Cosmographie in four bookes : containing the chorographie and historie of the whole vvorld, and all the principall kingdomes, provinces, seas and isles thereof / by Peter Heylyn.

OF GVATIMALA.

GVATIMALA is bounded on the North by Jucutan, and the Golf of Honduras; on the South with Mare del Zur; on the East (or South-east rather) with Castella Aurea; on the West with New Spain. Extended 300 leagues in length upon the Coasts of Mare del Zur; but measuring by a strait line, not above 240: the breadth thereof 180 leagues, where broadest; in most places narrower. So called from Guatimala the chief Province; as that from the prime City of it, honoured with the seat of the Governour, and the Courts of Justice.

The nature of the soil and people (if differing in any material thing from those before) we will con∣sider in the View of those several parts into which this Country is divided. The principal whereof, 1 Chiapa, 2 Verapaz, 3 Guatimala specially so called, 4 Honduras, 5 Niceragua, 6 Veragua. The rest of less note, easily reduced to these.

1 CHIAPA hath on the West New Spain, on the East Verapaz; on the North, part of Jucutan; and Mare del Zur, upon the South. Extended 40 leagues in length, not much less in breadth; and antiently inhabited by four Nations, all of severall Languages.

The soil not very natural for Corn or Fruits: though Pot herbs brought from Spain thrive well, as do Beans and Lentils; yet Vines and other richer fruits seldom come to good. Wood-vines they have, which yield a very pleasant pulp; and if well ordered, might be brought to afford more profit. Their trees, most of them, greater then in other places, as Pines, Oaks, Cedars, and the Cypress, whole Woods of Walnuts, but the Nut not so big as those of Europe. Some of their Trees yield Rosin, some such preci∣ous gums, as in other places are not usual; and some there are whose Leaves being dried into a powder, afford a soveraign plaster for exulcerate sores: And they have need too often to make use of these Plasters, the Country being full of Snakes and other venemous Creatures (some of the Snakes no less then 20 foot in length) whose poison being strong and deadly, doth require such helps. Of the People nothing singular, that I have met with; but that they are more musical and exact in painting then the rest of the Natives.

Towns of most note in it, 1 Cividad Real, built by the Spaniards in the Country of the Chiapenses, at the foot of an hill, situate in a round Plain, encompassed about with Mountains like an Amphitheatre: afterwards made a Bishops See, and privileged by the Kings of Spain to be governed by such City-Magistrates as they call Alcaides. 2 Chiapa, in a vale adjoyning; before the building of the other, of most note in this Province: yet still before it in regard of its situation, this Valley being better fraught with Pears, Apples, Wheat and Maize, then all the rest of the Country. 3 Tecpatlan, once the chief of the Zoaques, possessed of 25 Villages in this Province; now beautified with a Monastery of Dominican ••riers. 4 Capanavatzla, the principal Town of twenty five which the Quelenes held in this tract: remarkable for nothing but a Convent of the same Dominicans. 5 S. Bartholmews, another town in the territory of the same Quelenes: neer which is said to be a great Pit, or opening of the earth, into which if any man casts a stone, though never so little, there presently followeth a loud and fearfull noise like a clap of thunder. 6 Guevetlan, built by Pedro de Alvaridi, when he was Governour of these parts; the chief Town of a little Province called Soconusco. 7. Casapualca, a small Burrough, but memorable for a Well in the fields adjoyning; the waters whereof are noted to rise and fall, as the Ocean doth flow or ebbe, and at equal distances of time. Of thirteen Townships which the Zeltales were possessed of, I find no one named; though painted all of them, and set forth to the eye of the Traveller, with Coccinele, of which their Territory hath good plenty.

And now I am fallen upon these Rarities of Nature, I cannot but take notice (though somewhat out of my Method) of a River by the Spaniards called Rio Blanco, which turns wood to stones: of a Spring in the Cantred of Tafixa, which in the Summer is full of water, in the Winter dry; of another in the same Cantred, which for one three years, though it rain never so little, is full of water, and the next three years hath none at all; and so successively by turns: and finally, that the chief River of the Province, having received into it many lesser streams, is swallowed up neer a Village of the Chiapenses, called Otztutan, never after seen. None of them samed for Golden Sands, as are those of Guaxata; though it be thought there be some Veins of gold and silver, but hitherto neglected for want of Slaves to work the Mines.

2 VERAPAZ is bounded on the West with Chiapa, on the East with Guatimala and Hondura, on the North with Jucutan, and on the South with the Territory of Soconusco. In Latine called Provincia Verae Pacis; by the Spaniards Verapaz, because not conquered by the sword, but won to the obedience of the King of Spain by the preaching of the Dominican ••riers.

The Country 30 Leagues in length, and as much in breadth, full of high Hills and deep Valleys, but no fruitful•• plains; generally overgrown with Woods, very large and thick, which so hinder the free passage of the winds, that the Aire hereof is very shewery: Insomuch that for nine moneths in the year they have always rain, not altogether free from it in the other three. By reason of this moysture much annoyed with Mosquits a kinde of Gnats, very injurious to their Fruits, with which otherwise (as with 〈◊〉〈◊〉 other necessaries) they were well provided. No Mines of Gold or Silver discovered hither∣to, 〈◊〉〈◊〉 the Spaniards have many times in vain attempted it. Instead whereof some of their Trees drop a kinde of Amber, which they call Liquid amber; some Mastick, and some other Gums; they have also many Medicinal woods, as Sarzaparilla, that called China-wood, and many others.

The People tractable and conform to the Spanish Government, except the Lecandones, and Pachu∣•••••• some Remainders of the ancient Salvages, who keeping in the Mountains and craggie Rocks of this Country, have hitherto retained both their Native Freedom, and their old Idolatries. No Towns here••n possessed by the Spaniard, and but fourteen Villages in all, in which they live mingled with the old Inhabitants. The principall of these S. Augustin••s, not so much memorable in it self, as for the neighbourhood of a Cave betwixt two Mountains, from which the Rain descending turns into Ala∣baster, naturally fashioned into Pillars and other Pourtraitures. Into which al••o many Springs do con∣vey their waters, which there being joyned into a body, make an handsom River, able almost at the first appearance to bear a Boat. A Port they also have at the bottom of an Arm of the Sea called G••l••o Dulce •• but of so little use and Trading that I finde no 〈◊〉〈◊〉 for it, unless it should be that Yztapa which Herrera speaks of, by whom placed in Guatimala.

3 GVATIMALA specially so called, is bounded on the West with Verapaz, from which parted by the River ••••alapa; on the East with Nicaragua; on the North with Honduras, and on the South with Mare del Zur or the Pacificque Ocean. Extended 30 Leagues from the North to the South, and on the Sho••es of Mare del Zur, not above seventeen. But reckoning in 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Chalu••eca, and S.Sa∣viours, three adjoyning Regions, by some made Provinces distinct, the dimensions of it must be much greater both for length and breadth.

The Country Mountainous, but withall very full of Rivers; by consequence commodious both for 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and hunting▪ Fruitfull of Wheat, Maize, and other Provisions, but those fruits not lasting. Not so much subject unto rain as they are in Verapaz, but more troubled with winds. Full of rich Pastures, and those Pastures of great Heards of Cattell. Good store of Cotton-wool, some Balsamum, and other Medicinal 〈◊〉〈◊〉; as also of the best Sulphur, and many Apothecaries Drugs which I have no skill of. The People Pusillanimous and fearfull▪ greater proficients in Christianity and Civility then most of the Savages. but so that it is thought they would relapse again to their ancient Paganism, and revive again the•••• old barbarous 〈◊〉〈◊〉. if not held in by the bridle of fear, and the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 of power. The 〈◊〉〈◊〉 〈◊〉〈◊〉 to be good 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and the Women good Spinners.

Chief Rivers hereof, 〈◊〉〈◊〉, a River of a course but of 13 Leagues, yet of great depth, and navigable half the way, which falleth into Mare del Zur. 2 Lempas▪ watering the Burrough of S. Sa∣•••••• which hath 〈◊〉〈◊〉 from a great Lake, and his fall in the same Sea also. Here is also said to be a Lake ••eet the Village of Ystepeque, of the waters whereof are made both Sulphur and Allom. And here is said to be a Volcana or burning Mountain, which though it hath vomited no ••ire of late, the mat∣ter of it being spent; yet the said Monuments of his Furies do remain among them; another not far off which still casts out smoak.

Towns of most note, 1 Guatimala, or S. Jago de Guatimale, the chief Town of the Province, si∣tuate on a little River betwixt both 〈◊〉〈◊〉, by one of which most terribly wasted. An 1541. But be∣ing 〈◊〉〈◊〉, it hath since exceedingly flourished▪ by reason of the Bishops See, the residence of the Governour, and the Courts of Justice. 2 S Salvador, 40 Leagues Eastwards from Guatimala, by the Natives called 〈◊〉〈◊〉: situate on the River Guacapa, seven Leagues from the Sea and neighboured by a great Lake of five Leagues compass. 3 Acaxutla, at the mouth of the same River, the Port Town to 〈◊〉〈◊〉. 4•••• Trinidad, by the Natives called Samsonate, the most noted Empory of this Coun∣try; the 〈◊〉〈◊〉at Bartery betwixt the Inhabitants of New Spain, and those of Peru. 5 S. Michaels, two Leagues from the Bay of Fonseca, which serves unto it for an Haven. 6 Xe••es de la Fontera, the chief Town of the Cantrea of Chulut••can, by which name it was formerly known situate on the Frontires to∣wards Nicaragua, and to the South east of the Bay of Fonseca; that Bay so named in honour of Ro∣derick Fonseca Bishop of Burges, and President of the Councel for the Indies, An. 1532. by Giles 〈◊〉〈◊〉 〈◊〉〈◊〉▪ who first discovered it; About and in this Bay are ten little Ilands, four of which in∣habited, and plentifully furnished with wood, water, and salt.

4. HONDVRA hath on the South Guatimala, specially so called; on the VVest, the Bay or Arm of 〈…〉〈…〉 Dulce▪ by which parted from Verapaz: on the North and East the Sea called Mare del Nort; on the South east Nicaragua; on the South Guatimala specially ••o called. In length 〈…〉〈…〉 of that Sea 150 Leagues, and about 80 Leagues in breadth from North to 〈…〉〈…〉 of Honduras, or Fonduras imposed upon it from the depth of the Sea about the 〈◊〉〈◊〉 Head land of it, called the Cape of Honduras.

The whole Country either Hills, or Vallies, little Champagne in it: fruitfull of Maize and wheat, and of very 〈…〉〈…〉 age; made so by the constant overflowings of their Rivers about Michaelmass; which do not only soil their grounds, but water their Gardens. The principal of them, 1 Haguara,

2 Chamalucon, 3 Vlna, all neighboured by fertile fields, and pleasant meadows. Some Mines of Gold and Silver are conceived to be here, but not yet discovered; the people being so slothful and given to idleness, that they had rather live on Roots, then take pains in tilling of their land; and therefore not easily intreated to toyl for others, but where necessity and strong hand do compell them to it.

Towns of most note, 1 Valladolit, by the Natives called Commyagna. 40 leagues distant from the Sea, situate in a pleasant and fruitful Valley, on the banks of the River Chamalucon; and honoured with a Bishops See, fixed here about the year 1558. built neer the place where once Francisco de Mont••io Governour of this Provin••e had planted a Colonie of Spaniards, An. 1530. by the name of S. Maria de Commyagna. 2 Gracias di Dios, 30 leagues Westward of Valladolit, bu••••t by Gabriel de Royas, An. 1530. to be a place of defence for those who worked in the Mines, against the Savages. But finding himself unable to make it good, he defaced and left it: Reedified again by Gonsalvo de Alvarado and since well inhabited. 3 S. Peters, eleven ••eagues distant from the Port of ••avallos, but seated in a most healthy air, and therefore made the dwelling place of the Farmers of the Kings Customs who have their houses in this town, and follow their business in the other, as occasion is •• Porto de Cavallos, so called from some horses thrown overboard in a violent tempest: the most noted Heaven of these parts, and strong by natural situation; but so ill guarded and defended, that in the year 1591. it was pillaged by Captain Christopher Newport; and An 1596. by Sir Anthony Sherley. Deserted on those spoils and not since inhabited. 5 S. Thomas de Castile, 18 leagues from Cavallos, naturally strong, and forrified accord∣ing to the Rules of Art: to which as to a place of more strength and safety, Alfonso Briado de Castilla President of the Sessions of Guatimala, removed both the Inhabitants and Trade o•• Cavalios. 6 Tra∣xillo, seated on the rising of a little hill betwixt two Rivers (one of them that which is called Haguara) distant from Cavallos 40 leagues to the East, and 60 leagues to the North of Valadolit: surprized and pillaged by the English, An. 1576. Not far hence towards the North-east lieth the Cape of Honduras, from whence the shore drawing inwards till it joyn with Jucutan, makes up a large and goodly Bay called the Golf of Honduras. 7 S. George de Olancho, so named of the Vallie Olancho, in which it is seated; a Vallie noted heretofore for some golden Sands, which Guaejape, a River of it, was then said to yield.

5 NICARAGVA is bounded on the North with Honduras, on the East with Mare del Nort and the Province of Veragua, on the South with Mare del Zur, on the West with Guatimala. By Di∣daco Lopez de Salsedo who first subdued it, it was called the New kingdom of Leon; but the old name by which they found it called at their coming thither, would not so be lost.

The Country destitute of Rivers, except that part hereof towards Veregua, called Costa Rica, reckon∣ed a Province of it self. The want hereof supplied by a great Lake or a little Sea, called the Lake of Nicaragua, 120 leagues in compass, ••bbing and flowing like the Sea: upon the banks of which stand many pleasant villages and single houses. A Lake well stored with Fish, but as full of Crocediles: and having made its way by a mighty Cataract, emptieth it self into the Sea about four leagues off. Not very rich in Corn, (most of which is brought them from Peru) but well stored with Cattel; level and plain, and shadowed with frequent trees; one amongst others of that nature, that a man cannot touch any part of it, but it withereth presently. Affirmed to be as full of Parrets, as England of Crows; stored with great plenty of Cotton wooll, and abundance of Sugar canes. In a word so pleasing generally to the eye, that the Spaniards call it by the name of Mahomets Paradise.

The People for the most part speak the Spanish tongue, and willingly conform themselves to the Spanish garb both of behaviour and apparel: well weaned from their old barbarous customes, re∣tained only by some Mountainers, whom they call Chontales. All of good stature, and of colour in∣different white. They had before they received Christianity, a setled and politick form of government: only as Solon appointed ••o law for a mans killing of his father, so had this people none for the killer of a King; both of them conceiting that men were not so unnatural as to commit such crimes. A Thief they judged not to death, but adjudged him to be slave to that man whom he had robbed, till by his service he had made satisfaction: A course more merciful, and not less just, then the loss of life.

Chief towns hereof, 1 Leon, or Leon de Nicaragua, situate on the Lake aforesaid; the Residence of the Governour, and the Bishops See; built in a sandy soil, and begirt with woods. 2 Granada, on the same Lake, sixteen leagues from Leon, beautified with a fair Church and a strong Castle, both founded by Ferdinando de Cordova: the City seated in a liberal and wealthy soyl, well furnished with Sugar-canes; for the refining of which here are many Work houses, which they call Ingenios. 3 Segovia, distant from the former about 30 leagues; rich in veins of Silver. 4 Jaen, (all called according to the names of some Towns in Spain) situate at the end of the Lake aforesaid, from whence by a long and narrow channel it d••••••mbogu••th into the Sea neer the Port of S. John. 5 Realeio, about a league distant from the Port of Possession, in the Latitude of 12 degrees & 40 minutes, inhabited for the most part by Shipwrights and Mariners. 6 Nicoia, giving name to a little territory, within the bounds whereof standeth 7 A∣varines also. 8 Cartago, 40 leagues from Nicoia, equally distant from both Seas, on each of which it hath a convenient Port: this Town the principal of that part which is called Costa Rica.

6 VERAGVA hath on the West Costa Rica, on the East bounded with the District of Panama; washed on both other sides by the sea: extended 50 leagues in length from West to East; not above 25 where narrowest, from one sea to the other. The name given to it from the River Veragua, of greatest note in it at the first Discovery.

The ••oil hereof Mountainous and exceeding barren, not fit for tillage, and less usefull in feeding Cat∣tel; sufficiently provided of Maize and Pot-herbs, but else of little necessary for the life of man, un∣less the People could eat Silver, or drink Aurum Potabile. Of both which Mettals, but especially of Gold, here are such never-perishing Mines, that the Spaniards think them able to supply all wants, and cure all Diseases. Once being asked what made them so greedy of that Mettall: it was answered, That they were much troubled with grief of heart, for which Gold was a most Soveraign Medicine. And as the Country, such the People, hardy, couragious, and warlike, and such as bear the Spanish yoke with great impatience: the stoutest and most untameable People, being bred most commonly in Mountain∣ous and woody Countries.

Chief Rivers of this little Province, 1 Veragua, which gives name unto it. 2 Belen, by the old In∣habitants called Yebra, at the mouth of which Columbus purposed to have setled a Spanish Colony, for the better transporting of his Gold. But finding that the Channel, on the ceasing of some rain which had fallen before, was become so shallow, that no ship could go in or out, he gave over that purpose. 3 La Trinidad. 4 La Conception: all falling into Mare del Nort. Their chief Towns, 1 Conception, on the Mouth of that River, the seat of the Governour. 2 La Trinidad, on the banks of that River, neer the Port of Belen, and six Leagues Eastwards of La Conception. 3 S. Foy (oppidum S. Fidis) twelve Leagues from Conception on the South, where the Spaniards melt, and cast their Gold into Bars and In∣gots. 4 Carlos, not far from the shores of Mare del Zur. 5 Philippina, on the West of Carlos. Each seated on a large and capacious Bay. Before which Bays lie a Frie of Islands, which the Spaniards call Zebaco, from the chief amongst them. Thirty in all; the principall Zebaco, Cabaio, S. Marie, S. Martha, inhabited in former times, now not much frequented; the People being dragged into the Continent to work in the Mines.

This Countrey oweth its first Discovery unto divers men, according to the several Members and di∣visions of it: The last in order, being the first that was discovered, but the last that was conquered, had the honour to be visited by Columbus himself. VVho driving up and down these coasts in the year 1502 hit on the entrances of the River, which afterwards he caused to be called Belen; where hearing that there was plenty of Gold in the Mines of Hurira not far off, he intended to fortifie. But the River falling him as was said before; and finding nothing fit to sustain his men, he bent himself though un∣willing to a further search. He had before touched upon Honduras also; but I finde not that he landed on it: the setling of these Countries being destinated to another hand. Twenty yeers after this the most fortunate Cortez having fully quieted and composed the affairs of Mexico, resolved to make his Master Lord of the rest of America. And to that end sent out his Officers and Commanders into seve∣rall parts; by Pedro de Alvarado. he subdued Guatimala▪ Hondura, by Christopher de Olid: Veragua, and Nicaragua, by Consalvo de Corduba. But fearing lest the conquered Provinces might revolt again, he resolved to visit them in person. Attended by a choise Band of 150 horse, and as many foot, and 3000 Mexicans, he began his journey in October, 1524: and held on his progress as far as to Truxillo: where finding that Gonsales de Cordova had so plaid his game, as there was no neccssity of going fur∣ther, he made a stand, having marched above 400 Leagues with his little Army. Returning back ano∣ther way, in April 1526. he came home to Mexico, with whose return we conclude also our survey of the Northern Peninsula, containing all America Septentrionalis, or Mexicana.

And so much for Mexicana.