A late voyage to Constantinople containing an exact description of the Proportis and Hellespont, with the Dardanels, and what else is remarkable in those seas, as also of the city of Constantinople ... : likewise an account of the ancient and present state of the Greek Church, with the religion and manner of worship of the Turks, their ecclesiastical government, their courts of justice, and civil employments : illustrated ... in fourteen copper-plates ... / published by command of the French King by Monsieur William Joseph Grelot ; made English by J. Philips.

Of the Hellespont and the Dardanels.

THis famous Streight,* 1.1 which is otherwise call'd the Hellespont, lies in the 37th degree and 42 minutes of Northern Latitude, and of Longitude about the 55th. It extends not in length above ten or twelve Leagues at most. At the Entrance it is in breadth a good League and a half. To the Westward upon the left hand as ye enter, you be∣hold the Country of Thrace, which is a part of Eu∣rope, divided by the Hellespont from Troas, a Pro∣vince of Asia, that lies to the East. To the North lies the Propontis, and to the South the Egean Sea with the Archipelago.

At the Entrance of this Streight, upon the right hand, the Sygean Promontory runs out into the Sea by the name of Cape Ianisary, near to which stands a little Village inhabited by Christian Greeks.

The Turks call it Giaourkioi, or the Village of the Infi∣dels; it being the name which they generally give to all places where there are no Mosquees. It is situa∣ted near to the place where stood in former times the famous City of Sygeum, and by the People of the Country is call'd Troïaki, or Little Troy. Here a Traveller may take in store of good Refreshments and excellent Provision, as Hens, Eggs, Partridge, Rice, Butter, Melons, Fruit, and all so very cheap, that you may buy a Quarter of a hundred of Eggs for four or five Aspers, which is no more than two Sols and six Blanks of French Money;* 1.2 and a dozen of Hens or Pullets for half a Piaster, which is not above 30 Sols French. The Water also is there very good and well tasted; but that is not all; for the Island of Tenedos that produces most excel∣lent Muscadine Wines is not above a League di∣stance, and where you may have it for little or nothing, a whole Hogshead for a Crown. From the top of this Cape or Promontory you may take a full prospect of all the lovely Country of Troas, together with the Rivers of Xanthus or Scamander, and Simois, both taking their Sources and falling from the famous Mountain Id••. Both which Ri∣vers are much more beholding for their Reputation to the ancient Poets, than to the bulk of their own Streams, as being no bigger than that of the Gobelins at Paris. Sometimes in the Summer they are quite dry'd up; but at other times both uniting on the place where Troy stood, and there surrounding a great Marsh or Fen, they glide away under a wooden Bridge, supported with Stone Pillars, and so empty themselves into the Hellespont some half a League above this Cape, not far from the new Castle of Asia.

The Turks who never were addicted themselves to Liberal Arts, have made it their business rather to ruin and pull down the Monuments of Antiquity, than to erect new and sumptuous Fabricks accor∣ding to the strict Rules of Architecture. So that 'tis no wonder, while they so openly profess their ignorance in this particular, that there should ap∣pear so much deformity and irregularity in this new Castle of Asia, and that which is opposite to it in Europe, or that there is to be seen the same defect in all their other Castles and Fortresses which they have occasion to build. This Castle is seated upon a Tongue of Land pointing out into the Sea, upon a square Platform compos'd of four large Panes of Walls, flank'd at the four Corners with Towers; of which, those two next the Sea are square, with a sort of Redoubt only upon one side; the other two toward the Land are quite round. Between these four Towers there are five others, of which, four are also square, and one round, which de∣fend the Walls, but neither in thickness, bigness, or distance, one like the other. As for those which are wash'd by the Sea, they are furnish'd with Port∣holes that lie level with the surface of the Water, as also with their Curtins and Platforms. I told above forty of these well provided with Cannon, always mounted and continually charg'd, ready to play upon any Enemy that will run the hazard of adventuring into the Harbour by force.

But notwithstanding all this Expence and Cost bestow'd upon these Castles, there is no such neces∣sity for a Royal Navy to fear the force of that Bat∣tery, should a good occasion present it self to try the utmost of its Fury. For all the Cannons which are within, are mounted only upon Stones or great pieces of square Timber, without Frames or Car∣riages.

So that being once discharg'd, they will require a long time to charge and mount 'em again. In which interval of Time, it would be no diffcult thing with two or three thundering Broadsides to lay the inconsiderable Wall of the Castle level with the Earth, it not being above three foot in thick∣ness, or beat it about the Ears of the Soldiers and Cannoneers. By which means the Castles so made useless, would soon be taken by Storm or Surrender. The way to this Castle is from the North, (and joyns at the end of a Street to a very fair Mosquee which stands on the South side not far from the Shoar) from whence you may very plainly discern the Duomo and the Tower of the Temple.

Between this new Castle which the Turks call Natoli-inghi-issar, and Cape Ianisary, there lies to the North-east, a small Village or Borough, which carries the name of Inghi-issar-kioi, that is to say, the Borough of Newcastle. There is nothing consi∣derable that belongs to it, only the prospect of eight Windmills that stand all arow as you walk to the Sygean Promontory. Every one of these Mills are turn'd by eight Vanes, as is usual all over Turkie: Which is certainly done, to the end the Mills may have greater force to bruise and grind the Husk of the Grain, which causes the Flower to yield very little Bran, and is the reason also that the Bread which the Turks eat is nothing so white as ours, be∣cause there passes so much of the thin-ground Bran through the Bolter among the Flower.

And here now might I take occasion to talk of Achilles, and several others of the Grecian Captains that were interr'd upon this Promontory, as also to make a description of the Ruins of the so much re∣nown'd Ilium, of which the unfortunate Remains are to be discover'd not only upon Cape Sygeum, but also

in the Sea it self, and the Iland of Tenedos. But be∣cause several Travellers have prevented me, I shall say no more than only this: That if we consider how long it has been since the Ruin of this great City of Troy, and the prodigious quantity of Pillars and other Marble Pieces which the Christian and Tur∣kish Emperours residing in Constantinople made use of out of these Ruinous Heaps for Materials to build their Churches, Mosquees, Palaces, Baths, and other public Structures, and then consider likewise the vast Remains that still are left behind in broken pieces of Corinthian Architecture, we may certainly affirm, that Troy was one of the fairest, richest, and largest Cities of its time. 'Tis true, that the greatest part of those Ruins which now are to be seen, may be thought to be later than the Destruction of the Gre∣cian Flames, in regard that the Roman Emperours, and Augustus among the rest, sent several Colonies to renew the Pristine Glory of their Foster City, out of kindness to the first Original of the Roman Gran∣deur; but we are not thence to conclude, that it ever arriv'd at that Pomp and Magnificence wherein it flourish'd in the days of the Unfortunate Priam. Nor was that Restauration of any long continuance, seeing that in Lucan's time it was the same that now it is above sixteen hundred Years ago, as he himself testifies in the following Lines.

Iam Sylvae steriles, & putres Robore trunci Assaraci pressere Domos, & Templa Deorum Iam lassa Radice tenent, ac tota teguntur Pergama dumetis.

Now barren Woods and Oaks with Age decay'd, Assaracus's Palaces o'respread, The God's own Temples by their Roots fast bound, With Pergamum, lie cover'd under ground.

In short, the place where formerly stood that famous City, is now overgrown with Bushes and Brambles, spreading themselves among the Ruins that lye upon the descent of the Hill, which seems to have been the chiefest and best inhabited part of ancient Troy. This place is distant from the Sea, where in ancient Times was the Haven which be∣long'd to Troy, about a good League of bad way among Briers and Thorns. If any Traveller should be so happy as to meet in any of the Tombs which he shall find as he goes along, or in any other part of the Ruins of this great City, a cer∣tain Greek Manuscript, entitl'd▪ 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉 The Golden Compendium, or the ancient Book of the Kikanides, he would highly oblige the Commonwealth of Learning, by making it public to the World. For a certain Author assures us, that this Book lies buried in a certain Tomb within the City of Troy, together with the Bones of her first King Kicanis. For my own part I never could find it, and therefore left the search of it to some other person more fortunate than my self. And indeed I must confess, that I never be∣held the Ruins of Troy, which I have done now four times over, but still it perplexes me, that I could never yet be able to discover the least Inscription or Monument of Antiquity, which might afford me the least light into any particular of its being taken, or its ancient Splendour, but that I was still forc'd to go away with the same Exclamation of the Greek Poet:

〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉

Alas! alas! the unfortunate Foundation of the heretofore most happy Asian Land.

Seldom any person goes to view the Ruins of Troy, but he also crosses over to the Island of Tene∣dos, which lies just opposite against it. This Island is very pleasant and delectable to those that love good Wine, and delight in Hawking or Shooting, for there is great store of Wild-fowl, and plenty of Muscadel, and other excellent Wines.

The Harbour is not very considerable, only for small Turkish Vessels or Saicques; but for Ships of any greater force or burthen, it is no way fit to receive them.

However as bad as the Harbour is, yet the Island might be of great use for the erecting a strong Arsenal and a good Magazine, to put a curb upon the Hellespont, the Propontis, and Thracian Bosphorus, and to preserve the Dominion of the Archipelago.

During the stay which I made in this Island, two French Tartans came to an Anchor in the Road. For the same fowl weather that had caus'd the Saicque or Turkish Vessel, wherein I was a Passenger from Smyrna to Constantinople, to put into Tenedos, oblig'd the French-men to seek the same shelter. Stopping at this Port, some of the French Officers came ashore to refresh themselves, and were dire∣cted by a Greek that spoke Italian to the House where I was. They found me sitting at Table with a young Turk, who was also a Passenger in the same Vessel with my self, and not so scrupulous as others of his Religion in the business of drinking Wine, especially when he met with so good, as was that of Tenedos. However by reason of my Eastern Habit, my long Beard, and because I also discours'd in Turshish with my Ioldache, or Fellow-traveller, the French-men little thought me to be their Coun∣try-man, and that I understood every word they said. Thereupon they talk'd freely one to ano∣ther,

and at length discoursing over their Cups, they began to fall upon the Turkish and Grecian Wo∣men, as well in Tenedos, as in all the other Islands of the Archipelago.

For a while I said not a word to them, but kept talking on with my Turk: 'Till at last quite tir'd with hearing their extravagant Raillery occasion'd by the Wine, I could forbear no longer. And therefore faigning my self a Turk, only that I had been in France in the Train of Mustapha Aga, who was return'd about a year before, I told 'em in downright French, and like one that was somewhat angry withall,

That 'twas a sign they were French-men, and had drank hard to talk so boldly and impudently as they did, and to reproach and abuse our Women even to our faces, and in our own Country. Know Gentlemen, said I, that both by Reason and Custom they are much more re∣serv'd than yours. And though there may be some who perhaps may think bad enough, yet there is such good Order taken throughout this Empire, that they are depriv'd thereby of the opportunity to act. They seldom stir out of Doors, and they seldom are seen at any public Meetings or Assemblies. If sometimes they are permitted to go to their Devotions, they walk with their Faces vail'd, not daring to speak to any Man they meet; whereas the French Ladies make no scruple to march alone with a single Gallant, and admit him to tell Stories by their Bed-sides. And therefore, continu'd I, be not so rash another time to make such hard Censures upon such a ticklish point; for had I not a more than ordinary kindness for your Nation, I would soon let you understand the Power I have to re∣form your Judgments, and reduce ye from those

wild and inconsiderate Errors into which the Wine has plung'd ye, and learn ye to descant so idly upon a Truth which ye have so little examin'd.

Never were People more surpriz'd than these persons were, so that I am apt to believe, had not the Wine inspir'd 'em with more than ordinary Cou∣rage, the threatning Language which I gave them would have caus'd them to have made hast back to their Vessels. However, I could perceive they sat ve∣ry uneasie, 'till I my self believing I had kept 'em long enough in suspence, deliver'd them out of their bodily Fears, by first drinking the King's Health, and then informing them, that I was both their Country-man and Friend, and that the Turkish Ha∣bit which I wore, was only such as I was forc'd to wear to gain me freer and more easie passage in my Travels to and fro. And so the Frolick ended in a Glass or two of Wine more, 'till we had empty'd an Ocque of Muscadine, containing about three Chiopins or French Quarts. The next night the Wind chopping about, we weigh'd Anchor by break of day, and left the Island of Tenedos, of which I shall make no farther description, in regard the Plate which I have made of it, is too large for this Volume.

Having left Tenedos and doubl'd the Sygean Cape, we came between the two new Castles of Europe and Asia. One I have already describ'd, I shall now describe the other. This new Castle upon Europe side, which the Turks call Roumeli-inghi-issar, was built as well as the other opposite to it, by the present Sultan Mahomet the Fourth, the 23d Empe∣rour of the Turks. This haughty Potentate, being swell'd up with his Conquests, as being but feebly attack'd by his neighbouring Enemies, always be∣liev'd,

that the advantageous situation of the Dar∣danels was such as render'd it an Enterprize impos∣sible to break i••to the Propontis, and that conse∣quently the City of Constantinople was impregnably secur'd on that side. He was perswaded, as were also his Ancestors, that this same Streight of the Sea, which is the Gate of that Imperial City, was suffi∣ciently guarded and fortifi'd by those two Castles, which the Turks esteem'd to be extreamly strong. But having been given to understand to his cost and damage, in the year 1656, and the year following, that a bold and generous Captain stood in no fear of those Fortresses, and finding that those two magni∣ficent Piles, for the space of somewhat more than a Twelvemonth, had rather serv'd for Theaters, to behold the total defeat of the Ottoman Navy, than as places of succour and defence against the Vene∣tians, who fought the said Navy within reach of their Cannon, and triumph'd in their full view: Fearing therefore a second loss of the same kind, he caus'd those new Castles to be built at the entry of the Hellespont, according to the form and situation describ'd in the Draught. It will be necessary there∣fore, before I give any farther description of those two Fortresses, that the Reader permit me to make him a brief Relation of those two famous Actions, and the success of the Christian Arms, so fatal at that time to the Mahometans. They are proper to the subject of my Discourse, and I am the more oblig'd to make the Relation, as being engag'd in my acknowledgments to those two illustrious Per∣sons, to whose kindnesses and company in my Tra∣vels I was so peculiarly bound, as being highly honour'd in their Affection. These were the Lords Mark and Ambrose Bembo, both Gentlemen of Ve∣nice, who have always perform'd great Exploits,

and daily add to the Fame and Splendour of the noble and ancient Family of the Bembo's.

The first of these two noble Venetians was Gene∣ral of the Gallies of the Commonwealth of Ve∣nice in this Expediton. The second is a young Gentleman his Nephew, who at the Age of eighteen years, perceiving that the leisure of the Republic in Peace could not afford him matter sufficient to exercise his active Courage, generously quitted the pleasures of a sedentary Life, and betook himself to five or six years travel over the Eastern World. And in these perils and dangers he the more readily engag'd himself, to the end, that upon his return to his Country with mature Age and well-purchas'd Experience, he might render himself the fitter for such Employments which the Senate might deem worthy his merit. I had the happiness to meet him at Hispahan, returning from the Indies, whence I also had the honour to enjoy his Company all the way into Europe. In pursuance of which Journey, we came first into Syria to his most illustrious Uncle Mark Bembo's Residence, then Embassado••r for the Republic, and so at length arriv'd at Ve••••••••, where I was shew'd in the Palace of the Bembo's the whole Expedition of the Dardanels, set forth in a large piece of Painting, and rarely well done; and so from those who were there present, I had this account.

In the heat of the War of Candy, Marcello Moro∣sini General of the Men of War, and Marco Bembo General of the Gallies of the Republic, with Mon∣sieur the Prior of Rochel, who commanded seven Gallies of Malta, having intelligence that the Fleet of the Turks, consisting of sixty Gallies, thirty Men of War, forty five Galiotes, eight Mahons, and se∣veral other light Vessels, was ready to set Sail from

Constantinople with recruits to the Camp before Candy, they boldly sail'd away to the Dardanels to hinder the Turks from coming forth, though they had no more than twenty four Gallies, twenty eight Men of War, seven Galeasses, and some few other smaller Vessels. There they came to an An∣chor, and staid in expectation of the Ottomans, for about a Month, who upon notice of their arrival, durst not stir from Gallipoli. But at length, the Captain Basha understanding that the Venetian Fleet was much inferiour to him in number of Men and strength of Ships, weary of being so long pent up within the Castles, resolv'd to weigh, and by the favour of Wind and Tide to attack the Venetians, and force his passage through their whole Body.

And now the Ottoman Fleet being come under the Protection of the Dardanel Cannon, the Vene∣tians impatient of so long a delay, made toward the Enemy, and set upon them so furiously for a whole day together, and with that success, that of all the great number of Turkish Vessels already mention'd, only fourteen could possibly save them∣selves, who to avoid a general loss, were forc'd to make use of all their Oars and Slaves to get under the Protection of the two old Castles, the rest being all taken or sunk before their faces. True it is that the General Marcello Morosini being too far engag'd in pursuit of the flying Ottomans, was kill'd with a Cannon Shot, having lost about three hundred of his Men. But General Marco Bembo, according to his wonted Valour and Prudence, re∣solv'd to take the advantage of this Success, and to revenge upon the Island of Tenedos the loss of Morosini, whose place was soon after supply'd by Lazaro Mocenigo elected in his room. These two Generals therefore knowing the important Situa∣tion

of Tenedos to curb the Dardanels, and secure themselves Masters of the Archipelago, presently laid Siege to it, and carry'd it in fourteen days, and then fortifi'd it, and furnish'd it with Provi∣sions.

Nor is this the only time that the haughty Turks have been thus boldly outbrav'd upon their own Coasts. They who have read the History of Ve∣nice, or remember the War of Candy, can tell how frequently the Christian Arms have defeated the Ottoman Fleets, and taken their Ships within sight, and within the reach of these Castles. Among the rest, that exploit of General Delphino, in the year 1654. may serve for another Example, which can∣not be too often repeated; besides, that my Obli∣gations to the most eminent Cardinal Delfino his Brother in some measure compell me to renew the Relation.

This illustrious General finding himself separa∣ted by a Storm from the rest of his Fleet, with no more than four of his own Ships, met the next morning the Ottoman Navy, compos'd of thirty four great Vessels, fourteen others of less burthen, two Corsairs, forty Gallies, and six Galeasses, with which he was surrounded in an instant. This pro∣digious disproportion of Ships, Men, and Force, was enough to have scar'd 'em into a present Surrender, and to have daunted the Courage of any one but this undaunted Hero. However he was nothing at all astonish'd; but on the other side encouraging his slender Squadron either to overcome or dye, he de∣fended himself with so much prowess, and was so well seconded by Signior Iohn-Baptista de Sessa, and the rest of the Commanders of his small number, that he sunk several Vessels of the Enemy, kill'd above four thousand Turks, he boarded the Sultaness,

and took her Colours from her, and at length quit∣ted himself with Honour from the throng of his Enemies, with his four Vessels, and little loss of Men.

The famous Captain Georgio Maria would cer∣tainly have done the same, had he been well secon∣ded by those two Ships that were in his Company. But they treacherously and basely deserted him, and left him to fight all alone to the last drop, so that he deserv'd at one time the honour of having defended himself without assistance, and the reputation sin∣gly to have encounter'd the whole Ottoman Fleet. Another Venetian Corsair had set him a fair presi∣dent sometime before, who singly sustain'd the fury of the whole Ottoman Fleet in the Channel of Chio, where they had surpriz'd him, and yet got clear of them all, after he had fought for five or six hours, and very much endamag'd the Enemy.

But not to stop at any more of these Relations, of which an infinite number might be brought, I shall proceed to the description of the two For∣tresses of the Hellespont, by which a shrewd conje∣cture may be made of the strength of their other Militia.

These two Castles then being built after the two generous Exploits of Bembo and Mocenigo, have no more reason to terrifie a brave and resolute Commander, than if they had never been erected.

They are seated one from the other at such a distance, that a Ship may easily sail betwixt them both, without any great danger of their Culverins; they being distant the one from the other more than a League. They are both commanded by Hills, more especially that on Europe side, which is seated near to Cape Greco, for its form altoge∣ther irregular. The compass of the Walls con∣tains

certain Houses for the Aga and other Officers, with a Mosquee, of which the Domo and Steeple appear very plain to be seen, as well as the other Edifices, as being generally seated in the highest parts of the Fortification, from whence you de∣scend by large steps to the Platforms where the Guns are Planted, which lie equal with the surface of the Water. Near to this Castle lies a small Village, remarkable for nothing; together with five large Pilasters that serve to underprop several conveyances of Water to the Fort.

You are no sooner past these two new Castles, but you come to that part of the Sea which is call'd the Hellespont, or St. Georges Arm, into which they are the Inlets. It has been always the Thea∣ter of famous Actions, which the better a Man understands the Greek, Latin, and Modern Histo∣ry, with the greater delight he calls this place to memory. It is a great satisfaction at one and the same time, with one glance of the Eye to be∣hold Europe and Asia so nearly joyn'd together, as if they had a desire to embrace and unite under one and the same Conquerour, or that they did only separate there to open him a passage, and facilitate his generous Enterprises.

From these new Castles which we have describ'd, 'till ye come to the Old ones, there is nothing to be set down worthy Observation at this present time. Antiquity indeed beheld the shore adorn'd with several Cities and fair Villages, whose names are now so utterly forgotten, that they are no where to be found but in History. The People of the Country, as well Greeks as Turks, are so miserably overwhelm'd with Ignorance, that 'tis a vanity to ask them any Questions concerning them, or to expect from them the least accompt of the

place where the unfortunate Helle was drown'd, who losing her life in passing this same Streight, at what time she fled from Colchis with her Brother Phryxus with the famous Golden Fleece, bequeath'd her Name and Life to the honour of this narrow Arm of the Sea. They know nothing of the City of Arisbe, to which Homer gives the Epithite of Divine, nor of the Promontory or Town of Raetion, where the brave Ajax was entomb'd; being ignorant whether it were upon that Cape where now stands the new Castle of Asia, or upon that same jetty of Land near to the Mouth of Xan∣thus and Simois. So that you travel all this way, whether by Sea or Land 'tis all one, without ob∣serving any thing remarkable; and at length you arrive at the old Castles which the Turks call Boghase-issari, or the Castles of the Throat.

The old Castle upon Asia side by the name of Natoli-iski-issar, is a square Building flank'd at the four corners with Towers, of which those that are next the Sea are four-square also, but those that look toward the Land are round. In the midst of this Castle is a large square Tower, upon whose Platform are planted several Culverins. From this same Tower was made the fatal Shot that took away the Life of Lazaro Mocenigo, at what time (after he had giv'n a second defeat to the Turks Fleet in the year 1657) he was designing in spite of these Castles to have run up the Channel, and have fir'd Constantinople, had not that unfortunate blow at the same time disappointed him in the pur∣suit of so noble an Enterprise. Behind this Castle lies a large Village inhabited by about three thou∣sand People, whereof some few are Christians, the rest Turks and Iews. This place is considerable for nothing but for the command of the Passage

where it lies, and the most part of the great Guns lye unmounted even with the surface of the Wa∣ter, like those in the new Castles. They are in number twenty eight, and carry to the other side of the opposite shoar large Stone Balls, each weighing sixty pound, as likewise do those which are planted on the other side in the European Castle, the Chan∣nel lying between these two Castles not being above half a League broad.

The European Castle, which the Turks call Rou∣meli-iski-issar, is more irregular, and not so strong as that upon the Asiatic side. It is plac'd upon the descent of a Hill which commands it, and is com∣pos'd of three great Towers joyn'd together in a Triangular form, resembling the shape of a Heart. These Towers are environ'd with a circuit of Walls with certain half Towers, which descend to the Harbour, where lye about thirty Cannons equal with the Water, that carry the same Bullet with those on the other side; and they are planted ob∣liquely, lest by shooting streight forward the two Castles should mischief one another. Most people believe, that these two Castles, and the two Towns adjoyning, are the Ruins of the two ancient Cities of Sestos and Abydos; but in regard there are several that question the truth of it, and that it is a difficult thing to prove it, unless some curious Traveller shall hereafter discover something more convin∣cing, I shall leave the matter undetermin'd. The Franks or Europeans who travel into Turkie, call these two Castles the Dardanels, for that Dardanus the Son of Iupiter by Electra the Daughter of Atlas was the first King of this Country, who built therein a City, which he call'd by his own name Dardanum, and the Country round about it Dar∣dania. Virgil will have this City to be the same

with Troy, so call'd by Tros the Grandchild of Dar∣danus, and Father of the fair Ganimed. Others assure us, that the ancient Dardanum which was built upon the Hellespont where now the Dardanels stand, retain'd its ancient name, and that the new City built upon the Xanthus and Scamander, was first call'd Dardanum, afterwards Troy or Ilium. How∣ever it were, the Inhabitants of that ancient Darda∣num did not much exceed in Reputation those that now possess the Dardanels: For those formerly were accounted Magicians, according to that of Columella;

At si nulla valet Medicina repellere Pestem, Dardaniae veniant artes —

But if no Physic can repell the Plague, Let then Dardanian arts be us'd —

Or else such as minded nothing but their Profit, according to that of another Poet:

Dardanius merces divendit carius emptas.

Dardanian Wares he sells, more dearly bought.

They who now inhabit those Castles are much of the same disposition, where, as in several other parts of Greece you shall find several of those old kind of Sorceresses which they call Striglais, who being addicted to all sorts of mischief in their Infancy, and despairing of any other Allure∣ments to purchase their Love, put to sale the Affe∣ctions of others, of which they falsly vaunt them∣selves to be the Mistresses; or else they sell the satisfaction of their Hatred. They make use of

several sorts of Witchcraft, some they call Philtra, to create Affection; others Ecthra, to procure Ha∣tred; others Vaskarmiais or Phtarmiais, that deal in all sorts of Fascinations and Enchantments. These old Haggs practice after various manners, according to the mischief which they design; and although they go to work but by night and in se∣cret, for fear of being apprehended by the Souba∣chi, and thrown into the Sea with a Stone about their Necks, ty'd up in a Sack; yet I shall here set down one remarkable passage, which was related to me by a person that liv'd upon the place concer∣ning one of these Witches that was taken in the fact.

This same Race of Circe, having a design to re∣venge themselves upon any one that has perhaps but given them cross language in the Street, do it in this manner. They rise about Midnight, and take three Flint Stones, over which they mumble for about half an hour certain words, which they teach to none but their Scholars. Which being done, they put the Stones in the Fire 'till they are red hot, at what time they take 'em out again to light a little Wax Candle at each, which they place upon the three feet of a three-legg'd Stool, in a kind of imitation of the Trikirion of the Greek Bishops. This done, they lay the three-legg'd Stool across upon their Heads, take up the three Flints, by this time cold, and in this Equipage forth they go into the Street where the Party lives, and being come to the first place where they find three ways to meet, they throw the three Stones into the three different passages, believing, that by the help of such words which they utter at the same time, that those Fascinations will procure the mischief they intend. Beside these, they have also a hun∣dred

other little Tricks, which they practice as well for the telling of Fortunes, as for Witchcraft, to which, as the more rational Turks give little or no credit, so are they much less worth mentioning here.

As for their Trading, the most part of the Mer∣chants in the Towns belonging to these two Ca∣stles, especially the Iews, are great gainers: For they buy cheap out of the Christian and Turkish Vessels that pass through the Channel, and sell again with considerable advantage, either upon the place, or else they carry their Markets to other Towns and Villages upon the dry Land, where they turn to good accompt. But as it is common with all Merchants to sell as dear as they can, I shall say no more concerning the Inhabitants of the Darda∣nels, who do no more than Castor in Martial:

Omnia Castor emit; sic fiet ut omnia vendat. Castor buyes all, and so must all things ••ell.

I forgot to advertise the Reader, that when you come near these Castles by Sea, you are bound to salute 'em, by giving 'em a certain number of Guns proportionable to the Burthen and Quality of your Ship. For the Saics, in which I happen'd to be three times a Passenger to Constantinople, though no other than great Boats, like those that pass between Roan and Paris, and which had no other sort of Artillery besides two or three Pot-Guns, were how∣ever forc'd to discharge them, without any return from the Castles. But as to other Vessels of grea∣ter bulk and force, I shall relate what I have far∣ther observ'd. When a considerable Merchant∣man comes near either of the Castles, it behoves him

to give them at least three, if not five or seven Guns. But if it be a Man of War, he must give seven at least, otherwise nine or eleven, to which the Castle answers with one, three, or five, to which the Man of War returns three, five, or seven; and so steers on her Course, if she be inward bound. But if they be Ships that be outward bound, whe∣ther Merchants or sometimes Men of War, they are forc'd to stay two or three days, 'till they have been duly search'd and examin'd. Which will not permit me to forbear one short Story wherein I had a concern my self.

When Mustapha Aga, who was sent into France in the year 1669. had finish'd his Embassy, the King sent him back to Constantinople attended by four Men of War well appointed, who also carried Monsieur de Nointel to reside at the Port in the room of Mon∣sieur de la Haye-Vantelet. These four Men of War, under the Command of Monsieur d' Aplemont, being arriv'd at Constantinople, rode there six weeks at an Anchor; so that while the two French Embassa∣dours were preparing the one for his reception, and the other providing for his departure, the four Captains had the opportunity to pleasure a great many poor Slaves that privately stole aboard in order to their Liberty. All that came were kindly receiv'd, a number indeed so considerable, that might well oblige their Patrons to complain to the Caimacan, or Governour of Constantinople. But in regard the greatest part of these poor Slaves were people of no value, and only belonging to some of the City Traders, and persons of mean condition, the Caimacan gave the Complainants only soft an∣swers, but did no more. For he knew that Mon∣sieur d' Aplemont, having formerly threaten'd, when he had but one Ship, to fire the Seraglio and the City

if he had not satisfaction given to his demands, was not a person easily to be compell'd to restore the Slaves he had taken, under the protection of four stout Men of War. Nor had the Caimacan taken any farther notice of what pass'd aboard the French, had he not been oblig'd to it by the escape of Mon∣sieur de Beau-jeu. This illustrious Knight of Malta, weary of several years Captivity in the Castle of the seven Towers, where he was a Slave to the Grand Signor, resolv'd to lay hold of the opportu∣nity of the four Men of War lying in the Road, and to free himself by a slight which the French Ad∣miral had promis'd to second. In short, he made a brisk and cunning escape out of the Castle, but being too quick for the Shallop that was sent to receive him, for fear of being pursu'd, and discover'd by certain Dogs that bark'd after his heels, he was constrain'd to take the Water, not without great danger; for a Saic coming along, he receiv'd a good knock of the pate from one of the Oars, which forc'd him to dive; and he had been cer∣tainly lost, had not the Turks taken him for one of those very Creatures from which he fled. But at length the Shallop took him up, and carry'd him aboard. The next morning the Aga of the seven Towers understood his Prisoner was flown, and thereupon went and gave the Caimacan immediate notice of it, who then thought it high time to send Post away to the Dardanels to stop the four Men of War until they had restor'd Monsieur Beaujeu. The Courier got thither before the King's Vessels were pass'd, though they set sail almost at the same time that the Gally put forth; so that when they came near the two old Castles, the Forts never stay'd for a Salute, but to prevent their kindness, saluted them first with two or three great Guns laden with

Ball as well as Powder from both sides of the Channel.

This was signal enough to the Men of War, that they were to pass no farther by fair means. Where∣upon they came to an Anchor, and immediately Monsieur d' Aplemont the Admiral sent to the Aga of the Castles, whose Quarters are generally upon Asia side, to demand the reason of his so uncivil Complements to the French Fleet. The Aga re∣turn'd for answer, That he had orders not to let him stir any farther, unless he surrender'd back the Body of Monsieur Beaujeu, who was his Highnesses the Sultan's Slave; and with him likewise the Bo∣dies of three hundred Slaves more which he was carrying away, that had made their escapes from several private persons, their Masters; to which purpose he intended to send his Officers aboard him to make the same search which was usually made of all Merchants Vessels in the Road, that set sail from Constantinople. Monsieur d' Aplemont gave him to understand by his Interpreter, that he had no Slaves aboard, for that all Men were born free; so that if he should be so adventurous as to send any persons to search his Master's Ships, he would hang them up at the Yards Arm in sight of his Ca∣stles; and that as to what concern'd the freedom of his passage, he did not much trouble his thoughts about it. For that if the Courier which he would dispatch to Adrianople with his own, if he pleas'd, did not bring him an Order for free passage, he would give notice two days before he weigh'd An∣chor, to the end he might have the more time to prepare himself within his Forts against the fury of the French Valour and Artillery.

This was an Answer very bold and haughty, considering the place where Monsieur d' Aplemont

lay. Nevertheless I verily believe he would have been as good as his word. For during the time that the Messengers were absent, he employ'd his Men in fitting and preparing all things ready, as well for the attack, as for his own defence. But in thirteen days the Messenger return'd, and brought from Adrianople express Orders to the Aga of the Castles to let the French Vessels pass, with all the persons that were aboard. At what time also the Grand Signor sent away to the Caimacan of Con∣stantinople a severe Command to cut off the Head of the Aga of the seven Towers, to learn both him and his Successors for the future to be more careful of the Prisoners of that Castle, especially when they were of such great Quality as Monsieur Beaujeu. These Orders were quickly obey'd; so that the King's Ships weigh'd Anchor the next day, and departed.

In this same part of this Streight it was, that Xerxes, enrag'd to see the foaming and tempe∣stuous Waves oppose his passage into Greece, caus'd the Sea to be whipp'd, and afterwards in disdain of its Power, joyn'd both the Continents together by a Bridge of Boats, and made the Sea as it were to groan under the weight of the floating Burthen.

However in the same place it was, that soon after the chaf'd Billows fully reveng'd themselves for the injury done them. For breaking the Chains of the Bridge with a violent storm, the Sea was in a short time fill'd with the Ruins, and shatter'd pieces of that laborious piece of Humane Haughtiness. So that Xerxes being soon after constrain'd to fly the same way, and finding his vain-glorious Tri∣umph o're the Hellespont utterly destroy'd, was enforc'd to betake himself disguis'd to a small Fi∣sherboat to save his life, and rescue himself from

the general Massacre of his Army; so hard it was then for him to get a small Skiff to avoid the Chains and Shackles of a victorious Enemy, who but a little before had vaunted of his having shackl'd the Ocean, drank up Rivers, and sail'd over the dry Land, as it were to insult over Nature her self.

Some perhaps may say, that I tarry too long be∣tween Sestos and Abydos, and bid me beware, lest out of a desire to entertain the Reader with such remarkable passages as have renown'd these Parts, I run the risco of Leander's misfortune: for he, co∣vetous to converse with his amiable Hero, was lost in this narrow Bay, mistaking the steerage of his Arms. In the same manner the satisfaction which I find in tracing over again the Representation of the same Places, and calling to mind the several passages of Antiquity that happen'd there, may be thought to have withdrawn me too far from my Subject. Wherefore I shall leave Sestos and Aby∣dos, and come now to Lampsacus,* 1.3 that lies not far from it. This City is not now in that splendid condition wherein it flourish'd, at what time it was by Xerxes appointed to furnish Themistocles with Wine for him and his Attendants; being at pre∣sent no more than a miserable Village, which re∣tains nothing of its Antiquity, but the Hills that environ it, still cover'd with some few Vines, whose Grapes are pleasing, and the Wine which they afford most excellent, but not very plentiful.

The City of Magnesia,* 1.4 the Metropolis of Lydia, which was also allotted to the same Grecian Cap∣tain, for his provision of Bread, has much better preserv'd its ancient Magnificence, being still very large, fair, rich, and in good Trade. But as for Myus in Ionia,* 1.5 the third City appointed to Themi∣stocles

for the substantial Food of himself and his Followers, it has been a long time buried in its own Ruins.

On the left hand over against Lampsacus stands the City of Caligula, corruptly call'd Gallipoli.* 1.6 This is a large City, and the Port very convenient and spacious. It appears much above the Sea, and as most of the Sea-Towns of the Turkish Empire is peopl'd with Christians, Iews, and Turks, who have every one their Churches, Synagogues, and Mosquees, and corresponding very amicably toge∣ther, maintain themselves and their Families, either by Merchandize, or by their Handicraft Trades.

Nor can I yet quit the Hellespont, without adding this farther for the benefit of all Seamen, what they are to observe, and how to steer to avoid the dangers of this passage. Upon the first entrance into this Streight, it behoves you to steer first North and North and by East for the space of about a League to the low Point upon the Eastern shoar a little above the Mouth of Simois, which must be avoided by reason of a Sand-bank that stretches toward the West. After which, you must steer Northward, then North-east and by East for about eight Leagues, as far as Gallipoli, to the West of which lies a large Bay, where you ride in a safe Road secure from the Northern Winds, in twenty fathom Water. But entering into this Port, you must take care of coming too near the South Coast of Gallipoli, by reason of a Bank of Sand, and certain Rocks that lye hid under Water; and for the same reason take the same care to avoid steering too near to the North, and thus In medio tutissimus ibis; which is a Rule indeed to be observ'd through the whole Hellespont.

Notes

• * 1.1

  Fig. 1.
• * 1.2

  10 Sols make an English Shilling, and 12 Blanks a Sols.
• * 1.3

  Lampsa∣cus.
• * 1.4

  Magne∣sia.
• * 1.5

  Myus.
• * 1.6

  Gallipoli.