Cosmographie in four bookes : containing the chorographie and historie of the whole vvorld, and all the principall kingdomes, provinces, seas and isles thereof / by Peter Heylyn.

1 LIVONIA.

1 LIVONIA or LIEFLAND is bounded on the East with the Empire of Russia, on the West with the Baltick Sea; on the North with the Gulf or Bay of Finland, on the South with Samogitia, and Lituania. Extended in length along the shore of the Baltick for the space of 125 Dutch or 500 Italian miles, & 40

Dutch or 160 Italian miles in breadth:* 1.1 and called thus perhaps from the Lenovi, a people of Germany, inhabiting not far from the River Vistula.

The countrey for the most part plaine, without any mountaines, furnished with corn and fruits in so great aboundance, that they send part thereof into other countries: and yet there is much ground untilled in it, by reason of the bogs and marishes which are very frequent. Here is also store of wax, honey, and pitch, but they have neither oyl nor wine; the want of which last is supplyed by Meth. Of tame beasts fit for mans service they are well provided; as also of such whose skins are of more value with the Merchant, then their flesh at the market; as Ermins, Sables, Castors, others of that kinde; besides good store of game for hunting, the countrey having in it many large woods, parts of the Hercynian. And as for Rivers there are few countries which have more, watered by the Winde, the Beck, the Dwine, the Ruho; all of them falling into the Baltick; many great Lakes, whereof the chiefe is that of Beybas, 45 miles long, and full of fish.

The people are much given to gluttonie and drunkennesse, especially in rich mens houses where it is to be had: for the paisant lives in want enough, meere slaves to their tyrannicall Landlords, who spend in riot and excesse, what these get by drudgerie. And when at any time the poore wretch leaves his Landlord to mend his condition with some other, the Lord if he can overtake him will cut off his foot, to make sure of him for the future. They are a mixture of many Nations, as the Fstones, which are the naturall Inhabitants, (derived from the Estii, a Dutch people, spoken of by Ptolemie) of which Nation are almost all the Paisants; the Moscovites, Swedes, Danes, Dutch, and Polanders, inter∣mingled with them, comming in upon severall conquest, and planting themselves in the best parts of it, in which they still Lord it over the Native, but the Dutch especially for long time Masters of the whole.

The Christian Faith was first here planted by Meinardus of Lubeck imployed herein (in the time of Frederick the first) at the perswasion of some Dutch Merchants who traded hither, by the Archbishop of Breme, by whom made the first Bishop of the Livonians. The Church hereof at this time governed by the Archbishop of Riga, the Bishops of Derpt, As••lia, Oesel, Curland, and Rivallia, in those parts which remaine subject to the Polander, where the Religion of the Church of Rome is onely counte∣nanced. Such parts of it that are under the Swedes or Danes are for the most part of the Lutheran pro∣fession; planted with colonies of that people. But the Estones, or originall Inhabitants, as they have a language: so they have a Religion by themselves also; mixt of the Christian and the Pagan: ex∣tremely well affected unto their Priests, to whom they present salt, candles, and fruites, when they come to them for their blessings; great lovers of Confession, esteemers of holy water, and diligent fre∣quenters of their Churches: but so extremely ignorant in all points of Religion, that there is hardly one in a village that can say his Pater-noster. When they bury any of their dead, every one drinketh an health to him, and powreth his part upon him when his turne comes to drink, putting into the grave with him an hatch••t, wine, meat, and a little money for his voyage. And in some places they are wholly idolatrous (if not converted very lately by the care of the Jesuites) some of them wor∣shipping the Sun, other stocks and stones, and some Serpents also. The language of the Countrey is for the most part the High Dutch (being the language of those Nations who first lorded over them) the Estones having generally a peculiar language, which none of the others un∣derstand.

It was divided formerly into the Provinces of Curland, Eastland, Semigall, Virland, Harland, and Let∣tenland; but these six, since the conquest of it by the ••••landers, are reduced to three: Harland, and Vir∣land, being united unto Estland, and Semigallia unto Curland.

Chief places in Estland are 1 Rivalle, a Bishops See, and well traded Port, situate on the Gulf of Fin∣l••nd; a town belonging to the Swede, the keeping whereof and of Viburg, on the borders of Moscovie stand him yearly in 100000 Dollars. 2 Habsay, or Habses, (Asilia in Latine) a Bishops See, and 3 Pernow, a well fortified place, belonging to the Swethlander also, ever since the conquest of these parts of the countrey by John the second. Places of great importance to the Crowne of Sweden; as all other pieces of this nature are, which standing in an Enemies Countrey not onely do defend our own, but offend our adversaries. For they are not onely dores to open a further passage into their territories, whensoever we shall see occasion; but whilest the Enemie is besieging thereof, or otherwise busyed in recovering them into his power, our owne state is preserved in quiet, and time may yeeld fit op∣portunity to relieve them, if they be distressed, without wasting any part of our proper countreys Of which nature was Calais when it was in the hands of the English; the Garrisons which the Spaniards and Portugu••ze have in Afric and India: the charge of keeping them being sufficiently defrayed (if the charge prove greater then the income, as sometimes it doth) by the advantages they give unto him which hath them. 4 Velin, a strong Town, and fortified with an impregnable Castle, betrayed by the Dutch Garrison, at that time in it, together with William of Furstenberg the great Master, into the hands of John Basilius the great Duke of Moscovie: who still holds it. 5 Derpt or Derbren, (in Latine Tupatum) a Bi∣shops See; situate on the Beck, or Einbeck betwixt two Lakes, in the midst of the Province; and taken at the same time by the Moscovite; who transporting the Livonians into other places, planted thos•• parts with Colonies of his own people. 6 Tornest, a Castle of great strength, taken then also by the Russ••s: but being recovered by the Polander, was blown up with Gun-powder, that it might no more come into the hands of the Enemy. Hitherto nothing of this Countrey which belongs to the Polander; these that follow doe, that is to say 7 Borcholm, the seat and residence of the Bishop of Rivalle, since the taking of that Town by the Swedes. 8 Weisenberg, incommodiously seated betwixt

two ill neighbours, Narve, and Rivalle, but serving very well to prohibit the incursions of those Gar∣risons further into the Countrey. 9 Werneber, in that part of Fstland, which is called Odinpen, and Wittenstein in that part thereof which is named Jervia.

In LETTENLAND, lying in the midst betwixt Estland and Curland, the places of most note are 1 Rita, (the people call it Rig) seated on the mouth of the River Dwina, falling there into the Baltick; first built, and planted at the charges of the Merchants of Breme; after that the Archbishops See, the ordinary residence of the great Master, and the chiefe City of the whole Province of Livonia. A town well fortified according to modern Rules of fortification, with a strong wall, large Bulwarks, double ditches, Palisadoes; and well provided of all manner of Ammunition: a famous Emporie, of great resort by forein Merchants, who carry hence Pitch, Wax, Hempe, Flax, and such other com∣modities. Governed (notwithstanding their subjection to the King of Poland) by their own Laws; and such stout defenders of their liberties, that they will by no means admit of any foreiner to have command of the City; obedient in all other things to the will of that King. 2 Dunamund, an impregnable fortresse, two Dutch miles from Riga, well garrisoned by Polanders, who here take toll of all forein Merchants. 3 Blokaws, a Garrison of the Kings betwixt Riga and Dunamund, where the Merchants are toll••d over again. 4 Winden, more within the land, on the River so called. 5 Wol∣mar, upon the River Treiden. 6 Kokenhan, a strong Towne on the banks of the Dwina. This Coun∣trey belongs wholly to the King of Poland, and stood firm for him in the war made by Charles Duke of Suderman, against his Nephew Sigismund King of Poland and Sweden, when almost all Eastland had submitted to him.

CVRLAND, the third and last member of this division, containing Semigallia also, lieth south of Lettenland, and north of Samogitia and Lituania: an entire Dukedome of it selfe, but holden un∣der the Soveraignty and homage of the kings of Poland. Places of most importance in it, are 1 Can∣den, 2 Goldingen, 3 Kies, (the Dutch call it Wenden) the seat of the Great Master of the Teutonick order in times past; now most frequented as the place of Parliament or Generall Assemblie for affaires which concern the publick. 4 Dubin, 5 Grubin, on the Sea side, but of no trade at all. 6 Halenpot. And then in Semigall, 7 Mitow, the Court and residence of the Dukes of Curland, 8 Selborch, 9 Bassembourg, 10 Do∣belin. No town in all this Dukedome of any trading, though lying for a great space all along the Baltick; because none of them furnished with commodious Havens. A Dukedome first begun in the person of Gothardus Ketler, (of one of the noble families of Danemark) the last Great Master of the Dutch Knights in this Countrey: who in the year 1562 surrendering his order and the whole pos∣session of Livonia to Sigismund Augustus King of Poland, received back again for him and his heirs for ever, the Dukedome of Curland and Semigall, to be held by them of that Crown: the Nobility of these Countreys doing then presently their homage and allegiance to him, as their Hereditary Prince. Since which time the Princes of this house have continued Feudataries unto Poland, but not reckoned as parts or members of the body thereof; not coming to the Diets, nor liable to the publick charges, nor having any thing to doe in the Kings Election: in a word, rather honourable Neighbours of the Kings of Poland, then subjects to them. The present Duke like to be much increased in estate and power, if the now Marquesse of Brandenbourg (whose sister is his mother) should depart without issue: For by that means there will be added to this house the great Dukedome of Prussia, those of Cleve and Gulick, together with such other Countries possessed now by that Marquesse, as he holds by descent from the Heires Generall of those Dukedomes: which makes him cast an eye already upon those Estates.

There belong also to Livonia some few Islands situate in the Baltick Sea, that is to say, 1 Osilia, 2 Dogeden, 3 Mona, 4 Wormse, 5 Wrangen, and 6 Kien. Of which the foure last doe belong to the King of Polands Dacuden, Dogeden King of Swethland; and Osilia or Oesel to the Dane. This last the chiefe of all the six, distant from the maine land of Livonia 12 Dutch miles, 14 of the same miles in length, halfe as much in breadth: the chiefe Towns thereof being Osel, a Bishops See, which gives name to the Island, 2 Sunberg. The Island made subject to the Danes by Magnus, brother of Frederick the se∣cond king of Denmark, who being chosen Administratour of the Bishoprick of Derpt, in Estland, made himself master of this Island, and some other peeces; which, dying without issue, he bequeathed to the King his brother, anno 1580.

As for Livonia it selfe, it was first under the Levoni and Estii two German Nations, from whom the Countrey had the name of Livonia, the people of Estlanders or Fstones. Distracted into many petit principalities, it was made acquainted with the Christian Faith by the care of the Merchants of Bre∣men, as before was said. Meinard their first Bishop being dead, and Bertold his successour slaine by such of the people as had not yet received the Gospell: the knights of the Port-glaive, and the sword were sent hither to defend the Preachers and their Doctrine by force of Arms. Finding themselves too weak to effect the businesse, they united with the order of Dutch Knights in Prussia, to whom from that time forwards they became subordinate; the Great Master of Livonia, acknowledging him of Prussia for his Superiour. These Knights continued Masters of it, without contradiction till the year 1557. (embracing in the meane time the opinions of Luther, anno 1528) when quarrelling with the Archbishop of Riga, of the house of Brandenbourg, because he would not adhere unto their opini∣ons; who to secure his own estate was forced to put Riga into the hands of the Polanders. After∣wards being overlaid by the Moscovite, who had taken from them almost all their Countrey, they

were faine to put themselves under the protection of Sigismund Augustus King of Poland,* 1.2 anno 1559 But William of Furstenburg the Great Master being betrayed by his own Mercenaries into the hands of the Moscovite: Gothardus his successour (following the example of Albert the Great Master of Prussia) transacted with the said Sigismund for the whole estate: which he surrendered to his use in the Ca∣stle of Riga, March 5. anno 1562. together with his Crosse the seale of the Order, the Charters and Grants of many of the Popes and Emperours which concerned the same; as also the Keies of the City and Castle of Riga, the Office of great Master, the rights of coynage, and all the powers and priviledges appertaining to it: receiving back again from Ratzevill the Kings Commissioner, the Duke∣dom of Curland, to him and to his Heirs for ever as before is said. By this transaction the Kings of Pole became masters of Liefland, more absolutely setled in it after a long war betwixt Steven King of Po∣land, and John Vasiliwick the Great Duke of Moscovie, who in the end surrendered all his claim therein to the said Steven and his successours, anno 1582. reserving onely some few Townes on the Easterne borders: the Danes and Swethlanders taking occasion by these troubles to impatronize themselves of Narve, Rivallia, Osel, and some other pieces.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Livonia.
• * 1.2

  Samogitia.