The compleat gard'ner, or, Directions for cultivating and right ordering of fruit-gardens and kitchen-gardens with divers reflections on several parts of husbandry, in six books : to which is added, his treatise of orange-trees, with the raising of melons, omitted in the French editions / by the famous Monsr De La Quintinye ... ; made English by John Evelyn ... ; illustrated with copper plates.

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Title
The compleat gard'ner, or, Directions for cultivating and right ordering of fruit-gardens and kitchen-gardens with divers reflections on several parts of husbandry, in six books : to which is added, his treatise of orange-trees, with the raising of melons, omitted in the French editions / by the famous Monsr De La Quintinye ... ; made English by John Evelyn ... ; illustrated with copper plates.
Author
La Quintinie, Jean de, 1626-1688.
Publication
London :: Printed for M. Gillyflower ...,
1693.
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Subject terms
Gardening -- Early works to 1800.
Fruit-culture.
Link to this Item
http://name.umdl.umich.edu/A49578.0001.001
Cite this Item
"The compleat gard'ner, or, Directions for cultivating and right ordering of fruit-gardens and kitchen-gardens with divers reflections on several parts of husbandry, in six books : to which is added, his treatise of orange-trees, with the raising of melons, omitted in the French editions / by the famous Monsr De La Quintinye ... ; made English by John Evelyn ... ; illustrated with copper plates." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A49578.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed June 16, 2024.

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Page 78

[illustration]

OF FRUIT-GARDENS, AND Kitchen-Gardens. VOL. II. PART V.

CHAP. I.

Concerning the Care that is Requir'd to Pick Fruits, when they are too abounding.

WHereas the Intention of our Culture is not only to promote fair Fruit, but especially to have it fine, and large; hoping thereby, and with Reason, that it will be the better for it, goodness seldom failing to attend Beauty, and Largeness of Size: And, whereas neither Pruning, nor the Trimming of the Buds, and useless Branches, the Tillages, or Improvements of the Ground are always sufficient to af∣ford us this Beauty, and Size; it follows from thence, that there is something else to be done, which is that I am to Treat of here.

It is certain, that when we neither meet with Frosts, or North-East Winds, at the time that the Trees Blossom, and the Fruit knits; that is, in the Months of March, April, and May; I say, it is certain, that pretty often in some parts of the Tree there remains too much Fruit for it to be very Beautiful; for in the first place, in Relation to Kernel-Fruits, whether Pears, or Apples, it is most certain that every Bud commonly produces many Blossoms, and consequently may produce many Fruits; that is, to the number of Seven, Eight, Nine, and Ten, &c. In the second place, as to stone Fruits, altho' every Bud, excepting only plain Cherries, Morello's, white and black Hearts and Bigarreaux, produce but one single Fruit, (for indeed, one Peach-Bud, and one Plum-Bud only produce one Peach, and one Plum,) yet, as every one of their Fruit-bearing Branches, is commonly

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burthened with a great number of Buds, all close to one another; it follows, that upon every one of those Branches there may remain an excessive quantity of Fruits, and there∣fore the same Argument we use for the Buds of Kernel-Fruits, may stand good for this; which is, that the more Fruit there knits upon one Bud, the smaller the Portion must be; which at the shooting out of the Stalk out of that Bud, distributes it self to every indivi∣dual Fruit; insomuch, that if the quantity were less, 'tis most certain that the Portion of every one of the remaining would be the larger, and consequently, the Fruit being the better fed, would be larger, and commonly better.

So likewise, the more Fruit there is upon a Branch of Stone-Fruit, Peach, Plum, or Apricock-Trees, &c. the smaller is the portion of Nourishment, which distributes it self to every Peach, and every Apricock, on such Branches; so that had there been less upon every Branch, the Fruit would certainly have been better fed, and consequently larger, and commonly better; since indeed, it is almost impossible to have at once Largeness, Beauty, and Goodness, when there is too much Fruit, either upon one and the same Bud, or upon one and the same Branch.

It follows from thence, that a Skillful Gard'ner, who takes care to make his Trees Blossom (which is in some measure in his Power to do) it follows, I say, that he must likewise take yet more care to leave no more Fruit on every Tree, and particularly on every Bud, and on every Branch, than in proportion to what he may judge, that the Tree, or rather the Branch, is capable to Nourish, in order to have that Fruit Beautiful.

I say, particularly the Branch; for, whereas the distribution of the Nourishment which is destin'd to every one, is perform'd at the first entrance of the Branch, according to the largeness of the Overture thereof, and not according to the multitude of the Fruit it is burthen'd with, nor the measure of Nourishment it may stand in need of; it follows, that the Fruit of every one only receives the benefit of that which Nature allows the Branch it grows on, without receiving the least benefit of that which it allows the Neighbouring Branches, every one of them having their peculiar Functions, and separated Works, which is so certain, that a Tree sometimes bearing but one or two Fruits, or at least, but a small quantity, that Fruit is no finer than if it had produc'd a far greater quantity.

It likewise follows from thence, that the encrease of Sap, or Nourishment, which may happen to every individual Fruit, only proceeds from the retrenchment that is made of the too great quantity of Fruit, which grew on every Bud, or upon the same Branch upon which it is found; as if every Bud, or every particular Fruit-Branch made particular Fa∣milies, having every one their particular Income, and each their Servants to nourish; in∣somuch, that as the one receives no benefit from the abundance of the others, so the Chil∣dren of every one in particular, have a greater share of nourishment; when the same food, which, for Example, might have been divided, or shar'd among Ten, is only divided among Two or Three.

Therefore it is certain, that we must leave but few Fruits upon every Bud, and upon every Branch, if we design to have them all both larger and finer; and whereas in Prun∣ing every Tree, I leave as many, and sometimes more good Buds, and good Fruit-Bearing-Branches upon it, than it seems capable to Nourish, being sensible of the hazards that are to be fear'd, before the Fruits of every one are safe; and being likewise desirous that all the Fruits of every Tree should be partly equally Beautiful, I never fail, after the Fruit is knit, to make an exact review of that which every Bud and every Branch contains, in order to leave no more on each Place, than it is likely to be able to Nourish plentiful∣ly.

It is likewise certain, that, pretty often, Nature seems to take care to purge, or disbur∣then it self of what it is over-burthen'd with; at least the Spring sometimes produces of those Frosts, and North-East Winds, we have already mention'd, which happen also pretty often between the Months of July and August; those kind of North-East Winds are Terrible shakers of Fruits; they beat down abundance of it, and some times too much, and that without the least discretion or measure, either in respect to the whole Tree, or to Every Branch, in so much that such years have a great Scarcity of Fruit, and often to Excess; But yet whatever Misfortune it may have caus'd, we must not fail still to make a review of what is remaining, to take away such from some Places, which in Prudence we Judge to be overburthen'd.

But then again, those Frosts and Stormy Winds do not always happen, and then the greatest part of the Fruit, which has knit, remains upon the Trees, and thus in the midst of Plenty, as to Number, we may really call our selves poor as to Beauty, and goodness, having nothing fine enough to Honour our Culture.

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In such a Case, I think it very proper, to ease Nature of a Cousiderable part of its Bur∣then, in the following manner.

First, It is fit to tarry, until the Fruits be pretty large and well form'd, in order to take away such as are superabundant, and particularly to preserve the most Beautiful and most sizeable; since that great Number consists both of good and bad, to which end we must commonly tarry until the end of May, and the begining of June, at which time Fruit is large enough to facilitate our Choice.

But this Picking or Culling must be Perform'd sooner for Apricocks than any other Fruits: Whereby we derive an advantage, which is not met with on other Trees, a very good use being made of small green Apricocks, which we cannot make of other small green Fruits, at least hitherto we have not found the way of it, tho it were perhaps to be wish'd we might.

Secondly, We must be careful to allow every Fruit, as near as we can, as much Room as it may require, for the size we know it is to be of, when it approaches to Maturity, and that particularly for those kind of Principal Stone-Fruits, which have short Stalks, viz. Peaches, Pavies, or Purple-Peaches, Apricocks, &c. otherwise they would obstruct each other in growing, and it often happens that those that are equally large destroy each other, or at least the strongest get the better, that is, the largest destroys the smallest, and thus the Nourishment which those Wretches have receiv'd during two or three Months, is lost in vain; whereas it might have been imploy'd to advantage, had care been taken to take off some of those that were worst plac'd betimes; for by that means those that should have been preserv'd, would have receiv'd the benefit of the Nourishment which was wasted on their Neighbours.

It follows from thence, that you must never leave those kind of Fruits near one ano∣ther, tho' they are Commonly so, several of them growing together, witness Apricocks, or at least two and two, witness Peaches: For commonly the Blossom Buds of Peach Trees only grow two and two, both very close to one another, being only divided by a small Eye, for Wood, which is a small beginning of a Branch, which Places it self between the Two, and for the generality only shoots a few Leaves, and no Wood; but when it shoots Vigorously and Forms a pretty fair Branch, then there is no necessity of remov∣ing one of those Fruits which on both sides accompany the Branch; their Natural Situati∣on keeping them at sufficient distance, and without doubt both of them will prove very Fine, provided nothing else press them while they are thickning, which as I have said, must be carefully look'd to; but in case the Shoot be but weak, and slender, it must not hinder the removing of one of the two Peaches: Moreover, as those kind of small Shoots are commonly at a stand even in June, it is very proper to shorten them at that very time to an Eye or Bud, in order to save the Nourishment, which would be wasted in them to no purpose; besides those are the Shoots which generally cause a Confusion; it will suffice to leave a Leaf or two upon each, to shelter the Peach from the Heat of the Sun, and that during all the time, of it's Tenderest Infancy; Shade being so very necessary at that time, that without it the Peach might perish, being uncover'd, before its being come to some Maturity.

Autumn and Winter Pears, especially such as are recommendable for the largeness of their Size, for instance, Beurre or Butter-Pears, Bon Chretiens, Virgoulee, &c. do likewise stand in need of that Picking or culling of Fruits; by reason that too many of them being left together upon one Knob, they will seldom prove very fine, one will suffice upon each, or two at most, and even those must appear pretty large, according to the Season, and both of an equal Size, for the one being less than the other, will always remain so, and consequently ill favour'd, which far from deserving to be preserv'd, since it could not attain the Size it ought to have, only serves to wrong the other, which would have thriven the better had it remain'd alone upon that Bud.

As for Summer Pears, for instance small Muscat, Robins, Cassolets, Rousselets, &c. there is no such absolute necessity to Pick them, they must only be us'd like Plums and Cherries; they are Fruits of an Ordinary and Regular Size, and are commonly good of all Sizes, provided they be Ripe, and not tainted by Worms.

Thirdly, It must be noted, that, when the Branches of Peach-Trees, upon which in Pruning we have left as many Blossoms, as we thought fit, which, as we have already noted, is always to some Kind of excess; when those Branches, I say, do not appear in the Month of May to receive Considerable Succors of new Sap, so as to thicken, or to shoot fine Branches on their extremities: In that Case, as I have declared more at large in the

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Treatise of Pruning, we must not only take away a great part of the Fruit which is aready knit upon them, but even shorten the Branch extreamly, and that to that part from which the finest Shoot proceeds; for otherwise certainly the best part of the Fruit would drop before its being Ripe, or at least would remain very small, and Consequently bad, it being most certain, especially as to Stone Fruit, that unless they approach to that Size which is proper to their kind, they never attain the delicacy they ought to have. The Peaches remain Shaggy and Green, and do not quit the stone; they are Sowrish, and Bitterish, the Pulp is Rough and Course, and often Mealy, the Stone is much larger than it should be, all which are certain Marks of an ill Peach.

Fourthly, The Pears which remain in too great a Number, are apt not only to hinder each other from thickning, but likewise to Rot, the Air and the Wind not having a free passage about them; this Inconveniency is sufficient to Inform us, that part of them must be taken away, that the remainder may be at more Liberty and Ease.

In my Opinion, it is very necessary to Observe in this Place, that it is absolutely necessary, especially in relation to Winter Bon Chrestien Pears, in the Months of April and May, which is the time in which they begin to appear Knit and Form'd, to be greatly Careful to destroy small Black Caterpillars which are very numorous at that Season, which other∣wise would gnaw the Rind of those Pears, which is the Reason we often meet with them crooked and uneven.

CHAP. II.

To Learn to uncover, at a proper Time, certain Fruits which require it.

FRUITS being thus pick'd upon every Tree, they thicken by degrees under the Leaf, some more, others less, every one according to its kind, some sooner and others later, each according to the time Nature has design'd for their Maturity; but whereas the Red, or Carnation Colour are necessary to certain Fruits, which may receive it, if not hinder'd, or not have it if hinder'd, (for there are some which absolutely can never attain it, what ever may be done, for Instance, White Peaches, Verte Longue, or Long-Green, Green Sugar Pears, White Figs, &c. there are likewise others, which, thonever so cover'd, ever receives the Colour of their Kind, for example Cherries, Rasberries, Strawberries, &c.

Whereas, I say, Colour as to certain Fruits, is a very material condition, in order to render them the more valuable, and that they can never attain that Colour in Ripening, unless the Rays of the Sun light directly upon them, it is proper at certain times to remove some Leaves which shade them too much, and consequently are prejudicial to them, in relation to that Colouring; nay more, they are prejudicial as to the Maturity of those Fruits, it being most certain for the generality, that a Fruit, much cover'd with Leaves, cannot Ripen altogether so soon as another, which is more expos'd, and moreover has not so much delicacy.

But a great deal of Prudence and Discretion must be us'd in this case; and care taken not to uncover Fruits until they have almost attain'd their proper size, and begin to lose the great Greenness they had till then; Fruits begin to thicken from the moment they are Knit, until the beginning of June; and afterwards, as Gard'ners say, they re∣main for a considerable space in a kind of Lethargy without thickening, at least Visibly; for I do not question but they thicken a little, and that above all some Matter enters into the Inside of the Body of the Fruit, since the Roots are continually preparing some, and sending it immediately upwards; this matter indeed remains press'd under the Rind, which is the reason Fruit is so hard at that time; but finally the time which is regulated for their Maturity approaching, this very matter, tho' condens'd, begins to rarify, and to extend in few days, whereby the Fruits begin to sosten and thicken more, and consequently to approach to Maturity.

This is the only proper time to uncover them, at two or three different times, and that during the space of five or six days; for if they wereuncover'd sooner, or all at once, the great heat of the Sun would certainly occasion a great disorder upon that tender

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Rind, not yet accustom'd to the open Air; this truth is confirm'd by too many Experi∣ences, when either through the Ignorance of an unskilful Gard'ner, or by some unlucky Frosts, the Fruits are uncover'd before that time; the same cause which splits the Rind of Fruits, likewise dries up the Stalks, and Consequently the Fruit Withers and Rots, as it happens pretty often in Vinyards, which at the beginning of Autumn, are afflicted with some over hastly Frosts.

Let us return to the Colour, which is desirable for most Fruits, and say that it Imprints it self in few days on those that have been long cover'd, as it appears by Peaches, Apricocks, and especially on the Quince Apples, &c. and that therefore those are much to blame, who neglect the procuring of so great an advantage to their Fruit, when it is so easily done. Moreover, in order to render that Colour more Bright and Lively, it is not improper, to use a kind of Seringe made on purpose, with several little holes at the end of the Spout, like those of a Watering Pot, to water them twice or thrice a day, during the greatest heat of the Sun: Such a watering softens the Rind, and is of wonderful use to that end; especially for Apricocks and Peaches, and it likewise succeeds well for Bon Chreten Pears, and Vergoules, &c. Which remain somewhat Whitish, and which having a fine thin Rind, are Consequently susceptible to receive that fine Colour, which becomes them so well.

CHAP. III.

Of the Maturity of Fruits, and the Order Nature observes in it.

IN fine Fruits, having attain'd their Size and Colour, and the time of their Maturity being arriv'd, it behoves us to improve those rich Presents which Nature treats us with; it is a Liberality, or rather a Profusion it yearly bestows upon us, as if it thereby delighted to recompence the Cares, and Industry of the skilful Gard'ner which Culti∣vates it.

Two things are to be Consider'd in every Fruit, the Pulp of the Fruit and the Seed of the Fruit, the Pulp which is proper for the Nourishment of Man, and the Seed which lying in the heart of that Fruit as in a Sccabberd, receives its perfection by degrees, as the Pulp makes an end of Ripening; this perfection of Seed being apparently design'd for the Multiplication of the Specie of that Fruit; but this I only speak by the by, yet it appears often that the Seed is of no use at all.

Perhaps it may be urg'd in relation to that Seed or Fruit, that Nature seems to perform in Trees, in respect to its Fruits, the same thing in part, which it performs in Animals, in relation to their Young ones; No body can be Ignorant of the extraordinary earnestness of Animals to Nourish and Preserve their Young, and that to a certain Point, that is until they attain that perfection of Size, and Strength, which every one stands in need of, either to Subsist of themselves, or to labour afterwards to perpetuate their kind at the times which Nature prescribes

Insomuch, that till then those Animals Fathers and Mothers, can hardly suffer, without resistance, nay sometimes without Fury and Cruelty, any Body to touch, much less to take away their Young ones; but when those Young ones are grown big, Nature endea∣vouring on one side to Employ those Fathers and Mothers with the Care of a new Mul∣tiplication, and on the other hand to excite those Young ones, as it were, to make a Fi∣gure in their kind, inclines those Fathers and Mothers to abandon them, and to cease Nourishing and Protecting of them; insomuch that those Young ones being grown big, shift for themselves, no longer looking upon the Authors of their Being, or keeping them Company, otherwise than as indifferent Strangers.

Thus we see that Trees, which are really the Fathers of the Fruits, take care for a while to nourish those Fruits, and to preserve them, as if, if I may use the Expression, they Suckled, or Hatch'd, or Heated them with their Leaves, and that to a certoin Point, that is, until they are come to the full Perfection of their Size, and Maturity: But then, Nature seeing them in a Condition not only of Subsisting without the assistance of the Father that has produc'd them, but likewise of Perpetuating and Multiplying their diffe∣rent kinds, seems to withdraw the affection of the Tree; Insomuch, that before that time the Fruit seems to stick closer to the Tree than it does afterward: But when those Fruits cease

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to receive the wonted help, they no longer stand in need of, and sticking no longer to the Tree by the former Tye, they quit their Father and Mother, they drop, they keep asunder, and lastly are abandon'd to themselves, &c.

As to the Pulp of those Fruits, it is to be Noted, that the degree which approaches nearest to what we call Rotteness, (which is their destruction,) is the perfection of their Maturity, insomuch, that they are never perfectly good to Eat, until being absolutely Ripe, they are near spoiling.

Therefore, unless the Gard'ner be careful to gather his Fruits, and make use of them, when they are entirely Ripe, he will be in danger of seeing them perish, some through a Rotteness, which begins at first in some part of the Body, as it happens with most Apples, and others by growing Mealy, as Peaches, some by growing Soft first, as many Pears do, especially such as are Tender, as Butter-Pears, others by growing Dry and Shaggy, as most Musc-Pears do; all which are different ways Conducing to Rotteness and Destruction. When this happens, Man is Subject to some inward checks of Nature, which seems to reproach him for his not having been Capable of Improving her Liberalities towards him.

It might be question'd in this Place what Maturity is, and how it is perform'd, both which questions are pretty agreeable, but of no great use to a Gard'ner. First, as to the Definition of Maturity, perhaps considering the great Proximity between it and Cor∣ruption, we can hardly give a better, than to say, that it is a beginning of Corrup∣tion.

The Truth is, that in speaking of a thing which passes for a Perfection, it seems pretty odd to make use of a Term, which expresses defect, and is really disgusting; but then to soften the signification of that Expression, it will suffice to say, that there are several degrees of Corruption; many Fruits are Corrupted and Rotten, without ever having been Ripe, which Corruption is a real defect, without the least Perfection. On the Con∣trary there are other Fruits, which never begin to Corrupt unless they have attain'd the utmost degree of Perfect Maturity, which Corrupion is really a defect for the Fruit, but is at the same time a Perfection for the Eater: Thus we may say, that a Piece of Wood which becomes a Circle, receives a degree of Corruption in relation to it self, since it ceases to have the Figure which Nature had given it, but it receives a Perfection in relation to the Workman, who forces it to take that bend, which it stands in need of for his use.

As to the manner, how Maturity is perform'd, the difficulty is much greater, and more puzling; for tho the Sun shining directly upon the Trees seems the only Author of the Maturity, of the Summer Fruits, by means of the Air, to which it has given a proper degree of Heat; yet we cannot say in general, that it is the only and last Author of the perfect Maturity of all manner of Fruits, since those which are gather'd without being Ripe, Ripen of themselves in the Store-House, where the Sun no longer shines directly upon them.

Therefore, it will be more proper and more likely to say, that the Sun indeed begins the Maturity of those Fruits, which remain upon the Tree, to a certain degree of Per∣fection, without which the Fruits shrink and spoil, without having enjoy'd the benefit of the real way of a good Maturity, and that after this the greatest Crudity having been thus consum'd by the Heat of the Sun, as all Natural Bodies are Subject to Corrupt, some sooner, others later; one part of the Fruits of the Store-House arrive at last to the Period of their Existance, which often proves the Point of an agreeable Maturity; another part likewise meets its end in a precipitated Rottenness, which may proceed either from too much Cold, or too much Heat, or too much Moisture, &c.

We might likewise Please our selves with asking, whether those Fruits, which are soonest Ripe, are better for the Health of Man, than those which are longer before they attain their Maturity. The like question might be made, as to those that are Perfum'd, and those that are not; such as have Kernels, and such as have Stones, &c. But whereas those Gallantries are of no use to the matter in hand, I shall Wave them, and proceed to the Instructions that are necessary, in order to learn to gather Fruits Seasonably, without losing my Time in needless Philosophy.

First, Then, Care must be taken to understand that Maturity rightly, as also that not only every kind of Fruit has a time, or regulated Season for its Maturity, but likewise that of every Particular Fruit in its Season, some have as it were, about Week to be good in, and no more, as the Rousselets or Russetins, Beurre or Butter-Pears, Bur∣gamets, Verte-Longue or Long-Green, &c. others not above a Day or two, and nothing beyond it, as Figs, Cherries, most Peaches, &c. some have a great deal longer, as Grapes,

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Apples, and most Winter Fruits, for Instance, an Apple or Bon Chrestien Pear, will be good to Eat for a Month or six Weeks together.

Moreover, it must be Noted, that every kind of Fruit has its peculiar marks of Matu∣rity, either such as Ripen upon the Tree, or such as only Ripen some time after their be∣ing gather'd.

Altho Generally the Common time of Maturity of every kind, is within the Compass of the knowledg and understanding of Common Gard'ners, who commonly are pretty able to distinguish which are Summer, which Autumn, and which Winter Fruits, &c. Yet it is certain that the singular Marks of the Maturity of every Fruit in particular, to take them in the very nick of time, that is, the precise time of their Maturity, those Marks, I say, are properly reserv'd for the knowledg of a Gentleman who will use some Application a∣bout it, without which nothing is more Common than to see Fruits serv'd, either before their being Ripe, that is before they are good, or else pass'd Fruits, that is, too Ripe, and Consequently nought, and that at a time too, when without doubt, there are others, which having attain'd a just Maturity might supply the Room of those, and which for want of being us'd at that time, have the misfortune to lose their Delicacy, and the Value they deserv'd.

One would think that there were but little to be said upon the Subject of this Maturity of Fruits, and yet the extream Application I have us'd about it for a long while, has cou∣vinc'd me of the Contrary. And whereas all the Expence, all the Care, and all the Pains People have been at, to get Fruit, would prove vain, if having Compass'd it, they were still at a loss, not knowing how to make the good se of it they propos'd, I think my self Oblig'd not to Omit the least Circumstance of any thing that may seem Useful to that End.

I have already fully Explain'd in the Treatise of the Choice and Proportion of Fruits, which are the Fruits not only of every Season, but even those which are of every Month, so that perhaps it would be tiresome and needless to Repeat it here; so that the only thing in Question now is, to give a true Explication of what Relates to the Particulars of the Maturity of every Fruit, and if Possible to give the World a greater Insight into that Knowledg, than it has had hitherto.

Above all things, I would have an Ingenious Gard'ner so well Skill'd in that Point, as never to Present any of his Fruits, Especially of those that are Tender and Mellow, as Peaches, Figs, Plums, or Pears, unless they were in a just degree of Maturity, in so much that those they are presented to, may take the very first, without the least fear of being Disappointed, or at least may be able to chuse with the Eye, without being reduc'd to Picking, and Squeezing, that is to spoil the Fruit, before they can meet with any to their liking.

My Intention is, that this Picking and Squeezing, which hitherto may have been Par∣donable, or Tollerable, shall no longer be allowable, unless it be at the Tavern, or among ordinary People, and such as have little or no nicety, or else such as have no Fruit but what they Buy at the Market: And even there I would not have those Squeezers, Squeeze any where but near the Stalk, and that gently too, Sticking to the first which yields to the Thumb, to the End that one Part only may be tainted by this Squeezing (which occasions a beginning of Rottenness) besides they may assure them∣selves, that whatever Fruit is Ripe near the Stalk, is sufficiently so every where.

One of the most Considerable Defects I am to Combat here, is the Precipitation wherewith I observe most of the Curious are inclin'd, to begin betimes to Cause the Fruits of every Season to be Eaten; nothing is more Common than to see that when People have begun ill, they continue during all the Season to Eat their Fruit ill Condition'd, by reason that as Naturally the desire of Eating Fruit continues from the Moment we have begun to do it, it commonly happens, that in gathering the Second or Third time we commit the same Fault we had been guilty of at the First; whereas if we tarry to Eat those that are in Season until we have a sufficient quantity Ripe to give, we have ever after the satisfaction of Eating none but such as are incomparably good.

Therefore, I advise all Gard'ners never to begin gathering until there be a visible Appearance of a happy Continuance.

I am likewise to Combat another great Defect, of some of the Curious, which is sel∣dom or never to serve any Fruits until they be pass'd, the Number of those is very con∣siderable: Their fear of its not lasting long enough, or of not having enough for some occasion or other, or rather their Ignorance in point of Maturity, occasions all this disor∣der: Therefore I will Endeavour to Remedy those two Defects.

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But first, I cannot forbear to admire, in this place, the Providence of Nature, not only in what relates to the succession of that Maturity, which we see in relation to every kind of Fruit, commonly to make the one Ripen in one Season, and the other in another; but also in what relates to the Order of the succession of the Maturity of the Fruits of every Tree in particular, which it conducts to Maturity by degrees; as if it really intend∣ed to allow Man, for the Nourishment of whom it seems to have produc'd them, time to consume them all, without suffering any to perish: And, indeed, it is observable, that Nature likewise observes the same Order for the forming, and the opening of the Blos∣soms of Trees, and Plants, which produce Fruit, as it does for Plants which only produce Flowers; for instance, Hiacints, Tuberoses, Carnations, &c. the Buds whereof only open by degrees, as if design'd thereby, the longer to delight the Senses of Humane Creatures.

In effect, tho' every Blossom of a Tree does not commonly last above four or five days in its perfection, yet every Tree appears in Blossom for a Fortnight, or three Weeks to∣gether, which certainly proceeds from that the Blossoms are Originally form'd, and after∣wards open one after another; those that are form'd first, open first, as those that Blossom first, have the advantage of producing those Fruits which ripen first; thus the second and third Blossoms, which are like so many younger Sisters, successively form'd after the El∣der, seem to perfect themselves, while those delight our Eyes; those second, and third Blossoms, I say, in imitation of a well-regulated Family, are not to open, and shew themselves, until the Elders have had their Career; so that those Elder fading, in order to produce the first Fruits of their Season, the young ones appear, to form those Fruits which are to be the second, and third, in Ripening, &c.

Although we have observ'd in every Tree an order in the succession of the Maturity of the Fruits, in relation to each other; we do not find this same Order of Succession of Ma∣turity observ'd for the Fruits of another Tree, of a certain kind, in respect to the Fruits of another Tree, which is of another certain kind, whether both have Blossom'd at one and the same time, or whether the one have Blossom'd sooner, the other later: For instance, all Peach-Trees Blossom at the same time, and yet some Peaches Ripen about the middle of August, and others do not Ripen 'till towards the end of October; and likewise other Fruit-Trees, either Pear, Apple, or Plum-Trees Blossom almost all in one and the same Month, and yet that kind which Blossoms first, does not always Ripen first; Nature Orders it otherwise, which I can give no Reason for: The Pear of Naples for Instance, is the first that Blossoms, and almost the last which comes to Maturity.

Therefore, as it is most certain, that Fruits ripen one after another, so it is likewise true, that, as Aurora Ushers in, or declares the coming of the Sun, so the Maturity of Fruits is declar'd, or preceeded by some particular marks, the knowledge of which, I have made it my business to study; and I am of Opinion, that I shall oblige the Curious, by acquainting them with my Observations.

'Tis certainly very difficult to be very exact as to the precise time of the just maturity of Fruits: Nothing is so common as to be deceiv'd therein, as we have already declar'd, either in gathering them too soon, or too late; besides, there are some in which the Point of Maturity is so momentary, as the white Butter-Pear, the Maudlin-Pear, the Doyeinné, the White of Andilly, &c. that whatever Care be taken, it is almost impossible to hit that Point of Maturity exactly, it passes so swiftly, when once 'tis come; neither am I fond of having many of those kind of Fruits.

As nothing is more delightful than to eat well-condition'd Fruits, nothing can be more disagreeable than to eat them green, or over-ripe: Not but in my Opinion, this last defect is less tolerable than the first, by reason that all Fruit that is over-ripe, far from having any tast, is commonly insipid, and mealy; whereas Fruit that is not quite ripe enough, though on the one side it may set the Teeth on edge, yet on the other it discovers part of its Vertue, by the briskness of its tast, and by its Pulp drawing near perfection; most Wo∣men in this, will be of my Opinion.

Moreover, as in this particular Case of Maturity we have two sorts of Fruit, of which, the one are good, from the moment they are gather'd; for instance, all Stone Fruits, some Summer-Pears, and all Red-Fruits, &c. it follows, that none of those should be ga∣ther'd until they be ripe, by reason, that how little time soever their Maturity may last, they preserve themselves much better, and longer upon the Stock than they would do be∣ing gather'd: There are other Fruits which are only good sometime after their being ga∣ther'd; for Example, most Kernel-Fruits that are Mellow, and constantly all Autumn, and Winter-Fruits. In Order to give true Rules to understand the Maturity of all man∣ner of Fruits, I think it will not be improper to begin here with those that are fit to be eaten as soon as gather'd; I shall not mention the others, until I come to the Treatise of the Store-Houses, or Fruit-Rooms.

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CHAP. IV.

How to judge of the Maturity and Goodness of Fruits.

THree of our Senses have the gift of judging of the appearances of the Maturity of Fruits, Viz. Sight, Feeling for the most part, and Smelling for some, I say only to judge of the appearances, for the Tast is the only and real Judge to whom it belongs to Judge Solidly, and without appeal, as well of the Maturity, as of the Goodness, it is sufficiently known that there are some Fruits which are neither good nor agreeable to the Pallat, tho' actually ripe.

Sometimes one Sense alone is sufficient, to Judge certainly of the appearances, and even of the reality; for instance, the Eye alone suffices for all Red Fruits, and for Grapes, &c. it Judges with certainty of the Ripeness of a Cherry, a Strawberry, a Raspberry, a Bunch of Red, or Black Grapes; when both the one and the other are all over Painted with that fine Colour, which is natural to them: And on the contrary, when any part does want it, the Eye thereby judges, that it is an infallible Mark, that all the rest is not yet arriv'd to its just Maturity.

So likewise, Feeling alone judges very well of the apparent and effective Maturity of Tender Mellow Pears, whatever they be; so that even the Blind are as able to judge of it by feeling, as the most clear Sighted, both by seeing, and touching.

Sometimes it is necessary to imploy two of our Senses, Seeing, and Feeling, barely to Judge of the appearance of Maturity; for Example, for Figs, Plums, and Peaches, and even Apricocks, it not being sufficient for a Peach to appear ripe upon the Tree by its Beautiful Colour, red on the one side, and yellowish on the other, thereby to judge that it is fit for gathering; neither does it suffice after their being gather'd, for them to be with∣out Stalks, besides this fine Colouring, though commonly it is a good Mark, the Stalk al∣ways sticking to those kind of Fruits, until their being ripe, at which time the Fruit quits it with ease, and the Stalk remains fix'd to the Tree; but whereas this Stalk may have been sever'd violently, their appearing without a Stalk, may chance to prove a false Mark of Maturity.

Those Signs alone, as to those kind of Fruits, I say are not sufficient, to Judge abso∣lutely by the Eye of their Maturity, the Hand must likewise act its part, and concur therein, tho' not to touch it roughly upon the Tree (nothing is more offensive to me than those Gropers, who, to gather one according to their Mind, will spoil a hundred by the violent impression of their Unskillful Thumb) but I would have the Hand play its part in the manner I shall explain hereafter.

The Hand must likewise be us'd for a Peach that is ready gather'd, when we are not certain it was gather'd by a Skillful Hand, but then it must be perform'd very gently, and that, as I have already said, near the Stalk.

In case it be a Fig, whether gather'd, or not, it is allowable to touch it gently with the end of the Finger, almost in the same manner as a Chyrurgeon feels for the Vein in order to Bleed; for in case that Fig, after having appear'd to the Eye of a yellowish Colour, a shrivel'd Rind, with some Crannies, the Head hanging down, and the Body shrunk, likewise appears very Mellow under the Finger, and that being still upon the Tree, may be loosen'd by the least motion, it is very sit for gathering, and without doubt ripe, and good: But if, notwithstanding all those fine appearances, and all this Mystery, it does not easily quit the Tree, the gathering of it must be deferr'd for some days, it is never per∣fectly good, while it resists in gathering.

When a Fig having all the good Marks of Maturity, has been gather'd by a Skillful Gard'ner, and is afterwards presented to any body, they may freely, and without any rough feeling, judge it to be fit to receive, and eat.

We may say the same thing of a Plum ready gather'd, that is, that if besides the Beau∣tiful Colour it ought to have, which satisfies the Eye, and the Mellowness which Skillful Fingers have discover'd, without offering it any violence, it proves without a Stalk, being a little shrivel'd, and wither'd on that side; it may be inferr'd from thence, that it is per∣fectly ripe, and consequently fit to take.

Likewise if this Plum being still upon the Tree, finely Colour'd for the Eye, and Mel∣low for the Finger, comes off with ease, without a Stalk, it is without doubt fully ripe, but if not, like the Fig, itmust be left some days longer upon the Tree.

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Two things may be inferr'd from this remark about the Stalk, the first is, that it must not stick to some kind of Fruits when they are ripe; for instance, Peaches, Plums, Straw-berries, Raspberries, &c. insomuch that none of those Fruits should be eaten, while the Stalk sticks close to them; and the second, that it may, and ought to stick to others, tho' never so ripe; for Example, to Figs, Cherries, Pears, Apples, &c. to which, the Stalks serve as an agreeable Ornament, and their being without it, would be a kind of Defect.

After having demonstrated, that in some Fruits, for Example, Red Fruits, the Eye alone is sufficient to judge of their Maturity, and in others, as Tender Mellow Pears, the feel∣ing only; as also that some others require both Seeing, and Feeling, Viz. Peaches, Plums, Figs, &c. we may add, that there are still some others in which Smelling may be ad∣mitted with Sight, in order to Judge with more certainty, for instance, Melons, after ha∣ving approv'd their Colour, Stalk, and Beautiful Figure, and examin'd their Ponderous∣ness, it is not improper to smell to them before we cut them, to be able, as 'tis thought, thereby to judge with more certainty of their Maturity, and Goodness, tho' at the same time I am convinc'd, that those which have the best scent, or savour, are not commonly the best: This Maxim is sufficiently well establish'd.

But, in fine, generally speaking, all the Marks above explain'd, to distinguish Matu∣rity, may chance not to be certain, and infallible; they are Exteriour Signs, which might be term'd Signs of Phisiognomy, and Consequently deceitful, something more is necessary in this Case, it requires matter of Fact; and therefore, as we have already declar'd, Tast only can decide in this Point; and, if I may use that Expression, that only can affix the Seal, and the Character of an absolute Decree, as a Judgment, which is to be Pronounc'd, particularly in the Case of Goodness; for let the Exteriour Marks be never so fa∣vourable, unless the Peach, Plum, and Melon please the Pallat, after having pleas'd the other Senses, as it happens sometimes, all the Preliminaries are useless; therefore we must submit all to the Pallat, however with this scruple, which I cannot remove, for the establishing of real goodness, which is, that Tasts are very different in themselves, and that a thing which may please one Man's Pallat, may displease another's: But this discussion is out of my Province; the Ancient Maxim (de Gustibus) forbids my med∣ling with it, and thus I can only speak of my own in particular, and at the same time applaud those who have the good Fortune of liking that which does not seem good to me: It would be Ridiculous in me to endeavour disabusing of them, since probably I shou'd only lose my labour.

CHAP. V.

Of the Causes of the forwardness, or backwardness of Maturity, in all manner of Fruits.

Fruits Ripen sooner, or later, first, according as the Months of April, and May are more or less warm, to cause the Trees to Blossom, or Knit.

Secondly, according as those Fruits grow against a good Wall, or good Shelter, that is, expos'd to the South, or East; and, in fine, particularly according as they are in a hot Climate, and light Earth.

All which Considerations are very material for the forwardness of Fruits; for the Months of April and May proving hot, the Fruits knitting the sooner, they will consequently ri∣pen the sooner; witness the maturity of Melons, which is an undeniable Truth; Fruits being, as it were, in respect to their Maturity, like Bread, in respect to its being Bak'd the sooner, or later, according to the time of its being put into the Oven.

When Fruits, tho' knit betimes, are in the open Air, or only against some Walls ex∣pos'd to the West, or North, &c. they will advance but little, for want of the assistance of the heats of the Spring, and likewise, if notwithstanding the advantage of a pretty hot Season, and happy exposure, they are in a Cold Climate, nay, tho' in a moderate Clime, the Earth being Course, and consequently Cold, they will not ripen so soon, as those which have all things favourable.

For Example, all manner of Fruits ripen sooner, in Languedoc, and Provence, which are hot Soils, than in the Neighbourhood of Paris, and even in those parts of Paris Fruits Ripen much sooner within the City it self, and in the Subburbs of St. Anthony, and St.

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Germans, as well as at Vincennes, at Maisons, Carriere, &c. where the Earth is light, and hot, than they do at Versailles, where the Ground is cold, and course.

All those places are too near one another, to impute those differences in point of Matu∣rity to the Sun; besides, there is a difference between the immediate heat of the Sun in respect to the maturity of Fruits, and the immediate heat of the Fire, in respect to the Meat it Rosts, or Boils, Fire first affecting the Exteriour parts of the Meat which are nearest to it, before it performs its Function on the inside, which is at more distance; whereas the Sun Ripens the inward parts, before the Exteriour; in effect, the inward part of Fruits always Ripens first, and soften first, and likewise commonly is the soonest spoil'd.

If I may be allow'd to declare the Reason which to me seems most plausible in this Point, I shall say, in the first place, that Maturity proceeds from two Causes, the one near and immediate, which is the heated Air, the other not indirect, and distant, and that is the Sun which heats that Air; so that the Function of the Sun is to heat the Air as much as the Winds will allow; and the Function of the Air so heated, is to impart its heat to the Earth, and so to all the Plants; this Earth thus heated, causes first the Principle of Life which lies near the Root to Act, and then the Root it self, which consequently pre∣pares Sap as soon as it is put in Action; and that Sap, at the same time, rises to perform its Function into all the Superiour parts, where it can penetrate.

In the second place, I shall say, that the Air of every Climate is in probability compos'd, or at least considerably mix'd with the Vapours, and Exhalations which rise from the Earth of that Climate, which in my Opinion, is the Reason of Peoples saying, that the Air of such a Country is good, and the Air of such another is bad.

Thirdly, I shall say, that it follows from thence, that that Air is more or less easie to be heated, according as the Earth, from which those Vapours rise, is more or less cold, and material; for those Vapours participate altogether to the Nature of that Earth, and therefore that as in light Earths the Air sooner receives the impression of heat, by reason of its being form'd by more subtle Vapours, it consequently the sooner heats both that Earth, and the whole Body of the Tree, and the Plant it nourishes; which is the Rea∣son that it is the Roots being sooner heated at such times, and in such Earth, and con∣sequently the Saps being sooner prepar'd, which form inwardly in those Fruits the first degrees of Maturity.

Therefore it is certain, that the Air, according to its being more or less thick, is also more or less apt to receive heat; and that according to its degrees of heat, it either ad∣vances, or does not advance Maturity, as it has advanc'd, or not advanc'd the heat of the Earth.

Therefore the forwardness, or backwardness of Maturity, depends on the Conditions above explain'd, in so muuch, that they must all Combine; that is, that Fruit in order to Ripen betimes, must Knit betimes; and next, must meet with a favourable Exposure, a hot Clime, and light Earth.

CHAP. VI.

Of the Particular Marks of Maturity in every kind of Fruit, and first of Summer-Fruits, which Ripen altogether upon the Tree.

ACcording to the Natural Order of the Maturity of Fruits of every Season, the Ho∣nour of Eldership certainly belongs to early Cherries, and next to Strawberries, Raspberries, and Goosberries, &c. The first commonly begin to appear in the Month of May, and that a little sooner, or a little later, according as the Conditions we have Ex∣plain'd, are more or less favourable: Strawberries begin to Blossom about the middle of April, or a little before, in good Situations, and in cold places, not before the latter end of April, or in the beginning of May; and happily, none of those small Frosts which are apt to blacken, and spoil those first Blossoms intervening, Ripe Strawberries may be expected at a Months end: And as for early Cherries that have Blossom'd about the middle of March, we may expect to have them about the beginning of May, not altogether Ripe, but half Red, with which Colour they may serve as well, as if they had attain'd a full Ma∣turity, since they are only considerable, and valued for their Novelty, especially by La∣dies;

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for after all, at that time it is only a little colour'd Cloak, which only serves to co∣ver a little sower Pulp, and a large Stone; and therefore they stand in need of the assi∣stance of a Confectioner, to require an Excellency, which the Gard'ner, or rather the Sun has not had time to afford them.

The Trees of a pretty Cold Climate Blossom almost as soon as those of a Climate that is somewhat hotter, by Reason that the opening of those Blossoms seems to be perform'd independantly from the Action of the Roots, witness the Branches that Blossom, being Cut, (the bare force of the Rarefaction caus'd in the Bud, by the presence of the first Rays of the Sun, is capable of producing this Effect) but as for the maturity of every Fruit, it can only be perform'd, and perfected; First, by a great Concurrency of the Operation of the Roots, and Secondly, by a certain degree of Heat in the Air, which is necessary for the Perfection of that Master-piece: Now this Heat, both in the Earth, and in the Air, can only proceed regularly from the Rays of the Sun; and yet I dare affirm, that I have been so happy as to imitate it in little for some small Fruits; I have made some to Ripen five or six Weeks before their time; for instance, Strawberries at the end of March, and Pease in April, Figs in June, Asparagus, and Cabbage-Lettuce in December, January, &c. But we can find no facilitations to imitate this Heat in Great, to cause the Fruits of Large Trees to Ripen in an extraordinary manner; therefore it is apparent, that tho' Nature has abandon'd the Earth to us, leaving it in our Power to Heat some Portion thereof, to make it produce against its will, by means of a Foreign borrow'd Heat, what we have a mind to; has, notwithstanding, reserv'd to it self in a particular manner, the Universal Faculty of the maturity of Fruits; this maturity in relation to us, is the Finisher, and Perfection of the production of the Earth; in so much, that without it, all our Cares and Industry for the generality, only afford us some hopes, which often prove false, and deluding.

I have said heretofore, that we may begin to have some early Cherries, in the Month of May, those small Fruits have an open Field at that Time, they are the only that ap∣pear in our Gardens, and that grace our Tables; they are Rival'd by no others until the end of the Month, which is the time of the displaying or opening the Grand Magazine of the other Red Fruits; and these remain in possession until the end of June, and to∣wards the middle of July; for the early Cherries which seldom appear but in China-Dishes, and in small quantity, are follow'd close by Strawberries, with this difference; that these, to endear themselves the more, above the Cherries that have preceeded them, appear with a Charming scent, and in prodigious quantity; that is, in full Basons, and would think themselves disgrac'd to appear as poorly attended, as their Predecessors.

Among these Strawberries some are Red, and others White, the last are seldom Ripe until they are grown yellowish, and the others are never good, until they are perfectly and Universally Red; and neither of them are eatable, until they have attain'd a Con∣siderable size.

I may say by the by, that those Strawberries that are soonest Ripe, are those that have Blossom'd first, and that those that are nearest to the body of the Plant, are those that Blossom'd first; I will draw some Instructions in the Treatise of the Kitchen-Garden, in order to our getting of them always Finer, Larger, and Better, from that part, than otherwise we should do.

The Strawberries that grow Naturally, and of themselves, which most People are fond of, are accompany'd towards the middle of June with Red and White Raspberries, Cur∣rans, Hearts, and Plain Cherries, of which, some are somewhat earlier, and not so good; others later, which are larger, and sweeter, and better, either Preserv'd, or Raw: Bigar∣reaux also come in among them, and even Morrello's, but commonly they both tarry until the hurry of Red Fruits is somewhat over; not but they might appear sooner, for really those Bigarreaux, and Morrello's are admirable Fruits: The first are Ripe, as soon as they are half Red, but the others do not attain their perfection of maturity, until they are almost Black. The order of the maturity of all those Fruits is the same with what we declar'd for the Strawberries, that which has Blossom'd first in every Tree, likewise Ripens soonest.

Here's the Month of June provided for, it is call'd the Month of Red Fruits, and with Reason: For those kind of Fruits are met with wherever one goes; we have said that the marks of their maturity is that Red Colour which surrounds them; it commonly begins at that part which is most immediately expos'd to the Sun, and is soonest Ripe; In fine, by degrees that Colour spreads all over, and when the liveliness of that Red begins to turn to an obscure Red, excepting only the Morello's, they draw towards Cor∣ruption.

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Among Red Fruits, those that have Stones, tho' never so ripe, do not easily loosen from the Branch, as other Fruits do, they wither upon it, instead of falling, they must be pluck'd off, and that with some Violence.

All those kind of Red Fruits should be the only ones during the whole Month of June to fill up the Stage of the maturity of the Fruits of that Season, but that some Espaliers, expos'd to the South, in Dry Sandy Grounds, begin to produce towards the end of June some little Muscat-Pears, and some early Musck-Peaches.

Those small Pears are Extraordinary good, if they be allow'd the time of Ripening; the first marks of their maturity appear in them as in all other Pears of every Season, that is near the Stalk, which part must appear a little yellowish, and somewhat Transparent; and afterwards, for a greater mark of full maturity, that yellowness must appear a little through a certain Tan'd Colour, and a certain Red, which covers the remainder of the Rind; and Lastly, they must begin to drop of themselves, without any exterior violence; at which time it will be proper to gather, and eat them. I have sufficiently declar'd my Opinion as to the goodness of that Pear, in the Choice of Fruits.

When People do not allow themselves the time of examining about the Stalk of the Pears, to judge of their maturity; they must, as I have said, judge by the natural drop∣ping of those kind of Pears, but then the Worms must have no share in it, and they must neither be grown upon a sick Tree, nor upon a sick Branch; Pears that are infected with Worms drop soonest, and soonest seem Ripe, without really being so, their defect is not much conceal'd, it appears generally in the middle of the Eye of the Pear, and when it does, there's no depending upon it for good Fruit.

All manner of Fruits, borh Stone, and Kernel, Ripen sooner upon sickly Trees, than upon sound ones; but we must not suffer our selves to be deceiv'd by the size, for it often happens, especially in relation to Peach-Trees, that the Fruits of those languishing Trees are larger than those which grow upon Vigorous Trees; but then that Largeness, as I may say, is only a swelling, or a kind of Dropsie, which is the Reason that the Pulp of those Fruits, that are larger than they should be, is generally insipid, or bitter, and disgusting.

Peaches that drop of themselves, are contrary to what we have been saying of Pears; by reason that Peaches which drop thus of themselves, or loosen, are commonly pass'd, and consequently naught, in so much, that they should not be presented as good to any body, tho' not bruis'd by the fall, as it happens commonly.

But that Rule does not commonly extend to small Peaches in their kind, nor especially to early or late Purple Peaches, nor to Pavies; those kind of Fruits which can hardly ever be too ripe, are commonly very good when they drop, insomuch, that when they drop without being shook, it is a good mark of their Maturity, as well as Goodness.

The same thing may be said of Plums, since we always shake Plum-Trees in order to get good Plums; tho' indeed this Method is more particularly for common Plums, than for Perdrigons, Rochecourbons, and other Principal Plums, by reason that one of their Chief Excellencies consisting in the Flowry Beauty of their Complexion, the which excites the Appetite of the most moderate: A fall, or their being finger'd too much, spoils that Flower which should be preserv'd carefully; therefore those that are really Curious, never touch them otherwise than with the extremity of two Fingers.

Let us now return to our early Peaches, and say, that the Part which ripens first in them, as well as in all other Fruits, Pears, Peaches, Plums, Apricooks, Melons, &c. is commonly the inward part, I mean, that which is nearest to the Stone, and moreover, that which in relation to them appears first ripe to the eye, is directly contrary to what we have said of Pears; for whereas in Pears that part which is nearest to the Stalk ripens first, in these it is commonly the Extremity which is opposite to the Stalk, by reason that that part enjoys the benefit of the Sun sooner, and longer than any other; but when the Beams of the Sun lay upon no part of these early Peaches, it seems that the heat which Reigns in the Air, ripens them all over equally.

We begin to Judge of their approaching Maturity, when we perceive that they begin to thicken extreamly (which we call taking Pulp) and when at the same time, their green whitens considerably, and their down begins to fall; but unfortunately for those poor Fruits, or rather for Nice Pallats, and such as have Skill; those first appearances of ma∣turity are commonly mistaken for perfect maturity, and so they are gather'd, while they are still as hard as Stones, instead of staying until they are grown Mellow, as they should be; and therefore, excepting a few of the first, which are serv'd pretty unseasonably, most of them pass through the fire, before they appear at Table.

I must not omit saying in this place, that the Peaches which do not attain the size their kind requires, commonly drop before their being ripe, and when they seem to ripen,

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their Rind remains downy, their Pulp green, their Water bitter, and the Stone Larger than those which have taken more Pulp.

Neither must I forget to say, that as a little after the knitting of the Fruit, generally a considerable part of it drops, so it often happens that at the time the maturity ap∣proaches, a great number of the Fruits fall, and that about a Fortnight, or Three Weeks before that maturity, as if the Tree was sensible of its being over-burthen'd, and would thereby give us notice that the good time is approaching; and indeed it is commonly ob∣serv'd at that time, that a good number of Large Fruits drop, whereby those that re∣main, grow the finer, and the better; and as we have already said, it had been much the better for them, had the Gard'ner taken Care to perform what time has now done.

People are overjoy'd to see those early Peaches ripe at the end of June, and to enjoy them long, which is not difficult, provided we have several Trees of them in different Exposures; they are incomparable, when they are well-Condition'd, both as to size, and maturity; but then we are commonly expos'd to the vexation of tarrying until towards the end of July, for the Peaches that succeed these first, and those we call Troy-Peaches; which Peaches, provided they be throughly ripe, charm every body by the fineness of their Pulp, the perfume of their Water, and the deliciousness of their Tast; their maturity is known as in other Fruits, First by the size, Secondly by a fine red Colour on that side which is expos'd to the Sun, and a light Transparent Yellow in the other parts: Thirdly, by a thin, soft, mellow Rind, somewhat like Satin; any of these marks being wanting, the Fruit cannot be ripe, and therefore should not be gather'd.

Those Troy-Peaches are often abus'd as well as the early Peaches, and all other Peaches at the entrance of their maturity; that is, they are gather'd upon the least Symptoms, without staying until they have attain'd that degree of goodness, they never obtain 'till they are throughly ripe; and this defect proceeds, either from the ignorance, or liquorish∣ness of the Person, who gathers them out of desire to eat, or else out of a silly avidity of gain, which reigns in the Heart, and Eyes of those who are uneasie until they expose them to sale in the Market.

The Month of July affords us many other Fruits besides Troy-Peaches, but the Month of August surpasses it in point of abundance, for it affords us not only an infinity of Plums, but also a vast quantity of Kernel-Fruits; among which, are the Cuisse-Madame, or Lady-Thigh, the Gros-Blanquet, the Sans-Peau, or without Rind, The Espargne, or Sparing, the Orange-Pears, the Summer-Bon-Chreitien, the Cassolets, the Robins, the Russettings, &c. the maturity of which is known, either by their dropping, or not resisting when they are gather'd, or else by a certain yellow colour, which appears in the Rind, especially near the Stalk. Among Plums we reckon the Perdrigons, the Mirabelles, Imperials, St. Ca∣therine, Roche-Courbon, Queen Claude, Apricock-Plums, &c. To those Plums are joyn'd about the middle of August some fine Peaches, Viz. First, the two Magdalens, the white and red, the Mignonne, the Bourdin, the Rossane, &c. all which are large: In the second place, the Alberges, both red, and yellow, the Cherry-Peach, the one with white Pulp, the other with yellow, &c. those Peaches, as well as those that are to succeed them, have no other particular marks to discover their maturity, than those I have already mention'd for early, and Troy-Peaches, which are a reasonable size, a red and yellowish colour without any mixture of Green, and especially their coming off with ease at the least pull or motion of a Skilful hand; all these Fruits are fit to eat as soon as gather'd, and require no Store-House, at least to ripen, Peaches never ripening off the Tree, so that it is in vain to gather them before they are perfectly ripe; but as I have said elsewhere, a day or two's repose in the Store-House, far from injuring of them, affords them a certain coolness which is very proper for them, and which they cannot acquire, while they remain upon the Tree.

The Month of September is famous for a world of the Principal Peaches, the Chevreuse, Hasty Violet, Persique, Admirable, Pourpree, or Purple-Peach, Bellegarde, White d'An∣dilly, besides Brugnons, and white Pavies, &c. There are also some Summer Calville Apples, and some good Pears, which keep these Peaches Company, and may be eaten off the Tree, Viz. The Melting-Pear of Brest, brown Orange-Pears, &c. At least they will not keep long, the Pears grow too mellow, and the Apples grow downy; but yet at this time Kernel-Fruit will begin to require a little rest in the Store-House, or Conservatory, and the best way to judge of their maturity, is to squeeze them gently with the Thumb about the Stalk, to try whether they yield, or no.

The Month of October is likewise to be valued for the last Admirable Peaches it produces in the open Air, or in the West, Viz. The Nivet, and latter Violets, besides the Large Red, as well as Yellow Pavies, without omitting the fine latter yellow Peaches, all growing in good Expositions. The Butter-Pear, Verte Longue, or Long Green,

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Doycnneé, or Deanery, Lansac, Green Sugar-Pear, Burgamot, Vine-Pears, Messire John, &c. begin to Signalize themselves at this time, but then they must be kept some time in the Store-House; we will speak more particularly of this, in the Treatise of Store-Houses; in the mean time, it will not be improper to speak about the means of preserving, and transporting the tender Fruits we have mention'd, sound, and unbruis'd.

CHAP. VII.

Of the Situation that is proper for the Fruits that are gather'd, in order to Preserve them some time.

IN Order to end what I have begun, I am now only to speak of the means of Preser∣ving, as much as can be, good Fruits after their being gather'd, and of the means of transporting them when it is necessary: As to the preservation, I mean such in particular, as are not gather'd until they have attain'd a full maturity, and such as being extream tender and puny, make an end of acquiring it after their being taken out of the Garden, both the one and the other losing their Lustre and Beauty to a high degree, by being ei∣ther bruis'd, rub'd, scratch'd, or spotted with little black Spots; such are your Figs, and Peaches with their fine Colour, and delicate Pulp; such are Plums with the fine flower that covers them, and Butter-Pears that are perfectly ripe; This has no relation to other Fruits that are neither so choice, as Cherries, Morello's, Bigarreaux, &c. Nor so easily spoil'd, as Melons, Pavies, hard Pears, baking Pears, all Apples, &c.

I suppose that every Fig, every Peach, and every Plum has been gather'd with all the Caution I have heretofore explain'd, insomuch, that in the taking them off the Tree, no∣thing was wanting to their perfection; I also suppose, that in the gathering of them, care has been taken to lay them in Sives, with tender soft Leaves, as Vine-Leaves, &c. And to place them all asunder, that they may be no wise squeez'd, nor any laid a top of one ano∣ther, by reason that the weight of the upermost would be capable of brusing the under∣most, and that particularly for Peaches, and Figs, for Plums are not so heavy as to hurt one another.

Now, in order to preserve those kind of Fruits some days, that is, two or three days, especially the Peaches; they must be laid either in Closets, or Store-Houses, which must be very dry, and clean, and full of Shelves, the Windows being always open, unless it be in very Cold weather: Hereafter I will explain the Conditions of a good Store-House, or Conservatory; you must lay a finger thick of Moss upon those Shelves, which may serve, as it were for a kind of Quilt, taking care that the Moss be very dry, and has no ill scent; the Reason of which is, that every Peach so plac'd, sinks of it self into the Moss, and lies softly, without being squeez'd by any of the others. I dare affirm that it is with Peaches, as with Melons, which are better to eat a day after their being gather'd, and left at a distance from the Sun, than Just after their being gather'd, at which time they are lukewarm: Altho' it is not good to touch Fruit much, either upon the Tree, or in the Store-House, yet, provided it be perform'd by a Skilful hand, it will not prejudice it; therefore, while those Peaches lay in the Store-House, they must be carefully visited once a day, to see whether there appears no marks of rottenness, at the same time removing all such that are in the least tainted, otherwise they would spoil others.

It is necessary to place Fruits well in the Store-House, those that have not those regards, lose abundance of them by their own fault: the best situation for Peaches, is, to be plac'd, not only upon Moss, but upon the part which Joyn'd to the Stalk, otherwise they are apt to bruise; Figs must be laid sidewise, by reason that if they were laid upon the Eye, they would lose their best juice; as for Plums, whereas they have no great weight they may be laid any how, as well as Cherries.

The best situation for Pears, their Figure being Pyramidal, is to be plac'd upon the Eye, with the Stalk upwards; it is indifferent whether Apples, the Figure of which forms a perfect Cube, lay upon the Eye, or Stalk, which is always very short, both these Fruits will preserve themselves well enough upon the bare boards, besides, for a while they may lie upon one another, when first brought out of the Gardens, until they approach to ma∣turity; but above all, I would not allow them any Bed or Covering of Straw, or Hay, by reason, that commonly it gives them an ill scent.

The best way for Grapes is to hang them up in the Air fasten'd to a packthread, or a∣bout a Hoop, or six'd to some Beam; besides, they may be laid safe enough upon Straw,

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and when any body desires to preserve them until February, March, or April, they must be gather'd before they are perfectly ripe, otherwise they are apt to rot too soon; besides, Care must be taken once in two or three days to pick all the rotten ones carefully.

All manner of Apples will last until March, and some until May, and June; for in∣stance, the Reynettes, or French Peppins, Apis, Rose-Apples, Francatie, &c. Care being taken that the greatest Mark of their maturity commonly consists in being somewhat wrink∣led, excepting the Apples of Api, and the Rose-Apples, which never wrinkle; they are known to be ripe when all the green which appear'd in the Rind is turn'd yellow.

The destiny of Pears, as to their lasting, is very different, those that last longest, are the Bon-Chrestiens, St. Lezin, Dry-Martins, Martin-Sires, Baking-Pears, Double-Blossoms, and some Franc-reals, &c. I will speak more at large of them in the Treatise of the Store-Houses.

We have set down elsewhere which are commonly the Pears of every Month, and therefore it would be useless to repeat it here: Red Fruits last but little after their being gather'd, Strawberries, and Raspberries are seldom good after a day, Cherries, Morello's, Bigarreaux, and Currans may perhaps last a day longer; good Fruits should be serv'd upon the Table in the same situation they are plac'd in the Store-Houses, in order to make a pretty show, excepting only Pears, which in that Case require some agreeable Cimetry for the Construction of the Pyramids.

With all these Precautions, Fruits may be easily preserv'd as long as they can last, no∣thing can prejudice them, but great Winter Frosts, which are very dangerous, by reason that they may penetrate into the Store-Houses, and so reach the Fruits, and Fruit that has once been Frozen, preserves no manner of goodness, and immediately decays; those that have no Store-Houses made on purpose, with all the necessary regards, I shall explain in the sequel, and who have only a Closet, or some ordinary room, are in danger of losing all their Fruit in bad Weather, unless they take a great deal of care to cover them well with good Blankets, or place them between two Quilts, or else carry them into some Cellar, until the danger be past, at which time those poor Prisoners are taken out of their Dungeons, to be put at Liberty again in their former Places.

CHAP. VIII.

Of the Transportation of Fruits..

THE Difficulty in question has no relation to any Pears, being newly gather'd, nor to any hard Baking Pears, tho' ripe, provided, in case they be Winter Bon-Chretien Pears, every Pear be wrapt up in a piece of Paper; neither has this difficulty any relation to any Apples whatever; those kind of Fruits tho' laid pell mell in Baskets, or Panniers, will indure the being carry'd, either upon a Horse, or in a Cart; but we cannot do so with tender mellow Pears when they are ripe; in that case they are like the Figs, and Peaches, &c. their delicacy and tenderness requires a gentle usage, like Beautiful young La∣dies, otherwise the agitation of the Carriage would bruise and blacken them, and consequently would deprive them of their greatest Ornaments, and even of their chief goodness.

This Prelude conducts us insensibly to establish, that Peaches, Figs, Strawberries, Mo∣rello's, &c. in order to their being transported from one place to another, require Water-Carriage, or the Back or Arms of a Porter without any jogging, and above all, if they be Peaches, they must be laid upon that part which is fix'd to the Stalk, without touching one another, and be laid first upon a Bed of Moss, or tender Leaves laid pretty thick; and in the second place, wrapt up in Vine-Leaves, and so well order'd, that they may not move out of their places; and finally, in case several Beds be laid over one another, a good separation must be made between them of Moss, or of a reasonable quantity of Leaves, the last Couch must likewise be pretty well cover'd with Leaves, and the whole wrapt up with a Cloth, well fasten'd, in order to keep all that is contain'd in the Basket close, and in good order: The safest way would be to do with Peaches, what I am going to prescribe for Figs, but then the inconvenience is, that it would be impossible to carry any considerable quantity at a time. For Figs you must have Sives not above two inches deep, and lay a bed of Vine-Leaves at the bottom of them, and place the Figs sidewise, wraping them up first, asunder, each in one of the said Leaves, taking care to order them so well, and so

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neatly close to one another, that the motion of the transportation may not be able to re∣move them, and never lay two a top of one another: This first and only Bed being made, it must be cover'd with Leaves, and next with a Sheet of Paper, neatly fix'd round about the Sive, and moreover stay'd with some small Packthread, in order to keep the Fruit close into the said Sive.

Good Plums being laid up, without any Ceremony, in any Basket, or Sive, with a good Bed of Leaves or Nettles at the bottom of it; the top must also be cover'd with Net∣tles, after having first taken off the thickest down, which being done, the whole must be Cover'd with a Linen Cloth, or some Sheets of Paper, fasten'd with some Pack-thread:

Common Plums may be transported in great Baskets, barely putting small Leaves under, and over them.

Apricock-Plums are sent from Tours to Paris upon Messengers Horses, with a great deal more precaution apart, for they are put in Boxes stuff'd with Houads, every one of them be∣ing moreover separately wrapt up in Houads; but that Expedient is Chargeable, besides it is impossible to carry many at a time.

Strawberries being likewise order'd in double ridges, in Baskets made on purpose, stuff'd with leaves at the bottom, and round about; it will suffice to cover them with a fine Wet Piece of Linnen, abundance of them are carryd thus, according to the bigness of those Baskets.

Grapes, either Muscat or Chasselas, are partly carry'd in the same manner I have noted for Peaches; nay with less Ceremony, since it is not very material to separate every Bed with Leaves.

Muscat Grapes, are sometimes sent into distant Countrys, and they are put in Cases fill'd with Bran, and carry'd upon Horses or Mules, care being taken that the Bunches may not touch one another; But that is an Expence only proper for Kings, or very great Lords.

For the Transportation of our Principal Fruits, when they are only to be sent a Days Journey at most, I commonly use certain square Baskets, divided in the Inside in∣to several Stories, which are at a convenient distance from one another, to place our Sives full of Fruit; those are either made of very Close Ozier, and then they need no other covering to secure them from Dust, or else of loose Ozier, and then they must be cover'd with Sere-Cloath; moreover, those Baskets open sidewise like a kind of Press, or else at the top, and then the lowest Story must be fill'd first, and a little covering laid over it which serves to close this first, and to bear the Second, and thus to the uppermost; a small Pad-lock may be fixed to it, at pleasure, to which two Keys may be made, the one for those to whom the Fruit is sent, and the other remaining with the Person who sends it, by which means the Fruit is convey'd safely.

CHAP. IX.

Of Store-Houses, or Conservatories for Fruits.

IF in that very season, when Kitchen-Gardens Charm most by their Greenness, and neatness, Fruits are notwithstanding their chief Ornament, what advantages, or rather what Consolations are not those Fruits capable of affording us, when in the middle of a dismal, Melancholy Winter, we are provided with a Considerable store of them, and even some of them Infinitely better than any the Summer had supplied us with. There is no denying that we are all naturally inclined to have a Violent Passion for Fruits, and by that very reason, as they are delicious to the Palate, we easily perswade our selves that they are of use for our Health; Physitians who are to give no Rules against Infirmities, are so far from opposing this Opinion, that they Establish it as Infallible, and often prescribe the use of Fruits as Soveraign Remedies; for which reason most People are at present Curious of Fruits, and many Gentlemen are proud of expressing their Earnestness in Rearing them: Nature seems to delight in favouring that Curiosity, it yearly produces abundance of Fruits; the Summer produces but too many, and Autumn yields a sufficient quantity; but the diffi∣culty is to have some in the Winter, which is a Dead, Infertile Season; therefore we should make it our study to preserve such, as are only good a considerable while after their being gather'd; they are Expos'd to a long Journey, in which they are to run many hazards: It does not only require a careful man, but also a Place that may be altogether proper to preserve

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them; we must on one side Combat Cold which destroys all those it reaches, on the other hand we must prevent all ill scents, which would spoil what the Weather had spar'd: This Place is commonly call'd a Store-House or Conservatory, which without doubt must have its Rules, and particular properties, since it is so useful, and is to produce such good Effects. It is to be suppos'd that I must needs be skill'd in that Point, considering the Great and Ancient use I have made of it in Gardens; and Consequently I should certainly be blam'd, unless I declar'd what my Experience has taught me in relation to Store-Houses, ei∣ther to avoid the defects that are to be fear'd in it, or to attain the success that is to be hop'd for.

Let other Curioso's, which are in so great a Number, cry up their Closets as much as they please, let them Invite every body to come and see them, let them be careful in making rich Descriptions of them, I am so far from finding fault at it, that I am one of the first to Commend them, I Visit them with a singular satisfaction, and take great delight in looking upon such things as are most Extraordinary, not only for the matter, but likewise for the Workmanship; I say, let People cry up those Collections of Miracles of Art, but at least let them allow those that are Curious in Gard'ning, the liberty of boasting of their Store-Houses of Fruits, which are their Closets; not that they contain any Originals, or Anti∣quities, far from it, their greatest Value consists altogether in Novelty, but then they are excellent Novelties; that is, they are productions of Nature, which renew, and take new Vigour Yearly: Productions which indeed are only, if I may use the Expression, so many Copies of its first Productions at the Birth of Time, which at the same time surpasses the Merit of those Originals: By reason that this Nature having been Charm'd at first, with the Beauty of its first Essays, has taken delight in repeating them as often as it could, as if it really Study'd more and more to improve, even to that degree, that it suffers it self to be Conduct∣ed a little by Culture, seeing that Culture really contributes to the Perfectioning of its new Productions.

This being granted, I am of Opinion, that no Body will deny that this Closet deserves to be seen, and in truth nothing can be more agreeable to sight than this Store-House, where at the first Entrance you discover a kind of well contriv'd Room, of which the size is proportion'd to the Occasion for which it was Built, where you discover in the next Place, a fine Edg d-Table, which takes up the middle of the Place, and is convenient and necessary to order the Baskets, or China-Basons that are to be serv'd, where finally you discover the four Walls Garnish'd, and see all the Shelves well Order'd, and fill'd both in Autumn and Winter with fine Fruits; those Fruits differently plac'd with flying Labels, to express their kinds, and Maturity in relation to the Sequel of Months; thus Burgamots are order'd in one Place, Virgoules in another, Ambrets here, Thorn-Pears there, Leschasserirs here, the St. Germans there, Bonchretien here, Bugy there, Baking Pears here, there the Apples, with the same Distinctions observ'd for the Pears; here Fruits that drop of themselves, there such as have been gather'd in Season, here those of the North, there those of good Espalies; here those of High-Standards, there those of Dwarfs, there the Fruits that are Ripe in such a Month, there those that do not Ripen so soon, &c. with this Constant order, that those that are Ripe are always most within reach, both for the Hand and Eye, and those that are not Ripe yet, according to their Degree, plac'd upon higher Shelves, where they expect the Season that is to ripen them, and Consequently to be remov'd in the Room of those that are Pass'd; those first Disappear after having perform'd their Part, and finish'd their Career; and others are ready to Succeed them, and as it were, to come each to their turn to serve the quarter which is dessign'd for them.

Finally, do's not the Liberality of our Curioso towards his Friends (for he loves to Im∣part what he has) deserve some privilegde to raise the Merit of his Closet above others, out of which we only bring bare Ideas, and were far from receiving any Liberaliteis, on the contrary the Curioso makes profession of being close Fisted; he never makes a show of his Treasure unless it be against his Will; there constantly appears a great deal of disgust in him, which sometimes proceeds from the fear of being Robb'd, but more commonly out of fear of not being thought as Rich, as he pretends to be.

Let us now Proceed to Establish the principal Conditions of a good Store-House; In my Opinion the First consists in its being inpenetrable to Frosts; great Cold as we have already often declar'd being a mortal Enemy to Fruits, those that are once Frozen, are ne∣ver after good for any thing.

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It follows from thence, for the Second Condition, that this Store-House must he expos'd to the South or East, or at least to the West; the Northern Exposition would be very perni∣nicious to it.

It also follows for the Third Condition, that the Wall of the said Store-House must be at least Twenty Four Inches thick, or else the Frost could not be kept out.

It likewise follows for the Fourth Condition, that the Windows besides the Common Quarrels, should have good double Paper Saches, Very close, and very well stopt, together with a Double Door, insomuch that the Cold Air from abroad, may not be able to enter in, for it would certainly destroy the Temperate Air which has been preserv'd of Old in the Inside, it is impossible to be too exact in this care, since the least or any, might occasion a great deal of disorder in one Frosty Night; I do not in the least approve the making of Fire in the Store-House, for the same reason, I have sufficiently Establish'd in the Treatise of Orange-Trees.

Notwithstanding all these Conditions, which perhaps have not been exactly Observ'd the thing being pritty difficult, it is absolutely necessary to have some small Vessel full of Water in the Store-House, to be certain, It is a faithful Incorruptible Centry, which is to give us notice of all that may Prejudice us; when that Water does not Freeze there is nothing to be done; but when it Freezes in the least, a remedy must Immeadiately be ap∣ply'd: The Colds of the Month of December 1670, 1675, 1676, 1678, that of January, and February, 1679. and especially that of December 1683, and of January 1684, which lasted a whole Month, without discontinuation the last time, must needs serve for a great Instruction in this Matter; it required a great deal of Care, and forecast, not to be caught by it. A good Weather-Glass plac'd on the out-side at the Northern-Exposure is of great use; we have reason to Judge the Peril great, when this Weather-Glass continues for two Nights together to be, at the fifth and sixth Degrees, and even the seventh and eighth; the first Night may have done no harm, the second is much to be fear'd, and therefore it is very necessary the very next Day after such a Night to use good Quilts, or good Blankets, or else a great deal of dry Moss to secure our Fruits from Frost; nay more, having a good Cellar, it will be very proper to remove our Fruits into it, and leave them there until the great Cold be pass'd, and in all these Cases care must be taken to replace all those Fruits as they were before in the Store-House; as soon as the Weather grows better, and to remove such as are Ripe, and such as are tainted, Rotenness is one of the worst accidents to be fear'd, while Fruits are not in a Condition to be Visited often one after ano∣ther.

After having made Provision against Cold, we must Study to preserve our Fruits from ill Taste; the Neighbourhood of Hay, Straw, Dung, Cheese, a great deal of Foul Linnen, especially such as has been imploy'd in the Kitchen, &c. are all very dangerous, and must not in the least be suffer'd near our Store-House or Conservatory; a certain Musty Taste, together with the smell of many Fruits laid up together is likewise very disagreeable, and therefore the Store-House must not only have good Overtures, and a high Ceiling, the just measure of which, is to be from Ten to Twelve Foot high, but the Windows must often be kept open, that is, as often as there is no fear of great Cold either in the Night, or in the Day, fresh Air from without, when it is Temperate, is Incomparable to purify, and reestablish, that which has been long inclos'd.

For the Sixth Condition, I think I may say, that neither a Cellar nor a Garret are sit to make this Conservatory, the Cellar by reason of a mustiness, and moist heat that are insepa∣rable from it, which inclines the Fruit to Rottenness; the Garret because of the Cold, which easily Penetrates the Roof; and therefore a ground Room is the best for our Use, or at least a first Story, accompany'd with other Lodging-Rooms Inhabited over and under it, as well as on the sides.

I add to this Sixth Condition, that the Store-House must be often visited by him that has it in Charge, which is neglected when he is not at Hand, that is, conveniently plac'd, by reason of the trouble of going too much up, or down.

The seventh Condition requires, many shelves fram'd together in order to Lodge the Fruits separately the one from the other, the finest on the best side, and Baking-Pears on the worst; Apples must lye by themselves. The reasonable distance of these Shelves is to be about Nine or Ten Inches; and I would have them about Seventeen or Eighteen Inches broad, that they may hold the more, and please the sight the better.

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For the Eighth Condition, I would have those shelves a little sloaping outwardly, that is, about an Inch in the Breadth, with an Edge about Two Fingers high, to hinder the Fruit from Falling: The Fruits are not so much in sight when the Shelves are level, as when they are as I desire them, and thus when any of them are Rotten it is not so easily perceived, and that Rottenness Communicates it self to those that are about it, unless remedy'd at first.

The fear of that Rottenness requires for a Ninth Condition, that every Shelf should be visited at least every other day, without fail, to remove what ever may be tainted.

And for the Tenth Condition, it requires that the Shelves should be cover'd with some∣thing, for Instance dry Moss, or about an Inch thick of fine Sand, in order to keep every Fruit steady, after its being plac'd upon its Basis, as it should be, and to keep it asunder, for the Fruits must no wise be allow'd to touch each other: It is much pleasanter to see them all in a row upon their Basis, that is, upon the Eye which is opposite to the Stalk, than to see them Lye pell mell any how.

I require for the Last Condition, that Care be taken to Sweep our Conservatory, or Store-House often, to suffer no Cobwebs in it, and to keep Traps for Rats and Mice, and moreover it will not be amiss to allow it some secret Entrance for Cats, other∣wise the Fruit will be in danger of being gnaw'd by those Curs'd little Domestick Animals.

The Conservatory, which is particularly design'd for Winter-Fruits, is likewise very useful for those of Autumn, either Pears or Grapes, and for Summer Fruits, either Peaches, Pavies, Plums, &c. These being in my opinion, as I have already said, much better a day after their being gather'd, than the very day; they acquire a certain coolness in the Store-House, which is a great Improvement which they can never have, while they are upon the Tree.

Now whereas generally speaking, the Fruits that are most Considerable, are only brought into the Store-House, after their having acquir'd one of the two Maturities, which is proper for them, viz. for the Summer Fruits an approaching Maturity, which Expediates them in few days, and for Autumn, and Winter-Fruits, a distant Maturity, which makes them keep long, some less, some more; and besides, whereas it is the approach∣ing Maturity, which is of most Consequence, as well for those good Fruits, which would perish miserably, unless taken in the nick, as for the Master whose pains, cares, and hopes would be lost, unless he were capable, as the saying is, to nick the Critical Minute; it follows from thence, that it is necessary to make an end of giving, in this place, the In∣fallible marks by which this Maturity is to be known: I have already explain'd those: marks for most Fruits which do not exceed September and October, viz. for the remainder of Summer Pears, the remainder of Plums, the best latter Peaches and Pavies, &c. There now remains to speak of October Pears, and others, which keep from All-Saints, till Easter, and longer.

The Vertelongue or Long-Green, Butter-Pears, Vine-Pears, Messire-John, Green-Sugar-Pears, &c. after these, the Petit-oins, Lansaes, Marchionesses, Burgamots, Amadottes, and even the Besideri, and Thick-Stalks, &c. are the first, that are to pass during the Month of November; the Thumb (as we have observ'd already, for the Butter-Pears, Long-Greens, Green-Sugar-Peart, and others, which have began to ripen in October) daly turns what∣ever ripens out of the Store-House, viz. Petit-oins, Marchionesses, Russettines, Lansaes &c. by reason that these are still tender Pears; a Whitish Colour which forms it self in the Rind of the Messire-John, a Yellow cast in the Amadottes, Thick-Stalks, Besideri, &c. and a moisture upon the Rind of the Burgamots, together with a little Yellowness which discovers it self upon them, all those are certain signs which inform us without the help of the Thumb, of what we have a mind to know of those lost kinds of Fruits, 'tis but exa∣mining of them Constantly, or at least every other day, and that Rule of review for the Maturity is to be continu'd the following Months for all other Fruits, that re∣main, in order not to lose the least sign which discovers their approaching Maturity; moreover this review is necessary, to remove such as begin to Rot.

The Louise-bonne, Winter-Thornes, Ambrets, Leschaseries, St. Germains, Vergoules, even the Dry-Martins, Spanish Bon-Chretiens, with the Apples of all kinds, of Capendu, either Grey, or Red, or White, the Apples of Fenouillet, Autumn Calvils, some Apis, and some Reynettes, &c. all these Fruits begin to ripen at the beginning of December, and a little Yellowness, together with some Wrinkles discovers it self upon the Six first, by which

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we may judge, in case that they do not resist the Thumb, that they are fit to Eat, but until then, we must not venture to meddle with them; in cutting of them, the Knife would soon discover their want of Ripeness; those kind of Pears are very Subject to soften, and thereby are certainly apt to deceive those who do not strictly Examine them every day.

As to the Dry-Martins, and Spanish Bon-Chretiens, it is with them in the Month of December, just as what I am going to say in January for the Portail-Pears, as soon as ever there appears the least Spot of Rotteness upon any of them, you may boldly attack them all, their time is come, and they are soon threaten'd with Rottenness; but yet with this advantage, that they remain a pretty while in the State of perfect Ma∣turity.

The Capendu, Fenouillet, and Reinettes, declare their Maturity as soon as they become extreamly wrinkled, the Apis declare theirs when their Green Colour turns to Yellow.

The Calvils seem to become lighter, and their kernel loossens, and rattles in shaking, when they ripen, they remain good a long while, as well as the Reinettes, which are be∣come Yellow, without wrinkling, and, those are admirable qualifications in those kind of Fruits.

People must not grow weary of often feeling the tender melting Pears of that Season, the lazy and negligent thereby fall into great Inconveniences.

Such Fruits as have resisted the Thumb in the Month of December, will final∣ly yield to it in their turns in the Months of January and February, but when the Winter-Thorns, are not able to change their Colour a little in these Months, they become Mealy and Insipid, and in a Word, perish without attaining a perfect Maturity, which is a cruel loss to the Curious, since it is really one of our best Pears.

I have made very considerable Observations in relation to it, and of some others, in the Treatise of the Choice and Proportion, &c.

The Louise-bonnes, and the Long-Greens, of September and October, seldom grow Yel∣low, but they wrinkle, and become soft, mellow, and agreeable to feel.

Many Ambrets soften, before they grow Yellow, particularly such as grow North-ward, or upon Dwarf-standards, and especially upon Trees Graffed upon free Stocks, that are too full, therefore these, as well as all other Pears which grow upon Northern Espaliers, require Sugar above all others, to correct their Taste, which is not so good as it should be, tho they are so very full of Water.

The large Winter-Musky, and the Portail-Pears have some Friends, neither of them Value the skill of the Thumb, but the Yellowness of the first, and a few wrinkles, or some Rotteness in the second, to Invite their Votaries do make use of their merit, what ever it be.

One of the chief things I mind in ordering my Fruits in the Store-House or Con∣servatory, is not only to place every kind upon different Shelves, or when I do put several upon one, they are distinguish'd by divisions of Edges, but I likewise make the same distinction among Fruits of the same kind; first I place those that are fallen before their time (for I do not fling them away) by themselves, out of sight, they seldom look well, by reason of their growing very much wrinkled, indeed some more, and others less, and that according to their dropping, sooner, or later; but yet they ripen at last, tho pretty long after the others of their kind; and I cannot forbear doing of them the Justice to say, that they are pretty often incomparably good under a wither'd, ugly, wrinkled Rind, especially when their fall does not exceed a Month before the time of the common gathering.

Secondly, Pears growing upon Dwarf-Standards are apart, as well as those of good Espaliers or Wall-Trees.

I follow the same Method for the Fruits of High-Standards, and the same for the Fruits of Northern Espaliers, by reason that regularly the Fruits of good Espaliers ripen first; those of Vigorous Dwarfs follow them in this order, those of Dwarfs Graffed upon Quince-Stocks preceed those that are Graffed upon Free-Stocks, and those of Infirm Trees preceed both the one and the other.

In ine, the Fruits of High-Standards succeed, and often mix with these, and are the best of all, which Maxim is Universally true, Excepting only Plums, and Figs, as I have said elswhere; the Fruits of the Northern Exposure, ripen last of all.

Winter Bon Chretiens, with their Brittle Pulp, and the Colmars with their tender Pulp, let all other Mellow Pears pass before them, and in the mean time the others begin to

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turn yellow, and in turning yellow, to Ripen, and to wrinkle a little towards the Stalk: When Bon-Chretien is perfectly ripe, the Pulp is almost melting, and when it is not, it remains very stony; some of them will keep till March, and April; the Bugy's, St. Lezins, and Martin-Sires joyn with those, to close up the Theatre of the Maturity of Pears; the Bugys in March and April are very delicious, with their tender watery Pulp, tho' a little Sowrish: The St. Lezins with their firm Pulp, accompany'd with a little Perfume, also make some Figure, but it is very difficult to preserve them 'till then, the least touch of Cold blackens them intirely, and renders them hideous to sight, as well as disagreeable to the Palate.

As for the Baking-Pears, they are good at all times, for the end they are design'd for, particularly when they begin to grow yellow; with this Proviso, that all such as are tainted with Rottenness, must be laid aside, lest they should infect those that are sound; and thus the Franc-Reals, Little Certeau, the Carmelites, or Mazuer, and especially the Double-Blossoms, which must be consider'd as the best of those that are only fit to bake, are almost ready at all times to perform their part: The Pears of Book and Love, the Angobers, Catillac, Fontarabie, &c. may chance to acquire some goodness, being season'd with Sugar, and the heat of the Fire, but they still retain a touch of Tartness, which can never agree with nice Pallats.

Autumn Calvils, and Reinets, are admirable for Preserving, the Capendus and Fenou∣illets are not so good, by reason of their sweetness, but the first have a kind of briskness, which gives them an incomparable rast.

CHAP. X.

Of the Diseases of Fruit-Trees.

IT is apparent, that by a Law Universally Establish'd, all Living Animated Beings are subject to some Accidents, which hinder them from enjoying a perpetual, and al∣ways equally Vigorous health; this is the reason that it is not only among Men, and other Animals, we find different Distempers: Vegetables, and more particularly Fruit-Trees, are likewise subject to certain Infirmities that destroy them, which we may very well term Distempers; yellow Leaves out of Season, new Shoots growing black, and dying on their Extremities in the Months of August, and September, Fruits remaining small, or dropping of themselves, &c. are, as the Physicians term it, so many speaking Symptoms, informing us of the indisposition of the Foot. Among those Infirmities, there are some that may be Cur'd with the assistance of some Remedies, and others which hitherto appear Incurable; since whatever can be done to them, has still prov'd Ineffectual, perhaps time may produce some Skilful Person, whose Knowledge and Experience may give us some light, in a Case which exposes us to scorn, or at least to pity. In the mean time, since it is but too true that our Trees are liable to different Distempers, Gard∣ners would certainly be blame-worthy, if they did not make it their Study to find out effectual Remedies for some, and to satisfie themselves as to the others; and if knowing those Remedies, they were not careful to apply them upon occasion: For it were vain for them to breed Trees in their Gardens, to be liable to see them perish in their prime, for want of knowing how to Cure them, and restore them to their pristine Vigour.

In Order not to omit any thing relating to those Accidents which our Trees are liable to, without including such as proceed from too long wounds, of great Heat, of great Cold, of Storms, of Whirlwinds, Hails, &c.

I think my self oblig'd to say, in the first place, that there are Distempers common to all Trees in general; Secondly, that there are some that are peculiar to every particular kind: The common Distempers consist either in a defect of Vigour, which makes the Trees appear in a languishing Condition, or else in a storm of large white Worms, which are sometimes form'd in the Earth, and there gnaw the Roots, or the Bark of the Neighbouring Stem; those mischievous little Insects which we call Tons, by degrees cause so great a disorder, that the Tree which is attack'd by them, and had always appear'd Vigorous before, all on a suddain dies without any Remedy.

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The Peculiar Distempers are, for Example, in Pear-Treees against a Wall, when their Leaves are attack'd with what we call Tigers: Cankers, and Scabs in other Pear-Trees, Viz. Robins, small Muscadins, &c. Gum on Stone-Fruit-Trees, especially Peach-Trees, which commonly destroys that part on which it fixes, either Branch, or Stem; and when, unfortunately it attacks the part where the Tree is graffed, which is often hid under ground, it insensibly spreads round about that Graff, without any bodies observing of it, for the Tree still continues in a good Condition, while there remains any passage for the Sap; but, finally, this Gum hindering this Sap from rising to the upper parts of the Tree, makes that Tree die suddenly, as if it had been suffocated by a kind of Apoplectick Fit.

Moreover, some Peach-Trees are also attack'd with Aemets, and a small kind of green Fleas, which sometimes fasten on the young Shoots, and hinder them from thri∣ving; sometimes on the new Leaves, and cause them first to shrink, next to dry, and fall: We have likewise North-East Winds which blast, in some Springs wither, and as it were burn all the new Shoots; insomuch, that the Trees on which this unlucky In∣fluence lights, appears dead, while others about them are green, full of fine Leaves, and continue to produce fine Shoots: Besides this, are not the most Vigorous Trees subject to have the end of their new Shoots intirely cut off by a little black round Insect, call'd Bud-Cutter.

Fig-Trees dread the great Colds of the Winter, which are capable of Freezing their whole head, unless they be extreamly well Cover'd, but it is not sufficient to have se∣cur'd them against Frost.

They are likewise subject in that Winter Season, to have the lower part of their Stems gnaw'd by Rats, and * 1.1 Mulots which makes them pine, and die.

Those very Animals, together with * 1.2 Laires, Ear-wigs, and Snails, likewise spoil the very Fruit on the Trees when they approach to maturity, especially Peaches, and Plums; have not Goosberry-shrubs their peculiar Enemies also, which are a kind of small green Caterpillars, which form themselves towards the Months of May, and June, on the back part of their Leaves, and eat them to that degree, that those little Shrubs remain altoge∣ther bare; and their Fruit no longer having any thing to cover and defend them from the great heats of the Sun, is destroy'd, without being able to Ripen.

I might run over all the Accidents which all the rest of Gard'ning is liable to, and cause abundance of Disorders in it: For Example, Strawberry-Plants in the prime of their Youth and Vigour, are as it were treacherously attack'd in their very Roots by those wicked * 1.3 Tons which destroy them.

Kitchen-Plants, especially Lettuce, and Succory, &c. constantly have some of those * 1.4 Tons, or other little reddish Worms which gnaw them about the neck, and kill them just as they come to perfection.

How much do Artichokes suffer by little black Flies which infest them towards the end of Summer, and Mulots, or Garden-Mice, which gnaw their Roots in the Winter.

Lettuce, and Succory are absolutely devour'd by Snails, some of which are long, and yellow, some blackish, and gray, and others little and white, especially in Rainy Weather.

Sorell is tormented in very hot weather with little Black Fleas, which gnaw all the Leaves, insomuch that it becomes of no use.

Even Cabbages are spoil'd by green Snails, which gnaw and spoil all their Leaves; but I am only to speak in this place, of those Distempers that may be Cur'd in Fruit-Trees, and not of such as are Incurable, nor of those that are incident to Kitchen-Plants; those commonly proceed, either from the defect of the Ground, which does not furnish nourishment enough, or from an ill Culture, or a defect in Pruning, or finally, from a defect in the Tree, which was not well-condition'd, either before it was Planted, or in Planting of it.

It therefore follows, in the first place, that the Soil may contribute to Distemper our Trees, which commonly happens when the Earth is not Fruitful in it self, or is perhaps become so by being exhausted, or when it is too dry, or too moist; or else when, tho' never so good, there is not a sufficient quantity of it.

In order to remedy all those kind of Inconvenients, I say, that when the Soil is in∣fertile, as it happens in many places, where there is nothing but clear Sand, the Master is to blame to have Planted any thing in it, the defect of it can never be Corrected, whatever quantity of Dung he puts into it; the only Expedient is to remove that Earth, and put better Mould in the room of it: Happy are those who can meet with it in their Neighbourhood, and thereby avoid the Trouble and Charge of fetching it at a distance. As to that which is worn out, it is likely that there may be some better a∣bout

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it which may be us'd, unless People would allow it two or three years time to lie Fallow, in order to amend it by rest, but there is no pleasure in losing so much time: When we resolve to make this Exchange of Mould, and yet are unwilling to remove the Tree which is not Old, one half of the Roots must be Prun'd short again, which will suffice for the first Year, doing the same again at the end of two years, to the other half of the Tree: Nothing Exhausts the Ground more than the Roots of Trees lying long in the same place, especially the Roots of Neighbouring Trees, particularly Palli∣sado's of Elms; Fruit-Trees must of necessity Pine, or Perish, if that Neighbourhood subsists.

When the Ground is too dry, and light, the best Remedy is to soak it often with frequent Waterings, or by Artificial falls of Water, or else by ordering Spouts, or, Dreins in such a manner, that they may Conduct the Water of Rains into the Squares and Bordures, as I have explain'd it in the Treatise about Soils.

When the Ground is too moist, that part must be rais'd where the Trees stand, making lower Ridges to receive the Waters, and Conduct them out of the Gardens by Gutters, or Aqueducts, as I have done in the Kitchen-Garden of Versailles.

When there is not Mold enough, it must be augmented, either about the Roots, re∣moving all the ill Mould, to put better in the room of it; or else laying new Mould over the Surface of it; the Mould being thus amended, without doubt the Trees will thrive better in it, and grow more Vigorous.

When the distemper is only visible by a certain yellowness, as for Example; Pear-Trees Graffed upon Quince-Stocks, in certain Grounds, always grow yellow, tho' the Ground seems to be pretty good; it is a good and certain Advertisement to remove them, and to place others in their room upon Free-Stocks, which are much more Vigorous, and agree better in an indifferent Soil, than others.

When Peaches Graffed upon Almond-Stocks, cast too much Gum in moist Grounds, others must be Planted upon Plum-Stocks, and when they do not thrive upon Plum-Stocks in Sandy Grounds, only such must be Planted there, as are Graffed upon Al∣monds.

If, on the other hand, the Tree appears over-burthen'd with Branches, so as only to shoot very small ones, it must be eas'd, until it begins again to produce fine Shoots, always performing that Pruning, by lowering the uppermost Branches, or by removing part of those that cause a Confusion in the middle, observing the Maxims I have establish'd for good Pruning.

When the Distemper proceeds from the Trees being ill-Condition'd before its being Planted; as for instance, from its having a Scabby poor Foot, half dead for want, or from its being too weak, the best way is to pull it out, and place a better in the room of it.

If the Tree, being good in it self, has been Planted too deep, or too shallow, or with too many Roots, the best expedient is to take it up again, Prune the Roots a-new, and Re-plant it according to the Rules of Art.

And to all these Ends, it is very necessary to keep always some Dozens of good Trees in Baskets, to place new ones ready grown in the room of such as must be remov'd.

When the Trees are attack'd with some Cankers, you must with the point of a Knife remove the part so tainted to the quick, and then apply a little Cow-Dung to it, covering it with a piece of Linen, a kind of Rind will grow over it, which will cover the Wound, and so that Accident will be Cur'd.

When Catterpillars annoy a Tree, Care must be taken to remove them.

When Rats gnaw the Barks, Snares and Traps must be laid for them.

When the Distemper is suppos'd to proceed from Tons, the Foot of the Tree must be un∣cover'd to Extirpate them absolutely, putting new Mould in the room of the old, after ha∣ving shortned the Roots that are gnaw'd.

Among the Incurable Distempers of our Trees, I reckon first Old Age; when for In∣stance, a Pear-Tree, or Plum-Tree has serv'd for Thirty, Forty, or Fifty years, we may conclude that it has attain'd a decrepit Age, and consequently, that it has perform'd its part, and is out of date, there is no hopes of a return, it must be taken out, not leaving any of its Roots into the Ground, putting new Mould into the room of it, in order to Plant new Trees there, when People are desirous of seeing Trees in the same Place.

In the second place, I reckon the Tigers which stick to the back of the Leaves of Wall-Pear-Trees, and dry them up by sucking all the green Matter that was in them, among the Incurable Distempers; I have imploy'd all manner of strong, sower, corrosive, stink∣ing Lees, Viz. of Rue, Tabacco, Salt, Vinegar, &c. to wash the Leaves, and Branches: I have, by the Advice of some of the Curious, imploy'd Oyl; I have smoak'd them with

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Brimstone by the Advice of others; I have burnt the Old Leaves, I have scrap'd the back of the Branches, and Stem, to which the Seed sticks: I daily endeavour to find out some new Expedient; and after all, I confess freely, and to my shame, that I have never suc∣ceeded in any of them; there still remains some of the Seed of that Cursed Insect, in some part or other: And in the Months of May, and June, this Seed is hatch'd by the heat of the Sun, and then multiplies ad Infinitum, and therefore one of these two things must be done; either no Pear-Trees must be suffer'd against a Wall, or in Espalier, which is a violent Remedy, especially for small Muscat-Pears, Burgamots, and Winter Bon-Chretiens, which seldom thrive from a Wall; or else we must resolve to see those Tigers upon them, contenting our selves with burning all the Leaves yearly, and with cleansing the Trees as much as is possible.

Thirdly, I reckon among the Incurable Distempers the Gum, which fastens to Peach-Trees, and other Stone-Fruits; when it only appears on one Branch, it is no great matter, 'tis but cutting the said Branch two or three inches below the part so Distemper'd; whereby this kind of Gangreen is hinder'd from extending farther, as it would Infallibly do, if it stuck about the Graff, or all over the Stem, or on most of the Roots, and then the sole Expedient is to lose no more time about it, and consequently to remove such a Tree out of the Ground, in the manner aforesaid:

The Gum sometimes proceeds from an external Accident, for instance, from a Wound which has been made by way of Incision, by a Scratch, and sometimes from an Evil inward disposition: In the first Case, that Gum is nothing but a spurted Sap, which is subject to Corruption, and Rottenness, from the time it ceases to be inclos'd in its Or∣dinary Channels, which lye between the Wood, and the Bark; in that Case the Remedy is easie, especially when it happens only on a Branch, as I have declar'd in the pre∣ceeding Article, when the Distemper affects the Stem, it often Cures it self by a knob, or a Continuation of new Bark, which extends over the part so Wounded; sometimes it is necessary to apply a Plaister of Cow-dung over it, cover'd with a piece of Linen, until the Wound be clos'd: When the Gum proceeds from the inside, I judge it Incurable on the Stem, or Roots.

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A TREATISE OF THE Graffs of Trees, AND OF NURSERIES.
CHAP. XI.

Of Graffs.

I Never Reflect on what we call Graffing of Trees, and the Advantage which accrues from thence, for the Imbellishment of our Gardens; but at the same time, in my * 1.5 mind, I compare all young Persons before their being Educated, to so many Wild∣lings, to be Graffed. It really seems to me, that as most Trees before their being Graffed, naturally produce none but ill Fruits, so most young People before their being Instructed, naturally incline to Evil; but Education intervening like, a kind of good Graff, to inspire them with Sentiments conformable to Reason, disposes and inclines them insen∣sibly to Vertue, purging and divesting them at the same time of their Evil Inclinations; insomuch, that being afterwards Influenc'd by good Maxims, they no longer swerve from what is just and reasonable, and ever receive the approbation of the Wise: And as Edu∣cation is the Master-piece of Morality, so likewise it cannot be deny'd, but the Art of Graffing is what is most considerable in Gard'ning.

The Roman Oratour, conformably to many others among the Learned, who had explain'd themselves upon that subject before him, has taken delight inspeaking of that Invention, in terms so Noble, and so Elegant, that Posterity has been Charm'd with it: In effect, he expres∣ses the singular esteem he had for it, very agreeably, and yet without seeming to insist upon the praise of its Ancientness, being willing as it were by his silence to incline us to believe that the Original of it is hardly known, and that without doubt we are only in∣debted to Chance for it; and indeed our Books of Husbandry, hardly mention any thing capable of giving us any agreeable useful insight into it; for, as for instance, what signi∣fies it to believe, with Theophrastus, that we have receiv'd the first Idea of Graffing from the inside of the Trunk of a Tree's having produc'd another Tree of a different kind? That Author, who, to maintain his Opinion, lays a great stress upon that Adventure, delights in reciting the whole Story at length; for which Reason, he adds, that a Bird having swal∣low'd a whole Fruit, had afterwards voided it again accidentally in the hollow of that Old Tree, and that the Rains mixing with some rotten part of that hollow had made it sprout and grow, insomuch that it was become a new Tree of the same kind of that whence this Fruits was Originally grown, which consequently was absolutely different from that hol∣low

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Tree which had given Birth and Nourishment to that new Tree, as if it had sprouted in the open Ground.

What signifies it likewise for me to believe, with Pliny, that this Invention of Graffing proceeds rather from that a Plough-Man, who was a good Husband, being desirous to se∣cure a piece of Land against the Spoils, he dreaded from without, unless his Field was well inclos'd, had fenc'd it round about with a Pallisade of green Poles, and that in order to secure those Poles from rottenness, thereby to make them last the longer, he had be∣thought himself of laying into the ground round about that Field Trunks of Ivy, with a design to intermix, as he did, the inferiour Extremity of those Poles into the Body of those Trunks, from whence it happen'd, contrary to his expectation, that the Sap which was in the internal parts of those Trunks, serv'd for a nourishment to those Poles, just as if it had been a piece of good Earth, insomuch that in process of time, they grew to be large Trees.

Now Pliny upon this Example, and Theophrastus upon the other, lay the Foundation of the Reflections, which, as they say, have given birth to the Art of Graffing; for my part, far from opposing their Arguments, I willingly submit to them, and am very ready to believe that those two Observations may have given some insight for Graffing, to which I add at the same time, that cleft Graffs have undoubtedly been practis'd first, in imitation * 1.6 of the Peasants green Poles above mention'd: The success of those has since put our Gard∣ners upon trying new Experiments for Graffing, which we find very useful; therefore I own that we can never praise the first Authors of the use of Graffing too much, nor suffi∣ciently publish our Obligation to them for the main part of the innocent pleasures Fruit-Gardens afford us; for it is most certain, that without this admirable Expedient, we should to this hour, be all poor in respect to the different kinds of Fruits, since every body should have been reduc'd to the necessity of being satisfy'd with such as his Climate, or Chance had afforded him, whether good, or bad: It is the Skill of Graffing alone which has made the first Curioso's; the facility of Commerce has since increas'd the number ad Infinitum, by reason that People freely and generously communitate their choicest Production to one * 1.7 another, and that particularly, because such Liberalities do not in the least impair or di∣minish the stock or abundance of the Curious: And in truth, can any thing be so De∣lightful, and so Convenient, as to be able in the first place, by an easie Multiplication, which is at our Command, to inrich our selves with good Fruits; and secondly, to be also able to get from, and send to distant Countries Reciprocally, and at a very easie Rate, wherewith to Entertain the Persons of the greatest Quality, as well as the most solitary Desarts, as also to add to the good Cheer of Banquets, and relish the delicacy of the Pallate, as well as to Charm the Curiosity of the Eyes, and the greediness of the Nostrils? But a∣bove all, who can express the great satisfaction Gentlemen receive, who have made it their business to Graff in their Gardens? For Instance, one that shall have Graffed, in or∣der * 1.8 to make some Wildling change its Nature, another to multiply some good Fruits, and in both Cases, nothing can equal the Transports of our Gentleman Gard'ner, when coming to injoy the Fruit of his Industry, he shows his handy work, and imparts the Fruits it has produc'd. * 1.9

The History of Great Men, who have delighted in this Art, has sufficiently mention'd it, without my inserting any Particulars about it; therefore I shall only say, that as the great delight of the Famous Gard'ner of the Georgicks (which the Poet makes no scruple of Comparing to the Pleasure of Kings) consisted in finding at his coming home at night, wherewith to maintain, and treat his Family, without buying any thing, (no body can question but it was with the Fruit and Legumes of his Garden, seconded by some Profits of his Poultry, Dairy, &c.) so the Pleasure of our Curioso's consists in filling their Gardens with all manner of good Trees, which cost them nothing, that is, out of their Nurseries, without reckoning the satisfaction of being able to present them to those Friends they respect and value.

It were perhaps to be wish'd, in the Case of Graffs, that People had been satisfy'd with the bare improvement of that fine Invention, without pushing it to excess, and tormenting themselves to produce monstrous Fruits by a world of Projects, as ridiculous, as useless; our Books have endeavour'd to perswade us about the success thereof, but Ingenious Men give but little Credit to them: I believe there are but few, who upon the Report of some of the Ancients, have made it their business to Graff Vine upon Wallnut, or Olive-Trees, in hopes to get Bunches of Oyl, or to Graff good Fruits upon Plain-Trees, or Ash, and Cherries upon Lawrel, Chesnuts upon Beach Trees, Oaks, upon Elms, Wallnuts upon a Shrub, and all in hopes of raising new kinds of Fruits; and therefore, tho' with submission, and respect to the memory of Great Men, I must needs say, that all their Attempts have for the most part been faulty; it is sufficient that all good kinds of Fruits may be Graffed with success,

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upon Wildings, or other Stocks of a Nature approaching to theirs, and the only use * 1.10 we ought to make of the Visions of the Curiosos which have preceeded us, is to avoid falling in the same Inconvenience with them, in losing so much time and Pains, as they have done in making a thousand such Extraordinary Essays.

Now in order to enter upon the Matter, you must know, that, as I have already said else where, Graffing and Enter, or Ingrassing, are Sinonimous Terms, only us'd in Gard'ning, which without doubt are meerly of the Institution of our own Tongue, and my reason for it is, that they have no relation to the Latin Term Inserere, which appa∣rently has preceeded them, and signifies the same thing, with this difference, that it is much more significant; But however, to give as perfect a Notion of it as we can, we are oblig'd to say, that those two Terms have the same signification as the Latin Term, to Plant part of some Tree, which we valued, upon some part of another Tree, of which we do not like the kind; this manner of Planting is very singular, and causes, as the Prince of Poets tells us, the head of that last Tree to change its kind in the whole, or in part, according to the Intention of the Gard'ner; thus an Almond Tree, becomes a Peach Tree, a Quince Tree, a Pear-Tree, &c. Another Illustrious Poet of the same Age, casually speaking about that manner of Graffing, says very Ingeniously, that it is a kind of Adoption Introduc'd among Trees, by means of which good Trees are Multiply'd with ease, in making use of those Stocks which produc'd none that were good.

This alteration of Kind, or this Adoption cannot be perform'd, without some operati∣ons, * 1.11 of which the very names are Capable to strike People with Horror, Heads to be Saw'd, Arms to be Cut, Bodies to be split, Ligatures, Plaisters, Incisions, &c. The expli∣cation of what relates to this matter of Graffs, will unriddle this Mystery clearly.

In the first Place it is to be noted, that Graffing is not perform'd all the Year round, but only in certain Months; Secondly, that in relation to the Trees you Graff upon, you must of necessity Cut and retrench a great deal of them, sometimes immediately, and at other times, only five or six Months after, that is, a considerable part, either of the Stem or Branches; and that without meddling in the least with what we call the Foot of the Tree: This Tree being, as it were, Ignorant of what has been done to its Superiour Part, and Subsisting still, that is, continuing to Act in the Ground as it us'd to do, and tho it no longer has occasion to Nourish either the Stem or Branches, which it had Originally produc'd, and were its real Offspring; this Foot, I say, in obedience to the Gard'ners In∣dustry, labours to stretch out, thicken, multiply, and cause to Fructify, either the bare Eyes or Buds, or the foreign Branches that are Substituted, while small, upon its Stem or Branches, and those new Branches, in the sequel, taking the room of those that have been retrench'd, become the Adopted Children of that Foot, and Joyn so perfectly and so closely to it, that they appear to be absolutely its Legitimate Offspring; whence it follows, that its Functi∣on for the Future, is no other than to serve, as it were, for a Nurse to these new In∣fants:

In order to understand this Description of Graffs perfectly, which hitherto appears ob∣scure and enigmatick, it is necessary in the first Place to declare the different kinds of Graffs that are in use: Secondly, the proper time to make them; and finally the manner of making them well; there are great differences among the one and the others. In the next Place we shall add, which are the proper Stocks, that have a Natural Disposition to re∣ceive certain kinds of Fruits, and can agree with no other.

CHAP. XII.

Of the kind of Graffs that are in use.

THE Graffs that are most commonly us'd are Inarching, Budding or Inoculating, the Cleft, the Crown, or Graff's between the Wood and the Bark, and Whip-Graff∣ing.

Inarching is for Chesnuts, Marons, Fig-Trees, &c.

Budding or Inoculateing is for all manner of Fruits, both Kernel and Stone, and some∣times for other Trees that bear no Fruit.

The Cleft is also proper for all manner of good Fruit Trees, and even for other great Trees, provided both the one, and the other have, at least three or four Inches Circumfe∣rence at the place where the Graff is to be so perform'd; Clefts are not generally so proper

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for Stone Fruit, especially Peaches, as for Kernel Fruit; the Curiosos of some Provinces in Guyenne affirm the Contrary.

The Crown or Graffs between the Wood and the Bark, as well as Whip-Graffing, are particularly for thick Branches, or for thick shorten'd Stems of Kernel Fruit, and are nought for Stone Fruit, as well as for all Branches and Stems of a moderate Size, which are too weak to press their Graffs sufficiently.

CHAP. XIII.

Of Proper Times to Graff.

THE Proper Times to Graff, are First, the beginning of May, in which the Sap, being risen into the Trees, especially in the Branches of the preceeding years Growth, without the Eyes or Buds having shot yet, the Bark loosens easily, insomuch, that they may be stript with ease, which is necessary for those kind of Graffs in question. This Month of May is only proper for Inarching, which as we have already said, is only fit for Chesnut, Maron, and Fig-Trees, &c.

Secondly, The middle of June is proper for Inoculating, * 1.12 which is only to be us'd for certain Stone Fruits; for Instance, for Cherries, Morellos and Bigarreaux, upon a small bit∣ter Wild-Cherry, and Peaches upon old Almond-Trees, &c.

Thirdly, The Months of July and August, for Budding or Inoculating Trees, which by the small Vigour of their Foot, or else by reason of the excessive Heat and Draughts which happen sometimes at that Time, seem to have a visible, if not total dimunition of Sap; for you must know, that this way of Inoculating, with a close Eye or shut Bud, requires but little Sap, particularly from the Stock, upon which, after having made the necessary Incision, the Scutcheon must be apply'd: Too great an abundance of Sap in the Stock is pernicious to that apply'd Scutcheon, by reason that it is commonly Drown'd there with Gum, whereas it should only stick, without meeting any thing there for the remain∣der of the year capable of making it Shoot; it stands in need but of a very small help to preserve it from Death, in expectation of a kind of vigorous Resurrection, which the Spring Promises, when it recovers out of its Lethargy; as to the Twig from whence the Bud is taken, it can never have too much Sap, provided the Bark be sufficiently well nourish'd to strip with ease from the Wood it covers, and take along with it the Internal Sprout which forms the principal part of that Scutcheon; the Common Stocks which are Budded upon, during those two Months, are Plum-Stocks, for Plums, or Peaches, young Almond-Stocks Planted in an ill Ground for Peaches, Quince-Stocks for Pears, White-Thorns for Apricocks; Paradice-Stocks and Apple-Wildlings, for good Apples, &c.

The Month of September is proper for Inoculating Peach-Trees, upon Vigorous Peach-Stocks, or young Almond-Stocks, of that years Groweth; Planted in good Ground, both the one and the other have the gift of preserving abundance of Sap very safe; and they are only fit to Bud upon, at the Time of the Declining of that Sap.

We might Graff in the Cleft, during the Months of November, December, and January, but one is never the more forward, on the Contrary, it is much to be fear'd that the Graffs would Wither and absolutely Perrish, by reason that dur∣ing these Three Months, they receive no assistance from the Root, which at that time, by reason of the Cold, is, as it were, benum'd of all its Vegetative Functions.

All the Month of February, and a considerable part of March, are admirable for the Cleft, and for Whip-Graffing, but that is to be understood, when by reason of the length of the Colds of the Winter, the Season is not forward, and Consequently the Trees not yet enter'd into Sap, that is before the Bark quits the Wood; for as soon as ever it loosens, such Trees can no longer be Graffed in the Cleft that year. Therefore it is necessary, to provide betimes, particularly against that time, Graffs of Pears, Apples, Plums, &c. especially when they are to come from distant Countries.

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The end of March in mild Springs, I mean such, which instead of being accompani'd with Snows, and small Frosts, as it is usual, are Hot and Moist; the first half of April, particularly is very favourable for the Crown; by reason that the Sap must of necessity be sufficiently risen into those shorten'd Trunks, to be able to divide the Bark from the Wood, with small wedges made of Box, or Ebony, in order to faclitate the Lodging of the Graff, that has been prepar'd on purpose for it.

The Month of April is only proper to Graff all manner of Apple-Trees in the Cleft, by reason that those kind of Trees are not so easily mov'd to produce Sap as other Fruit-Trees are, and as I have declar'd already, the only time to Graff in the Cleft is a little be∣fore the Trees begin to Blossom and Shoot; the said Month of April is likewise Conve∣nient to Graff Vines, which can only be Graffed in the Cleft upon Trunks cover'd with Earth.

CHAP. XIV.

Of the manner of Performing all manner of Graffs.

HAving Explain'd the different sort of Graffs that are now in use, and the different * 1.13 Months of the Year, that are proper for each of them, there still remains to explain the proper manner of performing them; and therefore, I shall begin with the Description of the Graffing-Knife.

The Blade of this Graffing-Knife must be about two Inches long, with a small Handle, a full Inch longer than the Blade, or ordinary Knives, the overplus of the Handle must be flatten'd on the Extremity, and made round, about the Edges of that Extremity, in order to serve to loosen the Rind of the Wildlings with ease, upon which the Scutcheon is to be apply'd; the most Convenient Graffing-Knives, are those which close within the Handle, like Pruning-Knives, or like the Common Pocket-Knives that are made to fold.

Now since in the order I have observ'd for Graffs, I have begun with that which is perform'd first in the finest Season of the Year, viz. Inarching, I think it will be proper to begin this Chapter with the manner of doing it as it should be; and therefore, I say, that in order to succeed in it, in the first place the Twig that is designed to Graff with, which you must hold in your hand before you begin, in order to make the necessary Com∣parisons the better, between the Twig and the Branch that it is to be Graffed upon, either with Thred, Rush, Ribbon, &c. by reason that this Twig must be exactly of the same thickness with the Branch you are to Graff upon; for it being thicker or smaller, the Graff will not succeed. Next, you must chuse a fine Place upon the said Twig, having two good Eyes or Buds, looking regularly the one on one side, the other on the other, and with your Graffing-Knife, or other sharp Instrument you must cut the Bark of the Piece you are to take off for the Graff, Circularly to the very Wood, both at the top and bottom; you must take off all the Bark which covers the smallest part of the said Twig, in order to make that Piece come out there, which is to be taken off after having loosen'd it from its Wood, by twisting it gently with the Thumb: But before you take it quite out of its Place, you must shorten the Branch that is to be Graffed upon, four or five Inches, and without wounding the Wood, you must strip it intirely in a very sound, and very smooth place, unto the lower part where the Graff is to come, that it may fit it so exactly, that it may rather be thought it grew there Naturally, than by Art, and imme∣diately, in order not to permit a small Moisture which lyes round about the part so stript, which is the Sap newly risen, to Evaporate, you must make an end of taking the piece that is design'd for the Graff, out of its Place, and Lodge it with all the Diligence, and dexterity imaginable within the Branch so stript, to the place where 'tis to remain, and * 1.14 finally to hinder the moisture of the Air from penetrating into the space between the Wood of the Branch that is Graffed, and the Bark that is newly applied, you must raise small Shavings out of the Wood of the Branch round about the Superiour Extremity of that Graff, without putting them off, and make them hang like a kind of Ruff on the Extremity of that Bark, to cover, and shelter it from the Injuries of the Air.

Inocculating or Budding, A la Pouce, (which I take to be with an open Bud) and with the close Eye, or shut Bud, only differ as to the Time of performing them, as we have alrea∣dy

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observ'd; they are both perform'd in the same manner, the first thing to be done in order to it, is, to take from the Tree you design to Graff with, Cyons of that years Growth perfectly at a stand, upon which you find good Eyes or Buds, likewise at a stand, and they are those which have been first form'd since the Spring, those that are form'd last being too tender to Succeed: As soon as those Twigs are cut, you must take off the Leaves close to the Place where they stick to their Stalk, by which means the Eyes or Buds will not Wither so soon; the Cyons may be preserv'd three or four days, provided the Butt end be plac'd in Water, or any thing that is Moist, and the Twig not above half a Foot long; insomuch that one may very well cut a Twig that is two Foot long into several Pieces: With these two Precautions you may very well send those Twigs newly cut from the Tree, thirty or forty Leagues off (Note, that if they be Twigs taken from Peach-Trees, you must seldom take any Scutcheons from them, unless the Eyes be double or treble, that is, unless you find the beginning of a growing Branch accompani'd with Leaves, and two begin∣nings of Fruit Buds to the Right and Left, or other Branches to come) as for other Fruits, Pears, Apples, Plums, &c. a single Eye is as good as a double, or treble one, &c.

When you are ready to Bud, you must Chuse upon the Branch, or Stem you design to Inoculate upon, a fine smooth place, which is generally met with, in the space which divides the inferior Eye from another which is immediately above it, where you must make two Incisions representing a great Roman T, that is the upper Incision Horizontal, and the second beginning near the middle of the first Slit descending downwards, about an Inch or an Inch and a half in length; these two Incisions may be made before you take off the Scutcheon you are to apply, provided the Rind of the Wildling be not separated until the Scutcheon be ready; by reason that it is necessary that the Scutcheon should meet with some Moisture in that part of the Wildling it is to be apply'd to, and that this Moisture should proceed from the Sap, which must Glue it to the said Wildling; otherwise the place being Dry, the Graff would Perish, therefore the safest way is to begin by taking off the Scutcheon before you make your Incision on the Wildling; now in order to take off the Scutcheon, particularly for Peaches, you must make an Incision like to the

[illustration]
Figure A upon the Twig or Shoot, in that part where you observe a good Eye or Bud, which is partly the Figure of the Scutcheon of a Coat of Arms, from whence Gard'ning has borrowed that Term of Scutcheon, after which pressing the Thumb close upon the sides of that Incision towards that part which is near the Eye that is contain'd within the space of the Incision, it is easily loosen'd from the Twig, provided the Sap be plentiful there, otherwise, tho even in the Case of Peach-Trees, the Scutcheon must be raised with a Wedge of Wood, which must be perform'd by Slipping the Graffing-Knife under the Bark from the Head of the Scutcheon to the Point, biting a little into the Wood, especially about the Eye, &c.

As to the Scutcheons of Kernel Fruits, they can hardly be taken off otherwise than with a Piece of Wood: When the Scutcheon is taken off, you must look whether the inward Sprout, which is the Channel through which the Sap is Communicated for the Production of a new Branch, hold to the said Scutcheon, as it must absolutely do, which being so you shall hold this Scutcheon in your Mouth, only between your Lips by the end of the Stalk of the remaining Leaves, by reason that Spittle might prejudice it; in the mean time take care to separate the Rind dexterously, by degrees, with the flaten'd end of your Knife, without leaving any thing along the two long sides of the Incision, being careful that the Incision may be somewhat longer towards the Point than the Scutcheon, then take the Scutcheon out of your Mouth, and presenting the pointed part thereof to the Horizontal Incision, make it slide down all along the Incision; insomuch that it may be Lodg'd there intirely, and especially that it may fill up all that part which is stript at the Head of the Incision, and finally that the sides of the Bark that are loosen'd, may afterwards come to cover all the Scutcheon, excepting the Eye, this being done, you must take course flat Flax, wherewith you must gently, and neatly, tye the Scutcheon, the loosen'd Bark, and the

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Branch together, to the end that they may the better joyn together, and there ends the Mystery of Inoculating, or Budding, with this difference only, that when it is perform'd in * 1.15 June, the Branch, or Stem so Budded, must be immediately shorten'd within two or three Inches of the Scutcheon; to the end that the Sap being hinder'd from ascending higher (as it naturally would do) it may be forc'd to enter into that Scutcheon, in order to make it shoot soon after: Meriziers, a small wild bitter Cherry, so Budded, commonly succeed better than any Fruit-Trees, and especially better than Peach-Trees Budded in June, either upon other Peach Trees, or Old Almond Trees; by reason that they are very subject to pe∣rish with Gum, and that by an over-abundance of Sap, which being in the Summer in the Trees that are Inoculated, and not finding a sufficient Issue at the overture of the Eye of that Scutcheon, comes out at the Incision, there Congeals like Blood out of the Veins, and absolutely destroys the said Scutcheon; but when this Inoculation is perform'd with a close Eye, or shut Bud, neither the Branch, or Stem so Graffed, must be immediately shorten'd, you must tarry until the Month of March following, which is the time that the Sap begins to mount up into the Trees again, which is the proper time to shorten them in the same manner we have express'd for the Budding in June, the same reason serving for both, provided always, that before that time, that is, during the Winter, the Flax which did tie the Scutcheon, has been cut neatly, without wounding the Bark that was cover'd by the said Flax; for unless it were cut, all the part so tied, and what is above it, would be apt to perish for want of a sufficient passage for the Sap, which would ascend to the Ex∣tremity of the Branch, and thereby all pains taken about the Inoculation, would prove vain, while the lower part below it, would shoot abundance of Wild Twigs, of no use.

The Description of the Cleft we have in the Georgicks, tho' admirable in it self, might * 1.16 yet be much better, if it were more compleat, more particular, and more instructive; it only tells us, that in order to Perform this Graff, the head of the Trees must be cut off, in that part where the Stem appears most even, and least knotty, that we must cleave the said Stock pretty deep with Wedges, and finally, that we must lodge Cyons of better Fruits into those Clefts, which in time produce fine large Trees.

The Reading of that Description does not appear sufficient to me, to Instruct a new Learner in the Art of Graffing, to perform it as it should be, it is deficient in several Ar∣ticles, First, because it does not inform us that we may not only Graff upon thick short∣en'd Stocks, but also that it may be done upon several Branches of Trees, either Dwarfs, or tall Standards, even upon Stocks of two or three Inches Circumference, provided they be capable of suffering the Cleft, and of closing the Graff sufficiently.

It is defective in the Second place, in not specifying the proper time for those kind of Graffs. We have explain'd it already.

Thirdly, It is defective, in not fixing the length of the Twigs that are employ'd about it: We commonly regulate it to two or three Inches in length, or rather upon the num∣ber of three good Buds at least, which the Graff must have.

Fourthly, it is deficient, in neither teaching us how to Prune the Graffs well, nor how to place them so exactly in the only places that are proper for them, that the Sap of the Foot may enter securely into them: As for the Pruning of those Graffs, in order to per∣form it well, the Butt-end of them must be Cut with a very sharp Pruning-Knife, on both sides in the form of a Wedge, about half a large Inch in length, preserving on the two sides which Edge that Figure of a Wedge, some Bark sticking very close to the Wood; the side which is to be most outward must be somewhat broader, and thicker, than the other which is inward, and precisely on the top of that Bark preserv'd for the outside, you must have a good Eye, or Bud, as high as the edge of the shorten'd Stock, and the upper part of the Cleft; and as to the well-placing of the Graffs, the inside of the Barks, both of the Wildling, and of the Graffs, must be so exactly sitted, that the Sap rising from the Foot, may as easily enter into the space between the Wood, and the Bark of the Graff, as between the Wood and the Bark of the Stock, or Branches Graffed upon.

The Description is likewise deficient, in the Fifth place, in not observing, that in case the Cleft be not made very curiously, as it happens often, you must pare it with your Pru∣ning-Knife, removing whatever might obstruct or hinder the Graff from entring freely, nay more, in case there be cause to judge that the Graff, by being a little too small, in pro∣portion to the Stock, may be a little too much press'd, it is necessary to pare the wood on both sides of the Cleft very neatly, and very smoothly, which is to be done with the point of a very sharp Pruning-Knife, beginning from the lower part upwards, and all this so exactly, and so conformably to the Figure of the Branch that has been cut for the Cleft Graff, that after having lodg'd the Graff, there may appear no vacuity between it, and the sides of the Cleft; and yet, that the Graff may stick so close, that it may not be easie to move it.

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Sixthly, The Description is defective, in not mentioning how many Graffs may be ap∣ply'd upon one Stock, and how the upper part of the Stem being Cut must be prepar'd; large Stocks, or Branches that are to be Graff'd in the Cleft, must be very smooth at top, and equal on all sides, insomuch that the head may be Horizontal, to place several Graffs upon it, if there be room, and the Stock requires it; small Stocks, or Branches that cannot receive above one Graff, must only be smooth'd in one part of the Head; and if that part where the Graff is to be apply'd, the remainder must be Cut like the Foot of a Hind.

Finally, the said Description is defective in not informing us how to secure our Graff'd Trees, and hinder them from being prejudic'd by the Injuries of the Air, Rains, Heats, and Droughts, through the overtures of the Cleffs, whereupon it is to be noted, that all Cleft Graffs must be swadled with fine Earth, and Hay newly prepar'd, or else with Gum prepar'd to that end, compos'd either of black fat Pitch, melted in an Iron Pot, or Earth mix'd with a little yellow Wax, the said Gum must be kept hot, and liquid, over a Chaffing-Dish, to be apply'd with a kind of Wooden Trule; but before you apply either the Earth, and Hay, or the Gum, you must cover all the Crannies with some Barks, immediately loosen'd from some Branch of the Tree that is Graffed; they are commonly put crosswise on large Stocks, or Graff'd Branches, in order to cover the Clefts so well, that nothing may get into them; and whereas we generally cover the Earth, and Hay, with a piece of Linnen to keep it fix'd about the Head that is Graff'd, which has some resemblance to a Child's Baby, we often call the Cleft Graff a Baby-Graff: Nota, that when the Stock does not seem to press the Graff sufficiently, it must be bound about with some tender Twigs of an Ozier, in order to secure the Graff.

I conclude what relates to Cleft Graffs, after having declar'd what I can say about Wedges; which is, that before you make use of them to open the Cleft, you must, in case it be a large Stock, begin the Cleft with the edge of a pretty large Knife, apply'd upon the whole breadth of the Trunk, or Branch, striking with a Hammer upon it, in order to make the said edge enter pretty deep into the Wood, and thereby mark the Cleft in question: Stocks of a moderate size are easily enough Cleft with the bare edge of the Knife, without the help of a Hammer.

[illustration]

The Wedges to be Convenient must be made according to the Model of this Figure, one of the Hooks being thicker, longer, and stronger than the other, which is to serve for large Stocks, and the other being both shorter, smaller, and weaker, for small ones: In order to use those Wedges, that which seems best proportion'd for the Stock that is to be Graffed upon, must be plac'd in the middle of the Cleft that is begun, and when it cannot enter sufficiently, to make the Overture that is necessary, it must be driven in with a Hammer: In fine, the Cleft being partly large enough, to lodge the Graff into it, you must raise or pull down the end of the Tool that serves for a Wedge, with the left hand, in the mean time, with the right, placing the Graff, Cut as aforesaid, to the place where it is to remain; and thus you may make an end of stretching, or closing the Cleft, according as you may judge it proper, when the Graff, or Graffs are plac'd as they should be. I need not tell you, that one Cleft may serve to place two Graffs opposite to one another, and when two more can be plac'd, a second Cleft may be made Croswise upon the Stock, altogether like the first, using the same Method prescrib'd about the two first Graffs.

We sometimes call it Graffing in the Crown, when we place four Graffs Cleftwise upon a Stock, that is large enough to receive them Conveniently; but it is more particularly call'd so, when upon very large shorten'd Stocks we place a greater number of Graffs be∣tween the Wood, and the Bark, for instance, 6, 7, 8. and therefore this kind of Graff, as well as that we call Whip-Graffing can only be perform'd upon such Stocks as exceed three or four Inches Diameter, which cannot be Cleft; but we seldom use either of them, by reason that the success is very uncertain, and the trouble of making them very Considera∣ble;

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to that end Twigs are us'd about half an Inch Circumference, with four or five good Eyes, or Buds in their length; they must be Cut slantingly at the Butt-end, insomuch that the slope may be about an Inch long, and that the upper part of it may be Cut close to the Pitch of the said Twig, in order to be as small as possible can be at the end, and where∣as the Sap, which begins to rise from the Foot, passes betwixt the Wood, and the Bark of the Graff, those sloping sides must be plac'd on the side of the Bark of the shorten'd Stock, by which means the Graff will receive its nourishment. But before you place those Graffs, you must take out a little of the Wood of the Stock with a small Joyner's Chizzel, from those parts where it is to be plac'd, loosening the Bark with a tough Wooden Wedge, striking dextrously with a Hammer upon the said Wedge, without prejudicing the Bark; the Graff being lodg'd, the same thing must be done, we have already de∣clar'd to secure the Cleft Graffs from the injuries of the Air.

As for Whipp-Graffing, Slopes or Notches must be made into the Bark, and into the Wood of the shorten'd Stocks, chusing Twigs about an Inch in Circumference, Cutting the Graffs in the same manner as those that are for the Cleft, proportioning the Twig so Cut, so exactly to the Notch of the Stock, that it may enter with some small difficulty, to the end, that the inside of the Barks may meet exactly, and that no space may remain be∣tween the sides of the Graff, and the slop'd, or notch'd sides of the Stock; this being done, you must take one or two large Oziers to bind the Head so Graffed, as firm as can be, that the Graffs may not easily be moved; doing moreover to secure the Head from the Injuries of the Air, what we have already prescrib'd for the Graffs in the Cleft, and in the Crown.

The Authors, and particularly the Ancients, who have written about Graffs, have all * 1.17 made mention of a certain Inoculating, as of a particular manner of Graffing; saying that this Inoculation is to be perform'd by placing the Scutcheon in such a manner, that the Eye or Bud thereof may be exactly plac'd upon that part where there was another Eye before the Incision was made, and they pretend that it is the best Method of applying the Scut∣cheon. Nay, moreover I do believe that they were of Opinion that the Sap of the Stock Graffed upon, could not enter into the Eye or Bud of the said Scutcheon, unless it were inclin'd to it by the Interiour Figure which remains upon the Wood that is strip'd, after the Eye is taken away: To which I answer, in the first place, That the daily Experience of all Gard'ners sufficiently confutes that Opinion, without my insisting upon it: Second∣ly, I answer, not only that there is no advantage by that Inoculating; but moreover, that it is almost impracticable, by reason that the Scutcheon cannot thrive, unless it be absolutely glued to the part to which it is apply'd; and consequently that part must be as smooth as the Scutcheon, which cannot be when a Scutcheon is apply'd upon an Eye, or Bud, which is an Elevated part, that forms a kind of Stub, contrary to what must be plain, and smooth: I have often try'd those Inoculatings, but have always lost my time, and Labour.

CHAP. XV.

Which are the Stocks that have a natural Disposition to re∣receive some kinds of Fruits, each in particular, and to re∣ceive no others.

THE Fruits in question in the Case of Graffing, are reduc'd to those we know by the Names of Pears, Apples, Plums, Peaches, Cherries, Figs, Azerolles, Quince-Apples, Grapes, Sweet-Almonds: To these we might add Medlars, tho' few Gentlemen care for them: As to Oranges, Lemons, and Pomegranats, I have given a sufficient ac∣count about them, in the Treatise of Orange-Trees. Goosberries, Raspberries, Melons, Strawberries, and Avelins are not in the rank of Fruits that may be improv'd by Graffing. Pears succeed very well, Graffed upon Pear-Wildlings grown from Trunks in Woods, and Forrests, and they are the best Fruits to Graff, especially in the Cleft for Dwarfs, they are not fit to be Graffed Scutcheon-wise, their Bark being too thick for it; those Wildlings are likewise very proper for High-standards Graffed in the Cleft. Wildlings grown from Kernels in Nurseries, and the Suckers that shoot from the Roots of the Foot of Old Pear-Trees in Orchards, are likewise good to Graff Pears upon; either to be Budded while they are very young, or Graff'd in the Clef when they are grown large; but they are much

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better for Tall-Standards, than for Dwarfs; they are too Vigorous to remain Low, and to submit to the hardships of Pruning.

Quince-stocks, especially such as are very sound, and produce large Leaves, and fine shoots, and have a smooth shining blackish Bark (they are call'd Females, and those that are wrinkled, and shrunk, Males; tho' for my part, I do not admit that difference of Names; it is an Act of Vegetation, in which I only distinguish the degrees of Vigour in every Foot) those kind of good Quince-stocks, I say, are admirable to Graff all manner of Pears upon, against a Wall, or for Dwarf-standards, with a Scutcheon: Nay, sometimes they will grow to be High-standards, being Planted against a Wall, otherwise they are apt to unglue, that is, to separate cleverly from the part where they are Graffed, in great Storins of Wind: The Cleft is seldom, or never proper for those kind of stocks, unless the Quince-stock be large enough to press the Graff close, and even then they must be us'd but seldom.

Nota, That there are some kind of Pears which are difficult to take upon Quince-stocks; for instance, Summer Musky Bon-Chretiens; and Portails; to which I add, lastly, that Pear-Trees Graffed, have as it were that Complaisance for one another, to serve each other Reciprocally for stocks for a change of Graffs: Yet, notwithstanding, some are peevish, and untoward in that Case; for Example, Thick-stalk'd-Pears; Pears are sometimes Graffed upon Apple-stocks, either Wildlings, or Paradice, and upon White-Thorns, and Medlars, but commonly they are not lasting, or else they pine: There is certainly a kind of Antipathy in their Saps, insomuch that they cannot mix together, and can suffer no Commerce of Graffing.

The same thing I have been saying of Pear-Wildlings, and Quince-Trees, in relation to the Graffs of Pear-Trees, which succeed very well upon them, must be said of Apple-Wildings, either grown from Trunks, or Kernels, or Suckers of the Roots of Old Apple-Trees, in Relation to the Apples that are Graffed upon them, with this difference only, which seems surprizing between the Quince, and Paradice-stocks, that the Paradice-stocks, being any thing large, are extraordinary good Graffed in the Cleft, and seldom succeed Graffed with a Scutcheon; whereas it is the clean contrary with Quince-stocks.

Moreover, Apple-Wildings, whatever they be, and however Graffed, are fit to make High-standards, but not in the least fit for Dwarfs; and the quite contrary with Paradice-stocks; insomuch, that Apple-Trees must never be Planted to remain Dwarfs, and take up little room, unless they be Graffed upon Paradice-stocks, these quickly bear Fruit, and shoot but little Wood; the others are a long while producing nothing but a vast quantity of Wood, which makes excessive large Trees, and are long before they bear Fruit: Apples Graffed upon Pear-Trees, or Quince, succeed no better than the Pears that are ventur'd to be Graff'd upon Apple-stocks, or Paradice; altho' the Poet seems of a different Opi∣nion, but I rather believe, that he uses indifferently, for all that relates to Kernel-Fruits, the Terms of Pyrus, Pyrum, Pomus, Pomum.

Plum-Trees are neither Graffed in the Cleft, nor Budded, unless upon other Plum-Trees, * 1.18 and that only upon a small number of kinds, for Instance, upon St. Julians, Black Damask, and little Cherry-Plum, &c. and seldom succeed upon good kinds; for Example, upon Perdrigons, Apricock-Plums, St. Catherin's, &c. I have sometimes Graffed some Plums in the Cleft upon large Almond stocks, which have done indifferent well; but where I suc∣ceeded in one, I lost a great many others, and therefore there is but little to be got in making those kind of Trials.

Peaches, to succeed well, must be Budded, and seldom Graffed in the Cleft, at least in our Climes. Secondly, they must be Inoculated with the close Eye, or shut Bud, and that in a proper Season, as we have heretofore declar'd, either upon St. Julian Plums, or black Damask, or upon Apricock Trees already Graffed, or upon young Almond-Trees of that years growth; they seldom succeed upon Stones of other Peach, or Apricock Trees; neither do Peaches succeed better being Graffed upon the Principal kinds of Plums, than the Plum-Trees themselves, as we have said already; Peaches Budded in the Month of June, are more apt to deceive the Gard'ners hope, than to confirm it; for the Scutcheon either perishes with Gum, without having shot, or often perishes after having shot; or lastly, as it commonly Shoots but weakly during that first Summer, it perishes the following Winter by Cold and by Ice, therefore, they must seldom be Graffed, and that but casually, and upon Stocks, that otherwise would be of no use.

Among what is vulgarly call'd Cherries, we reckon Merises, or a small Wild Cherry, both White and Black, White and Black Hearts, Early and Late Cherries, Griotes, Bigareaux Cerisiers de Pied, White Cherries.

All these kind of Cherries are Graffed except the Meriziers, or small White bitter Cherry, which are not worth it, but then those Meriziers, especially the White ones, which grow

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in the Fields, and in Vineyards from each others Suckers, are very good Stocks to Graff other Principal kinds upon; viz. Hasty and Late Cherries, Hearts, Griotes, Bigarreaux, &c. Suckers which Spring from the Root of other Cherries, Produce pretty good Cherries, and serve to be Graffed upon, particularly with Early Cherries, which are a kind of Cherry of a Moderate Size, that are seldom Planted but in Espaliers, to produce Fruit betimes; they are most Valued for their Earliness, and are no longer minded when the fine Cherries which come soon after begin to appear; Early Cherries require no very Vigorous Stocks, as the Merisiers do, which have a far greater Disposition to Shoot abundance of VVood that to bear Fruit Speedily.

You may Graff Fig-Trees if you please, but as I have already said in the Treatise of the Choice of Figs, there accrues but little Advantage by Graffing of them.

Azerolles are Budded, or Graffed in the Cleft, Particularly upon the VVhite-Thorn; they are likewise Graffed some times upon small Pear-VVildlings which Succeed pretty well, and sometimes upon Quince, and Graffed Pear-Trees, but the Success is not very certain.

As for the Quince-Apple it is seldom Graffed, by reason that Quince-Trees Produce Fruit so easily of themselves, yet they may be Graffed upon one another; thus you may Graff Portugal-Quince-Trees upon French ones, you may likewise Graff them upon Pear-Trees, whether Graffed, or Wildlings.

Vines are only Graffed upon old Plants of other Vines, and only in the Cleft; they are shorten'd on purpose for it, and when the Graff is made, the Place so shorten'd must be cover'd with Earth, yet without covering the Twigs or Cyons that are Graffed, the Heat of the Sun, and Drought, would kill the Graff, if it were left expos'd to the Air like the Cleft-Graffs of other Fruit-Trees; there is this difference between the Cleft Graff of Vines, and that of other Fruit-Trees, that the Graff is plac'd indifferently in the middle, or on the sides of the shorten'd Trunk, which cannot be done to other Fruit Trees Graffed in the Cleft, as we have observ'd heretofore.

Meddlar Trees are Graffed either upon other Meddlars, or upon VVhite-Thorn, or Pear-VVildlings, or Pears Trees already Graffed, or else upon Quince-Stocks.

Almond-Trees whether with hard or tender Nuts, grow most Commonly from Almonds put into the Ground, or Graffed upon one another.

CHAP. XVI.

Of Nurseries and Seminaries.

IT is proper to begin this Chapter, by saying that our Nurseries require a good Easie Soil, or ground, well Till'd, having at least two Foot and a half Depth; the Trees must be placed in rows at three Foot distance, according to the largeness of the Trees, and at a Foot and a half, two or three Foot distance from one another in the said rows, still according to the proportion of the Sizes: Of all VVildlings Almonds are plac'd closest in the Rows. Tis easy to conclude, from what I have been saying in the foregoing Chap∣ter, about all kinds of Fruits to be Graffed, what kind of Stocks are most proper to make Nurseries of all kind of Fruits.

First, for Pears you must Plant VVildlings out of VVoods and Forests, or VVildlings grown from Kernels, or Suckers Sprouted from the Roots of old Pear-Trees, or else Plant Quince-Trees, all which must be well Condition'd both as to the Roots and Stem.

Secondly, For the Apple-Tree Seminary; when you design to have them High-Standards, you must Plant pretty large VVildlings, taken out of VVoods and Forrests, to Graff them in the Cleft, or Kernel VVildlings to Inoculate them, when they are about two Inches Cir∣cumference, and are to shoot up, in order to become High-Standards; and when you de∣sign to make a Seminary of Dwarfs, you must Plant Paradice-Apple-Trees, at a Foot di∣stance in the rows: And that, by reason that those kind of little Apple-Trees shoot but few Roots, and Consequently require but little Room.

Thirdly, To make a Seminary of Plum-Trees, you must only Plant the Suckers of certain Plum-Trees, viz, St. Julian, Black-Damask, the little Cherry-Plum, those that are large enough to bear it, are Graffed in the Cleft, and the lesser with the Scutcheon.

Fourthly, Good Seminaries for Peaches, must consist of St. Julian, and Black Damask Plum-Trees, which must be Inoculated or Budded in the Months of July or August, or young Almond-Trees, that is, Almond-Trees grown from an Almond Plant∣ed

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in good Grounds in the VVinter time, grown about September following half an Inch thick, to be Budded at that time: Old Almond-Trees of two or three Years standing are hot proper to be Graffed.

Fifthly, to make Nurseries of red Stone-fruit, viz. Cherries, Griottes, Bigarreaux; no Stocks are so proper as Merisiers, which is a small wild bitter Cherry, especially such as beat whitish ones; the Sap of the black ones is commonly so bitter, that the Graffs of good Cherries do not take upon them, or always pine away.

Suckers which spring from the Roots of other Cherries may serve to Graff good Cherries upon, but they are most proper to be Graffed with early Cherries.

Sixthly, Fig-Tree Seminaries are Planted with Suckers sprouted from the Foot of Old Fig-Trees, or with Branches of two years standing laid into the Ground, and notch'd in that part which is most bent, and laid into that Ground.

Seventhly, for the Nursery of Azeroles, you must only Plant White-Thorn, and some few Quince-stocks.

Eighthly, no Nurseries are made for Vines, they are seldom Graffed otherwise than upon Old Plants, ready Planted.

Finally, for Medlars, People seldom make any particular Nurseries, the least quantity of them is sufficient, a dozen Wildlings of that kind, or White-Thorn, or Quince-stocks; are sufficient to provide for the Largest Gardens.

Before I proceed to the Sixth Part, I think it will not be altogether improper to give my Opinion about the different kinds of Lattices, to the end that People may determine at first to pitch upon that which I value most, and indeed, which is the most Noble, and most Convenient.

CHAP. XVII.

Of the different manners of Lattices us'd to Pallisade.

FRom the very Moment we resolve to Enclose our Garden with Walls, we certainly design to have Fruit against them, and consequently must prepare whatever is neces∣sary * 1.19 to Pallisade the Trees that are to be Planted there, neatly, and Conveniently.

The First Observation I have made in Relation thereto, is, that one cannot be too careful in having the Walls well Pargetted, or Plaistred over when it can be done Con∣veniently; in order to stop all the holes from Rats, Snails, Earwigs, and other Vermin which destroy the Fruits, and commonly attack the Fairest, and best, and thereby con∣tinually Plague the Curious.

When the Walls are Pargetted with Plaister, we have the Convenience to Ply, or Pal∣lisade the Branches with Nails, and Shreads of Sheep's-Skin, or Shamoy, or Lists of Cloath, both about half a finger broad, and a finger long against the said Walls, put∣ting the Stays about the Branch, and fixing it upwards with a Nail, we thus form the Figure of our Trees. This manner of Pallisading is very agreeable, but tedious; those Shreads may last a year or two, the only thing that can be said against it is, that sometimes Earwigs shelter in them in the day time, and come out at Night, to in∣dammage the Trees.

Those who are not willing to use those Shreads, have try'd three or four ways of Pallisading, some for all manner of Walls, but especially for such as are made of Earth, and Hey, as they do in Beausse, and Normandy; some fix Spikes from space to space into the Wall, sticking out about two Inches, to fasten Laths, Poles, Perches, or Switches upon them: Others make a Lattice of Poles, supported by the Bones of Horses, or Oxen, fix'd into the Wall, to which they fasten the Branches of their Trees: Others have abundance of Sheeps feet Bones fix'd into their Walls at a small distance, in a straight Line, and so bind every Branch of their Tree to one of the said Feet; some make a Lattice of narrow Laths nail'd a cross one another checker-wise, every square consisting of about twelve Inches; and this Lattice being made by whole, or half Fathoms, separate, they fix them to the Walls with Nails, or Hooks, that are driven into the joynts of the Stones; it is a pretty good Expedient, but neither Gentile, nor Handsom.

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Some who yet covet cheapness beyond these, make a Lattice of Brass or Iron Wire, of a moderate size, supported by flat-headed Nails fix'd into the Walls. Others have been satisfy'd with barely fixing streight Lines of this Wire, either longwise, or crosswise: These two last Methods are pretty neat, but not very good; both by reason that they are too weak, insomuch that the thick Branches, that sometimes require to be forc'd, either break, of▪ stretch them; and that this Wire is apt to wound and scratch the young, and consequently tender Branches, which occasions Gum to grow upon them, which destroys them; besides, those young Shoots slip too easily behind those Wires, from whence it is not easie to remove them, without spoiling of them.

The best manner of all, the most Convenient, and most Noble, is a Lattice of quar∣ter Wood, or Heart of Oak; every Pole or Lath about an Inch square, and as much as can be without knobs, they must be very well plain'd, and notch'd in such places as re∣quire it; those that are not plain'd, are course, and ugly. I confess that this Lattice is chargeable at first, but then it is more lasting, and requires less mending: The square fathom of that Lattice amounts constantly to 25, 26, 27, and 28 Pence, for the Wood, Making, Wire and all.

In order to make this Lattice as it should be, you must have Iron Hooks made on purpose, they must be square, about a quarter of an Inch thick, and half a Foot long; besides, the end which turns upwards in a streight Angle, which must be above an Inch and a half long, the end which enters into the Wall, must be forked, to hold the faster into the Wall, into which it must enter about four Inches deep, two Inches on the outside will suffice.

Those Hooks cost commonly about a Penny a piece, they must be plac'd at three foot distance, and always Checker-wise, beginning the first Row within a foot of the surface of the Ground, continuing it to the top of the Wall; the rows of those Hooks must lie in a streight Line, and parallel to one another; that is all I have to say about the Hooks.

As to the Poles, or Laths, you may buye them in Shops, of different lengths, Viz. Of Four Foot and a half, of Six, Seven, Eight, or Nine; some are made of twelve Foot, but seldom, because it is too difficult to slit such long pieces of Wood; you may take them of what length you please, according to the heighth of your Walls; they are Sold in Bundles, those of Four Foot and a half, contain Forty, and Cost Eleven Pence, those of Six, cost Twelve Pence, and contain Five and Twenty; those of Seven, Eight, and Nine; likewise contain Twenty Five, and cost somewhat more.

The best and most useful way is to make those that stand upwards all of a piece, when you can, but yet you may joyn two or three, such as you can get, and they are much cheaper; they must be joyn'd together neatly, plaining and proportioning the Extremities that are to be Marry'd together exactly, tying them afterwards very close with Wire; to which end, you must use small Pinchers made on purpose, with which you may pull the Wire towards you, and turn and wind it until the Ligature be strong enough, then break the end close to the knot, and fasten the said knot against the Laths, lest it should prejudice the Gard'ner, or Branch.

In chusing the Poles, or Laths, take the streightest, and weakest, to serve in a streight Line, by reason that they always appear on the outside, placing the Butt-end downwards; the strongest must be imploy'd crosswise to support the Work; the Squares of the Lattice must be regularly about 7 or 8 Inches, they do not look well of ten or twelve Inches, and in my Opinion, they are too little of 5 or 6 Inches for Espaliers; but they may be im∣ploy'd for those kind of Arbors, that are of late in fashion. A good Maker of Lattice should never work without a regulated measure in hand for his Checkers, measuring every one of them carefully; he must leave an Inch between the Laths, and the Wall, and when the Hooks are too short, he must make use of a Wooden Wedge, and hold it between the Laths, and the Wall, in order to have more room to pass his Wire.

The Lattice must not only appear neatly made to the Eye, it must also be solid, which is easily known by shaking one of the Laths; for it is not as it should be unless it resists the hand.

I must not forget to tell you, that you must use but one straight Lath in Corners, to fasten the two Lattices of two Walls that joyn, two would look clumsily, the one on one side of a Wall, the other, on the other.

The last Perfection of our Lattice consists in being painted first with White, and when that is dry, with a fine Mountain Green.

We do not only make Lattice frames for Walls, we likewise make them sometimes for a kind of Counter-Espalier, or Pole-Hedges, which Lattice frames may be made four, five, or six foot high, according as you please: In Order to its being solid, it is necessary to stick

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Oaken Spikes into the Ground, at five or six foot distance from one another, about four Inches square, driving them about a foot deep into the ground, the outward Extremity being pointed, to last the longer, for if it were square, the Rain would Rot it the sooner; as for the size, and the place to fasten the Wire, the Checkers must be like those of the Espaliers, with this only difference; that in Pole-Hedges, the Poles or Laths must be fix'd with Nails into the Body of the Spikes, which must be notch'd in order thereunto.

The End of the Fifth Part.

Notes

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