A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

CHAP. III.

A Visit to Baçein, a Portugal City in India; our return by Elephanto, and the Putachos, with Observations on the Island Bombaim.

THE several Capitaneos of the Portugals are Triennial,* 1.1 which are the Alternate Governments entailed on the Families of the Conquerors, and therefore made Circular; every one in his course having his turn to rule in some Place or other for Three Years, and upon these they can borrow or take up Mony as certain as upon their Hereditary Estates, the next Incumbent being Secu∣rity for the payment: Pursuant to this, a new Governour coming to Choul, his Honour the President sent to congratulate him; and the Admiral of the North coming to Baçein, another was sent on the same Message.

Nor could the hot Months be over, before John de Mendos, of a Noble Family, sent for me to Baçein for the cure of his only Daughter, illustriously born, handsome, and on the point of

Marriage with the Admiral of the North, though not full Twelve years old.

Leaving Bombaim,* 1.2 at this time of the year, we could go either within or without; but the first being related to be pleasantest, I chose that way; sailing by Trumbay, where we receive Custom, we might see a comely Church and Ald••••: At Noon we reached Tanaw: Having gained our Passage over the Flats, we made no stay, but rowed streight to Baçein; every half Mile we were presented with fresh Prospects of delicate Country-Mansions; two of which of spe∣cial note draw the Eyes of the Beholders; one of John de Melos, three Mile off Tanaw, it standing high, curiously built, has a Tarras Descent with Walks and Gardens half a Mile, till it lead to a spacious Banquetting-house over the Water, with Stone-stairs for Landing: Beyond it a Mile, on the side of an Hill, stands Grebondel, a large neat built Town of Martin Alphonso's; and at top of all, his House, Fort and Church, of as stately Architecture as India can afford; he be∣ing the Richest Don on this side Goa. Here we are Land-locked by the Gut, which is fabled to be made by Alexander; from which we have an open passage to Baçein, it lying bare towards the Sea.

BACEIN

Is incircled with a round Stone-wall,* 1.3 and has a Gate for every Wind; it is strong enough against the Indians, but not able to en∣dure an European Foe: There are upon the Out-walls, and in the Fort, Forty two great Guns; the Fort in the middle of the City is circular; towards the Market appears a State-house Piatzed, where the Governour convocates the Fidalgos every Morning upon consul∣tation, in which they all stand, a Chair not being permitted the Go∣vernour, though Gouty: Towards Evening they meet there to Game.

Within the Walls are six Churches,* 1.4 four Convents, two Colleges, one of the Jesuits, another of the Franciscans. It bears the Name of an Academy; the Students are instructed in the Jesuits College, but live in Town: Where is a Library, with Classes of Historians, Mo∣ralists, Expositors, and no more. It is a College of Polite Structure, in the Portuco is a Copy of Angelos, representing the Resurrection; above Stairs, as well as below, are fine square Cloisters, as all their Collegiate Churches have, on the sides whereof are their Cells; they have a spacious Refectory, and a goodly Church; three parts of the City is devoted to their use.

The Fidalgos (for few Artisans are tolerated within the Walls) have stately Dwellings,* 1.5 graced with covered Balconies, and large Windows two Stories high, with Panes of Oister shell, which is their usual Glazing among them in India, or else Latised. They shew their Greatness by their number of Sumbreeroes and Cofferies, whereby it is dangerous to walk late for fear of falling into the Hands of those Pilfering Abusive Rascals. None but Christians lodge within the City, the Banyans repairing to the Suburbs upon Tattoo. The City is a Mile and half round; it stands on an Island, separated by a small Channel from the Main, as far off the Island Canorein, as Canorein from Bombaim, and parted after the like nature.

The Land about it plain, and fruitful of Sugar-Canes, Rice, and other Grain; a great part of which has lately been destroyed by the Arabs of Muschat,* 1.6 who put them to a sore fright in Baçein: and this is done often, setting fire to their Villages, and carrying away their Fidalgos Prisoners, together with their Wives and Families, butcher∣ing the Padres, and robbing the Churches without resistance, con∣ceived on a deadly Feud, partly out of revenge of the Portugal Cruelties at Muschat; but chiefly out of detestation of each other's Religion; insomuch that Quarter is denied on either side: But that on this Pretence. The Portugals striving to pos∣sess themselves of Muschat,* 1.7 were put to such stress, that had not their Armado come to their relief, they must have desisted their Enterprize: Upon the arrival whereof the new Recruits gained so much on the Arab Governour, that he yielded up the otherwise invincible Fort of Muschat; where the Portugals acting all nefarious Outrages, contrary to their Promise, the Arabs re-armed themselves with Courage and fresh Succors, and at length beat them from hence to Ormus in the Gulf of Persia; from whence also they were routed by the help of the English (we then being at war with them); the first blow to their Greatness in these Parts.

To check these Incursions of the Arabs,* 1.8 the Portugals every Year are at the charge of a lusty Squadron in these Seas, which were those we met on the Coast returning from thence; who were no sooner gone, than the Arabs sent their Fleet to do this Mischief here; which now 'tis done, they are again in quest of them, but they fly as of∣ten as these pursue.

And if such be the gasping Strength of the Portugals,* 1.9 to terrify the Potentest Enemies to Christianity in these Parts, what was their flou∣rishing Estate? Whence it may easily be supposed before now all had bowed to the Cross, which yet bend under Heathenism or Mahome∣tism, had they not been prevented by unhappy Pretenders, that (I fear) too much preferred Merchandize and private Pieques, before the welfare of Religion: For it is morally probable, that had not the Dutch and we interrupted them, all might have been Christian in these parts of the World.

Having in a Week's time compleated my Business,* 1.10 returning the same way, we steered by the South side of the Bay, purposely to touch at Eliphanto, so called from a monstrous Elephant cut out of the main Rock, bearing a Young one on its Back; not far from it the Effigies of an Horse stuck up to the Belly in the Earth in the Val∣ley; from thence we clambred up the highest Mountain on the Island, on whose Summit was a miraculous Piece hewed out of solid Stone: It is supported with Forty two Corinthian Pillars, being a Square, open on all sides but towards the East; where stands a Statue with three Heads, crowned with strange Hieroglyphicks: At the North side in an high Portuco stands an Altar, guarded by Giants, and im∣mured by a Square Wall; all along, the Walls are loaded with huge Giants, some with eight hands, making their vanquished Knights stoop for mercy. Before this is a Tank full of water, and beyond that ano∣ther Place with Images. This seems to be of later date than that of Canorein, though defaced by the Portugals, who have this Island also;

but no Defence upon it, nor any thing else of Note; it may be Ten Miles round, inhabited by the Povo, or Poor: From hence we sailed to the Putachoes, a Garden of Melons (Putacho being a Melon) were there not wild Rats that hinder their Growth, and so to Bom∣baim.

The Weather now was grown excessive hot,* 1.11 the Earth beginning to gape for Thirst, the Sun being in its Zenith with us; the South Winds are set in strong, and the Toddy-Trees ferment their Wine over the Vessels, the Prodromi of the ensuing Rains; which make their first shew at the first Full Moon in May, and continue a Fort∣night, in which space it is unhealthy; till after a Fortnight's fair Weather they set in for altogether.

This Season makes the Syddy retreat hither with his Fleet, who from a Lord of Duccan is promoted to be the Mogul's Admiral;* 1.12 or truer, driven to distress by Seva Gi, undertakes this Employment, in confidence to recover his own Dominion on the Sea-Coast, whilst the Mogul's General at Land is to stop his Proceedings on that side: But Seva Gi possessed of his Country, and bidding for his strong Castle at Dan de Rajapour Bay, which he has been to defend this Summer, derides his Attempts, and is preparing to be install'd Mau Raja, or Arch Raja, at his Court at Rairee; for which an Embassy to keep all right must be dispatch'd.

In the mean while Nature affords us a pleasant Spectacle for this Season,* 1.13 as well as Matter for Admiration; whereby I know not why we should deny Reason wholly to Animals; unless it be, Man ha∣ving so much, they seem comparatively to have none: For here is a Bird (having its Name from the Tree it chuses for its Sanctuary, the Toddy-Tree) that is not only exquisitely curious in the artificial Composure of its Nest with Hay, but furnished with Devices and Stratagems to secure its self and young ones from its deadly Enemy the Squirrel; as likewise from the Injury of the Weather; which being unable to oppose, it eludes with this Artifice, contriving the Nest like a Steeple-hive, with winding Meanders; before which hangs a Penthouse for the Rain to pass, tying it by so slender a Thread to the Bough of the Tree, that the Squirrel dare not venture his Bo∣dy, though his Mouth water at the Eggs and Prey within; yet it is strong enough to bear the hanging habitation of the Ingenious Con∣triver, free from all the Assaults of its Antagonist, and all the Acci∣dents of Gusts and Storms: Hundreds of these Pendulous Nests may be seen on these Trees.

Here is another Tree called Brabb,* 1.14 bodied like a Cocoe, but the Leaves grow round like a Peacock's Tail set upright, of the same substance with the Cocoe, only varying in figure; the Fruit of this is less than the Cocoe, and filled with a Gelly; the Wine from this is preferred new, before the other; there is a Tuft at top, cut off and boil'd eats like Colliflowers; on which Tree these Birds build also.

And now the Rains are set in,* 1.15 all Hostilities and Commerce cease, and every one provides for this time, as the laborious Ant for the Winter, here being no stirring out to Sea, or travelling in the Coun∣try; the best Pastime now being good Fellowship. Thus lies this place afloat, and the Rains and Thunder are violent enough to con∣vince the incredulous of a possibility of a General Deluge. This

holds with little intermission till St. Francis's Moon,* 1.16 the first Full Moon in August; when our Europe Ships, if they save their Passage about the Cape, venture to make in here, by the directions of the yellow Bellies of the formerly mentioned Water-Snakes, who are a warning to them of adventuring too near the Shore, till this open Weather appear.

After this Full Moon,* 1.17 the Banyans, assisted by their Brachmins, go in Procession to the Sea-shore, and offer Cocoe-Nuts to Neptune, that he would restore them their Mare Pacificum; when they make Pre∣parations to go to Sea, and about their Business of Trade.

By this opportunity our Ambassadors crossed an Arm of the Sea, and returning from Seva Gi, delivered the President this following Account; which I the rather insert, because the manner of dealing with these Princes and Great Men may be the better understood by this formal Address.

Notes

• * 1.1

  The Capita∣neos of the Portugals Al∣ternate.
• * 1.2

  A Message to Baçein.
• * 1.3

  The City is round.
• * 1.4

  Six Churches within the Walls.
• * 1.5

  The Dwel∣lings of the Fida••gos.
• * 1.6

  The Devasta∣tions made by the Arabs about Baçein.
• * 1.7

  The ground of their Quar∣rels.
• * 1.8

  The Arabs care not to engage the Portugals.
• * 1.9

  Their last Ef∣forts.
• * 1.10

  Eliphanto, ano∣ther Idola∣trous Temple cut out of a solid Rock.
• * 1.11

  The Heats.
• * 1.12

  The Mogul's Fleet winter at Bombaim.
• * 1.13

  The Ingenui∣ty of the Toddy Bird.
• * 1.14

  The Brabb-Tree.
• * 1.15

  The Rains set in.
• * 1.16

  Chap. IV.
• * 1.17

  The Heathens make an Of∣fering to the Sea.