leaves that remain upon the Branches, as well as for the Nourishment of the Branches themselves; that Sap, at that time, as it were, keeps both the one and the other so sen∣sible to Frost and Moisture, that thereby they often fall into those great Disorders, known by every body, which are almost the greatest they are liable to.

It being then granted, that, for the preservation of our Fig-Trees, it is sufficient that the great Frost should not light directly upon their Branches, it follows from thence, that it is sufficient for the Conservatory to be reasonably close, as well at the top, as at the Doors and Windows; insomuch that the Ground may have been pretty well frozen in the Cases, and yet the Fig-Tree receive no prejudice by it: So that a moderate low Cellar, or a Sta∣ble, or a Common-Hall, which would be so pernicious to Orange-Trees and Jessemins, may not be amiss for our Fig-Trees; not but if that place were very moist, it might harm them: As also a Cas'd Fig-Tree, remaining in the Winter without a Covering, would be much more endanger'd than another in the main Ground; for a thick Frost would kill the Roots, as well as the Head; whereas a Fig-Tree, planted in open Ground, would, at least, be preserv'd towards the Roots.

The Time of putting Fig-Trees in the Conservatories, is the Month of November; that is, they must be plac'd there as soon as the thick or great Frosts are coming on, there to re|

without wanting the least Culture, or any Care, besides the keeping of the place as close as can be, and that only during the great Colds; for, excepting that time, they need not be kept so close.

Lastly, They may be taken out again about the middle of March, and sometimes at the very beginning, the Weather being very fair, and the Seasons of great Frosts appear∣ing, in some manner, past: There is no need of staying, till there is nothing at all to fear, for the new Figs; for then there would be a necessity of staying until the end of April; it happening pretty often, that, until that time, there are certain Frosts, which blacken and kill them, though reasonably thick. The reason which obliges to take them out sooner, is, that it is necessary Fig-Trees should immediately enjoy the Rays of the Sun, and some soft Showers of March and April, in order to be able to shoot their first Fruit with success, to the end, above all things, that those Fruits may insensibly be us'd to the open Air; which must make them grow, and ripen betimes; it being most certain, that the Figs which grow under Covert, coming into the open Air, are apt to blacken, and so perish, even without any Frost, or considerable Cold; a North-East Wind, or excessive Heat, in the first Days of their coming out, destroying them without Redemption: Whereas those Figs that have been a little enur'd to the Air, have harden'd themselves so, as to be able to resist, notwithstanding the Intemperature of the Season.

In taking the Fig-Trees out of the Conservatory, at the time prefix'd, there are only two things to be done: The first is, to put them immediately along, and as close as can be to some good Walls, expos'd to the South or East; and there leave them, until the Full-Moon of April be past, which is about the beginning of May. This situation is ve∣ry necessary for them, to enjoy the Aspect of the Father of Vegetation, and be soak'd by the Rains of the Spring, as well as to find some Shelter against the Morning-Frosts of the Remains of Winter, which are those of March and April; because that, whereas this wonderful Fruit shoots out at that time, ready form'd, from the Body of the Branch; pre∣senting it self thus, all on the sudden, without the help of any Covering, or being accom∣pany'd with Blossoms, or Leaves, it must needs be very tender in the first Days of its Birth; and therefore such Frosts, which are very common and frequent at those times, falling then upon them, would prove very dangerous, or rather mortal; insomuch that, though this Shelter be favourable to Fig-Trees, both to such that are planted in the Ground, as well as to those that are in Cases, yet, notwithstanding, it is necessary to cover them with Sheets, or Straw, or long dry Dung, or Peas-Cods, when-ever they seem to be threaten'd by some Frost: The cold North-West Winds, North, and North-East, or some Ha••••, or melted Snow, seldom fail to occasion it in the Night, after having commonly fore-told it the Day before: Woe to the Gard'ner who neglects, or does not improve the Signal of such an ill Omen.

The second thing that is to be done, after having remov'd Fig-Trees out of the Conser∣vatory, and having thus plac'd them under shelter, is, (to use the Phrase of Gard'ners) to give them a good Wetting in every Case; which is, one good substantial Wate∣ring; insomuch that all the Moat may be soak'd by it; and there shall hardly need any more Watering, until, with some Leaves, the Fruit begins to appear all together, and even a little thick, which is about the middle of April; the Spring-Rains will supply other Waterings, but this first Watering is absolutely necessary, to soak the Ground a-new, which, after four or five Months Confinement, was grown quite dry; otherwise the Roots, at the coming in of the hot Weather, should not be capable, for want of Moisture, to renew their Action; and consequently, there should be no good Motion of Vegetation, either to nourish and thicken that new Fruit the sooner, or to afford us the sooner Leaves, and new Wood; with a Certainty, that the sooner Fig-Trees shoot in the Spring, the sooner we shall have the second Figs of Autumn. I will take notice by the by here, that the first Figs grow independently from the Action of the Roots, just as the Blossoms of other Fruit-Trees open; and produce their first Buds independently, from the Action of their Roots.

Lastly, The Cold, that is the great Enemy of those Figs, being gone, which happens commonly about the middle of May, the Cases must be remov'd from that Shelter, and put somewhat at large, to be in the open Air, especially in some little Garden, well sur∣rounded with good Walls; they may be dispos'd so, as to border, or form Allies on both sides, or else a little green Wood, as I do, when there are enough for it; which is that I call, and ought to be call'd, a Figuerie, or Fig-Garden.

As soon as these Cases are thus dispos'd of, they must be allow'd another good Watering, the same to be continu'd once a Week, until the end of May; after which, they must be Water'd, at least, twice a Week; and lastly, towards the middle of June, they must re∣ceive great and frequent Waterings, almost once a Day.

But, before I come to this, in order to gain Time, and to get with ease a great many Fig-Trees, for the Establishment and Maintenance of my Fig-Garden, I begin by making, towards the middle of March, an ordinary Bed, or Colich, of good Dung, of about three Foot high, in proportion to four or five Foot in Breadth, and as much in Length as my Oc∣casion requires: I let the great Heat of it pass, which commonly lasts five or six Days; after which, having provided Earthen Pots about five or six Inches Diameter, or small Cases about seven or eight: I fill those Pots, or Cases, with the Mould of the Garden, mix'd, as I have said, with an equal quantity of Soil or small, old, consummated Dung, or with nothing else; that Soil being very good for the first Multiplication of Roots, but would not be so good for the other Casings. Care must be taken to press that Earth very close in∣to the bottom of the Pot, as well as in the bottom of the Case; it will suffice to have two or three Inches loose on the top.

After this, I take small Fig-Trees, altogether Rooted, and after having extreamly shor∣ten'd all their Roots, I put them, about three or four Inehes deep, into the said Pots, or Cases, allowing each but about four or five Inches Stem: (Fig-Trees in Cases cannot be too short body'd:) Afterwards I put the said Pots, or Cases, up to the Middle in the aforesaid Bed. A considerable part of those Fig-Trees, so Planted, commonly take, and produce, that very Year, some pretty fine Shoots, and in a pretty good number; provided, as is absolutely necessary, they be well Water'd during the Summer, and that the Bed has been heated twice or thrice on the sides, to keep it always reasonably hot.

When I make use of Pots, I take out of the Pots, that very Summer, or, at least, in Autumn, or the following Spring, those little Fig-Trees that have shot well in those Pots, to put them together, with the Mote into Cases, of about seven or eight Inches, fill'd up with the prepar'd Earth; which, above all, as I have already said, must have been press'd close into the bottom, to hinder that Mote, and the new Roots that shall grow, from descending too soon, and too easily, into that Bottom; and to do it yet more effectually, in Casing of them, I observe the same Method as in Casing of Orange-Trees, excepting only Rubbish, and pieces of old and dry Plaister, which are no wise necessary here; that is, I Plant these Fig-Trees in such a man∣ner, that the Superficies of the Mote, may exceed the Edge of the Case about two or three Inches; and, with Douves put on the sides, I keep in the Earth, and the Water of the Waterings, so that none of it can be wasted; the weight of the Cases, and especially the frequent Waterings, together with the moving or transporting of the Fig-Trees so Cased sinking the Surface but too soon.

Great Care being taken to Water those young Fig-Trees, in those little Cases, they be∣gin pretty often to produce Fruit in them the very Year of their being Cas'd; at least, they are in a Condition to produce some the following Years. They must be kept two Years in those kind of little Cases, in order to be put next into larger, of about thirteen or fourteen Inches in the in-side; in order to which, two thirds of the Mote, must of necessity be taken away, Planting them especially, as I have already said, a little high, and pressing the Ground, as close as can be, into the Bottom: Which things must all be done of necessity, at every Removal out of the Cases.

They are to remain in these, until there be a necessity of changing them a-new: which must be done as soon as the Fig-Trees are observ'd to shoot no more thick Wood, which commonly happens at the end of the third or fourth Year after their being Cas'd: At which time they must be taken out of those Chests, and, after having perform'd the Ope∣rations heretofore explain'd, put again either into the same Cases, if, after having serv'd three or four Years, they are still good enough; which happens but seldom, the great Waterings rotting many of them; or into other new Cases of the same Size.

Those Fig-Trees must be left three or four Years longer in those kind of Cases, being about thirteen or fourteen Inches in the in-side; and afterwards, as soon as it is observable, by the Marks above explain'd, that there is a necessity of changing them, the same Me∣thod as before must be us'd, to put them into other Cases of seventeen or eighteen Inches; in which they must likewise be preserv'd for the space of three or four Years; at the end of which, they must be remov'd again, for the fourth time, in the manner aforesaid, either into the same Cases, or into others of the same Size.

The difficulty of Transportation commonly hinders me, after the wearing out of these second Cases of eighteen Inches, from venturing to put them into larger; which, not∣withstanding, would be very proper for them, being about twenty one or twenty two Inches, which, however, should be the last I would remove them into, unless I had very great Conveniencies, both for the Transporting of them, and for the Laying of them up.

And whereas, at length, those Cased Fig-Trees would grow to such a degree of largeness and weight, as would require too many Machines to move them, and even too great a quantity of Water to give them due Waterings, I abandon them, after having Cul∣tivated them for the space of fifteen or twenty Years; and take no farther Care of them, than to Plant them, either into our own Gardens, or in some of our Friends; for which they are yet good enough, provided Care be taken to cut off a considerable part of their Wood, and especially the main part of their Roots; or else, with a great deal of Regret, I resolve to burn them. But, in the mean time, in order to have my Conservatory, and my Fig-Garden, always equally fill'd, I yearly rear up new ones, in the manner aforesaid; which serve to fill up the room of the old ones I have been oblig'd to part with.

The best of it is, that the Breeding of them is easie: First, Because the Feet of the Fig-Trees that are Planted in the main Ground shoot abundance of Rooted Suckers. Secondly, Be∣cause it is very easie to lay Branches into the Ground, round about every old Foot, in or∣der to their taking Root. And Finally, because some may be bred by means of bended Layers, plac'd a little in the Shade, it is good to make a little Gash in those towards the Extremity, though many succeed without it.

Thus there are abundance of Means, and all very easie, in order to make a pretty good Provision of small young Fig-Trees: Wo to that Gard'ner who does not do it, and does not use his utmost Skill to multiply so good a Tree; trying immediately, whenever he is oblig'd to cut some Fig-Branches, to make those Layers take Root; at he may do, pro∣vided it has a little Wood of two Years standing; because that those cut Branches that are but of a Years standing, are much apter to rot, than to take Root.

The greatest Inconveniency attending Cases, is that which I have mention'd hereto∣fore; which is, that, during the Months of June, July, August, and September, there is an indispensible necessity of Watering them largely every Day, insomuch that the Wa∣ter may penetrate through the bottom of the Case; at least, without fail, they must be Water'd so every other Day, unless it Rains very hard; not that the Water of Rains often penetrates the Body of the Mote; but, because while it Rains, there is no Sun-shine ca∣pable of penetrating through the Case, to dry up the Roots; which is the only Reason that may stop the Continuation of Watering.

Neither must small Rains be minded, they are of no use to Fig-Trees; on the contrary, often prejudice them, by persuading the Gard'ner they are sufficient to supply the want of Watering, which they are not; the broad Leaves of Fig-Trees hindering the Earth (which lies very close in the Case, and is very hard by an Infinity of Roots) from being soak'd by an inconsiderable Rain, since even great Showers cannot do it.

It is most certain that the Fruit is in danger of dropping down, and perishing, the Roots of Fig-Trees ceasing never so little to act, for want of Moisture, and to furnish the Figs with the perpetual help they stand indispensibly in need of; which will certainly happen, upon failure of the great and frequent Waterings we recommend: For those Figs that have wanted the least Nourishment, remain flobby, and, as it were, full of Wind, instead of being fill'd up with a good pithy Pulp; and so, instead of Ripening, drop down; which is the greatest Inconvenience that can be fear'd; and consequently, this requires so great an Application, that it is no easie matter to succeed in Fig-Gardens.

The Fig-Trees Planted in the main Ground requires no such Slavery; since such as are Planted even in very dry Soils commonly produce Fine Large Good Figs; the Roots which have the liberty of extending round about, tho' the Earth be never so parch'd, still find wherewithal to perform their Function and Duty: and in imitation of those, when the bot∣toms of Cases touch the Ground, commonly some Roots get out of it, which take into that very Ground, and there multiply to that degree, that they are able to live without frequent Waterings: But then they are liable to other Inconveniencies, which I shall men∣tion in the Sequel.

There now remains to speak of the Pruning and Pinching or Breaking, which I Pra∣ctice upon Fig-Trees, either Planted in the main Ground, or in Cases; both for the For∣ming of Fine Trees, according to the Beauty proper to those Trees, as well as to make them shoot the Figs the sooner, every one in their Season; that is, not only the first, which are call'd Blossom-Figs, but also the second, call'd Autumn, or Second-Figs, and Figs of the second Sap, &c.

As to the Beauty proper to Fig-Trees in Cases, it is not to be expected that it can be so regular as that of Orange-Trees, that are likewise in Cases; neither can the Beauty of Fig-Trees, either Dwarf-Standards, or against a Wall, be expected so perfect as that of Dwarf-Pear-Trees, or other Wall-Fruits.

We have sufficiently explain'd those kind of Beauties, each in particular, in Treatises written upon that Subject, without repeating it here: It will suffice to say, That the

Beauty of Fig-Trees in Cases, consists chiefly in being real Dwarf-Standards, without having any Stem if possible; and lastly, in not Shooting too high, or being too much Extended, and open, with great bare Branches, which is but too common in those Trees, unless an extraordinary Care be taken of them.

There is no great necessity of saying, that at the end of Winter, or at the beginning of the Spring, it will be necessary to Trim or Pluck off all the Dead Wood of Fig-Trees, either in the main ground, or in Cases, no body being ignorant of it: Those kind of Trees having very Pithy or Sappy Branches, are liable to have a great many of them spoyl'd, tho' the Cold be never so moderate. We have often Experienc'd it, particularly in the Win∣ter of 1675. in which there was not half an inch of Ice in any part, and yet a considera∣ble number of Fig-Tree Branches perish'd; as if the absence of heat alone was capable to destroy them; consequently, a far greater quantity must perish in long hard Winters, as we had in 1670, and 1676. in which, the Frost was so terrible, and our Gard'ners suf∣fer'd so much by it, that they were forc'd almost in all parts, to cut the thickest Fig-Trees, within the very Foot, altho' they had been pretty well cover'd either with Straw, or dry Dung; even in so much, that the very Snow, which is a Soveraign Remedy for the Preservation of many young Tender Plants, as Pease, Strawberries, and Lettuce, &c. could not avail for the preservation of those Well-belov'd unfortunate Fig-Trees; nay, rather Contributed to their destruction.

It is true, that some Gard'ners, tho' pretty Careful, have (notwithstanding their Care) had the Ill luck to see part of their Fig-Trees Perish, when no body could impute the least fault to them, which was occasion'd by the Walls where those Fig-Trees were Planted, not being thick enough to hinder the rigour of the Frost from penetrating through them; hap∣py are those whose Fig-Trees are Planted against good Buildings, particularly, near Chim∣neys, that are actually us'd, or at least, against Walls about two foot thick, and well ex∣pos'd: Happy likewise are those who have them in dry Elevated Situations, and yet in a good Ground.

And Consequently, unhappy all those, who having none of these advantages, are expos'd to all that's pernicious for Fig-Trees, as thin Walls to their Gardens, a Cold and Moist Soil, wanting both a favourable Climate, and Situation.

Since then Fig-Trees are as difficult in the preservation, as their Fruit is Precious; let us give an exact Summary of what we think most proper, at least to endeavour the de∣fending of them as much as can be possible, from what is capable of destroying of them.

The Inconveniencies wherewith they are threaten'd, do not hinder me, as I have already declar'd, in the Treatise of the Choice and Proportion of Fruit, from advising every body to Plant a reasonable quantity of them; I mean in the main Ground, having somewhat of the Situation that is proper for them, tho wanting some of the Conditions that were to be wish'd for, for them.

Great Winters do not happen so often, as to discourage us for ever from having some of those kind of Trees, which produce such an Excellent Fruit.

The most material thing in this Case for the Culture, is first, during the Summer, and Autumn, to give their Branches some liberty, the Fruits growing better, and more easily upon them: They must neither be Constrain'd, nor Pallisado'd, or tack'd like the Branches of other Wall-Fruit-Trees; it will suffice to uphold them before with some Pearches barely plac'd upon great Hooks driven into the Walls, so as to be at three foot distance from each other; and that beginning from the bottom, there may be a Row within a foot of the Ground, Checker-wise: Those Hooks must be four Inches into the Wall, and about eight on the outside, made, as it appears in the Figure.

[illustration]

In the second Place, every Year, as soon as the Leaves of Fig-Trees are fallen, that is, as soon as the Winter draws nigh, whatever that Winter may prove; for we must always 〈◊〉〈◊〉 its being Violent, which dread ought to produce good effects in us; every year, I 〈◊〉〈◊〉, we must as much as can be constrain the Branches of those Fig-Trees, as near as we 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to the Walls, either with Nails and List, or else with Osirs, Poles, and Pearches; but yet so, that they may neither break, nor crack; after which, must be apply'd to them a 〈◊〉〈◊〉 made of Straw, about two or three Inches in thickness, or else bare Straw in the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of those Frames, or rather Long Dung, about the thickness of four or five Inches; all 〈◊〉〈◊〉 being well prop'd with Pearches, most broadwise, and some crosswise, taking care that

no part may remain bare, and expos'd to the weather. Besides all which, another parcel of the same long Dung must be kept ready near the Fig-Trees, to double the Coverings if need be, one single Night being sufficient to ruine all. North East Winds, as we had them in the Winter 1676. and the South Winds, like unto those of the Winter 1670. are likewise sometimes Mortal for Fig-Trees, and commonly more than full North, so that a guard must be kept equally against them all.

Whenever then any body designs to have Fig-Trees, they must be prepar'd to take all the Care we have mention'd, as necessary for their Preservation: But when, notwithstand∣ing all this, some prove so unfortunate as not to succeed, which without doubt will hap∣pen but seldom, provided the Walls they stand against, are condition'd as aforesaid: Al∣though I say, this should happen, in my Opinion it ought not to trouble one, since nothing has been wanting that lay in the Power of Man.

The Winter being past, and even the Month of March almost quite spent, if the Fig-Trees stand against the Wall, only half their Covering must be taken away, especially that part the Winter may have spoyl'd or rotten, and leave the Branches still fix'd thus to the Wall, at least always half cover'd, without altering any thing about them, until the Full Moon of April; provided always, that if the Full Moon of March, which happens in the Passion-Week, seems to threaten some Frost, as it often does, you must not fail at the least signal of it to redouble the Coverings immediately, there to leave them until the Weather appear more certain, and the Figs are grown to the bigness of a Large Pea; which in our Climates seldom happens until the beginning of May; for as we have already said, the main part of the great Colds seldom leave us 'till then: At which time it will be proper to put some small Branches, heretofore ty'd and constrain'd, at liberty; but yet, as I have like∣wise said, not without propping them with Pearches crosswise, to hinder them from falling too much forward: This, in my Opinion, is a sufficient stay, those Pearches put upon Hooks supporting the Branches very well, and hindering them, not only from falling, but also from breaking, and being ruffled by the Wind, and the Fruit is thereby preserv'd sound and intire.

I must farther add, that Large Sheets are proper enough to cover (during dangerous or suspected Nights) Fig-Trees being near the Wall, either Planted there, or in Cases; to which end they must be fasten'd to the Pearches, like Sails to Masts, and besides, put other long Perches almost straight over the Fig-Trees, to hinder the Sheets being agitated by the Winds, from touching the Fruit, the rubbing of the Sheets against them never failing to spoyl them; so that it will likewise be convenient to tie those Sheets near the Ground, by means of some Hooks that may hinder them from such Agitations.

The third Material thing to be done for the Culture of those Fig-Trees, is early to remove at the end of Winter, or even at the end of Autumn, the greatest part of the Suckers or Layers they shoot from their Foot, without preserving any, unless it be some that may appear to be of use, either to fill up the sides, or to supply the room of such as are dead, or dying: Besides, a good use will be made of those Suckers, or Layers, Planting them in some Trench made on purpose for it near some good Wall; and whether there, or elsewhere, Care must be taken to cover them so well, that the great Cold may not be able to spoil them.

It is not less necessary to hinder as much as can be, those Fig-Trees from raising soon to a great heighth, for Example, to two or three fathom, to the end, that keeping them al∣ways of a moderate heighth, they may consequently always remain full, and well furnish'd, especially, easie to cover in the Winter time, which cannot be when they are too high: Therefore from year to year the thick new Branches must seldom be allow'd more than a Foot, a Foot and a half, or two Foot at most, which is the only Pruning they require, after having, as we have already said, clear'd them from all manner of dead Wood.

Moreover, towards the end of March, it is fit to break the end of the Extremety of every thick Branch, which may chance not to be above a Foot in length, provided the Winter has not already spoil'd it, which happens commonly to such as have only been finish'd a great way in Autumn, but seldom happens to such as have been perfected betimes; however, that end which appears black, wrinkled, and dead, must be cut neatly.

This Method of Pinching or Pruning, serves to make several New Branches grow forked, instead of shooting single, which in regularity would have grown straight, that end being indeed a real beginning of a Branch: This breaking then promises a greater quan∣tity of Figs, either for the second, which is most common, or for the first of the Summer for the following year; it being certain, that from the Navel of every Leaf a Fig will in∣fallibly grow, and sometimes two at once, for one of those two Seasons.

This Breaking, or small Pruning of the Bud, which appears on the Extremity, serves be∣sides, as it seems, to make the Figs shoot out the sooner, and consequently to Ripen them

sooner, since the first that come out of the Tree are always the first Ripe upon that Tree; It serves likewise, without doubt, to make them grow the larger, by reason that the Sap being thus hinder'd from rising as quick as it would have done without this Pruning, slips, as it were, into the adjacent Parts, and consequently into the Figs, and so serves to nourish them better than they should have been.

The same Operation which we perform in Breaking or Cutting in the Months of March, and April, the ends of the Shoots of the preceding year, which is to be understood of those that are thick, and moderately long; for the slender ones must be almost taken away quite, and as for those that are very thick, and very long, we have heretofore de∣clar'd how they must be shorten'd: The same Operation must be perform'd at the begin∣ning of June, upon the thick Branches shot in the Spring, and that likewise in Order to mul∣tiply that very Summer the Branches that are to grow, and consequently to multiply the first Figs of the following year; for many Figs must not be expected in either Season, unless by means of Pinching a great many good new Branches be prepar'd, which happens infallibly, when People are careful of Pinching; besides, this very Operation produces yet a wonderful effect, which is to hinder the Tree from mounting too much, and too soon, and from having Branches that may prove too thick, and too long, as well as bare, which is much to be fear'd.

If the preceeding year some thick Branches have been allow'd a pretty length, which in their time have been good and useful, and yet give cause to fear the inconvenience of Thinness, or Barrenness, they must in the Months of April, and May, especially having no Fruit upon them, be shorten'd very low, close to the old Wood, in hopes that new Branches may proceed from that Pruning; but that is no more infallible here, than upon the old Branches of shorten'd Peach-Trees: However, it will serve at least not to leave any thing with too much length, which might cause an Emptiness, or Barrenness; and in the mean time the Sap will perform its effect upon some of the adjacent Branches, and some∣times also upon the old one that has been shorten'd; but yet it is certain that Fig-Trees ne∣ver shoot so well, as from the Natural Extremity, I mean the Extremity of the Branches of the preceeding years growth, not having been Cut.

Fig-Trees, in relation to their Fruit, are contrary to all other Fruit-Trees, because that the thick Branches of Fig-Trees, provided they be not of false Wood, they being liable to it, as well as other Trees, produce the Fruit; whereas the slender ones produce it in other Fruit-Trees; therefore as much Care must be had in destroying the slender Branches upon these Trees, as in preserving them upon others.

Those Branches of false Wood, or Suckers, are known here by flat Eyes, or Buds, and their being at a great distance from each other, in the same manner as upon Stone and Kernel Fruit; which Branches must of necessity be Prun'd somewhat short, which needs not be done to such which being happily grown on the Extremities of other Branches, are both very good, and of a moderate length, and as such have thick or large close Eyes, or Buds.

It is likewise particularly to be Noted, That in the Pruning of the thick Branches here is a greater Conflict to undergo, than in other Trees; since, as we have already often said, the thick Branches never produce or bear Fruit upon those, and only serve for the Figure: Whereas in Fig-Trees the thick Branches serve both for the Figure, and for the Bearing of Fruit; so that particularly, as to the Fig-Trees in Cases, whereof the Chief Beauty consists in remaining low; it seems almost impossible to have them at once well form'd, to be of an agreeable Figure, and yet full of Fruit, which, notwithstanding, is the main Point here; for as the Fig-Trees in Cases naturally produce but little Wood, and that whatever Fig-Tree has but little Wood, can have but little Fruit. In short'ning the thick Branches in prospect of the Figure, we decline the Fruit. The only Medium to be observ'd in this, is always to shorten some of the thickest in every Tree, either old, or new, which will serve for the Beauty of the Figure; at the same time venturing to leave all the other long, to enjoy the Fruit that appears upon them: In case any Misfortune be befal'n the first Figs, and that towards the middle of April, or the beginning of May, any be desirous to shorten also some of those Branches that had been left long for Fruit, it may be done, and in so doing, the number of the second Figs will receive so much diminution; but then, to make amends, the number of the first for the next year will be augmented, by reason that the new Branches that shall shoot from those that shall have been Prun'd, will not come out soon enough to produce Autumn Figs, but yet time enough for the others.

In hot Soils, all the Figs come out before the end of March, and the Trees begin to make new Shoots before the end of April, and the first Fruit Ripens before the end of June, and in the beginning of July, and the second in the beginning of September: But in Cold Soils, like Versailles, the Figs do not come out till about the end of April, or even towards the middle of May; and the Shoots do not begin to appear neither, until towards the

middle of May; and the Shoots do not begin to appear neither, until towards the middle of May; and consequently, the first Fruits do not ripen there, until the middle or end of July; and the second, towards the latter end of September.

From every Eye, or Bud, which, in Fig-Trees, remain, in the Spring, upon the thick Branches of the preceding Year, we may certainly expect a Fig, and sometimes two; but we must never have above one which may come to good, if the Season be favourable: And, moreover, every Eye may produce a Branch, which does not always happen, it depending from the thickness of the Mother-Branch, and the short Pruning that has been perform'd upon it. Besides, every good Branch commonly produces to the number of six or seven Figs; that is to say, that it may be grown longer, by six or seven Eyes, or Buds; either from the Month of March, to the middle of June; or from the middle of June, to the end of Autumn; it seldom produces any more. Besides, Figs never grow twice upon the same Eye, or Bud; that which has produc'd any in Autumn, whether they ripen, or no, producing no others the next Season.

More Preparations must be us'd to make the first Figs grow, than the second; there being constantly but too many of these, because that sound Fig-Trees commonly shoot ma∣ny fine Sprigs, and that every Leaf form'd before Midsummer, generally owes a Fig, ei∣ther for the Autumn of that very Year, which is most common; or for the Summer of the following Year, when the Fig has not appear'd in Autumn. This being so, it hap∣pens almost always, that abundance of those Figs for Autumn do appear, which grow in vain, by reason that they seldom ripen; the cold Rains, that are frequent and common in Autumn, and the white Frosts of the Season, killing them almost all, either in making them burst, and open, and so fall, or drop; or else, hindring them from growing to Maturity: And, as for these, it is not to be expected, that, notwithstanding they have been preserv'd Green in the Winter, and well fix'd to the Tree, the Renewing of the Sap in the Spring should bring them to any Perfection; it being most certain, that they will drop, without coming to any thing.

But as for those Figs we call Figs of the first Sap, or Midsummer-Figs, as they only grow in proportion to the Shoots and Leaves, shot from Midsummer, till towards Au∣tumn; and that often Fig-Trees, particularly in Cases, produce but few Branches, and regularly short, having but little Vigour in the Summer, and yet being oblig'd to nou∣rish their Fruit, it follows consequently, that they produce but a small quantity of Fruit for the Spring, the weak Branches neither being capable to bear any at that time, nor when they do bear them, of preserving them against the Cold of the Season; wherefore it is fit to have very particular Regards, in order to make Fig-Trees, and particularly those that are in Cases, produce fine Shoots after Midsummer, which depends upon the Vigour of the Foot; and more particularly on the Assistance we ought to afford it, when in that Condition.

When some Branches are preserv'd, being somewhat weak, they must be kept very short, to the end that the Remainder may be the better nourish'd, and that the Figs, if any can grow upon them, may grow the finer; but still, upon condition that if any other weak Branches should shoot from those, they shall all be taken away, and none preserv'd, unless perhaps the lowest, which thereby may grow to a reasonable thickness.

The same Care that is taken of Fig-Trees in Cases, just after the Winter, placing them in good Situations, ought likewise to be taken to place them also in proper Situations at the Coming in of Autumn, to the end that, in order to the Maturity of the Figs of that Season, they may receive the Benefit of the little Heat the Sun affords us at that time. But then, none of the Roots must be allow'd to get out of the Cases, by reason that there being a necessity of pulling them out, in transporting of the Cases, both the Tree and Fruit would suffer considerably by it, which must needs create a Subject of Trouble.

But then, the only Remedy, when the bottom of the Cases has touch'd the Ground in the Summer time, the Roots of the Fig-Tree having extreamly multiply'd there, and the Trees being really the better for it, so as not to stand in need of such frequent Waterings, though, at the same time, it rots the Cases the sooner; the bottom of the Cases having thus touch'd the Ground, it will be necessary, before they are put in the Conservatory, to cut all those Roots well; or, at least, it must be done at the Taking them out again, be∣fore they are carry'd to the place where they are to remain all the Summer; for what∣ever part of them has been expos'd to the Air, absolutely spoils: But, after having taken off what is spoil'd, those very Cases, being again put upon the Ground, the Roots will multiply again, more than the Year before. And it is not amiss to sacrifice thus some Cases, especially such as begin to be old, and of which the Fig-Trees have been long Cas'd.

Moreover, Whereas the first Figs may always ripen, whatever Situation they be in, the Heats of the Summer being sufficient for that, it induces me to place Fig-Trees willingly into the West Part, and pretty often likewise to the North; by which means I have Figs much longer, those that are plac'd in those indifferent Situations ripening after the others; so that they almost supply the Interval, between the First, and the Second: In which I ad∣vise others to imitate me; but yet, upon condition, not to expect Autumn-Figs from such Situations, unless the Season proves extraordinary fine and dry. And when Fig-Trees have been plac'd in such Expositions, or Situations, great Care must be taken to cover them yet better in the Winter, than those that were plac'd in the other Si∣tuations.

Particular Precautions must be had for Fig-Trees Planted in the Ground; especal∣ly, not to place them under the Spouts of great Coverings, which might threaten them with too much Water, and particularly, with a great deal of mizling Frost, as well in the Winter, as in the Spring: And in case there be no other place proper to Plant them in, those Spouts must be turn'd some other way, by means of some Wooden or Leaden Gutter.

As to the Method of Pruning Dwarf-Standard Fig-Trees, there is nothing to be added to what we have already said of those that are Planted against Walls, or in Cases. The Dwarf-Standards will not produce Figs, altogether so soon as those Fig-Trees that are well Expos'd, and even later than those that are in Cases: which being heated by the Sun, on all sides of the Case, ripen, as we have already said, a little sooner than the Dwarf-Standards, and even sooner than the Espaliers. Those Dwarfs will likewise be a little troublesom for the Coverings of the Winter, and therefore it is dangerous to have any of those, unless it be in very little, private places, and those shelter'd from great Frosts: they will likewise be apt to cause a Confusion, if, being in a good Soil, Endeavours be us'd to keep them low, and to hinder them at the same time, from producing great Shoots: For which reason, it will be necessary to Pinch them carefully, and to have always some thick Branches, Prun'd low; and finally, to clear and free them often, as well from so many old worn out Branches, as from all new Suckers.

To that End, such Dwarf-Standards must always be kept at a very considerable distance from each other, in order to lay a great many Branches yearly into the Ground, thereby to ease the whole Body of the Tree, suffering it to grow in breadth as much as it pleases. As to their Coverings, Care must be taken, at the End of Autumn, first to assemble and close their Branches together with Oziers, and Poles, fix'd into the Ground, that they may form a kind of Bowl, or Pyramid; closing it afterwards with long, dry Dung, as we have done to Fig-Trees in Espaliers; but yet they must not be uncover'd quite, altogether so soon as the others that are shelter'd by a Wall; and the Coverings must, by all means, be renew'd, during the Spring.

After having explain'd my Method, as well as possible I can, as well for the Pruning of all kinds of young Trees, during the four or five first Years of their being Planted, as for the Trimming for the Buds, and useless Sprigs, and Pinching of such as may stand in need of it, having also explain'd my Method, as to the Culture of Fig-Trees, planted either in the open Ground, or Cases; I now proceed, according to my Promise, to explain, with the same Exactness, my Opinion, as to the Pruning of old Trees.

CHAP. XXXVII.

Of the Manner of Pruning pretty old Trees.

SInce Pruning may be look'd upon as a kind of Remedy for Fruit-Trees, and that really we have made use of the Rules and Principles thereof, in order to render the young Trees in our Gardens more agreeable as to their Figure, as well as more Fertile in fine and good Fruit, than they would have been without being Prun'd; being now to treat about a proper Remedy for Old Fruit-Trees, I am of Opinion, that, to make my self the bet∣ter understood, I must first of all suppose two things; the one in relation to their Vi∣gour, or Weakness: And I am likewise of Opinion, that it will be proper for me to ex∣plain this last Part, before I meddle with the first, this being altogether grounded upon the other; and those vigorous Trees requiring absolutely to be treated in a different man∣ner from those that are not so.

As to what relates to the Vigour or Weakness of Trees, we are to say, that those Trees are either very vigorous, producing abundance of thick Shoots, or very weak, hardly pro∣ducing any, or at most but very small ones; or in fine, neither incline too much to an excess of Vigour, or of Weakness, so as to be in the Case we may wish to have them: These are absolutely the three different Cases Trees can be in.

When they are very Vigorous, and as it were Furious, whether the Beauty of their Fi∣gure be already form'd, or not, we must still propose to our selves, that whenever we go about to Prune them, it will be proper above all things, to leave a great Burthen upon them, that is, to leave a great many out-lets upon them, not only for Fruit-Branches, but also for Branches for Wood; which is perform'd two ways; of which the first is to allow thick Branches preserv'd for the establishing or preserving of a Beautiful Figure, somewhat of an extraordinary length: The second is, not wholly to take away hardly any of their thick new Branches, especially such as shoot outward; but after having chosen in each part of the Tree, among the thick ones, that which appears the best plac'd to Contribute to the Beauty of the Figure, and that with an intention to shorten it moderately, according to its Situation, which I explain elsewhere; after that, I say, the adjacent Branches to that must be cut very short, that is, if they shoot outwards they must be Cut slantingly, within one or two Eyes of the place whence they proceed; if altogether inward, within the thickness of a Crown Piece.

When I speak of allowing somewhat of an extraordinary length in Praning to a Branch for Wood, I mean a Foot and a half, or two Foot at most, and yet I seldom Practice this my self; but whenever I do, 'tis always with an intention of reducing that extraordinary length to a more moderate one, as soon as the Tree bears Fruit.

In order to understand what is meant by shortning a Thick Branch moderately, it will be proper to remember, that whereas from the Extremity of a thick Branch being Prun'd, several other new ones will proceed, Care must be taken to leave room, that is, an empty Place, where these New Branches may easily lodge themselves, without causing any Confusion among one another, or with those that are there already, or such as are to come; which is the Point upon which I would have People regulate themselves as to the moderate length which is to be allow'd to such thick Branches that are to be Prun'd; but yet, in Regularity, a Vigorous Tree must seldom be allow'd thick Branches, unless they be at least seven or eight Inches in length, and sometimes in Case of necessity they may be allow'd to the number of Eleven or Twelve, always remembring, that the said Branches must be cut shorter, whenever the Tree shall satisfie us with Fruit; so that it depends on the Gard'ners Prudence to allow more or less length to such a Branch that is to be shorten'd, and that as well in respect to the Vigour it appears to be of, as to the Place that is to be fill'd up in the Neighbourhood thereof.

When Old Trees are very Weak, commonly the best Expedlent is to take them away, and put young ones in their room, after having us'd all the Precaution necessary in such Cases; but if, on the Contrary, People will preserve them, they must resolve to disburthen or clear them extreamly, either in giving them the Figure which is proper to them, which perhaps they want, or in order to preserve it, if already acquir'd; to which end, they must resolve to leave very few Branches for Wood upon them, and to Prune them all short, that is, five or six Inches in length at most, even resolving to leave but very few weak ones, and consequently no useless ones, especially such as seem to be wasted with Air, without having born any Fruit, or such as are wasted by having produc'd much; for as we have already observ'd in sundry Places, Branches perish in Bearing, and even some Perish sometimes after having born: Therefore those Branches must be considerably shorten'd, or even taken away quite, when they appear altogether wasted, and consequently useless.

But when Trees are moderate, so as neither to fall into the excess of Vigour, or Weak∣ness, but on the contrary, bear a reasonable quantity of Fruit, and at the same time pro∣duce Wood in some measure, according to our desires, both for us, and for themselves; in such a Case, those Trees being pretty well shap'd, it will be fit, in relation to them, to follow as well the Rules heretofore prescrib'd for young Trees, as those we are going to prescribe; and if those Trees are ill Condition'd, or ill Shap'd, endeavours must be us'd to or∣der them better, which we will visibly discover, after having first Explain'd what concerns the Figure, which is proper for all manner of Old Trees.

Upon this Case, we must moreover suppose, that those kind of Trees are either already * 1.9 defective, and in disorder, or perhaps are upon the point of becoming so: This is the first Reflection to be carefully made at first sight of a Tree that is to be Prun'd, whatever it may be, Wall-Tree, or Dwarf, in order to resolve with more ease upon what is to be done in relation to the Figure.

If the Defects are already happen'd, that is, if the Tree, instead of having an agreeable * 1.10 Figure, according to the Idea I have heretofore Explain'd, it has an ill disagreeable one, either in the whole, or in Part.

For Example, if it be a Dwarf, instead of being low in the Stem, A. which is the Perfection of it, of being open in the middle B. which is the second, of being round in the Circumference C. which is the third; and in fine, instead of being equally furnish'd with many good Branches round about its roundness D. which is the Fourth; it should on the contrary, be too high in the Stem E. which is the first Defect of it; full and Confuse in the middle F. which is the second; having one side high, G. and the other low, G. or * 1.11 one side flat, H. or weak, H. while the other is pretty round, and very full, which are the third and fourth Defects.

If it be a Wall-Tree, whether high in the Stem, or low, and short, for as to the Branches, the same Rules serve for both; I say if it be a Wall-Tree, which instead of be∣ing furnish'd to the Right, and Left, as it ought to be with good Branches, from the Place where it begins, to the Place where it ends; and that in such a manner, as to be equally garnish'd on both sides, without the least Confusion in the World; insomuch that every Branch might easily be distinguish'd, and reckon'd (in which the Great Perfection, and Beautiful Figure of a Wall-Tree consists) should on the contrary, be quite unprovi∣ded in the middle, shooting altogether upwards, so as to reach the top of the Wall in two or three years time, which it ought not to do in less than Eight or Ten; and perhaps, altogether Confuse besides, and intangled on the one side, while the other appears thin, and unfurnish'd, which are the grand defects of Wall-Trees.

Let us now run over all those Defects one after another, beginning by the Dwarfs, in order to speak our Opinion precisely, as to the means of Correcting of them, if it be possible.

CHAP. XXXVIII.

Of the Defects of Pruning, in Relation to Old Dwarfs.

AS to the first Case, which supposes a Dwarf to be too high in the Stem, I think it need not trouble us much, if the Tree has been Planted long, because it cannot be remedy'd without falling into considerable Inconveniencies, which should be wholly to destroy the head of the Dwarf, and consequently set it back for the space of three or four years from bearing Fruit: The Remedy would be violent, and therefore I do not think it fit to meddle with the Stem of such a Dwarf, tho' too high, and in that respect de∣fective: In that Case, I am only for Correcting the Defects of the Head.

But when the Tree has not been Planted many years, to wit, two or three years, espe∣cially the Head being ill begun, and not according to the Rules of Art, my Opinion is to shorten it quite, to reduce it to the Rule, which prescribes it to have a low Stem, as it is declar'd in the Treatise of Plantations; which I had rather do, than expose my self to leave it always with such a Defect, which must offend the sight perpetually: A Tree well Rooted again, and afterwards shorten'd, soon recovers it self, so as to afford a great deal of pleasure, and upon that account we are not only Comforted, but even very much sa∣tisfy'd with having shorten'd it in that manner.

As to the second Defect of a Dwarf, which is its being confus'd in the middle; when I meet with a Tree thus confus'd in the Figure, and consequently not very proper to bear Fruit, I commonly look upon it as I would do upon a Great Lord, who really has a great Estate, and yet is not easie, by reason of the great Incumbrances that lye upon it: The Selling of some part of his Estate, or of a Place, might be capable to clear his Debts; whereas on the contrary, when I see a Tree well shap'd, and well dispos'd, I fancy I see another Man, who by the wise Management of a Moderate Estate, wants for nothing, and lives at ease and quiet.

Therefore I am for Correcting that second Defect intirely, as well to afford the Tree the Beauty it ought to have, as to facilitate the means of making it bear Fruit, and that so much the rather, because the Remedy is easie, and the Success speedy, certain, and without the least danger.

'Tis only removing altogether a thick Branch from the middle, or perhaps two or three that cause that fullness; that is, this Confusion; and remove them so, that the Sap which had form'd them, nourish'd them, and made them grow, may no longer find any

[illustration]

[illustration]

passage to rise up to the same place, there to perform the Functions it was us'd to do; but Care must be taken that this very Sap in its common way, or road, close to the first Pas∣sage which is stopp'd, may find another as good, and as easie, so that it may be capable of using it, and thereby fully to enter into some thick adjacent Branches, just beneath those that have been retrench'd, as it appears by the Figure.

And so there will be no fear of the growing of any false Wood, or Suckers there, nor of any new Confusion, which would certainly happen, if, in the first place, those thick Branches had been cut from the top, over some weak small Branches, and consequently incapable of re∣ceiving in their small Mouth all the Sap which us'd to enter into those that have been retrench'd.

Or, if in the second place, part of the said thick Branches of the middle had been left, whereas they ought to have been wholly taken away, or else would make a kind of Stump there.

For the Sap returning still from the Foot with its usual abundance, and returning through the same Channel it was us'd to, either to the Stem, or some thick Branch, and finding no Overture large enough to receive it; or perhaps finding none at all, this Sap, I say, bursts of necessity round about that small Branch, over which the thick one was cut off, or else round about that Stump, or those Stumps which were left, and in bursting, makes a great many new Branches in that middle, and consequently forms there the same defect we en∣deavour'd to Correct.

I have shown heretofore, that on such Occasions, there are sometimes some Master∣stroaks to be perform'd, to leave for a certain time a thick Branch over another thick Branch, which must be taken away; to the end that, as in the Case of Fountains, which are someties vented, lest the Winds might hinder the Water from performing its Functi∣on as well as it ought to do, a considerable part of Sap may be wasted into those kind of thick useless Branches, which otherwise would ruine some dispositions for Fruit, ready form'd, or others which might form themselves: But after the Tree seems to perform its duty in relation to Fruit, we may without any scruple wholly take away such thick Branch∣es, that are of no use for the Figure, and have only been left two or three years to waste, as we have said, an abundance of Sap which would have been troublesom to us: Besides, the Overture of the Tree being made by means of some thick Branches that has been taken out of the middle: It will be fit next to examine the remaining Branches, whether good, that is, grown according to the most common Order of Nature, or bad, being grown contrary to the said Order; and consequently Branches of false Wood, in order to preserve as many as can be of the first, which may be useful for Wood, or Fruit, at the same time, assigning to each the length that may be proper for it, thereby to ruine the Ill ones, all, if the Beauty of the Figure requires it, conformably to the Idea we shall have form'd of it, or only part, which may happen when some thick one chances to be suffi∣ciently well plac'd to contribute to that Figure, which without it would prove imperfect.

As for the third defect, which relates to the roundness, it is not so easily remedy'd, as the foregoing; it proceeds from that, when the Dwarf was first form'd, Care was not ta∣ken to order the Matter so, that the Head of the Tree might at least be compos'd of two Branches, partly of an equal strength, or thickness, the one on one side, the other on the other, to keep the Vigour of it in some measure divided, or as it were in an Equilibrium, (when there happen to be three or four, the thing is yet easier.)

But yet, two may be sufficient to that end, by reason that, as we have said, each of them being afterwards Prun'd, as it ought to be, will shoot others on the Extremity of it upon the sides, which others being likewise Prun'd, will in their turn likewise shoot others.

And thus, from year to year, ad infinitum, still performing a new Pruning, good new Branches will still form themselves, which will contribute to form, and afterwards preserve in our Trees that agreeable roundness, and that abundance of fine Fruit we desire.

This defect in the roundness, probably proceeds then from that the Tree when it was first Planted, having at the beginning only produc'd one thick Branch on one side, with a weak one on the opposite side, as it appears by the Figure; the Gard'ner instead of looking at first on that thick Branch as the only one, capable of forming a sine Head, ac∣cording to the Method I have prescrib'd for the Conduct of those kind of Trees, when they are newly Planted; instead of that, I say, has indifferently cut both this thick one, and at the same time, this other small one, leaving them perhaps each of an equal length, without any Prospect as to the Figure, which I hold necessary, and thus the strength of the Sap still continuing its first road, which inclines it only to the thick Branch, still produces many new fine ones on that side; and, whereas there enters but a very inconsiderable quantity of Sap in the small Neighbouring Branch, tho' it grew at the same time with the thick one, so it produces but a very small number of small new Branches, which perish soon

after; that is, perhaps, after having born a little Fruit: Thus one side grows still in Vi∣gour, being extreamly well furnish'd, while the other remains weak, languishing, and thin; and consequently the Tree being only well on one side, makes a very ugly Figure, half flat, and half round, not in the least answering the Figure that is requir'd in a Tree to be perfect, either in it self, or for the pleasure of sight.

From thence it is easie to judge that this defect in point of roundness is great, and even * 1.12 difficult to Correct, at least to be Corrected in few years; however, provided the Gard∣ner takes Care in Pruning, as he easily may, to order it so, that yearly the thick Branch he Prunes may produce some other likewise thick, shooting towards the side that wants filling, furnishing, and being made round; he may in time, in some measure attain to that round Figure.

Now, in order to understand how this may be perform'd with a little Cate and Forecast, it is fit to remember, that, as we have already said, every Branch being Prun'd, must of necessity shoot some new ones on the Extremity of it, and that more or less, according to its thickness, and strength, and the length that has been allow'd to it: A thick, strong, and short one producing commonly a greater quantity, and those finer than either the thick and strong one that has been left long, or the weak one, whatever way it was Prun'd.

So that it is most true, that it is possible to Prune in such a manner, from year to year, that among the thick new Branches (that are to come, and are to grow out of those Eyes, or Buds that are on the Extremity of the Old one that has been Prun'd) there may always be some Principal one, shooting toward the defective side, which consequently must be carefully preserv'd, and Prun'd also with the same regards, and thus this defect diminishing by degrees, the Perfection of roundness, which is wanting in the Figure, will be insensibly Introduc'd.

In Correcting the third Defect of this Dwarf, the fourth is Corrected at the same time, which consists in not being equally furnish'd round about its Circumference; so that this Dwarf in losing the Defect it had in wanting of roundness, at the same time acquires the fourth Perfection it ought to have, that is, it becomes as full on one side, as it was on the other.

CHAP. XXXIX.

The Defects of Pruning, in Relation to Old Wall-Trees.

WE must impute the Defects of Wall-Trees to the same Canse, which is a failure in the first years against the same Principles of Pruning, which had been transgress'd in the forming of Dwarfs, and has now been Corrected by us: That which hinder'd the roundness of those, is absolutely the same thing with that which has hinder'd the Esta∣blishing of that equality of strength, without which the sides of a Wall-Tree cannot be equally furnish'd.

That is, the Wall-Tree must have produc'd the first year, some Branches equally strong, opposite one to another; or if it has shot but one strong one, the whole Beauty of the Tree must be founded alone upon that, without trusting to the weak ones that are grown at the same time for any thing, but Fruit, and then their Death.

This single thick one, being at the Spring Prun'd somewhat short, that is, within five or six Inches, seldom fails, as we have said, of Producing that very year at least two thick ones, with some small ones; which two thick ones will be partly of an equal strength, and oppos'd to each other.

Now each of them having a side to fill, will perform it well, provided the Gard'ner still remains Master of the Extremity of them, so as not to let either slip up, as we have fully explain'd in the Conduct of our young Wall-Trees; and consequently this Wall-Fruit-Tree is commonly only defective by the Negligence, or rather want of Skill of the Gard'ner, who being intrusted with the Conduct thereof, has not had all the Regards we have explain'd in this Treatise for the Pruning of thick Branches: And therefore, whereas he may have been deficient for many years together in those Wall-Trees, against the good Principles of Pruning; it follows, that to repair the Defects of them, there are as many In∣conveniencies to be fear'd, as we have demonstrated, in order to the repairing of those of a Dwarf, being shot too high.

When the Trees are not too Old, I am for short'ning the thick Branches that are, for Ex∣ample, shot up within two or three years, as well in the Case of Kernel, as of Stone-Fruit; those thick Branches being short'ned, will produce new ones on their Extremities, which will begin a-new to form the agreeable Figure Wall-Trees ought to have; and toge∣ther with that Figure, will not only bear abundance of Fruit, but will bear long, which those kind of Wall-Trees shot up too high cannot perform, the common heighth of the Walls not allowing it: And as for those Trees that are Older, perhaps some thick Bran∣ches may be short'ned, which Expedient is pretty secure in all sort of Fruit-Trees, excepting Peach-Trees being Graff'd; for it is certain, that Peach-Trees growing from a Stone, live much longer than others, but then they do not bear Fruit so soon; but in recompence, being Cut again, they still shoot Vigorously, which the others that have been Graff'd do not do, being Old, Infirm, and Weak, at the end of Ten or Twelve years: This is the reason why they can hardly shoot any new Branches through the hard dry Bark of an old Branch that shall have been shorten'd upon them.

Therefore, in my Opinion, the best way is to leave those Old Peach-Trees in the Con∣dition they are, without Performing the Grand Remedy upon them, which is to shorten them; only Pruning them as if they were well-Condition'd, in order to get Fruit from them, as long as they are capable of affording such as is Good, and Fair, with a Resolve to destroy them as soon as they cease to bear such. In the mean time, I think it very pro∣per to remove the Earth from the sides, which I believe may be wasted; at the same time taking away the greatest part of the Old Roots that may be found in moving of the Earth, putting afterwards good new Mould in the room of it, then Plant new Trees there, that may be young, and fine, and of the Choicest Fruits.

As for the other kind of Trees that have been Stock'd up, or Shorten'd, either Pear, Fig, Abricot, or Plumb-Trees, their new Branches must be order'd according to the Rules heretofore Establish'd in the management of young Wall-Trees, which without doubt will succeed well.

The first Defect of a Wall-Tree being Corrected, which, as we have said, consists in not being so well garnish'd with good Branches on the sides, as to have an equality without the least appearance of Confusion; The Second, which consists in having thick Branches shot up too high, being but a Sequel of the first, or rather the same thing, will conse∣quently be Corrected by the same means.

The thick Branches which a Negligent or Unskillful Gard'ner has suffer'd to grow too long, have occasion'd all this disorder, for want of Considering, that whereas the New Branches commonly grow only on the Extremity of those that have been Prun'd, and ne∣ver on the lower part; it follows of Course, that the lower part of such as have been left too long of a Foot and an half, and more, must needs from a great Vacuity, or Thin∣ness, and consequently such a Tree having been thus ill order'd, can never acquire the Beauty a Wall-Tree ought to have, to be effectually in a good Case.

As for the next Defect, which consists in having one part Confuse, that is, too full, while the other wants fullness; it commonly proceeds, either from Old, Small, Wither'd, Useless Branches, left by the Ignorant, or Negligent Gard'ners, or else from having suf∣fer'd and Cut two, three, or four thick Branches close by one another, of an equal length, contrary to a good Maxim which forbids it; it being certain, that since every Branch that is Prun'd, produces new ones, and often many; it being certain, I say, that if many Cut Branches be left near one another, several New ones will of Course shoot from them, which not finding empty places enough to fill up, will cause a Confusion where they are, while another part of the Tree, to which that Sap might have been di∣rected, which occasions a great Defect here, becomes wretched, and forsaken, and as it were starves.

The Rule which forbids this multiplicity of Thick Neighbouring Branches of an equal length, wills one only to be left in every Part, and that of a moderate length; to the end that the New ones it will produce, may severally Garnish some Places, which cer∣tainly without this Forecast, might prove empty, and thin: And in Case it be thought fit in one place, to leave two or three in proportion, as it proves more or less Vigorous, or Thin in that place, they must all differ exceedingly in length, and look on different sides, which may require being Garnish'd; to the end that the new ones that are to grow, may cause a good Effect, instead of being cumbersom, so as to force one to take them away as soon as they are grown.

I have now declar'd in General what I think proper to Remedy by Pruning, the Grand Defects that are happen'd, and still happen daily in Old Trees, either Dwarfs, or Wall-Trees.

There now remains to tell, what I think proper to Remedy the Inconveniences that are like to befall Old Trees.

Perhaps it may be sufficiently known by the Remarks I have just made, without any necessity of saying more precisely, that it is necessary betimes to establish the equality of Vigour, which being once so establish'd, must be preserv'd; and above all things, it is fit to be diffident of thick Branches, which never fail of Usurping a Mastery wherever they begin to form themselves.

The Truth is, that these are the only ones that spoil all, by the ill use that is made * 1.13 of them; they cause all the Defects we have now Observ'd, and Combated, whereas they are the only ones, which, being made a good use of, according to the Rules we have heretofore Explain'd, must not only Contribute to the Beauty of the Figure of Trees, and to make them lasting, but likewise to the abundance of the good and fine Fruit they are to produce. And therefore the first thing to be done, is to Examine at first, whether the Tree be Conformable to the Idea of Beauty it ought to have, and must be very well un∣derstood; or if not, in the first Case, 'tis but following what is Establish'd for young Trees; but particularly, when they seem to swerve from a fine Figure, Care must be ta∣ken to oppose it with Vigour, and Exactness: So that if one side seems to weaken, En∣deavours must be us'd to strengthen it again, by retrenching some thick Branches that are superiour to it; that is, when the Condition of the Tree can permit it: For as one side never weakens considerably, without the others strengthning at the same time, as soon as it is observ'd that the other side seems to strengthen in an extraordinary manner; inso∣much, that some Branch shall have thicken'd Considerably, and have produc'd a great number of others, that thick one must immediately be Cut off, over one looking on the weaker side, thereby going to the Exteriour Source of that Defect, and stopping it, even in the Original; and so Consequently, whether one Branch only, or more, shoot out too much, the current of the Sap is turn'd aside; and whereas that Sap must of necessity have a Course, if it be stop'd on one side, it will incline to another, and by thus dividing it, we contribute to the equality of Vigour, without which, a Tree can never have the Beau∣tiful Figure that is proper to it, and which we ought to Endeavour to procure.

This is for the present all I have to say in Relation to the Pruning of Trees, either Dwarfs, or Wall-Trees: Let us now proceed to the Vine, which is not near so long, or difficult to Explain.

CHAP. XL.

Of the Pruning of Vines.

OF all the things the Art of Husbandry subjects to Pruning, and are commonly Prun'd once a year; nothing to me seems to require it so much as Vines, and nothing more easily Perform'd: Both which Propositions I am perswaded of, and will prove hereafter. In the mean time, I may say by the by, that Earth hardly nourishes any thing that is sub∣ject to more Accidents, or is oftner afflicted, than a Vine; but then, on the other side, I may likewise affirm, that nothing on Earth would be happier in its Productions, if the wishes of Men could Preserve it from all manner of Misfortunes. It will not be proper to make the Apology of it here, it not being the design of this Treatise; it is daily sufficient∣ly prais'd by others: And tho' I were so minded, I could hardly say any thing in favour of it, that were not tiresom.

The Proof of my first Proposition is grounded upon this, That constantly a Vine want∣ing to be Prun'd, Perishes soon after; not in relation to the Foot, which works as it us'd to do, without regard to what relates to the Head, but in relation to the Fruit; since it neither produces any so good, so fine, or so well fed, as that which is regularly Prun'd, by reason that (Lively and Sprightly as it is, perhaps beyond any Plant we are acquainted with) when it is well, it commonly shoots Wood furiously, even several Branches in one Summer, and those thick enough, each five or six Fathom long, every one of those shoot∣ing at the same time a vast number of bad small Branches all along the thick ones, which is a thing sufficiently known by every body.

Now these small Branches in relation to Vines, no more than the too great quantity of large, thick, long ones in relation to Pear-Trees, have no-wise the Gift of Fertility: On the contrary, they remain useless, and so consume to no purpose, a considerable quantity

of Sap, which might be imploy'd to produce Fruit; therefore it is fit to avoid that great quantity of useless Branches upon Vines, which can be done no otherwise than by Pruning, and consequently it is absolutely necessary to Prune a Vine; insomuch, that it is less per∣nicious for a Vine to be ill Prun'd, than not Prun'd at all: For at least this Pruning, tho' ill perform'd, occasions a great benefit, in hindring the Sap from wasting, or being dissi∣pated, as it would be in the long Branches that we retrench in Pruning, it producing at the same time other Branches from the Foot, which will prove more useful: From whence it follows, that in our Husbandry nothing requires so much being Prun'd as a Vine; and indeed, as we have already observ'd, we stand indebted to the Vine for the first beginnings of Pruning, which is now practis'd so usefully by Gard'ners, and Vine-Dressers.

The Reason which made me affirm, that nothing appears so easie to be Prun'd as a Vine, (and this is my second Proposition) is, that in my Opinion nothing punishes the Defects that are committed in Pruning less than a Vine does. We have daily a thousand Examples of it in common Vineyards, where we seldom meet a Vine-Dresser Skillful e∣nough to understand the true method of Pruning a Vine, and consequently of giving a good Reason for what he does; and yet those very Vine-Dressers seldom fail of having yearly a pretty good Vintage, provided the Seasons do not hinder it.

Thus we see that Vines, tho' ill Prun'd, provided the Foot be in a good Con∣dition, do not fail of producing abundance of fine Wood, and consequently a great deal of Fruit; therefore I had reason to say, that nothing is more easie to Prune than a Vine: For indeed, whereas the Roots of it are extreamly Active, they produce abundance of Sap, which of Course makes a great many large new Branches, especially upon those that have been Prun'd the year before. Every one of those new Branches commonly shoots Fruit on the fifth and sixth Eye or Bud, and even pretty often on the seventh; and that which is singular in a Vine, is, that it produces its Fruit at the same time with the Branches; for the Fruit does not grow afterwards here, as it does on the Branches of other Fruit-bear∣ing Plants: And indeed, no Fruit must be expected on a Vine, unless it comes out at the same moment with the Branches, which is a truth known by every body.

Commonly every good new Branch produces at least two fine Bunches of Grapes, which seldom fails; and this furnishes a pretty considerable quantity of Wine; but when every Branch, or at least the Major part produces Three, which happens sometimes, then we have a full Vintage; supposing always, that neither Hail, Frost, or bad Rains, especially those, which falling at the time of the Blossom, make the Grapes run; I say, supposing those Enemies to Vines have spoil'd nothing in its Productions.

I need not mention in this Treatise of the Pruning of Vines, the manner of Planting, or Multiplying it; for besides that, it is not a proper place for it, nothing can be more generally known, than those two Articles are: So that I shall only insist upon the Pruning part, which I look upon to be very necessary, by reason of four or five sorts of Grapes, that are commonly introduc'd in our Gardens, and are indeed the Chief Adornments of them, I mean Muscadins, which are the most Considerable; the others are Chasse∣las, Precoses, or early Grapes, Currans, even Bourdelais not being excluded; not indeed for the same Reasons proper to the others, but for the Reasons explain'd in that part, which Treats of the good use that is to be made of the Walls of every Garden; and shews that Bourdelais are useful both for Leaves, and Verjuice.

I shall begin this small Treatise of the Pruning of Vines, by saying, that among the good Grapes, which Compose part of our Gard'ning, and the common Grapes that grow in Vineyards, there is particularly this great difference; that in our Gardens we neither require abundance of Bunches, or abundance of Grapes upon those Bunches; we desire thin Bunches, with few Grapes upon them, provided they be large, firm, and crackling; to the end that the Season for Maturity being favourable, we may have the pleasure we had propos'd to our selves; which never happens when the Grapes are too close; whereas in Vineyards they have different Prospects, and with reason, desiring nothing so much, as the abundance of Bunches, and quantity of Grapes upon each of them.

I say, moreover, that a good and well amended Soil is not proper to produce good Grapes in our Gardens, especially for Muscadins; we rather want a Soil moderately fat, provided it be not too much worn, and be well situated; and lastly, provided the Plants are neither too old, nor too young; And, in case they be very Vigorous, not too close one to another, so as to cause a Confusion; all which Conditions are very necessary for the goodness of Muscadin, and without doubt to contribute considerably to it, nothing can be of more use, than a Skillful Pruning.

In Order to Perform it skillfully, we are to Examine two Principal Things; first, the Vigour of the whole Plant that is to be Prun'd; and secondly, the Thickness or Strength of every Branch upon which the Pruning is to be perform'd; for as to the time of Pru∣ning, nothing is to be added to what has been said of the time of the Pruning of Trees, since all the same Considerations are to be had in the Pruning of Vines, as have been had in the Pruning of Fruit-Trees.

As to the first Point in question, viz. the Vigour of the Plant (which is known by the thickness, and number of new Shoots) the Chief thing to be done, is always to leave a great burthen to those Plants, that are very Vigorous; I mean a great many Prun'd Branches, whether those Plants have as yet but one Arm, as when they are very young, or have many, as they may have after the fifth or sixth year of their being Plant∣ed: But yet, in either Case, that great Burthen must be so well mannag'd, that it may have no Confusion: And whereas very Vigorous Plants must be greatly burthen'd, so always in proportion, few Cut Branches must be left upon such as are but moderately strong, and yet less upon those that are very weak.

As to the second Point, which relates to the thickness of every Branch upon which the Pruning is to be Perform'd; always supposing the regards I advise for the best Plac'd, which I will explain in the Sequel. That being done, I am always for Pruning upon the thickest Branches, which indeed are the best; at least it must never be perform'd upon the Weak ones; so that if the Trimming of the Buds, and useles Branches, that is necessary to be done yearly in the Month of May, had not taken away abundance of small Shoots that commonly grow upon the Stock, or upon some Old Branch, they must be remov'd at the time of Pruning, weak Shoots not producing near so much as the thick ones.

The Branches to be Prun'd being chosen, which, as we have already declar'd, must always be the thickest, and best plac'd, we must now regulate the length that is proper to be allow'd to each of them: This Length ought commonly to be limited to four good Eyes, or Buds, (which are the four first to be reckon'd from the Place whence the Branch has taken its Birth) unless it be with a design to make the Plant of that Vine rise all on a suddain, or else in the space of two or three years, a great deal higher than it is, or else to make it garnish some distant place, in a short space of time; in which Case, it may be allow'd a great deal more length than we have now Regulated; but still on Condition, that when it shall once have reach'd that heighth, or propos'd distance, it must, if it prove well, always be kept to that, as it may be done with ease, by means of the Pru∣ning I Practise, only yearly performing that Pruning, within the compass of the moderate length above mention'd.

In the performing of this, as well as all other manners of Pruning of Vines, these two Precautions must be had; both of which are pretty Material: The First is, to Cut within a large Inch of the Eye or Bud that is to be the last, I mean on the Extremity of the Branch that is Prun'd, by reason that if it were cut closer, that Eye would be wounded by it, and would not produce so fine a shoot: And the second is, to order the Cut so, that the slope may always draw towards the side that is opposite to that last Eye, for fear the Water, or Bleedings which never fail dropping from that part that is Prun'd, when the Sap begins to rise, should fall upon that last Eye, because it might prove prejudicial to it.

From those four Eyes or Buds left upon the Pruning of a Vigorous Plant, especially a∣gainst a Wall, may always be expected four new Branches, one from each; each of which, as we have already said, will be furnish'd with two or three Bunches of Grapes; that is, every good Branch being Prun'd within the compass of four Eyes, provided, no ill accident befall either of them, which happens sometimes, may produce four good new Branches together, with eight, ten, or twelve Bunches of Grapes for Autumn; so that one Plant of Vine, upon which, at the Spring, shall have been left two good Branches Prun'd, may yield that very year twenty, or twenty four Bunches of Grapes; and ano∣ther having four good Branches, may yield to the number of forty, and so it might rise ad infinitum; always remembring to proportion the burthen in Pruning, to the Vigour of the Plant; likewise noting, that such an abundance can only suit with Vines Planted a∣gainst Walls.

I repeat again, that in Pruning, a great difference is to be made between a Branch shot from the Pruning of the preceeding year, and another; for indeed the first can only be look'd upon as a Branch of false Wood, and consequently, must be absolutely remov'd, unless there be no other upon the Stock, or that it may be of use, as it is pretty often, in order to shorten the Stock close to it, being necessitated so to do, both to keep within the bounds of the heighth we affect, and because Old Branches perish, in fine, at the end of a

certain time, and so consequently the old Wood being grown infirm, and useless, it must needs be remov'd, as soon as it is perceiveable.

Now, since for the Reasons abovesaid, it has been thought fit to preserve some Bran∣ches shot from the stock, for instance, one or two in one and the same place; in such a Case they must be shortned within the compass of two Eyes, in hopes of two fair good Branches, upon which we may lay the foundation of our hopes, for the re-establishing of such a Vine, whether it be the whole Plant, or only part of it, continuing during that year the common Pruning upon some higher Branch, in order to have Fruit that year, resolving to ruine it intirely, the Fruit being gather'd.

We have declar'd elsewhere, that Muscadin requires a pretty deal of heat, adding there∣unto, that it dreads the excess, as much as the Mediocrity, or want of it: Therefore, as in Moderate Climes, like France, Muscadin requires being plac'd to the South, or at least to the East, against Walls: So in very hot Countries, like Languedoc, and Provence, it dreads those kind of Scituations, by reason that the heat being too scorching, the Grapes wither, and burn, instead of ripening, and therefore only thrive there in the open air, where indeed they attain a miraculous Perfection, insomuch, that all the Industry of Man can never reach that Perfection, in Countries that lye somewhat to the North; for which Reason, we are oblig'd to confess, that tho' we need not envy other Climes for all other Fruits, viz. Peaches, Plums, Pears, Apples, and even Figs, and Melons, &c. yet in our Climes we can never approach the happiness of Meridional Countries for Muscadins.

It is to be observ'd particularly, that Muscadin never thrives well against a high Treillis, it is always close, small, and flabby; wherefore I am not for placing it against such, neither must it (especially in Espaliers) be kept so low that the Grapes may touch the ground, or for the water of Spouts to spurt gravel against it: For which reason, I af∣fect a heighth of three, four, or five foot at most, particularly for Muscadin, insomuch, that the Fruit on the Espalier may neither be much higher, nor much lower; this is what I meant heretofore, when I spoke of a Branch, which being thick, is fit for Pruning, provi∣ded it be well plac'd.

The same heighth is likewise very proper for Chassellas, Currans, and early Grapes, &c. but not so necessary: Grapes that do not grow against Walls, indeed may, and ought to be kept much lower, whatever they be, but still we must not swerve from the Maxim which forbids that Grapes that are to be eaten raw, should touch the ground.

The length for the Pruning of every Branch of Vine being regulated, it will now be proper to examine to the bottom the burthen that is fit to be left upon every Plant, which is the most difficult, and most material Point.

When the preceeding years Pruning has produc'd three, or four Branches, as it may do, and often happens; then supposing the Vine to be of the heighth above-mention'd, I be∣gin, by removing wholly all the weak ones, and as to the others, unless the Mother Branch, be very Vigorous, I never preserve above two of them, and chuse the thickest, because that, as we have already said, they are doubtless the best, always chusing, as much as can be, the lowest, provided they be thick, otherwise I keep to the highest; after that, I Prune them both, tho' not of an equal length, that is, allowing them each four Eyes, I only allow it the highest of the two, which I call the Pruning, and leave but two upon the lowest, which I call a Stump; resolving at the same time, to remove the highest quite the following year; together with all those that shall shoot from it, reducing my self wholly to the two that shall grow from that shortest Branch, provided the said Branch succeeds according to my hopes, and appearances; for if any accident should happen to it, so as not to produce two fine Branches, it shooting perhaps but one, I fix still to the finest, and lowest of the Pruning, either to keep two of them, in case the short Branch has fail'd quite; or at least, I preserve one for Pru∣ning, the short one having shot one, that may serve for a short one the following year: This is the Method I daily attempt, not to swerve from the heighth I affect, as good, and necessary.

I affirm, that by this Method, accompany'd with some Culture, and the common Custom of Couching Branches from time, to time, in order to get new Wood, when the old begins to appear wasted; as also with the help of a little Dung, or rather some re∣newing of Soil, when any diminution of Vigour is perceiv'd; I say, I affirm that such a Method will constantly preserve every Plant of Vine in a good Case, Vigorous, and without any Wounds, it will produce fine Grapes; and consequently, if the Season, and Clime contribute to afford it due Maturity, it will yield the Satisfaction that was expected from it.

But when the Plant of Vine, especially of Muscadine, is extraordinary Vigorous, as it happens pretty often, insomuch that the three, or four Branches it has shot from every

Branch that has been Prun'd prove very thick; I am for preserving of them all, Pruning both the one and the others of the Length heretofore specifi'd, as well the highest for Prun∣ing, as the lowest for a Stump; and in order to have room to place without Confusion all the Young ones that are to proceed from that, I pull up some Neighbouring Plant that might stand in my way: I likewise affect sometimes to choose for my Pruning the meanest of those Branchss, always forming my Stump upon the lowest of the thick ones, after which I cut the thickest that are near that mean one, that may be fit for Pruning within one Eye; in order that those kind of Stumps may wast part of the Fury of the Foot, and that the mean Branch I have chosen for the best may not be inconvenienc'd by it, and made to bear Close Fruit, as it would certainly do, if it receiv'd the Vigour of all of them; so that in such a Case, I do not Cut the highest over the lowest, as I use to do, when the Plant is but moderately Vigorous.

When our Muscadines are in Blossom, the thing in the World I am most desirous of, is, that which, excepting Frost and Hail, is most to be dreaded for Vines, and that is Rain, in order to make part of the Grapes weep away, without which they would be too close, as well as too small and flabby; therefore when Nature does not allow me that Rain according to my desire, I endeavour to supply it with Waterings, which for the most part succeeds well: I must confess that it is very Troublesome for such as have a great many Plants of Muscadine, but yet the Experiment may be try'd upon a smaller Number.

When the Year proves Extraordinary Drie at the season of Maturity, if my Soil be naturally very Drie, I Water the Foot of my Vine largely, especially when the Fruit be∣gins to turn; such a Watering, when necessary, and well perform'd in the Month of August, Contributes certainly to the largeness and firmness of the Grapes.

When the Fruit-Bearing Branch, I mean the new Branch of that Years growth, is not of a Monstrous thickness, as some of them prove sometimes, I Cut it in the Month of July, close to the Fruit, being careful at the same time, by means of some Neighbour∣ing Leaves, to shelter the Fruit from the great heat of the Sun, until it be at least half ripe; for when it draws near Maturity, and this is a general Rule, it is proper to keep it a little bare, in order to afford it that Yellow Colour, which becomes it so well: The Cutting I just mention'd, augments the Nourishment of the Fruit, and commonly con∣tributes to make it larger, and more crackling, but it is not always certain nor infallible, neither must it be done, when the Branches are very thick; for whereas in the Summer they shoot almost as many small new Branches, as they have Eyes or Buds, those Branches growing thick, would in course occasion a great Confusion, for even when the Branches are not shortned, they notwithstanding shoot, during the Summer, abundance of those Buds, which must be carefully pull'd off, as being very Useless.

Happy are those who are in such Situations, where Muscadine yearly ripens well, I cannot forbear envying their good Fortune a little. Happy likewise are those, who having Muscadine in an indifferent Climate, and pretty ill Ground, are favour'd with such a Summer as we had in the Year 1676, for it is most certain, that we have Reason to be contented with that Years Muscadine.

But it is not sufficient for our Vines to have abundance of fine Bunches, and those not over stock'd with Grapes, nor for the Season to be favourable to make them Ripen well, we have besides other considerable Enemies to dread for those Grapes, as well as for Fig-Trees, which are, besides some Frosts which make the Leaves fall, and long Cold Rains, which Rot the Grapes; Birds and Flies of several kinds; as to the first, the first, the best way to prevent their Mischief, is to hang Nets before those Grapes which will hinder the Birds from coming near it; but that remedy is not very easie, when there is abundance of Muscadine to be preserv'd: As to the Flies, we have the Remedy of Viols, that must be half filled with Water mix'd with a little Hony, or Sugar, which Expedient is suffi∣ciently known by every Body; those Viols must be hung up in divers Places about the Vines with some Pack-Thread, and those Infects seldom fail of getting into them, being attracted by the Sweetness of the Honey and Sugar, and there certainly perish, as soon as they are got in, not being able to find the way out again; at least abundance of them are destroy'd that way, tho' it is almost impossible to destroy them all: Care must be taken besides, to empty those Viols, when any Considerable number of those Flies are taken, otherwise no more of them would be taken, the Corruption and Stink they are Subject to, hinder the others from coming there: Then the said Viols must be fill'd up again, as before, and plac'd a-new in proper Places.

Paper bags, and Linnen Cloths, are likewise us'd to cover every Bunch, but besides that it is a kind of Slavery, if on the one side it serves to preserve the Grapes so inclos'd from the Birds and Flies, on the other side, it hinders the Sun from affording them that same Yellow Colour, which is so agreeable to sight, and Contributes to make them better, as well as

to show their perfect Maturity: For to imagine that it preserves the Grapes the longer ripe, is an Error I have experienc'd; The Reason is, that Fruit begins to Rot, as soon as it is throughly Ripe, and even sometimes before; and as soon as one Grape is tainted, it spoils the next, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 next another, and so ad infinitum, which is a very considerable In∣conveniency, not so easily discover'd when the Grapes are enclos'd, as when they are bare; as soon as a Grape looks tainted, it must be pick'd, to hinder it from infecting the rest.

I must not omit adding, that in such years as produce an infinite quantity of Bunches, as the year 1677. it will be fit to take away part of them in those places where they are too thick, as also too thin, those Bunches that appear too close, or too full, as well as to shorten on the lower Extremity such as seem too long, that Extremity never ripening so well, as the Top, which always ripens the best of any other part.

I should likewise add, that no Grapes must be gather'd, especially Muscadine, until it be perfectly ripe, since perfect Maturity is absolutely necessary to afford it that sweetness, and flavour, without which, nothing can be less agreeable than Muscadin: But this Ad∣vice shall be compos'd in one of the Chapters of the following Part; wherein I shall ex∣amine whatever relates to the maturity of every particular Fruit.

The End of the Fourth Part.

[illustration]

OF FRUIT-GARDENS, AND Kitchen-Gardens. VOL. II. PART V.

CHAP. I.

Concerning the Care that is Requir'd to Pick Fruits, when they are too abounding.

WHereas the Intention of our Culture is not only to promote fair Fruit, but especially to have it fine, and large; hoping thereby, and with Reason, that it will be the better for it, goodness seldom failing to attend Beauty, and Largeness of Size: And, whereas neither Pruning, nor the Trimming of the Buds, and useless Branches, the Tillages, or Improvements of the Ground are always sufficient to af∣ford us this Beauty, and Size; it follows from thence, that there is something else to be done, which is that I am to Treat of here.

It is certain, that when we neither meet with Frosts, or North-East Winds, at the time that the Trees Blossom, and the Fruit knits; that is, in the Months of March, April, and May; I say, it is certain, that pretty often in some parts of the Tree there remains too much Fruit for it to be very Beautiful; for in the first place, in Relation to Kernel-Fruits, whether Pears, or Apples, it is most certain that every Bud commonly produces many Blossoms, and consequently may produce many Fruits; that is, to the number of Seven, Eight, Nine, and Ten, &c. In the second place, as to stone Fruits, altho' every Bud, excepting only plain Cherries, Morello's, white and black Hearts and Bigarreaux, produce but one single Fruit, (for indeed, one Peach-Bud, and one Plum-Bud only produce one Peach, and one Plum,) yet, as every one of their Fruit-bearing Branches, is commonly

burthened with a great number of Buds, all close to one another; it follows, that upon every one of those Branches there may remain an excessive quantity of Fruits, and there∣fore the same Argument we use for the Buds of Kernel-Fruits, may stand good for this; which is, that the more Fruit there knits upon one Bud, the smaller the Portion must be; which at the shooting out of the Stalk out of that Bud, distributes it self to every indivi∣dual Fruit; insomuch, that if the quantity were less, 'tis most certain that the Portion of every one of the remaining would be the larger, and consequently, the Fruit being the better fed, would be larger, and commonly better.

So likewise, the more Fruit there is upon a Branch of Stone-Fruit, Peach, Plum, or Apricock-Trees, &c. the smaller is the portion of Nourishment, which distributes it self to every Peach, and every Apricock, on such Branches; so that had there been less upon every Branch, the Fruit would certainly have been better fed, and consequently larger, and commonly better; since indeed, it is almost impossible to have at once Largeness, Beauty, and Goodness, when there is too much Fruit, either upon one and the same Bud, or upon one and the same Branch.

It follows from thence, that a Skillful Gard'ner, who takes care to make his Trees Blossom (which is in some measure in his Power to do) it follows, I say, that he must likewise take yet more care to leave no more Fruit on every Tree, and particularly on every Bud, and on every Branch, than in proportion to what he may judge, that the Tree, or rather the Branch, is capable to Nourish, in order to have that Fruit Beautiful.

I say, particularly the Branch; for, whereas the distribution of the Nourishment which is destin'd to every one, is perform'd at the first entrance of the Branch, according to the largeness of the Overture thereof, and not according to the multitude of the Fruit it is burthen'd with, nor the measure of Nourishment it may stand in need of; it follows, that the Fruit of every one only receives the benefit of that which Nature allows the Branch it grows on, without receiving the least benefit of that which it allows the Neighbouring Branches, every one of them having their peculiar Functions, and separated Works, which is so certain, that a Tree sometimes bearing but one or two Fruits, or at least, but a small quantity, that Fruit is no finer than if it had produc'd a far greater quantity.

It likewise follows from thence, that the encrease of Sap, or Nourishment, which may happen to every individual Fruit, only proceeds from the retrenchment that is made of the too great quantity of Fruit, which grew on every Bud, or upon the same Branch upon which it is found; as if every Bud, or every particular Fruit-Branch made particular Fa∣milies, having every one their particular Income, and each their Servants to nourish; in∣somuch, that as the one receives no benefit from the abundance of the others, so the Chil∣dren of every one in particular, have a greater share of nourishment; when the same food, which, for Example, might have been divided, or shar'd among Ten, is only divided among Two or Three.

Therefore it is certain, that we must leave but few Fruits upon every Bud, and upon every Branch, if we design to have them all both larger and finer; and whereas in Prun∣ing every Tree, I leave as many, and sometimes more good Buds, and good Fruit-Bearing-Branches upon it, than it seems capable to Nourish, being sensible of the hazards that are to be fear'd, before the Fruits of every one are safe; and being likewise desirous that all the Fruits of every Tree should be partly equally Beautiful, I never fail, after the Fruit is knit, to make an exact review of that which every Bud and every Branch contains, in order to leave no more on each Place, than it is likely to be able to Nourish plentiful∣ly.

It is likewise certain, that, pretty often, Nature seems to take care to purge, or disbur∣then it self of what it is over-burthen'd with; at least the Spring sometimes produces of those Frosts, and North-East Winds, we have already mention'd, which happen also pretty often between the Months of July and August; those kind of North-East Winds are Terrible shakers of Fruits; they beat down abundance of it, and some times too much, and that without the least discretion or measure, either in respect to the whole Tree, or to Every Branch, in so much that such years have a great Scarcity of Fruit, and often to Excess; But yet whatever Misfortune it may have caus'd, we must not fail still to make a review of what is remaining, to take away such from some Places, which in Prudence we Judge to be overburthen'd.

But then again, those Frosts and Stormy Winds do not always happen, and then the greatest part of the Fruit, which has knit, remains upon the Trees, and thus in the midst of Plenty, as to Number, we may really call our selves poor as to Beauty, and goodness, having nothing fine enough to Honour our Culture.

In such a Case, I think it very proper, to ease Nature of a Cousiderable part of its Bur∣then, in the following manner.

First, It is fit to tarry, until the Fruits be pretty large and well form'd, in order to take away such as are superabundant, and particularly to preserve the most Beautiful and most sizeable; since that great Number consists both of good and bad, to which end we must commonly tarry until the end of May, and the begining of June, at which time Fruit is large enough to facilitate our Choice.

But this Picking or Culling must be Perform'd sooner for Apricocks than any other Fruits: Whereby we derive an advantage, which is not met with on other Trees, a very good use being made of small green Apricocks, which we cannot make of other small green Fruits, at least hitherto we have not found the way of it, tho it were perhaps to be wish'd we might.

Secondly, We must be careful to allow every Fruit, as near as we can, as much Room as it may require, for the size we know it is to be of, when it approaches to Maturity, and that particularly for those kind of Principal Stone-Fruits, which have short Stalks, viz. Peaches, Pavies, or Purple-Peaches, Apricocks, &c. otherwise they would obstruct each other in growing, and it often happens that those that are equally large destroy each other, or at least the strongest get the better, that is, the largest destroys the smallest, and thus the Nourishment which those Wretches have receiv'd during two or three Months, is lost in vain; whereas it might have been imploy'd to advantage, had care been taken to take off some of those that were worst plac'd betimes; for by that means those that should have been preserv'd, would have receiv'd the benefit of the Nourishment which was wasted on their Neighbours.

It follows from thence, that you must never leave those kind of Fruits near one ano∣ther, tho' they are Commonly so, several of them growing together, witness Apricocks, or at least two and two, witness Peaches: For commonly the Blossom Buds of Peach Trees only grow two and two, both very close to one another, being only divided by a small Eye, for Wood, which is a small beginning of a Branch, which Places it self between the Two, and for the generality only shoots a few Leaves, and no Wood; but when it shoots Vigorously and Forms a pretty fair Branch, then there is no necessity of remov∣ing one of those Fruits which on both sides accompany the Branch; their Natural Situati∣on keeping them at sufficient distance, and without doubt both of them will prove very Fine, provided nothing else press them while they are thickning, which as I have said, must be carefully look'd to; but in case the Shoot be but weak, and slender, it must not hinder the removing of one of the two Peaches: Moreover, as those kind of small Shoots are commonly at a stand even in June, it is very proper to shorten them at that very time to an Eye or Bud, in order to save the Nourishment, which would be wasted in them to no purpose; besides those are the Shoots which generally cause a Confusion; it will suffice to leave a Leaf or two upon each, to shelter the Peach from the Heat of the Sun, and that during all the time, of it's Tenderest Infancy; Shade being so very necessary at that time, that without it the Peach might perish, being uncover'd, before its being come to some Maturity.

Autumn and Winter Pears, especially such as are recommendable for the largeness of their Size, for instance, Beurre or Butter-Pears, Bon Chretiens, Virgoulee, &c. do likewise stand in need of that Picking or culling of Fruits; by reason that too many of them being left together upon one Knob, they will seldom prove very fine, one will suffice upon each, or two at most, and even those must appear pretty large, according to the Season, and both of an equal Size, for the one being less than the other, will always remain so, and consequently ill favour'd, which far from deserving to be preserv'd, since it could not attain the Size it ought to have, only serves to wrong the other, which would have thriven the better had it remain'd alone upon that Bud.

As for Summer Pears, for instance small Muscat, Robins, Cassolets, Rousselets, &c. there is no such absolute necessity to Pick them, they must only be us'd like Plums and Cherries; they are Fruits of an Ordinary and Regular Size, and are commonly good of all Sizes, provided they be Ripe, and not tainted by Worms.

Thirdly, It must be noted, that, when the Branches of Peach-Trees, upon which in Pruning we have left as many Blossoms, as we thought fit, which, as we have already noted, is always to some Kind of excess; when those Branches, I say, do not appear in the Month of May to receive Considerable Succors of new Sap, so as to thicken, or to shoot fine Branches on their extremities: In that Case, as I have declared more at large in the

Treatise of Pruning, we must not only take away a great part of the Fruit which is aready knit upon them, but even shorten the Branch extreamly, and that to that part from which the finest Shoot proceeds; for otherwise certainly the best part of the Fruit would drop before its being Ripe, or at least would remain very small, and Consequently bad, it being most certain, especially as to Stone Fruit, that unless they approach to that Size which is proper to their kind, they never attain the delicacy they ought to have. The Peaches remain Shaggy and Green, and do not quit the stone; they are Sowrish, and Bitterish, the Pulp is Rough and Course, and often Mealy, the Stone is much larger than it should be, all which are certain Marks of an ill Peach.

Fourthly, The Pears which remain in too great a Number, are apt not only to hinder each other from thickning, but likewise to Rot, the Air and the Wind not having a free passage about them; this Inconveniency is sufficient to Inform us, that part of them must be taken away, that the remainder may be at more Liberty and Ease.

In my Opinion, it is very necessary to Observe in this Place, that it is absolutely necessary, especially in relation to Winter Bon Chrestien Pears, in the Months of April and May, which is the time in which they begin to appear Knit and Form'd, to be greatly Careful to destroy small Black Caterpillars which are very numorous at that Season, which other∣wise would gnaw the Rind of those Pears, which is the Reason we often meet with them crooked and uneven.

CHAP. II.

To Learn to uncover, at a proper Time, certain Fruits which require it.

FRUITS being thus pick'd upon every Tree, they thicken by degrees under the Leaf, some more, others less, every one according to its kind, some sooner and others later, each according to the time Nature has design'd for their Maturity; but whereas the Red, or Carnation Colour are necessary to certain Fruits, which may receive it, if not hinder'd, or not have it if hinder'd, (for there are some which absolutely can never attain it, what ever may be done, for Instance, White Peaches, Verte Longue, or Long-Green, Green Sugar Pears, White Figs, &c. there are likewise others, which, thonever so cover'd, ever receives the Colour of their Kind, for example Cherries, Rasberries, Strawberries, &c.

Whereas, I say, Colour as to certain Fruits, is a very material condition, in order to render them the more valuable, and that they can never attain that Colour in Ripening, unless the Rays of the Sun light directly upon them, it is proper at certain times to remove some Leaves which shade them too much, and consequently are prejudicial to them, in relation to that Colouring; nay more, they are prejudicial as to the Maturity of those Fruits, it being most certain for the generality, that a Fruit, much cover'd with Leaves, cannot Ripen altogether so soon as another, which is more expos'd, and moreover has not so much delicacy.

But a great deal of Prudence and Discretion must be us'd in this case; and care taken not to uncover Fruits until they have almost attain'd their proper size, and begin to lose the great Greenness they had till then; Fruits begin to thicken from the moment they are Knit, until the beginning of June; and afterwards, as Gard'ners say, they re∣main for a considerable space in a kind of Lethargy without thickening, at least Visibly; for I do not question but they thicken a little, and that above all some Matter enters into the Inside of the Body of the Fruit, since the Roots are continually preparing some, and sending it immediately upwards; this matter indeed remains press'd under the Rind, which is the reason Fruit is so hard at that time; but finally the time which is regulated for their Maturity approaching, this very matter, tho' condens'd, begins to rarify, and to extend in few days, whereby the Fruits begin to sosten and thicken more, and consequently to approach to Maturity.

This is the only proper time to uncover them, at two or three different times, and that during the space of five or six days; for if they wereuncover'd sooner, or all at once, the great heat of the Sun would certainly occasion a great disorder upon that tender

Rind, not yet accustom'd to the open Air; this truth is confirm'd by too many Experi∣ences, when either through the Ignorance of an unskilful Gard'ner, or by some unlucky Frosts, the Fruits are uncover'd before that time; the same cause which splits the Rind of Fruits, likewise dries up the Stalks, and Consequently the Fruit Withers and Rots, as it happens pretty often in Vinyards, which at the beginning of Autumn, are afflicted with some over hastly Frosts.

Let us return to the Colour, which is desirable for most Fruits, and say that it Imprints it self in few days on those that have been long cover'd, as it appears by Peaches, Apricocks, and especially on the Quince Apples, &c. and that therefore those are much to blame, who neglect the procuring of so great an advantage to their Fruit, when it is so easily done. Moreover, in order to render that Colour more Bright and Lively, it is not improper, to use a kind of Seringe made on purpose, with several little holes at the end of the Spout, like those of a Watering Pot, to water them twice or thrice a day, during the greatest heat of the Sun: Such a watering softens the Rind, and is of wonderful use to that end; especially for Apricocks and Peaches, and it likewise succeeds well for Bon Chreten Pears, and Vergoules, &c. Which remain somewhat Whitish, and which having a fine thin Rind, are Consequently susceptible to receive that fine Colour, which becomes them so well.

CHAP. III.

Of the Maturity of Fruits, and the Order Nature observes in it.

IN fine Fruits, having attain'd their Size and Colour, and the time of their Maturity being arriv'd, it behoves us to improve those rich Presents which Nature treats us with; it is a Liberality, or rather a Profusion it yearly bestows upon us, as if it thereby delighted to recompence the Cares, and Industry of the skilful Gard'ner which Culti∣vates it.

Two things are to be Consider'd in every Fruit, the Pulp of the Fruit and the Seed of the Fruit, the Pulp which is proper for the Nourishment of Man, and the Seed which lying in the heart of that Fruit as in a Sccabberd, receives its perfection by degrees, as the Pulp makes an end of Ripening; this perfection of Seed being apparently design'd for the Multiplication of the Specie of that Fruit; but this I only speak by the by, yet it appears often that the Seed is of no use at all.

Perhaps it may be urg'd in relation to that Seed or Fruit, that Nature seems to perform in Trees, in respect to its Fruits, the same thing in part, which it performs in Animals, in relation to their Young ones; No body can be Ignorant of the extraordinary earnestness of Animals to Nourish and Preserve their Young, and that to a certain Point, that is until they attain that perfection of Size, and Strength, which every one stands in need of, either to Subsist of themselves, or to labour afterwards to perpetuate their kind at the times which Nature prescribes

Insomuch, that till then those Animals Fathers and Mothers, can hardly suffer, without resistance, nay sometimes without Fury and Cruelty, any Body to touch, much less to take away their Young ones; but when those Young ones are grown big, Nature endea∣vouring on one side to Employ those Fathers and Mothers with the Care of a new Mul∣tiplication, and on the other hand to excite those Young ones, as it were, to make a Fi∣gure in their kind, inclines those Fathers and Mothers to abandon them, and to cease Nourishing and Protecting of them; insomuch that those Young ones being grown big, shift for themselves, no longer looking upon the Authors of their Being, or keeping them Company, otherwise than as indifferent Strangers.

Thus we see that Trees, which are really the Fathers of the Fruits, take care for a while to nourish those Fruits, and to preserve them, as if, if I may use the Expression, they Suckled, or Hatch'd, or Heated them with their Leaves, and that to a certoin Point, that is, until they are come to the full Perfection of their Size, and Maturity: But then, Nature seeing them in a Condition not only of Subsisting without the assistance of the Father that has produc'd them, but likewise of Perpetuating and Multiplying their diffe∣rent kinds, seems to withdraw the affection of the Tree; Insomuch, that before that time the Fruit seems to stick closer to the Tree than it does afterward: But when those Fruits cease

to receive the wonted help, they no longer stand in need of, and sticking no longer to the Tree by the former Tye, they quit their Father and Mother, they drop, they keep asunder, and lastly are abandon'd to themselves, &c.

As to the Pulp of those Fruits, it is to be Noted, that the degree which approaches nearest to what we call Rotteness, (which is their destruction,) is the perfection of their Maturity, insomuch, that they are never perfectly good to Eat, until being absolutely Ripe, they are near spoiling.

Therefore, unless the Gard'ner be careful to gather his Fruits, and make use of them, when they are entirely Ripe, he will be in danger of seeing them perish, some through a Rotteness, which begins at first in some part of the Body, as it happens with most Apples, and others by growing Mealy, as Peaches, some by growing Soft first, as many Pears do, especially such as are Tender, as Butter-Pears, others by growing Dry and Shaggy, as most Musc-Pears do; all which are different ways Conducing to Rotteness and Destruction. When this happens, Man is Subject to some inward checks of Nature, which seems to reproach him for his not having been Capable of Improving her Liberalities towards him.

It might be question'd in this Place what Maturity is, and how it is perform'd, both which questions are pretty agreeable, but of no great use to a Gard'ner. First, as to the Definition of Maturity, perhaps considering the great Proximity between it and Cor∣ruption, we can hardly give a better, than to say, that it is a beginning of Corrup∣tion.

The Truth is, that in speaking of a thing which passes for a Perfection, it seems pretty odd to make use of a Term, which expresses defect, and is really disgusting; but then to soften the signification of that Expression, it will suffice to say, that there are several degrees of Corruption; many Fruits are Corrupted and Rotten, without ever having been Ripe, which Corruption is a real defect, without the least Perfection. On the Con∣trary there are other Fruits, which never begin to Corrupt unless they have attain'd the utmost degree of Perfect Maturity, which Corrupion is really a defect for the Fruit, but is at the same time a Perfection for the Eater: Thus we may say, that a Piece of Wood which becomes a Circle, receives a degree of Corruption in relation to it self, since it ceases to have the Figure which Nature had given it, but it receives a Perfection in relation to the Workman, who forces it to take that bend, which it stands in need of for his use.

As to the manner, how Maturity is perform'd, the difficulty is much greater, and more puzling; for tho the Sun shining directly upon the Trees seems the only Author of the Maturity, of the Summer Fruits, by means of the Air, to which it has given a proper degree of Heat; yet we cannot say in general, that it is the only and last Author of the perfect Maturity of all manner of Fruits, since those which are gather'd without being Ripe, Ripen of themselves in the Store-House, where the Sun no longer shines directly upon them.

Therefore, it will be more proper and more likely to say, that the Sun indeed begins the Maturity of those Fruits, which remain upon the Tree, to a certain degree of Per∣fection, without which the Fruits shrink and spoil, without having enjoy'd the benefit of the real way of a good Maturity, and that after this the greatest Crudity having been thus consum'd by the Heat of the Sun, as all Natural Bodies are Subject to Corrupt, some sooner, others later; one part of the Fruits of the Store-House arrive at last to the Period of their Existance, which often proves the Point of an agreeable Maturity; another part likewise meets its end in a precipitated Rottenness, which may proceed either from too much Cold, or too much Heat, or too much Moisture, &c.

We might likewise Please our selves with asking, whether those Fruits, which are soonest Ripe, are better for the Health of Man, than those which are longer before they attain their Maturity. The like question might be made, as to those that are Perfum'd, and those that are not; such as have Kernels, and such as have Stones, &c. But whereas those Gallantries are of no use to the matter in hand, I shall Wave them, and proceed to the Instructions that are necessary, in order to learn to gather Fruits Seasonably, without losing my Time in needless Philosophy.

First, Then, Care must be taken to understand that Maturity rightly, as also that not only every kind of Fruit has a time, or regulated Season for its Maturity, but likewise that of every Particular Fruit in its Season, some have as it were, about Week to be good in, and no more, as the Rousselets or Russetins, Beurre or Butter-Pears, Bur∣gamets, Verte-Longue or Long-Green, &c. others not above a Day or two, and nothing beyond it, as Figs, Cherries, most Peaches, &c. some have a great deal longer, as Grapes,

Apples, and most Winter Fruits, for Instance, an Apple or Bon Chrestien Pear, will be good to Eat for a Month or six Weeks together.

Moreover, it must be Noted, that every kind of Fruit has its peculiar marks of Matu∣rity, either such as Ripen upon the Tree, or such as only Ripen some time after their be∣ing gather'd.

Altho Generally the Common time of Maturity of every kind, is within the Compass of the knowledg and understanding of Common Gard'ners, who commonly are pretty able to distinguish which are Summer, which Autumn, and which Winter Fruits, &c. Yet it is certain that the singular Marks of the Maturity of every Fruit in particular, to take them in the very nick of time, that is, the precise time of their Maturity, those Marks, I say, are properly reserv'd for the knowledg of a Gentleman who will use some Application a∣bout it, without which nothing is more Common than to see Fruits serv'd, either before their being Ripe, that is before they are good, or else pass'd Fruits, that is, too Ripe, and Consequently nought, and that at a time too, when without doubt, there are others, which having attain'd a just Maturity might supply the Room of those, and which for want of being us'd at that time, have the misfortune to lose their Delicacy, and the Value they deserv'd.

One would think that there were but little to be said upon the Subject of this Maturity of Fruits, and yet the extream Application I have us'd about it for a long while, has cou∣vinc'd me of the Contrary. And whereas all the Expence, all the Care, and all the Pains People have been at, to get Fruit, would prove vain, if having Compass'd it, they were still at a loss, not knowing how to make the good ••se of it they propos'd, I think my self Oblig'd not to Omit the least Circumstance of any thing that may seem Useful to that End.

I have already fully Explain'd in the Treatise of the Choice and Proportion of Fruits, which are the Fruits not only of every Season, but even those which are of every Month, so that perhaps it would be tiresome and needless to Repeat it here; so that the only thing in Question now is, to give a true Explication of what Relates to the Particulars of the Maturity of every Fruit, and if Possible to give the World a greater Insight into that Knowledg, than it has had hitherto.

Above all things, I would have an Ingenious Gard'ner so well Skill'd in that Point, as never to Present any of his Fruits, Especially of those that are Tender and Mellow, as Peaches, Figs, Plums, or Pears, unless they were in a just degree of Maturity, in so much that those they are presented to, may take the very first, without the least fear of being Disappointed, or at least may be able to chuse with the Eye, without being reduc'd to Picking, and Squeezing, that is to spoil the Fruit, before they can meet with any to their liking.

My Intention is, that this Picking and Squeezing, which hitherto may have been Par∣donable, or Tollerable, shall no longer be allowable, unless it be at the Tavern, or among ordinary People, and such as have little or no nicety, or else such as have no Fruit but what they Buy at the Market: And even there I would not have those Squeezers, Squeeze any where but near the Stalk, and that gently too, Sticking to the first which yields to the Thumb, to the End that one Part only may be tainted by this Squeezing (which occasions a beginning of Rottenness) besides they may assure them∣selves, that whatever Fruit is Ripe near the Stalk, is sufficiently so every where.

One of the most Considerable Defects I am to Combat here, is the Precipitation wherewith I observe most of the Curious are inclin'd, to begin betimes to Cause the Fruits of every Season to be Eaten; nothing is more Common than to see that when People have begun ill, they continue during all the Season to Eat their Fruit ill Condition'd, by reason that as Naturally the desire of Eating Fruit continues from the Moment we have begun to do it, it commonly happens, that in gathering the Second or Third time we commit the same Fault we had been guilty of at the First; whereas if we tarry to Eat those that are in Season until we have a sufficient quantity Ripe to give, we have ever after the satisfaction of Eating none but such as are incomparably good.

Therefore, I advise all Gard'ners never to begin gathering until there be a visible Appearance of a happy Continuance.

I am likewise to Combat another great Defect, of some of the Curious, which is sel∣dom or never to serve any Fruits until they be pass'd, the Number of those is very con∣siderable: Their fear of its not lasting long enough, or of not having enough for some occasion or other, or rather their Ignorance in point of Maturity, occasions all this disor∣der: Therefore I will Endeavour to Remedy those two Defects.

But first, I cannot forbear to admire, in this place, the Providence of Nature, not only in what relates to the succession of that Maturity, which we see in relation to every kind of Fruit, commonly to make the one Ripen in one Season, and the other in another; but also in what relates to the Order of the succession of the Maturity of the Fruits of every Tree in particular, which it conducts to Maturity by degrees; as if it really intend∣ed to allow Man, for the Nourishment of whom it seems to have produc'd them, time to consume them all, without suffering any to perish: And, indeed, it is observable, that Nature likewise observes the same Order for the forming, and the opening of the Blos∣soms of Trees, and Plants, which produce Fruit, as it does for Plants which only produce Flowers; for instance, Hiacints, Tuberoses, Carnations, &c. the Buds whereof only open by degrees, as if design'd thereby, the longer to delight the Senses of Humane Creatures.

In effect, tho' every Blossom of a Tree does not commonly last above four or five days in its perfection, yet every Tree appears in Blossom for a Fortnight, or three Weeks to∣gether, which certainly proceeds from that the Blossoms are Originally form'd, and after∣wards open one after another; those that are form'd first, open first, as those that Blossom first, have the advantage of producing those Fruits which ripen first; thus the second and third Blossoms, which are like so many younger Sisters, successively form'd after the El∣der, seem to perfect themselves, while those delight our Eyes; those second, and third Blossoms, I say, in imitation of a well-regulated Family, are not to open, and shew themselves, until the Elders have had their Career; so that those Elder fading, in order to produce the first Fruits of their Season, the young ones appear, to form those Fruits which are to be the second, and third, in Ripening, &c.

Although we have observ'd in every Tree an order in the succession of the Maturity of the Fruits, in relation to each other; we do not find this same Order of Succession of Ma∣turity observ'd for the Fruits of another Tree, of a certain kind, in respect to the Fruits of another Tree, which is of another certain kind, whether both have Blossom'd at one and the same time, or whether the one have Blossom'd sooner, the other later: For instance, all Peach-Trees Blossom at the same time, and yet some Peaches Ripen about the middle of August, and others do not Ripen 'till towards the end of October; and likewise other Fruit-Trees, either Pear, Apple, or Plum-Trees Blossom almost all in one and the same Month, and yet that kind which Blossoms first, does not always Ripen first; Nature Orders it otherwise, which I can give no Reason for: The Pear of Naples for Instance, is the first that Blossoms, and almost the last which comes to Maturity.

Therefore, as it is most certain, that Fruits ripen one after another, so it is likewise true, that, as Aurora Ushers in, or declares the coming of the Sun, so the Maturity of Fruits is declar'd, or preceeded by some particular marks, the knowledge of which, I have made it my business to study; and I am of Opinion, that I shall oblige the Curious, by acquainting them with my Observations.

'Tis certainly very difficult to be very exact as to the precise time of the just maturity of Fruits: Nothing is so common as to be deceiv'd therein, as we have already declar'd, either in gathering them too soon, or too late; besides, there are some in which the Point of Maturity is so momentary, as the white Butter-Pear, the Maudlin-Pear, the Doyeinné, the White of Andilly, &c. that whatever Care be taken, it is almost impossible to hit that Point of Maturity exactly, it passes so swiftly, when once 'tis come; neither am I fond of having many of those kind of Fruits.

As nothing is more delightful than to eat well-condition'd Fruits, nothing can be more disagreeable than to eat them green, or over-ripe: Not but in my Opinion, this last defect is less tolerable than the first, by reason that all Fruit that is over-ripe, far from having any tast, is commonly insipid, and mealy; whereas Fruit that is not quite ripe enough, though on the one side it may set the Teeth on edge, yet on the other it discovers part of its Vertue, by the briskness of its tast, and by its Pulp drawing near perfection; most Wo∣men in this, will be of my Opinion.

Moreover, as in this particular Case of Maturity we have two sorts of Fruit, of which, the one are good, from the moment they are gather'd; for instance, all Stone Fruits, some Summer-Pears, and all Red-Fruits, &c. it follows, that none of those should be ga∣ther'd until they be ripe, by reason, that how little time soever their Maturity may last, they preserve themselves much better, and longer upon the Stock than they would do be∣ing gather'd: There are other Fruits which are only good sometime after their being ga∣ther'd; for Example, most Kernel-Fruits that are Mellow, and constantly all Autumn, and Winter-Fruits. In Order to give true Rules to understand the Maturity of all man∣ner of Fruits, I think it will not be improper to begin here with those that are fit to be eaten as soon as gather'd; I shall not mention the others, until I come to the Treatise of the Store-Houses, or Fruit-Rooms.

CHAP. IV.

How to judge of the Maturity and Goodness of Fruits.

THree of our Senses have the gift of judging of the appearances of the Maturity of Fruits, Viz. Sight, Feeling for the most part, and Smelling for some, I say only to judge of the appearances, for the Tast is the only and real Judge to whom it belongs to Judge Solidly, and without appeal, as well of the Maturity, as of the Goodness, it is sufficiently known that there are some Fruits which are neither good nor agreeable to the Pallat, tho' actually ripe.

Sometimes one Sense alone is sufficient, to Judge certainly of the appearances, and even of the reality; for instance, the Eye alone suffices for all Red Fruits, and for Grapes, &c. it Judges with certainty of the Ripeness of a Cherry, a Strawberry, a Raspberry, a Bunch of Red, or Black Grapes; when both the one and the other are all over Painted with that fine Colour, which is natural to them: And on the contrary, when any part does want it, the Eye thereby judges, that it is an infallible Mark, that all the rest is not yet arriv'd to its just Maturity.

So likewise, Feeling alone judges very well of the apparent and effective Maturity of Tender Mellow Pears, whatever they be; so that even the Blind are as able to judge of it by feeling, as the most clear Sighted, both by seeing, and touching.

Sometimes it is necessary to imploy two of our Senses, Seeing, and Feeling, barely to Judge of the appearance of Maturity; for Example, for Figs, Plums, and Peaches, and even Apricocks, it not being sufficient for a Peach to appear ripe upon the Tree by its Beautiful Colour, red on the one side, and yellowish on the other, thereby to judge that it is fit for gathering; neither does it suffice after their being gather'd, for them to be with∣out Stalks, besides this fine Colouring, though commonly it is a good Mark, the Stalk al∣ways sticking to those kind of Fruits, until their being ripe, at which time the Fruit quits it with ease, and the Stalk remains fix'd to the Tree; but whereas this Stalk may have been sever'd violently, their appearing without a Stalk, may chance to prove a false Mark of Maturity.

Those Signs alone, as to those kind of Fruits, I say are not sufficient, to Judge abso∣lutely by the Eye of their Maturity, the Hand must likewise act its part, and concur therein, tho' not to touch it roughly upon the Tree (nothing is more offensive to me than those Gropers, who, to gather one according to their Mind, will spoil a hundred by the violent impression of their Unskillful Thumb) but I would have the Hand play its part in the manner I shall explain hereafter.

The Hand must likewise be us'd for a Peach that is ready gather'd, when we are not certain it was gather'd by a Skillful Hand, but then it must be perform'd very gently, and that, as I have already said, near the Stalk.

In case it be a Fig, whether gather'd, or not, it is allowable to touch it gently with the end of the Finger, almost in the same manner as a Chyrurgeon feels for the Vein in order to Bleed; for in case that Fig, after having appear'd to the Eye of a yellowish Colour, a shrivel'd Rind, with some Crannies, the Head hanging down, and the Body shrunk, likewise appears very Mellow under the Finger, and that being still upon the Tree, may be loosen'd by the least motion, it is very sit for gathering, and without doubt ripe, and good: But if, notwithstanding all those fine appearances, and all this Mystery, it does not easily quit the Tree, the gathering of it must be deferr'd for some days, it is never per∣fectly good, while it resists in gathering.

When a Fig having all the good Marks of Maturity, has been gather'd by a Skillful Gard'ner, and is afterwards presented to any body, they may freely, and without any rough feeling, judge it to be fit to receive, and eat.

We may say the same thing of a Plum ready gather'd, that is, that if besides the Beau∣tiful Colour it ought to have, which satisfies the Eye, and the Mellowness which Skillful Fingers have discover'd, without offering it any violence, it proves without a Stalk, being a little shrivel'd, and wither'd on that side; it may be inferr'd from thence, that it is per∣fectly ripe, and consequently fit to take.

Likewise if this Plum being still upon the Tree, finely Colour'd for the Eye, and Mel∣low for the Finger, comes off with ease, without a Stalk, it is without doubt fully ripe, but if not, like the Fig, itmust be left some days longer upon the Tree.

Two things may be inferr'd from this remark about the Stalk, the first is, that it must not stick to some kind of Fruits when they are ripe; for instance, Peaches, Plums, Straw-berries, Raspberries, &c. insomuch that none of those Fruits should be eaten, while the Stalk sticks close to them; and the second, that it may, and ought to stick to others, tho' never so ripe; for Example, to Figs, Cherries, Pears, Apples, &c. to which, the Stalks serve as an agreeable Ornament, and their being without it, would be a kind of Defect.

After having demonstrated, that in some Fruits, for Example, Red Fruits, the Eye alone is sufficient to judge of their Maturity, and in others, as Tender Mellow Pears, the feel∣ing only; as also that some others require both Seeing, and Feeling, Viz. Peaches, Plums, Figs, &c. we may add, that there are still some others in which Smelling may be ad∣mitted with Sight, in order to Judge with more certainty, for instance, Melons, after ha∣ving approv'd their Colour, Stalk, and Beautiful Figure, and examin'd their Ponderous∣ness, it is not improper to smell to them before we cut them, to be able, as 'tis thought, thereby to judge with more certainty of their Maturity, and Goodness, tho' at the same time I am convinc'd, that those which have the best scent, or savour, are not commonly the best: This Maxim is sufficiently well establish'd.

But, in fine, generally speaking, all the Marks above explain'd, to distinguish Matu∣rity, may chance not to be certain, and infallible; they are Exteriour Signs, which might be term'd Signs of Phisiognomy, and Consequently deceitful, something more is necessary in this Case, it requires matter of Fact; and therefore, as we have already declar'd, Tast only can decide in this Point; and, if I may use that Expression, that only can affix the Seal, and the Character of an absolute Decree, as a Judgment, which is to be Pronounc'd, particularly in the Case of Goodness; for let the Exteriour Marks be never so fa∣vourable, unless the Peach, Plum, and Melon please the Pallat, after having pleas'd the other Senses, as it happens sometimes, all the Preliminaries are useless; therefore we must submit all to the Pallat, however with this scruple, which I cannot remove, for the establishing of real goodness, which is, that Tasts are very different in themselves, and that a thing which may please one Man's Pallat, may displease another's: But this discussion is out of my Province; the Ancient Maxim (de Gustibus) forbids my med∣ling with it, and thus I can only speak of my own in particular, and at the same time applaud those who have the good Fortune of liking that which does not seem good to me: It would be Ridiculous in me to endeavour disabusing of them, since probably I shou'd only lose my labour.

CHAP. V.

Of the Causes of the forwardness, or backwardness of Maturity, in all manner of Fruits.

Fruits Ripen sooner, or later, first, according as the Months of April, and May are more or less warm, to cause the Trees to Blossom, or Knit.

Secondly, according as those Fruits grow against a good Wall, or good Shelter, that is, expos'd to the South, or East; and, in fine, particularly according as they are in a hot Climate, and light Earth.

All which Considerations are very material for the forwardness of Fruits; for the Months of April and May proving hot, the Fruits knitting the sooner, they will consequently ri∣pen the sooner; witness the maturity of Melons, which is an undeniable Truth; Fruits being, as it were, in respect to their Maturity, like Bread, in respect to its being Bak'd the sooner, or later, according to the time of its being put into the Oven.

When Fruits, tho' knit betimes, are in the open Air, or only against some Walls ex∣pos'd to the West, or North, &c. they will advance but little, for want of the assistance of the heats of the Spring, and likewise, if notwithstanding the advantage of a pretty hot Season, and happy exposure, they are in a Cold Climate, nay, tho' in a moderate Clime, the Earth being Course, and consequently Cold, they will not ripen so soon, as those which have all things favourable.

For Example, all manner of Fruits ripen sooner, in Languedoc, and Provence, which are hot Soils, than in the Neighbourhood of Paris, and even in those parts of Paris Fruits Ripen much sooner within the City it self, and in the Subburbs of St. Anthony, and St.

Germans, as well as at Vincennes, at Maisons, Carriere, &c. where the Earth is light, and hot, than they do at Versailles, where the Ground is cold, and course.

All those places are too near one another, to impute those differences in point of Matu∣rity to the Sun; besides, there is a difference between the immediate heat of the Sun in respect to the maturity of Fruits, and the immediate heat of the Fire, in respect to the Meat it Rosts, or Boils, Fire first affecting the Exteriour parts of the Meat which are nearest to it, before it performs its Function on the inside, which is at more distance; whereas the Sun Ripens the inward parts, before the Exteriour; in effect, the inward part of Fruits always Ripens first, and soften first, and likewise commonly is the soonest spoil'd.

If I may be allow'd to declare the Reason which to me seems most plausible in this Point, I shall say, in the first place, that Maturity proceeds from two Causes, the one near and immediate, which is the heated Air, the other not indirect, and distant, and that is the Sun which heats that Air; so that the Function of the Sun is to heat the Air as much as the Winds will allow; and the Function of the Air so heated, is to impart its heat to the Earth, and so to all the Plants; this Earth thus heated, causes first the Principle of Life which lies near the Root to Act, and then the Root it self, which consequently pre∣pares Sap as soon as it is put in Action; and that Sap, at the same time, rises to perform its Function into all the Superiour parts, where it can penetrate.

In the second place, I shall say, that the Air of every Climate is in probability compos'd, or at least considerably mix'd with the Vapours, and Exhalations which rise from the Earth of that Climate, which in my Opinion, is the Reason of Peoples saying, that the Air of such a Country is good, and the Air of such another is bad.

Thirdly, I shall say, that it follows from thence, that that Air is more or less easie to be heated, according as the Earth, from which those Vapours rise, is more or less cold, and material; for those Vapours participate altogether to the Nature of that Earth, and therefore that as in light Earths the Air sooner receives the impression of heat, by reason of its being form'd by more subtle Vapours, it consequently the sooner heats both that Earth, and the whole Body of the Tree, and the Plant it nourishes; which is the Rea∣son that it is the Roots being sooner heated at such times, and in such Earth, and con∣sequently the Saps being sooner prepar'd, which form inwardly in those Fruits the first degrees of Maturity.

Therefore it is certain, that the Air, according to its being more or less thick, is also more or less apt to receive heat; and that according to its degrees of heat, it either ad∣vances, or does not advance Maturity, as it has advanc'd, or not advanc'd the heat of the Earth.

Therefore the forwardness, or backwardness of Maturity, depends on the Conditions above explain'd, in so muuch, that they must all Combine; that is, that Fruit in order to Ripen betimes, must Knit betimes; and next, must meet with a favourable Exposure, a hot Clime, and light Earth.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Particular Marks of Maturity in every kind of Fruit, and first of Summer-Fruits, which Ripen altogether upon the Tree.

ACcording to the Natural Order of the Maturity of Fruits of every Season, the Ho∣nour of Eldership certainly belongs to early Cherries, and next to Strawberries, Raspberries, and Goosberries, &c. The first commonly begin to appear in the Month of May, and that a little sooner, or a little later, according as the Conditions we have Ex∣plain'd, are more or less favourable: Strawberries begin to Blossom about the middle of April, or a little before, in good Situations, and in cold places, not before the latter end of April, or in the beginning of May; and happily, none of those small Frosts which are apt to blacken, and spoil those first Blossoms intervening, Ripe Strawberries may be expected at a Months end: And as for early Cherries that have Blossom'd about the middle of March, we may expect to have them about the beginning of May, not altogether Ripe, but half Red, with which Colour they may serve as well, as if they had attain'd a full Ma∣turity, since they are only considerable, and valued for their Novelty, especially by La∣dies;

for after all, at that time it is only a little colour'd Cloak, which only serves to co∣ver a little sower Pulp, and a large Stone; and therefore they stand in need of the assi∣stance of a Confectioner, to require an Excellency, which the Gard'ner, or rather the Sun has not had time to afford them.

The Trees of a pretty Cold Climate Blossom almost as soon as those of a Climate that is somewhat hotter, by Reason that the opening of those Blossoms seems to be perform'd independantly from the Action of the Roots, witness the Branches that Blossom, being Cut, (the bare force of the Rarefaction caus'd in the Bud, by the presence of the first Rays of the Sun, is capable of producing this Effect) but as for the maturity of every Fruit, it can only be perform'd, and perfected; First, by a great Concurrency of the Operation of the Roots, and Secondly, by a certain degree of Heat in the Air, which is necessary for the Perfection of that Master-piece: Now this Heat, both in the Earth, and in the Air, can only proceed regularly from the Rays of the Sun; and yet I dare affirm, that I have been so happy as to imitate it in little for some small Fruits; I have made some to Ripen five or six Weeks before their time; for instance, Strawberries at the end of March, and Pease in April, Figs in June, Asparagus, and Cabbage-Lettuce in December, January, &c. But we can find no facilitations to imitate this Heat in Great, to cause the Fruits of Large Trees to Ripen in an extraordinary manner; therefore it is apparent, that tho' Nature has abandon'd the Earth to us, leaving it in our Power to Heat some Portion thereof, to make it produce against its will, by means of a Foreign borrow'd Heat, what we have a mind to; has, notwithstanding, reserv'd to it self in a particular manner, the Universal Faculty of the maturity of Fruits; this maturity in relation to us, is the Finisher, and Perfection of the production of the Earth; in so much, that without it, all our Cares and Industry for the generality, only afford us some hopes, which often prove false, and deluding.

I have said heretofore, that we may begin to have some early Cherries, in the Month of May, those small Fruits have an open Field at that Time, they are the only that ap∣pear in our Gardens, and that grace our Tables; they are Rival'd by no others until the end of the Month, which is the time of the displaying or opening the Grand Magazine of the other Red Fruits; and these remain in possession until the end of June, and to∣wards the middle of July; for the early Cherries which seldom appear but in China-Dishes, and in small quantity, are follow'd close by Strawberries, with this difference; that these, to endear themselves the more, above the Cherries that have preceeded them, appear with a Charming scent, and in prodigious quantity; that is, in full Basons, and would think themselves disgrac'd to appear as poorly attended, as their Predecessors.

Among these Strawberries some are Red, and others White, the last are seldom Ripe until they are grown yellowish, and the others are never good, until they are perfectly and Universally Red; and neither of them are eatable, until they have attain'd a Con∣siderable size.

I may say by the by, that those Strawberries that are soonest Ripe, are those that have Blossom'd first, and that those that are nearest to the body of the Plant, are those that Blossom'd first; I will draw some Instructions in the Treatise of the Kitchen-Garden, in order to our getting of them always Finer, Larger, and Better, from that part, than otherwise we should do.

The Strawberries that grow Naturally, and of themselves, which most People are fond of, are accompany'd towards the middle of June with Red and White Raspberries, Cur∣rans, Hearts, and Plain Cherries, of which, some are somewhat earlier, and not so good; others later, which are larger, and sweeter, and better, either Preserv'd, or Raw: Bigar∣reaux also come in among them, and even Morrello's, but commonly they both tarry until the hurry of Red Fruits is somewhat over; not but they might appear sooner, for really those Bigarreaux, and Morrello's are admirable Fruits: The first are Ripe, as soon as they are half Red, but the others do not attain their perfection of maturity, until they are almost Black. The order of the maturity of all those Fruits is the same with what we declar'd for the Strawberries, that which has Blossom'd first in every Tree, likewise Ripens soonest.

Here's the Month of June provided for, it is call'd the Month of Red Fruits, and with Reason: For those kind of Fruits are met with wherever one goes; we have said that the marks of their maturity is that Red Colour which surrounds them; it commonly begins at that part which is most immediately expos'd to the Sun, and is soonest Ripe; In fine, by degrees that Colour spreads all over, and when the liveliness of that Red begins to turn to an obscure Red, excepting only the Morello's, they draw towards Cor∣ruption.

Among Red Fruits, those that have Stones, tho' never so ripe, do not easily loosen from the Branch, as other Fruits do, they wither upon it, instead of falling, they must be pluck'd off, and that with some Violence.

All those kind of Red Fruits should be the only ones during the whole Month of June to fill up the Stage of the maturity of the Fruits of that Season, but that some Espaliers, expos'd to the South, in Dry Sandy Grounds, begin to produce towards the end of June some little Muscat-Pears, and some early Musck-Peaches.

Those small Pears are Extraordinary good, if they be allow'd the time of Ripening; the first marks of their maturity appear in them as in all other Pears of every Season, that is near the Stalk, which part must appear a little yellowish, and somewhat Transparent; and afterwards, for a greater mark of full maturity, that yellowness must appear a little through a certain Tan'd Colour, and a certain Red, which covers the remainder of the Rind; and Lastly, they must begin to drop of themselves, without any exterior violence; at which time it will be proper to gather, and eat them. I have sufficiently declar'd my Opinion as to the goodness of that Pear, in the Choice of Fruits.

When People do not allow themselves the time of examining about the Stalk of the Pears, to judge of their maturity; they must, as I have said, judge by the natural drop∣ping of those kind of Pears, but then the Worms must have no share in it, and they must neither be grown upon a sick Tree, nor upon a sick Branch; Pears that are infected with Worms drop soonest, and soonest seem Ripe, without really being so, their defect is not much conceal'd, it appears generally in the middle of the Eye of the Pear, and when it does, there's no depending upon it for good Fruit.

All manner of Fruits, borh Stone, and Kernel, Ripen sooner upon sickly Trees, than upon sound ones; but we must not suffer our selves to be deceiv'd by the size, for it often happens, especially in relation to Peach-Trees, that the Fruits of those languishing Trees are larger than those which grow upon Vigorous Trees; but then that Largeness, as I may say, is only a swelling, or a kind of Dropsie, which is the Reason that the Pulp of those Fruits, that are larger than they should be, is generally insipid, or bitter, and disgusting.

Peaches that drop of themselves, are contrary to what we have been saying of Pears; by reason that Peaches which drop thus of themselves, or loosen, are commonly pass'd, and consequently naught, in so much, that they should not be presented as good to any body, tho' not bruis'd by the fall, as it happens commonly.

But that Rule does not commonly extend to small Peaches in their kind, nor especially to early or late Purple Peaches, nor to Pavies; those kind of Fruits which can hardly ever be too ripe, are commonly very good when they drop, insomuch, that when they drop without being shook, it is a good mark of their Maturity, as well as Goodness.

The same thing may be said of Plums, since we always shake Plum-Trees in order to get good Plums; tho' indeed this Method is more particularly for common Plums, than for Perdrigons, Rochecourbons, and other Principal Plums, by reason that one of their Chief Excellencies consisting in the Flowry Beauty of their Complexion, the which excites the Appetite of the most moderate: A fall, or their being finger'd too much, spoils that Flower which should be preserv'd carefully; therefore those that are really Curious, never touch them otherwise than with the extremity of two Fingers.

Let us now return to our early Peaches, and say, that the Part which ripens first in them, as well as in all other Fruits, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Apricooks, Melons, &c. is commonly the inward part, I mean, that which is nearest to the Stone, and moreover, that which in relation to them appears first ripe to the eye, is directly contrary to what we have said of Pears; for whereas in Pears that part which is nearest to the Stalk ripens first, in these it is commonly the Extremity which is opposite to the Stalk, by reason that that part enjoys the benefit of the Sun sooner, and longer than any other; but when the Beams of the Sun lay upon no part of these early Peaches, it seems that the heat which Reigns in the Air, ripens them all over equally.

We begin to Judge of their approaching Maturity, when we perceive that they begin to thicken extreamly (which we call taking Pulp) and when at the same time, their green whitens considerably, and their down begins to fall; but unfortunately for those poor Fruits, or rather for Nice Pallats, and such as have Skill; those first appearances of ma∣turity are commonly mistaken for perfect maturity, and so they are gather'd, while they are still as hard as Stones, instead of staying until they are grown Mellow, as they should be; and therefore, excepting a few of the first, which are serv'd pretty unseasonably, most of them pass through the fire, before they appear at Table.

I must not omit saying in this place, that the Peaches which do not attain the size their kind requires, commonly drop before their being ripe, and when they seem to ripen,

their Rind remains downy, their Pulp green, their Water bitter, and the Stone Larger than those which have taken more Pulp.

Neither must I forget to say, that as a little after the knitting of the Fruit, generally a considerable part of it drops, so it often happens that at the time the maturity ap∣proaches, a great number of the Fruits fall, and that about a Fortnight, or Three Weeks before that maturity, as if the Tree was sensible of its being over-burthen'd, and would thereby give us notice that the good time is approaching; and indeed it is commonly ob∣serv'd at that time, that a good number of Large Fruits drop, whereby those that re∣main, grow the finer, and the better; and as we have already said, it had been much the better for them, had the Gard'ner taken Care to perform what time has now done.

People are overjoy'd to see those early Peaches ripe at the end of June, and to enjoy them long, which is not difficult, provided we have several Trees of them in different Exposures; they are incomparable, when they are well-Condition'd, both as to size, and maturity; but then we are commonly expos'd to the vexation of tarrying until towards the end of July, for the Peaches that succeed these first, and those we call Troy-Peaches; which Peaches, provided they be throughly ripe, charm every body by the fineness of their Pulp, the perfume of their Water, and the deliciousness of their Tast; their maturity is known as in other Fruits, First by the size, Secondly by a fine red Colour on that side which is expos'd to the Sun, and a light Transparent Yellow in the other parts: Thirdly, by a thin, soft, mellow Rind, somewhat like Satin; any of these marks being wanting, the Fruit cannot be ripe, and therefore should not be gather'd.

Those Troy-Peaches are often abus'd as well as the early Peaches, and all other Peaches at the entrance of their maturity; that is, they are gather'd upon the least Symptoms, without staying until they have attain'd that degree of goodness, they never obtain 'till they are throughly ripe; and this defect proceeds, either from the ignorance, or liquorish∣ness of the Person, who gathers them out of desire to eat, or else out of a silly avidity of gain, which reigns in the Heart, and Eyes of those who are uneasie until they expose them to sale in the Market.

The Month of July affords us many other Fruits besides Troy-Peaches, but the Month of August surpasses it in point of abundance, for it affords us not only an infinity of Plums, but also a vast quantity of Kernel-Fruits; among which, are the Cuisse-Madame, or Lady-Thigh, the Gros-Blanquet, the Sans-Peau, or without Rind, The Espargne, or Sparing, the Orange-Pears, the Summer-Bon-Chreitien, the Cassolets, the Robins, the Russettings, &c. the maturity of which is known, either by their dropping, or not resisting when they are gather'd, or else by a certain yellow colour, which appears in the Rind, especially near the Stalk. Among Plums we reckon the Perdrigons, the Mirabelles, Imperials, St. Ca∣therine, Roche-Courbon, Queen Claude, Apricock-Plums, &c. To those Plums are joyn'd about the middle of August some fine Peaches, Viz. First, the two Magdalens, the white and red, the Mignonne, the Bourdin, the Rossane, &c. all which are large: In the second place, the Alberges, both red, and yellow, the Cherry-Peach, the one with white Pulp, the other with yellow, &c. those Peaches, as well as those that are to succeed them, have no other particular marks to discover their maturity, than those I have already mention'd for early, and Troy-Peaches, which are a reasonable size, a red and yellowish colour without any mixture of Green, and especially their coming off with ease at the least pull or motion of a Skilful hand; all these Fruits are fit to eat as soon as gather'd, and require no Store-House, at least to ripen, Peaches never ripening off the Tree, so that it is in vain to gather them before they are perfectly ripe; but as I have said elsewhere, a day or two's repose in the Store-House, far from injuring of them, affords them a certain coolness which is very proper for them, and which they cannot acquire, while they remain upon the Tree.

The Month of September is famous for a world of the Principal Peaches, the Chevreuse, Hasty Violet, Persique, Admirable, Pourpree, or Purple-Peach, Bellegarde, White d'An∣dilly, besides Brugnons, and white Pavies, &c. There are also some Summer Calville Apples, and some good Pears, which keep these Peaches Company, and may be eaten off the Tree, Viz. The Melting-Pear of Brest, brown Orange-Pears, &c. At least they will not keep long, the Pears grow too mellow, and the Apples grow downy; but yet at this time Kernel-Fruit will begin to require a little rest in the Store-House, or Conservatory, and the best way to judge of their maturity, is to squeeze them gently with the Thumb about the Stalk, to try whether they yield, or no.

The Month of October is likewise to be valued for the last Admirable Peaches it produces in the open Air, or in the West, Viz. The Nivet, and latter Violets, besides the Large Red, as well as Yellow Pavies, without omitting the fine latter yellow Peaches, all growing in good Expositions. The Butter-Pear, Verte Longue, or Long Green,

Doycnneé, or Deanery, Lansac, Green Sugar-Pear, Burgamot, Vine-Pears, Messire John, &c. begin to Signalize themselves at this time, but then they must be kept some time in the Store-House; we will speak more particularly of this, in the Treatise of Store-Houses; in the mean time, it will not be improper to speak about the means of preserving, and transporting the tender Fruits we have mention'd, sound, and unbruis'd.

CHAP. VII.

Of the Situation that is proper for the Fruits that are gather'd, in order to Preserve them some time.

IN Order to end what I have begun, I am now only to speak of the means of Preser∣ving, as much as can be, good Fruits after their being gather'd, and of the means of transporting them when it is necessary: As to the preservation, I mean such in particular, as are not gather'd until they have attain'd a full maturity, and such as being extream tender and puny, make an end of acquiring it after their being taken out of the Garden, both the one and the other losing their Lustre and Beauty to a high degree, by being ei∣ther bruis'd, rub'd, scratch'd, or spotted with little black Spots; such are your Figs, and Peaches with their fine Colour, and delicate Pulp; such are Plums with the fine flower that covers them, and Butter-Pears that are perfectly ripe; This has no relation to other Fruits that are neither so choice, as Cherries, Morello's, Bigarreaux, &c. Nor so easily spoil'd, as Melons, Pavies, hard Pears, baking Pears, all Apples, &c.

I suppose that every Fig, every Peach, and every Plum has been gather'd with all the Caution I have heretofore explain'd, insomuch, that in the taking them off the Tree, no∣thing was wanting to their perfection; I also suppose, that in the gathering of them, care has been taken to lay them in Sives, with tender soft Leaves, as Vine-Leaves, &c. And to place them all asunder, that they may be no wise squeez'd, nor any laid a top of one ano∣ther, by reason that the weight of the upermost would be capable of brusing the under∣most, and that particularly for Peaches, and Figs, for Plums are not so heavy as to hurt one another.

Now, in order to preserve those kind of Fruits some days, that is, two or three days, especially the Peaches; they must be laid either in Closets, or Store-Houses, which must be very dry, and clean, and full of Shelves, the Windows being always open, unless it be in very Cold weather: Hereafter I will explain the Conditions of a good Store-House, or Conservatory; you must lay a finger thick of Moss upon those Shelves, which may serve, as it were for a kind of Quilt, taking care that the Moss be very dry, and has no ill scent; the Reason of which is, that every Peach so plac'd, sinks of it self into the Moss, and lies softly, without being squeez'd by any of the others. I dare affirm that it is with Peaches, as with Melons, which are better to eat a day after their being gather'd, and left at a distance from the Sun, than Just after their being gather'd, at which time they are lukewarm: Altho' it is not good to touch Fruit much, either upon the Tree, or in the Store-House, yet, provided it be perform'd by a Skilful hand, it will not prejudice it; therefore, while those Peaches lay in the Store-House, they must be carefully visited once a day, to see whether there appears no marks of rottenness, at the same time removing all such that are in the least tainted, otherwise they would spoil others.

It is necessary to place Fruits well in the Store-House, those that have not those regards, lose abundance of them by their own fault: the best situation for Peaches, is, to be plac'd, not only upon Moss, but upon the part which Joyn'd to the Stalk, otherwise they are apt to bruise; Figs must be laid sidewise, by reason that if they were laid upon the Eye, they would lose their best juice; as for Plums, whereas they have no great weight they may be laid any how, as well as Cherries.

The best situation for Pears, their Figure being Pyramidal, is to be plac'd upon the Eye, with the Stalk upwards; it is indifferent whether Apples, the Figure of which forms a perfect Cube, lay upon the Eye, or Stalk, which is always very short, both these Fruits will preserve themselves well enough upon the bare boards, besides, for a while they may lie upon one another, when first brought out of the Gardens, until they approach to ma∣turity; but above all, I would not allow them any Bed or Covering of Straw, or Hay, by reason, that commonly it gives them an ill scent.

The best way for Grapes is to hang them up in the Air fasten'd to a packthread, or a∣bout a Hoop, or six'd to some Beam; besides, they may be laid safe enough upon Straw,

and when any body desires to preserve them until February, March, or April, they must be gather'd before they are perfectly ripe, otherwise they are apt to rot too soon; besides, Care must be taken once in two or three days to pick all the rotten ones carefully.

All manner of Apples will last until March, and some until May, and June; for in∣stance, the Reynettes, or French Peppins, Apis, Rose-Apples, Francatie, &c. Care being taken that the greatest Mark of their maturity commonly consists in being somewhat wrink∣led, excepting the Apples of Api, and the Rose-Apples, which never wrinkle; they are known to be ripe when all the green which appear'd in the Rind is turn'd yellow.

The destiny of Pears, as to their lasting, is very different, those that last longest, are the Bon-Chrestiens, St. Lezin, Dry-Martins, Martin-Sires, Baking-Pears, Double-Blossoms, and some Franc-reals, &c. I will speak more at large of them in the Treatise of the Store-Houses.

We have set down elsewhere which are commonly the Pears of every Month, and therefore it would be useless to repeat it here: Red Fruits last but little after their being gather'd, Strawberries, and Raspberries are seldom good after a day, Cherries, Morello's, Bigarreaux, and Currans may perhaps last a day longer; good Fruits should be serv'd upon the Table in the same situation they are plac'd in the Store-Houses, in order to make a pretty show, excepting only Pears, which in that Case require some agreeable Cimetry for the Construction of the Pyramids.

With all these Precautions, Fruits may be easily preserv'd as long as they can last, no∣thing can prejudice them, but great Winter Frosts, which are very dangerous, by reason that they may penetrate into the Store-Houses, and so reach the Fruits, and Fruit that has once been Frozen, preserves no manner of goodness, and immediately decays; those that have no Store-Houses made on purpose, with all the necessary regards, I shall explain in the sequel, and who have only a Closet, or some ordinary room, are in danger of losing all their Fruit in bad Weather, unless they take a great deal of care to cover them well with good Blankets, or place them between two Quilts, or else carry them into some Cellar, until the danger be past, at which time those poor Prisoners are taken out of their Dungeons, to be put at Liberty again in their former Places.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the Transportation of Fruits..

THE Difficulty in question has no relation to any Pears, being newly gather'd, nor to any hard Baking Pears, tho' ripe, provided, in case they be Winter Bon-Chretien Pears, every Pear be wrapt up in a piece of Paper; neither has this difficulty any relation to any Apples whatever; those kind of Fruits tho' laid pell mell in Baskets, or Panniers, will indure the being carry'd, either upon a Horse, or in a Cart; but we cannot do so with tender mellow Pears when they are ripe; in that case they are like the Figs, and Peaches, &c. their delicacy and tenderness requires a gentle usage, like Beautiful young La∣dies, otherwise the agitation of the Carriage would bruise and blacken them, and consequently would deprive them of their greatest Ornaments, and even of their chief goodness.

This Prelude conducts us insensibly to establish, that Peaches, Figs, Strawberries, Mo∣rello's, &c. in order to their being transported from one place to another, require Water-Carriage, or the Back or Arms of a Porter without any jogging, and above all, if they be Peaches, they must be laid upon that part which is fix'd to the Stalk, without touching one another, and be laid first upon a Bed of Moss, or tender Leaves laid pretty thick; and in the second place, wrapt up in Vine-Leaves, and so well order'd, that they may not move out of their places; and finally, in case several Beds be laid over one another, a good separation must be made between them of Moss, or of a reasonable quantity of Leaves, the last Couch must likewise be pretty well cover'd with Leaves, and the whole wrapt up with a Cloth, well fasten'd, in order to keep all that is contain'd in the Basket close, and in good order: The safest way would be to do with Peaches, what I am going to prescribe for Figs, but then the inconvenience is, that it would be impossible to carry any considerable quantity at a time. For Figs you must have Sives not above two inches deep, and lay a bed of Vine-Leaves at the bottom of them, and place the Figs sidewise, wraping them up first, asunder, each in one of the said Leaves, taking care to order them so well, and so

neatly close to one another, that the motion of the transportation may not be able to re∣move them, and never lay two a top of one another: This first and only Bed being made, it must be cover'd with Leaves, and next with a Sheet of Paper, neatly fix'd round about the Sive, and moreover stay'd with some small Packthread, in order to keep the Fruit close into the said Sive.

Good Plums being laid up, without any Ceremony, in any Basket, or Sive, with a good Bed of Leaves or Nettles at the bottom of it; the top must also be cover'd with Net∣tles, after having first taken off the thickest down, which being done, the whole must be Cover'd with a Linen Cloth, or some Sheets of Paper, fasten'd with some Pack-thread:

Common Plums may be transported in great Baskets, barely putting small Leaves under, and over them.

Apricock-Plums are sent from Tours to Paris upon Messengers Horses, with a great deal more precaution apart, for they are put in Boxes stuff'd with Houads, every one of them be∣ing moreover separately wrapt up in Houads; but that Expedient is Chargeable, besides it is impossible to carry many at a time.

Strawberries being likewise order'd in double ridges, in Baskets made on purpose, stuff'd with leaves at the bottom, and round about; it will suffice to cover them with a fine Wet Piece of Linnen, abundance of them are carryd thus, according to the bigness of those Baskets.

Grapes, either Muscat or Chasselas, are partly carry'd in the same manner I have noted for Peaches; nay with less Ceremony, since it is not very material to separate every Bed with Leaves.

Muscat Grapes, are sometimes sent into distant Countrys, and they are put in Cases fill'd with Bran, and carry'd upon Horses or Mules, care being taken that the Bunches may not touch one another; But that is an Expence only proper for Kings, or very great Lords.

For the Transportation of our Principal Fruits, when they are only to be sent a Days Journey at most, I commonly use certain square Baskets, divided in the Inside in∣to several Stories, which are at a convenient distance from one another, to place our Sives full of Fruit; those are either made of very Close Ozier, and then they need no other covering to secure them from Dust, or else of loose Ozier, and then they must be cover'd with Sere-Cloath; moreover, those Baskets open sidewise like a kind of Press, or else at the top, and then the lowest Story must be fill'd first, and a little covering laid over it which serves to close this first, and to bear the Second, and thus to the uppermost; a small Pad-lock may be fixed to it, at pleasure, to which two Keys may be made, the one for those to whom the Fruit is sent, and the other remaining with the Person who sends it, by which means the Fruit is convey'd safely.

CHAP. IX.

Of Store-Houses, or Conservatories for Fruits.

IF in that very season, when Kitchen-Gardens Charm most by their Greenness, and neatness, Fruits are notwithstanding their chief Ornament, what advantages, or rather what Consolations are not those Fruits capable of affording us, when in the middle of a dismal, Melancholy Winter, we are provided with a Considerable store of them, and even some of them Infinitely better than any the Summer had supplied us with. There is no denying that we are all naturally inclined to have a Violent Passion for Fruits, and by that very reason, as they are delicious to the Palate, we easily perswade our selves that they are of use for our Health; Physitians who are to give no Rules against Infirmities, are so far from opposing this Opinion, that they Establish it as Infallible, and often prescribe the use of Fruits as Soveraign Remedies; for which reason most People are at present Curious of Fruits, and many Gentlemen are proud of expressing their Earnestness in Rearing them: Nature seems to delight in favouring that Curiosity, it yearly produces abundance of Fruits; the Summer produces but too many, and Autumn yields a sufficient quantity; but the diffi∣culty is to have some in the Winter, which is a Dead, Infertile Season; therefore we should make it our study to preserve such, as are only good a considerable while after their being gather'd; they are Expos'd to a long Journey, in which they are to run many hazards: It does not only require a careful man, but also a Place that may be altogether proper to preserve

them; we must on one side Combat Cold which destroys all those it reaches, on the other hand we must prevent all ill scents, which would spoil what the Weather had spar'd: This Place is commonly call'd a Store-House or Conservatory, which without doubt must have its Rules, and particular properties, since it is so useful, and is to produce such good Effects. It is to be suppos'd that I must needs be skill'd in that Point, considering the Great and Ancient use I have made of it in Gardens; and Consequently I should certainly be blam'd, unless I declar'd what my Experience has taught me in relation to Store-Houses, ei∣ther to avoid the defects that are to be fear'd in it, or to attain the success that is to be hop'd for.

Let other Curioso's, which are in so great a Number, cry up their Closets as much as they please, let them Invite every body to come and see them, let them be careful in making rich Descriptions of them, I am so far from finding fault at it, that I am one of the first to Commend them, I Visit them with a singular satisfaction, and take great delight in looking upon such things as are most Extraordinary, not only for the matter, but likewise for the Workmanship; I say, let People cry up those Collections of Miracles of Art, but at least let them allow those that are Curious in Gard'ning, the liberty of boasting of their Store-Houses of Fruits, which are their Closets; not that they contain any Originals, or Anti∣quities, far from it, their greatest Value consists altogether in Novelty, but then they are excellent Novelties; that is, they are productions of Nature, which renew, and take new Vigour Yearly: Productions which indeed are only, if I may use the Expression, so many Copies of its first Productions at the Birth of Time, which at the same time surpasses the Merit of those Originals: By reason that this Nature having been Charm'd at first, with the Beauty of its first Essays, has taken delight in repeating them as often as it could, as if it really Study'd more and more to improve, even to that degree, that it suffers it self to be Conduct∣ed a little by Culture, seeing that Culture really contributes to the Perfectioning of its new Productions.

This being granted, I am of Opinion, that no Body will deny that this Closet deserves to be seen, and in truth nothing can be more agreeable to sight than this Store-House, where at the first Entrance you discover a kind of well contriv'd Room, of which the size is proportion'd to the Occasion for which it was Built, where you discover in the next Place, a fine Edg d-Table, which takes up the middle of the Place, and is convenient and necessary to order the Baskets, or China-Basons that are to be serv'd, where finally you discover the four Walls Garnish'd, and see all the Shelves well Order'd, and fill'd both in Autumn and Winter with fine Fruits; those Fruits differently plac'd with flying Labels, to express their kinds, and Maturity in relation to the Sequel of Months; thus Burgamots are order'd in one Place, Virgoules in another, Ambrets here, Thorn-Pears there, Leschasserirs here, the St. Germans there, Bonchretien here, Bugy there, Baking Pears here, there the Apples, with the same Distinctions observ'd for the Pears; here Fruits that drop of themselves, there such as have been gather'd in Season, here those of the North, there those of good Espalies; here those of High-Standards, there those of Dwarfs, there the Fruits that are Ripe in such a Month, there those that do not Ripen so soon, &c. with this Constant order, that those that are Ripe are always most within reach, both for the Hand and Eye, and those that are not Ripe yet, according to their Degree, plac'd upon higher Shelves, where they expect the Season that is to ripen them, and Consequently to be remov'd in the Room of those that are Pass'd; those first Disappear after having perform'd their Part, and finish'd their Career; and others are ready to Succeed them, and as it were, to come each to their turn to serve the quarter which is dessign'd for them.

Finally, do's not the Liberality of our Curioso towards his Friends (for he loves to Im∣part what he has) deserve some privilegde to raise the Merit of his Closet above others, out of which we only bring bare Ideas, and were far from receiving any Liberaliteis, on the contrary the Curioso makes profession of being close Fisted; he never makes a show of his Treasure unless it be against his Will; there constantly appears a great deal of disgust in him, which sometimes proceeds from the fear of being Robb'd, but more commonly out of fear of not being thought as Rich, as he pretends to be.

Let us now Proceed to Establish the principal Conditions of a good Store-House; In my Opinion the First consists in its being inpenetrable to Frosts; great Cold as we have already often declar'd being a mortal Enemy to Fruits, those that are once Frozen, are ne∣ver after good for any thing.

It follows from thence, for the Second Condition, that this Store-House must he expos'd to the South or East, or at least to the West; the Northern Exposition would be very perni∣nicious to it.

It also follows for the Third Condition, that the Wall of the said Store-House must be at least Twenty Four Inches thick, or else the Frost could not be kept out.

It likewise follows for the Fourth Condition, that the Windows besides the Common Quarrels, should have good double Paper Saches, Very close, and very well stopt, together with a Double Door, insomuch that the Cold Air from abroad, may not be able to enter in, for it would certainly destroy the Temperate Air which has been preserv'd of Old in the Inside, it is impossible to be too exact in this care, since the least or any, might occasion a great deal of disorder in one Frosty Night; I do not in the least approve the making of Fire in the Store-House, for the same reason, I have sufficiently Establish'd in the Treatise of Orange-Trees.

Notwithstanding all these Conditions, which perhaps have not been exactly Observ'd the thing being pritty difficult, it is absolutely necessary to have some small Vessel full of Water in the Store-House, to be certain, It is a faithful Incorruptible Centry, which is to give us notice of all that may Prejudice us; when that Water does not Freeze there is nothing to be done; but when it Freezes in the least, a remedy must Immeadiately be ap∣ply'd: The Colds of the Month of December 1670, 1675, 1676, 1678, that of January, and February, 1679. and especially that of December 1683, and of January 1684, which lasted a whole Month, without discontinuation the last time, must needs serve for a great Instruction in this Matter; it required a great deal of Care, and forecast, not to be caught by it. A good Weather-Glass plac'd on the out-side at the Northern-Exposure is of great use; we have reason to Judge the Peril great, when this Weather-Glass continues for two Nights together to be, at the fifth and sixth Degrees, and even the seventh and eighth; the first Night may have done no harm, the second is much to be fear'd, and therefore it is very necessary the very next Day after such a Night to use good Quilts, or good Blankets, or else a great deal of dry Moss to secure our Fruits from Frost; nay more, having a good Cellar, it will be very proper to remove our Fruits into it, and leave them there until the great Cold be pass'd, and in all these Cases care must be taken to replace all those Fruits as they were before in the Store-House; as soon as the Weather grows better, and to remove such as are Ripe, and such as are tainted, Rotenness is one of the worst accidents to be fear'd, while Fruits are not in a Condition to be Visited often one after ano∣ther.

After having made Provision against Cold, we must Study to preserve our Fruits from ill Taste; the Neighbourhood of Hay, Straw, Dung, Cheese, a great deal of Foul Linnen, especially such as has been imploy'd in the Kitchen, &c. are all very dangerous, and must not in the least be suffer'd near our Store-House or Conservatory; a certain Musty Taste, together with the smell of many Fruits laid up together is likewise very disagreeable, and therefore the Store-House must not only have good Overtures, and a high Ceiling, the just measure of which, is to be from Ten to Twelve Foot high, but the Windows must often be kept open, that is, as often as there is no fear of great Cold either in the Night, or in the Day, fresh Air from without, when it is Temperate, is Incomparable to purify, and reestablish, that which has been long inclos'd.

For the Sixth Condition, I think I may say, that neither a Cellar nor a Garret are sit to make this Conservatory, the Cellar by reason of a mustiness, and moist heat that are insepa∣rable from it, which inclines the Fruit to Rottenness; the Garret because of the Cold, which easily Penetrates the Roof; and therefore a ground Room is the best for our Use, or at least a first Story, accompany'd with other Lodging-Rooms Inhabited over and under it, as well as on the sides.

I add to this Sixth Condition, that the Store-House must be often visited by him that has it in Charge, which is neglected when he is not at Hand, that is, conveniently plac'd, by reason of the trouble of going too much up, or down.

The seventh Condition requires, many shelves fram'd together in order to Lodge the Fruits separately the one from the other, the finest on the best side, and Baking-Pears on the worst; Apples must lye by themselves. The reasonable distance of these Shelves is to be about Nine or Ten Inches; and I would have them about Seventeen or Eighteen Inches broad, that they may hold the more, and please the sight the better.

For the Eighth Condition, I would have those shelves a little sloaping outwardly, that is, about an Inch in the Breadth, with an Edge about Two Fingers high, to hinder the Fruit from Falling: The Fruits are not so much in sight when the Shelves are level, as when they are as I desire them, and thus when any of them are Rotten it is not so easily perceived, and that Rottenness Communicates it self to those that are about it, unless remedy'd at first.

The fear of that Rottenness requires for a Ninth Condition, that every Shelf should be visited at least every other day, without fail, to remove what ever may be tainted.

And for the Tenth Condition, it requires that the Shelves should be cover'd with some∣thing, for Instance dry Moss, or about an Inch thick of fine Sand, in order to keep every Fruit steady, after its being plac'd upon its Basis, as it should be, and to keep it asunder, for the Fruits must no wise be allow'd to touch each other: It is much pleasanter to see them all in a row upon their Basis, that is, upon the Eye which is opposite to the Stalk, than to see them Lye pell mell any how.

I require for the Last Condition, that Care be taken to Sweep our Conservatory, or Store-House often, to suffer no Cobwebs in it, and to keep Traps for Rats and Mice, and moreover it will not be amiss to allow it some secret Entrance for Cats, other∣wise the Fruit will be in danger of being gnaw'd by those Curs'd little Domestick Animals.

The Conservatory, which is particularly design'd for Winter-Fruits, is likewise very useful for those of Autumn, either Pears or Grapes, and for Summer Fruits, either Peaches, Pavies, Plums, &c. These being in my opinion, as I have already said, much better a day after their being gather'd, than the very day; they acquire a certain coolness in the Store-House, which is a great Improvement which they can never have, while they are upon the Tree.

Now whereas generally speaking, the Fruits that are most Considerable, are only brought into the Store-House, after their having acquir'd one of the two Maturities, which is proper for them, viz. for the Summer Fruits an approaching Maturity, which Expediates them in few days, and for Autumn, and Winter-Fruits, a distant Maturity, which makes them keep long, some less, some more; and besides, whereas it is the approach∣ing Maturity, which is of most Consequence, as well for those good Fruits, which would perish miserably, unless taken in the nick, as for the Master whose pains, cares, and hopes would be lost, unless he were capable, as the saying is, to nick the Critical Minute; it follows from thence, that it is necessary to make an end of giving, in this place, the In∣fallible marks by which this Maturity is to be known: I have already explain'd those: marks for most Fruits which do not exceed September and October, viz. for the remainder of Summer Pears, the remainder of Plums, the best latter Peaches and Pavies, &c. There now remains to speak of October Pears, and others, which keep from All-Saints, till Easter, and longer.

The Vertelongue or Long-Green, Butter-Pears, Vine-Pears, Messire-John, Green-Sugar-Pears, &c. after these, the Petit-oins, Lansaes, Marchionesses, Burgamots, Amadottes, and even the Besideri, and Thick-Stalks, &c. are the first, that are to pass during the Month of November; the Thumb (as we have observ'd already, for the Butter-Pears, Long-Greens, Green-Sugar-Peart, and others, which have began to ripen in October) daly turns what∣ever ripens out of the Store-House, viz. Petit-oins, Marchionesses, Russettines, Lansaes &c. by reason that these are still tender Pears; a Whitish Colour which forms it self in the Rind of the Messire-John, a Yellow cast in the Amadottes, Thick-Stalks, Besideri, &c. and a moisture upon the Rind of the Burgamots, together with a little Yellowness which discovers it self upon them, all those are certain signs which inform us without the help of the Thumb, of what we have a mind to know of those lost kinds of Fruits, 'tis but exa∣mining of them Constantly, or at least every other day, and that Rule of review for the Maturity is to be continu'd the following Months for all other Fruits, that re∣main, in order not to lose the least sign which discovers their approaching Maturity; moreover this review is necessary, to remove such as begin to Rot.

The Louise-bonne, Winter-Thornes, Ambrets, Leschaseries, St. Germains, Vergoules, even the Dry-Martins, Spanish Bon-Chretiens, with the Apples of all kinds, of Capendu, either Grey, or Red, or White, the Apples of Fenouillet, Autumn Calvils, some Apis, and some Reynettes, &c. all these Fruits begin to ripen at the beginning of December, and a little Yellowness, together with some Wrinkles discovers it self upon the Six first, by which

we may judge, in case that they do not resist the Thumb, that they are fit to Eat, but until then, we must not venture to meddle with them; in cutting of them, the Knife would soon discover their want of Ripeness; those kind of Pears are very Subject to soften, and thereby are certainly apt to deceive those who do not strictly Examine them every day.

As to the Dry-Martins, and Spanish Bon-Chretiens, it is with them in the Month of December, just as what I am going to say in January for the Portail-Pears, as soon as ever there appears the least Spot of Rotteness upon any of them, you may boldly attack them all, their time is come, and they are soon threaten'd with Rottenness; but yet with this advantage, that they remain a pretty while in the State of perfect Ma∣turity.

The Capendu, Fenouillet, and Reinettes, declare their Maturity as soon as they become extreamly wrinkled, the Apis declare theirs when their Green Colour turns to Yellow.

The Calvils seem to become lighter, and their kernel loossens, and rattles in shaking, when they ripen, they remain good a long while, as well as the Reinettes, which are be∣come Yellow, without wrinkling, and, those are admirable qualifications in those kind of Fruits.

People must not grow weary of often feeling the tender melting Pears of that Season, the lazy and negligent thereby fall into great Inconveniences.

Such Fruits as have resisted the Thumb in the Month of December, will final∣ly yield to it in their turns in the Months of January and February, but when the Winter-Thorns, are not able to change their Colour a little in these Months, they become Mealy and Insipid, and in a Word, perish without attaining a perfect Maturity, which is a cruel loss to the Curious, since it is really one of our best Pears.

I have made very considerable Observations in relation to it, and of some others, in the Treatise of the Choice and Proportion, &c.

The Louise-bonnes, and the Long-Greens, of September and October, seldom grow Yel∣low, but they wrinkle, and become soft, mellow, and agreeable to feel.

Many Ambrets soften, before they grow Yellow, particularly such as grow North-ward, or upon Dwarf-standards, and especially upon Trees Graffed upon free Stocks, that are too full, therefore these, as well as all other Pears which grow upon Northern Espaliers, require Sugar above all others, to correct their Taste, which is not so good as it should be, tho they are so very full of Water.

The large Winter-Musky, and the Portail-Pears have some Friends, neither of them Value the skill of the Thumb, but the Yellowness of the first, and a few wrinkles, or some Rotteness in the second, to Invite their Votaries do make use of their merit, what ever it be.

One of the chief things I mind in ordering my Fruits in the Store-House or Con∣servatory, is not only to place every kind upon different Shelves, or when I do put several upon one, they are distinguish'd by divisions of Edges, but I likewise make the same distinction among Fruits of the same kind; first I place those that are fallen before their time (for I do not fling them away) by themselves, out of sight, they seldom look well, by reason of their growing very much wrinkled, indeed some more, and others less, and that according to their dropping, sooner, or later; but yet they ripen at last, tho pretty long after the others of their kind; and I cannot forbear doing of them the Justice to say, that they are pretty often incomparably good under a wither'd, ugly, wrinkled Rind, especially when their fall does not exceed a Month before the time of the common gathering.

Secondly, Pears growing upon Dwarf-Standards are apart, as well as those of good Espaliers or Wall-Trees.

I follow the same Method for the Fruits of High-Standards, and the same for the Fruits of Northern Espaliers, by reason that regularly the Fruits of good Espaliers ripen first; those of Vigorous Dwarfs follow them in this order, those of Dwarfs Graffed upon Quince-Stocks preceed those that are Graffed upon Free-Stocks, and those of Infirm Trees preceed both the one and the other.

In ••ine, the Fruits of High-Standards succeed, and often mix with these, and are the best of all, which Maxim is Universally true, Excepting only Plums, and Figs, as I have said elswhere; the Fruits of the Northern Exposure, ripen last of all.

Winter Bon Chretiens, with their Brittle Pulp, and the Colmars with their tender Pulp, let all other Mellow Pears pass before them, and in the mean time the others begin to

turn yellow, and in turning yellow, to Ripen, and to wrinkle a little towards the Stalk: When Bon-Chretien is perfectly ripe, the Pulp is almost melting, and when it is not, it remains very stony; some of them will keep till March, and April; the Bugy's, St. Lezins, and Martin-Sires joyn with those, to close up the Theatre of the Maturity of Pears; the Bugys in March and April are very delicious, with their tender watery Pulp, tho' a little Sowrish: The St. Lezins with their firm Pulp, accompany'd with a little Perfume, also make some Figure, but it is very difficult to preserve them 'till then, the least touch of Cold blackens them intirely, and renders them hideous to sight, as well as disagreeable to the Palate.

As for the Baking-Pears, they are good at all times, for the end they are design'd for, particularly when they begin to grow yellow; with this Proviso, that all such as are tainted with Rottenness, must be laid aside, lest they should infect those that are sound; and thus the Franc-Reals, Little Certeau, the Carmelites, or Mazuer, and especially the Double-Blossoms, which must be consider'd as the best of those that are only fit to bake, are almost ready at all times to perform their part: The Pears of Book and Love, the Angobers, Catillac, Fontarabie, &c. may chance to acquire some goodness, being season'd with Sugar, and the heat of the Fire, but they still retain a touch of Tartness, which can never agree with nice Pallats.

Autumn Calvils, and Reinets, are admirable for Preserving, the Capendus and Fenou∣illets are not so good, by reason of their sweetness, but the first have a kind of briskness, which gives them an incomparable rast.

CHAP. X.

Of the Diseases of Fruit-Trees.

IT is apparent, that by a Law Universally Establish'd, all Living Animated Beings are subject to some Accidents, which hinder them from enjoying a perpetual, and al∣ways equally Vigorous health; this is the reason that it is not only among Men, and other Animals, we find different Distempers: Vegetables, and more particularly Fruit-Trees, are likewise subject to certain Infirmities that destroy them, which we may very well term Distempers; yellow Leaves out of Season, new Shoots growing black, and dying on their Extremities in the Months of August, and September, Fruits remaining small, or dropping of themselves, &c. are, as the Physicians term it, so many speaking Symptoms, informing us of the indisposition of the Foot. Among those Infirmities, there are some that may be Cur'd with the assistance of some Remedies, and others which hitherto appear Incurable; since whatever can be done to them, has still prov'd Ineffectual, perhaps time may produce some Skilful Person, whose Knowledge and Experience may give us some light, in a Case which exposes us to scorn, or at least to pity. In the mean time, since it is but too true that our Trees are liable to different Distempers, Gard∣ners would certainly be blame-worthy, if they did not make it their Study to find out effectual Remedies for some, and to satisfie themselves as to the others; and if knowing those Remedies, they were not careful to apply them upon occasion: For it were vain for them to breed Trees in their Gardens, to be liable to see them perish in their prime, for want of knowing how to Cure them, and restore them to their pristine Vigour.

In Order not to omit any thing relating to those Accidents which our Trees are liable to, without including such as proceed from too long wounds, of great Heat, of great Cold, of Storms, of Whirlwinds, Hails, &c.

I think my self oblig'd to say, in the first place, that there are Distempers common to all Trees in general; Secondly, that there are some that are peculiar to every particular kind: The common Distempers consist either in a defect of Vigour, which makes the Trees appear in a languishing Condition, or else in a storm of large white Worms, which are sometimes form'd in the Earth, and there gnaw the Roots, or the Bark of the Neighbouring Stem; those mischievous little Insects which we call Tons, by degrees cause so great a disorder, that the Tree which is attack'd by them, and had always appear'd Vigorous before, all on a suddain dies without any Remedy.

The Peculiar Distempers are, for Example, in Pear-Treees against a Wall, when their Leaves are attack'd with what we call Tigers: Cankers, and Scabs in other Pear-Trees, Viz. Robins, small Muscadins, &c. Gum on Stone-Fruit-Trees, especially Peach-Trees, which commonly destroys that part on which it fixes, either Branch, or Stem; and when, unfortunately it attacks the part where the Tree is graffed, which is often hid under ground, it insensibly spreads round about that Graff, without any bodies observing of it, for the Tree still continues in a good Condition, while there remains any passage for the Sap; but, finally, this Gum hindering this Sap from rising to the upper parts of the Tree, makes that Tree die suddenly, as if it had been suffocated by a kind of Apoplectick Fit.

Moreover, some Peach-Trees are also attack'd with Aemets, and a small kind of green Fleas, which sometimes fasten on the young Shoots, and hinder them from thri∣ving; sometimes on the new Leaves, and cause them first to shrink, next to dry, and fall: We have likewise North-East Winds which blast, in some Springs wither, and as it were burn all the new Shoots; insomuch, that the Trees on which this unlucky In∣fluence lights, appears dead, while others about them are green, full of fine Leaves, and continue to produce fine Shoots: Besides this, are not the most Vigorous Trees subject to have the end of their new Shoots intirely cut off by a little black round Insect, call'd Bud-Cutter.

Fig-Trees dread the great Colds of the Winter, which are capable of Freezing their whole head, unless they be extreamly well Cover'd, but it is not sufficient to have se∣cur'd them against Frost.

They are likewise subject in that Winter Season, to have the lower part of their Stems gnaw'd by Rats, and * 1.14 Mulots which makes them pine, and die.

Those very Animals, together with * 1.15 Laires, Ear-wigs, and Snails, likewise spoil the very Fruit on the Trees when they approach to maturity, especially Peaches, and Plums; have not Goosberry-shrubs their peculiar Enemies also, which are a kind of small green Caterpillars, which form themselves towards the Months of May, and June, on the back part of their Leaves, and eat them to that degree, that those little Shrubs remain altoge∣ther bare; and their Fruit no longer having any thing to cover and defend them from the great heats of the Sun, is destroy'd, without being able to Ripen.

I might run over all the Accidents which all the rest of Gard'ning is liable to, and cause abundance of Disorders in it: For Example, Strawberry-Plants in the prime of their Youth and Vigour, are as it were treacherously attack'd in their very Roots by those wicked * 1.16 Tons which destroy them.

Kitchen-Plants, especially Lettuce, and Succory, &c. constantly have some of those * 1.17 Tons, or other little reddish Worms which gnaw them about the neck, and kill them just as they come to perfection.

How much do Artichokes suffer by little black Flies which infest them towards the end of Summer, and Mulots, or Garden-Mice, which gnaw their Roots in the Winter.

Lettuce, and Succory are absolutely devour'd by Snails, some of which are long, and yellow, some blackish, and gray, and others little and white, especially in Rainy Weather.

Sorell is tormented in very hot weather with little Black Fleas, which gnaw all the Leaves, insomuch that it becomes of no use.

Even Cabbages are spoil'd by green Snails, which gnaw and spoil all their Leaves; but I am only to speak in this place, of those Distempers that may be Cur'd in Fruit-Trees, and not of such as are Incurable, nor of those that are incident to Kitchen-Plants; those commonly proceed, either from the defect of the Ground, which does not furnish nourishment enough, or from an ill Culture, or a defect in Pruning, or finally, from a defect in the Tree, which was not well-condition'd, either before it was Planted, or in Planting of it.

It therefore follows, in the first place, that the Soil may contribute to Distemper our Trees, which commonly happens when the Earth is not Fruitful in it self, or is perhaps become so by being exhausted, or when it is too dry, or too moist; or else when, tho' never so good, there is not a sufficient quantity of it.

In order to remedy all those kind of Inconvenients, I say, that when the Soil is in∣fertile, as it happens in many places, where there is nothing but clear Sand, the Master is to blame to have Planted any thing in it, the defect of it can never be Corrected, whatever quantity of Dung he puts into it; the only Expedient is to remove that Earth, and put better Mould in the room of it: Happy are those who can meet with it in their Neighbourhood, and thereby avoid the Trouble and Charge of fetching it at a distance. As to that which is worn out, it is likely that there may be some better a∣bout

it which may be us'd, unless People would allow it two or three years time to lie Fallow, in order to amend it by rest, but there is no pleasure in losing so much time: When we resolve to make this Exchange of Mould, and yet are unwilling to remove the Tree which is not Old, one half of the Roots must be Prun'd short again, which will suffice for the first Year, doing the same again at the end of two years, to the other half of the Tree: Nothing Exhausts the Ground more than the Roots of Trees lying long in the same place, especially the Roots of Neighbouring Trees, particularly Palli∣sado's of Elms; Fruit-Trees must of necessity Pine, or Perish, if that Neighbourhood subsists.

When the Ground is too dry, and light, the best Remedy is to soak it often with frequent Waterings, or by Artificial falls of Water, or else by ordering Spouts, or, Dreins in such a manner, that they may Conduct the Water of Rains into the Squares and Bordures, as I have explain'd it in the Treatise about Soils.

When the Ground is too moist, that part must be rais'd where the Trees stand, making lower Ridges to receive the Waters, and Conduct them out of the Gardens by Gutters, or Aqueducts, as I have done in the Kitchen-Garden of Versailles.

When there is not Mold enough, it must be augmented, either about the Roots, re∣moving all the ill Mould, to put better in the room of it; or else laying new Mould over the Surface of it; the Mould being thus amended, without doubt the Trees will thrive better in it, and grow more Vigorous.

When the distemper is only visible by a certain yellowness, as for Example; Pear-Trees Graffed upon Quince-Stocks, in certain Grounds, always grow yellow, tho' the Ground seems to be pretty good; it is a good and certain Advertisement to remove them, and to place others in their room upon Free-Stocks, which are much more Vigorous, and agree better in an indifferent Soil, than others.

When Peaches Graffed upon Almond-Stocks, cast too much Gum in moist Grounds, others must be Planted upon Plum-Stocks, and when they do not thrive upon Plum-Stocks in Sandy Grounds, only such must be Planted there, as are Graffed upon Al∣monds.

If, on the other hand, the Tree appears over-burthen'd with Branches, so as only to shoot very small ones, it must be eas'd, until it begins again to produce fine Shoots, always performing that Pruning, by lowering the uppermost Branches, or by removing part of those that cause a Confusion in the middle, observing the Maxims I have establish'd for good Pruning.

When the Distemper proceeds from the Trees being ill-Condition'd before its being Planted; as for instance, from its having a Scabby poor Foot, half dead for want, or from its being too weak, the best way is to pull it out, and place a better in the room of it.

If the Tree, being good in it self, has been Planted too deep, or too shallow, or with too many Roots, the best expedient is to take it up again, Prune the Roots a-new, and Re-plant it according to the Rules of Art.

And to all these Ends, it is very necessary to keep always some Dozens of good Trees in Baskets, to place new ones ready grown in the room of such as must be remov'd.

When the Trees are attack'd with some Cankers, you must with the point of a Knife remove the part so tainted to the quick, and then apply a little Cow-Dung to it, covering it with a piece of Linen, a kind of Rind will grow over it, which will cover the Wound, and so that Accident will be Cur'd.

When Catterpillars annoy a Tree, Care must be taken to remove them.

When Rats gnaw the Barks, Snares and Traps must be laid for them.

When the Distemper is suppos'd to proceed from Tons, the Foot of the Tree must be un∣cover'd to Extirpate them absolutely, putting new Mould in the room of the old, after ha∣ving shortned the Roots that are gnaw'd.

Among the Incurable Distempers of our Trees, I reckon first Old Age; when for In∣stance, a Pear-Tree, or Plum-Tree has serv'd for Thirty, Forty, or Fifty years, we may conclude that it has attain'd a decrepit Age, and consequently, that it has perform'd its part, and is out of date, there is no hopes of a return, it must be taken out, not leaving any of its Roots into the Ground, putting new Mould into the room of it, in order to Plant new Trees there, when People are desirous of seeing Trees in the same Place.

In the second place, I reckon the Tigers which stick to the back of the Leaves of Wall-Pear-Trees, and dry them up by sucking all the green Matter that was in them, among the Incurable Distempers; I have imploy'd all manner of strong, sower, corrosive, stink∣ing Lees, Viz. of Rue, Tabacco, Salt, Vinegar, &c. to wash the Leaves, and Branches: I have, by the Advice of some of the Curious, imploy'd Oyl; I have smoak'd them with

Brimstone by the Advice of others; I have burnt the Old Leaves, I have scrap'd the back of the Branches, and Stem, to which the Seed sticks: I daily endeavour to find out some new Expedient; and after all, I confess freely, and to my shame, that I have never suc∣ceeded in any of them; there still remains some of the Seed of that Cursed Insect, in some part or other: And in the Months of May, and June, this Seed is hatch'd by the heat of the Sun, and then multiplies ad Infinitum, and therefore one of these two things must be done; either no Pear-Trees must be suffer'd against a Wall, or in Espalier, which is a violent Remedy, especially for small Muscat-Pears, Burgamots, and Winter Bon-Chretiens, which seldom thrive from a Wall; or else we must resolve to see those Tigers upon them, contenting our selves with burning all the Leaves yearly, and with cleansing the Trees as much as is possible.

Thirdly, I reckon among the Incurable Distempers the Gum, which fastens to Peach-Trees, and other Stone-Fruits; when it only appears on one Branch, it is no great matter, 'tis but cutting the said Branch two or three inches below the part so Distemper'd; whereby this kind of Gangreen is hinder'd from extending farther, as it would Infallibly do, if it stuck about the Graff, or all over the Stem, or on most of the Roots, and then the sole Expedient is to lose no more time about it, and consequently to remove such a Tree out of the Ground, in the manner aforesaid:

The Gum sometimes proceeds from an external Accident, for instance, from a Wound which has been made by way of Incision, by a Scratch, and sometimes from an Evil inward disposition: In the first Case, that Gum is nothing but a spurted Sap, which is subject to Corruption, and Rottenness, from the time it ceases to be inclos'd in its Or∣dinary Channels, which lye between the Wood, and the Bark; in that Case the Remedy is easie, especially when it happens only on a Branch, as I have declar'd in the pre∣ceeding Article, when the Distemper affects the Stem, it often Cures it self by a knob, or a Continuation of new Bark, which extends over the part so Wounded; sometimes it is necessary to apply a Plaister of Cow-dung over it, cover'd with a piece of Linen, until the Wound be clos'd: When the Gum proceeds from the inside, I judge it Incurable on the Stem, or Roots.

A TREATISE OF THE Graffs of Trees, AND OF NURSERIES.

CHAP. XI.

Of Graffs.

I Never Reflect on what we call Graffing of Trees, and the Advantage which accrues from thence, for the Imbellishment of our Gardens; but at the same time, in my * 1.18 mind, I compare all young Persons before their being Educated, to so many Wild∣lings, to be Graffed. It really seems to me, that as most Trees before their being Graffed, naturally produce none but ill Fruits, so most young People before their being Instructed, naturally incline to Evil; but Education intervening like, a kind of good Graff, to inspire them with Sentiments conformable to Reason, disposes and inclines them insen∣sibly to Vertue, purging and divesting them at the same time of their Evil Inclinations; insomuch, that being afterwards Influenc'd by good Maxims, they no longer swerve from what is just and reasonable, and ever receive the approbation of the Wise: And as Edu∣cation is the Master-piece of Morality, so likewise it cannot be deny'd, but the Art of Graffing is what is most considerable in Gard'ning.

The Roman Oratour, conformably to many others among the Learned, who had explain'd themselves upon that subject before him, has taken delight inspeaking of that Invention, in terms so Noble, and so Elegant, that Posterity has been Charm'd with it: In effect, he expres∣ses the singular esteem he had for it, very agreeably, and yet without seeming to insist upon the praise of its Ancientness, being willing as it were by his silence to incline us to believe that the Original of it is hardly known, and that without doubt we are only in∣debted to Chance for it; and indeed our Books of Husbandry, hardly mention any thing capable of giving us any agreeable useful insight into it; for, as for instance, what signi∣fies it to believe, with Theophrastus, that we have receiv'd the first Idea of Graffing from the inside of the Trunk of a Tree's having produc'd another Tree of a different kind? That Author, who, to maintain his Opinion, lays a great stress upon that Adventure, delights in reciting the whole Story at length; for which Reason, he adds, that a Bird having swal∣low'd a whole Fruit, had afterwards voided it again accidentally in the hollow of that Old Tree, and that the Rains mixing with some rotten part of that hollow had made it sprout and grow, insomuch that it was become a new Tree of the same kind of that whence this Fruits was Originally grown, which consequently was absolutely different from that hol∣low

Tree which had given Birth and Nourishment to that new Tree, as if it had sprouted in the open Ground.

What signifies it likewise for me to believe, with Pliny, that this Invention of Graffing proceeds rather from that a Plough-Man, who was a good Husband, being desirous to se∣cure a piece of Land against the Spoils, he dreaded from without, unless his Field was well inclos'd, had fenc'd it round about with a Pallisade of green Poles, and that in order to secure those Poles from rottenness, thereby to make them last the longer, he had be∣thought himself of laying into the ground round about that Field Trunks of Ivy, with a design to intermix, as he did, the inferiour Extremity of those Poles into the Body of those Trunks, from whence it happen'd, contrary to his expectation, that the Sap which was in the internal parts of those Trunks, serv'd for a nourishment to those Poles, just as if it had been a piece of good Earth, insomuch that in process of time, they grew to be large Trees.

Now Pliny upon this Example, and Theophrastus upon the other, lay the Foundation of the Reflections, which, as they say, have given birth to the Art of Graffing; for my part, far from opposing their Arguments, I willingly submit to them, and am very ready to believe that those two Observations may have given some insight for Graffing, to which I add at the same time, that cleft Graffs have undoubtedly been practis'd first, in imitation * 1.19 of the Peasants green Poles above mention'd: The success of those has since put our Gard∣ners upon trying new Experiments for Graffing, which we find very useful; therefore I own that we can never praise the first Authors of the use of Graffing too much, nor suffi∣ciently publish our Obligation to them for the main part of the innocent pleasures Fruit-Gardens afford us; for it is most certain, that without this admirable Expedient, we should to this hour, be all poor in respect to the different kinds of Fruits, since every body should have been reduc'd to the necessity of being satisfy'd with such as his Climate, or Chance had afforded him, whether good, or bad: It is the Skill of Graffing alone which has made the first Curioso's; the facility of Commerce has since increas'd the number ad Infinitum, by reason that People freely and generously communitate their choicest Production to one * 1.20 another, and that particularly, because such Liberalities do not in the least impair or di∣minish the stock or abundance of the Curious: And in truth, can any thing be so De∣lightful, and so Convenient, as to be able in the first place, by an easie Multiplication, which is at our Command, to inrich our selves with good Fruits; and secondly, to be also able to get from, and send to distant Countries Reciprocally, and at a very easie Rate, wherewith to Entertain the Persons of the greatest Quality, as well as the most solitary Desarts, as also to add to the good Cheer of Banquets, and relish the delicacy of the Pallate, as well as to Charm the Curiosity of the Eyes, and the greediness of the Nostrils? But a∣bove all, who can express the great satisfaction Gentlemen receive, who have made it their business to Graff in their Gardens? For Instance, one that shall have Graffed, in or∣der * 1.21 to make some Wildling change its Nature, another to multiply some good Fruits, and in both Cases, nothing can equal the Transports of our Gentleman Gard'ner, when coming to injoy the Fruit of his Industry, he shows his handy work, and imparts the Fruits it has produc'd. * 1.22

The History of Great Men, who have delighted in this Art, has sufficiently mention'd it, without my inserting any Particulars about it; therefore I shall only say, that as the great delight of the Famous Gard'ner of the Georgicks (which the Poet makes no scruple of Comparing to the Pleasure of Kings) consisted in finding at his coming home at night, wherewith to maintain, and treat his Family, without buying any thing, (no body can question but it was with the Fruit and Legumes of his Garden, seconded by some Profits of his Poultry, Dairy, &c.) so the Pleasure of our Curioso's consists in filling their Gardens with all manner of good Trees, which cost them nothing, that is, out of their Nurseries, without reckoning the satisfaction of being able to present them to those Friends they respect and value.

It were perhaps to be wish'd, in the Case of Graffs, that People had been satisfy'd with the bare improvement of that fine Invention, without pushing it to excess, and tormenting themselves to produce monstrous Fruits by a world of Projects, as ridiculous, as useless; our Books have endeavour'd to perswade us about the success thereof, but Ingenious Men give but little Credit to them: I believe there are but few, who upon the Report of some of the Ancients, have made it their business to Graff Vine upon Wallnut, or Olive-Trees, in hopes to get Bunches of Oyl, or to Graff good Fruits upon Plain-Trees, or Ash, and Cherries upon Lawrel, Chesnuts upon Beach Trees, Oaks, upon Elms, Wallnuts upon a Shrub, and all in hopes of raising new kinds of Fruits; and therefore, tho' with submission, and respect to the memory of Great Men, I must needs say, that all their Attempts have for the most part been faulty; it is sufficient that all good kinds of Fruits may be Graffed with success,

upon Wildings, or other Stocks of a Nature approaching to theirs, and the only use * 1.23 we ought to make of the Visions of the Curiosos which have preceeded us, is to avoid falling in the same Inconvenience with them, in losing so much time and Pains, as they have done in making a thousand such Extraordinary Essays.

Now in order to enter upon the Matter, you must know, that, as I have already said else where, Graffing and Enter, or Ingrassing, are Sinonimous Terms, only us'd in Gard'ning, which without doubt are meerly of the Institution of our own Tongue, and my reason for it is, that they have no relation to the Latin Term Inserere, which appa∣rently has preceeded them, and signifies the same thing, with this difference, that it is much more significant; But however, to give as perfect a Notion of it as we can, we are oblig'd to say, that those two Terms have the same signification as the Latin Term, to Plant part of some Tree, which we valued, upon some part of another Tree, of which we do not like the kind; this manner of Planting is very singular, and causes, as the Prince of Poets tells us, the head of that last Tree to change its kind in the whole, or in part, according to the Intention of the Gard'ner; thus an Almond Tree, becomes a Peach Tree, a Quince Tree, a Pear-Tree, &c. Another Illustrious Poet of the same Age, casually speaking about that manner of Graffing, says very Ingeniously, that it is a kind of Adoption Introduc'd among Trees, by means of which good Trees are Multiply'd with ease, in making use of those Stocks which produc'd none that were good.

This alteration of Kind, or this Adoption cannot be perform'd, without some operati∣ons, * 1.24 of which the very names are Capable to strike People with Horror, Heads to be Saw'd, Arms to be Cut, Bodies to be split, Ligatures, Plaisters, Incisions, &c. The expli∣cation of what relates to this matter of Graffs, will unriddle this Mystery clearly.

In the first Place it is to be noted, that Graffing is not perform'd all the Year round, but only in certain Months; Secondly, that in relation to the Trees you Graff upon, you must of necessity Cut and retrench a great deal of them, sometimes immediately, and at other times, only five or six Months after, that is, a considerable part, either of the Stem or Branches; and that without meddling in the least with what we call the Foot of the Tree: This Tree being, as it were, Ignorant of what has been done to its Superiour Part, and Subsisting still, that is, continuing to Act in the Ground as it us'd to do, and tho it no longer has occasion to Nourish either the Stem or Branches, which it had Originally produc'd, and were its real Offspring; this Foot, I say, in obedience to the Gard'ners In∣dustry, labours to stretch out, thicken, multiply, and cause to Fructify, either the bare Eyes or Buds, or the foreign Branches that are Substituted, while small, upon its Stem or Branches, and those new Branches, in the sequel, taking the room of those that have been retrench'd, become the Adopted Children of that Foot, and Joyn so perfectly and so closely to it, that they appear to be absolutely its Legitimate Offspring; whence it follows, that its Functi∣on for the Future, is no other than to serve, as it were, for a Nurse to these new In∣fants:

In order to understand this Description of Graffs perfectly, which hitherto appears ob∣scure and enigmatick, it is necessary in the first Place to declare the different kinds of Graffs that are in use: Secondly, the proper time to make them; and finally the manner of making them well; there are great differences among the one and the others. In the next Place we shall add, which are the proper Stocks, that have a Natural Disposition to re∣ceive certain kinds of Fruits, and can agree with no other.

CHAP. XII.

Of the kind of Graffs that are in use.

THE Graffs that are most commonly us'd are Inarching, Budding or Inoculating, the Cleft, the Crown, or Graff's between the Wood and the Bark, and Whip-Graff∣ing.

Inarching is for Chesnuts, Marons, Fig-Trees, &c.

Budding or Inoculateing is for all manner of Fruits, both Kernel and Stone, and some∣times for other Trees that bear no Fruit.

The Cleft is also proper for all manner of good Fruit Trees, and even for other great Trees, provided both the one, and the other have, at least three or four Inches Circumfe∣rence at the place where the Graff is to be so perform'd; Clefts are not generally so proper

for Stone Fruit, especially Peaches, as for Kernel Fruit; the Curiosos of some Provinces in Guyenne affirm the Contrary.

The Crown or Graffs between the Wood and the Bark, as well as Whip-Graffing, are particularly for thick Branches, or for thick shorten'd Stems of Kernel Fruit, and are nought for Stone Fruit, as well as for all Branches and Stems of a moderate Size, which are too weak to press their Graffs sufficiently.

CHAP. XIII.

Of Proper Times to Graff.

THE Proper Times to Graff, are First, the beginning of May, in which the Sap, being risen into the Trees, especially in the Branches of the preceeding years Growth, without the Eyes or Buds having shot yet, the Bark loosens easily, insomuch, that they may be stript with ease, which is necessary for those kind of Graffs in question. This Month of May is only proper for Inarching, which as we have already said, is only fit for Chesnut, Maron, and Fig-Trees, &c.

Secondly, The middle of June is proper for Inoculating, * 1.25 which is only to be us'd for certain Stone Fruits; for Instance, for Cherries, Morellos and Bigarreaux, upon a small bit∣ter Wild-Cherry, and Peaches upon old Almond-Trees, &c.

Thirdly, The Months of July and August, for Budding or Inoculating Trees, which by the small Vigour of their Foot, or else by reason of the excessive Heat and Draughts which happen sometimes at that Time, seem to have a visible, if not total dimunition of Sap; for you must know, that this way of Inoculating, with a close Eye or shut Bud, requires but little Sap, particularly from the Stock, upon which, after having made the necessary Incision, the Scutcheon must be apply'd: Too great an abundance of Sap in the Stock is pernicious to that apply'd Scutcheon, by reason that it is commonly Drown'd there with Gum, whereas it should only stick, without meeting any thing there for the remain∣der of the year capable of making it Shoot; it stands in need but of a very small help to preserve it from Death, in expectation of a kind of vigorous Resurrection, which the Spring Promises, when it recovers out of its Lethargy; as to the Twig from whence the Bud is taken, it can never have too much Sap, provided the Bark be sufficiently well nourish'd to strip with ease from the Wood it covers, and take along with it the Internal Sprout which forms the principal part of that Scutcheon; the Common Stocks which are Budded upon, during those two Months, are Plum-Stocks, for Plums, or Peaches, young Almond-Stocks Planted in an ill Ground for Peaches, Quince-Stocks for Pears, White-Thorns for Apricocks; Paradice-Stocks and Apple-Wildlings, for good Apples, &c.

The Month of September is proper for Inoculating Peach-Trees, upon Vigorous Peach-Stocks, or young Almond-Stocks, of that years Groweth; Planted in good Ground, both the one and the other have the gift of preserving abundance of Sap very safe; and they are only fit to Bud upon, at the Time of the Declining of that Sap.

We might Graff in the Cleft, during the Months of November, December, and January, but one is never the more forward, on the Contrary, it is much to be fear'd that the Graffs would Wither and absolutely Perrish, by reason that dur∣ing these Three Months, they receive no assistance from the Root, which at that time, by reason of the Cold, is, as it were, benum'd of all its Vegetative Functions.

All the Month of February, and a considerable part of March, are admirable for the Cleft, and for Whip-Graffing, but that is to be understood, when by reason of the length of the Colds of the Winter, the Season is not forward, and Consequently the Trees not yet enter'd into Sap, that is before the Bark quits the Wood; for as soon as ever it loosens, such Trees can no longer be Graffed in the Cleft that year. Therefore it is necessary, to provide betimes, particularly against that time, Graffs of Pears, Apples, Plums, &c. especially when they are to come from distant Countries.

The end of March in mild Springs, I mean such, which instead of being accompani'd with Snows, and small Frosts, as it is usual, are Hot and Moist; the first half of April, particularly is very favourable for the Crown; by reason that the Sap must of necessity be sufficiently risen into those shorten'd Trunks, to be able to divide the Bark from the Wood, with small wedges made of Box, or Ebony, in order to faclitate the Lodging of the Graff, that has been prepar'd on purpose for it.

The Month of April is only proper to Graff all manner of Apple-Trees in the Cleft, by reason that those kind of Trees are not so easily mov'd to produce Sap as other Fruit-Trees are, and as I have declar'd already, the only time to Graff in the Cleft is a little be∣fore the Trees begin to Blossom and Shoot; the said Month of April is likewise Conve∣nient to Graff Vines, which can only be Graffed in the Cleft upon Trunks cover'd with Earth.

CHAP. XIV.

Of the manner of Performing all manner of Graffs.

HAving Explain'd the different sort of Graffs that are now in use, and the different * 1.26 Months of the Year, that are proper for each of them, there still remains to explain the proper manner of performing them; and therefore, I shall begin with the Description of the Graffing-Knife.

The Blade of this Graffing-Knife must be about two Inches long, with a small Handle, a full Inch longer than the Blade, or ordinary Knives, the overplus of the Handle must be flatten'd on the Extremity, and made round, about the Edges of that Extremity, in order to serve to loosen the Rind of the Wildlings with ease, upon which the Scutcheon is to be apply'd; the most Convenient Graffing-Knives, are those which close within the Handle, like Pruning-Knives, or like the Common Pocket-Knives that are made to fold.

Now since in the order I have observ'd for Graffs, I have begun with that which is perform'd first in the finest Season of the Year, viz. Inarching, I think it will be proper to begin this Chapter with the manner of doing it as it should be; and therefore, I say, that in order to succeed in it, in the first place the Twig that is designed to Graff with, which you must hold in your hand before you begin, in order to make the necessary Com∣parisons the better, between the Twig and the Branch that it is to be Graffed upon, either with Thred, Rush, Ribbon, &c. by reason that this Twig must be exactly of the same thickness with the Branch you are to Graff upon; for it being thicker or smaller, the Graff will not succeed. Next, you must chuse a fine Place upon the said Twig, having two good Eyes or Buds, looking regularly the one on one side, the other on the other, and with your Graffing-Knife, or other sharp Instrument you must cut the Bark of the Piece you are to take off for the Graff, Circularly to the very Wood, both at the top and bottom; you must take off all the Bark which covers the smallest part of the said Twig, in order to make that Piece come out there, which is to be taken off after having loosen'd it from its Wood, by twisting it gently with the Thumb: But before you take it quite out of its Place, you must shorten the Branch that is to be Graffed upon, four or five Inches, and without wounding the Wood, you must strip it intirely in a very sound, and very smooth place, unto the lower part where the Graff is to come, that it may fit it so exactly, that it may rather be thought it grew there Naturally, than by Art, and imme∣diately, in order not to permit a small Moisture which lyes round about the part so stript, which is the Sap newly risen, to Evaporate, you must make an end of taking the piece that is design'd for the Graff, out of its Place, and Lodge it with all the Diligence, and dexterity imaginable within the Branch so stript, to the place where 'tis to remain, and * 1.27 finally to hinder the moisture of the Air from penetrating into the space between the Wood of the Branch that is Graffed, and the Bark that is newly applied, you must raise small Shavings out of the Wood of the Branch round about the Superiour Extremity of that Graff, without putting them off, and make them hang like a kind of Ruff on the Extremity of that Bark, to cover, and shelter it from the Injuries of the Air.

Inocculating or Budding, A la Pouce, (which I take to be with an open Bud) and with the close Eye, or shut Bud, only differ as to the Time of performing them, as we have alrea∣dy

observ'd; they are both perform'd in the same manner, the first thing to be done in order to it, is, to take from the Tree you design to Graff with, Cyons of that years Growth perfectly at a stand, upon which you find good Eyes or Buds, likewise at a stand, and they are those which have been first form'd since the Spring, those that are form'd last being too tender to Succeed: As soon as those Twigs are cut, you must take off the Leaves close to the Place where they stick to their Stalk, by which means the Eyes or Buds will not Wither so soon; the Cyons may be preserv'd three or four days, provided the Butt end be plac'd in Water, or any thing that is Moist, and the Twig not above half a Foot long; insomuch that one may very well cut a Twig that is two Foot long into several Pieces: With these two Precautions you may very well send those Twigs newly cut from the Tree, thirty or forty Leagues off (Note, that if they be Twigs taken from Peach-Trees, you must seldom take any Scutcheons from them, unless the Eyes be double or treble, that is, unless you find the beginning of a growing Branch accompani'd with Leaves, and two begin∣nings of Fruit Buds to the Right and Left, or other Branches to come) as for other Fruits, Pears, Apples, Plums, &c. a single Eye is as good as a double, or treble one, &c.

When you are ready to Bud, you must Chuse upon the Branch, or Stem you design to Inoculate upon, a fine smooth place, which is generally met with, in the space which divides the inferior Eye from another which is immediately above it, where you must make two Incisions representing a great Roman T, that is the upper Incision Horizontal, and the second beginning near the middle of the first Slit descending downwards, about an Inch or an Inch and a half in length; these two Incisions may be made before you take off the Scutcheon you are to apply, provided the Rind of the Wildling be not separated until the Scutcheon be ready; by reason that it is necessary that the Scutcheon should meet with some Moisture in that part of the Wildling it is to be apply'd to, and that this Moisture should proceed from the Sap, which must Glue it to the said Wildling; otherwise the place being Dry, the Graff would Perish, therefore the safest way is to begin by taking off the Scutcheon before you make your Incision on the Wildling; now in order to take off the Scutcheon, particularly for Peaches, you must make an Incision like to the

[illustration]

Figure A upon the Twig or Shoot, in that part where you observe a good Eye or Bud, which is partly the Figure of the Scutcheon of a Coat of Arms, from whence Gard'ning has borrowed that Term of Scutcheon, after which pressing the Thumb close upon the sides of that Incision towards that part which is near the Eye that is contain'd within the space of the Incision, it is easily loosen'd from the Twig, provided the Sap be plentiful there, otherwise, tho even in the Case of Peach-Trees, the Scutcheon must be raised with a Wedge of Wood, which must be perform'd by Slipping the Graffing-Knife under the Bark from the Head of the Scutcheon to the Point, biting a little into the Wood, especially about the Eye, &c.

As to the Scutcheons of Kernel Fruits, they can hardly be taken off otherwise than with a Piece of Wood: When the Scutcheon is taken off, you must look whether the inward Sprout, which is the Channel through which the Sap is Communicated for the Production of a new Branch, hold to the said Scutcheon, as it must absolutely do, which being so you shall hold this Scutcheon in your Mouth, only between your Lips by the end of the Stalk of the remaining Leaves, by reason that Spittle might prejudice it; in the mean time take care to separate the Rind dexterously, by degrees, with the flaten'd end of your Knife, without leaving any thing along the two long sides of the Incision, being careful that the Incision may be somewhat longer towards the Point than the Scutcheon, then take the Scutcheon out of your Mouth, and presenting the pointed part thereof to the Horizontal Incision, make it slide down all along the Incision; insomuch that it may be Lodg'd there intirely, and especially that it may fill up all that part which is stript at the Head of the Incision, and finally that the sides of the Bark that are loosen'd, may afterwards come to cover all the Scutcheon, excepting the Eye, this being done, you must take course flat Flax, wherewith you must gently, and neatly, tye the Scutcheon, the loosen'd Bark, and the

Branch together, to the end that they may the better joyn together, and there ends the Mystery of Inoculating, or Budding, with this difference only, that when it is perform'd in * 1.28 June, the Branch, or Stem so Budded, must be immediately shorten'd within two or three Inches of the Scutcheon; to the end that the Sap being hinder'd from ascending higher (as it naturally would do) it may be forc'd to enter into that Scutcheon, in order to make it shoot soon after: Meriziers, a small wild bitter Cherry, so Budded, commonly succeed better than any Fruit-Trees, and especially better than Peach-Trees Budded in June, either upon other Peach Trees, or Old Almond Trees; by reason that they are very subject to pe∣rish with Gum, and that by an over-abundance of Sap, which being in the Summer in the Trees that are Inoculated, and not finding a sufficient Issue at the overture of the Eye of that Scutcheon, comes out at the Incision, there Congeals like Blood out of the Veins, and absolutely destroys the said Scutcheon; but when this Inoculation is perform'd with a close Eye, or shut Bud, neither the Branch, or Stem so Graffed, must be immediately shorten'd, you must tarry until the Month of March following, which is the time that the Sap begins to mount up into the Trees again, which is the proper time to shorten them in the same manner we have express'd for the Budding in June, the same reason serving for both, provided always, that before that time, that is, during the Winter, the Flax which did tie the Scutcheon, has been cut neatly, without wounding the Bark that was cover'd by the said Flax; for unless it were cut, all the part so tied, and what is above it, would be apt to perish for want of a sufficient passage for the Sap, which would ascend to the Ex∣tremity of the Branch, and thereby all pains taken about the Inoculation, would prove vain, while the lower part below it, would shoot abundance of Wild Twigs, of no use.

The Description of the Cleft we have in the Georgicks, tho' admirable in it self, might * 1.29 yet be much better, if it were more compleat, more particular, and more instructive; it only tells us, that in order to Perform this Graff, the head of the Trees must be cut off, in that part where the Stem appears most even, and least knotty, that we must cleave the said Stock pretty deep with Wedges, and finally, that we must lodge Cyons of better Fruits into those Clefts, which in time produce fine large Trees.

The Reading of that Description does not appear sufficient to me, to Instruct a new Learner in the Art of Graffing, to perform it as it should be, it is deficient in several Ar∣ticles, First, because it does not inform us that we may not only Graff upon thick short∣en'd Stocks, but also that it may be done upon several Branches of Trees, either Dwarfs, or tall Standards, even upon Stocks of two or three Inches Circumference, provided they be capable of suffering the Cleft, and of closing the Graff sufficiently.

It is defective in the Second place, in not specifying the proper time for those kind of Graffs. We have explain'd it already.

Thirdly, It is defective, in not fixing the length of the Twigs that are employ'd about it: We commonly regulate it to two or three Inches in length, or rather upon the num∣ber of three good Buds at least, which the Graff must have.

Fourthly, it is deficient, in neither teaching us how to Prune the Graffs well, nor how to place them so exactly in the only places that are proper for them, that the Sap of the Foot may enter securely into them: As for the Pruning of those Graffs, in order to per∣form it well, the Butt-end of them must be Cut with a very sharp Pruning-Knife, on both sides in the form of a Wedge, about half a large Inch in length, preserving on the two sides which Edge that Figure of a Wedge, some Bark sticking very close to the Wood; the side which is to be most outward must be somewhat broader, and thicker, than the other which is inward, and precisely on the top of that Bark preserv'd for the outside, you must have a good Eye, or Bud, as high as the edge of the shorten'd Stock, and the upper part of the Cleft; and as to the well-placing of the Graffs, the inside of the Barks, both of the Wildling, and of the Graffs, must be so exactly sitted, that the Sap rising from the Foot, may as easily enter into the space between the Wood, and the Bark of the Graff, as between the Wood and the Bark of the Stock, or Branches Graffed upon.

The Description is likewise deficient, in the Fifth place, in not observing, that in case the Cleft be not made very curiously, as it happens often, you must pare it with your Pru∣ning-Knife, removing whatever might obstruct or hinder the Graff from entring freely, nay more, in case there be cause to judge that the Graff, by being a little too small, in pro∣portion to the Stock, may be a little too much press'd, it is necessary to pare the wood on both sides of the Cleft very neatly, and very smoothly, which is to be done with the point of a very sharp Pruning-Knife, beginning from the lower part upwards, and all this so exactly, and so conformably to the Figure of the Branch that has been cut for the Cleft Graff, that after having lodg'd the Graff, there may appear no vacuity between it, and the sides of the Cleft; and yet, that the Graff may stick so close, that it may not be easie to move it.

Sixthly, The Description is defective, in not mentioning how many Graffs may be ap∣ply'd upon one Stock, and how the upper part of the Stem being Cut must be prepar'd; large Stocks, or Branches that are to be Graff'd in the Cleft, must be very smooth at top, and equal on all sides, insomuch that the head may be Horizontal, to place several Graffs upon it, if there be room, and the Stock requires it; small Stocks, or Branches that cannot receive above one Graff, must only be smooth'd in one part of the Head; and if that part where the Graff is to be apply'd, the remainder must be Cut like the Foot of a Hind.

Finally, the said Description is defective in not informing us how to secure our Graff'd Trees, and hinder them from being prejudic'd by the Injuries of the Air, Rains, Heats, and Droughts, through the overtures of the Cleffs, whereupon it is to be noted, that all Cleft Graffs must be swadled with fine Earth, and Hay newly prepar'd, or else with Gum prepar'd to that end, compos'd either of black fat Pitch, melted in an Iron Pot, or Earth mix'd with a little yellow Wax, the said Gum must be kept hot, and liquid, over a Chaffing-Dish, to be apply'd with a kind of Wooden Trule; but before you apply either the Earth, and Hay, or the Gum, you must cover all the Crannies with some Barks, immediately loosen'd from some Branch of the Tree that is Graffed; they are commonly put crosswise on large Stocks, or Graff'd Branches, in order to cover the Clefts so well, that nothing may get into them; and whereas we generally cover the Earth, and Hay, with a piece of Linnen to keep it fix'd about the Head that is Graff'd, which has some resemblance to a Child's Baby, we often call the Cleft Graff a Baby-Graff: Nota, that when the Stock does not seem to press the Graff sufficiently, it must be bound about with some tender Twigs of an Ozier, in order to secure the Graff.

I conclude what relates to Cleft Graffs, after having declar'd what I can say about Wedges; which is, that before you make use of them to open the Cleft, you must, in case it be a large Stock, begin the Cleft with the edge of a pretty large Knife, apply'd upon the whole breadth of the Trunk, or Branch, striking with a Hammer upon it, in order to make the said edge enter pretty deep into the Wood, and thereby mark the Cleft in question: Stocks of a moderate size are easily enough Cleft with the bare edge of the Knife, without the help of a Hammer.

[illustration]

The Wedges to be Convenient must be made according to the Model of this Figure, one of the Hooks being thicker, longer, and stronger than the other, which is to serve for large Stocks, and the other being both shorter, smaller, and weaker, for small ones: In order to use those Wedges, that which seems best proportion'd for the Stock that is to be Graffed upon, must be plac'd in the middle of the Cleft that is begun, and when it cannot enter sufficiently, to make the Overture that is necessary, it must be driven in with a Hammer: In fine, the Cleft being partly large enough, to lodge the Graff into it, you must raise or pull down the end of the Tool that serves for a Wedge, with the left hand, in the mean time, with the right, placing the Graff, Cut as aforesaid, to the place where it is to remain; and thus you may make an end of stretching, or closing the Cleft, according as you may judge it proper, when the Graff, or Graffs are plac'd as they should be. I need not tell you, that one Cleft may serve to place two Graffs opposite to one another, and when two more can be plac'd, a second Cleft may be made Croswise upon the Stock, altogether like the first, using the same Method prescrib'd about the two first Graffs.

We sometimes call it Graffing in the Crown, when we place four Graffs Cleftwise upon a Stock, that is large enough to receive them Conveniently; but it is more particularly call'd so, when upon very large shorten'd Stocks we place a greater number of Graffs be∣tween the Wood, and the Bark, for instance, 6, 7, 8. and therefore this kind of Graff, as well as that we call Whip-Graffing can only be perform'd upon such Stocks as exceed three or four Inches Diameter, which cannot be Cleft; but we seldom use either of them, by reason that the success is very uncertain, and the trouble of making them very Considera∣ble;

to that end Twigs are us'd about half an Inch Circumference, with four or five good Eyes, or Buds in their length; they must be Cut slantingly at the Butt-end, insomuch that the slope may be about an Inch long, and that the upper part of it may be Cut close to the Pitch of the said Twig, in order to be as small as possible can be at the end, and where∣as the Sap, which begins to rise from the Foot, passes betwixt the Wood, and the Bark of the Graff, those sloping sides must be plac'd on the side of the Bark of the shorten'd Stock, by which means the Graff will receive its nourishment. But before you place those Graffs, you must take out a little of the Wood of the Stock with a small Joyner's Chizzel, from those parts where it is to be plac'd, loosening the Bark with a tough Wooden Wedge, striking dextrously with a Hammer upon the said Wedge, without prejudicing the Bark; the Graff being lodg'd, the same thing must be done, we have already de∣clar'd to secure the Cleft Graffs from the injuries of the Air.

As for Whipp-Graffing, Slopes or Notches must be made into the Bark, and into the Wood of the shorten'd Stocks, chusing Twigs about an Inch in Circumference, Cutting the Graffs in the same manner as those that are for the Cleft, proportioning the Twig so Cut, so exactly to the Notch of the Stock, that it may enter with some small difficulty, to the end, that the inside of the Barks may meet exactly, and that no space may remain be∣tween the sides of the Graff, and the slop'd, or notch'd sides of the Stock; this being done, you must take one or two large Oziers to bind the Head so Graffed, as firm as can be, that the Graffs may not easily be moved; doing moreover to secure the Head from the Injuries of the Air, what we have already prescrib'd for the Graffs in the Cleft, and in the Crown.

The Authors, and particularly the Ancients, who have written about Graffs, have all * 1.30 made mention of a certain Inoculating, as of a particular manner of Graffing; saying that this Inoculation is to be perform'd by placing the Scutcheon in such a manner, that the Eye or Bud thereof may be exactly plac'd upon that part where there was another Eye before the Incision was made, and they pretend that it is the best Method of applying the Scut∣cheon. Nay, moreover I do believe that they were of Opinion that the Sap of the Stock Graffed upon, could not enter into the Eye or Bud of the said Scutcheon, unless it were inclin'd to it by the Interiour Figure which remains upon the Wood that is strip'd, after the Eye is taken away: To which I answer, in the first place, That the daily Experience of all Gard'ners sufficiently confutes that Opinion, without my insisting upon it: Second∣ly, I answer, not only that there is no advantage by that Inoculating; but moreover, that it is almost impracticable, by reason that the Scutcheon cannot thrive, unless it be absolutely glued to the part to which it is apply'd; and consequently that part must be as smooth as the Scutcheon, which cannot be when a Scutcheon is apply'd upon an Eye, or Bud, which is an Elevated part, that forms a kind of Stub, contrary to what must be plain, and smooth: I have often try'd those Inoculatings, but have always lost my time, and Labour.

CHAP. XV.

Which are the Stocks that have a natural Disposition to re∣receive some kinds of Fruits, each in particular, and to re∣ceive no others.

THE Fruits in question in the Case of Graffing, are reduc'd to those we know by the Names of Pears, Apples, Plums, Peaches, Cherries, Figs, Azerolles, Quince-Apples, Grapes, Sweet-Almonds: To these we might add Medlars, tho' few Gentlemen care for them: As to Oranges, Lemons, and Pomegranats, I have given a sufficient ac∣count about them, in the Treatise of Orange-Trees. Goosberries, Raspberries, Melons, Strawberries, and Avelins are not in the rank of Fruits that may be improv'd by Graffing. Pears succeed very well, Graffed upon Pear-Wildlings grown from Trunks in Woods, and Forrests, and they are the best Fruits to Graff, especially in the Cleft for Dwarfs, they are not fit to be Graffed Scutcheon-wise, their Bark being too thick for it; those Wildlings are likewise very proper for High-standards Graffed in the Cleft. Wildlings grown from Kernels in Nurseries, and the Suckers that shoot from the Roots of the Foot of Old Pear-Trees in Orchards, are likewise good to Graff Pears upon; either to be Budded while they are very young, or Graff'd in the Clef when they are grown large; but they are much

better for Tall-Standards, than for Dwarfs; they are too Vigorous to remain Low, and to submit to the hardships of Pruning.

Quince-stocks, especially such as are very sound, and produce large Leaves, and fine shoots, and have a smooth shining blackish Bark (they are call'd Females, and those that are wrinkled, and shrunk, Males; tho' for my part, I do not admit that difference of Names; it is an Act of Vegetation, in which I only distinguish the degrees of Vigour in every Foot) those kind of good Quince-stocks, I say, are admirable to Graff all manner of Pears upon, against a Wall, or for Dwarf-standards, with a Scutcheon: Nay, sometimes they will grow to be High-standards, being Planted against a Wall, otherwise they are apt to unglue, that is, to separate cleverly from the part where they are Graffed, in great Storins of Wind: The Cleft is seldom, or never proper for those kind of stocks, unless the Quince-stock be large enough to press the Graff close, and even then they must be us'd but seldom.

Nota, That there are some kind of Pears which are difficult to take upon Quince-stocks; for instance, Summer Musky Bon-Chretiens; and Portails; to which I add, lastly, that Pear-Trees Graffed, have as it were that Complaisance for one another, to serve each other Reciprocally for stocks for a change of Graffs: Yet, notwithstanding, some are peevish, and untoward in that Case; for Example, Thick-stalk'd-Pears; Pears are sometimes Graffed upon Apple-stocks, either Wildlings, or Paradice, and upon White-Thorns, and Medlars, but commonly they are not lasting, or else they pine: There is certainly a kind of Antipathy in their Saps, insomuch that they cannot mix together, and can suffer no Commerce of Graffing.

The same thing I have been saying of Pear-Wildlings, and Quince-Trees, in relation to the Graffs of Pear-Trees, which succeed very well upon them, must be said of Apple-Wildings, either grown from Trunks, or Kernels, or Suckers of the Roots of Old Apple-Trees, in Relation to the Apples that are Graffed upon them, with this difference only, which seems surprizing between the Quince, and Paradice-stocks, that the Paradice-stocks, being any thing large, are extraordinary good Graffed in the Cleft, and seldom succeed Graffed with a Scutcheon; whereas it is the clean contrary with Quince-stocks.

Moreover, Apple-Wildings, whatever they be, and however Graffed, are fit to make High-standards, but not in the least fit for Dwarfs; and the quite contrary with Paradice-stocks; insomuch, that Apple-Trees must never be Planted to remain Dwarfs, and take up little room, unless they be Graffed upon Paradice-stocks, these quickly bear Fruit, and shoot but little Wood; the others are a long while producing nothing but a vast quantity of Wood, which makes excessive large Trees, and are long before they bear Fruit: Apples Graffed upon Pear-Trees, or Quince, succeed no better than the Pears that are ventur'd to be Graff'd upon Apple-stocks, or Paradice; altho' the Poet seems of a different Opi∣nion, but I rather believe, that he uses indifferently, for all that relates to Kernel-Fruits, the Terms of Pyrus, Pyrum, Pomus, Pomum.

Plum-Trees are neither Graffed in the Cleft, nor Budded, unless upon other Plum-Trees, * 1.31 and that only upon a small number of kinds, for Instance, upon St. Julians, Black Damask, and little Cherry-Plum, &c. and seldom succeed upon good kinds; for Example, upon Perdrigons, Apricock-Plums, St. Catherin's, &c. I have sometimes Graffed some Plums in the Cleft upon large Almond stocks, which have done indifferent well; but where I suc∣ceeded in one, I lost a great many others, and therefore there is but little to be got in making those kind of Trials.

Peaches, to succeed well, must be Budded, and seldom Graffed in the Cleft, at least in our Climes. Secondly, they must be Inoculated with the close Eye, or shut Bud, and that in a proper Season, as we have heretofore declar'd, either upon St. Julian Plums, or black Damask, or upon Apricock Trees already Graffed, or upon young Almond-Trees of that years growth; they seldom succeed upon Stones of other Peach, or Apricock Trees; neither do Peaches succeed better being Graffed upon the Principal kinds of Plums, than the Plum-Trees themselves, as we have said already; Peaches Budded in the Month of June, are more apt to deceive the Gard'ners hope, than to confirm it; for the Scutcheon either perishes with Gum, without having shot, or often perishes after having shot; or lastly, as it commonly Shoots but weakly during that first Summer, it perishes the following Winter by Cold and by Ice, therefore, they must seldom be Graffed, and that but casually, and upon Stocks, that otherwise would be of no use.

Among what is vulgarly call'd Cherries, we reckon Merises, or a small Wild Cherry, both White and Black, White and Black Hearts, Early and Late Cherries, Griotes, Bigareaux Cerisiers de Pied, White Cherries.

All these kind of Cherries are Graffed except the Meriziers, or small White bitter Cherry, which are not worth it, but then those Meriziers, especially the White ones, which grow

in the Fields, and in Vineyards from each others Suckers, are very good Stocks to Graff other Principal kinds upon; viz. Hasty and Late Cherries, Hearts, Griotes, Bigarreaux, &c. Suckers which Spring from the Root of other Cherries, Produce pretty good Cherries, and serve to be Graffed upon, particularly with Early Cherries, which are a kind of Cherry of a Moderate Size, that are seldom Planted but in Espaliers, to produce Fruit betimes; they are most Valued for their Earliness, and are no longer minded when the fine Cherries which come soon after begin to appear; Early Cherries require no very Vigorous Stocks, as the Merisiers do, which have a far greater Disposition to Shoot abundance of VVood that to bear Fruit Speedily.

You may Graff Fig-Trees if you please, but as I have already said in the Treatise of the Choice of Figs, there accrues but little Advantage by Graffing of them.

Azerolles are Budded, or Graffed in the Cleft, Particularly upon the VVhite-Thorn; they are likewise Graffed some times upon small Pear-VVildlings which Succeed pretty well, and sometimes upon Quince, and Graffed Pear-Trees, but the Success is not very certain.

As for the Quince-Apple it is seldom Graffed, by reason that Quince-Trees Produce Fruit so easily of themselves, yet they may be Graffed upon one another; thus you may Graff Portugal-Quince-Trees upon French ones, you may likewise Graff them upon Pear-Trees, whether Graffed, or Wildlings.

Vines are only Graffed upon old Plants of other Vines, and only in the Cleft; they are shorten'd on purpose for it, and when the Graff is made, the Place so shorten'd must be cover'd with Earth, yet without covering the Twigs or Cyons that are Graffed, the Heat of the Sun, and Drought, would kill the Graff, if it were left expos'd to the Air like the Cleft-Graffs of other Fruit-Trees; there is this difference between the Cleft Graff of Vines, and that of other Fruit-Trees, that the Graff is plac'd indifferently in the middle, or on the sides of the shorten'd Trunk, which cannot be done to other Fruit Trees Graffed in the Cleft, as we have observ'd heretofore.

Meddlar Trees are Graffed either upon other Meddlars, or upon VVhite-Thorn, or Pear-VVildlings, or Pears Trees already Graffed, or else upon Quince-Stocks.

Almond-Trees whether with hard or tender Nuts, grow most Commonly from Almonds put into the Ground, or Graffed upon one another.

CHAP. XVI.

Of Nurseries and Seminaries.

IT is proper to begin this Chapter, by saying that our Nurseries require a good Easie Soil, or ground, well Till'd, having at least two Foot and a half Depth; the Trees must be placed in rows at three Foot distance, according to the largeness of the Trees, and at a Foot and a half, two or three Foot distance from one another in the said rows, still according to the proportion of the Sizes: Of all VVildlings Almonds are plac'd closest in the Rows. Tis easy to conclude, from what I have been saying in the foregoing Chap∣ter, about all kinds of Fruits to be Graffed, what kind of Stocks are most proper to make Nurseries of all kind of Fruits.

First, for Pears you must Plant VVildlings out of VVoods and Forests, or VVildlings grown from Kernels, or Suckers Sprouted from the Roots of old Pear-Trees, or else Plant Quince-Trees, all which must be well Condition'd both as to the Roots and Stem.

Secondly, For the Apple-Tree Seminary; when you design to have them High-Standards, you must Plant pretty large VVildlings, taken out of VVoods and Forrests, to Graff them in the Cleft, or Kernel VVildlings to Inoculate them, when they are about two Inches Cir∣cumference, and are to shoot up, in order to become High-Standards; and when you de∣sign to make a Seminary of Dwarfs, you must Plant Paradice-Apple-Trees, at a Foot di∣stance in the rows: And that, by reason that those kind of little Apple-Trees shoot but few Roots, and Consequently require but little Room.

Thirdly, To make a Seminary of Plum-Trees, you must only Plant the Suckers of certain Plum-Trees, viz, St. Julian, Black-Damask, the little Cherry-Plum, those that are large enough to bear it, are Graffed in the Cleft, and the lesser with the Scutcheon.

Fourthly, Good Seminaries for Peaches, must consist of St. Julian, and Black Damask Plum-Trees, which must be Inoculated or Budded in the Months of July or August, or young Almond-Trees, that is, Almond-Trees grown from an Almond Plant∣ed

in good Grounds in the VVinter time, grown about September following half an Inch thick, to be Budded at that time: Old Almond-Trees of two or three Years standing are hot proper to be Graffed.

Fifthly, to make Nurseries of red Stone-fruit, viz. Cherries, Griottes, Bigarreaux; no Stocks are so proper as Merisiers, which is a small wild bitter Cherry, especially such as beat whitish ones; the Sap of the black ones is commonly so bitter, that the Graffs of good Cherries do not take upon them, or always pine away.

Suckers which spring from the Roots of other Cherries may serve to Graff good Cherries upon, but they are most proper to be Graffed with early Cherries.

Sixthly, Fig-Tree Seminaries are Planted with Suckers sprouted from the Foot of Old Fig-Trees, or with Branches of two years standing laid into the Ground, and notch'd in that part which is most bent, and laid into that Ground.

Seventhly, for the Nursery of Azeroles, you must only Plant White-Thorn, and some few Quince-stocks.

Eighthly, no Nurseries are made for Vines, they are seldom Graffed otherwise than upon Old Plants, ready Planted.

Finally, for Medlars, People seldom make any particular Nurseries, the least quantity of them is sufficient, a dozen Wildlings of that kind, or White-Thorn, or Quince-stocks; are sufficient to provide for the Largest Gardens.

Before I proceed to the Sixth Part, I think it will not be altogether improper to give my Opinion about the different kinds of Lattices, to the end that People may determine at first to pitch upon that which I value most, and indeed, which is the most Noble, and most Convenient.

CHAP. XVII.

Of the different manners of Lattices us'd to Pallisade.

FRom the very Moment we resolve to Enclose our Garden with Walls, we certainly design to have Fruit against them, and consequently must prepare whatever is neces∣sary * 1.32 to Pallisade the Trees that are to be Planted there, neatly, and Conveniently.

The First Observation I have made in Relation thereto, is, that one cannot be too careful in having the Walls well Pargetted, or Plaistred over when it can be done Con∣veniently; in order to stop all the holes from Rats, Snails, Earwigs, and other Vermin which destroy the Fruits, and commonly attack the Fairest, and best, and thereby con∣tinually Plague the Curious.

When the Walls are Pargetted with Plaister, we have the Convenience to Ply, or Pal∣lisade the Branches with Nails, and Shreads of Sheep's-Skin, or Shamoy, or Lists of Cloath, both about half a finger broad, and a finger long against the said Walls, put∣ting the Stays about the Branch, and fixing it upwards with a Nail, we thus form the Figure of our Trees. This manner of Pallisading is very agreeable, but tedious; those Shreads may last a year or two, the only thing that can be said against it is, that sometimes Earwigs shelter in them in the day time, and come out at Night, to in∣dammage the Trees.

Those who are not willing to use those Shreads, have try'd three or four ways of Pallisading, some for all manner of Walls, but especially for such as are made of Earth, and Hey, as they do in Beausse, and Normandy; some fix Spikes from space to space into the Wall, sticking out about two Inches, to fasten Laths, Poles, Perches, or Switches upon them: Others make a Lattice of Poles, supported by the Bones of Horses, or Oxen, fix'd into the Wall, to which they fasten the Branches of their Trees: Others have abundance of Sheeps feet Bones fix'd into their Walls at a small distance, in a straight Line, and so bind every Branch of their Tree to one of the said Feet; some make a Lattice of narrow Laths nail'd a cross one another checker-wise, every square consisting of about twelve Inches; and this Lattice being made by whole, or half Fathoms, separate, they fix them to the Walls with Nails, or Hooks, that are driven into the joynts of the Stones; it is a pretty good Expedient, but neither Gentile, nor Handsom.

Some who yet covet cheapness beyond these, make a Lattice of Brass or Iron Wire, of a moderate size, supported by flat-headed Nails fix'd into the Walls. Others have been satisfy'd with barely fixing streight Lines of this Wire, either longwise, or crosswise: These two last Methods are pretty neat, but not very good; both by reason that they are too weak, insomuch that the thick Branches, that sometimes require to be forc'd, either break, of▪ stretch them; and that this Wire is apt to wound and scratch the young, and consequently tender Branches, which occasions Gum to grow upon them, which destroys them; besides, those young Shoots slip too easily behind those Wires, from whence it is not easie to remove them, without spoiling of them.

The best manner of all, the most Convenient, and most Noble, is a Lattice of quar∣ter Wood, or Heart of Oak; every Pole or Lath about an Inch square, and as much as can be without knobs, they must be very well plain'd, and notch'd in such places as re∣quire it; those that are not plain'd, are course, and ugly. I confess that this Lattice is chargeable at first, but then it is more lasting, and requires less mending: The square fathom of that Lattice amounts constantly to 25, 26, 27, and 28 Pence, for the Wood, Making, Wire and all.

In order to make this Lattice as it should be, you must have Iron Hooks made on purpose, they must be square, about a quarter of an Inch thick, and half a Foot long; besides, the end which turns upwards in a streight Angle, which must be above an Inch and a half long, the end which enters into the Wall, must be forked, to hold the faster into the Wall, into which it must enter about four Inches deep, two Inches on the outside will suffice.

Those Hooks cost commonly about a Penny a piece, they must be plac'd at three foot distance, and always Checker-wise, beginning the first Row within a foot of the surface of the Ground, continuing it to the top of the Wall; the rows of those Hooks must lie in a streight Line, and parallel to one another; that is all I have to say about the Hooks.

As to the Poles, or Laths, you may buye them in Shops, of different lengths, Viz. Of Four Foot and a half, of Six, Seven, Eight, or Nine; some are made of twelve Foot, but seldom, because it is too difficult to slit such long pieces of Wood; you may take them of what length you please, according to the heighth of your Walls; they are Sold in Bundles, those of Four Foot and a half, contain Forty, and Cost Eleven Pence, those of Six, cost Twelve Pence, and contain Five and Twenty; those of Seven, Eight, and Nine; likewise contain Twenty Five, and cost somewhat more.

The best and most useful way is to make those that stand upwards all of a piece, when you can, but yet you may joyn two or three, such as you can get, and they are much cheaper; they must be joyn'd together neatly, plaining and proportioning the Extremities that are to be Marry'd together exactly, tying them afterwards very close with Wire; to which end, you must use small Pinchers made on purpose, with which you may pull the Wire towards you, and turn and wind it until the Ligature be strong enough, then break the end close to the knot, and fasten the said knot against the Laths, lest it should prejudice the Gard'ner, or Branch.

In chusing the Poles, or Laths, take the streightest, and weakest, to serve in a streight Line, by reason that they always appear on the outside, placing the Butt-end downwards; the strongest must be imploy'd crosswise to support the Work; the Squares of the Lattice must be regularly about 7 or 8 Inches, they do not look well of ten or twelve Inches, and in my Opinion, they are too little of 5 or 6 Inches for Espaliers; but they may be im∣ploy'd for those kind of Arbors, that are of late in fashion. A good Maker of Lattice should never work without a regulated measure in hand for his Checkers, measuring every one of them carefully; he must leave an Inch between the Laths, and the Wall, and when the Hooks are too short, he must make use of a Wooden Wedge, and hold it between the Laths, and the Wall, in order to have more room to pass his Wire.

The Lattice must not only appear neatly made to the Eye, it must also be solid, which is easily known by shaking one of the Laths; for it is not as it should be unless it resists the hand.

I must not forget to tell you, that you must use but one straight Lath in Corners, to fasten the two Lattices of two Walls that joyn, two would look clumsily, the one on one side of a Wall, the other, on the other.

The last Perfection of our Lattice consists in being painted first with White, and when that is dry, with a fine Mountain Green.

We do not only make Lattice frames for Walls, we likewise make them sometimes for a kind of Counter-Espalier, or Pole-Hedges, which Lattice frames may be made four, five, or six foot high, according as you please: In Order to its being solid, it is necessary to stick

Oaken Spikes into the Ground, at five or six foot distance from one another, about four Inches square, driving them about a foot deep into the ground, the outward Extremity being pointed, to last the longer, for if it were square, the Rain would Rot it the sooner; as for the size, and the place to fasten the Wire, the Checkers must be like those of the Espaliers, with this only difference; that in Pole-Hedges, the Poles or Laths must be fix'd with Nails into the Body of the Spikes, which must be notch'd in order thereunto.

The End of the Fifth Part.

[illustration]

OF FRUIT-GARDENING AND Kitchen-Gardens. VOL. II. PART VI.

Of the Culture of Kitchen-Gardens.

THere's nothing seems less unknown than the Art of Cultivating Kitchen-Gar∣dens. * 1.33 It has been universally practised in all Ages, and almost in all Climates of the World, and the care to bring up and multiply in select places, some Herbs and Legumes, or Edible Plants, which Nature had produced promi∣scuously in the midst of the wild Fields, and which the first Men used for their only Food, has been, and still continues to be the Occupation of a great number of all sorts of People. And indeed, how many do we see, that being weary and tired, either with the fatigues of War, or the drudgery of publick Employments, or with the idleness of a City or Court Life, have chosen to retreat into the Country, to go (as our Proverb * 1.34 says) and plant Cabbages, and how many others are there, that take an extream pleasure in entertaining their Friends with Herbs and Sallets out of their own Gardens, stiffly main∣taining, that they taste much better than those bought in the Markets, and of common Gard'ners? And therefore since Kitchen-Gardens have been planted in all times, have I not some reason to fear, it may appear at first, either ridiculous or impertinent for me to subjoyn here a particular Treatise of that sort of Gardens.

I answer, that I will not deny but that almost as soon as there were Men upon the Earth, they had some kind of Kitchen-Gardens, and that in process of time, the curiosity of their Cultivation has been extreamly augmented, and has made mighty advances, and I am far from pretending, that the first sowing of Sallets, and Roots, and planting of Cabbages, and Artichokes, and rearing of Cucumbers, Melons, &c. begun in our days. No, I know well enough, that our Ancestours understood what belonged to the Culture of all those plants, and that the most part of the very Country-people, and of the meaner sort of the inhabi∣tants

of Cities, have some Tincture of it; nay, and I will ingenuously confess, that the knowledge I have my self in the management of Kitchen-Gardens, was chiefly attained by my often conversing with what we vulgarly call, able Market-Gard'ners. But I must add withall that as the Kitchen-Garden taken in a general sence, comprehends the Culture of a great number of different sorts of Plants, so there is hardly any Gard'ner that has made it his Business, to be skilful in cultivating generally all the sorts of them; it having ordinarily hapned, that one has applyed himself to the care and improvement of one particular part of this culture, which he has performed exactly well, neglecting the rest, whilst another has employed his industry, no less particularly in that which his Neighbour had neglected, and succeeded in it, as much sighting on his side, that other part in which the same Neighbour had so prosperously laboured; the different appetites of Men, but more especially, the different goodness of Soils and Climates, having been the true causes of those different affectations in the Cultivation of Pot or Kitchen-Plants.

Now it being undoubtedly necessary for a Gentleman's Gard'ner to be able to perform with equal skill and happiness, all the parts of Culture belonging to a Kitchen-Garden, that so he alone may be in a condition to furnish his Master with all the variety that a good Kitchen-Garden can produce, without wanting at least any of those productions that are of most importance, and it being no less expedient too for the Gentleman him∣self to know exactly what he may expect from his Gard'ner every Month in the Year, and what is the particular work that is to be done in every Season; I have therefore ta∣ken care to omit nothing that is necessary for either of them to be informed in, that the one may be able to give content by knowing how perfectly well to discharge his Duty, and the other be contented, when he knows he has sufficient Reason to be so. In or∣der to which, by way of answer to those, that may ask me what I pretend to say that is new, upon a Subject which I my self confess to be so very well known,

I shall first repeat the same thing which I have already laid down, and inculcated, as my intention in all the parts of this Work, viz. That I write not here for those which are actually Gard'ners by Profession, and that are skillful in it, but for the in∣struction, as well of those that have a mind to become so, as for Gentlemen that are cu∣rious in Gard'ning, being well assured there are a great many of these Latter, though ignorant in the particulars of this Science, that esteem it not unworthy of their Curiosity, and are fully perswaded it is capable of giving them Pleasure as well as Profit, and being no less certain, that I my self found a great deal in pursuing the acquisition of those lights I have attained in it, therefore I cannot but think, it will be sweet and gratefull to them to enjoy without Pains, the Fruits of the study I have made therein, and to find out an exact and faithful Collection of all that concerns this matter.

In the second Place, I shall answer, that 'tis my design to cut out a shorter way than the common Roads, for those young Persons who though very desirous of learn∣ing the Art of Gard'ning, yet would willingly be instructed by some other means than by bare seeing others Practice, it being a tedious and uncertain way, and had rather be taught by stated Rules and Principles, which, I think may be done in a little time, and by very short and easie methods.

Thirdly, I reply, that I shall set down here some particular experiments which I my self have made with Success, and which seem to me never to have been made before, and I think I may add, that they have been too well approved, not to merit to be di∣vulged.

Lastly, I answer, that my intention is to give such Directions, that the place designed for a Kitchen-Garden may be so well ordered in all its parts, that not only each part may perform its duty in respect of its Productions but by the accurate Symmetry and Proportion observ'd in modelling of the whole, it may be in a Condition to allure the Spectators, and at all times to delight the Eyes of the Curious.

And accordingly for these Reasons, I purpose here to follow exactly the Model and Platform I have already delineated and explained at the beginning of these Treatises of Gard'ning, conformably to which, I shall set down,

First, every thing that generally speaking, should be in all sorts of good and well∣furnisht Kitchen-Gardens, to which I shall add a Description of the Seeds and other things which serve for the Production and Multiplication of every particular Plant.

In the second place, I shall specifie not only all the things that may be gathered out of a Kitchen-Garden every Month of the Year, but also what work Gard'ners are to do in every one of those Months, and to those two heads I will joyn another, viz. a parti∣cular account of what should at all times be found in any Kitchen-Garden whatsoever, that

so we may be able to judge when there is any thing wanting in it, and when not.

Thirdly, I will explain what sort of Earth or Soil, and what sort of Culture are most proper for each sort of plants, to make them excellent; and because some of them are sown to remain always in the same place, and some, only to be transplanted elsewhere, and some again are propagated without Seed; I will give Directions at the same time how to order all of them, as well in respect to the Seasons in which they are to be sown or planted, as the manner of their Propagation.

Fourthly, I will shew how long each sort may profitably occupy its place, and which of them must be laid up in store for our Winter Provision, and which may by the help of Industry be produced in spite of the Frosts.

And fifthly and lastly, I will inform you how long any sort of Seed will last without spoiling, they having not all the same destiny in that Matter.

CHAP. I.

What things should be planted in any Kitchen-Garden of a reasonable extent, to render it compleatly furnished.

ALL the World is agreed, that there are few days in the whole Year in which we can be well without the assistance of the Kitchen-Gardens, whether it be in the fair and fruitful Season, whilst they are still growing on the Earth that first pro∣duced them, when we have no more to do but to go and gather them there; or in Winter when we must fetch them out of the Store-rooms, where we had timely laid them up for Security, before the arrival of the bitter cold, which not only makes the Earth unfruitful for a time, but destroys too a great part of those Vegetables which are so un∣happy as to be within its reach; and therefore it follows, that every day of the Year, we must be furnisht with what we need of this Nature, out of our own Gardens of Stores, or elsewhere, either by the liberality of our Friends, or what is most common from the Markets.

That you may therefore have at one view, the knowledge of what composes this a∣greeable assistance, that may be drawn out of the Kitchen-Garden. I shall here present you with a kind of Alphabetical Inventory of all the things that such a Garden should, and may furnish us with, throughout the whole course of the year.

A.

• ALenois Cresses. Vid. Cresses.
• Alfange, a sort of Roman Lettuce.
• Alleluia, Wood-sorrel, alias French-Sorrel, or Sharp Trefoil.
• Anis.
• Artichokes, both Green, Violet and Red.
• Artichokes, Costons, or Slip-suckers.
• Asparagus.
• Aromaticks; see Fine Herbs.

B.

• BAlm, called in French, Melisse.
• Basil or Basilick, both the Greater and the Lesser.
• Bays, the common sorts.
• Hot Beds, of several sorts, as for Sallets, and Spring-Radishes, and the first Early Strawberries, as for Musk-melons, Cucum∣bers, and Mushroons, and for raising some sorts of Flowers in the Winter, and other Plants to set again in the naked Earth, and for the forcing of Sorrel and Cabbage Let∣tuce, &c. to advance.
• Beet-Raves, or Red Beets, to produce Roots for Sallets.
• White Beets called Poirée, for Chards.
• Beans both of the common sort, and those called Harico's, or French Kidney Beans; as also Venetian Beans called Feve∣rolles.
• Bonne Dame, or Good Lady.
• Borage.
• Bour delais, or Verjuice Grape, both Red and White.
• Bucks horn Sallet.
• Bugloss.
• Burnet, called in French, Pimpernel.

C.

• CAbbages of all sorts.
• Capers of the Ordinary sort.
• Capucin Capers, called otherwise Nusturces.
• Caprons, a sort of Strawberries.
• Spanish Cardons.
• ...

• Carlots.
• Cellery.
• Chalots, vid Shalots, and Eschalots.
• Chards of Artichokes.
• Chards of Beets.
• Chassela's Grapes.
• Cheril, Musked and Ordinary.
• Chervi, or Skirrets.
• Chicons, the same with Alfange.
• Ciboules.
• Citrulls or Pompions, or Pumpkins.
• Cives.
• Colyflowers, and Coleworts, both comprehen∣ded under Cabbage in French.
• Cresses, as Al••nois or Garden Cresses.
• Cucumbers.
• Currans, which with Gooseberries, are both called Groseilles in French, and distin∣guish'd into the Prickly, the Red, and the Pearled.

D.

• Dragons or Estragon, a Sallet.

E.

• ENdive, White or Tame, as well the Cur∣led as the Plain, called in French Chicorée or Succory, as also the Wild sort.
• Eschalots, vid. Shalots.
• Estragon or Dragons, a Sallet.

F.

• FEnnel.
• French-Sorrel; see Allcluja.
• Furnitures for Sallets, which with the French, are Spare-mint, called by them Balm, as also Estragon, or Dragons, English Cives, Fennil, Chervil, as well the common as the Musked sort, and Basil, &c.
• Fine Herbs, called in English, Sweet-Herbs, but meant by the French of all hot scen∣ted Herbs, as Ti••e, Morjarom, Lavender, Rhue, Worm-wood, Hysop, &c. which are planted in Borders.

G.

• ...GArlick.
• Gooseberries, together with Currans, both confounded, under the name of Gro∣seilles in French, and distinguish'd into the Prickly, the Red, and the Pearled.
• Good Lady, vid. Bonne Dame.

H.

• HYsop.

L.

• LAvender in Borders.
• Leeks.
• Lettice of all sorts, according to the Sea∣sons, as well to sow in rows, or small Furrows, to cut when little, as to Cabbage, and to bind up, viz. the Coquille or Shell-Lettuce, alias the Winter, and the Passion Lettuce, the Curl'd bright Lettuce, and the Green Curl'd Lettuce, the Little Red Lettuce, the Short Lettuce, the Royal Let∣tuce, the Bellegarde, the Lettuce of Genua, of Perpignan, and of Auberviliers, the Impe∣rial, and the Roman Lettuce, which compre∣hends all the Chicons, both the Green and Red, otherwise called the Alphange Let∣tuce, and they are to tie up.

M.

• MAcedonian Parsty. Vid. Parsly.
• Mâches.
• Mallou's and Marsh-mallo••s.
• Marjoram in Borders.
• Melons or Musk-melons.
• Mint, called in French, Balm.
• Muskat, or Musk-grapes, both the White, the Black, and the Red.
• The Long Muscat, alias, the Passe-Musquée•• Mushrooms.

N.

• NAsturces, or Capucin Capers. See Ca∣pers.

O.

• ONions, both the Red and the White.

P.

• PArsly, as well the Common as the Cur∣led.
• Macedonian Parsly.
• Parsnips.
• Patience, a sort of Sorrel. Vid. Sorrel.
• Pease, from the Month of May, which are the Hastings, till Allhallow-tide.
• Passe Musquée. See Muscats.
• Piercepier, a sort of Stone Parsly.
• Pompions or Pumpkins, called in French, Ci∣truls.
• Potirons, a sort of flat Pumpion or Pumpkin.
• Purslain, both of the Green, and Golden or Red sort.

R.

• RAdishes, both in Spring, Summer, and Autumn.
• Raspberries, both Red and White.
• Responces, or Field-Radishes.
• Rue.
• Rocamboles, or Spanish Garlick.
• Rocket, a kind of Sallet. Furniture.
• Rose-mary.
• Rubarb.

S.

• SAge.
• Salsisie, or Goat's-Beard.
• Saracens or Turky Wheat.
• Savory.
• Scorzonera, or Spanish Salsi••ie.
• Sellery. See Cellery.
• Shalots. See Eschalots.
• Smallage.
• Sorrel, both the Great, the Little, and the Round.
• Spinage.
• Spare-Mint. See Mint.
• Straw-berries, both Red and White.
• Succory. Vide. Endive.
• Suckers of Artichokes.
• Sweet Herbs. See Fine Herbs or Aromaticks.
• Sharp Trefoil. See Alleluia.

T.

• TIme for Borders.
• Tripe-Madam.
• Sharp Trefoil, vid. Alleluia.
• Turkey or Saracens Wheat.
• Turneps.

V.

• VErjuice Grapes, vid. Bourdelais.
• Vines.
• Violets in Borders.

W.

• VVHeat. See Turkey and Saracen••
• Wheat.
• Worm-wood for Borders.
• Wood-sorrel. See Alleluia.

CHAP. II.

Containing a Description of the Seeds, and other things which contribute to the production and Multiplication of every sort of Plant, or Legume.

A Alenois Cresses: See Cresses. Alfange: See Lettuce.

ALLELUIA, or Wood, or French Sorrel, is a sort of Trefoil, that is multiplied only by Runners or slips, which sprout from the foot of it, as do Violets and Dai∣ses, &c. It bears a White Flower, but no seed.

Anis, Is propagated only by seed, which is pretty small, and of a yellowish Green, and is of a longish Oval Figure, Striped: Which Oval is Bunched on one side. In a word, it is altogether like Fennel-seed.

Artichoaks, are commonly multiplied only by their Oeillitons or little Eyes, or Off-Sets which are a sort of Kernals, which grow about the heart of the foot of their plants, ••hat is, in that part that separates the Root from the Eye or bud, out of which the stemm grows that produces the Artichockes: These little Eyes or off-sets begin commonly to breed at the very end of Autumn, or in Winter, when it is mild, and shoot forth their Leaves in the Spring, that is at the end of March, and in the month of April, at which time, we grope about the foot of the Artichoke, and separate or slip off these Suckers or off-sets, in French called little Eyes, and that is called Slipping, or dis-Eyeing.

These off-sets or suckers to be good, should be White about the heel, and have some little roots; those that are black about the heel, are old, and produce but very little Ar∣tichokes in the spring, whereas the others stay till August, September, or October, before they bring theirs to perfection, according to the intention of the Gard'ner.

Sometimes Artichokes are multiplied by the seed, which grows in the Artichoke bottoms, when they are suffered to grow old, to flower, and to open, and lastly to dry, about Midsummer.

When we tie them up in Autumn, we wrap and cover them up to their whole length, with straw or old dung, and so Whiten the Cottony sides of their leaves, to make Arti∣choke Chards of.

Asparagus, or Sparagras are propagated only by seeds which is black, a little oval, round on one side, and very flat on the other, about the bigness of a great pin's head, and grows in a shell, or round Cod, which is Red, and about the bigness of an ordi∣nary Pea; there are four or six seeds in each shell, and those shells grow in Autumn, upon the head of those Asparagus plants that are a little fairer and stronger than the rest. Sometimes those shells are sown whole, but the best way is to break them, and beat the seeds out of them. The time of sowing them is about the end of March.

B

BAlm, in French, Melisse, is multiplied only by Runners and Cuttings.

Basil, or Basilick, as well the Great, as the Small sort is multiplied by seed, which is of a blackish cinnamon colour, and very Small and a little oval, and is propagated no other way but that.

The common Bay, or Bays, is propagated by seeds which are Black, or else by Lay∣ers.

Beans, as the Marsh or Common Beans, which are pretty thick and long, of an oval figure, round at one end, and flat at the other, with a black list or Crease pretty thick and broad, of a sullied White colour, having a smoother skin than the Haricauts, or Kid∣ney Beans, which are likewise long and oval, but narrower, lesser, and thinner than the other, having a black list in the middle of one of the sides of the oval, which is round on one side, and a little bending Inward on the other. The Feverolles, or Venetian Beans, dister only from these last, in that they are a little less, and are some of them White, some Red, and some mottled with several Colours; there is one sort of them that is very small. Every body knows, they all grow in Cods.

Beet-Raves, or Beet-Radishes, that is, Red-Beets to produce Roots for Sallets, are mul∣tiplied only by Seeds, which are about the bigness of middling Peas, and round, but all gravelly in their roundness; they are yellowish, and so like those of the White Beet, that they are hardly to be distinguish'd one from the other, so that People are often mista∣ken, thinking they have sown Red Ones for Roots, and see nothing come up but White Beets; they are planted apart when designed to run to Seed.

White Beets, called Porrêe or Poirée, for Chards are also propogated only by Seed, which is like that of the Red Beets, only 'tis of a little duller colour: They are replanted to produce Chards.

Bonne-Dame, or Good Lady, is multiplied only by Seed, which is extreamly flat, and thin, and is round and reddish.

Borage is propagated only by Seed, which is black, and of a long bunchy Oval Fi∣gure, and having commonly a little white end towards the base or bottom, which is quite separated from the rest, the length is all Engraven as 'twere with black streaks from one end to the other.

Bugloss is likewise only multiplied by Seed, which is so like that of Borage, that they cannot be known asunder.

Buckshorn Sallet is multiplied only by Seed, which is one of the least we have; it is besides that, longish, and of a very dark Cinnamon colour, and grows in a Husk like a Rats Tail.

Burnet is propagated only by Seed, which is pretty big, and a little Oval, with four sides, and is all over engraven as 'twere in the spaces between those four sides.

C.

CAbbages, called in French, Choux, and comprehending both Cabbage, Coleworts, and Colyflowers of all kinds, of what Nature soever they be, are multiplied only by Seed, which is about the bigness of an ordinary Pin, or of Birding Powder, and is reddish, in∣clining to a brown Cinnamon colour.

Capucin Capers. See Nasturces.

Caprons. See Strawberries.

Spanish Cardons are propagated only by Seed, which is longish, oval, and about the bigness of a fair Wheat Corn; it is of a greenish, or Olive colour, mark'd with black streaks from one end to the other, and is Sown from the middle of April to the end.

Carrots are multiplied only by Seeds, which are small and oval, the sides of which are wrought with little streaks, or longish points very small; and one side of the flat part of the Seed is a little fuller, and more raised than the other, and both of them are marked long-ways with streaks; they are of the colour of a dead Leaf.

Collery is multiplied only by Seed, which is very small, yellowish, and of a longish oval Figure, and a little bunched.

Chalots: See Eschalots.

Chards of Artichokes: See Artichokes.

Chards of Beets: See Beets.

Chervil is multiplied only by Seed, which is black, very small, and pretty longish; striped long-ways; it grows upon the Plants that were Sown in the Autumn before, and Knits and Ripens in the Month of June.

Musked Chervil is multiplied likewise only by Seed, which is longish, black, and pretty big.

Chervi or Skirrets is multiplied only by Seed, which is oval, longish, and pretty small and narrow, streaked from one end to the other, and of the colour of a grayish white dead Leaf, and flat at one end.

Ciboules, or small Onions, are propagated only by Seed, of the bigness of a corn of or∣dinary Gun-powder, a little flat on one side, and half round on the other, and yet a little long and oval, and white on the inside; so like to which are the Seeds of both the Red and White Onion, and of Leeks, that it is very hard to distinguish them one from the other: Ciboules are Sown in all Seasons.

Citrulls, Pumpions, or Pumkins, are propagated only by Seeds, which are of a flat oval Figure, and pretty large and whitish, and are as 'twere neatly edged about the sides, excepting only at the bottom, where they stuck to the Citrull or Pumpion, in whose Belly they were formed.

Cives, called English Cives, are multiplied only by little Off-sets that grow round about their Tufts, which grow very big in time, from which a part of those Off-sets are taken to Replant.

Colyflowers: See Cabbages.

Coleworts: See Cabbages.

Cresses, called Alènois Cresses, are multiplied only by Seed, which is of a longish oval figure, small, and of an Orange yellow colour.

Cucumbers, or Cowcumbers, are propagated only by Seed, which is oval, a little pointed at both ends, but a little less at the lower end or bottom than at the other, out of which springs its Bud or Sprout; it is of a midling thickness, of a whitish colour, and is gathered out of the Bellies of those Cucumbers that are grown yellow with ripeness.

The Curran-Bushes, whose Fruit grows in Bunches, both the Red, and the White, called Dutch Currans; as also Goosberry-Bushes, called in French, Groseilles, as well as Cur∣rans, and named Picquans, or Prickly Groseilles, are multiplied as well by slips that are a little Rooted, that Sprout out of the foot of their Stocks every year in the Spring, as by simple Cuttings; we also Replant their Stocks of two or three years old.

D.

THe Dock, called Patience, being a sort of Sorrel, is multiplied only by Seed, which is like Sorrel Seed, only a little bigger.

Dragons, or Estragon, a Sallet: See Estragon.

E.

WHite Endive, called in French, Chicorée, i. e. Succory, is multiplied only by Seed, which is longish, and of a whitish grey colour, flat at one end, and roundish at the other, and grows upon the Stocks or Stems of the preceeding years growth; one would take it almost for nothing else but little bits of Herb cut pretty small.

Wild Endive, or Succory, is also propagated only by Seed, which is longish and black∣ish, and grows as the other doth.

Eshalottes, or Shalotts: See Shalots.

Estragon, or Dragons, being a Sallet, is multiplied only by Runners, or Cuttings.

F.

FEnnel is propagated only by Seed, which is pretty small, longish and oval, bunched, and streaked with greenish grey streaks.

French Sorrel: See Alleluia.

G.

GArlick is produced by a kind of Kernels, or Off-sets, which grow in great numbers about its Foot, and make all together a kind of Bulb like an Onion, which Kernels are called the Cloves of the Garlick; every Clove being concave or hollow on the inside, and convex, or bending outwards on the out-side, having at its lower end, a flat base or bottom, by which it is fastned to the body of the Foot or Stalk, out of which the Roots spring; and having on the top a pointed end, out of which springs its Bud, or Shoot, when it is planted in the Earth in the Months of March or April, in order to its bringing forth.

Good Lady: See Bonne Dame.

Goosberry-Bushes: See Curran-Bushes.

H.

HYssop, or Hysope, is propagated only by slips.

L.

LAvender is multiplied by Seed, and by the old Stocks or Plants replanted.

Lawrel, or Laurel: See Bays.

Leeks are multiplied only by Seed, which is altogether like that of Ciboules; they are Replanted in the Month of May, very deep in the Earth, to make their Stalks and Plants thick and white; and they are Sown in March as soon as the Frost will permit; their Seed grows in a kind of thick white Purse, which is round, and grows upon the top of a good long Stalk, and it keeps a pretty long time in that Purse or Hood before it falls.

Lettuces, of what sort so ever they be, are multiplied only by Seed, which is of a longish oval figure, streaked long-ways, sharp pointed at the ends, and very small; some are black, as those of Aubervilliers, but the most of them are white: when they are Sown in the Spring they run to Seed in the Month of July after; but the Winter Lettuces, called otherwise Shell Lettuces, after having past the Winter in the place where they were Re-planted in October run up to Seed in the Month of July following.

M.

MAcedonian Parsly: See Parsly.

Mâches, or Masches, are multiplied only by Seed, which is very small, and of an Orange colour.

Mallows, or Marsh-Mallows, are propagated only by Seeds, which are like one another in shape, but yet are different as well in colour as in bigness; for the Seed of the Mallows is much bigger than that of the Marsh-Mallows, and that of this latter is of a deeper brown than that of the plain Mallows; they are both Triangular, and streaked all over.

Marjoram is propagated only by Seed, which is very little, and shaped almost like a Limon, more pointed on one side than on the other; it is speckled in some places with little white specks, and is as 'twere streaked with white all over; it is of a pretty light Cinnamon colour.

Melons, or Musk-Melons, are multiplied by a Seed, which is like that of a Cucumber, excepting in colour, which in Melons is of a pale red, and is not so broad as that of the others; they are taken out of the Bellies of ripe Musk-Melons.

Mint, or Spare-Mint, called in French, Balm, is multiplied only by Runners that are like so many Arms that spring out of its Tuft, and take Root; it likewise is propagated by Cuttings, but bears no Seed.

Muscat: See Vines.

N.

NAsturces, commonly called Capucin Capers, are multiplied only by Seed, which is a kind of Pea or Haricot, or French-Bean, which climbs and gets up upon Branches or Poles which are near it; the Leaf of it is pretty large, and the flower, of an Orange colour; the figure of the Seed is a little Pyramidal, divided by Ribs, having all its superficies engra∣ven, and wrought all over, being of a grey colour, inclining to a light Cinnamon: They are Sown in hot Beds about the end of March, or the beginning of April, and af∣terwards they are Replanted by some Wall well exposed. The Seed easily falls as soon as ever 'tis Ripe, as doth that of Borage, and the Belles de Nuit, or Night Fair Ones; and therefore they must be carefully gathered.

O.

ONions, as well the White, as the Red, are multiplied only by Seed, which as I have already said, is like that of Ciboules.

P.

PArsly, as well the Common, as the Curled sort, is multiplied only by Seed, which is little and very small, and of a greenish grey colour, and a little bending inward on one side, and all over streaked with little rising streaks from one end to the other.

Macedonian Parsly or Alisanders is also propagated only by Seed, which is pretty big and oval, and a little more full and swelling on one side than on the other, which bends a lit∣tle inward, streaked throughout its whole length; and is also streaked a cross on the edges between the sides.

Passe-pierre: See Pierce-Pierre.

Parsnips are multiplied only by Seed, which is flat, and of a round figure, a little oval, and as if it were hemmed or edged, streaked throughout its length, and is of the colour of a brownish Straw.

Patience: See Dock.

Passe-Musquee: See Muscats, and Vines.

Peas, or Pease, are multiplied only by Seed; there are great Ones, little Ones, white Ones or yellow Ones, and green Ones. All the world knows they grow in Cods, and are almost round, and sometimes half flat.

Perce-Pierre vulgarly called Passe-Pierre, i. e. Pass, or Pierce Stone, being a kind of Stone-Parsly, is multiplied only by Seed, which is more long than round, pretty big, of a greenish grey colour, striped on the Back and Belly, and resembling a Lute in shape.

Pimpernell: See Burnet.

Pompions, or Pumpions, or Pumkins: See Citrulls.

Potirons, a sort of Flat Citrulls, or Pumpions, are multiplied only by Seed, which is altogether like that of the Common Citrull, or Pumpion, and grows in the same manner.

Purslain, as well of the Green, as Red, or Golden sort, is multiplied only by Seed, which is black, and extraordinary small, and of a half flat roundish figure. To have a good Crop of this Seed, the Purslain Plants must be Replanted at the end of May, at a full Foot distance one from the other: The Seed grows in little Husks or Shells, each of which contain a great many, and when we are to gather it, we cut off all the heads of the Stalks, and lay them to dry a little in the Sun, and then we beat the Seed out, and Fan, or Screen it.

R.

RAdishes are multiplied by Seed, which is round, pretty thick, and of a reddish Cin∣namon colour; it grows in a kind of little Cods, which they call Coque-Sigrues in Provence.

Raspberries, both Red and White, are propagated only by slips that sprout out of their stocks every year in the Spring time, and are sit to Replant the next Spring after.

Reponces, or Field Radishes, are multiplied only by Seed, and are a sort of little Radishes that are eaten in Sallats, and grow without any pains in the Fields.

Rocamboles, are a sort of mild Garlick, otherwise called Spanish Garlick, which is mul∣tiplied both by Cloves, and by Seed, which latter is about the bigness of ordinary Peas.

Rocket, being one of the Sallat Furnitures, is multiplied by Seed, which is extreme little, and of a Cinnamon, or dark Tan colour.

Rosemary is a little very odoriferous Shrub, that is propagated by Seed or Branches that have some portion of Root.

Rubarb is propagated only by Seed, which is pretty big, and triangular, the three An∣gles being as thin as very thin Paper, and there being a thickness in the middle where the Bud or Shoot is.

Rue is multiplied by Seed, whose shape resembles that of a Cocks Stone; it is of a black colour and rugged; but yet we usually propagate it rather by its Layers and Cuttings, than by its Seed.

S.

SAge is multiplied only by a kind of hooked slips that have a little Root.

Salsifie, or Goats-Beard, the common sort is multiplied only by Seed, which is al∣most like in all things to that of Scorzonera, except in its colour, which is a little greyer; it is of a very long oval figure, as if it were so many little Cods all over streaked, and as 'twere engraven in the spaces between the streaks, which are pretty sharp pointed to∣wards the ends.

Samphire or Sampire: See Pierce-pierre.

Saracens Wheat, or Turky Wheat, is a dark red Seed or Grain, about the bigness of an ordinary Pea, very smooth, round on one side, and a little flat on the other, where it is fastned to its Spike or Ear.

Savory is multiplied only by Seed, which is extraordinary small and round, slick, and grey.

Scorzonera, or Spanish Salsifie, is propagated only by Seed, which is small, longish and round withal, and of a white colour, and grows in a kind of Ball, mounted on the top of the Stalk of the Plant, having its point garnished with a kind of Beard like that of Pissabeds, or Dandelions.

Sellery: See Cellery.

Shalots or Eschalots, are multiplyed by Off-Sets or Kernels, which grow about the foot of its Plant, and are about the bigness of a Filberd Nut.

Smallage is multiplyed only by Seed which is reddish, and pretty big, of a roundish oval Figure, a little more full and rising on one side, than on the other, and is streaked from one end to the other.

Sorrel, as well the Lesser one which is the common sort, as the Greater one, are both multiplyed only by Seed, which is very small, slick, and of a Triangular Oval Figure, the ends of it being sharp and pointed, and being of an excellent dark Cinnamon Co∣lour.

Round Sorrel, is propagated only by Slips or Runners, so that out of one Tuft, we may easily make several plants of it.

French or Wood-Sorrel: See Alleluia.

Spare-Mint: See Mint.

Spinage is multiplyed only by Seed, which is pretty big, and horned, or Triangu∣lar on two Sides, having its corners very sharp pointed and prickly, and the other part which is opposite to those pointed Horns, is like a Purse, of a Grayish colour.

Straw-berry Plants, as well the white as the red, and those called Caprons, are propaga∣ted only by Runners, which are produced by a kind of Threads or Strings, which springing out of the body of the Plant, and creeping along upon the Earth, easily e∣nough take Root, at certain Joynts or Knots about a foot distance one from the other, which knots coming to take Root, make new Plants, that in two or three Months time, are fit to be transplanted, and they are placed three or four of them together, to make what we call a Tuft.

Succory: See Endive.

Suckers of Artichokes: See Artichokes.

Sharp Trefoil: See Alleluia.

T.

TIme is multiplyed by Seed, which is very small, and sometimes we separate those Plants or Stems of it that produce several rooted Slips or Suckers, to replant them in Borders, for Time is seldom planted otherwise.

Tripe Madam is propagated both by Seed, and Cuttings or Slips, every Stem or Stock of it producing several Arms, which being separated and replanted, easily take Root again. The Seed of it is Gray, and Longish, and almost of the shape of Parsly Seed; there grows a great deal of it upon every Seed Stalk, which runs up one above another, like those of Seed-Carrots, Parsnips, &c. there are seven or eight of them in a sort of little o∣pen Cup, where they grow ripe after the falling of a yellow Flower, inclining to an Olive colour.

Turkey Wheat: See Saracens Wheat.

Sharp Trefoil: See Alleluia.

Turneps are multiplyed only by Seed, which is almost like that of Cabbage.

V.

VInes of what sort soever they be, whether White, Red, or Black Muskat Chassela's, Bourdelais, Corinthian, or Long Muscat, called otherwise Passe-Musquée, &c. are mul∣tiplyed by Layers, by hooked or bent Slips, and especially Couched; and lastly, by Graft∣ing Cleft-wise.

Violet Plants, as well of the Double as Single sort, and of what colour soever they be, though they produce Seed in little reddish Shells or Husks, yet are multiplyed only by the Slips they produce, each Plant or Stock of them growing insensibly into a great Tuft, which is divided into several little ones, which being replanted, grow in time big enough to be likewise divided into others.

W.

Wheat: See Saracens and Turkey Wheat.

Worm-wood, is multiplyed by Seed, which is of a pretty odd Figure, being a little bent inward in its smallest part, and a little open on the other end, which is bigger and rounder, and upon which there is a little black spot. Its colour is yellowish at the bigger end, and its sharper end inclines a little to black. Its Seed is seldom used, because it is very difficult to fan or sift, being very light, and therefore when we have need of propagating Worm-wood, we make use rather of its Cuttings and Layers, that are a lit∣tle rooted.

Wood-Sorrel: See Alleluia.

CHAP. III.

Shews what a good Kitchen-Garden may yield us every Month in the Year, and how a Gard'ner may and ought to employ himself there in every one of those Months.

THe Experience of hot Countries sufficiently convinces us, that the Earth taken in ge∣neral, is capable at all Seasons, to produce all manner of things, without any extraor∣dinary assistance of Art, because in those parts, there is no Season in the Year, in which she is not teeming, but by a contrary experience we find, that our Climate is too cold to afford us any such fertility; and yet because there are few days, in which a Man has not oc∣casion to make up a part of his nourishment and subsistance with something of the growth of his Garden; It concerns the industrious Gard'ners so to manage it, that it may not only produce enough amply to suffice for our daily use, during the five or six Months in which the Earth acts at her Ease, by the favour of the Sun's Neighbourhood, but also furnish us at the same time, a sufficient Provision for those five or six Months in which she is suspended from her ordinary functions.

Now among the Barren and less happy Months that commonly make the greatest op∣position to our Culture, are reckoned the last fifteen days of November, all December, and January, and the first fifteen days of February; the violence of the Frosts which in that Season use to harden and cool the Earth, and the abundance of Snow with which it is then wont to be covered, putting such a perfect stop to all Vegetative Operations, that the most fertile Soil becomes at that time altogether like that which never was blessed with that accomplishment.

But notwithstanding all those hindrances, there is still work enough to be done in Win∣ter, to keep us from being quite idle, and a great deal of Assistance too to be drawn from our Gardens, even in that Season, that we may not labour under too great a scar∣city of their Productions; and therefore I have determined to give you a particular ac∣count of every one of those works, and of every one of those Commodities which our Gardens will afford us, during every one of the twelve Months of the Year, and shall begin with that which, because it passes for the first, and opens and begins the Year, seems to me best to deserve the preference.

Works which may be done in a Kitchen-Garden, in the Month of January.

TO Prune all sorts of Trees, whether Dwarfs or Wall-Trees, to prepare some of them to plant as soon as ever the Ground shall be open after the hard Frosts, and the melting of the Snow that covered it.

To make Trenches, to plant Trees, to dig Molds to amend them; to dig round the Feet, either of Trees over Luxuriant, to cut off their thick Roots, and by that means to make them fructifie, or of such as are infirm, to trim and redress them.

To make Hot Beds, to sow forward Cowcumbers, and Sallets in, whether in Rows or little Furrows, or under Bells. To make Screens to cover those Seeds in case of need: The first hot Beds for Cowcumbers, as also for Musk-melons, are usually made at the very beginning of the Month, and at the same time we may make hot Beds for Mushrooms.

To heat or force Asparagus.

To heat Beds of Sorrel, Patience, Borage, &c.

To raise on hot Beds, Jacinths, Narcissus's of Constantinople, and some Tulips, &c.

To make Trails, Trellisces, or Frames for Wall-trees.

To pull down the hot Beds of the last Year, and to take the rotten Dung that com∣posed them, and lay it upon those Grounds we would amend, or Meliorate.

To lay apart some Molds to have them at Hand, to prepare for the hot Beds, and we may also clear and cleanse the places of the Hot beds, in order to the making of new ones.

To tie up with Bands of Straw, the tops of the Leaves of Long Lettuce, which have not Cabbaged, to make them Cabbage, or at least to whiten them, when they are grown big enough for it.

To raise some Strawberries upon hot Beds, to have some ripe in the Months of April and May.

To dung Figg-trees, in order to have early Figs.

And in fine, to advance the doing by little and little, all that the Spring Season is wont to do with an extraordinary Expedition.

To plant Trees in Baskets, to Pot, and Case Figg-trees, to lay Vine and Fig-tree Bran∣ches, to clear your Trees of Moss, if troubled with it, which is done best in rainy wea∣ther, with the back of a Knife, or some such instrument.

But it would be to little Purpose to know what to do, without being informed how to do it, and therefore for your instruction in pruning, I referr you to my fourth Book, which treating throughly of that Subject, may excuse me from speaking any more of it here.

And as to the way of making hot Beds, you must first know, they are to be made only with Long Horse-Dung, or Mule-Dung, which is to be either all New, or mixed with a third part at most of Old, provided it be dry, and not rotten, for that which is rotten, is not at all proper for making hot Beds, no more than the Dung of Oxen, Cows, Hogs, &c. as well, because it has little or no heat, as because ordinarily those kinds of rotten Dung are accompanied with an unpleasing smell that infects the Plants raised upon such Beds, and gives them an ugly Taste.

By New Long Dung, is to be understood, that which is taken from under the Horses, and has served them for Litter but one Night or two at most.

By Long old Dung, is meant that which has been piled up ever since it was new, in a dry place where it has lain all Summer, to be ready to be used, either to make Coverings for Fig-trees, Artichoaks, Endive, &c. against the Winter Cold, or to make hot Beds after the ordinary manner, which is thus performed.

After we have mark'd and proportioned out the place where the Bed is to be, and mark'd out likewise with a Cord, or with Stakes, of what breadth it must be, there must be brought a Rank of Baskets full of Long Dung, one at the tail of the other, begin∣ning the Rank or Row where the Bed is to end; which done, the Gard'ner begins to work where the Rank of Baskets ends, that so the Dung not being intangled with any thing lying upon it, may more easily and handsomly be wrought into the Bed. Then the Gard'ner takes up this Dung with a Fork, and if he be any thing handy, places it so neatly and tightly in laying every layer of his Bed, that all the straw ends of the Dung, are turned inwards, and what remains, serves to make a kind of back or fence on the out-side. The first layer being thus compleated exactly to the breadth that is marked out, which is commonly of about four foot, and to such a length as is thought fit, the Gard'∣ner proceeds to lay the second, third, &c. beating them with the back of his Fork, or else treading them with his Feet, to see if there be any defect, because the Bed must be equally stuft every where, so that no one part may be less strong of Dung than another, which being done, he continues it to the designed length, proportioning it still by Lay∣ers, till the Bed reach the length, breadth, and heighth it should have, which heighth is of between two and three foot when 'tis first made, and sinks a full foot lower when it is setled.

Now as to the intention of these Hot Beds, some of them are designed for the raising, or forwarding of some plants which our Climate is not capable naturally of producing in the naked Ground, as for example, for the raising of Radishes, little Sallets, Straw-berries, Cucumbers, Musk-Melons, &c. and the better to compass those ends, we make Hot Beds during the Months of November, December, January, February, March and April. These Beds must be covered over with a certain quantity of small fine mold, as we shall afterward Direct, and must have heat enough to communicate to that mold, and to the plants that are nourished by it; And therefore those Hot Beds that are an Inventi∣on of Gard'ners against the Cold, which is the cruel Enemy of Vegetation, must be well made.

In the second place, there are other Beds which are to serve for Mushrooms, in all the seasons of the Year, and such may be made every Month, though they act not till about three Months after they are made; and that is, when all their great heat being quite spent, they are grown mouldy within; this sort of Beds are made in a new and sandy Ground, in which is first made a Trench of about six Inches deep, then we cover them with a layer of about two or three Inches thick of the same Earth; they are raised in the form of an Asses back, and over the covering of Earth, we lay another of five or six In∣ches thick of Long Dry Dung, which serves in Winter, to shelter the Mushrooms from the Frost, which destroys them: and in Summer, from the great heat that broils them, and likewise to prevent the mischievous effects of the same excessive heat, we further take care gently to water these Mushroom Beds twice or thrice a week.

As for the breadth of Hot Beds, it should be in all sorts of them, of about four foot, and their heighth must be of between two and three when they are first made, because they sink afterwards a full foot, when once the great heat of the Bed is past; As for the length that is to be regulated by the quantity of Dung we have to make them with, so that according to that, we make them of several lengths; But in heighth and breadth, all Beds should be as near as may be, alike proportioned.

The difference which there is in other respects, between Hot Beds that are to produce plants by their heat, and those which are designed for Mushrooms, consists first in that those of the first sort need not be sunk down within the Earth like the others, which are usually sunk about half a foot, unless they be designed for such Beds as we call Deaf Beds, that is to say, Beds sunk so over Head and Ears into the Earth, that when filled up, they exceed not the superficies of the rest of the Ground about them, in height. In the second place, this difference consists, in that those of the first sort must be flat and even above, whereas these others must be raised in form of an Asses Back.

Lastly, it consists in that those of the first sort must be Loaden with a pretty good quantity of very small mold, as soon as they are made, whereas there must be but a very little mold laid upon the others; That mold by its weight, makes the Beds heat, and settle the sooner. We lay upon them sometimes more, and sometimes less mold; as for Example, we throw on to the quantity of six or seven Inches thick, if it be to sow ordinary plants in, as Sallets, or Musk Melons, or Cucumbers, or to plant Cabbage Lettuce, and Asparagus to be advanced by heat; and to the depth of a foot, if we be to sow Ra∣dishes, and to replant Sorrel, and Musk Melons, and pots of Straw-berries, &c.

But before we sow or replant any thing whatsoever upon any new made Hot Beds, the first precaution we must observe, is, to stay six or seven days, and sometimes ten or twelve, to give the Bed time first to heat, and afterwards to give time to that heat which is very violent, to abate considerably; This abatement appears when the whole Bed is sunk, and when thrusting down our hand into the mold, we perceive in it but a moderate heat. Then it is we are to begin handsomly to shape out and adjust the mold, for which purpose the Gard'ner, makes use of a board of a foot broad, which he places upon the sides of the Bed about two Inches from the Edge, and joining close to the mold, and having thus placed it, he endeavours to keep it firm and tight, as well with his left hand and Knee, as with the strength of his whole Body, and then with his right hand, he begins at one end, to press down the mold against the board, so hard, till he bring it to so firm a consistence, that how light and loose soever it were before of its own Nature, yet it may be able to keep up it self alone, when the board is taken away, as well as if it were a solid body. When the mold is thus adjusted to the whole length of the board, then he removes the board to another place, and so continues till he has performed the same operation on all sides of the Bed. And if the board be a little longer, and consequently a little more unwieldy than ordinary, then there must two or three persons join together to work in the same manner, and at the same time, to adjust this mold; or if the Gard'ner be all alone, he must keep the board tight with some Pins, fastned in the sides of the Dung Bed already adjusted; And when the thing is done, the mold should have at least a full half foot extent less on every side, than the lower part of the Bed, and in its oblong square figure, appear as even as if it were a Bed formed on the plain Ground; After which, the Beds are to be employed for those occasions that first obliged us to make them. All things in them would either perish, or be much endamaged, if we sowed or planted in them sooner, or if we should delay our doing it any longer. The heat of the Bed, may last in a condition to be able to perform well its effects for about ten or twelve days after it is sown or planted; but when that time is past, if we perceive the Bed to be too much cooled, we must renew the heat with some good new long dung, or fresh warm litter applied round about it, both to recruit the heat, and to maintain it afterwards in that good tem∣per in which it should be, and in which it was before, when we begun to sow and plant there; so that the plants instead of wasting away or perishing there, may increase and thrive visibly as they should do. It is not so very needful to tell you, that when a man has two Beds next one another, one recruiting of heat will serve for them both, because there's no body but knows it, but it is good to know, that this recruiting of heat between two Beds, should not be by a great deal so strong as when there is but one; for the ordinary Interval or space left between two Beds for the path, being about the breadth of one full foot, a little Dung will suffice to fill it up, and that new heat is reciprocally maintained in its vigour by the Neighbour-hood of the two Beds, that border on each side upon it; But when there is but one Bed, our addition of Dung for a new heat, must be at least two foot broad, all along the whole length of the Bed, and to its full height, and many times it must be higher than that.

When we are to renew the heat, it is not always necessary to make an application of new Dung, it being many times sufficient to stir that the bottom upwards, which we last applied, and which needs it, provided it be not too much rotted, which stirring of it is enough to renew the heat for eight or ten days longer; and there is no need of applying new Dung but when by the rotting of all the last, or of at least a good part of it, we find it to be no longer fit to yield that heat which is necessary for those plants that are raised on Hot Beds.

If they be Asparagus, or Straw-berries which we have taken out of their Cold Beds, and replanted in Hot ones, and there be any apprehension of the Cold, we must care∣fully cover them with Glass Bells, or Chasses or Glased Frames; and to hinder the Frost from penetrating even them, and spoiling what is underneath them, we use besides to cover them with Screens of dry Long Dung, or Litter, or Straw, which we put over the Glass Bells or Glased Frames, and plants never fail to produce upon Beds thus ac∣commodated and maintained in a due heat, by such recruitings Renewed from time to time.

This manner of proceeding is good and commodious enough for Sorrel; because being animated by the moderate heat of the Hot Bed, it springs up there for some fifteen days time, just as that do's that grows in the naked Ground in the Month of May, and afterwards dies; But it is not so good for Asparagus, because they when they are pull'd

up and Replanted, never produce such fine Shoots, as when they are Dunged and heat on the naked Earth.

It follows then, that the best method for Asparagus, and even for Sorrel too, is to take up for about two foot deep, all the Earth in the paths between two cold Beds, (which paths should be a full foot broad) and fill them up afterwards with Long Warm Dung, to heat the neighbouring Earth, and if it be for Asparagus, to cover the whole Cold Bed with the same Dung, to help to warm the Earth; And when the Asparagus begin to sprout, we put Bells upon each plant, or else cover the whole Bed with Glased Frames; after which, the heat of these paths must be renewed by stirring them the bottom upwards, or by renewing from time to time an application of fresh Dung, covering besides the Bells or Glass Frames with dry long Dung, or Screens of Straw, or such like matter, for the reasons above expressed, when we were treating of Asparagus and Sorrel in Hot Beds. The Asparagus plants being thus warmed, and feeling under those Bells or Glass Frames an Air as comfortable as in the Months of April or May, they produce shoots that are Red at first comming up, but which afterward turn green and long, like those that Nature it self produces in warm and temperate seasons. The only inconvenience of these Artificial heatings is, that because they must be very violent to penetrate a Cold Earth, they dry up and spoil those plants, so that such Asparagus, instead of continuing for fif∣teen years together, to bear well as otherwise they do, never spring kindly afterward, and though they be let alone two or three years after a first heating, yet at most, are able to endure but one more.

The Straw-berries which are forced on Hot Beds begin to put out their shoots in Janua∣ry, and Flower in February and March, and yield their Fruit in April and May. The best method of raising them, is to pot them in September, in a tolerable good and light Earth, and afterwards to plant them in Hot Beds in December; they may also be planted in Hot Beds without potting at all, in the Month of March; their runners and some of their leaves must be taken off, if they have too many; the Earth in their Pots must be kept always loose and a little moist, and if there happen any excessive heats in some days of March and April, they must have a little Air given them towards the North, and they must be covered a Nights.

To have little Sallets of Lettuce to cut, mixed with Chervil, Cresses, &c. with the furnitures of Mint, Taragon, &c. and to have Radishes, &c. we make such Hot Beds as I have directed, and we steep in water about twenty four hours, a little bagg of Lettuce Seed, after which time, we take it out, and hang it in a chimny corner, or in some other place where the Frost can't reach it, and the Seed so wetted, drains it self from the water, and heats to such a measure, that it sprouts, and then after we have made upon our Hot Beds some little furrows of about two Inches deep, and about as broad, with a little stick that we draw hard over the mold, we sow that sprou∣ted Seed in those furrows, so thick that it covers all the bottom of the furrows; There must be a * 1.35 French Bushel to sow a Bed of fourteen Toises or Fathoms long, and of four foot broad, and when 'tis sown, we cover it with a little mold cast upon it lightly with the hand; and each cast of the hand dextrously performed, should cover a furrow as much as it needs, which done, we put some Bells or long Rice Straw over them to hinder the Birds from Eating them, and the heat from evapourating, or the Frost by chilling it, from destroying the Seed, we take away the Straw when at the end of five or six days, the Seed begins to spring well, and at length, ten or twelve days after it is commonly high enough to be cut with a Knife, and eaten in Sallets, that is to be understood, if the Ice and Snow, and even the heat of the Bed be not too excessive. We take the same course with Chervil, and Cresses, save only that they must be sown without steeping their Seeds.

As for Mint, Taragon, Cives, and other Furnitures of Sallets, they are planted on the Hot Bed in the same manner as on the Cold one.

As for Radishes, we seldom steep them to make them sprout, the skins of their Seeds being so tender, that in less than a days time, they would be melted all to a Pap.

I have directed how to sow Roaishes, in the Works of November, where we treat of preparing the provisions we would have from our Gardens in January, February, and March.

It is convenient to sow in the beginning of this Month, or even in November, and December, a Hot Bed of Parsley to supply us with fresh, in the Spring time to serve us till that we should sow in the naked Earth, at the end of February, be grown to its per∣fection.

To lay the branches or slips of Vines, Fig-Trees, Goose-berry and Curran Bushes, to take Root, we need only Couch, or lay down their branches into the Earth and cover them in the middle with Earth, to the height of five or six Inches, which are to re∣main in that condition, till the month of November following, when having taken Root, we take them up, that is, separate them from the Tree, and plant them where we have occasion for them.

To Circumpose Trees by planting them in Baskets, Pots, and Boxes, or Cases, we first fill half way with Earth those Baskets, Pots, or Boxes, and then having pruned and trim'd the Trees as I have directed in the Treatise of Plantations, we Plant them, plunging the Baskets and Pots quite into the Earth, but leaving the Boxes or Cases above Ground:

The way of potting the Bulbous Roots of Tubereuses, Juncquills, Narcissus's of Con∣stantinople, Jacynths, &c. is first to put them into Pots, and then to plunge those Pots into Hot Beds, covering the Beds carefully with Glass Frames, Bells, Straw Screens, &c.

To warm or force Fig-Trees, we must have some in Boxes or Cases, and make for them in January, a Deaf Hot Bed (being a Hot Bed made in a hollow dug into the Earth, and raised only even with its surface) and place the Boxes upon it. Then we must have some square Glass Frames about six or seven foot high, which must be fitted purposely to be applied against a Wall exposed to a Southern Aspect: And so the Dung in the Hot Bed fermenting into a heat, warms the Earth in the Box, and by consequence, makes the Fig-Tree sprout; That Bed is to be put into a new ferment when there is occasion, and great care must be taken to cover those Glass Frames close, that no Cold may get within them.

During the whole Month of January we continue to sow upon Hot Beds, under Bells, Lettuces to be Replanted again as I have directed in the Works of December; as also to Replant them under Bells, as well to serve for the Nursery, as in the places they are designed for, and as to the Seeds when sown, we may let alone covering them with mold, if we please, it being enough to pat with the flat of our hands upon the Bed, to press the mold close about them; we use the same method with Purslain sown under Bells, for we can hardly throw so little mold upon those Seeds to cover them, but we shall through too much.

To have some fine little Lettuces for Salleting, we must sow under Bells some of the Bright curled sort, and sow it thin, and stay till it has shot forth two leaves before we gather it. The Seeds of these Lettuces must be sown thin, that the Plants may grow tall, and if we see them come up too thick, we must thin them; the choisest sorts of Lettuce for the Spring season, are the Curled Fair or Bright Lettuce, and after that, the Royal Lettuce, the Short Lnttuce, and above all, the Shell Lettuce, &c. We also sow under Bells, to Replant again, Borage, Bugloss, and Arach, or Orage.

The right method of making Trenches, and diging of molds, is not as was hereto∣fore practised, first, to throw out of those Trenches all the Earth, and then to throw it in again; for that was unprofitably to handle the same Earth twice, and so to lose time, and spend money to no purpose.

The best way to do it then, is to make at first a Gage full as broad as the Trench and of the length of a Toise or Fathom, and to throw up upon the bordering Alley, all the Earth that is taken out of that Gage, which will be all the Earth we shall need handle twice, because at the end of the Trench there will remain one Gage, empty, which must be filled up with the Earth that came out of the first, when the first Gage is made, we must fill it up with the Earth that is to be dug up to make the next, throwing that part of it into the bottom which was at the Superficies, and making a new Superficies of that which was at the bottom; This kind of moving the Ground, makes a natural Slope before the Workman, and in case the Soil must be Dunged, we must have Dung ready placed all along the side of the Trench, and whilst two or three men are at Work in turning up the Earth, and throw∣ing it before them, there must be one at the side of the Trench, to scatter Dung upon that Slope by which means the mold is well mixed, and not at all tram∣pled on, as it is by common Gard'ners, that first lay a layer of Dung, and then a layer of Earth, and afterwards dig the whole over again, continuing this way of laying of layers of Dung and mold, and to turn up one over another, till their Trench be quite filled up as 'tis to remain.

Works to be done in February.

IN this Month, we continue the same works we were doing in the last, if we have had the foresight and convenience to begin them then, or else at least we set upon beginning them now in earnest.

Therefore we set to manuring the Ground if the Frost permits us, and about the end of the Month, or rather to wards Mid-March, or later, that is towards Mid-April, we sow in the naked Ground those things that are long a rearing; as for Example, all sorts of Roots, viz. Carrots, Parsnips, Chervils or Skirrets, Beet-Raves, or Red-Beet-Roots, Scorzo∣neres, and above all, Parsly-Roots.

We sow now also Onions, Leeks, Ciboules, Sorrel, Hasting Peas, Garden or Marsh-Beans, Wild Endive, or Succory, and Burnet.

If we have any Shell-Lettuces that were sown in Autumn last, in some well sheltered place, we now replant them on Hot Beds under Bells, to make them Cabbage betimes. And particularly we take care to replant on them some of the Curld Bright Lettuces, which we sowed last Month, because they turn to better account than the others.

We begin at the latter end of the Month, to sow a little green Purslain under Bells, the Red, or Golden sort being too delicate and tender to be sown before March.

We replant Cowcumbers and Musk-melons, if we have any big enough, and that upon a Hot Bed, in some place well sheltered, either by Walls, Straw or Reed Hedges, or some other Invention to keep off the Wind.

We also sow towards the end of the Month, our Annual Flowers, in order to replant them again at the latter end of April, and the beginning of May.

We also sow our first Cabbages, if as we should, we have not a provision of some in a Nursery under some good shelter, which we should have sown at the beginning of Au∣gust, and replanted in October in the Nursery; we replant these latter in the places they are designed for, taking care not to replant any that begins to run to Seed.

We begin to Graft all sorts of Trees in the Cleft, and we prune and plant them; we plant also Vines, and about Mid-February, if the weather be any thing fair, is the pro∣per time to begin all sorts of Works.

We only make now the Hot Beds which we have occasion to make use of for Radishes, little Sallets, and to raise those things which we are to replant again in the Cold Beds.

We take care to maintain the necessary heat about our Asparagus, and to gather those that are good.

As also to maintain the Heat in the hot Strawberry Beds.

We unnail our Wall-trees in order to prune them the more commodiously, and then nail them up anew.

At what time soever Radishes are gathered, they must be tied up in Bunches, and put to steep in Water, or else they will wither, and retain too biting a taste.

We also continue to plant Trees when the Weather and the Soil will permit us.

Works to be done in March.

AT the beginning of this Month, it appears who are the Gard'ners that have been idle, by their not furnishing us with any thing which the diligent and skilful ones supply us with, and by their having neglected to sow their Grounds which lie for the most part as yet unsown, though the weather has been favourable for it. There is now no more time to be lost in delaying the sowing of the first Seeds that are to be sown in the naked Earth, and of which we have spoken in the Works to be done about the end of February. Good Gard'ners ought to cover with Mold, the Cold Beds which they have sown with their designed Seeds, for fear the waterings and great Rains should beat down the Earth too much, and render its Superficies too hard for the Seeds to pierce and shoot through; they should also bank up their cold Beds tightly with a rake, that so the Rain water, or that of their waterings may keep in them, and not run out of them into the Paths; and in fine, if they have never so little of the Spirit of Neatness in them, they will not fail to take away all the Stones the Rake meets with in its way.

The way to cover well all these Seeds with Earth, is to harrow or rake, that is, to move it extreamly to and fro, which is commonly done with an Iron Rake.

About Mid-March at furthest, we make the hot Beds in which we are to replant the earliest Musk melons.

We sow in the naked Earth, in some well sheltered place, all those things which we are to plant again in the like; as for Example, both our Spring Lettuce, and that which we are to replant again at the latter end of April, and at the beginning of May, viz. the Curl'd Bright Lettuce, and the Royal, and Bellegarde Lettuce, the Perpignan Lettuce which is greenish, the Alfange, the Chicons, and the Green, Red and Bright Genua Lettuces are near two Months on the Ground, before they grow big enough to be replanted. And we also sow Cabbages for the latter Season, and Collyflowers to plant them in their proper pla∣ces, about the end of April and beginning of May; and if they come up too thick, we take out some, and replant them in a Nursery, to make them grow bigger, &c.

We sow Radishes in the naked Earth, among all the other Seeds we are sowing, because they do no harm there, but are fit to be gathered at the beginning of May, before either the Sorrel, Chervil, Parsly, Ciboule, &c. be grown big enough to suffer any incommodity by them.

We sow Arrach, or Orage, in the naked Earth.

About Mid-March, we sow Citruls or Pompions upon hot Beds, to replant in the begin∣ning of May.

Commonly there is nothing fit to be replanted in Cold Beds at their coming out of the hot ones, till the end of April, or the beginning of May, unless it be Lettuce, and the Earth must be a little warmed before we remove any thing into it out of a Hot Bed, in which the Plants were still cherished with some remaining heat, or else they will all come to nothing there.

We make an end of pruning and planting during the course of this Month, of all Garden-Trees, and also of Gooseberry, Curran, and Raspberry shrubs, &c. It is very conve∣nient to delay the pruning of vigorous Trees till they begin to sprout, as well to let them spend their first Strength, as to prevent the losing any of their Fruit Buds which we cannot till then discern, and which come to their perfection in the Spring-Season.

We take up at the beginning of the Month, with Mold and all, the plantation of Strawberrys, which we had in the Nursery, to form Cold Beds and Squares of them to re∣main and to refurnish those where there want any.

We sow some seed of piercepier or Garden Sampire in some tub of Earth, or in the na∣ked Ground some sheltered place; it requires commonly two Months to come up, and when it is big enough, we replant it in the Month of May, and sometimes we let it grow till the next year, in order to replant it at the foot of some Wall.

We sow a third time a few more Peas, for we should be sure to sow some of them e∣very Month of the Year, and these now sown must be of the great square sort.

We now have some Mushrooms either upon some Hot Beds made purposely for them, or in some other places well dunged.

At the very beginning of the Month, we sow some little quantity of Endive very thin, to have some of it whited about Mid-summer.

When we know that the Paths between hot Beds, or Asparagus Banks, have been stuf∣fed with very long Dung, so that there seems not to be heat enough in them, and if it be very hot weather, it is convenient to water them reasonably well, that so the Straw in them being wetted, may the more easily ferment into a heat.

Towards the end of the Month, or at the beginning of April, we sow a little Cellery in the naked Earth, to have some late in the Months of August and September. Cellery is commonly almost a Month a coming up; and we sow a little of it at the same time on a Hot Bed, in order to have some of it early.

We digg about the Roots of Fruit-Trees, that we may have finisht that work before they blossom; the Frost being more dangerous in Soils newly moved and turned up than in others.

We begin now to uncover a little our Artichokes, but seldom begin to manure them till the full Moon of March be past, which is generally very dangerous both to them and to the Figg-trees, which last must not yet be quite uncover'd, it being enough to do it half way, at the same time we take off all their dead Wood and Branches, whether kil∣led by the Frost, or by any other means.

About the middle of March or before, if the weather be mild, we begin to sow some Red or Golden Purslain upon hot beds under Bells, and continue still to sow of the Green sort.

We replant in their sixt places common Cabbages and Milan Cabbages, which we should take care to have ready in our Nursery, from the beginning of November last past, in some well sheltered place, but we replant none of those that begin to mount, that is, to run up their stalks, as if they were going to Seed.

We sow upon some end of a cold bed in plain Earth, some Asparagus Seed for a Nursery, to furnish us with a Provision of it, which is sown like other Seed.

We plant the Asparagus Squares we have occasion for, to which purpose we make choice of a fine Plantation of one years growth, or else of one of two.

The way to plant Asparagus is, to place two or three Plants of them together, and neatly to spread out their Roots without cutting them but very little, unless we please, and then to cover them with a layer of Earth of two or three Inches thick, to plant these Tufts Checquer-wise, at a foot and a half's distance one from the other.

This Cold Bed should generally be full four Foot broad, that there may be room enough for three ranks of them. But if we design to force any of them by heat in Winter, we must make the Cold Beds but three Foot broad, and we must observe, if the Ground be dry, to lay the Bed hollow within the Earth, with a good Spade, and by that means raise the Paths Arch-wise, making use of the Soil that comes out of it to cover again by lit∣tle and little, and year by year, the Plantation as it grows stronger, and rises out of the Ground. But if it be in a moist Ground, and very cool, it is better not to make the Bed so low nor hollow, but on the contrary to keep it a little higher than the paths, that the Winter waters may descend out of it into them, and may not rot the Plants, to which nothing is more dangerous than too much wet.

Asparagus both old and young must be carefully howed, or cleared of Weeds, and in this Month of March, before they begin to appear above Ground, we must afford them a little manuring, by turning up the Earth to the depth of half a foot about them, to give the young Asparagus the more Liberty to shoot up.

The Radishes that are sown on hot Beds with a cast of the Hand, are generally not so fair nor so good as those sowed in holes, and are more apt to grow hollow and strin∣gy than they.

We still continue to make some Hot Beds for Radishes, that we may be still supplied with them, till the beginning of May, when those sown in plain Ground come in. All the o∣ther Months in the Year will produce us enough of them, if we will take the pains to sow some from time to time, and be careful liberally to water them.

At the beginning of the Month it will be time to replant what we have a mind should run to Seed, viz. Leeks and Onions, and especially the white sort, Cloves of Gar∣lick Cloves and Seeds of Shalots, white Cabbage, Pancaliers Cabbage, &c. Now likewise we are to tie up such Lettuces as should Cabbage, and yet do not, which tying makes them in a manner Cabbage by force.

We sow the Seed of Pannacht or striped Gilliflowers upon Hot Beds, before the full Moon, to replant them in May; we also sow the Annual Flowers upon hot Beds, to replant at the latter end of May, viz. Passe velours, or Velvet Flowers, called also Flower gentles, and A∣maranthus, Indian Ocellus or French Marygolds, Indian Roses, the Belles de Nuit.

We make an end of Planting Trees both in their fixed places, and in Baskets.

We bestow the first manuring upon all sorts of Gardens, as well to render them agreea∣ble to the sight, during the Easter Holy-Days, as to dispose the Ground for all sorts of Plants and Seeds.

We set in the Ground, Almonds that have sprouted breaking off the sprout before we plant them.

We sow in the Flower Plots, or Parterres, some Seeds of Poppy, and of Larks Heels, which will flower after them that were sown in September.

We plant Oculus Christi.

Towards the twentieth day of this Month, we sow some Capucin Capers, or Nasturces, to Replant them again a Month after in some good Exposition, or at the foot of some Tree.

Works to be done in April.

THere is no Month in the year wherein there is more work to be done in Gardens than in this, for now the Earth begins to be very fit, not only to be manured, but to receive whatsoever we have a mind to plant or sow in it, as Lettuce, Leeks, Cabbage,

Borage, Bugloss. Artichokes, Tarragon, Mint, Violets, &c. Before the Month of April, it is as yet too cold, and after April, it begins to be too dry.

We furnish those places where any new planted Trees give but little marks of their prospering, whether it be by Gum, in stone Fruit, or by pitiful small shoots in all man∣ner of Fruit-Trees. But for this important Reparation, we must have brought up ready to our hands, some Trees in Baskets, which an understanding curious Person will never fail to have made provision of, who will have the pleasure to plant some of them near those that thrive not so well as they should do, when he is not well assured they will absolutely die; for when we are sure of that, we pluck them up quite, to make room for them we should substitute in their place, for which purpose, we make choice of close and rainy weather.

We perform now our second pruning of the Branches of Peach-Trees, I mean only the Fruit Branches, in order to cut them off short to that part just above where there is Fruit Knit; and if any of those Peach-Trees, have produced any very thick shoots upon high Branches, as sometimes it happens after the full Moon of March, we pinch them to make them multiply into Fruit Branches, and to keep them low, when there is occa∣sion, that they may not run up too high before their time.

Peas sown in a good Exposition, at the very middle of October, should begin towards the middle of April, to put forth at least their first Blossoms, and consequently must be pinch'd; the Blossom springs out commonly in Peas, from the middle of the fifth or sixth Leaf, from which same place, there springs an Arm or Branch that grows exceed∣ing long, and produces at each Leaf, a couple of Blossoms like the first, and there∣fore the more to fortify the first, we cut off that new Arm or shoot, just above the second flower.

We continue to trim Musk Melons and Cucumbers, to new heat our Hot Beds, and make new ones, and to sow Cucumbers, that we may have some to replant that may ripen about the end of Summer, and beginning of Autumn.

We make some hot Mushroom Beds in new Ground, the manner of doing which, I have already described elsewhere.

'Tis the Moon of this Month, that we vulgarly call the Ruddy Moon, it being very subject to be windy, cold and dry, and to be fatal thereby to many new planted Trees, unless great care be taken to water them about the Foot, once a Week; For which purpose we make a round hollow circle or small Trench, round about their foot just over the part where the Extremities of their roots are, and then pour into the said Trench or Circle, a pitcher full of water if the Tree be little, or two or three, if it be bigger, and when the water is soak'd in, we fill up the Circle again, if we think good, with Earth, or else we cover it with some dry Dung, or Weeds newly pluck'd up, that we may the better repeat our watering once a Week during the extream dry Wea∣ther.

We weed up all the ill weeds that grow among good Seed, we take the same course with Straw-berries, Peas, and replanted Lettuce, and we howe all about them, the better to loosen the Earth, and open a passage for the first rain that shall fall.

About the middle of April, we begin to sow a little White Endive, in plain Ground, to whiten it in the same place; and provided it be thin sown, no Seed comes so easily up as this sort of Endive.

At the middle of April we also sow in their places, the first Spanish Cardons, and the second at the beginning of May; the first are commonly a Month in coming up, and the others about 15 days.

We also still sow in this Month, some Sorrel, if we be not sufficiently provided with it before; and we sow it either in Cold Beds, in little furrows, which is handsomest, or else scatteringly on the plain Ground, which is most common; or else upon the sides of Squares, to serve for an edging: we likewise replant in rows or furrows, that which we remove from other places, and is but about a year old, and especially of that of the large sort, whether our necessities have obliged us to break up some Bed of it, and that we be not minded to lose it, or whether we do it designedly.

We use the same method with Fennel and Anis, and if the high winds, and Cold hin∣der us not, we begin to give a little Air to our Musk Melons under Bells, and continue to give them a little more and more of it by degrees, till the end of May, when if we be in a good Climate, we take off the Bells quite. And we lift up each Bell with three little forks, otherwise the plant hurt by its sides, would dwindle and grow lank. And if after we have given it a little Air, the Cold continues still sharp enough to spoil the branches and Leaves of it that are sprouting, we take care to cover them with a little dry Litter.

At the end of the Month, we replant the Radishes we have removed from the Hot Beds where we first raised them, to make a good provision of Seed, choosing for that purpose, those that have the Reddest roots and the fewest leaves, and we need only make holes at a foot distance one from the other, in one or more Cold Beds, with a planting stick, and thrust in the Radishes into those holes, and then press down the Earth about them, and afterwards water them, if the rain do's not spare us that labour.

We choose apart of the fairest of the Cabbage-Lettuces, as well the Winter ones, which are the Shell, and Jerusalem Lettuces, as the Curles Bright Lettuce raised upon Hot Beds and under Bells, to plant them all together in some Cold Beds at a foot distance one from another, to let them run to Seed; which we also perform with a planting stick.

We plant edgings of Time, Sage, Marjoram, Hyssop, Lavender, Rue, Worm-wood, &c.

We replant Spring Lettuce, to Cabbage, which succeed one another in this order; the Curled Bright Lettuce is the first and best, as being the most tender and delicate, but it requires a mild and light Soil, or above all, a Hot Bed to plant it on, under Bells, from the Month of February, and during all the Month of March, and the beginning of April. A gross Soil agrees not with it, for instead of growing bigger there, it dwindles to nothing.

The Green Curled Lettuce, the George Lettuce, the Little Red Lettuce, and those called the Royal, the Bellegarde, and the Perpignan, follow next after. The Royal Lettuce is a very fair and thick Lettuce, which differs only from the Bellegarde in that it is a little less Curled. The Capucin, Short, Aubervilliers, and Austrian Lettuces succeed them, and run not so easily to Seed, as the preceeding ones. The Alfanges, Chicons, and Imperials which are all Lettuces to tie up, bring up the Rear; and the Genua Lettuces, both the Red, Bright, and Green, are the last Summer Lettuces; we must replant a good number of them at the very beginning of May, to have them good about Mid-summer, and all the rest of the Summer; of all Lettuces, this sort best endures the great heats, and is least disposed to run to Seed; for which reason to obtain Seed of it, we must have sown it upon Hot Beds from the very Month of February, that we may have some good plants of it to set again at the latter end of April.

The Royal Lettuce begins again to be fit to be replanted about the middle of September, to supply us, together with that of Genua, all the rest of Autumn. From the end of August, we begin to sow the Shell, or Winter Lettuce, that we may have some fit to re-plant in the Months of October, and November, for our Winter provision.

It is hard to make any Descriptions of these sorts of Lettuces, exact enough to distin∣guish them by, the difference between them consisting chiefly in having Leaves a little more or less green, or Curled; It is enough for the curious to know their names, to be enabled to ask for them of their Friends, or buy them of the Herb Merchants, we learn∣ing effectually to know them in the using. The two Crisped or Curled Sorts are so called, from the Curling of their Leaves, and the Red ones from their Colour. The Shell Lettuce has a very round Leaf which is very apt to shut up like a Shell.

There is an infinite Diversity of kinds of Lettuces, the worst is that which we call Cats Tongue, which is very sharp pointed, and never Cabbages. The Aubervilliers Lettuce grows so very hard that it is scarce fit for Sallets, but is better for pottage; but yet it is very subject to be bitter.

We must not fail every fifteen days, to sow a little Genua Lettuce, that we may always be provided with some fit to replant during all the whole Summer, till the middle of September; we must be careful and especially in rainy weather, to destroy both the Black and Shell Snails that come out of the Walls where they breed Young ones, because they do a great deal of mischief by gnawing the young Shoots of Trees, and new plan∣ted Lettuces and Cabbages. If the Ruddy or Dry Winds Reign, as they generally do this Month, we must carefully and plentifully water every thing in our Kitchen-Garden, except it be the Asparagus.

We continue to Trim Musk Melons, and Cucumbers, and plant new ones upon new Hot Beds, at the beginning of this Month, and we also sow some in the naked Ground, in little Dikes filled with mold, or compost, like to those I have already mentioned for Cardons.

We now likewise search the Woods for Young Straw-berry Plants, to make Nurseries of, in some part of our Garden, we plant tufts of two or three plants of them together at four or five Inches distance one from another, and if the Soil be dry, in a hollow Bed of two or three Inches deep, the better to retain and preserve the rain water, and that of our waterings, or else upon some Bed near some Northern Walls.

We also now dis-eye or separate the Off-Sets or Slips of our Artichokes, as soon as they are big enough, and we plant as many of them as we need, two or three of them in each hole, or Trench of about three or four Inches deep, and two full Foot and a half distance one from the other, each Bed should be four foot wide, and contain two rows of Artichoke Plants along its sides, and there must be a void space left in the middle, of three foot wide for the planting of Leek Chaids, or great whited Leeks, or else of Collyflowers, in imitation of the Market-Gard'ners, who are good Husbands of their Ground. The two Artichoke Plants which we set in each hole, must be placed a full foot and half distance one from the other.

We still continue planting Asparagus, and filling the places where there are any wan∣ting, if we can timely discover them, and we take care to water the new Plants.

We likewise still bind up those Lettuces that Cabbage not as they should.

We keep open the Windows of the green Houses, where our Orange Trees are in fair weather, to reaccustom them by little and little, to the wide Air; towards the end of the Month, we bring out our Jasmin and trim it; we also begin to prune our Vines at the first coming in of the Month, if we have neglected to do it about the middle of March last; and we prune the Wall Vines sooner than those in the open Fields.

We have already in the month of March, set into the Earth, those Almonds which sprouted early, and in this Month we set those which having not sprouted at the same time with the others, had been put up back again into Mold, Earth, or Sand.

In the beginning of this Month, Gardens should be almost in their Perfection, as well for their general neatness, and pleasing Prospect, as being all over covered either with the green Seedlings of all sorts which have been sown, or with Plants which have been set, excepting Endive, Succory, Celery, Collyflowers, &c. which are not replanted till about the middle of May. In fine, if we have neglected any thing that should have been done in March, we must be sure to do it at the very beginning of this Month, and particularly, we must sow Parsly, wild Endive, or Succory, and the first Harico's or French-Beans, the second being to be sown about the middle, and the third at the latter end of May, that so we may have a crop of them about two Months after sowing.

About this time, the Strawberries growing in the naked Earth, shoot forth their stems, when we must take exact care to pluck all the Cuckows among them, that is, those Straw-berry plants that blossom much without knitting; nay, I would have the Caprons pluckt up too, unless any Person have a particular fancy for them, they are easie to be known by their thick short and Velvet stems, their large Flowers, and their very long Velvet, and sharp pointed Leaves; but the Cuckows are somewhat hard to be distinguisht, parti∣cularly till their stems be formed. The most part of them are Strawberry Plants that have degenerated, and yet so, that the Leaves of the good ones and the bad ones are pretty like one another; but those degenerate Plants in process of time by their runners, pro∣duce an infinite number of others, which to appearance are very fair, and consequent∣ly very apt to deceive us, yet those that are acquainted with them, observe that they are a little more Velveted, and somewhat greener than the good ones. And in Conclu∣sion, I must tell you, that if extraordinary care be not taken to extirpate those unlucky Plants that impose upon us thus by their Beauty, we shall in little time find our▪ selves stockt with none but such, to which the Proverb particularly agrees, which saith, a fair show, but little Fruit.

We sow our last Cucumbers about the tenth or twelfth of this Month, to have some lateward ones, and such as may be fit to pickle in October, which last are commonly called Cornichons, or horned Cucumbers, and in English, Crumplings, and Guerkins.

The Strawberry stems must be much pinched, and some of them must be quite plucked up too when they shoot up in too great Numbers from feeble Plants; by pinching, here is meant the taking off the last Flowers and last Buds of every stem, leaving but three or four of those that first appeared upon those stems, and which are nearest to the Ground.

It is particularly about the end of this Month, that May Moon begins, that is so fer∣tile, and so vigorous in its Productions, when we must with all possible care run over our Wall-trees, and draw from behind the Trails, those Branches that grow between them and the Wall, as well the smaller ones, as more particularly those that are thick: at the same time Peach-Trees and other Stone-Fruit-Trees are to be pruned the third time, it having been done the second time whilst they were in Blossom, to take away all those Branches that had not blossom'd. And at this time we reckon, that all those Blossoms that will knit at all, are already knit, and accordingly we are not to count any of them for true Peaches, but those only that are well knit, and of a pretty bigness too, because

till then, many of them continue to fall, though they seemed well knit. And therefore it is convenient to shorten all those Branches which having been left long purposely for Fruit, have not answered that end, but have either retained no Fruit at all, or a very small quantity, and which perhaps sprout but weakly, that is, produce but very little shoots, or perhaps nothing but Leaves, the feeblest of those Branches must be dischar∣ged of all their shoots, to one or two at most, and in general, all those Branches must be shortned, that appear not vigorously, or that are blasted by the Ruddy Winds. And Lastly, we must leave only such a burden of Branches and Fruit on the Tree as shall be proportionable to its greater or lesser Vigour, and accordingly we must leave a great deal upon vigorous Trees, especially if they be sprung from Stones, and but a little on them that are weak, and always aim as near as may be, to form that which we call a goodly Tree, taking all possible care that each Fruit-Branch may have its Fruit at its Extremity. This third pruning should be done either before we new nail up our Wall-Trees, or at least whilst we are nailing them.

At this time likewise, we are to pinch, that is to say, break off, to four or five Eyes or Buds, those thick shoots in Peach-Trees that are sprung out since the main Pruning of that year, in order to make them shoot out three or four midling shoots, one where∣of may be for a Wood Branch, and the rest for Fruit; this Operation is to be perfor∣med particularly upon those very thick shoots that spring out of the Extremity of a Tree that is grown high, when it has already attained its due height. It is likewise sometimes, though rarely performed upon the lower shoots, when we have occasion to fill up any void places that are made near any very thick Branches, whether young or old, which we have cut short the last Winters Pruning; those thick Branches are but too subject ei∣ther not to sprout at all, or to grow full of Gum, both they and the young Shoots they produce in the Spring time.

It is not convenient to pinch any of all the other Fruit-Trees, excepting Graffs, when having been graffed upon thick stocks, they have begun to shoot out with too much ri∣gour, because the shoots of such graffs would grow too high, and too bare, if they were not checkt by this Operation, and made to produce many Branches that prove good, instead of one that otherwise might have remained useless, unless it be in such occasions we may pinch as long as we please, we shall never gain any advantage by it. Some∣times pinching extends likewise to Fig-Trees, but that is not to be done till the end of May, as I shall further shew afterwards.

Works to be done in May.

THe Effects of Vegetation during the Month of March, seemed to be but little proofs of Trial which Nature then made in order to some greater performances. For alass, Trees blossoming or shooting forth Leaves, or beginning to put forth swelling Buds. &c. are all marks of lesser vigour than weakness, after which, in the producti∣ons of April, we have seen the same Nature augment in strength, and shew its effects by the knitting of Fruit, lengthning out Branches, and the coming up of sown Seeds, &c. But at length when we once come to the Month of May, 'tis then that Mother of Vegeta∣tion seems in earnest to display and exert all the force she is Mistress of, in order to the maintaining her self in that flourishing Estate during the whole Months of June and July following, at this time covering the Walls with new Branches, plumping the Fruit, and covering the Earth with a lovely and charming verdure, &c. And now our Gar∣d'ners have great need to be upon their Guards, to prevent their Gardens falling into dis∣order, because 'tis most sure, that if they be not now extreamly careful and laborious, there is no Disaster, but they may expect; pernicious Weeds will in little time choke up all their good Seeds, their Walks and Alleys will be overgrown, and their Trees will fall into the greatest Confusion, for which reasons it will highly concern them to be ex∣treamly watchful and diligent to weed, manure, cleanse, to take off all superfluous Leaves and Sprigs, and to nail up Wall-trees, by which means it will be in their Power to acquire the desirable Commendation of having adorned and set out their Gardens with all the lustre and excellency which they ought to have.

Green Peas, that were sown in Banks or Borders in October, now begin to recompense our Pains, and to blossom at the coming in of this Month, (the Blossoms last commonly about eight or ten days before they begin to pod, and in three weeks after, they are fit to gather, and shell. In the mean while, about the seventh or eighth day of the Month, we should plant our Collyflowers, Milan Cabbages, Capucin Capers, or Nasturces, Beet-Chards, &c.

If we plant them sooner, they commonly run to Seed, which is to be avoided; and in fine for those things, we ought not to pass the fifteenth day, nor likewise for the sowing of Winter Cabbages. We now make all the hast we can, to make an end of dis-eying or slipping our Artichokes, which are vigorous, and seem to have need of being discharged and thinned, and we make an end of planting new ones. The Eyes or Sucker-slips are good enough, provided they be pretty thick and white, though they have no root at their heel or foot, and we may be sure to have very fine Fruit from them in Autumn, and in truth it were to be wished, they would yield none sooner, because those produced before that time are commonly pitiful, starveling, and as 'twere abortive Fruits. Yet 'tis not enough to plant only some good thick young slip-suckers, but we must likewise plant some midling ones, especially in some well sheltred place, only to fortifie themselves there during the rest of the year, that they may be able to yield us their first Artichokes next Spring; those which have born in Autumn, not making such swift advances as these other. Next we are to plant our Beet Chards almost at the same time, which are well placed, if planted in the middle of the Artichokes, that is, one Beet plant between two Artichokes, so that there may be some in one Rank, and none in the other, for there must be room enough left free, to go upon to water, weed, manure, gather, and to cover them too, when need shall require.

The Earliest Musk Melons begin to knit in the first quarter, or at the full of this Months Moon, but chiefly at the wane of it, if their Beds were very hot at the full, and are grown cooler at the wane.

We also at the same time Rank our Fig-Trees in the place alloted for the Fig Planta∣tion, that we may have them in the disposition we desire. They begin then to put forth their Leaves and shoots, and at length their Fruit begins to plump at the full Moon.

Towards the end of the Month, we begin with diligence and expedition, to nail up the new shoots of Wall-Trees, if they be strong enough to suffer it: And it is convenient to have finish'd this Work at the beginning of June, because at the end of that Month, we must begin the second nailing of the first shoots, and the first of those which were never yet nail'd. We must likewise pinch, or break off the thick shoots we find, whether because after the first pinching of April, they have not multiplied into Branches as far as they extend, and on the contrary, have produced yet but one thick shoot, or because, though they have multiplied into Branches, they have produced one shoot thick enough to be pinched; for otherwise that thick shoot would be unuseful and per∣nicious; unuseful, because it must be taken away, or at least be cut very short, and pernicious, because it will, as one may say, have robb'd other necessary shoots of that nourishment they should have had: Always taking it for a Rule, that we must in nailing, take care to couch all those Branches which may and ought to be couched, without tying several of them together, or taking away, or plucking off any that is sightly, unless it be that we can by no means couch it, in which case, we must cut it off within the breadth of a Crown piece of the place from whence it sprouts, in hopes that out of the two sides of the remaining stump of that thickness, there may sprout some good Fruit-Branches, we must also have a care not to lay one cross another, unless we be necessarily obliged so to do, to fill up a void place, or to preserve a uniform equality.

If there be any Trees designed to mount upright, we must accordingly order for that purpose, the Branch that seems most proper for it.

We tie the graffs either to their Trunk, or to sticks set up on purpose by them, to make them grow in that figure we would have them, and hinder them from being bro∣ken by the Winds.

We sow a great deal of Genua Lettuce, and we replant some of them, and of the other Lettuces also.

We likewise trim Pear-Trees, either to take off the false shoots if any appear, which is done by plucking them quite away when they make a confusion, or even such others which though they be good, yet because they might produce that confusion which is so much to be avoided in a Tree, must therefore be taken off, for the better fortifying of those that are to make the figure of that Tree; for a second shoot will grow much more vigorous, if we take away that which being at the extremity of the pruned Branch was counted for the first.

We sow Endive, that we may have some good, at the end of July, which may be white∣ned in the same place where it first grew, without removing, if it being sown thin, and well watered during the whole Month. We now also take the advantage of some rainy

weather, to replant in their designed places, our annual Flowers, some of them seldom failing to come to good there; we likewise take the advantage of the same time, to fill up with Basketed, or Circumposed Trees, the places of those that are dead, or that thwart our expectations, or that give us no very good hopes of their thriving. The manner of doing it, is, to make a hole big enough to hold the Basket and Tree, then to put it in, and carefully to fill up with Earth all the hollow space round about the Basket, and to press it down hard either with the foot or hand, and then to pour down all round upon it, two or three pitchers full of water, in order to the better incorporating the Earth without, with that within, so that there may not be left the least hollow in the world. It is necessary to renew these waterings two or three times during the rest of the Summer.

We also still plant Beet Chards, choosing for that purpose the brightest of those that are of the growth of the last sown Seeds, as being both fairer and better than those which are green.

We continue our Nurseries of Straw-berry Plants till the end of this Month, at which time, we may perfectly distinguish the good ones by their Stems, or upright shoots.

We also still continue to tie up those Lettuces that Cabbage not as they should.

We sow no more Lettuces, except Genuz Lettuces, after the middle of May, because all the rest but only this last sort, are too apt to run to Seed.

We replant Musk Melons and Cucumbers in the naked Earth in little Holes or Trenches filled with mold; we also plant Pumpions▪ or Citruls in the like holes, at the distance of three Toises or Fathoms, they are such as have been raised on Hot Beds, and therefore to make them take root again, the sooner, we cover them with something for five or six days, unless it rain, the great heat of the Sun, otherwise being apt to make them wither, and sometimes to kill them quite.

We continue to sow a few Peas, which must be of the biggest sort; and if we think good, we pull off some of the Branches of the others that are over vigorous, after they are well cleared of Weeds; Peas that are disbranched, bearing a more plentiful crop than others.

We bring out our Orange-Trees at the first quarter of this Months Moon, if the weather begin to be secure from the assaults of the Frost, and we put them into boxes that have need of it; I referr you for their culture to the Treatise I have composed expresly about that subject: It was our care during all the fair days in April, to leave open the windows of their Conservatories, to accustom them by degrees, to the open Air.

We trim our Jasmins when we bring them out, cutting off all their Branches to the length of half an Inch.

At the end of this Month, we begin to clip for the first time, our palisades, or pole hedges of Box, Filaria's, Yew and Espicia's.

Above all things, care must be taken to water all our plants largely, or else they will all roast and scorch, whereas by the help of seasonable waterings, we may visibly perceive them thrive. We also now water new planted Trees, and for that purpose, we make a hollow Circle of four or five Inches deep, round about the extreamities of the roots, and pour into it some pitchers of water, and when 'tis soak'd in, we either throw back the Earth into the Circle, or else we cover it with dry Dung, or little, in order to renew our waterings several other times, till the Trees have taken fast root again, after which, we fill it up with Earth again.

We may begin to replant our Purslain for Seeding towards the end of the Month.

We continue to trim Musk Melons, but we replant no more of them after the middle of May.

But we still continue to plant Cucumbers.

About the end of the Month; we begin to plant Cellery, and we use two ways of planting it, viz. either in Cold Beds hollowed into the Ground, as we do Asparagus, plan∣ting three ranks of them in every Bed, and placing both the ranks, and the Cellery plants at about a foot distance one from another, and that is the best way for them when they are a little bigger than ordinary, that so we may be able to raise the earth about them afterwards, with that which was taken out of the furrows, and which was thrown upon the next Cold Beds, or else we replant them on plain Ground at the same distance as before, and at the end of Autumn, binding them first with two or three bands; these are rai∣sed in tufts, that we may replant them as nigh as we can, to one another, that so they

may be the more easily covered with long dry Dung, and be the better whitened, and defended from the Frost.

Towards the end of the Month, we begin to tie our Vines to their props, and to nail up such stocks of them as are planted by Walls, after we have first clear'd them of all their feeble, unprofitable, and unfruitful Shoots and Sprigs.

We likewise plant single Anemonies, which flower a Month after, and we may have planted some every Month since the last preceeding August, they blowing and flowering in the same manner, if not hindered by an extream cold Season.

At the very beginning of the Month, or at least as soon as ever we can, we pick off, and thin our Apricocks when there are too many of them, never leaving two close to∣gether, that so those we leave on, may grow the bigger, and at the end of the same Month, we may pick off, and thin our Teaches and Pears, if they be big enough, and there be two many of them. About that time also, or at the beginning of the ensu∣ing Month, the first bright Cabbages are to be sown for Autumn and Winter, the biggest of them which are replanted in July, being to be eaten in Autumn, and the less vigorous which are replanted in September and October, being to serve for our Winter Provi∣sion.

During all the Month of May, the shoots of Wall-Trees are apt enough to slide them∣selves behind their trails or props as I have said in the Month of April, and we shall hardly be able to draw them out again without breaking them, unless we do it in time, and be careful once every Week, to take an exact view all along our Walls, to reme∣dy so mischievous an inconvenience, against which too much caution cannot be used. Ma∣ny Branches grow crooked, rugged, parched, and hooked at the ends, and their Leaves also; and therefore about the full Moon, we must pull off those Leaves so crumpled and hooked, and break off as low as we can, the parched shoots, that there may spring o∣thers instead of them that may be better and streighter. Fig-Trees too must now be pruned, and especially those in Boxes, of the method of doing which, I have compo∣sed a particular Treatise.

We continue to sow a few Radishes among other Seeds, as we should have also done in the two last preceeding Months.

We also now take the advantage of some gentle Showers, or of very cloudy weather, to uncover what we have sheltred under Glass Bells or Frames, as well for the watering of our Beds, as for the inuring and hardening them to indure the open Air.

If our Garden be situated in a Sandy and dry Ground, we endeavour by the help of some little Dykes or Gutters, to carry off all the water that falls sometimes in hastly Storms, to those places that are manured, that none of it may be unprofitably wasted in the Walks or Allies, and if they be situated in Ground that is too strong, fat and moist, such as that of our new Kitchen-Garden at Versailles, we drain it away from those Grounds that are incommoded by it, by conveying it into the Walls or Allies, to spend it self there, or shooting it off into Stone gutters that carry it out of the Gar∣den; for which purpose we must raise our Ground into arch'd ridges.

During all this Month, it is good to lay yellow stock Gilliflowers, by planting cut∣tings of them, where ever we have a mind, or by laying their Branches that still grow to their Plants.

Those that are curious in Carnations and Clove-Gilliflowers, in order to have double ones, sow some good Seeds of them about the 5, 6, 7, or 8th. of May Moon, in earthen Pans, or wooden Tubs, that at least they may begin to sprout at the full Moon, which sometimes happens in June, but most commonly in May, those plants ought to grow big enough to be removed in September, into the naked Earth, that so they may have taken Ground before the Equinox; others again content themselves with sowing their Seeds be∣fore the Equinox.

We should likewise replant before the end of May, some green curled, and Aubervilliers Lettuce, that we may have some all the Month of June, together with the Chicons, and Imperial Long-Lettuce.

We must also at this time endeavour to destroy the thick white Worms, which now spoil the Strawberries, and Cabbage Lettuce, and take away the green Caterpillars, which quite cat up the Leaves of the Curran and Gooseberry bushes, and so spoil their Fruit.

At the end of May, we should also thin those Roots that grow too thick, and replant those we have plucked up in another place, as Beet-raves, or Red Beet-Roots, Pars∣nips, &c.

We may replant Daisies, Bears-Ears, and white double Narcissus's, though in Flower, that not at all hindering them from taking Root again.

Works to be done in June.

IHere repeat the same Caution I have already given at the beginning of the Works of each Month, which is, that we must be careful to do that at the beginning of this Month, which we could not do in the last, and we must moreover continue all the same Works, excepting hot Beds for Musk-melons, which now have no longer need of them, but we may still make some for the latter Cucumbers, and for Mushrooms.

We may also plant some Artichokes, till the twelfth or fifteenth of the Month, which being well watered, will serve for the next Spring. Waterings are to no purpose, if they soak not to the Root, and therefore the deeper the Plant is rooted, the more plentifully must it be watered, and especially in dry Ground, for in wet Grounds, they must be wa∣tered both less often, and less plentifully. For example, Artichokes growing in light Grounds, have need of a Pitcher full or two of Water, for each Plant, whereas in stronger Grounds, one pitcher full will serve three.

Towards the middle of June, we plant Leeks in Holes or Trenches six full Inches deep, at half a foot's distance one from the other, which is done with a planting stick, placing but one of them in each hole, without heeding to press down the Earth close about the Leek, when we have done, as is practised to all other Plants that are set with a planting stick.

We continue to sow Endive, and Genua Lettuce, that we may be furnisht with some to replant upon occasion, all the rest of the Summer, and we gather the Chervil that is the first that runs up to Seed from the Chervil, that was sown the Autumn before, cutting off all the Seed stems, and when they are dried, threshing out the Seed, and fanning it like Wheat.

The same method is practised with all Seeds that are gathered each in their proper Seasons, and especially in the Months of July and August, taking great care to prevent the Birds, who are very greedy of them, from devouring them.

We replant Beet Chards in order to have them good to eat in Autumn, and they are best placed in the void space remaining between the Artichoke Ranks, they must be set at the distance of a Foot and a half one from the other.

We must take great care to extirpate all the Weeds which now grow up in abun∣dance, and that particularly before they run to Seed, to prevent their multiplying which they are apt to do but too much of themselves without sowing.

We must now also without further delay, clip all our Palisade's, and edgings of Box, so that they may be all furnisht at furthest at Mid-Summer, and have time to shoot out a∣gain before Autumn; and we must liberally water all Seeds sown in our Kitchen Gar∣dens.

We must water plentifully, and every day the Cucumbers upon Hot Beds, and Musk-melons moderately two or three times a Week, allowing half a pitcher full of Water to each Plant.

From the very middle of June we begin to graff by Inoculation, our Stone-Fruit-Trees, and especially Cherries upon great Trees, upon Wood of two years growth, which are cut off three or four inches from the place where the Scutcheon is to be placed. The best time for this, is always before the Solstice.

Gross Soils must be often stirred and manured, that they may not have time to grow hard, and chap, commonly we bestow an universal manuring or stirring up the Ground upon all our Gardens in this Season, and the best time to stir dry Grounds in, is either a little before or after Rain, or even whilst it rains, that the water may the more swiftly penetrate to the bottom, before the great heat comes to turn it into Vapors, and for strong and moist Soils, we must wait for hot and dry weather, to dry and heat them, before we move them, carefull Gard'ners make Dykes to convey the gluts of Water that fall about this time in hasty Storms, a cross their Squares, especially if their Ground be light; but on the contrary, if it be too strong, they drain the water out of the Squares, as I have said already, when I was speaking of the works of May.

Persons curious in Carnations, and Clove-gilliflowers, should have begun before this time to put Rings about each plant of them, to keep up their mounting stems, and hinder the Winds from breaking off their Buds or Buttons, the like they do to their Sedums, &c. and if they have not yet done it, they do it in this Month, and not only take off

from them the small Buds that grow upon them in over great Numbers, to fortifie the principal ones, but likewise the greatest part of the mounting stems, in order to pre∣serve only one of the fairest, and most likely, to produce the most beautiful Flowers.

We also still continue to destroy the thick white Worms that spoil the Strawberries and Cabbage Lettuce.

We carefully cultivate our Orange-Trees, according to the method prescribed in the Treatise I have composed purposely on that Subject.

The Wild Purslain begins to appear at the beginning of June, and lasts till the end of July, which must be carefully scraped.

We take up our Tulip Roots out of the Ground at the end of this Month, their Leaves being then withered.

We disbranch Harico's or French-Beans, and towards the end of this Month, we sow Peas to have them fit to eat in September.

Works to be done in July.

THis Month likewise requires a great deal of application and activity in a Gard'ner, to do all that he could not do the last Month, and to continue still all the same Works, but only the hot Beds. Now the great heats without waterings, do very great damage, but being allayed with frequent waterings, give Birth to very fine Producti∣ons.

In this Month, many sorts of Seeds are gathered, and Endive is sown for the provisi∣on of Autumn and Winter. We also sow Royal Lettuce to have it good for use at the end of Autumn.

We also still continue to sow some Ciboules, and white Beets for Autumn, and some few Radishes in cool Places, or such as are extreamly well watered, to have them fit to eat at the beginning of August.

If the Season be very dry, we begin at the latter end of the Month, to graff by in∣oculation of a Dormant Bud, upon Quince-trees, and Plum-Trees

We begin to replant White or Bright Cabbages for the end of Autumn, and the beginning of Winter.

We sow more Lettuce Royal.

We sow for the last time, our Square Peas in the middle of July, that we may have some to spend in October.

In this Month particularly, Peach-Trees produce several shoots. About the middle of July, we begin to lay our Clove-gilliflowers and Carnations, if their Branches be strong enough to bear it, otherwise we must stay till August, or the middle of September.

From the very middle of August, we begin to sow Spinage to be ready about the middle of September, and Mâches for Winter Sallets, and Shell-Lettuces, to have Provision of Cabbage-Lettuces at the end of Autumn, and during the Winter Season.

We replant Strawberry Plants in their designed Places, which we had raised in Tufts.

We gather Lettuce and Radish Seeds, as soon as ever a part of their Pods appears dry, and then we pull up their Plants, and lay the whole a drying.

We also gather the Seeds of Chervil, Leeks, Ciboules, Onions, Shalots, and Rocamboles, or Spanish Garlick.

We sow Radishes in the naked Earth, for Autumn.

At the latter end of the Month, we sow some Cabbage in some good Exposition, to re∣move into a Nursery, in some other well sheltered place, where they are to pass the Win∣ter, in order to be replanted in their designed places in the following Spring.

We also sow all the Month long, some Shell-Lettuces in some good Exposition, as well to replant at the end of September, or beginning of October, in the places where they are to remain under some good shelter, as to have some ready hardned to the cold, to replant again after Winter, either in the naked Earth in the Month of March, or upon hot Beds; at the very beginning of February, and if the Winter be very cold, they must be covered with long Litter.

We may sow Onions to have good ones the next year, at the very beginning of July, which it is best to replant in the Month of March next following.

We now water liberally.

We replant a great deal of Endive at a large foot distance between Plant and Plant, as also Royal and Perpignan Lettuces, which are very good in Autumn and Winter.

We sow Mâches for Lent.

We still continue to replant Winter Cabbages.

We shear our Palisade's the second time.

We continue to nail up our Wall-Trees, and by little and little, to uncover those Fruits, which we would have tinged with much Red, as Peaches, Api Apples, &c.

We tye up our Endive with one, two, or with three bands, if it be very high, but the uppermost Band must be always looser than the rest, otherwise the Lettuce will burst in the sides whilst it is whitening.

At the middle of August we begin to cover with compost, the Sorrel that was cut very close to recruit its vigour, a good Inch's thickness of Compost is enough to strew all over it, because they would be apt to rot, if we should use more to them.

We still continue sowing of Sorrel, Chervil, and Ciboules.

We pluck off the runners of Strawberry Plants, to preserve their old Stocks in the greater vigour, and when their Fruit is past, which is about the end of July, or the be∣ginning of August, we cut away all the old stems, and old Leaves, that they may pro∣duce new ones.

We also cut away all the old Stems of Artichokes, when the Artichokes are taken off.

We still continue sowing of Spinage, for the beginning of Winter.

We take our Onions out of the Ground as soon as their Stems begin to dry, and we let them lie ten or twelve days a drying in the Air, before we lay them up in our Grana∣ry, or some other dry place, or else we bind them up in Ropes, because otherwise they would ferment and rot, if they were laid up before they were dry.

We gather our Shalots at the very beginning of the Month, and draw our Garlick out of the Ground.

At the end of August the Florists set into the Earth their Jacinths, fair Anemonies and Ranunculus's or Crow-foots, Junquills, Totus Albus's and Imperials.

We destroy both ordinary Flies and Wasps which eat the Figs, the Muscat Grapes, and other Fruits, and for that effect, we tye some Bottles or Cucurbit-glasses full of water mix∣ed with a little Honey, to some of their Branches, by which means, those insects being allured by the sweetness of the Honey, enter into the necks of those Glasses, and so perish in that mixture, but they must be emptied and shifted with new Water, as often as they begin to fill with those little unlucky insects.

Though the first Bud of a Clove-gilliflower or Carnation is beautiful and Promi∣sing, it do's not follow thence, that all the rest will be so too.

The Beauties of a Carnation are, to be high and tall, well burnisht and garnisht, well ranged, of a lovely colour, well plumed and displayed, and of a perfectly Velvet-like softness to the Touch.

At the beginning of this Month, we tread down the stems of Onions, and the Leaves of Beet-raves, or Red Beet Roots, Carots, Parsnips, &c. or else we take off their Leaves quite, to make their Roots grow the bigger in the Ground, by hindering their Sap from spending it self above Ground.

It is still a good Season enough to lay Clove-gilliflowers and Carnations.

Works to be done in September.

THE Ground in Gardens in this Month should be universally covered all over, so that there should be not so much as the least spot in it without some Kitch∣en and Esculent Plants, whether sown or replanted, which is not altogether so necessa∣ry in the preceeding Months, both because we then reserve a good part of our Ground for Winter Plants, such as are Lettuces, Endive, Peas, &c. and because some plants re∣quire a very considerable time to arrive to perfection in, and would not have enough if they were allowed less than to the end of Autumn.

We still continue the works of the preceeding Month.

We make hot Beds for Mushrooms.

We replant a great deal of Endive, and that closer together now than in the forego∣ing Months, that is, we place them at half a foots distance one from the other, because now their Tufts grow not so large as before.

They must be replanted in almost all the spare places from the very beginning of the Month, till the fifteenth or twentieth day. At the latter end of the Month, we sow Spinage the third time, which will be good in Lent, and even in the Rogation season fol∣lowing.

We still continue planting Winter Cabbages, and especially those of the Greener sort.

We may likewise still about Mid-September, sow some Cold Beds of Sorrel, and replant some old, there being yet time enough for it to attain to a sufficient vigour before the first Frosts come.

During this whole Month we continue to remove Straw-berry Plants out of our Nur∣series, to reimplace those tufts which are dead in our Beds, and we immediately water them, as we must do all Plants which we set a new.

We set some in Pots towards the twentieth day, if we intend to force any in the Winter.

About the fifteenth of the Month, we graff Peach-Trees upon Almond-Trees, and upon other Peach-Trees as they stand in the places where they are to remain; the sap being then too much diminished to be in any capacity to overflow the Scutcheons.

We tie up first with Osier withs, and afterwards towards the fifteenth of the Month, we carefully wrap up with long Litter, or new straw, some Spanish Cardons, and Arti∣choke Plants, to have them whitened or Blanched about fifteen or twenty days after; But great care must be taken in wraping them up, to keep them perfectly upright, otherwise they will overset, and snap in sunder on one side; and to hinder the winds from laying them on one side too, they must be fenced with a Bank of Earth of about a full foot high.

Towards the end of the Month, we plant Cabbages in Nurseries, in some well sheltred place, in order to replant them in their designed places assoon as the Winter is over.

From the fifteenth of the Month to the end, and till the middle of October, we replant Shell Lettuces in some well sheltered place and especially near the foot of some Southern and Eastern Wall, that we may have some of them Cabbage for our spen∣ding in Lent, and during the whole Months of April and May.

We bind up our Cellery with one or two bands below, and then we raise a Butt or Bank about it, either with very dry long Dung, or with very dry Earth, to whiten it; but we must have a care not to tie it up but in very dry weather. The same caution must be observed in all Plants that are to be tied, after which, we cut off the extreami∣ty of the Leaves, to prevent the sap from ascending and spending it self to no pur∣pose, by which means it is kept down in the Buried Plant, and makes it grow thick.

We also now tie up the Leaves of some Collyflowers whose Fruit seems to begin to be formed.

We cover with compost, the Sorrel which has been cut.

We sow Maches for Lent, and for Reponces, it is not worth the while to sow them in a Garden because there are enough of them in the Spring time, to be found in the Corn Fields, and by hedge sides.

It is particularly in the Month, and during all Autumn, that Gard'ners most desire rain.

We continue to destroy Flies and Wasps that eat the Figs, Muscat Grapes, and Pears, and other Fruits, &c. with Bottles, or Cucurbit Glasses of Honied Water.

We sow Poppies and Larks Heels in Flower Gardens, to have them Flower in June, and July, before them that are sown in March.

In this Month, and the precedent one, we replant Endive among Cabbage Lettuces, these latter having commonly performed their duty, before the Endive is come to its full growth. Waterings must be continued as long as the weather is Hot and dry.

Good Winter Endive, if our Garden be in a sandy Soil, must be sown from the middle of August, to St. Lambert's Day, which is the seventeenth of this Month; and if it be in a stronger and heavier Soil, it must be sown a little sooner, and that always very thin, that in a Month's time, it may grow big enough to remove, that is to say, about as thick as ones Finger. It should be planted till the middle of September, at six or se∣ven Inches distance between Plant and Plant, that it may be replanted a second time, and that nearer together, afterwards, at the beginning of September two or three Inches deep in the Earth, if it be dry and sandy, or at least in a sloping Ground, without cutting off any thing from the Root, which has produced a little tuft, and it must

be covered in frosty weather, to prevent the cold from rotting it to the very Heart, which caution being observed, it will keep till Lent, whereas Endive that is come to its full growth before the bitter cold weather, will not keep at all in Winter.

Works to be done in October.

WE continue the same Works as in the preceeding Month, except Graffing, the Season for which is now past, but we are particularly busie in preparing Cel∣lery and Cardons; we plant a great many Winter Lettuces, and some too upon old Hot Beds, to force them so as to have them good for our eating about Martlemas.

At the beginning of the Month, till the tenth or twelfth day, we sow some Spinage to be ready for the Rogation Season.

We also sow our last Chervil upon the Ground, that it may be come up before the great Frosts, and may yield Seed betimes the next Year.

At the very beginning of this Month, if we did not do it at the beginning of the last, we take down our Hot Beds, and apply our selves to making of Stacks or large Cocks of the mouldiest Dung, to raise Mushrooms on.

We plant Winter Cabbages on those Stacks, we lay aside all the Mold or made Earth, to use again when we make new Hot Beds, and we carry away the rottenest Dung to those Grounds that are to be dunged.

About the middle of October, we carry back into their Houses our Orange-Trees, Tube∣roses, and Jasmins, placing them there with some agreeable Symmetry, leaving the Win∣dows open in the day, so long as it freezes not, but keeping them always carefully shut at Night, till at last we shut them up quite, and carefully dam up both them and the Doors.

We lay the Tuberose Pots upon their Sides to drain them from the Water, that the Roots of those plants may not rot in them.

We begin to plant all sorts of Trees as soon as their Leaves are fallen.

We still continue to plant a great many Winter Lettuces in some well sheltered Place, and on some good Borders, at six or seven Inches distance one from the other, there u∣sually perishing enough of them to prevent our Complaints of their growing too thick together.

Towards the middle of October, the Florists plant their Tulips, and all other Bulbous Roots not yet set into the Ground.

In this Month we must perform our last manuring and turning up of strong, heavy, and moist Grounds, as well to destroy the Weeds, and give an Air of neatness and a∣greeableness to our Gardens in this Season, when the Country is more visited by all the World than at any other time, as to make that sort of Ground timely contract a kind of Crust, that may hinder the Winter waters from so easily penetrating them, and on the contrary, may shoot them off down to places of a lower Situation.

We continue our Hostilities against the Wasps that destroy the Figs and Grapes, and the good Plums and Pears, &c.

We cut old Chervil, that it may spring afresh.

It is convenient to begin to sow now in some well sheltered place towards the South or East, or else upon Hot Beds, those Sallets, &c. that are to be made use of in Winter, or early in the Spring, upon Condition they be well covered when sown, against the cold, when it shall be time.

Works to be done in November.

IN this Month we begin to force an Artificial Spring by the means of our Hot Beds, up∣on which we sow little Sallets, viz. Small Lettuce to cut, Chervil, Cresses, &c.

We plant Lettuce to Cabbage, under Bells or Glass Frames, and we replant upon them, Mint, Tarragon and Balm Plants, and some Sorrel, wild Endive or Succory, and Macedonian Parsly. We also sow in them Peas, Beans, Parsly, and Burnet, and if the weather still continue pretty fair, we make an end of planting Lettuces in places of good shelter.

This is peculiarly the Month of the greatest Work and Labour of all, in order to the avoiding the inconvenience of wanting Garden necessaries, which is an ordinary Compa∣nion in this dead Season, to those that have been wanting in timely foresight; for in

earnest the Cold fails not to make great Havock in the Gardens of the lazy; and there∣fore at the very beginning of the Month, how flatteringly fair soever the weather appear, there must be some dry long Dung brought and laid near the Endive, Arti∣chokes, Chard Beets, Cellery, Leeks, Roots, &c. that being ready at hand, it may with the more facility in few hours be thrown upon every thing that needs it, to prevent their destruction; and assoon as ever the Cold begins to declare it self, we must begin to cover our Fig-Trees.

Now is the proper time to make Plantations of all sorts of Trees, and of Goose-berry, Curran, and Rasp-berry Shrubs, and 'tis good to continue on till the end of March, un∣less it be when it Freezes hard, or when the Earth is covered with a great deal of Snow.

During all the same time, we set Trees and Shrubs in Baskets, which we dispose of in some particular place, and especially towards the Northern quarter. We set in them Standards as well as Dwarfs, keeping an exact account in writing of the order of the several kinds. These Baskets are to be placed at half a foot distance one from the other, and must be so well interred, that but just their Brims at most may be discerned above Ground: And we couch in those Baskets, such Trees as are designed for Wall-Trees, just in the same manner as if we were actually planting them by Walls, and those which are designed to be planted in the open Air, we place upright in the middle of the Bas∣kets.

Assoon as the Frosts begin to appear, we begin to use the long Dung which we have been carefull to order to be brought and laid ready in needfull places; for example, if it be for Artichokes, we may keep them a little elevated towards the North, to serve them instead of a small shelter, till we cover them quite, or else if we be pressed with work to be done elsewhere, we cover them presently, always taking care however before we cover them, to cut off all that is withered from them. A little of this Dung serves a∣gainst the first attacks, but we redouble our coverings as the Cold augments. They which are not provided with that sort of dry Dung, may use instead of it, such dry Leaves as are gathered up in the neighbouring Woods.

If we have a mind to whiten for Chards any of the biggest of those Artichoke Plants, we tie them below with two or three Bands, and then we wrap them about with long dry Dung, or straw, which we bind over them again, as we have already directed when we were speaking of Cardons.

In dry Soils, we earth up a little our Artichokes, which would be pernicious in wet Grounds, because it would rot the Artichoke Plants.

It is convenient to let the Artichokes alone so covered till the full Moon of March be past, that being commonly very dangerous; and many Gard'ners are the cause of the loss of their Artichokes, when they let themselves be tempted by some fair days in March, to take off their coverings quite, and to proceed to manuring them; for if we uncover them, it should at most, be but a little, and we should always have that caution, to leave the Dung close by them, to be ready at hand to cover them again, in case the Frost returns.

At the very beginning of the Month, before the Frosts be come, we make an end of tying up our Endive that is big enough to suffer it, and we cover it with what we can get: we also cover our other Endive in the same manner, which we could not tie up. It likewise whitens equally well; and it is very convenient, if we have a conserva∣tory, to plant as many as we can of the biggest of them there, in tufts, as we shall further shew afterwards.

We cut down Asparagus stalks when the Seed is Ripe, which we carefully lay up, if we be minded to sow any of them in the following Spring. It would be dangerous to cut those stalks sooner, as well because of spoiling the Seed, as the plants or stocks themselves, which might by that means be irritated to an abortion, and producing before their time, some pitiful sorry little new shoots.

We take the advantage of some fair dry weather, to lay up all we have a mind to keep for our Winters provision; and for that effect, we take up the plants in tufts, with Earth hanging to them, before they be Frost bitten, and plant them very close to one another in the Conservatory, which are for Example, all Roots, as Carrots, Parsnips, and Beet-raves, or Red Beet Roots, and Artichokes, which have Fruit. The Green ones are more proper for this purpose than the Violet ones, which are more tender and less able to resist the Frost, and more apt to putrefie in that part next their stem, than the others which are more rustical and hardy. And also Spanish Cardons, Collyflowers and Endive or Succory, as well the White, as the Wild sort, and even Leeks and Cellery, though both

these last will keep well enough in the naked Earth, when they are well covered: But here it is to be noted, that Cellery when once whitened must be eaten presently, otherwise it would rot; And we must be carefull to raise some of it late, that may remain small in the Earth, without being very much covered, which serves for the latter end of February and the Month of March.

Those Persons who live near Woods, will do well to gather up the leaves there, not only to make use of for coverings, as I have said, but likewise to lay them to rot in some hole, the powder of them being very good, and especially to make use of for mold.

We now open and lay bare the Roots of Trees that seem to languish, in order to take from about them the old Soil, cut off as much of their Roots as is found in an ill condition, and Earth them up again afterwards with good new Earth.

We make some Hot Beds for Mushrooms. The method to make them well, is to choose some spot of new, and as near as can be, light and sandy Ground, and dig there a hollow Bed of five or six Inches deep, of three or four wide throughout, and of what length we please. The Dung must be either of Horse, or Mule, and must be already pretty dry, and such as has been piled up some time: Then we make the Bed about two foot high, ranking and pressing the Dung as close and tight as we can, yet so disposing it that the upper part of it may be raised into a ridge like the Back of an Asse, that it may the better shoot off the waters to the right and left, which if they should pierce through it, would rot the Dung; after that, we cover the Bed to the thickness of two foot more, with the Neighbouring Earth, over which again, we throw another covering of three or four Inches thick of Litter, which in the Winter may guard from the great Cold, and in the Summer, shade from the violent heat the Mushrooms which may be expected to shoot up about three or four Months after.

We cleanse Trees of Moss that are troubled with it.

They which have great Plantations of Trees to prune, should now begin that opera∣tion upon those which are least vigorous.

We employ the long dry Dung of which we ought to have made provision in the Summer, to cover our Fig-Trees, as well those of the Wall, as Dwarfs; and for these last, we tie all their Branches as close as we can conveniently, together with Osier Withs, that we may the more easily wrap them about with this covering; and for the Wall-Trees, we endeavour to leave so many of the higher Branches as we can, on the sides, and to tie several of them together to poles or forked sticks that are to serve them for Props, and by that means too, we cover them with more ease, and less charge. We leave on them that covering till the full Moon of March be past, at which time, we only take off part of it, till the full Moon of April be likewise past, the Frosts of these two last Months being dangerous to the young Fruit which then begins to put forth it self, as the Winter Frosts are to the Wood which they make to turn all into Pith.

They whose Pear-Trees are pestered with Tiger Babbs, will do well now, not only to gather up the Leaves that are attack'd by them, to burn them immediately, but also to scrape their Branches with the back of a Knife to clear them of the Eggs or Seed of that Cursed Insect, which remains sticking to them all Winter, for though we cannot so far prevail that way, as totally to exterminate them, yet however there will be so many Enemies destroyed, as we destroy of those Eggs.

The days being now very short, skilful Gard'ners will therefore work by Candle∣light till Supper time, either in making of Straw-Screens and Coverings, or preparing Trees for planting, as soon as the Frost permits them, or in designing, &c.

We put those Trees into the Earth in furrows which we could not plant, covering up their Roots as carefully as if we were planting them in their designed places, without leaving any hollow Chinks about their Roots, because otherwise the great Frost would spoil them.

We may begin at the latter end of the Month to force such Asparagus, as are at least three or four years old, and this forcing is performed, either on the cold Bed in the place where they grow, which is the best way, or else upon a Hot Bed, if we be minded to remove them. But ordinarily we stay till towards the beginning of the next Month, before we make any Essays of that kind, it being in my Opinion, long enough to have of them for four Months together by Artifice, till Nature be ready to furnish us with more of them for two Months longer by her own sole Virtue and Power, not but that we might begin to force them at the very beginning of September or October.

The way of forcing them is, to dig the Earth out of a Path, to the depth of two Foot, and the breadth of one full foot and a half, if originally the Path were but three Foot over, because there must be at least six or seven good inches of Earth be left next the Asparagus Tufts. The Path being thus voided, we fill it up with long hot Dung, very well ramm'd and trodden down, till it be a full foot higher than the Super∣ficies of the Cold Bed, at the first making, and after fifteen days, we stir this Dung over again, mixing some new Dung with it, the better to enable it to communicate sufficient heat to the two adjoyning Cold Beds, but if it appear too much mortified, so that the Asparagus does not shoot up briskly enough, then this recruiting of the path-way with fresh Dung and stirring, must be repeated afterwards as often as it shall be necessa∣ry, which commonly happens to be once every ten or twelve days. If there fall any great Rains or Snow, that may have too much rotted that Dung, so that it appears not to retain a sufficient heat, then must it be quite taken away, and all new put in its place; for in fine, this Bed must always be kept extreamly hot; as to the Cold Bed, in which the Plants are, the Ground must be digged up, and stirred a little in it, to the depth of a∣bout four or five Inches, as soon as the path-way is filled up, for it cannot be done be∣fore, because of bringing the Dung to that, (which cannot be done without much trampling on the Soil) which digging being finished, we cover the said Cold Bed with some of the same long Dung, to the thickness of three or four Inches, and at the end of fifteen days, so much time at least being necessary to give activity to those Asparagus Tufts, that in this Season, are as 'twere dead, or at least benumbed with the cold, we lift up the Dung to see whether the Asparagus begin to shoot or no, and if they do, at every place where they appear, we clap a Glass Bell, which we also take great care to cover close with long Dung, and especially a-nights, to prevent the Frost from penetrating in the least man∣ner in the World, to the Asparagus, which being so extreamly tender and delicate as 'tis, would be absolutely spoiled by the least breath of Cold. If in the day time, the Sun shine out a little bright, we must not fail to take off the Dung from the Bells, that the Asparagus may be visited by those kindly beams that animate all things, and if besides those Bells, we had likewise Glass Frames to clap over them, and so doubly to cover whole Beds of Plants, that would still be more commodious and more advantageous for bring∣ing to effect this little Master-piece of our Art. By these helps, the Asparagus springing out of that warm Earth, and meeting with a warm Air under those Bells, grow red and green, and of the same thickness and length as those of the Mont••s of April and May; nay, and prove a great deal better too, because they have not only been unattack'd by the injuries of the Air, but have attained their perfection in much less time than the o∣thers, and I can without vanity affirm, that I was the first that by the inducement of some very plausible Reasons, devised this expedient, to oblige the greatest King in the World, with a Pleasure before to him unknown.

I add here, that a Bed of Asparagus dextrously forced, and well maintained, produces abundantly enough for a Fortnight or three Weeks, and that because the King should not want during the whole Winter, this new Dish which he beholds with so gracious an Eye, as soon as the first Beds begin to furnish him, I begin to force as many new ones, and so continue the same course every three Weeks, till the end of April, when Nature advertises me, that 'tis time to put an end to those Violences I have done Her, and that she is then willing in her Turn, to serve us some Dishes prepared by her own skill.

I can likewise tell you, that though my Beds are but ••i••teen Toises or Fathoms long, and that I force but six at a time, yet there is spent on them each time, at least fifty Cart loads of Dung, and that the only Vexation I meet with in this Work, is to see an infinite number of Glass Bells broke with covering and uncovering them every day, in spite of all the care I can take to prevent it.

We may likewise remove old Asparagus Plants out of Cold Beds into Hot ones, it being true that they spring there, but they never prove so fair as the others, and are attended besides with this inconvenience, that they die there in a very short time.

We force Sorrel and Wild Endive, or Succory, Macedonian Parsly or Alisanders, &c. in the same manner as we do Asparagus, but most commonly it is done rather upon Hot Beds, than on the naked Earth, and the Success is very speedy and infallible, and particularly in procuring in one fifteen days time, Sorrel that is as fair as that of the Month of May.

We should have finished our last manuring of dry Grounds the fifteenth day of this Month, as well to render them impenetrable to the Rain and Snow waters, as to destroy the Weeds, and to make our Gardens appear something neat and handsome.

We preserve in their places, or rather we transplant in Turfs, such Cabbages as we design for Seed; and if in the Month of April, we perceive they meet with any diffi∣culty in making their way, we must help them by giving the Cabbage a cut cross-wise on the Head pretty deep, by which means the Seed stem will the more easily pass. We do the same thing in May to some sorts of Cabbage Lettuce, which have much ado otherwise to run up to Seed.

To have Radishes betimes, that is, towards Christmas, or Candlemas, we sow them in Hot Beds about the middle of November. I have already laid down directions for the making of Hot Beds, in the works of February: That which is particularly to be observed for Radishes, is that we must beat down with a board, the Superficies of the mold, to render it a little solid, and to prevent it from rowling into the holes that are to be made to Sow the Radishes in, after which, that the Bed may be handsomly Sown, we take a cord rubbed with Plaster, or Chalk, or other white matter, and holding it well stretched out between two of us, we mark out with it as many white lines, at three or four Inches distance one from another, both throughout the whole length and breadth of the Bed, as its extent will permit, and then with a round wooden planting stick of a full Inch thick, we make holes all along every line at the like distance of three or four Inches one from another, and we put only three Radish Seeds into every hole, and if we chance to let fall any more we pull up all the Radishes that come up above the number of three. They which observe not to mark out such lines, but make their holes by random-sight only, have their Beds not so handsome, and they which make their holes nearer, and which leave more than three Radishes in a hole, run the hazard of having Radishes with a great many leaves and but little Root, there are many Market Gard'ners whose practise it is, to Sow lines or rows of Lett••ces in February and March, a cross their Beds of Ra∣dishes, but then the holes must be made at the distance of seven or eight Inches; and the Lett••ces thus sown in lines, will be gathered and spent, before the Radishes are fit to gather.

If it freezes very hard we cover the Hot Bed, with long steeped Straw, for five or six days, besides which, for its further defence against the rigours of the Winter, wecover them with Straw-Screens or coverings, supported upon Traverse Frame•• or Cradles composed of Stakes, or other Poles of Wood, placed very near the Superficies of the mold, and we stop the sides close up, and if the Frost increase notably, we put a new load of long dung over those Straw-Screens, but if it be but moderate, there will need no other covering, the heat of the Bed being sufficient to defend the Plants; Radishes thus sown come up in five or six days, and if the holes had not some Air, they would be smoothed and grow dwinling in piercing through the small Straw.

We must not fail at the beginning of this Month, to take up in Turf, the Cellery which we had planted at a reasonable distance, in the Months of June and July, in particular Cold Beds; and when we have taken it up, to carry it into the Conservatory, or else to replant it in some other Cold Bed, placing its Plants very close together, that they may the more easily be covered.

Assoon as the White Frosts seem to be setled, we must cover our Winter-Lettuces which are planted in well sheltred places, but not with dry Dung as other Plants, for fear some of the filth should get into the heart of those that Cabbage, but with very clean Straw, upon which we lay some long pole of Wood, to keep it in its place, and hinder the wind from blowing it off.

Works to be done in December.

IF it be a pertinent caution I have given at the beginning of every Month, That we ought then to be careful to finish what we could not do in the preceeding Month, it is particularly necessary to repeat it at the beginning of this Month, with respect to that which last expired. Assoon as December is come it is no longer time to dally. For now the Earth in Gardens is quite strip'd of all its usual ornaments, and the Frost that seldom fails to signalize it self this Month, without respecting the quality of their Ma∣sters, spares no bodies Gardens, but unmercifully destroys all it meets with of a nature too delicate to endure its rigour; and therefore it concerns us now to make an end of housing and of covering what we could not house or cover in the Month of November, viz. Endive, Cardons, Cellery, Artichokes, Roots, Collyflowers, Chard-Beets, Leeks, Fig-Trees, &c. And above all things, we must be careful to preserve those Novelties which we may have begun to advance by Art, as Peas, Beans, Cabbage, Lettuce, and little Sallets,

to avoid the displeasure of seeing perish in one bitter Night, what we have been labour∣ing two or three Months to advance.

We may likewise still at the beginning of the Month, continue to sow some early Peas, upon some banks made of Earth raised in double slopes along by some Wall placed in a good Exposition, and especially that towards the South.

We transport our rotten Dung to those places we design to muck, and spread them abroad there, that the rain and Snow waters may the better penetrate them, and carry their Salt a little below the Superficies of the Earth where our Seeds are to be sown.

We interr our Almonds in some Basket, to Sprout. They should have sprouted by the Month of March, to be ready then to be planted in their allotted places. It is conveni∣ent to prevent the great Frost from coming at them; for which end the Baskets must be housed up in the Conservatory, or else well covered with long Dung if left in the naked Earth. The way to lay these Almonds to sprout, is first to lay at the bottom of the Basket, a layer of Sand, Earth or mold, or made Earth between two and three Inches thick, and to lay a Layer of flat Almonds, upon it with their sharp ends inwards, till its first layer of Earth be quite covered with the layer of Almonds, upon which we lay a second layer of Mold or Sand of two Inches thick, and then upon that again a second layer of Almonds placed in the same manner as the first, and so a third and fourth, &c. till the Basket will hold no more.

It is likewise not amiss to put one single layer of Almonds into the naked-Earth, and to cover them with Earth, to the thickness of about three Inches: When they begin to come up at the latter end of April, we take them in up Turfs, that is, with some Earth hanging to them, and breaking off their sprouts, we replant them in their designed places, in rows distant one from another, a foot and a half, and in those rows, the Almonds must be placed at the distance of half a foot from each other.

We are busie in making trails for Wall-Trees.

We may prune Trees as long as there is no Icicles, or hoar upon the Branches, and as the hard Frosts do not raign, for they harden the Wood so that the pruning knife can∣not easily pass: Always observing that we must never prune Wall-Trees without unnail∣ing them, because it would be too troublesom to do it otherwise, neither can we so well discern what Work we are to do.

One of the most principal Works of this Month, is, at the beginning of it, to make a Hot Bed of long new Dung of the ordinary breadth of four foot, and height of three, and assoon as its great heat is spent, we must sow upon it, under Glass Bells, some good bright Curled Lettuce, and assoon as 'tis grown a little big, which usually happens in a Month's time, we must take up the fairest, and plant it in a Nursery upon another Hot Bed, and under other Bells, to the number of twenty, or twenty five under every Bell, and when they are grown reasonably big there too, we must take up the biggest with a little Earth about them, to replant them to the number of five or six under each Bell, to remain there till they be quite Cabbaged, which usually happens towards the latter end of March, and we take care to fence them well from the Cold, as well with coverings of Litter, as by new heating their Beds.

We practise the same method in sowing these Lettuces in the Month of January, and in replanting in February, that we may have some ready betimes, that is, towards the end of March, and to continue so doing till the Earth produces us some of her self, without the help of Hot Dung. At this time they that employ themselves in rear∣ing Novelties, spend the most part of each day in covering them at night, and uncovering them in the morning, or else all comes to nothing.

When in the Winter time, we are raising and forcing of Lettuce upon Hot Beds, and under Bells, we must be careful often to lift up the Bells, to take away the dead Leaves, there being a great many that rot and perish, and one rotten Leaf rots others. The inside of the Bells must also be cleansed from the filth and moisture that gathers there in abundance, and when there comes a fair Sun shiny day, we must not fail to lift up the Bells, that the moisture may be dryed up that sticks about the Leaves. But the chiefest thing to be observed above all, is to keep the Beds moderately hot, by recruiting and new heating, and fermenting them from time to time.

Provisions and Products we may have from our Gardens in the Month of January.

BEsides the good Pears following, viz. Leschasseries, Ambrets, Thorn Pears, St. Ger∣mains, Dry Martins, Virgoulees, and Winter Boncretiens, &c. and these good Apples, viz. Calvils, Pippins, Ap••'s, Courpendu's, or short stalkt Apples, Fennellets, or Fennel-Ap∣ples, &c. And lastly, besides some sorts of Grapes, as the ordinary Muscat, the long Mus∣cat, the Chassela's, &c. every Person may have Artichokes, &c.

All sorts of Roots, as Beet-raves, or Red Beet-Roots, Scorzonera's, Carrots, Parsnips, com∣mon Salsifies, or Goat's Beard, Turneps, &c.

Spanish Cardons, and Chards of Artichokes whitened.

Cellery whitened.

Macedonian Parsly or Alisanders whitened.

Fennel, Anis, and Endive, as well that which is called the White, as that which is called Wild, or Succory.

Collyflowers, &c. All these things must have been brought into the Conservatory in the Months of November and December, and ordered as I have directed in speaking of the Works to be done in those two Months.

Besides which, we have also Pancaliers, Milan, and Bright, or large sided Cabba∣ges.

These sorts of Cabbages are not carried into the Conservatory: on the contrary, they must be Frost-bitten in the open Air, to make them tender and delicate.

We may also have some Citruls or Pumpions, and some Potirons, or flat Pumpions, by the help of a Conservatory.

We may have also pickled Cucumbers, pickled Purslain, pickled Mushrooms, and pick∣led Capucin Capers, or Nasturces.

We may have Onions, Garlick and Shalots, out of the Conservatory.

We may have Leeks, Ciboules, Burnet, Chervil, Parsly and Alleluia, or Wood-Sorrel, &c.

We may have very good Reddish Green Asparagus, which are better than those that grow naturally in April, and all the Month of May.

And by the help of Hot Beds, or heated Path-ways, we may have very fine Sorrel, as well of the round as long sort, and little Sallets of Lettuce to cut, with their Furnitures of Mint, Tarragon, Garden-Cresses, tender Chervil, &c. and Parsly, Borage, Bugloss, &c.

We may likewise have little Radishes upon Hot Beds, provided the abundance of Snow, and the rigour of the Frosts be not so terrible great, that we cannot for so much as a few hours in a day, uncover the Beds on which they are, nor give them any new Recruits of heat, without which, all that is planted of this sort, on Hot Beds, is subject to grow yellow, and come to nothing.

We may likewise have Mushrooms upon Hot Beds made on purpose for that effect, and which are kept carefully covered with long dry Dung, to prevent the hard Fosts from spoiling them.

We have now naturally but few Flowers, except those of Laurel-Time, or Laurus Thymus, and Snow drops, but by the help of Hot Beds, we may have some single A∣nemonies, Winter Narcissus's, and Narcissus's of Constantinople, Crocus's, &c. And we have now Lawrel Rose-leaves to garnish the Dishes we serve up to Table.

Provisions and Products of February.

THE Weather usually begins to grow a little milder this Month, so that as to Flow∣ers, we may now naturally by the favour of a good Shelter and a good Exposition, have of all those sorts which I told you in my Discourse of the Products of the last Month, might be raised by forcing on Hot Beds. Besides which, we may have some Primroses, and the heat of the Hot Beds may even produce us some Tulips, and Totus Al∣bus's.

But in respect of Kitchen-plants, we have as yet only those things which we have before mentioned; that is to say, we continue to spend the Stock we have in the Conser∣vatory or Store-house, and what we raise by the assistance of our Hot Beds, and artifici∣al heatings, as little Sallets, Sorrel, Radishes, Asparagus, &c.

Provisions and Products of March.

VVE have now upon our Hot Beds, abundance of Radishes, and little Sallets, and of Sorrel, and Cabbage Lettuces under Bells, which are the bright cur∣led Lettuces sown in November and December, and afterwards transplanted into other Hot Beds. The other sorts of Lettuces will not come to any thing under Bells.

We continue to have forced Asparagus, and to spend what we had laid up in the Con∣servatory, as Cardons, Collyflowers, &c.

As to Flowers, if the cold be not extraordinary violent, we have every where, and that naturally, all those sorts which blow only in good Expositions in the preceeding Months, besides which, we have Violets, Jacinths, Passe-touts, and single Anemonies.

And towards the end of the Month, we have English Narcissus's, Narcissus's of Al∣gers, English Iris, or Flower-de-Luces, yellow Stock-Gilliflowers, Nonesuch Narcissus's, single and double Hepatica's, as well of the Red, as of the pale Violet Sort, Hellebore Flowers, some single Junquils, of which we sometimes compose double ones, by putting the Leaves of two or three into one Button.

And we need not now force any Flowers, unless it be single or double Junquils, if the Weather be very hard.

And if the weather be very mild, we have double Anemonies, Bears Ears, Fritillaria's, some Spring Tulips, Daisies, Flammes, or Flame-flowers, Persian Iris, and Junquils at the latter end of the Month.

Provisions and Products of April.

VVE have now abundance of Radishes, Spinage, and Sallets with their Furnitures, and other edible Herbs.

We have likewise at the very beginning of the Month, bright curled Cabbage Lettu∣ces, if we have taken care to raise any upon Hot Beds, otherwise we have none, for the Winter Lettuces are not as yet Cabbaged.

We have also at the very beginning of the Month some Strawberries by the extraordi∣nary help of our Hot Beds, and Glass Frames, if we have had the Will, or convenience to make use of them.

We have Asparagus produced naturally and without Artifice.

We have an infinite number of Flowers, as Anemonies, Ranunculus's or Crew foots, Im∣perials, Narcissus of Constantinople, English Narcissus, and Algers Narcissus, white Narcissus, Prim-Roses, Violets, Hepatica's, both red and pale blue, and about the end of the Month we have fair Tulips.

Provisions and Products of May.

IT is now the time of the flourishing Reign of all sorts of Verdures and Green things, and of Sallets, Radishes, Asparagus, and Cucumbers as to their plenty and abundance. Peas and Strawberries now begin to come in, and we may and ought to have of those sorts of Long Lettuces call'd Alfanges, and white Chicons, provided we have had time∣ly care to raise some upon Hot Beds, and early to transplant them, either in other Hot Beds, or else in the naked Earth in some well exposed place.

We have an infinity of all sorts of Flowers, Tulips, Stock-gilliflowers of all colours, Prim-roses both deep blue and pale blue, Musaris, Daisies, Flames, Spring Honey-Suckles, Roses of Gueldres, single Anemonies, &c.

We begin to have Orange Flowers as soon as ever the Orange-Trees, are brought out of their Conservatories about the middle of May.

We have also both single and double Narcissus's, and Peonies both of the Flesh, or Car∣nation, and of the very red colour.

We begin likewise to have some Spring Larks Heels.

We have the Flower of the Trifolum Arboreum, or yellow Trefoil, growing on a shrub, and both the Common and Persian Lilac, Mary-golds, and Sedums, otherwise called Palmaria, and Musked white stock Gilliflowers, both single and double, that is to

say, the Julians. As likewise Columbines, Veronica's, or Fluellins, plumed or panached Jacinths, yellow Martagons, with their Flame coloured Pendant, Spanish Carnati∣ons, &c.

Towards the end of the Month, we begin to have abundance of Strawberries, and some early Cherries.

Provisions and Products of June.

VVE have now abundance of all sorts of red Fruits, as Strawberries, Currans, Gooseberries, Cherries, and Bigarro's or Heart-Cherries, &c.

Some Pears, and particularly little Muscats.

We have upon the plain and natural Earth, all sorts of Sallets with their Furni∣tures.

Abundance of all sorts of Kitchen Herbs.

Abundance of Artichokes and Beet-Chards.

Great store of Peas, and of Garden, and French Beans.

Great store of Mushrooms and Cucumbers.

At the end of the Month, we begin to have some Verjuice Grapes, and White En∣dive,

We have also great plenty of fine, or sweet and strong scented, or Aromatick Herbs, viz. Time, Sage, Savory, Hyssop, Lavender, &c. And also of Medicinal Herbs.

We have Roman Lettuces, and white Alfange Lettuces, and abundance of Genua Lettuces.

We have Purslain.

We have abundance of Flowers, as well to garnish Dishes, as to set out Flower∣pots, viz. Double Poppies of all colours, white, pale, violet, flesh-coloured, or Carna∣tion, flame coloured, purple, violet colour'd, and panached or striped; yellow, and vio∣let pansies, Larks Heels, Julians, Fraxilenes, or Fraxinella's, or Bastard Dittanies, Ro∣ses of all sorts, viz. double, panached or striped, double Eglantines, or Dog-roses, Roses of Gueldres, Cinnamon Roses, white Lillies, yellow Lillies, Matricaria's, or Feather∣few's, Asphodel or Asphondel Lillies, Calves-snowts, Virga Aurea, or Golden Rod, of Jassee Flowers of two colours, Gladiolus's, Veronica's, or Fluellins, Spanish Carnations, Mignards, Verbascums, or Mullein Flowers, double Coqueriers.

Thlaspi or Treacle Mustard of two sorts, the great and little Muscipula's, Valerians, Toute-Bonnes, or Algoods, or Good Harries, Poets Gillyflowers, both the white and Carnations, yellow Willow Herbs, or Loose-strifes, Lady-Gloves; and towards the mid∣dle of June, Roman Chervil, Orange Flowers, Tuberoses, single Anemonies, Mignardi∣ses, and Marine, or Sea violets.

We have still very fine Pippins.

We begin to see some Cabbages.

We have likewise some Musk-melons at the latter end of the Month, and some very fine Carnations, and double Jerusalem Cresses.

Provisions and Products of July.

VVE have in this Month abundance of Artichokes, Cherries, Griots, or Agriots, and Bigarro's, or Heart Cherries.

Plenty of Strawberries, Peas and Beans.

Great store of Cabbages, Musk-melons, Cucumbers, and all sorts of Sallets.

Some white Endive, and some Radishes.

Some Plums, viz. the yellow Plum, and the Ceriset, or little Cherry-plum.

Some Summer Calvill-apples.

A great many Pears, viz. Maudlin-Pears, Cuisse Madams, or Lady Thighs, Great Blanquets, or great White Pears, Orange-green Pears, &c.

About the middle or latter end of July, we have the first Figs.

We have Peas and Beans of two sorts.

We have Radishes, and

Abundance of Muskmelons towards the middle of the Month.

We have Verjuice.

As for Flowers, we have still a great many, and the most part of them I have men∣tioned in the preceeding Month.

We have besides them, Geranium Nocteolens, or Night smelling Cranes-bill, Rue with its Olive-colour'd Flower, Jerusalem Cresses, both single and double, Clovons, Indian Harico's, or Kidney-Beans, of a flame colour, which last till November, Cyanus, or Dog, or Corn∣flowers, both white, and pale violet, Capucins, or Nasturces, Camomils, Staphysagria, or Staves∣acre, and towards the middle of July, Clove-gilliflowers and Carnations begin to come in.

Provisions and Products of August.

WE have at this time abundance of Summer Pears, and of Plums, and of some sort of Peaches, as Maudlin, Minion, and Bourdin Peaches, &c.

As also of white Endive.

Plenty of Figs.

Great store of Musk-melons and Cucumbers.

We have also some Citruls or Pumpions.

A great many Cabbages.

We have Verjuice.

We continue still to have all sorts of green Herbs, all Kitchen-Roots, and Onions, Garlick and Shalots. As also,

Abundance of Larks-Heels, Indian Roses, and Indian Gilliflowers, or French Marigolds, great store of Musked Roses, Monthly Roses, Jasmin, Latter Larks-Heels, Tuberoses, Matrica∣ria's, and greater or lesser Thlaspi's, and besides them, Sun-flowers, Asters, or Oculus Chri∣sts's, &c.

Provisions and Products of September.

WE have now abundance of Violet Peaches, Admirables, Purple, Persick Peaches, &c. Great store of Russelet, or Russet Pears, melting Pears of Brest, some Butter-Pears, &c.

Plenty of Endive, and of Succory, and of Cabbages.

Towards the end of the Month begins to come in abundance of second Figs.

At the latter end of the Month we have likewise some Spanish Cardons, some Artichoke Chards, some Cellery Stocks, a great many Citruls, or Pumpions, store of Artichokes, and some Musk-melons still.

Some Collyflowers.

We begin to have some good Muscat Grapes.

We have Vine Leaves to garnish our Dishes.

We have Verjuice.

And some Oranges.

As to Flowers, we have now great store of Tuberoses, Asters, or Oculus Christi's, of Flower gentles, Velvet Flowers, or Amaranthus, of Indian Gilliflowers, or French Marygolds, of Indian Roses, Marvels of Peru, Tricolor Volubilis, Lawrel, or Bay Roses, both white and Car∣nation, Ultramarine Roses, Ordinary Stock-Gilliflowers, both of the white and violet Sorts, &c. Ciclamens, and some Orange-Flowers, with single Anemonies.

Provisions and Products of October.

VVE have abundance of second Figs.

Plenty of Muscat and Chassela's Grapes.

Great store of Butter Pears, Doyennee, or Dean-Pears, Bergamots, Vine-Pears, Lansacs, Cra∣sans, and Messier-Johns.

Abundance of Endive and Succory, Cardons, Artichoke-Chards, Beet-Chards, Mushrooms, and Cucumbers, and still some Musk-melons too, if there have been no hard Frosts.

We have all manner of green Pot-Herbs, Sorrel, Beets, Chervil, Parsly, and Ciboules, Roots, Garlick, Onions, and Shalots.

Great store of Peaches, viz. Admirables, Nivets, White Andillies, Latter Violet Peaches, Yellow latter Peaches, Rambouillet, and Cadillac Pavies, or Bastard Peaches, Yellow Pavies, and Red Pavies.

Spinage and latter Peas.

For Flowers, we have single Anemonies, Tuberoses, Lawrel, Time, Flowers, Velvet Flow∣ers, Jasmins, Lawrel-Roses, Ciclamens, &c.

Provisions and Products of November.

VVE have still in the beginning of the Month, some Figs, and some latter Yellow Pavies.

We have Winter Thorn Pears, Bergamots, Marchionesses, Messire Johns, Crasans, Peti∣toins, some Virgoulee Pears, Ambrets, Leschasseries, Amadots, &c.

We have Artichokes.

We have abundance of Autumnal Calvil Apples, and some white Calvils.

The Fennelets or Fennel Apples, and Courpendu's, or short stalkt Apples begin also to ri∣pen.

We have Spinage, Endive and Succory, Cellery, Lettuces, Sallets, and Pot Herbs, and Cab∣bages of all sorts, and Roots and Pumpions.

For Flowers, we have almost the same as in the foregoing Month, as also some be∣ginnings of Thlaspi semper virens, or ever green Thlaspis.

Provisions and Products of December.

BY the assistance of our Store-house and Conservatory, we have all the same things that we already mentioned in the Month of November.

We may also now begin to have some forced Asparagus; And,

Some very green and tall Sorrel, in spite of the hardest Frosts.

We have Spinage.

We have Winter Cabbages, as well of the bright and long-sided sort, which are the most delicate, as of the green sort.

We have abundance of Virgoulee Pears, Thorn Pears, Ambrets, St. Germans, Dry Martins, Portal Pears, &c. As also,

Of Api Apples, Pippins, Courpendu's, Femellets, or Fennel Apples, and some Calvils too still, &c.

As to Flowers, we have store of Lawrel, Time, Flowers, and we have some Anemonies and Ciclamens.

CHAP. IV.

How to judge certainly by viewing and visiting a Kitchen-Garden, whether there be any thing wanting in it, which it should be stockt with.

IT is no inconsiderable thing to understand certainly, not only what Provisions a Kitch∣en-Garden well maintained and ordered may furnish us with every Month in the Year, but likewise what works are to be done there in every Season, by an able Gard'ner, but yet that is not enough to make a Gentleman so knowing, as to be able to give him∣self the Pleasure to judge certainly by viewing of his Kitchen-Garden, whether it be indeed so well stockt or no, as to want nothing that it should have. For in fine, we must not expect always actually to find init, all the advantages we are beholding to Gardens for. We know indeed, that it should bring forth a provision for the whole Year, but we know very well too, that it does not bring forth all days in the Year, for example, in the Winter Months we hardly see in it any of its Productions, the most part of them being then carried out of it, and laid up in Store-houses and Conservatories. And besides, a∣mong the Plants that are to be seen in it at other times, how many is there which have not then attain'd to their perfection, which yet ought to make a Figure in this Garden, though they require perhaps two or three, and sometimes five or six Months time to arrive to it? Thus it is in the beginning of the Spring, with all Legumes or Edible Plants, and green things, and thus it is too in the Summer, with the principal Fruits of the other Sea∣sons, upon which Consideration, I thought it not impertinent nor unuseful, to shew yet

a little more particularly wherein consists the excellency and accomplishment of a Kitchen-Garden, judging of it acccording to the proportion of what we ought to find in it every time we go into it, and to give you the more exact and perfect an Idea of it, I will as near as I can, draw you the picture of our Kings, which is in its kind, the greatest that ever was beheld, as its Master is the greatest Prince that ever yet appeared; not, that I exhibit this Picture to engage any Person to copy it, but only to direct them how by the Rules of a just Comparison, and proportion of great things to little, they may take such Measures, as they shall think most accommodated to their own particular conve∣niences.

I will begin this Chapter with the Month of January, as I have done the two next preceeding ones, and shall tell you first, That in the Month of January, we ought to * 1.36 be very well satisfied with the Garden in Question, if we find in it a reasonable quantity of Winter Lettuces planted in Borders by Walls, and covered with long Straw, or Straw Screens. And Secondly, if we find in it some Squares of Artichokes, and Beet-Chards well covered with long Dung, with the like provision of Cellery, Endive, Common Parsly, and Macedonian Parsly, or Alisanders, &c. and ordered after the same manner. And in the third place, some Winter Cabbages, Ciboules, Sorrel, and Sallet Furnitures, and if these two last be sheltred with some sort of Covering. And if in the fourth place there be some squares of Asparagus without any other Artifice, than what is used to warm and force them in their Cold Beds, as I do, and have begun to do in November and December. All o∣ther Kitchen-plants must be housed and laid up, as Roots, Onions, Cardons, Artichokes, Col∣lyflowers, &c. In the fifth place, we may be content if we find the Fig-Trees well covered, all places where Trees should be, well filled up with Trees, or at least, with holes dig∣ged, and Trenches prepared, ready for planting them, or the Roots of those bared and laid open, that begin to languish, in order to their Cure. Sixthly, if we see Men busie in clearing the Fruit-Trees of Moss, and other filth that Spoils them, and if over and above that, we find there any Hot Beds for the Novelties of the Spring time, such as are Strawberries, Radishes, Little Sallets, Peas, Beans, Cabbage Lettuces, Parsly, Cucumbers, and Musk-melon Plantations, &c. If we likewise see some Fig-Trees and some other Trees forced and advanced by artificial Warmth, what then ought we not to say in praise of the Gard'ner, especially if we find the Walks and Alleys kept neat and clean, and no Garden Tools or Utensils any where neglected?

Having told you what should compose the Beauty of a Kitchen-Garden in the Month of January, I think it needless to add any Description of what makes it imperfect and disagreeable as well in that Month, as in all the rest of which I shall afterwards treat, be∣cause any Body may easily discern of himself, that 'tis just the contrary and reverse of what I have just now specified, that is to say, a want of any thing that should be in it, Negli∣gence, Slovinglyness, &c. which we are to look upon as the Monsters of Kitchen Gardens.

In the Month of February, we must certainly expect to see the beginning of a great Bustling and Activity in Garden works, we should now find the most part of those things * 1.37 flourishing, and grown pretty forward, that we told you were to be raised on Hot Beds, in the preceeding Month, and if about the latter end of the Month, the Weather appear pretty temperate, and there happen so considerable a Thaw as to promise an end of the great cold, our Gard'ners should then begin to dig and manure the Squares and the Coun∣ter Borders prepare the Cold Beds, sow those sorts of Seeds that are long coming up, as Parsly, Onions, Ciboules, Leeks, &c. They must likewise now earnestly mind the pruning of Trees, as well Dwarfs, as Wall-Trees, and palisade or nail up these last for the first time, and particularly they must take care to make Hot Beds for the replanting of Musk-melons and Cucumbers, and for little Sallets, Radishes, Cabbage-Lettuces, &c.

In March, when the Sun begins to pleasure us with both indifferent fair, and pretty long days, and nature begins visibly to grow warm and active, our Gard'ners also should * 1.38 with new and fresh vigour, and Application, bestir themselves in all parts of their Gar∣den, and be seen indefatigably to pursue all the works I have mentioned in the particular Treatise I made on that subject, and which therefore 'tis not necessary to repeat here again; so that if the extent of our Ground be great, and the number of Labourers propor∣tionable, we should have the pleasure with one cast of an Eye to see them diging, making up, sowing, planting, howing, weeding, graffing, pruning, &c. for in fine, before the Month be out, the most part of the Ground should be taken up either with Seeds or plants, which are to serve for provision for the whole year. All that was before covered with Dung, ought to be discharged of its coverings, which are now grown hidious, assoon as they cease to be necessary, and every thing ought to breath the free Air, which begins now to cheer both Animals and Plants; we should at this time have at least something to begin to

gather, either of Sallets or Radishes, of the new Season, if the Hot Beds of the foregoing Months have not as yet obliged us with that pleasure; But neatness and politeness ought particularly to glitter every where, and serve for a varnish to all the Alleys, and the dressed Grounds, that together with the first dawning of the rising Green that is now springing out of the Womb of the teeming Earth, and the perfumed breath of those Plants which Heavens richer influences have made odoriferous, and the abundance of Flowers which begin to display their beauties on every side, and the harmony of the pretty Birds, which a sort of extraordinary gayety and briskness at this time inspires with amo∣rous prattle, and with melodious Airs to strive to out-vie each other. This neatness may concurr to make a Theater of pleasure universally perfect, which may with irresistible allurements intice the curious to the divertisement of walking in so delicious a place.

In the Month of April, we are not to find any thing new to be done in our Kitchen-Gar∣dens, * 1.39 unless it be an augmentation of Hot Beds for Musk-Melons and Cucumbers. The Earth in them should now be covered almost all over with a new decoration of Infant Plants; Here we should see Artichokes rising as 'twere from the dead, and there Asparagus piercing the Ground in a thousand places; here we should with pleasure observe the Cabbage Let∣tuce wind up it self into round Balls, and here that multitude of Green Herbs, and Legumes, so different in colour, and so various in their shapes; These, these are the Innocent and natural Dainties which there present themselves for the nourishment, and Delicious entertainment of Humane kind. The Jacinth, the Tulip, the Anemone, the Ranimculus, and so many other Flowers, with what Glories do they not adorn the Gardens where they are? That which is here to be remarked, is only the ordinary main∣taining of what is already done and perfected; but that which should most take up our thoughts is the hopes of a future crop of Fruits, every one now being eager to run and view the Trees that shed their Blossoms, to see whether much Fruit knit upon them or no, or else to visit the Hot Beds of Musk-Melons and Cucumbers that seem to have taken well, to see how liberally they are like to recompence them for all the pains bestowed upon them.

When the Month of May comes in, what contentment have we not in useful * 1.40 Gardens; and how great are the sweets of enjoyment which we begin then to taste? We have now no longer occasion to demand why such and such spots of Ground are yet bare, Spanish Cardons, Collyflowers, Chard-Beets, Cellery, and even Arti∣chokes, and Cabbage Lettuces, which were not to appear so early, and for which those places were designed, coming to occupy them at the latter end of April, or beginning of this Month, and Purslain which because of the delicateness of its temper, had till now been retain'd in the Seed Closet, comes out at this time to gild the Earth, and to offer it self in abundance to pleasure its Master. The Straw-berries beginning to come now to maturity open and lead the way to the other Red Fruits which are immedi∣ately to follow after them: Green Peas are ready to satisfie the longing Appetire of the lickerish Palate. Mushrooms shoot up in Crowds; and in fine, of all the things contained in the Alphabet I have premised before this Treatise, there is hardly any but Spinage, and Mâches, that stave off the performance of their duty till August and September, for we may now see some little beginnings even of Endive, and if Hasting or Early Cherries were the first Fruit that appeared in this Month of May, the Hasting Apricocks, the Little Muscat Pears, and the Avant Peaches, or Forward Peaches will not leave them long alone to enjoy the glory of being the sole Riches and Ornaments of our Gardens, all these Fruits being now preparing themselves to appear in a very few days; the Musk-Melons likewise will not stay long behind them, &c. while the Cucum∣bers with an infinite number both of Lettuces and of other Plants, satisfie both our Palates and Necessities, as the Flowers together with the Orange-Trees, which in Mid-May we carry abroad out of their houses, perform likewise their functions in delighting both our Sight and Smell.

The parching heat of the Month of June, hinders us indeed from going into our * 1.41 Garden in the heat of the day, but what charms are there not in going to visit it Morning and Evening, when the cool breathings of a gentle Zephir reign there with Sovereign sway? Now is the Season when we may visibly perceive with our Eyes, all things to grow and thrive, and see a Branch that five or six days before, was not above a foot long, now shot out to three or four. Leeks are now planted, and squares covered with Green Herbs, compleat the tapestry; that odorns the Ground the Vine Flowers make an end of throughly embalming the air which was already all over perfumed with the grateful odour of the Straw-berries.

We gather in all parts, and at the same time with profusion distribute all those Plants that are become so beautiful and accomplish'd; we fill up the places again we had disfurnish'd, so that there hardly ever remains any part void; and nature now affects no better divertisement than to be amazing us with miracles of fertillity, so well assisted as she is, by the kindly warmth of the Father of Light; only she needs now and then the Auxiliary refreshment of convenient moisture, moisture which the propitious Clouds sometimes abundantly pour down, but which sometimes the Gard'ners Industry too is fain to supply her with in time of need. The Cold Beds and Counterborders Levelled and ad∣justed so even to a line, and so well furnish'd with Cabbage-Lettuces, what pleasure do they not afford to behold them? That forest of Artichokes of different colours which appears in a select and particular place, doth it not call out to the curious to come and admire them, and more especially to judge of their goodness and delicacy, whilst they are also passing their opinions of their beauty and abundance? The Palisades and Pole-Hedges so exquisitely well extended, and resounding with the warbling notes of chirping Birds which we pass through in going to this Kitchen-Garden, commence the pleasure of their walk, compleat it at their going back, and inspire them with a longing desire to return again with all convenient speed.

In these two Months of July and August, Kitchen-Gardens should be so richly and happily endowed with whatsoever their condition is capable of, that we may find plenty * 1.42 of all things there both to satisfie the pleasures of the present, and provide for the ne∣cessities of the future time, so that let us require of them what we please, they may be as ready to answer as we to make our Demands.

As for example have we a mind to all or any sorts of Herbs, Roots, Sallets, Perfumes, &c. They will immediately furnish us with them; have we a fancy to any Musk-Melons those chief and principal Fruits of our Climate? we may smell them a great way off, and need but follow our noses and go and visit them, and stoop and gather them; Would we have any Cucumbers, flat Pumpions, or other Pumpions or Citrulls, Mushrooms, &c. They will present us with store of them; Do our Appetites further crave after Artichokes, or Pears, Plums, Figs. &c. we may be sure to find there a considerable quantity of all those things; or, Have we a mind likewise to have any sweet and Aromatical Herbs, as Time, Sage, Savory, &c. or any relishing Plants, as Garlick, Onions, Ciboules, Leeks, Rocamboles, or Spanish Garlick, &c. There we need not fear to be supplied. Nay, the four or five next preceeding Months seem only to have laboured for these two last, so that we may expect all should go well in our Gardens in this season, if we be provided with a good Gard'ner, and which above all things, has the skill to chuse well, and Judg∣ment enough to know how and when to gather. The Carnations now are no small Or∣naments to our Gardens; and the Florists now are busie in couching their layers, and forget not to take their Bulbous Roots out of the Earth, to lay them up in places of shelter and security.

If in July and August our Kitchen-Gardens have signalized themselves by their Musk-Melons, Cucumbers, Legumes, and even by their Plums, their first Figs, and some few * 1.43 Pears, &c. we shall see that in the Months of September and October which succeed them, they will shew themselves exceedingly Glorious in the matter of Fruits which will be by the abundance of Peaches, Muscat, and Chassela's Grapes, of second Figs, and of Russelet, Butter, Verte Longue, or Long Green, and Bergamot Pears, &c. This being undoubtedly the true Season for Fruits, and the time in the whole year wherein the Country is most frequented.

That moderate temper of the Air which now keeps an agreeable Medium between the great Heat of the Dog-days newly past, and the bitter Cold that is to bring on Winter; this charming moderate temper I say, of the weather, Invites out the inhabitants of the Cities, to make a sally out to go and breath the free Air of the Countrey, and to assist at the diverting employment of the Vintage, and gathering of Fruits: And the Gardens ought now to surpass in an infinite quantity of all they were accustomed to produce in other Months, nor is it fit now to suffer one speck of Ground to lie idle. For if any square has been newly disfurnished, as for example, a Garlick Onion, or Shallot Square, &c. we should take care to fill it up presently again with Spinage, Mâches, Cheroil, Ci∣boules, &c. The same course is to be taken with some Beds of Summer Lettuces, which should be succeeded by a great number of Endive Plants, Winter Lettuces, &c. The Bulbous Roots of Flowers must now be put into the Earth again, to begin to take such new Root as may defend them against the rigours of the approaching Win∣ter.

The first White Frosts of November that make the Leaves of Trees grow Yellow, and * 1.44 loosen them from the places where they grew, that shrivel up and rot the Leaves of Endive, and of the larger Lettuces, and that Blacken the Artichoke Tops, &c. are as so many cruel, and Dreadful fore-runners, that give us warning of the approach of Winter that common and merciless Enemy of all Vegetation: And therefore we must take care early to secure in our Conservatory or store-house, all that is liable to be spoiled by the Cold without-doors, and besides, to cover with long dry Dung, that which we cannot conveniently take out of the Ground, and which yet will run great hazard of perishing without being sheltered with some covering, and so in this kind of hasty breaking up, and removing, I would have every body extraordinary busie in plying their duty, and I would advise our Gard'ner to increase the number of his Labourers, to prevent the damage he is theat'ned with. The prickle Baskets, and Hand-barrows should at this time be plyed with the greatest vigour and diligence, so that there may be always the one going thither and coming away again loaden with such things as are to be laid up or housed in the store-house or Conservatory, and the other filled with Dung, to cover that which is to be left upon the Ground. In a word, I cannot tell how to pardon those that either by imprudence or negligence, let themselves be surprized in such important occasions as this, for I would not have them indulge themselves any rest at all, till all their business be done: I would likewise have the store-house or Conser∣vatory well filled, and all things in it placed in a regular order. And I would have the whole Garden put on as 'twere another strange and new kind of cloathing, and such a Cloathing as at another time would render it ugly and disagreeable. I need not name here of what stuff it must be composed, we may smell well enough, that it must be gene∣rally of long Dung.

The Month of December, is still not without standing in need of a great deal of * 1.45 activity, for it often happens that the preceeding Month proves too short to let us finish all that should be done in it, which must therefore be made an end of in this, and that particularly if the Cold have not yet made all the havock it is capable of: We must then mind exactly to do all I have directed to be done under the head of the Works of this Month; so that we should expect to see now a great diligence used to prepare the Novelties of the following Spring; to clear the places of old Hot Beds, and to make preparation for the making of new ones with all imaginable expedition, and care taken not only to have a good provision of long Dung, and a great many Glass-Bells, but likewise to keep all the Glass-Frames in good repair, &c. And here I shall not forget to recommend to those curious persons who are blessed with the means to do it, the care to force Asparagus, and to recruit their Beds with new warmth as often as their great heat shall begin to flag. It is a work indeed of no inconsiderable pains and ex∣pence, but the pleasure to see growing in the midst of the severest Frost and Snow, abun∣dance of Asparagus, both thick, green, and every way most excellent, is great enough to take us off from grudging at our cost or trouble, and it may be truly said, that 'tis a priviledge hardly belonging to any but our King, to taste of such a pleasure as that, which is perhaps none of the least which his Versailles has afforded him by the care I have had the honour to take of it for that effect; and I may add, that 'tis certainly the only place in the world, where a Ground naturally Cold, backward and unfruitful, was ever seen to be forced to bear in the midst of the hardest Winter, what the best Grounds produce not but in temperate Seasons.

CHAP. V.

What sort of Ground is Proper to each Legume and Kitchen-Plant.

IT is certain, there are certain sorts of Grounds which want none of the good Quali∣ties required to make them produce in every Season, and for a long time together, all sorts of fair and good Legumes, supposing always, that they be reasonably well culti∣vated: And there are some that besides that, have the faculty to produce them more early some than others, and they are such Grounds as they commonly call Black Sands, in which is found an equal temper between dry and moist, accompanied with a good exposition, and with an inexhaustible Salt of fertility, rendring them easie to be entred by the spade, and to be penetrated by the rain waters: But on the other hand, it is no less certain that it is rare enough to find any of these perfect sorts of Earth, and that on the

contrary, it is very usual to meet with those that offend either in being too dry, light, and parching, or over moist, heavy and cold, or else by being unfortunately situated, as be∣ing some of them too high, some too sloping, and some again too low, and too much in a bottom. Happy are those Gard'ners that meet with those first sorts of Ground that are so admirably well disposed for Cultivation, in which they have hardly ever a∣ny bad success to fear, but commonly all manner of good Fortune to expect: on the o∣ther side unhappy, or at least much to be pitied are those whose Lot it is to have always some of the great Enemies of Vegetation to combat with, I mean, either great drought, or more especially excessive moisture, because this last, besides that it is always attended with a chilling cold that retards its productions, is likewise apt to rot the greatest part of the Plants, and consequently, it is very difficult to correct, and almost impossible en∣tirely to surmount so great a defect, but it is not altogether so difficult to qualifie a dry temper, for provided it be not extream great, and that we have the convenience of Wa∣ter to water it, and of Dung to amend and inrich it, we are Masters of two Soveraign and Infallible Remedies, which we must apply for its cure. And so by care and pains we may get the Conquest over those dry and stubborn Lands, and force them to bring forth in abundance all things we shall regularly demand of them.

It follows thence, that when we are so happy as to meet with those choice good sorts of Ground, we may indifferently both sow and plant every where in them, any sorts of Legumes or Plants whatsoever, with an assured Confidence, that they will prosper there. The only Subjection we are obliged to in such Grounds is, first, to weed much, because they produce abundance of Weeds among the good Herbs, and secondly to be of∣ten removing our Legumes, and changing their places, which is an essential point of Practice in all sorts of Gardens, it being not at all convenient to place for two or three times together, the same Vegetables in the same piece of Ground, because the Nature of the Earth requires these sorts of Changes, as being as 'twere assured in this Diversity, to find wherewithall to recruit and perpetuate its first vigour. And though in those good Grounds all things prosper admirably well, yet is it a most undoubted truth, that Southern and Eastern Expositions are here as well as every where else, more proper than those of the West and North, to forward, and improve its productions, witness Strawberries, Ha∣sting Peas, Cherries and Muscat-Grapes, &c. To balance which, these last Expositions have likewise some peculiar advantages, that make them to be esteemed in their turn; for Example, during the excessive heats of Summer, that often scorch up every thing, and make our Legumes and other plants run up too hastily to Seed, they are exempt from those violent impressions, which the Sun makes upon those places that are fully exposed to his burning Rays, and consequently our Plants will, maintain themselves longer in good plight in those situations than in the others.

It also follows from hence, that if any Person have Ground, though tolerably good, yet not of an equal goodness all over, either caused by the difference of its natural tem∣per, or situation, and sloping inclination upwards or downwards, that then I say, the skill and industry of the Gard'ner shews it self, by knowing how to allot every plant the place in which it may best come to maturity in every Season, as well in regard of for∣wardness, and sometimes of Backwardness, as of its outward Beauty, and inward per∣fection.

Generally speaking, those Grounds that are moderately dry, light, and sandy, and such as though they be a little strong and heavy, are situated on a gentle rising towards the South or West, and are backed by great Mountains, or fenced by high Walls against the Cold Winds, are more disposed to produce the Novelties of the Spring, than the strong, heavy, fat and moist Sands, but likewise on the other Hand, in Summers when there falls but little Rain, these last produce thicker and better nourisht Legumes, and require not such large and frequent Waterings, so that we may find some sort of Consola∣tion and Satisfaction in all sorts of Grounds.

However though absolutely speaking, all things that may enter into a Kitchen-Garden, may grow in all sorts of Grounds that are not altogether Barren, yet it has been obser∣ved in all times, that all sorts of Earth agree not equally with all sorts of Plants, our able Market Gard'ners in the Neighbourhood of Paris, justifie the truth of this by a most convincing Experience, for we see that such of them whose Gardens are in Sandy Grounds, seldom mind to plant in them any Artichokes, Collyflowers, Beet-Chards, Onions, Cardons, Cellery, Beet-raves or Red Beet-Roots, and other Roots, &c. as those do that have theirs in stronger and more hearty Lands, and on the contrary, these last employ not their Ground in Sorrel, Purslain, Lettuce, Endive, and other small plants that are delicate and subject to perish with Mildew, and the wet rot as do those whose Gardens are in light∣er Lands.

From all that I have asserted, there result two things, the first is, that an able Gard'∣ner which has a pretty dry or hilly Ground to cultivate with an Obligation to have of all sorts of things in his Garden, should place in the moistest parts those plants that re∣quire a little moisture to bring them to perfection, as Artichokes, Red Beet-Roots, Scorzo∣nera's, Salsisies, Carrots, Parsnips, Skirrets, Beet-Chards, Collyflowers and Cabbages, Spinage, Common Peas, Beans, Currans, Gooseberries, Raspberries, Onions, Ciboules, Leeks, Parsly, Sor∣rel, Radishes, Patience or Dock-Sorrel, Sweet Herbs, Borage Bugloss, &c. And (suppo∣sing the Provisions above specified, without which nothing will be sightly, be already planted in its other parts) he should fill up the drier parts of the same Garden with Let∣tuces of all Seasons, Endive, Succory, Chervil, Tarragon, Basil, Burnet, Mint, and other Sallet-Furnitures, and Purslain, Garlick, Shalots, Winter-Cabbages, Hot Beds of all sorts of Plants, and of little Sallets; he may likewise plant in the same places what Grapes he has a mind to, and he must place his Legumes there at moderate distances, because they grow not of so large a Size and Stature there, as in fatter places. And lastly, he must keep his Walks and Path-ways higher than his dressed Grounds, as well to draw into these latter the Rain waters that would be but unuseful and incommodious in the Walks, as to render the artificial waterings he shall be obliged to use, of the greater advantage to them, by preventing them from running out any where aside, which must be one of his principal Applications.

He must also chuse out in the same Grounds those Parts which come the nearest to the good temper between dry and moist, for the raising of Asparagus, Strawberries, Cardons, Cellery, &c. because these sorts of Plants languish with drowth in places too dry, and pe∣rish with rottenness in parts over-moist. He must place in the Borders under his Nor∣thern Walls his Alleluia's, Latter Strawberries, and Bourdelais, or Verjuice Grapes, and in the Counter-Borders of the same Northern Quarter, he may make his Nursery Beds for Strawberries, and sow Chervil all the Summer long, the North side in all sorts of Grounds, being most proper for those purposes. And as this Gard'ner should be curious of No∣velties, he ought to look upon the Banks under the Walls towards the South and East to be a marvellous and favourable shelter for the raising them; as for Example, for the procuring of Strawberries and early Peas at the beginning of May, Violets at the entrance of March, and Cabbage-Lettuces at the beginning of April. He should likewise plant in the dressed Banks next to the same Eastern and Western Walls, his Nursery of Cabbages, and sow there his Winter Lettuces, that is, Shell-Lettuces, to remain there all Autumn and Winter, till in the Spring it be time to transplant them into the places where they are to come to perfection; He should likewise plant in the Borders of the same Walls, his Passe-pierre, or Sampire, which he can hardly have by any other means, which course is to be followed in all sorts of Gardens; and in the Winter time he should likewise observe this particular caution to throw all the Snow off from the neighbouring places upon the dressed Borders of those Wall-trees, and especially those of the Eastern Quarter, both for the erecting of a Magazine, as 'twere of moisture in such places up∣on which the Rain but seldom falls, as upon those in which the violent heat of Summer is like to be of pernicious influence.

The second thing that Results from what I before laid down, is, That the Gard'ner whose Garden is in a very fat and moist Ground, must take a quite contrary method with all his Plants to that just now above mentioned; always assuring himself that those parts of it which are very moist, unless he can find means to drain and render them lighter, will be of no other use to him than to produce noxious Weeds, and consequent∣ly, that those which partake the least of that intemperature, whether by their own Nature and Situation, or by the care and industry of the ingenious Gard'ner, are always to be lookt upon as the best for all sorts of things. He must place in the driest parts most of those Plants that keep in their places for several years together, excepting Currans, Goose-berries, and Raspberry Bushes; as for Example, Asparagus, Artichokes, Strawberries, Wild Endive or Succory, &c. In other places, let him put those things which in Summer re∣quire the least time to come to perfection, viz. Sallets, Peas, Beans, Radishes, nay and Cardons, Cellery, &c. and because all things grow thick and tall in those fat and moist places, therefore he must plant his Kitchen-plants there, at greater distances one from the o∣ther, than in drier places; he must also keep his Beds and dressed Grounds, raised high∣er than his Walks and Path-ways, to help to drain out of his Grounds the Water that is so hurtful to his Plants, and for that Reason, his Beds of Asparagus, especially, as like∣wise his Strawberry and Cellery Beds, &c. no more than those of his Sallets must not be made Hollow, as those must be that are made in drier Grounds.

I have had good Success in the new Kitchen-Garden at Versailles, where the Ground is fat, viscous, and as 'twere Clayie, by raising in the midst of it, certain large squares where the frequent Rain Waters in the Summer, of the Year 1682. remained without penetrating above seven or eight Inches deep, and by having given to the said squares by the means of that elevation, a sloping descent on each side, all along the bottom of which I made at the same time some little dikes or water-courses about a foot deep, as well to sepa∣rate the squares from the Counterborders as particularly to receive the mischievous waters which by staying on the squares, otherwise would ruine all the Plants in them; which waters afterwards discharged themselves into stone gutters which I had purposely ordered to be made to carry them off. I afterwards raised most of the Counterborders in the same manner, Arch-wise, that what water might remain in them might shoot off into the sides of the walks, all along which there were other little dikes almost unperceivable, to receive those waters and convey them into the same stone gutters-newly above mentio∣ned; and I can truly affirm, that before I used this precaution, all that I had in those squares, not only of Kitchen-Plants, even to the most rustical and hardy sort of them, as Artichokes, Beet-Chards, &c. but to the very Fruit-Trees were visibly perceived to pe∣rish, the Plants with the rot, and the Trees with the Jaundice, besides which mischiefs, the winds easily threw up my Trees by the Roots, because they could hardly take any fast hold in that kind of Ground that were grown liquid and soft like new made mortar, or Pap. My forecast and diligence were a great help to me in that cas, eand I sincerely advise all those that shall have to do with places of the like difficulty, to use the same method, if they can find out no better expedient.

The reasoning by which I was induced to this way of proceeding, was this: That though the excessive quantity of water did reduce that unhappy sort of Ground to a kind of Marsh, and thereby disposed it afterwards by the operation of the great heat to grow as hard as a stone, and consequently rendred it uncapable of culture in either of those two states wet, or dry, yet I say, my reason suggested to me, that if I could hinder the first inconvenience which was the rendring of this Ground too Liquid and Marshy, it would be an infallible means to secure me against the second, which was to see them grow hard and stony, because I concluded, that if my Grounds having been once made light and loose, could be kept reasonably dry after that, as they would be if the waters were hindred from lodging in them, they would not be any more so closely glued together as to grow into any such kind of stony consistence, but would become tractable like other Lands; and accordingly I found my reasoning answered by the success which I expected.

CHAP. VI.

What sort of Culture is most proper for every particular Plant.

IT is a very considerable Advance to have settled a Garden upon a good foot at first and to have wisely employed, or at least assigned out all its parts according to the diffe∣rent Qualifications of its Ground, the goodness of its Expositions, the order of the Months, and the nature of each Plant; But that is not all, we must likewise carefully cultivate them, in such a manner as they peculiarly require.

For there is a general Culture of Kitchen-Gardens, and there is a particular Culture peculiar to each Plant. As to the general Culture, it is well enough known, that the most necessary and important points of it consist first, in well amending and mucking the Earth, whether it be naturally good or not, because Kitchen-Plants exhaust it much; secondly, in keeping it always loose and stirred, either by digging up whole Beds, to Sow or transplant in them, &c. or such other places where the spade may be employed, as for Example, among Artichokes, Cardons, &c. or by pecking and grubbing up where the closeness of the Plants to one another, will permit us to use only grubbing instru∣ments, as for Example, among Straw-berries, Lettuces, Endive, Peas, Beans, Cellery, &c. Thirdly, in watering plentifully all sorts of Plants in very Hot weather, and especially in sandy Grounds, for those that are strong and rank require not so much, always obser∣ving that in both sorts of Ground, watering is not so necessary for Asparagus, nor for borders or edgings of Time, Sage, Lavender, Hissop, Rue, Worm-wood, &c. which need but little moisture to keep them in good plight; Fourthly, it consists in keeping the

Superficies of our Ground clear of all sorts of Weeds, either by Weeding, or digging, or by only raking them over, when they have not been long dressed, so that as far as 'tis possible, the Earth may always appear as if it had been newly stirred up.

I shall not insist any longer here upon the head of the General Culture, because it is so well known to all people, but shall only declare my Opinion and the practice of able Gard'ners in that which is peculiarly to be used to each particular plant.

And I shall begin with observing to you, that among Kitchen-Plants, there are some that are Sown to remain still in the place where they were first, and others again, only to be transplanted elsewhere; that there are some that prove well both ways; some that are multiplied without Seed, some that are transplanted whole, and some that are cut to be transplanted; that there are some which for the supply of Man-kind, bear several times in a year, and that last longer than a year; others that produce but once in a year, but yet last to bear for several years after; and Lastly some again, that perish after their first production.

The Plants of the first Class, are Radishes, almost all Red Beet-Roots, Carrots, Parsnips, Skirrets, Turneps, Maches, Reponces, Scorzonera's, Salsifies, and besides them, Garlick, Chervil, Wild Endive, or Succory, Harts-Horn Sallet, Garden-Cresses, Shallots, Spinage, Beans, small Lettuce to cut, Parsly, Burnet, Cutting Beets, Peas, Purslain, &c. and the greatest part of our Sorrel, Patience or Sharp-Leav'd Dock, Onions, and Ciboulees.

The Plants of the second Class which succeed not without being transplanted, are Chard-Beets, Cellery, and the greatest part of our White Endive, both long and tied, and Cabbages, unless they be sown very thin, or be very much thinn'd after they are sown; of this Class are also Cabbages, most Musk-Melons, and Cucumbers, Citrulls or Pum∣pions, Potirons or flat Pumpions, Leeks, &c.

Those of the third Class, that is, such as may be indifferently either continued in the places where they are first sown, or transplanted elsewhere, are Asparagus, though most commonly they are sown at first in Nurseries, to be transplanted a year or two after; as also Basil, Fennel, Anis, Borage, Bugloss, Cardons, Capucin Capers or Nasturies, Ciboulees, Savory, Time, Musked Chervil, &c.

The Plants of the fourth Class that are multiplied without being sown, are Alleluia, or Wood-Sorrel, English Cives, Violets, &c. Because they grow into thick Tufts which are separated into many; Artichokes are propagated by their Eyes, Off-sets, or Slips; Mint, and Round Sorrel, Tripe Madame, Tarragon, Balm, &c. by their Layers or Branches that take Root where they touch the Earth, the two last of which have also the advan∣tage of multiplying by Seed, as likewise have the Artichokes sometimes. Straw-berries propagate by their Runners, Rasp-berries, Goose-berries, and Currans, by their Slips, or Suckers, and by their Cuttings which also take Root. Lavender, Worm-wood, Sage, Time, and Marjoram, by their Branches which take Root at their joints, and are also multi∣plied by their Seed; the common Bays, both by Layers and Seed too; Vines, and Fig-Trees, by their Suckers, Hooked Slips, and Cuttings whether Rooted or not Rooted.

In the fifth place, those Plants of which we cut off some part either of the Leaves or Roots or both at the same time, in order to transplant them, are Artichokes, Chard-Beets, Leeks, Cellery, &c. And those others whose Leaves we do not cut at all, though it be good always to trim their Roots a little to refresh them, are Endive, and Succory, most commonly, and Savory, Sorrel, &c. and all Lettuces, Alleluia or Wood-Sorrel, Violets, Basil, Arrach or Orage, Borage, Bugloss, Capucin Capers or Nasturces, Cabbages, Tarragon, Samphire, Straw-berries, Marjoram, Musk-Melons, Cucumbers, Citrulls or Pumpions, Purslain; and Radishes for Seed, &c.

The Plants that bring forth several times in a year, and yet last for some years follow∣ing, are Sorrel, Patience or Sharp Dock, Alleluia or Wood-Sorrel, Burnet, Chervil, Parsley, Fennel, all Edging, or Sweet Herbs, Wild Endive or Succory, Macedonian Parsley or Alisanders, Mint, Tarragon, Samphire, &c.

Those that produce but once in the year, but yet last bearing for several years together afterwards, are Asparagus, and Artichokes.

And Lastly, those that cease to be useful after their first production, are all Lettuces, Common Endive, Peas, Beans, Cardons, Melons, Cucumbers, Citrulls or Pumpions, Oni∣ons, Leeks, Cellery, Arrach or Orage, and all Plants whose Roots are only in use, as Red Beets, Carrots, &c.

Now to give you a particular account of the Culture that belongs to every several sort of Plant, I must tell you, that this Culture consists, first, in observing the distances they are to be placed at one from the other; second, in the Triming of such as need it;

third, in planting them in that situation, and disposition, which they require; fourth, in giving them those assistances which some of them have need of to bring them to perfection, or which are convenient for them, whether it be by typing up, or wrapping about, or Earthing up, or otherwise covering them, &c.

I begin in the ALPHABETICAL Order

A.

ALIS ANDERS: See Macedonian Parsley.

Alleluia, or Wood-Sorrel, when it grows old, grows into Tufts, and being a Plant that grows in the Woods, and consequently that loves the shade, we therefore plant it along by the sides of our Northern Walls, at the distance of about one foot between one plant and another; the more we strip it of its Leaves, which is one good quality it has, the more fresh ones it shoots forth: It is enough to set it two Inches into the Ground; it lasts three or four years without being renewed, and to renew it, we need do no more than to separate or slip out the great Tufts of it into several little ones, and replant them again immediately, which is to be done in the Months of March and April; a little watering in very Hot weather, and especially in sandy Grounds, is a very great and welcome help to them.

Anis and Fennel are commonly sown pretty thin, either in surrows, or borders; their Leaves are used in Sallets among other Furnitures. They run to Seed towards the Month of August, and when their stalks are cut down, they shoot out new Leaves the next year that are as good as the first, but however it is best to renew them every two years.

Arrach, Orrach, or Orage, is propagated only by Seed, and is both one of the quickest both in coming up, and in running to Seed, which latter it does at the very beginning of June. It is sown pretty thin, and to have good Seed of it, we must transplant some plants of it in some separate place. The Leaf of this plant is very good both in pottage, and in stuffings or farces; we use it almost as soon as it peeps out of the Earth, for it passes away very quickly; and to have some the more early, we sow a little quantity of it upon a Hot Bed: It thrives well enough in all sorts of Grounds, but yet it grows always fairer in good Grounds than in but indifferent ones.

Aromatick or sweet, or spicy Herbs such as are planted in Edgings of Borders, as Mar∣joram, Time, Sage, Rosemary, &c. See their Culture under the several Titles of each of those particular Herbs.

Artichokes, as we have already elsewhere told you, are multiplied by their Eyes, Suck∣ers, Slips, or Off-Sets, which every plant of them usually shoots out every year in the Spring, round about its old Root, and which must be taken off as soon as they are grown big enough, leaving only at each place three of the best and furthest distant one from the other. For the planting them, we commonly make little Trenches, or Pits about half a foot deep, and three foot distant one from another, and filled with Mold, and we place two rows of them regulated by a line, in each Bed, which is to be full four foot broad, and parted from the next Bed by a path-way of one full foot; these Trenches of Pits are to be made at about half a foots distance from the edge of the Bed, and Checquerwise one towards the other; we place two Slips in a right Line in each space containing between Nine and Ten Inches in Length. We must renew them once every three years at least, cut off their Leaves at the beginning of Win∣ter, and cover them with long dry dung during all the very cold weather till the end of March, when we must uncover them, and slip them, if their Slips be yet big e∣nough, or else stay three Weeks or a Month longer till they be, then we must labour and move the Earth well about them, and dung them with the rottenest part of that Dung that served them for a covering; we water them moderately once or twice a Week, till about the end of May, their Fruit begins to appear, and from that time we must wa∣ter them plentifully, that is two or three times a Week, during the whole Summer, al∣lowing half a Pitcher full of Water to each plant, and especially in Grounds naturally dry; those planted in the Spring, should bring their Fruit to perfection in Autumn fol∣lowing, if well watered, and they which do not, ought to yield their first Fruit in the next Spring after, in case they be strong enough to resist the sharpness of the Winter. Artichokes have not only the hard weather, and excess of wet to fear, but they have the Field Mice likewise for their Enemies, those mischievous little Animals gnawing their Roots in the Winter-time, when they find nothing better in the Gardens, and for that

reason, it's good to plant one Rank of Beet-Chards between two Ranks of Artichokes, that the Field-Mice finding the Roots of these last the tendrer of the two, may fall up∣on them instead of the others, as they never fail to do. There are three sorts of Arti∣chokes, viz. the green, or otherwise white ones, which are the most early, the violet ones, whose Fruit is almost of a pyramidal Figure, and the red ones which are round, and flat like the white ones. The two last sorts are the most delicious.

Artichoke Chards. See Chards.

Asparagus are sown at the beginning of the Spring like other Seeds, that is, they are sown in some Bed well prepared; they must be sown indifferent thin, and raked with an Iron Rake, to cover them with Earth. About a year after, if they be big enough, as they will be, if the Ground be good, and well prepared; or if not, at least at two years end, we must tranplant them, which is to be done about the end of March, and all the Month of April; and for that effect we must have Beds between three and four foot broad, and separated one from the other; if it be in ordinary Ground, we dig these Beds hollow with a good Spade, throwing up the Earth we take out of them upon the Path-ways; and as to strong, heavy and moist Grounds, I would have them ordered as I have done the Kitchen-Garden at Versailles, that is to say, I would not have the Beds in them at all laid hollow, but on the contrary, raised and kept higher than the Path-ways, too much wet being mortal to these Plants. Asparagus thus sown shoot out Tufts of Roots round about their Eye, or Mother Root; that is to say, round the place from whence all their shoots are to Spring, which Roots spread between two Earths, and in order to transplant them either into a hollow Bed, or a high raised Bed, we bestow a good tho∣rough Tillage on the bottom of the Trench, and if the Ground be not very good, we dung it a little, and afterward we plant two or three stocks of these young Plants, or∣derly in ranks upon the Super••icies of the Bed prepared for them, without needing to trim the extremity of their Roots, or at least, but a very little, and if our intention be, to force these Asparagus by an artificial heat, when they are grown big enough, we place them at a foot distance one from the other, and if they be to remain to grow after the usual manner, we allow them at a foot and a half's distance, but in both Cases, we place them Checquerwise, and when they are so placed, we cover them up again with two or three Inches depth of Earth: if any of them fail to Spring up, we may reimplace them with new ones two or three Months after, which is to be done in the same man∣ner as we planted the others, only taking care to water the new planted ones sometimes during the great heat, and to keep them always well weeded, and well dug about, or else we mark out with little sticks the empty places, and stay till the Spring before we fill them up again. Every year we cover the Bed with a little Earth taken off from the Path-way, because instead of sinking, they always are rising by little and little: we dung them moderately every two years, and let them shoot up the first three or four years without gathering any, till we see them begin to grow pretty thick, and then we may force as many as we please of them, or if not, we continue to gather of them every year a crop for fifteen years, before we need to renew them. Every year about Martle∣mas, we cut down all their stems, every stock producing several stems, and take the seed of the fairest of them for Seed, if we would have them come to bear at the time above-mentioned. To draw them out of their Nursery-Beds, we use an Iron Fork, the Spade be∣ing too dangerous for that work, because it would cut, and hurt those little Plants.

We must not fail every Year at the latter end of March, or beginning of April, that is, before the Asparagus begin to sprout naturally, to bestow a small dressing or stirring of the Ground about three or four Inches deep, on every Bed, taking care not to let the Spade go so deep, as to hurt the Plants; which small dressing serves, both to kill the Weeds and to render the Superficies of the Earth loose, and thereby not only the better to dispose it to drink up the Rain, and the May-dew that nourishes the Stocks, but likewise to facilitate the passage of the Asparagus in sprouting. The particular and most dreadful Enemies of Asparagus are a sort of little Fleas, that fasten upon their shoots, make them miscarry, and hinder them from thriving; they are most troublesome in ve∣ry hot and dry years, not appearing at all in other years; there has been no Remedy found yet against this mischief.

B.

BAlm, called in French Melisse, is an Odoriferous Herb, whose Leaf when tender, makes a part of Sallet-Furnitures. It is multiplyed both by Seed, and by rooted Branches, like Lavender, Time, Hyssop, &c.

Basil is an annual Plant, that is very delicate. We seldom sow it but upon Hot Beds, and not in open Ground, as we do Purslain, Lettuce, &c. We begin to sow some in that manner at the very beginning of February, and we may continue so to do the whole year. Its tender Leaves are mixed in a small quantity, with the Furnitures of Sallets, among which, they make an agreeable perfume; It is likewise used in Ragou's, especially dry ones, for which reason, we take care to keep some for Winter. We gather its Seed in the Month of August; and usually to make it run to Seed, we transplant it in the Month of May, either in Pots, or Beds. There are several sorts of it, but that which bears the biggest Leaves, and especially if they incline to a Violet Colour, and that which bears the least Leaves, are the two most curious; that which produces midling ones, being the ordinary or Common sort.

The Common Bays, or Bay-Tree, is a shurb of no very great use in our Gardens, and therefore it is enough to have some few Plants of it in some well sheltered place, to gather some Leaves of them when occasion requires.

Beans, as well those of the Common, and Garden sort, as those called Kidney-Beans, and French-Beans, and in French, Aricôs, are sown in open Ground, and grow not other∣wise; The Aricô French, or Kidney-Beans, are sown about the latter end of April, and all the Month of May, and are very sensible of the Frost; The Common Garden Beans are sown at the same time with Hasting-Peas, both in November, and in Febru∣ary.

Hot Beds. See the Works in November.

Bete-raves, or Red Beet-Roots, are annual Plants propagated only by Seed, and are seldom transplanted. They are sown in the Month of March, either in Beds or Borders. They must be sown very thin, or at least if they come up too thick they must be very much thinned, or else they will not grow so fair and large as they should be. They require a very good, and well prepared Ground: They are the best that have the Reddest substance and the Reddest Tops: They are not good to spend till towards the end of Autumn, and all the Winter Season. To have Seed of them, we transplant in March some of the last years Roots that we have preserved from the Frost, their Seed is gathered in the Months of August and September.

White, or Chard-Beets: See Chards.

Borage and Bugloss, grow and are to be ordered in the same manner as Arrach, only they come not up so vigorously. We sow of them several times in the same Summer, because their Leaves, in which consists all their excellence, are good only whilst they are tender, that is, while they are young. Their little Violet Colour'd Flowers serve to adorn Sallets. Their Seed falls assoon as 'tis ripe, and therefore must be carefully watch'd: The surest way is to cut down the stalks, and lay them a drying in the Sun, assoon as ever the Seeds begin to ripen, and by that means we shall lose but very few.

Bourdelai's, otherwise called Verjuice, as well the White, as Red sort, is a kind of Vine which is pruned, and slipt, or layed, and graffed and planted as other Vines are in the Months of January, February, and March. Care must be taken to tie up its Branches, either to props, or some sort of trail, about the middle of June at latest, or else the wind destroys it quite: We must also pick and pluck off the weak and unprofitable Branches of these Vines; and when we prune them, 'tis enough to leave two, three, or four fair Branches at most upon each stock, and to keep them not above three or four buds long, every one of which usually shoots forth one bearing Branch, with three or four fair Bunches of Grapes upon each Branch. My practice is in all sorts of Vines, but par∣ticularly in the Muscat or Musked sorts, to keep the lower Branches shorter by two buds, than the highest, to keep the Plant always low, when I would not have them mount up upon a Trail.

Buckshorn-Sallet: See Hartshorn-Sallet.

Burnet, called in French Pimprenelle, or Pimpernelle, is a very Common and ordinary Sallet furniture, which is seldom sown but in the Spring, and is sown thick either in Beds or Borders.

It often Springs afresh after cutting, of which the youngest shoots must be chosen for Sallets, the Leaves that are any thing old being too tough. It does it a great deal of good to water it in Summer. There is but one sort of it whose Seed is gathered at the end of Summer.

C.

CAbbages of all sorts of Kitchen-Plants take Root again the easiliest when transplanted, as they are likewise the most known, and most used of any in our whole Gardens. They are multiplied by Seed, and are of several sorts and Seasons. There are some called White, or headed Cabbages, which are for the service of the latter end of Summer, and for Autumn. There are some Curled, called Pancaliers, and Milan Cabbages, which produce small headed Cabbages, for Winter; there are some of a Red or Violet Colour; and some called long sided Cabbages, whereof some are Bright or White, and very delicate, ripe in Vintage time, and others Green, and are not very good till they be Frost-bitten. Lastly, there are some called Choux Fleurs, i. e. Cabbage Flowers, and by the English Collyflowers, which are the most noble and valuable of them all, and are not used in pottage, but in choice intermesses; they cannot endure the Frost, and therefore assoon as they begin to form their heads, they must be covered with their Leaves tied up for that end over them, with Straw bands, to guard them from the insults of the Cold that spoil and rot them. They are for our Winter spending, and must be sheltred in the Green house or Conservatory, whither they must be carried and there planted with a turf of their old Earth, about them, where they commonly are used to perfect the full growth of their heads. All other Cabbage-Plants yield Seed in France, but only these, whose Seed we are fain to have brought up from the Eastern Countries, which makes them ordinarily very dear. To make Cabbages run to Seed, we use every year either in Autumn or Spring to transplant some of the best and fairest of them, which run to Seed in the Months of May and June, that is gathered in July and August.

You are by the way to remark two things; The first is, that all thick Plants that run to Seed, and grow pretty high, as Cabbage, Leeks, Ciboules, Onions, Red Beet-Roots, Car∣rots, Parsnips, Cellery, &c. must be supported either with upright props, or cro••s sticks, to hinder the wind from breaking down their stems before the Seed be Ripe.

The second is, that we seldom stay to let any Seeds dry upon their Plants as they stand, it being enough to let them only Ripen, when we cut down their stems, and lay them to dry upon some Cloth, after which, we beat them out, and fan and cleanse them and lay them up when they are fully dry: And thus we do with the Seeds of Cresses, Chervil, Parsley, Radishes, Borage, Bugloss, &c.

Ordinary Capers grow upon a sort of small Shrub that is raised in niches made purposely in well exposed Walls, for that end, which are filled with Earth to nourish the Plants; and every year in the Spring we prune their Branches, which afterwards shoot out buttons or swelling buds, which are pickled up in Vinegar to be used in Winter, either in Sallets, or in pottage.

Capucine-Capers, or Nasturces, are annual Plants which are usually sown in Hot Beds, in the Month of March, and transplanted again in the naked Earth along by some Walls, or at the foot of some Trees, where their mounting stalks which are but weak, and grow pretty high may take some hold, to support themselves. They are also planted in Pots, and Boxes, in which some sticks are set up to support their stalks. Their Buttons or round Buds before they open, are good to pickle in Vinegar. Their Flower is pretty large of an Orange Colour, and very agreeable. They must be carefully watered in the Summer, to make them shoot vigorously, and so long time as they should. Their Seed falls to the Earth assoon as ever 'tis ripe, as well as that of Borage and Bugloss, and therefore must be carefully gathered up.

Caprons, are a sort of large Straw-berries, not over delicate, which ripen at the same time as those of the better kind. Their Leaves are extraordinary large, velveted and of a darkish Green Colour. They are little to be prized, and are found in the Woods as other Straw-berries are.

Spanish Cardons or Cardoons, grow only from Seed. They are sown at two several times.

The first is commonly about the middle, or latter end of April, and the second, at the beginning of May.

They must be sown in good and well prepared Ground, and in little Trenches or pits a full foot wide, and about six Inches deep, filled with Mold. We make Beds of four or five foot wide, in order to place in them two ranks of those little Trenches or pits checker-wise. We put five or six Seeds in every hole, with intention to let but two or three of them grow, if they all come up, taking away those that are over and above that

number, either to throw away, or to new stock those places where there perhaps are none come up, or where we may have sown some few upon a Hot Bed for that intention. And if in fifteen or twenty days we do not see the Seed come up, we should uncover them, to see whether they be rotten, or begin to sprour, that so we may fill up their places with new ones in case of need. The Seeds of the first sowing are generally three weeks coming up, and those of the second fifteen days. Cardons must not be sown before the middle of April, for fear they should grow too big, and run to Seed in August and September, and then they are not good. Great care must be taken to water them well; and when towards the end of October, we have a mind to whiten them, we take the advantage of some dry day, first to tie up all their Leaves with two or three bands, and some days after, we cover them quite up with Straw or dry Litter well twisted about them, so that the Air may not penetrate to come at them, except it be at the very top, which we leave open.

These Cardoon Plants thus wrapt up, whiten in about fifteen days or three weeks, and grow fit to Eat. We make an end of tying up, and wrapping, or covering all that we have in our Gardens, when we perceive the Winter approach, and then we take them up with the Earth about them, to transplant them in our Green House, or Con∣servatory: Some of those Plants are good to transplant in the naked Earth in the following Spring, to run to Seed in June, or July, or else some Plants of them tied up in their first places, will serve for that three or four times together.

Carrots are a sort of Root, whereof some are White, and others Yellow, that grow only from Seed, and require the same care and ordering which we have already described under the head of Red Beet-Roots.

Cellery, is a sort of Sallet produced by Seed, and is not good but at the end of Autumn, and during the Winter Season. We sow of it two several times, to be supplied with it so much the longer, because that which has been long sown, easily runs to Seed, and grows hard. We sow it then the first time upon Hot Beds in the beginning of April, and because its Seed is so extream small, we cannot help sowing it too thick, so that if we be not careful to thin it, and crop it in time, to make it grow to some strength and bigness before we transplant it, it warps and flags its head too much, and grows weak, and shoots its Leaves straglingly outward, instead of producing store of them from the middle of its stock. The surest way is to transplant it in a Nursery Bed, placing the Plants two or three Inches one from another, for which we make holes with our fingers only; we transplant that which comes of the first sowing at the beginning of June, and sow our second sowing, at the latter end of May, or beginning of June, but 'tis in open Beds, and we take the same care to thin, crop, and transplant this, as we did that of the first sowing, but we must plant more of it the second time, than at the first. There are two ways of transplanting it; the one is in a Pit or Trench one full spit deep, and between three and four foot broad, in order to place in it three or four ranks of these Plants at the distance of one foot from one another: This way of making hollow Beds Earth up our Cellery in, is good only in dry Grounds, wet ones being too apt to rot, it. The second way of transplanting it, is in plain Beds that are not made hollow, and at the same distances as in the other, taking care in both sorts of Beds to water them ex∣treamly in Summer time, its chief goodness consisting in being tender, as well as in being very White. Watering contributes to the first kind of goodness, and for the second, you are to observe, that to Whiten Cellery, we begin at first to tie it with two bands when it is big enough, chusing dry weather for that effect, and afterward we Earth our Cellery Plants quite up, with Earth taken off the high raised path-ways, or else cover it all over with a good quantity of long dry Dung, or dry Leaves, as we do Cardoons. Cellery so Earthed up with dry Earth, or Clothed with long dry Dung, or dry Leaves, to the very top of its Leaves, Whitens in three weeks or a Month, and because when 'tis Whi∣ted, it rots as it stands, if it be not presently eaten, by consequence, we are not to Earth it up, or cover it with Dung, but in such proportion as we are able to spend out of hand; there needs no other precaution to be used to it so long as it does not freeze; but as soon as ever it begins to set to freeze, we must then cover up our Cellery quite over head and ears, for a hard Frost spoils it presently. And that we may the more easily cover it, after we have first tied it up with two or three bands, we take it up with the Earth about it, at the beginning of Winter, and plant it in another Bed, setting the Plants as close as we can one to another, and then there needs much less stuff to cover them, than when they are left standing in their old places at such great distances asunder. The way to raise Seed from them, is, to transplant some Plants of them in some by-place, after Winter is past, which will not fail to run to Seed in the Month of August, we know but one sort of it.

Chards of Artichokes, otherwise called Costons, are the Leaves of fair Artichoke Plants tied, and wrapt up with Straw in Autumn and Winter, which being covered up all o∣ver but at their very top, with Straw, grow white, and by that means, lose a little of their bitterness, so that when they are boiled, they are served up like true Spanish Cardons, but after all, are not so good, and besides the Plants often rot and perish whilst we are whiting them.

Chard-Beets are Plants of white Beets transplanted in a well prepared Bed, at the di∣stance of a full foot one from the other, which produce great Tops, that in the middle have a large white, and thick downy Cotton-like Main shoot, and that downy Cotton-like shoot is the true Chard used in Pottages and Intermesses. After we have sown white Beets upon Hot Beds, or in the naked Earth, in the Month of March, we transplant that which is yellowest in Beds purposely prepared, and by taking care to water them well during the Summer, they grow big and strong enough to resist the hard winter cold, provided care be taken to cover them with long dry Dung, just as we do Artichokes. They are likewise well placed, when two Ranks of them are transplanted between two Ranks of Artichokes. We uncover them in April, and dress the Earth about them, and give them careful attendance, and by the means of this diligent Culture, they produce those fine Chards we have in the Rogation Season, and in the Months of May and June; in fine, they run to Seed, which we gather in the Months of July and August, to sow in the following Spring.

The Chassela's is a very good and sweet sort of Grape, of which there are two kinds, white and Red, and this latter is very scarce and rare, but the other very common. It requires the good Expositions of the South, East and West, to be so much the yellower, the more firm and crackling, the better; It is of all Grapes that which keeps lon∣gest, if it be not suffered to grow too ripe upon the Vine before it be gathered. Its Culture which consists in pruning it, is the same with that of the Bourdelais or Verjuice Grape.

Musked Chervil is one of our Sallet-Furnitures, and at the beginning of the Spring, whilst its Leaves are young and tender, it is agreeable, and proper to contribute towards the giving a perfuming Relish, but they are to be used no longer when they are old and tough. It remains several Years in its place without being spoiled by the Frost, so that its Stock grows pretty big and high: it runs to Seed towards the Month of June, and by that is multiplyed.

Ordinary Chervil is an annual Plant, or rather a plant of few Months, which serves for many Uses, and especially in Sallets, when it is young and tender, and therefore we ought to see a little of it every Month proportionably to the occasions we have for it, and to the quantity of Ground we have. It runs very easily to Seed, and if we have some of it betimes, we must sow it about the end of Autumn, and doubtless we shall have the Seed quite ripe towards the middle of June following; we cut down the stalks as soon as it begins to grow yellow, and beat it out as we do that of other Plants.

Chicons are a sort of Lettuces to tie up; see their Culture under Lettuces. Cibouls or Chibouls, properly speaking, are but Onions that are degenerated, and of which Nature has as 'twere miscarried, that is to say, Onions that instead of producing a thick Root in the Earth, and one single stem, produces but a small Root, and several Stems, or upright Shoots, and those which produce most of them, are most esteemed, which are the sort of which we should be most careful to preserve Seed, and which if planted in March will yield us Seed fit to gather in August. We sow Cibouls almost every Month in the Year, except in very hard Weather, when the Earth cannot be cultivated; their Seed is so per∣fectly like that of Onions, that they cannot be distinguisht one from the other, but the former never recover so as to produce Onions, and particularly those we pluck up out of the Onion Beds, which are sown too thick, and must be thin'd, that those which are left, may grow the bigger. We thin our Cibouls also for the same, and we transplant some which prosper very well, and grow big when they are so transplanted. It is conveni∣ent sometimes to water our Ciboul Beds in Summers that prove extraordinary dry, and un∣less in such cases, they will not need watering, but however they must be always planted in good Earth.

English Cives, otherwise called Appetites, are multiplied by producing thick Tufts, which are slipt out and separated into many little ones, and are transplanted nine or ten Inches asunder, either in Borders or Beds; they require pretty good Ground, with which if they be accommodated, they will last three or four years without removing, without needing any great culture; it being enough to keep them well weeded, and to water them some∣times

during the great heat. It is their Leaves only, that are used for one of the Sallet Furnitures.

Citrulls or ordinary Pompions, Pumpions, or Pumkins, and Potirons, or flat Pumpions, as every body knows, are the biggest productions the Earth brings forth in our Climates, for whose culture there is little to be done; usually we sow them in Hot Beds towards the middle of March, that being the only way to preserve and multiply them, and at the end of April, we take them up with the Earth about them, to transplant them in holes made for that purpose, of about two foot diameter, and one foot deep, and two Toises or Fathoms asunder one from the other, which are filled with mold; when their Vines begin to grow five or six foot long, which happens about the beginning of June, we throw upon them in the middle of that length some shovels full of Earth, both to prevent their being broken by the winds driving them to and fro, and to make them take root at the place so covered, by which means the Fruit that grows beyond that part, will be the better nourished and consequently grow the bigger: There are two sorts of Citruls or Pumpions, the Green, and the Whitish ones, but neither of them are sit to be gathered till they be Augusted, that is till they be grown Yellow, and their skin grown tough enough to resist ones nail. We keep of them in our store-houses, till about the middle of Lent, when they have been seasonably gather'd, and well defended from the Cold: All sorts of situation in the open Air agree with them well enough, but yet they which are well exposed ripen sooner than the others; we trim nothing off from them, but only content our selves with watering them sometimes when the Summers are excessive dry. Their Seed is found in their Bellies.

Coleworts and Collystowers are included under Cabbage.

Costons of Artichokes: See Chards.

Garden Cresses, is one of the little Sallet Furnitures, and is a Plant that lasts but a little while. We sow of it every Month as we do Chervil, that we may have always some of it that is tender; and we sow it very thick. It is propagated only by Seed, which it is very apt to run to, and which we begin to gather at the end of June, cutting down the stalks in order to dry them, and beat out the Seeds and winnow them as we do those of other Plants, assoon as we perceive any of them to ripen.

Cucumber: See their culture under the head of Melons, and Musk-Melons. It is to be observed, that a Cucumber Plant yields a great quantity of Fruit, and for a long time, when 'tis well cultivated, and especially when 'tis well watered.

Currans and Goose berries, both being comprehended under the French name Groseilles, both the Red and White, or Pearled sort, termed in English, Currans, and the prickly sort, called in English, Dutch Goose-berries, are kinds of little Fruit shrubs, which yield a great deal of Fruit. They produce round about their old stock, a great number of rooted suckers or slips, which serve to propagate them, besides which their Branches and espe∣cially the young ones that are cut off from them, take root easily. They are planted in the Month of March, at the distance of at least six good foot one from the other, either in whole Beds, or squares, or in the void spaces between the Dwarf-Trees which are usually planted about the squares of Kitchen or Fruit-Gardens. Both of them delight in a Ground that is a little moist, the better to enable them to produce thick shoots, and consequently good Fruit.

The Red and Pearled, or White sort, called in English Currans produce Bunches, which are Ripe in July, but the prickly ones, named in English, Goose berries, produce none, but bear their Fruit upon single stalks all along the young Branches of the preceeding years growth, and that at the place of every one of the Eyes or Buds of that Branch. The Fruit of this latter is used particularly in March and April, in Compôtes or wet sweet-meats, and sauces, for which uses it must be very Green, for when it is Ripe, it grows too soft and flat. The culture that is most proper to be used to both Currans and Goose-berries, and especially to the Currans, consists in cutting away all their old wood, and preserving only that of one and two years growth: for a confused mixture of one with the other, is not only very indisagreeable and pernicious, but the old Branches will bear nothing but very small Fruit, till at last they quite degenerate, so that they will bear none but small, common, and very crabbed sowre Currans or Goose-berries, and assoon as the old stocks have done bearing any longer either fair Branches or good Fruit, we should take a Re∣solution utterly to grub them up, after we have first raised a plantation of new ones in some other choice fresh piece of Ground, to supply their places; for a Garden ought by no means to be without fair Currans and Goose-berries, and assoon as ever the new ones begin to bear, we are to destroy the old ones, which make but a very unsightly figure in a Garden.

D.

SHarp Dock, or Dock-Sorrel, or Patience, properly speaking, is but a sort of very great or large Sorrel, which is very sower. We content our selves only with some borders, or perhaps, some one single Bed of it, to have some of its Leaves to mix now and then among our Sorrel. The manner of raising it is the same we practise with Sor∣rel.

E.

ENdive is a sort of very good annual Plant used in Sallets, and in our pottage in the Autumn and Winter Seasons, provided it be well whitened, and consequently tender and delicate; it is multiplied only by Seed. There is the Common or Garden Endive, and wild Endive, called also Succory, the common name in French to them both. The Common Endive is of several kinds, viz. The White, which is the most delicate, and the Green sort which is the most rustical, and best able to resist the Cold, as likewise the Curled sort, and that which is not Curled.

All sorts of them agree tolerably well with all kinds of Ground. We seldom begin to sow any of them till towards the middle of May, and then they must be sown very thin, or be very much thinned, aftewards in order to be whitened in the places where they first grow, without transplanting, and we also sow but a little quantity of them at once, because they are too apt to run to Seed: The season for sowing a greater quantity of them is at the latter end of June, and during the whole Month of July, in order to have some good for spending in September, and we afterwards sow a great deal of it again in August, that we may have a sufficient provision of it to supply us all the rest of Autumn, and the first part of the Winter. When our Endive comes up too thick, we cut it, or else pull up some of it, to thin it, that the rest may grow big enough to be transplanted; and when we transplant any of it in Summer time, it must be placed at the distance of a large foot between Plant and Plant; we usually make great Beds of five or six foot broad, in order to transplant them afterwards in rows markt out strait with a cord. This Plant requires great and frequent waterings; and when 'tis big enough we must go to work to whiten it, for which effect, we tie it up with two or three bands according as its height requires; and being so tied, it whitens in fifteen, or twenty days: But because it is very apprehensive of the Frost, therefore assoon as ever the Cold begins to come on, we cover it with long dry Dung, whether it be tied up or no: At the end of September, we plant the stocks of it pretty near together because then it grows neither so high, nor spreads so much as in Summer: And if we can save any Plants of it in Winter, we must transplant them again in the Spring in order to produce Seed that may have sufficient time to ripen. Those persons that have a good Conservatory or Green house, will do well to house it up there, but they which have none must be content to cover it up well with a good quantity of long dry Dung, so that the Frost may not come at it.

Wild Endive, or Succory is sown at the very beginning of the Month of March, and that pretty thick, and in Ground well prepared. We endeavour to fortifie it, and make it grow big all Summer, by watering, and cropping it that it may be fit to whiten in Winter.

There are some People that will eat it Green in Sallets though it be never so bitter, but commonly they rather desire it whitened: And to whiten it, we cover it up with a great deal of long Dung, after we have first cut it close to the Earth, by which means, it been forced to spring up in obscurity, and shaded from all light, its young shoots grow White and tender. The neatest way is by the interposition of some props crossing from side to side, to keep the Dung from touching it, since it shoots up in the same manner under such a hollow covering as under a close one, so that care be taken, so well to stop up passages on all sides, that no light or Air at all get in. Being thus ordered, its shoots are much cleanlier, and relish not so much of the Dung. They which have Conservatories may transplant some of it thither in Winter, it sprouting well enough there, when it is but a little obscurely placed. When it is Green it endures the Frost well enough, and at the very latter end of May, it runs to Seed. Many People eat its young shoots in Sallets when they are young and tender.

F.

FEnnel is one of our Sallets Furnitures which grows only from Seeds, and is seldom transplanted. It resists the Cold of Winter. We sow it either in Beds or Borders. It springs again, when cut. Its youngest and tendrest shoots are the best. Its Seed is gathered in August; and in fine it agrees well enough with all sorts of Grounds. See more of it under Anis.

Furnitures, which are Mint, Tarragon, Samphire, &c. See their culture under the several titles of those Plants that compose them.

G.

GArlick is propagated by heads, or kernels called Cloves, about the end of February which are set three or four Inches deep in the Ground, and at three or four Inches distance one from the other. They are taken out of the Earth at the end of July, and laid to dry in a place free from moisture, in order to preserve them from one year to another.

Goose-berries: See Currans.

H.

HArtshorn or Buckshorn Sallet, is a little annual Plant whose Leaves when tender, are used in Sallet Furnitures they are sown in March very thick, it being impossible to sow them thin, because their Seeds are so very small which are gatherad in the Month of August. The little Birds are very greedy of them, as they are of all other small Kitchen Plant Seeds. When the Leaves of this Plant are cut, there spring up fresh ones, as do al∣so from Sorrel, Cives, Parsley, &c.

Fine, or Sweet Herbs: See Aromaticks.

L.

LAvender serves to garnish borders in Kitchen-Gardens, and yields a Flower which with∣out being separated from its stalks, is used to put among clean Linen to perfume it. It is multiplied both by Seed, and by its Branches or Slips which have taken Root at their joints.

Leeks are sown at the end of Winter, and that pretty thick, and in Beds well prepared, after which during the whole Month of June, we take them up neatly and transplant them into other Beds which are no less carefully prepared; in order to which, we make with a planting stick, holes about four Inches deep, and half a foot asunder, and after we have a little trimmed both their Roots and Leaves, we only slide down a single Plant into every hole, without minding to press down the Earth about it, as we do to all other Plants; however we take care to grub up the Weeds about them from time to time, and to water them a little in very dry weather, that their stems may grow to a due thickness, and may whiten before Winter; when the Frost is very brisk, it is best to cover them, or else, to set them into Earth in the Conservatory; it is likewise very conve∣nient, to take them up out of their Bed where they are planted a little at large, and to place them nearer together afterwards in another Nursery Bed, and cover them up with long Litter, because otherwise when it freezes hard, we should not be able to get them out of the Ground without breaking them. We may leave some of them standing after Winter, to run to Seed, or else we may Plant some in a separate place for that purpose. Their Seed is gathered in August, and there is one sort that is bigger than the ordinary one, which is the best.

Lettuces are Plants that are the most ordinarily and commonly seen in our Kitchen-Gardens, and are indeed the most useful Manna of them, and especially for Sallets, of which almost all the World is most constantly amorous. We have many things; for in the first place, there are Lettuces of different Seasons, those which are good in certain Months in the year being not good in others; and those which grow well in the Spring, thriving not well in Summer; and they which prosper in Autumn and Winter, coming tonothing, nei∣ther in Spring nor Summer, as will be seen afterwards: In the second place, there are some that with the ordinary help of the general culture attain their due perfection, and contri∣bute both to the nourishment and pleasure of Man-kind, and they are the Cabbage Lettuces.

Thirdly, there are some that necessarily require the Art of Industry and the Gard'ner to advance them to that degree of perfection which they should have; and they are such as must be tied up to make them grow white, without which they would be neither tender, nor sweet, nor good; such as are the Roman Lettuces, &c. Nay, and I have thought fit sometimes to tie up those that were to cabbage, when I saw they did not cab∣bage soon enough, by which means they may be forced to cabbage whether they will or no. I use this Method particularly with some sorts of Winter Lettuces, that is, when there are any of them which though furnished with leaves big enough to cabbage, yet for want of sufficient heat, are hindred from turning, that is from growing hard; and this expedient is a very soveraign Remedy against that Defect, in a surly Season; and besides these general distinctions, the number of the particular Kinds of Lettuces is greater than of any other sort of Kitchen-plants whatsoever, as will appear more especially by the order they observe in respect of the Seasons; and the order of the Cabbage-Lettuces, as near as I can describe it, is this.

The first that cabbage at the going out of Winter, are the Shell Lettuces so call'd, because their Leaf is round almost like a Shell. They are otherwise called Winter-Lettu∣ces, because they pretty well indure ordinary Frosts, which none of all the other Lettu∣ces can do. These are sown in September, and afterward transplanted in some Wall-Border towards the South and East, in the Months of October and November, or else they are sown upon Hot Beds under Bells, in the Months of February and March, and are good to eat in April and May. We have at the same time another sort of Reddish Lettuces called Passion Lettuces, which prosper very well in light Grounds, but not over well in others that being colder and stronger or heavier, easily infect them with slimy Snivel. Both these kinds should when they thrive, produce very thick and good Heads. To these succeed the Bright curled Lettuces, which usually cabbage in the Spring, that is before the heat grows any thing excessive, but they must not be planted in strong and heavy Lands. They likewise do well enough upon a Hot Bed, and especially under Glass Bells or Frames; for when they are sown in January, and transplanted as soon as they are grown any thing thick, or else left thin upon their Nursery-Beds, they cabbage as soon as the Winter-Let∣tuces, and are very excellent.

There is about the same Season, two other sorts of Curled Bright Lettuces; viz. one called George Lettuces, which are thicker and less curled than the ordinary Curled Bright Lettuces; and another called the Minion Lettuce, which is the least sort. Both these last require such Ground as we term good black Sand, but yet their Heads seldom cabbage close enough, that is to say, are not ordinarily so hard and firm as those of the right Curled Bright Let∣tuces.

The Curled Green Lettuces come in near about the same Season with the preceeding ones, but are not so tender nor delicate.

There is also a sort of small red ones, and another named Short Lettuces, both which have all the necessary qualifications of good Lettuces, excepting only that their Heads are small, and that they likewise require Black Sandy Ground.

The first Lettuces supply us amply as I have said, during the Months of April and May, and the beginning of June, but after that time they are too apt to be influenced to run to Seed by the great heat that then comes on. They are followed during the rest of June, and all the Month of July, by those called the Royal Bellegardes, or Fair Looks, Bright Genua's, Capucins, Aubervilliers, and Perpignans; of which last, there are both green and bright, both of which produce very fair and very good heads, and thrive well enough in strong Grounds too, when the Summer proves not too Rainy; but cold, or too frequent Rains infect them with Slime and Snivel, and consequently destroy them. The Capucin Lettuces are reddish, cabbage easily, even without transplanting, and are pretty delicate. The Aubervilliers bring forth Heads that are too hard, and sometimes bitter withall, and are more used for boiling than for Sallets. The difference that appears between the Royal and the Bellegardes or Fair look'd Lettuces, is only, that the former are a little more Greenish, and these last a little Brighter.

However in the Summer time, the tied Lettuces are mixed among the cabbaged ones, viz. the Roman Lettuces which are open, and are called Chicons, or Bright, and are termed Al∣phanges, which last are more delicate than the Chicons, both to raise, and when they are eaten in Sallets. There are also a sort which are stiled Imperial Lettuces, which are of an ex∣traordinary great Size, and are likewise very delicate to the taste, but very apt to rot as soon as ever they grow white; there are besides, a certain kind of large Reddish Chi∣••••••s, which whiten in a manner of themselves without tying, and are good in course Grounds, and succeed usually pretty well in Summer, for as for the green Chicons, we

cannot well have them but in the Spring, because they run too hastily to Seed. The Lettuces that defend themselves best from the great heat that predominates about the end of July, and all the Month of August, are those we call Genua Lettuces, and especially the green sort, for the Bright Genua, and Red Genua run more easily to Seed, and will hardly come to good but in light Grounds. We should therefore prepare a great many of these green Genua's against the Dog-days, and the first Frosts; we may also intermix with them some few Bright, and some Red Genua's; but more especially we should be sure to mix with them some Alfanges, and a great quantity of bright or white Endive, as likewise, a great many Perpignan Lettuces, both of the bright and green kind. The great Inconveniencies that happen to Cabbage Lettuces, are first, that they often degene∣rate so far as to cabbage no more, which is discovered by their Leaves growing out in length like a Cat's Tongue, as Gard'ners term it, or by their changing their natural colour into another more or less green; and therefore we must be very careful to gather no Seed from any but such as cabbage very well, for which effect, we should be sure to mark out at first, some of those that turn best, in order to reserve them to run to Seed where they stand, or to remove them with a turf of the Earth about them into some separate place assigned for that purpose.

The second is, that as soon as the most part of them are cabbaged, they must be spent, unless we would have the displeasure to see them run to Seed without doing us a∣ny Service; in which Respect the Market Gard'ners have a great advantage beyond o∣ther Persons, because they can sell off in one day, whole Beds of these Cabbage Lettuces, for commonly the Beds which were new planted at the same time, Cabbage likewise all at once, whereas in other Gardens, we cannot spend them any faster than we need them, for which Reason we are obliged to plant often of them, and that in greater quantity than we are able to consume, that we may have a continual supply of them successively, without any Discontinuation, it being much more commodious to have an over-plus quantity of them, than to want. The surest way is to keep particularly to those sorts that are the most Rustical, and that last a great while cabbaged before they run to Seed, such as are the Shell Lettuces, the Perpignans, the Green Genua's, the Aubervilliers, and the Austrichettes, or Austrian Lettuces, which I must confess too, are a long time cab∣baging.

The third inconvenience is, that the Morie, that is, the Rot which begins at the ends of their Leaves, seizes them sometimes, and that when the Ground or the Sea∣son are not favourable to them, they remain thin and lean, and run up to Seed instead of spreading and cabbaging. There is hardly any Remedy to prevent this Rot be∣cause there is hardly any to be found effectual against the cold and rainy Seasons that cause it; but against the defects that may be in the Ground, there are infallible ones, that is to say, it must be amended and improved with small Dung, if it be barren, whether it be a sandy, or a Cold and gross Earth; and to this last, we should give a little slope, if when the Ground is good, the waters spoil it by settling too much in it, and by that means, make all the Plants growing there to rot. Good Dung throughly rotten, be∣ing the Soul and Primum Mobile of Kitchen-Gardens, without which, no more than without frequent waterings, and dressing of the Ground no man can ever be rich in fine and goodly Legumes.

There yet remains to be known for the perfect understanding the ordering of Let∣tuces, that they which grow biggest must be placed ten or twelve inches one from the other, which is to be understood of the Shell Lettuces, Perpignans, Austrians, Bellegardes, or Fair-looks, Aubervilliers, Alfanges, and Imperials; and for those that bear heads but of a midling size, the distance of seven or eight inches is enough, which are the Bright Curled, the short, the little Red, and the Green Chicon Lettuces, &c. Those that will be good husbands may sow Radishes in their Lettuce Beds, because the Radishes will be all drawn out and spent before the Lettuces cabbage; and for the same reason, because the Endives are much longer before they come to perfection than the Lettuces, we may Plant some of these last among the Endives; they agree well enough one with the other: and so we may have a double crop to gather upon one and the same Bed and in the same Season; for the Lettuces are gathered first, and afterwards the Endives arrive to their full good∣ness.

M.

MAches, are a sort of little Sallet which we may call a wild and rustical Sallet, because indeed it seldom is brought before any noble Company. They are multiplied by Seed which is gathered in July, and are only used towards the end of Winter. We make Beds for them which we sow about the end of August; they are hardy enough to resist the rigours of the Frost, and because they produce a great many little Seeds that easily fall, though we have but a little quantity of them, they will propa∣gate themselves sufficiently, without any other culture but weeding them.

Mallows and Marsh-mallows ought to be allowed a place in our Kitchen-Gardens, though civility will not permit us to explain in this Treatise what uses they serve for, and though they be rather Plants of the wild fields than of a Garden. They grow of their own accord, and have no more need of cultivating than any of the Weeds that infest the good Herbs. When we have a mind to have any of them in our Gardens, it will be best to sow them in some by-place.

Marjoram, or Marjerom, is an Odoriferous Plant of which we compose agreeable Borders and Edgings. There is the Winter Marjoram, which is the best, and the Summer Marjoram which lasts not beyond that Season. Both of them are multiplied by Seed, and likewise by Rooted slips or suckers. They are principally used in making Per∣fumes.

Mint, called in French, Balm, when once planted, needs no other particular culture than being cut down close to the Ground every year, at the end of Autumn, to make it shoot out store of tender Sprouts in the Spring, which are mingled with the Furnitures of Sallets for them that love them a little spicy and perfumed. It must be renewed every three years at least, and placed always in good Earth. The Branches when cut off, take Root at the place where they are covered, and by that means, of one great Tuft, we may easily make a great many, which are to be planted at the distance of a foot one from the other. In the Winter likewise, we plant some thick Tufts of it upon Hot Beds and by taking care to cover them with Bells, they spring very well for about fif∣teen days, and then perish.

Muscats are a kind of Grapes, which when they attain to their natural goodness, are one of the most considerable commodities of a Kitchen-Garden. There are three sorts of them, viz. White, Red, and Black, the White is commonly the best of the three, it re∣quires temperate Countries like that of the Isle of France, and the Expositions of the South and East, and always a light Ground, we seldom see any good ones in pure Earth, and if it be in hot Climates, or Gravelly, and Sandy Ground; they prosper very well upon Counter-Espaliers, or Pole Hedge-Trees, and even in the open Air. Their Goodness consists in having large, yellow, and crackling Berries, and growing thin in their Clu∣sters, and in a pretty rich musked taste, but yet not too strong like the Spanish ones. The Province of Tourain produces admirable ones. Their Culture is exactly the same with that of the Chassela's Grapes, both as to their Pruning, and manner of Propaga∣tion.

The Long Muscat, called otherwise the Passe-Musquee, is another sort of Grape whose Berry is bigger and more longish than that of the ordinary Muscat, and its clusters are also longer, but yet its taste is nothing near so rich as that of the others.

N.

NAsturces: See Capucin Capers.

O.

ONions are red or white, which last are sweeter and more prized than the red ones. There's no Body but knows how many uses they serve for. They are propagated only by Seed, which is commonly sown at the latter end of February and beginning of March, in Beds of good Earth, and well prepared, and afterwards raked with an Iron Rake, to cover them, as is done to other small Seeds. They must be sown thin, that they may have room to grow to their full bigness, and therefore if they come up too thick, they must be thinned by pulling some of them up as soon as they are big enough for that, which is towards the Month of May, which we transplant in order to use instead of Ci∣bouls. Though the ordinary Season for sowing Onions, be at the end of Winter, yet we

maysow some in September, and transplant them afterwards in the Month of May, by which means we may have some full grown at the very beginning of July, which we may ga∣ther, plucking them first out of the Ground as soon as that time comes, and then after we have dried them two or three days in the hot Sun, lay them up in some dry place, to keep all the year in case of need. We must not forget when our Onions begin to appear with pretty thick Stems above the Superficies of the Earth, that is, when they begin to advance towards their Maturity, to break them down, either by treading them under our Feet, or with a board pretty hard pressed down upon them, because by that means the nourishment that was before spent in their stems, being hindered from mounting upwards, will remain and settle all in that which I think, is but improperly called their head, and make it grow so much the bigger. I have already told you elsewhere, how their Seed is to be raised.

P.

PArsley, as well of the Curled as ordinary sort, is of great use in Kitchens all the year long, as well for its Leaves as Roots. It is comprehended under the Title of Ver∣dures or green Pot-herbs. We ought not to fail in the Spring, to sow a reasonable quanti∣ty of it in every Garden, and that pretty thick, and in good, and well prepared Ground. When its Leaves are cut, it shoots out new ones like Sorrel. It well enough resists a mo∣derate, but not a violent cold, and therefore 'tis best to bestow some covering on it in Winter, to defend it. When we would have any of it produce large Roots, we must thin it in the Beds or Borders where 'tis sown. It requires pretty much watering in very hot weather. There are some that pretend to have a kind of Parsly bigger than ordinary, but for my part I know no such kind. The Curled Parsly appears more agreeable to the Sight, than the Common sort, but is never a whit better than it for that. We gather our Parsly Seeds in the Months of August and September.

Macedonian Parsley, or Alisanders, is one of the Furnitures of our Winter-Sallets, which must be whitened like Wild Endive, or Succory; that is to say, at the end of Autumn, we must cut down all its Leaves, and then cover the Bed where it grows, all over with long dry Dung, or Straw Screens, so close, that the Frost may not come at it, by which means, the new Leaves that spring from it, grow white, yellowish and tender. We sow it in the Spring, pretty thin, because it produces a great many large Leaves, and we gather its Seed at the latter end of Summer. It is a good hardy Plant, and that de∣fends its self very well from the Drought, without requiring much watering.

Parsnips are a sort of Roots well known in our Kitchens. We sow them towards the end of Winter, either in open Ground, or Borders, and that always pretty thin, and in good and well prepared Ground; and if they come up too thick, they must be thinned as soon as May comes in, that they which are left, may be the better nourisht, and grow the fairer. They are propagated only by Seed, for the raising which, the same care is to be taken as we have directed for that of Red Beet-roots, Carrots, &c.

Passe Musquee: See Muscats.

Patience, or Sharp Dock: See Dock.

Peas, or Pease may be placed in rank of Kitchen-plants. It is a good rustical or hardy Plant, which commonly is sown in the open Field, without needing any other Culture than being weeded whilst 'tis young, that is, before it begins to codd. But when they are propt, they yield more than when they are not. They require pretty good Ground, and a little Rain to make them tender and delicate, and must be sown pretty thin. There are several sorts of them, viz. Hastings, Green, White and Square ones, otherwise called large codded Peas, &c. We may have of them in the Months of May, June, July, August, September and October. For to have some all that while after the first, we have no more to do, but to sow them in different Months, to have them fit for eating three Months after. Those sorts we are most choice of in Kitchen-Gardens are the Hastings both White and Green, which are of a midling Size. We sow them at the end of October, under the shelter of some Eastern or Southern Walls, and we raise Ridges or sloped Banks too, sometimes for that purpose; and to dispose them to come up so much the sooner when they are Sown, we make them Sprout five or six days before, by laying them to steep two days in Water, and afterwards laying them in a place where the cold cannot reach them, till their first Root begins to appear. Hard wea∣ther spoils them quite, which is the reason why all we can do, will not procure us any good ones till the latter end of May. We likewise sow some upon hot Beds, at the end of February, in order to transplant them by the sides of some well exposed Walls, in

case those sown at the latter end of October preceeding, happen to have been spoiled by the Frost. Our last time of Sowing them is at Midsummer, to have them fit to eat a∣bout All-hallow-tide.

Pompions and Potirons, or Flat Pompions: See Citrulls.

Purslain is one of the prettiest Plants in a Kitchen-gardens, which is principally used in Sallets, and sometimes in Pottages. There are two sorts of it, viz. The Green, and the Red, or Golden; this latter is the more agreeable of the two to the Eye, and more deli∣cate and difficult to rear, so that in hard weather we have much ado to make it grow even upon hot Beds, and under Bells, for it seldom prospers in open Beds till about the middle of May, and then too, the Earth must be very good, sweet, and very loose, and the weather very fair. And therefore for our first Purslain which we are not to begin to sow upon hot Beds till towards the Middle of March, we must use only the Green sort, because the Yellow or Golden sort dwindles away as soon as 'tis come up, un∣less the Season be a little advanced, and the Sun a little hot, which is, towards the end of April. It is commonly sown very thick, because its Seed is so very small, that it can∣not be sown thin. When we sow it upon hot Beds, either when 'tis cold, and that by consequence Glass-bells or Frames are needfull, or in milder Weather, we only press down the Mold about it with our hands, or with the back of a Spade; but when we sow it in open Beds which must be well prepared for that purpose, we rake it over five or six times with an Iron Rake, to make the Seed enter into the Ground.

They way to raise Seed from it, is to transplant some Plants of it that are big e∣nough, into Beds well prepared, at the distance of eight or ten inches ones from the o∣ther: The Months of June and July are proper for that effect. And then in a little time after, they are run up, and have done flowring, assoon as ever we perceive any of their Husks to open, and discover some black Seed, we must cut down all their Stems and lay them some days in the Sun till all the Seed be quite ripened, and then we beat them out and winnow them, &c. We must be carefull to transplant each sort a∣part by it self, that we may not be mistaken in the Seed when we are to sow it. The Stick Stalks of Purslain that is run to Seed, are good to pickle in Salt and Vinegar, for Winter Sallets.

R

RAdishes, when they are qualified with all the goodness they should have, that is, when they are tender, and snap easily, and are sweet, are in my Opinion, one of the Plants that give the most pleasure of any in our Kitchin-gardens, and that give it as often, and for as long a time as any of them all; and I look upon them as a kind of Manna in our Gardens. There seems to be no great pains required to make them grow, it being indeed only necessary to sow them pretty thin, in well prepared loose and mel∣low Earth, and to water them soundly in drie Weather, and with this culture they will attain to all the perfection they are capable of. But the main points here in Que∣stion, are first, to be always provided with Seed of a good kind; and secondly, to take order to have Radishes without discontinuation, from the Month of February, till the coming in of the Frosts in the middle of November. As for Seed of a good kind, know, that is it that produces few Leaves, and a long red Root, for there are some that pro∣duce a great many leaves and little Root; and when we are once provided with Seed of a good kind, we must be extreme carefull to propagate it, that we never be without a stock of it; for which effect, in the Month of April, we must choose out among those Radishes that are come of the last years Seed, such, as I have said, which have the fewest Leaves and the most Root, and reddest Necks, and transplant them quite whole in some well prepared spot of Ground, a foot and a half a sunder: Being so transplanted, they will run up, flower and yield Seed ripe enough to gather towards the end of July; and then we cut down their stems; and after they have been dried some days in the Sun, we beat out the Seed, and winnow it, &c.

Those stocks of them that run up to Seed, shoot up their Branches to such a height, and perpetuate their flowers so far as if they knew not where to stop; and therefore it is good to pinch off these Branches to a reasonable length, that the first Podds may be the better nourished.

But 'tis not enough to raise good Seed, we must likewise take order to be supplied with good Radishes for eight or nine Months in the year. The first that are eaten grow on Hot-beds, the manner of raising which, I have explained in the Works of November; and by the means of those Hot Beds, we may have some during the Months of Februa∣ry

March and April; otherwise we have none; and in order to have some all the other Months, we must sow some among all manner of Seeds, they coming up so very quickly, that we have time to gather off our Radishes before they can do any harm to the other Plants. Radishes are extreamly apprehensive of the excessive heat in Summer, which makes them grow strong as they term it, that is, too biting, stringy, and sometimes very hard; and therefore in that Season we would affect to sow them in very loose Mellow Ground, where the Sun shines but little; and the best way should be, to make up along by the sides of some Northern Walls, a Bed or two for that purpose, filled with mold to the depth of a large foot and an half, and to sow our Radishes there, and water them well. In Spring and Autumn, when the Sun is not so Hot, Radishes take well enough in open Ground, and in the wide unsheltered Air.

Rass-berries, or Rasp-berries, as well as the White as Red, begin to Ripen at the begin∣ning of July. They are planted in March, either in Beds or borders observing the distance of two foot between Plant and Plant. They shoot out during the Summer many well Rooted Suckers, some of which we take away to make new plantations with, by which means the old ones are likewise renewed for they drie assoon as their Fruit is gathered. The only culture used to them is, first, in the Month of March to shorten all their new shoots which we preserve round about the old stock, and which ought to be only the thickest and handsomest, and in the second place, to pluck away all the small ones, as likewise the old ones that are dead.

Reponces are a sort of small sweet Radishes which grow wild in the Country, and especially in the Corn, and are eatch in Sallets in the spring time. They are multiplied only by Seed.

Rocamboles: See Shallots.

Rocket is one of our Sallet Furnitures, which is sown in the Spring as most of the others are. Its Leaf is pretty like that of Radishes, and its Seed is very small, and almost like Purslain Seed, but it is of a Reddish, or rather darkish Cinnamon Colour.

Rosemary is another sort of Odoriferous Plant which is principally used for the per∣fuming of Chambers, and in decoctions for washing the Feet. It is multiplied in the same manner as Rue, and other border Plants, and lasts five or six years in its place.

Rue is a Plant of very strong smell, of which we plant some borders in our Gardens; it is propagated both by Seed, and Rooted slips, and is hardly of any use but against the vapours of the Mother.

S.

SAge is a border Plant, whose culture has nothing of particular, but is like that of the other border Herbs, as Rosemary, Lavender, Worm-wood, &c. There is a sort that is parti-Coloured, which to some people appears more agreeable than the common Sage, which is of palish Green Colour.

Spanish Salsifie, or Sassifie, otherwise Scorzonere, is one of our chiefest Roots, which is multiplied by Seed as well as the others, and is admirable good boiled both for the plea∣sure of the taste, and the health of the Body. It is propagated only by Seed which is sown in March. We must be careful to sow it pretty thin, whether it be in Beds or borders, or else at least to thin it afterward, that its Roots may grow the bigger. Scorzonere runs up to Seed in the Months of June and July, and is gathered assoon as 'tis Ripe.

Common Salsifie is another sort of Root cultivated after the same manner as the preceed∣ing one, but is not altogether so very excellent. They easily pass the Winter in the Ground. It is good to water both sorts of them in very dry weather, and to keep them well weeded, and especially, to put them into good Earth well prepared, of at least two full foot deep.

Samphire called in French, Pierce Pierre, or Passe-Pierre, is one of our Sallet Furnitures that is multiplied only by Seed, and which being by nature very delicate requires to be planted by the sides of Walls exposed to the South or East, the open Air, and great Cold being pernicious to it. We usually sow it in some Pot or Tub filled with mold, or else on some side-Bank towards the South or East, and that in the Months of March or April, and afterwards transplant it in those places above-mentioned.

Savory is an annual Plant a little Odoriferous, which grows only from Seed, and whose Leaves are used to some Ragou's, and particularly among Peas, Beans; it is sown in the Spring either in Beds or borders.

Scorzonere, or Scorzonera: See Spanish Salsifie.

Shallots, otherwise Rocamboles, or Spanish Garlick, require no other culture than com∣mon Garlick, and are particularly remarkable for that their Seeds are as good to eat as their Cloves taken out of the Earth. Their Seed is large and serves to propagate them as well as the Cloves or Kernels that compose their Root.

Skirrets are a sort of Roots propagated by Seed, and cultivated like other Roots, as is directed in the Month of March.

Spinage is one of those Kitchen Plants that requires the best Ground, or at least that which is most amended and improved. They are multiplied only by Seed. We sow them either in open Ground, or else in furrows or strait rows upon well prepared Beds and this we do several times in the year, beginning about the sixteenth of August, and finish∣ing a Month after; the first are fit to cut towards the middle of October, the second in Lent, and the last in Rogation time; Those which remain after Winter, run up to Seed towards the end of May, which we gather about the middle of June. When they are once cut they spring up no more, as Sorrel do's. All their culture consists in keeping them very clear from Weeds; and if the Autumn prove extraordinary dry, it is not amiss to water them sometimes. They are never transplanted no more than Chervil, Cresses, &c.

Sorrel in Kitchen-Garden terms, is placed under the title of Verdures, or Green Pot Herbs, and accordingly is much used in the Pot. There are some sorts of it that produce a lar∣ger Leaf than others, which are called Sorrel of the greater sort. All the sorts may be sown in the Months of March, April, May, June, July and August, and in the beginning of September too, provided they be allowed sufficient time to grow big enough to resist the rigour of the Winter, we sow Sorrel either in open Ground, or else in strait rows, or furrows, in Beds or borders, in all which cases, it must be sown very thick, because many of its Plants perish. It requires a ground that is naturally good, or else well im∣proved with Muck. Its culture consists in being kept very clear of Weeds, in being well watered, and being covered with a little mold once or twice a year, after 'tis first cut down very close to the Ground. That mold serves to give it new vigour, and the Sea∣son most proper for applying it, is in the hot Months of the year. Sorrel is most com∣monly multiplied by Seed, though sometimes we transplant some of it that thrives very well. We gather its Seed in the Months of July and August. There is a particular sort of Sorrel, which is called Round Sorrel, its Leaves being indeed Round, whereas those of the other sorts are very sharp and pointed. The tender Leaves of this sort are sometimes mixed with Sallet Furnitures. But it is ordinarily used most in Bouillons, or thin Broths. It is multiplied by running Branches, that take Root in the Earth, as they run over it, which being taken off, and transplanted, produce thick Tufts which also produce other runners, and so in infinitum.

Sharp Dock, or Dock-Sorrel: See Dock.

Wood Sorrel, or Alleluia: See Alleluia.

Straw-berries, as well the White as the Red, multiply and perpetuate themselves by running Suckers that springing out of their old stocks, take Root. It is observed, that a new plantation of them taken out of the Woods, turns to better account when transplan∣ted, than one slipt of from the Garden Straw-berries. We plant them either in Beds or borders, both which must be well prepared, amended and laboured or stirred up in one manner or other. If it be in dry and sandy Ground, both the Beds and borders must be sunk a little lower than the Allies or path-ways, the better to retain both the rain that falls, and the water we bestow on them; a quite contrary course must be taken, if we plant them in strong, heavy, and fat Earth, and that is almost all pure Clay, because excessive moisture rots the Plants. We place them usually nine or ten Inches asunder, putting two or three little Plants into each hole which we make with a planting stick. The best time to plant them in is during the whole Month of May, and in the beginning of June, that is to say, before the great heat comes in. And we may plant them all Summer long in rainy Seasons. It is particularly requisite to plant Nurseries of them in the Month of May, and that in some place near the North Quarter, the better to shelter them from the violent heat of the Summer Sun, and then we plant them but three or four Inches one from the other, and when they are grown big enough there, we transplant them afterwards in the Month of September in order to make Beds or squares of them, accor∣ding as we find occasion to have a greater or less abundance of them. Their culture consists chiefly, first, in watering them well in dry Seasons; secondly in leaving, but a moderate number of stems or upright shoots to every stock, three or four of the most vigourous being enough; in the third place, in leaving but three or four Straw-berries of

them that appeared first, and nearest the stock, on every stem, and therefore we must pinch of all their other Blossoms that almost endlessly grow out at the ends of those that have already Blossomed, or are still in Blossom, because none but the first produce any fair Straw-berries, hardly any of the last being ever known to knit or come to any per∣fection, but when we are careful to pinch them off judicially we may be assured always to have good Straw-berries. I have already given directions in the works of the Month of February, how to raise Hasting Straw-berries. Curious Persons have usually two Straw-barries of two several Colours, viz. Red and White, but they place them in separate Beds. The great Enemies of Straw-berry Plantations are the Ton's which are great White Worms, that in the Months of May and June, gnaw the necks of their Roots between two Earths, and so kill them; to prevent which, in those Months we should carefully search every day, under the Roots of all our Straw-berries that begin to wither, where we shall commonly find one of these great Worms which after they have done a mischief to one, pass on to do the same to other Straw-berry Plants, and kill them in the same manner. Straw-berry Plants bear very well the year after their planting, if plan∣ted in May; but yield very indifferently, if not planted till September, after they are taken out of the Woods; yet in the second year they bear wonderfully, but that being past, they produce but very pitifully, and therefore 'tis good to renew them every two years; it is likewise convenient to cut off every year their old tops, when the Straw-berries are gone, which is commonly at the latter end of July. The earliest Straw-berries that ri∣pen towards the end of May, are those that were planted by the sides of Southern or Ea∣stern Walls, and they that ripen last, are such as are planted in a Northern Exposition.

Succory: See Endive.

Sweet Herbs: See Aromaticks.

T.

TArragon is one of the perfuming or Spicy Furnitures of our Sallets, it is propagated both by rooted slips and Seed. It springs again several times after 'tis cut; it endures the Winter, and needs little watering in the driest weather in Summer, when we plant it, we must allow eight or nine inches distance between Plant and Plant in the Beds we set with it. The best time to plant in, is in March and April, which hinders not, but that we may transplant it again in the Summer Season.

Time is another odoriferous Border-plant, which is multiplied as well by Seed as rooted Branches or Slips. A Border of Time is a considerable and necessary Ornament in our Kitchen-Gardens.

Tripe-Madam is one of our Sallet-Furnitures; it is used chiefly in the Spring when it is tender, but a little of it ought to serve in the Summer, because then it is too tough. It is multiplyed both by Seeds and Cuttings.

Turneps or Turnips are not properly Kitchen-Garden Plants, but yet where they are spa∣cious, they may be admitted into them. They are propagated only by Seed, and are sown very thick in Beds, some in March, and others in August. We gather their Seed in July and August, every Body so well knows their use, that I need speak no more of them here.

V.

Verjuice Grapes: See Bourdelais.

Vines: See the several heads of Bourdelais, Muscats, &c.

Violets, and especially the double ones serve to make pretty Borders in our Kitchen-Gardens. Their flowers make a very agreeable Figure when they are artfully placed on the Superficies of Spring-Sallets. Every Body knows, that they are propagated by Tufts, that is, by dividing one great Tuft into several little ones, which likewise in time grows thick, and fit to be divided into other little ones.

W.

WOrmwood. The plants of this and all other Plants placed in Borders of Edgings, and therefore called Border-plants, as of Time, Lavender, Hyssop, &c. are plan∣ted by a Line, and at the distance of two or three Inches one from the other, and five or six inches deep in the Ground. It is good to clip them every Spring, and to renew them every two years, and to take away their oldest and decayed stocks. Their Seed is gathered about the Month of August.

CHAP. VII.

Shewing how long every Kitchen Plant may profitably stand in its place in a Kitchen-Garden; which of them must be housed in the Conservatory to supply us in the Winter, and which are they which we may force to grow by Art, in spite of the Frost. And lastly, how long each sort of Seed will last without losing its Virtue.

IT is a very important point in Gard'ning, to know how long every plant may use∣fully possess the place where it grows in our Gardens, that so the forecast of an a∣ble Gard'ner, may prepare others immediately to substitute in the places of such as be∣ing as 'twere, but Passengers, take up their places but a few Months; for by this means, not only there remains no unprofitable spot of Ground in our Gardens, but we seem be∣sides to reap a sensible pleasure by enjoying in some Sense beforehand some things that are not yet in Nature.

To treat of this matter well, I think it very pertinent to speak first of those Plants that are of long duration, whether in respect of the time they take up in attaining to their Perfection, or of that in which they continue bearing. All sorts of Grapes, Capers, and As∣paragus, doubtless, hold the first Rank in this number, for Vine and Caper plants last five and twenty or thirty years, and as to Asparagus, reckoning from the time we first sow or transplant them, we ought hardly ever to begin to gather them till their shoots be of a competent thickness, which happens not till the third or fourth year after, but after that time, provided they be placed in good Ground and carefully cultivated, they may very well be suffred to stand ten or twelve years, it being certain that they will not fail to shoot up and bear vigorously and plentifully during all that time; but yet if we per∣ceive any decay in them sooner, we may destroy and break them up sooner, and if on the contrary, we find them continue to produce well longer than we have limited, we may continue them longer in their places.

Rasberry, Curran, and Gooseberry shrubs, easily last eight or ten years.

Artichokes must be renewed, that is new planted in a fresh place after the third year.

The Borders of Wormwood, Hyssop, Lavender, Marjoram, Rue, Rosemary, Sage, Time, Violets, &c. provided they be not endamaged by an extraordinary hard Winter, may subsist in their places three or four years, if care be taken to clip them pretty close every Summer.

Alleluia, or Wood-sorrel, Mint, Musked Chervil, English Cives, Tarragon, Sorrel, Patience, or sharp Dock, Samphire, Macedonian Parsly or Alisanders, Tripe-Madame, &c. may likewise last well enough in their places three or four Years.

Strawberry Plants may last three years, Wild Endive or Succory, Anis, Ordinary Parsly, Burnet, Fennel, Scorzonere, and Common Salsifie, &c. last two years.

Leeks both to cut, and for Chards, and Cibouls, &c. last a year, that is, from one Spring to another.

Borage, Bugloss, Red Beet Roots, Spanish Cardons, Carrots, Skirrets, Cabbages, Milan Cab∣bages, Collyflowers, Citruls or Pumpions, Harts-horn Sallet, Potirons or Flat Pumpions, Pars∣nips, Leeks, &c. keep their places nine Months, that is, reckoning from the Spring, when they were sown, to the end of Autumn.

Garlick, Basil, Nasturces or Capucin Capers, Cucumbers, and Melons or Muskmelons, Sha∣lots, Onions, and the first or Summer Turneps, &c. take them up only during the Spring and Summer Seasons, so that their places may receive a new Decoration of Plants in Au∣tumn.

Arrach, or Orage, Ordinary Chervil, White Endive, and Succory Garden Cresses, and all sorts of Lettuces, whether to cabbage, or to tie up, &c. take up their Ground about two Months.

Radishes, Purslain, and Ordinary Chervil, &c. take up their places but five or six Weeks, and therefore they must be new sown every fifteen days in Summer time.

Hasting Pease and Beans, continue on the Ground six or seven Months, reckoning from the Month of November when they are sown, but common Peas and Beans, and Aricôs, or French-Beans, take it up but four or five Months.

Spinage and Màches keep theirs all Autumn and Winter, and therefore are planted in places, where we have already raised such Plants as last not beyond the Summer.

Mallows and Marsh-mallows are multiplied only by Seed, and pass not beyond the Win∣ter.

The Plants that require housing in the Conservatory during Winter, are Cardoons, Cellery, Artichoke heads, both the Endives, as well the White, as the Wild sort, all that are known by the name of Roots, as Red Beet Roots, Carrots, &c. as likewise Leeks, Citruls or Pumpions, Potirons or Common Pumpions, Garlick, and Shalots. All the rest resist the injuries of the Winter well enough, viz. Cabbages, Parsly, Fennel, Cibouls, and even Tar∣ragon, Mint, Samphire, Tripe-Madame, Balm, Asparagus, Sorrel, &c. But they sprout not till the Spring, unless forced on Hot Beds. Other Plants are not acquainted with that sort of help, or rather Violence, such as are all Roots, and Garlick, Onions, Leeks, Cab∣bages, &c. Add to this, that by the same expedient of Hot Beds, we may also raise in the height of cold Weather, little Sallets of Lettuces, with their Furnitures of Cresses, Cher∣vil, Mint, &c.

There remains now nothing but to know how long each sort of Seed will keep good, upon which I must tell you, that generally speaking, most Seeds grow naught after one of two years at most, and therefore it concerns us always to be provided with new ones, if we would not run the hazard of sowing to no purpose in the Spring. There are hard∣ly any but Peas, Beans, and the Seeds of Muskmelons, Cucumbers, Citruls or Pumpions, and Potirons or Flat Cucumbers, that last eight or ten years. The Seeds of Collyflowers last three or four, and those of all sorts of Endive and Succory, five or six years. Of all sorts of Seeds there are none that keep so small a time as Lettuce Seed, which yet are better the second, than the first year, but yet are good for nothing the third.

The End of the Sixth and Last PART.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Columella, Theophrastus, Xenophon.
• * 1.2

  Qui cum judicio putat Arborem, efficit, ut quod Arbor sponte vo∣luit facere, Ju∣st••iâ violentâ cogatur, ut id agat. Crescentius. Terrae impera∣mus, & soli nequaquam.
• * 1.3

  Omnis Arborum putatio quando∣cunque fieri po∣test à tempore casus foliorum. Crescentius.
• * 1.4

  Aspices cur∣vatos Pomorum pondere ramos. Ut sua quod peperit, vix fe∣rat Arboronus.
• * 1.5

  Fundusque mendax Arbore nunc aquas cul∣pante, nunc tor∣rente agros Si∣dera. Horatius
• * 1.6

  Nec sen'ire sitim patitur, bibulaeque recur∣vas radicis fi∣bras labentibus i•• rigat undit. Ovid.
• * 1.7

  Vim tamen a∣grestum metuens pomaria claudit, Intus & ac∣cessus prohibet. Idem. Juniperi gra∣vis umbra, no∣cent & frugibus umbrae. Virgil. 10 Ecl. Hortus nullas amat umbras praeter umbrar•• domini. Cresentius.
• * 1.8

  Vix unquam 〈◊〉〈◊〉 surculus proficit nisi primo anno val∣dè proficiat. Crescentius.
• * 1.9

  Perfections of the Figure of a Dwarf-Tree.
• * 1.10

  A. First Perfection. B 2d. Perfection. C. 3d Perfection. D 4th. Perfection.
• * 1.11

  Imperfections of the Figure of a Dwarf-Tree. E. First Imper∣fection. F. 2. Imperfection. G. 3. Imperfection. H. 4. Imperfection.
• * 1.12

  Bonum ex in∣tegrâ causâ; malum ex quo∣libet defectu.
• * 1.13

  Non nunquam in Arbore unus ramus c••teris est Latior, quem nisi rescideris tota arb••r con∣tristabitur. Columella.
• * 1.14

  Lisete.
• * 1.15

  Garden-Mice.
• * 1.16

  Weesels.
• * 1.17

  Those usu∣ally called by the Name of Cock-Chafers.
• * 1.18

  Cultus, & in primis succos e∣mendat acerbos, &c. Ovid lib. remedio amo∣ris. Sponte Suâ quae se tollunt in∣luminis auros, infaecunda qui∣dem, sed laeta & fortia surgunt. Quippe solo na∣tura subest. Tamen haec quo∣que si quis in∣ferat, &c. Ec paulo post. Exuerint silve∣strem animum, &c. Georg. lib. 2. Nec consitio∣nes modo de∣lectant, sed e∣tiam insitiones, quibus nihil in∣venit Agricul∣tura Solertius. Cic. de Sene∣ctuce.
• * 1.19

  Sunt alii, quos ipse viâ sibi rep∣perit usus. Georg. 2.
• * 1.20

  Of all Arts the most generous, and most proper for a Gentleman is the Art of Husbandry. Xenophon.
• * 1.21

  Ut gaudet imitiva decer∣pens' pyra. Horat. Epod 2.
• * 1.22

  Regem aequa∣bat opes animis serâque rever∣tens nocte do∣mum dapidus inensas onera∣bat inemptis. Georg. 2. Et sterilès plantani malos gessere valentes. Georg 2. Castancae Fa∣gus, ornusque inc••nuit albo Flore pyri: glandemque sucs fregere sub ul∣mis! Et Paulo superius inseri∣tur vero ix foetu nucis arbutus horrida. Et alio loco & prunis lapidosa rubes∣cere corna. Georg. 2.
• * 1.23

  Venerit Insi∣tio. Fac ra∣mum ramus a∣doptet, Stetque, Peregrinis ar∣ber operta comis! ••issaque adopti∣vas, accipit ar∣bor opes. Ovid. lib. 1. de remed. amoris.
• * 1.24

  Et Saepè al∣terius ramos impune, vide∣mus vertere in alterius, muta∣tamque insita mala ferre Py∣rum. Georg. 2. Inutilesque falce Ramos amputans faeli∣ciores inserit. Horat. Epod. Tamen haec quoque si quis inserat, &c. Cultuque fre∣quenti in quas∣cunqu: voces artes, haud tarda sequen∣tur. Georg. 2.
• * 1.25

  A la Pousse, as the Author Terms it.
• * 1.26

  Nec modus inseree atque oculos imponere simplex. &. Georg. 2. The Figure of the Graffing-Knives is De∣scribed in the Plate of the Pruining-Knives, P. 15. Vol. II.
• * 1.27

  Huc aliena ex Arbore ger∣men includunt, udoque docent inolescere libro. Georg. 2.
• * 1.28

  A la Pousse.
• * 1.29

  Aut rursum enodes trunci resceantur, & alté finditur in solidum cuncis via: deinde se∣races plantae immittuntur; nec longum tempus, & ingens exiit ad caelum ra∣mis foelicibus arbos, Georg. 2
• * 1.30

  Nam quae se medio trudunt decortice gem∣mae & tenues rumpunt tunicas angustus in ipso sic nodo sinus: hûc aliend ex arbore germen includunt, udo∣que docent ino∣lescere libro. Georg. 2.
• * 1.31

  Insere daphne pyros, carpent tua poma nepo∣tes. Virg. Georg.
• * 1.32

  Pole Lattices set up against Walls, much us'd in France.
• * 1.33

  The Art of Cul∣tivating Kitchen-Gardens and Pot-Herbs, &c. An∣cient and Uni∣versal.
• * 1.34

  Beatus ille qui precul negotits, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 prisca Gens Mor∣taliam, paterna rura bebus exer∣cet suis, &c. Hor. Fp d. 2. Happy the Man from toilsom cares set free, Who does regain Man's ancient Li∣berty; Plowing his Ground with Oxen of his own. By Parents l••fe, fr••e from usurious Loan.
• * 1.35

  A French Bushel is 20 Pound weight, or near a peck and half English.
• * 1.36

  January.
• * 1.37

  February.
• * 1.38

  March.
• * 1.39

  April.
• * 1.40

  May.
• * 1.41

  June.
• * 1.42

  July and Au∣gust.
• * 1.43

  September and October.
• * 1.44

  November.
• * 1.45

  December.