A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.

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Title
A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables.
Author
Fryer, John, d. 1733.
Publication
London :: Printed by R.R. for Ri. Chiswell ...,
1698.
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"A new account of East-India and Persia, in eight letters being nine years travels begun 1672 and finished 1681 : containing observations made of the moral, natural and artifical estate of those countries ... / by John Fryer ... ; illustrated with maps, figures and useful tables." In the digital collection Early English Books Online. https://name.umdl.umich.edu/A40522.0001.001. University of Michigan Library Digital Collections. Accessed May 10, 2025.

Pages

Page 1

A NEW ACCOUNT OF India and Persia: In Eight LETTERS. (Book 1)

LETTER I. Containing a Twelve Month's Voyage through Divers Climates. (Book 1)

CHAP. I.

Treats of Embarking and Passage 'till past St. Iago.

SIR,

FOR your singular Favour,* 1.1 in seeing me Aboard-ship (which might reasonably be sup∣posed the last kind Office to a departing Friend, considering the various Chances of so long a Voyage, as well as the Uncertainty of my Return) I must keep to that Promise, whereby you obliged me to give you an ac∣count not only of my Being, but of what Occurrences were worth my Animadversion.

You may remember,* 1.2 It was the 9th of December, in the Year of our Lord 1672. when by virtue of an Order from the Honourable East-India Company, I being received on Board the Ʋnity, we took of each other a long Farewel; the Ship then breaking Ground from Graves-End, to fall down to the Buoy in the Nore.

The London,* 1.3 our Admiral, lay expecting our whole East-India Fleet there, which were Ten in Number; to whom his Majesty, Charles II. was pleased to grant Letters of Mart: Which impowered them to wear the King's Jack, Ancient and Pennant, and to act as Men of War (the English and French at this time being at open De∣fiance against the Dutch.)

Page 2

When they were altogether,* 1.4 their Commands were to go over the Flats;* 1.5 which, notwithstanding the Hazard to Ships of their Burthen, was thought securer now than to venture about the King's Channel, where they might be exposed to the Attempts of the Hol∣landers: By which means, together with the unsteadiness of the Weather, it was the day after Christmas before we arrived at the Downs; where rode a rich and numerous Fleet of Merchants, with their respective Convoys, designed for their several Places of Traffick, when the Wind should present.

Here,* 1.6 as we ended the Old Year, so we began the New with a desire of prosecuting our intended Voyage: But a South-West Wind prevented our Course, and held us there Three Weeks; when an East Wind made a general delivery and a clear Downs.

Being at Sea, we made easy Sail, that our Ships might have the liberty that Night to single themselves from the Crowd of the other Ships; notwithstanding which Proviso, we had a shrewd Suspicion; for Night hastening on (and in such a swarm of Vessels of greater bulk, not so readily manageable as smaller) we beheld three Lights out of the Poop of a goodly Ship, the same unfortunate signs our Directions bound us to take notice of; which made us conclude the Damage on our side, as indeed it proved by the next Morning-song; for having cast our Eyes abroad to look what Ships we had in company, running over a great many (that had shrowded them∣selves under our Protection and of Six Men of War more, Captain Munday Commander in chief (whereof Two were Fireships) sent for to meet the East India Fleet at Sancta Helena, for their better Defence homeward-bound, and to prevent their falling into the Ene∣mies Hands, who had lately possessed themselves of that Island) we at length missed the Massenberg,* 1.7 on whom (it seems) a small Pink falling foul, had carried away her Head and Boltsprit, and 'tis to be feared has disabled her this Voyage; we saw her afterwards make for Portsmouth.

Off the Land's End we met with Four English Merchant Ships,* 1.8 Two French Men of War their Convoys, laden from Cales, bound for London.

In Four ••••ys, from the Downs, we were losing England on our Backs, reckoning the Lizzard the most extreme part South to bear North and By East 14 Leagues; from whence hereafter we were to fetch our Meridian Distance: It lies in the Latitude of 50 deg. 10 min. North.

Thus relinquishing the British Seas,* 1.9 we make our selves Possessors of the Western Ocean for a while: 'Till following our Compass more South, we contend with the troublous Wind and tempestuous Waves for some part of the Bay of Biscay, whose Mountain Seas we are to cut through to the Main Atlantick.* 1.10 What makes these Seas in such a constant Turmoil is imputed to the falling in of the whole Force of the Western Ocean into this Sinus without any Impediment, 'till it re∣coil against its Shores; so that in the calmest Season here are always high swelling Billows.

About the Latitude of 41 the Men of War,* 1.11 that came out with us, determining to make the Madera Island, went away more Easterly, and the next day were out of sight.

Page 3

Two days after we espied one Sail to the Leeward under a main Course,* 1.12 steering very doubtfully; after she had had her full view of us, she made from us too nimble for us to follow; we supposed her to be either an Algerine Pirate, or a Dutch Privateer. We still directed our Course South, and in Twenty four Hours ran One hundred and seventeen Miles by our Log-board for some days together,* 1.13 the Wea∣ther not allowing us to observe with the Quadrant; but as soon as we could take the Sun's Altitude, we found our selves to be in the Latitude of 36 deg. 2 min. North, Longitude 7 deg. 26 min. West, an hundred Mles in four Days more than we judged our selves to be; which sufficiently proves the little credit to be given to the for∣mer way of reckoning.

The following day maintaining the same Course, we past by the Mouth of the Streights of Gibraltar,* 1.14 one of Hercules's Pillars, the farthest Point South of all Europe.

Here we began to drop the rest of our Company,* 1.15 some striking East for the Streights, others West for the Canaries, Virginia, &c.

At Noon our Admiral fired a Gun, and hoisted his Ancient, whereby we understood he saw Land, which we thought to be Porto Porto, bearing off us East. An hour more being hardly run, we in like manner made the Madera Island,* 1.16 the largest of the whole Atlantick, being South-East some twelve Leagues, too great a di∣stance to take a perfect Landschap, it being only discernible to be Land, and confirmed to be so by this days Observation, which was 33 deg. 17 min. to the Northward of the Equator, in Latitude and Longitude from the Lizzard as before, we having neither raised nor depressed it. Where the Trade-winds begin to offer themselves, the Mariner relaxes his anxious care of Sailing, and is at more lei∣sure to Repose; he not being so often called upon to shift his Course, or hand his Sails; which has yet this inconvenience, giving him leave now to fall into those Distempers Idleness contracts, viz. the Scurvy, and other ill Habits; unless rouzed by an Active Com∣mander, either to Sports, or more useful Employments: Although the perfect knowledge of these Trade-winds (which are more con∣stant within the Tropicks) are of such importance as to make our Modern Navigators perform that in six Months, which took up the Pains and Travels of as many Years from the first Discoverers, they keeping all along the Shore, whereupon they became not only liable to unaccountable Changes,* 1.17 as they met with Land briezes, Head-lands, or Contrary Winds; but were many times disappointed either to go on, or return, by the several Accidents they encountered thereupon; which these more experienced and bold Adventurers by standing off to Sea, and study of their Compass by a more accu∣rate Computation of their Way by the Quadrant and Azimuth, and a strict enquiry of the commencing and terminating of these Winds, avoid.

In this short space we have almost out-ran the Northern Winter's Blasts, and begin to be sensible of a more vigorous Clime, whose temperate Warmth adds Spirits to our frozen Limbs: Yet in this forward Spring (for such it seemed to us) we cannot escape some Lashes of that cold Nemesis; for Night being come, she sends a Storm of Rain and Hal with an high and bleak Wind, in which

Page 4

appeared the Sailors Deities, Castor and Pollux, or the same it may be gave light to those Fables, they boding fair Weather to Seamen, though never seen but in Storms,* 1.18 looking like a Candle in a dark Lanthorn, of which there were divers here and there above the Sails and Shrowds, being the ignes fatui of the Watery Element; by the Portugals christned Querpo Santos, the Bodies of Saints, which by them are esteemed Ominous. But I think I am not too positive in relating them to be a Meteor-like substance exhaled in the Day, and at Night (for except then, they shew not themselves) kindled by the violent Motion of the Air, fixing themselves to those parts of the Ship that are most attractive: For I can witness they usually spent themselves at the Spindles of the Top-mast-heads, or about the Iron-hoops of the Yard arms, and if any went towards them, they shifted always to some Part of the like Nature.

The succeeding Morning had not long withdrawn this black Vail, and brought us tidings of a more serene Day, when we beheld our Frigots that had left us,* 1.19 busking after us with all the winged speed they could, and about Noon they gained us, keeping on the same Course as we, but missed of their design of touching at the Ma∣dera's.

Being blessed with a prosperous Gale, in fifteen Days from Eng∣land we were to the Southward of the Tropical Circle of Cancer,* 1.20 which lies in 23 deg. and ½ North, and passeth through Barbary, In∣dia, China, and Nova Hispania; we making at Twelve at Noon, Latitude 22 deg. 16 min. North, Longitude 8 deg. West, when we must be 1 deg. 14 min. South of the Tropick.

A Guinea Merchant-man bound for the River Gamboa kept us Company hither,* 1.21 but his Voyage requiring a more Easterly Course, was the last Merchant Ship took leave of us.

We holding on still South, the frequent Noise of Thunder, the sultry Rains,* 1.22 quiet Seas in respect of what we had before, were assured tokens of our drawing nigher to that Fountain of Heat, the Sun.

By reason whereof it was familiar to behold, the sportful Fishes greedy of their Prey raise whole Flocks of that Scaly Nation. For those whom Nature has placed in the vast Deep, defenceless of themselves, and innocent to others of a more powerful Greatness, so as many times they become their Prey, she has not altogether left them unprovided; either out of her abhorrency of Idleness, re∣solving every thing should labour for its Belly, or else out of a pe∣culiar respect towards every individual Species for their Preserva∣tion as well as Production;* 1.23 furnishing these with Fins of larger size and double use for swifter conveying them under Water, as also for soaring into the Air when they are too closely pursued. Of these sort we saw good store flying from Bonetos and Albecores, who were hunting them. Some of these flying Fish (for no other Name they have as I can learn) were so put to it, that after often dip∣ping their fishy Wings in the briny Water (without which genuine Artifice they could not use them) chose rather to make our Ship their Sanctuary, than to yield themselves to the Jaws of their devouring Adversaries: By which means you have their more exact Description, they being as large as a River Perch bedeckt with Silver-spangled Scales, and long Fins as before.

Page 5

Not many days after, two of the lesser Off-spring of the great Leviathan, (the Weather being calm, these sort of them else not visible, being of no swift motion) came sailing after us; our Men as eager of them as they of their Prey, hastned their Engines for to take them; which no sooner in the Water, but each of them guided by some half a dozen delicately coloured little Fishes, which for their own safeguard perform the Office of Pilots, (they never offering to satisfy their Hunger on them) who lead them to the Baits; when they turning their Bellies up, seize upon them on their Backs, hook themselves in the Toils, beating the Sea into a Breach, and not without a great many Hands are drawn over the sides of the Ship; which seen by the poor silly little Fishes (as conscious of their Error) they swim to and again, and hardly for∣sake the Ship; but being within Board, the Ship's Company armed with Hatchets presently divide the Spoil.* 1.24 They are not scaly, and therefore imagined to be a kind of Whale, being finned like them, with a great Fin on their Backs near their Tails, (which dried is used instead of a Slate) of a darkish grey Colour on their Backs, lighter on their Sides, and white under their Bellies; their Snout on the same Plain with their Mouths, but their Mouth within that a great way; the cause why they turn their Bellies when they take their Prey. The Mouth of one of them extended, is two Spans wide, armed within with three Tire of sharp pointed Teeth on both Jaws, so piercing that Needles exceed them not, and of such strength that a Leg or an Arm, Bone and all, is but an easy Morsel; wherefore called Sharks by the Seamen, on whom they are bold enough to fasten, and dismember if not shunned when they wash themselves: They are of a rank smell, and not good to eat but by stout Stomachs; of Length they are ten, sometimes fourteen Feet.

By this time we had got into 17 deg. 19 min. North Latitude, Longitude 9 deg. 10 min. West, when our Men of War thinking to birth themselves before us at St. Iago, (where our Ships were permitted to refresh,* 1.25 being otherwise tied up by Charter-party not to put in any where unless for absolute necessity) made all the Sail on head they could.

Our Commanders were well enough content with their proffer, knowing the danger of a many Ships going in there together: The day ensuing plying to the West,* 1.26 we discovered Beunovista bearing full West ten Leagues, but at Noon were within two Leagues of it.

It is one of the Islands of the Gorgades or Cape Verde,* 1.27 because situate over against that Promontory on the Land of Negros.

They are said to be Nine in Number. Beunovista, quasi good sight, it deserving that Appellation from four Hills, which raising themselves to an Eminency above their Fellows, yield a fair Pro∣spect at a distance; but approaching nigher it is not unlike the crawling of a Snake, it's various Hills and Vallies fluctuating as it were, seem to borrow that riggling Shape, the two remotest Moun∣tains figuring her Crown and Head.

Page 6

The View of Beunovista.* 1.28

[illustration]
The succeeding day,* 1.29 South-East of us, we saw the Isle of Maijo, another of the Gorgades, plentiful in nothing more than Salt, whi∣ther our Traders in that Commodity often send Ships to fetch it, which is brought down to them in Barrows blowed by the Wind, they having Sails fitted for that purpose.

The View of the Isle of Maijo.

[illustration]
In two and twenty days from the Lizzard,* 1.30 early in the Morning we were close under St. Iago, another Island of the same Knot; whose interwoven barren Mountains are as impossibly exprest as Stonehing numbred.* 1.31 Towards the South-West they are very high and burnt; but steering to loof about the Bay, we found it empty, and the Men of War missing; for all that we came to an Anchor about ten a Clock in the Forenoon in the Bay of St. Iago.

The View of the Bay of St. Iago.

[illustration]
The Ground was covered with Corral of all sorts,* 1.32 under which it was Sandy of a duskish Colour. Having discovered three Buoys, our Commander sent his Boat to seize on one,* 1.33 which proved to be the Mark to a special good Anchor of 2400 weight, with a Cable seven Inches Diameter; the rest of the Fleet shared the other two. The Bay the Ships rode in was smooth Water, the Wind coming from the Shore; in Figure a Semicircle, in which it might contain four Miles, the weathermost Point bearing South-West, and half a Point West, the other Point to which was an Islet, East and by South, and South.

Page [unnumbered]

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]

  • a. Represents ye young Plant as it appears firstabove ground Spring-ing from ye Nut under ground
  • b. Shews ye shape of ye Tree wth that of its branches new ye tp the un∣der & more ripe being fallen off & leaving the Signes of their rects n ye bark of the Stock
  • c. The shape of ye Branchs wth their stemms & feet as they grow from ye Tree, extending sometimes from ye foot to ye tip to near 5 ½ yards in length fringed or feathered on both sides with long narrow leaves
  • d. The Purse or Sheath containing ye branch of flowers
  • e. The branch of Flowers wch▪ when fallen leaves ye young nutts
  • f. One of the branches grown more ripe
  • g. One of those Nutts full ripe. h. The Coco Nutt shell intire, ye outward Pill or husk being fallen off
  • i. The Roots & blade peircing through ye holes of ye Shell
  • k. The Kernell of ye Nut half ye Shell being taken off
  • l. Represents ye intire tree of an older & longer standing
  • m. Represents ye manner how they fasten a gourd to collect ye liquor

Page [unnumbered]

〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

Page 7

Of the Island of St. Iago, one of the Cape Verde Islands.

IN the Afternoon I went ashore, which was near two Miles from the Ship, where was a convenient watering place, which emp∣tied its fresh Current into the Salt Sea; the Beach was sandy, and easy going ashore.* 1.34 Here met us whole Troops of the Natives with their several Wares, some offering us Cocoes, others Oranges and Limes; some brought Jackanaps's, such green Ones as are com∣monly seen in England to be sold; and all at the price of a cleanly Rag▪ or a Bunch of Ribbons.

Before us in a Valley was a most stately Grove of Cocoes and* 1.35 Oranges (through which ran the Stream our Men filled their Casks with Water) surrounded with a Wall.

The first of which Trees, so much celebrated for its usefulness, deserves as much for the pleasure it affords the Sight. It grows with an upright, tall, and slender Body, the Bark of an Ash colour, lori∣cated; not sending any Branches forth till it come to its chiefest Summit, where it spreads its shady Branches with some resemblance to our Osmond Royal Fern,* 1.36 but more like the Palm; and under these protects its weighty Fruit; which hang very thick round about the Tree, to which it yields but one Stalk, but that fit to support its ponde∣rousness; every Moon produces a fresh Harvest both of Fruit and Boughs; the first being gathered, the others being thrust off when sapless by the young ones: If the Juicy ones be wounded, there distills an heady Liquor, which they preserve in Earthen Pots fitted to re∣ceive it, but that spoils their bearing Nuts. Next to the Stalk it be∣stows a Calix, not differing (only in bigness, and that it is smoother) from that of our Acorn; from which proceeds the Rind of a lighter Green, under which a fibrous substance presents its self, which might supply them with Utensils, for Roaps and Sails; beneath which ap∣pears a spacious brown Shell, proper for many Necessaries, big enough for a Drinking Cup, a Ladle, and many more; serving them for the chief part of their Housholdstuff: Enclosed in this is a deli∣cious Meat, white in Colour, cloathed with a pithy matter, as our Hasle-nuts, and not inferiour to them in Taste; this they chuse for their ordinary Nourishment. Nor does it afford them a less grateful emulsion, contained in the Nut to the quantity of a Pint, or Pint and half; in colour like Whey, and of that consistency, but in re∣lish far excelling.

When the Meat of the Nut grows rancid, they express an Oyl serviceable for their Lamps.

Thus abundantly has Providence furnished them from this one Root. The figure of the Fruit, take it intire, is oval, and as big as the largest Melons.

On the other Fruits it's needless to insist,* 1.37 as Oranges, and the like, being planted nearer home, and therefore not such strangers.

Having observed enough here, we entred a Door which gave us admittance to a Court in the same Valley, whose party Wall made of Mud and Stone, separated it from the Grove.

Page 8

Here lay at the Foot of the ascending Mountain, in a careless po∣sture, one Company of their Militia, raised on this occasion, having rested their Arms,* 1.38 as Muskets, and Pikes, with their Colours of White Silk, with a Green Cross athwart, and the Arms of Portugal in the midst of it, against the Wall, but Breast high; which could not have held up the Pikes, had not some adjoining Trees contribu∣ted to their aid.

They saluted us with the civility of the Hat, and Congeed to the ground; those of them that walked about, had Javelins in their hands, and long Swords tied to their Backs.

Labouring to reach the top of the Mountain,* 1.39 which was very steep, some we met on foot, others mounted on Asses, with Jacka∣naps's behind them, passed us with no small Grandure and Ceremony of the Cap; and which was wonderful, to see them ride these Crea∣tures over Precipices, only Goats and they could clamber on.

At last gaining the highest part, another Wall accosted us, over which a Gate, and upon that a Cross. On the left hand, as soon as we were in, was either a Prison, or a Guard-house. Not many Paces from it, on the same side, a Row of Houses, one Story high, thatcht with the Branches of the Cocoe, and Windows with wooden Shut∣ters, but no Casements, built with Mud and Stone, as all their Build∣ings were which I saw; the insides visible enough, for the biggest of them had not four yards Front, and half that, for the greater state, was taken up by the Door: Their Furniture is answerable to the splen∣dour of their Habitations;* 1.40 but because we will not refuse the Cour∣tesy of their Entertainment, see in what a manner they present us with their Viands.

They invite us with an Hubble-bubble (so called from the noise it makes) a long Reed as brown as a Nut with use, inserted the Body of a Cocoe-shell filled with Water, and a nasty Bole just pressing the Water, they ram Tobacco into it uncut, out of which we may suck as long as we please, but for any thing else they tell us as the Poet did,

Vina mihi non sunt Gazetica, Chia, Falerna, Quaeque Sereptano palmite missa bibas.
Their common Drink being only Water; and their Food as plain, being only the Fruits of the Earth.

But to keep on our way, which here we found easy and plain; on the Right stood another Cross, propped with a four-square Pillar raised on steps,* 1.41 and half a Stone's cast from it, a Chappel, not proud enough to brag of any great elegancy for its Architecture (being but the Rural Seat of one of their Black Padres.) Not much beyond it the Corps de Guard, from whence they supplied their Sentinels, which were placed in a Military Order here and there: Nearer the Water-side, on the brow of the Precipice which overloo'k the Haven, in a well-appointed place, were planted half a dozen small Pieces of Ordnance, which spake Thanks for our respect paid when we came to an Anchor; not far from hence another Guard and House regarding the Main, which gave notice to the rest of what Vessels they saw at Sea.

Page 9

And now we began to think of returning, when we met with some had happen'd to see the glory of the Day; who told us, our Ad∣miral had sent to the Deputy-Governour, residing here, to be certi∣fied about the Anchors; who first claimed those Anchors of our Emissaries with the Majesty essential to that Nation he represented (being a White Portugal) for his Master,* 1.42 being slipped in Port; and then informed them, that they were left there the Afternoon before we came in, by Three great Holland Men of War, who were separated by foulness of Weather, from the Squadron of Admiral Eversdon, who was sent to vex the English Plantations at Virginia: Who at the sight of our Men of War, had put to Sea in great confu∣sion, leaving some of their Crews behind them, who went off in their Shallops, but could not reach their Ships; keeping therefore the Shore on board, they put in at St. Iago Town, where they now re∣main: From whence this Morn by fresh Advice he was assured only six Ships were seen to ply to windward; which must be our Fleet striving to regain the Island, which is difficult by reason of the Trade∣winds,* 1.43 it being beside their Commission to pursue them. Thus being alarm'd to our Ships, that Night we weighed.

In the dusk of the Evening came into this Bay a Sattee of Portugal, laden from Madera with Wine, some of which we purchased, but restored not the Anchors.

The Country without is rocky and mountainous, the Island but small; what Towns it has of note, our small stay would not permit the Enquiry:* 1.44 It is said to be pleasant within the Country; well wa∣tered, and furnished with all things necessary for the life of Man; discovered for the King of Portugal, Anno 1440. Well peopled by the Portugals, and a Colony of their Plantation from Ginea. In respect of the Heavenly Bodies, it lies in North Latitude, 15 deg. 25 min. Longitude from the Lizzard 12 deg. 10 min. West, the length of Days altering very little.

The People are of a comely Black, their Hair frizled, Tall of sta∣ture, cunning and Thievish; they staring one in the Face, and in the mean time cut a Knot from the Shoulder, or steal an Handker∣chief out of the Pocket.

Their Speech is broken Portugal, as also is their Habit, imitating therein the Portugals; though few of them so well clad as to hide their Nakedness so, but that either Leggs, Shoulders and Back may be seen, and in some all. If they get an old Hat with a Bunch of Ribbons, two White Sleeves, a Waistband, or a Coat slasht to hang back to shew their Sleeves, or an old Pair of Long Breeches to their Buttocks; an unsizeable Sword to their Backs, a Javelin in their Hands, without either Hose or Shooes (as if cut out for Sir John Falstaff's Hu∣mour) they shall have them strut,* 1.45 and look as big as the greatest Don in Portugal.

The Women are not so handsome as the Men, Blubber-lipp'd, more corpulent, and shorter; notorious also for their Levity. Their Head geer a Clout rowled up like our Water-bearers; their Backs, and Breasts (which were large, and hanging down) bare, as also to their Wasts, from whence a thin Cloath, in fashion of a Petticoat, down to their Feet, which are bare likewise. Some of the best of them adorn'd with Bracelets about their Arms and Necks, false

Page 10

Jewels in their Ears, with a kind of Vail from their Head to their Knees, with a Close-bodied Coat with Hanging-sleeves.

By Religion they are Christians of the Romish Church.

Their Governour is from Portugal.

Nothing more observable in this little time, but that at Night on Shipboard,* 1.46 we had the sight of De'l Fogo's Flames; it being an Island of Fire, the Smoak of which is also apparent at Noon-day; which is of the same Batch with the rest, we seeing only these Four Islands of the Nine belonging to the Gorgades.

CHAP. II.

Contains our Passage from St. Iago to Johanna, and Rela∣tion of that Island.

THUS forsaking these African Islands, and being forsaken of all but our own Fleet, with a brisk Gale we gave our Ships head to the Eastward of the South; whereby we came nearer to the Coast of Africa; the Northern Monsoons (if I may so say, being the Name imposed by the first Observers, i. e. Motiones) lasting hi∣ther; they (springing from the pressure of the Winter's Snow, Clouds or Vapours lodged on the Artic Mountains,* 1.47 and now beginning to be dissolved) leave us to struggle with those moving with the Sun, between the Tropicks East and West, as those without do North and South, mostly or collaterally to those Cadinal Points. And therefore we are forced to steer more Easterly, either to fetch a Wind to cross the Aequator, or gain a Side-wind from the constant ones to carry us to Brasil. For which cause those Ships bound for St. Helen's from Europe, must come into the Latitude of 28 deg. South, and some∣times to the Cape of good Hope, before they can bend their Course thither, though in a direct Line it would cut off three quarters of the way.

When we were in four degrees of the Line, and Longitude from St. Iago 7 deg. 22 min. East, (renewing thence our Meridian) we became subject to the most parching Heat of the Torrid Zone; whose Effects were so much the more outragious, by as much as the Winds shrank upon us from off the Coast of Ginea (which we drew nigh to) and had left us at a stand, the usual Treatment hereabouts, imputed to the scarcity of Mountains on that vast Tract of ground: Insomuch,* 1.48 that we lay wholly at the mercy of the two unruly Ele∣ments, Fire and Water; the one assailing us with flashy Lightnings, and horrid Noises, breaking forth the Airy Region; the other pour∣ing on us whole Streams of unwholsome and dangerous Flouds, when they fall in Spouts, (which are frequent here:) Nay the kindest and the softest downfal on our Bodies is productive of Vermin, such as Flies, and Maggots, if our Cloaths be not quickly dried and shifted; (these Seasons the Seamen term the Tornados.)

But above all, when these had played their parts, the scorching Sun making towards us with his fiery Face made us almost breath∣less:

Page 11

In this remediless Condition we lay,* 1.49 till Heaven pitying our lan∣guishing under this burning Fever, dispatched to our Relief an East South East Wind, which leading us West and by South, brought us to the South of the Equinoctial Line,* 1.50 depressing our Longitude to 5 deg. 55 min. East. And now we were to the Northward of the Sun four degrees, with whom circling a little East, in nine days time we were in a Perpendicular, whereby our Quadrants became of small use, we not being able to make an Observation for their want of Shade, but by an Astrolabe at Night:* 1.51 The Sun passing over our Heads, and we being to the Southward of the Line, the first fair Wind made us out-sail the Northern Polar Star, it not being to be seen in this Horizon.

Steering now by the Crosiers,* 1.52 a South Constellation, taking its Name from the Similitude of that Pastoral Staff; as also supplied by the Magellanian Clouds, in number Two, (averred to be such by those that use this way continually) fixed as the North Star; but to me they seem no other than a Galaxia, caused by the Reflection of the Stars.

Being to the Southward of the Sun's Declination,* 1.53 it is obvious to note, a North Sun makes the same time of Day a South Sun does on the contrary side.

An Epidemical Distemper, by the Sea-Chyrurgions termed a Calenture (a malignant Fever with a Frenzy, so that if not watch∣ed, they leap into the Sea) raging in the Fleet, many were thrown over-board.

Where the Atlantick (washing the Shores all along from the Streights of Gibraltar) mixes with the Aethiopick Ocean,* 1.54 there the Meridian Compass varies very much, so that the Wind being at South-East and by East, lays out a South and by West way, but cor∣rected by the Magnetick Azimuth (which gives the Sun's Ampli∣tude) it differs two Points and an half, which with Leeway allow'd, makes a South-West Course, which we held on till we were on the Coasts of Brasil, when we were at distance enough to take the Alti∣tude of the Sun, which made 14 deg. 40 m. South Latitude, Longi∣tude 2 deg. 24 min. East.

Being between Brasil and several Islands, as Trinidado, Isl. de Picos, Sancta Maria, &c. we met with Winds carried us to the South of the Tropick of Capricorn,* 1.55 which crosseth Aethiopia Inferior, and the midst of Peruviana.

Before we leave this Ecliptick Circle, we must observe at the Aequator, the Sun becomes twice Perpendicular; at each Tropick but once; beyond them never; because hence may naturally be collected all the Seasons of the whole Year; unless some accidental Cause, as the Interposition of Mountains, Headlands, Lakes, or such like intervene.

But in his Solar Progress Through the twelve Signs, the Sun always carries Rain along with him, its Heat otherwise could not be endured; for which reason, the first Contriver and Former of all things,* 1.56 has ordained the wet Season a Winter to those inhabit here, and to them as dreadful as our cold Seasons to us (which we shall evidence more experimentally when we come to live among them): On this account is it, that under the Line two Winters and two Summers

Page 12

alternately succeed, but not above three quarters of that length as the one at each Tropick, they continuing four Months together; to wit, four Months Winter, as many Summer, and the other four Months moderate or cold Weather; though nearer the Line, the Rule holds not good as to the cool Weather, for that cause more frequently visited with Wet than the Sunshine.

Our Men at length tired with salt Provisions, began to be stu∣dious for fresh; Necessity having taught them an Invention, by counterfeiting those formerly mentioned Flying fish,* 1.57 with a white Rag stuffed to hide the Hook, and Feathers pricked in instead of Fins, to catch their Enemies at their own game, and so they did; providing for themselves and us too, Bonetos and Albicores; the latter bigger than the former, in length two Feet, in thickness one, of a brave shining Colour, with spiked Fins; but the other preferred by the Palate, bearing the make of our Jacks; both of them a good Repast at Sea, where it is denied to be curious in our choice.

The Dolphin is extolled beyond these,* 1.58 which they strike with a Fisgig: They are swift and strait when they swim, and for Compo∣sure surpass all others in neatness, as well as for variety of Colours, for which it seems to vie with the Rain-bow, or Juno's darling Bird, the Peacock.

There is another Fish they call a Stone-Bass,* 1.59 which eats better than it looks, it being of a Colour sandy, but has a Relish equal to our Soles.

Hitherto having kept mostly a South-West Course, furthered in it by Gales from the Coast of Ginea, we are now to expect Westerly Winds to carry us to Cabo da boa esperança;* 1.60 near the Latitude of 30 deg. South we had a promising Fresco, but somewhat dulled by too frequent Calms, yet here not so vexatious as before, we going retrograde with the Sun.

It is observable here,* 1.61 that the Sea had a contrary Course with the Wind, presumed to proceed from its blowing so long in one Quar∣ter; and now not altered so long as to be powerful enough to turn the Current of the Waters.

Gaining upon the East with a slow pace, we met with those fea∣thered Harbingers of the Cape,* 1.62 as Pintado Birds, Mangofaleudos, Albetrosses; the first remarkable for their painted Spots of black and white; the last in that they have great Bodies, yet not pro∣portionable to their Wings, which mete out twice their length.

Three Months being near consumed, we were at last accompa∣nied with long lookt for Western Blasts, and now we fly afore the Wind: But by the way take notice a South-West Wind becomes as bleak here, as a North-East in England. So that all the Seasons of the Year being undergone in this time, we may begin to calculate our Ephemeris afresh; and as a fit Platform, Easter Holy-days bring with them such Weather as is essential to Christide.

But bidding Adieu to these Fancies, the Wind that till now seemed to dally, proves in good earnest, and begins a frowning April, driving the trembling Sea on heaps, and on them piling more, till the swelling Surges menace the lowering Skies, leaving a Hollow where they borrowed their Gigantine vastness, as if they were

Page 13

intended to exenterate the Treasures of the Deep. At top of which 'twas dreadful to behold the angry Surface of the foaming Billows,* 1.63 descending down beneath no less uncomfortable, when the Vans of the next Ships (though groveling with a neighbouring Wave) could not be discerned.

This tossing Condition lasted long, and was taken kindly too, as long as we spooned before the Sea, and kept from running foul of one the other; but when a Fret of Wind rowled the Waves athwart our Quarters, it made our Ship shake, proving the sound∣ness of her Sides, where had she given way never so little, we must have sunk without Bail or Mainprize. Still the Tempest encreases, and brings with it Gusts of Rain and dismal darksome Weather, whereby we were separated from the rest of our Fleet: For all, we put our Lights abroad as did they, yet in the badness of the Night we lost them, and were left alone to shift with the boisterous Winds.

At last the Morn appears,* 1.64 but with the Symptoms of a blowing Day. She had not wafted many Hours, but on the advantage of a rising Wave, we spied a Sail to Leeward with her Fore-top-mast by the Board, which at Noon we knew to be the Caesar crowding under all its Sails.

In this Encounter we shipped many a perilous Sea, (not with∣out being well-drenched our selves): Such was the force of this Nights Storm, that our Boat, and some of our Men, were not without difficulty restrained from being carried over-board. In this pickle we reeled out this Day, and out-stretching the Caesar, we made what Sail we durst, and by the next Light had sight of our Fleet, who shortning Sail, we came up with them, to whom we declared the misfortune of the Caesar, and that it bore South-West; wherefore they lay by, (the Wind slackning) and in half an hour we saw the Hull, and presently after it made up our Company compleat again.

Near the middle of this Month we could have made that known Cape, the Cape of Good Hope,* 1.65 being in the Latitude of 36 deg. 14 min. South, and Longitude from St. Iago 37 deg. 19 min. East. But the Dutch having some Forts there, it was thought no good Policy; wherefore veering to the South, the Cape bore East-North-East, some thirty Leagues off us; for heaving our Dipsy-lead we were in soundings eighty Fathom depth, which the Pilots note to be in that distance.

Here we made two Sail to Leeward, and one to Windward, who directed her Course with us; but the Wind from the Shore coming East, they Tacked, and she passed without speaking to her: But the Leeward-most came up boldly to us and the Ann (we be∣ing the nearest and ready to receive them);* 1.66 but making them En∣lish built by their Galleries, we only shewed them our Colours (which they answered by St. George's Cross) and fired a Gun; when they brought to, and we bearing up, our Commander went Aboard one of them, the Johanna, a Ship of 700 Tuns laden from Bantam, who told us, That five more were in Company with them from the Coasts, but dispersed by Tempests; the other Ship was the Bernardiston; that which escaped us, the Rebecca.

Page 14

They also inform'd us, The French had worsted the Flemmings in India, taken and demolished a Fort on the Island Ceilon; and that they had beat the Moors out of St. Thomas: That on our side never a Ship was lost, as they heard. So likewise giving them an Account of what we knew, with some Instructions communicated on both sides, we left them to take their Course, which served them for St. Hellens, the Antartick Monsoons favouring them directly thi∣ther, and the Squadron under Captain Munday, if they have raised the South Latitude of 28. may be there a little before to expect them.

We kept on South-East, till we had doubled the most Southern Promontory of the Cape, Cape de Angullis, (which Course would lead us to Bantam) when bending to the North, we held on till we came betwixt St.* 1.67 Lawrence or Madigascar, and the Main, reckoned one of the four biggest Islands in the World, viz. Sumatra, Java, St. Lawrence and Britannia. The most traded Empories here, are St. Augustine on the Island, and Mosambique on the Main; frequent∣ed by the Portugals for Elephants Teeth, Gold, Camphire, and Ambergreece. Why we creep in between this Island and the Main, Is to borrow from the Land-briezes assistance against the general stated Winds settled for these Months between the Cape and this Island.

The Sea here takes the Name of Oceanus Orientalis,* 1.68 beginning from the Cape till it joyn with the Indian, Red, and Arabian Seas.

Here it was we had a notable Fish stretched its self along our sides for the space of an hour: Some called it a Grampos; but those that pretended skill, would have it a young Whale: It might be in length forty Feet and upward, bolting out of the Water with a great Surf; the Mouth large, but not responsible to so large a Body, the Form whereof was a Pyramid inverted, the Basis of which from Gill to Gill near five Feet in breadth, the Conus termi∣nating with a narrow Snout; where his Mouth opening, he suckt in a huge quantity of Water, and with that same eddy his Prey, which he retains within his Jaws, but spouts the Water out with the same spurting noise our Engines make, and as immense an heighth from an hole in his Neck, opening after the fashion of a Mouth or Slit; at the performance of which Action it contracts its self into an Orbicular Figure, and again dilates its self in its Diastole: The Back is of a dark Gray without Scales,* 1.69 sixteen Feet over, leaping as other Fishes, but in a more Majestick manner, moving but slowly, whereby we had the sight of his Head and Neck first, (all one Rock, and as impenetrable, it being proof against the Prongs of the sharpest Harping-Iron); his whisking Tail last, near which a ridge of Fins, the true mark of Distinction for a Whale: The extreme part of his Tail extended is very broad and finny, which is the Rudder to this great Leviathan, wherewith, and two Fins more proceeding one from each side, he guides himself through his watery Territories.

May had now began,* 1.70 when making after that glorious Charioteer, the Sun, we were once more spirited with milder Weather; the Mariners casting off their wet Cloaths, cared not for any more than would slightly cover them.

Page 15

We being in sight of five Small Islands off St. Lawrence, for fear of the Tides driving them on shore,* 1.71 some of our Ships anchored; by which lingring we lost two of our Companions for two days; but we steering something West, and lying by a-nights to prevent falling on St. Christophers and Juan de Novo, both Low Lands, they had time to reach us: Being becalmed, it was the middle of the Month before we lost sight of St. Lawrence.

The day after we had Meoty on our Larboard Bow, bearing North-East 20 Miles, High Land.

The View of Meoty.

[illustration]
At Night we had sight of Mohelia,* 1.72 Johanna, and Meoty to∣gether.

The View of Mohelia.

[illustration]
* 1.73

The View of Johanna.

[illustration]
* 1.74 * 1.75

The History of Jehanna.

THE Morning following we came under the Westward part of Johanna,* 1.76 where opposed us a lofty Ridge of Mountains, one of which advanceth its aspiring Head up to the towring Clouds: Over against which lies the Island called Mohelia, at the same di∣stance Calice is from Dover; the better Island of the Two, though not so big, nor quite so Mountainous; it being more plentifully,

Page 16

as 'tis said, stored with Provisions; but not furnished with so safe an Harbour for Ships as Johanna: The only difficulty here being the Weathering the Point, in which, notwithstanding several Ships have been driven off to Sea, not being able to recover the Island again, the Winds descending in desperate Gusts drive them into the Trade∣winds, which here commence again. But our Ships were blest with better success, and came all safe to Anchor under a Lee-shore, which sufficiently protected them from the Winds by the highth of the Mountains. A Blessing not to be passed by without a grateful Com∣memoration, when half the Fleet were disabled by Distempers ac∣quired by Salt Meats, and a long Voyage without Refreshments; and must have suffered too for want of Water, had not they met with a seasonable Recruit.

The first care then was to send the Sick Men ashore,* 1.77 which it is incredible to relate how strangely they revived in so short a time, by feeding on Oranges and Fresh Limes, and the very smell of the Earth; for those that were carried from the Ships in Cradles, and looked upon as desperate, in a days time could take up their Beds and walk; only minding to fetch them anights, that the Misty Vapours might not hinder the kind Operation begun on their tainted Mass of Blood, by these Specifick Medicines of Nature's own preparing.

We had Leisure now joined to Security of the Dutch,* 1.78 for that no Ships from India can readily return this way into Europe at this time of the Year; and the Hollanders, after having touched at the Cape, usually go first to Batavia, before they coast India; which gave us free leave to dedicate our selves to all the Pleasure this Place could afford; which for its Excellencies may deserve to be called Happy, as well as any the Ancients bestowed the Name of For∣tunate, Macaria or Foelix on. It lies in 12 deg. South Latitude, Lon∣gitude 62 deg. 4 min. It is one of the Islands of Africa, though lying in the Eastern Sea; yet because the Coasts of Africa extend themselves to the Line on this North side of the Cape, we must take these Adjacent Isles in the same Account: On the South-East lies Meoty, North-West Mohelia, and North-East Comero, all Four Co∣lonies of the Moors or Arabians, or at least in subjection to them.

But to return to Johanna;* 1.79 the innermost part we suppose to be fruitful, by what the Verge of it declares; for to be satisfied in that Point would be hardly worth the while, the Mountains requiring more pains to conquer than would quit cost, they being altogether inaccessible, or their Passages unknown to us.

The Relation therefore to be expected,* 1.80 must be of that lies lowest and nearest the Sea. The Circuit I imagine to be almost an 100 Miles, all along which, it is variously cast into Hills, and furrowed into Vales; as it Nature had plowed them on purpose for encrease. The outwat Coat of which is embroidered with Thamarind Palmetto (from the Tree distills a Wine intoxicating, and an Oil medicinable, externally applied to Bruises, Strains, &c.) It yields also some store of Pine Apples, Ananas, growing on Shrubs like Arti∣chokes.* 1.81 But above all, there is a Tree famed for being 14 Fathom compass, it resembles most a small Ivy Leaf; the Body seems to be many smaller incorporated into one huge one, of no other use than to be admired, Hederâ formosior albâ, unless in opposition to the

Page 17

Heathen, who adore it, they throw the Dead Bodies of their Slaves under it, when Justice is executed on them, to expose them for Ter∣rour to others, many Bones of Humane Bodies lying there at this time. There is also a Gourd esteemed of them more for the large Shell than Meat; it will hold a Pailful, in Figure like a Man's Head, and therefore called a Calabash.

Rivers they have not many,* 1.82 but Rivulets good store; and of such Water, that next our Thames, it is the best, which is justly prefer∣red, (I mean our Thames Water) because it bears a Body beyond others, and therefore kept till the last to be spent, always reserving a stock thereof to serve them home; for though it stink like Pud∣dle-water when opened first, and have a Scum on it like Oil (which the Coopers affirm they are as cautious to strike with their Adds on the Cask for fear of taking fire, as of Brandy it self) yet let it stand unbunged on the Deck twenty four hours, it recovers its goodness, and is the only Water they rely on in an East-India Voyage, and therefore they are careful to save it till the last.

Towns some few they are Masters of, but for Sumptuous Fabricks none will be found here.

Their Chiefest Town bears the Name of the Island,* 1.83 which is seated along the Strand, under an high Hill; on one side refreshed with a gentle gliding Stream; on the other side recreated with a fine Plain, prodigal of its Fertility. The Town it self is to look on, an heap of Ruins, nothing remaining but the Marks of former Industry (pro∣bably the Portugals) here being left Walls of an huge thickness, composed of Stone, and cemented with Lime: To every House a Portal, but miserably defaced with Age; the Planks of their Doors sewed together, their Buildings not exceeding one Story; against these, Laziness has suggested them to lean their Flaggy Mansions: Flags especially in their Villages (by them called Cajans, being Co-Coe-tree Branches) upheld with some few Sticks, supplying both Sides and Covering to their Cottages. They commonly order their Model so, as to make a Quadrangle with only one Entrance, all the rest being closed outwards without any Windows; in which every House of Note on the Right-hand has a shady Contrivance, like the Walks to our Tennis-Courts, but not so long; on the upper end of which sits the Master of the Family on a Bed of Rattans, a kind of Cane: Here he, with the Steward of his House, are observed by his Slaves (who stand aloof) to spend the heat of the day.

Among these,* 1.84 but at some remoteness from any of their Dwel∣lings, are two Mosques, or places for Devotion, built after the manner of our Churches (but for Magnificence much like their other Structures) with Isles and Naves walled up to the very top; within them only a place left for entrance at the West end. They are de∣cently Matted on the Floor, though not hung so much as with a Cobweb on the Walls; which they keep (and in that to be com∣mended) very clean. In the Piatzos (for such their Porches had) stands on the Right-hand a square Stone Cistern, full of Water; and the whole without any Doors always open. The Nobler of the Two has at the West-end a round Tower, not very high; to this like∣wise belongs a more spacious Yard, filled with Tombs reared Man's heighth, covering them with a falling Ledge atop, leaving open a

Page 18

Port-hole at the North-end, where the Head lies, for a Lamp: To inrich them, they are bestuck with China Ware of good value.

Having given you the Description thus far,* 1.85 I must crave leave for my Error, in not giving it the Style of Regal before now: For it proves to be the Seat of one of their Kings, which I had almost forgot, had not my greedy Eye espied a House more eminently seated, and more decently covered than the rest, but the Materials not much different; only they have allotted him a little more Air to breath forth his swelling Title, King of Johannah Town. Where∣fore after a small Enquiry, it was manifest it was the Palace Royal; nor did I much doubt it, after we had gained admission; where did sit the King in state, at the upper end of such a Place as before was taken notice of, on a Cott, or Bed, strewed with a Quilt. On a Bench at each Elbow were placed two of his Nobles by him: We being introduced, instead of Kissing his Majesty's Hand, he took us one after another most graciously by the Fist, and by the Mouth of his Interpreter pronounced us heartily welcome, and bad us take our Seats according to our Qualities; which, after we had put our Hats on, we did; and the Interpreter with great Respect took his on the Floor crouching in the midst of us. In this manner, without shew of dread or fear of being misconstrued, we talked freely of matters re∣lating to both our States; as he first examining if we had any Gun∣powder or Compass-Glasses to spare him? We seconded his Demands with what regarded Provisions for our Voyage; for which License our Captains are obliged to make him Presents of Scarlet-cloth, and other Europe Rarities, that they may unmolested buy the Bullocks, Cows, Goats and Hens of his Subjects. Both being at length out of Discourse, or not very well understanding one another, he speaking Arabick, we as good English as we could; we had liberty in this in∣terval to survey the Gorgeousness of his Attire. On his Head he wore a large White Turbat, and had as good a White Shirt on his Back; from his Girdle half way his Legs, a Blue Silk Vest fringed with Purple, without Shooes or Stockins to his Feet, which he often pulling up into his Cott or Couch, would smilingly cross them, and with his Nails claw off the Dirt. By him lay a Purple Silk Robe, attended with a Black-guard of some a Dozen Slaves; compared with whom he looked great, and was a comely well Limb'd Person, though a Woolly-pated Coffery.

His Nobles (because we are not to meet with many of them) pray take them in their best Liveries.* 1.86 On their Crowns they wear Caps of Arabian Needle-work intermixed with divers Colours; which notwithstanding no bigger than Skull-caps, they move not to the best Man in the Company; it being their Custom only to Salam, giving a bow with their Hands across their Breasts: Their Bodies clad in White also; about their Loins Cloth of Arabia, Chec∣quered as our Barbers Aprons, but not so good (pace tantorum vi∣rorum) over all a thin Robe; both King and Princes encourage their Beards to their full growth.

Their Priests,* 1.87 one of which attended, are habited in fashion not much different, had not the Colour inclined to Black; and on their Heads a Leather Coif lined with Fur.

Page 19

When we took our leaves, we Presented him and his Peers with a few Brass Rings with False Stones,* 1.88 with which they seemed to be well pleased.

What Towns they have of Note we could not learn;* 1.89 but Towns they have, if not Cities, within the Country. And certain it is, their Chief Governour is an Arabian Lord.

This Johanna Town is about Three quarters of a Mile in length, and may contain Two hundred Houses; their Streets being no broader than our Allies.

Villages are very thick,* 1.90 and Cottages disperst in every place.

Every Valley makes a delightful Grove, one of which exceeding all the rest, was cooled with two dainty Currents, decked with a continual Spring, charming the Senses with the real Sweets of any the most exquisitely feigned Paradises; to see Limes grow on Shrubs, Leafed and Thorned like our Crabs, Oranges, (of which there is a pleasing sort, though small, not giving place to our China ones) tempting the Sight from a more exalted, and less suspicious Tree. Over which the lofty Cocoes with unparallel'd straitness stretch forth their Boughs, disposed in Ranks, as if ordered by the Skilful∣lest Planter.

Lower than these, but with a Leaf far broader, stands the Curi∣ous Plantan, loading its tender Body with a Fruit, whose Clusters emulate the Grapes of Canaan, which burthened two Mens Shoulders; below which, an odoriferous Plant seizes the Smell; and winding through its subtile Meanders, revives the Faculties of the Brain: Here the flourishing Papaw (in Taste like our Melons, and as big, but growing on a Tree leafed like our Fig-tree), Citrons, Limons, and many more, contend to indulge the Taste; the warbling Birds the Ear; and all things, as if that general Curse were exempted, strive to gratify the Life of Man.

Neither has Nature so played the Wanton here,* 1.91 as to be unmind∣ful of the Ascending Hills, which in other places by chance are pro∣ductive, but here they abound, and liberally bestow on the humble Valleys: Notwithstanding the Clime it is situate under, bears the reproach of that uninhabitable Zone; yet that Aspersion is blown off by those admirably tempered Breizes off the Mountains.

The Inhabitants are black,* 1.92 though not so black as at St. Iago, as well Limb'd, and as well Featur'd; neither so tall, nor so proud as they, but more honest: Whether out of fear of Punishment, or na∣tural Integrity, may be left to conjecture: For our Fleet lying as now at an Anchor, some years passed, they filched some slight things from the English; as likewise some Sailers from them; the Grievances on both sides known, and the Parties detected. Our Commanders had their Men slashed publickly on Shore, when they cut the Throats of theirs.

To proceed; They are like the Country they live in, innocent; for as the one produces nothing hurtful, so they have always had the Character of being harmless. They are courteous to Strangers, but above all to the English; punctual in their Words, and as ready to tax for breach of Promise: Lazy above measure, despising all Mechanical Arts; and in them Necessity compels them to employing their Priests; as in building Boats, making Mats. Yet in one thing

Page 20

to be wondred at, for making Old Iron, which they covet mightily, into Knives, or Tools, as sharp as Raisors; in other things rude∣ly imitating, but not deserving the name of Artists.

The while we were there, they had a great Vessel on the Stocks; Stocks like the Checks to our Long Boats; the Keel of it was a whole Tree, no otherwise fitted than it grew, only the Branches lopped off. To it, for Stem and Stern, were fastened two others, shorter; on both sides Planks sewed to the main Timbers, with the Thread of the Cocoe-nut, each Hole stopped with Pitch. Thus had they raised it to the capacity of Thirty Tuns: When it will be finished, at the rate they work, will be hard to guess.

They are Owners of several small Provoes,* 1.93 of the same make, and Canooses, cut out of one intire piece of Wood; poised with Booms to keep them from over-setting; in these they paddle with broad Sticks, not row as we with Oars.

They are very active at Climbing,* 1.94 Running like Jackanapes up their Cocoe-nut Trees, which they do by twisting a Band to keep close their Feet, as they raise their Bodies by their Arms grasped about the Trees.

They are not solicitous for much to cover them, only a Clout to hide their shame, trust with a String round about their Waists, in which they stick their Knives, in a readiness to cut down their Food from the Trees.

Their Slaves have a dejected Countenance,* 1.95 distinguished by bore∣ing their Ears: They sit on Stones, or low Seats, their Arms folded like Monkies.

However,* 1.96 they are not so abject, but that they have the use of Letters, and some science in Astrology, by what I can testify: For walking the Country, and almost tired, I stept into an House, where I saw a Man writing with a Pen made of a Cane, in the bottom of a Bowl besmeared over with black; considering a-while, at length I observed he made Arabian Characters, and aimed to draw a Scheme, which when he had done, he poured Water upon, and stirring it round with his Finger, wiped it out again, and as he did this, mut∣tered seriously to himself, doing so thrice. I watched what he intend∣ed, and found that a Woman lay sick there, and this Charm was her Physick.

Besides this,* 1.97 I have it on report from some that saw their Schools for Education of their Youth, where they teach them to write, and by Bundles of Characters tied together to Ape Printing. What they make their Impression on, I cannot inform you; but Paper is no despicable Commodity among them.

That Arabick is their Speech,* 1.98 is without contradiction; with what purity I am no competent Judge.

The Religion among them is Mahometism;* 1.99 their Priests not so much exercised in Learning, as the Labour of their Hands.

Their Women are fat and short,* 1.100 not so big Breasted as those at St. Iago, better clad than the Men, wearing a course Sheet about them from their Breasts below their Knees; about their Heads they wear an Hairlace, or somewhat instead of it, not to tie their Hair up, which is short enough; but it may be, as our Dames in England, to keep the Wrinkles out of their Foreheads: In their Ears Mock-Jewels;

Page 21

about their Necks and Wrists trifling Bracelets of Beads, Glass, or Wire of Brass; about the small of their Legs Brass Chains, and on their Fingers Rings of the same Metal. Seemingly fearful of a White Man, as are their Children, who are much troubled with the Navel-Rupture (Hernia umbilicalis),* 1.101 either from the Windiness of their Food, or Ignorance of their Midwives in cutting the Navel-string, when they design to make the Boys good measure; which succeeds in these, for their Penis is of the larger shape. The Wives are very obsequious to their Husbands, seldom stirring abroad, doing the Drudgeries of the House.

They dress Fowls very well,* 1.102 but kill them very barbarously, pul∣ling first their Feathers off to the Wings, then by degrees raise the Skin, after which Torture they as slowly cut their Throats, till they have finished a short Litany, which is the Priest's Office, if at hand; otherwise the Good Man of the House says Grace; they butchering their Goats in as Jewish a manner.

Their usual Diet is the Fruits of the Earth,* 1.103 not caring much for Flesh, though they have great store of Pullen, Goats, and Kine; which last but small, and not very good Meat, their Fat cleaving to the roof of the mouth; not so big as our Welsh Beasts, yet have this peculiar, a Bunch of Fat betwixt their Shoulders, which eaten tastes like Marrow.

Their Pasture,* 1.104 for want of Agriculture, rather Reeds than Grass; they have Rice in the Low-lands, and a Pease called Garavance: On the Sand near the Sea grows semper vivum maximum, from whose Juice comes Aloes, the best from Succotra: Here grows Cow-Itch in abundance, and all sorts of Saunders, which the Seamen cut for firing to bring aboard.* 1.105 Destitute of Asses, Mules, and Horses, but that want compensated by a richer Commodity, Ambergreece, for which the Arabian is the greatest Merchant and Sharer.

Fowls for Game they have several,* 1.106 the best of which is the Guinney Hen, Turtle Doves; Crows with white Breasts, Buzzards, and Bats bodied like and near as big as a Weasel, with large Wings wove upon strong Gristles.

They have a sort of a Jackanape they call a Budgee,* 1.107 the hand∣somest I ever saw.

Honey and Mullasses they have good store.

Having thus taken a Survey of them,* 1.108 one would think Ambition banished hence, and that Discord should have little countenance from Subjects so alike contemptible. Such is the growth of that Seed, that no Ground comes amiss to it: Here, where neither Care nor Toil is burthensome, are they vexed with continual War by their opposite Neighbour the Mohelian, whom formerly they used to engage on Planks at Sea, casting Stones and Darts; since, by a better Instinct, they have provided themselves of securer Vessels, and as at this time devising greater, they adventure with better force, and in shrewder Battels, beginning to enquire after Swords and Guns, with the first of which the English do supply them: For which, and a former Courtesy of a Vessel sent them to land some Men on the Enemies Coasts, proceeds their more than ordinary love for the English.

Page 22

How these behave themselves in War, or with what Discipline, is not in me to tell: Some Marks of their Valour many of them bear about them, as the Badges of their greatest Honour, who have their Limbs distorted, or Flesh beaten in. What the ground of these Feuds are, we cannot learn; unless the bad Influence of some malignant Planet, or else that Make-bate of the world, whose great∣est business is Contention, should insinuate it into them. The Ara∣bian Lords of each do strive to reconcile them; which if they do for a time, it breaks out again in open War: And probable it is, that these Animosities have rendred them liable to the Subjection they are now in; whose very Islands else, with an united Force of Stones and Arms to bear them, were able to defend them.

Four days being spent in this sweet Wilderness,* 1.109 our Admiral by firing a Gun, and loosing his Fore-top-sail, summoned us aboard.

CHAP. III.

Declares our Course from Johanna, to our landing at Mechlapatan.

A Fresh Gale and a fair Wind soon set us once more to the Nor∣ward of the Equinoctial,* 1.110 accompanied with soaking Showers, Thunder, and Cloudy Weather, which with the continuance of the Winds did us a kindness; for following the heels of the Sun, we were got within Twelve Degrees of him, when we sailed into the Indian Sea, East North-East, the Maldive Islands being South-East, the Red Sea West North-West, and the Arabian North by West, with∣out labouring under that irresistible Heat we did before; by reason of which adjunct Heat, the Rains however became intemperate; not but that they mitigated the Heat in actu, tho as to its effects, it proved more virulent, impregnating the Air with a diseased Consti∣tution, whereupon we had many hung down their Heads.

About the third Degree of North-Latitude we lost sight of the Magellanian Clouds and the Crociers,* 1.111 and raised our Northern Polar Director.

Having 8 deg.* 1.112 53 min. North Latitude, we left the Sun to run his Race to the North; and steering East to raise our Longitude, we fell into a Channel between the Maldivae (a Concatenation of Islands from the Equator hither, and here only parted by this Chan∣nel, the rest of them lying scatteredly to the 10th deg. of North La∣titude) which makes us lye by a-nights, (signified by One Light out of the Main-Top of our Admiral (which he always carries at Night), and another out of the middle Lanthorn on the Poop, an∣swered by all the rest with one at the same place), for fear of fal∣ling foul of them, the Weather continuing wet, dark, and tem∣pestuous.

After which we shaped our Course East South-East,* 1.113 when the Ad∣miral fired a Gun, spreading St. George's Flag in the Mizen-shrowds for a Consultation, knowing we began to draw near Ceilon, an Island

Page 23

in the East-India,* 1.114 divided from Cape Cory by Ptlomy, Comory by our Modern Authors, by a narrow, swift, and unnavigable Current, where the Flemings have nested themselves in the Portugals Castles at Co∣lumbo, Point de Gaul, and elsewhere; so that if at all, we are to meet with them hereabouts, they commonly having a Fleet of Ships in these Seas: We out of necessity are forced to make this Land, and were it peaceable Times should sail all along in sight of it, till we came upon the Coast of Cormandel.

Wherefore our Commander returning on board, after assigning every one his Post, to be ready on any surprize, he found a Chear∣fulness in all to obey him.

Here two Whales,* 1.115 bigger than the former, shewed themselves.

In the dead of the night a lamentable Outcry was caused by some of our Men on the Forecastle, who looking out thought they had seen a Rock, with which these Seas abound, whereupon they cried out, A Breach, a Breach; which made the Mates leap out of their Cabins with the same grisly Look as if going to give up their last Accounts: Here was Doomsday in its right Colours, Distraction, Horror, and Amazement had seized on all, one commanding this, another acting quite contrary; the Breach surrounding us, every one expected the fatal stroke, when the Ship should be dashed in pieces. In this Pa∣nick Fear, had any had so much heart as to have ventured a Compo∣sition for his empty Noddle by looking over-board, he might have discovered the Jig: For at length it was evident that only a Chorus of Porpoises had taken the Sea in their Dance; which Morris once over, the Seas were quiet, and our Men left to repose themselves with a shorter Nap than they thought themselves like to have.

Five days after our Summer Solstice we had soundings 14 Fathom, and at break of day had sight of Ceilon, when we altered our Course to East North-East; it bore from us North by West 12 Leagues, the out-Land low, but rarely enriched with Woods of Cinamon, from whence only it is brought.

The View of Ceilon.

[illustration]
This is the first Shore presented its self in India:* 1.116 The Inland hath a Prospect over the Sea: It lies in North Latitude 6 deg. 3 min. and Longitude from Johanna 37 deg. 10 min. East.

This is the Island where (if true) the Elephants are bred,* 1.117 who, transported, exact Homage from all Elephants of other places, and they withal, by prostrating (as it were) their Necks between their Feet, submissively acknowledge it.

At Nights we stood off to Sea to escape the insidious Rocks,* 1.118 a-days we made for the Land, to gain the Land Breizes, which are not felt far off at Sea, by reason of the Constancy of the Trade-Winds: They begin about Midnight, and hold till Noon, and are by the Por∣tugals named Terrhenoes; more North they are more strong, and hardly give way to the Sea-Breizes, which sometimes succeed the others twelve hours, but not always on this Coast.

Page 24

Two Days passed after we made Land, we discovered three Coun∣try Junks a-head, and coming up with them we commanded their Skippers on board;* 1.119 examining their Cockets, they produced Eng∣lish Passes, the Masters of two of them being Portugals, the other a Moor, from whom was taken a Packet of Dutch Letters: Their Crew were all Moors (by which Word hereafter must be meant those of the Mahometan Faith), apparell'd all in white, on their Heads white Scull-caps, their Complexions tawny: Their Junks had three Masts, wearing an East-India strip'd Ancient, and might con∣tain an 100 Tuns apiece.

They managed their Sails but aukwardly, and are unskilful in Maritime Affairs; wherefore in any long Voyage they employ Eu∣ropeans to navigate their Vessels.

Coasting along,* 1.120 some Cattamarans (Logs lashed to that advantage that they waft off all their Goods, only having a Sail in the midst, and Paddles to guide them) made after us, but our Ships having fresh way, we were unwilling to tarry for them; besides, at that in∣stant we espied under the Shore a mighty Vessel, with her Yards and Top-masts lower'd; but they continuing to follow us, the Anne lay by for one of them, who affirmed that a Fleet of 24 Sail of Bata∣vians were passed to retake St. Thomas▪ from the French. The East-India Merchant and Antelope by this were up with Vessel under shore, who proved to be a great Junk of the Moors: Overagainst where she rode, a fair Pagod or Temple of the Gentus, beleaguer'd with a Grove of Trees (excepting that it was open towards the Sea) cast a Lustre bright and splendid, the Sun reverberating against its refulgent Spire, which was crowned with a Globe white as Alabaster, of the same tincture with the whole.

Nearer the Point we descried a Town,* 1.121 in which a Castle over∣awing it, and upon the highest Pinacle Dutch Colours, which high Noon gave us to be Sandraslapatan, a Factory of theirs, our Staff having as much as together with the Sun's declination made 11 deg. 50 min. North Latitude, but 10 Leagues to the South of Fort St. George, where our Commanders were to touch first, according to their Charter-Party.

Whereupon we put abroad our Jacks,* 1.122 Ancients, and Penants, and running out all our Guns, it was unanimously consented to fight our way through the Flemish East-Indians, had we not seen a Mussoola hailing our Admiral, which came off with Advice from the Agent: This Afternoon therefore we lay by, the Admiral calling a Council aboard him; and at night our Mercury was waited on towards the Shore by the Bombaim: All this while we lay in sight of Sandrasla∣patan, whose Soil is Fat and Opulent, like their Netherlands.

The View of Sandraslapatan.

[illustration]
The Water here ran smooth and discoloured:* 1.123 Till once again committing our selves to the Sea,* 1.124 we ploughed deeper Water, North-East, of a Caerulean dye.

Page 25

The next day we saw a French Man of War, and he us, but would not trust us.* 1.125 We knew him to be French by our Intelligencer, who laid us out his Station, where he had encountred five Batavians, and discomfited them.

This Day's observation made 30 m.* 1.126 to the North of Fort St. George. We were beating now against the Wind (which blows fiercely from the Shore) and a strong Current, which had set us 14 deg. 20 min. North in three days time, when the Junks we compelled with us hi∣ther, had the liberty to make the best of their way for the Bay of Bengala; for which the Winds served them well enough, though full in our Teeth, who laboured for the Land.

However,* 1.127 in four days time we met with the Freshes off the Shore caused by the Upland Rains: The Sea despising to defile its purer Azure with their Muddy Green. The same Antipathy was held be∣twixt the lively Fishes and their slimy Brood, they intermixing with such unfriendly Concord; for playing in whole Shoals about the Edges, they would not exceed the Limits the jarring Torrents had won upon each other. So the fierce Tigris in his swift Career ne∣glects the scorned Arethusa, and she with the like disdain retaliates his unkindness, neither Stream mixing either Fish or Water.

Thus quartering this Sublunary Globe,* 1.128 out of Europe into Africa, from thence cruising on the Coast of Brasil upon the American Seas, till joining with the Ethiopick, we double the Cape of good Hope into Africa again, at last we came in sight of the Asian Shores; and the latter end of June we cast Anchor in Mechlapatan Road; which was composed of Shoals and Deeps, where we found three Portugal Ships riding.

Our Fleet expressed their joy by the roaring of the wide-mouth'd Cannon, and the sounding of the shriller Trumpets; which the Eng∣lish Factory, welcomed by displaying their Flag (being allowed no Ordnance, but what they privily plant for their own security) as being under the Tutelage of the Natives, as also are the Portugals and Flemmings (who each have here their Staples) so in like man∣ner all they have any Commerce with: No Act of Hostility, ei∣ther on Shore, or in the Road, being tollerated without leave first obtained; those on Shore being the Pledges forfeited on the breach of Peace.

[illustration]

Mechlapatan.

Dierepoint.* 1.129

The firm Land was plain and nothing elevated beyond the Trees, unless Edifices of the European erection.

Page 26

CHAP. IV.

Takes up our stay at Mechlapatan, to our Landing at Fort St. George.

THE next Morning the Second of the Factory (the Chief) being at Fort St. George,* 1.130 visited the Admiral, and ordered the Treasure to be set on Shore.

That if the empty Hollander should be so hardy as to face us, their small hopes of Plunder might abate their Courage; which otherwise might tempt them to attack us with the greater vi∣gour.

The Boat-men that came for it were of a Sun-burnt Black,* 1.131 with long black Hair, tied up in a Clout of Calicut Lawn, girt about the Middle with a Sash, in their Ears Rings of Gold; those that were bare-headed, were shorn all to one Lock, which carelesly twisted up (some have foolishly conceited) to be left for Perimel (one of their Prophets) to hold fast by when he should haul them to Heaven; but more truly to preserve them from the Plica Polo∣nica, which attends long Hair not cleanly kept, and to which these People are incident.

Among these,* 1.132 some more modish than the rest, as going in a Garb more Civil, Coiling Calicut about their Heads, Turbat fashion, on their Bodies light Vests, underneath long loose Breeches, and swadled about the Waist with a Sash; offered their Service for a small Pension, to execute our Affairs on Shore, or wait on us Aboard.

These spake English, and acquainted us, how the French had set fire to four Vessels of the Moors, and made Prize of four more, as they were in this Road not two Months ago; that they had con∣strained some Dutch Factories to run on score to supply their wants with Victuals, and other Necessaries; whose Credit, by these Emergencies, and their Cash failing, begins to sink: Money be∣ing here not only the Nerves and Sinews, but the Life it self of Trade.

Being sent for on Shore by the desire of the Factory,* 1.133 by one of the Country Boats, I was landed at Mechlapatan: These Boats are as large as one of our Ware-Barges, and almost of that Mould, sailing with one Sail like them, but padling with Paddles instead of Spreads, and carry a great Burthen with little trouble; outliving either Ship or English Skiff over the Bar. Which by the rapid motion of the Waves driving the Sands into an Head, makes a noise as deafning as the Cataracts of Nile, and not seldom as difficult a Downfal. Over this the Land shuts us up on both sides, and the stiller Waters con∣tentedly do part their Streams to embrace the Town.

Near which a Fort or Blockade (if it merit to be called so) made of Dirt,* 1.134 hides half a score great Guns; under the command of which several Moors Junks ride at Anchor. A Bow-shot from whence the Town it self, environed with a Mud Wall, entrenched with a stink∣ing

Page 27

Moras,* 1.135 and at some time Moated with the Sea, creates a spa∣cious Prospect; it is of Form oblong.

Their Bank Solls,* 1.136 or Custom-House Keys, where they land, are Two; but mean, and shut only with ordinary Gates at Night.

The High-streets are broad, set forth with high and lofty Build∣ings, the Materials Wood and Plaister, beautified without with fold∣ing Windows, made of Wood, and lattised with Rattans, entring into Balconies shaded by large Sheds covered with Tiles: Within a Square Court, to which a stately Gatehouse makes a Passage, in the middle whereof a Tank vaulted, with a flat Roof above, and on it Terras Walks are framed, the one to wash in, in the heat of the day; the other to take the Air in the cool of the day; the whole Fabrick intire within its self, covered atop Taber-like.

The poorer, of which multitudes are interspersed, both in their High-streets and Allies, are thatched, cast round as Bee Hives, and walled with Mud; which in the Summers drought often take fire, and lay the taller equal with the ground.

For publick Structures their principal Streets present sundry Mosques,* 1.137 one Custom-house, one Court of Judicature, and that but mean.

For Places of resort there are three Buzzars, or Market-places, crowded both with People and Commodities.

On the North-East a Wooden Bridge,* 1.138 half a Mile long, leading to the Bar Town; on the North-West one, a Mile Long, tending to the English Garden, and up the Country. Each of which have a Gate-house, and a strong Watch at the beginning, next the Town: Both these are laid over a Sandy Marsh, where Droves of People are always thronging.

The present Incumbents are the Moors, Persians, Gentiles; So∣journers Armenians, (who maintain their Correspondence over Land) Portugals, Dutch and English; and some few French.

For the Story of it,* 1.139 and with it of the Kingdom; the Gentues, the Portugal Idiom for Gentiles, are the Aborigines, who enjoyed their freedom, till the Moors or Scythian Tartars (whether mediately from Persia, or immediately from that overflow of Tamerlane into these Parts, is not material, since they both pretend to the same Ex∣tract, and that will be fitter declared in another place) undermi∣ning them, took advantage of their Civil Commotions. For one Caff or Tribe (by the Chief of which they were ruled) clashing with another, overturned all; which that we may the better un∣derstand,

These Tribes were distinguished by their Occupations,* 1.140 espousing therefore Vocations as well as Kindred; and thereby, as one was a more honourable Calling than the other, so they stood upon their Nobility in that Imployment, never marrying out of it.

As the Head were the Brachmines, the Ancient Gymnosophists; out of whom branched their Priests, Physicians, and their Learned Men.

Next in esteem were the Rashwaws, Rashpoots, or Souldiers.

But the most insolent were the Artificers;* 1.141 as the Engravers, Re∣finers, Goldsmiths, Carpenters, and the like; who behaved them∣selves not only disrespectfully to their Superiours, but tyrannically to

Page 28

those of a viler Rank; as the Husbandmen and Labourers. Whereupon they jointly conspired their Ruin, and with that their own Slavery; ta∣king the Moors to their assistance, who not only reduced the Usurpers to Composition, which was, That they should be accounted the Off∣scum of the People, and as base as the Holencores (whom they ac∣count so, because they Defile themselves by eating any thing, and do all servile Offices) and not be permitted to ride in a Palenkeen at their Festivals or Nuptials, but on Horseback, which they count an high Disgrace; but they also took the Power into their own hand; which though Despotical, the Gentus endure, rather than endeavour the re∣covery of their former Liberty, and to subvert it from a Monarchy into an Aristocracy.

Their King reigning is a Moor, raised to the Throne from the lowest ebb of Fortune.

For it being in the breast of the Regent to appoint his Successor,* 1.142 his Predecessor, on defect of his own Children, raised him; by the practice of Siegmanjaffa, his Chief Eunuch (who are made in this Kingdom the prime Ministers of State) partly to strengthen his own Interest by ingratiating with the Heir Apparent, and partly out of gratitude to the Young man's Father, a Great Man, and of the Bloud-Royal, who, when alive, was the promoter of Siegmanjaffa: This same Prince of the Chias, or Sophian Extract, was raked out of the Embers of Oblivion.

Where you must note,* 1.143 That though his Father expired a Blazing Comet in the Court, yet at the death of any Nobleman, his Wealth falls all into the King's hands; whereby this poor Gentleman for a long time lived an obscure and miserable Life, no one taking his word for the Victuals he put into his Belly: But upon the old King's importunity for one to sway the Scepter after him of his own Line, Siegmanjaffa urged him; and placed him poor and lean as he was, where the King might see him, but not he the King.

At first the King rejected him, as having no promising look; still Siegmanjaffa interceded, and desired his Lord to allow him like a Gentleman, and see to what use he would expend his Money: Which condescended to, a Brachmin (who are become the Farmers of the King's Rents) was dispatched to offer him the Loan of Mo∣ney, which he willingly accepted of, and therewith put himself into an handsome Equipage, both for Apparel and Attendants (which specious Shews recommend here more than profoundness of parts) and withal Fed and Whored (which is a great point of Manhood) as well as the best of them. Wherefore after a short time he was again brought into the King's Presence, who now began to have some hopes of him; and therefore to try him farther, he gave him a con∣stant supply of Money; and bad Siegmanjaffa put him on some lau∣dable Enterprize in his Army, of which Siegmanjaffa was General; which he undertook with much Alacrity, and behaved himself with that Gallantry, that at length the Old King sent him a Tipstaff with a Royal Robe, requiring him to come to Court in one of the King's own Palenkeens: At which he was dismay'd, Saying he should never return to his House again.

However, by Siegmanjaffa's encouragement he apparelled him∣self, and rode on the King's Palenkeen: His Jealousy was grounded

Page 29

on a barbarous Custom of the Eastern Monarchs, who when any Subject becomes suspected, send them alike honourable Presents with those in Favour,* 1.144 which in their receit only shall testify to the World the King's Displeasure, though they whom they are designed for, live not to know the cause, being poysoned by them before they can plead for themselves. But he was assured no ill Intentions were to∣wards him when speaking with the King face to face, he declared him his Successor to the Crown, which not long after he was esta∣blished in by the Death of his Master.

His Residence is at Gulconda,* 1.145 the Metropolis, and bearing the Name of the Kingdom, fifteen days journey West from hence.

Under him Siegmanjaffa orders the whole Realm, amassing great Treasures (though he himself pays Homage to the Great Mogul) exacting every Man's Estate when he pleases, mulcting them at his own Will, squeezing the common People to perfect Penury: Be∣sides the Reversions of Great Mens Estates, he has large Revenues from his Diamond Mines, which he lets out yearly to those bid most.

His Expences are inconsiderable,* 1.146 his Subjects in their distinct Pro∣vinces maintaining his Soldiers, of whom he has a standing Army of an Hundred thousand Horse and Foot, when all together; besides Two hundred Elephants in continual readiness, which are provided for by the Farmers of his Revenues.

All that he consumes is on his Voluptuousness, with which he is swallowed up.

The Kingdom of Gulconda extends from 10 deg.* 1.147 North Latitude, to 19 deg. ½ along the Coasts of Coromandel, and up into the Coun∣try Three hundred Course (which is a Mile and a quarter) though in some places thinly inhabited.

The next in Dignity to Siegmanjaffa,* 1.148 is the Governor of Mechla patan, an Eunuch also, and a Slave to Siegmanjaffa, who came through the Town. while we were here, waited on by a Noble Train, besides Soldiers and Followers; having an Elephant led before his Palenkeen, which none presume to do, unless the King honour them therewith; nor to ride on any but Females, unless of the Royal Family, who may only mount a Male to ride in State through their Cities. His Substitute here is a Chias Moor, who takes charge of the Stores every Night.

Over the Gentues they keep a strict hand, entrusting them with no Place of Concern, using them as Mechanicks and Servitors, to few of them attributing the Title of Merchants; though in this Town of Moors and Persians there are many Owners of good Trading Vessels.

The Persians have planted themselves here through the Intercourse of Traffick as well as Arms,* 1.149 being all of them at their first coming, low in Condition; but inspired by the Court-Favour, and making one of their own Nation always their Executors, they arrive to Pre∣ferment. Nor are any of these so exempted when they grow too rich, to be deplumated by the same hand.

Their way of living is truly Noble,* 1.150 having a Retinue which be∣speaks their Greatness as they rise in Fortune or the King's Grace.

Page 30

Magnaque est Comitum aemulatio quibus primus ad Principem locus, & Principum cui acerrimi & plurimi Comites. Haec dignitas, hae vi∣res, magno semper electorum juvenum globo circumdari; in pace decus, in bello praeidium. Each contending to have the most numerous and handsomest Fellows for Attendance; their Pride at home, and abroad their Safeguard.

However,* 1.151 for the English Honour be it spoke, none of them sur∣pass the Grandeur of our East-India Company, who not only com∣mand, but oblige their utmost Respect; none of their Servants shew∣ing themselves in Publick without a Company answerable to theirs, and exceeding them in Civility of Garb and Manners. When the Chief made his Entry at his Return from the Fort, it was very Pom∣pous, all the Merchants of Esteem going to meet him with loud Indian Musick and Led-Horses: Before his Palenkeen an Horse of State, and two St. George's Banners, with English Trumpeters; after him the Factors on Horseback, and lusty Fellows running by their sides with Arundells, (which are broad Umbrelloes held over their heads,) Soldiers and Spear-men Two hundred at least, and after these a Row of Palenkeens belonging to English and other Merchants.

At Meals their Domesticks wait on them with Obeisance suitable to great Potentates,* 1.152 enclosing their Tables, which are strewed libe∣rally with Dainties served up in Plate of China; Nam nulla aconita bibuntur fictilibus, says Juvenal, which crack when poysoned; which whether true or false (since it is so much practised in this Coun∣try by way of Revenge) is but a necessary Caution by all means to avoid.

They fan the Air with Peacocks Tails set in huge Silver Handles, and chiefly now, because the busy Flies would cover the Table, were they not beaten off. Abroad shading their heads with broad Tar∣gets held over their heads; washing and rubbing them in their Tanks; wanting in no Office may render them acceptable to their Masters.

But not to detract from the Inhabitants,* 1.153 their Solemnities are ve∣ry Courtly, commonly performed by Night with the noise of Drum, Shawm, and Fife; especially at their Weddings, when the meanest (excepting those protested against) of the Gentues must not be denied his Week's Jollity in a Palenkeen, and a Guard of Targets, Swords, and Javelins, and others bearing the Ensigns denoting the Honour of their Tribe. If any of the subjected Tribes (as they count them) assume the Honour (though the Governor connive) they fall together by the ears, and drag him shamefully by the Hair of the Head to the place he first set forth.

They are array'd in White Vests,* 1.154 girt with Sashes, small Turbats on their Heads, long Breeches to their Heels; the Gentues barefoot mostly; The Moors and Persians shod with Sandals, and over their Shoulders a Silk Mantle of what colour they fancy.

The English keep their fashion, though cloathed in white: The Armenians like the Inhabitants.

The Moors are very grave and haughty in their demeanor,* 1.155 not vouchsafing to return an Answer by a Slave, but by a Deubash, who is the Interpreter. Their chiefest Delight and Pride is to be seen

Page 31

smoking Tobacco cross-legg'd in a great Chair at their doors, out of a long Brass Pipe adapted to a large Crystal Hubble-bubble, fixed in a Brass Frame, their Menial Servants surrounding them.

All of this Robe's way of Salute is by lifting their Hand to their Head, except the Armenians, who move their Turbats as we our Hats.

The Moors are by Nature plagued with Jealousy,* 1.156 cloistring their Wives up, and sequestring them the sight of any besides the Tapon that watches them. When they go abroad, they are carried in close Palenkeens, which if a Man offer to unvail it is present death; the meanest of them not permitting their Women to stir out uncovered; of whom they are allowed as many as they can keep.

Their Matches are contrived by their Parents when young;* 1.157 at Seven Years the Son being taken from the Mother, the Sister from the Brother, and not a Father, though Fourscore and ten, suffered the Interview of his Daughter; every Dwelling having Apartments allotted for this Confinement.

The Gentues observe not that strictness,* 1.158 both Sexes enjoying the open Air. Their Women are manacled with Chains of Silver (or Fetters rather) and hung with Ear-rings of Gold and Jewels, their Noses stretch'd with weighty Jewels, on their Toes Rings of Gold, about their Waste a painted Clout, over their Shoulders they cast a Mantle; their Hair tied behind their Head (which both in Men and Women is naturally very long); a-top a Coronet of Gold beset with Stones; compleatly bodied, and so flexible, that they are excellent Dancers, and good at Feats of Activity: I having seen them hold Nine Gilded Balls in play with their Hands and Feet, and the Muscles of their Arms and Legs, a long time together without let∣ting them fall: They are clearer complexion'd than the Men.

As for their dealing in the World,* 1.159 they are well skill'd, and will arithmetize the nicest Fractions without the help of Pen or Ink; much given to Traffick, and intelligent in the way of Merchandize, if not fraudulent; having an accomplishment in the Art of Staining Calicuts here beyond any other place in the East-Indies (for that they are upon washing rather clearer and livelier than at first, and this is it that makes this Port so much frequented) which is paint∣ed with the Pencil by little Children as well as elder grown, they stretching the Pieces on the ground, and sitting upon them, run them over with a dexterity and exactness peculiar to themselves.

They are all of them of Disposition timerous,* 1.160 so that Twenty four English-Men armed kept the Bank-Solls against them on a late Demur; and thereupon at the coming in of our Ships they were all packing up to be gone, notwithstanding 200000 Souls receive here their daily Sustenance: And as Tyrannous when they get the uppermost; an instance whereof the Occasion of this Demur pre∣sents: For our Factory protecting one of the English Nation from their Fury, who too incautiously had to deal with some of their Wo∣men, they set a De-Roy on the Factory (which is a Prohibition in the King's Name for any one to have any thing to do with them till that be taken off) whereby they were debarred Wood and Water, and all other Necessaries, till they had their Revenge on the Aggres∣sor, which terminated not till Death had expiated the Fact: For ha∣ving

Page 32

intrapped him by deluding Speeches into their merciless Power, they cut him in pieces before the Factory Gate: Whereupon the English drew out some Field-Pieces, and scowred the Streets, when they fled and left the Bank-Solls to their possession, which were not resigned till the De-Roy was taken off, which was not done till within a little of our Arrival; when the thing being fresh, and thinking us not only able by such a Fleet to demand Satisfaction, but resolved so to do, they were all shifting for themselves: According to the true nature of Cowards, who when Peril is far from them, strike all with Lightning; but when it appears on equal terms, pre∣sently discover the wonted Paleness of an unsound Virtue.

Of Complexion the Gentues are blacker than the Moors,* 1.161 the Moors than the Persians.

Their executing of Justice in Capital Cases is sudden,* 1.162 either cut∣ting them in pieces (which for Murder is always begun by the next Relation, who must be both Prosecutor and Executioner, and then seconded by the Rabble) or Impaling them on Stakes.

The punishing of their Great Ones, because not in force in our Western Empires, may deserve to be mentioned.

Upon an Offence they are sent by the King's Order,* 1.163 and commit∣ted to a place called the Post (from the Punishment inflicted), where the Master of the Post is acquainted with the heinousness of the Crime; which being understood, he heightens by a Drink, which at first they refuse, made of Bung (the Juice of the intoxicating sort of Hemp), and being mingled with Dutry (the deadliest sort of Solaium, or Nightshade) named Post, after a Week's taking, they crave more than ever they nauseated. Ad illorum vicem qui de∣gustato Sardonum graminum succo feruntur in morte ridere; making them foolishly mad. Then are they brought into the Inner Lodg∣ings of the House, in which Folding Doors open upon delicious Gar∣dens, where Apes and Cats, Dogs and Monkeys are their Attendants, with whom they maintain their Dialogues, exercising over them their Humour of an Assassin, Usurper, Miser, or what their Genius led them to, whilst themselves. After this manner are they impri∣son'd during the King's Pleasure, or he order their Cure, to restore them to their Senses again; which otherwise, after their Spirits are tired by a restless Appetite of doing, and in the mean time have not a suitable recruit, they linger by a lasting Leanness into the Shades, which alive they represented.

As for their Law-Disputes,* 1.164 they are soon ended; the Governor hearing, and the Cadi or Judge determining every Morning.

Religions of all Inventions are licens'd. The Moors are Mahome∣tans of the Arabian Sect: The Persians as much deluded by Mortis Ali or Hali, accused therefore of Heresy by the Moors. The Na∣tives are Idolaters worshiping many Penates or Houshold-Gods, yea, the Devil too for fear: Yet they acknowledge but One Supreme God; and the various Representations or Shapes adored, are but so many different Attributes. After every day's Devotion they dawb their Forheads with Paint, and as Principles of Zeal, abominate eat∣ing with any, unless of their own Cast, when they strip and wash themselves before Meals.

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They have a due command of their Appetite both as to Time and the Matter they feed on, to wit, Roots, Herbs, Rice, and Cutchery, all manner of Fruits, but nothing that has had Life, or likely to pro∣duce Vital Heat, as Eggs, which they will not eat; but they will drink Milk and boil'd Butter, which they call Ghe.

For their Easements both Men and Women keep a set hour, and go with every one a purifying Pot in their hand (for to take up Wa∣ter to wash after their occasions) to some Publick Tank or Pond; the Men apart from the Women; neither of them concerned for Passengers, keeping their back-sides towards them till they have done their Business.

Among them all it is common to make water sitting, as when they evacuate the other way; and it is a shame for any one to be seen to do otherwise, they sarcastically saying, Such a one pisses like a Dog (which is held unclean) standing.

Their Doctors of Divinity are the Brachmins,* 1.165 who instruct them in their Law, to preserve all Creatures that are beneficial, and teach them the old Pythagorean 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, Transmigration of Souls out of one body into another; as a Tyrant into a Tygre, a Cove∣tous Man or Cruel into a Boar, a fearful Man into an Hare, and so on: If they see a Tree twined about with another (as most Bind-Weeds will), they tell you that in this life, when Human, the Soul got into that Tree was a Debtor to the other, and therefore it is held fast by the other. The Soul of a Good Man is believed to depart into a Cow, wherefore 'tis Sacrilege with them to kill a Cow or a Calf; but highly piacular to shoot a Kite, dedicated to the Brach∣mins, for which Money will hardly pacify.

Their Religious Worship consists most in washing and purifyings;* 1.166 more of which hereafter.

They marry very young,* 1.167 not knowing their Wives though till at riper years they come to consummate their Hymeneal Rites.

Their Language they call generally Gentu:* 1.168 They write on the Leaf of a Cocoe with a sharp Iron Instrument. The peculiar Name of their Speech is Telinga.* 1.169

[illustration]

The Mahometans bury their dead;* 1.170 the Gentues burn them; and in the Husband's Flames the Wife offers her self a Sacrifice to his Manes, or else she shaves and turns Whore for a Livelihood, none of her Friends looking upon her; hers, not her Husband's Acquaintance, thrusting her upon it; to which end they give her Dutry; when half mad she throws her self into the Fire, and they ready with great Logs keep her in his Funeral Pile.

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The Armenians are settled here on account of Trade (whose Hi∣story is reserved for a fitter place); they are Christians of a separate Communion.* 1.171

The Portugals, of the Romish Church.

The English, of the Orthodox Episcopacy.

The Dutch, most Calvinists.

The Coin current here is a Pagod,* 1.172 8 s.; Dollar, 4 s. 6 d.; Rupee, 2 s. 3 d.; Cash, 1 d. ½; a Cash ¼.

Staple Commodities are Calicuts white and painted, Palempores, Carpets, Tea; Diamonds of both Rocks, the Old and New; Escre∣tores, and other Knick-knacks for Ladies, because far-fetch'd and dear-bought.

Beasts they have,* 1.173 Wild Lions, Leopards, Bears, Boars, Tygers, Antelopes, Spotted Deer.

For Service, Oxen, Buffola's, Camels, Asses which they use for burthen, to carry Packs, Water in great Leathern Sacks about the Town for every Family, and any other Slavery: But their Horses, which are small and hot-mettled, they put to no such drudgery, but use them with all the kindness and fair speeches imaginable.

With these (without disparagement to that Image God has stamp'd on that Enchiridion of his Handywork,* 1.174 Man) we might recite the Coolies, Duties, and Palenkeen Boys; by the very Hea∣thens esteemed a degenerate Offspring of the Holencores; and in earnest (excepting the Shape) they come nigh to Brutes. These are the Machines they journey by: On the Shoulders of the Coolies they load their Provant, and what Moveables necessary. The Du∣ties march like Furies, with their lighted Mussals in their hands (they are Pots filled with Oyl in an Iron Hoop, like our Beacons, and set on fire by stinking Rags). Ambling after these a great pace, the Palenkeen-Boys support them; four of them, two at each end of a Bambo, which is a long hollow Cane, thick, light, and strong, arched in the middle (which is done in Cases while it is growing), where hangs the Palenkeen, as big as an ordinary Couch, broad enough to tumble in; cieled with Silk, and Bosses pendent to raise withal, and others at each Corner, as our Coaches have; un∣derneath it is laced with strong broad Girts, over which a Quilt, Skin of a Tyger, or Hide to lye upon, and round Pillows of Silk or Velvet, to bolster their Heads. At every Angle turn'd Staves, and overspreading it a Scarlet Coverlet of London Cloath.

A Set of these Rascals, who are eight, in a Week's time with this Load shall run down their choicest Horses; and bait them gene∣rously shall stage it a Month together.

For War,* 1.175 Elephants: For to eat, Sheep, poor, fleeced rather with Hair than Wool, their Aspect bewraying as much Goat as Sheep: Goats; Hogs low and black, unclean to the Mahometans: Cows, sacred to the Gentues, as Serapis to the Egyptians; Conies, Hares.

Reptiles,* 1.176 Snakes, Serpents, the Amphisbena and other kinds; all which they pretend to charm, carrying them up and down in Baskets to get Money of the People, as well as Strangers; when they strike up on a Reed run through a Cocoa-Shell, which makes a noise some∣thing like our Bag-Pipes, and the subtle Creatures will listen to the Musick, and observe a Motion correspondent to the Tune; a Gene∣ration

Page 35

of Vipers that well deserve to be stiled so, knowing when the Charmer charms wisely.

Fowls of all sort belonging to India are plenty,* 1.177 but chiefly tame Geese.

Fishes in abundance,* 1.178 from whence the Town derives its Etymo∣logy, Mechlapatan signifying the Fish-Town.

For Corn,* 1.179 they have Rice the Staff of the Land, some Wheat.

Fruits to variety.* 1.180

The Water they drink they dig for;* 1.181 not that they are without Rivers, but they are brackish. It lies in 15 deg. North Lat. 40 min. From the Lizzard 96 deg. East. By reason of the Multitude of Peo∣ple and ill Site it is unhealthy; though it agree with the Natives, who live to a good Old Age.

The English for that cause, only at the time of shipping, remove to Medapollon, where they have a wholsome Seat Forty Miles more North.

Rain they have none from November to May,* 1.182 all which time the Land Breezes (which blow one half the day off the Sea, but faint∣ly the other) torment them with a suffocating Heat; so that the Birds of the Air as they fly, often drop down dead, the Wind co∣ming as hot as the Steam from an Oven, by the reflecting of the Sun upon the Sands, which are huried about the Marshes. When they feel themselves freest from Sickness, though all Perspiration through the Pores by Sweat is dried up: From the beginning of May they are refreshed with cooling Showers, which at length with the overflowing Sea cause an Inu dation; in which space, the Air growing foggy, Empyema's and Fluxes are rifest; and Swarms of Ants, Muskeetoes, Flies, and stinking Chints, Cimices, &c. breed and infest them: This Season we experimented; which though moderately warm, yet our Bodies broke out into small fiery Pimples (a sign of a prevailing Crasis) augmented by Muskeetoe-Bites, and Chinces rai∣sing Blisters on us.

To arm themselves against this Plague, those that live here have fine Calicut-Lawn thrown over their Beds, which though white as Snow when put on, shall be in an hour besmear'd all over, which might be tolerable, did not their daring Buzzes continually alarm, and sometimes more sensibly provoke, though cloath'd with long Breeches to their Toes, and Mufflers on their Hands and Face, and a Servant to keep them from them with a Fan, without which there is no sleeping.

Notwithstanding these provisions, yet there is another Insect more disturbing than these, and not to be escaped but by this Device, and that is the Ant, which creeps up to all their Quarters, and between their Beds, if the Bed-Posts were not set in Pans of Water to hin∣der their Progress. Chinces stick among the Cotton, and in rotten Posts, whose bitings wheal most sadly, and if they strive to take a Revenge for that abuse, and chance to squeeze them, they leave a stink enough to choak them.

The Air so bad here,* 1.183 that it agrees with few new Comers; removing Three Miles up the Countrey it is an infallible Cure for the Diseases of this place, provided it be done in time:

Page 36

Where the English have a Garden for Divertisement; where also is a Burial-place graced with Monuments both of Antique and Mo∣dern Workmanship.

Half a Mile beyond,* 1.184 a Dozen of the King's Elephants are stabled. When we came they were feeding out of their Houses on Sugar-Canes fresh gathered and administred by their Keepers: Alighting from our Palenkeens, they loosed one which was Fourteen Feet high, and the Black clawing his Poll with an Iron Engine, he stooped down for him to get up, and being upon his Back guided him as he listed. His Body is a Symetrical Deformity (if I may so say); the Hanches and Quarters clapt together seem so many heaps; his Neck short, flapping Ears like Scates, little-Eye'd, a broad Face, from which drops his Proboscis or Trunk, thrusting it out, or shriveling it in, as he chuses; through its Hollow he sucks his Liquor, and with two Fingers, as it were, reaches the Fodder, shaking off the dirt against his Thigh, or Vermin, such as Mice, which he abhors, he brings it under to his Mouth, from whence proceed two huge Tusks of Ivory for Defence, not Mastication, for which he is supplied with∣in with others; his Tail is curt: He shuffles an end a great Pace, moving all the Joints of his Legs, though the Motion of his Hinder-Legs imitate Human Progression, having a Patella or Knee-Pan afore, not articulated behind as other four-footed Beasts are. When he stands, his Legs appear so many Columns scollop'd at bottom, being flat-hoof'd.

The She's have their Paps under their Bowels afore, as Laurentius truly relates.

Their Modesty in ingendring has given matter for dispute, though doubtless they perform it after the manner of other Beasts. They are of a Mouse-Colour. With their Trunks they strike a violent Blow, and are taught to sling Iron Links, to the destruction of their Enemies. That they draw their weighty Cannon is certain; but that they engage with smaller on their Back, I am no Eye-Witness.

After a Month's Stay here,* 1.185 a Patamar (a Foot-Post) from Fort St. George, made us sensible of the Dutch being gone from thence to Ceilon: The Treasure was reshipped, and we in less than a Week, through contrary Monsoons and Ill Weather (the Sun being in his Zenith, and encountring the Dog-Star over our heads) arrived there.

When sliding by four French Men of War at Anchor under St. Tho∣mas (of whom the Admiral the Brittoon was a Ship of 1200 Tuns, 68 Brass Guns; the second had 50 Brass Guns; the other two were less; and the Platform of the City mounted with Brass Pieces, that slung their Shot an incredible way), we against all probability found the Massenberg there,* 1.186 having ventured alone, and but the day before us came into the Road under our Fort; there also rode two Portugal Junks. The Colours the Fort shewed us, was St. George's Flag; it bore from us one League West, Low-Land: St. Thomas one League and an half South-West, High-Land behind it; North Lat. 12 deg. 30 min. Long. from the Lizard 96 deg. East.

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[illustration]

Page 37

CHAP. V.

Gives a true Narrative of the English,* 1.187 French and Dutch on the Coast of Coromandel, continuing till we double the Cape for the Coast of Malabar.

I Went ashore in a Mussoola, a Boat wherein ten Men paddle, the two aftermost of whom are the Steers-men, using their Paddles instead of a Rudder: The Boat is not strengthned with Knee-Timber, as ours are; the bended Planks are sowed together with Rope-yarn of the Cocoe, and calked with Dammar, (a sort of Rosin taken out of the Sea) so artificially, that it yields to every Ambitious Surf, other∣wise we could not get ashore, the Bar knocking in pieces all that are inflexible: Moving towards the Shore, we left St. Thomas, which lies but Three Miles to the South of Maderas,* 1.188 and Fort St. George; in the midway Maderas River in great Rains opens its Mouth into the Sea; having first saluted the Banks of Fort St. George on the West: Towards the Sea the Sand is cast up into a Rampire, from whence the fluid Artillery discharges it self upon us, and we on the Shoulders of the Blacks must force our way through it.

Though we landed wet, the Sand was scalding hot, which made me recollect my steps,* 1.189 and hasten to the Fort. As it looked on the Water, it appeared a Place of good force. The Outwork is walled with Stone a good heighth, thick enough to blunt a Cannon-bullet, kept by half a dozen Ordnance at each side the Water-gate, besides an Halfmoon of Fire-Guns. At both Points are mounted twelve Guns eying the Sea, Maderas, and St. Thomas; under these in a Line stand Pallisadoes, reaching from the Wall to the Sea; and hedge in at least a Mile of ground.* 1.190 On the South side they have cut a Ditch a sufficient depth and breadth to prevent scaling the Wall, which is a quarter of a Mile in length afore it meets with a third Point or Ba∣stion, facing St. Thomas, and the adjacent Fields; who suffer a De∣luge when the Rains descend the Hills. From this Point to the Fourth, where are lodged a Dozen Guns more that grin upon Ma∣deras, runs no Wall, but what the Inhabitants compile for their Gardens and Houses planted all along the River parallel with that, that braces the Sea. From the first Point a Curtain is drawn with a Parapet; beneath it are two Gates, and Sally Ports to each for to enter Maderas; over the Gates five Guns run out their Muzzels, and two more within them on the Ground.

Over all these the Fort it self lifts up its Four Turrets,* 1.191 every Point of which is loaded with Ten Guns alike: On the South-East Point is fixed the Standard; the Forms of the Bastions are Square, send∣ing forth Curtains fringed with Battlements from one to the other; in whose Interstitiums whole Culverin are traversed. The Gover∣nor's House in the middle overlooks all, slanting diagonally with the Court. Entring the Garrison at the Out-gate towards the Sea, a Path of broad polished Stones spreads the way to pass the Second

Page 38

Guard into the Fort at an humble Gate; opposite to this, one more stately fronts the High-street; on both sides thereof is a Court of Guard, from whence, for every day's Duty, are taken Two hundred Men: There being in pay for the Honourable East India Company of English and Portuguez 700. reckoning the Montrosses and Gun∣ners.

The Streets are sweet and clean,* 1.192 ranked with fine Mansions, of no extraordininary Height (because a Garrison-Town) though Beauty, which they conciliate, by the Battlements and Tarras Walks on every House, and Rows of Trees before their Doors, whose Italian Porticos make no ordinary conveyance into their Houses, built with Brick and Stone.

Edifices of common note are none,* 1.193 except a small Chappel the Portugals are admitted to say Mass in.

Take the Town in its exact proportion, and it is Oblong.

The true Possessors of it are the English,* 1.194 instated therein by one of their Naiks, or Prince of the Gentues, 90 years ago, 40 years before their total subjection to the Moors; who likewise have since ratified it by a Patent from Gulconda, only paying 7000 Pagods yearly for Royalties and Customs, that raises the Mony fourfold to the Company;* 1.195 whose Agent here is Sir William Langham, a Gentle∣man of Indefatigable Industry and Worth. He is Superintendent over all the Factories on the Coast of Coromandel, as far as the Bay of Bengala, and up Huygly River (which is one of the Falls of Ganges) Viz. Fort St. George alias Maderas, Pettipolee, Mechlapatan, Gun∣dore, Medapllon, Balisore, Bengala, Huygly, Castle Buzzar, Pattanaw. He has his Mint, and Privilege of Coining; the Country Stamp is only a Fanam, which is 3 d. of Gold; and their Cash, twenty of which go to a Fanam. Moreover he has his Justiciaries; to give Sentence, but not on Life and Death to the King's Liege People of England; though over the rest they may. His Personal Guard con∣sists of 3 or 400 Blacks; besides a Band of 1500 Men ready on Sum∣mons: He never goes abroad without Fifes, Drums, Trumpets, and a Flag with two Balls in a Red Field; accompanied with his Council and Factors on Horseback, with their Ladies in Palenkeens.

The English here are Protestants,* 1.196 the Portugals Papists, who have their several Orders of Fryers; who, to give them their due, com∣pass Sea and Land to make Proselytes, many of the Natives being brought in by them.

The number of English here may amount to Three hundred;* 1.197 of Portuguez as many Thousand, who made Fort St. George their Re∣fuge, when they were routed from St. Thomas by the Moors about ten years past, and have ever since lived under protection of the English.

Thus have you the Limits and Condition of the English Town: Let us now pass the Pale to the Heathen Town, only parted by a wide Parrade, which is used for a Buzzar, or Mercate-place.

Page 39

Maderas

THEN divides it self into divers Long Streets,* 1.198 and they are checquered by as many transverse. It enjoys some Choultries for Places of Justice;* 1.199 one Exchange, one Pagod, contained in a square Stone-wall; wherein are a number of Chappels (if they may be comprehended under that Classis most of them resembling ra∣ther Monuments for the Dead, than Places of Devotion for the Li∣ving) one for every Tribe; not under one Roof, but distinctly se∣parate, though altogether, they bear the name of one intire Pagoda. The Work is inimitably durable, the biggest closed up with Arches continually shut, as where is supposed to be hid their Mammon of Unrighteousness, (they burying their Estates here when they dye, by the persuasion of their Priests, towards their viaticum for another State) admitting neither Light nor Air, more than what the Lamps, always burning, are by open Funnels above suffered to ventilate: By which Custom they seem to keep alive that Opinion of Plato, in such a Revolution to return into the World again, after their Trans∣migration, according to the Merits of their former living. Those of a minuter dimension were open, supported by slender straight and round Pillars, plain and uniform up to the top, where some Hiero∣glyphical Portraicture lends its assistance to the Roof, flat, with Stones laid along like Planks upon our Rafters. On the Walls of good Sculpture were obscene Images, where Aretine might have furnished his Fancy for his Bawdy Postures: The Floor is stoned, they are of no great altitude; stinking most egregiously of the Oyl they waste in their Lamps, and besmear their Beastly Gods with: Their outsides shew Workmanship and Cost enough, wrought round with monstrous Effigies; so that oleum & operam perdere, Pains and Cost to no purpose, may not improperly be applied to them. Their Gates are commonly the highest of the Work, the others concluding in shorter Piles.

Near the outside of the Town the English Golgotha,* 1.200 or Place of Sculls, presents variety of Tombs, Walks and Sepulchres; which latter, as they stand in a Line, are an open Cloyster; but succinctly and precisely a Quadragone with Hemispherical Aparti∣tions; on each side adorned with Battlements to the abutment of every Angle, who bear up a Coronal Arch, on whose Vertex a Globe is rivited by an Iron Wedge sprouting into a Branch; paved under∣neath with a great Black Stone, whereon is engraved the Name of the Party interred. The Buildings of less note are Low and Decent; the Town is walled with Mud, and Bulwarks for Watch-places for the English Peons; only on that side the Sea washes it, and the Fort meets it. On the North are two great Gates of Brick, and one on the West, where they wade over the River to the Washermens Town.

Its Map renders it a Trapezium by an Oblique Stroke of the River on that Corner, and another next the Sea, thus.

Page 40

[illustration]

The Figure of Maderas.* 1.201

Without the Town grows their Rice, which is nourished by the letting in of the Water to drown it:* 1.202 Round about it is bestrewed with Gardens of the English; where, besides Gourds of all sorts for Stews and Pottage, Herbs for Sallad, and some few Flowers, as Jas∣samin, for beauty and delight; flourish pleasant Tops of Plantains, Cocoes, Guiavas, a kind of Pear, Jawks, a Coat of Armour over it like an Hedg-hog's, guards its weighty Fruit, Oval without for the length of a Span, within in fashion like Squils parted, Mangos, the delight of India, a Plum, Pomegranets, Bonanoes, which are a sort of Plantain, though less, yet much more grateful, Beetle; which last must not be slipt by in silence: It rises out of the Ground to twelve or fourteen Feet heighth, the Body of it green and slender, jointed like a Cane, the Boughs flaggy and spreading, under whose Arms it brings forth from its pregnant Womb (which bursts when her Month is come) a Cluster of Green Nuts, like Wallnuts in Green Shells, but different in the Fruit; which is hard when dried, and looks like a Nutmeg.

The Natives chew it with Chinam (Lime of calcined Oyster-Shells) and Arach,* 1.203 a Convolvulus with a Leaf like the largest Ivy, for to preserve their Teeth, and correct an unsavoury Breath: If swallowed, it inebriates as much as Tobacco. Thus mixed, it is the only Indian Entertainment, called Pawn.

These Plants set in a Row, make a Grove that might delude the Fanatick Multitude into an Opinion of their being sacred; and were not the Mouth of that Grand Impostor Hermetically sealed up, where Christianity is spread, these would still continue, as it is my Fancy they were of old, and may still be the Laboratories of his Fal∣lacious Oracles: For they masquing the face of Day, beget a so∣lemn reverence, and melancholy habit in them that resort to them; by representing the more inticing Place of Zeal, a Cathedral, with all its Pillars and Pillasters, Walks and Choirs; and so contrived, that whatever way you turn, you have an even Prospect.

But not to run too far out of Maderas before I give you an Ac∣count of the People;* 1.204 know they are of the same Nation with Metch∣lapatan, have the same unbelieving Faith, and under the same Bon∣dage with the Moors, were not that alleviated by the Power of the English, who command as far as their Guns reach: To them there∣fore they pay Toll, even of Cow-dung (which is their chiefest Fire∣ing) a Prerogative the Dutch could never obtain in this Kingdom, and by this means acquire great Estates without fear of being mo∣lested. Their only Merchants being Gentues, forty Moors having

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〈1 page duplicate〉〈1 page duplicate〉

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[illustration]

a. The Areca or Betele nul. b, the first sproul∣ing of it. c, the same grown bigger forming at length the tree, dd, whose under branches fallen leave the joynts bare, whilst young ones still s••••rout at the op e e; each branch hath a sheath, f. incompassing a joynl of ye brunk. g. is a purse or husk containing the branches os flowers, which fallen leave young nutts, h h, w.•h increase as, i i, and ripen to y form of k, whose tomen∣tose husk taken off▪ leaves the Areca nut, a, covered with a thin▪ shell. l l, shews the nut cut asunder.

m m, the Bamboos as groiving together n n, part of one drown larger. o o, One joynt yet much larger to shew the leaf p, and how the branches grow out of ye joynt.

q q, a branch of the Mango tree. shewing the leaf r r. the flower s s. the fruit t t, and the inside of it, u u, when slit.

z▪ the marking nutt yielding, black oyle.

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Page 41

hardly Cohabitation with them, though of the Natives 30000 are employed in this their Monopoly.

The Country is Sandy,* 1.205 yet plentiful in Provisions; in all Places Tops of Trees, among one of which, on the top of a wi∣thered Stump sate perching a Chamelion,* 1.206 Graece 〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉〈 in non-Latin alphabet 〉, clasping with its Claws its rotten Station, filling himself with his Aerial Food, ex tali satietate facile est parare famem; a Banquet which most other Creatures else arise an hungred from: But to be confirmed in the truth of what we have only by Tradition, I caused a Black who had a Bow there, to fell him with an Earthen Pellet, which when he had, after a small time he revived, and making a Collar of Straw for his Neck, he carried him to my Lodgings, where I dieted him a Month on the same Provant. That he changes his Colours at a con∣stant time of the Day, is not to be contradicted; but whether he live by the Air alone, I will not stand to it, unless there were a Dearth of Flies in the Countrey; though for my part I never did see him eat any. In Shape he comes nearest a Newt; with his Lungs his Body does agitate its self up to its Neck; he crawls on all Four, and has a Tail longer than his Body, which all together was no more than half a Foot; he has Teeth, and those sharp, which makes me think him an Ant beel-ubian.

Nine Days spent here,* 1.207 our Ships set sail again for Mechlapatan, leaving us behind them.

In this Interim we have leisure to say something, if not a plenary Panegyrick,

Of the French Transactions in the East-Indies.

Of late Years,* 1.208 that stirring King Lewis the XIVth (who was well instructed first by Mazarine, and since having been no bad Proficient under so expert a Master) has made himself to be taken notice of in Europe by his Conquests and Attempts upon Flanders and the Low Countries by Land; and has also by his Foreign Expeditions, acquested the World's admiration, by his speedy Growth in Maritime Power.

Insomuch that at his Infant Entrance upon the Watry Stage he was so audacious to join with the Belgians ag••••nst his Royal Patron of Britain; having his Ends of those he pretended to succour, his wary Policy taught him another Lesson, that caused him to mediate a Triple Alliance.

About which time enjoying full Coffers,* 1.209 he ruminated on reat Designs, as the raising an Army against Spain; to the same intent it was necessary for him to think of the continuing a Supply of Money: He therefore (omitting other ways of enriching his Ex∣chequer) put in a Stock with his Merchant-Adventurers, fitting out a Fleet of Twenty Sail of lusty Ships, to settle a Trade in India, committing them to the Charge and Conduct of a Viceroy; who coming safe about the Cape, touched at St. Lawrence, wher they did but little besides burying their Viceroy, and dispatching four Ships into Europe.

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In the stead of the Viceroy deceased, the now reigning succeeded.

From thence they sailed to Surat, where the Great Mogul endowed them with Immunities of Traffick.* 1.210

In the mean while a second War betwixt England and Holland was fomented,* 1.211 in the which the French threw off the protecting the Dutch, and sided with his Majesty of England. When neglecting his newly hatch'd Factory at Surat (whether out of its not an∣swering his expectations, or his earnestness in prosecuting the Hol∣landers by Sea as well as by Land, may be known by those that are more intelligent in his Affairs at Home), sense of Honour, obliged his Fleet in the East-Indies to New Adventures; and want of Money, the Merchants at Surat to Trade upon the Credit of the French King.

With fourteen Sail of Ships they roved on the Coasts of Malabar,* 1.212 and at last came to the Island Ceilon, setting upon the Dutch at Trin∣comalai, and forced it; but being destitute of Provisions forsook it, after the loss of abundance of their Men, and four of their Ships.

From whence they passed along the Coast of Coromandel,* 1.213 and with Ten Sail came before St. Thomas, demanding Victuals of the Moors; but they denying, they brought their Ships to bear upon the Fort, and landing some mall Pieces they stormed it, driving the Moors to the search of new Dwellings.

After they had taken it,* 1.214 they broke up their weather-beaten Vessels, and brought ashore their Ordnance, keeping their Trenches within, and mounting it with the Sea without; they still maintain it maugre all the great Armies the King of Gulconda has sent against it.

Till now the 18th Month of its Siege,* 1.215 and the fourth year of their leaving France, the Dutch of Batavia, in revenge of the Inroads the French have made on their Countrey at home, undertaking to wa∣lay them, that no Sustenance might be brought to them by Sea, came against it with 20 Sail, 15 Men of War, great Ships, some of 72 Brass Guns apiece, well mann'd.

For all that,* 1.216 the Viceroy, who had then been gone out with four Sail, but returning alone, got betwixt them and the Fort with his single Ship in the Night: The Device this; He left his Light upon a Catamaran, so that they thought him at an Anchor without them, when the next Morn he play'd upon them from under the Fort: This Exploit, and the bruit of our Approach, made them withdraw to the Southward for ••••esh Recruits of Men and Ammunition.

Which gave the French encouragement to sally out upon the Moors (they before being beaten from their Works near the City,* 1.217 had de∣camped Seven Miles off St. Thomas), and with an handfull of Men pillaed and set fire to their Tents, foraging the Countrey round about, returning loaden with Spoils.

Three days after our Ships departed,* 1.218 the Batavians came again, and cast Anchor over-against St. Thomas with their Flags flying; in the Afternoon they received some Shot from the French Fort and the Ships that lay in the Road: The next day all but five weighed, who tarried not many days before they followed the rest to Policat, a Strong hold of theirs, but 50 Miles North of us: Where we leave them to the landing 700 Men, to join with the Moors by Land, and their Ships to wait upon ours, upon their repair for Fort St. George: And at a distance (because too near an Intrusion would but exaspe∣rate

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the enraged Moors to enhanse the Price of our Curiosity) we will take a Survey

Of St. Thomas.

IT is a City that formerly for Riches,* 1.219 Pride, and Luxury, was se∣cond to none in India; but since, by the mutability of Fortune, it has abated much of its adored Excellencies.

The Sea on one side greets its Marble Walls, on the other a Chain of Hills intercepts the Violence of the inflaming Heat; one of which, called St. Thomas his Mount, is famous for his Sepulture, (in Honour of whom a Chappel is dedicated, the Head Priest of which was once the Metropolitan Bishop of India), and for a Tree called Arbor Tristis, which withers in the Day, and blossoms in the Night.

About this Mount live a Cast of People,* 1.220 one of whose Legs are as big as an Elephant's; which gives occasion for the divulging it to be a Judgment on them, as the Generation of the Assassins and Mur∣therers of the Blessed Apostle St. Thomas, one of whom I saw at Fort St. George.

Within the Walls seven Churches answer to as many Gates; the Rubbish of whose stupendious Heaps do justify the truth of what is predicated in relation to its pristine State.

The Builders of it were the Portugals.

The Confounders the Moors, who surprized them wallowing in their Wealth and Wantonness.

The present Competitors are the French, who are very unlikely to keep it (not for want of Valour, but for that few and unprovided, are not able long to resist multitudes) the Moors, and thirdly, the Hollanders, whose Interests are to destroy the French in India; Which the French foreseeing, had wisely solicited a Truce with Gulconda, and had hopes of that King's complying, till the Arrival of the Dutch, when they could not be heard. For considering a Kindness extorted not so obliging as that freely offered, and his Honour at∣tainted by their Swords being still in their hands, he closed with the Hatred of the Hollanders, for their final Extirpation.

Before which be accomplished, he may chance to find it an hard Task, especially had the French and hopes of Succours: For now they are 600 strong in the Fort and Ships, all stout Fellows, every Soldier fit to be a Commander. Their greatest scarcity will be of Food, with which had not the English privately befriended them, they could not have subsisted hitherto. Though the English, should they have War with France, would find them to be an Annoyance to their Trade: So that were the City again in the hands of the Moors, or even with the Ground, it were better for us.

Here it may be queried,* 1.221 Why Gulconda being a Potent Prince, should permit Garisons to be in the hands of Aliens? To this may be answered, That this of St. Thomas was founded when the Indians were naked and unarm'd. But this satisfies not the Question, since that the Moors having conquered it, they again offered it the Portu∣gals, who slighted the Propositions, unless they would restore them their Guns which they carried away with them. The true reason then is this, That Gulconda, as all the Indian Princes are, is weak at

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Sea; therefore it is a Maxim among them to commit their Strong∣holds on the Sea-Coasts to those they can call their Friends, for not only preventing Invasions at the Charge and Courage of Foreigners; but they (not being Absolute, but subject to the Authority of the Great Mogul) upon any Defeat, have these Places as sure Asylums of Retreat.

Amidst these Scenes of Affairs, what next offers to our View, is odd in it self, To find an Aptness in these People to improve all Gain∣ful Arts, and not to have advanced one footstep from the false Ru∣diments either of Religion or Customs of the Old World; for they do in my mind more than imitate, pertinaciously holding their Anti∣quities of Pan, Ceres, and Flora; as may appear by this and other following Farces.

Towards the latter end of August,* 1.222 when their Corn was in the Blade, and they were expecting a plentiful Crop, the Gentues of Ma∣deras held a Feast in Memory of some of their Saints of the Devil's canonizing.

Their Ceremonies were usher'd in with Tumult; in the middle of them were carried their Gods in State, garnished with the Riches of the Orient; they were cut in horrid Shapes; the reason of which, Divina assimulatio est causa diversitatis in rebus; though I should al∣low the diversity of Creatures in all Orders of the World, hath no other aim but to represent the Divinity, by whatsoever Image, yet I cannot imagine such Deformities could ever be invented for that end. Before them went the Brachmins, making a Noise with their loud Musick; after them their dancing Wenches (who always Morning and Evening tumble afore their Gods, which with some Mimical Gesture is all their Dancing) with Ephods of Silk and Gold upon their Breasts: With these in a Ring hand in hand, were the dancing Boys, all naked but a Clout about their Privities, like the Bacchanalian Youths that used to revel it with Flora's Strum∣pets through the Streets of Rome.

Thus went they in Procession, till they came to a Pageant, where∣on was pictured heir Gods; from whence, over a cross Piece of Timber, hung a Cocoa Nut, which the Hinds in Yellow Caps, and Clouts about their Wastes, striving to hit with a great Club, are washed by a Shower of Water, by the Brachmins placed on purpose; after a long Trial of their Patience, they suffer one to bear it away in Triumph.

All the time of their Sport, Beetle and Cocoa-Nuts are scattered among the People, for which they scramble as earnestly as if they were Medals at Coronations.

On a Pageant over-against the Pagod they had a Set of Dancers handed like Puppits, to the amusing of the Mobile.

Then setting open the Gates of the Pagod, they received all the unsanctified Crew, and shut them in; where how they conclude their Rites, is not to be divulged, Ignorance with them being the Mother of Devotion.

At Triblitore,* 1.223 four Miles North of Maderas, is a Pagod transcend∣ing both in respect of Building and Antiquity; there being Chara∣cters, the Expounders of the Gentu Language or Holy Writ under∣stand not: To this Mother-Pagod, at certain Seasons of the Year,

Page 45

long Pilgrimages are set on foot, at what time there is an innume∣rable Concourse, whereat some of the Visitants count it meritorious to be trod to death under a weighty Chariot of Iron made for the carriage of their Deities; and with themselves lay their Wives and Children to undergo the same Self-martyrdom.

In one of their open Pagods or Chappels, stands a Venerable Sir at the upper end, with the Attendants of Lamps and Bats, to whom they pay a world of Worship: Who this should be, unless that Pe∣riomel, from whose Head the Brachmins, Pallas-like fable their ori∣gination, I am yet to seek.

In the way hither are store of Antilopes,* 1.224 not to be taken but by a Decoy made of Green Boughs, wherein a Man hides himself, and walking with this Bush upon his Back, gains so near on them, while grazing or browzing rather on Shrubs or Bushes, as to hit one with an Arrow, when it may be run down with Dogs, the rest of the Herd shunning it: They are of a delicater shape and make than a Deer, their Horns not jagged, but turned as an Unicorn's; nor spread into Branches, but straight, and long, and tapering, rooted on the Os frontis, springing up on both sides.

At the end of August one of the Portugal Junks,* 1.225 we found in the Road, set Sail for Achein; where is Gold, and the Island thought by some to be Solomon's Ophir; and the Queen thereof, by whom it is constantly governed, confidently reported to be the Queen of the South, Achein being on the Island Sumatra in the South Seas.

The first of September only Seven of our Ten Ships returned from Mechlapatan,* 1.226 with their wounded Men and torn Hulks, who had met the Hollanders, and tried their Force; two days after they were dispatched from Mechlapatan, in Pettipolee Bay, where as soon as Day began to peep, a Thicket of Twenty Sail of our Enemies were discovered stemming the flowing Tide at an Anchor. Our Fleet might have passed them without giving Battel; but that the un∣daunted Britains scorned to fly, chusing rather to lye a Battery for them, than cowardly to flinch: Wherefore they braced their Sails to the Masts, and being to Leeward, stayed for the Wind which favoured the Hollanders; who coming up with our Fleet, made as if they would have gone by them; but were intercepted by the headmost of ours: Which perceived by the forwardest of theirs, they sent their Shallops aboard their Admiral for Orders, for vis consilii expers mole ruit suâ, Strength void of Counsel sinks with its proper weight; which was but too truly the fault of our Commanders, over-confident of their own Conduct, and lightly regarding the Authority of their Ge∣neral.

When they came back again,* 1.227 they brought their Fleet up in a Body, and after the Signal given, it thundred and hailed Bullets till Night.

The first that felt the warmth of the Showres, was the Bombaim; who after an hours hot dispute almost board and board with one of their biggest Ships, bore off hardly able to keep above water, and never came in again, having received 80 Shot in her Hull, and some between Wind and Water, so that in the Hold there was four Feet and an half Water; besides innumerable in her Rigging, Masts and Sails, from those that pelted at a distance.

Page 46

The next Ship that behaved her self stoutly, was the Admiral's; who lost 34 of her Men by the scurvy Accidents of Powder 17 of them were slain outright.

But the Three fatal Ships were the Antilope,* 1.228 Captain Golsbery; the Sampson, Captain Ernnig, Reer-Admiral; and the President, Vice-Admiral Captain Hide, whose rigid Fortune saved the drooping Ho∣nour of the English, which is not less conspicuous in Adversity than in Prosperity. For having sustained the Bunt of the day, they left not off when they were penned in by the Enemy, and deserted by their Friends: For by Five in the Afternoon the London bore away to stop her Leaks, the rest were glad to follow; and left them to maintain so unequal a Fight. The Vice-Admiral was seen to blow up his Decks several times, distributing the Hollanders as Doles to the Fishes, and left not off till Night parted the Fray; so that what became of them our Ships could give us no account.

Six days since this,* 1.229 a Thousand Men under Dutch Colours, with a dozen Carriages with great Brass Pieces, marched by out of shot of our Leaguers, and fixed their Standard with the Moors in sight of St. Thomas.

The next day was sent from Mechlapatan hither, the Copy of a Letter from Captain Hide, which assured us of his being alive, but wounded, his Ship as it is, at the disposal of the Dutch; as also Cap∣tain Ernnig's, though he was killed first: That Captain Golsbery sunk his, rather than it should go to Batavia; that he, and what Men could shift for themseves, were safe.

It may be wondred why the French did not assist us, they being as much at odds with the Dutch as we; the reality is, they offered their Devoirs, but we must equip their Ships; for which our Com∣manders pretended lack of Orders as well as Money and Materials: Though the plain truth was, they despised kindness, thinking it be∣neath them to be beholden to them for their help.

The Factories of the Hollanders on this Coast,* 1.230 are Ceilon, Jaffna∣patan, Sandraslapatan, Negapatan, Policat, Mechlapatan.

The Danes have a few, the French less.

In the South Sea, under the Agent of Bantam, the English have Factors at Pegu, Siam, Jambee: The Dutch have Batavia, and the Moluccos, from whence Nutmegs, worth more alone than all we have in India; they being as powerful for Men, Riches and Shipping in Batavia, as in Europe; which is grounded on a different Principle from our East India Company, who are for the present Profit, not future Emolument.

These,* 1.231 as they gain ground, secure it by vast Expences, raising Forts, and maintaining Souldiers: Ours are for raising Auctions, and retrenching Charges; bidding the next Age grow rich as they have done, but not affording them the means.

Our Ships that were left,* 1.232 were now sooner repaired, than fraited with their Salt Peter and Fine Cloth; and had leave to make the best of their way for the Malabar Coast in less than a Fortnight's time, when it was determined to keep off to Sea, as well to escape the Hol∣landers, as the Violence of the Mossoons; who being upon the point of shifting their Quarters, are most dangerous near the Shore.

Page 47

These Mossoons or Monsoons, are the Winds and Rains customary to all India, varying here only in respect of the Mountains.

Therefore on these Coasts the South Winds blow for Eight Months,* 1.233 four of which are May, June, July, August. Then the Sun is so strong, that it would be uninhabitable, did not there fall at Night those Vapours which the Sun draws up in the Day; and by decli∣ning of his exorbitant Heat, leaves them to be condensated at Night; when the Air is more gross, and the Earth is cooled either by thick Mists, or a more palpable Moisture (which you may call pouring Showres) and thereby made fertile, which otherwise would be in∣supportable and barren.

That which makes this the more plausible is, That the Asiatick India intra Gangem, is a Pene Insula, and the Seas lie near round the Land.

But about the Sun's retiring to his Southern Tropick,* 1.234 the Winds take their Northern Course, the Rains do cease, and the Sea alters its Current to the South, when by the innate coldness of these Blasts the Clime becomes more habitable, unless where the Sands cause a reflection of heat, as at Mechlapatan; where they keep close all Day for three or four Months together, (though then the North Wind begins to abate its impetuosity, and the South Winds prevail) repel∣ling the Heat by a course wet Cloath, continually hanging before their Chamber-windows; which not only resists the Ambient Air, but by the afflux of Nitrous Particles from within, does cast a Chil∣ness over the Room; without which, the Walls, that for that in∣tent are plastered, would be so hot, you could not abide your Hand on them; the same way they have of cooling their Liquors, by a wet Cloth wrapped about their Gurgulets and Jars, which are Ves∣sels made of a porous kind of Earth; the best of Maecha, reasonable good from Goa, which are carried with them in this nature where∣ever they travel.

Before we dismiss this Discourse,* 1.235 it may be noted, That the Rains on this Coast are more intermitting than on the Malabar Coast, so that they can loose hence their Ships for Persia, Maecha and Juddah, and to the South Seas in those Months they are Wind-bound on the other Coast: for having the Land-Breezes to carry them off to Sea, the Mossoons are more favourable.

Concerning the Regularities of these Winds, perhaps some others may give patter Guesses than my self, who am not conceited enough to dogmatize.

Among the many that be alledged,* 1.236 I am not fond of any, though this have won a little upon my Opinion; That the Sun may be as well the reason why these Winds should observe his Annual Circum∣rotation; as that the Ebbings and Flowings of the Sea, by the Moon's meer depression of Air, should be ascribed to her Monthly Revolutions.

And here one thing may be worthy our Curiosity, That after the Seasons of the Heats and Rains, the Rivers Indus and Ganges are said to swell their Banks, and thereby abundantly to encrease the Border∣ing Countries, where these Rains are less frequent: Whence, it may be, some insight may be had for the Overflows of Egypt, which has set so many Wits on the Tenterhooks, where it is reported it never

Page 48

rains: But in the Countreys near the supposed Sourse of Nile, it does to Excess.

But you who have greater Reading and Leisure to digest these Metaphysical Notions, will mightily oblige me to furnish me with your solider Arguments.

Among which I would intreat you to consider the Variety of the Loadstone in the common Chart: For what the incomparably Inge∣nuous Des Cartes has wrote on that Subject, acquiesces only in mo∣dest Hypotheticks, not any ways informing the Understanding to a clear Apprehension; but after he has brought it through the Maze of Probabilities, he parts with it at the same Predicament it entred.

Not to deviate any longer,* 1.237 we are now winding about the South-West part of Ceilon; where we have the Tail of the Elephant full in our mouths; a Constellation by the Portugals called Rabo del Ele∣phanto, known for the breaking up of the Munsoons, which is the last Flory this Season makes, generally concluding with September, which goes out with dismal Storms.

Yet so good is Providence,* 1.238 as to warn us here, when all is obscured, by Water-Snakes, of our too near approach to the Land; which are as sure Presages on the Indian Coasts, as the Cape-Birds are there.

Here the Mountains running East and West,* 1.239 the Winds are to the East of the South, and to the West of the North; else quadrating with those on Coromandel; only here in April and May the Winds are variable, and then they hasten to leave these Coasts for Persia, the Red-Sea, and South-Seas, or those make in that are to return hither; otherwise they run an hazard of losing their Voyage, when the South to the South-East Wind is fixed, which continues to the latter end of September, or beginning of October: Then from the North to the North-West sets in again; and this Course is observed mostly on all the Indian Shores, only some few days different in the beginning and ending, which happen to the South, and in Lands commonly earlier than to the North, and break up later when they are more severe, but the Intervals are milder; the middle Months clearing up in the day time; but from the first setting to the going out towards the North, the Sun hardly shews his Face, unless a Fortnight after the Full Moon in May, and a Fortnight before the Elephanto.

On the Coast of Surat from Gemini to Libra.* 1.240

This happens in the Sun's Ecliptick Road.

On the Coast of Coromandel from Taurus to Scorpio.

And thus much may be said in general; only the Land and Sea-Breezes in particular, on this Coast of Surat and Malabar, when the Rains are over, keep exactly Land-Breezes from Midnight to Mid∣day, and Sea-Breezes from the Noon of Day to the Noon of Night.

Page 49

Making Land, we beheld it all a Flame, they burning their Stubble for Soilage,* 1.241 the Forerunner of the ensuing Rain; notwithstanding a King fisher flew aboard us with the flattering Coaks's of Halcyon days; but like an unskilful Augur was deservedly reproached with the Ignorance of her own Destiny, to dye in Captivity; which fatal Necessity made her elect, rather than suffer with whole Flocks of little Birds blown from the Main, who not able to stem the boiste∣rousness of the Winds, were hurried thence to perish in the Sea.

And now we were begirt with Land: the Maldivae Islands lying South; Cape Comerin North and by West; the Malabar Islands West, (whose Inhabitants have no relation with those on the Coast); whence is brought great quantities of Ambergreece; Ceilon, &c.

The Land our Master took for a Malabar Island proved a mistake;* 1.242 for by a strong Current we were lock'd in between the Island Ceilon, and the North East side of the Cape, within that desperate Canal we before described. Our Error was first corrected by some Fisher∣men busy at their Nets,* 1.243 who brought aboard plenty of Fishes, all new to us, who never had seen such coloured ones, some gilded like Gold, others with Vermilion, varied by several Intermixtures.

Whilst we were lost in admiration, our Mates found themselves no less at a loss in their accounts, when they understood they were drove 30 Leagues to Leeward of the Cape, by the broken Portugueze spoken by these Men, and that we could not sail much farther than Tutticaree, a Portugal Town in time of Yore, where they had a Cita∣del, and two famous Churches; and before us, which was the Lure, a Ketch of the Dutch's (which we chased for hopes of Prize) was sailing to that Port, and presently after anchored: We were then in seven Fathom Water.

This is the place where they drag Pearl.

All along here the Top of Gates is seen above the Clouds,* 1.244 the Ground beneath it Fair, Low, and Sandy.

Tutticaree is now in the hands of the Dutch,* 1.245 running the same Risco with Columbo, over-against which it lies; we being now in the very Jaws of our Enemies, might have here concluded our Voyage, had their Fleet been nigh us.

The next day we were becalmed, and thereby carried into the midst of the Stream; and although in the Afternoon we had an humming Frisco, it ran with such Violence that we lost more than we gained: This Mistake cost us a Fortnights time before we could compass the Cape, besides Fears and Jealousies both of our falling into the Torrent, and our Enemies hands.

The Cape lanches into the Sea with Three Points, running into a Campaign several Miles together, till it grows big with Mountains, procreating their prodigious Race 400 Leagues, severing the Coast of Coromandel and Malabar, East and West; Latitude 8 deg. 50 min. North; Longit. 96 deg. Eost.

Page 50

[illustration]

Cape Comeri.

The Taprobanum of Pliny, over-against the Pr∣montorium Cellia∣cum.* 1.246

CHAP. VI.

Views the Malabar and Canatick Coasts up to Bombaim.

TO prevent the mischief of ingulphing again by the Current,* 1.247 we anchored a-nights; when a Pitchy Blackness was inter∣posed betwixt us and the Skies, and not a Star to be seen: The Plebs Squammosa beneath the Surface of the Salt Ocean, gathering their little Fry (which proved to be Pilchards), either by the Repercus∣sion of the Saline Bodies of the Waves, which is frequent, or by the more apt Position of their Glittering Scales, through that Me∣dium to refract the hovering Light benighted in the Atmosphere, dispersed a Lustre as bright as Day; insomuch that a small Print might easily be read by it.

Taking advantage of the Land-Breezes and the Tides,* 1.248 we scud∣ded along the Shore, which was Woody, and well stock'd with Trees, the Ground even for many Leagues together; the Moun∣tains peeping up behind a great way in the Country.

Being against Carnopoly, a Portugal Friar boarded us: It is some Miles to the North of Caulam, formerly inhabited by the Portugals, and from them taken by the Dutch, who have built a Castle there, and Lord it over the Natives, so that at Carnopoly the Dutch exact Custom for all the Goods they carry off to Sea, though there live but one Boy and two Dutchmen. The Portugals have only Five Per∣sons here. The English had also a Factory for Pepper, but they are gone both from hence and Pureat, 20 Miles more North; the Cause

Page [unnumbered]

[illustration]

Page [unnumbered]

Page 51

we are unacquainted with,* 1.249 but believe the Dutch will leave nothing unattempted, to engross the Spice-Trade; for none has escaped them but this of Pepper; Cinamon, Cloves, Mace, and Nutmegs, being wholly theirs; and by the Measures they follow, this also in time must fall into their hands.

Nor indeed are Pretensions wanting,* 1.250 they holding here their Right by Conquest (a fairer Claim than undermining), they boast∣ing they have in a manner subdued the Natives; which is no hard matter, since this Region of Malabar (in which general Name I reckon as far South as the Land's End, and Phalapatan North) is divided into several Petit Signiories, or Arch-Rebels against the Za∣merhin of Calicut, only paying some slight Acknowledgments of his Supremacy, as their Chief Bishop, and joining with him against the Great Mogul; else striving to supplant each other; having a Govern∣ment most like Aristocracy of any in the East, each State having a Representative, and he to act according to the Votes of the Nairos Gentry in full Assembly; which as they interfere with one anothers Interests, the weakest have always been ready to call in help: For which reason the Dutch were first permitted to rear Castles to secure the Sea-Coasts; which they have made so good use of, as to bring them under their Yoke; the Great Mogul not discouraging them in the least.

Keeping on our Course we left Cochin to the Southward,* 1.251 once a fa∣mous Mart of the Portugals, since wrested from them, and made impregnable by the Dutch.

At this place we bad adieu to all our bad Weather,* 1.252 though not to the Practices of the Dutch, who had prevented the English at Panana also; so that here neither being any Pepper, we had nothing else to do but hoist Sails for Tanore, where we touched the first of No∣vember, the Natives having hardly shaken off the fear of the Dutch: For a Boat with Sails of Mats (all their small Boats making them their Sails) came to take a Survey of us, and made towards us un∣certainly; when after several Fetches to and again, at last they were within Call of us: We saw two Sumbrero's (a Mark for some of Quality) held up in the Boat-stern, and a Man stand up and wave his Hat, which made our Master stretch his Throat to know what he was; whereupon down went the Sumbrero's held up in the Boat∣stern, the Boat cleverly tacked, and the Men tugged stoutly at their Paddles, and we as roundly sent seven Shot after them, and the Lon∣don as many; but they were more scar'd than hurt; for after we had mann'd three Boats after them, they return'd with their Labour for their Pains, the Boat getting safe from them. At Night another Boat with an Englishman came to ask what Ships we were: Whom when we answered English, he boarded us, and told us our unadvised Salutes were level'd at an English Merchant sent off by the Chief, who not∣withstanding he presented two Pistols at the Breasts of the Boatmen, could not beat out of them the suspicion they were possessed with of our being Dutch: Which shews how strangely they are awed by them; and the rather, they being solicitous Blazers of their own good For∣tune upon us, and our Defeat by them; which they had taken care to publish, to bring us into Disrepute, which commonly waits on Ill Success, before we could come to tell our own Tale.

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At our arriving ashore the Natives flocked about us, and gazed upon us as if they would have stared us through;* 1.253 amidst a Lane of whom we were ushered by a few Portugals to their Chappel, at the Door whereof stood the Padre to receive us, and through it to con∣duct us to his House.

From whence I went to observe the Town,* 1.254 which is miserably poor and straggling, though in the heart of it a double Row of Cot∣tages opened their Shops of Wares, which consisted of Pepper, Tur∣merick, Ginger, Cassia Lignum, the lesser Cardamoms, Bunco, i. e. Tobacco, and Hubble-bubble Canes, the Product of this Coast, as are also Beetle-Nuts the greatest Gain from this place to Surat, to be reaped by them.

Amongst whom were Shroffs, or Money-changers. On one side in a square place was their Fish-Market, through which we came into another Lane, at whose end there was a Mosque.

Their Houses are little Hovels or Hogsties,* 1.255 the best of them scarce worthy the Name of a Booth. The English House is in the fashion with the rest, covered all over with Cajans, and seated (which they mightily affect) under Trees. The People are Tawny, not Black. Their Language Malabar. Here is a Specimen of their Character.

[illustration]

They are subject to the Zamerhin of Calicut,* 1.256 who sent hither his Delegate to welcome us, and invite us to a Continuance of Trade: He gave our Fleet seven Guns, which were planted near the Water∣side; which Compliment was returned by the Fleet.

The Nation is distinguished by Three Ranks.* 1.257 The Priests make the first; they come abroad in several distracted Postures, sometimes all naked, plaister'd over with Ashes, their Hair plaited like an Horse's Tail; at other times appearing less barbarous, being cover∣ed, but as Stoical in their Behaviour.

The second Form is that of the Nobiles,* 1.258 who are all bred Soldiers, and therefore called Nairo's; the one part of them wearing naked Swords rampant in one hand, and a Target made of a Buffola's Hide lacquer'd and curiously painted in the other, with which they defend themselves as assuredly as with an Iron Shield; the rest of them walk with a spiked Lance barbed, as long as a Javelin, and poised at the But end with Lead; at darting of which they are very expert.

The last and lowest are the Artizans and Tillers of the Earth,* 1.259 of which here are no great store, being ever negligent in that they reap the least Benefit by; wherefore their Vassals are commonly employed in that service, they being Drudges both to their Masters and Prince, who here as in all India is sole Proprietor of Lands; allowing the Oc∣cupiers no more than a bare Subsistence, and not that when a bad Year fills not the Publick Granaries; drubbing the poor Hinds till their

Page 53

Bones rattle in their Skins, they being forced often to sell their Chil∣dren for Rice, which is the best here on this Coast of any place else in the whole World.

In Habit they excel not one another;* 1.260 the Peer as well as Peasant, wrapping only a Lunga about his Middle, and thence reaching to his Knees. Only their Men of Honour that have deserved it from the Zamerhin, have their Wrists rounded with thick golden Bracelets, illustrated with Precious Stones.

Their Women are nearer white than the Men,* 1.261 of an Olive or Sallow Colour, cloathed as they on Coromandel, stretching their Ears with Gold and Gems.

In Manners the Natives are slovenly enough,* 1.262 if not brutish. In Religion most Heathens, though the Infection of Mahometism is con∣tagious among them.

They have Hospitals here for Cows;* 1.263 and are charitable to Dogs, providing for them abroad, but not suffer them to defile them with∣in Doors; being more merciful to Beasts than Men.

Of Christians here are not an inconsiderable number.* 1.264 Here are also those Elephant-Legged St. Thomeans, which the unbiassed Enquirers will tell you chances to them two ways: By the Venom of a cer∣tain Snake, for which the Jangies or Pilgrims furnish them with a Factitious Stone (which we call a Snake-stone) and is a Counter∣poyson to all deadly Bites; if it stick, it attracts the Poyson; and put it into Milk, it recovers it self again, leaving its virulency there∣in, discovered by its Greenness: As also by drinking bad Water (to which, as we to the Air, they attribute all Diseases) when they tra∣vel over the Sands, and then lying down when they are hot, till the Earth at Night is in a cold sweat, which penetrating the rarified Cuticle, fixes the Humours by intercepting their free concourse on that side, not to be remedied by any Panacea of their Esculapian Sectators; it is not much unlike the Elephantiasis Arabum.

Their Coins are of Gold;* 1.265 a St. Thomas, 10 s. a Fanam, 7 and ½ of which go to a Dollar, or Petacha: These are Gold. Of Copper, a Buserook, 20 of which make a Fanam.

The Country is inticing and beautiful,* 1.266 Woody in the Plain, up the Country Mountainous, where grows the Pepper: It is a Berry that is brought forth by a Bind-weed, wedded to a Tree, which it hugs as affectionately as the Ivy does the Oak; it is first Green, when dried it is black, and husked white: Long Pepper grows on a Shrub leaved and stalked like our Privet.

Their other Trees and Fruits are common with the rest of India; Rice is their chief Grain.

Beasts and Fowls, Tame and Wild, are not scarce.

The first Blackamore Pullen I ever saw,* 1.267 were here; the outward Skin was a perfect Negro, the Bones also being as black as Jet; un∣der the Skin nothing could be whiter than the Flesh, more tender, or more grateful.

After two Nights cold and disquieted Lodging on the Ground* 1.268 (though under covert of the English House) and an Hellish Consort of Jackalls (a kind of Fox), with the Natives singing and roaring all Night long; being drunk with Toddy, the Wine of the Cocoe: I was desirous to go Aboard; when, it being Evening, the Sea Breezes

Page 54

began to drive the Waves with a great surf upon the Shore; insomuch that our Men could not carry me to the Pinnace, riding at the Grap∣ling without; wherefore hiring a Canoo, the Blacks played the Cha∣ron, and I narrowly escaped with my Life (being overset); finding by sad Experience, that Cold Nights affect even in these Hot Coun∣tries, as sensibly as under the Frozen Bear: Leaving off to wonder at the Natives quivering and quaking after Sun-set, wrapping them∣selves in a Comby, or Hair-cloath, and the better sort with Quilts, and making good Fires: For being well drenched in the Sea, the Wind blowing very high, I was almost nummed to death before I could reach the Ship. The reason of this Coolness anights is because the Rains have lately cooled the Air as well as Earth, which also may be ascribed to the Sun's Ecliptick distance, as well as the length of the Nights, which are but little longer than the Days; but chiefly to the soaking Mists bedewing the Earth after Sun-set.

Tanore lies in 10 deg.* 1.269 30 min. North Latitude.

Having taken in what Bales of Pepper this Place afforded; we weighed by Two in the Morning, and by Four in the Afternoon An∣chored against that Anciently Traded Port of Calicut, in the Lati∣tude of 11 deg. 30 min. North.

Of Calicut.

A Shore the first House facing us was the English;* 1.270 near it were placed six small Pieces, resounding our Salutes at our Entry.

On the back-side lay two great Guns,* 1.271 dismounted, of Brass, all that is extant of the Portugal Town and Castle (which ran out as far into the Sea as our Ships now ride, near four Miles) overflowed by Water; nothing remaining of it but only what is taken upon Chro∣nicle.

What is also left of Calicut,* 1.272 is not equivalent to what might be expected from the gleaning of so many Ages of Traffick; unless, as Antiquaries esteem, most of those things are Moth-eaten by Time, which Vermin has been plaguy pernicious here: For the City that stood upon Stilts, is tripped up, for down it is gone; and the Tem∣ple, whose Marble Pillars durst compare with those of Agrippa's in the Roman Pantheon, is Topsy-turvy. And if any one that comes after me, make you believe it to be not above Four Miles in length, and in that not an House befitting a Christian; here and there a Mosque, and Burying Places with Tanks: A good long Bazzar with Trash, and Ripe Fruit; another with Opium, and Spices of this Coast; Changers and Jewellers, unfenced and rude in Building; he tells you but the truth. Indeed it is pleasantly situated under Trees, and it is the Holy See of their Zamerhin or Pope.

The Citizens are urbane,* 1.273 being trained up to Commerce; but the Trade gone to Goa, along with the Portugals; who at their first ar∣rival into this Bay, found more Ships by 500 than we did, without either Chart or Compass, who most of them transported their Com∣modities to the Red Sea, along the Coasts; or to the Gulph of Per∣sia;

Page 55

and thence they were carried over-land to Scanderoon, Aleppo, or Constantinople, unto the Hands of the Venetians, from whom we were served with them; and by that means they gained for them∣selves the Power and Greatness of their State.

Since by the Prosperous Attempts of the Portugals about the Cape of good Hope, we are taught to bring them home at a cheaper Rate, whereby these Indian Hugsters begin to decline.

For a long time the Portugals kept in with Calicut, and drew a great resort hither, as well over-land as by Sea; till the Zamerhin, not brooking them as Inmates, ruined their Fortifications, (which oc∣casioned their remove to Goa), and with them the Fame of Calicut.

Their Coin admits no Copper; Silver Tarrs,* 1.274 28 of which make a Fanam, passing instead thereof.

They have yet a correspondence with Persia, as may appear by their Absees, a Sixteen penny piece of Silver, current among them.

Their Trade in common with India is mostly for Beetle Nuts, and Cocoe Nuts, for Oyl, which latter they dunging with (Bubsho) Fish, the Land-Breezes brought a poysonous Smell on board Ship caused by their putrifying.

Breaking ground hence,* 1.275 the Mountains were grown to that height, that they seemed to be the Partition Walls betwixt this World and the Sphere of Fire; for the Sun was a long while after he had gilded the Canopy of Heaven, before he could drive his Steeds over those Olympick Towers with his blazing Orb: Which I take notice of, because the Sun and Stars ascend the Horizon to the Meridian directly in the Torrid Zone, and so descend; whereby there is little or no Twilight, as there is nearer the Poles, where they as∣cend and descend more obliquely.

At Mangalore the Dutch have a Fort, and 6 Miles to the North the French have a Flag flying; within a League off which a Grey Rock extols its hoary Head eight Fathom above Water, navigable on all sides,* 1.276 justly called by us Sacrifice Island; in remembrance of a bloody Butchery on some English by the Pirate Malabars, who are the worst Pickeroons on this Coast, going in Fleets, and are set out by the Great Men ashore; the Chief of whom lives at Durma∣patan, where we took in fuller and larger Pepper than any yet: They are stronger here in Shipping than the rest; they housing se∣veral Junks of Burthen, drawn up on the Banks of the River, not yet lanched since the Rains; which they always do when they set in, keeping them dry all the Winter with the Thatch of Cajans.

Parting from hence, the Mountains above, and the Valleys below were covered with Woods, only now and then Hills of Red Earth were interspersed (which our Dawbers use for Painting) that held on their pace till we were up with Canamore, another Fortress of the Dutch: From whence they spake Defiance by spending three Shots unregarded by us.

From Durmapatam,* 1.277 five Leagues North, lies Phalapatan; where I took Boat, and sailed up the River with the Lascars, or Sea-men of the Country; of whom I shall say no more at present, than, that they are a shame to our Sailors, who can hardly ever work without horrid Oaths and hideous Cursing and Imprecations; and these Moor∣men,

Page 56

on the contrary, never set their Hands to do any Labour, but that they sing a Psalm, or Prayer, and conclude at every joint Ap∣plication to it, Allah, Allah, invoking on the Name of God.

On each side upon the Teaming Banks are homely Villages, a plain Dress becoming Art, the Servant, where her Mistress, Nature, is so coruscant, here being whole Armies of Trees surprisingly beautiful. Besides these Benefits for Delight, there flow no less for Profit; they improving the Commodiousness of the River (which is Sailable round to Durmapatan) by a Free Trade. Six Miles up stands Phala∣patan, of Building base; it is overgrown with the Weeds of Mahome∣tism, the Moors planting themselves here; whose King I was so lucky to see out of my Boat, my Lascars entreating me to give them leave to go ashore to provide Victuals in the Buzzar.

His Meen was Patriarchical,* 1.278 his Head gray, his Beard Snowed with Age, his Raiment white in the Eastern Mode. His Son and Heir, a Child, followed him; as he passed, the People payed him humbl Respect; he was without a Guard, it being needless where Subjects are Loyal-hearted.

The River was full of Aligators,* 1.279 or Crocodiles, which lay basking in the Sun in the Mud on the River's side, whom the Natives are fearless of; conceiting the Brachmines have power to lay a Spell up∣on them, that they do no harm. Which, whether true or false, 'tis certain they a seldom do harm in the Water, as the Tigres in the Woods, over whom they fancy their Priests have the same preva∣lency.

A Mile more up was Cutty-Cony,* 1.280 the fair Palace, as it signifies in Malabar; but though it do in their Language, it would not make the Interpretation good in English, it agreeing but in one particular, that is, the Site. It having the advantage of an Hill, has an easy Prospect over the Water,* 1.281 as broad here as our Thamesis; and over the Verdent Meadows, which spread themselves Westward, till Hills of Cardamoms do bound the sight, running from thence North by East, while they meet with Mount Sephir (all along unchristned Gate) these are the minor Cardamoms, and the best, if not the only in the World: On the East a gravelly Forest with tall benty Grass, offers, besides its taking Look, diversity of Game; as Hares, wild Boars, Tigres, and wild Elephants, which are dreaded by Travel∣lers, they striking all down before them, Trees as well as Animals: The like Terror is conceived by the crashing noise among the Woods made by the wild Bulls; for all which, 'tis the practice of the Wood∣men to dig deep Pits, and cover them with Sads, laid over with Boughs, to entrap them in their headstrong and unwary Course. Monkeys with white Ruffs, and black shagged Bodies, looking very gravely, are brought from hence.

On the South a Wood of Jamboes, Mangoes, Cocoes; on the North a Grove of Pepper.

The Place is now resigned to the English,* 1.282 though the Gentiles were unwilling to desert it, it being an Arch-Brachmine's Seat, where was a small Pagod standing in the middle of the Yard well endowed, till they had robbed their Gods of their Gold and Silver; and now they are said to be dumb and sullen because of the English. But without any prejudice to Truth, we may believe the Usurers Faith

Page 57

and theirs to be both under one Lock and Key; Quantum nummorum habet in arcâ, tantum habet & fidei.

It is walled about by the English with Mud,* 1.283 except the two round Points towards the Land, whose Foundations and Bastions are of Stone. They have Fourteen small Guns mounted; here are twenty two Soldiers, besides Factors: The Air so salubrious, that never any English are remembred to lay their Bones here. The Fort is a Tetra∣gone from Corner to Corner.

Without, besides the English, there are a select Company of Nai∣roes, who are stout, ready, and resolute for any Action: Their Wea∣pons are Bows and Arrows, with Falchions by their sides.

By these the Countrey is inhabited;* 1.284 among whom if a Man fall single, salvage Beasts are more compassionate; but if you have but a Boy with you of their Cast, you may travel secure enough.

Beyond the Outworks live a few Portugals Musters or Mistera∣does;* 1.285 among whom are Stews and Brothels; the Women of this Coast being the most professedly Lewd of any; being said to in∣struct the Men to be Patients, while they act the Masculine Part in their Lascivious Twines.

Sixteen Tarrs here make one Fanam;* 1.286 Nine Fanams one Piece of Eight; four Cash are the eighth part of one Rupee.

Outstretching the Malabar Coast,* 1.287 we sailed along by Batticalai on the Canatick Coasts; and the next Morning, between two Islands we saw sculking Six Malabar Proes waiting their Booty; but making use of their Oars as well as Sails, soon outstripped us.

The Day after we came to an Anchor at Onor,* 1.288 the Land Hilly and Barren, which I went to see; it is in 13 deg. 10 min. North. We passed to it through a narrow Bite, which expatiates into a wide Swallow, and then thrusts us up the River. On the North side a Bow and Arrow Castle overlooks it, while it runs peaceably to the Town. Where we landed, the Dutch had a House, and a new Junk lanched, with her Colours furl'd: One end of the Town stands in an hole; over a Rocky Hill stands the other part, upon which the Ca∣stle with its Stone Wall faces an Heath a great way, yet looking asquint on the Under-woods. It is built after the exact Rules of An∣cient Fortifications, with a Drawbridge, and a Mat round, now a dry Ditch, the Castle without Soldiers, falling to decay. It was built by the Portugals, seized by the Canareens by the help of the Dutch, between whom and the Portugals, the Town of poor Buildings is di∣vided: Many of the Natives have receiv'd the Christian Faith. Though those that continue in their Paganism are the most impiously Religious of any of the Indians, being too too conversant with the Devil.

The Nairoes have no footing here, nor have the Moors much.

They live in no diffidence of one another, nor Strangers of them, journeying among them without a Guide, in Broad Roads, not in By-Paths, as in the Nations properly called the Malabars: They have well-constituted Laws, and observe them obediently.

From hence we came to Mirja in the same Dominions.* 1.289 I went to view the Place; the Boat that carried me was Brigantine built.

At the Entry into the Harbour only a Rock withstands the Washes, but on the Shore huge craggy Mountains are drawn up for a second

Page 58

Onset, all of Black Stone, yet somewhat undermined by the beating of the Sea, where it works its self into a Syrtes; on the other side of which the Fragments of the Town are shelter'd. At my Land∣ing, one of their Princes was the first that welcomed me ashore, (who here as well as in Italy scorn not to be Merchants); he was seated under a shady Tree, on a Carpet spread upon the Sand, and his Retinue standing about him; he it seems was expecting the Pro∣tector of Canara (the Raja being in Minority), who came anon, with his Lords and Guards, armed with Swords and Gantlets, Partizans adorned with Bells and Feathers, as also were the Horses that carried his Luscarry or Army, with such Trappings as our finest Team-Horses in England wear.

He ventured off to Sea to see our Ships;* 1.290 he was rowed by a Gang of 36, in a great deal of Pomp; his Musick was loud, and with the Kettle-drums made a Noise not unlike that our Coopers make on their Hogsheads driving home their Hoops: He went aboard two or three Ships, who entertained him with their Guns and Chears of their Men, presenting him with Scarlet Cloath. He is a Gentile, as are his Subjects.

Our Lading here was Pepper,* 1.291 Salt-Petre, and Beetle-Nut for Surat.

In our way from Mirja we met with a Man of War Pink, commis∣sion'd from the President for the scowring these Seas, which had 22 Guns, and seventy odd Men, the Name, The Revenge.

Near Carwar is the Island Angediva, Fam'd for the Burial of some Hundreds of our Countreymen.

Carwar was the Chief Port of Visiapour on this Coast,* 1.292 but a Grand Traytor to that King Seva Gi, is now Master of it, and the adjacent Countrey as far as Guzerat; having well nigh forced our Factory, and done other Outrages on us, which would ask our Fleet a longer time to require Satisfaction, if they were able, than they could stay; unless they would lose their Passage round the Cape of Good Hope, and content themselves to winter at the Mauritius, which all Ships that outstay their time are forced to. For the Sun being almost at his Southern Solstice, at his return he leaves a sharp Winter (which we proved), and adverse Winds in those Seas, they lying without the Tropick, which spurs them on for expedition. What this Seva Gi is, and the reason of his Usurped Power, a longer Duration in the Countrey must declare, who is every where named with Terror, he carrying all before him like a mighty Torrent.

The Shore is Hilly, and indifferent Woody; near it Islets are scat∣tered to and again.

The People partly Moors,* 1.293 partly Gentues, under the King of Visia∣pour, who was, till this turbulent Seva Gi drove all into a Commo∣tion, a perfect Monarch, hardly paying the Mogul Tribute, when Duccan and Visiapour were united into one Kingdom.

Hence it is Hilly up to Guzerat; though Gates hold on where the Coasts of Guzerat begin, and outstretches them.

Fifteen Leagues to the Norward of Carwar lies Goa,* 1.294 the only place of consequence the Portugals retain of their first Discoveries.

The City lies up the River, out of our sight on Shipboard, though we could discern the River to be thwacked with small Craft; with∣out

Page 59

the Bar a great Carrack unrigg'd, and on both sides the River Magnificent Structures. The Soil Fat, Level, and fit for the Share many Miles together, the Hills keeping a wide distance from them.

About two days after we passed Goa,* 1.295 a Ship with a Portugal Flg at the Main To-Mast Head weathered our Admiral, and after se what we were, lay by for a Fleet of six more good Ships, one 〈◊〉〈◊〉 and half a dozen Proes, being their Northern Armado; they fitting out one for the South also; the one against the Arabs, the other against the Malabars.

The beginning of December the North West Wind blew bitter cold upon us,* 1.296 and would hardly give the Sun leave to be Master in his own home; though a Cloud in the day time, ever since the Rains cleared up, could hardly vapour betwixt him and the Earth.

At Nights we had hospitable Lights shewed us from the Shore,* 1.297 to mark out the Rocks, which lye very thick along to intrap the unwary Pilot.

In 17 deg.* 1.298 20 min. North, lies Rajapore, a French Factory now, formerly English.

Twenty Miles to the Northward,* 1.299 Choul, a Fortress of the Portu∣gals, lay fair in sight.

And having the Latitude of 18 deg. 40 min. North, Bombaim opened its self; the Tide being spent, we came to an Anchor with∣out the Bay, not having our Bearings right; and December the Eighth we paid our Homage to the Union-Flag flying on the Fort of Bombaim.

The BAY

Is indented a vast Circumference,* 1.300 in which it is able to contain 1000 of the best Ships in Europe, in safe Harbour from Wind and Weather. As we passed up the Bay, two of the Mogul's Men of War, each 300 Tun, with bloody Colours out, rode before Kerenjau. Under the Castle, besides innumerable little Vessels, as Hoys, Ketches, and the like, lay Three Men of War, with their Top Ar∣mour out, Waste-Cloath and Penants at every Yard-Arm; to wit, The Revenge, 22 Guns: The May-boon, taken from the Dutch, 220 Tuns: The Hunter, 14 Guns.

The Castle is seated towards the bottom of the Bay, command∣ing it every way from the Points and Flankiers.

At Evening the next day I was sent for on Shore, and received by the Honourable Gerald Aungier, Governor both for the King and Company, and President of all the East-Indies.

Thus after a plenary Anniversary, this Voyage was accomplished; and just that Day Twelvemmonth you left me Aboard Ship at Graves∣end, I set foot on Shore at Bombaim, where for this Shipping I re∣main.

Yours, J. F.

Notes

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