Cosmographie in four bookes : containing the chorographie and historie of the whole vvorld, and all the principall kingdomes, provinces, seas and isles thereof / by Peter Heylyn.

OF CHILE.

HILE is bounded on the North with the Desart of Alacama 90 Leagues in length, in∣terposed betwixt it and Peru: on the West with Mare del Zur: on the South with the Streits of Magellan; and on the East as far as to Rio de la Plata, with the main At∣lantick; the Countries lying on the East betwixt it and Paragnay, not yet well disco∣vered.

This Country lyeth wholly beyond the Tropick of Capricorn, by consequence in the temperate Zone: extended in length from the borders of Peru, to the mouth of the Streits, 500 Leagues, but the breadth variable and uncertain. Called Chile from the word Chil (which in more tongues then ours doth signifie as much as cold) from the extream coldness of the Aire and Clime; so vehe∣ment here in our Summer Solstice, that many times both the Horses and the Riders are frozen to death, and hardned like a piece of Marble.

The soil hereof in the midland parts Mountainous and unfruitfull; towards the Sea-side, levell, fer∣tile, and watered with divers Rivers flowing from the Mountains: productive of Maize, Wheat, and most excellent pasturage; plenty of Gold and Silver, abundance of Honey, store of Cattel, and Wine enough for the use of the people; the Vines brought hither out of Spain prospering here exceedingly; as do also all the Fruits and Plants which are sent from hence into this Country. The people very tall and warlike, some of them of a Gigantine stature, affirmed (but I believe it not) to be eleven foot high; yet well conditioned with this greatness, where not much provoked. Their garments of the skins of Beasts, their Arms Bow and Arrows: white of complexion, but as hirsute and shaggie-haired, as the rest of the Salvages.

Rivers of note there are not any but what will fall within the view of its several Provinces: Divided commonly into 1 Chile, specially so called, and 2 Magellanica.

1. CHILE specially so called, is bounded on the North with the Desart of Alacama; on the South with Magellanica; on the West with Mare del Zur; and on the East with some unknown Countries, lying betwixt it and Paragnay, or the Province of Rio de la Plata, not above 20 Leagues in breadth, but in length 300. The reason of the name, together with the nature of the soyl and people, we have seen before.

Principal Rivers of this part, 1 Rio de Copayapo▪ giving name unto a Promontorie near the influx of it, in the Northern borders of this Province. 2 Rio de Coquimbo, 3 La Ligua, 4 Topocalma, 5 Cacapool, 6 Canten; all falling into Mare del Zur; and besides these, a nameless, but more famous River, which in the day time runneth with a violent current, and in the night hath no water at all. The reason of it is, because this River having no constant Fountain, is both begun and continued by the Snow falling from the Mountains; which in the heat of the day melted into water, is precipitately carryed into the Sea; but congealed in the coldness of the night, yields no water at all, whereby the Channel becometh empty.

Places of most observation in it, 1 Gopiapo, giving name to a fertile Valley, in the most Northern tract hereof; and neighboured by a small but commodious Haven. 2 Serena, a Colonie of the Spa∣niards, on the Sea-side, not far from the influx of Rio de Coquimbo, on whose banks it is seated; where built by Baldivia the Conquerour and first Governour of this Province, An. 1544. The territory round about it rich in Mines of Gold: the Town it self of 200 houses, but so well peopled, that at the landing of some of the English under Captain Drake, they presently sent out 300 Horse and 200 Foot to com∣pell them back unto their ships, which they did accordingly. 3 S. Jago, the chief of all this Province, (though not above 80 houses in it) because the Residence of the Governour, and the Courts of Justice; adorned with a Cathedral Church, and some Convents of Dominican and Franciscan Priers; situate in the 34 Degree of Southern Latitude, on the banks of the River Topacalma; at the mouth whereof is the Haven of Val paraiso, the best and most noted of this Country; out of which the English under Drake took a Spanish ship, and therein 25000 Pezos of the purest Gold, besides other Commodities. 4 Conception, 70 Leagues on the South of S. Jago, situate on the shores of a large and capacious Bay (by the Natives called Penco) by which and the mountains on all sides so strongly fenced, that the Gover∣nour when distressed by the Savages (as sometimes they are) retireth hither for his safety. Well forti∣fied in such places as are accessible, and garrisoned with 500 souldiers, besides the Townsmen. Opposite hereunto lyeth the Isle of S. Marie, so near the shore, that it seems to have been rent from it by the force of the Sea; fruitful, and very well provided of Swine and Poultrie, but the people so in fear of the Spa∣niards dwelling in Conception, that they dare not kill or eat either, but by leave from them. 5 Auracona (so I think they call it) a strong Fortress in the Country of the Auracans, the most potent Nation of these parts, who weary of the Spanish yoke, revolted against Baldivia, overcame him in a set fight, and at last killed him: this piece being thereupon forsaken, & of no more use. 6 De los Confines, built by Baldivia in the borders of the Country of those Auracans, to serve for a defence to the Mines of Ongol near ad∣joyning:

distant from the Sea shores about 18 Leagues, enlarged by Garsias de Mendoza, and by him called Villa Neuva de los infantes. 7 Imperiale, in the 38 Degree and 40 Minutes of Southern Latitude, situate on the banks of the River Cauten, an Episcopal See, and the best Fortress of the Spaniards in all this Province. Fortified and made a Colonie of Spaniards in the year 1551 and by Baldivia called Al Impertale, because they found an Eagle with two heads made in wood, on the doors of their houses; a monument perhaps of some Germans, who had here been shipwrackt. A Town of so great wealth and power before known to the Spaniards, that in a war betwixt them and the Araucans, spoken of before, they are said to have brought upto the field 300000 men. 8 Villa Rica, another Colonie of Spaniards, 16 Leagues on the South-east of Imperiale, and 25 Leagues from the shores of Mare del Zur. 9 Baldivia, the most noted Town of all these parts, situate in the Valley of Guadallanguen, in the Latitude of 40 Degrees or thereabouts: adorned with a safe and capacious Haven, and neighboured by Mines of Gold of such infinite riches, that Baldivia (by whom built for defence of those Mines) received thence daily by the labour of each single workman, 25000 Crowns a man, and sometimes more. Sacked by the Savages An. 1599. since repaired by the Spaniards. 10 Osorno, on the Banks of the Bay of Chilve, (or Ancud, as the Savages call it) situate in a barren soyl, but well stored with Gold, and thought to be more populous then Valdivia it self. 11 Castro, the most Southern Town of all this Province, in the La∣titude of 44. built in a large and fruitful Iland of the Bay of Ancud, said to be 50 Leagues in length, but the breadth unequal; in some parts nine, in others not above two Leagues. 12 S. Juan de la Frontera, on the further side of the Andes, towards Paraguay, or Rio de la Plata.

To this Province there belong also certain Ilands lying on the coasts and shores hereof. 1 S. Marie's, spoken of before. 2 Mocha, upon the South of that, five Leagues from the Continent, fruitful of grain, and very good pasturage; sufficient to maintain the Inhabitants of it, who being the descendants of those Americans who fled hither to avoid the tyranny of the Spaniards, hitherto have made good their liberty against that Nation: of which so jealous, that they would not suffer the English under Drake and Cavendish to land amongst them, for fear they had been Spaniards, or some friends of theirs 3 Castro, which we have spoken of already.

2. MAGELLANICA is bounded on the North with Chile, and the Province of Rio de la Plata; on the South with Fretum Magellanicum, or the Streits of Magelian; on the West with Mare del Zur; on the East with Mare del Noort, or the main Atlantick. So called from Magellanus, by whom first discovered; of whom we shall speak more hereafter.

It is in length from the borders of Chile to the mouth of the Streits, 300 Leagues: in breadth from one Sea to the other, where broadest, above 400 Leagues; in some but 90 only, and in others less, ac∣cording as it draweth towards the point of the Pyramis. The inland parts of the Country not yet dis∣covered: those on the Sea side observed to be rockie and unfruitful, exposed for the most part of the year to such bitter colds, that the Snow lyeth alwaies on the Mountains. The people said to be tall of stature, and some of them of a Gigantine bigness, reported to be ten or eleven foot high; and by the Spaniards for that reason are called Patagons. Both great and less, sufficiently rude and barbarous, quite naked, and unfurnished of any houses, notwithstanding the rigour of the cold.

No Houses doth imply no Towns, and therefore we must look for none, in so rude a Country, as hath not hitherto conversed with more civil Nations. So that the most that we can do, is to coast the shores, and see what names of Ports or Promontories we can find therein. And first upon the Sea coasts towards Mare del Zur, they place (beginning at the North, and so descending) 1 The Promontorie called Cabo de las Islas. 2 The Port or Haven of S. Stephen. 3 The Valley of Nuestra Sennora, or our Ladies Valley. 4 The Promontorie called Punta Delgado. 5 Porto de los Reyes. 6 Ancon Sinsalida, on the banks of a semi-circular Bay, the receptacle of many Rivers, and not a few Ilands. 7 Cabo de la Victoria, or the Cape of Victorie, situate betwixt that Bay and the mouth of the Streits, so called from the name of the Ship in which some of Magellanes souldiers did first compass the world. For Ferdinand Magellano a no∣ble Portugal, and well skilled in Navigation, at the perswasion or command of Charles the fifth, to whom (upon some discontents received in the Court of Emanuel King of Portugal) he had made offer of his service, undertook the finding out (if possible) a shorter cut to the Moluccos, then discovered formerly. In the year 1520 he began his voyage, and keeping on the coast to the South of Rio de la Plata, about the end of October, fel upon the Cape of Virgins, at the very entrance of this Streit, which on the doubling of this Cape he was fallen upon; and by the end of November (not before) was fully clear of these narrow Seas, since called Fretum Magellanicum, and entred into Mare del Zur. Afterwards passing the Moluccos, he was killed in a fight against the Ilanders of S. Matthew, a little Iland not far off, but more near the Pilippins; which notwithstanding the ship called Victoria, returned to Spain in safety, and brought the welcome news of their good success.

We use to say that Sir Francis Drake was the first that sayled round about the world, which may be true in a mitigated senses viz. that he was the first Captain, or man of note that atchieved this enter∣prise, Magellanus perishing in the midst of it; and therefore is reported to have given for his device, a Globe, with this motto, Tu primus circumdedisti me. This navigation was begun, An. 1577, and in two years and an half with great vicissitude of fortune, finished; concerning which his famous voyage, a Poet then living, directed to him this Epigram.

Drake pererrati novit quem terminus orbis, Quem{que}, simul mundi vidit uter{que} polus: Sitaceant homines, facient te sydera notum; Sol nescit comitis non memor esse sui.

Drake, whom th'encompass'd earth so fully knew, And whom at once both poles of heaven did view: Should men forget thee, Sol could not forbear To chronicle his fellow travailer.

This Fretum Magellanicum, these Magellan straits, are in the 52 degree; and are by M. John Davis, who professeth to know every Creek in them, thus described. “For 14 Leagues within the Cape of S. Marie, lyeth the first strait, where it ebbeth and floweth with a violent swiftness: the strait not be∣ing fully half a mile broad, and the first fall into it very dangerous and doubtful. Three leagues this strait continueth, when it openeth into a sea, eight miles long, and as much broad; beyond which, ly∣eth the second strait, right West, South-west from the first; a perilous and unpleasing passage, three leagues long, and a mile in breadth. This strait openeth it self into another sea, which is extended even to the Cape of victory; where is the strait properly called the strait of Magellane; a place of that na∣ture, that which way soever a man bend his course, he shall be sure to have the wind against him. The length hereof is 40 leagues; the breadth in some places two leagues over, in others not fully half a mile. The Channel in depth 200 Fathoms, so no hope of Anchorage; the course of the water full of turnings and changings; withal so violent, that when a ship is once entred, there is no returning. On both sides of it are high Mountains continually covered with snow; from which proceed those counter∣winds, which beat with equal fury on all parts thereof. A place assuredly not pleasing to view, and ve∣ry hazardous to pass. So far, and to this purpose M. Davis.

But to proceed, the way thus opened, was travelled not long after, An. 1525. by Garsias de Loyasa; next in the year 1534, by Simon de Alcazavo, and four years after by three ships of the Bishop of Pla∣cenza in Spain; but none of them had the hap or courage to adventure thorow; till undertaken and per∣formed by Sir Francis Drake, An. 1577▪ after which it grew more familiar amongst the seamen; How∣soever, we are so much debtors to the attempts of others, as that we owe to them the most part of the names of those Bayes and Promontories, which they discovered in the search: though many of them since new named by the English and Hollanders. Those of most note, proceeding from Cabo de la Victo∣ria, 1 Cabo de Quade. 2 Cape Gallant 3 Cordes Bay. 4 Cape Froward, being the very point or Conus of this great Pyramis. 5 Porto Famine. 6 •• little Isle called Elizabeths I••and; and at the exit of the strait into Mare del Noort, the Cape of Virgins. Then bending Northward toward the great River of Plata, we find upon the main Ocean 1 Rio de la Crux, neighboured by a Promontorie called Cabo de las Bareras; where Magellano staid all September, and the greatest part of October, in expectation of an opportunity to discover further. 2 The Bay of S. Julian, out of which he set sayl for this adventure, about the later end of August, leaving there two of his companions condemned of mutinie. 3 The Port of Desire. 4 A large Promontorie called the Cape of S. George. 5 The outlets of a fair River, named Rio de los Camerones. 6 A goodly Haven entituled Puerto de los Leones. 7 The Cape called Punta de ter∣ra plana. 8 The Bay of Amegada. 9 The Promontorie called the Cape of S. Andrews. And 10 the Ri∣ver of S. Anne, beyond which lyeth the Province of the River. This is the most that I can say touching Magellanica, as to the Havens, Rivers, Points and Promontories; and this is nothing (as we see) but a Nomenclator. It must be better peopled and more discovered, before it can afford discourse of more variety. All we can adde, is that the passage back again from Mare del Zur to the Atlantick, hath not been found so safe and easie, as from the main Atlantick unto Mare del Zur. Attempted first by Ladril∣liro a Spaniard, at the command of Garcia de Mendoza, Governour of Chile; and attempted only: performed not long after the voyage of Sir Francis Drake, by D. Pedro Sarmiento, imployed therein by Francis de Toledo, Viceroy of Peru, with much difficulty, and no less danger; so much, that few have since endeavoured to return that way.

As for the fortunes & affairs of the Province of Chile, to which we have made this an Appendix, we are to understand that it was first discovered by Almagro de Alvarado, one of Pizarro's chief friends and as∣sociates. But he having other designs in his head about Peru, which he intended for himself, and to out Pi∣zarro, did discover it only: the conquest of it being reserved for Baldivia, whom Pizarro on the setling of his affairs by the death of Almagro, had imployed in that action. He going souldierlike to work, not on∣ly did subdue the people; but as he gained ground, built some Fortress, or planted Colonies of Spani∣ards in convenient places. This done about the year 1544. his ill luck was to meet with a more stubborn and untractable people, then either Cortez or Pizarro had done before him; who quickly weary of the yoke, besieged one of his Forts, encountred Baldivia himself coming with too small a power to relieve his people, vanquished and slew him in the field. Some adde that they poured Gold into his throat (as the Parthians are reported to have done to Crassus) bidding him satiate himself with that which he so much thirsted. After this blow given in the year 1551▪ the Savages recovered the rich vallies of Au∣ranco, Tucapel, and Purene; which they keep from them till this day: The Towns of Los Confines, and Villa Rica, both on the borders of those Vallies, then deserted also. Nor staid they there, though they took time to breathe a little. For in the year 1599 (having provided themselves of 200 Corslets, and

seventy Muskets) they brake out again; surprised and sacked the Town of Baldivia; forced Imperiale, after a whole years siege to surrender without any conditions; and in the year 1604. took Osorno by famine. Of thirteen Cities which the Spaniards had possessed amongst them; they had taken nine; some of them since recovered, but the most demolished. As ill it thrived with them in Magellanica, where Pedro de Starmiento undertook the planting of two Colonies to command those Streits, An. 1584. The one he setled near the mouth of the Streit, which he called by the name of Nombre de Jesus, and left therein 150 of his men; the other he intended on the narrowest place of the Streit, to be called Cividad del Roy Philip, which he resolved to fortifie, and plant with Ordnance. But winter coming on, he left there others of his men, promising to relieve them shortly with all things necessary. But such was his un∣happy face, that after many shipwracks and disappointments which befell unto him in the pursuit of his design; he was at last taken by the English, under the command of Sir Walter Rawleigh, who was there in person: and his two Colonies for want of timely succours, either starved at home, or eaten by the Savages as they ranged the Country.