The art of longevity, or, A diæteticall instition written by Edmund Gayton.
Gayton, Edmund, 1608-1666.

CHAP. XXIV. Of the parts of Fowl.

THe bellies of all Fowl, brawny and tough,
Are of digestion long, and hard enough;
But master'd by the culinary fire,
They'r as good nutriment as you desire.
The wings of Geese in moistnesse do abound,
And so in Hens is the like juicenesse found;
Their constant motion makes them simply good,
An excellent and inoffensive food.
But oh the liver of the stubble Goose!
Set it before the grosse Vitellius,
Or Otho either, and this Emperour
Shall leave his glasse for it, 'tother his whore.
Wisdome of Cooks! oh arts of cramming Geese!
When Kitchin Machiavilian policies
Shall so contrive, that the attractive Liver
Shall starve all members to augment the liver,
And by devices Hyperphysicall,
Translate the Rickets from the head to th' caul.
Wonder in Caponry! but they grow plump
And fat, by stitching up the merry rump.
The necks of Geese and Hens, which we do cast
To th' dunghill, are an excellent repast;
Arabick dainties bought up by us of late,
By one, who on all City Feasts do wait,
Page  47The Factor of our Poultery gubbins, that
He may feed high his rare musk-making Ca.
The wings of flying creatures do excell
The leggs of walking, motion doth expell
Superfluous humours: so Fowl cramm'd and pent,
Though they be fat, are not good nourishment:
I do abominate the City-glutton,
Fat Capon-fed, and shoulder of Mutton:
If that must be th'entertainment and the cheer,
Give me the barn-fed bird and mountaneer.
The Eunuchs of all Fowl are best, and so prevail
With us, they are no longer meat but Ale:
Cock is an English malt, and we drink Fowl,
What once was dish'd is now swigg'd up i'th' bowl,
So that we do not now those gluttons think,
Who Capons eat, but those who Capons drink:
Cock-broth, the Ladies sure confortive
Is gone, for China Ale doth keep alive;
Who can desire more? Physitians unde
Is this rare cure from Munday * untill Sunday.
The brains of Fowl, less viscous and less dry,
Are better then of walking Poultery,
Who are of temper ex opposito,
(That's clean contrary, if you do not know.)
The brains of infant-Starling, Partridge, Pheasant,
And Cocks and Hens (Sir Mammon judge) is pleasant.